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Sewing Machin S Operations Manual
Sewing Machin S Operations Manual
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, SEWING OFF
Seam Type
DURATION: 15 SECS
Page | 68
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Sewing 6x 6 Sewing off the material.
Goal:15 Seconds Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #1
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with
Both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift.
Place material close to the apprentice.
Illustration:
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH
simultaneously.
Move fabric to the front, and lift machine toot.
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4"
margin.
Sew at maximum speed until the first edge,
respecting the margin of 1/4".
Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise,
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4
margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the second edge,
respecting the margin of V..
Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads.
Lift machine foot.
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4"
margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the third edge,
respecting the margin of 1/4"
Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads.
Lift machine foot and tum cloth counterclockwise.
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4"
margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge,
respecting the margin 1/4"
Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads.
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut
threads.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
The needle.
Quality
Maintain a margin of 1/4 (+-1/16).
Ergonomics
chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing
Page | 69
forward.
Waste
Use fabric various times while practicing.
Abilities Developed
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed.
Pedal control.
Consistency in margins.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 70
B. Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material
DURATION: 18 SECS
6
6
6 X 6
Seam Type
EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, STAYING WITH IN MACHINE: SNLS
Page | 71
Machine: SNLS
Exercise : Sewing 6x 6 Staying Within Material
Goal: 18 Seconds Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #2
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place
fabric close to the apprentice.
Illustration:
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH
simultaneously.
Move fabric to the front, and lift machine foot. Place
fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin.
Lower machine foot,
Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting
the margin of (+-1/16).
Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly
1/4 from the edge.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the second edge,
respecting the margin of 1/4 (+-1/16).
Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly
from the edge.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise,
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the third edge,
respecting the margin of (+-1/16).
stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly %
from the edge,
Lift machine foot and turn cloth counterclockwise,
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge,
respecting the margin of (+-1/16)
Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads.
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut
threads,
Timekeeper stops the chronometer.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Quality
Maintain a margin of 1/4 (+-1/16).
Ergonomics
chair and Machineat a comfortable height. Back rest facing
forward.
Page | 72
Waste
Use fabric various times while practicing.
Abilities Developed
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed.
Pedal control.
Consistency in margins.
Exact stops.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 73
C. Sewing 6 x 6 back tack
6
6
Seam Type
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6 X 6, BACKTACK DURATION: 21 SECS
Page | 74
Machine: SNLS
Exercise : Sewing 6 x 6 back tack
Goal: 12 Seconds Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #3
Starting Position:
Sit straight with two feet on the treadle. Keep the trimmer so
as to access easily.
Illustration:
Methodology:
Pick two pieces of the fabrics one with each hand.
Align the fabric while moving to the needle.
Place the fabric under the needle! 1/4 from its top &
1/4 from its side. Start sewing, with back tack
Stop sewing at 1/4 from the bottom edge with
needle down. Turn the fabric CCW 90 deg & start
sewing in the same way for next 3 sides.
When sewing the 4th side! Stop where the stitch has
started & back tack (3 to 4 stitches).
Security
Keep away fingers from the needle.
Quality
Perfect alignment & regular stitch margin of 1/4 Sharp corners.
Number of back tack stitches. Avoid fullness.
Ergonomics
Keep two bundles one on each side of the body.
Waste
Abilities Developed
Completely set SNLS machine.6 x 6 fabric pieces.
Page | 75
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread cone
2 Bobbins
6 x 6 fabric
scissors
Page | 76
D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12
1
2
6
Seam Type
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 3 SIDES 6 X 12 DURATION: 21 SECS
Page | 77
Machine: SNLS
Exercise : Sew Over 3 Sides 6x 12
Goal:14 Seconds Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #4
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place
fabric close to the operator.
Illustration:
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Take corners of fabric with both hands.
Lift machine root.
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a
margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting
the margin of (+-1/16)).
Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly
from the edge.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise
with LH.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the second edge,
respecting the margin of (+-1/16)
Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly
1/4 from the edge.
Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise.
Lower machine foot.
Sew at maximum speed until the third edge,
respecting the margin of 1/4 (+.l/16).
Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads.
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut
threads.
Timekeeper stops the chronometer.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of 1/4 (+-1/16).
Ergonomics
chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing
forward.
Page | 78
Waste
Use fabric various times while practicing.
Abilities Developed
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed.
Pedal control.
Consistency in margins.
Exact stops.
Joining and handling of large pieces
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 79
E. 12 X 6 Top stitch
6
1
2
Seam Type
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: 6 X 12 TOP STITCH DURATION: 14 SECS
Page | 80
Machine: SNLS
Exercise : 12 X 6 Top stitch
Goal: 14 Seconds Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #5
Starting Position:
With both legs on treadle, pressure foot up.
Illustration:
Methodology:
Pick up the fabric from the side at the corners facing
towards you with both hands.
Keep RH side open corner near (under) the needle
make sure of the stitch margin (1/4) using the scale
near needle. Put presser foot down.
Start sewing maintaining straight line & stitch margin.
Stop the needle at 1/4 from both sides. At that time
needle should be down . Turn the fabric 90 Degrees
anticlockwise. Start sewing st line and margin of 1/4.
Keeping needle down at that point , turn fabric 90 deg
anticlockwise and sew off maintaining st. line and
margin Lift the presser foot with knee lift and pull the
fabric with left hand. Take the trimmer with RH and
cut the thread. Time starts right from picking to the
cutting of the thread. No back tack
Security
When placing the fabric under needle, needle should be up.
Quality
Alignment should be proper; stitch should be straight; stitch
margin of 1/4.
Ergonomics
. Trimmers should be small but easy to handle and operate.
Waste
While cutting the thread dont pull more thread.
Abilities Developed
Alignment of parts;
Maintaining the margin without the help of guides
Stopping the machine where ever we want with
needle down.
Hands and eye coordination for faster turning of parts.
Page | 81
Necessary Materials
12x12 Fabric
Trimmer.
Page | 82
F. Backtack 6x 1`2
6
1
2
Seam Type
DURATION: 20SECS EXERCISE: BACKTACK 12 X 12 MACHINE: SNLS
Page | 83
Machine: SNLS
Exercise : Backtack 6x 1`2
Goal: 15 Seconds Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #6
Starting Position:
Place the fabric on your lap, pick up using both hands, let
both feet be on the treadle.
Illustration:
Methodology:
This exercise is carried on the fabric which comes
from the exercise 12x6 top stitch.
Initial markings have to be done on the fabric for
backtacking.
For this fold the given fabric, such that both edges
coincide and crease at the center. Now fold on
the folded fabric, such
that edges coincides & crease.
When the folded fabric is opened, it looks as
indicated in sketch[2].
Now you see three crease lines at A.B,C. Mark
3/8 above and creased line.(A).Repeat above
said step for B and c.
The fabric is ready for backtacking.
Places at which back tacking have to be carried
out are indicated in sketch 4.
Backtack at point-I and sew tilt pcint-2 and at
potnt-2 backtack and sew till -3 and at point-4
backtack and sew till point-5 backtack & stop.
Now the fabric should be as shown in sketch (5J.
At point-5 stop and cut the thread using clipper
and dispose.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Line sewn should be straight and length of backtacking
should be within the boundary with an allowance of one
stitch on either side, i.e. half a stitch outside or inside the
band is ok, no more
Ergonomics
chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing
forward.
Waste
Use fabric various times while practicing.
Page | 84
Abilities Developed
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed.
Pedal control.
Cutting, Disposing and Stacking.
Exact stops.
Backtacking only within the boundary marked
Necessary Materials
SNLS
Thread
Bobbin
12 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 85
G. Baste 6 X 6 in Chain
5 1/2
5
Seam Type
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: HEMMING 6 7/8 X 6, INCHAIN DURATION: 18SECS
Page | 86
Machine: SNLS
Exercise : Baste 6 X 6 in Chain
Goal: 30 Seconds Exercise Number :
Fabric Exercise #7
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place
fabric close to the operator.
Illustration:
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Take fabric with LH.
Fold fabric lightly on one side.
Move towards machine foot.
Lift machine foot.
Verify the fold is .
Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a margin.
Lower machine foot.
Sew fabric with rhythm guiding it with the RH while the LH
takes another fabric.
Repeat the previous instructions until 5 pieces are sewn.
Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads.
Timekeeper stops the chronometer.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
The needle.
Use safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of (+-1/16)
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing
forward.
Waste
Use fabric various times while practicing.
Page | 87
Abilities Developed
Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed.
Pedal control.
Consistency in margins.
Exact stops.
Joining and handling of large pieces
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread cone
2 Bobbins
6 x 6 fabric
Scissors
Page | 88
CHAPTER - V
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART
Page | 89
1. CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS
GRADE: 1" 1" 1 1/2" 1 1/2" 1 1/2" 2"
SIZE: 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
1 Bust: 34 35 36 37 1/2 39 40 1/2 42 1/2
2 Waist; 24 25 26 27 1/2 29 30 1/2 32 1/2
3 Abdomen: 32 1/2 33 1/2 34 1/2 36 37 1/2 39 41
4 Hip: 35 1/2 36 1/2 37 1/2 39 40 1/2 42 44
UPPER TORSO (bodice):
5 Center length:
Front 14 1/2 14 3/4 15 15 1/4 15 1/2 15 3/4 16
Back 16 3/4 17 17 1/4 17 1/2 17 3/4 18 18 1/4
6 Full length:
Front 17 17 3/8 17 3/4 18 1/8 18 1/2 18 7/8 19 1/4
Back 17 1/4 17 5/8 18 18 3/8 18 3/4 19 1/8 19 1/2
7 Shoulder slope:
Front 16 1/2 17 17 1/4 17 4/5 18 1/4 18 2/3 19 1/8
Back 16 1/4 16 2/3 17 1/8 17 4/7 18 18 4/9 18 7/8
8 Strap:
Front 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 3/8 10 3/4 11 1/8 11 5/8
9 Bust depth: 9 9 1/8 9 1/4 9 3/8 9 1/2 9 5/8 10
Bust radius 2 3/4 2 7/8 3 3 1/8 3 1/4 3 3/8 3
10 Bust span: 3 1/2 3 5/8 3 3/4 3 7/8 4 4 1/8 4
11 Side length: 8 1/4 8 3/8 8 1/2 8 5/8 8 3/4 8 7/8 9
12 Back neck: 2 3/4 2 7/8 3 3 1/8 3 1/4 3 3/8 3
13 Shoulder length: 5 1/8 5 1/5 5 1/4 5 3/8 5 1/2 5 5/8 5 4/5
14 Across shoulder:
Front 7 1/4 7 3/8 7 1/2 7 2/3 7 7/8 8 8 1/3
Back 7 3/8 7 1/2 7 5/8 7 4/5 8 8 1/5 8 4/9
15 Across chest: 6 61/4 6 3/8 6 4/7 6 3/4 7 7 1/5
16 Across back: 6 3/4 6 7/8 7 7 1/5 7 3/8 7 4/7 7 4/5
17 Bust arc: 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 1/8 10 1/2 10 7/8 11 3/8
18 Back arc: 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 3/8 9 3/4 10 1/8 10 5/8
19 Waist arc:
Front 6 1/4 6 1/2 6 3/4 7 1/8 7 1/2 7 7/8 8 3/8
Back 5 3/4 6 6 1/4 6 5/8 7 7 3/8 7 7/8
20 Dart placement: 3 3 1/8 3 1/4 3 3/8 3 1/2 3 5/8 3
LOWER TORSO (Skirt/Pant):
21 Abdominal arc:
Front 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 1/8 9 1/2 9 7/8 10 3/8
Back 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 3/8 8 3/4 9 1/8 9 5/8
22 Hip arc:
Front 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 10 1/8 10 5/8
Back 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 7/8 10 1/4 10 5/8 11 1/8
23 Crotch depth: 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 1/4 10 1/2 10 3/4 11
24 Hip depth:
Center front 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 3/4 10
Center back 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 9
25 Side hip depth: 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 93/4 10 10
26 Waist to ankle: 37 37 1/2 38 38 1/2 39 39 1/2 40
Waist to Floor: 39 39 1/2
40 40 41 1/2 42
Waist to Knee: 22 1/2 22 5/8 23 23 3/8 23 3/4 24 1/8 24
27 Crotch Length 24 1/2 25 1/4 26 26 3/4 27 1/2 28 1/4 29
Vertical Trunk 60 61 62 63 1/2 65 66 1/2 68
Page | 90
28 Upper Thigh 19 1/2 20 1/4 21 22 23 24 25
Mid Thigh 17 17 1/2 18 18 3/4 19 1/2 20 1/4 21
29 Knee 13 13 1/2 14 14 1/2 15 15 1/2 16
30 Calf 11 11 1/2 12 12 1/2 13 13 1/2 14
31 Ankle 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 1/4 10 1/2 10 3/4 11
2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN
AGE GROUP CHEAST WAIST
WAIST
LENGTH
ACROSS
BACK
SHORT
SLEEVE
LONG
SLEEVE
FULL
LENGTH
HIP
3-9
MOUNTHS 19'' 19'' 6'' 8'' 2 3/4'' 6 1/2'' 14'' 18''
1YEARS 20'' 19''-20'' 7'' 8 1/2'' 3'' 7'' 16'' 20''
2YEARS 21'' 20''-21'' 8'' 8 3/4'' 3 1/4'' 8'' 16'' 22''
3YEARS 22'' 21'' 9'' 9'' 3 1/2'' 8 3/4'' 20'' 24''
4YEARS 23'' 22'' 9 1/2'' 9 1/2'' 4'' 9 1/2'' 20 1/2'' 25''
5YEARS 24'' 23'' 10'' 10'' 4 1/2'' 11'' 22'' 26 1/2''
6YEARS 24 1/2'' 24 1/2'' 10 1/2'' 10 1/2'' 4 3/4'' 11 1/2'' 22 1/2'' 27''
7YEARS 25'' 25'' 11'' 11'' 5'' 12'' 23-24'' 27 1/2''
8YEARS 26'' 25'' 11 1/2'' 11 1/2'' 5 1/2'' 12 1/2'' 24 1/2'' 28''
9YEARS 27'' 25'' 12'' 12'' 6'' 13'' 26 1/2'' 28 1/0''
10 YEARS 28'' 26'' 12 1/2'' 12 1/2'' 6 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 26 1/2-27 '' 29''
11YEARS 28'' 28 1/2'' 13'' 13'' 7'' 14'' 27'' 30''
3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS
AGE
GROUP
12-13YEARS 14-15 YEARS 16-17 YEARS 18-19 YEARS
CHEAST 30'' 32'' 34'' 35''
WAIST 24'' 25'' 25 1/2'' 26''
CENTER
BACK
12 1/2'' 13'' 13 1/2'' 14''
WAIST
LENGTH
12 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 14 1/2'' 15''
HIP 32'' 34'' 36'' 37''
SLEEVE
LENGTH
16 1/2'' 17'' 17 1/2'' 18''
Page | 91
CHAPTER - VI
MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Page | 92
A. Safety- Rules
Safety is important to everyone and it is your responsibility to maintain a safe working place.
To maintain a safe environment, learn these safety rules and practice them at all times.
When in doubt, ask the instructor
Report any injuries or accidents immediately to the instructor.
Report a breakage to a tool or machine to the instructor. If the equipment does not operate
properly, notify the instructor immediately.
Wipe up any oil specified on the floor immediately to prevent anyone from slipping.
Keep aisles clear at all times.
Operate only the machines you have been trained to operate.
Operate machine. only when the instructor or laboratory assistant is present.
Operate machines only with permission.
Always inspect the machine before starting to work. Be sure it is clean and threaded
correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt and all guards in place.
Make only adjustments you have been trained to perform. Otherwise, as the instructor.
When sewing on a power machine, wear low shoes and close-fitting clothing. Avoid loose
fitting sleeves, sweaters, jewelry, ties, and ribbons when operating the machine. If your hair
is long, tie it back.
Always practice proper posture to reduce fatigue, help prevent accidents and increase
efficiency. If possible, adjust the chair height 5) that your feet rest flat on the floor.
Do not I your chair forward or toward while operate he machine.
Use both hands to raise and lower the machine head.
Always keep your head above the table.
Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle.
Turn the motor off before you are not stitching.
Turn the motor off before cleaning, Oiling or adjusting the machine.
Page | 93
Turn the motor off before removing or replacing the pulley belt and run the machine out.
Waft until all motion has stopped.
Turn the motor off in case of an emergency or when in doubt.
Turn the motor off before unplugging the machine.
When unplugging the machine, hold onto the plug, not the cord.
Do not use your hand to stop and start the hand wheel.
Use your hand only to set the hand wheel.
Before operating the machine, close the slide bed cover.
Before operating the machine, be sure the needle is properly set and the bobbin is properly
placed.
When operating the machine, do not be careless~
When operating the machine, do not talk with your colleagues.
When operating the machine, keep your attention on your work and hands.
When operating the machine, keep your hands at a safe distance from the needle.
When operating the machine, keep your hands, scissors, and other sharp objects away from
the belt.
Keep the machine and work station clean with an tools in the side drawer.
Use the proper needle for the job.
Do not stitch over pins or put them in your mouth.
When the machine is not in use, lower the foot and needle.
Three-way plugs are a safety feature on the machines. Do not cut off the ground prong.
Unplug the machine at the end of the day.
Know the location of the main power switch, outlets, and fuses in case of an emergency.
Do not remove any safety devices from the machines.
Turn off the iron at the of the class.
Always place the iron on the iron pad to avoid scorching the ironing board cover.
Always place the industrial iron flat on the iron pad to avoid knocking it over.
Page | 94
When trimming or cutting, put all trimmings in the wastebasket.
Scissors should be handed to another person with the handles toward the person.
Never toss or throw scissors or equipment.
Do not eat, drink, or smoke in the work area.
B. Important safety instructions
Putting sewing systems into operation is prohibited until it has been ascertained that the sewing
systems in which these sewing machines will be built into, have conformed with the safety
regulations in your country.
Technical service for those sewing systems is also prohibited.
Observe the basic safety measures, including, but not limited to the following ones,
whenever you use the machine.
Read all the instructions, including, but not limited to this Instruction Manual before you use
the machine.
In addition, keep this Instruction Manual so that you may read it at anytime when necessary.
Use the machine after it has been ascertained that it conforms with safety rules/standards
valid in your Country.
All safety devices must be in position when the machine is ready for work or in operation.
The operation without the specified safety devices is not allowed.
This machine shall be operated by appropriately-trained operators.
For your personal protection, we recommend that you wear safety glasses.
For the following, turn off the power switch or disconnect the power plug of the machine
from the receptacle.
For threading needle(s), looper, spreader etc. and replacing bobbin.
For replacing part(s) of needle, presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed dog, needle
guard, folder, cloth guide etc.
For repair work.
When leaving the working place or when the working place is unattended.
When using clutch motors without applying brake, it has to be waited until the motor
stopped totally.
If you should allow oil, grease, etc. used with the machine and devices to come in contact
with your eyes or
Page | 95
skin or swallow any of such liquid by mistake, immediately wash the contacted areas and
consult a medical doctor.
Tampering with the live parts and devices, regardless of whether the machine is powered, is
prohibited.
Repair, remodeling and adjustment works must only be done by appropriately trained
technicians or
General maintenance and inspection works have to be done by appropriately trained
personnel.
Page | 96
C. Machine adjustments and control
Adjusting the Stitch Length Regulator
The stitch length regulator controls the distance that the feed dogs move the material to the
back of the machine to make a single stitch. On newer machines, the stitch length regulator is often
a large knob or a lever on the front of the machine, making It easy to regulate. On older machines
however, the stitch length regulator is more difficult to locate and reset and ft rarely has a guide
indicating the setting.
On most newer machines, the length of each stitch is Indicated In millimeters (mm). On
other machines, the number of stitches per inch(SPI) is Indicated. This latter method is easier to use
when adjusting the stitch length regulator.
These general directions can be used for most machines, however, when a machine manual
is available, ft is always wise to review the directions in it.
1. Begin with the power switch on arid the machine unthreaded. Place a piece of paper under
the foot and stitch a straight line about 3 long.
2. Remove the paper from the machine. Mark off 2(5cm), placing the first mark midway
between two needle perforations. Begriming at the first perforation following the first mark,
count the number of perforations between the two marks. If the second line is between two
perforations, add an additional perforation.
3. To determine the number of stitches per inch (SPI), divide the number of perforations by
two - the number of inches stitched. There are 20 perforations between the two marks,
there are 10 SPI.
4. To determine the number of stitches per centimeter (SPO), divide by five - the number of
centimeters stitched. If there are 20 perforations between the two lines, there are 4 SPC.
5. To determine the number of millimeters in a stitch, divide the number of millimeters in a
stitch, divide the number of millimeters (10) In a centimeter by the number of SPO
(stitches/cm). If there are 4 SPC, each stitch Is 2.5mm (4 divided by 10) long.
6. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm or 1OSPL. Stitch 3. Mark off a 2 section, then count the
stitches to confirm the accuracy of the setting. Repeat to set the stitch length to 1.5mm (17
SPI), 2 (12 SPI). 3mm (8.8SPI), and 4 mm (6 SPI). Record your measurements In Table.
1 No. of stitches/ inch = 8
Page | 97
Stitch Length Measurements
Machine
Stitch length
Setting
No. of Stitches
per inch
301 1mm
301 1.5mm
301 2mm
301 2.5mm
301 3mm
301 4mm
Testing the tension
For most stitching, a balance tension or balanced stitch is
desired. When the tension is balanced, the threads interlock in the middle
of the material to make a perfect or balanced stitch. The seam is flat and
elastic without being loose, and there is no seam grin when the seam is
stressed.
Balanced Tension Tight upper tension Tight lower tension
If there is too much pressure on the tension discs, not enough thread is fed into the stitching and the
tension is right. The material puckers the seam is strained, and the stitches break. If there is too little
pressure, too much thread is fed, the tension is too loose, and the seam is loose and weak.
When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too tight or the tension on the bottom or bobbin
thread is too loose, the top thread lies along the surface of the material and the bobbin thread forms
loops on the top.
Page | 98
When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too loose or the bottom, or bobbin, thread is too
tight, the bottom thread lies along the underside of the material and the top thread forms loops on
the underside.
Adjusting the tension
The tension of the stitch is regulated by two controls: the upper tension regulator and the bobbin
case tension screw. The upper tension regulator is located on the front of the machine and adjusts
the tension discs.
The bobbin case tension screw, which is located on the bobbin case controls the tightness of the
bobbin case spring. These controls increase or decrease the amount of pressure on the threads as
they fed through the machine.
Because the structure, texture, thickness, density, and resiliency of the material and the size and
type of the thread affect the tension, the tension settings will vary with the material and the thread
size and type. Test the tension before beginning a garment or sewing with a different fabric, thread,
or machine.
1. Identity the upper tension regulator and the bobbin case tension screw.
2. Set the stitch length for 2 mm (128P1). Turn the upper tension regulator to the right 1/4 to
1/2 turn.
3. Fold one muslin rectangle in half crosswise and stitch on the straight grain about 1/2 from
the edge.
4. Examine the stitching to determine whether the stitching is balanced or unbalanced. If the
needle tension is tight the needle thread lies flat on the top ply and loops of the bobbin
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thread are visible, If the bobbin tension Is tight, the bobbin thread lies flat and the loops of
the needle thread are visible.
5. Adjust the bobbin tension first. To determine if it needs an adjustment, place the filled
bobbin In the bobbin case. Hold the end of the bobbin thread and jerk the thread slightly. It
should drop several Inches. If it slides freely down the thread, it needs more tension; if
doesnt slide, it needs less.
a. If it needs an adjustment, use a small screwdriver to loosen the screw on the bobbin
case. For more tension, turn the screw in small increments and no more than 1/4
turn between tests.
b. Caution: The bobbin case screw is very short and will fall out if turned too far.
6. To adjust the needle thread tension turn the tension regulator to the left to loosen it; turn it
to the right to tighten.
7. Adjust the tensions only as needed until the stitch is balanced.
8. Experiment with stitching on a variety of fabrics.
Machine Maintenance
In the apparel industry, a clean, well-oiled machine is essential for safety and good performance, the
same is true in the classroom. Generally cleanliness is the responsibility of the operators, including
students who use the machines. The machines are given a quick cleaning after every eight hours of
operation and a thorough cleaning once a week. When sewing materials that produce a lot of lint,
the machines are cleaned more frequently.
Machine maintenance is also important in preventing stitching faults. Although stitching faults can
be caused by the material, machine, or operator, most can be corrected by cleaning the machine, re-
threading it, and/or changing the needle.
In most plants, a quick cleaning is done by the operators once a day, but the responsibility for the
more thorough cleaning varies from plant to plant. In some factories, it is done by the operators on
Friday afternoon. In others, it is done by a mechanic - often, when the operators are not working.
Cleaning the Machine
When cleaning the machine, clean everything - the machine mechanism, machine table and stand,
your tools, work station area, and even your hands - to avoid soiling the materials being sewn,
prevent accidents, and avoid wear and damage to the machine.
These directions focus on the lockstitch machine, but they can easily be adapted for other machine
types.
Materials/Supplies
Paint brush (1/2 wide)
Clear disposable cloth or clean rag
Screwdriver
Sewing machine manual (when available)
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Air hose or industrial vacuum cleaner (when available)
Caution: Before cleaning any machine, turn off the machine and run it out.
1. Open the slide and remove the bobbin case, and then remove the throat plate. Occasionally
remove the face plate from the left end of the head.
2. Brush or blow away any lint, dust, or loose threads in the area around the feed dogs and
rotary hook or shuttle. Do not use anything hard, such as a screw driver or scissor points, to
remove the lint. When cleaning the over lock machine, open the cloth plate and looper
cover to blow out any lint in those areas. On the blind stitch machine, open the plate to
expose and clean the area around the spreader.
3. Turn the hand wheel manually to expose any areas that might have been hidden initially;
brush again.
4. Carefully tilt the machine head back until the head rests on the post on the back of the table.
5. Brush out any lint, dust, or threads in the lower part of the machine. Use a rag to remove
any lint on the machines mechanism, excess oil in the pan, and, if appropriate, the oil pump
screen.
6. If the machine is not self-oiling, consult the manual for oiling directions. If the manual is not
available, place one drop of oil on each moving part on the lower mechanism.
7. Press the knee lift to the right and lower the machine head into position.
8. Replace all plates and screws.
9. Oil the upper mechanism by placing a c p of oil in each oil bole
10. Replace the bobbin case.
11. Check the needle to be sure it is clean and the eye is not clogged.
12. Replace the needle if necessary.
13. Wipe away any excess oil or dust on the head, machine bed, thread stand, motor, table and
stand.
14. If there is lint between the tension discs and in the thread guides, use thread to floss the
tension discs and remove any lint.
15. If you have oiled the machine, sew on a few scraps to remove any excess oil.
16. Wash your hands after cleaning and oiling the machine.
17. At the end of the day, put a piece of stitching patch under the foot, lower the foot, cover the
machine, and pick up any trash.
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CHAPTER - VII
NEEDLE
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1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE
Basic Skills
To use Industrial machinery efficiently, you should be able to select and set a needle; adjust
the stitch length regulator, pressure regulator, and knee lift; Identify balanced tension and adjust as
needed; and select appropriate thread.
Setting the Needle
In the apparel industry, there are literally thousands of different machines, each requiring a different
needle type. On most newer machines, the needle type for that particular machine is identified on
the machine head. However, each needle manufacturer identified its needles in a different way; the
needles for the same type of system may have several different names or numbers, depending on
the manufacturer.
Directions:
1. Begin with the power switch off. Hand wheel until the needle moves machines; you will turn
the counterclockwise - the direction operating.
2. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to loosen the screw in the needle bar just enough to
release the needle.
Changing the needle
3. Remove the needle from the needle bar. If the needle is broken, remove any broken parts
that may have dropped into the machine. If part of the shank remains in the needle bar after
the screw is loosened, tap the needle bar with the handle of the screwdriver. If it still does
not Fall out, turn the machine on, raise the presser foot, and stitch slowly until the vibration
causes the needle to drop out.
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4. Dispose of the needle safely.
5. Note To make a safe container for disposing needles; punch a small hole in the top of a
discarded film container.
6. Check the new needle for straightness by rolling it on the machine table. If the needle is
straight, the blade of the needle will remain parallel to the table surface when it is rolled.
Check the needle point for burrs by running your fingertip over the point.
7. To check the needle and thread compatibility, thread the needle with a short length of
thread. Hold the thread taut at each end in vertical position. The needle should spin slowly
dawn and around the thread. If It slides slowly down and around the thread. If it slides too
quickly or does not slide at all, try a different size needle or select another thread.
8. Use your thumbnail to locate the long groove on the needle. This will help you to set the
needle correctly.
9. Hold the new needle between your right thumb and forefinger at the base of the shank
where the groove begins.
10. Locate the last thread guide on the needle bar. On straight-stitch machines, the guide is
generally to the left of the needle. Insert the needle into the needle bar so that the groove is
facing the side with the last thread guide (left) and the eye is in line with the arm of the
machine. Check to be sure the needle is inserted into the needle bar as high as possible.
11. Tighten the needle bar screw.
12. Tighten the machine and stitch slowly. If the needle is positioned correctly, there will be no
skipped stitches and no unexpected noises. If it is not set properly, remove the needle and
reset it.
Reasons to Change a Needle
There are many reasons for changing the needle. Some of them are:
1. The needle is damaged: bent, burred, or broken.
2. The needle is dull and makes a popping sound when stitching
3. The thread breaks frequently during stitching.
4. The machine is skip stitching.
5. A different thread size is required.
6. A different fabric is sewn with a different weight, thickness and construction.
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2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS
1. Butt: A small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is
designed to make a single-point contact with the hole in the
needle bar.
2. Shank: The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle
bar by the needle screw. The shank is usually round, but it can
have one or two flat sizes. Designed to support and stabilize the
needle blade, the diameter of the shank is usually larger than
the diameter of the blade.
3. Shoulder: The beginning of the shank just above the needle
blade.
4. Blade: The thin section of the needle that extends from the
shank to the eye. It is easily bent and should be examined for
straightness periodically.
5. Scarf (needle scarf, clearance above the eye, clearance cut, or
spot): A small indentation above the eye that permits the hook
or looper to pick up the thread loop. On some needles, the scarf
is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the needle thread
loop will be large enough to prevent skip stitching.
6. Land: A small hump on the blade immediately above the eye.
Used instead of a scarf, its purpose is to enable the needle
thread to make a larger loop and form a stitch.
7. Eye: An opening in the needle blade at the lower end of the
long groove that carries the thread into the material to the
hook or looper to make a stitch. The size of the eye is
proportional to the diameter of the blade.
8. Point: The tapered end. It is often considered the most
critical aspect of the needle. The most common needles have a
round point, a ballpoint, or a cutting point as shown on page 44.
Generally round points and ballpoints are used for woven and
knit fabrics because they can penetrate the fabric by spreading
the fibers or deflecting the yarns without damaging them. By
contrast, needles with cutting points are used for leather.
9. Tip: The part of the needle that pierces the material.
10. Needle groove (long groove): A g channel on the black it is located on the side on which the need
dread enters the eye a provides a Protective guide for the thread when the needle is rising and the
needle- thread loop is enlarging.
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11. Short groove: A short channel immediately above the needle eye. Located on the side opposite
the long groove, it is a guide for the needle thread and protects it from abrading when passing
through the material.
Needle Selection
Once the needle system type Is determined, the needle selection - its needle point and size -
depends primarily on the characteristics of the fabric, but also on the thread, seam type,
and stitch type.
Needle point
The needle point is determined by the fabric weight and its structure. Round points have a conical
shape designed to spread the yarns without breaking them; they are used for most woven and many
knitted materials.
Ballpoint needles have a rounded point and range from light to heavy. They are generally used for
knits and stretch fabrics and sometimes for button sewing because they center most misaligned
buttons and do not cut existing stitches.
Cutting points have sharp cutting edges; they are used on leather, suede, and neoprene.
Needle Size
The needle size can be as small as 60 (0-6mm) or as large as 250 (2.5 mm). The metric size describes
the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimeter. The needle size is determined by the
thread size.
If the needle is too fine, it will abrade the thread bend, break, affect the loop formation, and cause
skipped stitches. if it is too course, it will damage the fabric, produce an unattractive seam, cause the
seam to pucker, affect the loop formation, and cause skipped stitches.
Generally the best choice is the smallest size that will not skip stitches.
Round point Ball point Leather point
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3. STANDARD NEEDLES
The configuration of these needles is based on the particular fabric to be sewn.
Universal needle
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics.
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point
and elongated scarf to enable almost
foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin
hook.
Troubleshooting: When fabric is not
medium-weight woven, consider needle
specifically suited to fabric. For example, size
18 universal needle works on heavy denim,
but size 18 jeans needle works better.
Ballpoint and stretch needles
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser
sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic
fabrics, like
Spandex, or Lycra.
Configuration: Both have rounded points that
penetrate between fabric threads rather than
pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly
less rounded than ballpoint.)
Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with
ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see
which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If
ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.
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Microtex and sharp needles
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic
leather; precisely stitching edges; and
heirloom sewing.
Configuration: Has an acute point.
Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free,
but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or
even/dual-feed presser foot.
Leather needle
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural
leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point
(almost like an arrowhead).
Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather,
unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts
rather than pierces stitch hole and can
tear leather. Most synthetic leathers
require Microtex or sharp needle.
Denim (jeans) needle
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck,
canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial
leather, and vinyl.
Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute
point, and modified shaft to sew without
pushing fabric down into needle-plate
hole. Goes through fabric and meets
bobbin hook better on dense woven
fabrics.
Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when
sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and
sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric
(by turning hand crank).
Handicap/self-threading needle
Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers
with vision problems.
Configuration: Universal needle with slip-
in threading slot at the eye.
Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece
back away from needle before cutting
thread so needle doesn't unthread.
Needle works well on woven fabrics, but
may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew
to check for fabric and needle
compatibility.
Decorative needles
The configuration is designed to wed thread to fabric for surface embellishment.
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Topstitching needle
Uses: Topstitching.
Configuration: Has extra-acute point,
extra-large eye, and large groove for heavy
thread.
Troubleshooting: Use smallest size needle
that accommodates your thread to avoid
punching large holes in fabric.
Embroidery needle
Uses: Machine embroidering or
embellishing with decorative thread.
Configuration: Has light point (neither
sharp nor ballpoint) and enlarged eye to
keep decorative threads from shredding or
breaking, and prevent skipped stitches.
Troubleshooting: If thread still shreds on
dense or heavily stitched design, use larger
size needle or Metallica needle.
Metallic needle
Uses: Sewing with decorative metallic
threads.
Configuration: Has universal or standard
point; large, elongated eye; and large
groove to allow fragile metallic and
synthetic filament threads to flow
smoothly.
Troubleshooting: Metallic threads are very
sensitive to problems in machine: Tiniest
burr on thread path or needle can cause
problems.
Quilting needle
Uses: Piecing, quilting, and stippling.
Configuration: Has special tapered shaft to
prevent damaging fabrics when stitching
multiple layers.
Troubleshooting: Move fabric smoothly
without pulling on needle when free-
motion stitching to prevent breaking
needle.
Special-purpose needles
These needles are used only with front-to-back threading machines with zigzag features. Make sure
your throat-plate needle hole is wide enough to accommodate needle's width, and zigzag width
function is set at zero to prevent sideways movement.
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Hemstitch (wing) needle
Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom
embroidery on linen and batiste.
Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank
to create holes as you sew.
Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective
when needle returns to same needle
hole more than once. If needle pushes
fabric into needle hole, put stabilizer
under fabric.
Twin (double) needle
Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and
decorative stitching.
Configuration: Two needles on single shaft
produce two rows of stitches.
Measurement between needles ranges
from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come
with universal, stretch, embroidery,
denim, and Metallica points.
Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate
allows for distance between needles.
Triple needle
Uses: Same uses as for double needle.
Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft
connects three needles to sew three
stitching rows. Comes with universal
point in 2.5mm and 3mm widths.
Troubleshooting: Same as for double
needle.
Spring needle
Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped
feed dogs.
Configuration: Has wire spring above point
to prevent fabrics from riding up onto
needle, eliminating need for presser foot.
Troubleshooting: Before using, practice
free-motion stitching with heavy regular
needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs.
Don't pull paper/fabric; instead gently
guide it through stitching. Wear safety
glasses for free-motion work, since needles often
break.
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4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE
s.no Types of Sewing Machines
Needle
System
1 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines DA X 1or DB X 1
2
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Automatic Thread
Trimmer DA X 1or DB X 1
3
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Fabric Edge
Trimmer DA X 1or DB X 1
4 Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine DP X 5
5 Single Needle Lock Stitch Zigzag Machine DB X 1
6 THREE Thread Over Lock Machine
DC X 1 or DC X
27
7 FIVE thread Over Lock With Safety Stitch Machine
DC X 1 or DC X
27
8 Button Hole Machine DP X 5
9 Chain Stitch Button Stitch Machine TQ X 1 or TV X 7
10 Lock Stitch Button Stitch Machine TQ X 1 or TV X 7
11 Inter Lock/Flat Lock Machine UY X 1 or GAS
12 Feed Of The Arm Machine For Denim TV X 1 or TV X 7
13 One &Two Needle Chain Stitch Machine TV X 1 or TV X 7
14 Blind Stitch Machine LW X 6T
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5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED
S.No Needle Size Type Of Material
1 #9 to #11 Light Weight Materials Like silk synthetic, knitwear
2 #14 to #16 Medium Weight Materials Like Textile, natural fabrics etc..
3 #18 to #20 Heavy weight materials like denim etc..
4 #22& onwards Extra Heavy weight materials like leather etc..
Classification of needle according to point
1. Normal round point needle
They are used for woven materials etc example; DB X 1
2. Light ball point needles
They are used for thin material, silk etc., & button hole sewing. Example: DP x Si
3. Medium ball point needles
They are used for hosiery material etc., Example: IJY 128 GAS
4. Heavy ball point needles
They are used for sewing heavy weight materials like rubber etc.
5. Stub point needles
They are used for sewing buttons.
Feed dog Variations
Very light weight materials
Fine toothed feed dogs with a pitch of only 1.0 to 125 mm to be used to avoid feed
damage (pitch = distance between two points in feed dog.)
Light to medium weight material
Tooth pitch of 1.3 to 11.6 mm and the peaks of the teeth slightly rounded off to avoid
damage on fine material
Heavy weight material
To keep the both plies together while sewing coarser feed dog of 2.5mm tooth pitch is
needed
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Delicate fabric
Even after rounding of teeth tip damage may be caused to rubber coated feed dog with no
sharp teeth at all may be used
STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS:
I) Lock stitch machines
A) Single Needle Lock Stitch
1. Needle bar height
2. hook timing and clearance
3. Feed dog height and centering
4. Feed timing.
B) Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine
1. Difference between split needle bar and non-split needle bar.
2. Needle bar height
3. Hook timing and clearance
Page | 113
CHAPTER - VIII
SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA
Page | 114
Sewing thread is usually less than 1/1000th of the weight of apparel, but it carries more one
half the responsibilities for its performance
THREAD SELECTION
FACTORES IN THREAD SELECTION
Garment design, type, quality, end use, and life expectancy
Desired strength and durability
Fabric weight and type
Stitch and seam type, number of stitches/inch, machine speed, and needle size
Cost
Thread Properties
Threads are used to form the stitches that hold the fabric parts Together. They can be
described by fiber type, constriction, and size
Fiber Type
Threads can be made from a single fiber type such as cotton, linen, silk, rayon, nylon,
polyester, or rubber or from a combination of fibers such as cotton/polyester.
Natural fiber threads
The most common natural fiber used for threads, cotton threads, have excellent sewabllity
with little kinking or skip stitching. They are rarely affected by hot needles - a common element of
high-speed sewing machines-and even sew well on poorly adjusted machines.
Cotton threads dye well, and since they mold to the fabric better than other fibers, they are
particularly attractive for topstitched elements. Compared to synthetic threads, their strength and
resistance to abrasion is inferior, and they shrink and mildew when wet.
Cotton threads are produced with three finishes: soft, glace and mercerized.
Soft finish threads receive no additional processing except bleaching and dyeing. Used on
inexpensive garments, they are relatively inexpensive with good sewabllity but because they have a
high shrinkage, seam pucker] fl g is frequently a problem after washing.
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Glace threads are treated with wax and special chemicals for a hard, glossy finish. They are stronger,
more resistant to abrasion, and stiffer than other cotton threads. They are available in a limited
color selection and used for gathering and for sewing heavy materials, leather, vinyl, and canvas.
Mercerized threads are treated with a caustic solution to create a smooth, strong, lustrous
thread. They are frequently used on cotton garments that will be dyed.
Linen and silk threads are rarely used in production because of their high cost.
Synthetic threads
The most common synthetic threads, polyester and nylon, were developed to perform well
on synthetic fabrics and withstand the chemicals and heat of durable press treatments. Compared to
cotton threads of the same size, they are stronger, more resistant to abrasion, mildew and
ultraviolet radiation, and have less shrinkage.
Combination fibers
One of the most common threads in use today is a combination of cotton and polyester, which
combines the sew ability of cotton with polyesters strength and resistance to abrasion.
Thread construction
Although there are a variety of thread constructions, most threads used in garments are twisted,
core spun, monofilament, or textured.
Twisted threads
All natural fibers, with the exception of silk, begin with fibers - short lengths of staple, which
are twisted together to make a single-ply thread. Then two or more plies are twisted together in the
reverse direction to make a sewing thread with a balanced. Twist Without this balance, the thread
could not be controlled.
Twist Direct
Z - Twist S - Twist
Most threads are finished with a Z or left twist because the action of the lockstitch machine would
cause threads with an 8 twist to unwind
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One exception is the double-needle lockstitch, which has two bobbins one revolving to the left and
one to the right. This type of machine requires threads with both twists.
In addition to the natural fibers, polyester, silk, and nylon filaments cut or broken Into staple lengths.
Spun polyester thread is one of the most common.
Core spun
Core spun threads begin with a continuous filament of polyester, which is then wrapped with a
cotton or polyester sheath to make a single-ply thread.
Then the two to four plies are twisted together to make the sewing thread
Cotton/poly threads have the advantage of better sew ability, while poly/poly
Threads can be dyed in a one-step process.
Monofilament Threads
Monofilament is simply a single filament of nylon of polyester. It is stiff,
wiry, and unravels easily. It is uncomfortable next to the skin and harsh on
machines. Available only in clear, light and dark gray, monofilament Threads are translucent and
reflect the fabrics color. Monofilament threads are used primarily for blind hemming and surging
inexpensive garments and Household textiles.
Textured Threads
Made of multifilament that have been crimp textured or bulked by twisting, crimping, and
untwisting, textured threads have a soft Land, good coverage, and elasticity. The most common use
of textured threads is in the loopers of over edge and cover stitch machines; however, very fine sizes
can be used as needle threads on chain stitch and over edge machines. They can also be used as
bobbin threads to add moderate stretch to a lock stitched seam.
Thread Size
The thread size is dependent on many factors - such as the fabric weight and type, stitch and seam
type, machine speed, needle size, end use,
and seam strength.
Most threads are sized using the Tex system or the cotton count system. The Tex system, which is
generally used in manufacturing, is a direct system, arid the number increases with the thread size.
The cotton system; and the number decrease with the thread size. Generally it is easier to
comparing the Tex numbers when comparing threads with different constructions F example, a core
spun thread ha size 100 is equivalent to spun polyester thread in size 70 (T-27); and it is larger than
spun polyester in size 100 (T-21) and textured polyester in size 150 (T.-18).
If your retailer does not stock threads with a Tex number designation, you can substitute other
good quality threads. Long staple polyester, cotton- wrapped polyester, and mercerized cotton
threads are suitable for general sewing on most fabrics. For very lightweight fabrics, use fine cotton
embroidery thread (60/2) or fine cotton-wrapped polyester. For heavier fabrics, use topstitching
thread or buttonhole twist.
The Needle Size Chart from American & Efird, Inc. provides a useful guide for selecting compatible
needles and threads. However, it Is important to remember that this is the minimum recommended
needle size and that a larger needle may be required for the fabric or application.
Page | 117
CHAPTER - IX
TYPES OF STITCHES & SEAM
Page | 118
1. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
How a stitch is formed
The formation of a stitch begins when the needle penetrates the fabric and descends to its
lowest point.
The bobbin hook then slides by the needle's scarf, catching the upper thread, and carries it
around the bobbin and bobbin thread.
The thread is then pulled up into the fabric, completing the stitch.
Each category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch formation depending on the
number of needles, looper, and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these
configurations is known as a stitch type and they are classified according to their main
characterization.
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A. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
Class 100 - Chain stitch
One of the simplest stitch types, the chain stitch has one or more needle threads and is formed
by Intra looping. This stitch is very Insecure and unravels easily if a stitch is broken or skipped or if
the last loop is not fastened securely. This stitch is used for sewing buttons and buttonholes,
hemming, basting and pad stitching.
Class 200 - Rand Stitch
Generally formed by hand, the hand stitch is made with a needle that is passed from one side of
the material to the other as a single line of thread. The most important machine to duplicate this
stitch is a pick stitching machine, which is used as a decorative detail on the other edges of jackets.
Class 300 - Lockstitch
The most common stitch type, the lockstitch has two or more groups of threads that interlace to
form the stitch. One group is called the needle threads and the other the bobbin threads. These
stitches do not unravel easily and always require a bobbin. Very versatile, they are used for seaming,
hemming, and setting zippers and pockets.
Class 400 - Multi Thread Chain stitch
Sometimes called a double-locked stitch, the multithread chain stitch has two or more groups of
threads that interlace and interloop with each other. One group is called the needle threads and the
other the looper threads. This stitch is actually stronger than the lockstitch; however, if the threads
are not properly secured on the finishing end, it will unravel. It is used for seaming and in
combination with the over edge stitch on over lock machines. When used for seaming, the needle
thread determines the seam strength and the looper threads can be finer.
Class 500 - Over edge Stitch
The over edge stitch is formed with one or more groups of threads that interloop to form a
thread sheath around the fabric edge. The most common stitches have one or two needle threads
and one or two looper threads.
Overedge stitches are v elastic and do not in unravel easily. They are for neatening edges
trimming woven and low stretch knitted fabrics and decorative edgings. All of the stitches can be
used for neatening; however, one and two-thread overedge stitches cannot be used for seaming
because the stitch opens up when stressed transversely. And, since the stitches produce a closed
seam that cannot be pressed open, it is not always acceptable on better garments. When used for
seaming, the needle thread determines the seam strength.
This stitch is frequently combined with a multithread. Chain stitch (401) to seam and finish the
edges.
Class 600 Cover stitch
The most complex stitch class, the cover stitch is generally formed with three or more
groups of threads that cover the raw edges of both surfaces. Very elastic, It is used to create low -
bulk and decorative seams on underwear and knitted casual garments. Threads should be strong
with a soft hand.
Page | 120
Chain stitch (class100) Hand stitch (class 200)
Bobbin Thread Bobbin Thread
Needle Thread Needle Thread
Lock stitch (Class 300) Multi-thread Chain stitch (Class 400)
Bobbin Thread Looper Thread
Needle Thread Needle Thread
Over edge Stitch (Class 500) Cover Stitch (Class 600)
Lower Looper Thread Lower Looper Thread
Upper Looper Thread Needle Thread
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2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS
Seams are basic element of construction formed when two or more pieces of material are sewn
together, they are used for joining garment sections In the production of sewn products.
The success of every garment depends on the accuracy and skill with which the seams join the
Individual components of the garment
Factors in the selection of Seam Type and Application
1. Garment design, type, quality, end use, and care.
2. Fabric type, bulk, texture, weight transparency, and tendency to fray.
3. Desired strength and durability.
4. Difficulty of construction and skill of the operators.
5. Equipment available.
6. Cost of labor and materials.
7. Retail price.
8. Designer or manufacturer preference.
9. Current fashion trends.
Page | 122
SEAM CLASSIFICATION
As per the British standard 3870, Part 1 - 1991 seams may classified Into eight types.
Class 1 Super imposed Seam
French Seam
Piped Beam
Class 2 Lapped Seam
Lap felled Seam
Welted Seam
Class 3 Bound Seam
Class 4 Flat Seam
Class 5 Decorative Seam
Class 6 Edge neatening
Class 7 Addition of other Seams
Class 8 Belt loops
General Guide for Seam Allowances
Generally the following seam allowances are used in apparel construction, but it must be
remembered that this is only a guide and will not be appropriate for every design and fabric.
1/8 to 3/8 Enclosed seams at edges that have separate facings, mach as necklines, collars,
cuffs, and armholes, and on intricate curves. The narrowest (1/8) seam allowances can be
used on lightweight fabrics that do not fray, while the widest (3/8) are used as loosely
woven S fabrics and fabrics that ravel easily.
3/8 to 1/2 Sleeves, yokes, waistlines, gores, style lines within the silhouette, center lines,
top-stitched seams, cut-out darts, cuff/sleeve seams, band/skirt seams, inseams, and side
seams on budget and moderately priced garments.
3/4 to 1: Vertical seams on better garments, zipper plackets, and darts.
Page | 123
3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT
Counterstich sleeve
Attach sleeve
Sew front fly to left front
Sew button on front
Sew pocket
Sew buttonhole on front
Sew button to top of front & cuff
Sew side & under sleeve
Sew buttonhole to top of front & cuff
Sew yoke to back
Runstitch cuff
Page | 124
4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER
Attach zipper to left fly
Make belt loop
Sew button to fly & hip pocket
Serge front & back
Sew eyelet buttonhole
Bartack eyelet buttonhole end
Sew belt loop to waist band
Sew belt loop bottom
Sew hip pocket welt to back
Sew side
Page | 125
5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER
Hem ticket pocket
Sew eyelet buttonhole
Topstitch waist band corner
Sew waist band
Serge side pocket facing
Topstitch left front fly
Sew inseam
Hem bottom
Sew side
Bartack front fly
Sew belt loop
Make belt loop
Sew leather label to waist band
Decorative stitch to hip pocket
Sew hip pocket to back
Page | 126
Sew buttonhole to front fly
Sew button to front fly
Serge pocket mouth
Attach sleeve mouth rib to sleeve
Sew under sleeve
Sew side & under sleeve
Sew pocket
Sew sleeve
Hem bottom
Make slit
6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT
Page | 127
7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T SHIRT
Join neck rib & attach neck
rib to body
Attach sleeve
Hem sleeve
Hem bottom
Page | 128
CHAPTER - X
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES
Page | 129
1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE
S.No Sewing Defects Causes Remedies
1 Thread Breakage
Burns on the thread path,
needle point and hook tip
Remove burns by using a
emery sheet ( fine)
Needle thread tension is two
high
Adjust the needle thread
tension
Bobbin case opening lever
provides an excessive clearance
at the bobbin case
Correct the clearance between
bobbin case opening lever and
bobbin case edge.
Hook set is not lubricated
properly
Increase the oil circulation level
Thread untwists Threading should be properly.
2 Skip Stitching
Clearance between the needle
and hook tip is more
Correct hook timing and
clearance
Presser foot pressure is not
enough
Check the presser foot
regulator level
Synthetic thread or thin thread Wind the thread on the needle
3 Loose stitch
Bobbin thread does not pass
through the forked end of
tension spring on the bobbin
case
Thread the bobbin case
correctly
Bobbin does not spin smoothly Replace the bobbin
Bobbin thread tension is too low Adjust the bobbin thread
tension
Bobbin is wound too tightly Adjust the tension device in
bobbin winder assembly.
4
Thread escapes
from the needle eye
after thread
trimming
Thread tension given by the
tension post no. I is eye after
thread too high
Loosen tension post no.1
slightly.
Page | 130
2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE
S.No Sewing Defects Causes Remedies
1 Needle thread is broken
The tension of the tension
post No.2 is two tight
Decrease the tension of the
tension post
The tension or stroke of the
take up spring is more
Decrease the tension of the
take up spring
Blade point of sewing hook
has burr or scratches
Smoothen by the sand
paper.
Proper timing of the sewing
hook
Readjust the hook timing.
2 Thread slips out
Improper threading Cheek Threading
Needle Thread Move back the needle
thread trimmer driving plate
B
The whip stitch is not formed
at the start of sewing
Decrease the tension of the
tension post No.1
3
Wobbling stitches are
formed in the over edging
seams
A the tension disc no.2, is too
lose
Increase the tension.
Bobbin thread tension is too
high
Decrease the bobbin thread
tension
4 Stitches float over cloth
Bobbin thread tension is not
enough
Readjust the tension
Bobbin thread slips out of
the thread path on the
bobbin case
Properly thread the bobbin
case
5 Skip stitching
The work clamp check is too
large for button hole
Change the work clamp
check with a smaller one
The cloth is made light
weight materials
Delay the timing of the
needle and sewing hook
6
The needle Thread at the
first bar tacking comes out
and lumps on the bottom
of cloth
The tension no.1 is too loose Readjust the tension
The bobbin thread tension is
too high
Decrease the bobbin thread
tension
Page | 131
3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE
S.No Sewing Defects Causes Remedies
1 Thread breakage
The yoke slide does not move
in the correct way
Adjust the timing of the
motion of the yoke slide at
each end.
The thread tension post no.2,
fails to release the thread at
correct timing
Make the thread release
slightly easier
The thread nipper catches the
thread
Adjust the position of the
nipper bar block
The needle does not enter the
centre of the holes in the
button
Adjust the button clamp jaw
lever holder.
2 Button are not sewn tightly
The yoke slide does not move
in the correct way
Adjust the timing of the
motion of the yoke slide at
each end
The thread tension post no.2,
fails to release the thread at
correct timing
Make the thread release
slightly later
The work pressing force is too
height or too low
Adjust the work pressing
force properly
The needle does not enter the
centre of the holes in the
button
Adjust the button clamp jaw
lever holder
3
The first stitch trails
reactively long thread from
the right side of the button
The thread pull off lever does
not work properly
Adjust the thread pull off
lever by the nipper bar block
4
Thread trimming failure in
the state of stop-motion
The thread tension post Make
the thread timing no.2 fails to
release the thread at correct
timing
Make the thread timing
slightly later to give more
tension to the stitches.
The needle hits the edge of
the holes in the button
Adjust the button clamp jaw
lever holder
The button clamp assembly
does not rise to the necessary
height
Provide a 12mm clearance
between the feed plate and
button clamp jaw lever
when raised
The thread nipper fails to
press the thread
Adjust the nipper bar block
Page | 132
4. OVER LOCK MACHINE
S.No Sewing Defects Causes Remedies
1 Needle breaking
Needle type is wrong Use a specified needle
Needle size is not correct Use a needle size suitable to the
thread gauge and type of fabrics
Needle is not installed Install the needle correctly
Needle is bent Use good needle
Needle to needle guard relation
is bad
Correct the relation
Needle to looper relation is bad Correct the looper timing
2 Cloth is not cut
Position of the upper and lower
knife is inadequate
Adjust the knife position
Knife blade has worn out Sharpen the lower knife or renew
the upper knife
3 Skip stitch
Needle to looper relation is
wrong
Correct the needle-to-looper
relation
Needle is thread with 's' twist
thread
Use a Z twist thread
Thread tension is wrong Adjust the thread tension
4 Thread Breakage
Quality of the thread is poor Use the thread of good quality
Thread is too thick for needle
size
Select a suitable needle or thread
Needle is installed in wrong
way
Threading properly
Thread tension is too high Adjust the thread tension nut
5 Puckering
Feed dog comes up too much
from the throat plate
Correct the feed dog height
Differential feed mechanism is
not set Correctly
Correct the differential feed
mechanism
Pressure applied by the
pressure foot is too high or too
low
Correct the presser foot pressure
Page | 133
CHAPTER - XI
GARMENT MANUFACTURING
PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT
Page | 134
1. Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
Goal:14Seconds Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place
Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the 20x5 plaid plies, align them and place
them under needle. Take reference to any straight
line on the plaid fabric.
Start sewing by following the reference point and
sew off at the end.
Turn the fabric by 180 degrees and position it under
the needle taking a new reference point.
Continue the process 4 as many time as possible
using the same fabric.
First try to sew straight with any number of bursts
applicable to you and once you achieve this
objective try to reduce the number of bursts.
At the end of this exercise you should be able to sew
a long straight seam in a 1 or 2 bursts.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the
needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Lines sewed must be straight.
Page | 135
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Try to use the fabric given to you optimally by sewing as many
lines as possible. Keep the length of end threads low.
Abilities Developed
Ability to sew long seams straight
Ability to sew long seams in min. no. of bursts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 136
2. Attaching one piece to other using folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Attaching One Piece to Other using Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place
Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric 20 X 5
22 X 2 (Placket Piece)
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and
place under the needle.
Pick the facing from lap align and place it on the
body under the needle as shown in fig.
Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the
placket facing with right hand and body with left
hand.
While feeding ensures that the placket facing is fed
normally while body is fed a bit tighter in proportion
to placket facing.
Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until
the bundle or lot is completed.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the
needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Checks matching along the placket should be consistent.
Puckering must be avoided while placket attaching.
Page | 137
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing
attaching.
Abilities Developed
Ability to match checks while sewing.
Ability to feed two plies at different rates while sewing.
Necessary materials
DNLS
2 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
20x5 & 22 x 2 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 138
3. Placket facing attach using folder
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Placket Facing Attach Using Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place
Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric Ready Front Cuts
22 X 2 For Placket
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and
place under the needle.
Pick the facing from lap and pass it through the
folder. When placket facing reaches the other end of
folder aligns it to the body, match the checks and
position it under the needle.
Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the
placket facing with right hand and body with left
hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until
the bundle or lot is completed.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the
needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Checks matching along the placket should be consistent.
Puckering must be avoided while placket attaching.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing
attaching.
Page | 139
Abilities Developed
Ability to match checks while sewing.
Ability to feed two plies at different rates while sewing.
Ability to work with folder for attaching placket
Necessary Materials
DNLS
2 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder
Page | 140
4. Hemming operations using folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Hemming Operations Using Folder
Goal:18 Seconds Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Step 1: One Edge Without Using Folder
Step 2: Other Edge Using
Folder
Methodology:
STEP 1.
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the ply from left ext, fold it to 1at one
edge as shown in fig. and place it under the
needle.
Start sewing straight by folding the width with
right hand and feeding the fabric forward with
left hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose it in
chain until the bundle or lot is completed.
STEP 2.
Move the above chain-disposed bundle to
left side of you. Take the first piece in the
bundle and feed it to the folder attached.
Start Stitching straight by holding the fabric
with right hand and feeding it into the folder.
Sew off at the edge and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of 1 throughout the seam. Avoid
down stitches along the seam. If the fabric is plaid,
checks to be matched where ever necessary.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 141
Waste
Use the fabric further for PLK01 Exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do all hemming Operations
Ability to work in single burst using folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder
Page | 142
5. Square pocket attach
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Square Pocket Attach
Goal:
Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Ready Creased Pockets
Ready Fronts
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it
on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket
from Right extension and align it to the
marking on Front.
After Setting the pocket to Front, position
them under the needle at Point A as Shown in
Fig.
Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards
B. At B stop with needle down position turn
the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as
shown in Figure.
Sew with precision stops at all corners with
needle down position until Use reach the
Position C.
At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and
dispose the front to center runner or Disposal
Bar.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Pocket edges must be sharp.
Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front.
No Down Stitches allowed.
Page | 143
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the Fronts For Mock shoulder attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16 CL Foot
Page | 144
6. Rounded bottom pocket attach
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Rounded Bottom Pocket Attach
Goal:
Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Ready Creased Pockets
Ready Fronts
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it
on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket
from Right extension and align it to the
marking on Front.
After Setting the pocket to Front, position
them under the needle at Point A as Shown in
Fig.
Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards
B. At B stop with needle down position turn
the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as
shown in Figure.
Sew with precision stops at all corners with
needle down position until U reach the
Position C.
At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and
dispose the front to center runner or Disposal
Bar.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Pocket edges must be sharp.
Bottom Corners must be rounded precisely
Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front.
No Down Stitches allowed.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 145
Waste
Use the Fronts For Mock Shoulder Attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16 CL Foot
Page | 146
7. Bottom triangle pocket attach
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Bottom Triangle Pocket Attach
Goal:
Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Ready Creased Pockets
Ready Fronts
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it
on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket
from Right extension and align it to the
marking on Front.
After Setting the pocket to Front, position
them under the needle at Point A as Shown in
Fig.
Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards
B. At B stop with needle down position turn
the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as
shown in Figure.
Sew with precision stops at all corners with
needle down position until U reach the
Position C.
At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and
dispose the front to center runner or Disposal
Bar.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Pocket edges must be sharp.
Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front.
No Down Stitches allowed.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the Fronts For Mock shoulder attach Operation.
Page | 147
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16 CL Foot
Page | 148
8. Diamond pocket attach
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Diamond Pocket Attach
Goal:
Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Ready Creased Pockets
Ready Fronts
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it
on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket
from Right extension and align it to the
marking on Front.
After Setting the pocket to Front, position
them under the needle at Point A as Shown in
Fig.
Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards
B. At B stop with needle down position turn
the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as
shown in Figure.
Sew with precision stops at all corners with
needle down position until U reach the
Position C.
At c give a Back tack, Trim the threads and
dispose the front to center runner or Disposal
Bar.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Pocket edges must be sharp.
Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front.
No Down Stitches allowed.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 149
Waste
Use the Fronts For Mock shoulder attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16 CL Foot
Page | 150
9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Long & Short Seams with needle
Down Stoppages at Corners
Goal: 25 sec Exercise Number
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with
both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee
lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric 20 x 5
2 Plies; One
Over another
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up two 20 X 5 plies (One from right
extension and other from lap ) simultaneously
with both hands, align them on one side and
position them under needle at from corner.
Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies
using right hand and guiding the fabric forward
with left hand.
Continue stitching until you reach from
opposite edge where you stop with the needle
down position.
With the needle down position turn the plies at
90 degrees and continue stitching, holding the
fabric with right hand and guiding it with left
hand.
Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last
edge where you sew off as shown in the
diagram.
With trimmer on right hand cut the sew off
thread and dispose.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle
must be in down position while stopped at corners.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 151
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other
exercises if possible.
Abilities Developed
Ability to hold and sew long seams straight.
Ability to stop with needle down
Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 152
Machine: SNLS 10. Collar run stitch operation
Exercise: Mock Collar RunStitch
Goal: 25 sec Exercise Number
CL 02
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Ready Cut Collar Plies
2 Plies; One
Over another
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up two Collar Plies (One from right
extension and other from lap ) simultaneously
with both hands, align them on one side and
position them under needle at from corner.
Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning
plies using right hand and guiding the fabric
forward with left hand.
Continue stitching until you reach from
opposite edge where you stop with the needle
down position.
With the needle down position turn the plies
at 90 degrees and continue stitching, holding
the fabric with right hand and guiding it with
left hand.
Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last
edge where you sew off as shown in the
diagram.
With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off
thread and dispose.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle
must be in down position while stopped at corners.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other
exercises if possible.
Page | 153
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Collar RunStitch Operation.
Ability to stop with needle down
Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges.
Necessary Material
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Cut Collar Plies
Page | 154
11. Top stitch along edges
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Top Stitch along Edges
Goal: 20 Sec Exercise Number CL 03
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Pcs From CL01 to be turned & Used for this
Operation
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the piece from Machine bed and place
it under the needle at a distance of from
the edge.
Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of
until you reach from opposite edge
where you stop with the needle down
position.
With the needle down position turn the plies
at 90 degrees and continue stitching.
Repeat the steps 3 & 4 until you reach the last
edge where you sew off as shown in the
diagram.
With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off
thread and dispose.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle
must be in down position while stopped at corners.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 155
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other
exercises if possible.
Abilities developed
Ability to do Collar RunStitch Operation.
Ability to stop with needle down
Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges.
Necessary material
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 BobbinsReady
Cut Collar Plies
Page | 156
12. Hem along the contour
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Hem along the Contour
Goal: 24 seconds Exercise Number
CL 05
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the fabric From Lap, fold it 3/8 at the
corner and place it under the needle.
Sew at margin from the edge carefully
following the contour.
Trim the thread and remove the fabric.
Fold the fabric along the other edge at 3/8
width and place it under the needle.
Hem stitch folding the margin with the right
hand and guiding the fabric with the left hand
by maintaining the width from the edge
throughout the contour.
Trim the thread and dispose the fabric.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. No
down or dropped stitch allowed during hemming. Keep
the puckering minimal along round edges.
Page | 157
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in Pick
attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to fold and hem stitch along the curve.
Ability to maintain equal-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer
Page | 158
13. Mock neck band hem
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Neck Band Hem
Goal: 16 seconds Exercise Number
CL 06
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric 20 X 3
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the fabric From Machine bed fold it at
3/8 width at bottom end and place this end
under the needle.
Now start Sewing at a margin of from the
folded edge along the required contour.
When sewing make sure that the folding is
done precisely with right hand and the fabric is
guided by right hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain the stitch margin of throughout the folded
edge. No down or dropped stitch allowed during
hemming. Keep the puckering minimal along rounded
edges.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 159
Waste
Re-Use the Fabric in Pick attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Neck Band Hemming.
Ability to maintain equal-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer
Page | 160
14. Sewing with template
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Sewing with Template
Goal: 23 Seconds Exercise Number
CL 07
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric 20 X 5
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the fabric and place it under the
needle and place the template above the
fabric.
Sew Straight along the template
Continue stitching until you reach the other
end of the template where you sew off, cut
the threads.
Now position the fabric such that the other
edge of the template is under the needle and
sew holding the template as shown in figure.
Sew Off at the other end, Trim the thread and
dispose the Fabric.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Sew Straight. Avoid moving the template while sewing.
Page | 161
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other
exercises if possible.
Abilities Developed
Ability to hold template and sew as required.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Template 10 X 3
Page | 162
15. Mock pick stitching
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Pick Stitching.
Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number
CL 08
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric Collars From CL04
Hemmed N/B ply from CL06
20 X 3 for Bottom N/B Ply
PATTERN
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Open the bundle; Place collars and Inside
Collar band ply on Lap, Top C/B on the right
extension.
Pick collar and ply on right extension
simultaneously, align and place on the table.
Pick up second ply on the lap and align with
other two. Now place the template on the top
ply align it with the shape of the collar and
position all the three under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour of the
template.
Sew off at the other end, trim the thread and
dispose the collar.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Collar and template should be aligned properly at the
collar corners. Pattern should not be displaced while
sewing. Stitches should be made exactly along the
contour of the template.
Page | 163
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the end pieces for the mock exercises of center
stitch finish collars.
Abilities Developed
Ability to sew along the curves.
Ability to handle three plies at a time.
Ability to sew using the template.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Neckband plies and ready collar.
Thread trimmer
Template
Page | 164
16. Top stitch handling tree piles
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Top Stitch Handling Three Plies
Goal:13 Seconds Exercise Number
CL 09
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
STEP 1
STEP 2
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up three plies from lap, align and position
under the needle.
Sew straight at a margin of and sew off at
the other edge.
Turn the top and bottom plies downwards at
the joint and crease it along the edge.
Do Top stitch along the joint edge and sew off
at the other end.
Sew at a margin of from one the edge of
the fabric.
Trim the thread and remove the fabric.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seam for the
step 1 exercise. Avoid down stitches for the step 2
exercises.
Page | 165
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the fabric further for PLK01 Exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to hold and sew long seams straight.
Ability to sew top edge stitch using two or more
plies.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
1/16 CR Foot.
Page | 166
17. Mock centre stitch collar
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Centre Stitch Collar
Goal:15 Seconds Exercise Number
CL 10
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the Collar from Table and position the
start point from where the center stitch
begins, under the needle.
Sew straight at a margin of 1/16 from the
joint edge along the seam.
Stop at required point at the other end, trim
the threads and dispose off.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Down Stitches not allowed. Edge stitch must be
uniformly at a margin of 1/16 from the Joint.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the collars for Collar attaches Later. Minimize thread
end wastage.
Abilities developed
Ability to Do Center stitch on Collar.
Page | 167
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars & Thread trimmer
1/16 CR Foot.
Page | 168
18. Mock topstitch collar
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Topstitch Collar
Goal:22 Seconds Exercise Number
CL 04
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Pcs from Collar Run stitch operations to be turned
and used in this exercise.
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the ready collar from Machine bed and
place it under the needle at a distance of
from the edge.
Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of
until you reach from opposite edge
where you stop with the needle down
position.
With the needle down position turn the collar
at w.r.t the other edge and continue
stitching.
Repeat the steps 3 & 4 until you reach the last
edge where you sew off as shown in the
diagram.
With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off
thread and dispose.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Needle
must be in down position while stopped at corners.
Page | 169
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in mock
Pick attach Exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Topstitch Collar Operation.
Ability to stop with needle down
Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars & Trimmer
Page | 170
19. Cuff hem
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Cuff Hem
Goal:
Exercise Number
CF 01
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric 11 x 3.5 Ply
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up 11 x 3.5 ply from machine bed, fold
it by 3/8 and position it under the needle at
from the edge.
Now Start sewing Straight by folding the width
with the right hand and feeding the fabric
forward with left hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. No
Down stitches allowed.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 171
Waste
Ability
Ability to do Cuff Hem Operation.
Necessary material
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
11x 3.5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 172
20. Mock run stitch cuffs
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Run Stitch Cuffs
Goal:
Exercise Number
CF 02
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric 11 x 3.5 Ply
Ready Hemmed Ply
Template
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up 11 x 3.5 ply from machine bed and
another ply from the lap, align and position
them under the needle at from the edge.
Now Place the template over the plies and
start sewing with a back tack, along the
contour of the template.
While sewing hold the Template with Left
hand and handle the plies using right hand.
At the other end sew off with a back tack and
dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain a margin of throughout the seams. Follow
the template precisely at the rounded corners.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 173
Waste
Use these cuffs for Cuff attach Operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Cuff Run stitch Operation
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
11x 3.5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 174
21. Binding operation
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Binding Operation.
Goal:
Exercise Number
SL 01
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric 20 x 5
22 x 2 (Creased)
STEP 1.
STEP 2.
Methodology:
STEP 1.
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup plane ply with left hand from machine
bed and u-ply from right extension
simultaneously.
Align both plies along seam edge and place
them under needle.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
STEP 2.
Pick up the end piece from above, turn and
place the end of folded edge other side under
the needle.
Start sewing straight at an equi-margin from
the folded edge.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Page | 175
Quality
Avoid the visibility of attach stitches.
Avoid down stitches on both faces.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to attach two plies.
Ability to turn and topstitch a fold.
(Binding stitch)
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies & Trimmer
T Guide
Page | 176
22. Binding operation using a folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Binding Operation Using a Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
SL 02
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric 20 x 5
22 x 3
Using a Folder F205
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the facing 22 x 3 from the lap and
feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the
other end and position the fold under the
needle.
Now take 20 x 5 from the pick up bar and
position it in between the facing ply U Fold,
under the needle.
Now start sewing by feeding the Facing
through the folder with right hand and 20 x 5
with the left hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
No Roping allowed.
No Down Stitches allowed.
Page | 177
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the other edge also for binding Attaches.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Binding Seams Using a Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies (20 x 5, 22 x 3)
Trimmer
Folder F205
Page | 178
23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Continuous Slv Placket Attach Using a
Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
SL 03
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut
14 x 3 Ply Cuts
Using a Folder F205
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the facing 14 x 3 from the lap and
feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the
other end and position the fold under the
needle.
Now pick the ready full Sleeve from Pick Up
stand and position cut edge between the
facing ply U Fold, under the needle.
Now start sewing by feeding the Facing
through the folder with right hand and Sleeve
with the left hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
No Roping allowed.
No Down Stitches allowed.
Page | 179
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use these Sleeves for Sleeve Attach Exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to Attach Continuous Sleeve Placket Using a
Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Sleeves & 14 x 3 Plies
Folder F205
Page | 180
24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Split Edge Placket Attach Operation Using
Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
SL 04
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut
7 x 1.5 Ply Cuts
Using a Folder
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the facing 7 x 1.5 from a box under
the Machine and feed it into the Folder, eject it
out from the other end and position the fold
under the needle.
Now pick the Ready full Sleeve from Pick Up
stand and position cut edge between the
facing ply U Fold, under the needle.
Now start sewing by feeding the Facing
through the folder with right hand and Sleeve
with the left hand.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
No Roping allowed.
No Down Stitches allowed.
Page | 181
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use these Sleeves for Sleeve Attach Exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to Attach Split Sleeve Placket to Sleeve Using
a Folder.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Sleeves & 7 x 1.5 Plies
Folder
Page | 182
25. Attach two plies using folder
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Attach Two plies Using Folder.
Goal:
Exercise Number
BK 02
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Body Ply
Yoke Ply
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up one ply from left side of the table and
place it under the needle.
Pick up the second ply from right extension
and feed it into the folder.
Align the two plies and position them under
the needle.
Start sewing by feeding the top ply through
folder with right hand and holding the bottom
ply with left hand. Align both plies while
feeding for stitches.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
If it is plaid fabric maintain the checks
symmetrically throughout the seam length.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Page | 183
Quality
Maintain the checks symmetrically throughout the seam
length. Avoid down stitch while sewing.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to work with folder.
Ability to stitch the straight seams.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder & CL Foot
Page | 184
26. Pleats
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Pleats
Goal:17 Seconds Exercise Number
BK 01
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Target For 5 Pleats.
Fabric 20 x 5 (Notched)
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up the ply from lap and place it on
Machine bed.
Match the first 2 notches with fingers, lift the
presser foot and rest it on the pleat fold with
needle position at desired point of stitch.
Sew the pleat. Match the next notch and
repeat the steps 3 & 4 as many pleats are
there.
Dispose the fabric once all the pleats are sewn.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain pleat depth as required. Sew the pleat within
seam allowance.
Page | 185
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use The Fabric For PLK01 Later.
Abilities Developed
Ability to make Pleats.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20x5 Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 186
27. Mock yoke attach with folder
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Mock yoke Attach with Folder.
Goal:
Exercise Number
BK 03
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric
Backs & Yokes Ready Cutting
Body & Yoke 1
Yoke 2
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up one ply from left side of the table and
second ply from right extension, align and
position under the needle.
Pick up the third ply from the lap and feed it
into the folder.
Align the third ply with other two plies and
position them under the needle.
Start sewing by feeding the top ply through
folder with right hand and holding the bottom
ply with left hand. Align both plies while
feeding for stitches.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
If it is plaid fabric maintain the checks
symmetrically through out the seam length.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain the checks symmetrically through out the
seam length. Avoid down stitch while sewing.
Page | 187
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to do yoke attaches using Folder.
Ability to stitch the straight seams.
Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously while
sewing
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder & 1/ 4 CL Presser Foot
Page | 188
28. Shoulder attach without folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Shoulder Attach Without Folder
Goal:60 Seconds Exercise Number
AS 01
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Backs From Yoke Attach & Fronts From Cutting
STEP 1.
STEP 2.
Methodology:
STEP 1.
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Open the bundle and clamp the pieces to the
sloping table.
Pick Up backs from clamp table and position
top Yoke piece under the needle. Take front
piece from pick up bar right to operator, align
it with yoke edge and place it under needle.
Sew straight and trim threads at the end of
seam (UBT).
Pick up the other front, align with second half
of yoke and position them under Needle.
Sew straight and trim threads at the end of
seam (UBT).
STEP 2.
Now take the Piece out turn the bottom yoke
over the above seam, align the edges and
position under the needle.
Sew straight and trim threads at the end of
seam (UBT).
Repeat steps 6 & 7 for the other front.
Flip over and dispose the garment.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Avoid Collar center off due to uneven seam width at
shoulder.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 189
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do shoulder attach operation in real time.
Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously.
Page | 190
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings
Trimmer
Page | 191
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: 29. Topstitch shoulder
Goal:19 Seconds Exercise Number
AS 02
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric from AS01 Exercise
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Open the bundle and pick the piece with right
hand from center runner and position the
shoulder joint to be topstitched under needle.
The fronts should lie to the right of the seam
and backs to the left on machine bed as shown
in figure.
Hold and feed the garment with the palms of
both hands resting and then moving parallel
on either side of seam.
Sew off and trim threads at the shoulder end
(UBT) and position the next shoulder under
the needle.
Repeat step 4 and dispose to left of
workstation.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
No Down Stitches while sewing.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 192
WASTE
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to topstitch shoulder on DNLS.
Ability to handle larger parts.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Front & Back attached pieces.
Page | 193
30. Shoulder attach using folder
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Shoulder Attach Using Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 03
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Methodology:
STEP 1.
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Open the bundle and clamp the backs to the
sloping table. Place left front on pick up bar
and right fronts on the lap.
Pick Up back from clamp table, left front from
the pickup bar simultaneously.
Feed the bottom yoke into the folder and
then place left front over it.
Feed the top Yoke into the folder align the
three plies along the seam edge and position
then Under presser foot.
Sew straight by feeding bottom yoke and front
with right hand and top yoke with the left
hand.
Sew off and trim at the shoulder end (UBT).
Now Pick up the right front from the lap and
repeat the steps 4, 5, 6 & 7.
Flip over for waterfall disposal.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Avoid Collar center off due to uneven seam width at
shoulder.
No down stitches while sewing.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 194
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do shoulder attach operation in real time.
Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously.
Ability to work with Folder.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings
Folder & CL Presser foot.
Clamped Sloping Table
Page | 195
31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Sew Contour Fabric to straight Fabric.
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 04
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Use Prepared Fabric & Contour Cut fabric for this
Exercise
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup Contour fabric with left hand from
machine bed and straight ply with right hand
from right extension simultaneously.
Align the ends of both plies and position them
under needle.
Match and hold the first notch and sew along
the contour by aligning them.
Stop the needle and repeat the step 4 until
you reach the other end.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Notches must be matched and plies to be aligned
correctly along the edge.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 196
Waste
Use the same fabric for Collar closing operation.
Abilities Developed
Ability to Sew along contour without stretch.
Ability to sew in 2-3 bursts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Page | 197
32. Mock collar attach
Machine: SNLS / UBT
Exercise: Mock Collar Attach
Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number
AS 05
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Ready Collar
Ready Body
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the body from left and collar from right
extension simultaneously.
Position neck of body under needle and then
place and align collar over neck of body under
the needle.
Match and hold the first notch and sew along
the contour by aligning them.
Stop the needle and repeat the step 4 until
you reach the other end.
Sew off at the other end, trim threads (UBT)
and dispose over center runner to the right.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Notches must be matched and plies to be aligned
correctly along the edge.
Page | 198
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Collar attach Operation.
Ability to handle one each of small and larger parts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars and bodies.
Page | 199
33. Binding operations
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Binding Operations.
Goal:30 Seconds Exercise Number
AS 06
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Methodology:
STEP 1.
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup plane ply with left hand from machine
bed and u-ply from right extension
simultaneously.
Align both plies along seam edge and place
them under needle.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
STEP 2.
Pick up the end piece from above, turn and
place the end of folded edge other side under
the needle.
Start sewing straight at an equi-margin from
the folded edge.
Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Page | 200
Quality
Avoid the visibility of attach stitches.
Avoid down stitches on both faces.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Abilities Developed
Ability to attach two plies.
Ability to turn and topstitch a fold.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies.
Page | 201
34. Mock collar finish
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Collar Finish
Goal:50 Seconds Exercise Number
AS 07
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Pcs From Mock Collar Attach
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the body from center runner to right of
workstation and position the Pick area under
needle.
Start Sewing along the pick edge and at the
corner stop the needle insert body correctly
and start sewing to other pick end.
While sewing hold the collar pick fold with
right hand and feed the body with left hand.
Before reaching the other end of pick stop the
needle align collar and body and then sew
along pick edge.
Trim threads at the end (UBT) and dispose on
Left bar.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Collar stay stitch should not be visible.
Avoid down stitches.
Ply 1
Ply 2
Stitches
Page | 202
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities
Ability to do topstitch collar operation.
Ability to handle larger parts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar attached.
Page | 203
35. Lap seam along contour
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Lap Seam along Contour
Goal:35 Seconds Exercise Number
AS 08
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup armhole contoured ply from machine
bed with left hand and the sleeve ply from
right extension simultaneously.
Place the body ply under the presser foot.
Take the sleeve ply and place it at a distance
3/8 margin from the body ply seam edge.
Now fold the bigger ply edge over the smaller
ply and position under the needle.
Match the notches on both plies, align the
plies and Start sewing straight while folding
the body ply edge with left hand and feeding
the sleeve ply with right hand. Continue this
step until you finish stitching at the other end.
Sew off at the end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Page | 204
Quality
Maintain the equal fold edge throughout seam. Avoid
drop stitches.
Match the notches exactly.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Uses the same fabrics for topstitch sleeve operation
exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do lap seam along the contour. Useful
while doing sleeve attach operations.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock plies as shown in figure.
Page | 205
36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam)
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Sleeve Attach Operation
(Lap Seam)
Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number
AS 09
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Sleeves ready cut
Body from Collar attach Operation
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup body from rack to left of WS and
position the armhole end under the presser
foot.
Now pickup the sleeve from the rack also with
left hand and align with the armhole and
position at a distance of 3/8 from the edge of
armhole.
Now fold the armhole edge over the sleeve
and position under the needle.
Match the notches on both armhole and
sleeve, align them and Start sewing straight
while folding the body edge with left hand and
feeding the sleeve with right hand. Continue
this step until you finish stitching at the other
end.
Sew off and trim the threads at the end (UBT)
and dispose to bar on right.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches while sewing.
Page | 206
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to attach sleeves to body.
Ability to handle bigger parts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready bodies & Sleeves.
Page | 207
37. Lap seam along contour using folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Lap Seam along Contour using folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 10
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
USING FOLDER
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup armhole contoured ply from machine
bed with left hand and the sleeve ply from
right extension simultaneously.
Place the body ply through folder and position
under the presser foot. Take the sleeve ply and
place it on the body ply through the lap fold.
Match the notches on both plies, align the
plies and Start sewing straight while holding
the body ply edge with left hand and feeding
the sleeve ply with right hand.
Continue the above step until you finish
stitching at the other end.
Sew off at the end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain the equal fold edge throughout seam. Avoid
drop stitches.
Match the notches exactly.
Page | 208
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Uses the same fabrics for topstitch sleeve operation
exercise.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do lap seam along the contour. Useful
while doing sleeve attach operations.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 plies as shown in figure.
Folder
Page | 209
38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Mock Sleeve Attach Operation
(Lap Seam) with Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 11
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup body from rack to left of WS, pass it
through folder and position the armhole end
under the presser foot.
Now pickup the sleeve from the rack also with
left hand and place it on armhole inside the
fold.
Match the notches on both armhole and
sleeve, align them and Start sewing straight
while holding the body edge with left hand
and feeding the sleeve with right hand.
Continue this step until you finish stitching at
the other end.
Sew off and trim the threads at the end (UBT)
and dispose to bar on right.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches while sewing.
Page | 210
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to attach sleeves to body.
Ability to handle bigger parts.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready bodies & Sleeves.
Folder
Page | 211
39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Topstitch along contour over lap seam.
Goal:
15 Sec
Exercise Number
AS 12
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the piece from the pickup bar left to
WS and position the end of armhole joint
under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour following the
margin with both the palms on either side
guiding the stitch.
Sew off at the end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent
margin from the edge.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Page | 212
Abilities Developed
Ability to do topstitches along contour with DNLS.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready piece as shown in figure.
Page | 213
40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Topstitch along contour over lap seam using
Folder.
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 13
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the piece from the pickup bar left to
WS and pass the end of armhole joint through
folder and position the end under the needle.
Start sewing along the contour following the
margin with both the palms on either side
guiding the stitch.
Sew off at the end and dispose in chain.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent
margin from the edge.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Page | 214
Waste
Abilities developed
Ability to do topstitches along contour with DNLS.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready piece as shown in figure.
Folder & CR presser foot.
Page | 215
41. Topstitch sleeve attach
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Topstitch Sleeve attach
Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number AS 14
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick up the piece from pickup bar or haunch
back to the left of operator and position the
area to be topstitched under the needle with
sleeve extending to right as shown in figure.
Start sewing along the sleeve edge following
the margin with both palms on either side
guiding the stitch.
At the end of the seam cut the threads (UBT).
Remove the piece and position the other
armhole area under the needle as explained in
step 2.
Repeat the step 3 and 4 and dispose the piece
to the center runner.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent
margin from the edge. Follow line balancing if any.
Page | 216
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities developed
Ability to do Topstitches with DNLS.
Ability to handle whole garment.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached.
Page | 217
42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder
Machine: DNLS
Exercise: Topstitch Sleeve attach using Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number AS 15
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Using folder
Methodology:
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick up the piece from pickup bar or haunch
back to the left of operator and pass the area
to be topstitched through the folder and
position the end under the needle with sleeve
extending to right as shown in figure.
Start sewing along the sleeve edge following
the margin with both palms on either side
guiding the stitch.
At the end of the seam cut the threads (UBT).
Remove the piece and position the other
armhole area under the needle as explained in
step 2.
Repeat the step 3 and 4 and dispose the piece
to the center runner.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent
margin from the edge. Follow line balancing if any.
Page | 218
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises.
Abilities Developed
Ability to do Topstitches with DNLS.
Ability to handle whole garment.
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached.
Folder & CR foot.
Page | 219
43. Hemming long contours (Curved)
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Hemming Long Contours. (Curved)
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 19
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Methodology
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left
to the Operator and place it on table. Fold
3/8at the rounded Corner (Turn & Turn) and
position it under needle.
Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90
degrees with needle down Position and Start
Sewing along the contour by folding the width
with the right hand and guiding the piece
along using left hand.
At the other end turn the fabric again by 90
degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the disposal
bar or center runner.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain the uniform folded width of 3/8 along the
contour. Roping must not be there along the seam.
No Down stitches allowed.
Page | 220
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for Straight Bottom Hem.
Abilities Developed
Ability to hem Rounded edges.
Ability to handle large garments while
manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
Page | 221
44. Long straight hemming
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Long Straight Hemming
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 20
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Methodology
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left
to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1at
the (Turn & Turn) and position it under
needle.
Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90
degrees with needle down Position and Start
Sewing along the edge by folding the width
with the right hand and guiding the piece
along using left hand.
At the other end turn the fabric again by 90
degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal
Bar or Center runner.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain the uniform folded width of 1 along the
contour. Roping must not be there along the seam.
No Down stitches allowed.
Page | 222
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for Curved Bottom Hem at the
opposite edge if not done.
Abilities Developed
Ability to Fold (Turn & Turn) and hem for
longer seams.
Ability to handle large garments while
manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
T- Guide & 1/16 CL Presser Foot
Page | 223
45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Hemming Long Contours. (Curved) Using
Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number AS 21
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Using Folder
Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Methodology
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left
to the Operator and place it on table. Fold
3/8at the rounded Corner (Turn & Turn) and
position it under needle.
Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90
degrees with needle down Position, Set the
folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded
into it.
Start Sewing along the contour by feeding the
folded width with the right hand and guiding
the piece along using left hand.
At the other end, remove the folder, turn the
fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the disposal
bar or center runner.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain the uniform folded width of 3/8 along the
contour. Roping must not be there along the seam.
No Down stitches allowed.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for Straight Bottom Hem.
Page | 224
Abilities Developed
Ability to hem Rounded edges.
Ability to handle large garments while
manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
1/16 CL Foot & Folder F503
Magnetic guide
Page | 225
46. Long straight hemming using folder
Machine: SNLS
Exercise: Long Straight Hemming using Folder
Goal:
Exercise Number
AS 22
Starting Position:
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Illustration:
Operation Using Folder
Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
Methodology
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left
to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1at
the (Turn & Turn) and position it under
needle.
Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90
degrees with needle down Position, set the
folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded
into it.
Start Sewing along the edge by feeding the
folded width with the right hand and guiding
the piece along using left hand.
At the other end, Remove the Folder, turn the
fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal
Bar or Center runner.
Security
The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with
the needle.
Use Safety glasses.
Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair.
Quality
Maintain the uniform folded width of 1 along the
contour. Roping must not be there along the seam.
No Down stitches allowed.
Ergonomics
Chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Back Rest Facing Forward.
Waste
Use the same fabric for Curved Bottom Hem at the
opposite edge if not done.
Page | 226
Abilities Developed
Ability to Fold (Turn & Turn) and hem for
longer seams.
Ability to handle large garments while
manually folding the hem.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
T- Guide & 1/16 CL Presser Foot
Folder F505
Page | 227
CHAPTER - XII
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE
Page | 228
Type of Attachments
1. Various Collar Operations
Hems the collar band before it is attached to the
collar Please specify hem size and stitch margin.
We recommend an edge guide foot to maintain
proper margins
Foot and Guide assist in turning and top
stitching front and back collar bands after they
have been sewn to the collar.
Produces a consistent stitch margin along the
bead.
Page | 229
2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining:
Used to attach the yoke to the front and back panels of the shirt.
Both folders can be made left or right.
This folder turn down the top ply and joins it
to two additional plys. The bottom ply is then
turned back to form the yoke. Special foot is
recommended.
Foot and Guide assist in turning and top
stitching front and back collar bands after they
have been sewn to the collar. Produces a
consistent stitch margin along the bead.
Page | 230
3. Pocket Hemming
This attachment is used to hem the tops of pockets. Many different folder styles are available to suit
your particular need.
Please specify finished size, stitch margin, and the amount of in tuck required.
Special presser foot recommended.
Page | 231
4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve
In addition to the plain hemmer, a variety of folders are available for finishing short sleeves. Two of
the most popular are illustrated below.
These folders may also be used to hem the tops of pockets
5. Tail Hemming
No. 209 The #209 hinged foot hemmer is available in a 3/16" finish. The hinged
feature allows for some give as you cross over the side seam.
No. 209A Foot Hemmer is also available with AIR JET, which helps eliminate loose
thread strands.
No. 210 The swing hemmer is used for straighter runs and is available with a spring
for side seams. The swing out bracket is recommended for easy finishing.
Special presser foot recommended.
Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts.
May be used on lockstitch or chainstitch
machines. Stripes and plaids are easily matched.
Piping and other types of trim may also be
added.
Special edge guide foot is recommended.
Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts.
Must be used on lockstitch machines.
Special foot is recommended.
Page | 232
Page | 233
6. Button Stay Hemming
No. 211 Upturned hemmer with lining for use on lockstitch machines. Various
styles are available with or without lining. Special presser foot
recommended.
No. 211A Downturned hemmer for use on chainstitch machines. Special presser
foot recommended.
No. 211B This picture illustrates a button stay hemmer with a separate strip added
underneath. Bottom stripper available with or without lining. Used on
double needle chainstitch machines.
Page | 234
7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve
For use on lockstitch machines with lining and
face goods in short pieces.
Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size
lining and face goods.
Please specify hem size and stitch margin.
Special presser foot is recommended.
For use on chainstitch machines with lining in rolls
and face goods in pieces or rolls.
Hemmer is adjustable to accommodate different size
lining and face goods.
Please specify hem size and stitch margin. Special
presser is recommended.
Page | 235
8. Setting Sleeve Plackets
Used to sew a continuous facing around the
sleeve opening.
Folder is designed for easy loading of short
pieces. Edge guide foot is recommended.
Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on
the sleeve opening.
Folders are available in top and bottom sets when cut
sizes of top and bottom placket strips are different.
Edge guide foot is recommended.
9. Closing Side Seams
Lap Seam Folders
Lap seam folders are used to close side seams.
Folder available with separate width adjustment. Lap seam folder can also be made with a spring
release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely.
Please specify make and gauge of machine and send material with a sample of the sleeve seams.
Page | 236
10. Sleeve Setting
There are two types of variations for the Sleeve Setting
Single Needle Sleeving
Set of guides for joining the armhole to the sleeve
on high quality shirts.
Adjustable margin settings. Special presser foot is
recommended.
Turns the sleeve up as the body is pulled over and stitched
down.
Produces a quality finish and appearance. Special presser
foot is recommended.
Page | 237
Imitation Single Needle Sleeving
Folder hems the sleeve and joins it to the body, using a double needle machine.
Compensating Foot is used on second top stitching operation.
11. Attach Center Placket
Top Center Folder
Attaches the center plait to the shirt body. Folder features a separate concave lining track which
allows easier starts for all types of fabrics and a tight finish around the lining.
Bed plate mount or swing bracket mount is available. Body hemmer provided with folder.
Please specify: men or ladies' shirt-lining from right or left.
Page | 238
Used to make a one piece shirt front by hemming the shirt body itself.
Folder features a separate concave lining track which helps produce a tight finish.
Available in left hand (ladies'-neck start) and right hand (men's-neck start) models.
Used to eliminate shading problems and to match stripes and plaids.
Please Specify: man's or ladies' shirt-lining from right or left.
A variation of the imitation Center Front Folder for use on Men's and ladies' sport shirts.
The top of the front conceals the button hole which is sewn on the bottom tuck.
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Attach Center Placket
(Horn Style Placket Folder)
Sometimes referred to as "Horn Type Top Center" or "Wrap Folder".
Used to sew a front, primarily on ladies' dress shirts and "pullover" type sport shirts.
Available with or without lining. Material generally cut in short pieces, but can also be cut in rolls.
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Attach Center Placket
(French Front Folder)
Generally used on first quality men's shirts. Available for single and double needle machines.
Available with or without lining.
Attach Center Placket
Plastic Presser Foot
Clear plastic feet are used in conjunction
with the center front operation.
The transparent feature allows the
operator to match stripes and plaids
more easily. Available for most multi-
needle machines.
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Attach Center Placket
Top Center with Double Lining Track
Allows use of either single ply or full wrap lining.
Available for bed plate mount or swing up mount.
12. Pleat Gauge
Pleat Gauge
Used for decorative trim on shirt pockets, as wella s back and front body pleats.
Made for most double needle machines.
Face goods may be in pieces or rolls - lining must be in rolls. Several pleat styles are available.
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CHAPTER XIII
MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME
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Name: Starting Date:
Prior experience (Operations): Ending Date:
Trainers Name:
Sl.
No.
Target
Day
Name
Start
Date
End
Date
Target
2
nd
best
time
Remarks
1 Simult-
aneous
Pin Board (RH) 45 sec
2 Pin Board (LH) 90 sec
3
2
Pedal control at max speed (Pe1) 6 sec
4 Precise stops at max speed (Pe2) 5 sec
5 3 Straight stitches at max speed (Pe3) 10 sec
6 4 Change direction with needle down (Pe4) 8 sec
7 5 Judging changes of direction (Pe5) 16 sec
8 5.5 Swing curve with one hand (Pe6) 6 sec
9 6.5 Swing in circles (Pe7) 34 sec
10 7 Swing curves (Pe8) 5 sec
11
8.5
OL Swing straight line (Pe9) 10 sec
12 OL exact stop (Pe10) 20 sec
13 OL Straight lines and curves (Pe11) 15 sec
14
P
a
r
a
l
l
e
l
w
i
t
h
F
E
E
x
e
r
c
i
s
e
Cleaning machine (Me0) 35 sec
15 Threading machine (Me1) 40 sec
16 Re threading machine (Me2) 8 sec
17 Changing bobbin (Me3) 12 sec
18 Changing needle (Me4) 8 sec
19 Changing colour of thread (Me5) 25 sec
20 10 Sew endless loop (Fe0)
21 Sew 6 x 6, sewing off (Fe1) 15 sec
22 11 Sew 6 x 6, Staying within (Fe2) 18 sec
23 Sew 6 x 6, Back tack (Fe3) 21 sec
24 12 Sew 3 sides 6 x 12 (Fe4) 21 sec
25 12 x 6, Top stitch (Fe5) 14 sec
26 13 Back tack 12 x 12, (Fe6) 20 sec
27 14 Hemming 6x6 in chain (5 pcs)(Fe7) 30 sec
28 15 Attach Pocket (Fe8) 45 sec
29 16 Cuff Run stitch 45 sec
30 16 Cuff top stitch 33 sec
31 17 Collar Run stitch 35 sec
32 18 Collar top stitch 29 sec
33 19 Collar pick ready 60 sec
34 20 Sleeve Plackets attach 51 sec
35 21 Sleeve Plackets finishing 120 sec
36 23 Back yoke attach & Edge stitch 60 sec
37 24 Shoulder attach &Edge stitch 60 sec
38 25 Collar attaching & finishing 81 sec
39 27 Side seam attach 120 sec
40 28 Bottom hemming 50 sec
41 29 Sleeve attaching 39 sec
42 30 Sleeve Finishing 45 sec