Master Gardeners at Mesilla Valley Bosque, Doña Ana County, Arizona, Use Groasis Waterboxx To Save Water

2
Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine

Doa Ana County Cooperative Extension Office
530 North Church Street, Las Cruces, NM 88001
Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652
MG Program Administrator: Jeff Anderson
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Magazines can be downloaded at the NMSU website:
http://aces.nmsu.edu/damg
!
Doa Ana County

U.S. Department of Agriculture
NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer and
Environmental Sciences!
!!!!!
!AUGUST 2014 !
Vol. 15, Issue 8
Plant-of-the-Month
Contents:
Plant of the Month: Quaking Aspen Tree
Water-Wise Plant of the Month:
--Blue Chalk Plants
Page
1-3
5-6
Raising Shasta Daisies

Care & Maintenance of Shastas
7-8
8
Wildlife Friendly Vegetable Gardener (Book)
Did You Know? All About Ducks

Sustainability & Golf
9-10
August MG Birthdays
Thanks for the Goodies
Timeline for September 2014 Magazine Info
MG Contact Information: Keep Current
Reminder: Monthly MG Meeting
Got Ideas? (For MG Magazine)
Save the Date Contacts
West Nile Virus: Info For New Mexico
11
11
11
11
11
11
11
12-13
13
14-17
Our Lords Candle Yucca
17
Rangeland Grasses:
Halls Panicgrass
Vine Mesquite
18
18
Invasive/Noxious Weeds: Alfombrilla
19
Vegetable & Fruit Articles

Okra Lovers Unite!
Dry Your Own Herbs
Using Dried Herbs To Make Flavored Oils
Growing Heirloom Squash
Easy Ways To Keep Melons Pest-Free
20
21
21
22
23
MG Monthly Meeting Minutes
24-25
MG Hotline Duty Information
25
(Populus tremuloides)
Quaking Aspen is the most widely
distributed native tree in North
America. Its name refers to the
leaves, which tremble in the slightest
breeze. Often, the Aspen can be
confused with the birch tree that has a
similar looking bark.
Aspen is common in the higher
mountains of the western two-thirds of
New Mexico. It is a member of the
Salicaceae or Willow family.
4&6
Five Tips For Growing Succulents
August Honey-Do List
QUAKING ASPEN
Aspen is common on all aspects in the western mountains of the U.S. and grows well
wherever soil moisture is not limited. However, the best stands in the Southwest are more
frequently found on the northerly slopes where more favorable moisture conditions prevail.
Aspen is a small to medium-sized tree that won't overwhelm smaller yards so typical of
today's urban subdivisions. However, while it grows fast and provides your landscape with
an early-finished look, Aspen is affected by numerous insects, diseases and cultural
problems.
Aspens best features are that it has attractive bark, its leaves tremble in the slightest
breeze and it can develop good fall foliage color. Aspens are often located on burned
areas and serve as a nurse crop to conifers that eventually replace them. These trees
spread readily from suckers
and root sprouts; and, in fact, a grove of Aspens in Utah is
T
the largest known living organism on Earth, covering thousands of acres.
Quaking Aspens are often confused with birch trees. Although Aspen are somewhat
similar in appearance to some species of birch, birch trees belong to an entirely different
family of trees. Birch plants are famous for having bark that peels back like paperAspen
bark does not peel! While Aspen leaves are perfectly flat, birch leaves are slightly "V"
shaped and more elongated than Quaking Aspen leaves.
Article Continues on Page 2
Master Gardener Hotline Contact Data

(July 1 to July 31, 2014)
# Total Contacts
31
# Telephone Calls
31
# Emails
0
# Issues Addressed 56
Ethnicity of Contacts
Asian Male
0
Hispanic Females
4
Hispanic Males
8
Non-Hispanic Females 12
Non-Hispanic Males
7
Geographic
Las Cruces
Doa Ana
Fairacres
Mesilla
Area
26
2
1
2
Subject of Inquiry
Animals/Wildlife 1
Disease
1
Fertilizer
1
Flowers
0
Herbicides
0
Insecticides
0
Insects
17
Irrigation
7
Lawns
Shrubs
Soil
Trees
Veggies
Weeds
Misc.
Arsenic
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doa Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.!
2
5
7
11
1
1
2
Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014
Page 2
Quaking AspenContinued from Front Page
Quaking Aspen Tree FACTS

Aspen Leaves
Aspen Drooping Catkins
INTERESTING INFORMATION ABOUT ASPENS:

All of the Aspens typically grow in large clonal colonies,
derived from a single seedling that spreads by means of root
suckers. New stems in the colony may appear at up to 98131 feet
from the parent tree. Each individual tree can live for 40150 years
above ground, but the root system of the colony is long-lived. In
some cases, this is for thousands of years, sending up new trunks
as the older trunks die off above ground. One such colony in Utah,
given the nickname of "Pando", is estimated to be 80,000 years
old, making it possibly the oldest living colony of Aspens. Some
Aspen colonies become very large over time, spreading about
3.3 feet per year, eventually covering many acres. These plants
are able to survive forest fires, because the roots are below the
heat of the fire, with new sprouts growing after the fire burns out.
The white bark of the Aspen is one identifying characteristic of
this tree, but the bark is special for more reasons than just its
unique appearance. The bark layer of Quaking Aspens carries out
photosynthesis, a task usually reserved for tree leaves. In winter,
when other deciduous trees are mostly dormant, Quaking Aspens
are able to keep producing sugar for energy.
Quaking Aspen grows on many soil types, especially sandy and
gravelly slopes, and it is quick to generate in disturbed sites where
there is bare soil. This fast-growing tree is short-lived and pure
stands are gradually replaced by slower-growing species.
Aspen stands are preferred cover for deer and elk and
contribute feed to these animals and also to squirrels, rabbits,
beaver, and other mammals. Deer, moose, and elk seek shade
from Aspen groves in summer. These same animals consume
bark, leaves, buds, and twigs of Quaking Aspen throughout the
year. Ruffed grouse is especially dependent on this plant for food
and nesting habitat. Aspen is also the tree of choice for the
European beaver.
Quaking Aspen wood is white and soft, but fairly strong,
and has low flammability, which makes it safer to use than
most other woods. Its used to make paper, particle board,
furniture, and hamster bedding. Because of its low flammability,
it is also used for making matches and paper. Shredded Aspen
wood is used for packing and stuffing, sometimes called
excelsior (wood wool).
Family:
Salicaceae (Willow Family)
Botanical Name: Populus tremuloides
Other Names:
Trembling aspen, Golden aspen, Mountain aspen, Popple,
Poplar, Trembling poplar
Description:
A small to medium-sized tree with attractive white bark; its
leaves tremble in the slightest breeze; tree has good fall foliage color.
Elevation:
Grows in Rocky Mountains south to New Mexico, 6,500 to
10,000 feet
Hardiness:
Zones 3-8 but only where summers are not too hot, and
usually requires sharply cold winters to grow best.
Habitat & Range: Most widely distributed tree species in North America. It
grows in Alaska and Canada and south to Mexico. It withstands such a wide
range in climatic conditions by growing at lower altitudes in the north and higher
altitudes in the south. Conspicuously absent from the U.S. Southeast, because
there are no high elevation mountains to act as habitat.
Height & Width: 40 feet to 70 feet, but rarely taller than 50 feet, and seldom
more than 20 inches in diameter. Space at 20-30 ft. wide.
Growth Rate:
A fast-growing, tough tree, requiring little maintenance.
Fruit:
1/4-inch long; narrowly conical, light green capsules in
drooping catkins (capsules). In midsummer, capsules burst open and release
extremely light, cottony seeds that are easily wind-borne. However, seeds are
rarely produced in the West, where propagation is primarily by root sprouts.
Seeds:
Good seed crops produced every 4-5 years, with light crops
in most intervening years. Some open-grown clones may produce seeds
annually, beginning at age 2 or 3. The minimum age for large seed crops is 10 to
20; the optimum is 50 to 70. Seeds are very light, 5,500 to 8,000 clean seeds per
gram (156,000 to 250,000/oz).
Leaves:
Broad, nearly round, leaves (1-3) with pointed apex, and
finely serrated edges, which are attached to the limbs with a flattened petiole or
stem. Leaves shiny green above, dull green beneath, and turn golden yellow in
fall.
Bark:
Almost white, smooth, and thin (See photo above.)
Wood:
Aspen wood is white and soft, but fairly strong, and has low
flammability. It is also a popular animal bedding, since it lacks the phenols
associated with pine and juniper, which are thought to cause respiratory system
ailments in some animals. Heat-treated Aspen is a popular material for the
interiors of a sauna. Used as thin roofing slats in Russia.
Roots:
Seedlings initially have a short taproot, but a heart root
system develops on deep, well-drained soils. If rooting depth is restricted, a flat
root system develops regardless of regeneration origin
Sun Exposure: Full sun; seedlings growth impeded by shade.
Soil Needs:
Grows in many soil types, esp. sandy and gravelly slopes.
Watering Needs: Once established, can grow well in semi-arid conditions.
Propagation:
Aspen reproduce not only by seed but also by extensive
suckering. An Aspen grove starts as suckers shoot off the roots of a mother tree,
which arrived at the site by seed. This suckering habit can be a nuisance in the
urban landscape, coming up in lawns and gardens.
Pests/Disease:
Aspen is susceptible to a large number of diseases.
Wildlife:
Provides food and shelter to a wide variety of animals.

Quaking AspenContinued from Page 2
Interesting Features of Quaking Aspen (Continued From Page 2):
Aspen wood is also a popular animal bedding, since it lacks the
phenols associated with pine and juniper, which are thought to cause
respiratory system ailments in some animals. Heat-treated Aspen makes
particularly good sauna benches and playground structures because the
wood surface does not splinter.
While standing trees sometimes tend to rot from the heart outward, the
dry timber of Aspens weathers very well, becoming silvery-grey and
resistant to rotting and warping, and has traditionally been used for rural
construction in the northwestern regions of Russia (especially for roofing,
in the form of thin slats).
Quaking Aspen are virtually impossible to kill. Individual stems can
be destroyed by humans, wildlife, and disease, but the below ground root
system is resistant to almost all of these factors. Pocket gophers, which
feed on roots, seem to be one of the few creatures able to curtail the
growth of Aspen groves.
The other major inhibitor of Aspen growth is fire suppression.
Quaking Aspens require intense sunlight to grow, but when other trees
spring up in the forest, aspen stems are shaded out. Fire reduces canopy
cover and allows for the continued growth of quaking aspens. While the
root system will survive with little care, proper management of the stems
aboveground is important, since both people and wildlife make use of the
trees. (Source: Quaking Aspen, by D.A. Perala on USDA Plant
Database)
Aspen reproduce not only by seed but also by extensive suckering.
An Aspen grove starts as suckers shoot off the roots of a mother tree,
which arrived at the site by seed. This suckering habit can be a nuisance
in the urban landscape, coming up in lawns and gardens.
Aspens are short-lived trees, as expected from their role in forest
ecology. In the urban landscape, even properly cared-for Aspen may not
reach 20 years.
Life spans can be shortened further by one or more of several
insects or diseases that attack Aspen. Fungal diseases, such as
Cytospora or other cankers, which attack the trunk, are common, as are
diseases of the foliage such as rusts, or leaf spots. Of the many insects
that attack urban plantings of Aspen, oystershell scale, aphids and
Aspen twiggall fly are most prevalent. (For in-depth information about
Aspen disease and pests, refer to Quaking Aspen, by D.A. Perala on
USDA Plant Database.)
Despite the abundance of Aspen seed and its high germinative capacity,
few Aspen seedlings survive in nature because of the short period of
seed viability, unfavorable moisture during seed dispersal, high soil
surface temperatures, fungi, adverse diurnal temperature fluctuations
during initial seedling growth, and the unfavorable chemical balance of
some seedbeds.
Aspen plants produce tissue that emits chemicals toxic to most
insect pests, but beetle borers and caterpillars still occasionally attack
Quaking Aspens. (For more information on how to deal with these pests,
please refer to Insects on Quaking Aspens by Cat Carson on SF Gate.)
Page 3
Aspen forests allow more water or ground water recharge
and streamflow than do conifer forests. This is primarily due
to lower seasonal water losses to interception and transpiration
by Aspen compared to conifers. Clearcutting the Aspen type
may increase streamflow by as much as 60 percent during the
first year. Subsequently, water yields gradually decline to
preharvest levels and stabilize when maximum leaf area is
attained at about age 10 to 25.
SUMMARY: With silvery spring catkins, brilliant fall foliage and
striking bark that stands out in winter, the Quaking Aspen can add
year-round color and interest to home landscapes. However, most
horticulturists do not recommend planting Quaking Aspen in your
urban yard because Aspens are short-lived trees, and even
properly cared-for Aspen may not reach 20 years. Aspens life
spans can be shortened further by one or more of several insects
or diseases that attack this plant.
Within the larger context, Aspens play a very important
conservation role with its dense forest colonies that provide shelter
and food for many animals and for its role in fire suppression.!
QUAKING ASPEN TREE

Article References
Aspen Can Be A Troublesome Tree by Robert Cox, Horticulture

Agent, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension, at
link:
http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/4DMG/Trees/aspenc
an.htm
Aspen on Wikipedia at link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspen
Aspen, Quaking on ArborDay.org at link:
http://www.arborday.org/treeguide/treeDetail.cfm?ID=122
Insects on Quaking Aspens by Cat Carson on SF Gate Home
Guides at link: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/insects-quakingaspens-76990.html
Quaking Aspen by D.A. Perala on USDA Plant Database at link:
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/pubs/silvics_manual/volume_2/populu
s/tremuloides.htm
Quaking Aspen on National Park Service at link:
http://www.nps.gov/brca/naturescience/quakingaspen.htm
Quaking Aspen on National Wildlife Federation at link:
http://www.nwf.org/wildlife/wildlife-library/plants/quakingaspen.aspx
Quaking Aspen Tree on Tree New Mexico at link:
http://www.treenm.com/nm-tree-species/quaking-aspen/
Water-Wise Plant of the Month
BLUE CHALK PLANTS

Description:
An attractive, easy-care succulent with fleshy, chalky blue-green fingershaped leaves. (Editors Note: There seems to be some confusion in the
literature about what species this plant is. I saw it referred to as Senecio
serpens, and Senecio mandrailiscae and both referred to the Blue Chalk
plant. An explanation might be that Serpens is a tinier, more tidy plant of
this family, while Mandrailiscae, also referred to Senecio talinoides grows
much larger and is faster growing.)
The Blue Chalk Plant is a member of the daisy family, Asteraceae. This
plant looks like a scrawny, thornless cactus with multiple stems, sometimes called "blue fingers." Native to South Africa, it has finger-like or sticklike succulent leaves with a gray to pale steel blue color. In summer, the
Sticks plant produces tiny yellow-tufted flowers that look like miniature
dandelions (see photo below). These flowers distinguish it from the closely
resembling but white-flowering Senecio serpens, called Blue Chalk
Fingers.
Important: This plant is poisonous if ingested.
Senecio serpens (w/white-tufted flowers)
Senecio mandrailiscae or talinoides (w/yellow-tufted flowers)
WATER-WISE PLANT OF THE MONTH!
Family:
Species:
Page 4
PLANT FACTS
Asteraceae (Daisy Family)

! Blue Chalk Sticks (Senecio mandrailiscae or
talinoides) (relatively short, compact and extremely
pale blue tubular leaves).
! Blue Chalk Fingers (Senecio serpens)
(Easy-care plant with fleshy, chalky blue-green fingershaped leaves.)
Origin:
South Africa
Type:
Ground cover cacti and succulents
Habit:
Multiple-stemmed fleshy tubular leaves
Size:
At maturity, Sticks can reach height of 12-18 inches with
a spread of 2-3 feet; Fingers is tinier and smaller.
Color:
Silver gray to pale steel blue
Sun:
Likes heat and full sun; needs 8 hours of sun daily; too
little light results causes weak, elongated leaves and
stems of green rather than blue-gray. In hot desert areas
with low humidity provide afternoon shade.
Hardiness: USDA Zones 8 to 11. In cooler climates, grow plant
indoors. Does not tolerate extended temps over 100F.
In hot, dry conditions, plants leaf tips will turn purplish.
Bloom:
Blooms repeatedly
Soil:
7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline); also can handle a neutral
range of pH (6.0 to 7.0)
Water:
Make sure soil is on sandy side and well-draining; plant
will rot if left damp so do not leave soil wet for prolonged
periods. Established plants are extremely droughttolerant.
Pruning:
In very early spring, plant can be pruned back to where
its stem is firm. You can root the cuttings.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize once every two to four weeks during spring and
summernever in winter, using a fertilizer formulated for
cacti and succulents. Alternatively, use a fertilizer
formulated for tomatoes. Apply fertilizer at a rate of only
one-quarter to one-half that recommended on the
container. Too much fertilizer causes leggy, floppy
growth.
Propagation: Can be grown from seed or cuttings. Seeds prefer warm
temps around 55F and constant moisture to germinate.
Uses:
Edging, border, ground cover, mass or drifts, dry
perennial, rock gardens, and dry streambed gardens.
Containers: Plants growing in movable patio containers or houseplant
pots should be moved outdoors in late spring when no danger of frost
exists. Bring them back indoors well before fall frost threatens. Prune
stems as needed to rejuvenate, and repot plants in spring, retaining old
plants or starting new stem cuttings in the warm, damp, sandy potting
soil mixture.
Care:
Divide the plant in spring if it looks too crowded or
unproductive (usually every 2-3 years).
Pests:
Few pests both this plant; occasionally it can be affected
by scale and mealy bugs; rabbits are partial to these
plants as well.
Companion Surround with a tall desert spoon, African bulbine and
Plants:
the pink-flowing African daisy. Can be used to cascade
over the side of a pot of pink, lavender and teal-leaved
Hens & Chick plant. Also great in containers with
mixed-succulent bowls (See photo on Page 6).
Reference Sources listed on Page 6
Five Tips for Growing Succulents

Source: Cassidy Tuttle on Succulents & Sunshine, June 2012
Proper succulent care can be easy, as long as you know a few basics. I wanted to
share five basic tips that have helped me grow happier healthier succulents. They are
very basic but Ill share my experience with each.
#1 WATER LESS: I know, I know this is the thing that gets said over and over
with succulents too much water is not good for succulents. Its true! It is a crucial part
of succulent care. I have almost lost a couple plants due to over watering so really this
cant be stressed enough! A couple things I have learned along the way that may help
with watering the thicker the leaves on a succulent the less water it needs. So
my beautiful Pachyveria Moon Glow (shown below) is going to need a lot less water
than the Aeonium Zwartkop. I actually really like the Aeonium Zwartkop because it
tells me when it needs to be watered by having droopy leaves. Add a little water and it
perks up within a couple hours!
The way I go about watering my plants is by giving them a good soak once a
week. Ive found this works better than a light misting because all of the roots get the
water and then it has plenty of time to dry out. Now that these plants are getting colder
I just water every other week and work my way to once a month.
Page 5
The above plant is an example of a succulent that is

stretching for light. See how spaced out the leaves are?
#3 LOTS OF SUNLIGHT: Succulents need a lot of

sunlight to grow happy and healthy. Something I learned
though is they dont like direct sunlight in the heat of
the summer when they are outside. They are very prone to
sunburn. Rather, if they are outside put them somewhere
they will receive some shade and stay relatively cool.
Morning light is good with a bright shade in the afternoon. If
your plants are inside, put them somewhere theyll receive
bright light for most of the day. They are less likely to get
sunburned inside, but it can still happen. Usually a southfacing windowsill will provide enough light but if you notice
signs of sunburn (brown/black spots on the leaves) move it
somewhere that the light is not quite as direct.
A sign that your succulent isnt getting enough light is
stretching. If your plant starts to get really tall with a lot of
space between leaves it is stretching out trying to find more
light. If you notice this, try to move your plant where it will
get more light throughout the day (See photo above).
#4 PROPAGATE: One of my favorite things about

succulents is how easily they propagate. It is so easy to
increase your succulent garden by merely taking off leaves
(See photo below) from your plants and putting them out on
a damp soil to grow. Propagating is so easy and so much
fun to see the tiny new plants growing. Plus, if your supply
of succulents is constantly growing it is fun to start giving
them to other people!
Pachyveria Moon Glow
Aeonium Zwartkop
#2 WELL-DRAINING SOIL: So, I just told you succulents need infrequent

watering and the soil needs to dry out between watering. In order to do that youll need
a well-draining soil. There are a lot of suggestions as to what you should use for soil
and in what proportions.
The basic idea is that you need to mix in something light and porous into regular
soil to increase the drainage. Ive been adding pearlite to soil at about a 1:1 ratio. One
of the best soil mixes I have though is from a can of succulents I got from a gardening
class taught by Cynthia Bee. She uses vermiculite and coconut coir in her mix and it
has been really great as far as drainage. Im looking to switch over to all coconut coir.
Basically though, just make sure your succulent is in a well draining soil so the roots
can completely dry out between waterings.
Succulent leaves
Page 6
Blue Chalk Plant Continued From Page 3
BLUE CHALK PLANT

Article References
Blue Chalk Plant Care & Maintenance by James

Burghardt on GardenGuides.com at link:
http://www.gardenguides.com/112761-senecio-bluechalk-plant-care-maintenance.html
Blue Chalk Sticks in Water-Wise Plants For the
Southwest by Nan Sterman, Mary Irish, Judith
Phillips and Joe Lampll, Cool Springs Press, 2010.
Growing & Caring for Succulent Senecio Plants on
About.com at link:
How To Care For Blue Chalk Stick Succulents on SF
Gate Guides at link:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/care-blue-chalk-sticksucculent-68475.html
Introduction To Succulent Senecio by Geoff Stein on
DavesGarden.com at link:
http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/printstory.php
?rid=2696
PlantFiles: Blue Chalk Sticks Kleinia mandrailiscae on
DavesGarden.com at link:
http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/57976/#b
Ten Outstanding Succulents by Maureen Gilmer on Fine
Gardening.com at link:
http://www.finegardening.com/10-outstandingsucculents
Succulent Cuttings
#5 EXPERIMENT: I have been participating a little bit in this succulent and cactus
forum. There is a lot of great information on there and people are so willing to help out
when they can. From all of the things Ive read on there though Ive decided that the
health of your succulents boils down to experimenting with watering, soil and
sunlight. Every area is so different and the plants respond in various ways to their
environment. Often youll see completely contradictory statements in regard to care of
succulents but ultimately their environment determines whether or not something will
be good for the plants.
I would love to hear from any of you with your successes or failures in growing
succulents as well as questions you might have about them. I am not an expert by any
means but I am passionate about them and am always excited to learn more. If you
have any tips for growing succulents feel free to share them here as well!!
Ms. Tuttle has written an E-Book entitled, Propagating Succulents which

can be ordered online at link:
https://www.e-junkie.com/ecom/gb.php?c=cart&i=1333047&cl=251169&ejc=2
Becky Shasta Daisy

Author: Deborah Gruca, in Garden Gate Magazine, June 2009
RAISING DAISIES
Page 7
Sunny Side Up Shasta Daisy
Light Up Your Garden With Shasta Daisies SummerLong Blooms

Shasta daisies have long been sunny garden favorites, both in beds and, with their long,
stiff stems, as cut flowers. Theyre a cinch to grow, they bloom for a long time and they attract
butterflies, but not deer.
You may be familiar with Becky (shown above) a heavy bloomer with an upright habit.
Growing Shastas in a drift is a terrific way to show off the uniform habit and those gorgeous
3-inch flowers on their sturdy 3-inch stems. Becky starts to flower in July and keeps it up
straight through to September. And its true that Becky is great, but lets take a look at a few
of the many other cultivars that youll find at nurseries and garden centers now.
--Impressive Petals: Plenty of the new cultivars sport larger flowers, with more eyecatching petals than the older Shastas. Check out the aptly names Fluffy, with its full double
flowers sprouting threadlike petals. My favorite double is Fiona Coghill, with its audacious
pompon flowers. The stout stems are strong enough to hold those heavy 3 -inch blooms,
even when theyre wet after watering or rain.
Crazy Shasta Daisy
--White Is Alright: For the most part, white is

the color of Shasta daisies, though there are a
few that claim yellow petals. Sunshine
(Sonnenschein) is really a pale yellow, while
Cobham Gold is closer to a soft butter-cream.
Sunshine Shasta Daisy

Fluffy Shasta Daisy
Crazy Daisy Shasta Daisy
If you go for a little more traditional daisy-shaped flowers, try Sunny Side Up. It has a
yellow center thats larger than those on the other cultivars and the petals, described as
crested are shorter and more rounded. Crazy Daisy is a 30-inch tall Shasta that adds a
playful attitude to the garden and the haphazard arrangement of petals is as endearing as its
name. (See photos at top of Column 2)
--A Size For Everyone: You will find that Shasta cultivars range in height from 10 to 40
inches and flower size from 2 to almost 5 inches across. Both Fluffy and Fiona Coghill
grow to around 27 inches tall, shorter than some but bigger that the 16-inch Tinkerbelle, with
its petite 2-inch blooms. At the other end of the scale, Amelia reaches a good 40 inches tall
with 5-inch flowers.
Cogham Gold Daisy


Raising Shasta DaisiesContinued From Page 7
Page 8
Wildlife-Friendly
Vegetable Gardener
How to Grow Food in Harmony with Nature

Author: Tammi Hartung, December 31, 2013
Storey Publishing, LLC (Paperback)
Ox-Eye Daisy (Invasive & Noxious Weed)

By now, you probably want lots of Shastas. Just dont accidentally pick up the
weedy lookalike shown above. The Ox-Eye Daisy is a wild Shasta relative with
smaller flowers that bloom earlier on thinner, more arching stems. Its considered
a weed because it spreads so quickly and can be hard to get rid of. Ox-Eyes
produce tons of seed that remain viable for years, even after being eaten and
digested by animals. And if you dig out the plants, they readily resprout from even
small parts of the rhizomes left in the soil.
See our MG Magazine for March 2013, Page 16 for the article on the Ox-Eye
Daisy. Many people consider it to be a pretty wildflower, but wildflower does not
mean native. In fact, it is an invasive noxious weed that is classified as a Class A
Noxious Weed in New Mexico. Currently this plant has a limited distribution in our
state, but there is a need to prevent any new infestations or to eradicating existing
infestations. It is noxious and highly invasive.!
Care & Maintenance of Shastas

When you grow Shastas in well-drained soil in full sun to part shade, these
plants dont need a lot of care. A single feeding with an all-purpose fertilizer in
spring and regular deadheading are about it. Most Shastas dont require staking,
but occasionally taller cultivars get knocked down by heavy rains and strong wind.
Shastas take a couple of years to reach their full size and some folks find that
theyre short-lived (3 to 4 years). But if you amend the soil with plenty of wellrotted manure and compost before you plant, this doesnt have to be the case.
Remove faded blooms by cutting the stems just above a pair of leaves with sharp
scissors. Doing this also make the plants look better and the bloom period lasts
considerably longer, so its worth the effort.
Flowering is finished by late summer, and you can cut the plant back for a tidier
look. Remove the brown stems just above the mound of green foliage. You may
get a very light rebloom. If, after several years, blooming starts to decline, divide
the plants in early spring or early fall to revive them.
Good drainage is as crucial while the plants are dormant as when theyre
actively growing. Wet soil during the winter can kill them. Thats one reason you
shouldnt mulch Shastas heavily in winter, not even in northern zonesa light
covering of pine needles or chopped leaves is enough. And be sure to remove the
mulch and any other debris as the plants emerge in the spring.!
Anyone who has ever planted and maintained a backyard

vegetable garden understands the struggles of keeping pests
at bay, whether theyre tiny and creep on six legs or furry and
walk on all fours. The good news, which internationally
renowned herbalist and organic gardener Hartung shares in
this easy-to-follow guidebook, is that an abundance of timetested, nontoxic techniques can easily protect your garden
without causing undue harm to wildlife.
In eight colorfully illustrated chapters, Hartung offers a
range of invaluable strategies for designing gardens that keep
the critters out without hurting them, such as borders of
parsley that rabbits will munch on instead of lettuce, and builtin, bird-friendly habitats that encourage our winged friends to
feed on bothersome bugs.
Beginning with proper soil preparation, the author also
covers such basics as crop rotation, water sources, whether
or not to use organic pesticides, and growing backbone
plants like hedgerows where beneficial creatures can nest
Novice and expert vegetable growers alike will find
Hartungs well-presented advice both revelatory and warmly
reassuring.--Carl Hays
(Description Source: Amazon.com)
Page 9
Honey-Do List for August 2014

Much of our suggested garden task information comes directly from Month-by-Month Gardening in the
Desert Southwest by Mary Irish (2002). We wanted you to know that this is an outstanding gardening
resource book. Also, some of our recommendations come from Southwest Planting Tips by the Month and the
Tucson Gardening Calendar both of which are produced by the Tucson Botanical Gardens. Another resource
used in our Honey-Do Lists is The Desert Gardeners Calendar: Your Month-by-Month Guide by George
Brookbank (1999.) Recommendations from Sunset Magazines monthly Southwest Garden Guides may also
be included.
GENERAL:
Continue life support. Be prepared to harvest rainwater with buckets placed under downspouts. Also, this is a good
time to update your garden journal with notes on plant performance successes and failures.
ORNAMENTALS
As usual, deadhead flowers, oleander, and others. For oleanders, encourage dense growth without reducing
height by pruning out one-third of the branches at the plants base. To reduce overall size and improve form, cut
the entire plant back to 12 inches tall, then fertilize and water thoroughly.
By this time, drought-tolerant plants may look pretty disreputable. Assuming that they are done flowering, cut
them back. Its safe to reduce their bulk by a third.
Give big, floppy, late blooming flowers, such as boltonias, asters and dahlias, extra support. Rig some stakes or
branches around the plants, cinching them with soft twine.
Plant annual and perennial wildflower seeds for spring bloom. Bachelor buttons, flax, lunaria, coreopsis, Mexican hat, and penstemon are options.
Continue to plant heat-loving annuals like Madagascar periwinkle, portulaca and sunflowers either from seed or transplants.
Plant and divide clumps of bearded iris and daylilies. Pry each clump with a garden fork, and cut the foliage back. They split it into smaller
sections, each with some fat rhizomes and a little fan of leaves. Replant and watertheres time for the divisions to establish themselves before
cold weather arrives.
Plant seeds of pansy, Johnny jump-ups, snapdragons, and pinks for fall transplant.
Remove seed heads from Crepe Myrtles.
Fertilize container plants once this month with a water-soluble fertilizer. If you have newly planted annuals that have been in the ground over two
weeks, fertilize once with low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer.
Start planting chrysanthemums now.
Fall planting is just around the cornercheck out the garden catalogs. If you want to plant a wildflower garden, start planning for it now. Natives
well suited to home gardens are: Mexican gold or California poppies, desert bluebells, Clarkia or godetia, chinchweed and golden fleece and tidy
tips (layia platyglossa) that has spreading daisy-like flowers.
Keep weeds under control.
FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES

Water pecans deeply as nuts are beginning to fill.
Black pecan aphids may become a problem. Treat to prevent premature leaf abscission.
Its time to stop cover sprays. Read pesticide label.
Harvest Bartlett pears from trees before they turn gold.
Continue treating peach tree borers on plums, apricots, peaches, and almonds.
Other than palms, do not fertilize trees in your yard this month.
Finish planting palms.
Fertilize citrus at the end of this month.
VEGETABLES, FRUIT & HERBS
Prepare beds for cool-season vegetables and annuals. Renovate garden beds for fall planting by
adding compost and working it in.
Divide garlic chives, lemon grass, and mints.
Time to plant bush and pinto beans, beets, chard, collards, carrots, kohlrabi, leaf, Romaine, and head lettuce, mustard, radishes, and turnips. You
can also plant fast-maturing varieties of corn and summer squash early in August. Later this month, make early plantings of beets, bok choy,
broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards, cucumber, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, leeks, mustard greens,
snap beans and Swiss chard.
If you kept eggplant and pepper plants through the summer, cut them back to the newest leaves as this will rejuvenate the plants and they will
bear a good fall crop.
Ripening peppers ought to be left on the plant as long as possible. Warm days and cooler nights inspire a good fruit set and excellent flavor.
Handy Tip: Peppers with 3 bumps on the bottom are sweeter and better for eating. Peppers with 4 bumps on the bottom are firmer and better for
cooking.
The best time to harvest herbs is right before their flowers open. Their essential oils will be at their peak now. Examples include mint, thyme,
basil and epazote.
Page 10
Honey-Do List for August 2014Continued

LAWNS / TURF / ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
Later this month, fertilize established cool-season turf.
Fertilize ornamental grasses with a balanced fertilizer to enhance flowering. Water well after application.
Its time to start seeding cool-season grasses. Incorporate phosphorus into seedbed before seeding.
Continue fertilization schedule for warm-season grasses.
Its time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide for cool-season weed control. Follow label directions carefully.
Discontinue grub treatments as white grubs are larger and moving deeper in the soil profile.
Certain lawn grasses benefit from a late-summer feedingparticularly St. Augustine, Bermuda and Bahia
grasses. Apply a light amount of fertilizer, and remember to water before and after each application.
CACTI & SUCCULENTS
Continue to plant cactus and other warm-season succulents.
Do not fertilize succulents in the ground. Fertilize container-grown plants with a water-soluble, low-nitrogen formula.
Prune to remove spent blooming stalks from red yucca and agaves. Prune out any diseased or damaged stems from
prickly pear or cholla or to reduce the size of these plants. Allow the cut areas to dry then dust with a light powdering of
sulphur.
Some of the above recommendations came from the Tucson Botanical Gardens monthly calendar of care for cacti
and succulents.
ROSES
The best time to cut roses for a bouquet is mid-morning, after the dew has dried
and just before the heat of the day stresses the blooms. Pick blooms that are just
starting to unfurl; theyll finish opening for you indoors.
Roses grown in containers can be fertilized every two months throughout the summer if you use a granular
fertilizer. For water-soluble fertilizers, they can be used every month. For roses in the ground, if you decide to
fertilize this month, use only half the recommended dose.
Apply a heavy mulch, up to 6 thick to all roses, but keep the mulch away from the main stem to avoid too
much moisture on the stem.
Watch for iron deficiency in your rosestreat with chelated iron if needed.
Fertilize roses at the end of this month.
Consider planting Catmint or Red Creeping Thyme at the base of your rose plants.
It is always important to correctly identify any insect or disease you suspect may have caused damage to your plants. If you do not know
what the culprit is, collect a sample in a plastic bag or small jar and take it to the Doa Ana County Cooperative Extension Office located at
530 N. Church in Las Cruces (located just north of the Main Post Office downtown.)
Our trained Hotline Volunteers are available to the public Tuesdays and Fridays from 9:00am to 12 noon.
PESTS
Whiteflies begin to show up this month. These tiny flying insects appear as clouds arising from the underside of leaves when a plant is watered or
disturbed. Use a soapy water solution (1 tablespoon dishwashing lotion liquidthe Dawn brand is
especially goodto 1 gallon of water) on the underside of leaves daily to keep these insects under control
since large infestations are almost impossible to control.
Continue to hose off plants frequently, once of twice weekly, to control aphids and spider mites.
As humidity rises, powdery mildew (a fungus disease) may show up. To prevent rampant infestation, apply
a sulfur-based fungicide at first evidence of mildew and repeat applications as necessary. You can also
make your own fungicide spray with 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 quart water and a few drops of liquid soap.
Before treating your plants, test the spray on a few leaves to make sure they are not too sensitive (Source:
GardenGuides.com).
MISCELLANEOUS
Depending on the weather, continue a deep watering schedule for everything.
Check drip-irrigation system timing--reduce watering if rains penetrate deeply.
Keep weeds under control--pull summer-season weeds before seeds are set.
REMINDER!
!!
!
!
!
!
!
Our monthly MG meeting for

Wednesday, August 13th, 2014
to be held at:
Branigan Memorial Library
Location: Roadrunner Room
Our meeting time is 9:15am to 11:45am
MANY THANKS FOR THE GOODIES

We appreciate your thoughtfulness
August Goodies
Ann Palormo
Sherry Hulsey
Mari Blacker
September Goodies
Joan Woodward
Mona Nelson
Sherry Hulsey
Page 11
!
!
!
!
!
!
AUGUST 2014 MG BIRTHDAY

Nancy Carson
Dick Hiss
Marjie Snell
Emma Ulloa
In order to reduce the chances of Identity Theft for our MGs,
exact birthdate info will no longer be printed in our Magazine.
SAVE THESE DATES
The deadline for submitting information for the Sept. 2014

MG Monthly Magazine will be Friday, August 29, 2014.
Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
asring@powerc.net
(575) 640-7177
GOT IDEAS?
If you have a gardening-related article or a suggestion about a
Plant-of-the-Month, a vegetable or fruit, tree, invasive plant or
weed to share for our MG Magazine, please send me a link or
email me your idea. Anyone can submit information or an article
for inclusion in our monthly magazine. FYI, I do try to put in
information that is seasonal in nature to ensure that MGs and
others receive the resources on a timely basis.
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified MG
Email: asring@powerc.net
Mobile: (575) 640.7177
2014 National Night Out

Tuesday, August 5th
The City of Las Cruces will host a 2014 National Night Out event
6:00-9:00 p.m. Tuesday, August 5th, at Main Street downtown.
This evening event promotes positive activities involving crime and
drug prevention, strengthens police-community relations and
encourages neighborhood camaraderie as the City strives for a safer
Las Cruces.
MG CONTACT INFORMATION
Be sure your email address is current so

that you will be able to receive important
information throughout the month from the MG
Program. I regularly update our MG Contact
List. If you need a copy of this file, let me
know.
If you have an update to your email or other
contact information, please contact me:
Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
asring@powerc.net
(575) 640-7177
2014 Butterfly Flutterby

Saturday, August 16th
Learn how to identify butterflies and attract them to your garden.
Events include butterfly games, arts and crafts, and face painting is
available for visitors of all ages. Local childrens author, Patricia
Mihok, will be in attendance to sign her new book. Admission is $3.
Location:
Asombro Institute for Science Education
@ Chihuahuan Desert Nature Park
56501 N. Jornada Road, Las Cruces, New Mexico 88012
9:00 am 12:00 pm
Page 12
What is West Nile Virus?

A virus is an extremely small organism that causes diseases in humans, animals, and plants. West Nile Virus (WNV) can lead to serious illness for
some people and animals. The virus was first seen in North America in 1999. Experts believe that WNV is seasonal since most cases are diagnosed in
late summer and early fall.
How is West Nile Virus Spread?
The WNV is spread to people and animals through the bites of infected mosquitoes. The mosquitoes become infected when they feed on infected
birds. The birds become infected by the bites of infected mosquitoes (Figure 1). This is how the cycle continues.
Figure 1. The Asian Tiger Mosquito can harbor West Nile Virus. (Susan Ellis, Bugwood.org)
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) reports a very small number of cases in which the virus spread from human-to-human. These
cases are not typical. Generally, these occurrences were from blood transfusions, organ transplants, and very limited transmissions from mother to
child during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
WNV is not transmitted from person to person through casual contact. Touching or kissing an infected person will not spread the virus.
WNV is not transmitted from animal to animal (such as horse to horse), animal to human, or human to animal.
Is West Nile Virus found in New Mexico?
Yes. Cases of WNV in New Mexico have occurred every year since 2003. Reported WNV activity in NM during 2003 to 2011 included:
Nearly 500 cases of WNV in humans. The largest number of cases was 209 in 2003; the fewest were 4 in 2011.
Just under 500 cases of WNV in horses. The largest number of cases was 419 in 2003; the fewest were 1 in 2010 and 2 in 2011.
Other animals that tested positive included llamas/alpacas, canines, bovines, pigs/hogs, and chickens.
Dead birds might be a sign of WNV infection. Crows and blue jays are related and are especially susceptible to WNV. However, any dead bird
(ravens, magpies, scrub jays, Stellers jays, pinyon jays) could indicate presence of the virus.
Caution! If you find a dead bird, dont handle the body with your bare hands. Contact your local health department for instructions on reporting and
disposing of the body. You may be told to dispose of the bird after your report is logged.
How sick can a person get when infected with West Nile Virus?
For some people, the WNV infection produces no symptoms or serious illness. In others, it can cause health problems and sometimes death. There
is no way to know ahead of time whether or not youll get sick when you are infected.
Serious illness can occur in people of any age. Those at the highest risk for getting severely ill when infected with WNV include people over age 50
and those with compromised immune systems (for example, transplant patients). Typically, symptoms appear between 3 and 14 days after being bitten.
Among people infected with WNV:
Most (about 4 out of every 5) do not develop any symptoms.
Some (about 2 out of every 10) will develop West Nile fever. Symptoms include fever, headache, tiredness, and body aches. Occasionally, a skin
rash on the chest, stomach, and back appears, along with swollen lymph glands. The illness can be as short as a few days or can last several
weeks.
Very few people (about 1 out of every 150) will develop West Nile encephalitis or meningitis. Symptoms include high fever, headache, neck
stiffness, stupor, disorientation, coma, tremors, convulsions, muscle weakness, and paralysis. These symptoms typically last a few weeks, but
the WNV effect on the nervous system (including the brain) can be permanent.
Guide Continued on Page 13
Page 13
West Nile Virus: Information For New Mexico

NMSU Guide I-102, Continued From Page 12
How is West Nile Virus treated?
There is no specific treatment for WNV infection. Although
milder symptoms may continue over several weeks, people usually
get well on their own. For more severe cases, hospitalization may
be needed.
How sick can an animal get when infected with West Nile
Virus?
Primarily, only horses get sick when infected with WNV.
However, many infected horses do not develop any illness or
symptoms. Of those that do become ill, about 3 out of every 10 die
or need to be euthanized.
Other livestock and poultry can become infected with WNV, but
do not commonly get sick.
Although dogs or cats can become infected with WNV, clinical
signs rarely appear.
How can West Nile Virus be prevented?
Prevention measures consist of community-based mosquito
control programs that are able to reduce populations of diseasecausing mosquitoes, as well as personal protection measures to
reduce the likelihood of being bitten by infected mosquitoes.
The easiest and best way to avoid WNV is to prevent
mosquito bites.
Use insect repellent containing an EPA-registered active
ingredient, such as DEET. Use it properly and follow the
directions on the label. Other active ingredients to look for
include picaridin or icaridin, oil of lemon eucalyptus, and IR3535.
Many mosquitoes are most active at dawn and dusk. Limit time
outsideor stay insideduring peak mosquito-biting hours.
Wear shoes, socks, long pants, and loose-fitting, long-sleeved
shirts when outdoors.
Get rid of mosquito breeding sites by eliminating standing water.
Look for things like unused farm equipment, flowerpots, gutters,
barrels, and buckets. Change the water in pet dishes and
replace the water in watering troughs and birdbaths weekly. Drill
holes in tire swings so water drains out. Keep childrens wading
pools empty and place them on their sides or upside down when
not in use.
Repair or install good screens on windows and doors around the
home to keep mosquitoes out.
Protection For Horses:
Vaccinate your horses with the Fort Dodge Animal Health West
Nile Virus Vaccine, which is approved by the U.S. Department of
Agriculture. Contact your veterinarian about the initial
vaccination and annual booster.
There is no treatment for WNV once a horse becomes infected.
Protection For Pets:
Keep pets indoors during peak mosquito-biting hours (dawn and
dusk).
Prevent pets from coming into contact with dead birds that might
be infected.
Use only veterinarian-approved mosquito repellent on your pet.
Do not use products containing DEET on pets.
Consult your veterinarian for additional preventive precautions.!
Blue-Winged Teal
DID YOU KNOW?

Learn More About the Duck World.
Source: Birds & Blooms, July 2014
" In English, ducks say quack, but what does a duck say in two other
languages? In French, its coin coin and in Spanish its cua cua.
" Dabblers rarely dive. They feed at the surface or tip up with their
behinds in the air to reach food underwater. Three Dabblers: Mallards,
Blue Winged Teals (see photo above) and American Wigeons.
" Diving ducks feed at the surface of the water or dive deep underwater.
Four Common Divers: Scoters, Eiders, Mergansers and Buffleheads.
Wood Duck Mother & Ducklings
" At about 25 inches, the common Merganser is one of the largest ducks
in North America.
Merganser Duck
" American Black Ducks, often seen with Mallards and sometimes
confused with female Mallards, migrate at night in small flocks of 12-30.
" You might be surprised to learn that many ducks are champion fliers.
Migrating Mallards can fly up to 55 mph.
" No duck gets bird-watchers as excited as the stunningly patterned

Wood Duck. When the ducklings are ready to leave the nest thats
been built in a tree near the water, the mother calls to them and they
jump down from the nest as far as 290 feet, without injury.!
Page 14
NATURE: Landscapes and ecosystems cover the surface of the earth
! Sustainability and Golf!

Source: The Golf Environment at link:
http://www.golfenvironment.org/sustainable_golf
Golf can be a leader in sustainable sport and business, universally
valued for its positive role for nature and people. For centuries, golf
has uniquely integrated nature and communities, providing
environmental and social benefits. Protection of coastal zones and
urban green space, improved air and water quality, employment,
community, and a healthy, inter-generational sport set in ecologically
rich landscapes.
Now, as sustainability concerns and expectations rise across
all aspects of life, the golf community is well positioned to
contribute more.
Coming together around a sustainability agenda for golf including
nature, water, energy, pollution control, supply chain, and community,
the global golf community can make a real difference; with practical
outcomes across the tens of thousands of golf clubs, hundreds of
new golf developments, and thousands of tournaments. The industry
reaches millions of people so it also has the opportunity to be a
catalyst by raising sustainability awarenessleading by example.
The Golf Environment Organization (GEO) is dedicated to helping
the industry come together around sustainability, building a reputation
where golf equals sustainability.
providing the canvas on which we live, work and play. Our human interaction
with the environment directly affects the health of the planet, and its capacity
to support us.
Great golf enhances landscapes and can enrich ecosystems creating and sustaining beautiful and biologically diverse open spaces contributing to the resilience of the natural world. Thats good for the planet
and helps to offset the impact of the industrys consumption of resources.
Maintaining biodiversity has always been close to the heart of the game.
As Peter Thomson, five-time winner of The Open Championship said - "It's
the balance between foul and fair ground that sets the greatest golf courses
apart". As well as being integral to the challenge of the game, natural areas
are fundamental to its sustainability. Golf can embrace the wild as much as it
needs the tamed.
Ecosystems are our planet's life support systems - purifying water,
producing oxygen, regulating temperature and climate, recycling nutrients,
providing food and vegetation, controlling erosion and providing species
habitats. Golf can contribute to all of this, but only if a course is configured to
find the best landscape and ecosystem fit for its local context. That requires
understanding combined with innovation, and an appreciation that
sympathetic development benefits everyone.
WATER: Global water consumption is doubling every 20 years and
"SUSTAINABILITY AGENDA"
Across an agenda that brings sustainability from a concept into
practical actions integrated throughout the daily operations of a golf
facility, business and common good interests can be met in unison. A
greater focus in on sustainability can unlock cost-savings, and
improve reputation, operational efficiencies, and customer
attraction and loyalty.
The industry-supported programs provided by GEO help the
people on the ground in golf to evaluate and improve performance
across the six action areas of sustainable golf.
water deficits are increasing. As an industry, golf's water footprint is

significant, incorporating the irrigation of thousands of golf courses worldwide
and the use of potable water in clubhouses, restaurants and real estate. It
extends to the manufacturing of machinery, merchandise and equipment;
fertilizer, pesticide, turf and seed production; as well as cements, concrete
and other construction materials. The question is how does such an industry
reduce its water use?
A Blueprint For Change: Given that water is perhaps the single greatest
challenge to golf's sustainability, the sector has to continue to optimize its
water consumption by increasing efficiency and utilizing innovative
technologies. Water costs will rise; so acting decisively now will reap
financial benefits for golf businesses everywhere.
Further research and development into new drought and disease
resistant turfgrass, that can survive using low quality irrigation water is
critical. In tandem the industry should adopt a low impact approach to
design, construction and management. This may even have implications for
the use of any turfgrass at all in certain regions.

Sustainability In GolfContinued From Page 14
Golf courses should contribute to the natural function of aquatic
ecosystems and watersheds. They can help the water cycle by attenuating
and naturally treating water, and allowing slow percolation into soil and
aquifers, ultimately improving water quality.
Swales, ditches, wetlands, waterways and other sustainable drainage
features can make a meaningful contribution to the natural replenishment,
purification and re-cycling of water supplies.
Page 15
Money Talks: By changing purchasing patterns, we can invest in a

greener future. Small decisions can have big consequences. Insisting
that products are de-packaged before delivery, that packaging is reused and recycled, and sourcing products that have a recycled and
recyclable content, will have a huge positive impact.
For example, waste is just a product that needs processing and zero
waste is a realistic target for most golf businesses. Communicating the
progress were making to our customers adds to your business through
positive perceptions.
More and more people are equating sustainable products with high
quality products - adding to customer satisfaction and loyalty.
ENERGY: The global population and its demand for energy increases
every day. How we meet that demand is the critical issue given that the
type and amount of energy we use, and the emissions that arise from that
use, have an impact on our environment, climate and our quality of life.
Traditional sources of energy are peaking or declining. In a volatile
world theyre proving increasingly difficult to deliver. Costs are rising
rapidly. In the face of climate change and environmental degradation its
also clear that they will come under increased regulation. Sustainable,
secure, renewable energy sources are the way forward, so embracing
this change and adapting energy supply makes ever greater commercial
sense.
For most golf courses, day-to-day management of turfgrass is the
single, largest resource consumption area. From 'embodied' energy in
products such as maintenance machinery, fertilizers and pesticides, to the
treatment of water and the use of non-renewable fuels, reductions in the
resource inputs into turfgrass will unlock significant economic and
environmental gains. At its heart, the future health of the golf industry rests
on a combination of efficiently managed turfgrass and a smooth transition
to cleaner and cheaper energy.
Getting ahead of the curve: As an industry golf is in a good position to
lead. Many golf facilities are well placed to harness geothermal heating
and cooling, and solar and wind-power generation. Passive design
(avoiding use of inefficient, energy squandering, mechanical systems) can
be utilized by architects to reduce or remove energy loads of buildings and
landscapes. These technologies can be retrofitted into courses and
clubhouses. Renovations to courses offer huge opportunities for energy
and resultant cost savings across long-term maintenance.
POLLUTION CONTROL: A well planned, designed, constructed and

managed golf facility can improve air, water and soil quality
through sustained, consistent land and resource management. Some of
the key positive contributions golf can make to the quality and health of
the environment include:
The protection of urban and semi urban green spaces; acting as
'green-lungs' and cooling systems to counter urban heat island
effects in towns and cities.
Bringing investment opportunities for brownfield and
contaminated land regeneration; creating access to green space
for local people - golfing and other forms of passive recreation.
Functioning as watersheds and providing attenuation, natural filtering
and treatment of water; contributing to flood alleviation and
carbon sequestration.
Managing run-off, erosion and conserving soil structure and
biodiversity, providing windbreaks and creating microclimates.
SUPPLY CHAIN: Whenever we buy or consume, we have an

impact. The products and services that golf uses can be carefully
considered to ensure a fair deal for businesses and for our planet.
Strong Links: By integrating social and environmental issues into
purchasing decisions, golf can play its part in the drive to develop efficient,
equitable, localized and lower carbon supply chains. From clubs to events,
to manufacturers and tourism promoters, we can consume fewer and
smarter materials while stimulating local supply chains.
When scaled across global golf, the impact of such decisions is
enormous. Thousands of golf businesses, in thousands of regions around
the world, can deliver valuable environmental innovations and social
benefits through socially and environmentally responsible procurement
policies.
COMMUNITY: Golf has a lot to be proud of socially and

economically. Currently global golf business generates an estimated
$250-300billion annually, employing hundreds of thousands of people
around the world, while the sport embraces people of all ages, races
and beliefs. With a wealth of direct and indirect contributions to players
and wider society, golf should aim to continue to be a force for good in
parallel to promoting the game.
Page 16
Sustainability In GolfContinued From Page 15

Contribution: Golf is not an island. The industry has a collective
responsibility to everyone whose lives it affects. With a huge economic and
social value generated through the operation of thousands of businesses in
facility management, development, event staging, media, product
manufacturing, merchandising and tourism. As well as those directly involved
in the business of golf, the sector also provides important social and
economic benefits to communities.
Our Lord's Candle

(Hesperoyucca whipplei)
By Kelli Kallenborn on DavesGarden.com, May 24, 2014
ACTION: For more than thirty years the leading golf organizations around
the world have worked in partnership with universities and institutes on a
significant amount of sustainability based research and development. More
recently, the industry has been collaborating around the development of a
new modern sustainability system:
A set of more clearly defined and visibly recognized Voluntary
Sustainability Standards for Golf, drawing from the large body of
knowledge and best practices. Future evolutions of the standard will be
developed with newly formed international Working Groups.
Practical support programs to achieve the standard across the grass
roots of the game, simultaneously guiding courses to valuable business
benefits and continual improvement, and gathering thousands of sets of
qualitative and quantitative performance data from clubs, developments,
and tournaments around the world. OnCourse, the online program for
golf facility operations is available for free as underwritten through industry
investment.
A credible and modern certification and re-certification process built
on top of the sustainability support programs, and an international
mark of sustainability of golfs own, GEO Certified, recognized by ISEAL,
the global body assuring credibility in sustainability standards.
A common name for Hesperoyucca whipplei is Our Lord's

Candle. A name like that suggests that there must be something out
of the ordinary about this plant. There is. With an inflorescence up to
13 feet tall, it is the exclamation point of the chaparral.
Besides the dignified name of Our Lord's Candle, the plant also
has the colorful name of Quixote plant and the more mundane name
of Chaparral yucca. The plant is native to southwestern California
and adjacent Baja, with a disjunct population near the Grand
Canyon. Its preferred habitat is chaparral, but it can also be found in
coastal sage scrub, grassland, and yellow pine forest.
Hesperoyucca whipplei was formerly known as Yucca whipplei,
but detailed differences in the flower structure caused it to recently be
moved to a new genus. The species is so variable that it is divided
into four subspecies: percursa, caespitosa, intermedia, and
parishii. The subspecies are each found in a specific location and
that is the easiest way to identify them in their natural ranges. They
also vary in if, how, and when the plant forms offsets and in size of
the leaf rosette and the inflorescence. I am familiar with
Hesperoyucca whipplei subsp. intermedia and H. whipplei subsp.
parishii and will discuss those two subspecies only here.
Moving toward a more consistent representation of golfs sustainability

scorecard according to modern sustainability metrics for golf, and relevant to
governments, NGOs, and the public. This project is underway."
H. whipplei subsp. Intermedia

Page 17
Our Lords CandleContinued from Page 16

H. whipplei subsp. Intermedia (shown on previous Page 16) is native to
the Santa Monica Mountains and adjacent country of Los Angeles and
Ventura Counties. It is a stemless plant with a rosette of many thin leaves,
on the order of 2 to 2 1/2 feet long. The leaf color varies from green to bluegreen. My observation has been that the green leaves tend to be more
floppy in appearance than the blue-green leaves. The flower stalk is up to
10 feet tall, which is tall enough to stick up above the chaparral and a plant in
bloom in quite noticeable. The parent rosette forms offsets at the time of
blooming and the parent rosette dies as the seeds mature.
H. whipplei subsp. parishii

If you like H. whipplei subsp. intermedia, if you think it is impressive,
then H. whipplei subsp. parishii (shown above) will knock your socks
off. The published literature says that the flower stalk is up to 13 ft tall, but I
think they get taller. There can be upwards of 600 flowers on one
inflorescence. The stalk is bigger around than my arm. The leaf rosette of
H. whipplei subsp. parishii is stemless. Its leaves are about 3 feet long and
the plant is blue-green. Subspecies intermedia is found in the San Gabriel
and San Bernardino Mountains. The plant does not form offsets and dies
after blooming.
Both subspecies bloom in late May and June. It is reported the
flower stalk can grow up to 14 inches a day. Plants take from around 10
year to 50 years to reach maturity.
Yucca Moth (Tegeticula yuccasella)

The pollination of H. whipplei is a textbook case of symbiosis. The plant
is pollinated by a yucca moth (shown above) and apparently nothing
else. When the moth is pollinating, it is also laying eggs on the flower
ovary. The larvae feed off of the developing seeds, but not all of the
seeds. Thus both species survive with the help of the other and neither
could survive without the other.
Flower Stalk of H. whipplei subsp. parishii

H. whipplei can easily be grown from seed. Just start them in pots
like you would tomatoes or marigolds or other conventional plants. I
use regular potting soil, but if your climate is humid, it might be better
to use a cactus soil mix. Plants transplanted into the ground should
be planted in well-drained soil and get at least a half day of direct
sun. In my yard, the soil is clay, which is not really the preferred soil
for H. whipplei, but the climate is dry and they are planted on a
slope. We did lose one plant in an El Nino year when we got 40
inches of rain over a couple of months. Plants beyond the seedling
stage should get minimal summer water. Plants should be planted
well away from foot traffic and play areaseach leaf has a needlesharp tip. The species is reported to be hardy in Zones 8 and
warmer.!
Our Lords Candle (shown above), native to the western Sonoran

Desert, has a decorative dense basal rosette of gray-green, rigid,
spine-tipped leaves that span about two feet, according to the Lady
Bird Johnson Wildflower Center Internet site.
It has a branched radiating root system. It produces, on a single
10- to 15-foot stalk, a dense cluster of purple-tinged, cream-colored,
bell-shaped flowers and a juicy, tender but seed-filled fruit. Its
blossoms almost seem to glow in the soft light of dawn or sunset,
giving the plant its name. Unlike other yuccas, Our Lords Candle
dies once it has bloomed.
(Source: Desert USA at link: http://www.desertusa.com/desertfood-chain/food-chain-4.html)
Halls Panicgrass
(Panicum hallii Vasey)
Source: New Mexico Rangeland Plants, NMSU Circular 374
Revised by Christopher D. Allison & Nick Ashcroft, Nov. 2011
Description:
Tufted. Up to 3 feet tall. Light green to bluish-green while

growing and straw-colored at maturity. Thin, mostly basal
leaves are curled, with the appearance of wood shavings
when dry. Open, erect seedheads. Seeds appear to be
small nutlets.
Warm-season, perennial, bunch grass
Occurrence:
Scattered throughout New Mexico except in the

northwestern and mountain areas. Common coarse sols
and bottomlands. Grows at elevations from 3,000 to 6,500
feet.
Forage Value & Management:

Growing, Halls Panicgrass is highly palatable for all
livestock. It retains this quality after curing because some
leaves remain green most of the year.
Palatability causes the grass to decrease quickly under
grazing even when associated grasses are properly
utilized. Therefore, this species can be maintained only on
areas reseeded as pure stands. !
Page 18
Vine Mesquite
(Panicum obtusum H.B.K.)
Source: New Mexico Rangeland Plants, NMSU Circular 374
Revised by Christopher D. Allison & Nick Ashcroft, Nov. 2011
Description: Viney. One to two feet tall. Long, tough stolons with
swollen, woolly joints. Light blue-green, curing to reddishstaw, then finally to a grayish-tan. Leaves somewhat
inrolled and up to 8 inches long. Seedheads in 2-6
branchlets, partially enclosed in the upper leaf sheath,
and tightly pressed to the main stem. Large, blunt seeds.
Warm-season, perennial, sod grass
Occurrence: In the southern desert and southern portion of the
western plateau, especially on sites with extra moisture.
Also grows on loamy, clay, and bottomland sites in the
high and central plains, and scattered on bottomland
sites in the northern portion of the western plateau and
northern desert. Grows at elevations from 3,100 to 7,200
feet.
Forage Value & Management:
Vine Mesquite is usually fairly unpalatable, although
livestock readily eat the fruiting heads. Because the
grass forms sod vigorously, it is valuable for erosion
control. The grass provides the best grazing in the
summer since it is coarse at maturity. Light grazing
permits the plant to spread rapidly. Since it is usually
found on sites subject to erosion, Vine Mesquite should
not be heavily grazed.!
Invasives-Toxic Weeds Watch:
Alfombrilla
(Drymaria arenarioides)
Family:
Caryophyllaceace (The pink family or carnation family of

flowering plants)
Description: Poisonous perennial that is highly toxic to livestock. The
name Alfombrilla means little carpet or rug in Spanish
and describes the dense, clump-forming habit of this lowgrowing rangeweed. Toxic to livestock and occurring in the
Mexican states of Chihuahua, Sonora, Durango,
Zacatecas San Luis Potosi. Its range is closest to the U.S.
just south of Antelope Wells, New Mexico and has also
been reported south of Nogales, Sonora.
Other Names: Lightening weed or Sandwort drymary
WATCH LIST: On NMs Noxious Weed List as a Class A Weed, which
has limited distribution in New Mexico. Preventing new
infestations of this species and eradicating existing
infestations is a high priority.
Origin:
Native of northern Mexico
Range:
Northwestern New Mexico; spreading northward.
Habitat:
Infests dry areas, acid soils, rangelands, hills and plains.
Has been found in soils with pH as high as 9.
Why It Is Considered A Problem? A poisonous plant that has caused
severe damage to the cattle industry in Chihuahua, Mexico. This plant is
also a potential problem in the U.S. because it has been found growing
near the New Mexico-Chihuahua and the Arizona-Sonora borders.
A joint Mexico-United States research program has been initiated to
generate information on control and to prevent livestock losses.
Alfombrilla is well adapted to soils and climates within the BoutelouaArislida type. Germination of freshly harvested Alfombrilla seed was less
than 5%; however, over 75% of 20-month-old seed germinated.
Optimum temperatures for germination were 18-21 C. Alfombrilla
vegetative growth under alternating day/night temperatures of 26
and 15 C was greater than at 32 and 21 C. Alfombrilla under held
conditions has been shown to be a great competitor in the habitat,
especially before and after the growing seasons of other plants.
Page 19
IDENTIFICATION:
Flowers: Five distinct while sepals up to .2 inches in length.
Lanceolate to oblong; petals are narrow.
Seeds: Seeds are brown, C-shaped with ends touching; has a thick
dorsal groove (See photo below).
Leaves: Leaves are up to .6 inches long and up to .12 inches wide.
Stems: Up to 8 inches long and sprawling to erect, branching mostly
at base.
Root:
Has taproot
Reproduction: Via seed.
MANAGEMENT & CONTROL
Prevention and early detection are essential.
Physical removal before seed production is effective, especially if the
root crown is removed.
ALFOMBRILLA
Article References
Ecology of Alfombrilla by Alfonso Sanchez-Munoz et al in the Proceeding
of the First International Rangeland Congress, 1978, Pages 370-372
Troublesome Weeds of New Mexico, Authors: Jamshid Ashigh, James
Wanstall and Frank Sholedice, NMSU 2010
Alfombrilla Seed
Page 20
Why isnt Okra grown in Mexico and shipped here in the
winter, like chile pods? I presume either it doesnt travel well or
the demand is not great enough to make it a profitable crop.
Okra Lovers Unite! We are a weak and disorganized faction.
Okra Lovers Unite!
By Rosemary Maddox, Mesilla Valley Garden Club

I stole the title above from an article in Cooking by Sarah Kahn, but I added
the exclamation point myself. I was weaned on Okra, so to speak, so I have long
been a member of the Okra Fan Club, not to be confused with the Oprah Fan
Club. We are the people who like boiled Okraanyone can like fried Okra, Im
talking fresh Okra herefrozen will get you through a long winter, but as we Okra
Lovers know, its not the same.
Okraa Malvaceae or mallowis a relative of hibiscus, cotton and hollyhocks,
and is native to Africa; the Bantu word for Okra is gumbo. Okra is widely used in
Indian recipes and its Indian name is bhindi. My Kentucky-born grandmother,
who was the gardener and cook in our household, pronounced it Okry.
Okra likes heat and dislikes overwatering, which makes it well suited for
growing in New Mexico. Soaking the seed or nicking it before planting is
recommended, although I had had no problem with germination without those
steps. It does need space, and plants should be space about two feet apart in
rows three feet apart.
Okra is not a vegetable you can easily work into your daily menu like tomatoes.
And it does have to be picked often. A pod that is tender one day may be tough
and inedible the next, so it keeps you on your toes. I have actually, albeit
grudgingly, have had to take bags of Okra to the food bank.
Fried Okra (shown below) needs no recipe, but I found an instruction, which
caught by fancyhead and tail it. Then slice it into -inch wheels, toss in
cornmeal, and fry a few minutes on each side until golden brown. I grow
Japanese eggplant and jalapenos, and I like to combine and fry the three
vegetables for an afternoon snack, which we eat with our fingers like popcorn. My
husband always says, Delicious tea, Luv. He lived in London in the 50s and has
never forgotten it.
Fried Okra
As far as I know, Okra is the only vegetable which is not available in its fresh
form all year, and Okra in the grocery store in season looks a little worse for wear.
The best source, if you dont grow your own, is the Farmers Market, where
presumably the little pods were removed from the Mother plant earlier that day.
Okra is entertaining. For example, Lamberts Caf, home of

the Throwed Rolls Caf, (shown above) is based in Sikeston,
Missouri, which is not far from my birthplace. They have other
establishments in Ozark, Missouri near Springfield and Foley,
AlabamaI have patronized both places in Missouri.
A young person wearing a Chefs hat and white apron walks
around with a big pot, and if you catch his eye and extend your
hands he will throw you a roll. No, they dont throw Okra, but
another young person follows him with a huge pot of fried Okra
and a big spoon and fills your plate until you say, no more.
Their Okra appears to have been dredged in batter and deepfried and is the best Ive ever tasted. Im too stingy with oil to do
that. Of course they serve other food but its the Okra and
throwed rolls that I remember.
I hoped to close with a unique Okra recipe, but it didnt turn
out well. I found a recipe for Okra salad, which called for
chopped bell pepper, onion and tomato, fried Okra (frozen and
breaded), and bacon. So far so good, but after combining the
ingredients, the recipe called for an oil, vinegar and sugar
dressing (I used light Italian dressing) and the salad was to be
chilled. Well, surprise, although the taste was interesting, the
fried Okra was soggy. I will do this again and after plating the
vegetables, sprinkle them with the fried Okra and then the
bacon. I think that would work. We Okra Lovers dont give up
easily.!
Okra in the garden

Article Submitted by Alberta Morgan, Certified MG
Dry Your Own Herbs
On Birds & Blooms, DIY Backyard, November 2012
Got an abundance of herbs in your garden? Dry and store them for
cooking and flavored oils. A bonus? They make fabulous gifts!
Step 1: Gather the fresh herbs from your garden, preferably in the
morning after the dew has dried but before the heat of the
sun has had a chance to wilt the leaves.
Step 2: Spread the leaves out on a clean surface to dry, or tie them
into loose bundles and hand dry. This will take several days.
If youre impatient or need them right away, you can nuke
them in the microwave on low power. Lay the leaves or
stems on a single layer of a paper towel and place in the
microwave. Start out at one minute, check for dryness, and
continue at 15-second increments until the leaves are dry
and crisp. (Drying too quickly or for too long will destroy the
flavor.)
Step 3: Strip the leaves from the tough stems.
Step 4: Working with one herb at a time, crush the leaves into pieces
of the desired size and store in air-tight jars in a cool, dark
place for maximum freshness.
Step 5: If you prefer ground herbs, you can grind the dried herbs in a
clean coffee grinder. Pack the grinder as full as you can get
it. Grind until the leaves are reduced to the desired fineness.
It helps to hold the grinder and shake it a little as it grinds.
Step 6: If there are tough bits of stem remaining, sift the herbs
through a fine sieve to remove them. Put the herbs in a jar or
canister until youre ready to use them.
Best Herbs To Dry:

Some of the best herbs to dry are those that have strong flavor such as
French tarragon, sage, thyme, oregano and rosemary. Other successful
perennial herbs that you can try include mints, lemon balm and of course,
lavender.
Cilantro is not successful when dried, but the seed from this plant is
Coriander that stores very well and can be used in curries as well as
coarsely ground onto salads. (Source: Burpee Seeds)
Page 21
Use Dried Herbs To Make Flavored Oils

# Place the dried herbs into dry, sterilized bottles.
# Warm the olive oil below a simmer (dont boil it) just until
the oil is hot, use a funnel to pour it into the bottles over the
herbs.
# When the oil is cool, cap it and let it sit for a minimum of
two weeks to allow it to absorb the flavors of the herbs.
Pour it through a strainer into new sterilized bottles,
removing the steeped herb. If you like, add a sprig or two of
dried herb or a few peppercorns to the new bottles to add
visual interest.
# Keep in a cool, dark place and use within a couple of
months.
Source: Courtesy of Little House in the Suburbs
by Deanna Caswell and Daisy Siskin.
For more information, visit link:
http://littlehouseinthesuburbs.com/our-books
Page 22
! Nutrition:
And while we are discussing nutrition, consider this: Dr. Donald
R. David of the University of Texas reported in a study titled
"Declining Fruit and Vegetable Nutrient Composition," that
commercially grown, hybrid foods have significantly less nutrition
than foods grown 100 years ago when people shared heirloom
varieties of vegetables. This is because fertilization intended to
increase yields actually decreases the minerals found in the
foods produced. So you get more and less at the same time.
Growing Heirloom Squash

By Kathleen Marshall on DavesGarden.com, May 2014
What is so special about growing heirloom squash? Well, for

one thing, it is a little like collecting antiques. Heirloom varieties
often have long and interesting histories, and when you grow
them you are helping preserve that history and passing it on.
! Variety:
Another reason is the wide variety of both summer and winter
squash. The array of shapes, sizes and colors are simply
amazing. And yes, some are a little weird. That doesn't have to
be a bad thing, though, because chances are you'll be the only
one in your neighborhood growing it!
! Flavor:
This is another big consideration when growing heirloom
squash. Many of the run-of-the-mill squash varieties are a bit
bland. Heirloom squash, for the most part, is bursting with deep,
rich flavors that you would never expect from squash. For
example, if you buy a pumpkin from the store, it may be great for
carving, but the flavor is not very memorable. Heirloom pumpkins
are sweet, bright and delicious.
Hybrid seeds, on the other hand, are breed for production and
ease of shipping but not necessarily for the best flavor or even
nutrition. While some hybrids are wonderful, some leave a lot to
be desired. Because heirloom seeds are used by home
gardeners and have been passed down for generations, they are
not bred to be shippable, aside for possibly being transported to
the local farmers' market. They are bred to be healthy, flavorful
food from your own garden with no modifications needed.
Ever buy a tomato at the grocery store and think it tastes like
cardboard? This is an example of hybrid plants bred to grow fruit
that can ship well without being damaged. Not for flavor. Not for
nutrition. For sales!
! Economy:
Probably the best reason for growing heirloom squash is that
you can save the seeds from year to year, keeping the history
alive quite literally. Some of these seeds are quite rare, so
sharing them is a great way to spread the news about how
wonderful these varieties are.
Heirloom squash is grown in the same way as hybrid squash
so there is no extra work involved in growing a little piece of
history. Ready to give it a try? Research the varieties you are
most interested in to see which ones will do best where you live.
Then order your seeds and start planting! There are many
sources for heirloom seeds including Baker Creek Heirloom
Seeds* and Seed Savers Exchange, so start your research there.
And be prepared to be surprised at the unique varieties
available.!
*Request the free 2015 Seed Catalog from

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds at link:
http://www.rareseeds.com/request-catalogUS/
Easy Ways To Keep Melons Pest-Free
Page 23
Mulches: According to the University of California,
mulches are very effective at managing the silverleaf
whitefly in cantaloupe crops. The California Melon
Research Advisory Board studied the use of both straw
mulch and reflective plastic mulch in melon crops. While
both of these mulches performed very well, the reflective
plastic mulch produced the best results. Reflective plastic
mulch reflects ultraviolet wavelengths that repel flying
aphids and whiteflies. Proper installation of this mulch is
also critical to optimally benefit your melon crop.
By April Dowling on DavesGarden.com, May 2014
Growing melons is a rewarding experience that largely depends on

pest management. Whether you want to grow a small melon patch or
several acres of melons, its crucial to learn methods of controlling pests
due to the high growing costs.
Growers are often adamant about properly managing their melon
crops and preventing pest contamination. Since a melon's quality is
linked to the fruit's sugar content, stress must be taken off the plant
during its growing season. Pest infestations put stress on melon plants,
reducing their yield and quality. There are many different types of pests
that damage melon plants, and insecticides are typically required to
control these insects and protect melon crops from destruction. Aside
from insecticides, other easy pest control methods are available for
growers.
Soil Preparation: Proper soil preparation is an important aspect of
keeping melons free of cutworms and other pests. At least two weeks
before planting melons, it's important to destroy all remaining plant
residue from previous crops. Deep plowing well in advance (around two
weeks) can be effective at preventing many pests such as the seedcorn
maggot and cutworm. You should also avoid planting melon seeds in
areas coming out of pasture.
Planting: To keep leafminers, beet armyworms, and field crickets away,
avoid planting melons in weedy areas and locations near alfalfa, cotton,
and sudangrass. This is especially important when dealing with fall
melons. In general, most insect pests of melons migrate from nearby
crops and weed hosts, so it's very important to consider the location of
your melon crop. Also remember to avoid transplanting melons after
Cole crops, root crops, and fall tomatoes. Planting melon seeds in welldrained soil is very important for pest control, as well.
Weed Control: Once you've planted your melon crop, keeping it well
maintained is essential to warding off pests. One of the best ways to
prevent pests is by keeping nearby field margins and ditches free of
weeds. Controlling weeds can help prevent cutworms and darkling
beetles, which migrate from surrounding weedy areas. Mulching,
healthy soil management, tilling, and old-fashioned hoeing are the
safest ways to control weeds surrounding melons, while more intensive
weed-control measures are often required for ditches and field margins.
Crop Maintenance: Keeping a close eye on your melon

crop is very essential to preventing pests. Carefully
observe your plants daily, inspecting the shoot growth,
leaves, blossoms, and fruit from all angles. Check for
signs of pest infestation, which can include unusual color
changes and growth patterns to name a few. Building
melon plants' tolerance to certain pests is another effective
method of melon crop maintenance. For example, in the
southwest United States, proper irrigation and fertilization
management can significantly reduce spider mite
infestation in melon plants.!
!
Page 24
MASTER GARDENER MONTHLY MEETING: July 9, 2014

Notetaker: Sue Styer, Certified MG # Introduction and Welcome - Jeff Anderson
COMMITTEE/P ROJECT REPORTS

Introduction and Welcome - Jeff Anderson began by noting the MGs that are ill:
Juliet Williams was in the hospital over the weekend. She will be incapacitated for a while.
James Crouse is dealing with some health issues and will travel to Houston for medical services.
Louis Worley will be dealing with his own and family health issues for the next several months.
MG Hotline (Jeff Anderson) Jeff is looking for a substitute for the next three months to fill in for Louis. This involves filling in the calendar, checking
the calendar so be certain there is staffing etc. Also please note that several gardening reference books have been added to the Hotline Library. These
have been purchased or donated. Ann Shine-Ring agreed to catalog these books and create lists for them.
MG Magazine (Ann Shine-Ring) Planned articles for the August 2014 Magazine were:
Plant of the Month:
Quaking Aspen Tree
Water-Wise Plant of the Month: Blue Chalk Plants
Articles of Interest: Caring for Succulents, Shasta Daises, Our Lords Candle Yucca, and Sustainability of Golf Courses
Pests:
West Nile Virus
Wildlife:
All About Ducks
Veggies/Fruit:
Heirloom Squash, Growing Pest-Free Melons, Okra, drying herbs and preparing herb-flavored oils
Invasive Weed:
Alfombria
Rangeland Grasses: Halls Panicgrass and Vine Mesquite
Books:
Wildlife Friendly Vegetable Gardener
COMMUNITY GARDENS
Gomez:
Sherm Levenson and Russ Boor have scheduled a meeting with the city to talk about the ongoing soil problem. This issue
needs to be rectified in order for the gardens to prosper.
Munson Center:
Sherm Levenson mentioned that these gardens are growing like weeds. The biggest problems are working in concert with
the seniors and pest control as there are squirrel issues--they eat the beautiful produce. Tony and Nancy are doing a good
job in spite of the difficulty in organizing all the volunteers. Overall these gardens are very successful.
Hospice:
The gardens are doing well and the irrigation system is working. In the spring we will have to find a new nursery to provide
plants at a discount with a billing option since Enchanted Gardens closed.
Bosque:
Gardens there are holding their own.
The Backyard
Beekeeper's
Community Gardens Education: Russ Boor proposed that we need to put something together to explain different
aspects of gardening
including
Honey
Handbook:
how to prepare the soil ahead of planting time so it is ready to grow when the seeds are planted (compost etc. takes time to break down). There is
A Guide to Creating,
so much interest in this topic right now and more community gardens will be started in the fall. Jeff said this would be a good write up for the
& Cooking
with
newspaper. Roberta mentioned a class on container gardening etc. would be good for apartment dwellers etc. JeffHarvesting,
has done a class
on container
Natural Honeys
gardening last spring for the Home and Garden show.
Author:
Kimwater
Flottum
Mesilla Valley Bosque (Joan Woodward)- MV Bosque is working with Dutch researchers on wick-type planting. This involves
using
boxes for
Crestline
places where it is hard to supply irrigation. Groasis waterboxx is one of the water boxes available. Information is found onPublisher:
the Internet
at
www.groasis.com. The Bosque is also celebrating the recent changes allowing people to sell their water rights to others.
Updates on the trees of the
!
Bosque Nova show that since the river is down considerably, that 30-50 of the trees have died. However there is an understory of plant life coming
up. They are working with Ewing to install 12,000 feet of drip irrigation for times when the river water is not available.
OTHER ISSUES:
MG Shirts/Caps Sherm reported that these items would be delivered today. After the meeting you may pick up them up from Kari Getkin.
Southern New Mexico State Fair October 1-5, 2014 Veterans Bldg. 9am-9pm every day- David and Gail Ross noted that they have signup
sheets in the back for shifts during this event. We will have an additional booth at the fair this year with information on gardening. Since this event
is our opportunity as MGs with our greatest public exposure, we need to think ahead about seminars we may wish to present, decoration (Ruth has
some people working on mobiles to hang over our area in the building) and about getting cut flowers and pots with flowers this year. We are in
charge of fruits, veggies and flora culture. The painting of the pegboard looks very nice.
Food Policy Council: Debra The Urban Agriculture working group is working on an Urban Agriculture Ordinance for the City of Las Cruces.
This would include guidelines for what is possible and allowable for gardening, livestock, farmer markets, etc. in the City. Information was handed
out and a template letter was included so we may write the Mayor or City Council to promote this endeavor.
R-Cubed (Joan Woodward) Composted pecan shells and manure is available at other times of the year other than just fall and spring.
Minutes Continued on Page 25
Page 25
July 9, 2014 Monthly MG Meeting MinutesContinued from Page 24
OLD/N EW/C ONTINUING PROJECTS:

4 H Contests State contest is July 15 in LC Gail, David and Linda have volunteered to help with this. Eileen also volunteered so we still need 2
more people. Please talk to Jeff, as Juliet is ill.
Onion Field Day July 16- 8 am 12pm Volunteers need to bring baked good made with onions. Jeff is bringing a cake and Gail is bringing
onion bread.
Native Plant Society of New Mexico Annual Conference August 1-2, 2014 Friday and Saturday events will be at the Canutillo High School,
6675 Desert Blvd. Information being passed around. Also available on line. There will be interesting classes and good information presented at the
event.
MG 2014 Student Classes The new Intern classes will be beginning on August 21 and run through December 11, 2014.
National Night Out August 5 Jeff commented that this is an annual family event from 5 pm for 3-4 hours where we give out information. We used
a popsicle craft in the past; if anyone has ideas for the craft please talk to Jeff.
Butterfly Flutterby August 16 from 8:15-12pm Hope Movsesian - Volunteers are needed for this event held at the Chihuahuan Nature Park and
sponsored by the Asombro Institute. Hope will schedule a craft day prior to the event. Please sign up in the back for the event.
NM MG State Meeting This event is held every two years and this year it will be in Los Alamos. Information is on the website about the speakers
and program. Signups are now.
Advanced Weather Spotters Class September 17, 2014 (9:00am 11:30 am) Alberta Morgan explained that in order to take this class you must
have taken the basic class and you must bring your weather spotter station # to the class. If you are currently in a class, you may also attend. She
also thanked the CoCoRaHS participants because the information that is provided by the participants is going to more groups than ever before. This
information is critical to saving people, property etc. It is also beneficial if we report the rain as it is occurring so they can see what is happening on a
real time basis. On August 12, 2014 there will be a class in Deming they havent had one for a year.
Thank you to Solange & Eric Graham, Eileen Roberts and Marjie Snell for providing our meeting refreshments.
EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM: Ornamental Chiles

PRESENTER: Danice Coon, Senior Research Specialist, Chile Pepper Institute
"
NEXT MONTHLY MEETING, WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH
AT BRANIGAN LIBRARY, ROADRUNNER ROOM
Our meeting time is 9:15am to 11:30am
MASTER GARDENER HOTLINE DUTY

As of September 11, 2013, per MG request, Hotline duty signups will no longer
be listed in this Magazine. As of 1/8/14, we now can sign up for Hotline Duty online
at the same website location where we now record our Volunteer Service hours.
Connect to link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/county/donaana/mastergardener/ and
click on Volunteer Hours Logging and you can click on either:
Go to my log sheets or Go to my Calendar
We are very grateful to Eric Graham, Certified MG, for donating many
hours to create this great new resource for MGs. Thank you!
IMPORTANT: Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG forgets, please give him or her a
reminder call. Be sure to get a copy of the Subs List, for your information.
As of Monday, March 11, 2013, the Doa Ana County Extension Office hours changed to 9am12 for
receiving public phone calls and office visits Monday through Friday. However, Hotline volunteers will still be
on duty from 9am to 1pm on Tuesdays and Fridays.
URGENT:
We need at least 2 MGs at each Hotline Day, but please no more than four MG volunteers max as there is not
enough room in the Hotline Office. Please consider volunteering for at least one, four-hour assignment to
ensure we have adequate coverage for our Hotline. Thank you for your help.

Master Gardeners at Mesilla Valley Bosque, Doña Ana County, Arizona, Use Groasis Waterboxx To Save Water

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2

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine

Doa Ana County

Vol. 15, Issue 8

Raising Shasta Daisies

Wildlife Friendly Vegetable Gardener (Book)

Did You Know? All About Ducks

West Nile Virus: Info For New Mexico

Our Lords Candle Yucca

Invasive/Noxious Weeds: Alfombrilla

Vegetable & Fruit Articles

MG Monthly Meeting Minutes

MG Hotline Duty Information

Five Tips For Growing Succulents

August Honey-Do List

Master Gardener Hotline Contact Data

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

Quaking AspenContinued from Front Page

Quaking Aspen Tree FACTS

Aspen Drooping Catkins

INTERESTING INFORMATION ABOUT ASPENS:

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

QUAKING ASPEN TREE

Aspen Can Be A Troublesome Tree by Robert Cox, Horticulture

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

Water-Wise Plant of the Month

BLUE CHALK PLANTS

Senecio serpens (w/white-tufted flowers)

Senecio mandrailiscae or talinoides (w/yellow-tufted flowers)

WATER-WISE PLANT OF THE MONTH!

Asteraceae (Daisy Family)

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

Five Tips for Growing Succulents

The above plant is an example of a succulent that is

#3 LOTS OF SUNLIGHT: Succulents need a lot of

#4 PROPAGATE: One of my favorite things about

Pachyveria Moon Glow

#2 WELL-DRAINING SOIL: So, I just told you succulents need infrequent

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

Blue Chalk Plant Continued From Page 3

BLUE CHALK PLANT

Blue Chalk Plant Care & Maintenance by James

Ms. Tuttle has written an E-Book entitled, Propagating Succulents which

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

Becky Shasta Daisy

Sunny Side Up Shasta Daisy

Light Up Your Garden With Shasta Daisies SummerLong Blooms

Crazy Shasta Daisy

--White Is Alright: For the most part, white is

Sunshine Shasta Daisy

Crazy Daisy Shasta Daisy

Cogham Gold Daisy

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

How to Grow Food in Harmony with Nature

Ox-Eye Daisy (Invasive & Noxious Weed)

Care & Maintenance of Shastas

Anyone who has ever planted and maintained a backyard

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

Honey-Do List for August 2014

FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014

Honey-Do List for August 2014Continued

Doa Ana County Master Gardener Monthly MagazineAugust 2014