YARN COUNT &YARN

MODIFICATION

YARN COUNT/YARN SIZE/ YARN

NUMBER

The count of a yarn is

a numerical
expression which
defines its Fineness
It can also be called Yarn number or
Linear Density.

The different systems of expressing the yarn

number are:
1. DIRECT SYSTEM
2. UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OR TEX SYSTEM
3. INDIRECT SYSTEM

Theses systems depends on the material used for

preparing the yarn are

DIRECT SYSTEM =
weight per unit of length of
yarn

INDIRECT SYSTEM =
length per unit of weight of
yarn

DIRECT SYSTEM (Denier)

The denier of the yarn is the
number of unit of weight per
unit of length.
The unit of length remains constant.
This system is used for silk, jute and
manmade fibers.
Weight in
The smaller the
number, finer the
Grams
yarn.
Length in 9000
m

Denier =

UNIVERSAL SYSTEM (Tex)

Tex system can be used from fiber to yarn stage.
This is a direct system of yarn numbering.
It is applicable to both natural and synthetic yarns.
Tex is defined as the weight of the yarn in grams
present in 1000 m or 1 km length.
Tex=
Grams
or 1 km

Weight

in

Length in 1000 m

INDIRECT SYSTEM (Count)

Count is the number of units of length per

unit of weight of yarn.

The unit of weight remains constant.

It is used for cotton, wool, worsted yarns and

linen etc.

The lower the count ,the coarser the yarn.

This system is also referred as Cotton system.

The count of the yarn is defined as number of

hanks to a pound.

INDIRECT SYSTEM
Several indirect systems are used in practice
depending on the type of yarn produced, and the
spinning system.

Cotton count
Wool count
Worsted count
Metric count

Cotton Count

For cotton yarns, the English or cotton

count is used to express yarn fineness.

The unit of length in an English count

system is the hank, 840 yd, and the unit of
weight is 1 lb.
No. of (840 yards) / 1 pound

An example of Indirect System

If 40 Hanks each containing 840 yards of the yarn

weigh 1 lb, then the yarn count is 40 and will be
expressed as 40s where s stands for singles.

If yarns of different count are twisted each count

is mentioned, as for e.g. 20/30s indicates twisting
together of a single 20s yarn and single 30s yarn.

Woolen /Worsted Count

For wool yarns, two indirect systems are
commonly used:
(i) the Woolen system, and
(ii) the Worsted system.

In the Woolen system, the unit length

(or the hank) is 256 yards, and the unit
of weight is pound.

In the Worsted system, the unit length

(or the hank) is 560 yards, and the unit
of weight is pound.

Metric System
"Metric"

system is commonly
used in Europe.

In

this system, the unit length is

kilometer, and the unit of mass is
kg.

System

Formula

Direct: weight per unit of length of yarn

Denier

Weight in Grams/9000 m length

Tex

Weight in Grams/1000 m length

Indirect: length per unit of weight of yarn

Cotton Count

No. unit length (840 yards) / 1

pound

Wool Count

No. unit length (256 yards) / 1

pound

Worsted Count

No. unit length (560 yards) / 1

pound

Metric count

No. unit length (1 km) / 1 kg

Yarn count conversion formula:

Fiber to Yarn Conversion System

Beesley Balances

Study of the relation of count and G.S.M

GSM:
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.

S/J
Count

S/J

GSM

Count

GSM

22

220

30

160

24

180

30

190

24

180

30

150

24

160

30

160

26

160

30

180

26

180

34

140

26

170

34

140

28

140

40

120

28

180

40

120

28

160

40

110

28

155

50

100

30

140

50

90

30

150

S/J Lycra
Actual count

Double Lacost
Count

GSM
30.0266

245

24

220

30.0266

200

24

220

30.0266

200

24

220

30.0266

200

24

220

30.0266

230

26

220

30.0266

210

26

160

30.0266

210

30.0266

200

34.0266

165

34.0266

165

34.0266

190

34.0266

165

40.0266

145

40.0266
40.0266

Interlock
Count

GSM
46

172

46

172

40

195

40

195

34

230

150

36

200

150

36

220

1 X 1 Rib
Count

GSM

1 X 1 Rib

GSM

Count

2X2 Rib

GSM

22

255

30

220

22

190

30

200

24

240

30

190

24

180

30

220

24

230

30

180

26

240

30

230

26

230

30

230

28

220

34

170

28

200

34

180

28

200

34

180

28

220

34

195

28

230

Count

GSM
28

220

28

220

28

320

28.0076

300

Equations at a glance

Fabric

Constants

Single jersey

y = -3.3465x + 256.56

Single jersey lycra

y = -6.6089x + 407.04

Single lacoste

y = -5.695x + 340.59

Double lacoste

y = -15x + 580

11 Rib

y = -4.496x + 342.35

22 Rib

y = 6140.4x 171676

Interlock

y = -4.3074x + 368.78

Yarn Modification

Processing of yarns
Yarn

processing is the first series of

operation
The steps varies for different fibers
In making fiber into yarns there are two
types of processes

1- General process- Common to many yarn

2- Texturizing process- To obtain special
textured
effect,extra
(5)
bulk,stretch

2. Texturizing process impartsa). a permanent loop, curl or crimp to

individual filament
b). more opaque
c). have a different appearance or feel
warmth
d). more absorbent
e). non-pilling quality
f). greater durability
g). moisture absorbent

filament yarnsbulk yarns

methods of adding texture/bulk:
false-twist process
draw-texturing
stuffer box
air-jet
knit-deknit

Single yarn
(Product of
first
twisting
operation)

Ply yarn
(Product of
second
twisting
operation)

Cord
(Product of
third
twisting
operation)

(10)

2. Novelty yarn Made for their appearance

value.
Irregular in size, twist and effect.
Has three basic parts1. The ground or foundation
2. The fancy or effect
3. The binder
That are loose and bulky give crease
resistance to fabric.
Add interest to plain weave fabric.
If used in one direction, usually in filling
direction.

(11)

Different type of novelty yarns:-

1-Slub Yarn

2- Flock Yarn

3-Spiral Yarn

(12)

4-Ratine Yarn

5-Boucle
Yarn

7-Core Spun Yarn

8Metallic Yarn
9-Chenille Yarn
(14)

SLUB YARN
A

slub yarn is one in which slubs

have been deliberately created to
produce the desired discontinuity of
effect.
Slubs are thick places in the yarn.

39

FLECK YARN
Small

amounts of fibres of either

different colours or lustre or both are
introduced into the yarn.
This gives it a spotted and short
streaky appearance

40

SNARL YARN
It

is same as loop yarns except that

the looping yarn has high twist so
that the
Loop turns into a snarl

41

LOOP YARN
A

loop yarn consists of a core with an

effect yarn wrapped around it
and overfed so as to produce almost
circular projections on its surface.
As a general rule, four yarns are
involved, of which two form the core
or ground yarns.

42

BOUCLE YARN
This is a compound yarn comprising a
twisted core with an effect yarn
combined with it so as to produce
wavy projections on its surface.

43

spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied

yarn that displays a characteristic
smooth spiraling of one component
around the other.
it can be produced relatively simply
on a doubling frame or under the
ring spinning system.

44

bulk yarn
yarn name:
boucle
yarn type:
spun
twist direction:
S
amount of twist:
low
yarn appearance:
texturized
fiber content:
100% acrylic
end uses:

yarn name:
4-ply
yarn type:
spun
twist direction:
S
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
carded woolen
fiber content:
86% acrylic
10% wool
4% rayon
end uses:

blended yarn

combination yarn
yarn name:
hand quilting thread
yarn type:
spun & filament
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
high
yarn appearance:
combed
fiber content:
68% polyester (core)
32% cotton
end uses:

blended yarn
yarn name:
textured
yarn type:
combination
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
texturized
fiber content:
52% acrylic
48% nylon
end uses:

combination ya
yarn name:
4 ply with metallic
yarn type:
spun & monofilament
twist direction:
Z
amount of twist:
medium
yarn appearance:
combed
fiber content:
97% mercerized cotton
3% metallic filament
end uses:

On the basis of special

use

Some special used yarns are:-

1- Sewing thread

2- Embroidery

(25)

(8)