Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Merchandising Process Product Development TA
Merchandising Process Product Development TA
Product Development
Time and Action Calender
July 2009
(meaning:
the
Ensuring all products meet the specified testing parameters as laid down by
the buyer / customer.
Approval on fabric quality, color, shade banding and also approval on trims.
Capacity planning for the season (in coordination with the production
departments)
In some cases merchandisers are expected to supervise design and
development activities as part of the account management of strategic
customers.
UNDP
Page 1 of 25
1.3.
RECEIVE DESIGN
PRODUCTION
INDICATIONS FROM
PLANNING
RAW MATERIAL
SOURCING
DEVELOP DESIGN
SAMPLE APPROVALS
PILOT RUN
CUTTING
SEWING
FINISHING
RECEIPT OF ORDER
PACKING
SHIPMENT TRACKING
SHIPMENT AUDIT
TESTING
PRE-PRODUCTION
CONFIRMATION
MEETING
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
UNDP
PRE-PRODUCTION
Page 2 of 25
PRODUCTION
LOGISTICS
2. PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
2.1. Introduction
The apparel industry is dominated by numerous small to medium sized businesses
and product development is vital to the survival and success of any business
whatever its size or type of production. The future of textiles & apparel depends
on companies adding value to their products and/or services. Companies need to
understand the product development process and to control quality and costs.
Larger organizations may have departments devoted to the research and
development of products or design departments who are constantly producing new
products and ranges. However the product development process is just as important
for smaller organizations and SMEs.
Page 3 of 25
products such as knitwear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products and
technical and medical products.
Despite the diversity of textile products the development process is similar for all
and the process has been transformed by the increasing use of CAD/CAM,
computer aided design and computer aided manufacturing. These enable new ideas
and effects to be reproduced on computer and tried and tested in a most cost
effective and visually acceptable way.
The product development process can be splits into three main phases.
Phase 3 - Once the finalized product specification has been drawn up, the
third and final phase commences. This includes a range of activities that are
carried out before large scale or bulk production can begin. This final stage
includes sourcing production capacity outside the home producer/developer
where this is applicable.
UNDP
Page 4 of 25
Research
& review
market
trends
Create
line by
brand,
color,
theme &
store
set
Receive &
Discuss
discuss
corporate
strategic
information
No
Product
Engineering
Inputs
Communicate
range/color/
theme palate
Execute
design
concepts
Develop
financial line
plans and
reconcile with
corporate plan
Communicate
allproduct
productline
all
line
selections
Product /
line
assortment
Report
report
Manufacturing package
Review/
approve raw
material
options from
vendors
Ensure product
alignment
between target
consumer, brand
strategies
Concepts
&
materials
approved
Design
labeling
and
packaging
samples
Determine
/select bill of
materials
Yes
Research
& develop
raw
materials
Select &
consolidate
common
raw
materials
across
divisions
Investigate
preliminary
sourcing
options
Develop initial
product
specifications
Help
provide
raw
material
options
from
vendors
Determine item
information,
retail price &
sizes, target
costs, units,
required
delivery dates
Identify target
vendors based
on research,
prior
performance
and sourcing
strategy
Vendor
report and
database
Product
Engineering
concepts
Page 5 of 25
Pre-cost
product
Yes
Research
new
vendors to
support
corporate
sourcing
strategy
UNDP
Product raw
material,
specs and initial
costing sheets
Send product
specification/
pack to
vendors
Decide
how &
where
products
should
be
sourced
Research
& review
market
trends
Create
line by
brand,
color,
theme &
store set
Receive &
discuss
corporate
strategic
information
Communicate
range/color/
theme palate
Develop
financial line
plans and
reconcile with
corporate plan
Communica
te all
product line
selections
Product /
line
assortment
report
Activity
Research and review
market trends
Performed By
Designer
Output
Fashion and Color
Forecasting
Designer
Communicate
range/color/ theme palate
Designer, Merchandiser
Executive Director,
Business Manager
Executive Director,
Business Manager
Investments and
Dividends analysis along
with product strategy
Business Manager,
Product Manager,
Operations Manager
UNDP
Page 6 of 25
Execute
design
concepts
Review/
approve raw
material options
from vendors
Ensure product
alignment between
target consumers,
brand strategies
Concepts
&
Materials
Approved
Yes
Research &
develop
raw
materials
Research
new vendors
to support
corporate
sourcing
strategy
Select &
consolidate
common raw
materials
across
divisions
Investigate
preliminary
sourcing
options
Vendor
report and
database
UNDP
Page 7 of 25
Develop initial
product
specifications
Help
provide
raw
material
options
from
vendors
Activity
Performed By
Output
Product Engineering
Inputs
Product Technologist
Execute design
concepts
Providing outline to
design concepts
Review/approve raw
material options from
suppliers
Product Manager,
Merchandiser, Designer,
Product Technologist
Ensure product
alignment between
target consumer,
brand strategies
Final product
identification
Merchandiser, Sourcing
Executive
Development of raw
material and supplier
database
UNDP
Page 8 of 25
Manufacturing Package
Design labeling
and packaging
samples
Pre-cost
Product
Determine /select
bill of materials
Send product
specification/ pack
to vendors
Determine item
information, price
tickets & sizes, target
costs, units, required
delivery dates
UNDP
Product engineering
concepts
Page 9 of 25
Activity
Performed By
Output
Product Manager,
Merchandisers, Product
Technologist
Merchandiser
Product Engineering
concepts
Product Technologist
Details on garment
construction specifications
and manufacturing
requirements
Merchandiser
Merchandiser, Sourcing
Executive
UNDP
Page 10 of 25
COMPETITION
TECHNOLOGY
NEW PRODUCTS
SOCIAL INFLUENCES
CONSUMER SPENDING
POWER
THE
COMPANY
FASHION TRENDS
CONSUMER
ENVOIRNMENTAL FACTORS
UNDP ASPECTS
FINANCIAL
Page 11 of 25
GOVERNMENT
LEGISLATION
INTERNATIONAL
LEGISLATION
Spring
Summer
Fall
Holiday
The shipping calendar months for each of the seasons work out to be as follows.
Spring shipping in the month of October, November & December and thus sale
of goods in January, February & March.
Summer - shipping in the month of January, February & March and thus sale of
goods in April, May & June.
Fall - shipping in the month of April, May & June and thus sale of goods in July,
August & September.
Holiday - shipping in the month of July, August & September and thus sale of
goods in October, November & December.
UNDP
Page 12 of 25
Buyers pick up designs and style allocation is done. Meaning to say that all
designs picked up are now associated with a style.
Desk looms, prints, blankets, sample yardages and lab dips are developed
with the mill based on buyers advice. In most of the cases buyer sends
across a pitch sheet depicting the color combinations required.
Pitch Sheet this is a document which provides all information regarding the
print / design.
In case of a print this sheet provides the print size, repeat pattern,
and the colors being used for each individual design on the print. The
color can either be specified by Pantone color shade numbers or by small
fabric swatches.
In case of a yarn dyed fabric the pitch sheet details the design repeat
size and the colors being used in warp and weft.
The lab dips, desk looms, blankets, sample yardages are sent to buyer for
approval. This process may take 1 round or more based on the design & color
accuracy of the submissions.
Garment and fabric performance tests are also done as specified by buyer.
Standard setting of sample yardage is a very important procedure.
Whenever there is a new fabric being developed, the defect standards as
apparent on the sample yardage should be logged with the buyer. There are
certain characteristics of all fabric and certain defects that cannot be
avoided; such defects should be logged with buyer.
Development Spec Package - While the fabrics are being developed and
reviewed by buyer for approvals, simultaneously spec packages for the garment
styling are received from buyer. These spec packages have the garment sketch,
measurements, construction details, trim details and specific requirement (if
any).
The spec packages are forwarded to factories for development of samples.
Page 13 of 25
T&A (Time and action calendar) - the T&A sent to buyer at this stage is a
general T&A developed for one season. Since each of the seasons has 3
months, this T&A states the delivery schedule considering 1st week of
each month, and hence is a general T&A for the season.
The costing advised has to be very accurate as this is the costing at which the
order is confirmed. Only in case of a drastic change in styling or fabric is the
costing revised at a later stage.
Line Building And Line Review this is the date on which the buyer decides on
all the styles that are to be selected for a season. On this date the buyer
reviews samples from all sourcing countries along with T&A and costing and the
final assortment for the season is planned. The final assortment has all details
style, fabric details, garment cost, delivery schedule, order quantity, sourcing
country and factory. This assortment sheet is sent out to all vendors to confirm
the orders.
Once the actual delivery dates and costing are confirmed with the buyer and
the vendor, a Fabric commitment / Purchase order is received from buyer.
FC (fabric commitment or Purchase order) is a legal document confirming the
order.
UNDP
Sample yardage is required to log with the customer any potential problems
that are foreseen in bulk production of the fabric. The sample yardage is
also used for testing purpose and for making the PROTO samples for line
review.
While developing the lab dips, desk looms, sample yardage the product
development team has to work closely with the mill and set up a T&A to
follow up the activities with the mill.
The lab dips and desk looms and sample yardage as submitted by mill are
reviewed by the product development team for color matching, print
registration, design layout and repeat and hand feel before sending the
same to buyer for approval. This is a very critical activity as a lot of time is
lost is achieving the desired color & print or design pattern as required by
the buyer and hence requires active follow up and monitoring.
Testing of fabric is also a very important activity. The product development
team should make sure that the fabric adheres to all the testing
requirements as laid down by the buyer. In case the fabric does not adhere
some of the testing requirements, this should be made apparent to the
buyer. While doing so the product development team should make sure that
similar substitutes or options which pass the testing standards are
presented to buyer so that there is a choice available for selection of fabric
/ design etc.
All limitations with regards to fabric quality print and color should also be
conveyed to buyer along with options. This enables buyers to take a rational
decision while doing the Line Building and Line Review for the season.
Page 15 of 25
Development track report this report provides a detail on style, fabric, sample
yardage / lab dip/ desk loom exit and approval due dates, trim and sample status,
Costing advised and remarks. The remarks column should list down the fabric and
sample limitations if any.
A Development Track Report is available in the Annexure. This report covers all the
above stated details however; the report may differ from buyer to buyer
considering the information that the buyer wishes to review.
Weekly updates of this report should be sent to buyer to communicate the status
instead of lengthy e-mails.
Lab dip / desk loom submission form this is a form which should be used while
sending out the lab dips / desk looms for approval. This Form is available in the
Annexure.
This form has details of Buyer, Season, Design name, Fabric details (count,
construction, GSM, cuttable width, fabric price, submission date, approval due date,
comments column (to be filled by the colorist who has reviewed the color / design)
Colorist a colorist is a person who is trained to review colors under different light
sources. To become a colorist, one has to pass a Munsel Test.
Product Costing
Product costing is a very important activity and utmost care should be taken while
advising the costs to the buyer. The costs advised should be very accurate so as to
fit into buyer targets also should provide the vendor with adequate profit
realizations.
A sample cost sheet is available in the Annexure, which presents the components
that should be taken care while costing a product.
CM cost this should be calculated based on operating costs / SAM (Standard
Allowed Minutes). SAM of garments are derived by Industrial Engineering
department
UNDP
Page 16 of 25
UNDP
Page 17 of 25
Are we on time?
Are all work steps happening the way they should?
UNDP
Page 18 of 25
Networking - it is often assumed that T&A is like a linear chain, however the
actual calendar is a network with diverging and converging tasks. This means
that one task can trigger multiple parallel tasks and completion of multiple tasks
can lead to one task. Hence it is important to chart out the network of activities
to be able to determine the critical path and the critical activities.
Setting due dates for the activities it is a common practice to set the duration
of each activity in number of days. There is a problem area here:Firstly, it is often not clarified whether those days are working days or
calendar days.
Secondly, apart from the weekend there are numerous other holidays, which do
not get accounted.
Hence it is prudent to create ones own calendar with holidays built-in and then
generate realistic due dates in time & action calendar.
Case 4
Let us now analyze the above points by means of an example. Some of the critical
activities involved in execution of an order are taken into consideration in this
example. Also the time and action calendar has been worked backwards from the
delivery date and lead time for each of these activities has been assumed as per
the chart given below:
Activity
A
Description
Delivery date
Duration
Production start
30 days prior to
delivery date
C
D
Fabric in-house
date
Trim in-house date
5 days prior to
Production start
5 days prior to
Production start
60 days prior to
Fabric in-house
45 days prior to
trim in-house
20 days prior to
Production start
UNDP
Page 19 of 25
Dependency
Determined by
buyer
Order qty,
production
capacity per day &
factory capacity.
Production start
date
Production start
date
Fabric lead time &
approval
Trim lead time &
approval
Production start
date
Fitting start
Order
confirmation
Let us now give dates to the above activities to be able to visualize the Time &
Action calendar and draw the critical path.
A 30th Dec 2009
B 30th Nov 2009
C 25th Nov 2009
D 25th Nov 2009
E 25th Sep 2009
F 10th Oct 2009
G 10th Nov 2009
H 10th Oct 2009
I 23rd Sep 2009
The above illustration clearly defines the critical path and also enables us to
ascertain the activities, which can be performed in parallel. The below analysis can
be done from the illustration.
Activity E falls in the critical path since fabric lead-time is the largest.
Activity F & H can start simultaneously but are not in the critical path. This
does not mean that they are not important OR with out completion of these
activities (represented by D & G) the goods can be produced, BUT it only means
that a small delay in these activities will not impact the delivery date.
NOTE in case activities D & G are delayed beyond C, the delivery date will be
impacted.
As per the above example all activities D, C & G need to be completed in order
to proceed to B.
Similar to the above example a detailed Time & Action calendar can be developed
which includes all activities that are preformed during the entire order cycle. As
explained above, it is important to ascertain the critical path (especially when the
T&A has numerous activities).
UNDP
Page 20 of 25
Also, by creating a critical path chart we are able to know the dependency between
activities. A copy of T&A calendar is available in the Annexure.
Forward planning
A 30th Dec 2009
B 30th Nov 2009
C 25th Nov 2009
D 10th Nov 2009
E 25th Sep 2009
F 25th Sep 2009
G 23rd Oct 2009
H 23rd Sep 2009
I 23rd Sep 2009
As you can see from the above, there is no difference in the critical path of the
T&A. However dates for some other activities have changed. In all the highlighted
cases the activities have got advanced in the forward planning as compared to
backward planning.
The backward plan provides the last date / deadline date by which the task
needs to be completed in order to be able to maintain delivery.
Hence the backward plan help monitoring the order, as the user is always aware
of the deadlines that are to be met. The task could be started earlier and could
be completed earlier, as long as it is completed before the deadline date the
delivery is intact.
This method of monitoring the order serves a very handy tool especially if there
are large no of orders to be executed, since it is more important to know the
deadline dates which will impact the order delivery.
Page 21 of 25
More and more companies are using moving towards use of software in order
management. Here are some of the features and benefits that good software
should offer.
UNDP
Page 22 of 25
UNDP
Page 23 of 25