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Gap Inc.

Gap
Banana Republic
Old Navy

0DUFKVW

To All Gap, Inc. Vendors,


Attached is the February 2001 QA Manual for Garments, for use as a guide to auditing all Gap
Inc. programs. Following is an outline of the changes that were made from the previous version of
the manual:

In-line and Interim inspections have been combined and are now called In-process
inspections.
Forms have been changed to global forms.
Country of Origin information is no longer included in the QA manual the information is
in the Vendor handbook.
Shipment/Packing audit has changed to allow for non-destructive audits.
Added bar-coded ticket OCR ticket/label check into visual audit.
Measurement sampling plan has changed.
Pack audits are now the responsibility of the Vendor.
Change in the sampling plan for outlet.
We have eliminated the double sampling plan.
We have added a section for how to audit tight fitting sleepwear.

It is imperative to retrain your teams and utilize the new handbook effective March 1st, 2001 to
audit our products.
Should you have any questions please contact me directly at (415) 427-6489.

Doreen Maller
Vice President, Technical Services/Product Integrity/Global QA

Quality Assurance Manual


Garments
2001
(A Supplement to the Vendor Handbook)

Table of Contents
page #

Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 4
Contacts................................................................................................................................. 5

I.

Factory Visit Procedures


Preparation .................................................................................................................... 7

II.

Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)


What is A.Q.L.? ............................................................................................................ 8
Gap Inc.s A.Q.L. Standards ....................................................................................... 8
Critical Defects ........................................................................................................... 8
Result of Finding A Critical Defect .......................................................................... 8

III.

In-Process Inspection
Purpose........................................................................................................................... 9
In-Process Inspection Forms ..................................................................................... 9
Cutting Inspection Procedures ................................................................................. 9
Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures.................................................................... 10

IV. Shipment Inspection


Purpose........................................................................................................................... 12
Shipment Inspection Forms ....................................................................................... 12
Shipment Inspection Methods................................................................................... 12
Measurement Audit ..................................................................................................... 13
Measurement Audit Procedures....................................................................... 13
Snug Fitting Sleepwear Measurement Audit Procedures ........................ 13
Measurement Audit Sampling Plan ................................................................... 14
Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects ......................................... 14
Visual Audit.................................................................................................................... 15
Visual Audit Methods........................................................................................... 15
Visual Audit Reference Sheets (Classification of Visual Defects).............. 15
Visual Audit Sampling Plans ................................................................................ 15
Visual Audit Procedures...................................................................................... 16
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits .............................................. 18
Gap/Old Navy Procedures................................................................................. 18
Banana Republic Procedures.............................................................................. 19
Gap Asia Auditing Procedures.................................................................................. 19
Seconds & Overruns ................................................................................................... 19
Pack Audit...................................................................................................................... 20
Pack Audit Procedures........................................................................................ 20
Pack Audit Sampling Plan .................................................................................... 21
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs .............................................................. 22
Full Carton/CD Flow Auditing Procedures.................................................... 22
Japanese Purchase Order Auditing Procedures.................................................... 23
Outlet Division Standards.......................................................................................... 24
Outlet Auditing Forms................................................................................................ 24
Table of Contents
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Table of Contents (cont)


page #
Outlet Auditing Types................................................................................................. 24
Outlet Auditing Procedures ...................................................................................... 24
Seconds & Overruns ................................................................................................... 24
Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet ................................. 25
Outlet Defects Classification Guide..............................................................................25

V.

Safety Procedures
Safety Procedures, kids & baby................................................................................. 26

VI. Broken Needle Standards


Broken Needle Forms ................................................................................................ 27
Broken Needle Procedures....................................................................................... 27
Verification of Factorys Needle Control Procedures ........................................ 27

VII. Country of Origin


(Refer to Gap Inc.s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................ 29

VIII. Carton/Prepack
(Refer to Gap Inc.s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................ 30

IX. Appendix 1 (General Forms)


In-Process Inspection Report.................................................................................... AI-2
Visual Inspection Worksheet .................................................................................... AI-3
In-Process Audit Worksheet .................................................................................... AI-4
In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report............................................................... AI-5
Visual Inspection Report ............................................................................................ AI-6
Finished Product Measurement Sheet..................................................................... AI-8
Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops)....................................................... AI-9
Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms) ................................................ AI-10
Outlet Inspection Report........................................................................................... AI-11
Broken Needle Log ..................................................................................................... AI-12
Box Audit Worksheet ................................................................................................ AI-13

X.

Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects)


Woven and Knit Dresses / Jump-suits / Coats / Jackets .................................... AII-2
Knit Tops and Activewear ......................................................................................... AII-6
Woven Shirts ................................................................................................................ AII-10
Denim Shirts.................................................................................................................. AII-13
Sweaters ......................................................................................................................... AII-16
Woven Bottoms........................................................................................................... AII-18
Denim Bottoms ............................................................................................................ AII-22
Blazers............................................................................................................................. AII-26
Bras & Bodysuits........................................................................................................... AII-29
Underwear..................................................................................................................... AII-32

Table of Contents
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Introduction
The purpose of the Quality Assurance Manual is to outline the procedures Quality Assurance personnel (QA) follow when
measuring the over-all performance of vendors who manufacture Gap Inc. products. This Manual will guide QA through
each stage of their assignment: new production, monitoring production, performing In-process and shipment audits and,
finally, communicating findings to merchandising /production representatives.
In addition to serving as a guide for Gap Inc. QA, this Manual was created to ensure vendors understand Gap Inc.s
expectations in categories such as products visual appearance, measurement accuracy and packing execution.
This Manual is a useful resource for QA personnel, garment vendors and GIS offices that do business with
Gap Inc. Please familiarize yourself with the Manual in its entirety, paying close attention to Gap Inc.s quality standards
as well as the penalties resulting from failure to meet those standards.
If you have any questions regarding the standards and procedures included within this manual, please contact:
Gap Inc.
Attn: Diane Maclane
2 Harrison Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
phone: (415) 427-6470
This Manual is the property of Gap Inc. This proprietary information is provided in confidence and is solely for use in
connection with dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. While in your companys possession, the Manual is to be maintained
in strict confidence and must not be divulged to anyone other than those who need to know its contents for the purpose of
your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. The Manual shall be returned to Gap Inc. immediately upon cessation of your
dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors, or upon Gap Inc.s request.

Introduction
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Contacts
GIS Offices
GIS Americas:

Regional Director of Quality Assurance


5200 Blue Lagoon Drive
Miami, Florida
USA

GIS Hong Kong:

China Hong Kong City


21st and 22nd Floor, Tower 3
33 Canton Road
Tsimshatsui Kowloon
Hong Kong
Tel: 852.2.730.9883
Fax: 852.2.736.8903

GIS Egypt:

World Trade Center 1191


Corniche El Nil Cairo
Egypt

GIS Singapore:

No. 391B Orchard Road


#22-6/7/8/9 Ngee Ann City, Singapore
Tower B 238874
Tel: 65.734.0388
Fax: 65.733.5113

GIS Philippines:

3rd Floor Tesoro Bldg.


Amaiz Ave.
Makati City
Philippines

GIS Sri Lanka:

Level 6 Valiant Towers #46/7


Nawam Mawatha
Colombo 02
Sri Lanka

GIS Dubai:

LOB 20, G-60 Jebel Ali


Free Zone Dubai U.A.E.
Tel: 97.14.814.483
Fax: 97.14.814.788

GIS India:

India Liason Office A-8


Kailash Colony
New Delhi 110 048, India
Tel: 91.11.628.0951
Fax: 91.11.628.0978

Contacts
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2000

Contacts (cont)
GIS Istanbul:

Akmerkez B-3 Blok Kat 11


Etiler 80600, Istanbul, Turkey
Tel: 90.212.282.0420
Fax: 90.212.282.0417

GIS North Africa:

Route De Sousse
Telboulba, ZI 5080 Tunisia

GIS Thailand:

Unit 2308 Empire Tower


195 South Sathorn Road
Yannawa, Sathhorn
BKK 10120, Thailand
Tel: 662.6700.168.73
Fax: 662.6700.176

GIS South Africa:

Suite 2305-2307, 23rd floor


The Embassy Building
199 Smith Street
Durban 4001, South Africa
Tel: 27.31.335.2500
Fax: 27.31.368.2628

Contacts
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2000

I. Factory Visit Procedures


Preparation
Before visiting a factory, a QA representative must carry out the following:

Verify vendor is on Global Compliances approved vendor list.

Obtain factory contact name, phone number and address.

Obtain copies of Purchase Orders.

Secure fabric/yarn color swatches and/or hand and finish standards.

Obtain the approved sample.

Obtain manufacturing specifications, including Garment Specification Sheet (GSS).

Obtain all additional reports relative to production being inspected, such as memos and faxes
as well as product/fabric/component testing reports.

Obtain approved production schedules.

During initial visit, a QA representative must carry out the following:

Verify factory owns required machinery for attaching buttons (lock-stitch machines), snaps
(machines and snap supplier is on approved vendor list).

Verify factory has testing and in-house monitoring systems in place for safety and performance issues.

Verify factory has needle control procedures in place and maintains a current broken needle log.

Factory Visit Procedures


Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

II. Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)


What is A.Q.L.?
Acceptable Quality Level is the quality level, which, for purposes of sampling inspection, is the limit of a
satisfactory manufacturing process.

Gap Inc.s A.Q.L. Standards


Gap Inc.s A.Q.L. standards when appraising a vendors manufacturing process during shipment audits are as follows:

0.1 for appraising Critical Visual Defects


0.25 for OCR/Ticket Defects
4.0 or 2.5 for appraising Major Visual Defects (varies by division)
6.5 for appraising Minor Visual Defects
6.5 for appraising Major Measurement Defects

(Note: The selection or use of an A.Q.L. does not imply that the
contractor has the right to supply any defective unit of product).

Critical Defects
A Critical Defect is defined as anything potentially harmful to the product user. A Critical Defect can be, but is not limited to,
sharp points/edges, broken needles, loose components or other foreign items which are potentially harmful. Improper or
inaccurate country of origin or fiber, component content markings and CPSC snug fitting sleepwear measurements that are
greater than tolerance are also considered Critical Defects.

Result of Finding A Critical Defect


Visual
If a Critical Visual Defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected.
All Critical Visual Defects must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Measurement
Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS). It will
state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement page of the GSS,
measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.
Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side will
be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is less
than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or majors as stated in the measurement
audit procedures. All other measurement points (those not in capital letters) are counted as minors or majors as stated in the
measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1. If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the
audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the
lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)


Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

III. In-Process Inspection


Purpose
The purpose of an In-Process inspection is to check the following: raw materials, marker layout, spreading, cutting, sewing,
wet processing, screen printing, pressing and other embellishments. Sampling plan should not be used at this stage since a lot
size is a bundle. For woven and knit production, the first In-Process inspection begins when knitting/weaving commences.
While inspecting semi-finished goods and batches during work-in-process, records need be kept on defects found for
discussion and communication with the manufacturer/GIS production representatives.
The number of defects found during a cutting, measurement or visual inspection should be noted on the various In-Process
reports. It is not the purpose of the In-Process inspection to try and measure percent defective, but to identify potential
problems. These In-Process reports will be the basis for data collection and evaluation.

In-Process Inspection Forms


At relevant stages of the In-Process Inspection use the following forms:

In-Process Inspection Report


In-Process Audit Worksheet
In-Process Graphics Worksheet (optional)

An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note these forms must be
used as is during the In-Process Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane
Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Cutting Inspection Procedures


The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process cutting inspection:

Verify and record fabric test reports.

After cutting, perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut pieces),
inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Visual Inspection Report (use the Fabric/Cutting Checklist
and defective portion).

Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.

If the factory can not correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted
for corrective action.

If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standard, color, etc. arise, the merchandiser/production
representative should be contacted for corrective action.

In-Process Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures


The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process inspection:

All fabric/components/trims/labels should be checked against production approved standards, and must
reflect correct country of origin and fiber/component content. Review and record all required Gap, Inc.
fabric/component/product test reports.

Verify needle control and safety procedures are being followed.

Check to be sure that all components/trims/labels are available so production schedules can be met.

Perform random check in sewing lines/finishing. Verify factory is checking at least six pieces of each
operators semi-finished goods to check for workmanship defects. Record finding on the appropriate
In-process inspection report.

Check hand/color against approved standards. If standards are not available, send the merchandiser/production
representative examples of fabric colors and range of shades.

Measure placement and size of pattern pieces against specification sheet.

Check seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet.

Check that all small parts are securely attached.

Record and indicate any problems in the space provided in the In-Process Visual Inspection Worksheet

Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.

If the factory cannot correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted
for corrective action.

If questions regarding construction, measurements, fabric standard, color, etc. arise, the
merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for answers.

All measurement points listed in the measurement box of the specification sheet are to be measured on at
least one product of each size and color during the In-Process inspection (i.e. on unwashed or rigid garment).
This is to be done using pattern yield measurements, which are to be provided by the Vendor. Any discrepancies
are to be noted on the In-Process Visual Inspection Report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and
merchandiser/production representative.

In-Process Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

10

In-Process Inspection Procedures (cont)

Record the locations of all operations such as knitting, linking and finishing. Also, record the appraisal of the
factorys capacities. The first In-Process inspection must begin at the knitting stage with photographs taken
of every style during work in progress. Knitting panel inspection must be conducted at the intervals listed
below depending on the size of a program:
a)
b)
c)

Up to 5,000 pieces. At least one in-Process audit must be conducted when


the knitting of 20% of the panels completed.
5,001 to 10,000 pieces. At least two In-Process audits must be conducted when
the knitting of 20% and 50% completed.
Above 10,000 pieces. At least three In-Process audits must be conducted when
the knitting of 20%, 50%, and 80% completed.

When products are transferred from one location to another, a visual and measurement inspection report must
be performed using the same criteria as the shipment Inspection procedures. Any discrepancies are to be noted
on the Visual and Measurements Inspection report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and
merchandiser/production representative.

In-Process Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

11

IV. Shipment Inspection


Purpose
The purpose of a shipment inspection is to determine the quality of an order by its visual appearance, measurement
to specifications and packing execution. The shipment inspection is performed before the finished product is shipped.
This is done in order to minimize the arrival of defective product to Gap Inc. distribution centers, stores or other
designated locations.

Shipment Inspection Forms


At relevant stages of the Shipment Inspection use the following forms.

Visual Inspection Report


Box Audit Worksheet (optional)
Finished Product Measurement Sheet
Finished Product Measurement Sheet - Tops (optional)
Finished Product Measurement Sheet Bottoms (optional)

An example of each form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note, these forms must be
used as is during the Shipment Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact
Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Shipment Inspection Methods


When auditing garments for measurements and visuals, there are two methods that may be used in relation
to the timing of the audit. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap designated personnel
performing the audit. However, the most proactive and preferred method is the non-destructive procedure.
Option 1: During the packing process, this type of audit combines Measurements, Visual, Packaging,
and Packing.
Option 2: A non-destructive audit may be performed for measurements, visuals, and packaging before the
garments are boxed. Packing audits must be performed during the boxing/packing process to verify labels,
assortments, and counts.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

12

Measurement Audit
Measurement Audit Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit:

Measurements should be taken on products after wash, after press and sometimes before packing. Major
measurement defects are to be judged using an A.Q.L. of 6.5. Only critical measurement points highlighted
on the specification sheet (*) are taken at the time of the shipment audit. A product with more than one
major measurement defect is counted as a major defect.

Select samples at random.

Measure products at critical measurement points which are noted with a (*) on the approved specification sheet.

Record all measurements taken on the Finished Product Measurement Form.

Determine the results based on the A.Q.L. 6.5 pass/fail levels for major defects, and the percent defective
for minor defects (Reference Measurement Audit Sampling Plan).

Put a CIRCLE around minor defects (i.e. measurements which are out of tolerance but do not exceed grade).
Waist measurements on woven bottoms, which are out of tolerance, are to be counted as
major defects. Please check the waist and inseam requirements on the specification sheet
for what constitutes a major defect on every style, as this can vary between styles and fabrics.

Put a TRIANGLE around major defects (i.e. measurements that are out of tolerance and exceed the grade). If a
measurement point has no grade or if the grade is less than the stated tolerance or measurements that exceed
the tolerance than it will be considered major defects.

If the total number of circled measurements is less than or equal to the number of minor defects allowed, and
if the total number of triangle measurements is less than or equal to the number of major defects allowed, the
measurement audit passes. Both minor and major measurements must be in the allowed range to pass the
measurement audit.

If the total number of circled measurements is more than the number of minor defects allowed, the audit
fails.

If the total number of triangle measurements is more than the number of majors allowed, the audit fails.

Snug Fitting Sleepwear Measurement Audit Procedures


The following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit for Snug Fitting Sleepwear:

Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS).
It will state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement
page of the GSS, measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.

Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
(Measurement Audit Sampling Plan, page 16)

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

13

Snug Fitting Sleepwear Measurement Audit Procedures (cont)

Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS - that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+)
side will be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL
LETTERS - that is less than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or
majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures. All other measurement points - those not in capital letters are counted as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.

The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1.

If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to
be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.

Measurement Audit Sampling Plan


Determine the number of garments to sample, according to the following sampling plan chart:

Measurements
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 6.5 A.Q.L.
Lot Size Mixed Color

Sample Size

1 Color
2 Colors
3 Colors
4 Colors
5 Colors
More than (5) Colors

20
32
50
80
80
125

Major 6.5
Pass
3
5
7
10
10
14

Fail
4
6
8
11
11
15

Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects

For woven and knit items, 10% of measurement points pass if found to be out of tolerance,
but not exceeding the grade (e.g. If there are 9 measurement points on a pant and 32 garments to be
measured, there would be a total of 288 measurement points. That shipment will then pass, if there are
not more than 29 minor defect measurement points (10%) out of the 288 taken out of tolerance).

For sweater items, 15% of the measurement points will pass if out of tolerance, but not exceeding
grade. Apply the same formula found above.

If the audit fails, the merchandiser/production representative should be notified for corrective action.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

14

Visual Audit
Visual Audit Methods
There are two methods for auditing visuals. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap Inc.
designated personnel performing the audit:
Option 1: Non-Destructive Visual Audit (audit performed before garments boxed).
Option 2: Visual Auditing begins after boxing/packing process has started.

Visual Audit Forms and Reference Sheets


At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, use the following forms:

Visual Inspection Report

Visual Inspection Worksheet (tool to be used for non-destructive audits that occur over an extended
period of time)
At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, reference the Classification of Visual Defects Sheets (Chapter X, Appendix II).
An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. An example of each reference sheet
can found in Chapter XI, Appendix II, of this manual. Please note these forms and sheets must be used as is
during the Visual Audit. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane
at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Visual Audit Sampling Plans


The sampling plans used for both audits are as follows:

Gap, GapKids, babyGap, Old Navy Adults/Kids/Baby and Outlet


First Quality Production
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)
Shipment Size
Lot

0-500
501-1,200
1,201-3,200
3,201-10,000
10,001-35,000
35,001-UP

Garment Visuals
Sample
Size
20
32
50
80
125
200

Critical 0.1
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Major 4.0
Pass/Fail
2/3
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
14/15

Minor 6.5
Pass/Fail

3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
14/15
21/22

Ticket Check
(OCR)
Major .25
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
1/2
1/2

15

Visual Audit Sampling Plans (cont)


Banana Republic and Japan Orders
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)
Shipment Size
Lot

0-500
501-1,200
1,201-3,200
3,201-10,000
10,001-35,000
35,001-UP

Garment Visuals
Sample
Size
20
32
50
80
125
200

Critical 0.1
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1

Major 2.5
Pass/Fail
1/2
2/3
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11

Minor 6.5
Pass/Fail

3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
14/15
21/22

Ticket Check
(OCR)
Major .25
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
1/2
1/2

Visual Audit Procedures


The following are QA procedures when performing a visual audit:

Since this type audit may take place over an extended period of time (e.g. more than one day),
the non-destructive visual process is selected and the Visual Inspection Worksheet may be used.

When the visual audit is performed over more than one day, the results recorded on the Visual Inspection
Worksheet must be reviewed and signed by factory management. The information on this worksheet
must be transferred and attached to the Visual Inspection Report.

When this visual audit procedure is employed, the Gap representative must insure immediate corrective action
is taken to correct any defects found. This will insure other garments in this audit will not contain the
following defects:
a) Critical visual defects are based on an A.Q.L. of 0.1 for all divisions.
Critical visual defects are defined as defects that may cause bodily injury to the
wearer. One critical defect found during the shipment audit would cause the audit
to fail. All the goods in a fail audit must be re-inspected 100% by factory to remove
all critical defective items prior to been audited again by Gap field auditor or its
appointed agent.
b) OCR/Ticket/Label Check is based on a 0.25 AQL.
c) Major visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 4.0 for Gap Divisions and Old Navy,
2.5 for Banana Republic and product being sold in Japan.
d) Minor visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 6.5 for all divisions.
e) Pass/fail numbers for minor/major defects are to be counted separately.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

16

Visual Audit Procedures (cont)


f)

Any trim that contains an OCR (BARCODE) information must be audited during the Visual
auditing process. This will be a separate audit and results must be posted to the Visual Inspection
Report. When an incorrect OCR trim/label/ticket is detected, the facility must perform an
additional audit of OCR trims to determine the severity of the problem as well as the correction.
This audit will consist of a sample size of 315 pieces. This audit will pass on two (2) incorrect
OCR trims and fail on three (3). The AQL for the OCR trims/label/ticket audit is 0.25. If this
additional audit passes, the entire audit may be passed. However, if this second (additional) audit fails,
the factory must re-inspect 100% of the shipment for incorrect OCR trims. OCR trims are normally
price tickets on knits and woven shirts and matchbooks on woven etc. bottoms. The OCR is the
line that is scanned in the stores that indicates the price and style. This information is vital to insure
that the replenishment of inventory in our Distribution Centers and stores is accurate.

g) While performing the visual audit any defects as follows will be counted as a major defect in the
visual audit:
1) Incorrect size strip (31x31 strip on a 34x31 pair of pants)
2) Incorrect flasher
3) Incorrect (wrong size) of logo label
4) Incorrect non-OCR (BARCODED) price ticket
(These items must correspond to the Bill of Materials
(BOM) on the GSS as to item number and size)
5) Above items are coordinated by size and style
h) The lot size is the total number of units to the shipment. The selection of a random sample
must be conducted according to ratio based on quantity, number of sizes, and various colors
in a program.
i)

Sample size will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used.

j)

More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect.

k) If consistent minor defects occur which affect the overall appearance of the product, the
shipment audit fails. This failure must be brought to the attention of the merchandise/production
representative.
l)

Samples are to be taken randomly and must include all sizes.

m) Defective labeling (defined by incorrect country of origin or fiber content) on any


portion of the shipment will result in failure and rejection of the shipment. Refer to
Vendor Handbook for country of origin information.

If the number of visual defects is equal to or less than the number allowed per the sampling plan, the audit
passes. The defective products found are to be sent back for repair or seconded.

If the number of visual defects is more than the number allowed, the audit fails. The merchandiser/production
representative is to be notified to determine disposition of the shipment.

Complete the Visual Inspection Report. Record the fabric/production test reports numbers in the appropriate
area. If not available, fax to production representative and Director of Product Integrity.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

17

Visual Audit Procedures (cont)

If the audit fails, record when the re-audit is to take place in the comment column. If re-audit takes place at
that time, use the same procedures as new audit, including packing.

If shade variations occur within a shipment, the merchandiser/production representative is to be notified and
samples sent to merchandiser/production representative for approval.

If the merchandiser/production representative requests that the shades be separated the carton shade marks
should be checked during shipment.

During the shipment audit, packaging and labeling should be checked closely to insure conformance to standards
including proper Country of Origin and fiber content markings.

When multiple Purchase Orders are ready for shipment, they can be combined and the audit performed on a
sample taken from this combination. If the audit fails, all Purchase Orders fail; if it passes all Purchase Orders
pass.

It is mandatory to check the weight of each size for the following garments at shipment audit. Sweaters
and fine knit for babyGap (for quota purposes).

Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits


Gap / Old Navy Procedures
Sweaters
Three pieces of the median size (the average of the smallest to the largest in the range) are weighed.
The results are added together, and then divided by three (3). This will determine the average weight
per sweater.
babyGap Fine Knits
Three pieces of every size are weighed and the individual readings are recorded. The results are forwarded
to babyGap merchants to determine quota issues. It is not necessary for QA to comment on whether the
weight meets the required tolerance.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

18

Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits (cont)


Banana Republic Procedures
Sweaters
Sweaters of every size in a program must be weighed individually and calculated for average weight based on
the required size ratio in a placement memorandum according to the below listed procedures:
a) Assuming that the required size ratio is 1:2:2:1 (XS/S/M/L).
b) Randomly select four sweaters of every size; weigh them individually and record the results for
the interim audit report.
c) Calculate the average weight of each sweater size by adding the four (4) readings together and dividing
by four (4).
d) Based on the size ratio 1:2:2:1, the average overall weight of a sweater is calculated in the
following manner:
(avg. wt. of sizes xs x sz ratio 1) + (avg. wt. of size s x sz ratio 2) +
(avg. wt. of size m x sz ratio) + (avg. wt. of size l x ratio 1) /four (4) =
overall weight of sweater.

Gap Asia Pacific Procedures


Shipment audit will not be carried out on new store orders or shipment quantities of up to 1,000 units or less by color.
Instead it is the responsibility of the Vendor to perform the necessary audit, and insure that the shipped merchandise meets
Gaps quality standards. QA will issue an OK to Ship report using a shipment report form printed with a
Shippers Declaration.

Seconds & Overruns


Vendors must be reminded that all seconds or overruns sold to anyone other than Gap Inc., must have all Gap Inc.
logos, labels, or other identification removed in accordance to the guidelines outlined in the Vendor Handbook.
After all are removed, then an audit must be scheduled to verify that the removal has been executed correctly.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

19

Pack Audit
Terms to know during the pack audit: FA means Factory Audit and AA means Audit Assessment. These terms
must be used to differentiate similar terms used in the Distribution Centers.

Pack Audits Procedures


The factory is responsible for the pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a pack audit:

The pack audit must be performed as a separate audit.

The pack audit is the responsibility of the facility/vendor.

Before beginning this assessment, QA personnel must ask the factory/vendor representative
for the results of their audit. When performing this assessment, the Gap Inc. auditor must place a AA
on each box in the assessment. This will be placed in the same area as the FA. Otherwise, place this in
the upper right hand of the box information label in a 1x1 space. This AA is not to be covered by tape or
labels because it will be used by Distribution Center QA during their pack assessment.

Gap Inc. QA or those designated by Gap Inc. to perform shipment audits, will be responsible for a 10%
assessment of this factory/vendor audit.
Major Defects for Pack Audits
a) Incorrect quantity
b) Carton labeling errors
c) Incorrect Pre-Pack

Assortments

Amounts

Pre-Pack Stickers
d) Carton not as specified (size and construction)
e) Crushed or damaged cartons
f) Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons

When performing the pack audit, the vendor must place an FA on each box audited. This FA must be placed
in a one inch by one inch space (1x1) at the top right hand corner of the box information label (the label
containing Purchase Order, style, quantity, etc.). This FA must not be covered with tape or other labels.
because it will be used as a guide by Gap Inc. field personnel and Gap Inc. Distribution Centers to verify
audits and assess these cartons.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

20

Pack Audit Procedures (cont)

Upon failure of an assessment, the auditor will continue the random sampling, using the Factory Pack Audit
Sample Plan. If the Factory Pack Audit fails, the factory must then take appropriate action to correct the
problems found. Discuss the results with factory representatives. Receive and record the factory action plan to
correct the issues found in the audit. A re-audit will then be performed (not assessment) to verify the packing
errors were corrected. A re-audit will be performed and recorded on a separate Visual Inspection Report. Attach
this re-audit to the original Visual Inspection Report.

Upon completion of this assessment and/or audit, complete the appropriate section in the Visual Inspection
Report. Record the results of the Audit Assessment (AA) and the results of the Factory Audit (FA).

If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser/production representative for corrective action.

The assessment will be performed on 10% of the number of boxes that are audited by the factory/vendor.
Example: if there are 1005 boxes in the shipment, the factory/vendor will audit 80 boxes. Gap Inc. personnel
would then perform an 8 box assessment (10% of 80 boxes). Again there is a zero tolerance in this assessment.
Any defects will require more action to be taken (i.e. complete audit, re-inspect by factory, etc.) The
assessment may or may not be taken for the same exact boxes on the Factory (FA) Audit. The best practice
would be to pull the sample from both populations (boxes not in FA and boxes in FA).

Pack Audits Sampling Plan


The pack audit sampling plan for the factory/vendor is as follows:

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (2) .65 AQL

# of cartons
5-15
15-50
51-150
151-500
501-1,200
1,201-UP

Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan


Sample Size Pass
Fail
3
0
1
8
0
1
20
0
1
50
1
2
80
1
2
125
2
3

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

21

Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs


Each vendor who participates in Gap, Inc.s full carton pack program should establish a packing audit system.

Prototype Pack
For each Full Carton/CD Flow Pack purchase order, the Vendor is required to have in their packing
department a prototype packed carton for training. This prototype is to be approved by Gap QA.

Sample Size
The Vendor should determine what quantity of cartons can be packed, and held, before closing the cartons.
This carton quantity becomes the population from which the sample is drawn. The way a sampling plan
works is the larger the population the smaller the sample size is as a percent of the population. To optimize
the inspection time, the maximum quantity of cartons packed and labeled but not closed is desired. Once
that number is determined, the Vendor should choose the sampling size from the pack audits sampling plan
(0.65 AQL).

Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Auditing Procedures


The factory is responsible for the full carton pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a full carton
pack audit:

It is important for the Vendor to keep the population size at a level that takes into consideration the staging
area available as well as the factorys accuracy history. If an audit does not take place until the population is
large, a great deal of extra handling will take place if it fails. We recommend that in the beginning, a Vendor
that is new to full carton pre-packs choose a small population to audit until history can be developed and
expertise learned.

A same criterion for major packing errors is to be used as a normal shipment audit; use the same criterion as
listed under Pack Audits. (FA and AA procedures).

Gap Inc. will perform an assessment after the audit is completed by the factory/vendor.

Should Vendors allow improperly packaged merchandise to ship, it will be the responsibility of the Vendor
to pay for any special handling required later, in order to correct those errors at Gap Inc.s Distribution
Centers.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

22

Japanese Purchase Orders Auditing Procedures


All Japanese purchase order shipments are required to be audited against an A.Q.L. level of 2.5 majors and 6.5
minors for final shipment audits.
All goods shipped against Japanese purchase orders are required to go through a second 100% inspection by
the factory after trimming and before packing. This is for the companys benefit only (not to be considered acceptance
of any goods) and is performed to ensure that the following points are confirmed before shipping:

Loose threads are properly trimmed and loose buttons attached properly.

Needle control/metal detector procedures followed.

No sharp metal points.

Paper care/content label in Japanese is in the garment and properly placed.

Leg sticker/matchbook and any trim items are correctly coordinated to size label.

Price ticket in Yen attached to garment with correct retail price.

No dirt spots or stains.

Pressing is to company standards and as specified for product.

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

23

Outlet Division Standards


Outlet Audit Forms
At the relevant stage of an Outlet Audit, use the following form:

Visual Inspection Report

Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report


An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. If there are questions or change
requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Outlet Division Auditing Types


All rejected products must first be offered to the Outlet Division. There are three types of audits for Outlet:
Type 1: First quality product sold to or produced for Outlet with Outlet labels. Apply same
methods for audit as any Gap Inc. division. This audit will be recorded on the Visual Inspection
Report.
Type 2: First quality product sold or produced for Outlet with Banana Republic labels and
crossed through with a gold pen. Use the most current Banana Republic A.Q.L. for inspection.
For Gap, GapKids, and babyGap main labels crossed through with gold pen, use the
most current A.Q.L. used by each department for the inspection. This audit will be recorded
on the Visual Inspection Report.
Type 3: Product rejected by merchandising or production and purchased by Outlet. This may
be a complete program or rejected units within a program. This audit is performed to assure
product purchased meets Outlet standards. (i.e. does not contain packing errors or any product
considered as a third). This audit will be recorded on the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.

Outlet Division Auditing Procedures

Packing audits are to be conducted using Level (2) .65 AQL (see Pack Audit, page:).

Merchandise not gold lined through the labels, as described in the Vendor Handbook, are considered majors.

Thirds are defined as merchandise that is not wearable or would cause embarrassment to the wearer.

Complete and submit to Outlet, the Visual Inspection Report and/or the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.

Seconds & Overruns


For Outlet internal purposes, we define seconds garments as those that are wearable with unnoticeable flaws.
These defects should not be conspicuous to the average customer.
The Outlet Classification Guide provided below references two types of merchandise: seconds and thirds.
Outlet is generally interested in first quality or seconds. This defect Guide applies only to Outlet, and does not alter
or change in any way the Companys quality standards or any Company requirements in the Vendor Handbook.
This in only a reference tool. All seconds, overruns, unused goods or rejected goods of any kind must still be
offered to Outlet regardless of the QA Classification guide below. If you have questions, please contact Outlet.
Note: Outlet will not except any product that has a critical defect; also, vendor must forward to Outlet 3 samples:
2 that reflect the majority of the flaws and 1 that represents the worst case scenario (please indicate accordingly).
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

24

Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet


ANZI/ASQC Z!.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 1.5 AQL
Size of Shipment

0-500
501-1,200
1,201-3,200
3,201-10,000
10,001-35,000

Sample Size

20
32
50
80
125

Thirds
Pass
1
1
2
3
5

Fail
2
2
3
4
6

Outlet Defect Classification Guide


DEFECTS

CLASS OF GARMENT
SECONDS

THIRDS/ NOT
ACCEPTABLE

1.

Garments not to color standard

2.

Shading - garment to garment

3.

Slight shading within garments

4.

Measurements out of tolerance(Excluding CPSC requirements


on childrens sleepwear)

5.

Twisting or torquing up to 50% greater than 1st quality


standard

6.

Light fastness greater than 1.5, less than 3.5

7.

Abrasion greater than standard

X on approval

8.

Underweight garments

X on approval

9.

Incorrect "hand" to standard

10.

Noticeable fabric flaws

X on approval

11.

Sewing flaws resulting in puckering, broken stitches, needle


cuts, needle chews and needle holes

12.

Stained or soiled garments that are not cleanable

13.

Repairs of sewing and finishing defects

14.

Screen printing not as specified

15.

Mismatched parts or plaids not as specified

16.

Light fastness less than or equal to 1.5

17.

Holes

18.

Crocking below standard

19.

Product with Critical defects

20.

Non-repairable sewing defects

21.

Rags - incomplete garments

22.

Non-repairable hardware defects, e.g. snaps, zippers, etc.

23.

Screen printing - poor resolution or not aligned

Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

25

X. Safety Procedures
It is mandatory that all raw materials, trim components, and actual production garments be evaluated by a
Gap, Inc. approved testing laboratory. For specific information regarding Gapkids and babyGap, refer to Gap Inc.s
Product Safety Standards and Procedures Manual for Infants and Children.
The following are QA procedures when performing a Safety audit:

Check factory Needle Control Procedure Log; sign and date log. Ask factory management and
operators to explain needle control procedures. Make sure log is filled out properly and is up to date.
Take a photocopy of the latest entry page; attach to your report.

Check needle detector if factory has one. Check date of machines last service and calibration. Test machine
and its sensitivity adjustment. Perform test with 1.2mm sphere test card. Review occurrence log for
needles that have been detected.

Check for lock-stitch button machines. If there are none, report to merchant as soon as possible. Advise
operable factory that lock-stitch button machines are required. If they have lock-stitch, verify they have
enough machines to handle production requirements, using the Pull Test.

Check snap equipment and parts to make sure they are on the approved list of suppliers. Make sure
pneumatic and electric press equipment is made by an approved snap vendor. Make sure dies match snaps
and that prongs on snaps are long enough to properly mate and secure the snap, using the Pull Test.
Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for further instruction.

Hand/foot press or flywheel equipment is not allowed. Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for
further instruction.

Safety Procedures
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

26

VI. Broken Needle Standards


Broken Needle Forms
At relevant stages of the Broken Needle Inspection, use the following form.

Broken Needle Log

An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note that this form must be used
during the Broken Needle Inspection. If need be, additional columns can be added to the forms for documenting
information, but existing columns/formatting can not be removed from this form. If there are questions or change
requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.

Broken Needle Procedures


The following are Needle procedures for vendors when manufacturing garment:

Operators should not possess any spare needles.

Replacement needles should be stored in a locked closet.

Worn needles should be disposed of in a sealed container.

When needles break, every effort must be made to locate all fragments.

If all fragments cannot be found, component or garment must be destroyed.

Breakage must be recorded in the broken needle log.

Broken or used needles should not be around machines or on factory floor.

Pins, staples, wire or metal clips should not be used in the bundling, sewing
or laundry process.

Verification of Factorys Needle Control Procedures


This is a clearly defined method to verify that factories are following needle control procedures. All QA representatives
who conduct in-factory audits on Gap Inc.s behalf such as Gap Inc.s sourcing channels/agents/QA staff are responsible
for this task.
The inspection steps outlined in these procedures will allow you to quickly determine if factories are correctly following our
needle control procedures:

Before you start to do In-Process audits, you should walk through the production lines to verify
needle control procedures.

Ask a few operators, at random, to explain what they do if a needle breaks. Proceed to do audit, if
they detail the correct procedure. If they are not following the correct procedure, discuss your
findings with the factory manager.

Broken Needle Standards


Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

27

Verification of Factorys Needle Control Procedures (cont)

Search the floor for used or broken needle parts. Pick up and save any you find to discuss with
factory management.

Check around a few operators machines for spare or broken needles. Lift the machine head to see
if used or broken needles are present in the oil pan. Collect and save needles to discuss with factory
management.

Check the broken needle log for accuracy. Sign and date the log if it is in order. Make sure all
broken parts have been found and are taped to the log for each entry. If only part of the broken
needle is attached to log, further investigation is required.

Vendors who have needle detection equipment must verify the calibration and accuracy o the
machine once per hour. This can be done with a 1.2mm check card. A log should be kept to record
any broken needles or other metal products found.

OSHA requires that contaminated needles, those that may or may not be broken but have
punctured human skin, must be disposed of in a blood borne pathogen container.

Broken Needle Standards


Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

28

VII. Country of Origin


Refer to Gap Inc.s Vendor Handbook

Country of Origin
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

29

VIII. Carton/Prepack
For carton sizes, specifications, labelling and pre-pack definitions refer
to Gap Inc.s Vendor Handbook

Carton/Prepack
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

30

IX.

Appendix I (General Forms)


Summary of Quality Assurance general forms used during
various inspection points, as explained in this manual:
In-Process Inspection Report
Visual Inspection Worksheet
In-Process Audit Worksheet
In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report
Visual Inspection Report
Finished Product Measurement Sheet
Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops)
Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms)
Outlet Inspection Report
Broken Needle Log
Box Audit Worksheet

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AI-1

GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING

(________________OFFICE

IN-PROCESS INSPECTION REPORT

RANDOM/UNANNOUNCED
IN LINE (SCHEDUALED)

STYLE NO.______________________
CONTRACT SHIPMENT DATE_______________INSPECTION DATE:_________
P.O. NO. ______________________
ANTICIPATED SHIPMENT DATE_____________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____
______________________
ORDER QUANTITY_____________________
VENDOR:__________________
DEPT.:_________________________
COLOR:______________________________
FACTORY:_________________
FABRIC TEST # __________________
FACTORY CODE____________
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:________________________________________
AUDITOR:__________________
PLANNED PRODUCTION ARRANGEMENT (COMPLETE AT "IN-LINE ONE" ONLY EXCEPT FOR CHANGES TO PLAN
SAME AS IN-LINE
FACTORY COUNTRY LOCATIO ONE
YES
NO
FABRIC/KNIT PANEL
YES
NO
CUTTING
YES
NO
MINOR SEWING
YES
NO
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN
YES
NO
FINISHING
MANFACTORING PROCESS CONFERRING COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
ACTUAL PRODUCTION STATUS:

FABRIC(EG. BLANKETS

KTS. PANEL

ASSEMBLY

STATUS
CUTTING/KNITTING
MINOR SEWING
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN
FINISHING
PACKING
FABRIC CUTTING

SEWING

SHADING

THREAD

STRIPE MATCH

SEAM

CUTTING REPORTS

PATTERN

LINKING/LOOPING/
MENDING

FINISHING
WASHING
CLR FASTNES

STITCH
SHAPES/SYMMETR

IRONING/SHAPE

OTHERS

SEAM/ LK/ LP
KNITTING
MEND

PULL TESTING

BTN/ HOLES

NECK STRETRCH GA

NEEDLE DETECT

FOLDING

BARTAKING

PLY MATCHING

POCKETING

TICKETING

OTHER

OTHER

HEMMING

POLYBAG

BARTACKING

CARTON

LINING

MARKINGS

SNAP MACHINE

HANGTAGS

SPECS

LOCKSTITCH BUT

CLEANING

BUTTON HOLES

A = ACCEPTABLE

NEEDLE CONTRO

PRESSING

MARKER

LABEL POSITION

SAFETY CHECK

SNAP TEST

PACKING

U = UNACCEPTABLE

I CONFIRM ACCURACY OF ALL INFORMATION ABOVE


AND AGREE TO MAKE CORRECTIONS AS PER ABOVE
COMMENTS IMMEDIATELY

N/A = NOT APPLICABLE

CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY VENDOR / FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE


__________________________
_____________________________
SIGNATURE
__________________________
AUDITOR INITIALS / DATE

DATE
_____________________________
Q.A. MANAGER INITIALS / DATE

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AI-2

Factory Representative

Color

Style Number

Subtotal

Minor

Critical Major

Check

Critical

Major

Date

OCR

Date

Visauls

Qty. Inspected

Ship Quantity

Qty. Inspected

Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Appendix I

Comments:

Type of Defect

Purchase Orders

7+(*$3,1&

Minor

Check

OCR
Critical

Date

Major

Qty. Inspected

Sample Size

Minor

Check

OCR

Visual Inspection Worksheet

Critical

Date

Major

Qty. Inspected

Minor

Check

OCR

*OCR Ticket Check Based on .25 AQL

Critical

Date

Major

Qty. Inspected

Pass/Fail

Minor

Check

OCR

Minors

Majors

Total Defects

Total Inspected

Minors

OCR

Majors

Critical

AI-3

Gauge

S.P.I.

Measure

Thread/
Tension Margin

No.
operator
Units

Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Appendix I

Q.A. SIGNATURE (DATE)_____________________ LINE SUPERVISOR________________________

GENERAL COMMENTS

OPERATION

Comments

PLANT MANAGER______________

No.
Defects

VENDOR _______________ MFG. PLANT_______________ DIVISION_________________DATE ___________________


LINE No. _______________ STYLE ___________________ PATTERN ________________AUDITOR _________________

AI-4

IN PROCESS AUDIT WORKSHEET

VENDOR:
_________________
SUBCONTRACTOR: _________________
WEEK OF:
_________________

Style
Number

Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Appendix I

Vertical Placement:
_________
Horizontal Placement: _________

Placement
Placement
Press Print/Other
Total Units Total Units
Problems Found/
ID
Registration Color Vertical Tol. Actual Horizontal Tol. Actual Inspected Defective Name Corrective Action

Percent defective (divide total units defective by total units inspected):

Date and
Time

INSTRUCTIONS: Use separate sheet for each vendor or subcontractor

FAX WEEKLY TO:


_________________
FAX NUMBER:
_________________
FROM:
_________________
P.O. NUMBER(if available) _________________

IN PROCESS GRAPHICS VISUAL AUDIT REPORT

AI-5

GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING


(

OFFICE)
VISUAL INSPECTION REPORT

SHIPMENT
REAUDIT

VENDOR__________________
ORDER QTY.__________________INSPECTION DATE_________
DIVISION_________________
VENDOR STYLE#______________ AUDITOR_________________
CONT. SHIP DATE__________
FIRST COSTS$________________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____
COLOR___________________
FACTORY_________________
DESCRIPTION_____________________________________________ FACTORY CODE___________
DC

P.O. #

GAP STYLE#

SHIP QTY

DC

P.O. #

______________________
AUDITOR (DATE)
______________________
MERCHANDISER (DATE)

GAP STYLE#

SHIP QTY

________________________
Q.A. MANAGER (DATE)
_______________________
MERCHANDISING MG (DATE)

Merchandising Team Comments: ________________________


___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________
___________________________________________________
AUDIT PASSED
AUDIT FAILED
INSP. QTY. _________________________________________
DEFECTIVE QTY:
ACCEPT QTY:

CRITICAL

CRITICAL

OCR TICKET/LABEL CHECK

MAJOR

MINOR

MAJOR

MINOR

PASS

FAIL

SUMMARY: ______________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
COMMENTS: _____________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY:
(FACTORY REP)

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AI-6

GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING

NO.

CRITICAL

VISUAL DEFECT

MAJOR

MINOR

TOTAL

PACK ACCURACY CHECK


CTN. INSP. Defective QTY

CTN. Ship

Packing Defects ___________________________________________________________________


__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________

TEST REPORT#
PULL TEST#
GARMENT TEST#
FABRIC TEST#

WT. PER DOZ.

SPEC.

ACTUAL

_________
_________
_________

THE ABOVE AUDIT IS A RANDOM REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLING OF THE WHOLE LOT ONLY.
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.
MERCHANDISING

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AI-7

TOL

MAJOR

MINOR

AUDIT =

PASS<

AUDIT =

PASS<

>

>

AUDIT =

FAIL

AUDIT =

FAIL

SPEC

.10

%=

COLOR:

GAP STYLE #

PERCENT MAJORS

ACTUAL MAJORS

PERCENT MINORS

ACTUAL MINORS

SPEC

Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Appendix I

SPEC

TOTAL

GRAND

AUDIT

TOT 2ND

PG. TOTAL

PREV

TOTAL

PAGE

( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )

SIGNED BY:

CONFIRMED AND

PM / PO#

VENDOR STYLE #

Q.A. SIGNATURE

VENDOR

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INCS SPECIFIED DESTINATIONS

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT

AUDIT FAILED

AUDIT PASSED

MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC:

SPEC

2ND SAMPLE SIZE

PATTERN #

PARTICULARS

1ST. SAMPLE SIZE

SHIPMENT

DATE:

SAMPLE SIZE

INTERIM

FINISHED PRODUCT MEASUREMENT SHEET

AI-8

MINOR MAJOR

TOL SPEC

MAJOR

MINOR

AUDIT =

PASS <

AUDIT =

PASS <

>

>

AUDIT =

FAIL

AUDIT =

FAIL

SPEC

.10

%=

COLOR:

GAP STYLE #

PERCENT MAJORS

ACTUAL MAJORS

PERCENT MINORS

ACTUAL MINORS

SPEC

VENDOR STYLE #

PM / PO#

VENDOR

Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Appendix I

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INCS SRECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT

AUDIT FAILED

AUDIT PASSED

MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC:

CB / BODY LENGTH

CF LENGTH

CUFF OPENING

SLEEVE WIDTH

BICEP

ARMHOLE

SLEEVE LENGTH

SHOULDER

BOTTOM

WAIST

CHEST

NECK DROP

NECK WIDTH

NECK OPENING

PARTICULARS

2ND SAMPLE SIZE

PATTERN #

SHIPMENT
1ST. SAMPLE SIZE

INTERIM

DATE:

SAMPLE SIZE

( TOPS )

FINISHED PRODUCT MEASUREMENT SHEET

SPEC

TOTAL

GRAND

AUDIT

TOT 2ND

PG. TOTAL

PREV

TOTAL

( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )

SIGNED BY:

CONFIRMED AND

Q.A. SIGNATURE

MINOR

AI-9

MAJOR

2ND SAMPLE AUDIT

AUDIT FAILED

AUDIT PASSED

MAJOR

MINOR

MINOR UNIT DEFECT CALC:

AUDIT =

PASS <

AUDIT =

PASS <

>

>

AUDIT =

FAIL

AUDIT =

FAIL

SPEC

.10

%=

COLOR:

GAP STYLE #

PERCENT MAJORS

ACTUAL MAJORS

PERCENT MINORS

ACTUAL MINORS

SPEC

VENDOR STYLE #

PM / PO#

VENDOR

Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Appendix I

ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INCS SPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS

INSEAM

BOTTOM

KNEE

THIGH

FLY OPENING

BACK RISE

FRONT RISE

SEAT ( BELOW WB )

WAIST ( BOTTOM )

WAIST ( TOP )

TOL SPEC

2ND SAMPLE SIZE

PATTERN #

PARTICULARS

1ST. SAMPLE SIZE

SHIPMENT

DATE:

SAMPLE SIZE

INTERIM

{ BOTTOMS }

FINISHED PRODUCT MEASUREMENT SHEET

SPEC

TOTAL

GRAND

AUDIT

TOT 2ND

PG. TOTAL

PREV

TOTAL

PAGE

( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )

SIGNED BY:

CONFIRMED AND

Q.A. SIGNATURE

MINOR

AI-10

MAJOR

GAP INC.
Outlet Factory Outlet
INSPECTION REPORT

SHIPMENT
DATE

GFO STYLE#

VENDOR/MAKER:

ADDRESS:

PREPACK#

QTY ORDERED:

DEPT:

PO#

QTY TO BE SHIPPED:

AUDITOR:

GFO RETAIL PRICE ON TICKET:

UNITS PER CARTON:

COLOR:

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:

TOTAL CARTONS:

DESCRIPTION:

No.

Defectives

Thirds

ACCEPT

TOTALS
REJECT

ACCEPT/REJECT RANGE

AUDIT PASSED
1st sample
INSPECTED QTY.
DEFECTIVE QTY.
2nd sample
INSPECTED QTY.
DEFECTIVE QTY.
Cumulative Sample
INSPECTED QTY.
DEFECTIVE QTY.

AUDIT FAILED

THIRDS

% Packing Defectives

DEFECTIVE %

THIRDS

THIRDS

THIRDS

Verify the following informtion and check


block to the right.
1. All garments lined through with gold marker.
% 2. All garments are to be ticketed correctly.
3. Fit / Size strips placed on all denim and twill pants
4. Prepack definitions are correct.
% 5. Correct number of units are packed per carton.
6. Verify all carton label information is correct.

Type of Defect

Qty. Found

SUMMARY:

COMMENTS:

Sample Size:
Audit Passed:
Audit Failed:

MERCHANDISING TEAM COMMENTS:


CONFIRMED AND SIGNED BY:
FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE:

QA SIGNATURE (DATE)

MERCHANDISER (DATE)

MERCHANDISER (DATE)
DIR. OF PRODUCTION
The audit above is a random representative sampling of the whole lot only.
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.S
SPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS (QA MANUAL 02/01

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AI-11

OPERATOR
NAME

MACHINE #

Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

DATE /TIME
OF BREAK

FACTORY: _________________________

PRODUCT
STYLE

GAP INC.
DIVISION

SUPERVISOR

COUNTRY: __________________________

BROKEN NEEDLE LOG

TAPED NEEDLE PARTS

GAP
AUDITOR
CHECK

AI-12

DATE
CHECKED

CONTACT: _____________________

UNITS

PASS / FAIL QTY.


TOTAL MAJORS FOUND

PARTICULARS:

UNITS

7. Use of wire or metal


strapping to strap cartons

(FACTORY REPRESENTATION)

QA SIGNATURE
CONFIRMED AND
SIGNED BY:

5. Carton not as specified


6. Crushed or damaged cartons

_______________
_______________

10 Pack Size Ratio

GAP STYLE#
DESCRIPTION:
COLOR:

3. Carton Labeling errors or not readable


4. Incorrect pre-pack

Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

Appendix I

1. Incorrect quantity
2. Incorrect price tickets

AUDIT FAILED

AUDIT PASSED

Pack Size Ratio

TOTAL CARTONS IN SHIPMENT:


AUDIT QUANTITY:
100% INSPECT QUANTITY:

DATE:
PM/PO#
VENDOR:
MAKER:

GAP BOX AUDIT WORKSHEET

AI-13

10

X.

Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects)


The following details by product type major, minor and critical defects.
Note: Critical defects are listed within product type classification. Critical defects are anything
which can harm the user of the product. The following are some examples of critical
defects but are not limited to this list:
1)
2)
3)
4)

Loose components, i.e. buttons, snaps, stones or other miscellaneous parts;


Sharp edges, i.e. broken needles, staples, snaps, rivets, wire and pins;
Drawstrings at head or neck for baby or kids products; and
Threads or trim which are excessively long or loose which could present a
choking hazard to a baby or child if they become entangled.

Any critical defect found during an audit fails that audit and requires the factory to
re-inspect 100% of the product. Once all critical defects are removed, the order
must be audited by a Gap Inc. auditor or their designated representative.

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-1

Defects Woven and Knit


Dresses/Jumpsuits
Coats/Jackets
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Obvious Foreign or Color
Yarn
5.Not Obvious Foreign or
Color Yarn
6.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
7.Texture Change
8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4"
Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear
2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4"
3.Holes of any Size Repaired
or Not, Needle Cut, Tear
4.Fabric Not as Specified
5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs Up
to Size of Loop
6.Improper Repair
7.Any Pattern Errors

ZONE A
Major
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

Minor
Minor
Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8"
Major
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8"
Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on
Any Stitch Type
Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type
Major
5.Stitching Margin Variation
Needle to Edge Over 1/8"
Major
6.Stitching Margin Variation
Over 1/8"
Major
7.Any Exposed Stitch or Under
Part
Major
8.Blind Stitch Bite Too Deep
9.Stitch Count Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch
Major
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension
Major
11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying
Major
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8"
Major
13.Incorrect Placket Width
+ or -1/8"
Major
14.Incorrect Placket Width
Over 1/8"
Major
15.High-Low Pockets (Two
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket
Flaps + or - 1/8"
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
16.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/16"
Major
17.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8"
Major
18.Collar Overlap When
Buttoned
Major
19.Incorrrect Size Buttonhole
Major
20.Buttonholes Nonreplaceable,
Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches
21.Incorrect Button
Major
22.Missing Button
Major
23.Button Offline on Top Center
1/8" Tolerance
Major
24.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in
4-Hole or Upside Down
Major
25.Sewn in Pleats
Major
26.Uneven Pleating Shirring
or Poor Sewn Pleat
Major
27.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
up to 1/8"
Major
28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
Over 1/8"
Major
29.Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts
Major
30.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted
Major
31.Needle Chews up to 1
Per Inch
Major
32.Incorrect Thread or
Accessories
Major
33.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Ticket Placement
Major
34.Uneven Hip Pocket Placement
Over 1/8"
Major
35.Lips or Crease on Front Pkt
Major
36.Exposed White Pocket Bag
up to 1/8"
Major
37.Malfunctioning, Wavy or
Incorrect Zipper
Major
38.Uneven Yoke Seam up to 1/8"
Major
39.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8"
Major
40.Fell Seams Not Even at Join
Crotch More Than Width
of Stitch
Major
41.Uneven Pleating in Seam,
Shirring or Poorly Sewn
Major
42.Uneven or Incorrectly Placed
Darts Over 1/8"
Major
43.High Low Band Over 1/8"
Major
44.Uneven Band Over 1/8"
Major
45.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
Over 1/8"
Major

ZONE B
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
-

Major
Major
Major
-

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-2

Classification of Visual
Defects Woven and Knit
Dresses/Jumpsuits
Coats/Jackets
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
ZONE A
46.Slanting Belt Loops More
Than 1/8" Out of Vertical
or Missing
Major
47.Uneven Hem Over 1/8" Each
Side
48.Severe Puckering and Badly
Roped Hem
Major
49.Incorrect Bartack Placement
or Missing Bartack
Major
50.Misplaced Buttonhole or
Hook and Eye Over 1/8"
Major
51.Misplaced Button Over 1/8"
or Missing Button
Major
52.Misplaced Rivet Over 1/8"
or Missing Rivet
Major
53.Crows Feet
Major
54. Sharp Points/ Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles
Critical
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Permanent Crease
2.Poorly Pressed
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks

ZONE B

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Minor

Major

Major

E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4"
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside of Garment
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread
5.Stain,Soil Under1/8"
6.Stain,Soil Over 1/8"
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visible
9.Component Parts Not
Securely Tacked
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
11.Pile Direction Not as
Specified
12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Ticket Placement
13.Attached Sewing Threads at
Collar Area Over 1/8"
14.Improper Tidy or Fraying
of Band Finish
15.Incorrect Folding
16.Twisted Legs Over 1"
***babyGap / GapKids***
17. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
18. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
19. Drawstrings at Head & Neck

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Minor

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Minor
Major
Minor
Minor

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-3

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven & Knits
Dresses / Jumpsuits / Coats / Jumpers

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-4

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven & Knits
Dresses / Jumpsuits / Coats / Jumpers

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-5

Classification of Visual
Defects KnitTops
and Activewear
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Obvious Foreign or Color
Yarn
5.Not Obvious Foreign or
Color Yarn
6.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
7.Texture Change
8.Shading Between Garments

B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/8"
2.Holes of Any Size Repaired
or Not
3.Standards Wt/Dz Exceeds Tolerance
4.Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken
Stitch, End Down, Run Barr,
Bent Needle, Needle Line
5.Dye Discoloration Streaks
Blotches, Print Out of
Register
6.Bow or Bias Fabric Over 1"
Side to Side
C. Sewing (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8"
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8"
3.One or More Skip Stitch on
Any Stitch Type
4.Incorrect Stitch Type
5.Any Exposed Stitch or Under
Part
6.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep
7.Stitching Margin Variation
Needle to Edge Over 1/8"
8.Stitching Margin Over 1/8"
9.Stitchcount Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension
11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8"
13.Incorrect Placket Width
up to 1/8"
14.Incorrect Placket Width
Over 1/8"
15.High/Low Pkts of Pkt Flaps
1/8" or More
16.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/8"
17.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8"

ZONE A
Major
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

ZONE A
Major

ZONE B
Minor

Major
Majors

Major
-

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
-

Major
Major

Major
Major

Minor
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

C. Sewing (Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
18.Collar Overlap
19.Uneven Hip Pkt Placement
Over 1/8"
20.Lips or Creases on Pocket
21.Exposed White Pocket Bag
22.Not Mitred Inner Fly
23.Zippers, Incorrect Size/Color
Malfunctioning, Improper Set
24.Uneven Yoke Seam Under 1/8"
25.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8"
26.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
Width of Topstitch
27.Uneven,Pleating, Shirring
or Poorly Sewn Seams
28.Pleats in Seam
29.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes
up to 1/8"
30.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes
Over 1/8"
31.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
Over 1/8"
32. High/Low Waistband > 1/8"
33. Uneven Waistband > 1/8"
34. Uneven Belt Loop Placement > 1/8"
35. Beltloop Missing or Slanting
> 1/8"
36. Uneven Hem > 1/2" Each Side
37.Incorrect or Missing Bartack
38.Incorrect Size Buttonhole
39.Incorrect Button
40.Buttonholes Broken or
Unrepairable Threads
41.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole
or Hook And Eye Over 1/8"
42.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
Holes or Upside Down
43.Missing Button
44.Missing or Misplaced Rivet
Over 1/8"
45.Severe Puckering and Badly
Roped Hems
46.Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts
47.Interlining or Garment Part
Twisted
48.Crow Feet
49.Needle Chews up to 1 Per Inch
50.Insecure Setting of
Component Part
51.Incorrect Thread or
Accessories
52.Misaligned Inserts,Gussets
Over 1/4"
53. Sharp Points/Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Minor
Major

Major
-

Major

Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Minor

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-6

Classification of Visual
Defects Knit Tops
and Activewear
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Poor Press
2.Permanent Crease
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Threads up to 1/4"
2.Attached Threads Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside of Garment
4.Sewn in Waste or Thread on
Outside
5.Stail,Soil Oil to 1/8"
6.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots Over 1/4"
7.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band Finish
8.Visible Drill Hole or Notches
or Pencil Mark
9.Needle Chews or Feed-Dog
Abrasion Frays
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
11.Twisted Legs Over 1"
12.Nap Up/Down, Shaded Parts
13.Pile Direction Not as
Specified
14.Insecure Setting of Part
15.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
16.Missing or Incorrect Labels
17.Incorrect Folding
18.Asymetric Garment More
Than 1"
19.Uneven Elastification(Pant)
***babyGap / GapKids***
20. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Drawstrings at Head & Neck

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major

Major

Major

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-7

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Knit Tops & Activewear

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-8

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Knit Bottoms

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-9

Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Shirts
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Obvious Foreign or Color
Yarn
5.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
6.Texture Change
7.Bleach Spot
8. Shading Between Garments

B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT
1.Misweaves up to 1/4"
2.Misweaves Over 1/4"
3.Holes of any Size Repaired
or Not
4.Fabric Not as Specified
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs

ZONE A
Major
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

Major

Major

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Minor

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
1.Run Off Stitches Up to 1/8"
Major
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8"
Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on
a Chain Stitch
Major
4.. More Than 1 Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch
Major
5. Incorrect Stitch Type
Major
6.Stitching Margin Variation
Needle to Edge Over 1/16"
Major
7.Stitching Margin Over 1/16"
Major
8.Any Exposed Stitch or Under
Part
Major
9.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep
10.Stitchcount Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch
Major
11.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension
Major
12.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying
Major
13.Uneven Front Placket
>1/8" at Bottom
Major
14.Incorrect Placket Width
1/8" or Less
Major
15.Incorrect Placket Width
Over 1/8"
Major
16.Uneven High-Low Pockets(2
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps
More Than 1/4" in Relation
to Each Other
Major
17.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/8"
Major
18.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8"
Major
19.Collar Overlap When
Buttoned
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
20.Incorrect Size Buttonhole
Major
21.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
Anchored Threads or Broken
Stitches
Major
22.Incorrect Button
Major
23.Missing Button
Major
24.Buttons Out of Line on Top
Center 1/8" Tolerance
Major
25.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
Eyes or Upside Down
Major
26.Sewn in Pleats on Outside
Major
27.Uneven Pleating Shirring
or Poor Sewn Pleat
Major
28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes Up
to 1/8"
Major
29.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
Over 1/8"
Major
30.Improper Interlining ,Excessive Fullness of Parts
Major
31.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted
Major
32.Needle Chews up to 1
Per Inch
Major
33.Incorrect Thread or
Accessories
Major
34.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Ticket Placement
Major
35. Sharp Points/Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles
Critical
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Permanent Crease
2.Pressing Not as Specified
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks

ZONE B
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Critical

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major

Major
-

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-10

Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Shirts
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4"
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside Garment
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8"
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8"
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visible
9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion
10.Component Parts Not
Securely Tacked
11.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
***babyGap / GapKids***
13. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
14. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
15. Drawstrings at Head & Neck

ZONE A

ZONE B

Minor

Minor

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Minor
Major
Minor
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-11

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven Shirts

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-12

Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Shirts
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Bleach Streaks
2.Dirt Spots
3.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
4.Shaded Parts
5.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
6.Texture Change
7.Bleach Spot
8.Stone Bruises
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Misweaves up to 1/4"
2.Misweaves Over 1/4"
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired
or Not
4.Fabric Not as Specified
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs

ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Minor

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8"
Major
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8"
Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on
a Chain Stitch
Major
4.More Than One Skip Stitch on
a Lock Stitch
Major
5. Incorrect Stitch Type
Major
6. Stitching Margin Variation Needle
to Edge > 1/16"
Major
7.Stitching Margin Over 1/16"
Major
8.Any Exposed Stitch or Under
Part
Major
9.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep
10.Stitch Count Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch
Major
11.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension
Major
12.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying
Major
13.Uneven Front Placket
>1/8" at Bottom
Major
14.Incorrect Placket Width
1/8" or Less
Major
15.Incorrect Placket Width
Over 1/8"
Major
16.Uneven High-Low Pockets(2
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps
More Than 1/4" in Relation
to Each Other
Major
17.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/8"
Major
18.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8"
Major
19.Collar Overlap When
Buttoned
Major
20.Incorrect Size Buttonhole
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
21.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
Anchored Threads or Broken
Stitches
Major
22.Incorrect Button
Major
23.Missing Button
Major
24.Buttons Out of Line on Top
Center 1/8" Tolerance
Major
25.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
Eyes or Upside Down
Major
26.Sewn in Pleats on Outside
Major
27.Uneven Pleating Shirring
or Poorly Sewn Pleat
Major
28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes up
to 1/8"
Major
29.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
Over 1/8"
Major
30.Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts
Major
31.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted
Major
32.Needle Chews up to 1
Per Inch
Major
33.Incorrect Thread or
Accessories
Major
34.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Ticket Placement
Major
35. Sharp Points/Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles
Critical
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Permanent Crease
2.Pressing Not as Specified
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks

ZONE B

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Critical

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major

Major
Major

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-13

Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Shirts
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4"
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside Garment
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8"
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8"
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visable
9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion
10.Component Parts Not
Securely Tacked
11.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
Label,Ticket or Wrong Ticket
***babyGap / GapKids***
13. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
14. Stones in Garments

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

ZONE A

ZONE B

Minor

Minor

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Minor
Major
Minor
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

AII-14

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Denim Shirts

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-15

Classification Of
Visual Defects
Sweaters
A. Appearance and Color (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Unevenq Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprint, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Poor Match of Color
5.Light Soil, Foreign Yarn,
Visible Oil, Stains
6.Texture Changed
7.Obvious Foreign or Colored
Yarn
8.Not Obvious Foreign or
Colored Yarn
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Knitting Components (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Slubs and Misweaves
2.Slubs Larger Than Loop
3GG,5GG,7GG-up
3.Barre, Bent Needle Slubs up
To Size Of Loop
4.Hole Dropped Stitch Not
Repaired
5.Improper Sightly Repair
6.Any Pattern Error
7.Biased Pattern 1/2" Side
to Side

ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major

Minor
Major

ZONE A
Major

ZONE B
Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Major
Major
Major

Major
Minor
Major

Major

Major

C. Linking/Sewing - Seams + Stitches (Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
1.One or More Skip Stitch or
Any Skip in a Chain Stitch
Major
2.Incorrect Stitch Type
Major
3.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension
Major
4.Raw Edge, Open Seam Broken
Stitch, Loose Stitch
Major
5.Incorrect Thread Color
Major
6.Needle Perforation
Major
7.Misaligned Inserts, Pockets,
Gussets, Over 1/8"
Major
8.Loose Elastic Tension At
Bottom
9.Incorrect Size Buttonhole
Major
10.Buttonhols With Broken
Stitches
Major
11.Misplaced Button Over 1/4"
Major
12.Missing Button
Major
13.Mismatch Stripes Sideseam Up
To 1/4" (Plackets Over 1/4")
Major
14.Standard Weight Per Garment
Out of Tolerance
Major
15. Sharp Points/Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles
Critical

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major

D. Pressing (Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
1.Permanent Crease
2.Poorly Pressed or
Excessively Creased
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Linking Threads
Over 1/4"
2.Attached Threads Over 2"
Inside of Garment
3.Knot Yarn Ends up to 1/4"
4.Knot Yarn Ends Over 1/4"
5.Pull Loop Snags
6.Stain Soil Under 1/8"
7.Stain Soil Over 1/8"
8.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots
9.Component Parts Not
Securely Tacked
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
11.Pattern and Garment
Assementric Not More Than 1"
12.Shape Not as Specified
13.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
***babyGap / GapKids***
14. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
15. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
16. Drawstrings at Head & Neck

ZONE A
Major

ZONE B
Major

Major

Minor

Major

Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major

Minor
Major
Major
Minor
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-16

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Sweaters

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-17

Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Bottoms
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Foreign or Color Yarn <
or = 1/2"
5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2"
6.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
7.Texture Change
8.Bleach Spot
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Misweaves > 1/4"
2.Misweaves < OR = 1/4"
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired
or Not
4.Fabric Not as Specified
5.Non-Characteristics Slubs

ZONE A
Major
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major

Minor
Major

Minor

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

ZONE A
Major
Minor

ZONE B
Major
Minor

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8"
on Outside
Minor
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8"
on Outside
Major
3. Run Off Stitches < or = 1/4"
On Inside
Minor
4. Run Off Stitches > 1/4"
on Inside
Major
5. One or More Skip Stitch
on a Chain Stitch
Major
6.More Than One Skip Stitch
on a Lock Stitch
Major
7.One Skip Stitch on Lockstitch
Minor
8.Incorrect Stitch Type
Major
9.Stitching Margin Variation
Needle to Edge Over 1/8"
Major
10.Stitching Margin Over 1/8"
Major
11.Stitchcount Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch
Major
12.Tight Stitch Thread Tension
Major
13.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying
Major
14.High/Low Hip Pkt Plmt >
+ or - 1/8"
Major
15.Lips or Creases on Frt Pocket
Major
16.Exposed White Pocket Bag
Major
17.Wavy or Malfunction Zipper
Major
18.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled
Back Seam) < or = 1/4"
Minor
19.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back
Seam) > 1/4"
Major
20.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety
Stitch Back Seam) < or = 1/8"
Minor
21.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety
Stitch Back Seam) > 1/8"
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
-

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
22.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
Width of Topstitch
Major
23.Uneven, Pleating, Shirring or
Poorly Sewn Seams
Major
24.Sewn in Pleat Outside
Major
25.Sewn in Pleat Inside
< or = 1/4"
Minor
26.Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4"
Major
27.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
Over 1/8"
Major
28.Waistband Width at Ends
(Front or Back) + or - 1/4"
Major
29.Alignment of Waistband
Over 1/8"
Major
30.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
Over 1/4"
Major
31.Belt Loop Missing or Slanting
More Than 1/8"
Major
32.Uneven Hem Width > + or - 1/8"
Each Side
33.Uneven Hem Front to Back
>1/4"
34.Incorrect or Missing Bartack
Major
35.Buttonholes With Broken or
Unrepairable Threads
Major
36.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole
or Hook and Eye Over 1/8"
Major
37.Missing Button or Rivet
Major
38.Severe Puckering and Badly
Roped Hems
Major
39.Improper Interlining,
Excessive Fullness of Parts
Major
40.Interlining or Garment
Part Twisted
Major
41.Crows Feet
Major
42. Sharp Points/Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles
Critical
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
ZONE A
1.Poor Press
Major
2.Permanent Crease
Major
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks
Major
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.One or More Sewing Threads
< or = 1/4" on Outside
2.One or More Sewing Threads
> 1/4" on Outside
3.Thread Cluster on Inside
4.More Than Four Threads > 1/2"
or One or More Threads > 1"
on Inside
5.One or More Attached Threads
At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside
6.Sewn in Waste or Thread
7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8"

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

Minor

Minor

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major

Major
Minor

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-18

Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Bottoms
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) Continued
DEFECT
8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8"
9.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots
10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band or End Finish
11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches
12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion Frays
13.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
14.Twisted Legs Over 1"
15.Insecure Setting of Part
16.Incorrect Thread or Acc.
17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
18.Missing or Incorrect Labels
19.Incorrect Folding
20.Uneven Elastification
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
23. Drawstrings

ZONE A
Major

ZONE B
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Minor
Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-19

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven Bottoms

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-20

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Woven Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23 long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-21

Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Bottoms
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Foreign or Color Yarn <
or = 1/2"
5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2"
6.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
7.Texture Change
8.Bleach Spot
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Misweaves> 1/4"
2.Misweaves < or = 1/4"
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired
or Not
4.Fabric Not as Specified
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs

ZONE A
Major
Major
Major

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major

Minor
Major

Minor

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

ZONE A
Major
Minor

ZONE B
Major
Minor

Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8"
on Outside
Minor
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8"
on Outside
Major
3.Run Off Stitches < or = 1/4"
on Inside
Minor
4.Run Off Stitches > 1/4"
on Inside
Major
5.One or More Skip Stitch on
a Chain Stitch
Major
6.More Than One Skip Stitch
on a Lockstitch
Major
7.One Skip Stitch on Lockstitch
Minor
8.Incorrect Stitch Type
Major
9.Stitching Margin Variation
Needle to Edge Over 1/8"
Major
10.Stitching Margin Over 1/8"
Major
11.Stitchcount Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch
Major
12.Tight Stitch Thread Tension
Major
13.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying
Major
14.High/Low Hip Pkt Plmt >
+ or - 1/8"
Major
15.Lips or Creases on Frt Pocket
Major
16.Exposed White Pocket Bag
Major
17.Wavy or Malfunction Zipper
Major
18.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled
Back Seam) < or = 1/4"
Minor
19.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back
Seam) > 1/4"
Major
20.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety
Stitch Back Seam) < or = 1/8"
Minor

ZONE B
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
-

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


DEFECT
ZONE A
21.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety
Stitch Back Seam) > 1/8"
Major
22.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
Width of Topstitch
Major
23.Uneven, Pleating, Shirring or
Poorly Sewn Seams
Major
24.Sewn in Pleat Outside
Major
25.Sewn in Pleat Inside
< or = 1/4"
Minor
26.Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4"
Major
27.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
Over 1/8"
Major
28.Waistband Width at Ends
(Front or Back) + or - 1/4"
Major
29.Alignment of Waistband Over 1/8"
Major
30.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
Over 1/4"
Major
31.Belt Loop Missing or Slanting
More Than 1/8"
Major
32.Uneven Hem Width > + or - 1/8"
Each Side
33.Uneven Hem Front to Back
>1/4"
34.Incorrect or Missing Bartack
Major
35.Buttonholes With Broken or
Unrepairable Threads
Major
36.Misplaced Button,Buttonhole
or Hook and Eye Over 1/8"
Major
37.Missing Button or Rivet
Major
38.Severe Puckering and Badly
Roped Hems
Major
39.Improper Interlining,
Excessive Fullness of Parts
Major
40.Interlining or Garment
Part Twisted
Major
41.Crows Feet
Major
42. Sharp Points/Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles
Critical
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Poor Press
2.Permanent Crease
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks
E.Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.One or More Sewing Threads
< or = 1/4" on Outside
2.One or More Sewing Threads
> 1/4" on Outside
3.Thread Cluster on Inside
4.More Than Four Threads> 1/2"
or One or More Threads > 1"
on Inside

ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical

ZONE A
Major
Major

ZONE B
Minor
Major

Major

Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

Minor

Minor

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-22

Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Bottoms
E. Cleanliness (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
5.One or More Attached Theads
At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside
6.Sewn in Waste or Thread
7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8"
8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8"
9.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots
10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band or End Finish
11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches
12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion Frays
13.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
14.Twisted Legs Over 1"
15.Insecure Setting of Part
16.Incorrect Thread or Acc.
17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
18.Missing or Incorrect Labels
19.Incorrect Folding
20.Uneven Elastification
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
23. Drawstrings

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major

Major
Major

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

A-23

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Denim Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23 long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-24

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Denim Bottoms

Note: On pants and skirts 23 long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-25

Classification of
Visual Defects
Blazers
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT

C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)


ZONE A

ZONE B

1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak

Major

Major

2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear

Major

Major

3.Shaded Parts

Major

Major

25.Improper Interfacing/Lining, Exces-

Major

Major

26.Lining Twisted or

Major

Minor

27.Any Needle Chews

Major

Major

7.Texture Change

Major

Major

8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified

Major

Major

9. Shading Between Garments

Major

Major

4.Obvious Foreign or Color


Yarn

Garment Part Twisted

6.Poor Matching of Color or


Print Patterns

ZONE A

ZONE B

Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear

Major

Major

2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4"

Major

Major

1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4"

or Not, Needle Cut, Tear

ZONE B

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Accessories

Major

Major

29.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or


Major

Major

30.Mishaped Pocket Welt

Ticket Placement

Major

31.Uneven Yoke Seam up to 1/8"

Major

32.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8"

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

33.Uneven Pleating in Seam,


Shirring or Poorly Sewn

3.Holes of Any Size Repaired

34.Uneven or Incorrectly Placed


Darts Over 1/8"
35.Uneven Hem/Bottom of Blazer

Major

Major

Major

Major

36.Severe Puckering and Badly

to Size of Loop

Major

Minor

37.Incorrect Tack Placement

6.Improper Repair

Major

Minor

7.Any Pattern Errors

Major

Major

4.Fabric/Lining Not as Specified

ZONE A

28. Incorrect Thread or

B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT

Over 1/8"
sive Fullness of Parts

5.Not Obvious Foreign or


Color Yarn

DEFECT
24.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes

5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs up

Over 1/8" Each Side


Roped Hem
or Missing Bartack
38.Misplaced Buttonhole Over 1/2"

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

39.Misplaced Button Over 1/8"


C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT

or Missing Button
ZONE A

ZONE B

1.Run Off Stitches on Inside up to 1/8"

Major

Minor

2.Run Off Stitches on Inside Over 1/8"

Major

Major

3.One or More Skip Stitch on


Any Stitch Type
4.Incorrect Stitch Type

Part or Lining

Major

Major

Major

43. Uneven Back/Side Vents

Major

Major

44. Twisted/Misaligned Lining

Major

Major

45. Improperly Attached Buttons

Major

46. Resew on Lapel

Major

47. Exposed Basting Stitch

Major

Major

48. Improper Lapel Placement

Major

Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Minor

Major

Major

7.Any Exposed Stitch, Under


8.Blind Stitch Bite Too Deep

Hardware or Broken Needles

Major

6.Stitching Margin Variation


Over 1/16"

41. Sharp Points/ Edges on


42. Twisted Sleeve

5.Stitching Margin Variation


Needle to Edge Over 1/8"

40.Crows Feet

49. Lapel Width Side to Side


Major

Major

Major

Variance> 1/8"

9.Stitch Count Variation Over


+2 or -1 Per Inch
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension

Major

Major

Major

Major

11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose


Seam or Fraying
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8"

Major

Major

Major

Minor

Major

2.Poorly Pressed

Major

Major

3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,


Major

Major

Major

4. Improper Break of Lapel

Major

5. Excessive Wrinkle in V Zone

Major

Pressure Marks

14.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/16"

DEFECT
1.Permanent Crease Not to Spec

Major

13.High-Low Pockets or Pocket


Flaps> 1/4"

D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)

Major

15.Mishaped Lapel Point

Major

16.Incorrect Size Buttonhole

Major

Major

Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches

Major

Major

18.Incorrect Button

Major

Major

19.Missing Button

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Minor

17.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,

20.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in


4-Hole or Upside Down
21.Sewn in Pleats
22.Uneven Pleating Shirring
or Poorly Sewn Pleat
23.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
up to 1/8"

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-26

Classification of
Visual Defects
Blazers
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4"
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside of Gsrment
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8"
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8"
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visible
9.Compoment Parts Not
Securely Tacked
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garmentsq
11.Pile Direction Not as
Specified
12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Ticket Placement
13.Attached Sewing Threads at
Collar Area Over 1/8"
14.Incorrect Folding
***babyGap / GapKids***
15. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
16. Stones in Garments

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Minor

Major

Major

Major
Major
Major
Major

Major
Major
Minor
Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major
Major

Major

Critical

Critical

Critical

Critical

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-27

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Blazers

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-28

Classification of
Visual Defects
Bras
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT

C. SewingCont. (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone)


ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak

Major

Major

24. Misaligned Trim- Bow, Applique,

2. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear

Major

Major

Print, Strap, Hook & Eye, Snap, Label,

3. Shaded Parts

Major

Major

Panty Lace, Elastic Binding, Piping

4. Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn

Major

Major

25. Incorrect Bartack- Placement,

Major

Minor

26. Severe Puckering/Twisting/

or Print Patterns

Major

Major

27. Missing Trim

7. Texture Change

Major

Major

28. Misshaped Parts- Such as

8. Shading Between Garments

Major

Major

9. Assymentrical Cup Depth > 1/4"

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

5. Not Obvious Foreign or


Color Yarn

Spacing, Stitch Count

6. Poor Matching of Color

Curling

10. Incorrect Color of Component,


Thread, Trim
11. Trim/Thread Not as Specified

DEFECT

"Rounding" Cups

ZONE A

ZONE B

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

Critical

Critical

29. Protruding UnderwireOut of Channel


30. Sharp Points or Jagged Edges
on Trim
31. Component Parts Not Securely

B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT

Tacked
ZONE A

ZONE B

32. Insecure Setting of Part

Major

Major

Major

Major

1. Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not

Major

Major

33. Top of Cups Assymetrical > 1/8"

Major

2. Fabric Not as Specified

Major

Major

34. Straps Assymetrical > 1/4"

Major

3. Slubs and Misweaves</= 1/8"

Major

Minor

35. Bottom Band Assymetrical > 1/4"

Major

36. Underarm Elastic Assymetrical > 1/4"

Major

4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch,


End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle,
Needle Line, Barre

37. Center Front Placement of Bra


Major

Major

5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks,


Blotches, Print Out of Register

Assymetrical to Cups> 1/16"


38. Improper Repair

Major

Major

6. Bow or Bias Fabric

Major

Major

7. Any Print/Repeat Pattern Errors

Major

Major

8. Elastic Streach Not as Specified

Major

Major

Major

Major

Major

39. Underwire Play > 1/4" & >1/4"


Between Cups
40. Broken Needle Point Within Garment

Major

Critical

Critical

ZONE A

ZONE B

D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)


C. Sewing (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT

DEFECT
ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Permanent Crease Not as Specified

Major

1. Run Off Stitches up to 1/16"

Major

Major

Minor

2. Poorly Pressed

Major

Minor

2. Run Off Stitches > 1/16"

Major

Major

3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled

Major

Major

4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks

Major

Major

ZONE A

ZONE B

3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose
Stitches Any Type

Major

Major

4. Incorrect Stitch Type

Major

Major

E. CLEANLINESS/FINISHING (DEFECT BY ZONE)

Needle to Edge of 1/16"

Major

Minor

1. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS </= 1/4"

MAJOR

MINOR

6. Stitching Margin > 1/16"

Major

Major

2. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS > 1/4"

MAJOR

MAJOR

7. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart

Major

Major

3. ATTACHED INSIDE SEWING TRHEADS > 1/2"

MAJOR

MAJOR

8. Hem Too Deep

Major

Major

4. SEWN-IN WASTE OR THREADS

MAJOR

MAJOR

5. STAIN OR SOIL </= 1/8"

MAJOR

MINOR

6. STAIN OR SOIL > 1/8"

MAJOR

MAJOR

7. RING FROM CLEANING GUM

MAJOR

5. Stitching Margin Variation

DEFECT

9. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-1


Lock Stitch or Chain Stitch

Major

Major

Major

Major

10. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-2


Zig Zag Stitch
11. Stitch Count Variation >+3/-3
3 Step Zig Zag Stitch

OR RUBBED SPOTS

MAJOR

8. DRILL HOLE, PENCIL OR OTHER MARK


Major

Major

12. Improper Stitch Tension, Needle

VISIBLE NOTCHES
9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED

Looper or Bobbin

Major

Major

13. Cross Over Stitches

Major

Major

14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose

MAJOR

MAJOR

MAJOR

N/A
MAJOR

10. INCORRECT TICKET, TAG,


TRIM OR PLACEMENT

MAJOR

11. INCORRECT FOLDING

MAJOR

N/A

MAJOR

N/A

Seam, Fraying

Major

Major

12. MISSING/INCORRECT LABEL(S)

15. Misaligned Parts

Major

Major

13. WRONG COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ON LABEL

MAJOR

N/A

14. INCORRECT PACKING/PACKAGING

MAJOR

N/A

16. Uneven Shirring/Poorly Sewn


Pleat or Dart

Major

Major

15. THREAD KNOTS

MAJOR

N/A

17. Sewn in Pleats

Major

Major

16. EXCESS SEWING THREADS BETWEEN PLYS

MAJOR

MAJOR

18. Mismatch Stripes/Plaids > 1/8"

Major

Major

19. Improper Interlining

Major

Major

20. Excessive Fullness in Parts

Major

Major

21. Twisting to Component Parts

Major

Major

22. Twisted Straps

Major

MAJOR

MAJOR

23. Needle Chews/Feed Dog Abrasion

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-29

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Bras & Bodysuits

Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-30

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Bras & Bodysuits

Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-31

Classification of
Visual Defects
Underwear
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT

C. SewingCont. (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone)


ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak

Major

N/A

23. Misaligned Trim- Bow, Applique,

2. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear

Major

N/A

Print, Strap, Hook & Eye, Snap, Label,

3. Shaded Parts

Major

N/A

Panty Lace, Elastic Binding, Piping

4. Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn

Major

N/A

24. Incorrect Bartack- Placement,

Major

N/A

25. Severe Puckering/Twisting/

or Print Patterns

Major

N/A

26. Missing Trim

7. Texture Change

Major

N/A

27. Misshaped Parts- Such as

8. Shading Between Garments

Major

N/A

5. Not Obvious Foreign or


Color Yarn

Spacing, Stitch Count

6. Poor Matching of Color

Curling

9. Incorrect Color of Component,


Thread, Trim
10. Trim/Thread Not as Specified

"Rounding" Cups

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not

Major

N/A

2. Fabric Not as Specified

Major

N/A

3. Slubs and Misweaves</= 1/8"

Major

N/A

4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch,

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

Tacked

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

30. Legs Assymetrical > 1/4" or Uneven Elastification

Major

N/A

31. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides > 4"

Major

N/A

32. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides < 4"

Major

N/A

33. Improper Repair

Major

N/A

D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT
Major

N/A

5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks,


Blotches, Print Out of Register

ZONE B

29. Insecure Setting of Part

End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle,


Needle Line, Barre

ZONE A

28. Component Parts Not Securely

B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT

DEFECT

ZONE A

ZONE B

1. Permanent Crease

Major

N/A

2. Poorly Pressed

Major

N/A

Major

N/A

3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled

Major

N/A

6. Bow or Bias Fabric

Major

N/A

4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks

Major

N/A

7. Any Print/Repeat Pattern Errors

Major

N/A

8. Elastic Streach Not as Specified

Major

N/A

ZONE A

ZONE B

E. CLEANLINESS/FINISHING (DEFECT BY ZONE)


DEFECT

C. Sewing (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone)


DEFECT

1. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS </= 1/4"

MAJOR

N/A

2. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS > 1/4"

MAJOR

N/A

ZONE A

ZONE B

3. ATTACHED INSIDE SEWING TRHEADS > 1/2"

MAJOR

N/A

1. Run Off Stitches up to 1/16"

Major

N/A

4. SEWN-IN WASTE OR THREADS

MAJOR

N/A

2. Run Off Stitches > 1/16"

Major

N/A

5. STAIN OR SOIL </= 1/8"

MAJOR

N/A

6. STAIN OR SOIL > 1/8"

MAJOR

N/A

7. RING FROM CLEANING GUM

MAJOR

3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose
Stitches Any Type

Major

N/A

4. Incorrect Stitch Type

Major

N/A

5. Stitching Margin Variation

OR RUBBED SPOTS

Needle to Edge of 1/16"

Major

N/A

6. Stitching Margin > 1/16"

Major

N/A

9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED

7. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart

Major

N/A

10. INCORRECT TICKET, TAG,

8. Hem Too Deep

Major

N/A

9. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-1


Lock Stitch or Chain Stitch

Major

N/A

10. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-2


Zig Zag Stitch

Major

N/A

11. Stitch Count Variation >+3/-3


3 Step Zig Zag Stitch

N/A

8. DRILL HOLE, PENCIL OR OTHER MARK

Major

N/A

VISIBLE NOTCHES

MAJOR

N/A

MAJOR

N/A

TRIM OR PLACEMENT

MAJOR

N/A

11. INCORRECT FOLDING

MAJOR

N/A

12. MISSING/INCORRECT LABEL(S)

MAJOR

N/A

13. WRONG COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ON LABEL

MAJOR

N/A

14. INCORRECT PACKING/PACKAGING

MAJOR

N/A

15. THREAD KNOTS

MAJOR

N/A

16. EXCESS SEWING THREADS BETWEEN PLYS

MAJOR

N/A

12. Improper Stitch Tension, Needle


Looper or Bobbin

Major

N/A

13. Cross Over Stitches

Major

N/A

Seam, Fraying

Major

N/A

15. Misaligned Parts

Major

N/A

14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose

16. Uneven Shirring/Poorly Sewn


Pleat or Dart

Major

N/A

17. Sewn in Pleats

Major

N/A

18. Mismatch Stripes/Plaids > 1/8"

Major

N/A

19. Improper Interlining

Major

N/A

20. Excessive Fullness in Parts

Major

N/A

21. Twisting to Component Parts

Major

N/A

22. Needle Chews/Feed Dog Abrasion

Major

N/A

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-32

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-33

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.


Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-34

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-35

Gap / GapKids / babyGap


Old Navy
Banana Republic
Underwear

Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.

Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

AII-36

Gap Inc.
Quality Assurance Manual
February, 2001

The End
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001

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