Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Gap Quality Manual
Gap Quality Manual
Gap
Banana Republic
Old Navy
0DUFKVW
In-line and Interim inspections have been combined and are now called In-process
inspections.
Forms have been changed to global forms.
Country of Origin information is no longer included in the QA manual the information is
in the Vendor handbook.
Shipment/Packing audit has changed to allow for non-destructive audits.
Added bar-coded ticket OCR ticket/label check into visual audit.
Measurement sampling plan has changed.
Pack audits are now the responsibility of the Vendor.
Change in the sampling plan for outlet.
We have eliminated the double sampling plan.
We have added a section for how to audit tight fitting sleepwear.
It is imperative to retrain your teams and utilize the new handbook effective March 1st, 2001 to
audit our products.
Should you have any questions please contact me directly at (415) 427-6489.
Doreen Maller
Vice President, Technical Services/Product Integrity/Global QA
Table of Contents
page #
Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 4
Contacts................................................................................................................................. 5
I.
II.
III.
In-Process Inspection
Purpose........................................................................................................................... 9
In-Process Inspection Forms ..................................................................................... 9
Cutting Inspection Procedures ................................................................................. 9
Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures.................................................................... 10
V.
Safety Procedures
Safety Procedures, kids & baby................................................................................. 26
VIII. Carton/Prepack
(Refer to Gap Inc.s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................ 30
X.
Table of Contents
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
Introduction
The purpose of the Quality Assurance Manual is to outline the procedures Quality Assurance personnel (QA) follow when
measuring the over-all performance of vendors who manufacture Gap Inc. products. This Manual will guide QA through
each stage of their assignment: new production, monitoring production, performing In-process and shipment audits and,
finally, communicating findings to merchandising /production representatives.
In addition to serving as a guide for Gap Inc. QA, this Manual was created to ensure vendors understand Gap Inc.s
expectations in categories such as products visual appearance, measurement accuracy and packing execution.
This Manual is a useful resource for QA personnel, garment vendors and GIS offices that do business with
Gap Inc. Please familiarize yourself with the Manual in its entirety, paying close attention to Gap Inc.s quality standards
as well as the penalties resulting from failure to meet those standards.
If you have any questions regarding the standards and procedures included within this manual, please contact:
Gap Inc.
Attn: Diane Maclane
2 Harrison Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
phone: (415) 427-6470
This Manual is the property of Gap Inc. This proprietary information is provided in confidence and is solely for use in
connection with dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. While in your companys possession, the Manual is to be maintained
in strict confidence and must not be divulged to anyone other than those who need to know its contents for the purpose of
your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. The Manual shall be returned to Gap Inc. immediately upon cessation of your
dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors, or upon Gap Inc.s request.
Introduction
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
Contacts
GIS Offices
GIS Americas:
GIS Egypt:
GIS Singapore:
GIS Philippines:
GIS Dubai:
GIS India:
Contacts
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2000
Contacts (cont)
GIS Istanbul:
Route De Sousse
Telboulba, ZI 5080 Tunisia
GIS Thailand:
Contacts
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2000
Obtain all additional reports relative to production being inspected, such as memos and faxes
as well as product/fabric/component testing reports.
Verify factory owns required machinery for attaching buttons (lock-stitch machines), snaps
(machines and snap supplier is on approved vendor list).
Verify factory has testing and in-house monitoring systems in place for safety and performance issues.
Verify factory has needle control procedures in place and maintains a current broken needle log.
(Note: The selection or use of an A.Q.L. does not imply that the
contractor has the right to supply any defective unit of product).
Critical Defects
A Critical Defect is defined as anything potentially harmful to the product user. A Critical Defect can be, but is not limited to,
sharp points/edges, broken needles, loose components or other foreign items which are potentially harmful. Improper or
inaccurate country of origin or fiber, component content markings and CPSC snug fitting sleepwear measurements that are
greater than tolerance are also considered Critical Defects.
Measurement
Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS). It will
state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement page of the GSS,
measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.
Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side will
be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is less
than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or majors as stated in the measurement
audit procedures. All other measurement points (those not in capital letters) are counted as minors or majors as stated in the
measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1. If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the
audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the
lot can be submitted for a second audit.
An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note these forms must be
used as is during the In-Process Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane
Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
After cutting, perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut pieces),
inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Visual Inspection Report (use the Fabric/Cutting Checklist
and defective portion).
If the factory can not correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted
for corrective action.
If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standard, color, etc. arise, the merchandiser/production
representative should be contacted for corrective action.
In-Process Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
All fabric/components/trims/labels should be checked against production approved standards, and must
reflect correct country of origin and fiber/component content. Review and record all required Gap, Inc.
fabric/component/product test reports.
Check to be sure that all components/trims/labels are available so production schedules can be met.
Perform random check in sewing lines/finishing. Verify factory is checking at least six pieces of each
operators semi-finished goods to check for workmanship defects. Record finding on the appropriate
In-process inspection report.
Check hand/color against approved standards. If standards are not available, send the merchandiser/production
representative examples of fabric colors and range of shades.
Check seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet.
Record and indicate any problems in the space provided in the In-Process Visual Inspection Worksheet
If the factory cannot correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contacted
for corrective action.
If questions regarding construction, measurements, fabric standard, color, etc. arise, the
merchandiser/production representative should be contacted for answers.
All measurement points listed in the measurement box of the specification sheet are to be measured on at
least one product of each size and color during the In-Process inspection (i.e. on unwashed or rigid garment).
This is to be done using pattern yield measurements, which are to be provided by the Vendor. Any discrepancies
are to be noted on the In-Process Visual Inspection Report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and
merchandiser/production representative.
In-Process Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
10
Record the locations of all operations such as knitting, linking and finishing. Also, record the appraisal of the
factorys capacities. The first In-Process inspection must begin at the knitting stage with photographs taken
of every style during work in progress. Knitting panel inspection must be conducted at the intervals listed
below depending on the size of a program:
a)
b)
c)
When products are transferred from one location to another, a visual and measurement inspection report must
be performed using the same criteria as the shipment Inspection procedures. Any discrepancies are to be noted
on the Visual and Measurements Inspection report and brought to the attention of the Vendor and
merchandiser/production representative.
In-Process Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
11
An example of each form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note, these forms must be
used as is during the Shipment Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact
Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
12
Measurement Audit
Measurement Audit Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit:
Measurements should be taken on products after wash, after press and sometimes before packing. Major
measurement defects are to be judged using an A.Q.L. of 6.5. Only critical measurement points highlighted
on the specification sheet (*) are taken at the time of the shipment audit. A product with more than one
major measurement defect is counted as a major defect.
Measure products at critical measurement points which are noted with a (*) on the approved specification sheet.
Determine the results based on the A.Q.L. 6.5 pass/fail levels for major defects, and the percent defective
for minor defects (Reference Measurement Audit Sampling Plan).
Put a CIRCLE around minor defects (i.e. measurements which are out of tolerance but do not exceed grade).
Waist measurements on woven bottoms, which are out of tolerance, are to be counted as
major defects. Please check the waist and inseam requirements on the specification sheet
for what constitutes a major defect on every style, as this can vary between styles and fabrics.
Put a TRIANGLE around major defects (i.e. measurements that are out of tolerance and exceed the grade). If a
measurement point has no grade or if the grade is less than the stated tolerance or measurements that exceed
the tolerance than it will be considered major defects.
If the total number of circled measurements is less than or equal to the number of minor defects allowed, and
if the total number of triangle measurements is less than or equal to the number of major defects allowed, the
measurement audit passes. Both minor and major measurements must be in the allowed range to pass the
measurement audit.
If the total number of circled measurements is more than the number of minor defects allowed, the audit
fails.
If the total number of triangle measurements is more than the number of majors allowed, the audit fails.
Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS).
It will state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement
page of the GSS, measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.
Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
(Measurement Audit Sampling Plan, page 16)
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
13
Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS - that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+)
side will be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL
LETTERS - that is less than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or
majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures. All other measurement points - those not in capital letters are counted as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to
be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.
Measurements
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 6.5 A.Q.L.
Lot Size Mixed Color
Sample Size
1 Color
2 Colors
3 Colors
4 Colors
5 Colors
More than (5) Colors
20
32
50
80
80
125
Major 6.5
Pass
3
5
7
10
10
14
Fail
4
6
8
11
11
15
For woven and knit items, 10% of measurement points pass if found to be out of tolerance,
but not exceeding the grade (e.g. If there are 9 measurement points on a pant and 32 garments to be
measured, there would be a total of 288 measurement points. That shipment will then pass, if there are
not more than 29 minor defect measurement points (10%) out of the 288 taken out of tolerance).
For sweater items, 15% of the measurement points will pass if out of tolerance, but not exceeding
grade. Apply the same formula found above.
If the audit fails, the merchandiser/production representative should be notified for corrective action.
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
14
Visual Audit
Visual Audit Methods
There are two methods for auditing visuals. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap Inc.
designated personnel performing the audit:
Option 1: Non-Destructive Visual Audit (audit performed before garments boxed).
Option 2: Visual Auditing begins after boxing/packing process has started.
Visual Inspection Worksheet (tool to be used for non-destructive audits that occur over an extended
period of time)
At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, reference the Classification of Visual Defects Sheets (Chapter X, Appendix II).
An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. An example of each reference sheet
can found in Chapter XI, Appendix II, of this manual. Please note these forms and sheets must be used as is
during the Visual Audit. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane
at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
0-500
501-1,200
1,201-3,200
3,201-10,000
10,001-35,000
35,001-UP
Garment Visuals
Sample
Size
20
32
50
80
125
200
Critical 0.1
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
Major 4.0
Pass/Fail
2/3
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
14/15
Minor 6.5
Pass/Fail
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
14/15
21/22
Ticket Check
(OCR)
Major .25
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
1/2
1/2
15
0-500
501-1,200
1,201-3,200
3,201-10,000
10,001-35,000
35,001-UP
Garment Visuals
Sample
Size
20
32
50
80
125
200
Critical 0.1
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
Major 2.5
Pass/Fail
1/2
2/3
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
Minor 6.5
Pass/Fail
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
14/15
21/22
Ticket Check
(OCR)
Major .25
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
1/2
1/2
Since this type audit may take place over an extended period of time (e.g. more than one day),
the non-destructive visual process is selected and the Visual Inspection Worksheet may be used.
When the visual audit is performed over more than one day, the results recorded on the Visual Inspection
Worksheet must be reviewed and signed by factory management. The information on this worksheet
must be transferred and attached to the Visual Inspection Report.
When this visual audit procedure is employed, the Gap representative must insure immediate corrective action
is taken to correct any defects found. This will insure other garments in this audit will not contain the
following defects:
a) Critical visual defects are based on an A.Q.L. of 0.1 for all divisions.
Critical visual defects are defined as defects that may cause bodily injury to the
wearer. One critical defect found during the shipment audit would cause the audit
to fail. All the goods in a fail audit must be re-inspected 100% by factory to remove
all critical defective items prior to been audited again by Gap field auditor or its
appointed agent.
b) OCR/Ticket/Label Check is based on a 0.25 AQL.
c) Major visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 4.0 for Gap Divisions and Old Navy,
2.5 for Banana Republic and product being sold in Japan.
d) Minor visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 6.5 for all divisions.
e) Pass/fail numbers for minor/major defects are to be counted separately.
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
16
Any trim that contains an OCR (BARCODE) information must be audited during the Visual
auditing process. This will be a separate audit and results must be posted to the Visual Inspection
Report. When an incorrect OCR trim/label/ticket is detected, the facility must perform an
additional audit of OCR trims to determine the severity of the problem as well as the correction.
This audit will consist of a sample size of 315 pieces. This audit will pass on two (2) incorrect
OCR trims and fail on three (3). The AQL for the OCR trims/label/ticket audit is 0.25. If this
additional audit passes, the entire audit may be passed. However, if this second (additional) audit fails,
the factory must re-inspect 100% of the shipment for incorrect OCR trims. OCR trims are normally
price tickets on knits and woven shirts and matchbooks on woven etc. bottoms. The OCR is the
line that is scanned in the stores that indicates the price and style. This information is vital to insure
that the replenishment of inventory in our Distribution Centers and stores is accurate.
g) While performing the visual audit any defects as follows will be counted as a major defect in the
visual audit:
1) Incorrect size strip (31x31 strip on a 34x31 pair of pants)
2) Incorrect flasher
3) Incorrect (wrong size) of logo label
4) Incorrect non-OCR (BARCODED) price ticket
(These items must correspond to the Bill of Materials
(BOM) on the GSS as to item number and size)
5) Above items are coordinated by size and style
h) The lot size is the total number of units to the shipment. The selection of a random sample
must be conducted according to ratio based on quantity, number of sizes, and various colors
in a program.
i)
Sample size will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used.
j)
More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect.
k) If consistent minor defects occur which affect the overall appearance of the product, the
shipment audit fails. This failure must be brought to the attention of the merchandise/production
representative.
l)
If the number of visual defects is equal to or less than the number allowed per the sampling plan, the audit
passes. The defective products found are to be sent back for repair or seconded.
If the number of visual defects is more than the number allowed, the audit fails. The merchandiser/production
representative is to be notified to determine disposition of the shipment.
Complete the Visual Inspection Report. Record the fabric/production test reports numbers in the appropriate
area. If not available, fax to production representative and Director of Product Integrity.
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
17
If the audit fails, record when the re-audit is to take place in the comment column. If re-audit takes place at
that time, use the same procedures as new audit, including packing.
If shade variations occur within a shipment, the merchandiser/production representative is to be notified and
samples sent to merchandiser/production representative for approval.
If the merchandiser/production representative requests that the shades be separated the carton shade marks
should be checked during shipment.
During the shipment audit, packaging and labeling should be checked closely to insure conformance to standards
including proper Country of Origin and fiber content markings.
When multiple Purchase Orders are ready for shipment, they can be combined and the audit performed on a
sample taken from this combination. If the audit fails, all Purchase Orders fail; if it passes all Purchase Orders
pass.
It is mandatory to check the weight of each size for the following garments at shipment audit. Sweaters
and fine knit for babyGap (for quota purposes).
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
18
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
19
Pack Audit
Terms to know during the pack audit: FA means Factory Audit and AA means Audit Assessment. These terms
must be used to differentiate similar terms used in the Distribution Centers.
Before beginning this assessment, QA personnel must ask the factory/vendor representative
for the results of their audit. When performing this assessment, the Gap Inc. auditor must place a AA
on each box in the assessment. This will be placed in the same area as the FA. Otherwise, place this in
the upper right hand of the box information label in a 1x1 space. This AA is not to be covered by tape or
labels because it will be used by Distribution Center QA during their pack assessment.
Gap Inc. QA or those designated by Gap Inc. to perform shipment audits, will be responsible for a 10%
assessment of this factory/vendor audit.
Major Defects for Pack Audits
a) Incorrect quantity
b) Carton labeling errors
c) Incorrect Pre-Pack
Assortments
Amounts
Pre-Pack Stickers
d) Carton not as specified (size and construction)
e) Crushed or damaged cartons
f) Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons
When performing the pack audit, the vendor must place an FA on each box audited. This FA must be placed
in a one inch by one inch space (1x1) at the top right hand corner of the box information label (the label
containing Purchase Order, style, quantity, etc.). This FA must not be covered with tape or other labels.
because it will be used as a guide by Gap Inc. field personnel and Gap Inc. Distribution Centers to verify
audits and assess these cartons.
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
20
Upon failure of an assessment, the auditor will continue the random sampling, using the Factory Pack Audit
Sample Plan. If the Factory Pack Audit fails, the factory must then take appropriate action to correct the
problems found. Discuss the results with factory representatives. Receive and record the factory action plan to
correct the issues found in the audit. A re-audit will then be performed (not assessment) to verify the packing
errors were corrected. A re-audit will be performed and recorded on a separate Visual Inspection Report. Attach
this re-audit to the original Visual Inspection Report.
Upon completion of this assessment and/or audit, complete the appropriate section in the Visual Inspection
Report. Record the results of the Audit Assessment (AA) and the results of the Factory Audit (FA).
If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser/production representative for corrective action.
The assessment will be performed on 10% of the number of boxes that are audited by the factory/vendor.
Example: if there are 1005 boxes in the shipment, the factory/vendor will audit 80 boxes. Gap Inc. personnel
would then perform an 8 box assessment (10% of 80 boxes). Again there is a zero tolerance in this assessment.
Any defects will require more action to be taken (i.e. complete audit, re-inspect by factory, etc.) The
assessment may or may not be taken for the same exact boxes on the Factory (FA) Audit. The best practice
would be to pull the sample from both populations (boxes not in FA and boxes in FA).
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (2) .65 AQL
# of cartons
5-15
15-50
51-150
151-500
501-1,200
1,201-UP
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
21
Prototype Pack
For each Full Carton/CD Flow Pack purchase order, the Vendor is required to have in their packing
department a prototype packed carton for training. This prototype is to be approved by Gap QA.
Sample Size
The Vendor should determine what quantity of cartons can be packed, and held, before closing the cartons.
This carton quantity becomes the population from which the sample is drawn. The way a sampling plan
works is the larger the population the smaller the sample size is as a percent of the population. To optimize
the inspection time, the maximum quantity of cartons packed and labeled but not closed is desired. Once
that number is determined, the Vendor should choose the sampling size from the pack audits sampling plan
(0.65 AQL).
It is important for the Vendor to keep the population size at a level that takes into consideration the staging
area available as well as the factorys accuracy history. If an audit does not take place until the population is
large, a great deal of extra handling will take place if it fails. We recommend that in the beginning, a Vendor
that is new to full carton pre-packs choose a small population to audit until history can be developed and
expertise learned.
A same criterion for major packing errors is to be used as a normal shipment audit; use the same criterion as
listed under Pack Audits. (FA and AA procedures).
Gap Inc. will perform an assessment after the audit is completed by the factory/vendor.
Should Vendors allow improperly packaged merchandise to ship, it will be the responsibility of the Vendor
to pay for any special handling required later, in order to correct those errors at Gap Inc.s Distribution
Centers.
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
22
Loose threads are properly trimmed and loose buttons attached properly.
Leg sticker/matchbook and any trim items are correctly coordinated to size label.
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
23
Packing audits are to be conducted using Level (2) .65 AQL (see Pack Audit, page:).
Merchandise not gold lined through the labels, as described in the Vendor Handbook, are considered majors.
Thirds are defined as merchandise that is not wearable or would cause embarrassment to the wearer.
Complete and submit to Outlet, the Visual Inspection Report and/or the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.
24
0-500
501-1,200
1,201-3,200
3,201-10,000
10,001-35,000
Sample Size
20
32
50
80
125
Thirds
Pass
1
1
2
3
5
Fail
2
2
3
4
6
CLASS OF GARMENT
SECONDS
THIRDS/ NOT
ACCEPTABLE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
X on approval
8.
Underweight garments
X on approval
9.
10.
X on approval
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
Holes
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
Shipment Inspection
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
25
X. Safety Procedures
It is mandatory that all raw materials, trim components, and actual production garments be evaluated by a
Gap, Inc. approved testing laboratory. For specific information regarding Gapkids and babyGap, refer to Gap Inc.s
Product Safety Standards and Procedures Manual for Infants and Children.
The following are QA procedures when performing a Safety audit:
Check factory Needle Control Procedure Log; sign and date log. Ask factory management and
operators to explain needle control procedures. Make sure log is filled out properly and is up to date.
Take a photocopy of the latest entry page; attach to your report.
Check needle detector if factory has one. Check date of machines last service and calibration. Test machine
and its sensitivity adjustment. Perform test with 1.2mm sphere test card. Review occurrence log for
needles that have been detected.
Check for lock-stitch button machines. If there are none, report to merchant as soon as possible. Advise
operable factory that lock-stitch button machines are required. If they have lock-stitch, verify they have
enough machines to handle production requirements, using the Pull Test.
Check snap equipment and parts to make sure they are on the approved list of suppliers. Make sure
pneumatic and electric press equipment is made by an approved snap vendor. Make sure dies match snaps
and that prongs on snaps are long enough to properly mate and secure the snap, using the Pull Test.
Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for further instruction.
Hand/foot press or flywheel equipment is not allowed. Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for
further instruction.
Safety Procedures
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
26
An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note that this form must be used
during the Broken Needle Inspection. If need be, additional columns can be added to the forms for documenting
information, but existing columns/formatting can not be removed from this form. If there are questions or change
requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
When needles break, every effort must be made to locate all fragments.
Pins, staples, wire or metal clips should not be used in the bundling, sewing
or laundry process.
Before you start to do In-Process audits, you should walk through the production lines to verify
needle control procedures.
Ask a few operators, at random, to explain what they do if a needle breaks. Proceed to do audit, if
they detail the correct procedure. If they are not following the correct procedure, discuss your
findings with the factory manager.
27
Search the floor for used or broken needle parts. Pick up and save any you find to discuss with
factory management.
Check around a few operators machines for spare or broken needles. Lift the machine head to see
if used or broken needles are present in the oil pan. Collect and save needles to discuss with factory
management.
Check the broken needle log for accuracy. Sign and date the log if it is in order. Make sure all
broken parts have been found and are taped to the log for each entry. If only part of the broken
needle is attached to log, further investigation is required.
Vendors who have needle detection equipment must verify the calibration and accuracy o the
machine once per hour. This can be done with a 1.2mm check card. A log should be kept to record
any broken needles or other metal products found.
OSHA requires that contaminated needles, those that may or may not be broken but have
punctured human skin, must be disposed of in a blood borne pathogen container.
28
Country of Origin
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
29
VIII. Carton/Prepack
For carton sizes, specifications, labelling and pre-pack definitions refer
to Gap Inc.s Vendor Handbook
Carton/Prepack
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
30
IX.
Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-1
(________________OFFICE
RANDOM/UNANNOUNCED
IN LINE (SCHEDUALED)
STYLE NO.______________________
CONTRACT SHIPMENT DATE_______________INSPECTION DATE:_________
P.O. NO. ______________________
ANTICIPATED SHIPMENT DATE_____________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____
______________________
ORDER QUANTITY_____________________
VENDOR:__________________
DEPT.:_________________________
COLOR:______________________________
FACTORY:_________________
FABRIC TEST # __________________
FACTORY CODE____________
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:________________________________________
AUDITOR:__________________
PLANNED PRODUCTION ARRANGEMENT (COMPLETE AT "IN-LINE ONE" ONLY EXCEPT FOR CHANGES TO PLAN
SAME AS IN-LINE
FACTORY COUNTRY LOCATIO ONE
YES
NO
FABRIC/KNIT PANEL
YES
NO
CUTTING
YES
NO
MINOR SEWING
YES
NO
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN
YES
NO
FINISHING
MANFACTORING PROCESS CONFERRING COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
ACTUAL PRODUCTION STATUS:
FABRIC(EG. BLANKETS
KTS. PANEL
ASSEMBLY
STATUS
CUTTING/KNITTING
MINOR SEWING
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN
FINISHING
PACKING
FABRIC CUTTING
SEWING
SHADING
THREAD
STRIPE MATCH
SEAM
CUTTING REPORTS
PATTERN
LINKING/LOOPING/
MENDING
FINISHING
WASHING
CLR FASTNES
STITCH
SHAPES/SYMMETR
IRONING/SHAPE
OTHERS
SEAM/ LK/ LP
KNITTING
MEND
PULL TESTING
BTN/ HOLES
NECK STRETRCH GA
NEEDLE DETECT
FOLDING
BARTAKING
PLY MATCHING
POCKETING
TICKETING
OTHER
OTHER
HEMMING
POLYBAG
BARTACKING
CARTON
LINING
MARKINGS
SNAP MACHINE
HANGTAGS
SPECS
LOCKSTITCH BUT
CLEANING
BUTTON HOLES
A = ACCEPTABLE
NEEDLE CONTRO
PRESSING
MARKER
LABEL POSITION
SAFETY CHECK
SNAP TEST
PACKING
U = UNACCEPTABLE
DATE
_____________________________
Q.A. MANAGER INITIALS / DATE
Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-2
Factory Representative
Color
Style Number
Subtotal
Minor
Critical Major
Check
Critical
Major
Date
OCR
Date
Visauls
Qty. Inspected
Ship Quantity
Qty. Inspected
Appendix I
Comments:
Type of Defect
Purchase Orders
7+(*$3,1&
Minor
Check
OCR
Critical
Date
Major
Qty. Inspected
Sample Size
Minor
Check
OCR
Critical
Date
Major
Qty. Inspected
Minor
Check
OCR
Critical
Date
Major
Qty. Inspected
Pass/Fail
Minor
Check
OCR
Minors
Majors
Total Defects
Total Inspected
Minors
OCR
Majors
Critical
AI-3
Gauge
S.P.I.
Measure
Thread/
Tension Margin
No.
operator
Units
Appendix I
GENERAL COMMENTS
OPERATION
Comments
PLANT MANAGER______________
No.
Defects
AI-4
VENDOR:
_________________
SUBCONTRACTOR: _________________
WEEK OF:
_________________
Style
Number
Appendix I
Vertical Placement:
_________
Horizontal Placement: _________
Placement
Placement
Press Print/Other
Total Units Total Units
Problems Found/
ID
Registration Color Vertical Tol. Actual Horizontal Tol. Actual Inspected Defective Name Corrective Action
Date and
Time
AI-5
OFFICE)
VISUAL INSPECTION REPORT
SHIPMENT
REAUDIT
VENDOR__________________
ORDER QTY.__________________INSPECTION DATE_________
DIVISION_________________
VENDOR STYLE#______________ AUDITOR_________________
CONT. SHIP DATE__________
FIRST COSTS$________________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____
COLOR___________________
FACTORY_________________
DESCRIPTION_____________________________________________ FACTORY CODE___________
DC
P.O. #
GAP STYLE#
SHIP QTY
DC
P.O. #
______________________
AUDITOR (DATE)
______________________
MERCHANDISER (DATE)
GAP STYLE#
SHIP QTY
________________________
Q.A. MANAGER (DATE)
_______________________
MERCHANDISING MG (DATE)
CRITICAL
CRITICAL
MAJOR
MINOR
MAJOR
MINOR
PASS
FAIL
SUMMARY: ______________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
COMMENTS: _____________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY:
(FACTORY REP)
Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-6
NO.
CRITICAL
VISUAL DEFECT
MAJOR
MINOR
TOTAL
CTN. Ship
TEST REPORT#
PULL TEST#
GARMENT TEST#
FABRIC TEST#
SPEC.
ACTUAL
_________
_________
_________
THE ABOVE AUDIT IS A RANDOM REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLING OF THE WHOLE LOT ONLY.
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.
MERCHANDISING
Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-7
TOL
MAJOR
MINOR
AUDIT =
PASS<
AUDIT =
PASS<
>
>
AUDIT =
FAIL
AUDIT =
FAIL
SPEC
.10
%=
COLOR:
GAP STYLE #
PERCENT MAJORS
ACTUAL MAJORS
PERCENT MINORS
ACTUAL MINORS
SPEC
Appendix I
SPEC
TOTAL
GRAND
AUDIT
TOT 2ND
PG. TOTAL
PREV
TOTAL
PAGE
( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )
SIGNED BY:
CONFIRMED AND
PM / PO#
VENDOR STYLE #
Q.A. SIGNATURE
VENDOR
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INCS SPECIFIED DESTINATIONS
AUDIT FAILED
AUDIT PASSED
SPEC
PATTERN #
PARTICULARS
SHIPMENT
DATE:
SAMPLE SIZE
INTERIM
AI-8
MINOR MAJOR
TOL SPEC
MAJOR
MINOR
AUDIT =
PASS <
AUDIT =
PASS <
>
>
AUDIT =
FAIL
AUDIT =
FAIL
SPEC
.10
%=
COLOR:
GAP STYLE #
PERCENT MAJORS
ACTUAL MAJORS
PERCENT MINORS
ACTUAL MINORS
SPEC
VENDOR STYLE #
PM / PO#
VENDOR
Appendix I
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INCS SRECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS
AUDIT FAILED
AUDIT PASSED
CB / BODY LENGTH
CF LENGTH
CUFF OPENING
SLEEVE WIDTH
BICEP
ARMHOLE
SLEEVE LENGTH
SHOULDER
BOTTOM
WAIST
CHEST
NECK DROP
NECK WIDTH
NECK OPENING
PARTICULARS
PATTERN #
SHIPMENT
1ST. SAMPLE SIZE
INTERIM
DATE:
SAMPLE SIZE
( TOPS )
SPEC
TOTAL
GRAND
AUDIT
TOT 2ND
PG. TOTAL
PREV
TOTAL
( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )
SIGNED BY:
CONFIRMED AND
Q.A. SIGNATURE
MINOR
AI-9
MAJOR
AUDIT FAILED
AUDIT PASSED
MAJOR
MINOR
AUDIT =
PASS <
AUDIT =
PASS <
>
>
AUDIT =
FAIL
AUDIT =
FAIL
SPEC
.10
%=
COLOR:
GAP STYLE #
PERCENT MAJORS
ACTUAL MAJORS
PERCENT MINORS
ACTUAL MINORS
SPEC
VENDOR STYLE #
PM / PO#
VENDOR
Appendix I
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INCS SPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS
INSEAM
BOTTOM
KNEE
THIGH
FLY OPENING
BACK RISE
FRONT RISE
SEAT ( BELOW WB )
WAIST ( BOTTOM )
WAIST ( TOP )
TOL SPEC
PATTERN #
PARTICULARS
SHIPMENT
DATE:
SAMPLE SIZE
INTERIM
{ BOTTOMS }
SPEC
TOTAL
GRAND
AUDIT
TOT 2ND
PG. TOTAL
PREV
TOTAL
PAGE
( FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE )
SIGNED BY:
CONFIRMED AND
Q.A. SIGNATURE
MINOR
AI-10
MAJOR
GAP INC.
Outlet Factory Outlet
INSPECTION REPORT
SHIPMENT
DATE
GFO STYLE#
VENDOR/MAKER:
ADDRESS:
PREPACK#
QTY ORDERED:
DEPT:
PO#
QTY TO BE SHIPPED:
AUDITOR:
COLOR:
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:
TOTAL CARTONS:
DESCRIPTION:
No.
Defectives
Thirds
ACCEPT
TOTALS
REJECT
ACCEPT/REJECT RANGE
AUDIT PASSED
1st sample
INSPECTED QTY.
DEFECTIVE QTY.
2nd sample
INSPECTED QTY.
DEFECTIVE QTY.
Cumulative Sample
INSPECTED QTY.
DEFECTIVE QTY.
AUDIT FAILED
THIRDS
% Packing Defectives
DEFECTIVE %
THIRDS
THIRDS
THIRDS
Type of Defect
Qty. Found
SUMMARY:
COMMENTS:
Sample Size:
Audit Passed:
Audit Failed:
QA SIGNATURE (DATE)
MERCHANDISER (DATE)
MERCHANDISER (DATE)
DIR. OF PRODUCTION
The audit above is a random representative sampling of the whole lot only.
ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.S
SPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS (QA MANUAL 02/01
Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-11
OPERATOR
NAME
MACHINE #
Appendix I
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
DATE /TIME
OF BREAK
FACTORY: _________________________
PRODUCT
STYLE
GAP INC.
DIVISION
SUPERVISOR
COUNTRY: __________________________
GAP
AUDITOR
CHECK
AI-12
DATE
CHECKED
CONTACT: _____________________
UNITS
PARTICULARS:
UNITS
(FACTORY REPRESENTATION)
QA SIGNATURE
CONFIRMED AND
SIGNED BY:
_______________
_______________
GAP STYLE#
DESCRIPTION:
COLOR:
Appendix I
1. Incorrect quantity
2. Incorrect price tickets
AUDIT FAILED
AUDIT PASSED
DATE:
PM/PO#
VENDOR:
MAKER:
AI-13
10
X.
Any critical defect found during an audit fails that audit and requires the factory to
re-inspect 100% of the product. Once all critical defects are removed, the order
must be audited by a Gap Inc. auditor or their designated representative.
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-1
ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
-
Major
Major
Major
-
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-2
Classification of Visual
Defects Woven and Knit
Dresses/Jumpsuits
Coats/Jackets
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
ZONE A
46.Slanting Belt Loops More
Than 1/8" Out of Vertical
or Missing
Major
47.Uneven Hem Over 1/8" Each
Side
48.Severe Puckering and Badly
Roped Hem
Major
49.Incorrect Bartack Placement
or Missing Bartack
Major
50.Misplaced Buttonhole or
Hook and Eye Over 1/8"
Major
51.Misplaced Button Over 1/8"
or Missing Button
Major
52.Misplaced Rivet Over 1/8"
or Missing Rivet
Major
53.Crows Feet
Major
54. Sharp Points/ Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles
Critical
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Permanent Crease
2.Poorly Pressed
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Minor
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-3
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-4
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-5
Classification of Visual
Defects KnitTops
and Activewear
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Obvious Foreign or Color
Yarn
5.Not Obvious Foreign or
Color Yarn
6.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
7.Texture Change
8.Shading Between Garments
ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Majors
Major
-
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
-
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
-
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-6
Classification of Visual
Defects Knit Tops
and Activewear
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Poor Press
2.Permanent Crease
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Pressure Marks
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Threads up to 1/4"
2.Attached Threads Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside of Garment
4.Sewn in Waste or Thread on
Outside
5.Stail,Soil Oil to 1/8"
6.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots Over 1/4"
7.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band Finish
8.Visible Drill Hole or Notches
or Pencil Mark
9.Needle Chews or Feed-Dog
Abrasion Frays
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
11.Twisted Legs Over 1"
12.Nap Up/Down, Shaded Parts
13.Pile Direction Not as
Specified
14.Insecure Setting of Part
15.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
16.Missing or Incorrect Labels
17.Incorrect Folding
18.Asymetric Garment More
Than 1"
19.Uneven Elastification(Pant)
***babyGap / GapKids***
20. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Drawstrings at Head & Neck
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-7
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-8
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-9
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Shirts
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Obvious Foreign or Color
Yarn
5.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
6.Texture Change
7.Bleach Spot
8. Shading Between Garments
ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Critical
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
-
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-10
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Shirts
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4"
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside Garment
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8"
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8"
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visible
9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion
10.Component Parts Not
Securely Tacked
11.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
***babyGap / GapKids***
13. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
14. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
15. Drawstrings at Head & Neck
ZONE A
ZONE B
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-11
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-12
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Shirts
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Bleach Streaks
2.Dirt Spots
3.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
4.Shaded Parts
5.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
6.Texture Change
7.Bleach Spot
8.Stone Bruises
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Misweaves up to 1/4"
2.Misweaves Over 1/4"
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired
or Not
4.Fabric Not as Specified
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs
ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Critical
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-13
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Shirts
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4"
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside Garment
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8"
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8"
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visable
9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion
10.Component Parts Not
Securely Tacked
11.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
Label,Ticket or Wrong Ticket
***babyGap / GapKids***
13. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
14. Stones in Garments
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
ZONE A
ZONE B
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
AII-14
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-15
Classification Of
Visual Defects
Sweaters
A. Appearance and Color (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Unevenq Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprint, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Poor Match of Color
5.Light Soil, Foreign Yarn,
Visible Oil, Stains
6.Texture Changed
7.Obvious Foreign or Colored
Yarn
8.Not Obvious Foreign or
Colored Yarn
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Knitting Components (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Slubs and Misweaves
2.Slubs Larger Than Loop
3GG,5GG,7GG-up
3.Barre, Bent Needle Slubs up
To Size Of Loop
4.Hole Dropped Stitch Not
Repaired
5.Improper Sightly Repair
6.Any Pattern Error
7.Biased Pattern 1/2" Side
to Side
ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
ZONE A
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-16
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-17
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Bottoms
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Foreign or Color Yarn <
or = 1/2"
5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2"
6.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
7.Texture Change
8.Bleach Spot
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Misweaves > 1/4"
2.Misweaves < OR = 1/4"
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired
or Not
4.Fabric Not as Specified
5.Non-Characteristics Slubs
ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
Major
Minor
ZONE B
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
-
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-18
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Bottoms
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) Continued
DEFECT
8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8"
9.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots
10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band or End Finish
11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches
12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion Frays
13.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
14.Twisted Legs Over 1"
15.Insecure Setting of Part
16.Incorrect Thread or Acc.
17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
18.Missing or Incorrect Labels
19.Incorrect Folding
20.Uneven Elastification
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
23. Drawstrings
ZONE A
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-19
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-20
Note: On pants and skirts 23 long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-21
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Bottoms
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear
3.Shaded Parts
4.Foreign or Color Yarn <
or = 1/2"
5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2"
6.Poor Matching of Color or
Print Patterns
7.Texture Change
8.Bleach Spot
9. Shading Between Garments
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Misweaves> 1/4"
2.Misweaves < or = 1/4"
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired
or Not
4.Fabric Not as Specified
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs
ZONE A
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
Major
Minor
ZONE B
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
-
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
ZONE A
Major
Major
ZONE B
Minor
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
Minor
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-22
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Bottoms
E. Cleanliness (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT
5.One or More Attached Theads
At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside
6.Sewn in Waste or Thread
7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8"
8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8"
9.Ring From Cleaning Gun
or Rub Spots
10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of
Band or End Finish
11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches
12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog
Abrasion Frays
13.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garments
14.Twisted Legs Over 1"
15.Insecure Setting of Part
16.Incorrect Thread or Acc.
17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced
Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket
18.Missing or Incorrect Labels
19.Incorrect Folding
20.Uneven Elastification
***babyGap / GapKids***
21. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
22. Stones in Garments
***babyGap / GapKids***
23. Drawstrings
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
A-23
Note: On pants and skirts 23 long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-24
Note: On pants and skirts 23 long and under there is no zone B on front.
(Measure from below the waist)
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-25
Classification of
Visual Defects
Blazers
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
3.Shaded Parts
Major
Major
Major
Major
26.Lining Twisted or
Major
Minor
Major
Major
7.Texture Change
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Accessories
Major
Major
Major
Ticket Placement
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
to Size of Loop
Major
Minor
6.Improper Repair
Major
Minor
Major
Major
ZONE A
Over 1/8"
sive Fullness of Parts
DEFECT
24.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
or Missing Button
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Part or Lining
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
40.Crows Feet
Major
Major
Variance> 1/8"
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
2.Poorly Pressed
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Pressure Marks
14.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/16"
DEFECT
1.Permanent Crease Not to Spec
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
18.Incorrect Button
Major
Major
19.Missing Button
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
17.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-26
Classification of
Visual Defects
Blazers
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
1.Attached Sewing Threads
up to 1/4"
2.Attached Sewing Threads
Over 1/4"
3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
Inside of Gsrment
4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread
5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8"
6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8"
7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Rubbed Spots
8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
Visible
9.Compoment Parts Not
Securely Tacked
10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
Garmentsq
11.Pile Direction Not as
Specified
12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Ticket Placement
13.Attached Sewing Threads at
Collar Area Over 1/8"
14.Incorrect Folding
***babyGap / GapKids***
15. Loose Components
***babyGap / GapKids***
16. Stones in Garments
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Critical
Critical
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-27
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-28
Classification of
Visual Defects
Bras
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
3. Shaded Parts
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
or Print Patterns
Major
Major
7. Texture Change
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Curling
DEFECT
"Rounding" Cups
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
Tacked
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Critical
Critical
ZONE A
ZONE B
DEFECT
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
Major
Major
Minor
2. Poorly Pressed
Major
Minor
Major
Major
3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled
Major
Major
4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks
Major
Major
ZONE A
ZONE B
3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose
Stitches Any Type
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Minor
MAJOR
MINOR
Major
Major
MAJOR
MAJOR
Major
Major
MAJOR
MAJOR
Major
Major
MAJOR
MAJOR
MAJOR
MINOR
MAJOR
MAJOR
MAJOR
DEFECT
Major
Major
Major
Major
OR RUBBED SPOTS
MAJOR
Major
VISIBLE NOTCHES
9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED
Looper or Bobbin
Major
Major
Major
Major
MAJOR
MAJOR
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
MAJOR
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
Seam, Fraying
Major
Major
Major
Major
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
Major
Major
MAJOR
N/A
Major
Major
MAJOR
MAJOR
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
Major
MAJOR
MAJOR
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-29
Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-30
Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-31
Classification of
Visual Defects
Underwear
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT
ZONE B
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
3. Shaded Parts
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
or Print Patterns
Major
N/A
7. Texture Change
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Curling
"Rounding" Cups
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
ZONE A
ZONE B
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Tacked
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
31. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides > 4"
Major
N/A
32. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides < 4"
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
N/A
ZONE B
ZONE A
DEFECT
ZONE A
ZONE B
1. Permanent Crease
Major
N/A
2. Poorly Pressed
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
ZONE A
ZONE B
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
ZONE A
ZONE B
MAJOR
N/A
Major
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
Major
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose
Stitches Any Type
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
OR RUBBED SPOTS
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
N/A
Major
N/A
VISIBLE NOTCHES
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
TRIM OR PLACEMENT
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
MAJOR
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Seam, Fraying
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Major
N/A
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-32
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-33
AII-34
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-35
Appendix II
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-36
Gap Inc.
Quality Assurance Manual
February, 2001
The End
Quality Assurance Manual, Gap Inc., February 2001