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By Farooq Soomro | February 13, 2015

Lahore still retains its touristic look; the juxtaposition of Mughal and British
heritage with a verdant landscape makes it a visual delight for a photographer.

The people are not wary of being photographed in the streets and love to
add bits of information to a casual conversation. However, they have a
sense of direction with which I have struggled much during my time in
Lahore. Lahoris have a commendable sense of helping out, almost like a
boy scout, even if they dont have the means for the favour, they continue
to offer their help in every little way possible.
In my case it was with directions. A clueless expression was instantly
followed by a fleeting conviction and pointing of hand in some direction. It
only added to my confusion. After struggling for a bit I called a Lahori
friend for help.
Where exactly is Wazir Khan, I asked.
Its in Lahore, he replied. This latest revelation did not help me much
obviously!
And Maryam Zamani?

Maryam who? Someone that I know?


I reverted to the people in the street and with few hits and misses I
succeeded in reaching both landmarks.

Maryam Zamani Mosque


The Maryam Zamani Mosque is one of the oldest Mughal mosques in
Lahore. It is named after Akbars wife Manmati, a Rajput who was
known by the title of Maryam-i-Zamani; Mary of age.
The mosque was built in 1611 opposite Masjidi Gate (populary known as
Masti Gate) of Lahore Fort.
Therefore dont look for it near the parking/entrance of Lahore Fort. Drive
around the fort and go to the opposite side and ask for Masti Gate instead
of the mosque.
Park your car near the gate. You would find the mosque tucked between
auto repair shops and the houses which have encroached around its
compound.

The mosque is in deep contrast to Badshahi mosque, which has been


preserved well. It is much smaller, but has all the characteristics of Mughal
grandeur which make them a lasting part of our heritage.

We had been out on the road for a while and reached there when people
were offering Asar prayers.
We waited patiently near one of three gates of the mosque. I asked a guy
who appeared to be the resident of one of the quarters surrounding the
mosque if women could visit.
He allowed us graciously and we stepped in. There was an ablution pond
in the middle with a rectangular canopy which was evidently added later.
There used to be a fountain in the middle which has been removed now.
We stepped inside the prayer chambers. The arches and the roof were
heavily decorated with colorful floral frescos and calligraphy.
There were three domes and the central one was heavily decorated with
floral patterns and Gods attributes painted in a circular manner.
On the either side of the chamber were staircases which led to the roof. We
took the one on the left which was in better condition. The view from the
rooftop was breathtaking.

On one end we could get the view of ablution pond along with the
surrounding bazaar and houses which seem to have encroached upon its
compound; the compound itself being few meters below the adjacent road
level already.
The mosque was desecrated in Ranjit Singhs era when it was used as
gunpowder factory. Its status was restored in 1850 but mosque is still
known as Barudkhana Wali Masjid.

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