m



 





 


 
á



 


÷ Textile Y
Y
 
Y


Y 








YY Y
 Y

 




 
 
Textile  

 
Y
 

 Y 
Y 
Y

Textiles
 
 Y 
Y
  
 

 

YY 
  Y   

 

Y 




 Animal Textiles, Plant Textiles, Mineral
Textiles, Synthetic Textiles
   

Y
 YY Y  



Y

» ×Y Y 
» 
Y 
» 
 Y 
×


The process of converting the
fibres in the form yarn is
called Spinning
A flexible material comprised
of a network of natural or
artificial fibres often referred
to as thread or yarn
Yarn is produced by spinning
raw wool fibres, linen, cotton,
or other material on a
spinning wheel to produce
long strands known as yarn
Synthetic yarns are made by
spinneret
J
!"


The process of
converting yarn in the
form of fabric is called
Weaving
Fabric formed by the
interlacement of warp
and weft yarn is called
weaving
Fabric formed by the
interlooping of yarns is
called Knitting
J#m


This is the another entirely different stage of textile sector. It
involves various stages, and can be divided as such
Pretreatments
$ V

$ V 
$ V
$

$   
Y Y Y 
Y Y Y 
m   
The term ³pretreatments´ include all operations of
preparing the textile material, such as fibres yarn and
woven, knit and non-woven fabrics and garments for
the subsequent processes for dyeing printing and
finishing.
For all practical purposes the pretreatments are carried
out along with dyeing and printing and their equipments
is part of the wet-processing plant

m


The process of application of dyes on to the substrate (fabric, yarn
or fibres ) in the solution form is called Dyeing.
The process of application of dyes on the substrate (fabric) in the
paste form is called Printing
Dyes can of various classes as mentioned
± Y  
± 
Y 
± 
 
± × 
± ÷
Y 
± Y   
± ÷ Y
 ÷ Y
Y   
Y 
 



± 
Y

Y
Y 




Y Y Y Y  Y



Y 
Y 

  
  Y 
Y
  



   Y 
 Y Y  
 Y
 
Y   

 
 Y

Y 



 






    
  

   Y  
 

  
  

 

Y 
  

 
Y 
  YY 
 Y
Y YY
 Y

 Y  
 

 Y  
Y Y Y  
 


Y
 
 
Y  Y

Y
 
Y  Y

 
Y Y
$ ×
VV
$ V 
$ V
 

$  
$  
V 
V
 
$  V  
$ 
 V 
$ 
V 
$ ×  V
xowever these also include finishes that have to meet
certain specific end uses such as

» water repellency
» Flame retardency
» Mildew proofing
u






The finishing processes are applied in various forms

and various types of finishes effect can be obtained
such as discussed below
A finish that is classified as durable is one that will
endure through successive wet or dry cleaning
A non-durable, or soluble finish, is one that will be
removed through successive washing or dry cleanings
Textile finishes applied after the coloring process
generally fall into one of two general categories
according to purpose or end result. These categories are
» wet or chemical finishes
» decorative or mechanical finishes
× u

J

 
× %

&

  
' 
 (


(


 


&) 

 


antibacterial or antiseptic
Anti-static
Easy Care
Flame retardant
Insulative
Lamination or Bonding
Mothproof
Soil repellent
Water repellent
Water absorbency finishes









Y Y Y 
Y


Y  


 

 Y 




 ×




Y Y  Y Y 

 Y  Y Y 
Y! " Y # Y Y 
 Y  Y Y 


 
 Y 
$

 Y Y 
$  Y Y 

 
 Y Y 
Y Y

 Y 
  
 Y Y 

Y! Y Y 

 Y Y 

! Y Y 
Y  Y Y 
 Y Y Y 
× Y 
 Y 





 Y Y  are the adherence of tiny
fibers or fine particles to create a pile effect on
a fabric through one of two methods:
1. Adhesive is applied to the surface of the fabric, which
may be in a design or pattern. The fibers are added with the
excess flocked fibers vacuumed off. The adhesive is cured
and the fabric brushed and cleaned.

2. Electrostatic flocking uses adhesive on the ground cloth,

which is then passed through a high-voltage field that
charges the fibers causing them to be attracted to the
adhesive.
   V  VV



V V
Additives, when added to a chemical finishing liquor,
bring about changes in physical or chemical properties
of the treated fabrics
Additives are also used to enhance the stability and
smooth running properties of the finishing liquors.
Wetting, dispersing and antifoam agents
These auxiliaries are usually added in small quantities
(I-5 g/l) to finishing liquors
Dispersing agents ensure stability and compatibility of
the various components of a chemical finishing bath for
prolonged periods (6-8 h)
Antifoam agents prevent foaming of the liquor in the
pad trough or at the nip formed by the padding rollers.
They act by modifying surface tension and many
different products are available, several of them
silicones.
×
 
Softeners are used to improve the handle and
smoothness of treated fabrics. Resilience (i.e. the ability
to resist and recover from stretching, deformation and
creasing) can also be improved. Softening agents are
classified according to their ionic properties.
Anionic agents are based on:
» "
# ×

Y
 

Y  
» "
# ÷ 

» " # 

Y

Y

  
Nonionic agents are based on:
» "
# 

 
  
» "
# $

 

» " # ×YY
 
  
Cationic agents are based on:
» "
# %



Y
 YY Y
Y
Y
» "
# ÷Y
 

Y 
Œ*(
  ë×  ×

Needle lubricants improve the sewing properties of

easycare cellulosic fabrics.
help to reduce losses in tear strength and abrasion
resistance.
In general three types of products are employed,
» (a) Primary and secondary dispersions of
polyethylene
» (b) Silicic acid ester dispersions
» (c) Silicone dispersions
x
!   V
They enable the handle of fabrics to be varied
from soft to firm according to demand.
Secondly they restore bulk and firmness to
fabrics that have become limp during
preparation and dyeing processes.
Thirdly they enable fabrics to be stiffened if
necessary to facilitate making-up procedures.
Finally a stiffening finish is required for end
uses such as interlinings, work wear, table
linen, bed linen, mattress covers, tapes and
ribbons.
x





Synthetic fabrics have low regain values. Nylon takes
up 5% moisture at equilibrium, polyester only 0.5%. To
improve comfort in wear, particularly for underwear in
contact with the skin, it is desirable to impart a
hydrophilic finish. Fatty acid adducts and modified
polyamide dispersions are widely used.
x

(



Makes the fabric less
hydrophilic or water
absorbing to protect
them against moisture
damage.
Can be durable or non-
durable.
Used for tarpaulins and
canvasses
Based on different
chemical sources




 (
(




%
(+, 
×
- 
á


%



 
& 

 ( 




 (
 


   %



  
 

 (


 

 

 × 
V V
Slippage of warp and weft yarns is a well known defect
of loosely woven filament fabrics arising from the
smoothness of synthetic yarns.
The problem can be overcome by reducing fibre
surface smoothness, thereby increasing interfibre
friction, by applying silicic acid esters, sometimes in
combination with polyacrylates.
The most popular blends are those of polyester with
cellulosic fibres, either cotton or viscose, combining the
excellent easy-care and hard-wearing properties of
polyester with the comfort and freedom from static or
soiling of cellulosic fibres.
 
 VV
Durable press is a generic term for a finishing process
in which chemical or physical stabilizations of a fabric
takes place after making-up in garment form.
By delaying the final finishing step until making-up is
completed, it is possible to stabilizes the shape of a
garment in its final saleable form.
In durable press finishing a distinction is normally
made between precure and postcure methods.
  




(



  


 ./0


(
&
)


#%











(

%
 
&)

  



  
#%
 (
 


 
 


 )
V 
In this method blend fabrics
are carefully impregnated
with crosslinking reactant,
catalyst and additives, but
reaction between cellulosic
fibres and crosslinking agent
is prevented by appropriate
selection of chemicals and
close attention to working
conditions.
The chemically sensitised
fabric is subsequently made
up into garments, the required
final shape of which is
obtained by prolonged curing
in an oven.
  

V V
Flame-retardant finishing of
cotton and blends, to impart
self-extinguishing behaviour
in normal wear and after
repeated launderings, creates
problems far more complex
than those encountered in any
other finishing process.
they function by decomposing
into chemical species that
alter the thermal degradation
reactions of the substrate,
decreasing the concentration
of combustible products and
increasing the amount of char
produced
u




 

 
 



 )
á  (
%
 



)
J 



 


(

 

×m1uá*xŒ"×

×
× 



 

×
 
    ×
×
 

× ×
×
× 
 
 ×