Nhan Vien Lam Mong Tay: An Toan Sc Khoe, ieu Kien Lam Viec, Lng Bong, va Nhan Khau

NAIL MANUFACTURERS COUNCIL OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

An Toan Sc Khoe, ieu Kien Lam Viec, Lng Bong, va Nhan Khau

Nhan Vien Lam Mong Tay:

Gii thieu
Tham my hien ang la mot nganh rat soi ong trong nen kinh te My. Doanh thu hang nam cua cac tham my vien at xap x $60 ty My kim, gap nam lan so vi doanh thu t cac rap chieu phim, va tuyen dung ti 1.6 trieu chuyen vien. Thc te cho thay so lng chuyen vien tham my hien nay con nhieu hn so lng giao vien hay luat s. Cac tham my vien lam mong tay chiem $6 ty My kim va tuyen dung ti 155,000 chuyen vien.
Nganh tham my tao ra kha nhieu c hoi, bao gom nhng c hoi cho ca nhieu ngi b han che ve von lieng, ngon ng va hoc van ma van co the treo len nac thang kinh te xa hoi va t lam chu. Do o a co nhieu dan nhap c t tm cho mnh con ng en vi tham my vien. ay la mot nganh i theo xu the gan gui vi gia nh do co ieu kien uyen chuyen ve thi gian, de dang sap xep cong viec va thi gian rieng. Nhieu ngi co the lam viec ban thi gian. Nhng ngi khac th lai lam viec nhieu hn mc toan thi gian e tang li nhuan.
So vi cac nganh dch vu khac va vi oi hoi mc hoc van va ky nang tng t, th nhan vien tham my, bao gom ca viec lam mong tay, eu c tra mc lng tng ng, hoac ngay ca con cao hn han so vi cac nganh dch vu khac va phan ln lng cua ho c tra bang tien mat. Rat nhieu nhan vien lam mong tay (70%) eu lam rieng va lam chu mot c s kinh doanh quy mo nho. Tren thc te, trong so danh sach 4,000 nganh c liet ke trong cac trang vang, th nganh tham my ng th 7.
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Hang thap ky nien troi qua, s xuat hien cua hang tram nghn nhan vien lam mong tay, cho thay ro rang rang nganh mong la mot moi trng an toan lao ong ang noi theo.

Tm Kiem Sac ep a Ngi My en Cac Trang Vang (Search for Beauty Takes Americans to Yellow Pages), Hiep Hoi Truyen Thong Tch Hp Trang Vang ( Yellow Pages Integrated Media Association), ngay 24 thang Hai, 2004.

Rat de khac phuc nhng rui ro cua nganh nay thong qua cong tac giao duc, pho bien cach hanh nghe an toan, va co mot he thong thong gio ay u.
Hiep Hoi Cac Nha San Xuat Mong Tay (NMC) la to chc e xuat quan trong cua nganh lam mong tay va ong thi cung la ngi bieu quyet cho ieu kien ve an toan va sc khoe lam viec cua nhan vien, ke ca van e giao duc, tiep ngoai, va thc thi hieu qua hn cac quy che va luat hien hanh t chnh quyen a phng va tieu bang.
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Thanh phan trong cac san pham lam mong Thanh phan c s dung trong cac san pham lam mong eu an toan trong ieu kien s dung thong thng va mc tiep xuc hp ly theo quy nh cua C Quan ieu Hanh An Toan Nghe Nghiep va Sc Khoe (Occupational Safety and Health Administration, hay OSHA) va C Quan Thc Dc Pham (Food and Drug Administration, hay FDA) Hoa Ky. Ba thanh phan c a ra thao luan nhieu nhat trong cac san pham lam mong la dibutyl-phthalate (DBP), toluene, va formaldehyde.
Nhng quan tam ve ba loai thanh phan nay xuat phat t nguy c tiep xuc qua mc thng thay trong moi trng ky nghe, hoa hoc so lng ln va nha may, v ham lng cua nhng thanh phan nay ni ay cao hn so vi tham my vien lam mong. Trong cac tham my vien lam mong, mc o tiep xuc vi nhng thanh phan nay la rat thap, do ch chiem ty le nho trong cong thc va c s dung vi so lng rat t, chung lai c ng trong cac chai nho co nap ay nho, c ong kn thng xuyen. Ch can mot chai la u e anh bong ti 36-60 bo mong.

Vi so lng khiem ton o, chang ngac nhien khi a hn ba mi nam thanh lap OSHA ma khong he co mot khieu nai g t pha OSHA, hoac t pha bat ky mot c quan co tham quyen nao trong so nam mi tieu bang ve viec NMC a vi pham tieu chuan OSHA ve mc o tiep xuc an toan oi vi ba chat thanh phan nay.
DBP, la chat tao mem c s dung e lam mem cac san pham anh bong mong, trong hai nam qua, a b cac thng hieu hang au ngng s dung, o ket qua cua Ban Sa oi Th Bay ve Hng Dan S Dung My Pham, c EU thong qua nam 2003, va c soan thao e cam s dung 1200 thanh phan, trong o co ca DBP. Ve c ban, e tao ra mot cong thc c s dung toan cau, cac nha san xuat mong phai loai

NMC, c sang lap cach ay gan hai thap ky, la mot phan cua Hiep Hoi Tham My

Chuyen Nghiep (Professional Beauty Association). Thanh vien NMC bao gom cac nha san xuat san pham cham soc mong chuyen nghiep hang au cho tham my vien.

bo DBP, mac du FDA a ket luan rang cha he co oi hoi g ve luat ieu hanh DBP va ngay ca uy ban chnh thc khoa hoc gia cua chnh phu EU, sau khi a thong qua Ban Sa oi Th Bay, cung a nhan nh rang DBP an toan trong khi c s dung trong nganh mong tay. Tiep xuc vi DBP, co khoang 5% chat anh bong mong, trong moi trng lam viec cua tham my vien nen gan nh khong the xac nh chung nh mot cach thc tien. Gan ay, vao thang Mi, 2006, Toluene, la mot dung moi c s dung trong san pham anh bong mong co tac dung lam cho cac san pham mt ma hn, c c quan quan ly an toan thanh phan tham my cua EU anh gia la an toan e s dung. Hn na, nghien cu trong nhieu nam ve lam mong California di s giam sat cua cac quan chc tieu bang cho thay ham lng toluene s dung trong tham my vien lam mong thap hn 1 ppm va thap hn nhieu so vi mc an toan 200 ppm ma OSHA lien bang quy nh. Mat khac, cac san pham anh bong mong khong co toluene ang ngay cang nhieu trong tham my vien nham ap ng nhu cau cua ngi muon tranh chat toluene.
Fomanehyt la mot thanh phan trong chat lam cng mong, mot san pham chuyen dung c tham my vien cham soc mong dung vi lng han che cho nhng van e ac biet lien quan ti mong. Fomanehyt khong c s dung e anh bong hoac tr mong, ma ch c dung lam cng mong. FDA cho phep co 5% chat nay trong chat lam cng mong. Trong thc te, ham lng chat nay trong cong thc san xuat rat t hn mot na lng tren. Sau nhieu nam nghien cu cac tiem lam mong tay, chnh quyen California ket luan rang: lng fomanehyt ay khong he cao hn lng fomanehyt ni lam viec khac, nh toa nha van phong- ni khong co bat c mot san pham lam mong nao. Ngoai ra, tham my vien cung luon co san cac chat lam cng mong khong co fomaehyt.
Ngoai ba thanh phan neu tren, mot thanh phan th t thng c nhac en la methyl methacrylate, hay MMA, mot n thc dang long. Khi ket hp vi bot polymer, MMA co the dung lam mong acrylic trong cac tham my vien. MMA a c s dung rong rai 3
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Xem http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-phth.html va Hubinger, J. va Harvey, D., Phan Tch ve Cac San Pham Tham My oi vi Phthalate Esters, J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 127-137 (2006).
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http://ecb.jrc.it/DOCUMENTS/Existing-Chemicals/RISK_ASSESSMENT/SUMMARY/dibutylphthalatesum003.pdf http://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/04_sccp/docs/sccp_o_076.pdf

T Van Moi Trng Clayton, anh Gia Ve Sinh Ky Nghe ve Ham lng Toluene va Formaldehyde tai Tham My Vien Mong va Dch Vu Tron Goi California, 16 thang Ba, 1999.

Nhieu chat anh bong va lam mong cha nha co ten dai giong fomaehyt (tosylamide/nha formaldehyde). Fomaehyt la mot chat kh. Nha la mot chat dnh khong bay hi. Trong qua trnh san xuat nha, fomaehyt c dung lam nguyen lieu tho, nhng khi san pham a chuyen thanh nha, th fomaehyt tieu mat va khong con na. 8

Xem lu y 6, supra.

t hn 40 nam trc. Thc ra, FDA a cam s dung MMA trong cac san pham lam mong trong nhng nam 1970 v chat nay rat kho lay ra, thng lam hong mong t nhien va gay d ng. Do s van ong trong nganh cham soc sac ep, hn 30 tieu bang cung a ban hanh lenh cam s dung MMA, va oi vi mot vai tieu bang th s dung chat nay b coi la pham phap. Trc tac ong cua FDA va cac tieu bang, chat MMA khong con c s dung trong tham my vien. Thay vao o, nhng ni nay chuyen sang mot chat an toan hn la etyl metacrylate (EMA)- cung la n thc dang long. Cac chat acrylic cha EMA co o ket dnh tot hn, ong thi de lay ra va khong hai mong t nhien. Tuy nhien, s dung EMA
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khong ung co the dan en b d ng. V

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vay, cac san pham EMA phai ghi canh giac tranh tiep xuc vi da. Cac chuyen vien mong tay c ch dan ve nhng nguy c nay cung nh cach phong tranh chung. hay CIR) cho thay cac chat monomer long cha EMA an toan cho chuyen vien s dung. Nghien Cu cua Nhom Chuyen Vien Thanh Phan My Pham (Cosmetic Ingredient Review,
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ieu quan trong la phai nhn nhan la khi s dung cac thanh phan nay trong tham my vien, tac hai nghiem trong nhat vi sc khoe nhan vien khong phai la ung th hay nhng anh hng ti sinh san, ma la do b kho chu ni da, d ng hoac kch thch ng ho hap.
Bien phap giam thieu: Giao duc, lam viec an toan va thong gio
Co the de dang giam nguy c tiem tang trong tham my vien lam mong bang cach giao duc nhan vien, ap dung cac bien phap lam viec an toan va thong gio. Cung nh cac c quan khac, gan ay, trong mot tap sach nho co tieu e Bao Ve Sc Khoe cua Nhan Vien Lam Mong Tay (Protecting the Health of Nail Salon Workers), C Quan Bao Ve Moi Trng (Environmental Protection Agency, hay EPA) Hoa Ky a ket luan: viec cham soc mong co the an toan neu s dung ung cac bc e bao ve [nhan vien].
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NMC, cac cong ty hoi vien cua NMC va nhng hiep hoi cong thng khac nh Hoi Chuyen Vien Lam Mong Quoc Te (International Nail Technicians Association, hay
INTA), cac c quan chnh phu va c quan khac eu khuyen khch, ung ho, va tao ieu kien giao duc va giao huan van e lien quan ti sc khoe va an toan cho nhan vien tham my vien. Cac nhan vien tham my vien co the lay thong tin ve sc khoe va an

MMA van con c s dung trong nhieu san pham khac ngoai nganh ky nghe cham soc mong. 10 11

Phan t MMA nho hn phan t EMA, v vay de tham qua da va co kha nang gay d ng

Xem v du, Ky thuat cham soc mong tieu chuan cua Milady, (Miladys Standard Nail nhieu hn. Technology) Tai ban lan th 5, Thompson/Delmar Learning 2007, Chng, ISBN 1 -4180-1651-2.

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Ban Trch Yeu Tom Tat CIR 2005, trang 99.

C Quan Bao Ve Moi Trng Hoa Ky (EPA), Bao Ve Sc Khoe Nhan Vien Tham My Vien Cham Soc Mong (thang 3, 2007), truy cap http://www.epa.gov/opptintr/dfe/pubs/projects/salon/nailsalonguide.pdf

toan qua cac nhan san pham, MSDS),

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t An Toan Chat Lieu (Material Safety Data Sheet, hay

hng dan bat buoc t trng tham my (gom cac sach giao khoa chuyen , cac ky thi cap chng ch tieu bang, qua chng trnh thng xuyen sau khi c

nganh)

cap phep, cac an pham chuyen nganh, tap ch thng mai va an pham cua chang phu lien bang va tieu bang. NMC, cung nh cac to chc khac, cung co mot mang li cung cap thong tin hu ch ve sc khoe, an toan va nhng van e khac. nhau nh tieng Anh, tieng Viet va nhng ngon ng khac.
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Ngoai ra,

con co cac lp hoc, an pham, tap ch va nhng thong tin khac t nhieu nguon khac

Ch bang vai quy tac thc hanh n gian, nh ng san pham va rac trong cac hop nho boc kn; ra tay thng xuyen; va luon mang quan ao bao ve, nhan vien lam mong co the bao ve da khoi b tiep xuc qua mc. Ngoai ra, ho co the bao ve khong kh ho hap bang nhng bien phap kha n gian, nh eo mat na chong bui va, quan trong hn, phai thong gio tot. Cac quy tac lam viec va quan ly ky thuat khuyen cao phai de oc tren mang li cua NMC cung nh t nhng nguon thong tin c e cap trc o.

Kinh te hoc
Nhng ngi hay phan nan thng trch d lieu cua Phong Thong Ke Lao ong Hoa Ky (Bureau of Labor Statistics, hay BLS) e minh hoa mc thu nhap ma ho cho la thap trong nganh tham my vien, nhng trong thc te, nhan vien tham my vien lam mong c tra lng kha tot so vi nhng nghe khac trong nganh dch vu, va vi nhng ngi co cung ky nang va trnh o hoc van.
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Theo so lieu cua BLS th thu nhap trung bnh hang nam cua tat ca nhng ngi lam trong nganh cham soc va dch vu ca nhan la $22,180 My kim.
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Mac du so lieu cua phong

Thong Ke cho thay thu nhap cua cac tham my vien, gom ca th lam mong, gan bang mc nay 14 15 16 , tuy nhien ngi ta thng cho rang mc thu nhap nay b tnh thieu.

Moi hieu tham my vien hang au eu ghi nhan vi thong tin thanh phan cac chat, cung hng dan va canh giac khi s dung. Luat lien bang quy nh nha san xuat phai dan bang MSDS cac tham my vien. Xem v du, Cau Truc Mong va Hoa Hoc San Pham (Nail Structure and Product Chemistry), Tai ban lan th hai, Douglas Schoon, Thomson/Delmar Learning, ISBN 1 -40186709-X; Ky Thuat Cham Soc Mong Tieu Chuan cua Milady, supra, Ghi chu 11. 17 Hau het an pham tren mang li cua NMC a co hoac se sm co ban tieng Anh, Viet, ai Han va Tay Ba Nha. Xem http://www.probeauty.org/about/committees/nmc/
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V du, an pham EPA (Ghi chu 13, supra) ang c dch sang tieng Viet va ai Han.

So sanh, v du thu nhap cua nhan vien nha hang, khach san, ni gi tre, ngi ho tr cham soc gia nh va ca nhan, ve sinh nha ca va ban le. Xem http://www.bls.gov/oes/current/oes_nat.htm

Id.

Theo Phong Thong Ke Lao ong Hoa Ky (BLS), thu nhap trung bnh hang nam cua nhan vien tham

my la $23,640 va th lam mong tay la $20,400. Xem http://www.bls.gov/oco/ocos169.htm; http://www.bls.gov/oes/current/oes395092.htm

May thay, co nhng so lieu chnh xac hn cho thay thu nhap cua tham my vien va th lam mong nay, trong thc te, cao hn nhieu. ieu quan trong la, phong Thong Ke a a th sa mong tay vao danh sach nhng nghe
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phat trien nhanh nhat.

Mot ban nghien cu chuyen sau dai 36 trang ve nganh tham my tien hanh tren toan quoc a c Lawrence Rudner- ai Hoc Maryland xuat ban nam 2003.
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Rudner giai thch

mot so kho khan trong khi nghien cu cac d lieu BLS va ghi nhan nhng kho khan trong qua trnh thu thap thong tin chnh xac ve tham my vien chang han nh ay la nganh hai ra tien mat co nhieu thu nhap khong c bao cao. Ngoai ra, Rudner cho rang BLS thu thap d lieu cua ho t tnh hnh chung cua tham my vien do IRS xac thc tnh t giay khai thue co the, ngoai nhieu viec khac, co ma phan loai nganh SIC khong chnh xac, co the khong thu c Phu Chng (Subchapter) S hay kinh doanh Ke Hoach (Schedule) C va co the khong chia tham my vien khac vi ca hang tap hoa.
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Theo d lieu tham do ay u, Rudner ket luan rang thu nhap trung bnh hang nam cua nhan vien trong tham my vien la khoang $48,700 cho chu tiem va khoang $36,300 cho nhan vien. Rudner bao cao rang bien oi trong nganh tham my rat cao, bnh quan thu nhap la t $40,640 cho chu tiem en $30,050 cho nhan vien.

Nhan khau Nganh lam mong la mot cong ong rat a dang. Khoang 41% la ngi Viet, 39% la da trang, 10% la My goc Phi Chau, 7% goc Tay Bo Nha (Hispanic), 2% ai Han va 1% la nhng nc khac.
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Ky nghe nay thu hut rat nhieu ngi Viet vao nganh lam mong trong suot mot so thap nien va qua. Nhieu ngi Viet Nam va nhng ngi en t cac quoc gia khac chon nghe tham my mong bi v: (1) thu nhap tot tng ng vi cac cong viec khac; (2) tien tra thng la tien mat; (3) mc o that bai thap ngay ca khi nen kinh te b suy yeu; (4) khong oi hoi cao ve von, hoc van hay trnh o ngon ng; (5) thi gian lam viec uyen chuyen va co kha nang nuoi c gia nh; (6) cong viec rat thu v, sang tao va mang tnh nghe thuat cao; (7) co nhieu c hoi tiep xuc vi khach hang; (8) co the lam viec vi ngi than va nhng ngi khac trong cung cong ong, cung ngon ng va cung nen van hoa (khac vi nhieu nganh dch vu khac)
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; va (9) ho co the tr thanh

Xem http://www.adin.org/lmi/usafast.htm 23 Tham Khao Rudner, Lawrence M., Yeu Cau Cong Viec Trong Nganh Tham My, 2003, Ngay 17 Thang Nam, 2003. 24 e biet them nhng li bnh luan cua thong ke BLS ve th lam mong tay, xem Postrel, Virginia, Cach Chung Ta Song, (The Way We Live) Thi Bao New York, oan 6, trang 16, Ngay 22 Thang Hai, 2004. 25 Tap Ch Mong, Mong nam 2006 -2007 Cuon Sach Ln, trang 36. 26 nhieu nganh dch vu khac, ngi di dan lam viec cho ngi ban x.

chu doanh nghiep nho va t lam viec cho mnh. ay la nhng ong lc rat manh me. Hau het moi ngi eu thay rat hanh phuc va an toan vi nghe nghiep mnh chon.

Ve nhan khau gii tnh, nhn chung chu yeu la phu n lam trong nganh lam mong. Tuy nhien, trong cong ong ngi Viet, co khoang 30% chuyen vien mong tay la nam gii. Trong o nhieu ngi lam viec cho chnh doanh nghiep cua ho.
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Khoang 70 phan tram chuyen vien mong tay co ca hang rieng di dang tham my vien hoac s hu mot doanh nghiep thue a iem, tc la, chuyen vien mong thue mot khoang trong trong tiem va t quan ly doanh nghiep oc lap cua rieng mnh trong tiem o.
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Nhieu chu tham my vien ngi Viet Nam la ngi

ng au cong ong, va mot so trong o t mnh hoat ong kinh doanh va tr thanh nha san xuat hay nha phan phoi san pham lam mong theo hnh thc ban s. Tren thc te, chnh cac nha cung cap san pham ngi Viet Nam a ap ng c nhu cau cua 83% tham my vien lam mong do ngi Viet lam chu.
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Theo bao cao ve so lng gi lam viec cua nhan vien lam mong (t tat ca cac sac toc), th mot tuan ho lam viec mc o trung bnh, v ieu quan trong la thi gian lam viec cua ho phai uyen chuyen. Theo o, 20% lam viec di 20 gi mot tuan; 29% lam viec t 21-35 gi; va 24% lam viec t 36-40 gi. oi vi nhng tuan lam viec hn 40 gi, th co 8% lam viec 41-45 gi va 19% cho biet ho lam viec hn 45 gi.
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oi vi nhng ngi muon lam viec theo mc o thi

gian dai nh the th, do ho, giong nh nhng chu doanh nghiep nho khac, co gang muon them li nhuan, muon kha them ve tai chanh, do ho la ngi Viet Nam hoac la ngi thuoc the he di dan au tien, va cung co the la ho do khong quen lam viec theo mc o mot tuan sau ngay ben quoc gia ho. Ho lam viec theo y rieng e at giac m My en cho ca gia nh va cho chnh ho.

Nhn ve tng lai

Giong nh hau het cac nganh nghe kinh doanh khac, tham my vien theo phap luat cua tieu bang va a phng ieu quan. S ho tr khong ngng cua NMC luon tap trung vao van e ve sc khoe va an toan trong cac lp giang day tham my, ap ng yeu cau khong ngng ve ao tao va trong cac ky thi cap bang cua tieu bang. NMC cung la to chc keu goi thng xuyen kiem tra va thc thi cac quy che cung nh bo luat hien hanh, tang nang phat va, tang cng quyen thi hanh luat va cap phep. Ni vong tay 27
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Nghien Cu au Tien ve Nganh Tham My Mong Viet Nam, (First Study of Vietnamese Nail Salon Industry) Tap Ch Mong trang. 78 (Thang Ba Nam 2007).
Mong Cuon Sach Ln, supra, Ghi chu 25, trang 37. Nghien Cu au Tien, supra Ghi chu 27, trang 86.

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Tap Ch Chuyen Nganh Mong, Cuon Sach Vang Nam 2006, trang 18.

en cong ong ngi Viet Nam va cac cong ong di dan khac, chiem hn 50% nganh lam mong, la vai tro quan trong cho s ton tai cua nganh nay. Rat nhieu cong ty thanh vien NMC mi cac chuyen vien lam mong tay ngi Viet Nam en e huan luyen va ao tao cac tham my vien Viet Nam cung nh giup thau dung oi ngu nhan vien tra li ien thoai goi vao mien ph.
Ro rang la van con nhieu ieu can va phai lam them, tuy nhien NMC ngh rang nganh lam mong cung co nhieu ieu ang e t hao, trong o bao gom ca yeu to an toan lao ong dai han cho cac nhan vien ma nganh a at c.