Portugal Fashion by Dieve Studios

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Intro:

36 shows throughout 5 days. Under the theme Timeline, the 31st Portugal Fashion was held in Lisbon and Porto (first day in Lisbon then the next in Porto). Between portuguese fashion references, young designers and fashion schools, we only got to see the days that were held in Porto. This is our article reflecting on them.

First Day :

The expectations were high. The Storytailors show, scheduled for 9 pm, started fashionably late at 9:30. So far, so good. The room was settled and the music started to play. The first model, Milene Cardoso, had and exquisite walk in a not-so-exquisite dress. The show ended. Total disaster. Black all around, only a few dresses could be saved, but the collection was barely living. Good thing that it was the only truly bad show of the day. Anabela Baldaque and Luis Buchinho both showed us very bright collections, with a mix between structured and fluid dresses, all in bright colors.

Second Day:

Torcato started this day and the show was good. Inspired by the classical elegance of London, it showed us the best of the best craftsmanship with an edgy urban-lifestyle trend. But the highlight of the day was Katy Xiomara. Feminine and colorful, the show was to die for, unlike many collections we saw. Miguel Vieira closed the say by showing us a few male designs and a splash of color.

Third Day:

Genius, pure genius ! Alves/Gonalves starting what we would expect to be one of the best days of this event. Straight silhouettes with complex details, cuts and openings, the structure and motion of the pieces was given a whole new projection. Diogo Miranda followed suit and

so did Filipe Oliveira Batista, the young artistic director of Lacoste who presented us with a very urban-chic collection with rather male proportions. Spontaneity, intensity and energy were the key-words. But, in every flock there must be a black-sheep, and this issue it was TM Collection by Teresa Martins. The show was late, not fashionably anymore (almost 2 hours to be precise) and delivered a collection almost alike the one delivered in March. But it wasnt all bad. The day ended with the GANT designer, Michael Bastian, proposing a youthful male-only collection.

Fourth Day:

3 pm, it was scheduled to start. It did. Amazing show. Industry, the show where Concreto by Helder Batista and Mad Dragon Seeker by Alexandrine Cadilhe & Daniel Simes presented their collections, was bright and with intense colors. Next on the line, Shoes, one of Portugals growing industries. Lightweight and comfortable shoes were they main proposal for next season. The details varied from traditional to modern, as did the colors. Carlos Gil starts late. Later than usual, but were greeted with a collection that highlighted the elegance and ostentation of Paris and Bangkok. All hand-made work, with and exquisite amount of details, honestly, worthy of Chanel. VICRI was next and showed us a light collection, inspired by the nostalgia of the summer holidays. Overalls were brought back to life this season. Meam by Ricardo Preto followed, and showed us what we were expecting , a feminine collection, with the outmost regard for motion, youth and comfort. With the day almost ending, it was time for Lion of Porshes, who showed us 4 different lines of clothing with a college and heraldic inspiration. Next up was Luis Onofre, often regarded as the portuguese Christian Louboutin. The collection was truly beautiful and worthy of a princess. High heels, in an amazing color palette varying from electric blue to golden yellow. Amazing. Dielmar presented a contemporary collection with a youthful touch and almost sporty feel. But the honor of closing this event was given, once again, to Fatima Lopes, probably the best known portuguese designer, certainly the most international, presenting its collections in Paris, season after season. But every event must go with a bang, and this one was no exception. Lopes collection was sort of an hidden-flop. The show wasnt bad, yet, it wasnt good either. The shoes were simply awful. With her another edition of this event was finished. An edition which floated between pure-genius, and straight-up insane.

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