Professional Documents
Culture Documents
TESTING MANUAL
Page
Contacts……………………………………………………………………………..………….… 5
Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………….. 7
Sample Requirements...…………………………………………………………………………. 8
U. S. Government Regulations…………………………………………………………………. 9
Testing Procedures………………………………………………………………….……………. 10
Revision 1: January 3, 2006 Karen McGuire Pages 20 and 22: shrinkage requirement
for Pique changed to 7% X 5%.
Revision 2: January 31, 2006 Karen McGuire Page 8: In SGS Responsibility, The email
address for Anchor Blue’s Contact
person was corrected.
On all standards: The test method for sequins
and appliqués has been corrected to 16 CFR
1500.52.
Fabric Strength test method on all Knit
Standards has been changed to ASTM D 3786.
Page 38-39: test methods and requirements were
added to cover woven lining in a knit garment.
Page 44: shrinkage requirement for Pique
changed to 7% X 5%.
Revision 3: March 29, 2006 Karen McGuire Page 4: Added Janet Hughes to Anchor Blue
contact information.
Page 6: Under fabric requirements: changed
from one yard of fabric to two yards of one
color and one yard of each addition color.
Under garment requirements we have added:
Colorfastness testing to be conducted on one
color only.
Page 8: Under SGS responsibilities, added
Janet Hughes’ information for receipt of all
test reports via email.
Revision 4: May 18, 2006 Karen McGuire Page 6: Added Kim Richardson to SGS
Contact list.
Page 8: Under Fabric Sample Requirements
Added “For styles that will be colorblocked
Or have contrasting trim, each combo will be
sewn together including it’s contrasting trim.
Page 9: Added to vendor responsibilities
“Failed samples will be returned to Anchor
Blue at the vendors expense.
Added to SGS responsibilities “Failed reports
and sample(s) are to be returned at once.”
“Passing reports and sample(s) will be returned
twice a month.”
ANCHOR BLUE
SGS USTC
Account Coordinator
Ms. Nicole Effenberger
291 Fairfield Avenue
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Telephone: 973-575-5252
Fax: 973-575-8271
Email: nicole.effenberger@sgs.com
SGS USTC
US Key Account Manager:
Kimberly Richardson
8385 White Oak Avenue
Rancho Cucamonga
CA 91730
Telephone: 909-483-0250
Cell: 714-815-3955
Email: kim.richardson@sgs.com
US Technical Support
Ms Karen McGuire
291 Fairfield Avenue
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Telephone: 973-575-5252
Cell: 860-466-9495
Fax: 973-575-8271
Email: karen.mcguire@sgs.com
Performance testing serves to assure product durability, safety, and compliance with government regulations,
consumer satisfaction and reduced customer returns.
These Standard Operating Procedures and Performance Standards have been developed by SGS as a
combined result of testing experience, participation in national standards organizations, and input from
ANCHOR BLUE and industry leaders around the world.
The Performance Standards are listed by major merchandise category, and define specific performance
parameters. These standards are further detailed according to woven or knit construction, by fiber, by type of
color application, and by finishing technique. Each factor will influence performance requirements and
tolerances.
ANCHOR BLUE requires that all merchandise meet or exceed the outlined performance requirements and
meet guideline care instructions. Tests will be conducted at SGS laboratories, and a SGS laboratory report
with a favorable rating must be attained prior to production and shipping of merchandise.
All reports will be reviewed and evaluated by ANCHOR BLUE’S Quality Assurance Division.
This manual applies to ANCHOR BLUE and all its subsidiaries and divisions and is not to be reproduced, in
part or in whole, without written permission from ANCHOR BLUE and SGS.
In addition, all merchandise sold to ANCHOR BLUE, must meet the provisions of all U.S. Federal, State and Local
Regulations. These include, but are not limited to:
FTC Trade Regulation Rule for Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel
FTC Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
FTC Rules and Regulations under the Wool Products Labeling Act
FTC Rules and Regulations under the Fur Products Labeling Act
Suppliers must provide a continuing guarantee of compliance or test results assuring that requirements of all U.S.
Federal, State and Local Regulations are met.
Vendor Responsibility
Timely sample submission to the local SGS Laboratory, with a copy of the completed SGS Test Request
Form.
All Performance Standards must be met before care labels are ordered. If care labels are ordered prior to
obtaining passing test results are received and new care labels are required, vendor will be responsible to
order new labels at his own expense.
Only test reports from SGS will be accepted.
Failed samples will be returned to Anchor Blue at the vendor’s expense.
Payment to laboratory for all testing.
VENDOR: EMAIL:
ADDRESS:
PHONE: FAX:
REPORTS TO:
COLOR: SUPPLIER #:
STYLE #: PO# / REF#:
MFG: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:
FIBER CONTENT: WEIGHT:
FABRIC: CONSTRUCTION:
COUNT:
VENDOR PROPOSED CARE INSTRUCTION: (Must be filled in below in order for testing to start)
Fabric Package
Garment Package
Additional Colors
SUPPLIER SIGNATURE:
DATE:
NOTE: Applicant is hereby authorizing SGS to provide a copy of the lab test results to ANCHOR BLUE
SGS U.S. Testing Company Inc. / 291 Fairfield Avenue / Fairfield, NJ 07004
(800) 777-TEST (8378) / www.sgs.com
OVERALL RATING
PASS
FAIL
ANCHOR BLUE
VENDOR NAME :
SAMPLE
DESCRIPTION :
END USE:
CONTACT:
COLOR :
FABRIC/GARMENT ORDER:
STYLE :
ANCHOR BLUE COUNTRY OF ORIGIN :
CONTACT :
FIBRE CONTENT : WEIGHT :
SAMPLE RECEIVING TEST PERFORMING DATE :
DATE :
RETEST PREVIOUS REPORT NO.
Applicant’s Submitted SGS Recommended
Care Instruction: Care Instruction :
CONCLUSION:
Test Results:
REQUIREMENT
(A) (B)
rd
DIMENSIONAL CHANGES AFTER 3 WASHING
(AATCC 135-2001 Test No. (1)IIIA(ii); Machine wash at 105 degree F with 4lb dummy loading, normal
cycle, tumble dry delicate & warm iron)
WARP/LENGTH (%)
WEFT/WIDTH (%)
rd
APPEARANCE AFTER 3 WASHING
(AATCC 135-2001 Test No. (1)IIIA(ii); Machine wash at 105 degree F with 4lb dummy loading, normal
cycle, tumble dry delicate & warm iron)
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING ON ACETATE
STAINING ON COTTON
STAINING ON NYLON
STAINING ON POLYESTER
STAINING ON ACRYLIC
STAINING ON WOOL
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING ON ACETATE
STAINING ON COTTON
STAINING ON NYLON
STAINING ON POLYESTER
STAINING ON ACRYLIC
STAINING ON WOOL
DRY
WET
COLOUR FASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH
(AATCC TS – 001)
COLOUR CHANGE
COLOUR CHANGE
COLOUR CHANGE
(After 20 Fading Unit)
TENSILE STRENGTH
(ASTM D5034-1995(2001); CRE – 1” grab)
WARP (LB)
WEFT (LB)
TEARING STRENGTH
(ASTM D1424-1996-Elmendorf)
(oz/sq.yd.)
(g/sq.m.)
FIBRE CONTENT
(AATCC 20-2002)
FLAMMABILITY
The apparatus and methods of testing were those described in 16 CFR Part 1610 Standard for the
Flammability of Clothing Textiles (CS-191-53)
Fabric Surface :
Preliminary Testing : Length Width
(1) (1)
(2) (2)
Sample (3) (3)
(4) (4)
(A) (5) (5)
(6) (6)
(7) (7)
(8) (8)
(9) (9)
(10) (10)
Standard 13 Sweaters 58
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
Jersey, Interlock 5 X 5
Pique 7 X 5
Ribs, Spandex 7 X 7
Thermal 8 X 7
SKEWING 5% AATCC 179
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Activewear Step 4 40 hours
Daywear/Sportswear Step 4 20 hours
DURABILITY VISUAL
Garments must not exhibit a noticeable change in
appearance or fit after reasonable wear and cleaning.
No fraying or raveling of buttonholes, trims or seams
No deterioration or delamination of fusible interfacing or
appliqués
No objectionable pilling, snagging, change in hand or frosting
of fabric
No deterioration of elastic
No bleeding or fraying of drawstring
No chipping, discoloration, rusting or pitting of snaps or
hardware
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
Jersey, Interlock 5 X 5
Pique 7 X 5
Ribs, Spandex 5 X 7
Thermal 7 X 7
Fleece, French Terry, Velour 6 X 5
SKEWING 5% AATCC 179
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Activewear Step 4 40 Hours
Daywear/Sportswear Step 4 20 Hours
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
100% Cotton 4 X 4
Synthetic Blends 3 X 3
GARMENT APPEARANCE
Testing Required Only For Wrinkle Free or Durable Press Finishes
Fabric Smoothness AATCC 124
Cotton – Resin Treated Grade 3.5
Synthetics and Blends Grade 4
Seam Smoothness Grade 3 AATCC 88B
Crease Retention AATCC 143
Cotton – Resin Treated Grade 3
Synthetics and Blends Grade 4
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
(RN#)
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments Ends must be finished
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
100% Cotton 4 X 4
Synthetic Blends 3 X 3
GARMENT APPEARANCE
Testing Required Only For Wrinkle Free or Durable Press Finishes
Fabric Smoothness AATCC 124
Cotton – Resin Treated Grade 3, 5
Synthetics and Blends Grade 4
Seam Smoothness Grade 3 AATCC 88B
Crease Retention
Cotton – Resin Treated Grade 3
Synthetics and Blends Grade 4
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments Ends must be finished
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC – 135, 150, 158
Machine / Hand Laundering 5 X 5
Dry Clean 2 X 2
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering or Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132, 158
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Activewear Step 4 40 Hours
Daywear/Sportswear Step 4 20 Hours
Silk Step 4 10 Hours
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150, 158
Machine Laundering 4 X 4
Dry Clean 2 X 2
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering or Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132, 158
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 3
Wet Grade 2
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Daywear/Sportswear Step 4 20 Hours
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
(RN#)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
100% Cotton, Un-laundered 5 X 5
100% Cotton, Laundered 3 X 3
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 3
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 3
Wet Grade 2
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Activewear Step 4 40 Hours
Daywear/Sportswear Step 4 20 Hours
Ozone – Bleached Indigo Only Grade 3 – 1 Cycle AATCC 129
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 158
2 X 2
COLORFASTNESS
Dry Cleaning AATCC 132, 158
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Crocking AATCC 8
Shell
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
Lining
Dry Grade 5 Grade 4*
Wet Grade 4 Grade 3*
*Exception: pigment, indigo9 sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Lining
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 4
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Step 4 20 Hours
Ozone – Bleached Indigo Only Grade 3 – 1 Cycle AATCC 129
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Wool Product Label # (WPL#) FTC – Wool Labeling Act
GENERAL FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
No flaws, holes or runs
No barre
No missed or dropped stitches
No exposed yarn ends or knots on face of fabric
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150, 158
Machine Laundering 5 X 5
Dry Clean 2 X 2
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering or Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Shell
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
Lining
Dry Grade 5 Grade 4*
Wet Grade 4 Grade 3*
*Exception: pigment, indigo9 sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Fabric Strength (Knit) ASTM D3786
Shell/Lining 45 psi
Fabric Strength (Woven) ASTM D5034
Lining 25 lb.
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Seam Strength (Knit) ASTM D3787
Shell/Lining 45 lb.
Seam Strength (Woven) ASTM D1683
Lining 25 lb.
Button/Snap Strength –
Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Zipper Strength – Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Sequin & Appliqué Strength – 15 lb (for 10 seconds) 16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
FORMALDEHYDE
Adults 150ppm AATCC 112
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Wool Product Label # (WPL#) FTC – Wool Labeling Act
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150, 158
Machine Laundering 5 X 5
Dry Clean 2 X 2
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering or Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132, 158
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Shell
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
Lining
Dry Grade 5 Grade 4*
Wet Grade 4 Grade 3*
*Exception: pigment, indigo9 sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Lining
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Step 4 20 Hours
DRAWSTRINGS
Adult Garments Ends must be finished
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
Jersey, Interlock 5 X 5
Pique 7 X 5
Ribs, Spandex 5 X 7
Thermal 7 X 7
Fleece, French Terry, Velour 6 X 5
SKEWING 5% AATCC 179
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Step 4 10 Hours
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Wool Product Label # (WPL#) FTC – Wool Labeling Act
FLAMMABILITY
All Fabrics Class 1 Normal Title16 CFR 1610 or ASTM D1230
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
Cotton – Non-raised Surface 4 X 4
Cotton – Raised Surface 5 X 5
Synthetic Blends 3 X 3
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Step 4 10 Hours
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Wool Product Label # (WPL#) FTC – Wool Labeling Act
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC – 150, 158
Machine / Hand Laundering 5 X 5
Dry Clean 3 X 3
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering or Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132, 158
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, over dye, brushed or napped
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Active wear Step 4 40 Hours
Daywear/Sportswear Step 4 20 Hours
DURABILITY VISUAL
Garments must not exhibit a noticeable change in
appearance or fit after reasonable wear and cleaning.
No fraying or raveling of buttonholes, trims or seams
No deterioration or delamination of fusible interfacing or
appliqués
No objectionable pilling, snagging, change in hand or frosting
of fabric
No deterioration of elastic
No bleeding or fraying of drawstring
No chipping, discoloration, rusting or pitting of snaps or
hardware
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
Ribs, Spandex 5 X 7
Other 7 X 5
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Pool Water AATCC 162
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
Sea Water AATCC 106
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
Perspiration
Shade Change Grade 4 AATCC 15
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Bursting Strength 45 psi ASTM D 3786
Seam Strength 35 lb. ASTM D 3787
Snap Strength – Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Zipper Strength – Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Sequin & Appliqué Strength – 15 lb (for 10 seconds) 16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
FORMALDEHYDE AATCC 112
Adults 150ppm
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Wool Product Label # (WPL#) FTC – Wool Labeling Act
GENERAL FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
No flaws, holes or runs
No barre
No missed or dropped stitches
No exposed yarn ends or knots on face of fabric
GENERAL GARMENT REQUIREMENTS
All components must be compatible with no differential
shrinkage
No noticeable puckering or twisting of fabric or seams
No skewing over 5%
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage % Length % Width AATCC - 135, 150
100% Cotton 4 X 4
Synthetic Blends 3 X 3
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 AATCC TS-001
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye, brushed or napped
Pool Water AATCC 162
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
Sea Water AATCC 106
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
Perspiration AATCC 15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self-Staining Grade 5
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Tensile Strength 25 lb. ASTM D5034
Seam Strength 35 lb. ASTM D1683
Snap Strength – Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Zipper Strength – Tension Test 15 lb. 16 CFR 1500.52
Sequin & Appliqué Strength – 15 lb (for 10 seconds) 16 CFR 1500.52
Tension Test
FORMALDEHYDE AATCC 112
Adults 150ppm
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Wool Product Label # (WPL#) FTC – Wool Labeling Act
GENERAL FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
No flaws, holes or runs
No barre
No missed or dropped stitches
No exposed yarn ends or knots on face of fabric
GENERAL GARMENT REQUIREMENTS
All components must be compatible with no differential
shrinkage
No noticeable puckering or twisting of fabric or seams
Garment must be cut on straight grain
GARMENT DURABILITY VISUAL
Garments must not exhibit a noticeable change in
appearance or fit after reasonable wear and cleaning.
No fraying or raveling of buttonholes, trims or seams
No deterioration or delamination of fusible interfacing or
appliqués
No objectionable pilling, snagging, change in hand or frosting
of fabric
No deterioration of elastic
No bleeding or fraying of drawstring
No chipping, discoloration, rusting or pitting of snaps or
hardware
Note:
Additional / Failed tests will be retested at 30% discount applied from regional lab price list. India: Full regional prices
TESTING MANUAL
May 8, 2006
HOME TEXTILES
BELTS
HANDBAGS
STUFFED PILLOWS
BED CANOPY
RUGS
BLANKETS/THROWS
Page
Contacts……………………………………………………………………………..………….… 5
Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………….. 7
Sample Requirements...…………………………………………………………………………. 8
U. S. Government Regulations…………………………………………………………………. 9
Testing Procedures………………………………………………………………….……………. 10
ANCHOR BLUE
SGS USTC
Account Coordinator
Ms. Nicole Effenberger
291 Fairfield Avenue
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Telephone: 973-575-5252
Fax: 973-575-8271
Email: nicole.effenberger@sgs.com
SGS USTC
US Key Account Manager:
Kimberly Richardson
8385 White Oak Avenue
Rancho Cucamonga
CA 91730
Telephone: 909-483-0250
Cell: 714-815-3955
Email: kim.richardson@sgs.com
US Technical Support
Ms Karen McGuire
291 Fairfield Avenue
Fairfield, NJ 07004
Telephone: 973-575-5252
Cell: 860-466-9495
Fax: 973-575-8271
Email: karen.mcguire@sgs.com
Performance testing serves to assure product durability, safety, and compliance with government regulations,
consumer satisfaction and reduced customer returns.
These Standard Operating Procedures and Performance Standards have been developed by SGS as a
combined result of testing experience, participation in national standards organizations, and input from
ANCHOR BLUE and industry leaders around the world.
The Performance Standards are listed by major merchandise category, and define specific performance
parameters. These standards are further detailed according to woven or knit construction, by fiber, by type of
color application, and by finishing technique. Each factor will influence performance requirements and
tolerances.
ANCHOR BLUE requires that all merchandise meet or exceed the outlined performance requirements and
meet guideline care instructions. Tests will be conducted at SGS laboratories, and a SGS laboratory report
with a favorable rating must be attained prior to production and shipping of merchandise.
All reports will be reviewed and evaluated by ANCHOR BLUE’S Quality Assurance Division.
This manual applies to ANCHOR BLUE and all its subsidiaries and divisions and is not to be reproduced, in
part or in whole, without written permission from ANCHOR BLUE and SGS.
In addition, all merchandise sold to ANCHOR BLUE, must meet the provisions of all U.S. Federal, State and Local
Regulations. These include, but are not limited to:
FTC Trade Regulation Rule for Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel
FTC Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
FTC Rules and Regulations under the Wool Products Labeling Act
FTC Rules and Regulations under the Fur Products Labeling Act
Suppliers must provide a continuing guarantee of compliance or test results assuring that requirements of all U.S.
Federal, State and Local Regulations are met.
Vendor Responsibility
Timely sample submission to the local SGS Laboratory, with a copy of the completed SGS Test Request
Form.
All Performance Standards must be met before care labels are ordered. If care labels are ordered prior to
obtaining passing test results are received and new care labels are required, vendor will be responsible to
order new labels at his own expense.
Only test reports from SGS will be accepted.
Failed samples will be returned to Anchor Blue at the vendor’s expense.
Payment to laboratory for all testing.
Fiber Content X X X X
Dimensional Stability in Laundering or Dry Cleaning X X Spot Clean X
(If Applicable)
Appearance after Laundering or Dry cleaning or Spot X X
Clean
Colorfastness to Laundering or DC or Spot Clean X X X
Colorfastness to Rug Spot Cleaning X
Colorfastness to Crocking X X X X
Before and
after wash or
DC
Colorfastness to Light X X X X
Colorfastness To Perspiration X
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach X X X
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach X X X
Colorfastness to Rug Back Staining X
Fabric Weight X X X
Seam Strength X
Pull Test (Decorative Attachments or Beads, Buttons, etc.) X X X
Flammability X Large Rug Blanket
Only Flammabilit
y
Yarn Size X X X
Thread Count X X
Tensile Strength (Woven Only) X X X
VENDOR: EMAIL:
ADDRESS:
PHONE: FAX:
REPORTS TO:
COLOR: SUPPLIER #:
STYLE #: PO# / REF#:
MFG: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:
FIBER CONTENT: WEIGHT:
FABRIC: CONSTRUCTION:
COUNT:
VENDOR PROPOSED CARE INSTRUCTION: (Must be filled in below in order for testing to start)
SUPPLIER SIGNATURE:
DATE:
NOTE: Applicant is hereby authorizing SGS to provide a copy of the lab test results to ANCHOR BLUE
SGS U.S. Testing Company Inc. / 291 Fairfield Avenue / Fairfield, NJ 07004
(800) 777-TEST (8378) / www.sgs.com
OVERALL RATING
PASS
FAIL
ANCHOR BLUE
VENDOR NAME :
SAMPLE
DESCRIPTION :
END USE:
CONTACT:
COLOR :
FABRIC/GARMENT ORDER:
STYLE :
ANCHOR BLUE COUNTRY OF ORIGIN :
CONTACT :
FIBRE CONTENT : WEIGHT :
SAMPLE RECEIVING TEST PERFORMING DATE :
DATE :
RETEST PREVIOUS REPORT NO.
Applicant’s Submitted SGS Recommended
Care Instruction: Care Instruction :
CONCLUSION:
Test Results:
REQUIREMENT
(A) (B)
rd
DIMENSIONAL CHANGES AFTER 3 WASHING
(AATCC 135-2001 Test No. (1)IIIA(ii); Machine wash at 105 degree F with 4lb dummy loading, normal
cycle, tumble dry delicate & warm iron)
WARP/LENGTH (%)
WEFT/WIDTH (%)
rd
APPEARANCE AFTER 3 WASHING
(AATCC 135-2001 Test No. (1)IIIA(ii); Machine wash at 105 degree F with 4lb dummy loading, normal
cycle, tumble dry delicate & warm iron)
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING ON ACETATE
STAINING ON COTTON
STAINING ON NYLON
STAINING ON POLYESTER
STAINING ON ACRYLIC
STAINING ON WOOL
COLOUR CHANGE
STAINING ON ACETATE
STAINING ON COTTON
STAINING ON NYLON
STAINING ON POLYESTER
STAINING ON ACRYLIC
STAINING ON WOOL
DRY
WET
COLOUR FASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH
(AATCC TS – 001)
COLOUR CHANGE
COLOUR CHANGE
COLOUR CHANGE
(After 20 Fading Unit)
TENSILE STRENGTH
(ASTM D5034-1995(2001); CRE – 1” grab)
WARP (LB)
WEFT (LB)
TEARING STRENGTH
(ASTM D1424-1996-Elmendorf)
(oz/sq.yd.)
(g/sq.m.)
FIBRE CONTENT
(AATCC 20-2002)
FLAMMABILITY
The apparatus and methods of testing were those described in 16 CFR Part 1610 Standard for the
Flammability of Clothing Textiles (CS-191-53)
Fabric Surface :
Preliminary Testing : Length Width
(1) (1)
(2) (2)
Sample (3) (3)
(4) (4)
(A) (5) (5)
(6) (6)
(7) (7)
(8) (8)
(9) (9)
(10) (10)
Standard 2 Handbags 25
Standard 5 Rugs 32
Standard 6 Blankets 34
FABRIC QUALITIES
Fabric Weight +/- 5% ASTM D3776
Thread Count +/- 5% ASTM D3775
Yarn Size +/- 5% ASTM D1059
Thickness +/- 5%
Fiber Content 100%: No tolerance AATCC 20 / 20A
Blends: +/-3%
COLOR FASTNESS
Crocking AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4
Wet Grade 3
Light – 20 Fading Units Grade 4 AATCC 16
Water AATCC 107
Color Change Grade 4.0
Staining Grade 3.0
Self Staining Grade 5.0
Atmosphere Fumes Grade 4.0 AATCC 23
STRENGTH
Tensile Strength 50 lbs ASTM D5034
Bonding Strength 10 lbs ASTM D1424
Hole Pullout Strength 25 lbs In-house Method
Resistance to Corrosion – metal No visual change or In-House Method
corrosion after 24 hours
soaking in saline solution
Lead in Surface Coating 0.06% by weight CPSA 16 CFR 1303
Fiber Content
Single Fiber No Tolerance FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
Blends 3% Tolerance FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
FLAMMABILITY Class 1 Title 16 CFR 1610
COLORFASTNESS
Crocking AATCC 8
Leather/Denim Vinyl Fabric Lining
Dry Grade 3 4 4 4
Wet Grade 2 3 3 3
Water Spotting Grade 4 AATCC 104
Water AATCC 107
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 4
Light, 20 Hours Step 4 AATCC 16E
No discoloration or change in Scotch Tape Test
Finish Adhesion – Leather Only appearance or finish SGS Method
SOIL RELEASE Grade 4 AATCC 130
(Soil Release Treated Fabrics Only)
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Tensile ASTM D5034
Shell 40 lb.
Lining 20 lb.
Tear Strength ASTM D1424
Shell 3 lb.
Lining 2 lb.
SEAM PROPERTIES
Seam Strength 20 lb. ASTM D5034
Lining Seams – Woven Fabric 15 lb.
Lining seams – Vinyl 10 lb.
Handle / Strap Strength 25 lb.
Zipper Tape Attachment Strength 25 lb.
LABELING
Fiber Content FTC – Textiles Fiber Products ID Act
Type of Leather FTC – Guidelines for Leather
Country of Origin FTC – Textiles Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions As per Anchor Blue specifications FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
(RN#)
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering/Dry Clean AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132
Color Change Grade 4 Grade 3*
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Static Wetting* AATCC 107
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Crocking* AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3.5 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye
*Test not required for white or natural color fabrics.
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Step 4 20 Hours
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
State Bedding Registration # (Filled Products Only) Individual State Regulation
Manufacturer Registration # (Federal RN#) when mfr is FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
importer of record
Anchor Blue name and address
All Pillows should have a permanently sewn in label, this label should be affixed to the
Top panel or a visible location, a minimum size of 2” X 3”, printed, on only one side of
Label, in black ink and in English. The label must include the following information:
DO NOT REMOVE
Description of Filling Material
State Registration Number
Certification Statement
Name and Address of Anchor Blue
Finished Size
Federal RN # of mfr when importer
Country of Origin
CONSTRUCTION/FINISHING VISUAL
SEAM ALLOWANCE/TYPE Must be appropriate for end use
As indicated on purchase order
All seams must be uniform and clean finished
CONSTRUCTION Topstitching must be uniform & consistent
No loose or broken stitches
No needle cutting
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering/Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61, 132
Color Change Grade 4 Grade 3*
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Static Wetting* AATCC 107
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Crocking* AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4 Grade 3*
Wet Grade 3 Grade 2*
*Exception: pigment, indigo sulfur
black, overdye
*Test not required for white or natural color fabrics
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Step 4 40 Hours
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # (Federal RN#) when mfr is FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
importer of record FTC – Wool Labeling Act
Anchor Blue name and address
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
No flaws, holes or runs
No barre
No missed or dropped stitches
No exposed yarn ends or knots on face of fabric
All components must be compatible with no differential
shrinkage
No noticeable puckering or twisting of fabric or seams
Item must be cut on straight grain
DURABILITY VISUAL
Items must not exhibit a noticeable change in
appearance or fit after reasonable use and cleaning.
No fraying or raveling of hems, edges or trims.
No objectionable pilling, snagging, change in hand or frosting of
fabric
CONSTRUCTION/FINISHING VISUAL
SEAM ALLOWANCE/TYPE Must be appropriate for end use.
As indicated on purchase order
All seams must be uniform and clean finished
Topstitching must be uniform & consistent
No loose or broken stitches
No needle cutting
COLORFASTNESS
Cleaning Professional Rug Clean or Spot
Clean
Color Change Grade 4 Grade 3*
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Rug Back Staining Grade 4.5 AATCC 137
Static Wetting* AATCC 107
Color Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
Self Staining Grade 5
Chlorine Bleach Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4.5 AATCC TS-001
Crocking* AATCC 8
Dry Grade 4
Wet Grade 3
*Test not required for white or natural color fabrics
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Step 4 20 Hours
Labeling
Fiber Content FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Country of Origin FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Care Instructions FTC – Care Labeling Rule
Manufacturer Registration # (Federal RN#) when mfr is FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
importer of record
Anchor Blue name or logo or Federal RN# when Anchor FTC – Textile Fiber Products ID Act
Blue is imported of record
Wool Product Label # (WPL#) FTC – Wool Labeling Act
DURABILITY VISUAL
Carpet/Rug must not exhibit a noticeable change in
appearance or fit after reasonable use and cleaning.
No fraying of hems, edges or trims.
No deterioration or yellowing of vinyl backing.
No objectionable pilling, change in hand or frosting of fabric.
FABRIC QUALITIES
Thread Count, warp & filling As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3775
Fabric Weight As Specified (+/- 5%) ASTM D3776
Yarn Size As Specified (+/- 10%) ASTM D1059, 1244
Fiber Content
Blends 3% Tolerance FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
Single Fiber No Tolerance FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
FLAMMABILITY
All blankets must meet industry Flammability testing is required for ASTM 4151 (Voluntary
flammability standards. items with fiber contents of a suspect Industry Standard)
nature, such as cotton, rayon, silk, or
a blend of these fibers.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Shrinkage, %
Length Width
Polyester/Acrylic/ Blends 3 X 3
Cotton/Cotton Blends 3.5 X 4 AATCC - 135, 150
Wool/Wool Blends 2 X 2 AATCC
- 158
SKEWING 5% AATCC
179
COLORFASTNESS
Laundering/Dry Cleaning AATCC 135, 150, 61
Color Change Grade 4 AATCC 132, 158
Staining Grade 3.5
Self-Staining Grade 4.5
Perspiration AATCC
15
Shade Change Grade 4
Staining Grade 3
STRENGTH PROPERTIES
Tensile Strength: Woven 25 lb. ASTM D5034
Bursting Strength: Knits 45 lb. ASTM D3786
Yarn Slippage 20 lb. ASTM D434
Beads 15 lb. ASTM
PS79
LABELING
Fiber Content FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
Country of Origin FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
Care Instructions FTC - Care Labeling Rule
RN Number FTC Textile Fiber ID Act
DURABILITY VISUAL
Items must not exhibit a noticeable change in appearance or fit after reasonable use and cleaning.
No fraying of hems, edges, or
trims.
No objectionable pilling, change in
hand or frosting of fabric.
CONSTRUCTION/FINISHING VISUAL
Seam Allowance/Type Must be appropriate for end use
As indicated on purchase order
All seams must be uniform and
clean finished
Construction Topstitching must be uniform &
consistent
No loose or broken stitches
No needle cutting
HARDLINE ACCESSORIES
JEWELRY
CORK BOARDS
INCANDESCENT LIGHTING FIXTURE
LIGHTING FIXTURE & PORTABLE LIGHTING
PORTABLE ELECTRIC LAMP
SUNGLASSES
Page
Contacts……………………………………………………………………………..…………………….. 39
U. S. Government Regulations…………………………………………………….……..…………….. 40
Testing Procedures………………………………………………………………………………………. 41
SGS
Global Key Account Manager (GKAM) for Anchor Blue
Mr. Joel Cass
Telephone: 714-536-2271
Fax: 973-575-1193
Email: joel.cass@sgs.com
Technical Manager
Harry Marcoux
Telephone: 630-518-6263
Fax: 630-897-8440
Email: harry.marcoux@sgs.com
Technical Manager
Piyush Shah
Telephone: 973-575-5252 ext. 2087
Fax: 973-575-8271
Email: piyush.shah@sgs.com
Suppliers must provide a continuing guarantee of compliance or test results assuring that requirements of all U.S.
Federal, State and Local Regulations are met.
Provide vendor with a copy of ANCHOR BLUE ACCESSORIES Quality Assurance Manual.
Provide vendors, SGS GKAM and laboratories with spreadsheet identifying styles to be tested.
Propose Label.
Evaluate all laboratory reports.
Vendor Responsibility
Distribute ANCHOR BLUE- ACCESSORIES Quality Assurance manual to approved SGS Laboratories
Upon receipt of sample, lab must notify vendor if sample does not contain artwork and findings as described
in the sample description on the test request form.
In case of dispute between vendor’s description and the test request description, the lab must email SGS
GKAM immediately for clarification.
Conduct tests as requested and evaluate test results as:
a) S – Satisfactory. Meets ANCHOR BLUE- ACCESSORIES Protocols
b) U – Unsatisfactory. Does not meet ANCHOR BLUE- ACCESSORIES Protocols
Visual evaluations must be described in a clear and precise way, so they may be easily interpreted by Anchor
Blue Quality Assurance Department
Test reports with Safety issue failures must indicate that samples required for retesting
Reports are to be issued in five (5) – ten (10) business days via email to:
a) Vendor (with invoice)
b) ANCHOR BLUE, Quality Assurance Department
(need contact info)
Email subject line must indicate style # so that reports are easily identified by client
Hard copy of report must be mailed to:
(need contact info)
ADDRESS: EMAIL:
PHONE: FAX:
ANCHOR BLUE BUYER:
REPORTS TO:
ITEM DESCRIPTION:
Include art work
COLOR: REF#:
STYLE #: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:
MFG: WEIGHT:
LABELED AGE GRADING: CONSTRUCTION:
PERFORMANCE STANDARD NUMBER:
VENDOR PROPOSED CARE INSTRUCTION: (Must be filled in below in order for testing to start)
SUPPLIER SIGNATURE:
DATE:
NOTE: Applicant is hereby authorizing SGS to provide a copy of the lab test results to Anchor Blue Spotswear
Service Required: □ Regular (4-5 days) □ Express (3 days) □ Return Residual Sample
SGS U.S. Testing Company Inc. / 291 Fairfield Avenue / Fairfield, NJ 07004
(800) 777-TEST (8378) / www.sgs.com
OVERALL RATING
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
ANCHOR BLUE
BUYER :
BUYER DEPT: :
CONTACT:
CLIENT CONTACT :
STYLE:
COLOR : COUNTRY OF ORIGIN :
ORDER: WEIGHT :
PERFORMANCE
STANDARD #:
SAMPLE RECEIVING TEST PERFORMING DATE :
DATE :
PREVIOUS REPORT #: RETEST: YES NO
TEST S U REMARKS
LABELING
LEAD IN PAINT COATING
WORKMANSHIP
GLASS STRESS
SWITCH DURABILITY
POLARIZED PLUG
TEMPERATURE TEST
RESISTANCE TO CORROSION
CONCLUSION :
LABELING
Labeling – Packaging Distributor’s Name & Address F.P. & L. Act
(When Applicable) (City, State & Zip) (See (16 CFR 500)
Minimum Labeling
Requirements: Business
Identification)
Product Identification
All
NAFTA & FTCA Sect. 5
Labeling & Claim Country of Origin
16 CFR 23
(If Imported)
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Physical Dimensions
Single (Length) Report overall dimension. Std Measure
If claims made the tolerance is
(-0%/+5%)
Pair (Length) Maximum 15% difference Std. Measure
between each in a pair
Total Weight
Single (Weight) Report total weight. If claims Std. Measure
made the tolerance is
(-0%/+5%)
Pair (Weight) Maximum 15% difference Std. Measure
between each in a pair
PERFORMANCE
Strength Properties:
Earring (Post Backing) Min. 100 Gm. Pull Strength ASTM D1683
LABELING
Labeling / Packaging Review Should be legibly marked with the 16 CFR 500
(If Applicable) following information:
“PROP 65 WARNING:
Handling The Coated Electrical
Wires Of This Product Exposes
You To Lead, A Chemical Known
To The State Of California To
Cause Cancer, Birth Defects Or
Other Reproductive Harm. Wash
Hands After Use.”
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Weight Of Components (lbs.) As claimed; swag lamps and 4 ft. of Std. Measure
chain shall not exceed 30 lbs.
Glass Thickness (in.) According to the exposed area of UL 1598 1st Ed.Sect.
the glass , thickness should be as 2.16
indicated in table 2.16.2.1 (Except
Halogen Lamps.)
Metal Sheet Thickness For Sheet thickness should be as UL 1598 1st Ed.Sect.
Enclosures (in) indicated in table 2.5.1 and 2.5.2 2.5
CONSTRUCTION QUALITIES
Workmanship Review All components shall be Visual Check
provided as claimed and shall
not be deformed or fractured.
All hardware shall be provided
All welds shall be smoothly
finished and free from pits and
splatter
All components shall not
contain any burrs or sharp edges
(test by touch or sight)
Glass Stress For glass held by friction, shall UL 1598 1st Ed.Sect.
withstand force equal to 4X glass 13.24.1
Wt.
Polarized Plug A fixture having a screw shell type UL 1598 1st Ed.Sect.
lamp holder shall be wired such that 3.3.4
a wire connected to the screwshell
or to the grounded (Neutral)
terminal of the receptacle is
identified at the point of connection
to the supply
Temperature Test Must not exceed max. temp. rise of UL 1598 1st Ed.Sect.
482°F (250 °C) – Nickel alloy or 11
392°F (200 °C) – Copper or
Aluminum for lampholder screw
shell and max. rise of 194°F (90oC)
at points of fixture support
Rain Test After 4 hours of rain test, the tested UL 1598 1st Ed.Sect.
sample shall: 13.5.2
#Claim Verification All designs and features must Visual Check / Actual
(If Claimed) conform to actual claim Use
Glass Lens Thickness 2.4mm (0.095 in) minimum if less UL 1598 1st Ed.Sect.
than 100W Or 3.0mm (0.118 in) 4.3.1.7
minimum if greater than 100W
ANALYTICAL
* Lead In PVC (Test Only If No If greater than 0.030 % Pb by US EPA SW 846
Prop 65 Warning On Package) weight (300 ppm), Then the cal. Method #3050
Prop. 65 warning should be present.
Country of Origin Marking (If Country of origin marking shall be NAFTA & FTCA /
imported) provided and clearly indicated to Sect. 5
the ultimate purchaser of a product
where it is made.
Safety Certification Mark The provided safety mark shall be Client Requirement
validated.
FCC Report (If applicable) The provided FCC report shall be Client Requirement
validated.
User Manual / Important Safety Instructions and warnings shall be UL153 12ed.
Instructions / Assembly provided in the user manual Cls 183-193
Instructions / wiring and identifying reasonable, foreseeable UL1598 1ed. Cls. 17.4-
Installation Instructions uses or misuses of the product. It 5
shall also include instructions
regarding the installation, use,
safety and maintenance.
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Overall Size (in.)Product dimension and packaging General Measurement
dimension
Lamp Bulb Type and rating of lamp bulb to be used Visual Check
Protective Glass for Dimension including the thickness of the General Measurement
Tungsten Halogen Unit protective glass
CONSTRUCTION QUALITIES
Workmanship Shall have no major defects such as: Visual Check
- Cracks or breaks on the provided
accessory.
- Serious scratches on the external
surface.
- Peeling off of rating or caution/warning
labels.
-
Glass Support Glass shall be secured in place and shall UL 1598, 1ed Cls.
not be subjected to undue strain in normal 2.17.1
use or maintenance to result in breakage
or release.
Type of Supply Cord The supply cord shall be of the type which UL 153, 12ed.
specified in table 31.1 of UL153 and it Cls. 31
shall not be smaller than No. 18AWG.
Length of Supply Cord The length of supply cord shall be at least UL 153, 12ed.
5 feet (1.524m) long. For outdoor unit, Cls. 31
the maximum cord length shall be 50 feet
(15.2 m).
Glass UV-Filter Glass UV filter shall be minimum 1/8 inch UL 153, 12ed.
(Portable Tungsten
Halogen Lamp) (3.2 mm) thick for over 100 W or 3/32 Cls. 52.5.4
inch (2.4 mm) thick for 100 watts or less.
Weight of the Ceiling A luminaire weighing more than specified UL 1598, 1ed.
Mounted Luminaires weight including lamps, shall be provided Cls. 7.2.5
with means for supporting the luminaire,
independent of the outlet box and shall be
provided with suitable installation
instruction.
Cycling Test for Each adjustable joint shall be subjected to Proprietary Method
Adjustable Joint the following test:
- 20 cycles performed on wall-mount unit
- 50 cycles performed on portable unit.
Chain/Cable of Chandelier For chandelier lighting, the chain length Home Depot
Lighting for US and Canada shall be at least 72", Requirement
the length of the cable shall be at least
96”.
Thumb Screw for Fixing Thumb screw for glass lampshade shall Home Depot
Glass Lampshade not equip with screw driving slot. Requirement
PERFORMANCE
Functional Check All the major features shall be described Actual Use
in the manual, with no misleading
information or any other user-friendliness
problems.
Rain Test After the test, no water shall be entered UL 153, 12ed.
(Outdoor Product Only) the luminaire such that caused a hazard Cls. 164
and the unit passes the dielectric voltage UL 1598, 1ed.
Cls. 13.5.2
withstand test.
Noise Check The product shall not have obvious noise, Proprietary Method
(For Ballast, dimmer or hamming noise or white noise.
transformer equipped
product)
Lamp Start Time Shall be less than 1 second. Proprietary Method
(For Ballast equipped
product)
Insufficient & Exceed Voltage The product shall be able to operate between Actual Use
of Power Supply 0.9-1.1 times rated voltage for 1 hour.
(For Ballast equipped
product)
Power loss of the dimmer When the unit operated at full output, the Proprietary Method
or transformer efficiency shall not less than 85%.
Power Factor For fluorescent lamp export to Canada, power General Measurement
(For Canada Product) factor shall have 0.9 or higher.
Grounding Continuity All exposed dead metal parts that are exposed UL 153, 12ed.
Test to contact during any servicing operation, Cls. 136
including maintenance and repair, and that can
become energized shall be electrically
UL 1598, 1ed.
connected to the grounding terminal and with Cls. 14.2
earth resistance not more than 0.1 Ohm.
Normal Temperature Under normal operating condition, the UL 153, 12ed.
Test accessible parts shall not attain excessive Cls. 125
(Portable Luminaires) temperature as follows:
Normal Temperature Test UL 1598, 1ed. Under normal operating condition, the
(Fixed Luminaires) Cls. 11.2 temperature of outlet box supply
conductors shall not exceed the
following:
- Dwellings (wall mount, USA): 90C
- Dwellings (wall mount, CAN): 75C
- Dwellings (ceiling mount): 90C
- Other than dwellings: 200C
Operation Test for Unit with Proprietary Method Luminaire shall not cause hazard when
Adjustable Lampshade operated at maximum wattage of rated
lamp and the lampshade adjusted to the
most thermally unfavorable position
(ie. Lamp bulb close to the adjustable
lampshade).
Verify Label Claims The labeling must comply and Visual Check
valid with all claims.
“PROP 65 WARNING:
Handling The Coated Electrical
Wires Of This Product Exposes
You To Lead, A Chemical Known
To The State Of California To
Cause Cancer, Birth Defects Or
Other Reproductive Harm. Wash
Hands After Use.”
MARKINGS
General Shall have markings of this section UL 153, 12th Ed.,
in permanent form described. Shall Section 169
include Manufacturer’s
identification, rating, mounting
orientation, hot surface warnings,
etc.
Tungsten Halogen Units Shall be marked as UL 153, 12th Ed., Section 171
described.
Fluorescent Units Shall be marked as UL 153, 12th Ed., Section 172
described.
Cord and Chain Suspended Shall be marked as UL 153, 12th Ed., Section 174
Units described.
Portable Cabinet Lights Shall be marked as UL 153, 12th Ed., Section 175
described.
Units for Use with Office Shall be marked as UL 153, 12th Ed., Section 176
Furnishings described.
Wet Location Use Shall be marked as UL 153, 12th Ed., Section 182
described.
INSTRUCTIONS
General Instructions shall be on the luminaire, on UL 153, 12th Ed.,
the carton, on a tag on the power cord or Section 183
stuffer sheet.
MECHANICAL
CONSTRUCTION
General The below apply to all luminaires. UL 153, 12th Edition,
2002, Section 7
Assembly and Shall be constructed so that assembly UL 153, 12th Ed,
Packaging shall only be in the correct manner. Wires Section 8
shall pass through joints that are separated
in packaging shall be as described.
Enclosure Openings Enclosure openings shall meet the UL 153,12th Ed., Section
requirements of section. 14
Wireways and Tubing Wiring pulled through tubing shall be able UL 153, 12th Ed.,
to be so pulled without damage to Section 15
insulation.
Shade Construction Shade shall be included unless shade is UL 153, 12th Ed.,
entirely decorative, and instructions are Section 16
provided.
Strain Relief Strain relief shall be present. Clamps UL 153, 12th Ed.,
shall not be used with cords listed, Section 17
including SPT-2.
ELECTRICAL
CONSTRUCTION
Assembly and Wiring shall be complete. UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Packaging Section 22
Accessibility of Live All parts required to be enclosed shall be UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Parts inaccessible to probe. Section 23
Splices and Connections Wire connections shall be twisted and UL 153, 12th Ed.,
solder dipped to at least 1/8”. Section 28
Connections and splices shall be
mechanically appropriate.
Power Supply Cords Shall be acceptable type, at least 5’ long, UL 153, 12th Ed.,
and at least 18 AWG. Section 31
Attachment Plugs Shall be polarized or grounding type, and UL 153, 12th Ed.,
appropriate per section. Section 32
Grounding and Bonding All accessible dead metal shall be UL 153, 12th Ed.,
grounded when a 3-prong plug is used. Section 36
Ground shall be secure per section.
Component Mounting Switches, lampholders and the like shall UL 153, 12th Ed.,
be prevented from turning that may twist Section 40
wiring.
Switches and Dimmers Switches, if used, shall be within rating, & UL 153, 12th Ed.,
not on ballast load side. Section 42
Receptacles Shall match plug type. Shall meet section. UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Section 43
Temperature Test- If complies with construction and shade UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Exempt Units requirements of this section, shall be Section 47
exempted from Sections 124 – 125.
#Claim Verification All designs and features must conform to Visual Check / Actual
(If Claimed) actual claim Use
Test Method – General Temperature Limits shall comply with UL 153, 12th Ed.,
requirements per section. Section 125
Drop Test If exempted from stability per 132.1.1, UL 153, 12th Ed.,
shall meet drop requirement per section. Section 134
GENERAL –
ELECTRICAL TESTS
Ground Continuity Shall have ground bond UL 153, 12th Ed.,
< 0.1 Section 136
Dielectric Voltage- Shall endure 1200 V A.C. for 1 minute UL 153, 12th Ed.,
Withstand Test per section. Section 137
ANALYTICAL
Lead In Scrapable Not in excess of 0.060% Pb by weight ASTM E1613/E1645
Surface Coating (CPSA - 16 CFR 1303)
Lead In PVC (Test If greater than 0.030% Pb by weight (300 US EPA SW 846
Only If No Prop 65 ppm), Then the cal. Prop. 65 warning Method #3050
Warning On Package) should be present.
REGULATORY
REQUIREMNT
Lead In Surface Coating Not in excess of 0.06% Pb US: ASTM E1613/ E1645
(If Applicable) by weight (16 CFR 1303)
SUNGLASSES
FLAMMABILITY
FLAMMABILITY No part of the sunglasses US: ANSI Z80.3 Section 5.3
shall ignite within the
specified test period.
Deformation or any other
deterioration, other than
ignition, is permitted.
PERFORMANCE
Transmittance Properties Luminous US: ANSI Z80.3 Section 5.6.3
Related To Traffic Signal transmittance: > 8% (Table 4)
Recognition Transmittance of the
traffic signal through
the lens shall be
Red signal > 8%
Yellow signal > 6%
Green signal > 6%
Resistance to Radiation The relative change in US: ISO 8980-3 Clause 6.7
the luminous
transmittance shall be
less than ±20%
Astigmatic power:
Max. refractive power
difference <1/8 diopter between
any two meridans within an
individual lens
Prismatic power:
<1/4 prism diopter within
an individual lens,
<1/2 prism diopter between
two lenses mounted in a
frame
Luminous Transmittance General purpose lens > 8- US: ANSI Z80.3 Section 5.6.1
40% (Table 4)
Spectral Transmittance & The spectral transmittance EU: EN 1836: 1997 Clause
Recognition Of Signal Lights and recognition of signal 4.1.2.2.1
(Applicable For sunglasses For light shall comply with the & Clause 4.1.2.2
Road Use and Driving) requirement in 4.1.2.2
Blue Light Absorption The solar blue light EU: EN 1836: 1997 Clause
(Applicable For Claimed Filter transmittance shall not 4.1.4.1
to Blue Light) exceed the claimed limit.
FIBER LABELING
General Labeling Provisions Name and place of US: FDA 21 CFR 801.1 -
For Sunglasses business of 801.15
manufacturer, packer
or distributor
Intended uses (labeled
or advertised)
No misleading Other Countries:
statements (If Applicable) Visual Check
Adequate directions for
use
Prominence of required
label statements
Labeling Requirement For Over- Principal display panel US: FDA 21 CFR 801.60 -
The-Counter Sunglasses Statement of identity 801.63
Declaration of net
quantity
Use of impact
resistant lenses In
sunglasses
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Frame Size Measurement US- As approved/ product Other Countries: Standard
specification/ as claimed/ as Measure
measured (+5% / -0%)
CONSTRUCTION
QUALITIES
Cosmetic Quality Of The Lens Visually inspect the US: ANSI Z80.3 Section 4.4
lens at about 12” from
an open-shaded 40W
incandescent clear
lighting against a dark
background
Shall be reasonably
free of pits, scratches,
grayness, water marks,
bubbles, cracks,
striate, inclusions and
local irregularities
which produce
aberrations that would
impair or prevent the
normal use of the lens
as intended
SUNGLASSES
PERFORMANCE
Normal Use/Functionality Shall withstand 500 cycles All Countries: Actual Use
of normal use.
No structural failure.
No loose parts.
Temple arms, hinges and
nose pads must be
functional as intended
after testing
Resistance To Drop The sample shall not All Countries: SGS In House
break or show visible Method
defect after dropping from
4.5 ft onto vinyl flooring
Corrosion Resistance The sample shall not show All Countries: SGS In House
(Applicable on Metallic any sign of corrosion after Method
Components Only) 24 hours in 38 deg C and
85% R.H.
Boiling Water Test Tinted lens is boiled in All Countries: Visual Check
(Applicable to Tinted Lens) water for a period of 15
minutes.
No fractured, crazed or
delaminated lens. Any
marking on the frame
should remain permanent
and legible.
Boiling Salt Water and Cross- Coated lens is boiled in US: ASTM D3359 (Mod.)
Cut Adhesion Test 1% saline water for a Visual Check
(Applicable to Coated Lens) period of 15 minutes. No
fractured lens.
ANALYTICAL
Toxicology MSDS document review US: FDA 21 CFR 170-189
(Applicable For Plastic or must comply with
Components) regulations of US FDA
food simulating solvent
extraction limits.
Cadmium In Plastic Component Not in excess of 0.08% Cd US: EPA SW 846 Method #
(For California: Prop 65) by weight 3050B/3051
Lead In Plated Or Unplated Not in excess of 0.02% Pb US: EPA SW 846 Method #
Metal Component by weight 3050B/3051
(Ca. Prop 65)
USA Europe
Asia
Package Pricing
JEWELRY $ 175.00 $ 295.00
FALSE
FALSE
FALSE
CORK BOARDS
Lead in Scrapable Surface Coating (per color) $ 50.00 $ 95.00
Additional Coating (per color) $ 25.00 $ 50.00
Toxicology - Food Contact (FDA) (Per Solvent) $ 295.00 $ 395.00
FALSE
INCANDESCENT LIGHTING FIXTURE $ 695.00 $ 995.00
FALSE
FALSE
FALSE
LIGHTING FIXTURE & PORTABLE LIGHTING $ 695.00 $ 995.00
FALSE
FALSE
FALSE
PORTABLE ELECTRIC LAMP $ 800.00 $ 1,125.00
ADDITIONAL TESTS
Lead in Scrapable Surface Coating (per color) $ 50.00 $ 95.00
Additional Coating (per color) $ 25.00 $ 50.00
Total Lead (each component) $ 75.00 $ 125.00
Nickel Leaching / Release $ 75.00 $ 125.00
Additional Size $ 25.00 $ 50.00
Additional Color $ 25.00 $ 50.00
Lead Content in PVC (per color) $ 75.00 $ 125.00
Corrosion Resistance $ 75.00 $ 125.00
Note:
Additional / Failed tests will be retested at 30%
discount applied from regional lab price list.
India: Full regional prices
SGS Labs:
Asia: Bangladesh, China, Hong Kong, Korea,
Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand
India: New Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Tirupur,
Thane (Bombay)
Middle East: Dubai, Egypt, Turkey
Central America: Guatemala
USA and Europe: UK, New Jersey, California
May 8, 2006