FINISHING PROCESSES

In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context. Some finishing techniques such as bleaching and dyeing are applied to yarn before it is woven while others are applied to the grey cloth directly after it is woven or knitted. Some finishing techniques, such as fulling, have been in use with hand-weaving for centuries; others, such as mercerisation, are byproducts of the Industrial Revolution.

In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different types of physical and chemical treatments. For example, wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease-free or wrinkle-free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, waterproof, anti-static and peach finishing achieve various fabric properties desired by consumers. The use of 100% synthetic textiles has increased considerably since the development of textured yarns made of filaments, and the growing production of knit goods. The use of open weave has enabled production of lighter, breathable, fabrics to ensure better wearing comfort. The properties of plastic-based synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and polyacrylonitrile, are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibers. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic fabrics require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already exhibit these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation.

Functional Finishes
The properties of synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and polyacrilonitrile, are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibers. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosics require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already have these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation. The use of 100% synthetic textiles has increased considerably since the arrival texurised yarns consisting of filaments and the growing production of knit goods. The use of open weave has enabled production of lighter, air permeable, fabrics to ensure better wearing comfort.

CALENDERING
Calendering is a finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed under rollers at high temperatures and pressures. Calendering is used on fabrics such asmoire to produce its watered effect and also on cambric and some types of sateens. In preparation for calendering, the fabric is folded lengthwise with the front side, or face, inside, and stitched together along the edges. The fabric can be folded together at full width, however this is not done as often as it is more difficult. The fabric is then run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous. High temperatures and pressure are used as well. Fabrics that go through the calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery. The calendering finish is easily destroyed, and does not last well. Washing in water destroys it, as does wear with time. Several different finishes can be achieved through the calendering process by varying different parts. The main different types of finishes are beetling, watered, embossing and Scheiner. Beetled Beetling is a finish given to cotton and linen cloth, and makes it look like satin. In the beetling process the fabric goes over wooden rollers and is beaten with wooden hammers. Watered The watered finish, also known as moire, is produced by using ribbed rollers. These rollers compress the cloth and the ribs produce the characteristic watermark effect by moving aside threads as well as compressing them. This leaves some of the threads round while others get compressed and become flat.[ Embossed In the embossing process the rollers have engraved patterns on them, and the patterns become stamped onto the fabric The end result is a raised or sunken pattern, depending on the roller.[6] This works best with soft fabrics. Scheiner Similar to the watered process, in the Scheiner process the rollers are ribbed, only in the Scheiner process the ribs are very fine, with as many as six hundred ribs per inch under extremely high pressure. The threads are pressed flat with little lines in them, which causes the fabric to reflect the light better than a flat surface would. Cloth finished with the Scheiner method has a very high luster, which is made more lasting by heating the rollers.

Calendering, process of smoothing and compressing a material (notably paper) during production by passing a single continuous sheet through a number of pairs of heated rolls. The rolls in combination are called calenders. Calender rolls are constructed of steel with a hardened

surface, or steel covered with fibre; in paper production, they typically exert a pressure of 500 pounds per linear inch (89 kilograms per centimetre). Coated papers are calendered to provide a smooth, glossy finish. Calendering is also widely used in the manufacture of textile fabrics, coated fabrics, and plastic sheeting to provide the desired surface finish and texture.