TEXTILE FINISHING

Prof. V.Sivalingam
Fashion & Textiles
NIFT - Bangalore
“FINISHING” Final step in the manufacturing of
textile materials.

Process by which the final properties of the material are

developed.

Alter the appearance, aesthetics, & surface

characteristics for improved product
performance

Property modification is achieved through

various techniques, both chemical and
physicochemical.
Objectives of Finishes
Modify or improve the hand of the fabric
Make fabric attractive and serviceable
Produce a change in behavior
Provide specific characteristics & desired properties
Control shrinkage of fabric
Provide aesthetic value to fabric
To conceal inferior structure

To simulate superior quality

The functions of finishes is necessary in
order to select the proper fabric suitable for
the following specific consideration

• Climate condition
• Work related activities
• Sports related activities
• Care factors
• Construction procedures
• Design and end use of the fabric and garment
• Life of garment
• International trade commission rulings
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES

According To Designer/Merchandiser/Sales Personals

AESTHETIC FINISHES: Change the appearance or hand of the

garment & are pleasing to both hand & eye.

FUNCTIONAL FINISHS: Alter or improve the wear ability &

performance of fabric or garment & provide for:
Additional comfort
Environmental or biological resistance
Durability for wear life of garment
Improved care performance
According To Textile Chemists

MECHANICAL OR DRY FINISHES:

Cause a physical change in the fabric. Finishes are
applied by mechanical equipment such as cu plates,
drying cylinders, perforated cylinder or stenter frames.
Fabrics are handled in dry state.

CHEMICAL OR WET FINISHES:

Acid, Alkalis, Bleaches, Detergents, Softeners, Resins &
other chemical substances cause a reaction & produce
permanent change in fibre molecular structure.
According To Degree Of Performance

PERMANENT FINISHES: Involve a chemical change in the fibre

structure. Once it is applied will not change or alter throughout
the life of the fabric. Effectiveness of finish will withstand
throughout the life of the fabric.

DURABLE FINISHES: Effectiveness will withstand for 50-60

cleanings. Near the end of the normal use life of the garment the
finish is completely removed.

SEMI DURABLE FINISHES: Last through 25-30 cleanings.

TEMPORARY FINISHES: are removed completely in 1-2

cleanings. it only add appearance or hand of the fabric i.e.
increase the sale ability of inferior fabric.
CALENDARING
Compression of the fabric b/w 2 heavy rolls to give
flattened, smooth appearance of the fabric by the action of
heat & pressure.
Surface of the roller can be either smooth or engraved.
One roll is usually metal and the other is usually covered
with paper or fabric.
Moisture in the form of water or steam may be used to
achieve a desired luster.
Resins required to be used to make calendaring durable
on cellulosic fabrics. Without the resin the effect lasts
only one laundering
 Calendaring-PURPOSES
smoothing the surface of the fabric

increasing the fabric luster

closing the threads of woven fabrics

decreasing the air permeability

increasing the fabric opacity
improving the fabric handle
flattening slubs
SWISSING OR NORMAL GLOSS

A cold calendar produces a smooth flat fabric.

If the steel bowl of the calendar is heated thus

produces lustrous fabric.

If a 7-bowl multi purpose calendar is used the

result is smooth fabric with surface gloss on both
sides of the fabric.
CHINTZ OR GLAZZING OR FRICTION CALENDARING

The top 4 bowls of a 7- bowl may be lifted up (3 roll process).

produces a high degree of luster on one side of the fabric

(which touches the iron bowl).

Gives high polished surface like glazed chintz cotton fabric.

If very highly gloss required the fabric is pre-impregnated

with a wax emulsion- temporary finish.

if the fabric is pre-treated with resin this is a semi-durable

finish.
CIRE CALENDARING
3-Bowl calendaring

Top bowl rotates much greater than the lower rolls.

The resultant fabric becomes highly lustrous.

Fabrics of cotton, rayon, polyester, nylon & blends may be

given cire finish.

The fabrics are pretreated with wax or resin, to get highly

polished effect.
When synthetics are cire finished, the fabrics become
moderately water-repellent due to flattening or partially
fusing of fabric.
EMBOSSED CALENDARING
3 bowl calendaring,Produces 3-dimensional design on fabric.

Embossing calendar consists of heated hollow metal roller

engraved with the embossing design & solid paper roller twice
the size of engraved roller. Fabric is drawn b/w the 2 rollers &
is embossed with design.

Fabric is passed between these rolls and the pattern is set into
the fabric by heat & pressure.

If synthetic fabric, it is a permanent finish

Cotton fabrics must have a resin finish to give a durable effect.
 MOIRE CALENDARING
Produces wood grain design on the face side of the fabric.
There are 2 ways to achieve this result:

METHOD1: Rib fabric (faille/taffeta) & balanced plain weave fabric

are placed face to face. Both the fabrics are fed into smooth heated
metal rolls for calendaring keeping the speed of the rib fabric greater
than that of the plain woven fabric. The pressure on the calendar rolls is
maintained at about 8-10 tons.

The result is undefined watermark or moire effect is formed on

rib woven fabric

METHOD2: Embossed metal roll is used which has moire pattern

engraved on it..
 SCHRENIER CALENDARING
3-bowl calendaring process,Gives silk like brilliance
appearance

Produces soft, smooth & luster on the fabric & improved fabric cover.

Top metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal

lines per inch
This finish scatters light rays & produces a deep scattered luster rather
shines.
It can upgrade low quality cotton fabric.
Soft, opaque lingerie fabrics are produced from tricot knits may be
given this finish
NAPPING/BRUSHING
Mechanical finish for woven & knitted fabrics.

Fabrics are passed against rotating bristled wire covered

rollers. Thereby raising the fibres from fabric surface (pile
effect).

Provides softer hand & better insulation, widely used in

blankets, sleep wear & winter clothing.

As a pretreatment the fabric should be padded with a

softener to make the fibres in the yarn to slide freely during
the napping operation.

Drawback: subject to pilling in particularly sleeve ends, coat

fronts, buttonholes, elbows & other rubbing areas.
BEETLING

A Mechanical finish That utilizes wooden

beetlers to flatten the yarns in the fabric
structures.

Closes weaves of the fabric structure

Imparts firm appearance
To increase the softness AND LUSTRES

Provides simulated linen-look to cotton fabrics.

EMERIZING, SUE DING, SANDING OR PEACH FINISH

Produces soft & smooth/ silky feel.

The fabric moves under 2 or more rollers with fine emery

paper on first roller to more abrasive paper in each
successive roller.

Abrades the surface causing fibrils to split from the fibres.

Abrasion generate heat may cause harshness on synthetic

fabric.
 Contd…

Decrease the strength by 60%.

After this finish=> heat set=> washing=> dyeing

Dry cleaning is preferred for this fabric.

Can be applied to p/c, p/n blends, & 100% silk, polyester,

nylon & micro denier synthetics for sportswear.
 FINISHING CHEMICALS
STIFFENING AGENTS: Include Thickeners Like Corn,
Wheat, Maize, Or Potato Starch, Tapioca, Arrow Root Starch,
Sago, Dextrin, Gums, Casein, Gelatine, Glue, Methyl
Cellulose Etc…

SOFTENERS: Include Glycerine, Glucose, Fatty matters,

Tallow, Paraffin, Stearin, Coconut Oil, Soap, Polyethylene
Emulsion Etc…

WEIGHTING MATERIALS: Calcium Sulphate, Gyosum,

Magnesium Sulphate, Laube’s Salt, Barium Chloride,
Magnesium Chloride, China Clay, Talc, Stealite, Etc…
ANTISEPTICS: Alum, Boric Acid, Phenol, Oxalic Acid,
Zinc Sulphate, Sodium Silicofluoride,creosote, Etc..

WATER PROOFING AGENTS: Vulcanized Natural

Rubber, Oxidized Oils Or Acetate, Polyvinylidene Chloride,
Etc…

WATER REPELLANTS: Include Metallic Soaps Like

Aluminium Stearate, Paraffin Wax Or Vegetable Wax, Micro
Crystalline Waxes, Etc…

FLAME RETARDANTS: Water Soluble Compounds Of

Phosphorus, Antimony & Boron Especially Phosphates &
Borates, Etc
CREASE RESISTING & CROSSLINKING AGENTS:
Dimetylol Urea, Polymethylol Melamine, Dimethylol Propylene Urea,
Etc…

SOIL RELEASE AGENTS: Acrylic Copolymers( E.G. 70%

Methacrylic Acid & 30% Ethyl Acrylate), Fluoro chemical Based
Chemicals (e.g. Polyacrylates In Which The Alcohol Portion
Contains Fluorine Atoms Instead Of Hydrogen Attached To Carbon
Atoms)

ANTISTATIC AGENTS: Polyethylene Glycol, Salts Of High

Molecular Weight Fatty Amide- Fatty Alcohol- Ethylene Oxide
Condenates, Dialkyl Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride, Etc….

WOOL SHRINK- RESISTING AGENTS: Reactive Pre

Polymers Containg Carbamoyl Sulphate Groups, Isocyanate-
Terminated Urethanepre Polymeretc….
ANTI PILLING AGENTS: Pilling Is An
Unpleasant Phenomenon Usually Associated
With Spun Yarn Fabrics, Especially Those
Containing Synthetic Fibres. Formation Of
Polymer Film Such As Polyvinyl Propionate,
Polyacrylates Etc Resin Finishing Reduce
Pilling.

FLUOROCHEMICAL REPELLENTS: For

Imparting Both Oil & Water Repellency To Textiles Fluoro
polymers Such As Vinyl Polymers Of Acrylic Or Methacrylic
Type, Copolymers Of Vinyl Polymers Of Acrylic Or
Methacrylic Type, Copolymers Of Vinyl Esters, Etc….
 SHRINKAGE CONTROL FINISHES

WHAT IS SHRINKAGE?

Reduction in
the length or
width of a fibre, yarn
or fabric
Increase in size -
growth
CAUSES OF SHRINKAGE
Intermolecular structure of fibres
Yarn twist
Fabric construction (yarns/inch)
Weave / knit structure
Woven fabrics generally shrink more in the warp than in
the weft direction because the warp yarns are under
excessive tension during weaving.
Knit fabrics tend to stretch more during production than
woven fabrics hence shrink more than woven fabrics
TYPES OF SHRINKAGE

RELAXATION SHRINKAGE - Caused by

relaxing of tensions imposed in fabric
manufacture.

PROGRESSIVE SHRINKAGE - Occurs each time

the fabric is laundered.

RESIDUAL SHRINKAGE – Small amount of

shrinkage potential remain even after fabric is pre-
shrunk.
STENTER

Drying or curing of fabric

Finishes are applied by padding, & then dry/ cure
on the stenter
Heat setting in case of synthetic fabrics
Width setting of fabric
Shrinkage control to some extent
 BOW & SKEW CONTROLLING ZONE

OVER FED ROLLERS

 PINNING

CLOSE VIEW OF PINS

FOR HOLDING
SELVEDGE OF FABRIC
HEAT SETTING CHAMBERS
SHRINKAGE CONTROL METHODS
COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE (SANFORIZATION)

Mechanical finishing technique, generally used for

cellulose based fabrics.
Impart shrinkage to the fabric and improve luster
of the fabric.
Before the processing a sample of the fabric must be
washed by standard test methods designed to indicate
the maximum shrinkage expected during the useful
life of the fabric.
The result used to determine how much the fabric
will be preshrunk.
The machine consists of a roller covered with a
thick blanket or rubber belt.
The outer surface of the blanket or belt is
stretched as it passes around the roller.
The compression and stretching is imparted while
the fabric is passing in between them.
The relaxed fabric is pressed in hot metal plate.
The result is that the fabric has been shrunk in
both warp and weft direction and relaxation
shrinkage is eliminated.
The fabric is then passed through the stenter frame, where
it is pulled in side to side and length to length in the
presence of steam to release the tension on both warp and
weft direction
1. Fabric
2. Felt blanket
3. Hot Metal
roller
4. Big cylinder
SHRINKAGE CONTROL FOR KNITS

Firstly fabric is treated with resin containing solution, then dried

Compressive shrinkage processes for knits use different

methods to return fabrics to their relaxed position
SHRINKAGE CONTROL FOR WOOL
 LONDON SHRUNK
Controls relaxation shrinkage
Used for high quality worsted fabric.
Wet worsted cloth and cotton blanket placed
on long platform, a layer of fabric spread on
it.
Weight placed on top for 12 hrs.
Hanged to dry naturally.
Fabric layered with special perforated boards.
Pre heated metal plates inserted at intervals.
Kept under 3000 lbs pressure for 10-12 hrs.
Finally tension is removed.
 DECATING / DECATIZING

A wet or dry mechanical finishing process

Wool fabric wounded with blanket on perforated cylinder.

Jet of steam released through holes.

Causing fabric dampened and relaxed.

Cold air blown through fabric.

Helps even the yarn and set the grain of fabric

Enhances and sets the natural luster of fabrics .
Helps to overcome uneven or blotchy dyeing.
Produces smooth and wrinkle free fabricks
 POTTING / BOILING

• A wet or dry mechanical finishing process

• Helps even the yarn and set the nap of fabric

For napped , sueded & fine wool.

Fabric may be wounded on roller, wrapped in

cotton.
Immersed in high temperature.
No boiling water.
 IWS SUPER WASH
Super wash is wool bureau’s trademark for
fabric

application of resin, covered the scale surface

on the wool fiber.

Semi – durable finish will withstand for 25-30

launderings.

Excellent wash ability without affecting strength

or fabric hand.
DEGRADATIVE PROCESSES
 POLYMER BASED PROCESSES

Chemical finishing process for woollen fabrics

♥ Application of thin polymeric layer to surface

♥ Polymer coats the scales, inhibiting interlocking action and

prvents shrinkage.
♥ Durable finish- 30 to 40 washes
♥ Most effective for garments, especially sweaters.

♥ Problem encounters ,fabric becomes stiff or harsh to touch

when enough resin or polymer is used to make fabric
completely shrink proof.
CONTD…
SHRINKAGE CONTROL THROUGH HEAT SETTING

May be performed in fabric or garment form.

Controls relaxation shrinkage. Used for thermo plastic fibres
Fabrics will be stabilized in natural configuration when heated at softening
temperature. During this condition, stress / strain is released.
Process for stabilizing polyester and nylon fabrics by heating at 350-
4000F for 20-60 seconds.
Not effective on cotton or rayon.
Synthetics can permanently set into shape .By subjecting heat near their
glass transition temperature.
Heat allows molecules to relax, result is the fiber do not exhibit further
shrinkage.
 SHRINKAGE CONTROL THROUGH HEAT
SETTING

Uneven heat setting causes the fabric to

dry unevenly and therefore be subjected to
uneven heat setting.
Differential dyeing, bow-bias and
yellowing can result.
May cause shade variation from side-to-
side if done prior to dyeing.
May cause variations in shrinkage
WATER REPELLENT/
WATER PROOF
FINISHES
Water repellency depends on surface tension & fabric penetrability.

Fabric resist wetting but air/ moisture can penetrate.

It is achieved by combination of fabric structure & finish.

Commonly used chemicals are: paraffin

wax, paraffin wax
with Al or Cr salt, pyridinum salt, reactive silicon
resins, fluoro carbon emulsion.
Applied by pad-dry-cure

These chemicals fill the gaps warp/weft yarns in fabric.

WATER PROOF FABRIC
provide protection under all
conditions of wet weather,
fabric is coated or
laminated with a film of
natural or synthetic rubber
or plastic such as vinyl or
polyurethane,
permanent finish
 WATER PROOF BREATHABLE
LAMINATED FABRIC

Consisting of extremely thin

laminate(0.001inch) made
from Teflon, provides a
water proof yet breathable
fabric,
Laminate sheet contains over one
billion extremely fine holes per inch,
laminate can be applied on to
woven/ knitted fabric.
Applications: heavy duty military protective clothing, rain
wear, ski wear, golf suits, sports footwear linings,.
hospital drapes, mattress, tarpaulins, tents & sleeping bag
covers
 ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES
Prevents growth of bacteria & odor causing germs, prevents
decay & damage from perspiration, control the spread of
disease & reduce the risk of infection following injury.

Used in intimate apparels/ body fit garments/ jogging & exercise clothing/
sportswear, shoe linings, hospital linen & carpets.

Chemicals used are:

Quartenary Ammonium Compounds,
Zirconium & N-halamines
Usually applied by pad-dry-cure
Semi durable finish
INSECT & MOTH CONTROL FINISHES

Mainly applied for wool & wool blends.

Reduces or prevents damage by moths and insects
Chemical & Semi durable finish and applied by pad-dry-
cure.

Permethrin is applied at the scouring or dyeing stage

The prime requirement of mothproofing agent is that it to be

toxic to moths & beetles that attack wool, but it must not be
toxic to human beings at concentration levels used for
mothproofing
FABRIC FLAMMABILITY
Fabrics can be placed in different categories with regard to
flammability:

FLAMMABLE: Completely consumed when exposed to fire.

FLAME RESISTANT: Chemically treated to resist the spread of

the flame.

FLAME PROOF: Fabrics made of fibres that are inherently non-

flammable, example: glass, kevlar, nomex.
FACTORS WHICH AFFECT THE DEGRE OF
FABRIC FLAMMABILITY

Fibre content
More air spaces within the
fabric to burn more easily
Light weight fabric
Low twist in yarn
Thin yarn
Low yarn/ stitches per inch
Pile or napped surface.
DURABLE FLAME RETARDANT
SOIL RELEASE
&
STAIN REPELLENT
FINISHES
 Soiling

Soiling generally means staining of a large

surface of the fabric with dust, dirt, oil or grease.

Mechanism of soiling:
• By mechanical adhesion of soil to the cloth.
• By adhesion by electrical forces.
• By redeposition of soil during washing.
Problems raised due to soiling:
• Not easy release of soil.
• Spoiling of brightness and whiteness.
• Dull appearance.
Application
Soil release finishes based upon the use of organo
silicon compounds are applied by pad-dry-cure
process.

Fabric is padded with a mixture of methyl hydrogen

polysiloxane and acetyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride
together with zinc acetate

Dried

Cured at 160 C for a few minutes

Scotchgard is a stain management
program trademarked by 3M Company.
It is effective for both oil as well as water
born stains.
Durability of finish depends on the
buyer’s specification; it could be
permanent, durable or semi-durable.
It works on natural fabrics as well as
synthetic
does not affect the breath ability of
fabrics.
three main stain management finishes
with scotchgard trademark :
STAIN REPELLENT FINISH
STAIN RELEASE FINISH
DUAL ACTION FINISH
 CONTENTS

Introduction

Technology for wrinkle free

Processes
Chemicals
Machines
The wrinkle free finish also known
as….
Durable Press

Permanent Press

Wrinkle-Resistant

Wash and Wear

No-Iron

Uncrushables

Ultra Press
 How does wrinkles occur ??
TWO MAIN FACTORS Heat & Water

Plastic Phase

Glass Transition Temperature

Chemical Structure of cellulosic fiber

Glass Phase
 Choosing fabric for “wrinkle free” finish
Sufficient strength
Excellent absorbency
High degree of size removal
Ph between 6.5 to 7.0 with 0.05 percent
alkalinity

Generally the count of the yarns used in fabrics

for wrinkle free garments are:

80’s 2 ply (shirts)

80’s 3 ply (semi formal trousers)

40’s 2 ply (semi formal trousers)

100’s 3 ply (formal suits)

The problems arising in wrinkle free garments:

Wrinkle-resistant garments are not free

from problems. Earlier technologies
used cause various troubles like:

Attraction to grease and oil,

Frosting (localised colour fading)

Fabric debasement

Environmental interests are connected with

these garments.

Though, most of the problems have been reduced, companies are continuously
uncovering techniques to better the properties. To improve the aesthetics is the
biggest achievement.
 Pre-cure Process

Fabric treated with resin

Dried

Cured in flat open width fabric

fabric

Cutting and Sewing

High Temperature Pressing

Cotton-polyester blends, shaped garments

Used for shirting, draperies, home furnishing

Semi durable
•Post-cure Process

Resin padded onto fabric

Dried at low temperature

Fabric cut , garment constructed

Used for P/C and P/V blends

Creases pressed into the garment
limitations of colors, styles and fabric weight,

Need for a direct interface between mills,

garment manufacturers and retailers.
Cured in hanging position in oven for
3-5 min at 1300-1500C(depending on Durable
chemical used)
 •Post-cure Process

feed

Cool&
batch

pad Dry without curing (optional) compressive shrinkage inspection

sewing

cutting
Pressing in crease Curing oven Finished slacks
Anti Static Finish
It helps to neutralize static charges development

Chemicals of quaternary ammonium compounds,

cationic organic compounds or a blend of cationic
surface-acting agents are applied to the fabric by
pad-dry –cure and spraying methods.
It is a semi durable chemical finish.
Applied to synthetic fiber fabrics
Reduces or eliminate static electricity
Prevents clinging characteristics of garments to body
or other garments
Reduces static attraction of dirt or lint.
 ULTRA VOILET FINISHES
The extent to which a woven
or a knitted fabric transmits,
absorbs, or reflects UV radiation
determines its sun protection
properties.

Higher is the transmission,

or lower is the absorption,
lower is the protection offered
by the textile for the wearer
There are two possibilities of reducing UV
transmittance by fabrics –

Reducing the porosity through modification of construction.

By improving the absorption and reflection properties of the

fabric.
The transmission, absorption , and reflection are in turn
dependent on the fibre, fabric construction (thickness and
porosity) and finish.

Grey cotton shows good protection in comparison to

scoured and bleached cotton offer poor protection.

Wool provides maximum protection, while silk is

intermediate between the two fibres.

Synthetic fibres, in general are better UV absorbers as

compared to natural fibres. Polyester is the best due to its
aromatic structure.

Addition of the delusterant Tio2 modifies the reflection and

absorption of the UV rays by the fibre leading to increased
scattering.
MICRO ENCAPSULATED FINISHES

Micro encapsules are b/w 5-50 microns & may contain

fragrance, insect repellents, disinfectants, cleaning agents or
activated charcoal.

Micro capsule are sprayed on to a fabric & held in place with

poly vinyl alcohol or acrylic binder.

Normal rubbing during wear rupture the capsules & release the
Fragrance.
A physicochemical technique

Moth protecting agents have micro capsulated for

application to wool products

Micro capsules containing bacterial agents are applied to

socks underwear, women’s intimate apparel & active wear.

Activated charcoal is used as a deodorant finish to absorb

body odor for gym wear active sports wear, intimate
apparels & hunter clothing.
THANKS