FINISHING OF GARMENTS

- Durable press finish - Wash-n-wear finish

Presented by: Avinash Mishra Saurabh Suman

Cellulose fibres and especially cotton are still important fibres due to various advantages. However, one of their main disadvantages is wrinkling after washing which can be overcome by a very special kind of finish. These are called as Drip-dry, Wash & Wear, Easy care, Easy to iron, no-iron, crease resistant, durable press, permanent press, shrink proof, wrinkle free finishes

WASH & WEAR FINISHES:

These are also referred to as drip-dry finishes. They are of the same type as wrinkle resistant finishes. Garments made of fabrics with wash and wear finishes will dry smooth and need little or no ironing after washing. The fabrics have a good soft hand and a neat appearance. Wash and wear finishes have been primarily used on broad cloth and oxford shirting and applied to other cotton fabrics.

Each company has its own trade mark for its drip-dry finish. Garments made of fabrics treated with this finish may be Commercially laundered. The primary advantage is that such garments launder easily at home and need no ironing. This tends to increase their wear since home laundering is less harsh as a mild soap is used. In some cases, wash and wear finishes cause yellowing when a chlorine bleach is used, labels should therefore be read carefully. Do not wring the garments or spin dry them in washing machine or in a dryer. Rinse them well, hang them on wooden or plastic hangers, buttoned and straightened out and allow them to drip dry.

Durable or Permanent press finishes:

The development of permanent press, also referred to as PP & durable press finishing techniques is s great achievement for manufacturers to overcome difficulties in making wrinkle resistant goods in to garments. This finish gave the fabrics a built- in memory which interfered with shaping garments to conform to body contours, pressing creases into trousers and putting pleats in skirts. Wash and wear finishes described earlier is a pre cured process, i.e., before the goods are cut and sewn into garments. The permanent press finishes are post cured.

I. Fabric

Resin Cross linking

Dry at open width

Pre cured

Cut, sew and press

Cure at open width

Ex: Shirting, Draparies etc. which require C/P blends not set in creases.

II.

Post cured or permanent press: Resin cross linking Dry at open width

Fabric

Post cured

Cure products at 300-400o F

Cut, sew and press

Ex: Used for skirts, slacks and other products. Common with cotton and polyester blends.

Methods of application on garments: 1. Immersion process: Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look Immerse the garment or product in the finishing agent and extract excess finish and dry the product. Hand and performance are modified with fabric softeners and other compounds so that the finished product will appeal to consumers.

Press desired features-like creases, pleats etc. in to garment with special press Cure product in curing oven at 300o F for 5-15 min Used for fashion apparel of 100% cotton Also known as the garment or product dip process

2. Metered-Addition process: Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look Spray the garments or product with finishing agent in a rotating chamber. Tumble till uniformly processed Hand and performance can be adjusted with fabric softeners and other compounds Press desired features

Cure at 300o F for 5-15 min. Used for fashion apparel and furnishings, bed linens and towels of 100% cotton 3. Vapour phase process: Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion look Press desired features into garment with a hot press

Hand and performance can be adjusted with softeners and other compounds Apply finish in a vapour form to the product in a closed chamber and cure while in chamber Used for cotton and other natural fibres Uses less finishing chemicals so the effect on hand, abrasion resistance and staining is less

Keraton, Super crease, Dan-press, Cone press, Sharp shape, Kara set, Never-press, Ameri-set are some of the trade names for permanent press or durable press finish fabrics.

DURABLE PRESS WOOL: It is achieved by a combination of resin treatment Which controls wools excessive shrinkage. Si-Ro-Set is a trade name. 1. Flat fabric is treated with 1-2% of durable press resin and steamed for 3-5 minutes 2. Item is made up, sprayed with more durable press resin and pressed Shrink resistance resin is mixed with a dry cleaning solvent and item is dry cleaned The resin is cured 3-7 days before laundering

Durable-press Silk: Since silk wrinkles easily when wet, poly carboxylic acid is used to produce durable press or wrinkle resistant silk. This finish is durable to launderings but looses 20 % loss of strength, increase in stiffness and decrease in whiteness.

Requirements: 1. No iron or easy to iron 2. Durable press performance 3. Dimensional stability 4. Soft and pleasant handle 5. High abrasion stability 6. Tear strength

Chemicals used: Urea Formaldehyde DMU-Dimethylol urea Melamine formaldehyde TMM Tri to hexamethylol melamine DHEU Di hydroxy ethylene urea DMDHEU- Di methylol ethylene urea

Mechanisms of easy-care and durable press finishing:

The primary cause of the shrinkage of cellulosic fibres is the fact that these fibres can readily absorb moisture. This absorbed moisture facilitates internal polymer chain movements in the amorphous fibre areas by lubrication. This disrupts the internal hydrogen bonding between these polymer chains. When a moisture laden cellulosic fibre is stressed, the internal polymer chains of the amorphous areas are free to move to relieve that stress. Hydrogen bonds can reform between the polymer chains in their shifted positions, in effect locking in the new configuration. With no restoring forces available, a newly formed wrinkle or crease will remain until additional processes (ironing for example) apply adequate moisture and mechanical forces to overcome the internal forces.

The new arrangement of the cellulose molecules in the swollen form of the fibre is fixed by newly formed hydrogen bonds between adjacent cellulose molecules, mostly in the amorphous fibre area. Therefore the uneven and wrinkled appearance of the cellulose fabric remains after drying, in contrast to fabrics made of non swelling synthetic fibres. Two different chemical approaches have been used commercially to produce non-swelling or durable press cellulose fabrics. The original approach is the incorporation of a polymerised finish in the pores of the fibres, so that water molecules cannot easily penetrate the fibre. The newer approach is the reaction of multifunctional crosslinking agents with the hydroxyl groups of adjacent cellulose molecules that hinder the swelling of the cellulose fibre.

Mechanism of creating Durable Press

Care: Wash items frequently because resins have a strong Affinity for oil and grease Pre treat stains, collars and cuffs. Use spot removal agent on grease spots Keep wash loads small to minimize wrinkling Avoid setting in wrinkles with heat Keep washing temperature cool Remove items promptly when dry

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