Interlining


Interlining is a very important in apparel manufacturing. Interlining is one
kind of accessories that is used between the two layers of fabric in a garment.

 To keep the different component or part of apparel in a desired shape, a kind of

fabric is used between the two ply of fabric by sewing or fusing is called
interlining.

 Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible. It is made cotton, nylon,
polyester, wool and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its
properties i.e. shrink resist finish, crease resist finish.
PURPOSE AND USE
 These aims can be separated into three separate groups.

（1）TO MAKE Sewing Easier and To Increase Production

●Because of the speed of industrial sewing machines the material must

be in perfect shape before sewing so that the machine operator does not

have to try to reshape the piece before or during the sewing time.If.

before sewing ,interlining is fused onto the material,it keeps it shape,

therefore saving time and labour.

（2）Retaining Shape and Improving Materials Appearance

 ●The use of interlining helps the garment material 's appearance

while at the same time retaining the garments shape.

With the development of interlinings and better Fusing press
machines, the permanent fusing process was Developed.
With this process, garments keep their shape no matter how
often they are worn or washed
（3）Making a Functional, Lasting ,Easy to Wear Product
 Using the Permanent press technique, everyone from the
producers and designers to the consumers is satisfied. The
people in production find the garments easier to sew, the
clothing designers can achieve shape and long term
performance, while the consumers get a good quality product
that is easy to care for, looks good and is easy to wear.
The basic aim of pressing is to make the garment look better for
longer periods of time. While still being comfortable.
Interlining reduces the occurrence of stretching, creasing and
wear.
FUNCTIONS OF INTERLINING:
 To support the garment.

 To control the shape of the garment.

 To control the area of the apparel.

 To reinforce the components of the garment.

 To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.

 To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the fabric.

 To improve garment performance.

 Uses of Interlinings: Interlining is generally used in collar, cuffs, waist

band, front facing of coat, outerwear plackets, jackets, blazers etc.

TYPES OF INTERLINING
 There are mainly two types of interlining are as follows:
 Sewn interlining or non-fusible interlining.
 Fusible interlining
DIVISION OF FUSING:-Permanent Fusing and Temporary Fusing

 Interlining can be divided into 2 groups temporary and permanent.

 The purpose of temporary fusing is to make sewing easier and to reinforce the
stitching. The fusing intensity does not need to be strong as it is merely to
prevent puckering during stitching.

 Permanent fusing is used when the shape and style of the garment intact.
Therefore after washing and long periods of use, the interlining must stay fused.
If the fusing temperature, pressure and timing are not correctly set, the intensity
of the fusing will differ. Before fusing, the type of material and interlining being
used and the desired intensity of the bond must be considered.
(a) Permanent fusing must stay fused after washing or dry cleaning.
(b) Temporary fusing is simply to make sewing easier and can become separated
after the garment is completed.
NON FUSIBLE INTERLINING
 The interlining which is used between two layers of fabrics
directly by sewing without heat and pressure is called non-fuse
interlining.

 This type of interlining is also called sewn interlining or non-

fusible interlining.

 For the preparation of sewn interlining a piece of fabric is treated

with starch and allowed to dry and finally sewn with main fabric.
Non fuse interlining is used for special case.

The application field is given below:

 Non-fuse interlining use in “Flame Retardant”

apparel.

 It is used for making apparel for fire service people.

 Specially used in embroidery machine.

Advantages of Non-fusible Interlining:

 To make flame retardant garments.

 Simple and easy technique.
 No elaborate machine is required.
 Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly heated
industry.

Disadvantages of Non-fusible Interlining:

 Quality is not good.
 Not suitable for large production.
 More time required.
 High work load & labor cost.
 FUSIBLE INTERLINING:

 It is most used interlining. The interlining which is

used between two layers of fabrics by applying heat
and pressure for a certain time is called Fusible
Interlining.
 Fusible interlining is used for all kinds of apparel.

 Also it is used in “Ready to wear” and “Bespoke

garment”. It is very popular.
Advantages of Fusible Interlining: To
get similarities among the apparel. Interlining gives
the same outlook of the apparel.
 Application process is very easy.
 It has high productivity.
 Fusing time is less.
 It is cheap.
 Performance is very good.
Disadvantages of Fusible Interlining:
 High temperature is required.
 Special care is needed during attaching interlining.
 TYPES OF FUSIBLE INTERLINING:
On the basis of resin coating and its properties fusible
interlining can be classified as follows:
 Polyethylene coated interlining
 Polyamide coated interlining
 PVC coated interlining
 Polyester coated interlining
 Polypropylene coated interlining
 PVA coated interlining
Polyethylene Coated
Interlining:
 Polyethylene is used as
resin coating.
 The effect of varying the
density of the resin is to
give a greater resistance to
dry cleaning solvents and a
higher softening point with
increasing density.
 This type of interlining is
used in collar, cuff of shirt.
 The fabric attached with
this type of interlining can
be washed in water.
Polyamide Coated Interlining:
 Polyamide is used as resin
coating.
 Poly-amides are very
widely used in dry
cleanable garments.
 High temperature fusing
is done for the garments,
which are washed with
water at 60ºc.
PVC Coated Interlining:

 Poly vinyl chloride is

used as resin coating
 This type is suitable for
both dry cleanable and
washable garments.
 PVC coated interlining
is widely used for
making the coat type
garments.
Polyester Coated Interlining:
 Polyester is used as resin coating
 Polyester resins are used in dry
cleanable and washable garments
because polyester is less water
absorbent than polyamide.
 It can be used as in all types of
garments
 This is called ideal interlining
 Available in market but costly in
price
Polypropylene Coated Interlining
 Polypropylene coated
interlining. The resin is
similar to the properties
of polyethylene coated
interning
 Comparatively high
temperature fusing is
done.
 The fabric attached with
this interlining can be
washed with water
PVA Coated Interlining
 PVA coated interlining. Poly vinyl acetate is used

as resin coating

 PVA coated interlining is not dry cleanable and it

has limited wash ability

 Low temperature and pressure is required.

Basically it is used between the leather and fur

materials.

 The resin is normally in the form of a continuous

plasticized coating on the base fabric.

 This type is rarely used in garments industry

 SELECTING & USING SUPPORTIVE FABRICS
 LININGS, UNDERLININGS & INTERLININGS
Lining
 LINING -- a separate, but attached, supportive or inner
garment fabric or fabric construction which conceals or covers
the insidegarment construction.
 Garments may be fully or only partially lined; completely or
partially attached to the fashion garment.
 A lining eliminates the need for time-consuming seam finishes
and reduces "wear and tear" on the inside garment
construction.
 It will lengthen the life and durability of a garment.
 A lining provides some body and support to a garment, but it
never takes the place of interfacing.
 It often makes the garment easier to wear over other
clothing—as in a jacket or coat; it can eliminate the need for
some under garmentssuch as a slip--as in a dress or skirt.
Fabric Selection

 There are a multitude of fabrics suitable for use as a

lining. The deciding factors include:
 1) type of fashion fabric (weight, fiber content/method
of care, hand or "feel," personal likes and dislikes)
 2) type and style of garment
 3) type of lining--partial or complete; and how the
lining will be attached
 Fabrics may be woven or knit; they should be able to "give"
and recover as necessary to accommodate body movement.
 The lining fabric should be durable, opaque, colorfast to
perspiration and body oils and the same care method as the
fashion fabric.
 Lining should match or harmonize in color with the fashion
fabric, and have a smooth surface texture to permit the
garment to be taken on and off the body easily.
 It is important that the lining be the same weight (a
lightweight polyester or microfiber jacket or dress) or lighter
weight (wool slacks or suit) and softer than the fashion
fabric so that it does not dominate the garment.
 Lining fabric should be preshrunk before using following
the same procedure you plan to use for the finished
garment.
Purchasing Tips

 Pay very close attention to fiber content and fabric

weave as they provide some very important clues to
lining durability.
 If garment is to be worn close to the body--i.e. dress--
be sure lining is absorbent or "breathable." This often
eliminates some synthetic linings made of polyester,
nylon, etc.
 Rayons, rayon/acetate blends or cotton may be more
comfortable. Purchase or invest in the highest quality
lining available
UNDERLINING
 UNDERLINING -- a supportive or inner garment fabric which "backs," or is attached to,
each major garment piece (jacket front, jacket back, sleeve, etc.).

 The underlining and fashion fabric function together as one piece throughout the
construction process. The entire garment or only parts of the garment may be underlined
depending on the garment design, fashion fabric and the chief function of the
underlining. Underlining can give support and shape, prevent sagging and stretching, add
crease resistance, provide evenness of color when the fashion fabric is not opaque or
firmly woven, and help create certain fashion detail effects.

 It is not designed to take the place of interfacing. A combination of underlining and lining
maybe used in a garment. Underlining should be preshrunk. Use the same grain as
corresponding garment pieces unless a separate pattern is included.
Fabric Selection:
 The weight of the underlining is usually lighter, but
compatible to the fashion fabric.
 Underlining and the fashion fabric must be
compatible in terms of care. Examples of underlinings
include voile, organza, lightweight polyester/cotton
blends, silk, muslin, lightweight percales, batiste,
fusible tricot, and some commercial lining fabrics.
 Underlining should be preshrunk before using.
INTERLINING
 INTERLINING --- a separate layer of fabric or fabric construction between the
lining and the fashion fabric used for many purposes. Interlining is usually cut
by the same pattern as the lining.

 In the case of foam, fleece or felt-type fabric which adds some bulk, lining
would need to be cut some larger to accommodate interlining. Interlining does
not take the place of interfacing.

 Fabric Selection: Some lining fabrics are backed with or come with interlining
substances: a metallic reflective finish, backed with wool, quilted, or napped-
backed lining fabrics, etc. Bulk often becomes a serious consideration; "warmth
without weight" is another. Interlinings must be compatible with all other fabrics
in the garment in terms of care.