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OPTIMIZATION OF THE COMFORT OF
COMPRESSION SPORTS BRAS

LIANG RUIXIN

PhD

The Hong Kong Polytechnic University

2020
THE HONG KONG POLYTECHNIC UNIVERSITY

INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES AND CLOTHING

OPTIMIZATION OF THE COMFORT OF


COMPRESSION SPORTS BRAS

LIANG RUIXIN

A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for

the degree of Doctor of Philosophy

January 2020
CERTIFICATE OF ORIGINALITY

I hereby declare that this thesis is my own work and that, to the best of
my knowledge and belief, it reproduces no material previously published or written,
nor material that has been accepted for the award of any other degree or
diploma, except where due acknowledgment has been made in the text.

…………….…………………………………………. (Signed)

…………LIANG Ruixin…………………. (Name of Student)


ABSTRACT

Sports bra is an undergarment for women designed to provide extra support, control breast

movement and provide protection to the breasts during exercises. Comfortable and functional

sports bras are the strong needs and essentials for women, especially for physically active

women. However, there is limited literature to develop efficient, valid and reliable computer-

aided method to simulate the contact conditions between females and sports bras; and there is

limited literature to combine numerical simulation and comfort pressure evaluation to

determine an optimal material parameter of sports bra fabrics. Systematic studies on this area

are needed to provide design considerations for intimate apparel industry and arouse attention

to women’s health.

Therefore, the key aim of this study was to establish and validate a new scientific method to

combine finite element (FE) modelling and subjective perception of comfort pressure to

determine the optimum pressure and fabric parameters for the comfort of sports bras. The

specific objectives were to build appropriate FE models of female bodies and sports bras to

simulate pressure distribution on body exerted by a sports bra, and to determine the range of

comfort pressure wearing a sports bra, then to identify the optimum material parameter of

sports bra fabrics for optimum pressure comfort.

This study consists of four parts to achieve these objectives. The first one is building an

accurate FE model of female body, which has a rigid torso, hyperelastic breasts, and

subcutaneous tissues. The coefficients of the Mooney-Rivlin material, which describe the

female breasts, are determined by examining the differences between the FE-modelled results

and experimental data. The second is developing the FE contact model of a female body and

sports bra to calculate the static and dynamic contact pressure and dynamic displacement of
the breasts. The contact model is developed by a new method called ’first shrink then expand’

and validated by motion capturing experiment. The calculated root mean square errors are less

than 1%, which shows a good agreement between the FE results and experimental data. The

third is determining comfort pressure range by subjective questionnaire about comfortable

sensation and objective pressure tests. The pressure feelings are analysed not only in static

condition (standing or sitting) but also in dynamic condition (running). The optimum contact

pressures on the shoulders, underarm and at the bottom of the bra cup are 2.08 ±0.82 kPa, 2.66

± 0.83 kPa and 0.58 ± 0.57 kPa respectively based on the results of Chapter 5. The fourth

objective is making prediction of contact conditions using finite element (FE) and machine

learning (ML) approaches. FE results are used to provide the database for the ML model. A

comparison between the results obtained from the FE and ML methods shows a good

agreement between the two methods. The effect of different sports bra components on the

contact pressures is investigated through the results of ML model, which is that the shoulder

strap and bra cup can greatly influence the contact pressure, while the back panel and elastic

bra band do not have much influence the contact pressure.

This study provides a robust computational method to optimize the design of sports bras. This

method can also potentially be applied to solve the contact problem between relatively rigid

and hyperelastic materials, or other problems in the area of comfort, elastic materials, intimate

apparel and sports activities. The optimization of sports bra can address a common need and

contribute to the wellbeing of women globally.


PUBLICATIONS ARISING FROM THE THESIS

Journal articles

1. Liang, R., Yip, J., Yu, W., Chen, L., & Lau, N. M. (2019). Numerical simulation of

nonlinear material behaviour: Application to sports bra design. Materials & Design,

108177.

2. Liang, R., Yip, J., Yu, W., Chen, L., & Lau, N. M. Computational modelling

methods for sports bra-human interactions. International Journal of Clothing

Science and Technology.

3. Liang, R., Yip, J., Yu, W., Chen, L., & Lau, N. M. Finite element-based machine

learning method to predict breast displacement during running. AATCC Journal of

Research, Under review

Conference presentation and publications

1. Liang, R., Yip, J., Yu, W., Chen, L., & Lau, N. M. (2018). Evaluation of stress

distribution of the body exerted by compression sports bra using Finite-element

body and sports bra sub-models. The 91st Textile Institute World Conference 2018.

2. Liang, R., Yip, J., Yu, W., Chen, L., & Lau, N. M. (2019). Finite element-based

machine learning method to predict breast displacement during running. The 2nd

Artificial Intelligence on Fashion and Textile International Conference 2019.


ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to take this opportunity to deliver my deep and sincere gratitude to my

chief supervisor, Dr. Joanne Yip, for her invaluable academic advice, professional

guidance, extraordinary patience and consistent encouragement throughout my PhD

study. I greatly appreciate for guiding me to learn a systematic research methodology

and develop logic modes of thought. With her great help of providing me with precious

suggestion and inspiration of new ideas, I have the confidence to face all of the

problems and have conducted a series of research studies to finish this thesis in the past

three years. These helps will be valuable to my future study and work.

Besides, I am extremely grateful for my co-supervisor, Prof. Winnie Yu, for her kind

guidance, constructive suggestions, warm help, inspiring comments, as well as

interesting discussions throughout the whole PhD study period. Without her help, I

would have never had the chance to study at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University.

I would also like to express my special thanks to my co-supervisor, Dr. Lihua Chen, for

her professional comments and guidance for the research methodology.

I would like to acknowledge my sincere gratitude to my co-supervisor, Dr. Newman

Lau, for his encouragement and the help to the experiments during my study.

I would like to acknowledge the Hong Kong Research Grant Council (RGC) for funding

this research [PolyU 152510/16E] and also thank the Institute of Textile and Clothing

(ITC) at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University for providing me with excellent

research conditions and environment during the last three years.


I would like to give my most grateful appreciation to Dr. Yue Sun, Ms. Shichen Zhang,

Mr. Wanzhong Jiao and Dr. Yiqing Cai for their support and professional suggestions.

Finally, I would like to give my special thanks to my parents, Mr. Zejun Liang and Ms.

Cuilan Wang, and my families for their spiritual encouragement and loving support

during my study.
TABLE OF CONTENTS

page

Chapter 1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 1

1.1 Research background ................................................................................... 1

1.2 Statement problem ............................................................................................ 6

1.3 Research objectives........................................................................................... 7

1.4 Project originality and significance .................................................................. 8

1.5 Research methodology ...................................................................................... 8

1.6 Outline of thesis .............................................................................................. 10

1.7 Limitation of study.......................................................................................... 12

Chapter 2 Literature Review ........................................................................................ 15

2.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................... 15

2.2 Biomechanical properties of breasts ............................................................... 15

2.2.1 Anatomy of breasts ............................................................................... 15

2.2.2 Experimental techniques to characterize breast tissues ........................ 17

2.2.3 Material properties of breasts................................................................ 20

2.3 Sports bra ........................................................................................................ 22

2.3.1 Types of sports bras............................................................................... 24

2.3.2 Effects of sports bras ............................................................................. 27

2.3.3 Pressure exerted by a sports bra ............................................................ 33

2.3.4 Pressure comfort evaluation .................................................................. 36

2.4 Finite element model of breasts ...................................................................... 37

2.5 Interactions between body and garment ......................................................... 39


2.6 Machine learning approach ............................................................................. 43

2.7 Motion capture experiment ............................................................................. 45

2.7.1 Motion capture equipment .................................................................... 45

2.7.2 Studied points........................................................................................ 47

2.7.3 Reference system .................................................................................. 48

2.8 Conclusions ..................................................................................................... 50

Chapter 3 Development of finite element model of body............................................ 53

3.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................... 53

3.2 Subject-specific FE model of body obtained by 3D laser scanning ............... 54

3.2.1 Subjects ................................................................................................. 54

3.2.2 3D laser scanning .................................................................................. 57

3.3 Motion capturing............................................................................................. 59

3.4 Finite element model....................................................................................... 64

3.4.1 Geometric modelling ............................................................................ 64

3.4.2 Mesh creation ........................................................................................ 65

3.4.3 Coefficients of Mooney-Rivlin material ............................................... 68

3.4.4 Damping ratio ....................................................................................... 73

3.5 Conclusions ..................................................................................................... 79

Chapter 4 Development of finite element contact model ............................................ 81

4.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................... 81

4.2 Experimental work .......................................................................................... 82

4.2.1 Tensile strength test of sports bra components ..................................... 83


4.2.2 Contact pressure test ............................................................................. 84

4.3 Finite element contact model .......................................................................... 86

4.3.1 Sports bra model ................................................................................... 86

4.3.2 Loading and boundary conditions ......................................................... 88

4.4 Contact pressure .............................................................................................. 92

4.4.1 Static contact pressure........................................................................... 92

4.4.2 Dynamic contact pressure ..................................................................... 95

4.5 Dynamic breast displacement with sports bra ................................................ 96

4.6 Modal analysis .............................................................................................. 100

4.7 Conclusions ................................................................................................... 103

Chapter 5 Determining pressure comfort range ......................................................... 104

5.1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 104

5.2 Experimental work ........................................................................................ 105

5.2.1 Subjects ............................................................................................... 105

5.2.2 Experiment .......................................................................................... 107

5.3 Results and discussion .................................................................................. 111

5.4 Conclusions ................................................................................................... 121

Chapter 6 Prediction of contact pressure and dynamic displacement during running

.................................................................................................................................... 123

6.1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 123

6.2 Finite element-based machine learning approach to predict contact pressure

............................................................................................................................. 123
6.2.1 Dataset generation............................................................................... 124

6.2.2 ANN structure ..................................................................................... 127

6.2.3 Validation ............................................................................................ 134

6.3 Finite element models of different subjects .................................................. 138

6.4 Conclusions ................................................................................................... 147

Chapter 7 Conclusions and Recommendations for future work ................................ 149

7.1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 149

7.2 Development of finite element models ......................................................... 149

7.3 Comfort pressure evaluation of sports bra .................................................... 150

7.4 Prediction of contact pressures between the sports bra and female body ..... 151

7.5 Limitations and future work.......................................................................... 152


LIST OF FIGURES

page

Figure 1.1 Compression sports bra ................................................................................ 1

Figure 1.2 Encapsulation sports bra ............................................................................... 1

Figure 1.3 Process of creating an individual-specific breast model. ............................. 4

Figure 1.4 Research framework ................................................................................... 10

Figure 1.5 Outline of thesis .......................................................................................... 12

Figure 2.1 Anatomy of breast....................................................................................... 17

Figure 2.2 Principle of elastography ............................................................................ 18

Figure 2.3 Breast tissue modulus measurement system............................................... 20

Figure 2.4 Two main types of sports bras .................................................................... 25

Figure 2.5 Combination sports bra............................................................................... 26

Figure 2.6 Structure of a sports bra .............................................................................. 27

Figure 2.7 Back design of sports bras: (a) cross-over; (b) racer-back; (c) vertical centre;

(d) straight back; and (e) U-back ................................................................................. 27

Figure 2.8 Measurement system of clothing pressure ................................................. 34

Figure 2.9 Different types of pressure sensors............................................................. 35

Figure 2.10 Measured pressure points ......................................................................... 36

Figure 2.11 Testing principles of KES ......................................................................... 40

Figure 2.12 Garment pressure distribution .................................................................. 41

Figure 2.13 Reverse mapping of garment pressure distribution onto paper pattern .... 41
Figure 2.14 FE model of female body and bra ............................................................ 43

Figure 2.15 Markers to measure breast motion ........................................................... 47

Figure 2.16 Marker positions to measure breast motion.............................................. 48

Figure 2.17 Reference body landmarks ....................................................................... 49

Figure 3.1 Marker positions for defining boundaries of breast ................................... 57

Figure 3.2 3D body scanning of braless subject .......................................................... 59

Figure 3.3 Digital camera for motion capture .............................................................. 60

Figure 3.4 Floor plan of motion capture experiment ................................................... 60

Figure 3.5 Position of markers on breasts - 1: sternum; 3: right nipple; 8: left nipple;

and 2, 4, 5, and 6 are placed 4 cm away from 3 and 8 ................................................. 61

Figure 3.6 T-shaped wand used with retro-reflective markers ..................................... 63

Figure 3.7. Free vibration of breast .............................................................................. 63

Figure 3.8 Initial geometric model............................................................................... 65

Figure 3.9 Element 157 ................................................................................................ 66

Figure 3.10 Mesh of model of body............................................................................. 66

Figure 3.11 Steps of dynamic analysis......................................................................... 70

Figure 3.12 Dynamic displacements of breasts: experiment vs. FEM ........................ 72

Figure 3.13 Time vs. displacement of breasts .............................................................. 74

Figure 3.14 Time-displacement curves of braless condition and calculated damping

ratios............................................................................................................................. 76

Figure 3.15 Experimental curve of free vibration for S13 ........................................... 77

Figure 3.16 Magnified experimental curve .................................................................. 79


Figure 4.1 Sports bra samples ...................................................................................... 83

Figure 4.2 Stretching of sports bra ............................................................................... 84

Figure 4.3 Instron 4411 ................................................................................................ 84

Figure 4.4 Pressure test positions................................................................................. 85

Figure 4.5 Element 138 ................................................................................................ 86

Figure 4.6 FE model of compression sports bra .......................................................... 87

Figure 4.7 Boundary conditions of contact model ....................................................... 90

Figure 4.8 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 1 and S01 ........................... 93

Figure 4.9 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 2 and S01 ........................... 93

Figure 4.10 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 3 and S01 ......................... 93

Figure 4.11 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 4 and S01.......................... 94

Figure 4.12 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 5 and S01 ......................... 94

Figure 4.13 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two

speeds of running: Bra 1 .............................................................................................. 97

Figure 4.14 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two

speeds of running: Bra 2 .............................................................................................. 97

Figure 4.15 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two

speeds of running: Bra 3 .............................................................................................. 98

Figure 4.16 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two

speeds of running: Bra 4 .............................................................................................. 98

Figure 4.17 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two

speeds of running: Bra 5 .............................................................................................. 99


Figure 4.18 First mode shape ..................................................................................... 102

Figure 5.1 Questionnaire on perceived comfort sensation......................................... 109

Figure 5.2 Experimental procedure............................................................................ 110

Figure 5.3 Testing contact pressure of different bra components on body ................ 111

Figure 6.1 Regression process of Bayesian regularization algorithm........................ 128

Figure 6.2 Performance of Bayesian regularization algorithm .................................. 129

Figure 6.3 Regression process of Scaled conjugate gradient algorithm .................... 131

Figure 6.4 Performance of Scaled conjugate gradient algorithm .............................. 131

Figure 6.5 Regression process of Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm .......................... 133

Figure 6.6 Performance of Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm..................................... 134

Figure 6.7 ANNs structure ......................................................................................... 134

Figure 6.8 Effects of fabric of sports bra components with different elastic moduli. 138

Figure 6.9 Distribution of contact pressure of different subjects ............................... 140

Figure 6.10 Change in contact pressure with increase in elastic modulus of bra strap12

Figure 6.11 Change in contact pressure with increase in elastic modulus of bra cup

.................................................................................................................................... 144
LIST OF TABLES

page

Table 2.1 Summary of Young’s modulus values of breast tissues ............................... 21

Table 2.2 Properties of fabrics used for sports bras ..................................................... 23

Table 2.3 Important fiber properties in standard climate (22 ℃, r.h. =65%) .............. 24

Table 2.4 Summary of studies on effects of sports bras............................................... 28

Table 2.5 Reference body landmarks ........................................................................... 50

Table 3.1 Demographics and body measurements of subjects .................................... 55

Table 3.2 Description of markers for defining boundaries of breast ........................... 58

Table 3.3 Results of different mesh sizes ..................................................................... 67

Table 3.4 Material coefficients..................................................................................... 70

Table 3.5 RMSEs of different material coefficients..................................................... 72

Table 3.6 Material coefficients of different subjects and RMSEs ............................... 73

Table 4.1 Measured points ........................................................................................... 85

Table 4.2 Material properties of sports bra components .............................................. 87

Table 4.3 Comparison of numerically and experimentally obtained contact pressure 94

Table 4.4 RMSE percentage of simulated breast displacement ................................... 99

Table 4.5 Frequencies of breast motion during running ............................................ 101

Table 4.6 Natural frequencies with and without a sports bra ..................................... 101

Table 5.1 Subject information .................................................................................... 106

Table 5.2 Mean scores and contact pressures ............................................................ 112

Table 5.3 Correlation coefficients among overall score, scores for perceived pressure of
different parts of bra, and contact pressure values ..................................................... 112

Table 5.4 ANOVA table of influence of contact pressure on scores of perceived

pressures in static condition ....................................................................................... 114

Table 5.5 ANOVA table of influence of contact pressure on scores of perceived

pressures in dynamic condition .................................................................................. 117

Table 5.6 No. of conditions in three groups ............................................................... 121

Table 5.7 Mean pressure values ................................................................................. 121

Table 6.1 Finite element parameters and results ........................................................ 125

Table 6.2 RMSE between FE and ANN results ......................................................... 135

Table 6.3 Number of meshes of FE model of different subjects................................ 139

Table 6.4 Simulated contact pressure of different subjects ........................................ 141

Table 6.5 Correlation coefficients between contact pressure and subject particulars 142

Table 6.6 Increase in contact pressure with higher elastic modulus of bra strap and bra

cup .............................................................................................................................. 145


ABBREVIATIONS

AI Artificial intelligence

ANOVA Analysis of variance

ANNs Artificial neural networks

BI Inner-breast

BL Left nipple

BO Outer-breast

BR Right nipple

CCDs Charge-coupled devices

CT Computed tomography

FAST Fabric assurance by simple testing

FE Finite element

FEA Finite element analysis


K

KES Kawabata evaluation systems

ML Machine learning

MR Magnetic resonance

MRE Magnetic resonance elastography

MRI Magnetic resonance imaging

OCTE Optical coherence tomographic elastography

RTE Real-time ultrasound elastography

SWMs Support vector machines

RMSE Root mean square error

2D Two-dimensional

3D Three-dimensional
Chapter 1 Introduction

1.1 Research Background

Physically active women are often invariably frustrated in their attempts to find a comfortable

and supportive sports bra, and it is even more critical for plus-size women. A sports bra is an

undergarment for women designed to provide extra support, minimize breast movement and

provide protection to the breasts during sporting activities (Niemczyk, Arnold, & Wang, 2017).

There are normally two kinds of sports bras, which are compression and encapsulation sports

bras. The former are designed to press the breasts against the chest wall, and similar in

appearance to a short vest (Figure 1.1). The latter are designed to support the breasts

individually, and similar in appearance to daily wear bras (as shown in Figure 1.2) (Yu et al.,

2014). Generally, compression sports bras offer less support than encapsulation sports bras, so

they are more suitable for smaller breast women. However, White, Scurr and Smith (2009)

concluded that there is no significant difference between these two kinds of sports bras in their

ability to limit breast movement.

Figure 1.1 Compression sports bra Figure 1.2 Encapsulation sports bra

Breast tissues or ligaments very easily move on the chest wall during physical activities when

a woman is merely walking slowly, because the breasts have no substantial anatomical support

such as bones or muscles. Movement can therefore cause injury to the breasts and tissues that

surround them due to the stress and internal forces. In order to limit the amount of breast

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movement during sports, wearing a sports bra can enhance the comfort of the breasts during

exercise. However, if the sports bra exerts excessive pressure onto the breasts, the result would

be wear discomfort. An inappropriate sports bra design may also have physical and

physiological effects on the body.

The aim of this study is to use the nonlinear finite element analysis (FEA) to predict the

optimum level of comfort in compression sports bras. Using an FEA to find the optimum design

parameters has already been widely done so in the engineering domain, such as to examine the

load of reinforced concrete beams (Ngo & Scordelis, 1967), viscoelastic behaviour of car tire

materials (Nandi et al., 2014), ocean circulation problems (Fix, 1975), stress and strain inside

heel pads (Luo et al., 2011), and design of therapeutic footwear (Spirka et al., 2014). However,

it is very challenging to analyse the comfort level of sports bras because the interactions

between the fabric which is elastic and the breasts which are viscoelastic are complex. It is

difficult to measure and quantify breast viscoelasticity, the interaction between human skin and

garment, and the nonlinear mechanical behavior of the breasts during static and dynamic

loading; therefore, it becomes a difficult task to construct a biomechanical interaction model.

Furthermore, the other difficulties involved are the large variations in breast size and shape

between different individuals. Finally, sports bras usually have at least two layers of different

fabrics for support, but women have different sensations towards pressure and comfort so there

is currently no scientific means of determining the minimum amount of pressure that can

provide the necessary support to the breasts.

Existing finite element (FE) models of the breasts have used published data, or derived the

mechanical properties of the breasts by carrying out indentation tests with ultrasound on a small

area of the breast. The results are then validated through comparisons with ex vivo data. (Lu et

al., 2009) It has also been noted that the Young’s modulus values are higher than the actual

values in the indentation tests due to the breast viscoelasticity. For simplicity, the material

-2-
properties of the human body are assumed to be the average value of the material properties of

the fat and glands. Therefore, it is obvious that constructing a more accurate FE model by using

the respective material properties of important structures such as the glands, ligaments and

pectoral muscles could improve the accuracy of the modelling. Rajagopal et al. (2008) provided

a new modelling framework for mapping tissue locations across medical images, such as

mammograms, and magnetic resonance and ultrasound images. However, this method is too

expensive when a large number of experiments need to be done.

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Figure 1.3 Process of creating an individual-specific breast model. (a) Segmentation of tissue

boundaries from a magnetic resonance (MR) image. Light spots represent the skin surface,

and dark spots represent the muscle surface. (b) Dataset of skin (light spots), and muscle

(dark spots) after segmenting an entire MR image set. (c) Generic finite element breast

geometry and breast skin and muscle datasets. (d) Finite element model fitted to skin and

muscle surface data. (e) Fitted model without surface rendering to show the volumes of the

fitted elements. (Rajagopal et al., 2008)

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As for bra fit, research work that uses FEA to examine the mechanical interaction between

sports bras and the human body is still in its infancy. The available studies mostly use a rigid

body, which makes it easier to carry out calculations. For instance, Ishimaru et al. (2011)

developed a numerical-analysis-based technique to simulate clothing pressure on a rigid

mannequin. FEA is also widely used in the biomechanical field. For example, Dai et al. (2006)

developed an FE model to simulate foot-sock-insole contact. However, the human foot has

more bones and joints than the breasts, which means that it is more rigid and incompressible.

If a rigid model is also used for the breasts, the result would not be reliable. Li, Zhang and

Yeung (2003) built an FE model of the female body, which consists of breasts with elasticity

and a rigid body. However, they estimated the material properties of the body from published

data in the literature and the breast density from the weight and volume of the breasts. Moreover,

their single-material and single-layer bra structure are overly simplified because commercial

compression sports bras mostly have two layers of material and elastic bra bands.

Scientific analyses of the pressure comfort range while wearing sports bras have been seriously

lacking. While skin pressure can be measured by using a pressure sensor for a single point, the

evaluation of the pressure distribution is not possible and the measured pressure values of the

breasts with soft tissues are not precise because they may be less than a practical measurable

range. According to previous research, the maximum pressure tolerated by a human being,

which will not cause health problems, is 3.920 kPa (Wang et al., 2006). Kobayashi et al. (2011)

stated that clothing pressure should be as low as possible. However, the pressure on the breasts

while wearing a sports bra must be high enough to support the breasts in order to limit

movement.

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In this study, a nonlinear FEA is proposed to predict the optimum level of comfort of

compression sports bras and the focus is the optimization of the fabric properties of the sports

bras. To achieve this aim, a new scientific and reliable system that uses FE simulation will be

developed and validated to determine the optimum pressure and the fabric properties for the

comfort of compression sports bras. In order to build a realistic model of the female body, the

compression modulus and damping coefficients of the breasts will be measured through a

breast vibration analysis. The results from the FEA show a good agreement with the

experimental results.

1.2 Statement Problem

Compression sports bras compress the breasts against the chest wall to limit their movement

during physical activity, which has very important impacts on health because the compression

could lead to pain. There are also other problems with sports bra designs that influence the

effect and comfort of bra wear for women.

1) Designing conventional bras is a time-consuming process and prone to human errors.

Sports bra designs involve many steps in a long process, such as developing the design

prototype, making the pattern, selecting the fabric, and carrying out fitting. Improper

construction methods and/or use of fabric in any of the bra design procedures may fail to satisfy

the requirements of a good sports bra. In addition, this process highly depends on the

experience and expertise of the designer, who has to fully understand the relationship between

the sports bra features and feelings of the wearer.

2) There is uncertainty of the material parameters of the breast and breast boundaries.

Previous studies have suggested that it is critical to build authentic FE models of the human

body, which can be done by capturing images of the body with a 3D laser scanner. Mooney-

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Rivlin material models are considered to be appropriate for describing the material properties

of the breasts. However, it is still uncertain whether the breast boundaries are well established

enough to build a geometric model and further work is therefore required to measure the

nonlinear hyperelastic parameters of the different types of breast tissues.

3) It is challenging to simulate the contact between the body and sports bra.

The interaction between the elastic fabrics used in sports bra and breast viscoelasticity is highly

complex. Moreover, computational simulation of the contact between the body and sports bra

usually have penetration and stress concentration problems. Therefore, the few previous studies

that have done work in this area have unrealistically modelled bras only as a single-layer

garment imposed onto a rigid body model or arbitrarily-defined breasts with soft tissues.

4)There is a challenge for objective quantification of comfort in bra wearing.

How to quantify the feeling of comfort while wearing a sports bra is a question for this kind of

study. The common solution is using a questionnaire to let the subject score his/her feeling.

Questions and analysis method need to be well designed.

1.3 Research Objectives

This project aims to use a nonlinear FEA to predict the optimum level of comfort for

compression sports bras. The specific objectives of the work in this thesis are summarized as

follows.

1. To develop FE sub-models of the various breast shapes by using in-vivo material properties;

2. To design and develop an FE sub-model of a sports bra based on the design specifications

and directly measured fabric properties;

3. To simulate the stress distribution on the body exerted by a sports bra with different fabrics

based on a sample of women;

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4. To determine the range of the pressure comfort values of sports bras made of different fabrics;

and

5. To predict the contact pressures between sports bra and body, and also identify the optimum

fabric elastic modulus for optimum pressure comfort.

1.4 Project Originality and Significance

This study systemically investigates the mechanical properties of breasts and builds FE models

of the female body and sports bras. The FE contact model used to simulate the distribution of

contact pressure between the body and a sports bra, and breast movement due to dynamic

conditions when a sports bra worn, is found to have good accuracy. A machine learning (ML)

model of the contact pressure has been established. This successful endeavour provides a more

efficient, accurate and robust strategy for solving not only the complex problems of body-bra

interactions but also other design applications where the properties of the materials are highly

nonlinear and viscoelastic. This method can potentially provide the basis for future research

work on apparel comfort, elastic materials, intimate apparel and sports activities. Improved

sports bra designs will also contribute to the wellbeing of the female population globally.

1.5 Research Methodology

To realize the aim and objectives, this study follows a research framework and uses the

research methodologies that are discussed below.

This study involves both experimental work and computer modelling, in which five tasks are

carried out. Task 1 is building the sub-models of the body. To do so, three-dimensional (3D)

laser scanning experiments of solicited female subjects who participate on a voluntary basis

are first carried out. Then, the scanned images are computationally processed, such as

smoothing and removing the irrelevant parts, to obtain subject-specific geometric models.

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Following that, motion capturing is carried out (experimental component) to record the

movement of braless breasts during running and when subjected to vibration. The material

properties of these breasts are then analysed based on the motion capture data.

Task 2 is building the sub-model of the sports bra. First, a geometric model of the sports bra is

extracted from a gravity-free model of the body of a female subject with different

configurations of the components found in a commercial compression sports bra. The

compression sports bra has a high neckline to limit the amount of upward movement of the

breasts, and wide shoulder straps to distribute the pressure over the shoulders to the large back

panel of the bra. The mechanical properties of the sports bra fabrics are also tested by using an

Instron 4411 tester at a constant-rate-of-extension.

Task 3 is simulating the pressure distribution over the body when the sports bra is worn. After

the FE models of the body and sports bra are obtained in Tasks 1 and 2, FE contact models are

then built and calculated to achieve Task 3. To avoid the penetration problem in the contact

models, a new method is used in which the model of the object of interest is first reduced and

then expanded (hereinafter ‘first reduce, then expand’) to successfully simulate the contact

conditions. This method will be explained in more detail in the coming chapters. An FE-based

ML approach is also used to build a prediction model of the contact pressure between the body

and sports bra, which can further enhance the efficiency of the modelling.

Task 4 is determining the range of the pressure comfort. In order to achieve Task 4, the female

subjects are requested to complete a questionnaire on their perceived comfort during the wear

trials for both the static and dynamic conditions. Systematic and scientific analyses of their

ratings would then be carried out.

Task 5 is identifying the optimal elastic modulus of the sports bra fabrics, which means

determining the elastic modulus value of the fabric which provides the optimum amount of

-9-
contact pressure between the sports bra and body. The use of the numerical contact models

obtained in Task 3 and pressure comfort range obtained in Task 4 would determine the

optimum performance of the sports bra with the least amount of pressure exerted onto the body.

To enhance efficiency, FE based machine learning method can be used to predict contact

pressures between sports bra and body.

A flow chart of the five tasks and the research framework are illustrated in Figure 1.4.

Figure 1.4 Research framework

1.6 Outline of thesis

There is a total of seven chapters in this thesis. Chapter 1 discusses the background information,

problem statement, objectives, project originality and significance and outline of this study.

Chapter 2 is the literature review and presents the current literature on the biomechanical

properties of breasts. Then, an analysis of the functions, types and features of existing sports

bras are presented. Following this, there is a systematic review of the methods and findings of

- 10 -
previous experiments and computer simulations of human bodies and contact problems. The

knowledge gaps are presented which provide the basis of the research objectives and methods

of this study.

Chapter 3 describes how to build an accurate FE model of female body. The FE body models

consist of a rigid torso, a layer of soft subcutaneous tissues, and two hyperelastic breasts. Two

experiments are required. The first one is 3D laser scanning to obtain the subject-specific

geometric models. The second experiment is motion capturing to record the movement of the

subjects and, then, determine the material properties of the breasts. This chapter is the

foundation of the whole study.

Chapter 4 presents the method of developing FE contact model between the female body and

sports bra. A new method called ‘first shrink then expand’ is used to avoid penetration problem.

The body model is first shrunk and a gap between the body model and sports bra model is made.

Secondly, the body model expands to contact with the sports bra model and the distribution of

contact pressures can be analysed. This FE contact model is verified by dynamic breast’s

displacements when a sports bra is donned with contact pressure. The error between the

experimental and FE results is acceptable. To further enhance the function of sports bras, modal

analysis in bra and braless conditions is made.

Chapter 5 reports how to determine the comfort pressure range of wearing a sports bra. The

method combines the objective pressure tests and subjective comfort assessment. Moreover,

the comparison between static and dynamic conditions is made. The findings of this chapter

can be used as guidance of compression sports bra design.

Chapter 6 presents the FE contact models of different female subjects and their results are

compared. Furthermore, a machine learning approach is used to investigate the contact

conditions between the body and sports bra to raise efficiency. The accuracy of the established

- 11 -
machine learning model is validated by comparing with FE results. Then, the effect of each

sports bra component on contact pressures is easily investigated and, thus, provide design

considerations for sports bra.

Chapter 7 concludes the work and provides recommendations for future work and studies.

A flowchart of the thesis chapters is shown in Figure 1.5.

Figure 1.5 Outline of thesis

1.7 Limitation of study

As with all studies, this study also has its limitations, including a focus on the methods to

predict the contact conditions between sports bras and the wearer. Moreover, only fifteen

- 12 -
subjects participated in the experimental component which is a rather smaller sample size. The

study only considers a sports bra; both the FE and ML models are based on the same

compression sports bra which has a vest-style. Hence, the results can only be applied to this

type of sports bra. However, encapsulation style sports bras are also popular in the market.

Therefore, future works should also consider other types of sports bras.

Breasts have a very complex structure and different types of tissues. However, detailed FE

models of the breasts make very little difference to the contact conditions between the sports

bras and the body. In addition, it is very time-consuming to build FE models. Hence, it is

assumed in the study that the breast is a homogeneous object made of soft matter with elastic

damping properties.

As for the experiments, breast motion with a sports bra donned is recorded through tracking

markers placed on the sports bra, and not on the surface of the breasts. Although the bra is

fitted well onto the female subject before the experiment takes place, there still may be slight

relative movements from the breasts and the bra during running. However, the working

principle of these passive markers is to reflect the infrared rays back to the cameras, so that the

markers cannot be placed on the surface of the breasts as they will be covered by the bra.

- 13 -
Chapter 2 Literature Review

2.1 Introduction

This chapter is the literature review, which aims to identify key publications that are relevant

to this study. The chapter includes studies on biomechanical models of breasts, breast

kinematics, sports bra designs, and the interaction between the human body and garments. First,

the anatomy of the breasts and evaluation of the function and comfort levels when wearing a

sports bra are reviewed. Then, previous studies on FE models of the breasts are systematically

reviewed. Also, interaction between the human body and garment are referenced. Finally,

research studies on the effect of sports bra design on sports activities with the use of motion

capture are reviewed.

2.2 Biomechanical properties of breasts

2.2.1 Anatomy of breasts

The breasts are essential for producing and secreting milk for newborn babies, so they are an

important organ for women. The breasts are a subcutaneous gland located on the anterior chest

wall and usually extend from the level of the second rib to that of the sixth rib. The breasts

consist of layers of two types of tissues: adipose and glandular tissues (Drake, Vogl & Mitchell,

2009). One-third of the breasts is fatty tissue and the amount can vary significantly between

individuals due to the age and nutritional status. The superficial layer of the breasts (fascia) is

separated from the skin by 0.5 to 2.5 cm of subcutaneous fat (Genfen & Dilmoney, 2007). The

other two-thirds is glandular tissue, which supports lactation. A female adult breast contains

15 to 20 lobules and ducts with diameters that range from 2 to 4.5 mm, which converge at the

nipple (Azar, Metaxas & Schnall, 2000).

15
There are no muscles in the breasts. Cooper’s ligaments support the breasts and keep them in

position. The breasts can be firmly attached to the skin because of these ligaments. Cooper’s

ligaments extend from the fascia layer outwards to the skin in many directions, which look like

tentacle in appearance. The mechanical properties of the Cooper’s ligaments have only been

approximated in previous studies (Genfen & Dilmoney, 2007). The anatomy of a female breast

is shown in Figure 2.1.

Glandular tissue is affected by estrogen. As women age towards menopause, their estrogen

levels begin to decline. Therefore, glandular tissue atrophies and eventually disappears (Azar,

Metaxas & Schnall, 2000). The superficial fascia, suspensory ligaments and skin take the

responsibility of supporting the breasts and will also change in the level of fibrous tissue with

time due to gravity load. These changes will have effects on the biomechanical properties of

the breasts. For example, stretching of the Cooper’s ligaments and reductions in the coupling

between the breasts and the surrounding tissues can be found with increasing age. Breast cancer,

which comprises about 25% of all types of cancer in women, can also affect the elasticity of

the breasts (Stewart & Wild, 2014; Ramião et al., 2016). Research work on the biomechanical

properties of the breasts therefore play an important role in the early detection of breast cancer.

16
Figure 2.1 Anatomy of breast (Ellis & Mahadevan, 2013)

2.2.2 Experimental techniques to characterize breast tissue

This section discusses the studies that have carried out experiments on the material properties

of the breast tissues. The experimental techniques are usually divided into two types: in vivo

and ex vivo techniques. The former test the entire breast by using relatively small loads to avoid

injuring or damaging the breast. The latter test tissues that are removed from the breasts. Using

ex vivo extracted tissues allows tests or measurements to be carried out that would otherwise

not be possible or ethical in living female subjects.

Elastography scanning is the most commonly used in vivo technique in most studies.

Elastography scanning is a non-invasive imaging technique usually used to detect tumours,

which was developed in the late 1980s (Lerner, 1987; Lerner et al., 1988). There are various

methods of carrying out elastography scans, including mammography, indentation testing,

magnetic resonance elastography (MRE), ultrasound, computed tomography (CT), optical

17
coherence tomographic elastography (OCTE) and real-time ultrasound elastography (RTE)

(Venkatesh & Ehman, 2014). The basic theory behind elastography scanning is measuring the

deformation of breast tissue by applying a very minimal amount of pressure onto the surface

of the body, which is shown in Figure 2.2 (Shiina, 2013). As elastography scanning can

measure the response of the breast tissues to applied pressure, the technique can be used to

analyse the mechanical properties of the breast tissues. On the other hand, elastography

scanning provides high levels of specificity and sensitivity so that it can be used to detect breast

tumours and distinguish the tumours from healthy tissue (Wilson, Robinson & Dadd, 2000).

Palpation is another method for detecting breast tumours in clinical examinations. However,

this technique mostly depends on the experience of the doctor and is only useful for finding

large tumours (Ramião et al., 2016).

Figure 2.2 Principle of elastography (Shiina, 2013)

18
Ex vivo methods of examining breast tissue require the tissue to be tested in a very short amount

of time after removal from the body (Samani & Plewes, 2007). Samani et al. (2007) developed

a computer-controlled loading system to measure the elastic modulus of normal breast tissue

and breast tumour slices, which is shown in Figure 2.3. Matsumura et al. (2009) and Umemoto

et al. (2014) provided a measurement system for breast tissues which consists of a materials

testing machine (INSTRON 3342) and 10-N load cells with a φ3 mm cylindrical indenter and

computer for analytical use. As for the experiment samples, both studies used 5-mm slices from

a surgically removed specimen immediately after segmental resectioning.

19
Figure 2.3 Breast tissue modulus measurement system (a) Schematic of the block shape

tissue indentation apparatus, (b) photo of the block shape tissue indentation apparatus, (c)

schematic of the tissue slice indentation apparatus and (d) photo of the tissue slice indentation

apparatus (Samani et al., 2007)

2.2.3 Material properties of breasts

This section reviews several studies on the biomechanical properties of breast tissues. The

female breasts are viscoelastic, anisotropic, and inhomogeneous with nonlinear behaviour. The

20
breasts can experience large deformations because they are not physically constrained and the

breast tissues have low stiffness (Fung & Cowin, 1994). However, many studies have assumed

that the breasts are linear and homogeneous elastic for simplification purposes (Samani et al.,

2003; Van Hounten et al., 2003; Umemoto et al., 2014). There have only been a few studies

done to test the nonlinear properties of the breasts. For instance, Krouskop et al. (1988)

investigated the mechanical behaviour of 142 breast tissue samples under compression loading.

However, they did not attempt to characterize the nonlinear parameters. Samani and Plewes

(2004) developed a system to measure the nonlinear hyperelastic parameters of soft tissues by

examining their force-displacement response via an inversion technique that uses a nonlinear

FE model. The results showed that the elastic modulus of the breast tissues widely range from

0.5 to 50 kPa. However, this system can only measure the properties of small block shaped

specimens of the breasts. Table 2.1 summarizes the Young’s modulus values of the breast

tissues based on nine studies in the literature.

The serious lack of studies on nonlinear hyperelastic parameters of different types of breast

tissues means that further work is required to measure the material parameters to develop a

database that can be used in the FE simulation of breast displacement.

Table 2.1 Summary of Young’s modulus values of breast tissues

Young’s modulus (kPa)


Source
Fatty tissue Glandular tissue

Samani et al. (2001) 3.25 3.24

McKnight et al. (2002) 3.3 7.5

Van Houten et al. (2003) 1 to 20 2 to 37

Samani et al. (2003) 1.8 1.9

21
Xydeas et al. (2005) 1.2 1.2

Matsumura et al. (2009) 0.7 to 17.3 0.8 to 15.4

Srivastava et al. (2011) 4.17

Umemoto et al. (2014) 0.69 to 19.08 0.73 to 16.99

Breast density is one of the most influential factors on breast health. However, it is difficult to

precisely measure breast density in vivo; therefore, breast density of young women remains

highly unknown (Dorgan et al., 2012). Breast density varies widely because of the different

percentage of constituent fat and tissue in each individual and also due to age. McGhee et al.

(2013) determined the breast mass by directly measuring the volume and multiplying the

volume by using a breast density coefficient in order to evaluate the influence of breast mass

on vertical breast displacement. Vandeweyer and Hertens (2002) calculated the average density

of breast fat and glandular tissue is 0.50 × 103 kg·m-3 and 1.06 × 103 kg·m-3, respectively.

2.3 Sports bra

A good sports bra should provide adequate support and also limit breast movement both

vertically and laterally relative to the body through an underwire or a strong elastic strap

(Haycock, Shierman & Gillette, 1978). Runner Lisa Lindahl and costume designer Polly Smith

in the US succeeded in creating the first sports bra by sewing two jockstraps together in the

late 1970s (Shea, 2017) which originated from the frustration felt by Lisa by the inadequacy of

her daily wear bra for jogging. This first sports bra reduced breast motion whilst running

(Schuster, 1979). Fabric that was subsequently used for sports bras greatly affected the effect

and effectiveness of support to limit breast motion (Page & Steele, 1999). In the last 40 years,

technology in women’s intimate apparel has developed rapidly with the development of

advanced materials, such as Lycra, elastane and Coolmax® (Bowles, Steele & Munro, 2012).

22
These relatively new materials are light in weight with high strength, and their specific

properties are shown in Table 2.2 and 2.3 in contrast to cotton.

Table 2.2 Properties of fabrics used for sports bras (Yu & Zhou, 2016)

Fiber
Property
Cotton Coolmax Spandex(Lycra) Polyamide(Nylon) Polyester

Elasticity Low High High High High

Stretch
Low High High High High
ability

Recovery Low High High High High

Strength High High Low High High

Comfort High High High Low Low

Table 2.3 Important fiber properties in standard climate (22 ℃, r.h. =65%) (Shishoo, R. ed.,

2005)

Fiber

Polyester
Properties Spandex Polyamide
Cotton (Polyethylenete
(Lycra) (Nylon)
rephthalate)

Density
1.50-1.54 1.1-1.3 1.14 1.36-1.41
(g/cm3)

23
Break

elongation 6-10 400-700 15-60 25-55

(%)

Tensile

strength 20-50 5-70 35-90 25-95

(cN/tex)

Initial

modulus

(cross- 45-90 0.006-0.012 0.6-6 3.4-21

section)

(GPa)

2.3.1 Types of sports bras

There are mainly two kinds of sports bras: compression and encapsulation sports bras. The

latter are designed to support each breast separately, which is more effective for larger breast

women (see Figure 2.4a). The former are designed to flatten the breasts to provide support

(Figure 2.4b). Zhou et al. (2009) investigated the shock absorption performance of 4 types of

sports bras by evaluating the reduced percentage of controlled breast displacement and

provided various suggestions on designing sports bras. They claimed that a higher percentage

of polyamide, and higher bra neckline and wider shoulder straps could help to reduce breast

motion. While White et al. (2009) found no significant differences in breast displacement

between the two kinds of sports bras, McGhee, Steele and Munro (2010) found that greater

compression of compression sports bras can provide significantly increased breast and bra

comfort compared to standard encapsulation sports bras during physical activity for larger

24
breast women. However, the study by White et al. (2009) only examined one encapsulation

sports bra and one compression sports bra. To determine the effect of a sports bra, a variety of

different factors should be examined, and not only the type of sports bra.

(a) Encapsulation sports bra (b) Compression sports bra

Figure 2.4 Two main types of sports bras (Yu & Zhou, 2016)

Currently, there are also combination sports bras in the market (see Figure 2.5) which

incorporate the characteristics of both the compression and encapsulation sports bras. This bra

design is more effective because it combines the advantages of both bras. In addition, mode

specific sports bras, such as sports bras for ball game, have become popular in the last few

years.

25
Figure 2.5 Combination sports bra (Recreational Equipment, Inc. 2019)

To design a sports bra, the components needed are the bra cups, shoulder straps, back wing,

underband, etc.; see Figure 2.6. There are two kinds of bra cups in sports bras: traditional cup-

and-sewn and molded foam cups. The latter are assumed to provide better support for the

breasts than the former (Wu et al., 2012). The shoulder strap design also affects the comfort

and function of a sports bra. They are supposed to hold the bra in place. However, wearers

sometimes tighten the straps so that there is more support of their breasts, which may exert a

high amount of pressure onto their shoulders and cause discomfort (Bowles & Steele, 2013).

Therefore, it is essential to use a well-designed shoulder strap for a good sports bra. Another

cause of discomfort is slipping of the shoulder straps. This problem can be prevented by a good

bra back design. There are primarily five types of bra back designs in the market (see Figure

2.7), including cross-over; racer-back; vertical centre; straight back; and U-back. Among them,

the cross-over, racer-back and vertical centre designs can prevent the shoulder straps from

slipping off the shoulders. The bra underband supports most of the breast weight so it is mostly

made of strong elastic material. The underband should fit the wearer well because an overly

loose underband means that the straps will have to support more of the breast weight, which

causes discomfort. An overly tight underband will induce excessive amounts of pressure onto

the wearer (McGhee, 2008).

26
Figure 2.6 Structure of a sports bra (Yu & Zhou, 2016)

Figure 2.7 Back design of sports bras: (a) cross-over; (b) racer-back; (c) vertical centre; (d)

straight back; and (e) U-back (Yu & Zhou, 2016)

2.3.2 Effects of sports bras

Breast motion can cause more serious health problems for larger breast women. The

effectiveness of reducing their breast motion and discomfort range from wearing an everyday

t-shirt and daily wear bras to supportive sports bras, which has been widely studied in terms of

breast displacement, breast velocity and breast acceleration. This section reviews the literature

on the effects of sports bras during physical activities. Table 2.4 provides the details on some

of the studies in this area. Note however, that the studies that are reviewed in this section focus

on younger women.

27
Table 2.4 Summary of studies on effects of sports bras

Source No. of Age Bra size Bra style Equipment Activity

subjects (years

old)

Lorentzn 59 18 to 60 A to D Eight 16 mm Jumping

and types of Photo-

Lawson, sports sonics

1987 bras action

master

camera

Mason et 3 17 to 21 B and C Sports Two Running

al., 1999 bra, Photo- at 7 and

fashion sonics 10 km/h;

bra, crop biomech- Jumping

top anics 500,

16 mm

cine

cameras

Starr et 6 23 to 37 C to DD Three Video Running

al., 2005 types of camera

sports

bras

28
Mats- 2 22 A and C Sports Two video Jumping

jmoto, bra, cameras

2006 adhesive

bra, daily

bra,

strapless

bra

McGhee 16 19 to 43 C to J Crop top Camcor- Running

and der at 10

Steele, MV600i km/h

2007 digital

video

camera,

Poolcam

video

camera

White et 8 24.8 ± 6.4 D Daily Five Running

al., 2009 wear bra, ProReflex at 10.08

sports infrared km/h

bras cameras

Scut et 15 24 ± 4.8 D Daily Five 100- Running

al., 2009 wear bra, Hz at 5.04

sports bra ProReflex and

infrared 10.08

cameras km/h

29
Scurr et 15 25.1 ± 4.8 D Daily Eight 200- Running

al., 2009 wear bra, Hz Oqus at 10.08

sports bra infrared km/h

cameras

McGhee 20 31± 8 C to F Sports Two Opto- Running

et al., bra, TRAK at 8.3±

2010 experi- 3020 1.3 km/h

ment bra, position

placebo sensors

bra

White et 6 24.8 ± 7.3 D Everyday Five Running

al., 2011 bra and ProReflex at 3.1

sports infrared m/s

bras cameras

Zhou et 11 24 to 40 B to D Sports bra Vicon Running

al., 2012 motion at 7 km/h

analysis

system

Jang et 6 20 B and C Sports Vicon Running

al., 2013 bras motion at 4, 7,

capture and 10

systems km/h

McGhee 15 19 to 44 D+ Sports Two Opto- Running

et al., bra, TRAK at 8-9

2013 3020 km/h

30
fashion Position

bra Sensors

Jamkrajn 30 22.3± 2.7 B and C Sports Eight Running

g, & bras opto- at 3, 6,

Limroonn electronic and 9

greungrat cameras km/h

, 2014

Coltman 23 22.3 ± 2.6 D to E Encap- Optotrak Running

et al., sulation Certus® at

2015 sports bra motion 9.1 ± 0.3

capture km/h

system

Chen et 21 24±2.5 B Sports bra Running

al., 2016 at 5, 7.5,

and 10

km/h

Nolte et 17 22.4±2.9 B and C Sports Qualisys Running

al., 2016 bra, Motion and

partici- Capture jumping

pant’s Analysis

own bra hardware

Arch et 6 26±7 n/a Sports bra 13-camera Running

al., 2018 motion at 6

analysis miles per

system

31
hour (9.7

km/h)

Scurr, White and Hedger (2011) reported the effectiveness of sports bras in reducing the

amplitude of breast displacement during walking and running, and the direction of the breast

displacement is not affected. Scurr, White and Hedger (2010) also examined vertical breast

displacement, velocity, and acceleration with the female subjects running at 2.8 m·s-1 without

a bra, and wearing an everyday bra and a sports bra. They found that breast velocity has the

strongest relationship with comfort. Hence, the improvement of sports bra designs may need

to consider reductions in breast velocity. These studies are all based on observations during

short durations of running on a treadmill. Scurr, White and Hedger (2011) compared breast

support requirements during overground and treadmill running and suggested that the findings

on breast motion during treadmill running are also applicable to overground running.

Nowadays, sports bras are produced with different styles which are designed based on customer

demand, such as nursing sports bras and yoga bras. However, little attention has been paid in

the literature on the effectiveness of sports bras during other kinds of exercise activities.

According to previous studies, sports bras can effectively reduce breast motion and they

recommend that such bras should be worn during physical activities. The prevalence of sports

bra wear among women has been examined by many scholars. For instance, Bowles, Steele

and Munro (2008) surveyed 413 Australian women between 20 and 35 years old on their habits

of sports bra usage. The results indicated less than half of the participants would choose a sports

bras during physical activity and the larger breast women are more than twice as likely to wear

sports bras in comparison to the smaller breast women. McGhee, Steele and Munro (2010)

conducted a survey with physically active adolescent females between 14 and 18 years old and

found that only 13% wear a sports bras while exercising. The reason for the lack of wear could

32
be the discomfort. Lawson and Lorentzen (1990) compared seven sports bras on quantitative

and subjective measures of support and comfort with 59 female subjects during jogging. The

completed questionnaires indicated that the most functional sports bra which can effectively

limit breast motion also tends to be the most uncomfortable one. Bowles, Steele and Munro,

(2012) also found the main features of commercial sports bras that causes discomfort are the

shoulder straps slipping or cutting into the shoulders, and the perceived tightness of the sports

bra around the chest. Although their research only involved Australian women, it is still a

valuable reference for designing sports bras. Further studies are required to improve the

shoulder strap designs of sports bra without affecting the ability of the bra to reduce breast

motion or impeding athletic performance.

2.3.3 Pressure exerted by a sports bra

Pressure is a critical element of this study. The perceived comfort when wearing a sports bra

is associated with the pressure exerted onto the body. The importance of the pressure comfort

of bras is a concern in the field of apparel because bras have direct contact with the skin which

is sensitive. However, only a few studies have actually investigated the pressure comfort of

bras on the breasts (Okabe & Kurokawa, 2004).

The predominant measurement devices to measure pressure values are air-pack pressure

sensors and electrical pressure sensors. Wang, Chen and Lin (2009) used an AMI-3037-5S air-

pack type contact surface pressure measuring system as shown in Figure 2.8. The AMI-3037-

5S has an air sac with a thickness of about 2 mm, sensing parts to induce pressure, voltage

amplifier to process signals, and sensor to output the voltage signal. The precision of the device

is 0 to 14 ± 0.1 kPa and 14 to 34 ± 0.25 kPa (Liu et al., 2013).

33
Figure 2.8 Measurement system of clothing pressure (Wang, Chen & Lin, 2009)

An example of a commercially available electrical pressure sensing system is FlexiForce.

FlexiForce sensors are ultra-thin (0.008 inch) and constructed of a two layer substrate of

polyester/polyamide films. Another common pressure measurement system is the Novel

Pliance system, which is composed of pressure sensors (shown in Figures 2.9a and 2.9b), a

multi-channel analyzer, calibration device and computer software. This system can measure

different points on human skin because of the different sized sensors. Moreover, the elasticity

of the sensors can ensure consistency around contoured areas on the body without wrinkling

(Yu et al., 2014).

34
a. Single sensors b. 2×2 matrix sensor

Figure 2.9 Different types of pressure sensors

The tested points for pressure measurements significantly vary in the literature. Wang, Chen

and Lin (2009) tested four points along the right side of a bra underwire to determine the

pressure values of bra underwires. Morooka et al. (2005) proposed seven points of

measurement, which include the underwire directly inferior to the nipple, front side panel,

bottom of the bra band inferior to the front panel, point of intersection of the bottom of the bra

band and side seam, cross point between the underbust and scapulae lines, back of the wing,

and shoulder straps. Zheng, Yu and Fan (2009) followed Morooka et al. (2005) to select 11

points for a pressure evaluation of the body, which are shown in Figure 2.10.

35
Figure 2.10 Measured pressure points (Zheng, Yu & Fan, 2009)

2.3.4 Pressure comfort evaluation

It is important to investigate the relationship between comfort and clothing pressure to

design effective sports bras. While sports bras can effectively reduce breast displacement

through pressure, an appropriate amount of pressure would provide higher perceived comfort,

a secure feeling and greater support. However, excessive skin pressure may cause discomfort

to the wearer (Yu, 2011)

The range of pressure which is acceptable to wearers has been investigated in previous studies.

Denton (1972) found that the pressure comfort range of a garment is 1.96 to 3.92 kPa and

would differ on different areas of the body. Costantakos and Watkins (1982) found a clear

relationship between clothing pressure and wearer comfort, in which a greater amount of

pressure would result in a rating of lower perceived comfort. They provided the basis to see

how different combined features affect both pressure and comfort. However, they only focused

on the relative perceived comfort with two bras, which would not be able to provide a real

range of pressure comfort values.

Coltman, McGhee and Steele (2015) related the rated discomfort of bras that have different

types of shoulder straps to the pressure exerted onto the shoulders. They found that the cross-

36
back bra, which induces a pressure of 4.9 kPa, can lead to the discomfort score of 2.1 (the

condition that caused the most discomfort and the maximum score for discomfort was 10).

However, there is no significant relationship between discomfort and pressure due to the

inaccuracy of the pressure sensor and multiple influential factors. Gho, Steele and Munro (2008)

found a correlation between bra discomfort and bra pressure. They showed that the bra that

exerted the highest amount of pressure (2.2 N/cm²) can lead to the highest score for discomfort

(5), and the lowest pressure (<0.2 N/cm²) can lead to the lowest score for discomfort (<1).

Although correlation was found, they did not provide a pressure comfort range.

All of the discussed studies have neglected that while pressure causes discomfort, a certain

amount of pressure is necessary for support and a sense of security (Yu, 2011). The relationship

between bra comfort and bra pressure is not supposed to be a linear relationship. Instead, the

minimum pressure comfort might have a value over zero. Liu et al. (2017) used both subjective

fit tests and objective tension tests on bras of the same size and the same materials to conduct

an evaluation on the perceived comfort of the underband. The pressure comfort for a 75B bra

size was found to range from 2.0 – 2.7 kPa.

Liu, Wang and Hong (2017) provided numerically obtained data on clothing pressure which

could be applied to evaluate garment wear comfort. Compared with traditional measurement

methods, the virtual method of measuring clothing pressure is lower in cost, uses less time,

increases efficiency, easily accessible and higher in accuracy.

2.4 Finite element model of breasts

FE methods have been widely used to predict the amount of breast displacement in different

conditions for various applications. Azar, Metaxas and Schnall (2002) developed a deformable

FE model of the breasts based on magnetic resonance (MR) data to predict the position of

37
tumours during the procedure. The use of MR data can reduce calibration errors and ensure

registration quality (Zhang et al., 2007). However, magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) is

relatively expensive and not always necessary. Del Palomar et al. (2008) used X-ray computed

tomography (CT) imaging, which also provides a clear image of the breast geometry, to extract

the fatty and fibroglandular tissue regions.

Some researchers assume that the breasts are a homogenous body and have modelled them

accordingly. Dufaye et al. (2013) presented a virtual deformable model of the breasts of a

female subject with the geometry constructed by using MR data. All of the constituents of the

model of the breasts were set to be quasi-incompressible, isotropic, hyperelastic, and

homogenous. The displacement of the breast surface was calculated by using FE modelling

under the effect of gravity and compared with manually measured displacements of identified

points marked on the skin and 3D scanned images in a standing position. However, their FE

model used linear material properties, which cannot simulate large deformations of the breasts.

Eder et al. (2014) compared 12 different material properties of an FE model of the breasts based

on the previous literature. The results of the FE calculations which were compared to the

corresponding real geometric measures of the breasts from 3D scanned images to determine

the accuracy of the FE simulation showed that the Neo-Hookean hyper-elastic models proposed

by Tanner et al. (2006) and Rajagopal et al. (2008) are the most appropriate models to describe

the viscoelastic behaviour of the breasts under gravity loading among the 12 FE models. The

study also indicated that the mechanical properties of the breast materials can remarkably affect

the simulation results.

Chen et al. (2013) built a 3D non-linear dynamic FE model to simulate the large displacement

of the breasts. The FE model, which uses a hyper-elastic neo-Hookean material, is composed

of a thorax with two breasts and three layers of skin with different mechanical properties

38
(density, Young’s modulus, Poisson’s ratio and shear modulus). They successfully predicted

breast displacement at three different natural frequencies with good accuracy. However, the

Young’s modulus was not validated and the boundary conditions for the walking and running

activities are not accurate due to arm movement.

2.5 Interactions between body and garment

Friction between a garment and human skin can lead to hot spots (warm reddened areas; Brueck,

2000). The adverse consequences of the interaction between a garment and skin could range

from a tickling feeling to the formation of rashes and blisters on the skin (Sulzberger et al.,

1966). Therefore, a more in-depth understanding and investigation of the interactions between

the body and garment under various conditions are very important for overall wellbeing.

It is important to accurately model not only the body but also the garment fabric when

addressing the interaction between the garment and body. Hence, a scientific investigation and

understanding of the fabric mechanical properties are essential in this study. The modelling of

fabrics and textiles by using FE modelling has been well established with the use of both

geometric and mechanical models (Glaessgen et al., 1996; Boisse et al., 1997; Tarfaoui &

Akesbi, 2001; Hamila et al., 2009; Liu, Koric & Kontsos, 2019). The first precise testing

technique of fabric mechanical properties is the Kawabata evaluation systems (KES), which

test the tensile, shear and bending properties, compressibility, and surface properties (i.e.

frictional coefficient). The testing principles are shown in Figure 2.11. Another testing

technique is the Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST), which is used to measure the

parameters that affect the quality of the fabric and the appearance of the garment (Hu, 2004).

After testing the mechanical properties of the fabric, they can be imported into FE software for

modelling (Tarfaoui & Akesbi, 2001).

39
Figure 2.11 Testing principles of KES (Hu, 2004)

As the aim in this study is to model the physical interaction between a garment and the human

body, it is important to accurately define deformation with computer efficiency (Delingette,

1998). Calculation of the clothing pressure of a human body model with the use of the FE

method has been studied since the 1990s but with shortcomings. For instance, Niwaya, Imaoka

and Shibuya (1996) developed an FE technique to estimate the garment pressure distribution

and reversely mapped this distribution onto a paper pattern (see Figure 2.12 and 2.13) in order

to show the preferred modification. However, this technique did not involve a model that

calculates the pressure of a tightly fitting garment that comes into contact with the body.

40
Figure 2.12 Garment pressure distribution (Niwaya, Imaoka & Shibuya, 1996)

Figure 2.13 Reverse mapping of garment pressure distribution onto paper pattern (Niwaya,

Imaoka & Shibuya, 1996)

Since the human body varies in rigidity depending on the part of the body, the widely-used

simplified methods in the literature presuppose that the garment is worn by a mannequin.

Ishimaru et al. (2011) modelled the human body as a rigid body without taking into account

the deformations of the human body. They proposed a two-step method to fit a garment onto

41
the body by placing the fabric in contact with an intermediary, followed by removal of the

intermediary and placing the fabric in contact with the human body model. This calculation of

clothing pressure is a good example for reference purposes. However, the model is too simple

and the use of a rigid body is not accurate enough to determine the deformation and pressure

from the interaction between the body and garment.

Liu et al. (2007) used a simplified leg model which included soft tissues and bones and a 3D

stock model to investigate the mechanical interaction between the leg and stocking. They

applied an automated surface-to-surface contact option. The developed model showed a good

agreement with reasonable pressure ranges in a comparison with tested pressure values, which

can be a reference for this study. Lin et al. (2011) developed an FE model of a male leg and a

sportswear garment to predict the interface contact pressure distribution. The material

properties were considered to be the same for the leg model, which was 20 kPa for the Young’s

modulus and 1.03 mg/mm3 for the Poisson’s ratio. However, this leg model is oversimplified

and cannot realistically represent the male leg. Xing et al. (2006) provided an FE model on

interactions between the skin and clothing sleeve during arm rotation. The forearm model was

idealized as a cylindrical shape and the entire FE model consisted of a fabric sleeve, skin,

muscle, and bone which approximate the actual structure. However, the arm and leg structures

are very different from the breasts which are composed of skin, fat and glandular tissue.

There are studies that have investigated the interaction between the human body and a sports

bra by using FE analysis. For instance Li, Zhang and Yeung (2003) presented a 3D

biomechanical model of a female body and a bra (shown in Figure 2.14) to determine the effects

of the bra on the dynamic deformation of the breasts while the subject was walking at a constant

speed. Only the breast is elastic and the other parts are rigid, which is not true in real life

situations. They also did not consider gravity, which means that there is no initial stress of the

bra in their model. Bel-Brunon et al. (2014) studied the influence of a sports bra on the stress

42
and strain of the breasts with an FE model by taking images of the breasts under water to model

a non-gravity configuration of the breasts. However, they used single-layer and single-material

bra models which cannot be used to evaluate the tested results of commercial bras as they have

at least two layers with different material properties.

Figure 2.14 FE model of female body and bra (Li, Zhang & Yeung, 2003)

2.6 Machine learning approach

The previous sections have reviewed many studies in the literature that use FE modelling to

describe the biomechanical behaviours of breasts and interactions between the breasts and bras

with great accuracy. However, building an FE model is very time consuming and usually

subject specific. This limits the practicality of using an FE model for product design. In

particular, traditional sports bra designs are very complex and prone to human error. Hence, an

ML approach is considered in this study.

ML has been studied since the late 1950s (Martens, 1959). It is considered to be artificial

intelligence (AI), which means that the computer (machine) has the ability to automatically

learn and extract an algorithm for the task, even though identifying the complete process may

not be possible (Alpaydin, 2009). The generally accepted definition of ML is: “A computer

43
program is said to learn from experience E with respect to some class of tasks T and

performance measure P, if its performance at tasks in T, as measured by P, improves with

experience E”. (Michalski, Carbonell & Mitchell, 1985) Currently, ML is used in a wide variety

of applications. (Mullainathan & Spiess, 2017; Bottou, Curtis & Nocedal, 2018; Atta et al.,

2019; Huang, Kwok & Zhou, 2019). Although this area does not have standardized

classifications, there are four classifications of ML algorithms that are mainly used: supervised,

unsupervised, semi-supervised, and reinforcement learning. In supervised learning (Kotsiantis,

2007; Zhang & Tsai, 2006), the computer is given a data set and already knows the correct

output, as the computer already understands that there is a relationship between the input and

output. Unsupervised learning (Celebi & Aydin, 2016) can be used to approach problems with

little or no idea of the results, and derive structure from data in which there is not necessarily

an understanding of the effect of the variables. Semi-supervised learning (Chapelle, Schölkopf

& Zien, 2006) is used when algorithms work with a given data set with missing information,

and there is still the need to learn from large amounts of received data. Finally, there is

reinforcement learning, which is used when learning is based on external feedback given either

by a thinking entity or the environment.

Today, there are countless ML algorithms in the literature and the number of ML algorithms is

still growing fast with the development of computer technology. Recently, ML approaches have

been proposed in the literature to build models that predict the biomechanical behaviors of

breasts, which are mainly used for breast cancer diagnoses. Kharya, Dubey and Soni (2013)

summarized dozens of academic papers on the diagnosis and prognosis of breast cancer by

using ML techniques. They provided the benefits and limitations of four ML approaches:

decision trees, artificial neural networks (ANNs), support vector machines (SWMs), and

Bayesian networks. ANNs are mostly used as a predictive technique that replicates human

thinking and often used in medical predictions as compared to decision trees which are a tool

44
that resembles a tree of the decision and all possible outcomes. SVMs are mainly used in

computational biology such as microarray data analysis, to transform data and categorize new

examples. Finally, Bayesian networks are suitable for carrying out predictions under uncertain

situations with incomplete data. Shan et al. (2016) also used four ML approaches which include

decision trees, ANNs, SVMs, and random forests to develop a computer-aided diagnosis

system for 283 ultrasound images of breasts. They compared the results and found that SVM

has the best performance. However, ML techniques have not been clinically applied, even

though the techniques have developed rapidly in recent years. This is mainly because of the

lack of standardization and requirement of large datasets (Reig et al., 2019). Therefore,

applications of ML techniques still need to be studied in greater depth.

2.7 Motion capture experiment

The aim of motion capture experiments is to record the movement of specific objects in a

concise and usable manner. To record the movement of breasts, female subjects need to wear

reflective markers to capture the motion by identifying the position or angle between markers.

Previous studies in the literature on breast motion are important because they have already (i)

evaluated the research methods and identified the problems of studying the dynamic movement

of breasts; (ii) compared breast displacement, velocities, accelerations and trajectories under

braless conditions and when a bra is donned to evaluate the effect of sports bras; and (iii)

determined future research directions for breast motion studies (Zhou, 2011).

2.7.1 Motion capture equipment

To record breast motion, it is convenient to use standard cameras because they are low in cost

and easily accessible. Haycock, Shierman and Gillette (1978) used a movie camera to shoot

45
images on 16 mm film and calculated breast motion through the images. Only one camera is

necessary to capture the two-dimensional (2D) Cartesian coordinates of the markers on the

subject. To acquire the 3D coordinates of the markers, Mason, Page and Fallon (1999) used

two 16 mm high speed cine cameras that filmed at 100 frames per second and 3D digitizers or

charge-coupled devices (CCDs). The cameras were placed 10 m directly to the front and the

left of the subject to shoot the frontal and side views of the breasts. An event indicator, which

could be activated each time that the right foot of the subject made contact with the treadmill,

was also set up on the side of the subject in order to acquire the rhythm of the stride. Video

cameras are also widely used. McGhee, Power and Steele (2007) placed a digital video camera

2.5 m directly in front of the subject to analyse exercise-induced vertical breast displacement.

Fuseya and Matsumoto (2006) obtained 3D vibration data of the breasts by using two video

cameras. McGhee and Steele (2010) used two position sensors positioned 3.6 m away from the

subject in the frontal and sagittal planes, which obtained 3D data on breast motion. Furthermore,

this motion capture system was already pre-configured and pre-calibrated, which reduced the

time needed to conduct the experiment. Starr et al. (2005) collected motion data by using video

cameras which were then stored and analyzed frame-by-frame by using the Peak Motus®

Motion Measurement System. With the advancement of motion capture technology, analysis

systems and software, such as Vicon and ProReflex, are user-friendly resources for processing

raw experimental data.

Breast displacement is studied by capturing the displacement found by using reflective circular

markers that are placed onto the body of subjects (Starr et al., 2005). These retro-reflective

markers are passive, and easily adhered onto the skin of subjects or surface of sports bras.

Haake and Scurr (2010) placed hemispherical retro-reflective markers with a 5-mm radius on

the right nipple of their subjects, as well as on the superior border of the manubrium of the

sternum, and the left and right anterior inferior aspects of the 10th ribs, which are shown in

46
Figure 2.15. However, McGhee and Steele (2010) used infrared light-emitting diodes with a 2-

mm diameter instead of reflective markers. The 3D coordinates of all of the diodes placed on

both nipples and other sarco-iliac joints of the subject were tracked by using two OptoTARAK

3020 position sensors positioned 2.6 m away from the subject in the frontal and sagittal planes.

Figure 2.15 Markers to measure breast motion (Haake & Scurr, 2010)

2.7.2 Studied points

Most studies in the literature have focused on the nipples (Zhou, Yu & Ng, 2011). However,

nipple movement is not accurate enough to represent breast motion because breasts have

complex structures which have viscous damping and hyper-elastic behaviours. Hence, Okabe

(2002) analysed 5 to 25 markers placed on the breasts. Moreover, Zhou, Yu and Ng (2012)

used four breast markers attached to the inner-breast (BI), outer-breast (BO), left nipple (BL)

and right nipple (BR) of the subject. The positions of the markers in their study are shown in

Figure 2.16.

47
Figure 2. 16 Marker positions to measure breast motion (BI: inner-breast , BO: outer-breast,

BL: left nipple and BR: right nipple) (Zhou, Yu & Ng, 2012)

2.7.3 Reference system

It is also important to define a reference object and determine the number and positions of body

reference markers to calculate the relative movement of the breasts. However, the optimal

number and location of the reference markers that would adequately represent the thorax

remain unclear (Zhou, Yu & Ng, 2012). According to Della Croce et al. (2005), human

movement analyses in principle can rely on any anatomical based reference frame. However,

the ideal reference frame should be based on easily identifiable and traceable landmarks (Conti

et al., 2008). Veeger et al. (2003) suggested bony landmarks above bony ridges, such as the

scapular spine or the humeral shaft, to compose the reference frame. McGhee, Power and Steele

(2007) only used one marker to determine the torso displacement. However, the motion of a

rigid body in 3D space is described by 6 degrees of freedom movements and rotations about

three perpendicular axes. Therefore, one landmark on the body of a subject cannot be used as

a proper reference system. Starr et al. (2005) added two more markers to describe torso

48
displacement. White, Scurr and Smith (2009) created a reference grid for markers placed on of

the left and right clavicles and anterior superior iliac spines. In addition, Scurr, White and

Hedger (2009) used four reference points to describe body motion more accurately. The body

landmarks which are used in 17 studies are shown in Figure 2.17 and listed in Table 2.5 (Zhou,

2011).

Figure 2.17 Reference body landmarks (Zhou, 2011)

49
Table 2.5 Reference body landmarks (Zhou, 2011)

Landmark Description of anatomical landmark

a Left clavicle center or clavicle directly superior to the nipple

b Lateral point of acromion processes

c Point on front arm

d Sternum, jugular, or suprasternal notch

e Sternal angle, or sternum at the 3rd rib level

f Lower sternum, or cross point of underbust line and body median

g Iliac crests

h Anterior superior iliac spines

i Anterior inferior aspects of the 10th rib

j Spinous process of the 12th thoracic vertebra

k 5th lumbar vertebra

Although these landmarks are easy identifiable, there is one limitation which is the lack of

accuracy. For example, the pelvis would rotate when the subject is running and the position of

the clavicle center would change when the arm is swinging, all of which would affect the

accuracy of the marker placed on that body part.

2.8 Conclusion

The literature review provided above reveals the following knowledge gaps:

1). The female breasts are viscoelastic, anisotropic, and inhomogeneous with nonlinear

behavior. However, to simplify the problem, the breasts are always assumed to be isotropic

50
and homogenous. The lack of studies on the nonlinear hyperelastic parameters of different

breast tissues is obvious, and the range of measured Young’s modulus values of the breasts

is still large, or from 0.5 to 50 kPa.

2) There are a lack of studies that evaluate the comfort of wearing a sports bra and its

effectiveness during different sports activities. There are different styles of sports bras,

which are designed based on customer demand. However, women have different perceived

comfort and pressure. It is therefore difficult to quantify the level of comfort. Previous

studies have mainly used experiments in which treadmill running is carried out, so

evaluations during other kinds of sporting activities should be investigated.

3) Existing FE body and garment models are not applicable to the real human body and

garments. This is a widely-used simplified method which presupposes that the garment is

donned onto a mannequin. However, a rigid body is not accurate enough for calculating the

deformation and pressure from the interaction between the body and garment. The human

body has subcutaneous adipose tissue which is not rigid, and these soft tissues can reduce

the contact pressure.

4) Gravity load has also been neglected by many researchers, which means there is no initial

pressure of the bras in their modelling.

5) The ML approach is widely used in many areas because it is efficient and accurate.

However, it is rarely used in intimate apparel production and design.

6) The FE models of single-layer and single-material bras in previous studies cannot be

used to evaluate the tested results of commercial bras as they have at least two layers with

different material properties.

Therefore, this study aims to develop a novel and valid method to investigate the nonlinear

material parameters of the breasts and model the contact conditions between the body and a
51
compression sports bra. With precise FE models, any kind of physical activity can be analyzed.

Answers to a questionnaire by subjects on the level of comfort of a sports bra are collected and

organized. Using both experimental work and computer modelling, this study intends to

provide useful information for future designs of sports bras.

52
Chapter 3 Development of finite element model of body

3.1 Introduction
The coupling of finite element (FE) modelling and practical experiments to build precise

numerical models has been widely done in the engineering disciplines to validate the

behaviours, relationships and properties of both living and non-living entities, such as beams

(Ghaffarianjam & Abolbashari, 2010), manufactured biomaterials (Simoneau et al., 2017),

human muscles (Wu et al., 2013) and bone structures (Jang & Kim, 2010). Recently,

advancements in computational modelling have extended FE modelling to the breasts, which

is commonly done in clinical or industry practices, such as detecting breast anomalies (Xi et

al., 2012; Jin, He & Liu, 2014), predicting breast displacement (Kuhlmann et al., 2013; Chen

at al., 2013), and assisting with breast surgery (Patete et al., 2013). However, the mechanical

behaviours of soft tissues, such as the breasts, are in fact more complex than most engineering

materials and structures because breasts have viscoelastic and anisotropic properties (Freutel

et al., 2014). Hence, it is a complex task to determine the material coefficients of breasts

because of their hyper-elasticity and non-linear behaviour.

In this study, two experiments have been conducted to build a precise subject-specific FE

model of the body. Geometric models of the bodies and breasts are constructed based on

experiments carried out with 3D laser scanning. Then, the effects of gravity are removed for

the initial state of the breasts by subjecting the model to an inverse gravity load. The dynamic

state of the free vibration of the breasts and running are recorded by motion capture to calculate

and validate the material coefficients of the breasts.

53
3.2 Subject-specific FE model of body obtained by 3D laser scanning
3.2.1 Subjects
Women with large and hypertrophic breasts face more difficulties because their breasts jiggle

and move, thus interfering with their ability to take part in daily and physical activities

(Coltman et al., 2019). In this study, fifteen female subjects are recruited on a voluntary basis

to obtain geometric models of the female body and breasts. The selection criteria are that they

have to be healthy, have not underwent any previous breast surgeries, and are not pregnant or

lactating. The youngest subject is 19 years old and the oldest subject is 60 years old. Their bra

cup size includes 32B (three subjects), 32C (three subjects), 34C (three subjects), 34D (three

subjects), 36C (one subject), 38C (one subject), and 38D (one subject). Their demographics

and body measurements are listed in Table 3.1. The subjects were informed about the purpose

of the study, and then had to give informed consent form before taking part in the experiment.

The experimental procedure was approved by the Human Ethics Committee of the Hong Kong

Polytechnic University (HSEARS20151207004).

54
Table 3.1 Demographics and body measurements of subjects

Horizontal cup line (cm) Breast root (cm) Cup size


Height Weight Full bust Under bust
Subject Age BMI (commercial
(cm) (kg) L R L R (cm) (cm)
bra)

S01 50 163.0 55.5 20.9 23.5 23.8 26.0 25.7 95.0 74.0 34D

S02 26 168.0 70.7 25.0 23.0 22.8 26.0 25.8 97.9 83.2 38C

S03 26 159.0 57.3 22.7 22.5 22.7 23.5 23.0 81.7 75.0 34C

S04 33 153.0 53.5 22.9 21.0 20.5 26.0 25.3 85.2 70.6 32C

S05 24 162.0 52.3 20.0 17.5 18.0 19.0 20.2 82.2 72.0 32B

S06 60 148.0 50.3 23 19.5 20.3 24.1 23.8 82.5 71.8 32C

S07 32 160.0 51.5 20.1 22.0 21.7 22.5 22.7 81.8 72.5 32B

S08 59 153.0 63.0 26.9 21.6 21.7 24.0 23.8 97.5 82.5 38D

S09 54 154.0 55.5 23.4 19.4 19.0 25.8 26.0 89.5 75.5 34C

S10 19 162.0 61.9 23.6 22.5 24.6 27.5 27.5 92.7 72.7 34D

S11 59 162.0 70.9 27.0 20.8 28.5 27.0 24.1 90.0 79.1 32C

S12 54 161.0 61.2 23.6 19.8 20.0 25.5 25.0 92.9 77.0 36C

55
S13 23 160.0 60 23.4 21.5 21.8 24.8 20.8 91.8 76.0 34D

S14 24 162.0 52.3 19.9 18.0 17.0 22.5 22.0 79.7 69.0 32B

S15 25 159.0 55.4 21.9 21.6 21.8 27.5 27.3 88.0 73.9 34C

Average 37.9 159.1 58.1 23.0 21.0 21.6 24.8 24.2 88.6 75.0

Standard
15.9 5.0 6.5 2.2 1.8 2.8 2.2 2.2 6.1 4.1
deviation

56
3.2.2 3D laser scanning

The subjects underwent scanning with a 3D laser body scanner (Vitus, Human Solutions, Germany)

which was set to scan at a high resolution of 300 pixels/cm2 to construct geometric models of their

body and breasts. The body scanner has a control unit and 4 sets of cameras which can move to capture

the full image of the subjects. The subjects were to stand upright with both arms open and breathe

naturally during the scanning process. The scanned data clouds were saved in ASCII format and

processed with an image processing software (Rapidform XOR, INUS Technology, Seoul, Korea).

Before the scanning operation was carried out, ten 5-mm markers were placed onto the skin of the

subject to define the boundaries of the breasts. The marker positions are shown in Figure 3.1 and listed

in Table 3.2.

Figure 3.1 Marker positions for defining boundaries of breast

57
Table 3.2 Description of markers for defining boundaries of breast

Marker Position

Marker 1 Lateral point of the breast

Marker 2 Inferior point of the breast

Marker 3 Inner-most point of the breast

Marker 4 Point between Markers 1 and 2

Marker 5 Point between Markers 2 and 3

Marker 6 Upper-most point of the breast

Markers 7, 8 Point inserted between Markers 2 and 6

Markers 9,
Point inserted between Markers 1 and 6
10

After adhering the markers onto the subjects, the subjects were scanned in the braless condition and

while wearing a sports bra. This was repeated three times. A sample of the scanned image is shown in

Figure 3.2.

58
Figure 3.2 3D body scanning of braless subject

3.3 Motion capturing


Twelve digital cameras (Eagle Motion Analysis Corporation, USA) were used to record the dynamic

movement of the breasts of the subjects. One of the cameras is shown in Figure 3.3. Movement was

recorded during running and breast vibration. Figure 3.4 shows the experimental setup in the laboratory.

A treadmill was placed at the centre of the room and 12 digital cameras were hung close to the celling

and surrounding the treadmill.

59
Figure 3.3 Digital camera for motion capture (Motion Analysis, n.d.)

Figure 3.4 Floor plan of motion capture experiment

To determine the material coefficients of the breasts, the captured motion was running braless on a

treadmill at a constant speed. Therefore, the breast displacement only depended on the running speed,

and material and geometric properties of the breasts. Spherical passive retro-reflective 12.5-mm

markers were placed onto the skin of the subject which reflect infrared light to capture the

displacements. It is worth noting that these markers are different from the markers used in the 3D

60
scanning experiment, which are just semi-spherical and placed on the skin of the subject to help to

identify the boundaries of the breasts while processing the geometric model. The retro-reflective

markers cannot be used for the 3D scanning experiment, as they cannot be scanned. Eleven markers

were used in the motion capture experiment, which are shown in Figure 3.5. One of the markers was

placed on the torso of the subject to record the movement of the subject. The other markers were placed

onto the breasts.

Figure 3.5 Position of markers on breasts - 1: sternum; 3: right nipple; 8: left nipple; and 2, 4, 5, and

6 are placed 4 cm away from 3 and 8 (Liang et al., 2019)

The first step of the experiment was the calibrate the cameras. A wand wave was done by waving a T-

shaped wand (see Figure 3.6). The positioning of the T-shaped wand during calibration allows the

direction of possible subject movement to be specified by the retro-reflective markers in three

directions: left and right (x coordinate plane), up forward and backward (y coordinate plane), and up

and down (z coordinate plane) which was then calibrated in EVaRT (version 5) software (Motion

Analysis Corporation, USA) (Park et al., 2014). The initial posture for the subject was to stand still

61
and look straight ahead. Then, the subject was asked to raise her breasts gently with her hands and hold

them still. Next, she was to quickly let go of her breasts so that they vibrated from free falling due to

gravity load and damping forces (Cai et al., 2018). Free vibration takes place when a force is exerted

onto a structure or part and disturbed momentarily, and then allowed to move freely with no restraint.

In this case, the focus is the free vibration of the breasts due to their own elasticity. That is, the breasts

are falling freely due to gravity load (Landau & Lifshitz, 1969). These vibrations then gradually reduce

or decay, their frequency or intensity changes, or all together stops, and the structure or part (and in

this case, the breasts) returns to static equilibrium; see Figure 3.7 (Chen et al., 2013). Damping ratio

is to measure how the vibrations gradually reduce until the system rests in its equilibrium position.

Here free-vibration testing of the breasts allows the digital cameras to capture the information to plot

the 3D time-displacement of the nipples. It is also important to measure how much the vibrations decay

or are reduced from one bounce of the breasts to the next, which is measured by using the damping

ratio. The damping ratio is then inputted into FE software to simulate viscosity, which is important for

describing the nonlinear behaviour of the breasts. To obtain the damping ratio of the breasts, the

displacement of the breasts was measured during the free vibration tests with two markers attached to

each of the nipples, in which the 3D time-dependent displacement was recorded and then also

processed with EVaRT before calculating the damping ratio of each subject.

Secondly, the braless subject was asked to stand upright and still with both arms open. Her body was

in a ‘T’ position as the initial static condition of each movement cycle. Thirdly, the subject had to run

on the treadmill until she reached a steady speed. The time-dependent coordinates of the eleven

markers were recorded in terms of the x-mediolateral (+ve left), y-vertical (+ve up), and z-

anteroposterior (+ve front) directions. The motion capture results were filtered, cleaned and smoothed

by using the EVaRT software to remove noise before analysing the dynamic breast displacement in

the braless condition during running.

62
Figure 3.6 T-shaped wand used with retro-reflective markers

Figure 3.7. Free vibration of breast

63
3.4 Finite element model

3.4.1 Geometric modelling

The raw scanned point cloud of the body is irregular and has holes due to missing scanned data. To

address this problem, Geomagic® software (Geomagic Studio 12, USA) was used to fill the holes and

smooth the surface of the geometric model. Geomagic® is a reverse engineering software that creates

3D parametric models. Its ability to automatically trim, join, cut or subtract surfaces and solids makes

it simple to comprehensively process geometric models.

In this study, some of the body parts, such as the legs and arms, have no impacts for analysing breast

motion. Hence, the first step in processing the geometric model was to remove these irrelevant body

parts (as shown in Figure 3.8). The geometric model then comprises two breasts, 10-mm of

subcutaneous tissue and a torso without the internal components of the breast, such as the fat tissues

and glands. The two breasts were separated from the body by using Boolean operations according to

the determined breast boundaries. The torso was built through offsetting operations on the body

without the two breasts and the 10-mm of subcutaneous tissue was also built through a Boolean

operation. The operations were realized with Rapidform XOR software (Rapidform XOR, INUS

Technology, Seoul, Korea). Rapidform XOR is a software package that allows both 3D scanned data

processing and parametric solid modelling to give users the ability to create intelligent geometric

models from point clouds and polygon meshes. In practice, after importing the scanned data into

Geomagic Studio 12, we first used the build-in function “Fill Single” with a setting named “curvature”

to fill holes that are within the region of interest of our later analysis. The function requires manual

selection of the holes that need to be filled. For each selected hole, the software automatically generates

new mesh points within the hole such that the new mesh matches the curvature of the surrounding

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mesh given by the scanned raw data. After filling the holes, we smoothed the surface of the model

using another build-in function “Remove Spikes”, which is designed to find the single-point spikes on

the given mesh and flatten them. Figure 3.2 and Figure 3.8 show our scanned raw data and the model

obtained after the hole-filling and smoothing processes respectively. As expected, both processes do

not alter the qualitative features of the scanned object, whereas they reduce the noises caused by the

imperfection of the scanning process significantly.

Figure 3.8 Initial geometric model

3.4.2 Mesh creation

An FE software, Marc 2014.2.0 (MSC Software Corporation, US), is used in this study, which has

excellent capability of simulating the nonlinear behaviour of FE models. Three-dimensional 4-node

tetrahedral solid elements (Element 157) which have quadratic displacement behaviour and can model

irregular meshes were used to model the breasts and body. The element form and meshes of the model

of the body are shown in Figures 3.9 and 3.10, respectively.

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Figure 3.9 Element 157 Figure 3.10 Mesh of model of body

Previous studies have proven that 4-node tetrahedral elements can simulate large deformations of the

female breasts (Martínez-Martínez et al., 2017; Sun et al., 2019; Hsu et al., 2011). The FE model of

Subject S01 was first established. As 4-node tetrahedral elements have the problem of being overly

stiff, 10-node quadratic elements were also considered for building the FE model. However, the model

would have had 203,066 nodes in comparison to the 32,159 nodes with 4-node tetrahedral elements,

which is a very large number of nodes and would require more computation time. Finally, the accuracy

of the calculated results is defined by the root mean square error (RMSE), which is calculated by using

Equation (3.1):

1 ∆𝑌𝑌𝑒𝑒𝑒𝑒𝑒𝑒,𝑖𝑖 −∆𝑌𝑌𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹,𝑖𝑖 2
RMSE =
𝑛𝑛
�∑𝑛𝑛𝑖𝑖=1( ∆𝑌𝑌𝑒𝑒𝑒𝑒𝑒𝑒,𝑖𝑖
) (3.1)

where ∆Yexp is the experimental change of displacement of the subject’s nipple in the y-direction at

every frame, ∆YFEM is the change of displacement of the subject’s nipple in the y-direction from the

FE analysis result at every frame s, and n is the number of sample data points.

Equation (3.1) only considers the displacement in the y-direction. During treadmill running in this

study, there are displacements in the x- and z-directions. However, they are smaller in comparison to
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the predominant displacement in the y-direction. Also, there are relatively more errors in the x- and z-

directions due to shoulder rotation and body waggle. Thus, the displacements in the x- and z-directions

were ignored. The calculated RMSE between the FE results and experimental data with the use of 4-

node elements was 0.5942%, and the RMSE with the use of 10-node elements was 0.4897%. Therefore,

the computation time would be longer if 10-node elements are used and the accuracy of the results

would not be much significantly improved.

In order to examine the mesh sensitivity of the FE model, five FE models with different mesh element

sizes (2 mm, 4 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm and 10 mm) were built to determine the influence of the mesh density.

It was observed that there is only a 0.26% variation in the dynamic breast displacement between the

results with the use of 4 mm elements and 6 mm elements. However, the calculation time for the model

with 4 mm elements is 3 times more than that with the 6 mm elements. Therefore, 6 mm elements were

used for both accuracy and efficiency of computation time.

Table 3.3 Results of different mesh sizes

Number of elements RMSE of breast


Computation
Mesh size displacement
Body Breasts time
during running

2 mm 1,986,290 385,301 About 1 month

4 mm 302,501 56,970 About 6 days 0.5349%

6 mm 119,510 22,931 About 2 days 0.5942%

8 mm 49,880 11,086 25.5 h 0.9319%

10 mm 23,916 5870 13.5 h 1.0241%

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From the mesh sensitivity study and comparison of the two element types, 4-node tetrahedral

elements that are 6 mm in size were used to mesh the geometric model of the female subjects.

3.4.3 Coefficients of Mooney-Rivlin material

To simulate breast movement accurately, it is critical to precisely determine the material parameters.

Following previous studies (Sun et al., 2019; Liang et al., 2019; Samani et al., 2003), a Mooney-Rivlin

material model with 5 coefficients (C01, C02, C10, C11, and C20) was used to construct the breasts with

Marc 2014.2.0 (MSC Software Corporation, US). This material model has been proven to have the

ability to simulate large deformations and nonlinear mechanical behaviours of soft tissues.

The generalized Mooney-Rivlin polynomial function of strain energy, which results in a better

agreement with the test data for both unfilled as well as filled rubber in previous studies, can be written

as:

𝑁𝑁 𝑁𝑁
𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗
1 (3.2)
W = � 𝐶𝐶𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖 (𝐼𝐼1 − 3) (𝐼𝐼2 − 3) + � (𝐼𝐼 − 1)2 𝑖𝑖
𝐷𝐷𝑖𝑖 3
𝑖𝑖,𝑗𝑗=1 𝑖𝑖−1

where W is the strain energy potential; I3 is the elastic volume ratio or third strain invariant; Cij is a

factor related to the shear behaviour of the material; Di is the compressibility behaviour of the material;

and N is order of the polynomial. I1 and I2 are the first and second strain invariants of the components

of the left Cauchy-Green deformation tensor B, which is written in Equations 3.3 and 3.4.

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I1 = tr(B) (3.3)

1
I2 = [(tr(B))2 − tr(B2 )] (3.4)
2

where B=F∙FT, and F is the deformation gradient.

To accurately describe the breasts, 5 coefficients (C01, C02, C10, C11, and C20), were used to define the

Mooney-Rivlin material properties. A series of computing analyses were carried out to determine the

most appropriate coefficients. The boundary conditions of these analyses were gravity loaded to the

breasts and the boundary displacement was extracted from the torso part based on the motion capture

experiment. The steps of dynamic analysis were shown in Figure 3.11. The first step was to include a

time dependent displacement history using the table option in the boundary condition menu, and the

displacement was based on motion capture experiment as we mentioned. Then, the second step was

creating the loadcase for the dynamic analysis. The next step was creating the job and submitting it.

The final step was postprocessing the results by opening the post file and reviewing the results.

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Figure 3.11 Steps of dynamic analysis

The differences between the displacement of the bare breast condition in the experiment and that in

the FE analysis results were compared and minimized. The initial sets of the coefficients of the

Mooney-Rivlin material model for the breasts and layer of subcutaneous tissues were based on those

in Samani et al. (2003).

Table 3.4 Material coefficients (Samani et al. 2003)

Component of model Coefficient Value/ kPa

C01 0.31

C02 3.8

Breasts C10 0.3

C11 2.25

C20 4.72

C01 5
Layer of subcutaneous tissue
C10 5

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Three steps were carried out to obtain the optimal material coefficients of the breasts. The first step

was to determine the optimal range of material coefficients for the FE model of the body without a

sports bra. The FE model that uses the Mooney-Rivlin material with smaller coefficients should show

a smaller amplitude during vibrating. It was observed that the experimentally measured amplitude of

the breast motion is 10 mm less than the simulated amplitude by using coefficients that are 5 times

smaller than the initial set of coefficients (was C01 = 0.060 kPa, C02 = 0.944 kPa, C10 = 0.062 kPa, C11

= 0.450 kPa, and C20 = 0.160 kPa), and 4 mm larger than the simulated amplitude by using coefficients

that are 2 times smaller (was C01 = 0.150 kPa, C02 = 2.360 kPa, C10 = 0.155 kPa, C11 = 1.125 kPa, and

C20 = 1.900 kPa) than the initial set of coefficients. Therefore, the optimal material coefficients should

be in this range. The second step was to input the coefficients of the breasts that were within this range

into the FE model. A compensation factor α was defined to divide the initial set of material coefficients.

The corresponding RMSEs are shown in Table 3.5. The third step was to find the minimized RMSE

result for the different material coefficients. Table 3.5 shows that the optimal material coefficients are

close to the coefficients when the compensation factor is 3. By adjusting the coefficients, the set with

C01 = 0.108 kPa, C02 = 1.18 kPa, C10 = 0.094 kPa, C11 = 0.82 kPa, and C20 = 0.84 kPa has the lowest

RMSE, which is 0.0405%. Therefore, this set is selected for the optimal material coefficients of the

breasts. With appropriate material coefficients, the dynamic displacements of the braless breasts are

very similar to those of the experimental data, which is shown in Figure 3.12.

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Table 3.5 RMSEs of different material coefficients

Compensation
5 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2
factor α

RMSE /% 3.34 1.68 1.39 0.32 0.21 2.86 6.77

Figure 3.12 Dynamic displacements of breasts: experiment vs. FEM

The same method was applied for each subject, and the results of Mooney-Rivlin material coefficients

are shown in Table 3.6. According to Chen et al. (2013), when the RMSE is less than 1%, the error is

acceptable and the corresponding material coefficients are selected.

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Table 3.6 Material coefficients of different subjects and RMSEs

Subject C10/ kPa C01/ kPa C11/ kPa C20/ kPa C02/ kPa RMSE %

S01 0.094 0.108 0.820 1.180 0.840 0.045

S02 0.103 0.103 0.820 0.860 0.860 0.152

S03 0.102 0.082 0.820 0.820 0.840 0.132

S04 0.090 0.098 0.940 1.280 0.940 0.297

S05 0.109 0.099 0.920 0.980 0.940 0.110

S06 0.074 0.088 0.820 1.180 0.840 0.069

S07 0.104 0.108 0.620 0.640 0.980 0.140

S08 0.086 0.084 0.820 0.830 0.920 0.180

S09 0.084 0.100 0.620 1.080 0.810 0.290

S10 0.102 0.103 0.820 0.870 0.920 0.162

S11 0.094 0.100 0.620 0.580 0.560 0.220

S12 0.062 0.064 0.830 0.640 0.540 0.120

S13 0.096 0.102 1.010 1.030 1.000 0.170

S14 0.105 0.089 0.940 0.980 0.102 0.150

S15 0.135 0.162 0.930 2.430 0.870 0.070

3.4.4 Damping ratio

A typical time vs. displacement graph of the free-vibration of the breasts that shows the motion decay

of this viscous material is provided in Figure 3.13.

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Figure 3.13 Time vs. displacement of breasts

The viscous damping ratio can be calculated by using a logarithmic decrement equation. The

logarithmic decrement δ is the natural log of the amplitude ratio of two adjacent wavelengths of

displacement in the free decay of vibration, and the equation can be written as:

𝑦𝑦𝑛𝑛
δ = ln ( ) (3.5)
𝑦𝑦𝑛𝑛+1

where yn is defined in the time-displacement curve of motion decay in Figure 3.10. In this study, n is

equal to 1.

The damping ratio ζ can be calculated with the following equation:

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δ
ζ= (3.6)
�(2𝜋𝜋)2 +δ2

The breasts were lifted to different initial heights so that 3 rounds of free-vibration testing were

conducted. It was necessary to conduct more than one round of testing because it is difficult to capture

the damping movement of the breasts due to their limitations in volume. Time vs. displacement was

plotted from the results of the free-vibration tests for the left nipple of S01 which were captured by the

infrared cameras. To ensure the reliability of the data, two curves were selected to calculate the

damping ratio of the breasts, which are shown in Figure 3.14.

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Braless Damping
Time-displacement curve
condition ratio

1 0.289

2 0.257

Figure 3.14 Time-displacement curves of braless condition and calculated damping ratios

According to Equations 3.5 and 3.6, the damping ratio of the braless breasts can be calculated by using

the time-displacement curves of the breast vibration. The mean value of the viscous damping ratio is

confirmed to be 0.273.

Occasionally, the subjects were slightly shaking, so most of the plotted experimental results are similar

to those of S13 in Figure 3.15. The relative position z does not become a constant after the first peak

of oscillation, which means that the subject was not standing still for a long enough time. This problem

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was found in every performed experiment. Therefore, it is not possible to determine the equilibrium

position by plotting this kind of experimental curve with Equations 3.5 and 3.6.

Figure 3.15 Experimental curve of free vibration for S13

In this work, the value in which the acceleration becomes 0 where the first peak declines is used.

Mathematically, the spring is at rest in the equilibrium position. Then, the equation of motion becomes

Equation 3.1, which is not zero. However, according to Cai et al. (2018), the spring constant for the

lower part of the breasts is large because this part is denser than the upper part of the breasts. Thus, a

small deformation of the lower part of the breasts can balance the right part of Equation 3.1 and render

the acceleration equal to zero. In other words, this small deformation acts as an evaluation of the

uncertainty of this method in finding the equilibrium position. In addition, the area of decline after the

first peak is chosen because there is the lowest speed of vibration in this area.
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mÿ = −cẏ (3.1)

Figure 3.16 is a magnification of the experimental curve and the calculated acceleration, 𝑦𝑦̈ . In this

figure, the dashed black line shows the time when the acceleration is equal to zero during the decline

of the first peak. The dashed blue line shows the displacement value at the selected equilibrium time,

which is the estimated equilibrium position. For this experimental data set, the equilibrium position is

-166.9 mm. After determining the equilibrium position, the damping ratio of the breasts can be

calculated to build the FE model. To evaluate the uncertainty of this method, the damping ratio and

spring constant in Cai et al. (2018) were applied and the small deformation mentioned before is

calculated to be -0.45 mm. In comparison to the overall displacement of the breasts, this uncertainty

is an acceptable value.

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Figure 3.16 Magnified experimental curve

3.5 Conclusions

This chapter has systematically presented the research methods and results to carry out the first

objective of the project. Building an accurate FE model of the female body is the foundation of this

project. The FE model of the body is constructed with a rigid torso, breasts with hyperelasticity, and a

layer of subcutaneous tissues. The geometric model of the body is obtained through 3D laser scanning

79
for authenticity. The Mooney-Rivlin material coefficients of the breasts are determined by examining

the differences between the FE-modelled results and experimental data, and the damping ratio is

directly calculated from the free-vibration test data. The method proposed in this chapter provides an

effective way to determine the properties of the breasts to predict breast deformation and then, used to

analyse the contact mechanism of the breasts and sports bra.

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Chapter 4 Development of finite element contact model

4.1 Introduction

In order to limit breast motion during physical activities, commercial sports bras tend to compress the

breasts against the ribcage, but the excessive pressure exerted onto the skin can cause discomfort and

is physiologically distressing. Designing garments that address overall wellbeing is fast becoming an

emerging research topic. However, scientific analyses of the mechanical interactions between sports

bras and the human body have been seriously lacking because it is challenging to do so, due to the

difficulties of modelling and optimising the nonlinear interactions between the breasts which are

viscoelastic and fabrics that are elastic.

As for increasing the wear comfort of sports bras, a direct method to optimise wear comfort is to reduce

the amount of contact pressure between the sports bra and body of the wearer but under the premises

of ensuring function. Previous studies have typically focussed on the interaction between a sports bra

and the body based on experiments with human subjects (Coltman, McGhee & Steele, 2015). However,

fabricating sports bra samples and fitting them onto female subjects are time consuming processes and

prone to human error. In the last few decades, FE modelling has been used to solve this problem. For

example, the FE model in a study by Li et al. (2003) was built by using B-splines for a numerical

analysis, as opposed to images of real human bodies. Nevertheless, their study lacked authenticity as

parts of the breast are modelled as elastic components and the other parts of the body as rigid

components. They also did not consider gravity, which means that there is no initial pressure of the

bra in their model. In addition, Bel-Brunon et al. (2014) developed an FE contact model and calculated

the normalised von Mises stresses for a bra worn without gravity. Their results showed that the vertical

displacement of the nipples with a bra worn is greater than that without a bra worn, which is peculiar.

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The deficiencies of previous studies therefore show the difficulties of using FE analyses to solve

problems on the contact between breasts and bras. The primary challenge is the penetration problem

in modelling the contact mechanics.

To overcome these shortcomings, this chapter presents the development of a FE contact model of the

female body and sports bra to simulate the static and dynamic contact conditions and dynamic

displacement, and calculate the natural frequencies of the breasts when a sports bra is worn as the

support system. The FE models were based on the actual female body and sports bra, and nonlinear

material model was used to describe the movement of the breasts. In particular, a new method was

used to avoid penetration problem. This chapter provides a better understanding of the contact between

a compression sports bra and the body, which can improve the development process of sports bras

without the need to involve humans through trial and error. Moreover, the new method provides a

more efficient, accurate and robust strategy to solve not only the complex problems of body-bra

interactions but also other design applications where the properties of the materials are highly nonlinear

and viscoelastic in nature.

4.2 Experimental work

To simulate the contact conditions between the sports bra and the wearer, three experiments were

carried out. The first involved a tensile strength test to obtain the material parameters of the sports bra

components by using an Instron 4411 tester. The second experiment was a contact pressure test to

validate the boundary conditions of the FE contact model by using a pressure sensor system. The third

was a motion capture experiment of the subjects while they wore the sports bra to validate the results

of the FE contact model, and the RMSE between the experimental and FE dynamic displacements was

calculated to measure the accuracy of the FE contact model. The procedures of the motion capture

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process have been described in detail in the last chapter and the only addition here is that the subject

is wearing a sports bra. Therefore, the procedures for the motion capture experiment will not be

discussed in this chapter.

4.2.1 Tensile strength test of sports bra components

The five sports bras selected for this study are shown in Figure 4.1, which have different impact ratings

(high, medium and low impacts). The mechanical properties of the sports bra components were tested

by using an Instron 4411 tester at a constant-rate-of-extension; see Figure 4.2. The sports bras were

examined as 4 components, namely, the shoulder straps, back panel, bra cup, and elastic bra band; see

Figure 4.3. Tthe different components were individually sewn into loop samples. The samples were

then loaded at a specified rate to a pre-set tension and unloaded at a specified rate until the loop did

not have any tension. This cycle was repeated 5 times to find the mean value.

Figure 4.1 Sports bra samples

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Figure 4.2 Stretching of sports bra

Figure 4.3 Instron 4411

4.2.2 Contact pressure test

The actual contact pressure between the body and sports bra was tested by using a pressure sensor

system (Novel Pliance-X). Two different types of sensors were used to measure 5 points on the body:

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the left and right shoulders (Points 1 and 2), left and right underarms (Points 3 and 4), and bottom of

the left bra cup (Point 5). Points 1 to 4 were tested by using a single sensor and Point 5 with a 2*2

matrix sensor because of the large area that needed to be measured. The tested positions and the

equipment are shown in Figure 4.4 and Table 4.1. The contact pressure changed when the subject

inhaled and exhaled, and each time that she made a small movement. In this study, the tested pressure

is calculated by averaging the pressure over the stationary phase.

Figure 4.4 Pressure test positions

Table 4.1 Measured points

Point Location

Point 1 Left shoulder

Point 2 Right shoulder

Point 3 Left underarm

Point 4 Right underarm

Point 5 Bottom of left bra cup

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4.3 Finite element contact model

4.3.1 Sports bra model

The strain-stress behaviour of the fabric of the sports bra components in the direction of the stretch

primarily influences the amount of contact pressure. The direction of the stretch of the strap, bra cup

and back panel is in the wale direction, while that of the elastic bra band is in the course direction.

Hence, the FE model of the sports bra fabric was assumed to be isotropic, and the Young’s moduli

from the experimental data are shown in Table 4.2 (Yu et al., 2016). The geometric model of the sports

bra was extracted from the gravity-free model of the body. The initial shape of the FE model of the

body was affected by the gravity load. A gravity-free model was then constructed by using a force with

the same magnitude as gravity but in the opposite direction. The entire model of the bra was meshed

by using 6 mm quadrilateral elements. The type of element used is Element 138 in MSC. Marc software,

which is shown in Figure 4.5. As shown in the figure, the first two element base vectors (V1 and V2)

lie along the plane of the three corner nodes and the third vector (V3) is determined by using the right-

hand system from the first two vectors. This model is shown in Figure 4.6.

Figure 4.5 Element 138

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Figure 4.6 FE model of compression sports bra

Table 4.2 Material properties of sports bra components


Component Young’s modulus /MPa

Strap 2.3159

Bra cup fabric 0.3344


Bra 1
Elastic bra band 1.5732

Back panel 4.2027

Strap 1.8372

Bra cup fabric 0.9626


Bra 2
Elastic bra band 3.0017

Back panel 0.5973

Strap 7.2167

Bra cup fabric 0.3101


Bra 3
Elastic bra band 2.5339

Back panel 0.6363

Bra4 Strap 5.8943

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Bra cup fabric 0.3597

Elastic bra band 1.7695

Back panel 0.7771

Strap 1.3324

Bra cup fabric 0.9474


Bra 5
Elastic bra band 0.9127

Back panel 0.5502

4.3.2 Loading and boundary conditions

The FE model of the body was initially based on the subject in the standing position and the shape of

the breasts would be affected by the gravity load. A force with the same magnitude as gravity but in

the opposite direction was added so that the breasts were based on a static equilibrium position, which

means that no external force was applied to them.

The greatest challenge that needed to be addressed was penetration in the contact model. To solve this

problem, the model of the body was first reduced and then expanded, which involves the following

steps:

a) the size of the original model of the body and bra was geometrically reduced. The scale factor for

shrinking was 0.97 in each direction (x-, y- and z-directions). Sports bras expand during wear. Hence,

the model of the bra in the initial state had to be smaller than the original model;

b) the model of the body was reduced, during which the gap between the models of the body and the

sports bra was noted;

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c) the model of the body was geometrically expanded, which was done in Marc (MSC Marc 2014.2.0,

US) by adding a thermal expansion property, which means that the volume increases with temperature.

The expansion ended when the size of the model of the body reached the original size and calculated

by using Equations 4.1 to 4.4; and

d) gravity load was applied to the breasts.

The key step of this method which is to first shrink and then expand the model is to determine the scale

factor for shrinking, which is 0.97 in this study. Different amounts of contraction (using scale factors

of 0.92, 0.93, 0.94, 0.95, 0.96, 0.97 and 0.98) were attempted in each direction (x-, y- and z-directions)

for both the body and the sports bra. In order to ensure that each part of the FE model uniformly shrunk,

the volume of the entire FE model was centred and scaled based on the centroid of the model. Hence,

the scale factor for shrinking was the same in all three directions. The end of the expansion was when

the size of the model of the body reached the original size (i.e. from 0.983 to 1). Therefore, the amount

of expansion depends on the scale factor for shrinking. However, the amount of expansion is limited

because of the penetration problem and excessive deformation of the FE meshes. After a few

simulations, the smallest scale factor for shrinking is 0.92. Then, seven trials of simulations with

different scale factors for shrinking (i.e., 0.92, 0.93, 0.94, 0.95, 0.96, 0.97 and 0.98) were conducted.

Finally, the simulated static contact pressure which used a scale factor of 0.97 was found to mostly

agree with the experimental value. Therefore, the scale factor used for shrinking is 0.97. The static

contact pressure between the sports bra and the body was analysed by using the steps described above.

The entire process is shown in Figure 4.7.

The reason why this method could solve the penetration problem was that the overlap between the bra

and the breast initially was too large. Therefore, FEM could not give a physically reasonable solution

if there was no gap at the first stage.

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Figure 4.7 Boundary conditions of contact model

Assuming that the initial temperature in the FE models is T0, the initial volume of the model of the

body is V0, and the volumetric coefficient of the thermal expansion is αv , which results in

1 ∆𝑉𝑉
α𝑣𝑣 = (4.1)
𝑉𝑉0 ∆𝑇𝑇

90
where ∆𝑉𝑉 is the variation in the size of the model of the body and ∆𝑇𝑇 is the temperature variation.

T=k∗t (4.2)

where T is the temperature, k is a user-defined proportionality coefficient and t is time. Hence,

Equation (5) can be rewritten as follows:

𝑉𝑉𝑠𝑠 −𝑉𝑉0 𝑉𝑉𝑠𝑠 −𝑉𝑉0


α𝑣𝑣 = = (4.3)
𝑉𝑉0 (𝑇𝑇𝑠𝑠 −𝑇𝑇0 ) 𝑉𝑉0 (𝑘𝑘𝑡𝑡𝑠𝑠 −𝑇𝑇0 )

1 𝑉𝑉𝑆𝑆 −𝑉𝑉0
t1 = ( + 𝑇𝑇0 ) (4.4)
𝑘𝑘 α𝑣𝑣 𝑉𝑉0

where ts is the end of the expansion of the model of the body, Ts is the temperature at time ts and Vs is

the size of the model of the body at time ts.

The dynamic FE contact model was used to simulate the breast displacement and contact pressure

during running. As the breasts were attached to the torso part of the body with the glue contact option,

the boundary displacement extracted from the motion capture experiment was applied to the torso part.

The applied boundary displacement was simplified to two degrees of freedom (y- and z-directions).

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4.4 Contact pressure

4.4.1 Static contact pressure

The distribution of the contact pressure in the different sports bras is very similar. The highest contact

pressure was found on the shoulders caused by the shoulder strap, and under the arms caused by the

elastic bra band. Studies in the literature state that the bra band supports most of the weight of the

breasts, so the bra band is mostly fabricated with strong elastic material, and the shoulder straps are

supposed to hold the bra in place. Therefore, they can induce relatively high contact pressure, which

is especially true for larger-breasted women, such as S01 among the subjects in this study. The highest

contact pressure between the bra cup and the breasts can be observed at the bottom of the breasts,

which is caused by the gravity load. The values of the simulated contact pressure at the bottom of the

bra cup approximate those of the experiment, which indicates that taking gravity load into

consideration is a good idea. With accurate material coefficients, the FE model results agree with the

experimental results. However, most commercial sports bras have two layers. The sports bra model

was simplified to one layer, which means that the results could be somewhat inaccurate.

Figures 4.8 to 4.12 show the distribution of the contact pressure between the sports bras and S01 with

the static FE contact models. The numerically and experimentally obtained contact pressure values are

summarised in Table 4.3. It can be observed that the differences in contact pressure between FEM and

experiment were small except Bra 3. Bra 3 has three layers of the bra cup, so the contact pressures

were larger in the experimental results. This shows a need for future work that more FE models of

sports bras with different structure should be built based on the experience in this study.

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Figure 4.8 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 1 and S01

Figure 4.9 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 2 and S01

Figure 4.10 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 3 and S01

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Figure 4.11 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 4 and S01

Figure 4.12 Distribution of contact pressure between Bra 5 and S01

Table 4.3 Comparison of numerically and experimentally obtained contact pressure


Contact pressure based on Contact pressure based on
Sports bra Position
FEM /kPa experiments /kPa

Shoulder 1.4 1.4

Bra 1 Underarm 2.0 2.0

Bottom of bra cup 0.8 0.7

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Shoulder 1.4 1.4

Bra 2 Underarm 1.6 1.6

Bottom of bra cup 0.6 0.6

Shoulder 1.7 1.6

Bra 3 Underarm 1.7 2.8

Bottom of bra cup 0.4 0.7

Shoulder 2.1 2.1

Bra 4 Underarm 1.8 1.8

Bottom of bra cup 0.7 0.9

Shoulder 1.5 1.4

Bra 5 Underarm 1.1 1.1

Bottom of bra cup 0.5 0.6

4.4.2 Dynamic contact pressure

Not only can FE modelling accurately simulate the static contact pressure but can also be performed

to determine the contact pressure during running. Since dynamic contact pressure is difficult to

determine with the use of wired sensors, the FE method can be applied to solve this problem. The

dynamic results showed that the amount of the contact pressure caused by the bra strap and the elastic

bra band increases during movement. However, the contact pressure at the bottom of the bra cup is

slightly reduced, probably because the compression sports bra used in this study is a simple vest-style

bra. The breasts were mainly supported by the straps and elastic bra band during running. Additionally,

the changes increased with a faster speed of running. The greatest change in the contact pressure caused

by the strap and elastic bra band is 0.8259 and 0.3788 kPa, respectively. As the strap may cause the

most discomfort, studying its dynamic contact pressure is important when designing a sports bra.
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4.5 Dynamic breast displacement with sports bra

In this study, FE modelling is carried out to predict the dynamic displacement of the breasts during

running at two constant speeds (5 and 10 km/h). To validate the FE contact model, the breast

displacement obtained from the simulations was compared with that based on the motion capture

experiment with the five sports bras in the y- and z-directions. The displacement in the x-direction was

ignored because the displacement of the torso and breasts in the x-direction very much relies on the

arms which move back and forth during running. A comparison between the simulation and

experimentally obtained displacement was made for each sports bra condition; see Figures 4.13 to 4.17.

The figures illustrate that the two methods show similar patterns of breast motion. The corresponding

RMSEs were less than 1%, which is acceptable (Chen et al., 2013) (Table 4.4). However, the absolute

error at the peak were relatively large. This may be because the FE model of the breasts were simplified

as homogeneous, instead of having different tissues. More detailed FE model of breast should be

developed in the future.

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Figure 4.13 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two speeds of

running: Bra 1

Figure 4.14 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two speeds of

running: Bra 2
97
Figure 4.15 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two speeds of

running: Bra 3

Figure 4.16 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two speeds of

running: Bra 4

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Figure 4.17 Simulation and experimentally obtained breast displacement during two speeds of

running: Bra 5

Table 4.4 RMSE percentage of simulated breast displacement


Bra Direction Condition - Running RMSE% Max absolute error (mm)
5 km/h 0.3310 15
Y
10 km/h 0.2633 6
Bra 1
5 km/h 0.5056 13
Z
10 km/h 0.5214 30
5 km/h 0.8781 12
Y
10 km/h 0.3091 10
Bra 2
5 km/h 0.1912 13
Z
10 km/h 0.4725 18
5 km/h 0.2907 25
Y
10 km/h 0.9177 17
Bra 3
5 km/h 0.2713 8
Z
10 km/h 0.6328 19
5 km/h 0.3068 15
Y
10 km/h 0.3323 16
Bra 4
5 km/h 0.8237 18
Z
10 km/h 0.2672 29
5 km/h 0.5942 16
Y
10 km/h 0.7416 18
Bra 5
5 km/h 0.7941 20
Z
10 km/h 0.5064 12
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4.6 Modal analysis

To analyse the dynamic response of the breasts with and without a sports bra worn, a modal analysis

was carried out and the natural frequencies were calculated in MSC. Marc software. In reality,

resonance occurs when the frequency of motion matches the natural frequencies of the human body.

The female breasts are especially vulnerable and large deformations of the breasts caused by resonance

can lead to substantial discomfort, pain or even injury. However, resonance is undesirable so if the

natural frequencies of the breasts are known, this would help to prevent resonance (Balachandran,

2009).

The first 5 natural frequencies of the breasts of S01 with and without the most basic sports bra (Bra 5)

worn were calculated by considering the viscous damping effect. The frequencies are reported in Table

4.4. The findings from the modal analysis demonstrate the importance of wearing a sports bra during

physical activities. The step frequencies with different walking or running speeds were calculated by

using f=1/T, which ranged between 1.0 and 3.5 Hz; see Table 4.5. The natural frequencies in the braless

condition are all within this range too; see Table 4.6. Usually, the first mode shape has the largest

amplitude, which means that the breasts experience the largest deformation. So, it is possible that the

first mode shape points to a less comfortable condition as opposed to the other conditions. Figure 4.18

shows the first mode shape when a sports bra is not worn.

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Table 4.5 Frequencies of breast motion during running

Frequency (s-1)
Condition
5 km/h (y) 10 km/h (y) 5 km/h (z) 10 km/h (z)

Breast FEM 2.84 3.21 1.07 1.49

Breast actual 2.85 3.17 1.12 1.63

Table 4.6 Natural frequencies with and without a sports bra

Condition

Vibration No bra Sports bra worn

Left breast Right breast

Frequency order Magnitude of frequency (Hz)

1st 2.074 2.075 5.585

2nd 2.198 2.203 7.242

3rd 2.533 2.569 7.575

4th 3.205 3.205 8.071

5th 3.298 3.307 8.801

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(a) First mode shape of left breast (b) First mode shape of right breast

Figure 4.18 First mode shape

The natural frequencies of the breasts when a sports bra is worn as a support system were found to be

significantly higher than those in the braless condition. Since the step frequency during running easily

reaches the natural frequency of the breasts, resonance can occur. Moreover, the breasts will oscillate

with a much greater amplitude, which can cause high levels of discomfort. The human body and

sportswear combined are supposed to have a higher natural frequency than the step frequency during

exercise. A modal analysis can improve the understanding of breast motion and provide the basis for

predicting breast displacement in dynamic conditions. Therefore, a modal analysis can be used to

validate the function of a sports bra or any other sportswear. This analysis proves that the FE model is

an important and necessary tool for future studies that seek to address problems that involve soft tissues

and garments.

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4.7 Conclusions

This chapter explicates in detail, a method of developing and using an FE contact model, the results

from the contact model, and the corresponding experimental work. To solve the penetration problem

with the use of a contact model, a method is created which first shrinks and then expands the model,

and used to simulate the contact conditions between the female body and sports bra. In the static

analysis, the simulated contact pressure values are in agreement with the results of the contact pressure

tests. The distribution of the contact pressure is clear and can be easily analysed with computer

modelling. In the dynamic analysis, breast motion is investigated and analysed when a sports bra is

donned with contact pressure. Based on the calculated errors between the results of the FE model and

experiments, the model is found to predict the contact conditions with good accuracy. The reliability

of this study is thus validated.

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Chapter 5 Determining pressure comfort range

5.1 Introduction

The perceived comfort when wearing a sports bra is associated with the pressure exerted onto the skin

by the sports bra (Okabe & Kurokawa, 2004). A well-designed sports bra should provide an

appropriate amount of contact pressure which limits the movement of the breasts during physical

activities, and also gives a sense of security to the wearer. However, excessive pressure not only causes

discomfort but also results in various health problems, as documented in previous research (Lee, Hyun

& Tokura, 2001; Miyatsuji et al., 2002). Nevertheless, an evaluation of the range of contact pressure

that is tolerable while wearing a sports bra during running is still necessary as the results in previous

studies are mixed. Hence, the purpose of this chapter is to determine a range of contact pressure that

would be tolerable while wearing a sports bra during running.

In order to determine this range, two steps are carried out; one is subjective while the other is objective.

First, a questionnaire survey is carried out to determine the perceived comfort sensation. The design

of the questionnaire is based on two conditions: static and dynamic. The perceived subjective comfort

in the dynamic condition is important because sports bras are worn during dynamic activities, like

physical exercise. The other step is conducting pressure tests to obtain objective experimental data.

The aim is to provide a sports bra that is well fitting, which is based on the bust and under-bust

circumferences of a woman.

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5.2 Experimental work

5.2.1 Subjects

To investigate the pressure comfort range of a sports bra that is perceived to be comfortable, twelve

Chinese female subjects were recruited on a volunteer basis to try on at least one sports bra and give

feedback on the perceived comfort. The corresponding contact pressures were also tested. The

selection criteria were that the subjects have to be healthy, have not underwent any previous breast

surgeries, and are not pregnant or lactating. The basic information of the subjects and their body

measurements are listed in Table 5.1. The youngest subject is 19 years old and the oldest subject is 50

years old in this experiment. The subjects were grouped based on their bra cup size: 32C (three

subjects), 34B (three subjects), 34C (four subjects), 34D (one subject), and 36C (one subject). The

subjects were informed about the purpose of the study, and then had to sign an informed consent form

before taking part in the experiment. The experimental procedure was approved by the Human Ethics

Committee of the Hong Kong Polytechnic University (HSEARS20151207004).

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Table 5.1 Subject information

Breast Full Under Cup size (commercial


Age Height(cm) Weight(kg) BMI Horizontal
cup line Root Bust Bust bra)
(cm) (cm) (cm) (cm)
Subject L R L R
S01 21 149.0 42.3 19.1 17.8 17.9 24.0 24.1 76.3 66.2 32C
S02 21 161.0 51.7 19.9 21.0 20.9 21.1 20.5 85.0 68.4 32C
S03 20 155.0 52.7 21.6 18.5 19.5 24.6 24.4 85.8 75.6 34B
S04 23 163.0 55.8 21.0 20.2 19.1 23.8 24.1 84.5 71.8 34B
S05 21 167.0 60.9 21.8 23.1 21.5 20.3 20.3 86.2 70.9 34B
S06 24 155.0 48.6 20.2 19.2 18.9 22.3 22.5 83.5 69.8 34C
S07 42 166.0 61.2 22.2 22.5 21.4 20.6 21.7 91.5 77.2 36C
S08 19 158.0 56.6 22.7 21.4 22.1 22.8 23.5 90.2 74.5 34C
S09 50 163.0 55.5 20.9 23.5 23.8 26.0 25.7 95.0 74.0 34D
S10 24 148.0 56.2 21.7 22.6 21.9 23.1 21.5 91.5 77.5 34C
S11 22 156.0 52.5 21.6 20.3 20.0 22.0 21.5 83.0 72.0 32C
S12 23 167.0 58.6 21.0 22.0 21.5 22.7 22.0 92.0 75.0 34C
Average 25.83 159.0 54.38 21.14 21.01 20.71 22.78 22.65 87.04 72.74

Standard
deviation 9.70 6.30 5.09 0.98 1.77 1.59 1.60 1.62 4.96 3.36

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5.2.2 Experiment

To prepare for the experiment, a questionnaire was first carried out to determine the

perceived comfort sensation while wearing a sports bra (Figure 5.1) and the sports bra

samples. The samples are vest-style sports bras, which is the same type of sports bra

discussed in Chapter 4.

The questionnaire has two parts: the first part asked for the basic information of the

subjects and their body measurements, while the second part assessed the comfort of

the wearer in both static and dynamic conditions. A nine-point Likert scale with 1 as

extremely uncomfortable and 9 as extremely comfortable was used to measure the

perceived comfort sensation.

The experiments were conducted in the laboratory at The Hong Kong Polytechnic

University. The temperature was controlled between a range 23℃ to 27℃, and the

relative humidity was 65%±3%. The wind speed was less than 1 m/s. This environment

ensured that the female subjects felt comfortable in their natural state, and that the

environment would not affect their evaluation of the perceived comfort.

The experiment procedures and approximate time required to carry out the experiment

are shown in Figure 5.2. After the subject had a good understanding of the aims and

procedures of the experiments, measurements were first taken of her horizontal cup line,

breast roots, full bust and under bust. The measurements of each subject are listed in

Table 5.1. Based on the measurements, the correct-size sports bra can then be provided

to the subject. Then, the female subjects donned their provided sports bra and they were

examined to ensure that the bra is well-fitting. Four different types of sports bras were

offered to the subjects, and they were randomly assigned their bra and number of bras.

The order of the wear trial for each subject was also randomized. Next, the contact

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pressure between the body of the subject and their sports bra was determined by using

a pressure sensor system (Novel Pliance-X). The contact pressure from the shoulder

strap, elastic bra band and bra cup were tested, which are shown in Figure 5.3.

Pressure was exerted to the same three areas of each subject for a few minutes during

the contact pressure test and the subjects were not to make any large movements. Then,

the subjects were also required to rate the pressure comfort in the static condition. To

obtain the scores of the pressure comfort, each subject was required to run on a treadmill

at two constant speeds (5 km/h and 10 km/h) for a few minutes, and then rate the

pressure comfort for the dynamic component of the testing. The entire experiment

required about 50 minutes. The experimental data were used to study the effect of

contact pressure at the three positions toward pressure comfort by using statistical

analyses, which are correlation coefficient and analysis of variance (ANOVA).

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Figure 5.1 Questionnaire on perceived comfort sensation

109
Figure 5.2 Experimental procedure

110
Figure 5.3 Testing contact pressure of different bra components on body

5.3 Results and discussion

Table 5.2 shows the mean scores of the perceived pressure from the subjects during standing

or sitting (static), and running (dynamic), and the contact pressure from the shoulder strap, bra

cup and elastic bra band based on the tests. The differences between the scores in the static and

dynamic conditions are evident. With the exception of the contact pressure caused by the elastic

bra band, the mean scores of perceived pressures increase with running rather than standing.

Moreover, the score for the perceived pressure from the elastic bra band is the same for both

the static and dynamic conditions, and less for the static condition. This means that the subjects

who felt less comfortable during standing or sitting felt that it is more comfortable to wear the

same sports bra for exercise. According to the study in Chapter 4, the amount of the contact

pressure caused by the bra strap and the elastic bra band increases during movement, and that

at the bottom of the bra cup is reduced. Therefore, the change in perceived pressure exerted by

the bra cup is mainly caused by a decrease in the pressure value during running. As for the

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perceived pressure of the shoulder strap, a greater sense of safety and protection may be needed

during running, which can be provided by a higher-pressure value. Hence, the score of the

perceived pressure of the entire sports bra is increased.

Table 5.2 Mean scores and contact pressures

Mean scores of perceived

Bra component pressures Contact pressure (kPa)

Static Dynamic

Overall 6.5 ± 1.4 7.0 ± 1.7 NA

Shoulder strap 6.5 ± 2.1 8.0 ± 0.7 2.1 ± 0.9

Cup 6.0 ± 1.8 8.5 ± 0.7 0.7 ± 0.7

Elastic bra band 7.0 ± 1.5 7.0 ± 1.1 2.2 ± 1.3

Table 5.3 shows the correlation coefficients among the overall score of perceived pressure,

scores for the perceived pressure from the different parts of the bra, and the contact pressure

values in the static condition (significance at 0.05). The correlation coefficients were calculated

by using SPSS Statistics 25 (IBM, US).

Table 5.3 Correlation coefficients among overall score, scores for perceived pressure of

different parts of bra, and contact pressure values

Correlation coefficient

Pressure from strap 0.236

Pressure from bra band 0.561

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Pressure from bra cup -0.114

Scores of perceived pressures from shoulder 0.805

straps

Scores of perceived pressures from elastic bra 0.748

band

Scores of perceived pressures from bra cup 0.676

It can be easily observed in Table 5.3 that the correlation between the overall score and the

contact pressure from the elastic bra band is high compared to the contact pressure from the

other bra components. Also, the perceived comfort of the shoulder strap is affected the most in

the overall score. This result corresponds with the results of a study by Bowles, Steele and

Munro (2012) who found that the slipping of the bra straps down the shoulders or the digging

of bra straps into the shoulders is the most uncomfortable feature of sports bras. The results of

the ANOVA are shown in Tables 5.4 and 5.5 for the static and dynamic conditions respectively.

In the static condition, the contact pressure caused by the shoulder strap has a significant (p <

0.05 ) impact on the scores of perceived pressure from the bra cup. The contact pressure caused

by the bra cup has a significant influence on the scores of perceived pressures from the elastic

bra band and overall scores of perceived pressures. In the dynamic condition, the contact

pressure caused by the shoulder strap significantly affects the scores of perceived pressures

from the elastic bra band. Moreover, the contact pressure caused by the elastic bra band

significantly affects the scores of perceived pressures from the bra cup. The contact pressure

from the bra cup could significantly affect the scores of perceived pressures from the shoulder

strap (Wong, Li, & Zhang, 2004). Hence, the contact pressure from all of the bra components

can have impacts on the perceived pressure and should be considered in the design of sports

bras.

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Table 5.4 ANOVA table of influence of contact pressure on scores of perceived pressures in

static condition

Factor Attributive Sum of df Mean F Sig.

variable squares square

Pressure Overall Between 35.321 13 2.717 3.215 0.064

caused by scores of groups

strap perceived Within 5.917 7 0.845

pressures groups

Total 41.238 20

Scores of Between 71.351 13 2.717 2.597 0.105

perceived groups

pressures Within 14.792 7 0.845

from groups

shoulder Total 86.143 20

straps

Scores of Between 58.905 13 4.531 10.016 0.003

perceived groups

pressures Within 3.167 7 0.452

from bra groups

cup Total 62.071 20

Scores of Between 38.613 13 2.970 2.788 0.089

perceived groups

pressures Within 7.458 7 1.065

from groups

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elastic bra Total 46.071 20

band

Pressure Overall Between 30.613 15 2.041 0.960 0.570

caused by scores of groups

bra band perceived Within 10.625 5 2.125

pressures groups

Total 41.238 20

Scores of Between 64.976 15 4.332 1.023 0.537

perceived groups

pressures Within 21.167 5 4.233

from groups

shoulder Total 86.143 20

straps

Scores of Between 57.071 15 3.805 3.805 0.074

perceived groups

pressures Within 5.000 5 1.000

from bra groups

cup Total 62.071 20

Scores of Between 35.280 15 2.352 1.090 0.504

perceived groups

pressures Within 10.792 5 2.158

from groups

elastic bra Total 46.071 20

band

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Pressure Overall Between 35.256 12 2.938 3.929 0.030

caused by scores of groups

bra cup perceived Within 5.982 8 0.748

pressures groups

Total 41.238 20

Scores of Between 53.214 12 4.435 1.077 0.473

perceived groups

pressures Within 32.929 8 4.116

from groups

shoulder Total 86.143 20

straps

Scores of Between 46.714 12 3.893 2.028 0.161

perceived groups

pressures Within 15.357 8 1.920

from bra groups

cup Total 62.071 20

Scores of Between 40.732 12 3.394 5.086 0.014

perceived groups

pressure Within 5.339 8 0.667

from groups

elastic bra Total 46.071 20

band

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Table 5.5 ANOVA table of influence of contact pressure on scores of perceived pressures in

dynamic condition

Factor Attributive Sum of df Mean F Sig.

variable squares square

Pressure Overall Between 18.333 13 4.583 2.500 0.171

caused by scores of groups

bra strap perceived Within 9.167 7 1.833

pressures groups

Total 27.500 20

Scores of Between 12.500 13 3.125 5.000 0.054

perceived groups

pressures Within 3.125 7 0.625

from groups

shoulder Total 15.625 20

straps

Scores of Between 8.808 13 2.202 0.791 0.578

perceived groups

pressures Within 13.917 7 2.783

from bra groups

cup Total 22.725 20

Scores of Between 21.708 13 5.427 7.157 0.027

perceived groups

pressures Within 3.792 7 0.758

from groups

Total 25.500 20

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elastic bra

band

Pressure Overall Between 13.000 15 2.167 0.448 0.815

caused by scores of groups

bra band perceived Within 14.500 5 4.833

pressures groups

Total 27.500 20

Scores of Between 6.625 15 1.104 0.368 0.863

perceived groups

pressures Within 9.000 5 3.000

from groups

shoulder Total 15.625 20

straps

Scores of Between 21.600 15 3.600 9.600 0.045

perceived groups

pressures Within 1.125 5 0.375

from bra groups

cup Total 22.725 20

Scores of Between 12.500 15 2.083 0.481 0.796

perceived groups

pressures Within 13.000 5 4.333

from groups

elastic bra Total 25.500 20

band

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Pressure Overall Between 18.000 12 2.571 0.541 0.773

caused by scores of groups

bra cup perceived Within 9.500 8 4.750

pressures groups

Total 27.500 20

Scores of Between 15.458 12 2.208 26.500 0.037

perceived groups

pressures Within 0.167 8 0.083

from groups

shoulder Total 15.625 20

straps

Scores of Between 22.058 12 3.151 9.454 0.099

perceived groups

pressure Within 0.667 8 0.333

from cup groups

Total 22.725 20

Scores of Between 24.333 12 3.476 5.959 0.151

perceived groups

pressures Within 1.167 8 0.583

from groups

elastic bra Total 25.500 20

band

As it is difficult to accurately test the dynamic contact pressure and women usually feel more

comfortable with a sports bra, the analysis on the pressure comfort range focused on the static

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condition. In this study, most of the subjects did not try only one sports bra. Hence, there were

21 answered questionnaire and corresponding tested pressures. These were divided into three

groups: Group 1 (score higher than 8), Group 2 (score higher than 6 but less than 8) and Group

3 (score less than 6). The no. of conditions is shown in Table 5.6. To obtain the pressure comfort

value, the mean contact pressure values in the three groups were calculated, which are shown

in Table 5.7. There is clearly an increase in the contact pressure values with reduced scores of

perceived pressures. The significance is 0.05, so that a 95% confidence interval of the mean

contact pressure value on the shoulders is not less than 1.26 kPa and not more than 2.90 kPa.

A 95% confidence interval of the mean contact pressure value of the underarm is not less than

1.83 kPa and not more than 3.49 kPa. A 95% confidence interval of the mean contact pressure

value at the bottom of the bra cup is not less than 0.01 kPa and not more than 1.15 kPa

(Tsujisaka et al., 2004). Hence, it is important to use appropriate fabrics and sports bra designs

to adjust the contact pressure values towards a range that would be tolerable. The contact

pressure values in Group 3 are an uncomfortable range. The contact pressure on the shoulders

and underarm and at the bottom of the bra cup is in the range of 3.30 ± 1.55 kPa, 4.00 ± 1.41

kPa and 1.43 ± 1.02 kPa respectively and can cause discomfort.

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Table 5.6 No. of conditions in three groups

Contact pressure Group No. of conditions

Group 1 8

Pressure from bra strap Group 2 6

Group 3 7

Group 1 5

Pressure from bra band Group 2 11

Group 3 5

Group 1 12

Pressure from bra cup Group 2 6

Group 3 3

Table 5.7 Mean pressure values

Group 1 (kPa) Group 2 (kPa) Group 3 (kPa)

Pressure from bra strap 2.08 ± 0.82 2.83 ± 1.13 3.30 ± 1.55

Pressure from bra band 2.66 ± 0.83 3.27 ± 1.46 4.00 ± 1.41

Pressure from bra cup 0.58 ± 0.57 0.69 ± 0.79 1.43 ± 1.02

5.4 Conclusions

The relationship between the tested contact pressures (objective experimental data) and the

scores of perceived pressures (subjective perception) has been investigated and the tolerable

range of contact pressure is determined in this chapter. The scores of perceived comfort

increase from static (standing or sitting) to dynamic (running) conditions. As for the factors

that affect the level of comfort, the contact pressure in three positions, which are caused by the

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shoulder strap, elastic bra band and bra cup, could have significant influence on the comfort

level for the different parts of the bra and in different conditions. Therefore, the contact pressure

needs to be considered in the design of sports bras and the findings can be used to optimize

designs. A contact pressure on the shoulders, underarm and at the bottom of the bra cup of 2.08

± 0.82 kPa, 2.66 ± 0.83 kPa and 0.58 ± 0.57 kPa respectively is most tolerable. The optimum

contact pressure allows optimum fabrics for sports bras to be determined.

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Chapter 6 Prediction of contact pressure and dynamic displacement during running

6.1 Introduction

FE modelling has been successfully used with great accuracy to describe the biomechanical

behaviours of breasts and bra-breast interactions (see for example, Chen et al., 2013; Sun et al.,

2019a; Sun et al., 2019b). Although FE modelling provides detailed information and does not

require the involvement of human subjects, it is still computationally expensive and time

consuming in most cases. On the other hand, machine learning (ML) is currently used in a wide

variety of applications (Bottou et al., 2018; Atta et al., 2019; Huang et al., 2019). ML

algorithms can build a mathematical model with given data to make predictions without

background knowledge of the problem. That is, models trained to use ML algorithms based on

sample data can predict the desired quantities in real time with reasonably little bias and

variance. To further enhance efficiency, the ML approach is used in this study to investigate

the contact pressure from bra-breast interaction instead of the FE method or an FE model

because the modelling process requires hours or even days to calculate the information.

Nevertheless, FE modelling results of different female subjects are also presented in this

chapter to validate and compare the ML results. The generalisability of the results is therefore

ensured.

6.2 Finite element-based machine learning approach to predict contact pressure

Chapters 3 and 4 described in great detail the development of an FE model of the female body

and FE contact model between the body and sports bra. The contact conditions between a sports

bra and the body of a subject (S01) were simulated by using FE software, Marc 2014.2.0 (MSC

Software Corporation, US). The FE models provide good simulated results for the contact

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pressure between the sports bra and the female body. In this chapter, the data obtained by the

FE models are used to train an ANN model. The results are obtained under two conditions:

1) The FE model of the body is based on the same subject (a 50-year-old woman with a bra

size of 75D), and

2) The FE models of the sports bra are based on the same design, which is a vest-style sports

bra.

6.2.1 Dataset generation

ANN models require three sets of data: a training set, a validation set and a testing set. These

were prepared by applying the data from the FE models. The function of the training set is to

provide a set of data to fit every training example of the ANN. The validation set is used to

evaluate the ANN model when training is being carried out and halt the training if there are too

many errors. The testing set is used to evaluate the final ANN model. The testing:

validation:training ratio in this study is 70:15:15.

Four parameters were used which represent the four parts of a sports bra (shoulder strap, back

panel, bra cup, and elastic bra band). Five levels of each parameter were used to investigate the

effect of the different material properties of the sports bra fabrics, which provided 54 = 625 full

factorial experimental runs. Collecting the results of more than six hundred runs is very time

consuming because each FE modelling process takes hours, or even days to carry out.

Therefore, the Taguchi method is used to reduce the number of experiments because it is a

powerful statistical method that reduces the number of full factorial runs with the use of

orthogonal arrays (OAs). In this study, a standard OA with four parameters and five levels is

used, and 25 FE models are simulated to provide the training set for the ANN model. These

runs were carried out with different sets of parameters and for different levels. As the training

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set consisted of 70% of the sample data, ten more sets of data were needed, and of these ten,

five sets were calculated by using the tested elastic modulus of the five sports bra samples

whereas the other five sets were calculated with random material properties. Table 6.1 shows

the contact pressure at three locations on the sports bras which are obtained from the 35 FE

runs.

Table 6.1 Finite element parameters and results


Exp. no. FE parameters (MPa) FE results (KPa)

Contact
Contact
Young’s Young’s Young’s Young’s Contact pressure
pressure
modulus modulus modulus modulus pressure at
under
of bra of bra of back of bra on bottom
the
cup strap panel band shoulders of bra
arms
cup

1 0.2 2 1 1 1.230 0.2459 0.8607

2 0.2 4 2 2 1.349 0.2362 1.349

3 0.2 6 3 3 1.401 0.2802 1.401

4 0.2 8 4 4 1.612 0.3281 1.881

5 0.2 10 5 5 2.261 0.4230 1.938

6 0.4 2 2 3 2.034 0.3515 1.743

7 0.4 4 3 4 2.342 0.5313 2.342

8 0.4 6 4 5 2.623 0.5747 2.248

9 0.4 8 5 1 2.383 0.5983 1.589

10 0.4 10 1 2 2.705 0.4057 1.803

11 0.5 2 3 5 1.757 0.4562 2.109

125
12 0.5 4 4 1 2.126 0.5252 1.701

13 0.5 6 5 2 2.479 0.5361 1.983

14 0.5 8 1 3 2.979 0.4964 1.986

15 0.5 10 2 4 3.120 0.6201 2.080

16 0.6 2 4 2 1.936 0.5227 1.936

17 0.6 4 5 3 2.743 0.6428 2.400

18 0.6 6 1 4 3.018 0.5311 2.156

19 0.6 8 2 5 3.286 0.8286 2.300

20 0.6 10 3 1 2.775 0.6775 1.665

21 0.8 2 5 4 2.687 0.5375 2.687

22 0.8 4 1 5 2.730 0.6768 2.184

23 0.8 6 2 1 3.024 1.008 1.344

24 0.8 8 3 2 3.626 1.209 2.015

25 0.8 10 4 3 4.164 1.249 2.915

26 0.3344 2.3159 4.2027 1.5732 1.403 0.802 2.004

27 0.9626 1.8372 0.5973 3.0017 1.426 0.634 1.585

28 0.3101 7.2167 0.6363 2.5339 1.741 0.390 1.741

29 0.3597 5.8943 0.7771 1.7695 2.151 0.717 1.792

30 0.9474 1.3324 0.5502 0.9127 1.431 0.477 1.113

31 0.3100 1.8270 3.5000 1.5700 1.944 0.5326 1.166

32 0.3100 1.8270 0.4400 2.7500 2.322 0.5220 1.935

33 0.4000 7.2000 4.2000 3.0000 2.900 0.6451 2.250

34 0.3100 6.5000 0.4370 1.5700 2.100 0.4791 2.000

35 0.3100 5.5000 0.4370 1.5700 2.024 0.6287 1.214

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6.2.2 ANN structure

After analysing the characteristics and applicable ranges of different algorithms, a multilayer

neural network that uses a backpropagation algorithm was chosen to train the ANN. Three

widely used and efficient algorithms were considered; i.e., the Bayesian regularisation, scaled

conjugate gradient and Levenberg-Marquardt algorithms. The basic principles and

performance of each algorithm are described as follows.

6.2.2.1 Bayesian regularisation algorithm

The Bayesian regularisation algorithm updates the weights and bias values by minimising the

combination of squared errors and weights. The weights are considered to be random variables.

Then, the density function for the weights can by written based on Bayes’ rule:

𝑃𝑃�𝐷𝐷 �𝑤𝑤, 𝛽𝛽, 𝑀𝑀 �𝑃𝑃�𝐷𝐷 �𝑤𝑤, 𝛼𝛼, 𝑀𝑀 �


𝑃𝑃(𝑤𝑤|𝐷𝐷, 𝛼𝛼, 𝛽𝛽, 𝑀𝑀) = (6.1)
𝑃𝑃�𝐷𝐷 �𝛼𝛼, 𝛽𝛽, 𝑀𝑀 �

where α and β are objective function parameters; D represents the data set; M is the particular

neural network model used; and w is the vector of the network weights.

The optimal weights have a maximum posterior probability 𝑃𝑃(𝑤𝑤|𝐷𝐷, 𝛼𝛼, 𝛽𝛽, 𝑀𝑀), which is the same

as minimising the regularised objective function 𝐹𝐹 = 𝛽𝛽𝐸𝐸𝐷𝐷 + 𝛼𝛼𝐸𝐸𝑤𝑤 .

where 𝐸𝐸𝐷𝐷 is the sum of the squared errors and 𝐸𝐸𝑤𝑤 is the sum of the squares of the network

weights.

Based on this theory, the parameters can be solved with:

𝛾𝛾
𝛼𝛼 𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 = (6.2)
2𝐸𝐸𝑤𝑤 (𝑤𝑤 𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 )

𝑛𝑛−𝛾𝛾
𝛽𝛽𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 = (6.3)
2𝐸𝐸𝐷𝐷 (𝑤𝑤 𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 )

127
𝛾𝛾 = 𝑁𝑁 − 2𝛼𝛼 𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 𝑡𝑡𝑡𝑡(𝐻𝐻 𝑀𝑀𝑃𝑃 )−1 (6.4)

where H is the Hessian matrix of the objective function; 𝛾𝛾 is the effective number of

parameters; and N is the total number of parameters in the network. The optimal values are

obtained for 𝛼𝛼 and 𝛽𝛽 at the minimum point by setting them equal to zero. A detailed description

and derivation are given in Foresee & Hagan (1997).

Figure 6.1 Regression process of Bayesian regularization algorithm

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Figure 6.2 Performance of Bayesian regularization algorithm

Figure 6.1 shows the regression and R values with the Bayesian regularisation algorithm, and

Figure 6.2 shows its performance. It is evident that the Bayesian regularisation algorithm also

works well for this problem based on the two figures. The R value of all of the data is only

0.00018 which is less than that with the Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm (see below).

6.2.2.2 Scaled conjugate gradient algorithm

The scaled conjugate gradient algorithm is another efficient algorithm used in numerical

calculation and optimisation methods. This method uses a step size scaling mechanism, which

avoids a time-consuming line search for each learning iteration which is the case for the

Levenberg-Marquardt approach (Møller, 1993). This algorithm is an iterative method that is

used to numerically solve large scale linear and non-linear equations due to its high speed of

convergence and precision (Atkinson, 1988).

129
The process is as follows: solving a linear system 𝐴𝐴𝐴𝐴 = 𝑏𝑏 is equal to finding the minimum
1
value of the function 𝑓𝑓(𝑥𝑥) = 𝑥𝑥 𝑇𝑇 𝐴𝐴𝐴𝐴 − 𝑥𝑥 𝑇𝑇 𝑏𝑏. The residual of the kth step is 𝑟𝑟𝑘𝑘 = 𝑏𝑏 − 𝐴𝐴𝑥𝑥𝑘𝑘 . Then,
2

the conjugate vector 𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘 can be written as:

𝑝𝑝𝑖𝑖𝑇𝑇 𝐴𝐴𝑟𝑟𝑘𝑘
𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘 = 𝑟𝑟𝑘𝑘 − ∑𝑖𝑖<𝑘𝑘 𝑝𝑝𝑖𝑖 (6.5)
𝑝𝑝𝑖𝑖𝑇𝑇 𝐴𝐴𝑝𝑝𝑖𝑖

Then,

𝑥𝑥𝑘𝑘+1 = 𝑥𝑥𝑘𝑘 + 𝛼𝛼𝑘𝑘 𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘 (6.6)

𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘𝑇𝑇 𝑏𝑏 𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘𝑇𝑇 (𝑟𝑟𝑘𝑘 +𝐴𝐴𝑥𝑥𝑘𝑘 ) 𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘𝑇𝑇 𝑟𝑟𝑘𝑘


𝛼𝛼𝑘𝑘 = = = (6.7)
𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘𝑇𝑇 𝐴𝐴𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘 𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘𝑇𝑇 𝐴𝐴𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘 𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘𝑇𝑇 𝐴𝐴𝑝𝑝𝑘𝑘

Therefore, the advantages of this algorithm are high speed of convergence and precision, which

is suitable to solve large scale linear and nonlinear equations. (Atkinson, 1988)

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Figure 6.3 Regression process of Scaled conjugate gradient algorithm

Figure 6.4 Performance of Scaled conjugate gradient algorithm

131
Based on the two figures, it is evident that the Scaled conjugate gradient algorithm is not

suitable for this problem. The data points are relatively irregularly distributed, therefore the R

values shown in Figure 6.3 are relatively lower than those of the other two algorithms. The

regression curves shown in Figure 6.4 are not smooth for all the epochs, which means that there

may be a nonconvergence problem.

6.2.2.3 Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm

The Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm has both the advantages of Gauss-Newton algorithm and

gradient descent to find a local minimum. This algorithm was first proposed by a statistician in

the USA called Kenneth Levenberg, which was then rediscovered by another American

statistician, Donald Marquardt. In this algorithm, the Hessian matrix is approximated by using:

𝐻𝐻 = 𝐽𝐽𝑇𝑇 𝐽𝐽 (6.8)

Then, the gradient can be calculated with:

𝑔𝑔 = 𝐽𝐽𝑇𝑇 𝑒𝑒 (6.9)

where J is a Jacobian matrix that contains the first derivatives of the network errors with respect

to the weights and biases, and e is a vector of the network errors.

Through this approximation, the Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm can be written as:

𝑥𝑥𝑘𝑘+1 = 𝑥𝑥𝑘𝑘 − [𝐽𝐽𝑇𝑇 𝐽𝐽 + 𝜇𝜇𝜇𝜇]−1 𝐽𝐽𝑇𝑇 𝑒𝑒 (6.10)

where μ is a scalar. This scalar will decrease after a successful step (that is, there is a reduction

in performance function) (Hagan & Menhaj, 1994). This algorithm is very efficient in this way.

Figure 6.5 shows the regression and R values of each set of data. All of the R values are more

than 0.9, which points to a strong linear relationship. The performance of the Levenberg-

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Marquardt algorithm is shown in Figure 6.6 through a measure called the mean squared error

(MSE). Figure 6.6 shows the overall regression trend and the curves that are parallel to the base

line. The curves are relatively smooth, which proves that this algorithm avoids the problems of

non-convergence and trapping in the local minima. Therefore, this algorithm which is one of

the fastest and most mature backpropagation algorithms, shows a superior performance and

will be used to train the ML model in this study. Furthermore, the multilayer structure includes

an input layer of four nodes (the four inputs are the Young’s moduli of the four parts of the

sports bras), two hidden layers, and an output layer of three nodes (the predicted contact

pressure at three different locations on the sports bras), as shown in Figure 6.7.

Figure 6.5 Regression process of Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm

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Figure 6.6 Performance of Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm

Figure 6.7 ANNs structure

6.2.3 Validation

A comparison was made between the FE-simulated results and the ANN-predicted contact

pressure of all of the data sets. Table 6.2 shows the RMSEs between the FE and the ANN

results. The equation for the RMSE is shown as Equation (6.11). The RMSE values indicate

134
that there is only a small difference between the ANN and the FE results, especially for the

contact pressure on the shoulders.

1 𝑃𝑃𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹,𝑖𝑖 −𝑃𝑃𝐴𝐴𝐴𝐴𝐴𝐴,𝑖𝑖 2
RMSE =
𝑛𝑛
�∑𝑛𝑛𝑖𝑖=1( 𝑃𝑃𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹,𝑖𝑖
) (6.11)

where PFEM is the contact pressure calculated by using the FE method, PANN is the contact

pressure predicted by using ANN, and n is the number of sample data points.

Table 6.2 RMSE between FE and ANN results

Predicted contact pressure RMSE

Contact pressure on shoulders 0.0211

Contact pressure at the bottom of cup 0.0649

Contact pressure under the arms 0.0404

After the ANN model was established, obtaining all 625 sets of data or any desired result can

be simple and fast. Some of the ANN results were used to investigate the relationship between

the contact pressure and the elastic modulus of a sports bra, as shown in Figure 6.8. The plotted

information easily shows the effect of the elastic modulus of the shoulder strap, back panel, bra

cup, and elastic bra band on the contact pressure. The Young’s modulus of the other three parts

was selected at the same level (the highest or lowest level). It was found that the elasticity of

the shoulder strap and bra cup fabric have the greatest impact on contact pressure. However,

their impacts are reduced as the elastic modulus of the other three parts is reduced. The back

panel has basically no effect on the contact pressure. The elastic bra band effectively changes

135
the contact pressure under the arms. However, it has much less influence on the contact

pressure at the shoulders and bottom of the bra cup than the shoulder straps and cup fabric.

Hence, it is more important to choose relatively rigid fabrics for the shoulder straps and bra

cups when designing high-impact sports bras. When combined with research on the pressure

comfort of bras, the results obtained herein can directly be used as a guide for choosing sports

bra fabrics.

(a) Effect of elastic modulus of bra cups on contact pressure at three points (shoulders,

under the arms and bottom of bra cup)

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(b) Effect of elastic modulus of bra straps on contact pressure at three points (shoulders,

under the arms and bottom of bra cup)

(c) Effect of elastic modulus of back panel on contact pressure on shoulders, under the

arms and at bottom of bra cup

137
(d) Effect of elastic modulus of bra band on contact pressure at three points (shoulders,

under the arms and bottom of bra cup)

Figure 6.8 Effects of fabric of sports bra components with different elastic moduli

6.3 Finite element models of different subjects

After the successful simulation of the contact conditions between the sports bra and the body

of S01, FE contact models for the other subjects were then built. The number of meshes differs

between each FE model due to the differences in the geometric models and pre-processing

steps, which are provided in Table 6.3.

Table 6.3 Number of meshes of FE model of different subjects

No. of meshes
Subject
Bra Torso Body Breast

S02 25,496 128,360 129,656 57,700

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S03 33,662 176,482 167,104 68,758

S04 29,227 122,463 152,811 50,679

S05 19,496 105,098 116,784 30,272

S06 30,400 106,677 137,426 54,915

S07 22,366 119,965 132,759 54,866

S08 31,956 122,223 165,179 65,151

S09 28,330 114,340 134,670 39,530

S10 27,497 134,868 150,415 66,234

S11 36,769 129,644 173,188 61,732

S12 35,948 157,253 145,849 45,888

S13 26,915 112,622 153,270 61,966

S14 22,461 139,453 131,504 38,833

S15 30,678 122,644 161,538 74198

The material parameter for the FE models of the sports bra is the tested elastic modulus of

Sports Bra 5 as discussed in Chapter 4 because it is the simplest bra, and the geometric model

of the tested bra is most similar to Sports Bra 5. The contact pressure between the FE model of

the body of the fourteen other subjects and the sports bras was simulated by using the same

method which is to first shrink and then expand the model. The distribution of the contact

pressure of each subject is very similar; see Figure 6.9.

139
Figure 6.9 Distribution of contact pressure of different subjects

Due to the irregular shape of the model from the scanned images of the body and the complexity

of contact, it was challenging to conduct FE modelling of the contact between the sports bra

and different subjects. Hence, the meshes of the contact area were refined for most of the FE

contact models. The size of the meshes in the contact area is 4 mm and that of the other parts

is 6 mm. Figure 6.3 also shows that the meshes in the centre of the model are smaller except

for S15. This method improves the success rate of computation without incurring very much

additional computational time.

140
To further investigate the differences between the subjects, the contact pressure values of three

locations; that is, the shoulders, under the arms, and bottom of the bra cup, are simulated, which

are listed in Table 6.4.

Table 6.4 Simulated contact pressure of different subjects

Simulated contact pressure (kPa)

Subject Age Cup size Bottom of bra


Shoulders Under the arms
cup

S02 26 38C 1.2 0.9 0.9

S03 26 34C 1.3 1.1 0.7

S04 33 32C 1.0 0.8 0.6

S05 24 32B 1.9 1.5 1.0

S06 60 32C 1.3 1.1 0.9

S07 32 32B 1.3 1.1 0.6

S08 59 38D 1.9 1.7 0.9

S09 54 34C 2.5 1.9 1.1

S10 19 34D 1.1 0.9 0.6

S11 59 32C 2.0 1.6 0.8

S12 54 36C 0.9 0.7 0.4

S13 23 34D 1.1 2.0 1.0

S14 24 32B 1.9 1.5 1.0

S15 25 34C 2.0 2.1 0.8

141
Table 6.4 shows that the amount of contact pressure exerted by the same sports bra differs for

each subject. The largest difference is 1.5 kPa which is on the shoulders. There are no obvious

relationships among age, bra cup size and contact pressure. The correlation coefficients are

shown in Table 6.5 (significance level, 0.05).

Table 6.5 Correlation coefficients between contact pressure and subject particulars

Simulated contact pressure (kPa)


Subject Particulars
Shoulders Under the arms Bottom of bra cup

Age 0.263 0.031 0.005

Cup size 0.232 0.121 0.056

To investigate the effect of the elastic modulus of the different sports bra components on the

contact pressure that is shown in Figure 6.2, the other fourteen FE models of different subjects

were calculated with different elastic modulus of each part of the bra. Two different elastic

moduli (0.50 MPa and 1.33 MPa) were examined for the shoulder strap. The higher elastic

modulus causes the contact pressure at the three stated locations to increase significantly,

considering that the contact pressure is low. These changes validate previous findings.

142
(a) Change in contact pressure on shoulders (b) Change in contact pressure under the arms

(c) Change in contact pressure at bottom of bra cup

Figure 6.10 Change in contact pressure with increase in elastic modulus of bra strap

Similarly, two different elastic moduli of 0.50 MPa and 0.95 MPa were examined for the bra

cup. According to a previous finding, the elasticity of the bra cup fabric can greatly influence

the contact pressure. The changes in contact pressure as shown in Figure 6.10 are in agreement

with the predicted values from the relationship we discovered.

143
(a) Change in contact pressure on shoulders (b) Change in contact pressure under the arms

(c) Change in contact pressure at bottom of cup

Figure 6.11 Change in contact pressure with increase in elastic modulus of bra cup

Figures 6.10 and 6.11 both show that an increased elastic modulus of the shoulder strap and

bra cup can greatly change the contact pressure between the body and sports bra. To directly

shows the magnitude of the changes, Table 6.6 shows the amount of increase in contact

pressure with increases in the elastic modulus of the shoulder strap and bra cup.

144
Table 6.6 Increase in contact pressure with higher elastic modulus of bra strap and bra cup

Subject Location Change of contact pressure (%)

Increasing elastic modulus Increasing elastic modulus

of shoulder strap of bra cup

S02 Shoulders 16.7 16.7

Under arm 11.1 22.2

Bottom of bra cup 22.2 22.2

S03 Shoulders 23.1 38.5

Under arm 11.1 45.4

Bottom of bra cup 14.3 14.3

S04 Shoulders 20.0 20.0

Underarm 12.5 25.0

Bottom of bra cup 16.7 26.7

S05 Shoulders 21.1 26.3

Under arm 46.6 20.0

Bottom of bra cup 30.0 20.0

S06 Shoulders 38.5 23.1

Under arm 45.5 27.3

Bottom of bra cup 33.3 33.3

S07 Shoulders 30.8 38.5

Under arm 36.4 36.4

Bottom of bra cup 16.7 16.7

S08 Shoulders 21.1 10.5

Under arm 17.6 23.5

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Bottom of bra cup 22.2 33.3

S09 Shoulders 20.0 20.0

Under arm 21.1 26.3

Bottom of bra cup 36.4 36.3

S10 Shoulders 18.2 36.4

Under arm 22.2 33.3

Bottom of bra cup 16.7 33.4

S11 Shoulders 25.0 20.0

Underarm 12.5 18.8

Bottom of bra cup 12.5 12.5

S12 Shoulders 11.1 0

Under arm 14.3 14.3

Bottom of bra cup 25.0 25.0

S13 Shoulders 45.5 18.2

Under arm 25.0 25.0

Bottom of bra cup 40.0 40.0

S14 Shoulders 21.1 15.8

Under arm 13.3 20.0

Bottom of bra cup 33.3 20.0

S15 Shoulders 25.0 25.0

Under arm 23.8 23.8

Bottom of bra cup 37.5 25.0

The elastic modulus of the elastic bra band for all of the FE models increases by 0.50 MPa,

wherein half of the FE models showed a 0.1 kPa increase in pressure on the shoulders and at

146
the bottom of the bra cup, and 65% of the FE models showed a 0.1 kPa increase in pressure

under the arms. As for the effect of the back panel, 25% of the FE models showed a 0.1 kPa

increase in pressure on the shoulders and half of the FE models showed a 0.1 kPa increase in

pressure under the arms when the elastic modulus of the back panel for all of the FE models is

increased by 0.5 MPa. In other cases, the simulated contact pressure remains unchanged.

Therefore, these results, which are that the shoulder strap and bra cup can greatly influence the

contact pressure, while the back panel and elastic bra band do not have much influence the

contact pressure, can be used to specify the material parameters of each component of the sports

bra as they impact the amount of contact pressure on different subjects who differ in age, cup

size and BMI. They can also be regarded as generalised results that can guide the future design

of sports bras.

6.4 Conclusions

This chapter first provides a description of an FE model-based ML method to predict the

contact pressure between a sports bra and wearer. With appropriate material coefficients and

boundary conditions, the experimental results show that FE simulation can accurately calculate

the contact pressure between a sports bra and a human. Hence, the FE results can be used as

input data to establish an ANN model. ANNs are an effective tool for making predictions.

Specifically, the ANN results of the contact pressure, which applies the Levenberg-Marquardt

learning algorithm, are in good agreement with the corresponding FE results based on the

calculated RMSEs. Therefore, the prediction system discussed in this chapter can be used to

calculate the contact pressure between a sports bra and wearer within a limit of allowable errors.

The contact pressure between a sports bra and fourteen different subjects is then measured. The

distribution of the contact pressure is very similar in all of the FE models of the different

147
subjects. Moreover, the effect of the different components of the sports bra on the contact

pressure is based on the same result for all of the subjects, which is that the shoulder strap and

bra cup can greatly influence the contact pressure, while the back panel and elastic bra band do

not have much influence the contact pressure. These results can be directly used for selecting

sports bra materials, and positively benefit a large percentage of the female population

worldwide in terms of their bra needs for physical activities.

The concepts in this chapter have a limitation, which is the sports bra style. Both the FE and

ANN models are based on the same vest-style compression sports bra. Encapsulation sports

bras are also popular in the market and future works should consider other styles of sports bras.

148
Chapter 7 Conclusions and Recommendations for Future Work

7.1 Introduction

Wearing a sports bra is important for controlling movement of the breasts during physical

activities due to the substantial displacement which can cause much discomfort and even injury.

However, if a sports bra exerts excessive pressure onto the body of the wearer, she may also

feel uncomfortable. Therefore, this thesis has provided a nonlinear FEA to predict the

mechanical behavior of the female breasts when in contact with a compression sports bra with

a focus on the optimization of the fabric properties of the sports bra. The major achievements

and important findings in this study are summarized as follows.

7.2 Development of finite element models

Chapters 3 and 4 have systematically presented the methods and process of developing FE

models of the body and the contact between the female body and sports bras. The latter includes

a rigid torso, breasts with hyperelasticity and layers of subcutaneous tissues. A 3D laser

scanning experiment has been conducted to obtain the geometric models of the body. The

material properties of the breasts are determined through motion capture experiments of

running braless and free vibration of the breasts. The Mooney-Rivlin material coefficients of

the breasts are determined by examining the differences between the FE-modelled results and

experimental data, and the damping ratio is directly calculated from the free-vibration test data.

The FE contact model of the body and sports bra is built by using a method which first shrinks

and then expands the model to avoid the penetration problem. This method has four steps: a)

first, the size of the original model of the body and bra is geometrically reduced; b) the model

149
of the body is then reduced, during which the gap between the models of the body and the

sports bra is noted; c) subsequently, the model of the body is geometrically expanded by adding

a thermal expansion property, which means that the volume increases with temperature; and d)

finally, a gravity load is applied to the breasts. In the static analysis, the simulated contact

pressure values are in agreement with the results of the contact pressure tests. In terms of the

distribution of contact pressure, the highest contact pressure is found on the shoulders which is

caused by the shoulder strap, and under the arms which is caused by the elastic bra band. The

highest contact pressure exerted by the bra cup is found at the bottom of the bra cup. In the

dynamic analysis, the displacement of breasts is investigated and analysed based on contact

with the sports bra. The calculated RMSEs from the results of the FE model and experiments

show that the contact model can predict the contact conditions with good accuracy. A modal

analysis has also been conducted by using the FE models and the corresponding natural

frequencies are calculated. The natural frequencies of the breasts with a sports bra are found to

be much higher than those of the braless condition, which confirms the necessity of wearing a

sports bra.

7.3 Pressure comfort evaluation of sports bra

Chapter 5 presents the relationship between the contact pressure and scores of perceived

comfort and pressure comfort range. The results are determined by using objective

experimental data and subjective perceptions. The objective experimental data are the tested

contact pressure at three positions (on the shoulders and underarm and at the bottom of the bra

cups) by using Novel Pliance-X pressure sensors. Furthermore, the subjective perceptions of

the bras are derived from a questionnaire that focused on how the subjects felt about the sports

bra samples. The relationship between these two results is investigated in both static and

150
dynamic conditions by using a statistical analyses, which are correlation coefficient and

ANOVA.

The statistical analyses showed that the overall score for perceived comfort is strongly

influenced by the contact pressure at the underarm and the shoulder strap affects the perceived

comfort the most in the overall score. The static and dynamic conditions provide different

findings. In the static condition, the contact pressure on the shoulders caused by the shoulder

straps has a significant (p < 0.05 ) impact on the scores of perceived pressure from the bra

cup. The contact pressure at the bottom of the bra cup has a significant impact on the scores of

perceived pressure from the elastic bra band and overall scores of perceived pressure. In the

dynamic condition, the contact pressure on the shoulders from the shoulder straps significantly

affects the scores of perceived pressure from the elastic bra band. The contact pressure at the

underarm significantly affects the scores of perceived pressure from the bra cup. Finally, the

contact pressure at the bottom of the bra cup significantly affects the scores of perceived

pressure from the shoulder strap. As for the range of pressure comfort, the optimum contact

pressure or most tolerable amount of pressure on the shoulders and underarm and at the bottom

of the bra cup are in the ranges of 2.08 ± 0.82 kPa, 2.66 ± 0.83 kPa and 0.58 ± 0.57 kPa

respectively.

7.4 Prediction of contact pressure between sports bra and body

An FE model-based ML method to predict the contact pressure between the sports bra and

body is described in Chapter 6. The data to train an ANN model are obtained from the FE

results. Three backpropagation algorithms are then taken into consideration, but the Levenberg-

Marquardt algorithm has the best performance. In addition, the ANN results of the contact

151
pressure, which uses the Levenberg-Marquardt learning algorithm, are in good agreement with

the corresponding FE results based on the calculated RMSEs.

The contact pressure exerted onto the body of the other subjects by the sports bra is also

calculated in Chapter 6. The distribution of the contact pressure is very similar in all of the FE

models of the different subjects. The effect of the different components of the sports bra on the

contact pressure is then investigated, and it is found that the shoulder strap and bra cup can

greatly influence the contact pressure, while the back panel and elastic bra band do not

influence the contact pressure very much.

7.5 Limitations and future work

While there are important findings in this study, there are also some limitations of the work

done. First, there is the small number of subjects and the sports bra style used is limited. The

sample involves fifteen female subjects, and only one style of compression sports bra (vest

style) is considered and analysed. Therefore, the results of the FE analysis and ML models are

only applicable for vest-style compression sports bras. Future work needs to involve more or

other types of female subjects and different styles of sports bras, such as encapsulation sports

bras.

In addition, the FE models of the female body have been simplified in this study. The structure

of the female breasts is highly complex and has many different components. The FE models of

the breasts are however assumed to be homogeneous for less time costly pre-processing and

modelling calculations. The development of more complex FE models of the breasts that

include different components, such as fat and Cooper’s ligaments, are recommended to be

carried out in future studies. The material properties of each component should also be

determined.

152
Moreover, the displacements of the breast are represented by the displacements of the nipple,

instead of the entire breast. The movement with the different positions of the breast is slightly

different during physical activities due to the complex structure of the breasts. Therefore,

reflective markers should be placed in other positions or areas of the breast during the motion

capture experiment to record the movement of the entire breast in future studies.

Finally, contact pressures between the sports bras and subjects’ bodies at only three positions

have been considered. It was not enough for the design of a sports bra. For instance, how much

pressure the subjects’ backs can bare is also a question worth being analysed.

153
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