11th Issue Vol. 2 No.

8 ISSN 2094-1765 August 2009

BASICS IN LANDSCAPING YOUR GARDEN

A landscaped exhibit booth during the Flora Filipina Expo at Quezon City Hall.

Beautifully landscaped gardens are now popular settings these days in the metropolis. A
lot of commercial establishments such as hotels, shopping malls, resorts, and restaurants utilize
a well-defined landscape to attract clients. House owners with spacious front and backyards
usually establish landscapes to beautify their homes. Even public parks, memorial parks, and
golf courses utilize plants in their landscapes to make their surroundings aesthetically tasteful.

Landscaping in laymen’s term refers to any activity that modifies the visible features of an
area of a land. It is the art and science of designing and managing the outdoor space to create an
environment that is highly suitable to the biological and physiological well-being of man. As a
science, landscaping involves technical knowledge for the selection, arrangement, and growing of
plants. As an art, it requires skills for sculpturing the biological and non-biological materials into a
single and beautiful living ecosystem.

Primarily, landscaping aims to achieve beauty, privacy, and pleasure with the use of
ornamental plants as its main component. Trees, shrubs, vines, ground covers, and herbaceous
perennials are utilized in a creative manner to beautify an outdoor space as they blend with other
existing hardscapes like sculptures, monument, buildings, bridges, boulders, and other structures.

In addition to his, it also involves the proper installation of lighting and plumbing fixtures,
drainage canals, appropriate footpath, rain shelters, barriers, or erosion control fixtures.

1
 Landscaping is not limited to achieve beauty alone. The ornamental plants are the key
elements used in landscaping and impart other functions that we usually not notice.

Owing to the beauty they bring, plants spare an element of satisfaction, relaxation, and
delight to human beings. A simple arrangement of plants can alter the surrounding and render it
more beautiful because of its inherent aesthetic and architectural qualities. But such designed
environments are not just pretty. The plants in the landscape also add functionality by modulating
temperature, abating noise, reducing glare, and increasing privacy and security. In this manner, a
beautiful surrounding imparts a sense of peace, harmony, and tranquillity to man.

How to Landscape with Ornamentals

Landscaping is not as simple as it seems. Since landscaping is also a field of science, it

involves processes that must be followed and a group of experts to perform the task. However,
for small gardeners and also for starters who are really eager to learn, here are some few tips.

1. Identify first the function of the area. Make up your mind on what purpose will be the area will
be for? Will children be playing? Will it be an activity area wherein you will accept guests? Is
it a private personal place where only you and members of the family meet? Will you also do
laundry in the area or will it be a passage area? Would you like to hide unsightly views?

2. Prepare a Landscape Design. Have on paper a complete drawing, planning, and designing of
an envisioned concept for a certain area. For example, you are to landscape your garden,
have first on paper the location of existing structures like posts, trees, bushes, pathway and
other structures. Then draw the appearance of physical structures you are going to use,
example, driftwoods, boulders, sculptures, benches or tables, then incorporate the plants.
Will be there earth moving activities or digging for drainage canals? Will the landscape be
flat or multi-story or three-dimensional? Will there be a small pond? With this, you need to
identify what plants you’re going to use, the specific names, including their cultural
requirements. You might also need to visit a garden center to scout for available plants.

3. After the materialization of the drawing of the design, is now the implementation process.
Landscape design implementation is the development or creation of the landscape. In this
stage, the preparation of the site (cleaning or clearing), planting of the selected ornamentals,
installation of hardscapes, and construction of the landscape as a whole will be worked out.
For large projects, you might need the services of a landscape horticulturist or an engineer to
be in charge in this phase. A desired plant cannot be simply picked up and included in a
landscape. Plants have their own cultural requirements that support their growth and survival.

A small pocket garden of about 3 x 3 meters or larger maybe a good project for starters in order
to practice your landscaping skill. One may also view some of the landscape designs during
orchid and garden shows, or by visiting some garden design landscapes in some homes in order
to get fresh ideas for the garden.

The growth, habit, water, sunlight, and nutrient requirements are some of the few things
considered in selecting plants to be included in the landscape. For example, Ferns, some
Orchids, Sansevieras, Aglaonemas, Dieffenbachias and Philodendrons could thrive better under
the shade. On the other hand, San Francisco, Bougainvilleas, Euphorbias and Calachuchi prefer
being planted under the sun where they can grow better. Thus, it is very important for the
landscaper to be familiar with the plants to use for a particular area.

After the plants have established and developed, landscape maintenance is needed to maintain
aesthetic value of the envisioned design. Landscape maintenance is the art of keeping a
landscape healthy, safe and attractive with the use of various tools, pieces of equipment,
supplies, and skills. This includes the watering of plants, fertilization, pruning, pest and disease

2
management, mulching, and edging. A poorly maintained landscape will do little to stimulate
public belief in their value or necessity. Poor maintenance practices, even for a short period, can
destroy much of the beauty of the landscaped area.

Practically, a garden is a dynamic venue wherein plants grow and change through the season.
One has to adjust with the design the plants as some parts of the garden grows (e.g. a small tree
becomes a large shady tree) and change. The choice of plants primarily depends on the garden
owner and the aesthetic beauty it provides to the beholder. The skill of landscape designing also
change as new trends arise or preferred. So, why not start with your garden?

GROWING PITCHER PLANTS

by Norberto R. Bautista

Pitcher plants are one type of carnivorous plants which can be successfully grown in your
garden. Carnivorous plants are properly called “insectivorous plants”, as they prefer to trap
insects, and are not like the imaginary notion of a flesh-hungry creeping plant monsters.

One common species is Nepenthes alata, which is found in Philippine forests and also
widespread within the southeast Asian region. The genus name Nepenthes came from the Greek
words: ne, meaning “not” and penthos, “grief:, meaning “without grief” as it was mentioned in
Homer’s Odyssey in which the plant was given to Helen by an Egyptian queen as a drug that
quells all sorrows with forgetfulness. Pitcher plants are certainly wonderful botanical specimen
plants to behold, with its colorful and strange pitcher-like, insect trapping appendages.

Pitcher plants are locally called Pitsel-Pitselan in

Tagalog, Condom plants or Monkey Cups (as plant
collectors see monkeys occasionally drinking the fluid
in the pitchers). The plant group which belongs to
the Nepenthaceae plant family, is composed of about
120 species of vine-forming plants, distributed in
South China, Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines,
Madagascar, the Seychelles, Australia, New
Caledonia, India and Sri Lanka. Nepenthes are
shallow rooted prostate or climbing vines, and may
attain a length of about several meters long. Leaf-
like expanded petioles arises from the stem, ending
in a tendril, which aids the plant in climbing. The
pitcher, which is considered its true leaf, forms at the
end of the tendril. The pitcher is actually a leaf
modification and are swelling of the mid-vein in the
leaf. Insects are attracted to this structure because of
the nectar secretions and coloration. Pitchers ranges
in size and color of green, yellow and red. This leaf
modification is an insect trap and supplies the plant
with added nourishment from insects prey as the
plant thrives in nutrient deficient locations. Prey are
not totally limited to insects, as some large species of
pitcher plants can trap rats and lizards.

The common Nepenthes alata

The insect traps contain a fluid, either watery or syrupy, and is manufactured by the plant
itself. The fluid is slippery in consistency to prevent the escape of the prey and is intended to
drown the prey. The trapping efficiency of this fluid remains high, even when significantly diluted

3
by rain water. The lower portion of the trap contains glands which absorb nutrients from the dead
decaying prey. Along the upper inside part of the trap is a slick waxy coating which makes the
escape of its prey nearly impossible.

The slippery rim (peristome or “lip”) is

slippery and colorful, offering unsure footing, and
attracting insects to fall into the digestive fluid at
the bottom of the trap. Trapped insects are
actually drowned and nutrients are absorbed
from this “soup”. Above the peristome is a lid
(operculum), which in most species keeps the
rain from diluting the fluid within the pitcher, the
underside of which may contain nectar glands
used as a bait for prey.

Cultural Requirements for Pitcher Plants:

Light – Pitcher plants grows in diffused

bright light (about 50% light). Protect it from
direct sun, . to avoid scorching of leaves. They
can be grown with other shade loving orchids
like Phalaenopsis and ferns.

Watering & Humidity – Water plants

regularly and do not allow them to dry out
completely. They can benefit from moist media
Red colored Nepenthes like these are and occasional flooding to wash away any
a collector’s item in the plant world. accumulated salts. Use soft water such as rain
water, distilled or purified water. Tap water can be
used as long as the water is low in salts. Low
level chlorine does not seem to be problem. Provide a humid environment by grouping Pitcher
plants along with other shade loving plants and watering them regularly. They usually stop
making pitchers when humidity is low. They can also be grown in terrariums (the small species),
or inside clear plastic bags for added humidity. Allow ventilation and air-movement between
plants at all times to prevent rotting of leaves. As much as possible, always add a little water to
the pitchers, about ½ or ¾ its length to avoid drying up.

Temperature. Nepenthes are grouped into the low-land species and the high-land
species. Lowland types are more tolerant to lower humidity, warmer conditions and are usually
easier to grow than the highland types. The highland types prefer a much cooler night time
temperature and higher humidity.

Potting Technique – Plant pitcher plants in plastic pots with any porous and low-fertility
mixes like mixture of charcoal, coconut husk cubes, sphagnum moss, tree fern fiber and paslak
(chopped roots of Birds nest fern). The media should be well drained and open enough so that
air reaches the roots. Repot if the media breaks down, or when the plants needs a bigger pot.
They are usually potted as a hanging plant. Tapping or vibrating the pot is a good way to settle
down the media around the roots, but avoid pushing the media down as it can damage the plants’
fine roots. Water well after repotting.

Fertilization. Pitcher plants are light feeders. It is not recommended to use control
release fertilizers in the pots as it may burn the roots. If plants are being grown on areas where
they cannot trap insects, spraying of very dilute balanced orchid fertilizer, about 1/8 teaspoon per
galloon water once every week is sufficient. Another way is to add the fertilizer solution in its
pitchers at about ¾ filled. For most plant hobbyists, one can occasionally add a small insect such

4
as a fly, a cockroach or a dead cricket into the mature pitchers, however this is not normally
needed.

Pruning. Pitchers and leaves die naturally as the plant grows. Dead or dried parts need
to be trimmed off. Nepenthes are vines, thus it is suggested that green stems be pruned back to
encourage side shoots and to produce fuller plants, however, avoid pruning off more than 30 % of
its foliage. Vines can be trained up on stakes, on wires or in hanging baskets. If plants fail to
produce pitchers, increase humidity.

Pest & Diseases. Most plants has not much pest. However, if insect infestation occurs,
spray with a dilute solution of insecticide like Malathion or Lannate. To prevent leaf spots, allow
ventilation among plants, allow proper spacing and keep plants dry between watering. For
outbreak of fungal diseases, spray with a weak solution of Captan or Dithane.

Propagation. In nature, pitcher plants are propagated by seeds. Male and female
flowers are borne on racemes or in panicles on shoot tips of separate plants. Winged seeds
numbering 10-60 or more are produced in four-sided capsules and they are dispersed by wind.
Seeds may be sown on damp chopped sphagnum moss or in sterile plant tissue culture media
(similar to how orchids are mass produced). Seeds generally become non-viable soon after
harvesting, thus, seeds are not actually the preferred mode of propagation. Another way is to use
shoot tip cuttings and they maybe rooted in damp sphagnum moss in a clear plastic bag or
enclosed in a covered aquarium tank with high humidity and moderate lighting. Cuttings start to
root in 1-2 months, and can start to form pitchers after 6 months. Plant tissue culture technology
is now used in the commercial mass propagation of selected Nepenthes species and this helps to
reduce the direct collection of plants from the wild. Efficient propagation techniques also makes
rare species available and affordable to plant hobbyists and collectors.

Conservation is needed for this group of plants as Nepenthes are considered threatened
or endangered and are listed in Appendix 1 and 2 of CITES.

GROWING AND MAINTAINING A MANGO TREE

Taken from the Department of Agriculture Website

The Philippines is known for its mango fruits, specifically Carabao mangoes. This fruit
tree is widespread in the country, also grown in the metropolis. Thus, one can maintain a tree
and sustainably induce it to flower and fruit per season for family consumption.

Aside from the popular Carabao variety, other varieties includes the Pico, and
Katchamita. In the Philippies, there are a lot of varieties available.

The Carabao or Manila Super Mango originated from India, Burma and Malaya. It is best
served as a fresh fruit. It has a perfect blend of sweetness and sourness, succulent, and has a
pleasant aroma. It is fleshy and yellow when ripe, very tender, melting in the mouth and less
fibrous.

The Pico on the other hand. originated from India, Burma and Malaya. It is maller than
the carabao variety, and its fruit is kidney shaped with round apex and base, which is more,
flattened. Light yellow orange when ripe, thick and tough. Has fibrous orange to yellow orange
flesh. It is sweeter than the carabao variety but not melting.
.
The Katchamita originated from India and commonly known as India Mango. Skin is
green and flesh is yellowish. It has a distinctive flavor.
.

5
 CULTURAL PRACTICES

Land Preparation.
Mango seeds are usually pre-
germinated in a seed bed or a
small pot with soil. For backyard
planting, the land is prepared by
simply digging a hole wide and
deep enough to accommodate
the ball of soil that goes with the
seedling.. Ideally, mango trees
requires fertile, deep and friable
soil. If the soil is poor, dig big,
deep holes with a diameter of
30-50 cm. Set aside the top soil
to be used to re-fill the hole after
planting or transplanting.

For orchard planting in

flat or slightly rolling terrain, plow
the field as deep as possible
and harrow the field twice until
fine tilt is attained before the
onset of the rainy season. To
accommodate other cultural
activities and to ensure straight
alignment of trees, layout the
field using the desired planting
system such as, square,
quincunx, or triangular system.

In planting the seedling,

carefully remove the plant
material from its container and set it in the hole. Fill the extra space with topsoil or compost.
Preferably do this activity at the onset of rain. If planted in the backyard, choose a sunny area
and water the plant everyday in order for it to be established.

Irrigation / Watering. Mango trees need water during the flowering and the fruiting
stages, which coincide with the dry season. Water increases the number of fruits per panicle and,
also, minimizes fruit drop. Irrigation can be coupled with moisture conservation practices such as
mulching, maintaining good vegetation between rows, and shallow cultivation.

Mulching. Mulch the base of the tree with dried grass or weeds, or other suitable
mulching materials to restrict weed growth, maintain relatively low temperature and prevent
excessive loss of soil moisture. Dense mulches are effective means of reducing weed infestation.

Fertilization. Necessary to stimulate early growth and rapid development of young fruit
bearing trees. For one-year-old trees, apply 200-300 grams complete fertilizer in two equal doses
per tree. For older trees, mix 300-500 grams complete fertilizer and 200-300 grams of urea per
tree. Split the recommended dosage in two, apply at the start and before the end of the rainy
season. Organic fertilizers like fully decomposed animal manure or decomposed plant wastes
can also be used as ferttilizers.

For bearing trees, apply 1.5-2.5 kilogram complete fertilizer per tree. The usual method of
applying fertilizer to young and bearing trees is to dig 10-15 holes or use the ring method of

6
fertilizer application by digging a canal around the base of the tree, approximately 3-5 inches
deep following the tree canopy. The fertilizer is then placed into the hole and covered with soil.

Flower Induction. Flower induction using calcium nitrate or potassium nitrate is usually
done for Carabao Mangoes. However there are also other means of flower induction.

SMUDGING - Make smokey fire below the tree canopy and allow smoke to pass through
the foliage for several days. To produce heavy smoke, place green grasses on top of combustible
materials such as dry leaves and coconut husks. It is done continuously for several days.
Discontinue when no flowers appear after two weeks. Repeat this process one-month to two
months after.

CHEMICAL INDUCTION - The more reliable method of inducing off-season flowering is

by spraying with potassium nitrate. Besides being effective, potassium nitrate is cheaper and
forces mangoes to flower more uniformly. Application rate is 10 grams per liter of water. Spray
toward the leaves evenly from the top downward to the bottom of the canopy.

Bagging/Wrapping – This technique is done in commercial plantations to protect fruits

from insect pests. This is done if the Mango fruits are already as big as chicken's egg 55-60 days
after induction. Wrap the fruits with sturdy materials to resist rain and strong winds. The wrapping
bag should be big enough to allow room for fruit development. Its bottom portion should be closed
to prevent mango and seed borers from laying its eggs at the apex of the fruit.

Pruning. This is usually done after harvest to prepare the tree for the next bearing
season. Pruning helps increase fruit production, improve quality of fruits, attain desired size and
shaped of crown, eliminate undesirable branches and achieve dwarfing effect to enable the trees
to be resistant to lodging.

CONTROLLING MANGO PEST AND DISEASES

1. Mango Hopper -- This insect pest sucks the plant sap that results in withering and drying of
tender shoots, inflorescence and very young fruits. Leaves which exudes sweet sticky fluids in
affected plant parts promotes development of fungus called sooty mold. This can be controlled
spraying the recommended chemicals starting from fruit formation to fruit development.

2. Mango Tip Borers – This pest damage shoots and usually shoots wilt and the terminal parts
die. Affected panicles break and flowers shed off. Borers can be controlled by pruning dead
branches 1 foot lower than the damaged portion and burning the cut portions to kill the grub
inside.

3. Twig Cutters – This pest is very destructive during the dry season and reduces the number of
flowers formed. It is characterized by the presence of dead twigs and leaves in the canopy. This
pest in controlled similar to the Mango Tip Borer.

4. Oriental Fruit fly -- The insect pest lay eggs on the fruit skin, which later becomes easy entry
for rots and maggots, which feed on the fruit flesh. The mango seed borer eats not only the flesh
but also the seed of the fruit. This pest can be controlled by bagging or wrapping the fruit when
its size is as big as chicken's egg. Harvest fruits when matured green to prevent infestation.
Spraying of vermi-tea solution is one possible solution in controlling this insect pest.

5. Mealy Bugs – This tiny pest attacks newly flushed leaves, flowers and fruits by sucking vital
plant sap. Affected parts turn yellow, dry up and eventually fall. This can be controlled by
removing of infested fruits, flowers, or leaves from the tree and spraying with a pesticide.

7
NOTE: Soapy solution of Perla Soap or other detergents can be regularly sprayed on the mango
tree on a regular basis to control insect pests. The soapy solution clogs spiracles of insects
which later kills them.

DISEASES MANGO & THEIR CONTROL.

1. Anthracnose
Symptoms: Shot holes appear on mature leaves. The most serious fungal disease of mango
which causes major damage during flowering up to fruit setting and again after, harvest. Upon
ripening of fruit, circular brown to black spots appears resulting to fruit rot.
Control: Spray the recommended chemicals from floral bud formation to fruit development. Dip
ripe fruits in hot water.

2. Scab
Symptoms: Grayish-brown spots on the fruits with crack at the center and becomes corky.
Control: Use the same control measures as in anthracnose.

3. Diplodia Stem-end Rot

Symptoms: Grayish violet to light brown lesion at the stem-end of the fruit that later turns black.
Control: Wash fruits with copper fungicide suspension.

HARVESTING, HANDLING, STORING AND GRADING

Do not harvest mangoes before 120 days from induction. If mangoes are for export,
maturity index is needed. Fruits are either picked by hand or by means of a net attached to the
end of a bamboo pole with a loop or knife at the end. Sort out immature, undersize, damaged
and diseased fruits during grading. Fruits are graded according to variety, size, weight or
diameter. Bamboo baskets lined with newspapers are used for packing mangoes intended for
local markets. For export, the mangoes are placed either in wooden crates or carton boxes. If
necessary, mangoes should be stored at 9-10 degrees Centigrade. Ripe mangoes at this
temperature can be stored for 18-21 days while freshly matured fruits for 23-26 days.

PROPAGATION OF MANGO TREES.

One simple way of propagating Mango Trees (like the Carabao mango) is by grafting.
The advantage derived from this method is early fruiting of the tree and the specific knowledge of
what variety the plant will bear. It is the surest way of perpetuating the desirable characteristics of
parent plants and good qualities of the fruit. Grafting is making use of the plant's scion and
connecting it to its own kind. One tip to be considered to attain better production is that the young
scion must come from the tree proven to bear good quality fruits and the stock to be used should
be healthy, vigorous and disease free. It is the scion that will bear fruits and not the stock where
the scion is connected.