A Project Report on

Component
Construction of a Welted Leather
Unit Sole

















Submitted to: Submitted by:
Prof. Vikas Tewatia -Zebunisa Moti
Prof. Ravi Shankar PGFT-13



Acknowledgement

Through this acknowledgment, I express my sincere gratitude to all
those people who have been associated with this assignment and have helped
me with it and made it a worthwhile experience.
Firstly I extend my thanks to the various people who have shared their
opinions and experiences through which I received the required information
crucial for my report.
Finally, I express our thanks to Prof. Vikas Tewatia & Prof. Ravi
Shankar who gave me this opportunity to learn the subject in a practical
approach and who guided me and gave me valuable suggestions regarding the
project report.

- Zebunisa Moti
PGFT-13


Index

Sr.No. Topic Page no.
1. About Welted Leather Unit Sole 1
2. Product Specification 1
3. Sequence of operation 2
4. Area required 4
5. No. of m/c 5
6. Factory layout 5
7. Optimum manpower requirement 6
8. Inventory 7
9. Costing 8
10. Conclusion 9
















About Welted Leather Unit Sole
The welt is a strip of leather which is sewn around the bottom edge of a shoe. This
stitching (the welt seam) attaches the welt to both the insole and the upper of the shoe. The
welt is folded out to form a point of attachment for the outer sole. The outer sole (two layers
can be used in heavier shoes) is sewn to the welt, with a heavy-duty lock-stitch seam.
Crucially, this stitching runs around the outside of the sole (rather than piercing the
part under the foot) to maximise the soles water-resistance.

Product Specification:
Type of sole- Welted leather unit sole
Soling material- V.T leather (Indian)
Size- 6,7,8
Quantity- 500 pairs/ day
Coloured bottom- Brown
Heel type- Leather heel
Heel Specification- Height: 20mm
No. of lifts: 4
Material of top-piece- Rubber
Top-piece: full rib
Specification of sole- Thickness: 4mm
Stapling placement: 5-6 mm from the edges
Type of decoration: Track
No. of staples or nails: 6
Welt material- V.T. leather
Thickness of the sole- 4mm


Sequence of operations for making a Welted Leather Unit Sole:

1. Cutting of leather- V.T leather is cut of the appropriate size from the
appropriate die as per customers specification.

2. Splitting- It is done to uniform the thickness of the sole.

3. Levelling & Roughing- This process is done to raise the fibres for proper
bonding.

4. Edge Pre-Trimming- It is done to trim the edges as per customers
specification & compact the fibres which were loose during cutting.

5. Decoration- It is done as per customers specification on grain side for
enhanced look.

6. Stamping- This process involves name, symbol, & size of the sole.

7. Edge Inking- It is done on the edges for finished look as per the colour of
the shoe.
8. Sole- Seat Roughing- It involves roughing the sole set area for proper
attachment of the heel.

9. Welt Attachment- A welt (leather, rubber, plastic, etc. as per customers
specification) is attached on grain side of the sole.

10. Heel Preparation- Cutting heel from V.T leather or masonite as per
customers specification of the given size.

a. Heel Breast Buffing with fine emery- Forming a heel breast &
snuffing it to make the surface smooth.

b. Heel Cupping- Forming a cup on flesh side of the heel so that it is
firmly attached on the sole.

c. Heel Breast colouring & finishing- Colouring the sole as per
customers specification matching the edges of the sole.

11. Heel Attachment- The finished heel is attached using adhesive with the
sole.

12. Heel Pressing & Nailing- The sole & heel are then attached with nail or
stapled to create a permanent bond.

13. Heel Scouring- This process involves reducing the extra edges from the
heel so that it is matched with the size of the sole.

14. Heel Colouring- The finished heel is then coloured on the edges matching
the colour of the sole.

15. Final Finishing & Brushing- The finished product is then brushed with
cotton cloth brush & woollen brush to give the sole a shiny & finished
look.

16. Quality checking & packing- Finally checking the quality of the sole &
packing it.



















Area required for factory set-up:
The area required to set up a factory for manufacturing welted leather unit
sole is 896sq.ft. This area will include:
Inventory room- 7*6= 42sq.ft
Die rack- 1*2= 2sq.ft
Travelling head cutting press- 2*4= 8sq.ft
Splitting M/c- 2*2= 4sq.ft
Levelling & Roughing M/c- 3*2= 6sq.ft
Edge Pre-trimming M/c- 2*2= 4sq.ft
Decoration m/c- 3*1= 3sq.ft
Stamping m/c- 3*1= 3sq.ft
Edge Inking m/c-2*1= 2sq.ft
Buffing & Snuffing M/c- 3*2= 6sq.ft
Adhesive application table- 2*1= 2sq.ft
Drying table- 3*1= 3sq.ft
Heel Pressing m/c- 2*1= 2sq.ft
Heel attachment- 2*1= 2sq.ft
Heel Scouring m/c- 3*2= 6sq.ft
Finishing m/c-4*4= 16sq.ft
Table- 2*1= 2sq.ft
Finished goods room- 6*7= 42sq.ft
Managers cabin- 7*2= 14sq.ft
Generator room- 7*4= 28sq.ft
Extra space for movement- 699sq.ft













No. of machines required with justification:
There would be 13 machines required for manufacturing welted leather
unit sole namely:
1. Travelling Head cutting press one m/c is required as capacity of THCP
m/c used is 600-800 pairs.
2. Splitting m/c single Splitting m/c is required as capacity of splitting
machine used is 2500-3000 pairs.
3. Levelling & Roughing m/c Single levelling and roughing m/c is
required as capacity of m/c used is 2500-3000 pairs.
4. Edge Pre-trimming m/c Single EPT m/c is required as capacity of m/c
used is 400-500 pairs.
5. Decoration m/c- Single Decoration m/c is required as capacity of m/c
used is 1500-2000 pairs.
6. Stamping m/c Single stamping m/c is required as capacity of m/c used
is 1200-1500 pairs.
7. Buffing & Snuffing m/c Single m/c is required as capacity of m/c used
is 2500-3000 pairs.
8. Edge Inking m/c single machine is required as capacity of m/c used is
2500-3000 pairs.
9. Cementing m/c Single m/c is required as capacity of m/c used is 4000-
5000 pairs.
10. Pressing m/c Single m/c is required.
11. Stapling m/c Single m/c is required.
12. Heel Scouring m/c Single m/c is required as capacity of m/c used is
1200-1500 pairs.
13. Finishing m/c Single m/c is required as capacity of m/c used is 1200-
1500 pairs.


Factory layout:

layout final.xls
Cell=2sq.ft





Optimum Manpower required:
10 workers are needed for manufacturing welted leather unit sole. On the
basis of their skills they are divided into different departments as follows:

Departments Skilled Semi-skilled Unskilled
Cutting
Splitting
Edge Pre-trimming
Edge Inking
Decoration
Stapling
Seat roughing
Heel Preparation
Heel Cupping
Welt Cementing
Welt Attaching
Heel Scouring
Heel Pressing
Heel Colouring
Base coat brushing
Final brushing

As per the need of skilled, semi-skilled & unskilled labour in various
departments, we shall require 10 workers to work in various department.














Inventory:

Sr.
No.
Contents Amount
(per month)
Cost Per
pair
Source
1. Materials:
V.T leather (200kgs*Rs.300) Rs.6000
Inventory for a week
(1200kgs*Rs.300)
Rs.36000
Cost of 31200kgs (1200kgs*26days) Rs.93,60,00
0

Cost per pair (300/2.5) Rs.120 www.aliba
ba.com

Adhesive (2litres for 500 pairs)
Total cost of 125 litres (31200 pairs*
Rs.143.2)
Rs.17900
Cost per pair (17900/31200) Rs.0.57 www.eBay.
com

Welt for 31200 pairs (24000m*Rs.60) Rs.1440000
Cost per pair (0.77m*Rs.6) Rs.4.62 www.eBay.
com

Staple Pins for 31200 pairs
Cost of
pins[187200(31200*6)+300*5/100]
Rs.9375
Cost per pair (6*0.30) Rs.1.8 www.eBay.
com

Die (Rs.120*6) Rs.720
Cost per pair (720/365/500) Rs.0.0040 www.aliba
ba.com

Paint (125 litres*Rs.180) Rs.22500
Cost per pair (22500/31200) Rs.0.72 www.aliba
ba.com


Brush (Rs.15*5) Rs.75

Cost per pair (Rs.75/26/500) Rs.0.0058 www.aliba
ba.com

Costing:
Welted Mauri Leather unit sole of 4mm, size-8.
The factory is located in Palghar-Vasai (MIDC), Mumbai. All the costs are
taken as per the current rates prevailing in the market.

Particulars Amount per month Cost per pair
Material cost
Indian V.T leather Rs.9360000 Rs.120
Adhesive Rs.17900 Rs.0.57
Welt Rs.1440000 Rs.4.52
Staple Pins Rs.187200 Rs.1.8
Die Rs.720 Rs.0.0040
Paint Rs.22500 Rs.0.72
Brush Rs.75 Rs.0.0058
Total [A] Rs.1,10,28,395 Rs.127.62

Manpower Cost (Cost per month)
Skilled Labour (Rs.6500*4) Rs.26000
Semi-skilled labour (Rs.5200*3) Rs.15600
Unskilled labour (Rs.4160*3) Rs.12480
Supervisor Rs.25000
Manager Rs.40000
Total [B] Rs.119080
Monthly Production(500pairs*26) 13000pairs
Cost of 1 pair (119080/13000) Rs.9.16

Machinery Cost
Travelling Head Cutting Press Rs.522500
Splitting M/c Rs.148500
Levelling & Roughing M/c Rs.275000
Snuffing & Buffing M/c Rs.495000
Edge Pre-trimming M/c Rs.143000
Stamping M/c Rs.143000
Decoration M/c Rs.220000
Edge Inking M/c Rs.110000
Welt Cementing M/c Rs.82500
Stapling Gun Rs.11000
Heel Scouring M/c Rs.302500
Heel Pressing M/c Rs.110000
Finishing M/c Rs.110000
Total Rs.2475000
Depreciation- 10% for 10 years Rs.(247500)
Rs.2227500
Yearly Production(500 Pairs*26*12) Rs.156000
M/c cost per pair (247500/156000) [C] Rs.1.59

Land cost
Rent ( Rs.40*896 sq.ft) [D] Rs.35840 Rs.2.76
Gumasta Licence [E] Rs.6000/year Rs.0.033
Electricity Cost [F] Rs. 29605.06 Rs.2.28
Water Charges [G] per 10000 litre Rs. 120/year Rs.0.00077

Total Charges ( A+B+C+D+E+F+G] Rs.13,440,855.06 Rs.143.44
+ Other Indirect Cost (2%) Rs.13,709,672.16 Rs.146.31
+ Profit (15%) Rs.15,766,122.98 Rs.168.25


Conclusion:
From this project we came to know about the manufacturing process of
welted leather unit sole and also the cost involved in the whole process. We also
came to know about various other costs involved to manufacture the sole and
also the area required for the whole process. It needs to be noted that welted
leather unit sole is costlier as compared to Close trim leather unit sole because
of the welt attached to it, but this welt is an advantage to the sole as it gives
extra strength to the sole and the shoe as a whole.