National Occupational Standards

Footwear & Leathergoods

FL3 Create complex patterns for footwear / leathergoods / saddlery
products
This standard is for those who create complex patterns for footwear / leathergoods / saddlery
production.
The job role may involve:
1. Creating complex patterns which are suitable for production, and meet company and
customer requirements

The competent person must:

1. Liaise with the colleagues to confirm:
When the pattern is required
The main features of the design for the pattern
The types of materials which will be used
The last style, quantity and size ratio (footwear only)
2. Construct a standard for a complex style
3. Choose the correct equipment to produce the pattern
4. Produce patterns for counters / toe puffs / linings / bottom stock / other leather products
5. Cut the patterns
6. Prepare specifications and liaise with appropriate persons about the construction and best methods
7. Inspect the prototype and agree any amendments to be made to the patterns
8. Make adjustments to the pattern to compensate for problems identified during the trial and re-issue if
necessary
9. Grade patterns with required restrictions/groupings
10. Produce pattern trial for factory testing
11. Tool up for production
12. Correctly label and store patterns pieces
13. Ensure stitch markers and other information are available for production to take the pattern forward
14. Keep a clean and safe workstation and equipment during pattern work
The key areas of knowledge and understanding:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

The scope of the job and the tasks required

The alterations in the form of the foot during maturity (footwear only)
Which tools are needed and their limitations, as well as how to use them safely
The basic rules of pattern cutting and grading
The benefits of pattern standardisation
What various methods are used in adhering the forme / pattern material such as tape, paper and
vacuum and the various tools and equipment used
7. The implications of the work for production and an appreciation of costs
8. The production of jigs & markers
9. How the work and sequence and the processes are carried out in each department
10. What the main capabilities are of the machinery in use in production in the company
11. The main types of footwear or leather products construction
12. The main capabilities, restrictions and characteristics of material / adhesives
Footwear & Leathergoods FL3
Final version Approved March 2010

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13. The use of relevant seam constructions

14. What the importance is of economy of the pattern in terms of material usage and knives
15. How to work safely and ensure a safe and clean work area
16. The importance of pattern / foot fit trials
The skills and techniques:
1. Adhering the forme material using the most suitable method to create inside and outside formes /
patterns
2. Creating the mean forme / standard and sectional pieces
3. Constructing a standard to include allowances and design features
4. Cutting out sectional patterns correctly and cleanly for sampling purposes
5. Issue patterns to relevant departments for prototype manufacture
Regulations, rules and guidelines:
1. The organisations rules, codes, guidelines and standards
2. Equipment operating procedures
3. Responsibilities under the Health & Safety at Work Act and COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous
to Health)
4. Manufacturers / suppliers instructions
Workplace skills:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Communicate effectively with colleagues and customers

Maintain good working relationship with colleagues
Comply with written instructions
Complete forms, reports and other documentation
Taking measurements
Estimating materials

Footwear & Leathergoods FL3

Final version Approved March 2010

p2 of 2