6.

Shedding
6.7 Jacquard Shedding Systems

Introduction to Jacquard

Jacquard shedding system was developed by Joseph Marie Jacquard

merchant . In case of cam and dobby shedding systems, large number of yarns passing through a heald

group. Thus it precludes the possibility of controlling individual ends independently. Therefore, complicat

cannot be made using cam or dobby shedding systems. With jacquard shedding system, individual ends
independently and thus large woven figures can be produced in fabrics.

Mechanical jacquard systems can be classified under three categories:

Single lift and single cylinder (SLSC)

Double lift and single cylinder (DLSC)

Double lift and double cylinder (DLDC)

Single-Lift Single-Cylinder (SLSC) Jacquard

Figure 6.41 shows the simplified side view of SLSC jacquard. If the machine has the capacity to handle

independently, then it requires 300 hooks (one per end) which are vertically arranged and 300 needles (
are horizontally arranged. For example, the needles can be arranged in six rows and each row will have

side view, only six needles (one per horizontal row) are visible. Hooks, which are connected to individua
cord (harness), are also arranged in six rows and each row is having 50 hooks. One knife is responsible

movement (lifting and lowering) of one row of hooks. However, whether a hook will be lifted or not will b

selection mechanism which is basically a punched card system mounted on a revolving cylinder having s

cross-section. The needles are connected with springs at the opposite size of cylinder. Therefore, the ne
some pressure in the right hand side direction (Figure 6.41).

position of a needle, then the needle will be able to pass through the hole and thus the needle will rema

thus making it accessible to the knife when the latter has started its upward movement after descending

On the other hand, if there is no hole, then the needle will be pressed towards the left side against the s

the kink (which partially circumscribes the stem of a hook) present in the needle presses the hook towa
making the latter tilted enough from the vertical plane so that the knife misses it while moving upward.

of a hole implies selection (ends up) and vice versa. A hole in this case is tantamount with a peg used o
shedding system.

In case of SLSC jacquard, if the loom speed is 300 picks per minute, the cylinder will turn 300 times per

second) and the knives should also reciprocate (up and down) 300 times per minute. Thus it hinders the

When a particular hook (and the corresponding end) has to be in up position in two consecutive picks, in

peaks, in descends to its lowest possible height (determined by the grate) and then moves up again. Th
closed shed. This happens as one end is controlled by a single hook.

Figure 6.41: Side view of single-lift single-cylinder jacquard

Features of SLSC Jacquard

500 end machine will have 500 needles and 500 hooks

Cylinder should turn in every pick

Knives must complete the cycle of rise and fall in every pick

Bottom closed shed is produced

Double-Lift Single-Cylinder (DLSC) Jacquard

Double- lift single-cylinder (DLSC) jacquard is shown in Figure 6.42

are again controlled by a single needle. For example, hooks 1 and 2 control the end 1 and hooks 3 and 4

Two sets of knives are used in DLSC jacquard and they move up and down (rise and fall) in complete ph
when one set of knives (K and K ) attain the highest position, the other set of knives (K
1

the given position, end 1 has been raised as the hook 1 has been lifted by the corresponding knife K

been raised as hook 3 was not caught by the knife K . In the next pick, end 1 will be lowered as the nee
3

towards the left due to the absence of a hole in the punch card. So, hook 2 has become tilted and it will
knife K when the latter will rise. Hook 1 will also descend along with Knife K
2

hand, end 2 will be raised in the next pick as there is a hole in the punch card corresponding to the posi
So, hook 4 is upright and it will be caught by knife K when the latter will move upward.
4

Figure 6.42: Side view of double-lift single-cylinder jacquard

In case of DLSC jacquard, if the loom speed is 300 picks per minute then the cylinder will turn 300 time

knives will reciprocate (rise and fall) 150 times per minute. This is the advantage of DLSC jacquard over

DLDC jacquard produces semi open shed because if a particular end has to be in raised position for two
will descend up to the middle point of its vertical path and then move up. This will happen because one

descend and the other hook will move up with their respective knives and they will cross at the middle o
the end has to remain in bottom position for two consecutive picks, it will remain at the bottom without
movement.

Features of DLSC Jacquard

500 end machine will have 500 needle and 1000 hooks

Two sets of knives rise and fall in opposite phase

Cycles of movement (rise and fall) of each set of knives spans over two picks

Cylinder should turn in every pick

Semi open shed is produced

Double-Lift Double-Cylinder (DLDC) Jacquard

Figure 6.43 depicts the double-lift double-cylinder (DLDC) jacquard. In case of (DLDC) jacquard, the n
rotation or turn and number of reciprocation cycle of knives is half as compared to that of SLSC. In this
controlled by two hooks as it was in case of DLSC. However, each of the hooks is controlled by separate
2 control the end 1 and hooks 3 and 4 control the end 2. Needles 1, 2, 3, and 4 control the hooks 1, 2,

The two needles (say N and N ) corresponding to a particular end (say end 1) are controlled by two cyli
1

One of the needles (N ) is controlled by the right cylinder (cylinder 2) and the other needle (N
2

cylinder (cylinder 1). One cylinder carries the punch cards for even pick numbers like N, N+2, N+4, N+6

an even number. The other cylinder carries the punch cards for odd pick numbers like N+1, N+3, N+5 a

either of the two cylinders performs the selection operation. DLDC jacquard is capable to handle the ma
(picks per minute) among the three types of jacquard.

Figure 6.43 shows that end 1 is in raised position and end 2 is in lowered position in this current pick.
be in raised position in the next pick as there is a hole in punch card on cylinder 2 corresponding to the
(N ). So, hook 2 will remain in upright position and thus it will be raised by the knife 2 (K
2

continue to be in lowered position as it is being tilted by needle 4 (N

position of N . So, knife 4 (K ) will miss the N when the former will rise in the next pick.
4

Figure 6.43: Side view of double-lift double-cylinder jacquard

Features of DLDC Jacquard

500 end machine will have 1000 needles and 1000 hooks

Two sets of knives rise and fall in opposite phase

Cycles of movement (rise and fall) of each set of knives spans over two pic

Cylinder should turn in alternate pick

Semi open shed is produce

Jacquard Harness

It is the system by which the ends are controlled during jacquard shedding with the help of nylon cords,

and dead weights (lingoes). In the preceding part of discussion, it has been considered that the capacity

ends. Now, if the fabric has 3000 ends then ten repeats of the design can be produced on the fabric. For

pattern is woven on the fabric and it requires 300 ends, then 10 such floral patterns can be produced on

the fabric. It is assumed that the hooks of the jacquard are arranged in six rows and each row is having

hook will effectively control 10 (3000/300) ends. The interlacement pattern of end 1, 301, 601, 901, 12

be identical and thus they can be controlled by hook no. 1 through 10 nylon cords. Similarly, hook no. 3
namely end number 300, 600, 900, 1200, 1500, 1800, .., 3000. This has been depicted in

harness cords pass through the perforations of a wooden or polymer board named comber board. The d
pull the end downwards when it is not lifted.

Figure 6.44: Jacquard harness

Problems in Jacquard Harness in Case of Wide Looms

When the loom width and thus the comber board width are high, problem may arise in terms of variatio
by various heddles and consequently the warp ends they control. This will be clear from the

is 200 cm and the perpendicular distance between the neck band suspended from a hook and the combe
when the end is down. The lift of the hook is 10 cm.

Figure 6.45: Variation in Jacquard lift

Therefore, when the hook is raised by 10 cm, then the heddle which is exactly at bottom of the hook wil

cm. However, the heddle which is at the extreme left or right of the comber board will receive a lift equa

Thus the loss of lift is around 16% with respect to the warp end positioned vertically below the hook.

Electronic Jacquard

In recent times electronic jacquards have become very popular. It controls the ends by synchronized ope
machine components.

Electromagnet

Retaining hook or ratchet

Hooks

Knives

Double roller

The knives are used to lift or lower the hooks. If the electromagnet is activated by the signal pattern, th

the upper end of the retaining hook once the latter is pressed on the electromagnet due to the upward m

If this happens then the hook is not retained by the retaining hook when the former starts to descend w

other hand, if the electromagnet is not activated, then the hook is retained or caught by the retaining ho

Figure 6.46 depicts the operation of the electronic jacquard system.

Position 1: Hook 2 (H ) has been lifted to the highest position by the knife 2 (K
2

activated and it holds the top end of the retaining hook 2 (R

not catch the hook 2 when the latter is descending. At this instance the shed is at lower position.

Position 2: Knife 2 and hook 2 are descending whereas knife 1 (K

movement of the double pulley assembly or shed. The shed is still at lower position.

Position 3: The hook 1 has been raised to the highest position by the knife 1 and thus the hook 1 has p

retaining hook 1 (R ) against the electromagnet. At this moment the electromagnet has not been activat
1

the kook 1 is caught by the retaining hook 1.

Position 4: Knife 1 has started to descend but the hook 1 cannot descend as it is caught by the retainin
again started its upward movement along with hook 2. The shed has now started to change its position

is because the hook 1 is already in raised position (caught by retaining hook 1) and hook 2 is also movin

Position 5: The hook 2 has pressed the top end of retaining hook 2 against the electromagnet which is

instance. Thus hook 2 is caught by the retaining hook 2. As both the hooks are now in raised position, it
position.

Position 6: Knife 2 has started to descend. However, the hook 2 retains its raised position as it is held b
2. Thus the shed remains in upper position.

Figure 6.46: Principles of operation of electronic jacquard