Honda Accord 2007 Incl v6

2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 RESTRAINTS SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) - Accord
2003-07 RESTRAINTS
SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) - Accord
COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX
Fig. 1: Locating SRS Components

Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating SRS Components (4-Door Shown; 2-Door Similar)

PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES
GENERAL PRECAUTIONS
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system
service. Observe the instructions described in this information, or the airbags could
accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch
OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3
minutes before beginning work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not erased even if the ignition

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2007 Honda Accord
switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are

disconnected from the battery.
Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and
quality as the original parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts
when making SRS repairs.
Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that
shows signs of being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or
deformation.
Fig. 3: Inspecting SRS Parts

Before removing any of the SRS parts (including the disconnection of the
connectors), always disconnect the SRS connector.
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Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda

multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to
the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could
cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
Do not put objects on the front passenger's airbag.
The original radio and navigation system have a coded theft protection circuit.
Be sure to get the customer's anti-theft codes and write down the frequencies
for the radio's preset stations before disconnecting the battery negative cable.
Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio code, the
navigation code, then enter the customer's audio presets, and set the clock.
STEERING-RELATED PRECAUTIONS
Cable Reel Alignment
Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, make the
SRS system remote steering wheel controls and the horn inoperative. Center
the cable reel whenever the following is performed (see step 6 in
Installation ).
- Installation of the steering wheel
- Installation of the cable reel
- Installation of the steering column
- Other steering-related adjustment or installation
Do not disassemble the cable reel.
Do not apply grease to the cable reel.
If the cable, reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For
example, if it does not rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
AIRBAG HANDLING AND STORAGE
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been
deployed, it cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following

precautions.
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Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the
airbag.
Fig. 4: Storing Removed Airbag With Pad Surface Up

To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent,
or water.
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Fig. 5: Keeping Airbag Away From Oil, Grease, Detergent Or Water

Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat
source (exceeding 200F/93C).
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Fig. 6: Removing Airbag Keeping Flat Surface Away From Any Heat
Source
Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring

resistance.
Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or
replacement.
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Fig. 7: Precaution For Airbag Removal, Inspection, Or Replacement

Refer to the scrapping procedures for disposal of a damaged airbag.
The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an
inflator (A), a flexible bag (B), an adapter pipe (C), and a center bracket (D).
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Fig. 8: Identifying Side Curtain Airbag Inflator Assembly Components

When removing or installing the side curtain airbag inflator assembly, never
handle the flexible bag (B) or the adapter pipe (C).
SRS UNIT, FRONT IMPACT SENSORS, SIDE IMPACT SENSORS, FRONT PASSENGER'S
WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT ('04-05 MODELS), AND FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSORS ('04-
07 MODELS)
Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side
impact sensors when the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes
after the ignition switch is turned OFF.
During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench,
hammer, etc.) the area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side
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impact sensors. The airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or
injury.
Fig. 9: Precaution For Bump Area Around SRS Unit, Front Impact
Sensors, Or Side Impact Sensors
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After a collision in which the front airbags or seat belt tensioners were
deployed, replace the SRS unit, front sensors, and other related components
(see COMPONENT REPLACEMENT/INSPECTION AFTER
DEPLOYMENT ). After a collision in which a side airbag was deployed,
replace the side impact sensor on the deployed side, and the SRS unit. After a
collision in which the airbags or the side airbags did not deploy, inspect for any
damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side
impact sensors. Replace all damaged parts.
Fig. 10: Precaution For Deformation On SRS Unit

Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors,
driver's seat position sensor, front passenger's weight sensor unit ('03-05
models), and front passenger's weight sensors.
Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait
at least 3 minutes before beginning installation or replacement of the SRS unit
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or disconnecting the connectors from the SRS unit.

Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2
lbf.ft)
Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors, and keep
them away from dust.
Store the SRS unit, front impact sensors, and side impact sensors in a cool (less
than 104 F/40 C) and dry (less than 80 % relative humidity, no moisture)
area.
WIRING PRECAUTIONS
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the
SRS connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or

damage in SRS wiring or terminals, replace the harness.
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Fig. 11: Never Attempt To Modify, Splice Or Repair SRS Wiring

Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with
other parts.
Fig. 12: Do Not Pinch Or Interfere With Other Parts When Installing
Harness Wires
Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean and securely fastened for
optimum metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounding can cause intermittent
problems that are difficult to diagnose.
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PRECAUTIONS FOR ELECTRICAL INSPECTIONS
When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire
side of the connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side
of the connector, and do not tamper with the connector.
Fig. 13: Do Not Insert Probe Of Tester Into Terminal Side Of Connector
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Use a U-shaped probe. Do not insert the probe forcibly.
Fig. 14: Using U-Shaped Probe

Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools

could cause an error in inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
SPRING-LOADED LOCK CONNECTOR
Some SRS system connectors have a spring-loaded lock.

Front Airbag Connectors
Disconnecting
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To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while
holding the opposite half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be
sure to pull on the sleeve and not on the connector.
Fig. 15: Disconnecting Front Airbag Connectors

Connecting
1. To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the
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sleeve-side connector in the direction shown in Fig. 17. As the two connector
halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed back by the pawl (C). Do
not touch the sleeve.
Fig. 16: Holding Pawl-Side Connector And Pressing On Back Of Sleeve-

Side Connector
2. When the connector halves are completely connected, the pawl is released, and
the spring-loaded sleeve locks the connector.
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Fig. 17: When Connector Is Connected Pawl Is Released And Spring-

Loaded Sleeve Locks Connector
Side Airbag Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) and the slider (B) while
holding the opposite half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be
sure to pull on the sleeve and not on the connector half.
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Fig. 18: Disconnecting Side Airbag Connector

Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (C)
of the sleeve-side connector clicks.
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Fig. 19: Connecting Side Airbag Connector

REOPENING THE SRS UNIT CIRCUIT FOR DIAGNOSIS
NOTE: To prevent damage of the connector cavity, insert the

SRS short canceller straight into the cavity from the
terminal side.
Do not use the special tool if it is damaged.
Make sure to remove the special tool before
reconnecting.
When SRS unit connectors A, B, or C are disconnected, a short circuit is created in

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the connector by its own function to prevent airbag deployment. The circuit may
need to be opened when diagnosis is performed on the circuit.
Insert the SRS short canceller (No. 070AZ-SAA0100, short canceller) in the
specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
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Fig. 20: Inserting SRS Short Canceller In Specified Cavities

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Fig. 21: Identifying SRS Unit Connector A 28P

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Fig. 22: Identifying SRS Unit Connector B 28P

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Fig. 23: Identifying SRS Unit Connector C 16P

BACKPROBING SPRING-LOADED LOCK CONNECTORS
When checking voltage or resistance on this type of connector the first time, you
must remove the retainer to insert the tester probe from the wire side.
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NOTE: It is not necessary to reinstall the removed retainer; the

terminals will stay locked in the connector housing.
To remove the retainer (A), insert a flat-tip screwdriver (B) between the connector
body and the retainer, then carefully pry out the retainer. Take care not to break the
connector.
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Fig. 24: Removing Retainer Inserting Screwdriver Between Connector Body

And Retainer
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SEATS WITH SIDE AIRBAGS
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back. Because the
component parts (seat-back cover, cushion, etc.) of seats with and without airbags
are different, make sure you install only the correct replacement parts.
Fig. 25: Identifying Side Airbag Label

When cleaning, do not saturate the seat with liquid, and do not spray steam on
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the seat.
Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
After a collision in which the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag
with new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced. If the seat-
back frame is deformed, it must be replaced.
Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights,
etc.).
DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS
Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
and wait at least 3 minutes before beginning the following procedures.
Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B (3) from SRS unit, disconnect both
seat belt tensioner 4P connectors (4, 5).
Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's
airbag 4P connector (2).
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Fig. 26: Disconnecting Negative Cable From Battery

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1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes.

Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the
driver's airbag 4P connector (B) from the cable reel.
Fig. 27: Removing Access Panel From Steering Wheel (Driver's Airbag)
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Front Passenger's Airbag

3. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P
connector (A) from the dashboard wire harness.
Fig. 28: Disconnecting Front Passenger's Airbag 4P Connector From

Dashboard Wire Harness (Front Passenger's Airbag)
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Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
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Fig. 29: Disconnecting Side Airbag 2P Connectors From Floor Wire

Harness (Side Airbag)
Side Curtain Airbag
5. Remove the headliner (see HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).

6. Remove the antenna coil (see WINDOW ANTENNA COIL
REPLACEMENT ).
7. Disconnect both side curtain airbag subharness 2P connectors from the side
curtain airbags.
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Fig. 30: Disconnecting Side Curtain Airbag Subharness 2P Connectors

From Side Curtain Airbags (Side Curtain Airbag)
Seat Belt Tensioner
8. Remove the side trim panel.

9. Remove the middle cross-member gusset.
10. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt
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tensioners.
Fig. 31: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 4P Connectors From Seat Belt
Tensioners (Seat Belt Tensioner)
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SRS Unit
11. Remove the center console and front panel.
12. Remove the center console and front panel (see CENTER CONSOLE
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
13. Remove the center pocket (see CENTER POCKET
14. Remove the center holder (see CENTER CONSOLE
15. Remove the driver's and passenger's center lower cover (see
DASHBOARD/STEERING HANGER BEAM
16. Disconnect SRS unit connector A, and/or SRS unit connector B, and/or SRS
unit connector C from the SRS unit.
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Fig. 32: Disconnecting SRS Unit Connector A, B And C From SRS Unit
From SRS Unit (SRS Unit)
GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
DTC (DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES)
The self-diagnostic function of the SRS system allows it to locate the causes of
system problems and then store this information in memory. For easier
troubleshooting, this data can be retrieved via a data link circuit.
When you turn the ignition switch ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on. If it
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goes off after 6 seconds, the system is normal, and is not currently detecting
any abnormality.
If there is an abnormality, the system locates and defines the problem, stores
this information in memory, and turns the SRS indicator on. The data will
remain in the memory even when the ignition switch is turned off or if the
battery is disconnected.
The data is stored in memory as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).
DTCs are either latching or resetting depending on the malfunction. With
resetting DTCs, the SRS indicator will go off the next time the ignition switch
is turned ON and the system is normal, but the DTC is still stored. With
latching DTCs the SRS indicator will not turn OFF until the malfunction is
repaired and the DTC is cleared.
When you connect the HDS to the 16P data link connector (DLC), you can
retrieve a more detailed DTC in the Honda Systems "SRS" menu.
After reading and recording the DTC, proceed with the troubleshooting
procedure for that code.
Precautions
Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it's not a Honda
multimeter, make sure its output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to
the smallest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester with a higher output could
damage the airbag circuit or cause accidental airbag deployment and possible
injury.
Whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or has been turned OFF for less than 3
minutes, be careful not to bump the SRS unit; the airbags could accidentally
deploy and cause damage or injuries.
Before you remove the SRS harness, disconnect the driver's airbag connector,
the front passenger's airbag connector, both side airbag connectors, both side
curtain airbag connectors, and both seat belt tensioner connectors.
Make sure the battery is sufficiently charged. If the battery is dead or low,
measuring values won't be correct.
Do not touch a tester probe to the terminals in the SRS unit or harness
connectors, and do not connect the terminals with a jumper wire. Use only the
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backprobe set and the HDS. Backprobe spring-loaded lock type connectors
correctly.
READING THE DTC
HDS
1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.

2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A).
Fig. 33: Connecting HDS To DLC

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3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

4. Use the HDS to check for DTCs.
5. Read and record the DTC.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and wait for 10 seconds.
7. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
8. Do the troubleshooting procedure for the DTC.
ERASING THE DTC MEMORY WITH HDS

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4. In the TEST MODE MENU of the HDS, select DTC CLEAR. This erases the
DTC(s).
ERASING THE DTC MEMORY WITH MANUAL MODE
Special Tools Required

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SCS Service Connector 07PAZ-0010100

To erase the DTC(s) from the SRS unit, use the HDS, or the following procedure.

2. Connect the SCS service connector (A) to the yellow MES 2P connector (B).
Do not use a jumper wire.
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Fig. 35: Connecting SCS Service Connector To Yellow MES 2P Connector


4. The SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds, and then goes off. Remove
the SCS service connector from the MES connector (2P) within 4 seconds after
the indicator goes off.
5. The SRS indicator comes on again. Reconnect the SCS service connector to the
MES connector (2P) within 4 seconds after the indicator comes on.
6. When the SRS indicator goes off, remove the SCS service connector from the
MES connector (2P) within 4 seconds.
7. The SRS indicator blinks two times indicating that the memory has been
erased.
9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) again. If the SRS indicator comes on for 6
seconds, and then goes off, the system is OK.
INITIALIZING THE OPDS/ODS UNIT
When a seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS/ODS unit is replaced,

initialize the OPDS/ODS by following the procedure.
NOTE: A new (uninitialized) OPDS/ODS unit installed with a faulty

OPDS sensor can cause DTC 85-71.
1. Erase the DTC memory (see "ERASING THE DTC MEMORY WITH
HDS").
2. Make sure the front passenger's seat is dry. Set the seat-back in a normal
position, and make sure there is nothing on the seat.
3. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF and the MES connector is not shorted.
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6. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS, then Misc Test, then Adjustments. In
the Adjustment Menu, select OPDS/ODS INIT. Follow the screen prompts to
initialize the OPDS/ODS.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: If the OPDS/ODS system fails to initialize after several

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attempts, replace the OPDS sensor and retry. If the

OPDS/ODS system continues to fail to initialize, replace
the OPDS/ODS unit.
TROUBLESHOOTING INTERMITTENT FAILURES
If there was a malfunction, but it doesn't recur, it will be stored in the memory as an
intermittent failure, and the SRS indicator may come on depending on the
malfunction detected.
After checking the DTC, troubleshoot as follows:
1. Read the DTC (see "Reading the DTC").

2. Erase the DTC memory (see "ERASING THE DTC MEMORY WITH
HDS").
3. Set the parking brake, then start the engine, and let it idle.
4. The SRS indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then go off.
5. Shake the wire harness and the connectors, take a test drive (quick
acceleration, quick braking, cornering), turn the steering wheel fully left and
right, and hold it there for 5 to 10 seconds. If the problem recurs, the SRS
indicator will come on.
6. If you can't duplicate the intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.
CALIBRATING THE FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT ('04-05 MODELS) OR
CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL)
When the front passenger's weight sensors and/or weight sensor unit ('04-05
models) or calibrate the ODS unit ('06-07 model) is replaced, calibrate the weight
sensor unit ('04-05 models) or calibrate the ODS unit ('06-07 model) by following
the procedure.
While calibrating the front passenger's weight sensor unit ('04-05 models) or
calibrate the ODS unit ('06-07 model), observe these precautions:
Make sure all components of the front passenger's seat are correctly installed.
Make sure all optional parts such as seat covers are removed.
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Make sure nothing is on or under the front passenger's seat.

Make sure there is nothing in the front passenger's seat-back pocket.
Keep the windows closed.
Perform all calibration procedures except test driving in the service bay.
Make sure the vehicle is on level ground.
Keep the A/C and the heater off.
Do not touch the front passenger's seat until you drive the vehicle.
Do not expose the front passenger's seat to sudden temperature changes.
1. Position the front passenger's seat to the rear most position, and adjust the
recliner to the most forward position. Do not move from these positions.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A).
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3. Drive the vehicle, and accelerate to 20 mph (36 km/h), then stop on level
ground.
4. From the Main Menu, select SRS, then Seat Weight Sensor, then Misc Test,
then Adjustments. Select "SWS INIT" in the Adjustment Menu and follow the
prompts until the initialization operation has been completed.
OPERATION CHECK OF THE FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT ('04-05 MODELS)
OR OPERATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL)
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The operation of the front passenger's weight sensor unit ('04-05 models) or operate
the ODS unit ('06-07 model) must be checked after any of these actions.
Replacement of front passenger's seat component(s) (except weight sensor unit

and/or weight sensors)
After a vehicle collision
Pre-Operation Check Set-up
Make sure all the components of the front passenger's seat are correctly
installed.
Position the front passenger's seat to the rear most position.
Adjust the seat recline to the forward most position.
Do not move the seat from this position.
Make sure nothing is on or under the front passenger's seat.
Make sure there is nothing in the front passenger's seat-back pocket.
Keep the windows closed.
Perform all calibration procedures except test-driving in the service bay.
Make sure the vehicle is on level ground.
Turn the heater and the A/C off.
Do not touch the passenger's seat during the calibration.
Do not expose the front passenger's seat to sudden temperature changes.
After Replacing Front Passenger's Seat Component(s)
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A).
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2. Drive the vehicle, accelerate to 20 mph (36 km/h), then stop on level ground.
3. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS, then Seat Weight Sensor, then Misc
Test, then Inspection. Select "SEAT OUTPUT CHK." in the HDS Inspection
Menu. The weight (T0) of the front passenger's seat is recorded by the HDS.
OPERATION CHECK OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT POSITION SENSOR
The driver's seat position sensor must be checked after any of these actions.
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Driver's seat position sensor replacement

Cover plate (front side of driver's seat slide rail) replacement
1. Make sure the driver's seat is at its full forward position.
2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF (0).

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5. From the HDS Main Menu, select SRS, then Data List, then All Data List, then
SPS.
6. Move the seat all the way forward. Using a piece of tape, mark a line on the
seat's outer cover where the front riser cover meets the seat riser. The SPS
should read "NEAR."
NOTE: It takes a few seconds for the HDS to display changes,

so wait about 5 seconds between each move.
Move the seat back in small increments (about 5 mm) until the SPS reads
"NOT NEAR." The seat should be approximately 25 mm from the front.
If the SPS data does not work as described above, check the driver's seat
position sensor or the cover plate for damage, and replace parts as needed.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX
NOTE: Before looking up DTC's in the DTC troubleshooting index,

verify the manufacturer of the SRS unit. The DTC's are
different from manufacturer to manufacturer.
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX - TRW SRS UNIT ('03-05 MODELS)

DTC (1) (2) Detection Item Notes
Latch Reset
(see DTC 11-1X (11-10 TO
Open or increased
11-19,11-1A TO 11-1F):
resistance in
11-1x X OPEN IN DRIVER'S
driver's airbag first
AIRBAG FIRST
inflator
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-3X (11-30 TO

Short to another 11-39,11-3A TO 11-3F):
11-3x X wire or decreased SHORT TO ANOTHER
resistance in WIRE OR DECREASED
driver's airbag first RESISTANCE IN
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inflator DRIVER'S AIRBAG FIRST

INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-4X (11-40 TO
Open or increased
11-49,11-4A TO 11-4F):
resistance in
driver's airbag
AIRBAG SECOND
second inflator
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-6X (11-60 TO
wire or decreased SHORT TO ANOTHER
11-6x X resistance in WIRE OR DECREASED
driver's airbag RESISTANCE IN
second inflator DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-8X (11-80 TO
Short to power in 11-89, 11-8A TO 11-8F):
11-8x X driver's airbag first SHORT TO POWER IN
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-9X (11-90 TO
Short to ground in 11-99, 11-9A TO 11-9F):
11-9x X driver's airbag first SHORT TO GROUND IN
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-AX (11-A0 TO
Short to power in 11-A9, 11-AA TO 11-AF):
11-Ax X driver's airbag SHORT TO POWER IN
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-BX (11-B0 TO
Short to ground in 11-B9, 11-BA TO 11-BF):
11-Bx X driver's airbag SHORT TO GROUND IN
SECOND INFLATOR )
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(see DTC 12-1X (12-10 TO

Open or increased
12-19, 12-1A TO 12-1F):
resistance in front
12-1x X OPEN IN FRONT
passenger's airbag
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
first inflator
FIRST INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-3X (12-30 TO
Short to another 12-39, 12-3A TO 12-3F):
12-3x X resistance in front WIRE OR DECREASED
passenger's airbag RESISTANCE IN FRONT
first inflator PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
FIRST INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-4X (12-40 TO
Open or increased
12-49, 12-4A TO 12-4F):
resistance in front
passenger's airbag
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
second inflator
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-6X (12-60 TO
second inflator PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-8X (12-80 TO
12-89, 12-8A TO 12-8F):
Short to power in
SHORT TO POWER IN
12-8x X front passenger's
FRONT PASSENGER'S
airbag first inflator
AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-9X (12-90 TO
12-9x X front passenger's SHORT TO GROUND IN
airbag first inflator FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG FIRST
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INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-AX (12-A0 TO
Short to power in 12-A9, 12-AA TO 12-AF):
front passenger's SHORT TO POWER IN
12-Ax X
airbag second FRONT PASSENGER'S
inflator AIRBAG SECOND
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-BX (12-B0 TO
Short to ground in 12-B9, 12-BA TO 12-BF):
front passenger's SHORT TO GROUND IN
12-Bx X
airbag second FRONT PASSENGER'S
INFLATOR )
Open or increased (see DTC 21-1X (21-10 TO
resistance in 21-19, 21-1A TO 21-1F):
21-1x X
driver's seat belt OPEN IN DRIVER'S SEAT
tensioner BELT TENSIONER )
(see DTC 21-3X (21-30 TO
driver's seat belt RESISTANCE IN
tensioner DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 21-8X (21-80 TO
21-8x X driver's seat belt SHORT TO POWER IN
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 21-9X (21-90 TO
21-9x X driver's seat belt SHORT TO GROUND IN
TENSIONER )
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(see DTC 22-1X (22-10 TO

Open or increased
22-19, 22-1A TO 22-1F):
resistance in front
passenger's seat
PASSENGER'S SEAT
belt tensioner
BELT TENSIONER )
(see DTC 22-3X (22-30 TO
passenger's seat RESISTANCE IN FRONT
belt tensioner PASSENGER'S SEAT
BELT TENSIONER )
(see DTC 22-8X (22-80 TO
22-89, 22-8A TO 22-8F):
Short to power in
SHORT TO POWER IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
seat belt tensioner
SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 22-9X (22-90 TO
22-99, 22-9A TO 22-9F):
Short to ground in
SHORT TO GROUND IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
seat belt tensioner
SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
Open or increased (see DTC 31-1X (31-10 TO
resistance in 31-19, 31-1A TO 31-1F):
31-1x X
driver's side airbag OPEN IN DRIVER'S SIDE
inflator AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 31-3X (31-30 TO
driver's side airbag RESISTANCE IN
inflator DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
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(see DTC 31-8X (31-80 TO

31-8x X driver's side airbag SHORT TO POWER IN
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 31-9X (31-90 TO
31-9x X driver's side airbag SHORT TO GROUND IN
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-1X (32-10 TO
Open or increased
32-19, 32-1A TO 32-1F):
resistance in front
passenger's side
PASSENGER'S SIDE
airbag inflator
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-3X (32-30 TO
passenger's side RESISTANCE IN FRONT
airbag inflator PASSENGER'S SIDE
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-8X (32-80 TO
32-89, 32-8A TO 32-8F):
Short to power in
SHORT TO POWER IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
side airbag inflator
SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-9X (32-90 TO
32-99, 32-9A TO 32-9F):
Short to ground in
SHORT TO GROUND IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 33-1X (33-10 TO
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33-19, 33-1A TO 33-1F):

Open or increased
OPEN OR INCREASED
resistance in left
33-1x X RESISTANCE IN LEFT
side curtain airbag
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
inflator
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 33-3X (33-30 TO
33-3x X resistance in left WIRE OR DECREASED
side curtain airbag RESISTANCE IN LEFT
inflator SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 33-8X (33-80 TO
33-8x X left side curtain SHORT TO POWER IN
airbag inflator LEFT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 33-9X (33-90 TO
33-9x X left side curtain SHORT TO GROUND IN
airbag inflator LEFT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 34-1X (34-10 TO
Open or increased 34-19, 34-1A TO 34-1F):
resistance in right OPEN OR INCREASED
34-1x X
side curtain airbag RESISTANCE IN RIGHT
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 34-3X (34-30 TO
34-3x X resistance in right WIRE OR DECREASED
side curtain airbag RESISTANCE IN RIGHT
INFLATOR )
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(see DTC 34-8X (34-80 TO

34-8x X right side curtain SHORT TO POWER IN
airbag inflator RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 34-9X (34-90 TO
34-9x X right side curtain SHORT TO GROUND IN
airbag inflator RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(1) The SRS indicator turns on and stays on whenever the ignition switch is in
the ON (II) position, or until the code is cleared.
(2) The SRS indicator turns on when the DTC is set. The SRS indicator will
not turn on after the ignition switch is cycled from ON (II) to OFF (0), but
the DTC will be stored in the SRS unit.
NOTE: The "x" at the end of each DTC denotes a numeric character
(0 thru 9) or an alpha character (A thru F) that you will see
on the HDS display. The character is unrelated to your
troubleshooting; it designates the SRS unit manufacturer
and other detail used for product analysis.
NOTE: Before looking up DTCs in the DTC troubleshooting index,

verify the manufacturer of the SRS unit. The DTCs are

(CONT.)
DTC Latch(1) Reset(2) Detection Item Notes
(see DTC 41-1x (41-10 to
No signal from the
41-19, 41-1A to 41-1F):
41-1x X left front impact
No signal from the Left
sensor
Front Impact Sensor )
(see DTC 41-2x (41-20 to
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41-2x 41-29, 41-2A to 41-2F),

X Internal failure of the 41-3x (41-30 to 41-39, 41-
41-3x 3A to 41-3F): Internal
left front impact
sensor Failure of the Left Front
41-Bx X Impact Sensor )
(see DTC 42-1x (42-10 to
No signal from the
42-19, 42-1A to 42-1F):
42-1x X right front impact
No Signal from the Right
sensor
(see DTC 42-2x (42-20 to
42-2x
42-29, 42-2A to 42-2F),
X Internal failure of the
42-3x (42-30 to 42-39, 42-
42-3x right front impact
3A to 42-3F): Internal
sensor
Failure of the Right
42-Bx X
(see DTC 43-1x (43-10 to
No signal from the 43-19, 43-1A to 43-1F):
43-1X X left side impact No Signal from the Left
sensor (first) Side Impact Sensor
(first) )
(see DTC 43-2x (43-20 to
43-2x 43-29, 43-2A to 43-2F),
X 43-3x (43-30 to 43-39, 43-
Internal failure of the
3A to 43-3F), 43-Bx (43-
43-3x left side impact
B0 to 43-B9, 43-BA to
sensor (first)
43-BF): Internal Failure
43-Bx X of the Left Side Impact
Sensor (first) )
(see DTC 44-1x (44-10 to
44-1 x X right side impact No Signal from the Right
sensor (first) Side Impact Sensor
(first) )
(see DTC 43-2x (43-20 to
44-2x
43-29, 43-2A to 43-2F),
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43-3x (43-30 to 43-39, 43-

44-3X X 3A to 43-3F), 43-Bx (43-
B0 to 43-B9, 43-BA to
right side impact
44-Bx X sensor (first)
of the Left Side Impact
Sensor (first) )
(see DTC 45-1x (45-10 to
No signal from left 45-19, 45-1A to 45-1F):
45-1x X side impact sensor No Signal from the Left
(second) Side Impact Sensor
(second) )
(see DTC 45-2x (45-20 to
45-2x 45-29, 45-2A to 45-2F),
X 45-3x (45-30 to 45-39, 45-
Internal failure of
3A to 45-3F), 45-Bx (45-
45-3x left side impact
B0 to 45-B9, 45-BA to
sensor (second)
Sensor (second) )
(see DTC 46-1x (46-10 to
No signal from right 46-19, 46-1A to 46-1F):
46-1x X side impact sensor No Signal from the Right
(second) Side Impact Sensor
(second) )
(see DTC 45-2x (45-20 to
46-2x 45-29, 45-2A to 45-2F),
X 45-3x (45-30 to 45-39, 45-
Internal failure of
3A to 45-3F), 45-Bx (45-
46-3x right side impact
B0 to 45-B9, 45-BA to
sensor (second)
Sensor (second) )
51-2x (see DTC 51-2x (51-20 to
X 51-29, 51-2A to 51-2F),
51-4x
51-4x (51-40 to 51-49, 51-
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52-8x 4A to 51-4F), 51-7x (51-

52-9x Internal failure of 70 to 51-79, 51-7A to 51-
X
SRS unit 7F): Internal Failure of
52-Ax the SRS Unit )
52-Bx (see DTC 52-Bx (52-B0
52-Cx to 52-B9, 52-BA to 52-
52-Dx X BF), 52-Cx (52-C0 to 52-
Internal failure of
C9, 52-CA to 52-CF), 52-
52-Ex SRS unit
Dx (52-D0 to 52-D9, 52-
52-Fx DA to 52-DF): Internal
53-1 x X Failure of the SRS Unit )
53-2x (see DTC 53-2x (53-20 to
53-3x 53-29, 53-2A to 53-2F),
53-4x 53-3x (53-30 to 53-39, 53-
Internal failure of
X 3A to 53-3F), 53-4x (53-
54-1x SRS unit
40 to 53-49, 53-4A to 53-
54-2x 4F): Internal Failure of
54-3x the SRS Unit )
54-4x (see DTC 54-4x (54-40 to
54-5x 54-49, 54-4A to 54-4F),
54-6x 54-5x (54-50 to 54-59, 54-
Internal failure of
X 5A to 54-5F), 54-6x (54-
54-7x SRS unit
60 to 54-69,54-6A to 54-
55-2x the SRS Unit )
(see DTC 55-3x (55-30 to
55-3x 55-39, 55-3A to 55-3F),
55-4x (55-40 to 55-49, 55-
Internal failure of
X 4A to 55-4F), 55-7x (55-
SRS unit
70 to 55-79, 55-7A to 55-
the SRS Unit )
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(CONT.)
(see DTC 61-1x (61-10 to
Open in driver's seat 61-19,61-1A to 61-1F):
belt buckle switch Open in Driver's Seat
(with power seat) Belt Buckle Switch (with
power seat) )
61-1x
(see DTC 61-1x (61-10 to
Open in driver's seat 61-19,61-1A to 61-1F):
belt buckle switch Open in Driver's Seat
(without power seat) Belt Buckle Switch
(without power seat) )
(see DTC 61-2x (61-20 to
Short in driver's seat 61-29,61-2A to 61-2F):
belt buckle switch Short in Driver's Seat
61-2x (with power seat) Belt Buckle Switch (with
power seat) )
(see DTC 61-2x (61-20 to
Short in driver's seat 61-29, 61-2A to 61-2F):
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belt buckle switch Short in Driver's Seat

(without power seat) Belt Buckle Switch
(without power seat) )
(see DTC 62-1x (62-10 to
Open in front 62-19, 62-1A to 62-1F):
passenger's seat belt Open in Front
buckle switch (with Passenger's Seat Belt
power seat) Buckle Switch (with
power seat) )
62-1x
(see DTC 62-1x (62-10 to
Open in front 62-19,62-1A to 62-1F):
passenger's seat belt Open in Front
buckle switch Passenger's Seat Belt
X (without power seat) Buckle Switch (without
power seat) )
(see DTC 62-2x (62-20 to
Short in front 62-29,62-2A to 62-2F):
passenger's seat belt Short in Front
buckle switch (with Passenger's Seat Belt
power seat) Buckle Switch (with
power seat) )
62-2x
(see DTC 62-2x (62-20 to
Short in front 62-29, 62-2A to 62-2F):
passenger's seat belt Short in Front
buckle switch Passenger's Seat Belt
(without power seat) Buckle Switch (without
power seat) )
(see DTC 71-1x171-10 to
Open in driver's seat 71-19, 71-1A to 71-1F):
71-1x
position sensor Open in Driver's Seat
Position Sensor )
(see DTC 71-2x (71-20 to
Short in driver's seat 71-29, 71-2A to 71-2F):
71-2x
position sensor Short in Driver's Seat
Position Sensor )
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2007 Honda Accord
(see DTC 81-4x (81-40 to

81-4x 81-49, 81-4A to 81-4F),
81-5x (81-50 to 81-59, 81-
Faulty front
5A to 81-5F), 81-63, 81-
passenger's weight
64: Internal Failure of
sensor unit
the Front Passenger's
81-5x
Weight Sensor Unit ('04-
05 models) )
(see DTC 81-61: No
Signal from Front
Passenger's Weight
No signal from the
Sensor Unit (with side
front passenger's
airbag) ('04-05 models);
weight sensor unit
DTC 81-62: Non-
(with side airbag)
stipulated Response Data
(with side airbag) ('04-05
models) )
81-61
(see DTC 81-61: No
Signal from Front
Passenger's Weight
No signal from the
Sensor Unit (without side
front passenger's
airbag) ('04-05 models);
weight sensor unit
DTC 81-62: Non-
(without side airbag)
('04-05 models) )
(see DTC 81-61: No
Signal from Front
Passenger's Weight
Non-stipulated Sensor Unit (with side
response data (with airbag) ('04-05 models);
side airbag) DTC 81-62: Non-
(with side airbag) ('04-05
models) )
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(see DTC 81-61: No

Signal from Front
Passenger's Weight
Non-stipulated Sensor Unit (without side
81-62 response data (without airbag) ('04-05 models);
side airbag) DTC 81-62: Non-
('04-05 models) )
(see DTC 81-4x (81-40 to
Model ID code or 81-49, 81-4A to 81-4F),
81-63 variation code 81-5x (81-50 to 81-59, 81-
inconsistent 5A to 81-5F), 81-63, 81-
ECU serial ID code the Front Passenger's
81-64 Weight Sensor Unit ('04-
inconsistent
05 models) )
(see DTC 81-71, 81-78:
81-71 Front passenger's Front passenger's weight
weight sensor unit sensor unit does not
81-78 does not calibrate calibrate ('04-05
models) )
(see DTC 81-4x (81-40 to
81-49, 81-4A to 81-4F),
81-5x (81-50 to 81-59, 81-
Front passenger's
5A to 81-5F), 81-63, 81-
81-79 weight sensors drift
check failure
the Front Passenger's
Weight Sensor Unit ('04-
05 models) )
No signal from the (see DTC 82-1x (82-10 to

inner side front 82-19, 82-1A to 82-1F):
82-1x No Signal from the Inner
passenger's weight
sensor Side Front Passenger's
Weight Sensor ('04-06
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models) )
(see DTC 82-1x (82-10 to
outer side front No Signal from the Inner
82-2x
passenger's weight Side Front Passenger's
sensor Weight Sensor ('04-06
models) )
(see DTC 85-4x (85-40 to
85-4x 85-49, 85-4A to 85-4F),
85-5x (85-50 to 85-59, 85-
Faulty OPDS unit
5A to 85-5F), 85-63, 85-
85-5x 64: Internal Failure of
the OPDS/ODS Unit )
(see DTC 85-61: No
No signal from the
85-61 Signal from the OPDS
OPDS unit
Unit ('04-05 models):
DTC 85-62: Non-
Non-stipulated
85-62 stipulated Response Data
response data
('04-05 models) )
(see DTC 85-4x (85-40 to
Model ID code or 85-49, 85-4A to 85-4F),
85-63 variation code 85-5x (85-50 to 85-59, 85-
inconsistent 5A to 85-5F), 85-63, 85-
64: INTERNAL
ECU serial ID code FAILURE OF THE
85-64
inconsistent OPDS/ODS UNIT )
85-71 (see DTC 85-71, 85-78:
OPDS unit not
OPDS/ODS unit not
85-78 initialized
initialized )
(see DTC 85-4x (85-40 to
85-49, 85-4A to 85-4F),
OPDS drift check 85-5x (85-50 to 85-59, 85-
86-79
failure 5A to 85-5F), 85-63, 85-
the OPDS/ODS Unit )
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2007 Honda Accord
Faulty seat-back
86-1x (see DTC 85-71, 85-78:
OPDS sensor
OPDS/ODS unit not
Faulty seat support initialized )
86-2x
OPDS sensor
(see DTC 87-31: Internal
87-31 Failure of the
OPDS unit
OPDS/ODS Unit )
(see DTC 87-31: Internal
The side airbag cutoff
87-32 Failure of the
indicator stays on
OPDS/ODS Unit )
(see DTC 91-1x (91-10 to
Internal failure of the 91-19, 91-1A to 91-1F):
91-1x
SRS unit Internal Failure of the
SRS Unit )
(see DTC 91-1x (91-10 to
Short in SRS indicator 91-19, 91-1A to 91-1F):
91-2x
circuit Internal Failure of the
SRS Unit )
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X
(see DTC 92-1x (92-10 to
92-19, 92-1A to 92-1F):
Open in passenger's Passenger's Airbag
92-1x
airbag cutoff indicator Cutoff Indicator
Malfunction ('04-06
models) )
X
(see DTC 92-1x (92-10 to
92-19, 92-1A to 92-1F):
Short to ground in
Passenger's Airbag
92-2x passenger's airbag
Cutoff Indicator
cutoff indicator
Malfunction ('04-06
models) )
(see DTC A1-1x (A1-10
Faulty power supply to A1-19, A1-1A to A1-
A1-1x
(VA line) 1F): Faulty Power
Supply (VA Line) )
(see DTC A2-1x (A2-10
Faulty power supply to A2-19, A2-1A to A2-
A2-1x
(VB line) 1F): Faulty Power
Supply (VB Line) )
Driver's airbag and/or
D1-11 driver's seat belt
tensioner deployed
X
Front passenger's
airbag and/or front
D2-11
passenger's seat belt
tensioner deployed
Driver's side airbag
D3-11
deployed
Front passenger's side
D4-11
airbag deployed
D7-11 Rear-end collisioned (see DTC 55-3x (55-30 to
55-39, 55-3A to 55-3F),
E2-11 Front passenger's 55-4x (55-40 to 55-49, 55-
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2007 Honda Accord
airbag deployed 4A to 55-4F), 55-7x (55-

Front passenger's side 70 to 55-79, 55-7A to 55-
E4-11 7F): Internal Failure of
airbag deployed
Driver's airbag and/or the SRS Unit )
F1-11 driver's seat belt
tensioner deployed
Front passenger's
airbag and/or front
F2-11
tensioner deployed
F3-11
deployed
F4-11
airbag deployed

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX - DENSO SRS UNIT ('03-05 MODELS)

(see DTC 11-1X (11-10 TO

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2007 Honda Accord
11-19,11-1A TO 11-1F):
Open in driver's OPEN IN DRIVER'S
11-1x X
airbag first inflator AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-2X (11-20 TO
11-29,11-2A TO 11-2F):
Increased resistance
INCREASED
11-2x X in driver's airbag
RESISTANCE IN
first inflator
DRIVER'S FIRST
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-3X (11-30 TO
11-39,11-3A TO 11-3F):
Short to another
SHORT TO ANOTHER
wire or decreased
11-3x X WIRE OR DECREASED
resistance in driver's
RESISTANCE IN
DRIVER'S AIRBAG
FIRST INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-4X (11-40 TO
Open in driver's 11-49,11-4A TO 11-4F):
11-4x X airbag second OPEN IN DRIVER'S
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-5X (11-50 TO
11-59,11-5A TO 11-5F):
INCREASED
11-5x X in driver's airbag
RESISTANCE IN
second inflator
DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-6X (11-60 TO
11-6x X resistance in driver's WIRE OR DECREASED
airbag second RESISTANCE IN
inflator DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
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(see DTC 11-8X (11-80 TO

11-8x X driver's airbag first SHORT TO POWER IN
FIRST INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-9X (11-90 TO
11-9x X driver's airbag first SHORT TO GROUND IN
FIRST INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-AX (11-A0
Short to power in TO 11-A9, 11-AA TO 11-
11-Ax X driver's airbag AF): SHORT TO POWER
second inflator IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 11-BX (11-B0
TO 11-B9, 11-BA TO 11-
Short to ground in
BF): SHORT TO
11-Bx X driver's airbag
GROUND IN DRIVER'S
second inflator
AIRBAG SECOND
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-1X (12-10 TO
Open in front 12-19, 12-1A TO 12-1F):
12-1x X passenger's airbag OPEN IN FRONT
FIRST INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-2X (12-20 TO
12-29, 12-2A TO 12-2F):
INCREASED
12-2x X in front passenger's
RESISTANCE IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
FIRST INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-3X (12-30 TO
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2007 Honda Accord
resistance in front WIRE OR DECREASED

12-3x X
FIRST INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-4X (12-40 TO
12-4x X passenger's airbag OPEN IN FRONT
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-5X (12-50 TO
Increased resistance 12-59, 12-5A TO 12-5F):
in front passenger's INCREASED
12-5X X
airbag second RESISTANCE IN FRONT
inflator PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-6X (12-60 TO
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-8X (12-80 TO
12-89, 12-8A TO 12-8F):
Short to power in
SHORT TO POWER IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-9X (12-90 TO
12-99, 12-9A TO 12-9F):
Short to ground in
SHORT TO GROUND IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-AX (12-A0
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TO 12-A9, 12-AA TO 12-

Short to power in
AF): SHORT TO POWER
front passenger's
12-Ax X IN FRONT
airbag second
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
inflator
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 12-BX (12-B0
Short to ground in TO 12-B9, 12-BA TO 12-
front passenger's BF): SHORT TO
12-Bx X
airbag second GROUND IN FRONT
inflator PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
(see DTC 21-1X (21-10 TO
21-19, 21-1A TO 21-1F):
Open in driver's seat
belt tensioner
SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 21-2X (21-20 TO
21-29, 21-2A TO 21-2F):
INCREASED
21-2x X in driver's seat belt
RESISTANCE IN
tensioner
DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 21-3X (21-30 TO
21-39, 21-3A TO 21-3F):
Short to another
SHORT TO ANOTHER
wire or decreased
RESISTANCE IN
seat belt tensioner
DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 21-8X (21-80 TO
21-8x X driver's seat belt SHORT TO POWER IN
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 21-9X (21-90 TO
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21-99, 21-9A TO 21-9F):

Short to ground in
SHORT TO GROUND IN
21-9x X driver's seat belt
DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
tensioner
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 22-1X (22-10 TO
22-1x X passenger's seat belt OPEN IN FRONT
tensioner PASSENGER'S SEAT
BELT TENSIONER )
(see DTC 22-2X (22-20 TO
22-29, 22-2A TO 22-2F):
INCREASED
22-2x X in front passenger's
RESISTANCE IN FRONT
seat belt tensioner
PASSENGER'S SEAT
BELT TENSIONER )
(see DTC 22-3X (22-30 TO
passenger's seat belt RESISTANCE IN FRONT
BELT TENSIONER )
(see DTC 22-8X (22-80 TO
22-89, 22-8A TO 22-8F):
Short to power in
SHORT TO POWER IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
seat belt tensioner
SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 22-9X (22-90 TO
22-99, 22-9A TO 22-9F):
Short to ground in
SHORT TO GROUND IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
seat belt tensioner
SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
(see DTC 31-1X (31-10 TO
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2007 Honda Accord
31-19, 31-1A TO 31-1F):

Open in driver's side OPEN IN DRIVER'S
31-1x X
airbag inflator SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 31-2X (31-20 TO
31-29, 31-2A TO 31-2F):
INCREASED
31-2x X in driver's side
RESISTANCE IN
airbag inflator
DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 31-3X (31-30 TO
31-39, 31-3A TO 31-3F):
Short to another
SHORT TO ANOTHER
wire or decreased
RESISTANCE IN
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 31-8X (31-80 TO
31-8x X driver's side airbag SHORT TO POWER IN
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 31-9X (31-90 TO
31-9x X driver's side airbag SHORT TO GROUND IN
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-1X (32-10 TO
32-1x X passenger's side OPEN IN FRONT
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-2X (32-20 TO
32-29, 32-2A TO 32-2F):
Increased resistance INCREASED
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2007 Honda Accord
in front passenger's RESISTANCE IN FRONT

32-2x X side airbag inflator PASSENGER'S SIDE
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-3X (32-30 TO
passenger's side RESISTANCE IN FRONT
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-8X (32-80 TO
32-89, 32-8A TO 32-8F):
Short to power in
SHORT TO POWER IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
(see DTC 32-9X (32-90 TO
32-99, 32-9A TO 32-9F):
Short to ground in
SHORT TO GROUND IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
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2007 Honda Accord


(CONT.)
(1) (2)
DTC Latch Reset Detection Item Notes
41-1x X No signal from the (see DTC 41-1X (41-10 TO
left front impact 41-19, 41-1A TO 41-1F):
sensor NO SIGNAL FROM THE
LEFT FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR )
41-2x Internal failure of the (see DTC 41-2X (41-20 TO
left front impact 41-29, 41-2A TO 41-2F),
41-9x X sensor 41-3X (41-30 TO 41-39,
41-3A TO 41-3F):
INTERNAL FAILURE
41-Bx OF THE LEFT FRONT
IMPACT SENSOR )
41-Cx X Faulty power supply (see DTC 41-CX (41-C0
to the left front impact TO 41-C9, 41-CA TO 41-
sensor CF): FAULTY POWER
SUPPLY TO THE LEFT
FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR )
right front impact 42-19, 42-1A TO 42-1F):
sensor NO SIGNAL FROM THE
RIGHT FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR )
right front impact 42-29, 42-2A TO 42-2F),
42-9x X sensor 42-3X (42-30 TO 42-39,
42-3A TO 42-3F):
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2007 Honda Accord
42-Bx INTERNAL FAILURE

OF THE RIGHT FRONT
IMPACT SENSOR )
42-Cx Faulty power supply (see DTC 42-CX (42-CO
to the right front TO 42-C9, 42-CA TO 42-
impact sensor CF): FAULTY POWER
SUPPLY TO THE
RIGHT FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR )
left side impact sensor 43-19, 43-1A TO 43-1F):
(First) NO SIGNAL FROM THE
LEFT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) )
left side impact sensor 43-29, 43-2A TO 43-2F),
(First) 43-3X (43-30 TO 43-39,
43-3A TO 43-3F), 43-BX
(43-B0 TO 43-B9, 43-BA
43-Bx X TO 43-BF): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE LEFT
SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
(FIRST) )
43-Cx Faulty power supply (see DTC 43-CX (43-C0
to the left side impact TO 43-C9, 43-CA TO 43-
sensor (First) CF): FAULTY POWER
SUPPLY TO THE LEFT
SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
(FIRST) )
right side impact 44-19, 44-1A TO 44-1F):
sensor (First) NO SIGNAL FROM THE
RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) )
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2007 Honda Accord
44-Bx X right side impact 44-29, 44-2A TO 44-2F),

sensor (First) 44-3X (44-30 TO 44-39,
44-3A TO 44-3F), 44-BX
(44-B0 TO 44-B9, 44-BA
TO 44- BF): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE
RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) )
44-Cx Faulty power supply (see DTC 44-CX (44-C0
to the right side TO 44-C9, 44-CA TO 44-
impact sensor (First) CF): FAULTY POWER
SUPPLY TO THE
RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) )
51-2x X Internal failure of (see DTC 51-2X (51-20 TO
51-4x SRS unit 51-29, 51-2A TO 51-2F),
51-4X (51-40 TO 51-49,
51-7x 51-4A TO 51-4F), 51-7X
52-8x X (51-70 TO 51-79, 51-7A
52-9x TO 51-7F): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE SRS
52-Ax UNIT )
52-Bx Internal failure of (see DTC 52-BX (52-B0
SRS unit TO 52-B9, 52-BA TO 52-
52-Cx BF), 52-CX (52-C0 TO 52-
52-Dx C9, 52-CA TO 52-CF), 52-
DX (52-D0 TO 52-D9, 52-
52-Ex DA TO 52-DF):
INTERNAL FAILURE
52-Fx
OF THE SRS UNIT )
53-3x X Internal failure of (see DTC 53-2x (53-20 TO
SRS unit 53-29, 53-2A TO 53-2F),
53-4x 53-3x (53-30 to 53-39, 53-
54-1x 3A TO 53-3F), 53-4x (53-
40 TO 53-49, 53-4A TO
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2007 Honda Accord
54-2x 53-4F): INTERNAL

54-3x FAILURE OF THE SRS
UNIT )
54-4x Internal failure of (see DTC 54-4X (54-40 TO
SRS unit 54-49, 54-4A TO 54-4F),
54-7x 54-5X (54-50 TO 54-59,
54-5A TO 54-5F), 54-6X
55-1x (54-60 TO 54-69,54-6A TO
54-6F): INTERNAL
UNIT )
55-7x Internal failure of (see DTC 55-3x (55-30 TO
SRS unit 55-39, 55-3A TO 55-3F),
55-4x (55-40 TO 55-49, 55-
4A TO 55-4F), 55-7x (55-
70 TO 55-79, 55-7A TO
55-7F): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE SRS
UNIT )

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2007 Honda Accord

(CONT.)
Reset
DTC Latch(1) (2) Detection Item Notes
(see DTC 61-1X (61-10 TO

61-19,61-1A TO 61-1F):
OPEN IN DRIVER'S
belt buckle switch
SEAT BELT BUCKLE
(with power seat)
SWITCH (WITH POWER
SEAT) )
61-1x
(see DTC 61-1X (61-10 TO
61-19,61-1A TO 61-1F):
OPEN IN DRIVER'S
belt buckle switch
SEAT BELT BUCKLE
(without power seat)
SWITCH (WITHOUT
POWER SEAT) )
(see DTC 61-2X (61-20 TO
61-29,61-2A TO 61-2F):
Short in driver's seat
SHORT IN DRIVER'S
X belt buckle switch
SEAT BELT BUCKLE
(with power seat)
SWITCH (WITH POWER
SEAT) )
61-2x
(see DTC 61-2X (61-20 TO
61-29, 61-2A TO 61-2F):
SHORT IN DRIVER'S
belt buckle switch
SEAT BELT BUCKLE
SWITCH (WITHOUT
POWER SEAT) )
(see DTC 62-1X (62-10 TO
passenger's seat belt OPEN IN FRONT
buckle switch (with PASSENGER'S SEAT
power seat) BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
(WITH POWER SEAT) )
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2007 Honda Accord
(see DTC 62-1X (62-10 TO

62-19,62-1A TO 62-1F):
Open in front
OPEN IN FRONT
62-1x PASSENGER'S SEAT
buckle switch (without
BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
power seat)
(WITHOUT POWER
SEAT) )
(see DTC 62-2X (62-20 TO
Short in front 62-29,62-2A TO 62-2F):
passenger's seat belt SHORT IN FRONT
(WITH POWER SEAT) )
62-2x (see DTC 62-2X (62-20 TO
62-29, 62-2A TO 62-2F):
Short in front
SHORT IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S SEAT
buckle switch (without
BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
power seat)
(WITHOUT POWER
SEAT) )
(see DTC 71-1x171-10 to
Open in driver's seat 71-19, 71-1A to 71-1F):
71-1x
position sensor Open in Driver's Seat
Position Sensor )
(see DTC 71-2X (71-20 TO
71-29, 71-2A TO 71-2F):
71-2x SHORT IN DRIVER'S
position sensor
SEAT POSITION
SENSOR )
(see DTC 71-22: SHORT
Short to power in
TO POWER IN
71-22 driver's seat position
DRIVER'S SEAT
sensor
POSITION SENSOR )
(see DTC 81-4X (81-40 TO
81-49, 81-4A TO 81-4F),
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2007 Honda Accord
81-5X (81-50 TO 81-59, 81-

81-4x 5A TO 81-5F), 81-63, 81-
Faulty front 64: INTERNAL FAILURE
passenger's weight OF THE FRONT
81-5x sensor unit PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
SENSOR UNIT ('04-05
MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-61: NO
No signal from the SIGNAL FROM FRONT
front passenger's PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
81-61
weight sensor unit SENSOR UNIT (WITH
(with side airbag) SIDE AIRBAG) ('04-05
MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-62: NON-
No signal from the
STIPULATED
front passenger's
81-62 RESPONSE DATA
weight sensor unit
(WITH SIDE AIRBAG)
('04-05 MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-4X (81-40 TO
Model ID code or 81-49, 81-4A TO 81-4F),
81-63 variation code 81-5X (81-50 TO 81-59, 81-
inconsistent 5A TO 81-5F), 81-63, 81-
64: INTERNAL FAILURE
OF THE FRONT
ECU serial ID code PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
81-64 SENSOR UNIT ('04-05
inconsistent
MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-71, 81-78:
81-71 Front passenger's FRONT PASSENGER'S
weight sensor unit WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT
81-78 does not calibrate DOES NOT CALIBRATE
('04-05 MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-79: FRONT
81-79 Front passenger's PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
weight sensors drift SENSORS DRIFT
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2007 Honda Accord
check failure CHECK FAILURE ('04-05

MODELS) )
(see DTC 82-1X (82-10 TO
82-19, 82-1A TO 82-1F):
No signal from the
NO SIGNAL FROM THE
inner side front
82-1x INNER SIDE FRONT
passenger's weight
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
sensor
SENSOR ('04-06
MODELS) )
(see DTC 83-2X (83-20 TO
83-29, 83-2A TO 83-2F):
No signal from the
NO SIGNAL FROM THE
outer side front
83-2x OUTER SIDE FRONT
passenger's weight
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
sensor
SENSOR ('04-06
MODELS) )
(see DTC 85-4X (85-40 TO
85-4x 85-49, 85-4A TO 85-4F),
85-5X (85-50 TO 85-59, 85-
Faulty OPDS unit 5A TO 85-5F), 85-63, 85-
64: INTERNAL FAILURE
85-5X OF THE OPDS/ODS
UNIT )
No signal from the (see DTC 85-61: NO
85-61
OPDS unit SIGNAL FROM THE
Non-stipulated OPDS UNIT ('04-05
85-62 MODELS) )
response data
Model ID code or (see DTC 85-4x (85-40 to
85-63 variation code 85-49, 85-4A to 85-4F), 85-
inconsistent 5x (85-50 to 85-59, 85-5A to
85-5F), 85-63, 85-64:
ECU serial ID code INTERNAL FAILURE OF
85-64
inconsistent THE OPDS/ODS UNIT )
85-71
OPDS unit not (see DTC 85-71, 85-78:
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2007 Honda Accord
initialized OPDS/ODS UNIT NOT

85-78
INITIALIZED )
(see DTC 85-79: OPDS
OPDS drift check
85-79 SENSOR DRIFT CHECK
failure
FAILURE )
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2007 Honda Accord
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2007 Honda Accord
X
Faulty seat-back OPDS (see DTC 86-1X (86-10 TO
86-1x
sensor 86-19, 86-1A TO 86-1F):
Faulty seat support FAULTY OPDS SEAT-
86-2x BACK SENSOR )
OPDS sensor
(see DTC 87-31:
87-31 INTERNAL FAILURE OF
OPDS unit
THE OPDS/ODS UNIT )
(see DTC 87-32: SIDE
The side airbag cutoff AIRBAG CUTOFF
87-32 X indicator stays on INDICATOR STAYS ON
('03-05 MODELS) )
(see DTC 91-1X (91-10 TO
Internal failure of the 91-19, 91-1A TO 91-1F):
91-1x
SRS unit INTERNAL FAILURE OF
THE SRS UNIT )
(see DTC 91-2X (91-20 TO
Short in SRS indicator 91-29, 91-2A TO 91-2F):
91-2x
circuit SHORT IN SRS
INDICATOR )
(see DTC 92-1X (92-10 TO
92-19, 92-1A TO 92-1F):
Short to power in
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
92-1x passenger's airbag
CUTOFF INDICATOR
cutoff indicator
MALFUNCTION ('04-06
MODELS) )
(see DTC 92-2X (92-20 TO
92-29, 92-2A TO 92-2F):
OPEN OR SHORT TO
Open in passenger's
GROUND IN
92-2x airbag cutoff indicator
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
CUTOFF INDICATOR
('04-06 MODELS) )
(see DTC 92-2X (92-20 TO

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2007 Honda Accord
92-29, 92-2A TO 92-2F):

OPEN OR SHORT TO
Short to ground in
GROUND IN
passenger's airbag
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
cutoff indicator
CUTOFF INDICATOR
('04-06 MODELS) )
(see DTC A1-1X (A1-10
Faulty power supply TO A1-19, A1-1A TO A1-
A1-1x
(VA line) 1F): FAULTY POWER
SUPPLY (VA LINE) )
(see DTC A2-1X (A2-10
Faulty power supply TO A2-19, A2-1A TO A2-
A2-1x
(VB line) 1F): FAULTY POWER
SUPPLY (VB LINE) )
tensioner deployed
X Front passenger's
airbag and/or front
D2-11
tensioner deployed
(see DTC D1-11, D2-11,
D3-11 D3-11, D4-11, D7-11, E2-
deployed
11, E4-11, F1-11, F2-11,
Front passenger's side F3-11, F4-11: AIRBAGS,
D4-11
airbag deployed SIDE AIRBAGS, AND/OR
D7-11 Rear-end collisioned SEAT BELT
Front passenger's TENSIONERS
E2-11
airbag deployed DEPLOYED )
E4-11
airbag deployed
tensioner deployed
Front passenger's
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2007 Honda Accord
airbag and/or front

F2-11 passenger's seat belt
tensioner deployed
F3-11
deployed
F4-11
airbag deployed

verify the manufacturer of the SRS unit. The DTCs a re

(1) (2)
DTC Latch Reset Detection Item Notes
11-1x X Open or increased (see DTC 11-1X (11-10 TO
resistance in driver's 11-19,11-1A TO 11-1F):
airbag first inflator OPEN IN DRIVER'S
AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR )
11-3x X Short to another wire (see DTC 11-3X (11-30 TO
or decreased 11-39,11-3A TO 11-3F):
resistance in driver's SHORT TO ANOTHER
airbag first inflator WIRE OR DECREASED
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2007 Honda Accord
RESISTANCE IN
DRIVER'S AIRBAG
FIRST INFLATOR )
resistance in driver's 11-49,11-4A TO 11-4F):
airbag second OPEN IN DRIVER'S
INFLATOR )
or decreased 11-69,11-6A TO 11-6F):
airbag second WIRE OR DECREASED
inflator RESISTANCE IN
DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
11-8x X Short to power in (see DTC 11-8X (11-80 TO
driver's airbag first 11-89, 11-8A TO 11-8F):
inflator SHORT TO POWER IN
DRIVER'S AIRBAG
FIRST INFLATOR )
11-9x X Short to ground in (see DTC 11-9X (11-90 TO
driver's airbag first 11-99, 11-9A TO 11-9F):
inflator SHORT TO GROUND IN
DRIVER'S AIRBAG
FIRST INFLATOR )
11-Ax X Short to power in (see DTC 11-AX (11-A0
driver's airbag TO 11-A9, 11-AA TO 11-
second inflator AF): SHORT TO POWER
IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
11-Bx X Short to ground in (see DTC 11-BX (11-B0 TO
driver's airbag 11-B9, 11-BA TO 11-BF):
second inflator SHORT TO GROUND IN
DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
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2007 Honda Accord

resistance in front 12-19, 12-1A TO 12-1F):
passenger's airbag OPEN IN FRONT
FIRST INFLATOR )
or decreased 12-39, 12-3A TO 12-3F):
resistance in front SHORT TO ANOTHER
passenger's airbag WIRE OR DECREASED
first inflator RESISTANCE IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
FIRST INFLATOR )
passenger's airbag OPEN IN FRONT
SECOND INFLATOR )
passenger's airbag WIRE OR DECREASED
second inflator RESISTANCE IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
front passenger's 12-89, 12-8A TO 12-8F):
airbag first inflator SHORT TO POWER IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR )
airbag first inflator SHORT TO GROUND IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG FIRST
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2007 Honda Accord
INFLATOR )
12-Ax X Short to power in (see DTC 12-AX (12-A0
front passenger's TO 12-A9, 12-AA TO 12-
airbag second AF): SHORT TO POWER
inflator IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR )
12-Bx X Short to ground in (see DTC 12-BX (12-B0 TO
front passenger's 12-B9, 12-BA TO 12-BF):
airbag second SHORT TO GROUND IN
inflator FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG SECOND
INFLATOR )
resistance in driver's 21-19, 21-1A TO 21-1F):
seat belt tensioner OPEN IN DRIVER'S
SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
seat belt tensioner WIRE OR DECREASED
RESISTANCE IN
DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
driver's seat belt 21-89, 21-8A TO 21-8F):
tensioner SHORT TO POWER IN
DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
driver's seat belt 21-99, 21-9A TO 21-9F):
tensioner SHORT TO GROUND IN
DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
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2007 Honda Accord

BELT TENSIONER )
passenger's seat belt WIRE OR DECREASED
tensioner RESISTANCE IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S SEAT
BELT TENSIONER )
seat belt tensioner SHORT TO POWER IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
seat belt tensioner SHORT TO GROUND IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
SEAT BELT
TENSIONER )
resistance in driver's 31-19, 31-1A TO 31-1F):
side airbag inflator OPEN IN DRIVER'S SIDE
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
side airbag inflator WIRE OR DECREASED
RESISTANCE IN
INFLATOR )
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2007 Honda Accord

driver's side airbag 31-89, 31-8A TO 31-8F):
inflator SHORT TO POWER IN
INFLATOR )
driver's side airbag 31-99, 31-9A TO 31-9F):
inflator SHORT TO GROUND IN
INFLATOR )
passenger's side OPEN IN FRONT
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
passenger's side WIRE OR DECREASED
airbag inflator RESISTANCE IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S SIDE
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
side airbag inflator SHORT TO POWER IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
side airbag inflator SHORT TO GROUND IN
FRONT PASSENGER'S
SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
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2007 Honda Accord
resistance in left side 33-19, 33-1A TO 33-1F):

curtain airbag OPEN OR INCREASED
inflator RESISTANCE IN LEFT
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
resistance in left side SHORT TO ANOTHER
curtain airbag WIRE OR DECREASED
inflator RESISTANCE IN LEFT
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
left side curtain 33-89, 33-8A TO 33-8F):
airbag inflator SHORT TO POWER IN
LEFT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
left side curtain 33-99, 33-9A TO 33-9F):
airbag inflator SHORT TO GROUND IN
LEFT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
resistance in right 34-19, 34-1A TO 34-1F):
side curtain airbag OPEN OR INCREASED
inflator RESISTANCE IN RIGHT
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
resistance in right SHORT TO ANOTHER
side curtain airbag WIRE OR DECREASED
inflator RESISTANCE IN RIGHT
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
INFLATOR )
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2007 Honda Accord
34-8x X Short to power in

(see DTC 34-8X (34-80 TO
right side curtain
34-89, 34-8A TO 34-8F):
airbag inflator SHORT TO POWER IN
RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR )
right side curtain 34-99, 34-9A TO 34-9F):
airbag inflator SHORT TO GROUND IN
RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR )


(CONT.)
(see DTC 41-1X (41-10 TO
No signal from the 41-19, 41-1A TO 41-1F):
41-1x X left front impact NO SIGNAL FROM THE
sensor LEFT FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR )
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2007 Honda Accord
(see DTC 41-2X (41-20 TO

41-2x
41-29, 41-2A TO 41-2F),
X Internal failure of the 41-3X (41-30 TO 41-39, 41-
41-3x left front impact 3A TO 41-3F):
sensor INTERNAL FAILURE OF
41-Bx X THE LEFT FRONT
IMPACT SENSOR )
(see DTC 42-1X (42-10 TO
42-1x X right front impact NO SIGNAL FROM THE
sensor RIGHT FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR )
(see DTC 42-2X (42-20 TO
42-2x 42-29, 42-2A TO 42-2F),
X Internal failure of the 42-3X (42-30 TO 42-39, 42-
42-3x right front impact 3A TO 42-3F):
sensor INTERNAL FAILURE OF
42-Bx X THE RIGHT FRONT
IMPACT SENSOR )
(see DTC 43-1X (43-10 TO
43-1x X left side impact NO SIGNAL FROM THE
sensor (first) LEFT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) )
(see DTC 43-2X (43-20 TO
43-2x 43-29, 43-2A TO 43-2F),
43-3X (43-30 TO 43-39, 43-
X
Internal failure of the 3A TO 43-3F), 43-BX (43-
43-3x left side impact B0 TO 43-B9, 43-BA TO
sensor (first) 43-BF): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE LEFT
43-Bx X SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
(FIRST) )
(see DTC 44-1X (44-10 TO
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2007 Honda Accord
right side impact NO SIGNAL FROM THE

44-1x X sensor (first) RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) )
(see DTC 44-2X (44-20 TO
44-2x 44-29, 44-2A TO 44-2F),
44-3X (44-30 TO 44-39, 44-
X
Internal failure of the 3A TO 44-3F), 44-BX (44-
44-3x right side impact B0 TO 44-B9, 44-BA TO
sensor (first) 44- BF): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE
44-Bx X RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) )
(see DTC 45-1X (45-10 TO
No signal from left 45-19, 45-1A TO 45-1F):
45-1x X side impact sensor NO SIGNAL FROM THE
(second) LEFT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (SECOND) )
(see DTC 45-2X (45-20 TO
45-2x 45-29, 45-2A TO 45-2F),
45-3X (45-30 TO 45-39, 45-
X
Internal failure of 3A TO 45-3F), 45-BX (45-
45-3x left side impact B0 TO 45-B9, 45-BA TO
sensor (second) 45-BF): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE LEFT
45-Bx X SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
(SECOND) )
(see DTC 46-1X (46-10 TO
No signal from right 46-19, 46-1A TO 46-1F):
46-1x X side impact sensor NO SIGNAL FROM THE
(second) RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (SECOND) )
(see DTC 46-2X (46-20 TO
46-2x 46-29, 46-2A TO 46-2F),
X
46-3X (46-30 TO 46-39, 46-
Internal failure of 3A TO 46-3F), 46-BX (46-
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46-3x right side impact B0 TO 46-B9, 46-BA TO

sensor (second) 46-BF): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE
46-Bx X RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (SECOND) )
51-2x (see DTC 51-2X (51-20 TO
X 51-29, 51-2A TO 51-2F),
51-4x 51-4X (51-40 TO 51-49, 51-
Internal failure of 4A TO 51-4F), 51-7X (51-
52-8x
SRS unit 70 TO 51-79, 51-7A TO 51-
52-9x X 7F): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE SRS
52-Ax UNIT )
52-Bx (see DTC 52-BX (52-B0
TO 52-B9, 52-BA TO 52-
52-Cx
BF), 52-CX (52-C0 TO 52-
52-Dx X Internal failure of C9, 52-CA TO 52-CF), 52-
52-Ex SRS unit DX (52-D0 TO 52-D9, 52-
DA TO 52-DF):
52-Fx
INTERNAL FAILURE OF
53-1x X THE SRS UNIT )
53-2x (see DTC 53-2X (53-20 TO
53-29, 53-2A TO 53-2F),
53-3x
53-3X (53-30 TO 53-39, 53-
53-4x Internal failure of 3A TO 53-3F), 53-4X (53-
X
54-1x SRS unit 40 TO 53-49, 53-4A TO 53-
4F): INTERNAL
54-2x
FAILURE OF THE SRS
54-3x UNIT )
54-4x (see DTC 54-4X (54-40 TO
54-5x 54-49, 54-4A TO 54-4F),
Internal failure of 54-5X (54-50 TO 54-59, 54-
54-6x X
SRS unit 5A TO 54-5F), 54-6X (54-
54-7x 60 TO 54-69,54-6A TO 54-
6F): INTERNAL
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55-2x UNIT )
(see DTC 55-3X (55-30 TO
55-39, 55-3A TO 55-3F),
55-3x
55-4X (55-40 TO 55-49, 55-
Internal failure of 4A TO 55-4F), 55-7X (55-
X
SRS unit 70 TO 55-79, 55-7A TO 55-
7F): INTERNAL
55-4X
FAILURE OF THE SRS
UNIT )


(CONT.)
Open in driver's seat (see DTC 61-1X (61-10 TO

belt buckle switch 61-19,61-1A TO 61-1F):
(with power seat) OPEN IN DRIVER'S SEAT
BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
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(WITH POWER SEAT) )

(see DTC 61-1X (61-10 TO
61-19,61-1A TO 61-1F):
61-1x Open in driver's seat
OPEN IN DRIVER'S SEAT
belt buckle switch
BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
(WITHOUT POWER
SEAT) )
(see DTC 61-2X (61-20 TO
61-29,61-2A TO 61-2F):
SHORT IN DRIVER'S
belt buckle switch
SEAT BELT BUCKLE
(with power seat)
SWITCH (WITH POWER
SEAT) )
61-2x
(see DTC 61-2X (61-20 TO
61-29, 61-2A TO 61-2F):
SHORT IN DRIVER'S
belt buckle switch
SEAT BELT BUCKLE
X SWITCH (WITHOUT
POWER SEAT) )
(see DTC 62-1X (62-10 TO
(WITH POWER SEAT) )
62-1x (see DTC 62-1X (62-10 TO
62-19,62-1A TO 62-1F):
Open in front
OPEN IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S SEAT
buckle switch
BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
(WITHOUT POWER
SEAT) )
(see DTC 62-2X (62-20 TO
Short in front 62-29,62-2A TO 62-2F):
passenger's seat belt SHORT IN FRONT
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(WITH POWER SEAT) )
(see DTC 62-2X (62-20 TO
62-2x 62-29, 62-2A TO 62-2F):
Short in front
SHORT IN FRONT
PASSENGER'S SEAT
buckle switch
BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
(WITHOUT POWER
SEAT) )
(see DTC 71-1X171-10 TO
Open in driver's seat 71-19, 71-1A TO 71-1F):
71-1x
position sensor OPEN IN DRIVER'S SEAT
POSITION SENSOR )
(see DTC 71-2X (71-20 TO
71-29, 71-2A TO 71-2F):
71-2x SHORT IN DRIVER'S
position sensor
SEAT POSITION
SENSOR )
(see DTC 81-4X (81-40 TO
81-49, 81-4A TO 81-4F), 81-
81-4x 5X (81-50 TO 81-59, 81-5A
TO 81-5F), 81-63, 81-64:
Faulty ODS unit INTERNAL FAILURE OF
THE FRONT
81-5x PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
SENSOR UNIT ('04-05
MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-61: NO
SIGNAL FROM FRONT
No signal from the PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
81-61
ODS unit SENSOR UNIT (WITH
SIDE AIRBAG) ('04-05
MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-62: NON-
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STIPULATED RESPONSE
Non-stipulated DATA (WITH SIDE
81-62
response data AIRBAG) ('04-05
MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-4X (81-40 TO
Model ID code or 81-49, 81-4A TO 81-4F), 81-
81-63 variation code 5X (81-50 TO 81-59, 81-5A
inconsistent TO 81-5F), 81-63, 81-64:
INTERNAL FAILURE OF
THE FRONT
ECU serial ID code PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
81-64 SENSOR UNIT ('04-05
inconsistent
MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-71, 81-78:
81-71 FRONT PASSENGER'S
ODS unit does not
WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT
calibrate
81-78 DOES NOT CALIBRATE
('04-05 MODELS) )
(see DTC 81-79: FRONT
Front passenger's PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
81-79 weight sensors drift SENSORS DRIFT CHECK
check failure FAILURE ('04-05
MODELS) )
(see DTC 82-1X (82-10 TO
82-19, 82-1A TO 82-1F):
No signal from the
NO SIGNAL FROM THE
inner side front
82-1x INNER SIDE FRONT
passenger's weight
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
sensor
SENSOR ('04-06
MODELS) )
(see DTC 83-2X (83-20 TO
83-29, 83-2A TO 83-2F):
83-2x No signal from the NO SIGNAL FROM THE
outer side front OUTER SIDE FRONT
passenger's weight PASSENGER'S WEIGHT
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sensor SENSOR ('04-06

MODELS) )
(see DTC 85-4X (85-40 TO
85-4x 85-49, 85-4A TO 85-4F), 85-
5X (85-50 TO 85-59, 85-5A
Faulty ODS unit
TO 85-5F), 85-63, 85-64:
85-5x INTERNAL FAILURE OF
THE OPDS/ODS UNIT )
No signal from the (see DTC 85-61: NO
85-61
ODS unit SIGNAL FROM THE
Non-stipulated OPDS UNIT ('04-05
85-62 MODELS) )
response data
Model ID code or (see DTC 85-4x (85-40 to
85-63 variation code 85-49, 85-4A to 85-4F), 85-
inconsistent 5x (85-50 to 85-59, 85-5A to
85-5F), 85-63, 85-64:
ECU serial ID code INTERNAL FAILURE OF
85-64
inconsistent THE OPDS/ODS UNIT )
85-71 (see DTC 85-71, 85-78:
ODS unit not
OPDS/ODS UNIT NOT
85-78 initialized
INITIALIZED )
(see DTC 85-79: OPDS
ODS drift check
85-79 SENSOR DRIFT CHECK
failure
FAILURE )
Faulty seat-back (see DTC 86-1X (86-10 TO
86-1x
OPDS sensor 86-19, 86-1A TO 86-1F):
Faulty seat support FAULTY OPDS SEAT-
86-2x BACK SENSOR )
OPDS sensor
(see DTC 87-31:
87-31 INTERNAL FAILURE OF
ODS unit
THE OPDS/ODS UNIT )
The side airbag (see DTC 87-32: SIDE
87-32 cutoff indicator stays AIRBAG CUTOFF
on INDICATOR STAYS ON
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('03-05 MODELS) )
(see DTC 91-1X (91-10 TO
Internal failure of the 91-19, 91-1A TO 91-1F):
91-1x
SRS unit INTERNAL FAILURE OF
THE SRS UNIT )
(see DTC 91-2X (91-20 TO
Short in SRS 91-29, 91-2A TO 91-2F):
91-2x
indicator circuit SHORT IN SRS
INDICATOR )
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X
(see DTC 92-1X (92-10 TO
92-19, 92-1A TO 92-1F):
Open in passenger's
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
92-1x airbag cutoff
CUTOFF INDICATOR
indicator
MALFUNCTION ('04-06
MODELS) )
X (see DTC 92-2X (92-20 TO
92-29, 92-2A TO 92-2F):
Short to ground in OPEN OR SHORT TO
92-2x passenger's airbag GROUND IN
cutoff indicator PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
CUTOFF INDICATOR
('04-06 MODELS) )
(see DTC A1-1X (A1-10 TO
Faulty power supply A1-19, A1-1A TO A1-1F):
A1-1x
(VA line) FAULTY POWER
SUPPLY (VA LINE) )
(see DTC A2-1X (A2-10 TO
Faulty power supply A2-19, A2-1A TO A2-1F):
A2-1x
(VB line) FAULTY POWER
SUPPLY (VB LINE) )
Driver's airbag and
X tensioner deployed
Front passenger's
airbag and front
D2-11
tensioner deployed
D3-11
deployed
Front passenger's
D4-11
side airbag deployed
D7-11 Rear-end collisioned (see DTC D1-11, D2-11, D3-
11, D4-11, D7-11, E2-11,
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Front passenger's E4-11, F1-11, F2-11, F3-11,

E2-11
airbag deployed F4-11: Airbags, Side
Front passenger's Airbags, and/or Seat Belt
E4-11
side airbag deployed Tensioners Deployed )
Driver's airbag and
tensioner deployed
Front passenger's
airbag and front
F2-11
tensioner deployed
F3-11
deployed
Front passenger's
F4-11
side airbag deployed
When an OPDS sensor or seat weight sensor failure occurs, the DTC is stored by
the STS unit and the ODS unit. The ODS unit DTC is a subcode of the STS unit
DTC.
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Fig. 40: ODS Unit DTC Index ('06-07 Models)

SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX

Symptom Diagnostic procedure Also check for
Symptom Troubleshooting (see
SRS indicator does SYMPTOM
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not come on TROUBLESHOOTING )

Symptom Troubleshooting (see
SRS indicator stays
step 1 in SRS indicator stays
on, but no DTCs are
on, but no DTCs are stored
stored
('03-05 models) )
Make sure nothing is on
the front passenger's seat.
If the side airbag cutoff
indicator stays on after the
ignition switch is turned
ON (II), initialize the
OPDS/ODS unit (see
INITIALIZING THE
OPDS/ODS UNIT ).
Side airbag cutoff
If the side airbag
indicator stays on
after bulb check, and cutoff indicator DTC 87-32
no DTCs are stored, operates normally, the troubleshooting
or side airbag cutoff system is OK.
indicator is flashing If the side airbag
cutoff indicator stays
on, or flashes replace
the OPDS sensor/
seat-back (see
FRONT SEAT
COVER
REPLACEMENT ).
The sensor is part of
the seat-back pad.
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
SRS COMPONENTS
Airbags
The SRS is a safety device which, when used with the seat belt, is designed to help
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protect the driver and front passenger in a frontal impact exceeding a certain set
limit. The system consists of the SRS unit, including safing sensor and impact
sensor (A), the cable reel (B), the driver's airbag (C), the front passenger's airbag
(D), side airbags (E), side curtain airbags (L), seat belt tensioners (I), front impact
sensors (J), side impact sensors (first) (F) and side impact sensors (second) (K).
Since the driver's and front passenger's airbags use the same sensors, both normally
inflate at the same time. However, it is possible for only one airbag to inflate. This
can occur when the severity of a collision is at the margin, or threshold, that the
SRS unit determines whether or not the airbags will deploy. In such cases, the seat
belt will provide sufficient protection, and the supplemental protection offered by
the airbag would be minimal.
Front Passenger's Weight Sensors ('04-07 models)
The front passenger's weight sensor unit ('04-05 models) (M) is under the front
passenger's seat along with the weight sensors (N). The weight sensors detect the
weight on the seat, and send the information to the front passenger's weight sensor
unit ('04-05 models) or the ODS unit ('06-07 model). If the total weight is about 65
lbs (30 kg) or less, the front passenger's weight sensor unit or OPDS/ODS unit
sends a signal to the SRS unit to prevent the passenger's airbag from deploying.
When the passenger's airbag is disabled, the passenger airbag cutoff indicator on the
center panel comes on to alert the driver that the front passenger's airbag will not
deploy in a front-end collision.
Driver's Seat Position Sensor ('04-07 models)
The driver's seat position sensor (O) is under the driver's seat on the left side. When
the driver's seat is moved to its full forward position, the deployment of the driver's
airbag is moderated to decrease its force of impact during a front-end collision.
OPDS/ODS
The side airbag system also includes an occupant position detection system
(OPDS). This system consists of sensors (G) and a OPDS/ODS unit (H) in the front
passenger's seat-back. The OPDS/ODS unit sends occupant height and position data
to the SRS unit. If the OPDS/ODS unit determines that the front passenger is of
small stature (for example, a child) or the front passenger is leaning into the side
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airbag deployment path, the SRS unit will automatically disable the passenger's side
airbag. The SRS unit will also disable the airbag when the OPDS detects certain
objects on the seat. When the side airbag is disabled, the side airbag cutoff indicator
on the instrument panel alerts the driver that the passenger's side airbag will not
deploy in a side impact. When the object is removed, or the passenger sits upright,
the side airbag cutoff indicator will go off after a few seconds, alerting the driver
that the passenger's side airbag will deploy in a side impact.
Fig. 41: Identifying SRS Components ('03-05 Models)

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Fig. 42: Identifying SRS Components ('06-07 Models)

SIDE AIRBAG CUTOFF INDICATOR/OPDS/ODS OPERATION
The indicator comes on if the front passenger's seat is occupied by a small adult or
child who is leaning into the deployment path, or an object (grocery bag, briefcase,
purse, etc.) is in the seat. This indicates the passenger's side airbag is off and will
not deploy; there is no problem with the side airbag. If the passenger sits upright or
moves to another seat, or you remove the object from the seat, the light should go
off. There will be some delay between the occupant's repositioning, and when the
indicator will turn on or off.
PASSENGER AIRBAG CUTOFF INDICATOR
The indicator comes on if the weight of the front passenger is 65 lbs (30 kg) or less.
This indicates the passenger's front airbag is off and will not deploy. The front
airbag is shut off to reduce the chance of airbag-caused injuries.
SRS OPERATION
The main circuit in the SRS unit senses and judges the force of impact and, if
necessary, ignites the inflator charges. If battery voltage is too low or power is
disconnected due to the impact, the voltage regulator and the back-up power circuit,
respectively, will keep voltage at a constant level.
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For the SRS to operate
Seat Belt Tensioners
1. A front impact sensor must activate and send electric signals to the
microprocessor.
2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the tensioners.
3. The charges must ignite and deploy the tensioners.
Driver's and Front Passenger's Airbag(s)
1. A front impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the
microprocessor.
2. The microprocessor must compute the signals, and send them to the airbag
inflator(s).
3. The inflators that received signals must ignite and deploy the airbags.
Side Airbag(s)
1. Aside impact sensor must activate, and send electric signals to the
microprocessor.
2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side airbag
inflator(s). However, the microprocessor cuts off the signals to the front
passenger's side airbag if the SRS unit determines that the front passenger's
head is in the deployment path of the side airbag.
3. The inflator that received the signal must ignite and deploy the side airbag.
Side Curtain Airbag(s)
1. Side impact sensors must activate, and send electrical signals to the
microprocessor.
2. The microprocessor must compute the signals and send them to the side curtain
airbag and side airbag inflator(s).
3. The inflator that received the signals must ignite and deploy the side curtain
airbag and side airbag at the same time.
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Fig. 43: SRS System Electrical Diagram

Self-diagnosis System
A self-diagnosis circuit is built into the SRS unit; when the ignition switch is turned
ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on and goes off after about 6 seconds if the
system is operating normally.
If the indicator does not come on, or does not go off after 6 seconds, or if it comes
on while driving, it indicates an abnormality in the system. The system must be
inspected and repaired as soon as possible.
For better serviceability, the SRS unit memory stores a DTC that relates to the
cause of the malfunction, and the unit is connected to the data link connector
(DLC). This information can be read with the HDS when it is connected to the DLC
(16P) (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).
NOTE: Before you disconnect the battery negative cable for

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troubleshooting, make sure you have the anti-theft code for

the audio and the navigation system. Write down the audio
presets.
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-05 MODELS)
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Fig. 44: SRS System Circuit Diagram (Without Side Curtain Airbags - '03-05
Models - 1 Of 2)
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Fig. 45: SRS System Circuit Diagram (Without Side Curtain Airbags - '03-05
Models - 2 Of 2)
WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-05 MODELS)
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Fig. 46: SRS System Circuit Diagram (With Side Curtain Airbags - '03-05
Models - 1 Of 2)
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Fig. 47: SRS System Circuit Diagram (With Side Curtain Airbags - '03-05
Models - 2 Of 2)
('06-07 MODEL)
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Fig. 48: SRS System Circuit Diagram ('06-07 Models - 1 Of 2)

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Fig. 49: SRS System Circuit Diagram ('06-07 Models - 2 Of 2)

SRS UNIT INPUTS & OUTPUTS
CONNECTOR "A"
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Fig. 50: Identifying Connector "A" Inputs & Outputs

CONNECTOR "B"
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Fig. 51: Identifying Connector "B" Inputs & Outputs

CONNECTOR "C"
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Fig. 52: Indentifying Connector "C" Inputs & Outputs

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC CODES
DTC CODES INDEX

DTC Description
DTC 11 1x (11-10 to 11-19,11-1A to 11-1F):
Open in Driver's Airbag First Inflator
DTC 11 2x (11-20 to 11-29,11-2A to 11-2F):
Increased Resistance in Driver's First
Airbag Inflator
DTC 11 4x (11-40 to 11-49,11-4A to 11-4F):
Open in Driver's Airbag Second Inflator
DTC 11 5x (11-50 to 11-59,11-5A to 11-5F):
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Increased Resistance in Driver's Airbag

Second Inflator
DTC 11 3x (11-30 to 11-39,11-3A to 11-3F):
Short to Another Wire or Decreased
Resistance in Driver's Airbag First
Inflator
DTC 11 6x (11-60 to 11-69,11-6A to 11-6F):
Resistance in Driver's Airbag Second
Inflator
DTC 11 8x (11-80 to 11-89, 11-8A to 11-8F):
Short to Power in Driver's Airbag First
Inflator
DTC 11 Ax (11-A0 to 11-A9, 11-AA to 11-AF):
Short to Power in Driver's Airbag
Second Inflator
DTC 11 9x (11-90 to 11-99, 11-9A to 11-9F):
Short to Ground in Driver's Airbag First
Inflator
DTC 11 Bx (11-B0 to 11-B9, 11-BA to 11-BF):
Short to Ground in Driver's Airbag
Second Inflator
DTC 12 1x (12-10 to 12-19, 12-1A to 12-1F):
Open in Front Passenger's Airbag First
Inflator
DTC 12 2x (12-20 to 12-29, 12-2A to 12-2F):
Increased Resistance in Front
Passenger's Airbag First Inflator
DTC 12 4x (12-40 to 12-49, 12-4A to 12-4F):
Open in Front Passenger's Airbag
Second Inflator
DTC 12 5x (12-50 to 12-59, 12-5A to 12-5F):
Passenger's Airbag Second Inflator
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DTC 12 3x (12-30 to 12-39, 12-3A to 12-3F):

Resistance in Front Passenger's Airbag
First Inflator
DTC 12 6x (12-60 to 12-69, 12-6A to 12-6F):
Resistance in Front Passenger's Airbag
Second Inflator
DTC 12 8x (12-80 to 12-89, 12-8A to 12-8F):
Short to Power in Front Passenger's
Airbag First Inflator
DTC 12 Ax (12-A0 to 12-A9, 12-AA to 12-AF):
Airbag Second Inflator
DTC 12 9x (12-90 to 12-99, 12-9A to 12-9F):
Short to Ground in Front Passenger's
Airbag First Inflator
DTC 12 Bx (12-B0 to 12-B9, 12-BA to 12-BF):
Airbag Second Inflator
DTC 21 1x (21-10 to 21-19, 21-1A to 21-1F):
Open in Driver's Seat Belt Tensioner
DTC 21 2x (21-20 to 21-29, 21-2A to 21-2F):
Increased Resistance in Driver's Seat
Belt Tensioner
DTC 21 3x (21-30 to 21-39, 21-3A to 21-3F):
Resistance in Driver's Seat Belt
Tensioner
DTC 21 8x (21-80 to 21-89, 21-8A to 21-8F):
Short to Power in Driver's Seat Belt
Tensioner
DTC 21 9x (21-90 to 21-99, 21-9A to 21-9F):
Short to Ground in Driver's Seat Belt
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Tensioner
DTC 22 1x (22-10 to 22-19, 22-1A to 22-1F):
Open in Front Passenger's Seat Belt
Tensioner
DTC 22 2x (22-20 to 22-29, 22-2A to 22-2F):
Passenger's Seat Belt Tensioner
DTC 22 3x (22-30 to 22-39, 22-3A to 22-3F):
Resistance in Front Passenger's Seat
Belt Tensioner
DTC 22 8x (22-80 to 22-89, 22-8A to 22-8F):
Seat Belt Tensioner
DTC 22 9x (22-90 to 22-99, 22-9A to 22-9F):
Seat Belt Tensioner
DTC 31 1x (31-10 to 31-19, 31-1A to 31-1F):
Open in Driver's Side Airbag Inflator
DTC 31 2x (31-20 to 31-29, 31-2A to 31-2F):
Increased Resistance in Driver's Side
Airbag Inflator
DTC 31 3x (31-30 to 31-39, 31-3A to 31-3F):
Resistance in Driver's Side Airbag
Inflator
DTC 31 8x (31-80 to 31-89, 31-8A to 31-8F):
Short to Power in Driver's Side Airbag
Inflator
DTC 31 9x (31-90 to 31-99, 31-9A to 31-9F):
Short to Ground in Driver's Side Airbag
Inflator
DTC 32 1x (32-10 to 32-19, 32-1A to 32-1F):
Open in Front Passenger's Side Airbag
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Inflator
DTC 32 2x (32-20 to 32-29, 32-2A to 32-2F):
Passenger's Side Airbag Inflator
DTC 32 3x (32-30 to 32-39, 32-3A to 32-3F):
Resistance in Front Passenger's Side
Airbag Inflator
DTC 32 8x (32-80 to 32-89, 32-8A to 32-8F):
Side Airbag Inflator
DTC 32 9x (32-90 to 32-99, 32-9A to 32-9F):
Side Airbag Inflator
DTC 33 1x (33-10 to 33-19, 33-1A to 33-1F):
Open or Increased Resistance in Left
Side Curtain Airbag Inflator
DTC 33 3x (33-30 to 33-39, 33-3A to 33-3F):
Resistance in Left Side Curtain Airbag
Inflator
DTC 33 8x (33-80 to 33-89, 33-8A to 33-8F):
Short to Power in Left Side Curtain
Airbag Inflator
DTC 33 9x (33-90 to 33-99, 33-9A to 33-9F):
Short to Ground in Left Side Curtain
Airbag Inflator
DTC 34 1x (34-10 to 34-19, 34-1A to 34-1F):
Open or Increased Resistance in Right
Side Curtain Airbag Inflator
DTC 34 3x (34-30 to 34-39, 34-3A to 34-3F):
Resistance in Right Side Curtain Airbag
Inflator
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2007 Honda Accord
DTC 34 8x (34-80 to 34-89, 34-8A to 34-8F):

Short to Power in Right Side Curtain
Airbag Inflator
DTC 34 9x (34-90 to 34-99, 34-9A to 34-9F):
Short to Ground in Right Side Curtain
Airbag Inflator
DTC 41 1x (41-10 to 41-19, 41-1A to 41-1F):
No signal from the Left Front Impact
Sensor
DTC 41 Cx (41-C0 to 41-C9, 41-CA to 41-CF):
Faulty Power Supply to the Left Front
Impact Sensor
DTC 42 1x (42-10 to 42-19, 42-1A to 42-1F):
No Signal from the Right Front Impact
Sensor
DTC 42 Cx (42-CO to 42-C9, 42-CA to 42-CF):
Faulty Power Supply to the Right Front
Impact Sensor
DTC 41 2x (41-20 to 41-29, 41-2A to 41-2F),
41-3x (41-30 to 41-39, 41-3A to 41-3F):
Internal Failure of the Left Front Impact
Sensor
DTC 41 9x (41-90 to 41-99, 41-9A to 41-9F),
41-Bx (41-B0 to 41-B9, 41-BA to 41-
BF): Internal Failure of the Left Front
Impact Sensor
DTC 42 2x (42-20 to 42-29, 42-2A to 42-2F),
42-3x (42-30 to 42-39, 42-3A to 42-3F):
Internal Failure of the Right Front
Impact Sensor
DTC 42 9x (42-90 to 42-99, 42-9A to 42-9F),
42-Bx (42-B0 to 42-B9, 42-BA to 42-
BF): Internal Failure of the Right Front
Impact Sensor
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2007 Honda Accord
DTC 43 1x (43-10 to 43-19, 43-1A to 43-1F):

No Signal from the Left Side Impact
Sensor (first)
Faulty Power Supply to the Left Side
Impact Sensor (first)
DTC 44 1x (44-10 to 44-19, 44-1A to 44-1F):
No Signal from the Right Side Impact
Sensor (first)
Faulty Power Supply to the Right Side
DTC 43 2x (43-20 to 43-29, 43-2A to 43-2F),
43-3x (43-30 to 43-39, 43-3A to 43-3F),
43-Bx (43-B0 to 43-B9, 43-BA to 43-
BF): Internal Failure of the Left Side
DTC 44 2x (44-20 to 44-29, 44-2A to 44-2F),
44-3x (44-30 to 44-39, 44-3A to 44-3F),
44-Bx (44-B0 to 44-B9, 44-BA to 44-
BF): Internal Failure of the Right Side
DTC 45 1x (45-10 to 45-19, 45-1A to 45-1F):
No Signal from the Left Side Impact
Sensor (second)
DTC 46 1x (46-10 to 46-19, 46-1A to 46-1F):
No Signal from the Right Side Impact
Sensor (second)
DTC 45 2x (45-20 to 45-29, 45-2A to 45-2F),
45-3x (45-30 to 45-39, 45-3A to 45-3F),
45-Bx (45-B0 to 45-B9, 45-BA to 45-
BF): Internal Failure of the Left Side
Impact Sensor (second)
DTC 46 2x (46-20 to 46-29, 46-2A to 46-2F),
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2007 Honda Accord
46-3x (46-30 to 46-39, 46-3A to 46-3F),

46-Bx (46-B0 to 46-B9, 46-BA to 46-
BF): Internal Failure of the Right Side
Impact Sensor (second)
DTC 51 2x (51-20 to 51-29, 51-2A to 51-2F),
51-4x (51-40 to 51-49, 51-4A to 51-4F),
51-7x (51-70 to 51-79, 51-7A to 51-7F):
Internal Failure of the SRS Unit
DTC 52 8x (52-80 to 52-89, 52-8A to 52-8F),
52-9x (52-90 to 52-99, 52-9A to 52-9F),
52-Ax (52-A0 to 52-A9, 52-AA to 52-
AF): Internal Failure of the SRS Unit
DTC 52 Bx (52-B0 to 52-B9, 52-BA to 52-BF),
52-Cx (52-C0 to 52-C9, 52-CA to 52-
CF), 52-Dx (52-D0 to 52-D9, 52-DA to
52-DF): Internal Failure of the SRS
Unit
DTC 52 Ex (52-E0 to 52-E9, 52-EA to 52-EF),
52-Fx (52-F0 to 52-F9, 52-FA to 52-
FF), 53-1x (53-10 to 53-19, 53-1A to
53-1F): Internal Failure of the SRS Unit
DTC 53 2x (53-20 to 53-29, 53-2A to 53-2F),
53-3x (53-30 to 53-39, 53-3A to 53-3F),
53-4x (53-40 to 53-49, 53-4A to 53-4F):
DTC 54 1x (54-10 to 54-19, 54-1A to 54-1F),
54-2x (54-20 to 54-29, 54-2A to 54-2F),
54-3x (54-30 to 54-39, 54-3A to 54-3F):
DTC 54 4x (54-40 to 54-49, 54-4A to 54-4F),
54-5x (54-50 to 54-59, 54-5A to 54-5F),
54-6x (54-60 to 54-69,54-6A to 54-6F):
DTC 54 7x (54-70 to 54-79,54-7A to 54-7F), 55-
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2007 Honda Accord
1x (55-10 to 55-19,55-1A to 55-1F), 55-

2X (55-20 to 55-29,55-2A to 55-2F):
DTC 55 3x (55-30 to 55-39, 55-3A to 55-3F),
55-4x (55-40 to 55-49, 55-4A to 55-4F),
55-7x (55-70 to 55-79, 55-7A to 55-7F):
DTC D1 11, D2-11, D3-11, D4-11, D7-11, E2-
11, E4-11, F1-11, F2-11, F3-11, F4-11:
Airbags, Side Airbags, and/or Seat Belt
Tensioners Deployed
DTC 61 1x (61-10 to 61-19,61-1A to 61-1F):
Open in Driver's Seat Belt Buckle
Switch (with power seat)
DTC 61 1x (61-10 to 61-19,61-1A to 61-1F):
Open in Driver's Seat Belt Buckle
Switch (without power seat)
DTC 61 2x (61-20 to 61-29,61-2A to 61-2F):
Short in Driver's Seat Belt Buckle
Switch (with power seat)
DTC 61 2x (61-20 to 61-29, 61-2A to 61-2F):
Short in Driver's Seat Belt Buckle
Switch (without power seat)
DTC 62 1x (62-10 to 62-19, 62-1A to 62-1F):
Buckle Switch (with power seat)
DTC 62 1x (62-10 to 62-19,62-1A to 62-1F):
Buckle Switch (without power seat)
DTC 62 2x (62-20 to 62-29,62-2A to 62-2F):
Short in Front Passenger's Seat Belt
Buckle Switch (with power seat)
DTC 62 2x (62-20 to 62-29, 62-2A to 62-2F):
Short in Front Passenger's Seat Belt
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2007 Honda Accord
Buckle Switch (without power seat)

DTC 71 1x171-10 to 71-19, 71-1A to 71-1F):
Open in Driver's Seat Position Sensor
DTC 71 2x (71-20 to 71-29, 71-2A to 71-2F):
Short in Driver's Seat Position Sensor
DTC 71 22: Short to Power in Driver's Seat
Position Sensor
DTC 81 61: No Signal from Front Passenger's
Weight Sensor Unit (with side airbag)
('04-05 models)
DTC 81 62: Non-stipulated Response Data (with
side airbag) ('04-05 models)
DTC 81 61: No Signal from Front Passenger's
Weight Sensor Unit (without side
airbag) ('04-05 models)
DTC 81 62: Non-stipulated Response Data
(without side airbag) ('04-05 models)
DTC 81 4x (81-40 to 81-49, 81-4A to 81-4F),
81-5x (81-50 to 81-59, 81-5A to 81-5F),
81-63, 81-64: Internal Failure of the
Front Passenger's Weight Sensor Unit
('04-05 models)
DTC 81 79: Front Passenger's Weight Sensors
Drift Check Failure ('04-05 models)
DTC 81 71, 81-78: Front passenger's weight
sensor unit does not calibrate ('04-05
models)
DTC 81 71, 81-78: ODS unit does not calibrate
('06 model)
DTC 82 1x (82-10 to 82-19, 82-1A to 82-1F):
No Signal from the Inner Side Front
Passenger's Weight Sensor ('04-06
models)
DTC 83 2x (83-20 to 83-29, 83-2A to 83-2F):
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2007 Honda Accord
No Signal from the Outer Side Front

Passenger's Weight Sensor ('04-06
models)
DTC 85 4x (85-40 to 85-49, 85-4A to 85-4F),
85-5x (85-50 to 85-59, 85-5A to 85-5F),
85-63, 85-64: Internal Failure of the
OPDS/ODS Unit
DTC 85 79: OPDS Sensor Drift Check Failure
DTC 85 61: No Signal from the OPDS Unit ('04-
05 models)
DTC 85 62: Non-stipulated Response Data ('04-
05 models)
DTC 81 61, 85-61: No Signal from the ODS
Unit ('06 model)
DTC 81 62, 85-62: Non-stipulated Response
Data ('06 model)
DTC 85 71, 85-78: OPDS/ODS unit not
initialized
DTC 86 1x (86-10 to 86-19, 86-1A to 86-1F):
Faulty OPDS Seat-back Sensor
DTC 86 2x (86-20 to 86-29, 86-2A to 86-2F):
Faulty OPDS Seat Support Sensor
DTC 87 31: Internal Failure of the OPDS/ODS
Unit
DTC 87 32: Side Airbag Cutoff Indicator Stays
ON ('03-05 models)
DTC 87 32: Side Airbag Cutoff Indicator Stays
ON ('06 model)
DTC 91 1x (91-10 to 91-19, 91-1A to 91-1F):
DTC 91 2x (91-20 to 91-29, 91-2A to 91-2F):
Short in SRS Indicator
DTC 92 1x (92-10 to 92-19, 92-1A to 92-1F):
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2007 Honda Accord
Passenger's Airbag Cutoff Indicator

Malfunction ('04-06 models)
DTC 92 2x (92-20 to 92-29, 92-2A to 92-2F):
Open or Short to Ground in Passenger's
Airbag Cutoff Indicator ('04-06 models)
DTC A1 1x (A1-10 to A1-19, A1-1A to A1-1F):
Faulty Power Supply (VA Line)
DTC A2 1x (A2-10 to A2-19, A2-1A to A2-1F):
Faulty Power Supply (VB Line)
DTC 11-1X (11-10 TO 11-19,11-1A TO 11-1F): OPEN IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG FIRST INFLATOR
DTC 11-2X (11-20 TO 11-29,11-2A TO 11-2F): INCREASED RESISTANCE IN DRIVER'S FIRST

AIRBAG INFLATOR
DTC 11-4X (11-40 TO 11-49,11-4A TO 11-4F): OPEN IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG SECOND INFLATOR
DTC 11-5X (11-50 TO 11-59,11-5A TO 11-5F): INCREASED RESISTANCE IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG

SECOND INFLATOR
SRS inflator simulator 07SAZ-TB4011A

SRS simulator lead F 07XAZ-SZ30100
1. Erase the DTC memory (see ERASING THE DTC MEMORY WITH
HDS ).
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check that the SRS indicator comes on
for about 6 seconds and then goes off.
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 11-1x, 11-2x, 11-4x, or 11-5x
indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Go to
Troubleshooting Intermittent Failures (see TROUBLESHOOTING
INTERMITTENT FAILURES ). If another DTC is indicated, go to the
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX.
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2007 Honda Accord
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait
for 3 minutes.
4. Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (A) from the cable reel.
Fig. 53: Disconnecting Driver's Airbag 4P Connector From Cable Reel

5. Connect the SRS inflator simulator (2 ohms connectors) and simulator lead F
to the cable reel.
6. Reconnect the battery negative cable.
7. Erase the DTC memory.
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2007 Honda Accord
8. Read the DTC (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING

INFORMATION ).
Is DTC 11-1x, 11-2x, 11-4x, or 11-5x indicated?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open or increased resistance in the driver's airbag first or second
inflator; replace the driver's airbag (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
10. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness 4P connector (A) from the cable reel.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 54: Disconnecting Dashboard Wire Harness 4P Connector From

Cable Reel
11. Connect the SRS inflator simulator (2 ohms connectors) and the simulator lead
to the dashboard wire harness.
14. Read the DTC.
YES - Go to step 15.

NO - Open or increased resistance in the cable reel; replace the cable reel
(see CABLE REEL REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
16. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P) from the SRS unit (see step 16 in
DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ). Do not disconnect the
simulator lead from dashboard wire harness 4P connector.
17. Disconnect the SRS inflator simulator from SRS simulator lead F.
18. Check the resistance between the terminals of both SRS simulator leads. There
should be 1 ohms or less.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 55: Checking Resistance Between Terminals Of SRS Simulator Leads

Is the resistance as specified?
YES - Faulty SRS unit or poor contact at SRS unit connector A (28P) and
the SRS unit. Check the connection between the connector and the SRS
unit. If the connection is OK, replace the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Open or increased resistance in the dashboard wire harness; replace
the dashboard wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord
DTC 11-3X (11-30 TO 11-39,11-3A TO 11-3F): SHORT TO ANOTHER WIRE OR DECREASED

RESISTANCE IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG FIRST INFLATOR
DTC 11-6X (11-60 TO 11-69,11-6A TO 11-6F): SHORT TO ANOTHER WIRE OR DECREASED

RESISTANCE IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG SECOND INFLATOR

SRS short canceller 070AZ-SAA0100
HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 11-3x or 11-6x indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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2007 Honda Accord

to the cable reel.
INFORMATION ).
Is DTC 11-3x or 11-6x indicated?
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short in the driver's airbag first or second inflator; replace the
driver's airbag (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.

Cable Reel
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2007 Honda Accord

14. Read the DTC.

NO - Short in the cable reel; replace the cable reel (see CABLE REEL
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
simulator lead from dashboard wire harness 4P connector.
17. Disconnect the SRS inflator simulator from the SRS simulator lead. Do not
disconnect the simulator lead from dashboard wire harness 4P connector.
18. Connect SRS short cancellers (070AZ-SAA0100) to the No. 7 and No. 8
terminals and No. 1 and No.2 terminals of the SRS unit connector A (28P) (see
REOPENING THE SRS UNIT CIRCUIT FOR DIAGNOSIS ).
19. Check resistance between the terminals of both SRS simulator leads. There
should be an open circuit or at least 1 M ohms.
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2007 Honda Accord

REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Short in the dashboard wire harness; replace the dashboard wire
harness.
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2007 Honda Accord
DTC 11-8X (11-80 TO 11-89, 11-8A TO 11-8F): SHORT TO POWER IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR
DTC 11-AX (11-A0 TO 11-A9, 11-AA TO 11-AF): SHORT TO POWER IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR

HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 11-8x or 11-Ax indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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2007 Honda Accord

to the cable reel.
INFORMATION ).
Is DTC 11-8x or 11-Ax indicated?
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to power in the driver's airbag first or second inflator; replace
the driver's airbag (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.

Cable Reel
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2007 Honda Accord

14. Read the DTC.

NO - Short to power in the cable reel; replace the cable reel (see CABLE
REEL REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ).
17. Disconnect the SRS inflator simulator from the SRS simulator lead.
20. Check for voltage between each terminal of both SRS simulator leads and body
ground. There should be 0.5 V or less.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 61: Checking Voltage Between Terminal Of SRS Simulator Leads

And Body Ground
Is the voltage as specified?
REPLACEMENT ).
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short to power in the dashboard wire harness; replace the dashboard

wire harness.
DTC 11-9X (11-90 TO 11-99, 11-9A TO 11-9F): SHORT TO GROUND IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR
DTC 11-BX (11-B0 TO 11-B9, 11-BA TO 11-BF): SHORT TO GROUND IN DRIVER'S AIRBAG
SECOND INFLATOR

HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 11-9x or 11-Bx indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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2007 Honda Accord

to the cable reel.
INFORMATION ).
Is DTC 11-9x or 11-Bx indicated?

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to ground in the driver's airbag first or second inflator; replace
the driver's airbag (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.

Cable Reel
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14. Read the DTC.

NO - Short to ground in the cable reel; replace the cable reel (see CABLE
REEL REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
18. Check resistance between each terminal of both SRS simulator leads and body
ground. There should be an open circuit or at least 1 M ohms.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 64: Checking Resistance Between Terminal Of SRS Simulator Leads

And Body Ground

REPLACEMENT ).
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short to ground in the dashboard wire harness; replace the dashboard

wire harness.
DTC 12-1X (12-10 TO 12-19, 12-1A TO 12-1F): OPEN IN FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG FIRST
INFLATOR
DTC 12-2X (12-20 TO 12-29, 12-2A TO 12-2F): INCREASED RESISTANCE IN FRONT

PASSENGER'S AIRBAG FIRST INFLATOR
DTC 12-4X (12-40 TO 12-49, 12-4A TO 12-4F): OPEN IN FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG SECOND
INFLATOR

PASSENGER'S AIRBAG SECOND INFLATOR

HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 12-1x, 12-2x, 12-4x, or 12-5x
indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from the dashboard
wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

Dashboard Wire Harness
INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Open or increased resistance in the front passenger's airbag first or

second inflator; replace the front passenger's airbag (see FRONT
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
simulator lead from the dashboard wire harness 4P connector.
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2007 Honda Accord


YES - Faulty SRS unit or poor contact at SRS unit connector A (28P).
Check the connection; if the connection is OK, replace the SRS unit (see
SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Open or increased resistance in the dashboard wire harness; replace
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2007 Honda Accord
DTC 12-3X (12-30 TO 12-39, 12-3A TO 12-3F): SHORT TO ANOTHER WIRE OR DECREASED
RESISTANCE IN FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG FIRST INFLATOR
RESISTANCE IN FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG SECOND INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

INFORMATION ).

YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short in the front passenger's airbag first or second inflator; replace

the front passenger's airbag (see FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
12. Connect SRS short cancellers (070AZ-SAA0100) to the No. 9 and No. 10
terminals and the No. 3 and No. 4 terminal of the SRS unit connector A (28P)
(see REOPENING THE SRS UNIT CIRCUIT FOR DIAGNOSIS ).
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2007 Honda Accord

REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Short in the dashboard wire harness; replace the dashboard wire
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2007 Honda Accord
harness.
DTC 12-8X (12-80 TO 12-89, 12-8A TO 12-8F): SHORT TO POWER IN FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG FIRST INFLATOR
DTC 12-AX (12-A0 TO 12-A9, 12-AA TO 12-AF): SHORT TO POWER IN FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG SECOND INFLATOR

HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 12-8x or 12-Ax indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to power in the front passenger's airbag first or second inflator;
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2007 Honda Accord
replace the front passenger's airbag (see FRONT PASSENGER'S

AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
disconnect the simulator lead from the dashboard wire harness 4P connector.
14. Check for voltage between each terminal of both SRS simulator leads and body
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 70: Checking Voltage Between Terminal Of SRS Simulator Leads

And Body Ground
REPLACEMENT ).
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short to power in the dashboard wire harness; replace the dashboard

wire harness.
DTC 12-9X (12-90 TO 12-99, 12-9A TO 12-9F): SHORT TO GROUND IN FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG FIRST INFLATOR
DTC 12-BX (12-B0 TO 12-B9, 12-BA TO 12-BF): SHORT TO GROUND IN FRONT PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG SECOND INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to ground in the front passenger's airbag first or second
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2007 Honda Accord
inflator; replace the front passenger's airbag (see FRONT

PASSENGER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
12. Check resistance between each terminal of both SRS simulator leads and body
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Fig. 72: Checking Resistance Between Terminal Of SRS Simulator Leads

And Body Ground
REPLACEMENT ).
wire harness.
DTC 21-1X (21-10 TO 21-19, 21-1A TO 21-1F): OPEN IN DRIVER'S SEAT BELT TENSIONER
DTC 21-2X (21-20 TO 21-29, 21-2A TO 21-2F): INCREASED RESISTANCE IN DRIVER'S SEAT
BELT TENSIONER

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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2007 Honda Accord
4. Disconnect the driver's seat belt tensioner 4P connector (A) from the floor wire
harness.
Fig. 73: Disconnecting Driver's Seat Belt Tensioner 4P Connector From

Floor Wire Harness
to the floor wire harness.
INFORMATION ).
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open or increased resistance in the driver's seat belt tensioner;
replace the driver's seat belt (see FRONT SEAT BELT
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
10. Disconnect the front passenger's seat belt tensioner connector (see step 6 in
11. Disconnect SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit (see step 16 in
12. Check resistance between the No. 1 and the No. 2 terminals of SRS unit
connector B (28P). There should be 2.0-3.0 ohms.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 74: Checking Resistance Between 1 And 2 Terminals Of SRS Unit

Connector B
Is resistance as specified?
YES - Faulty SRS unit or poor contact at SRS unit connector B (28P) and
the SRS unit. Check the connection; if the connection is OK, replace the
SRS unit (see SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Open or increased resistance in the floor wire harness; replace the
floor wire harness.
RESISTANCE IN DRIVER'S SEAT BELT TENSIONER
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2007 Honda Accord

HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 21-3x indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

Floor Wire Harness
INFORMATION ).
Is DTC 21-3x indicated?
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short in the driver's seat belt tensioner; replace the driver's seat belt
(see FRONT SEAT BELT REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
12. Disconnect the simulator lead from the floor wire harness.
connector B (28P). There should be an open circuit or at least 1 M ohms.
Fig. 76: Checking Resistance Between No. 1 And 2 Terminals Of SRS Unit
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2007 Honda Accord
Connector B
NO - Short in the floor wire harness; replace the floor wire harness.
DTC 21-8X (21-80 TO 21-89, 21-8A TO 21-8F): SHORT TO POWER IN DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
harness.
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Floor Wire Harness
INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short to power in the driver's seat belt tensioner; replace the driver's
seat belt (see FRONT SEAT BELT REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
15. Check for voltage between the No. 1 terminal of SRS unit connector B (28P)
and body ground, and between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There
should be 0.5 V or less.
Fig. 78: Checking Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of SRS Unit

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Connector B (28P) And Body Ground

NO - Short to power in the floor wire harness; replace the floor wire
harness.
DTC 21-9X (21-90 TO 21-99, 21-9A TO 21-9F): SHORT TO GROUND IN DRIVER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

Floor Wire Harness
INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short to ground in the driver's seat belt tensioner; replace the driver's
seat belt (see FRONT SEAT BELT REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
13. Check resistance between the No. 1 terminals of SRS unit connector B (28P)
Fig. 80: Checking Resistance Between No. 1 Terminals Of SRS Unit

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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Short to ground in the floor wire harness; replace the floor wire
harness.
DTC 22-1X (22-10 TO 22-19, 22-1A TO 22-1F): OPEN IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT
TENSIONER

PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT TENSIONER

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Disconnect the front passenger's seat belt tensioner 4P connector (A) from the
floor wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 81: Disconnecting Front Passenger's Seat Belt Tensioner 4P

Connector From Floor Wire Harness
INFORMATION ).

YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Open or increased resistance in the front passenger's seat belt

tensioner; replace the front passenger's seat belt (see FRONT SEAT
BELT REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
10. Disconnect the driver's seat belt tensioner connector (see step 6 in
12. Check resistance between the No. 3 and the No. 4 terminal of SRS unit
connector B (28P). There should be 2.0-3.0 ohms.
Fig. 82: Checking Resistance Between No. 3 And 4 Terminal Of SRS Unit
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2007 Honda Accord
Connector B
Is resistance as specified?
floor wire harness.
RESISTANCE IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT TENSIONER

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
floor wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short in the front passenger's seat belt tensioner; replace the front
passenger's seat belt (see FRONT SEAT BELT REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
connector B (28P). There should be an open circuit or at least 1 M ohms.
Fig. 84: Checking Resistance Between No. 3 And 4 Terminals Of SRS Unit
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Connector B
DTC 22-8X (22-80 TO 22-89, 22-8A TO 22-8F): SHORT TO POWER IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT
BELT TENSIONER

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
floor wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short to power in the front passenger's seat belt tensioner; replace

the front passenger's seat belt (see FRONT SEAT BELT
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
should be 0.5 V or less.
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2007 Honda Accord

harness.
SEAT BELT TENSIONER

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2007 Honda Accord

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
floor wire harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short to ground in the front passenger's seat belt tensioner; replace

the front passenger's seat belt (see FRONT SEAT BELT
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
Disconnecting System Connectors ).
13. Check resistance between the No. 3 terminal of SRS unit connector B (28P)
Fig. 88: Checking Resistance Between No. 3 Terminal Of SRS Unit

Connector B And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

harness.
DTC 31-1X (31-10 TO 31-19, 31-1A TO 31-1F): OPEN IN DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG INFLATOR
DTC 31-2X (31-20 TO 31-29, 31-2A TO 31-2F): INCREASED RESISTANCE IN DRIVER'S SIDE
AIRBAG INFLATOR

SRS simulator lead E 07XAZ-S1A0200
HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector (A) from the driver's side
airbag.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 89: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 2P Connector From Driver's

Side Airbag
5. Connect the SRS inflator simulator (2 ohms connector) and simulator lead E to
the floor wire harness.
INFORMATION ).

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open or increased resistance in the driver's side airbag inflator;
replace the driver's side airbag (see SIDE AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
10. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P connectors (see step 6 in Disconnecting
System Connectors ).
13. Check resistance between the terminals of the SRS simulator lead. There
should be 1.0 ohms or less.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 90: Checking Resistance Between Terminals Of SRS Simulator Lead

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2007 Honda Accord
floor wire harness.

RESISTANCE IN DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
airbag.
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2007 Honda Accord

Side Airbag
INFORMATION ).

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to another wire in the driver's side airbag inflator; replace the
driver's side airbag (see SIDE AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
10. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P connectors (see step 6 in
13. Connect the SRS short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) to the No. 21 and No. 22
terminals of SRS unit connector B (28P) (see REOPENING THE SRS UNIT
CIRCUIT FOR DIAGNOSIS ).
14. Check resistance between the terminals of SRS simulator lead E. There should
be an open circuit or at least 1 M ohms.
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E
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DTC 31-8X (31-80 TO 31-89, 31-8A TO 31-8F): SHORT TO POWER IN DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
airbag.
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2007 Honda Accord

Side Airbag
INFORMATION ).

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to power in the driver's side airbag inflator; replace the driver's
side airbag (see SIDE AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
15. Check for voltage between each terminal of SRS simulator lead E and body
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 94: Checking Voltage Between Terminal Of SRS Simulator Lead E

And Body Ground
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harness.
DTC 31-9X (31-90 TO 31-99, 31-9A TO 31-9F): SHORT TO GROUND IN DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
airbag.
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2007 Honda Accord

Side Airbag
INFORMATION ).
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to ground in the driver's side airbag inflator; replace the
driver's side airbag (see SIDE AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
13. Check resistance between each terminal of SRS simulator lead E and body
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 96: Checking Resistance Between Terminal Of SRS Simulator Lead E

And Body Ground
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harness.
DTC 32-1X (32-10 TO 32-19, 32-1A TO 32-1F): OPEN IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SIDE AIRBAG
INFLATOR

PASSENGER'S SIDE AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 32-1x or 32-x indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector (A) from the front passenger's
side airbag.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 97: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 2P Connector From Front

Passenger's Side Airbag
INFORMATION ).

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open or increased resistance in the front passenger's side airbag
inflator; replace the front passenger's side airbag (see SIDE AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
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2007 Honda Accord

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floor wire harness.

RESISTANCE IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SIDE AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
side airbag.
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2007 Honda Accord

5. Connect the SRS inflator simulator (2 ohms, connector) and simulator lead E to
INFORMATION ).

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to another wire in the front passenger's side airbag inflator;
replace the front passenger's side airbag (see SIDE AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
terminals of SRS unit connector B (28P) (see REOPENING THE SRS UNIT
should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.
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DTC 32-8X (32-80 TO 32-89, 32-8A TO 32-8F): SHORT TO POWER IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SIDE
AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
side airbag.
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INFORMATION ).
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to power in the front passenger's side airbag inflator; replace
the front passenger's side airbag (see SIDE AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
11. Disconnect SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit (see step 16
inDISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ).
disconnect the simulator lead from the floor wire harness 2P connector.
15. Check for voltage between each terminal of the SRS simulator lead and body
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Fig. 102: Checking Voltage Between Terminal Of SRS Simulator Lead

And Body Ground
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harness.
SIDE AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
side airbag.
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INFORMATION ).

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to ground in the front passenger's side airbag inflator; replace
the front passenger's side airbag (see SIDE AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
disconnect the simulator lead from the floor wire harness 2P connector.
13. Check resistance between each terminal of the SRS simulator lead and body
ground. There should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.
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Fig. 104: Checking Resistance Between Terminal Of SRS Simulator Lead

And Body Ground
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harness.
DTC 33-1X (33-10 TO 33-19, 33-1A TO 33-1F): OPEN OR INCREASED RESISTANCE IN LEFT SIDE
CURTAIN AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Disconnect the left side curtain airbag 2P connector from the side curtain
airbag subharness (A).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 105: Disconnecting Left Side Curtain Airbag 2P Connector From Side
Curtain Airbag Subharness
the side curtain airbag subharness.
INFORMATION ).
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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open or increased resistance in the left side curtain airbag; replace
the left side curtain airbag (see SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
10. Disconnect SRS unit connector C (16P) from the SRS unit (see step 16 in
simulator lead from the side curtain airbag subharness.
disconnect the simulator lead from the side curtain airbag subharness.
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YES - Faulty SRS unit or poor contact at the SRS unit connector C (16P)
and the SRS unit. Check the connection; if the connection is OK, replace
the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Open or increased resistance in the side curtain airbag subharness;
replace the side curtain airbag subharness.
RESISTANCE IN LEFT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to another wire in the left side curtain airbag inflator; replace
the left side curtain airbag (see SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
terminals of SRS unit connector C (16P) (see REOPENING THE SRS UNIT
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YES - Faulty SRS unit or poor contact at SRS unit connector C (16P) and
NO - Short to another wire in the side curtain airbag subharness; replace
DTC 33-8X (33-80 TO 33-89, 33-8A TO 33-8F): SHORT TO POWER IN LEFT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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2007 Honda Accord
side curtain airbag subharness.
INFORMATION ).
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to power in the left side curtain airbag inflator; replace the left
side curtain airbag (see SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
10. Disconnect the SRS unit connector C (16P) from the SRS unit (see step 16 in
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2007 Honda Accord

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And Body Ground

NO - Short to power in the side curtain airbag subharness; replace the side
curtain airbag subharness.
DTC 33-9X (33-90 TO 33-99, 33-9A TO 33-9F): SHORT TO GROUND IN LEFT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to ground in the left side curtain airbag inflator; replace the left
side curtain airbag (see SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
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And Body Ground

NO - Short to ground in the side curtain airbag subharness; replace the
DTC 34-1X (34-10 TO 34-19, 34-1A TO 34-1F): OPEN OR INCREASED RESISTANCE IN RIGHT
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
Does the SRS Indicator stay on, and is DTC 34-1x indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Disconnect the right side curtain airbag 2P connector from the side curtain
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 113: Disconnecting Right Side Curtain Airbag 2P Connector From

Side Curtain Airbag Subharness
INFORMATION ).
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open or increased resistance in the right side curtain airbag inflator,
replace the right side curtain airbag (see SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
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NO - Open or increased resistance in the side curtain airbag subharness;
replace the side curtain airbag subharness.
RESISTANCE IN RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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INFORMATION ).
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to another wire in the right side curtain airbag inflator; replace
the right side curtain airbag (see SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
terminals of SRS unit connector C (16P) (see REOPENING THE SRS UNIT
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2007 Honda Accord

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YES - Faulty SRS unit or poor contact at SRS unit connector C(16P) and
NO - Short in the side curtain airbag subharness; replace the side curtain
airbag subharness.
DTC 34-8X (34-80 TO 34-89, 34-8A TO 34-8F): SHORT TO POWER IN RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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2007 Honda Accord

INFORMATION ).
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to power in the right side curtain airbag inflator; replace the
right side curtain airbag (see SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
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And Body Ground

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DTC 34-9X (34-90 TO 34-99, 34-9A TO 34-9F): SHORT TO GROUND IN RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAG INFLATOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
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INFORMATION ).
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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to ground in the right side curtain airbag inflator; replace the
right side curtain airbag (see SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT ).
for 3 minutes.
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And Body Ground

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DTC 41-1X (41-10 TO 41-19, 41-1A TO 41-1F): NO SIGNAL FROM THE LEFT FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR

SRS simulator lead H 07YAZ-S3AA100
HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Check the connections between SRS unit
connector A (28P) and the SRS unit, between the engine compartment wire
harness 2P connector and the left front impact sensor (see FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR REPLACEMENT ), and at connector C403 (see ENGINE
COMPARTMENT WIRE HARNESS (LEFT BRANCH) ).
Are the connections OK?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Repair the poor connections and retest. If DTC 41-1x is still present,
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2007 Honda Accord
go to step 4.
4. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait for 3 minutes.
Fig. 121: Disconnecting Engine Compartment Wire Harness 2P Connector

From Left Front Impact Sensor
5. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (A) from the
left front impact sensor.
7. Check resistance between the No. 15 and No. 27 terminals of SRS unit
connector A (28P). There should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 122: Checking Resistance Between No. 15 And 27 Terminals Of SRS

Unit Connector A
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Short in the engine compartment wire harness or dashboard wire
harness; replace the faulty harness.
8. Check resistance between the No. 15 terminal of SRS unit connector A (28P)
should be an open circuit or at lest 1 Mohms.
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2007 Honda Accord

Connector A (28P) And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Short to ground in the dashboard wire harness or engine
compartment wire harness; replace the faulty harness.
11. Check for voltage between the No. 15 terminal of SRS unit connector A (28P)
should be 1 V or less.
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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Short to power in the engine compartment wire harness or the
dashboard wire harness; replace the faulty harness.
13. Connect the SRS inflator simulator (jumper connector) and simulator lead H to
the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (A).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 125: Connecting SRS Inflator Simulator And Simulator Lead H To

Engine Compartment Wire Harness 2P Connector
connector A (28P). There should be 0-1.0 ohms.
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Unit Connector A
YES - Faulty left front impact sensor or SRS unit-replace the left front
impact sensor (see FRONT IMPACT SENSOR REPLACEMENT ). If
the problem is still present, replace the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Poor connection at C403, faulty engine compartment wire harness,
or faulty dashboard wire harness. Inspect C403. If it is OK, replace the
faulty harness.
DTC 41-CX (41-C0 TO 41-C9, 41-CA TO 41-CF): FAULTY POWER SUPPLY TO THE LEFT FRONT
IMPACT SENSOR
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2007 Honda Accord
HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 41-Cx indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
left front impact sensor.
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2007 Honda Accord

From Left Front Impact Sensor
and body ground. There should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 7.

Unit Connector A

YES - Faulty left front impact sensor or SRS unit; replace the left front
REPLACEMENT ).
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short in the dashboard wire harness or engine compartment wire

DTC 42-1X (42-10 TO 42-19, 42-1A TO 42-1F): NO SIGNAL FROM THE RIGHT FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Check the connections between SRS unit
connector A (28P) and the SRS unit, between the engine compartment wire
harness 2P connector and the right front impact sensor (see FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR REPLACEMENT ), and at connector C403 (see ENGINE
COMPARTMENT WIRE HARNESS (LEFT BRANCH) ).

YES - Go to step 4.
go to step 4.
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2007 Honda Accord
right front impact sensor.

From Right Front Impact Sensor
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Unit Connector A
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Short in the engine compartment wire harness or dashboard wire
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 9.
11. Check for voltage between the No. 16 terminal of SRS unit connector A (28P)
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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Short to power in the engine compartment wire harness or dashboard
wire harness; replace the faulty harness.
13. Connect the SRS inflator simulator (jumper connector) and the simulator lead
to the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (A).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 134: Connecting SRS Inflator Simulator And Simulator Lead To

Engine Compartment Wire Harness 2P Connector
connector A (28P). There should be 0-1.0 ohms.
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Unit Connector A

YES - Faulty right front impact sensor or SRS unit; replace the right front
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Poor connection at C403, faulty engine compartment wire harness,
or faulty dashboard wire harness. Inspect C403. If it is OK, replace the
faulty harness.
DTC 42-CX (42-CO TO 42-C9, 42-CA TO 42-CF): FAULTY POWER SUPPLY TO THE RIGHT
FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
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2007 Honda Accord
HDS ).
Does the SRS Indicator stay on, and is DTC 42-Cx indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
right front impact sensor.
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From Right Front Impact Sensor

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 7.

Unit Connector A

YES - Faulty right front impact sensor or SRS unit; replace the right front
REPLACEMENT ).
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Short in the dashboard wire harness or engine compartment wire

DTC 41-2X (41-20 TO 41-29, 41-2A TO 41-2F), 41-3X (41-30 TO 41-39, 41-3A TO 41-3F): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE LEFT FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
HDS ).
YES - Replace the left front impact sensor (see FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR REPLACEMENT ). If DTC returns, replace the SRS unit (see
DTC 41-9X (41-90 TO 41-99, 41-9A TO 41-9F), 41-BX (41-B0 TO 41-B9, 41-BA TO 41-BF): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE LEFT FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
HDS ).
YES - Replace the left front impact sensor (see FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR REPLACEMENT ). If the DTC returns, replace the SRS unit
(see SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
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2007 Honda Accord

DTC 42-2X (42-20 TO 42-29, 42-2A TO 42-2F), 42-3X (42-30 TO 42-39, 42-3A TO 42-3F): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE RIGHT FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
HDS ).
YES - Replace the right front impact sensor (see FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR REPLACEMENT ). If DTC returns, replace the SRS unit (see
DTC 42-9X (42-90 TO 42-99, 42-9A TO 42-9F), 42-BX (42-B0 TO 42-B9, 42-BA TO 42-BF): INTERNAL
FAILURE OF THE RIGHT FRONT IMPACT SENSOR
HDS ).
YES - Replace the right front impact sensor (see FRONT IMPACT
SENSOR REPLACEMENT ). If the DTC returns, replace the SRS unit
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2007 Honda Accord
DTC 43-1X (43-10 TO 43-19, 43-1A TO 43-1F): NO SIGNAL FROM THE LEFT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST)

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Check the connection between the floor wire harness 2P connector and the left
side impact sensor (first).
Is the connection OK?

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair the poor connections and retest. If the DTC 43-1x is still
present, go to step 5.
6. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector (A) from the left side impact
sensor (first).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 139: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 2P Connector From Left Side
Impact Sensor (First)
connector B (28P). There should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.
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2007 Honda Accord

Unit Connector B
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord


harness.
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2007 Honda Accord


harness.
the floor wire harness 2P connector (A).
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2007 Honda Accord

Floor Wire Harness 2P Connector
connector B (28P). There should be 1.0 ohms or less.
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2007 Honda Accord

Unit Connector B
YES - Faulty left side impact sensor (first) or SRS unit; replace the left
side impact sensor (first) (see SIDE IMPACT SENSOR (FIRST)
REPLACEMENT ). If the problem is still present, replace the SRS unit
NO - Open in the floor wire harness; replace the floor wire harness.
DTC 43-CX (43-C0 TO 43-C9, 43-CA TO 43-CF): FAULTY POWER SUPPLY TO THE LEFT SIDE
IMPACT SENSOR (FIRST)
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2007 Honda Accord
HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
impact sensor (first).
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2007 Honda Accord

Side Impact Sensor (First)
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2007 Honda Accord


YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Short to ground in the floor wire harness, replace the floor wire
harness.
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2007 Honda Accord

Unit Connector B

YES - Faulty driver's side impact sensor (first) or SRS unit; replace the
sensor (first) (see SIDE IMPACT SENSOR (FIRST)
DTC 44-1X (44-10 TO 44-19, 44-1A TO 44-1F): NO SIGNAL FROM THE RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST)
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2007 Honda Accord

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Check the connection between the floor wire harness 2P connector and the
right side impact sensor (first).
YES - Go to step 5.
6. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector (A) from the right side impact
sensor (first).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 148: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 2P Connector From Right

Side Impact Sensor (First)
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Unit Connector B

YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord


harness.
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harness.
the floor wire harness 2P connector (A).
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2007 Honda Accord

Floor Wire Harness 2P Connector
connector B (28P). There should be 1.0 ohms or less.
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2007 Honda Accord

Unit Connector B
YES - Faulty right side impact sensor (first) or SRS unit; replace the right
side impact sensor (first) (see SIDE IMPACT SENSOR (FIRST)
DTC 44-CX (44-C0 TO 44-C9, 44-CA TO 44-CF): FAULTY POWER SUPPLY TO THE RIGHT SIDE
IMPACT SENSOR (FIRST)
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2007 Honda Accord
HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
5. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector (A) from the right side impact
sensor (first).
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Fig. 154: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 2P Connector From Right

Side Impact Sensor
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Fig. 155: Checking Resistance Between 25 Terminal Of SRS Unit


YES - Go to step 8.
harness.
connector B (28P). There should be an open circuit, or at least 1 Mohms.
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Unit Connector B
YES - Faulty right side impact sensor (first) or SRS unit; replace the
sensor (see SIDE IMPACT SENSOR (FIRST) REPLACEMENT ). If
REPLACEMENT ).
DTC 43-2X (43-20 TO 43-29, 43-2A TO 43-2F), 43-3X (43-30 TO 43-39, 43-3A TO 43-3F), 43-BX (43-B0
TO 43-B9, 43-BA TO 43-BF): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE LEFT SIDE IMPACT SENSOR (FIRST)
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HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 43-2x, 43-3x, or 43-Bx
indicated?
YES - Replace the left side impact sensor (first) (see SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) REPLACEMENT ). If the DTC returns, replace the
TO 44-B9, 44-BA TO 44- BF): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE RIGHT SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
(FIRST)
HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC42-2x, 44-3x, or 44-Bx
indicated?
YES - Replace the right side impact sensor (first) (see SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (FIRST) REPLACEMENT ). If the DTC returns, replace the
DTC 45-1X (45-10 TO 45-19, 45-1A TO 45-1F): NO SIGNAL FROM THE LEFT SIDE IMPACT
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SENSOR (SECOND)

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Check the connection between the side curtain airbag subharness 2P connector
and the left side impact sensor (second).

YES - Go to step 5.
5. Disconnect the left side curtain airbag 2P connector and side curtain airbag
subharness (see step 5 in DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ).
6. Disconnect the side curtain airbag subharness 2P connector (A) from the left
side impact sensor (second).
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Fig. 157: Disconnecting Side Curtain Airbag Subharness 2P Connector

From Left Side Impact Sensor (Second)
connector C (16P). There should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.
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Unit Connector C
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YES - Go to step 9.
airbag subharness.
9. Check resistance between the No. 9 terminal of SRS unit connector C (16P)
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Connector C (16P) And Body Ground
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12. Check for voltage between the No. 9 terminal of SRS unit connector C (16P)
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the side curtain airbag subharness 2P connector (A).

Side Curtain Airbag Subharness 2P Connector
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connector C (16P). There should be 1.0 ohms or less.

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Unit Connector C
YES - Faulty left side impact sensor (second) or SRS unit; replace the left
side impact sensor (second) (see SIDE IMPACT SENSOR (SECOND)
NO - Open in the side curtain airbag subharness; replace the side curtain
airbag subharness.
DTC 46-1X (46-10 TO 46-19, 46-1A TO 46-1F): NO SIGNAL FROM THE RIGHT SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (SECOND)

HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Check the connection between the side curtain airbag subharness 2P connector
and the right side impact sensor (second).
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YES - Go to step 5.
5. Disconnect the right side curtain airbag 2P connector and side curtain airbag
subharness (see step 5 in DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ).
6. Disconnect the side curtain airbag subharness 2P connector (A) from the right
side impact sensor (second).
Fig. 163: Disconnecting Side Curtain Airbag Subharness 2P Connector

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From Right Side Impact Sensor (Second)

connector C (16P). There should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.
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Unit Connector C
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YES - Go to step 9.
airbag subharness.
9. Check resistance between the No. 15 terminal of SRS unit connector C (16P)
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12. Check for voltage between the No. 15 terminal of SRS unit connector C (16P)
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the side curtain airbag subharness 2P connector (A).
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Side Curtain Airbag Subharness 2P Connector
connector C (16P). There should be 1.0 ohms or less.
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Unit Connector C
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YES - Faulty right side impact sensor (second) or SRS unit; replace the
right side impact sensor (second) (see SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
(SECOND) REPLACEMENT ). If the problem is still present, replace
NO - Open in the side curtain airbag subharness; replace the side curtain
airbag subharness.
TO 45-B9, 45-BA TO 45-BF): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE LEFT SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
(SECOND)
HDS ).
indicated?
YES - Replace the left side impact sensor (second) (see SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (SECOND) REPLACEMENT ). If the DTC returns, replace
TO 46-B9, 46-BA TO 46-BF): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE RIGHT SIDE IMPACT SENSOR
(SECOND)
HDS ).
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indicated?
YES - Replace the right side impact sensor (second) (see SIDE IMPACT
SENSOR (SECOND) REPLACEMENT ). If the DTC returns, replace
DTC 51-2X (51-20 TO 51-29, 51-2A TO 51-2F), 51-4X (51-40 TO 51-49, 51-4A TO 51-4F), 51-7X (51-70
TO 51-79, 51-7A TO 51-7F): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE SRS UNIT
NOTE: Before troubleshooting any of these DTCs, check the

battery/system voltage. If the voltage is low, repair the
charging system or replace the battery before
troubleshooting the SRS. If the battery/system voltage is
now OK, ask the customer if the battery ever went dead. A
dead battery may trigger one of these DTCs.
HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 51-2x, 51-4x, or 51-7x
indicated?
YES - Replace the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).

DTC 52-8X (52-80 TO 52-89, 52-8A TO 52-8F), 52-9X (52-90 TO 52-99, 52-9A TO 52-9F), 52-AX (52-A0
TO 52-A9, 52-AA TO 52-AF): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE SRS UNIT
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HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 52-8x, 52-9x, or 52-Ax
indicated?

DTC 52-BX (52-B0 TO 52-B9, 52-BA TO 52-BF), 52-CX (52-C0 TO 52-C9, 52-CA TO 52-CF), 52-DX
(52-D0 TO 52-D9, 52-DA TO 52-DF): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE SRS UNIT

HDS ).
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Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 52-Bx, 52-Cx, or 52-Dx
indicated?

DTC 52-EX (52-E0 TO 52-E9, 52-EA TO 52-EF), 52-FX (52-F0 TO 52-F9, 52-FA TO 52-FF), 53-1X (53-
10 TO 53-19, 53-1A TO 53-1F): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE SRS UNIT

HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 52-Ex, 52-Fx, or 53-1x
indicated?


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HDS ).
indicated?


HDS ).
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indicated?
TO 54-69,54-6A TO 54-6F): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE SRS UNIT

HDS ).
indicated?

DTC 54-7X (54-70 TO 54-79,54-7A TO 54-7F), 55-1X (55-10 TO 55-19,55-1A TO 55-1F), 55-2X (55-20
TO 55-29,55-2A TO 55-2F): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE SRS UNIT

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HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 54-7x, 55-1 x, or 55-2x
indicated?


HDS ).
indicated?
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DTC D1-11, D2-11, D3-11, D4-11, D7-11, E2-11, E4-11, F1-11, F2-11, F3-11, F4-11: AIRBAGS, SIDE
AIRBAGS, AND/OR SEAT BELT TENSIONERS DEPLOYED
The SRS unit must be replaced after any airbags and/or tensioners have deployed
(see COMPONENT REPLACEMENT/INSPECTION AFTER
DEPLOYMENT ).
DTC 61-1X (61-10 TO 61-19,61-1A TO 61-1F): OPEN IN DRIVER'S SEAT BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
(WITH POWER SEAT)
HDS ).
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then buckle and unbuckle the driver's seat
belt several times.
INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 4.
INTERMITTENT FAILURES ).
5. Disconnect the driver's seat wire harness 3P connector from the driver's seat
belt buckle switch 3P connector (A).
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Fig. 169: Disconnecting Driver's Seat Wire Harness 3P Connector From

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Driver's Seat Belt Buckle Switch 3P Connector

6. Buckle the driver's seat belt.

Check resistance between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals of the driver's seat belt
buckle switch 3P connector. There should be 0-1 ohms.
Check resistance between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals of the same connector.
There should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.
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Fig. 170: Checking Resistance Between No. 1 And 3 Terminals Of Driver's

Seat Belt Buckle Switch 3P Connector
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Are the resistance as specified?

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Replace the driver's seat belt buckle assembly (see FRONT SEAT
BELT REPLACEMENT ), then clear the DTC.
7. Unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
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YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the driver's seat belt buckle assembly, then clear the DTC.
8. Check resistance between the No. 3 terminal of the driver's seat wire harness
3P connector and body ground. There should be 0-1 ohms.
Fig. 172: Checking Resistance Between No. 3 Terminal Of Driver's Seat

Wire Harness 3P Connector And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open in the driver's seat wire harness or floor wire harness, or poor
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ground connection at G601 (see FLOOR WIRE HARNESS (LEFT

BRANCH) (4-DOOR) ). If G601 is OK, replace the faulty harness.
9. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
10. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P connectors from the floor wire harness
(see step 6 in DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ).
and the No. 1 terminal of the driver's seat wire harness 3P connector. There
should be 0-1 ohms.

Connector B (28P) And No. 1 Terminal Of Driver's Seat Wire Harness 3P
Connector
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NO - Open in the driver's seat wire harness or floor wire harness; replace
the faulty harness.
and the No. 2 terminal of the driver's seat wire harness 3P connector. There
should be 0-1 ohms.

Connector B (28P) And No. 2 Terminal Of Driver's Seat Wire Harness 3P
Connector

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NO - Open in the driver's seat wire harness or floor wire harness, or poor
connection at the floor wire harness. Check the connections at the floor
wire harness, connector F (14P), and connector H (14P) at the under-dash
fuse/relay box. If the connections are OK, replace the faulty harness or
part.
DTC 61-1X (61-10 TO 61-19,61-1A TO 61-1F): OPEN IN DRIVER'S SEAT BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
(WITHOUT POWER SEAT)
HDS ).
belt several times.
INFORMATION ).

YES - Go to step 4.
5. Disconnect the floor wire harness 3P connector from the driver's seat belt
buckle switch 3P connector (A).
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YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Replace the driver's seat belt buckle assembly (see SEAT BELT
BUCKLE ), then clear the DTC.
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YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the driver's seat belt buckle assembly (see SEAT BELT
BUCKLE ), then clear the DTC.
8. Check resistance between the No. 1 terminal of the floor wire harness 3P
connector and body ground. There should be 0-1 ohms.
Fig. 178: Checking Resistance Between No. 1 Terminal Of Floor Wire

Harness 3P Connector And Body Ground
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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open in the floor wire harness or poor ground connection at G601
(see FLOOR WIRE HARNESS (LEFT BRANCH) (4-DOOR) ). If
G601 is OK, replace the floor wire harness.
10. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connector from the seat belt tensioner
(see step 6 on FRONT SEAT BELT - 2-DOOR ).
and the No. 3 terminal of the floor wire harness 3P connector. There should be
0-1 ohms.

Connector B And No. 3 Terminal Of Floor Wire Harness 3P Connector
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0---1 ohms.

Connector B And 2 Terminal Of Floor Wire Harness 3P Connector

NO - Open in the floor wire harness, or poor connection at the floor wire
harness. Check the connections at the floor wire harness, connector F
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(14P), and connector H (14P) at the under-dash fuse/relay box. If the

connections are OK, replace the faulty harness or part.
DTC 61-2X (61-20 TO 61-29,61-2A TO 61-2F): SHORT IN DRIVER'S SEAT BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
(WITH POWER SEAT)
HDS ).
belt several times.
INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 4.
5. Disconnect the driver's seat harness 3P connector from the driver's seat belt
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Fig. 181: Disconnecting Driver's Seat Harness 3P Connector From

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Driver's Seat Belt Buckle Switch 3P Connector


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YES - Go to step 7.
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YES - Go to step 8.
8. Check resistance between body ground and driver's seat belt buckle switch 3P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. There should be an open circuit or at least
1 Mohms.
Fig. 184: Checking Resistance Between Body Ground And Driver's Seat
Belt Buckle Switch 3P Connector Terminals No. 1 And 2
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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Replace the driver's seat belt buckle assembly.
3P connector and body ground. There should be an open circuit or at least 1
Mohms.

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YES - Check the connections at the floor wire harness connector F <14P),
and connector H (14P) at the under-dash fuse/relay box. If the connections
are OK, go to step 13.
NO - Short to ground in the driver's seat wire harness, floor wire harness,
or multiplex control unit. Replace the faulty harness or part.
3P connector and body ground. There should be an open circuit or at least 1
Mohms

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NO - Short to ground in the driver's seat wire harness or floor wire
DTC 61-2X (61-20 TO 61-29, 61-2A TO 61-2F): SHORT IN DRIVER'S SEAT BELT BUCKLE SWITCH
(WITHOUT POWER SEAT)
HDS ).
belt several times.
INFORMATION ).

YES - Go to step 4.
5. Disconnect the floor wire harness 3P connector from the driver's seat belt
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YES - Go to step 7.
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YES - Go to step 8.
8. Check resistance between body ground and driver's seat belt buckle switch 3P
connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3. There should an open circuit or at least 1
Mohms.
Fig. 190: Checking Resistance Between Body Ground And Driver's Seat
Belt Buckle Switch 3P Connector Terminals No. 2 And 3
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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Replace the driver's seat belt buckle assembly.
connector and body ground. There should be an open circuit or at least 1
Mohms.
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YES - Check the connections at the floor wire harness, connector F (14P),
and connector H (14P) at the under-dash fuse/relay box. If the connections
are OK, go to step 13.
NO - Short to ground in the floor wire harness or the multiplex control
unit. Replace the faulty harness or part.
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Mohms.


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harness.
DTC 62-1X (62-10 TO 62-19, 62-1A TO 62-1F): OPEN IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT
BUCKLE SWITCH (WITH POWER SEAT)
HDS ).
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then buckle and unbuckle the front
passenger's seat belt several times.
INFORMATION ).

YES - Go to step 4.
5. Disconnect the front passenger's seat belt buckle switch 3P connector (A) from
the passenger's seat wire harness.
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Fig. 193: Disconnecting Front Passenger's Seat Belt Buckle Switch 3P

Connector From Passenger's Seat Wire Harness
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6. Buckle the front passenger's seat belt.
Check resistance between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals of the front
passenger's seat belt buckle switch 3P connector. There should be 0-1 ohms.
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Fig. 194: Checking Resistance Between No. 1 And 3 Terminals Of Front

Passenger's Seat Belt Buckle Switch 3P Connector
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YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Replace the front passenger's seat belt buckle assembly, then clear
the DTC.
7. Unbuckle the front passenger's seat belt.
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YES - Go to step 8.
the DTC.
8. Check resistance between the No. 3 terminal of the passenger's seat wire
harness 3P connector and body ground. There should be 0-1 ohms.
Fig. 196: Checking Resistance Between No. 3 Terminal Of Passenger's

Seat Wire Harness 3P Connector And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 9.
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NO - Open in the passenger's seat wire harness or floor wire harness, or

poor ground connection at G602 (see FLOOR WIRE HARNESS (LEFT
BRANCH) (4-DOOR) ). If G602 is OK, replace the faulty harness.
and the No. 1 terminal of the passenger's seat wire harness 3P connector. There
should be 0-1 ohms.

Connector B And No. 1 Terminal Of Passenger's Seat Wire Harness 3P
Connector
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NO - Open in the passenger's seat wire harness or floor wire harness;
replace the faulty harness.
and the No. 2 terminal of the passenger's seat wire harness 3P connector. There
should be 0-1 ohms.

Connector B And No. 2 Terminal Of Passenger's Seat Wire Harness 3P
Connector

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NO - Open in the passenger's seat wire harness or floor wire harness;

DTC 62-1X (62-10 TO 62-19,62-1A TO 62-1F): OPEN IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT
BUCKLE SWITCH (WITHOUT POWER SEAT)
HDS ).
INFORMATION ).

YES - Go to step 4.
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YES - Go to step 7.
the DTC.
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YES - Go to step 8.
the DTC.
connector and body ground. There should be 0-1 ohms.

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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Open in the floor wire harness or poor ground connection at G602
(see FLOOR WIRE HARNESS (LEFT BRANCH) (4-DOOR) ). If
G602 is OK, replace the floor wire harness.
0-1 ohms.

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0---1 ohms.


DTC 62-2X (62-20 TO 62-29,62-2A TO 62-2F): SHORT IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT
BUCKLE SWITCH (WITH POWER SEAT)
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HDS ).
INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 4.
the passenger's seat wire harness.
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Connector From Passenger's Seat Wire Harness
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YES - Go to step 7.
the DTC.
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YES - Go to step 8.
the DTC.
8. Check continuity between body ground and front passenger's seat belt buckle
switch 3P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.
Fig. 208: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground And Front

Passenger's Seat Belt Buckle Switch 3P Connector Terminals No. 1 And 2
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Is there continuity?
YES - Replace the front passenger's seat belt buckle assembly.

NO - Go to step 9.
harness 3P connector and body ground. There should be an open circuit or at
least 1 Mohms.

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NO - Short to ground in the passenger's seat wire harness or floor wire
harness 3P connector and body ground. There should be an open circuit or at
least 1 Mohms.


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NO - Short to ground in the passenger's seat wire harness or floor wire
DTC 62-2X (62-20 TO 62-29, 62-2A TO 62-2F): SHORT IN FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT
BUCKLE SWITCH (WITHOUT POWER SEAT)
HDS ).
INFORMATION ).

YES - Go to step 4.
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YES - Go to step 7.
the DTC.
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YES - Go to step 8.
the DTC.
8. Check continuity between body ground and front passenger's seat belt buckle
switch 3P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3.
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Fig. 214: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground And Front

Passenger's Seat Belt Buckle Switch 3P Connector Terminals No. 2 And 3
YES - Replace the front passenger's seat belt buckle assembly.

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NO - Go to step 9.
Mohms.
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harness.
Mohms.
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harness.
DTC 71-1X171-10 TO 71-19, 71-1A TO 71-1F): OPEN IN DRIVER'S SEAT POSITION SENSOR
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HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Check the connection between the seat position sensor harness 2P connector
and the driver's seat position sensor.
INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 6.
for 3 minutes.
position sensor (A).
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Driver's Seat Position Sensor
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8. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the driver's seat wire harness 2P
connector with a jumper wire.
connector B (28P). There should be 0-1.0 ohms.

Unit Connector B

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YES - Faulty driver's seat position sensor or SRS unit; replace the driver's
seat position sensor (see DRIVER'S SEAT POSITION SENSOR
NO - Open in the floor wire harness or seat position sensor harness;
DTC 71-2X (71-20 TO 71-29, 71-2A TO 71-2F): SHORT IN DRIVER'S SEAT POSITION SENSOR
HDS ).
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the SRS indicator comes on for
about 6 seconds and then goes off.
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
position sensor (A).
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Driver's Seat Position Sensor
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INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Faulty driver's seat position sensor; replace the driver's seat position
sensor.
for 3 minutes.
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Unit Connector B

NO - Short in the floor wire harness or seat position sensor harness;
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Connector B And Body Ground
NO - Short in the floor wire harness or seat position sensor harness;
DTC 71-22: SHORT TO POWER IN DRIVER'S SEAT POSITION SENSOR
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HDS ).
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the SRS indicator comes on for
about 6 seconds and then goes off.
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 71-22 indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the driver's seat position
sensor (A).
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Seat Position Sensor
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6. Disconnect SRS unit connector B from the SRS unit (see step 16 in
7. Check the voltage between the No. 16 terminal of SRS unit connector B (28P)


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NO - Short to power in the floor wire harness or seat position sensor
DTC 81-61: NO SIGNAL FROM FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT (WITH SIDE
AIRBAG) ('04-05 MODELS)
DTC 81-62: NON-STIPULATED RESPONSE DATA (WITH SIDE AIRBAG) ('04-05 MODELS)
HDS ).
INFORMATION ).
Is DTC 81-61 or 81-62 indicated?

YES - Go to step 5.
3. Check the connection between the floor wire harness 6P connector and the
front passenger's weight sensor unit.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Repair the poor connection and retest. If DTC 81-61 or 81-62 or still
5. Check the No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?

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YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the fuse, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). If the fuse
blows again, check for a short in the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse circuit
(dashboard wire harness or floor wire harness).
6. Disconnect the floor wire harness 6P connector C from the front passenger's
weight sensor unit.
Fig. 224: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 6P Connector C From Front

Passenger's Weight Sensor Unit
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8. Check for voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the front passenger's weight
sensor unit 6P connector C and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
Fig. 225: Checking Voltage Between No. 3 Terminal Of Front Passenger's

Weight Sensor Unit 6P Connector C And Body Ground
Is there battery voltage?

NO - Go to step 9.
10. Disconnect dashboard wire harness 24P connector C501A from the floor wire
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harness (C501B).
Fig. 226: Disconnecting Dashboard Wire Harness 24P Connector C501A

From Floor Wire Harness

12. Check for voltage between the No. 9 terminal of dashboard wire harness 24P
connector and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
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Fig. 227: Checking Voltage Between No. 9 Terminal Of Dashboard Wire

YES - Open in the WHT wire of the floor wire harness; replace the floor
wire harness.
NO - Open in the WHT wire of the dashboard wire harness; replace
dashboard wire harness.
14. Check resistance between the No. 6 terminal of the front passenger's weight
sensor unit 6P connector C and body ground. There should be 0---1.0 ohms.
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Fig. 228: Checking Resistance Between No. 6 Terminal Of Front

Passenger's Weight Sensor Unit 6P Connector C And Body Ground

NO - Open in the BLK wire of the floor wire harness; check for poor
ground connection at G602 (see FLOOR WIRE HARNESS (LEFT
BRANCH) (4-DOOR) ). If the connection is OK, replace the floor wire
harness.
for 3 minutes.
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DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ). Disconnect OPDS unit 8P
connector D from the OPDS unit.

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NO - Go to step 22.
and the No. 5 terminal of the front passenger's weight sensor unit 6P connector
C. There should be 0-1.0 ohms.

Connector B (28P) And No. 5 Terminal Of Front Passenger's Weight
Sensor Unit 6P Connector C
YES - Faulty front passenger's weight sensor unit or SRS unit; replace the
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front passenger's weight sensor unit (see FRONT PASSENGER'S

WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT REPLACEMENT ). If the problem is still
present, replace the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Go to step 20.
harness (C501B).

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and the No. 17 terminal of floor wire harness 24P connector. There should be
0-1.0 ohms.

Connector B (28P) And No. 17 Terminal Of Floor Wire Harness 24P
Connector

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YES - Open in the GRN/ORN wire of the dashboard wire harness; replace
22. Disconnect dashboard wire harness 24P connector C501A from floor wire
harness (C501B).

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Fig. 234: Checking Resistance Between 27 Terminal Of SRS Unit

YES - Short to ground in the dashboard wire harness; replace the

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harness.
DTC 81-61: NO SIGNAL FROM FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT (WITHOUT SIDE
AIRBAG) ('04-05 MODELS)
DTC 81-62: NON-STIPULATED RESPONSE DATA (WITHOUT SIDE AIRBAG) ('04-05 MODELS)
HDS ).
INFORMATION ).

YES - Go to step 3.
3. Check the connection between the floor wire 6P connector and the front
passenger's weight sensor unit.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Repair the poor connection and retest. If DTC 81-61 or 81-62 is still
5. Check the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?

YES - Go to step 6.
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(dashboard wire harness or floor wire harness).

6. Disconnect the floor wire harness 6P connector C from the front passenger's
weight sensor unit.
Fig. 235: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 6P Connector C From Front

Passenger's Weight Sensor Unit

8. Check for voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the front passenger's weight
sensor unit 6P connector C and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
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Fig. 236: Checking Voltage Between No. 3 Terminal Of Front Passenger'S

Weight Sensor Unit 6P Connector C And Body Ground

NO - Go to step 9.
harness (C501B).
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YES - Open in the WHT wire of the floor wire harness; replace the floor
wire harness.
NO - Open in the WHT wire of the dashboard wire harness; replace
14. Check resistance between the No. 6 terminal of the front passenger's weight
sensor unit 6P connector C and body ground. There should be 0-1.0 ohms.
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Fig. 239: Checking Resistance Between No. 6 Terminal Of Front

Passenger's Weight Sensor Unit 6P Connector C And Body Ground

NO - Open in the BLK wire of the floor wire harness or left floor wire
harness; check for poor ground connection at G601 (see FLOOR WIRE
HARNESS (LEFT BRANCH) (4-DOOR) ). If the connection is OK,
replace the floor wire harness.
for 3 minutes.
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harness.
and the No. 5 terminal of the front passenger's weight sensor unit 6P connector
C. There should be 0-1.0 ohms.

Connector B And No. 5 Terminal Of Front Passenger's Weight Sensor
Unit 6P Connector C

YES - Faulty front passenger's weight sensor unit or SRS unit; replace the
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front passenger's weight sensor unit (see FRONT PASSENGER'S

WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT REPLACEMENT ). If the problem is still
NO - Open in the GRN/ORN wire of the floor wire harness; replace the
floor wire harness.
DTC 81-4X (81-40 TO 81-49, 81-4A TO 81-4F), 81-5X (81-50 TO 81-59, 81-5A TO 81-5F), 81-63, 81-64:
INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT ('04-05 MODELS)
HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 81-4x, 81-5x, 81-63, or 81-64
indicated?
YES - Replace the front passenger's weight sensor unit (see FRONT
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT REPLACEMENT ). If the
DTC returns, replace the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
DTC 81-79: FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSORS DRIFT CHECK FAILURE ('04-05
MODELS)
HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
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4. Make sure nothing is on the front passenger's seat.
Does the SRS indicator go off?

YES - The system is OK.
NO - Remove the seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) and front passenger's weight sensors,
then reinstall them. Calibrate the front passenger's weight sensor unit (see
CALIBRATING THE FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR
UNIT ('04-05 MODELS) OR CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07
MODEL) ). Retry the troubleshooting. If DTC 81-79 is indicated
repeatedly, replace the front passenger's weight sensors.
DTC 81-71, 81-78: FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT DOES NOT CALIBRATE ('04-
05 MODELS)
HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC 81-71, or 81-78 indicated?
YES - Calibrate the front passenger's weight sensor unit. If the DTC
returns, replace the front passenger's weight sensor unit (see FRONT
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
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DTC 81-71, 81-78: ODS UNIT DOES NOT CALIBRATE ('06-07 MODEL)
HDS ).
YES - Calibrate the ODS unit. If the DTC returns, replace the ODS unit
(see OPDS/ODS Unit Replacement ).
DTC 82-1X (82-10 TO 82-19, 82-1A TO 82-1F): NO SIGNAL FROM THE INNER SIDE FRONT
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR ('04-07 MODELS)
HDS ).
YES - Replace the inner side front passenger's weight sensor (see FRONT
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR REPLACEMENT ).
DTC 83-2X (83-20 TO 83-29, 83-2A TO 83-2F): NO SIGNAL FROM THE OUTER SIDE FRONT
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR ('04-07 MODELS)
HDS ).
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YES - Replace the outer side front passenger's weight sensor (see FRONT
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR REPLACEMENT ).
DTC 85-4X (85-40 TO 85-49, 85-4A TO 85-4F), 85-5X (85-50 TO 85-59, 85-5A TO 85-5F), 85-63, 85-64:
INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE OPDS/ODS UNIT
HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on, and is DTC85-4x, 85-5x, 85-63, or 85-64
indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Initialize the OPDS/ODS unit (see INITIALIZING THE OPDS/ODS
UNIT ).

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NO - Replace the OPDS/ODS unit (see OPDS/ODS UNIT

REPLACEMENT ), and retest. If the problem is still present, replace the
OPDS sensor/seat-back (see FRONT SEAT COVER
REPLACEMENT ).
DTC 85-79: OPDS SENSOR DRIFT CHECK FAILURE
HDS ).
YES - Turn the ignition switch OFF, and go to step 3.


NO - Go to step 5.
UNIT ).

NO - Replace the OPDS/ODS unit (see OPDS/ODS Unit Replacement ),
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and retest. If the problem is still present, replace the OPDS sensor/seat-
back (see FRONT SEAT COVER REPLACEMENT ).
DTC 85-61: NO SIGNAL FROM THE OPDS UNIT ('04-05 MODELS)
DTC 85-62: NON-STIPULATED RESPONSE DATA ('04-05 MODELS)
NOTE: An incorrect OPDS unit can cause DTC 85-63.

A new (uninitialized) OPDS unit installed with a faulty
sensor can also cause DTC 85-71.

HDS ).
INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check the connection between the OPDS unit harness 8P connector D and the
OPDS unit.

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair the poor connection and retest. If DTC 85-61 or 85-62 is still
6. Check the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
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YES - Go to step 7.
(dashboard wire harness, floor wire harness, or OPDS unit harness).
7. Disconnect the OPDS unit 8P connector D from the OPDS unit.
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Fig. 242: Disconnecting OPDS Unit 8P Connector D From OPDS Unit


9. Check for voltage between the No. 4 terminal of the OPDS unit 8P connector
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D and body ground. There should battery voltage.
Fig. 243: Checking Voltage Between No. 4 Terminal Of OPDS Unit 8P

Connector D And Body Ground
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NO - Go to step 10.
harness (C501B).

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YES - Open in the WHT wire of the floor wire harness or OPDS unit
NO - Open in the WHT wire of the dashboard wire harness; replace the
15. Check resistance between the No. 8 terminal of the OPDS unit 8P connector D
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and body ground. There should be 0-1.0 ohms.
Fig. 246: Checking Resistance Between No. 8 Terminal Of OPDS Unit 8P

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NO - Open in the OPDS unit harness or floor wire harness; check the
connection at G602 (see FLOOR WIRE HARNESS (LEFT BRANCH)
(4-DOOR) ). If the connection is OK, replace the faulty harness.
for 3 minutes.
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NO - Go to step 23.
and the No. 7 terminal of the OPDS unit 8P connector D. There should be 0-
1.0 ohms.
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Connector B And No. 7 Terminal Of OPDS Unit 8P Connector D
YES - Faulty OPDS unit or SRS unit; replace the OPDS unit (see
OPDS/ODS Unit Replacement ). If the problem is still present, replace
the OPDS sensor/seat-back (see FRONT SEAT COVER
REPLACEMENT ). If problem is still present, replace the SRS unit (see
NO - Go to step 21.
21. Disconnect the floor wire harness 4P connector C801 from the OPDS unit
harness.
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Fig. 249: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness 4P Connector C801 From

OPDS Unit Harness
and the No. 4 terminal of floor wire harness 4P connector C801. There should
be 0-1.0 ohms.
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C801
YES - Open in the OPDS unit harness; replace the OPDS unit harness.
NO - Open in the GRN/ORN wire of the dashboard wire harness or floor
wire harness; replace the faulty harness.
23. Disconnect floor wire harness 4P connector C801 from the OPDS unit harness.
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OPDS Unit Harness
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YES - Short to ground in the OPDS unit harness; replace the OPDS unit
harness.
NO - Short to ground in the dashboard wire harness or floor wire harness;
DTC 81-61, 85-61: NO SIGNAL FROM THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL); DTC 81-62, 85-62: NON-
STIPULATED RESPONSE DATA ('06-07 MODEL)
NOTE: An incorrect ODS unit can cause DTC 85-63.

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A new (uninitialized) ODS unit installed with a faulty

sensor can also cause DTC 85-71.

HDS ).
INFORMATION ).
Is DTC 81-61, 85-61, 81-62, or 85-62 indicated?
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check the connection between the ODS unit harness 18P connector D and the
ODS unit.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair the poor connection and retest. If DTC 81-61, 85-61, 81-61,
or 85-62 is still present, go to step 5.
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 7.
(dashboard wire harness, floor wire harness, or ODS unit harness).
7. Disconnect the ODS unit 18P connector D from the ODS unit.
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Fig. 253: Disconnecting ODS Unit 18P Connector D From ODS Unit

9. Check for voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the ODS unit 18P connector D
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and body ground. There should battery voltage.
Fig. 254: Checking Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of ODS Unit 18P
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NO - Go to step 10.
11. Disconnect dashboard wire harness 24P connector C501 from the floor wire
harness (A).
Fig. 255: Disconnecting Dashboard Wire Harness 24P Connector C501

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YES - Open in the WHT wire of the floor wire harness or ODS unit
NO - Open in the WHT wire of the dashboard wire harness; replace the
15. Check resistance between the No. 12 terminal of the ODS unit 18P connector
D and body ground. There should be 0-1.0 ohms.
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Fig. 257: Checking Resistance Between No. 12 Terminal Of ODS Unit 18P

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NO - Open in the ODS unit harness or floor wire harness; check the
connection at G602 (see FLOOR WIRE HARNESS (LEFT BRANCH)
(4-DOOR) ). If the connection is OK, replace the faulty harness.
for 3 minutes.
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NO - Go to step 23.
and the No. 7 terminal of the ODS unit 18P connector D. There should be 0-1.0
ohms.

Connector B (28P) And No. 7 Terminal Of ODS Unit 18P Connector D
YES - Faulty ODS unit or SRS unit; replace the ODS unit (see
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OPDS/ODS Unit Replacement ). If the problem is still present, replace

the OPDS sensor/seat-back (see FRONT SEAT COVER
REPLACEMENT ). If problem is still present, replace the SRS unit (see
NO - Go to step 21.
21. Disconnect the floor wire harness 4P connector C801 from the ODS unit
harness.
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ODS Unit Harness
and the No. 4 terminal of floor wire harness 4P connector C801. There should
be 0-1.0 ohms.
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Connector B (28P) And 4 Terminal Of Floor Wire Harness 4P Connector
C801

YES - Open in the ODS unit harness; replace the ODS unit harness.
NO - Open in the GRN/ORN wire of the floor wire harness; replace the
faulty harness.
23. Disconnect floor wire harness 4P connector C801 from the ODS unit harness.
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ODS Unit Harness
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YES - Short to ground in the ODS unit harness; replace the ODS unit
harness.
NO - Short to ground in the floor wire harness; replace the faulty harness.
DTC 85-71, 85-78: OPDS/ODS UNIT NOT INITIALIZED
HDS ).
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YES - Initialized OPDS/ODS unit (see INITIALIZING THE

OPDS/ODS UNIT ).
DTC 86-1X (86-10 TO 86-19, 86-1A TO 86-1F): FAULTY OPDS SEAT-BACK SENSOR
DTC 86-2X (86-20 TO 86-29, 86-2A TO 86-2F): FAULTY OPDS SEAT SUPPORT SENSOR
HDS ).
Does the SRS indicator stay on?
YES - Go to step 3.
NOTE: Aftermarket devices (fluorescent lights, laptop

computers, etc.) used near the front passenger's seat-
back can interfere with the seat-back sensors and
cause a false DTC 86-1x or 86-2x. If one of these
devices was used, erase the DTC, operate the device
near the seat-back, and recheck for DTCs. If DTC 86-1x
or 86-2x is reset, erase it, and do not use the device
near the seat-back.
3. Check the connection at the OPDS sensor harness connector and the
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OPDS/ODS unit connector.

YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Reconnect the OPDS sensor harness connector, and clear the DTC.
4. Replace the OPDS sensor/seat-back foam (see FRONT SEAT RECLINE
MOTOR REPLACEMENT ), and initialize the OPDS/ODS unit (see
INITIALIZING THE OPDS/ODS UNIT ).
5. Erase the DTC memory, then check for DTC 86-1x or 86-2x.
YES - Replace the OPDS/ODS unit (see OPDS/ODS UNIT

REPLACEMENT ).
NO - The system is OK.
DTC 87-31: INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE OPDS/ODS UNIT
NOTE: Make sure the battery is sufficiently charged and in good

condition.
HDS ).

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX. for troubleshooting details.
DTC 87-32: SIDE AIRBAG CUTOFF INDICATOR STAYS ON ('04-05 MODELS)
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HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
Troubleshooting Intermittent Failure (see TROUBLESHOOTING
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Make sure nothing is on the front passenger's
seat.
4. Disconnect the OPDS unit 8P connector D from the OPDS unit.
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Fig. 264: Disconnecting OPDS Unit 8P Connector D From OPDS Unit

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6. Check for voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the OPDS unit harness 8P
connector D and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
Fig. 265: Checking Voltage Between No. 3 Terminal Of OPDS Unit

Harness 8P Connector D And Body Ground

YES - Faulty OPDS unit; replace the OPDS unit (see OPDS/ODS Unit
Replacement ).
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NO - Go to step 7.
8. Remove the gauge control module (see GAUGE CONTROL MODULE
REPLACEMENT ). Disconnect gauge control module connector (30P) (A)
from the gauge control module.
Fig. 266: Disconnecting Gauge Control Module Connector (30P) From

Gauge Control Module
9. Check resistance between the No. 3 terminal of the OPDS unit 8P connector D
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Fig. 267: Checking Resistance Between No. 3 Terminal Of OPDS Unit 8P

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YES - Replace the gauge control module.
NO - Short to ground in the OPDS unit harness floor wire harness or
DTC 87-32: SIDE AIRBAG CUTOFF INDICATOR STAYS ON ('06-07 MODEL)
HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
Troubleshooting Intermittent Failure (see TROUBLESHOOTING
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Make sure nothing is on the front passenger's
seat.
4. Disconnect the ODS unit 18P connector D from the ODS unit.
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Fig. 268: Disconnecting ODS Unit 18P Connector D From ODS Unit
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6. Check for voltage between the No. 18 terminal of the ODS unit harness 18P
connector D and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
Fig. 269: Checking Voltage Between No. 18 Terminal Of ODS Unit

Harness 18P Connector D And Body Ground
YES - Faulty ODS unit; replace the ODS unit (see OPDS/ODS Unit
Replacement ).
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NO - Go to step 7.

9. Check resistance between the No. 18 terminal of the ODS unit 18P connector
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D and body ground. There should be an open circuit or at least 1 Mohms.
Fig. 271: Checking Resistance Between No. 18 Terminal Of ODS Unit 18P
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YES - Replace the gauge control module.
NO - Short to ground in the ODS unit harness floor wire harness or
DTC 91-1X (91-10 TO 91-19, 91-1A TO 91-1F): INTERNAL FAILURE OF THE SRS UNIT

dead battery may trigger a DTC.
HDS ).
YES - Replace the SRS Unit (see SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).

DTC 91-2X (91-20 TO 91-29, 91-2A TO 91-2F): SHORT IN SRS INDICATOR
HDS ).
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YES - Go to step 3.
for 3 minutes.
REPLACEMENT ). Disconnect the gauge control module connector 30P
('03-05 models) or 36P ('06-07 model) (A) from the gauge control module.
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Fig. 272: Disconnecting Gauge Control Module Connector 30P ('03-05

Models) Or 36P ('06-07 Model) From Gauge Control Module
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YES - Go to step 7.
wire harness.
7. Reconnect the gauge control module connector (A).
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Fig. 274: Reconnecting Gauge Control Module Connector


9. Install a jumper wire between the No. 5 terminal and the No. 14 ('03-05
models), or the No. 18 ('06-07 model) terminal of the gauge control module
connector 30P ('03-05 models), 36P ('06-07 model). The SRS indicator should
go off.
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Fig. 275: Installing Jumper Wire Between No. 5 And 14 Terminals ('03-05
Models)
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Fig. 276: Installing Jumper Wire Between No. 5 And 18 Terminals ('06-07
Model)
the SRS unit; check the connection. If the connection is OK, replace the
NO - Faulty SRS indicator circuit in the gauge control module or poor
contact at gauge control module connector 30P ('03-05 models), 36P ('06-
07 model); check the connection. If the connection is OK, replace the
gauge control module.
DTC 92-1X (92-10 TO 92-19, 92-1A TO 92-1F): PASSENGER'S AIRBAG CUTOFF INDICATOR
MALFUNCTION ('04-06 MODELS)
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HDS ).
YES - Internal failure of SRS unit. Replace the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT
REPLACEMENT ).
DTC 92-2X (92-20 TO 92-29, 92-2A TO 92-2F): OPEN OR SHORT TO GROUND IN PASSENGER'S
AIRBAG CUTOFF INDICATOR ('04-07 MODELS)
NOTE: This DTC can be set if the key is turned on when the
passenger's airbag cutoff indicator is unplugged.
HDS ).
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Check the connection between the dashboard wire harness 6P connector and
the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator.
5. Check for a DTC.
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YES - Go to step 6.
go to step 6.
6. Check the No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 7.
(dashboard wire harness A).
7. Disconnect the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator 6P connector.
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Fig. 277: Disconnecting Passenger's Airbag Cutoff Indicator 6P Connector

9. Check for voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the passenger's airbag cutoff
indicator 6P connector and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
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Fig. 278: Checking Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of Passenger's

Airbag Cutoff Indicator 6P Connector And Body Ground

NO - Open in the dashboard wire harness; replace the dashboard wire
harness.
for 3 minutes.
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12. Check resistance between the No. 2 terminal of the passenger's airbag cutoff
indicator 6P connector and the No. 20 terminal of dashboard wire harness 28P
connector C801. There should be 0-1.0 ohms.

Airbag Cutoff Indicator 6P Connector And No. 20 Terminal Of
Dashboard Wire Harness 28P Connector C801
harness.
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YES - Check for faulty SRS unit or passenger's airbag cutoff indicator;
replace the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator. If the problem is still
NO - Short to ground in dashboard wire harness; replace dashboard wire
harness.
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DTC A1-1X (A1-10 TO A1-19, A1-1A TO A1-1F): FAULTY POWER SUPPLY (VA LINE)
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
(dashboard wire harness, floor wire harness, or OPDS/ODS unit harness).
5. Connect a voltmeter between the No. 17 terminal of SRS unit connector A
(28P) and body ground. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage.
There should be battery voltage.
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Fig. 281: Measuring Voltage Between No. 17 Terminal Of SRS Unit

NO - Go to step 6.
7. Disconnect under-dash fuse/relay box connector S (2P).
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Fig. 282: Disconnecting Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Connector S (2P)

8. Check resistance between the No. 1 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box

connector S (2P) and the No. 17 terminal of SRS unit connector A (28P). There
should be 0-1.0 ohms.
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Fig. 283: Checking Resistance Between No. 1 Terminal Of Under-Dash

Fuse/Relay Box Connector S (2P) And No. 17 Terminal Of SRS Unit
Connector A
YES - Open in the under-dash fuse/relay box or poor contact between

connector S (2P) and the under-dash fuse/relay box; check the connection.
If the connection is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box (see
UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6) ).
harness.
DTC A2-1X (A2-10 TO A2-19, A2-1A TO A2-1F): FAULTY POWER SUPPLY (VB LINE)
1. Check the No. 22 (10 A) fuse.
Is the fuse OK?
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YES - Go to step 2.
blows again, check for a short to ground in the dashboard wire harness or
in the under-dash fuse/relay box No. 22 (10 A) fuse line; replace the
dashboard wire harness. If the problem is still there, replace the under-
dash fuse/relay box.
for 3 minutes.
5. Connect a voltmeter between the No. 18 terminal of SRS unit connector A
(28P) and body ground. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage.
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Fig. 284: Measuring Voltage Between No. 18 Terminal Of SRS Unit

NO - Go to step 6.
7. Disconnect under-dash fuse/relay box connector S (2P).
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Fig. 285: Disconnecting Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Connector S (2P)

8. Check resistance between the No. 2 terminal of the under-dash fuse/relay box
connector S (2P) and the No. 18 terminal of SRS unit connector A (28P). There
should be 0-1.0 ohms.
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Fig. 286: Checking Resistance Between No. 2 Terminal Of Under-Dash

Fuse/Relay Box Connector S (2P) And No. 18 Terminal Of SRS Unit
Connector A

YES - Open in the under-dash fuse/relay box or poor contact between
connector S (2P) and the under-dash fuse/relay box; check the connection.
If the connection is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box (see
UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6) ).
harness.
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING
SRS INDICATOR DOES NOT COME ON ('03-05 MODELS)
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and see if the other indicators come on (brake
system, etc).
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Do the other indicators come on?

YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Go to step 8.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then remove the gauge control module (see
GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
Disconnect the gauge control module connector (30P) (A) from the gauge
control module.

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3. Check resistance between the No. 21 terminal of gauge control module

connector (30P) and body ground. There should be 0-1.0 ohms.
Fig. 288: Checking Resistance Between No. 21 Terminal Of Gauge Control

Module Connector (30P) And Body Ground

YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Open in the BLK wire of the dashboard wire harness, junction
connector or faulty body ground terminal (G503) (see ). If the body
ground terminal is OK, replace the dashboard wire harness.
4. Check for voltage between the No. 14 terminal of the gauge control module
connector (30P) and body ground within the first 6 seconds after turning the
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ignition switch ON (II). There should be about 1.0 V for 6 seconds and then
about 11V.
Fig. 289: Checking Voltage Between No. 14 Terminal Of Gauge Control

YES - Faulty SRS indicator circuit in the gauge control module; replace
the gauge control module.
NO - Go to step 5.
for 3 minutes.
8. Connect a voltmeter between the No. 14 terminal of gauge control module
connector (30P) and body ground. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and
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measure voltage. There should be 0.5 V or less.
Fig. 290: Measuring Voltage Between No. 14 Terminal Of Gauge Control

YES - Faulty SRS unit; replace the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Short to power in the PNK wire of the dashboard wire harness or
junction connector; replace the dashboard wire harness.
9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Check the No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse blown?
NO - Go to step 10.
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10. Connect a voltmeter between the No. 5 terminal of the gauge control module
measure the voltage. There should be battery voltage.


YES - Faulty SRS indicator circuit in the gauge control module or poor
contact at the gauge control module connector (30P) and the gauge control
module; if the connection is OK, replace the gauge control module.
NO - Open in the under-dash fuse/relay box No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse circuit, or
open in the YEL wire of the dashboard wire harness A or junction
connector. If the under-dash fuse/relay box is OK, replace the dashboard
wire harness.
11. Replace the No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse, then check to see if the indicators comes on.
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Do the indicators come on?

YES - The system is OK at this time.
NO - Repair the short to ground in the under-dash fuse/relay box No. 21
(7.5 A) fuse circuit.
SRS INDICATOR DOES NOT COME ON ('06-07 MODEL)
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and see if the other indicators come on (brake
system, etc).
Do the other indicators come on?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Go to step 9.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then remove the gauge control module (see
GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
Disconnect the gauge control module connector (36P) (A) from the gauge
control module.
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connector (36P) and body ground. There should be 0-1.0 ohms.
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YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Open in the BLK wire of the dashboard wire harness, junction
connector or faulty body ground terminal (G503) (see ). If the body
ground terminal is OK, replace the dashboard wire harness.
4. Check for voltage between the No. 18 terminal of the gauge control module
connector (36P) and body ground within the first 6 seconds after turning the
ignition switch ON (II). There should be about 1.0 V for 6 seconds and then
about 11 V.
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Fig. 294: Checking Voltage Between No. 18 Terminal Of Gauge Control

YES - Faulty SRS indicator circuit in the gauge control module; replace
NO - Go to step 5.
for 3 minutes.
8. Connect a voltmeter between the No. 18 terminal of gauge control module
measure voltage. There should be 0.5 V or less.
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YES - Faulty SRS unit; replace the SRS unit (see SRS UNIT
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Short to power in the PNK wire of the dashboard wire harness or
junction connector; replace the dashboard wire harness.
9. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Check the No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse blown?

NO - Go to step 10.
10. Connect a voltmeter between the No. 5 terminal of the gauge control module
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measure the voltage. There should be battery voltage.

YES - Faulty SRS indicator circuit in the gauge control module or poor
contact at the gauge control module connector (36P) and the gauge control
module; if the connection is OK, replace the gauge control module.
NO - Open in the under-dash fuse/relay box No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse circuit, or
open in the YEL wire of the dashboard wire harness A or junction
connector. If the under-dash fuse/relay box is OK, replace the dashboard
wire harness.
11. Replace the No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse, then check to see if the indicators comes on.
Do the indicators come on?
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NO - Repair the short to ground in the under-dash fuse/relay box No. 21
(7.5 A) fuse circuit.
SRS INDICATOR STAYS ON, BUT NO DTCS ARE STORED ('03-05 MODELS)
NOTE: If you cannot retrieve DTCs with the HDS using the SRS
menu method, retrieve flash codes with the HDS in SCS
mode.
A new SRS unit must sense the entire system is OK
before completing its initial self-test. The most common
cause of an incomplete self-test is the failure to replace
all deployed parts after a collision, in particular seat
belt tensioners (see COMPONENT
REPLACEMENT/INSPECTION AFTER DEPLOYMENT ).
A battery/system voltage above 15.2 V can cause the
SRS indicator to come on without storing any DTCs.

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connector (30P) and the No. 19 terminal of SRS unit connector A (28P). There
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Module Connector (30P) And No. 19 Terminal Of SRS Unit Connector A
(28P)

YES - Go to step 5.
harness.
6. Reconnect gauge control module connector (30P) to the gauge control module.
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8. Install a jumper wire between the No. 5 terminal and the No. 14 terminal of the
gauge control module connector (30P). The SRS indicator should go off.
Fig. 299: Installing Jumper Wire Between No. 5 And 14 Terminals Of

Gauge Control Module Connector (30P)

contact at gauge control module connector (30P); check the connection. If
the connection is OK, replace the gauge control module.
SRS INDICATOR STAYS ON, BUT NO DTCS ARE STORED ('06-07 MODEL)
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NOTE: If you cannot retrieve DTCs with the HDS using the SRS
menu method, retrieve flash codes with the HDS in SCS
mode.
A new SRS unit must sense the entire system is OK
before completing its initial self-test. The most common
cause of an incomplete self-test is the failure to replace
all deployed parts after a collision, in particular seat
belt tensioners (see COMPONENT
A battery/system voltage above 15.2 V can cause the
SRS indicator to come on without storing any DTCs.

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connector (36P) and the No. 19 terminal of SRS unit connector A (28P). There
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Module Connector (36P) And No. 19 Terminal Of SRS Unit Connector A
(28P)
YES - Go to step 5.
harness.
6. Reconnect gauge control module connector (36P) to the gauge control module.
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8. Install a jumper wire between the No. 5 terminal and the No. 18 terminal of the
gauge control module connector (36P). The SRS indicator should go off.
Fig. 302: Installing Jumper Wire Between No. 5 And 18 Terminals Of

Gauge Control Module Connector (36P)
contact at gauge control module connector (36P); check the connection. If
the connection is OK, replace the gauge control module.
COMPONENT REPLACEMENT/INSPECTION AFTER DEPLOYMENT
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NOTE: Before doing any SRS repairs, use the HDS SRS menu
method to check for DTCs; read the DTC for the less
obvious deployed parts (seat belt tensioners, front
impact sensors, side airbag sensors, etc.)
Do not mix TRW and Denso impact sensors. Impact
sensors and the SRS unit must be of the same
manufacturer.
After a collision where the seat belt tensioners deployed, replace these items:
SRS unit
Seat belt tensioners
Front impact sensors
After a collision where the front airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
SRS unit
Deployed airbag(s)
Seat belt tensioners
Front impact sensors
After a collision where the side airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
SRS unit
Deployed side airbag(s)
Seat belt tensioner(s) for the side(s) that deployed.
Side impact sensor(s) (first) for the side(s) that deployed
Side impact sensor(s) (second) for the side(s) that deployed (4-door)
After a collision where the side curtain airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
SRS unit
Deployed side curtain airbag(s)
Seat belt tensioner(s) for the side(s) that deployed
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Side impact sensor(s) (first) for the side(s) that deployed

Side impact sensor(s) (second) for the side(s) that deployed (4-door)
Roof trim
A-pillar trim
B-pillar trim
C-pillar trim
Front grab handle
Sunvisor
All related trim clips
After a moderate to severe side or rear collision, inspect for damage on the side
curtain airbag or other related components. According to the degree of damage,
replace components as needed.
After a collision, where a side curtain airbag has deployed, replace all trim clips on
that side, even if they appear to be undamaged. Replace the clips on these parts:
A-pillar trim
B-pillar trim
C-pillar trim
Front grab handle
Sunvisor
A-PILLAR
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Fig. 303: Identifying A-Pillar

B-PILLAR (4-DOOR)
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Fig. 304: Identifying B-Pillar (4-Door)

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C-PILLAR (4-DOOR)
Fig. 305: Identifying C-Pillar (4-Door)

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B-PILLAR (2-DOOR)
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Fig. 306: Identifying B-Pillar (2-Door)

C-PILLAR (2-DOOR)
Fig. 307: Identifying C-Pillar (2-Door)

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During the repair process, inspect these areas:
Inspect all the SRS wire harnesses. Replace, don't repair, any damaged
harnesses.
Inspect the cable reel for heat damage. If there is any damage, replace the cable
reel.
After the vehicle is completely repaired, turn the ignition switch ON (II). If the SRS
indicator comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off, the SRS is OK. If the
indicator does not function properly, use the HDS SRS Menu Method to read the
DTC. If you cannot retrieve a code, go to SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING .
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE HEADLINER/PILLAR TRIM OVERLAP
To prevent the side curtain airbag from accidentally deploying and damaged the
pillar trim, the overlap between the headliner and pillar trim must be less then 15
mm. To check the overlap, do this:
1. Install the headliner (A) and the pillar trim (B).
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Fig. 308: Installing Headliner And Pillar Trim

2. Using masking tape on the headliner, mark the upper edge of each pillar trim.
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Fig. 309: Marking Upper Edge Of Pillar Trim Using Masking Tape On
Headliner
3. Remove the pillar trims, and measure the headliner overlap.

'04-07 2-Door Models: If the overlap is less than 12 mm, remove the tape,
and install the pillar trims.
'04-07 2-Door Models: If the overlap is more than 12 mm, go to step 4.
If the overlap is less than 15 mm, remove the tape, and install the pillar
trims.
If the overlap is more than 15 mm, go to step 4.
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Fig. 310: Measuring Headliner Overlap

4. Carefully trim the headliner with a utility knife, reducing the overlap to less
than 12 mm ('04-07 Models, 2-door) or 15 mm.
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Fig. 311: Trimming Headliner With Utility Knife

5. Remove the tape, and install the pillar trim.

DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before
beginning work.
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3. Remove the two Torx bolts (A) using a Torx T30 bit.
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Fig. 313: Removing Torx Bolts

4. Disconnect the horn switch connector (1P), then remove the driver's airbag (B).
INSTALLATION
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1. Connect the horn switch connector (1P) (A) to the driver's airbag.
Fig. 314: Connecting Horn Switch Connector (1P) To Driver's Airbag

2. Place the new driver's airbag (B) in the steering wheel, and secure it with new
Torx bolts (C).
3. Connect the cable reel to the driver's airbag 4P connector (A), then install the
access panel (B) on the steering wheel.
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Fig. 315: Connecting Cable Reel To Driver's Airbag 4P Connector

4. Connect the battery negative cable.

5. After installing the airbag, confirm proper system operation:
Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for
about 6 seconds and then go off.
Make sure the horn button works.
FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL
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beginning work.
2. Remove the glove box (see GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
3. Disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from dashboard wire
harness.
Fig. 316: Disconnecting Front Passenger's Airbag 4P Connector (A) From

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4. Disconnect the passenger's A-pillar trim.

Without side curtain airbag (see A-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE
CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) ).
With side curtain airbag (see A-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) ).
5. Remove the three mounting nuts (A) from the bracket. Cover the lid and
dashboard with a cloth, and pry carefully with a flat-tip screwdriver to lift the
front passenger's airbag (B) out of the dashboard.
NOTE: The airbag lid has pawls on each side which attach it to
the dashboard.
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Fig. 317: Removing Mounting Nuts From Bracket

INSTALLATION
1. Place the new front passenger's airbag (A) into the dashboard. Tighten the front
passenger's airbag mounting nuts (B).
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Fig. 318: Tightening Front Passenger's Airbag Mounting Nuts

2. Connect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) to dashboard wire

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harness, then reinstall the glove box and passenger's front pillar trim.
Fig. 319: Connecting Front Passenger's Airbag 4P Connector To

4. After installing the airbag, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition
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switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then
go off.
SIDE AIRBAG REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure before performing

repairs or service.
REMOVAL
beginning work.
2. Disconnect the side airbag harness 2P connectors (A).
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Fig. 320: Disconnecting Side Airbag Harness 2P Connectors

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3. Remove the seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) and seat-back cover (see FRONT SEAT
COVER REPLACEMENT ).
4. Remove the mounting nut (A) and the side airbag (B).
Fig. 321: Removing Mounting Nut And Side Airbag

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INSTALLATION
NOTE: If the side airbag lid is secured by a tape, remove the

tape.
Do not open the lid of the side airbag cover.
Use new mounting nuts tightened to the specified
torque.
Make sure that the seat-back cover is installed properly.
Improper installation may prevent proper deployment.
Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not
pinched or interfering with other parts.
1. Place the new side airbag on the seat-back frame (A). Tighten the side airbag
mounting nuts (B).
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Fig. 322: Tightening Side Airbag Mounting Nuts

2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal (see FRONT SEAT
3. Install the seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ), then connect the side airbag harness 2P
connector.
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4. Move the front seat and the seat-back through their full ranges of movement,
making sure the harness wires are not pinched or interfering with other parts.
6. Connect the HDS and clear the DTCs (see ERASING THE DTC MEMORY
WITH HDS ).
7. After installing the side airbag, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds
and then go off.
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
NOTE: Review the interior trim replacement procedure before

performing repair or service.
Removal of the side curtain airbag must be performed
according to the precautions/procedures described at
the beginning of the SRS.
The side curtain airbag system consists of the side
curtain airbag module, including the roof trim and front
grab handle. When the side curtain airbag has been
deployed, these parts should be replaced.
beginning work.
3. Remove the antenna coil (see WINDOW ANTENNA COIL
REPLACEMENT ).
4. Disconnect the side curtain airbag subharness from the side curtain airbag 2P
connector (A).
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Fig. 323: Disconnecting Side Curtain Airbag Subharness From Side

Curtain Airbag 2P Connector
5. Remove the mounting bolts (A) from the bracket.
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Fig. 324: Removing Mounting Bolts From Bracket (4-Door)

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Fig. 325: Removing Mounting Bolts From Bracket (2-Door)

6. Remove the side curtain airbag assembly.

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Installation of the side curtain airbag must be

performed according to the precautions/procedures
described at the beginning of the SRS.
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If the airbag is frayed, or has only other visible damage,

replace it. Do not attempt to repair an airbag.
When you install the airbag, make sure it is not twisted,
and not caught between the inflator brackets by the
bracket bolts.
Make sure that the side curtain airbag inflator retainer is
installed properly, otherwise the airbag could
accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
1. Place the new side curtain airbag assembly on the side of the roof. Tighten the
side curtain airbag mounting bolts (A).
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Fig. 326: Tightening Side Curtain Airbag Mounting Bolts (4-Door)

Fig. 327: Tightening Side Curtain Airbag Mounting Bolts (2-Door)

2. Connect the side curtain airbag subharness to the side curtain airbag 2P
connector (A).
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Fig. 328: Connecting Side Curtain Airbag Subharness To Side Curtain

Airbag 2P Connector
4. Connect the HDS and clear the DTCs (see ERASING THE DTC MEMORY
WITH HDS ).
5. After installing the side curtain airbag, confirm proper system operation: Turn
the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
seconds and then go off.
6. Install all removed parts.
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7. Confirm proper headliner/pillar trim overlap (see COMPONENT

AIRBAG DISPOSAL
Deployment tool 07HAZ-SG00500
Before scrapping any airbags, side airbags, side curtain airbags, or seat belt
tensioners (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), the part(s) must be
deployed. If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District
Manager must give approval and/or special instruction before deploying the part(s).
Only after the part(s) have been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for
example), can they be scrapped. If the parts appear intact (not deployed), treat them
with extreme caution. Follow this procedure.
DEPLOYING AIRBAGS IN THE VEHICLE
If an SRS equipped vehicle is to be entirely scrapped, its airbags, side airbags, side
curtain airbags, and seat belt tensioners should be deployed while still in the
vehicle. These parts should not be considered as salvageable parts and should never
be installed in another vehicle.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then disconnect the battery negative cable, and
wait at least 3 minutes.
2. Confirm that each airbag, side airbag, side curtain airbag, or seat belt tensioner
is securely mounted.
3. Confirm that the deployment tool is functioning properly by following the
check procedure on the tool label.
Driver's Airbag
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(Driver's Airbag)
Front Passenger's Airbag
5. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P
connector (A) from dashboard wire harness.
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Dashboard Wire Harness (Front Passenger's Airbag)
Side Airbag
6. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness.
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Fig. 331: Disconnecting Side Airbag 2P Connector From Floor Wire

Harness (Side Airbag)
Side curtain airbag
7. Disconnect the side curtain airbag 2P connector (A) from the side curtain
airbag subharness.
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Fig. 332: Disconnecting Side Curtain Airbag 2P Connector From Side

Curtain Airbag Subharness (Side Curtain Airbag)
Seat belt tensioner
8. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner 4P connector (A) from the floor wire
harness. Pull the seat belt out all the way and cut it.
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Fig. 333: Disconnecting Seat Belt Tensioner 4P Connector From Floor

Wire Harness (Seat Belt Tensioner)
9. Cut off each connector, strip the ends of the wires, and connect the deployment
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tool alligator clips (A) to the wires. Place the deployment tool at least 30 feet
(10 meters) away from the vehicle.
NOTE: The driver's and front passenger's airbags have dual

inflators. The like color wires go to the individual
inflators.
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Fig. 334: Connecting Deployment Tool Alligator Clips To Wires (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 335: Connecting Deployment Tool Alligator Clips To Wires (2 Of 2)

10. Connect a 12 volt battery to the tool.

If the green light on the tool comes on, the igniter circuit is defective and
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cannot deploy the component. Go to DISPOSAL OF DAMAGED

COMPONENTS .
If the red light on the tool comes on, the component is ready to be
deployed.
11. Push the tool's deployment switch. The airbags and tensioners should deploy
(deployment is both highly audible and visible: a loud noise and rapid inflation
of the bag, followed by slow deflation).
If the components deploy and the green light on the tool comes on,
continue with this procedure.
If a component does not deploy, yet the green light comes ON, its igniter
is defective. Go to DISPOSAL OF DAMAGED COMPONENTS .
During deployment, the airbags can become hot enough to burn you. Wait
30 minutes after deployment before touching the airbags.
12. Dispose of the complete airbag. No part of it can be reused. Place it in a sturdy
plastic bag (A), and seal it securely. Dispose of the deployed airbag according
to your local regulations.
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Fig. 336: Placing Airbag In Sturdy Plastic Bag And Seal Securely
DEPLOYING COMPONENTS OUT OF THE VEHICLE
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If an intact airbag or tensioner has been removed from a scrapped vehicle, or has
been found defective or damaged during transit, storage, or service, it should be
deployed as follows:
Fig. 337: Deploying Components Of Airbag Out Of Vehicle

1. Confirm that the deployment tool is functioning properly by following the

check procedure on the tool label.
2. Position the airbag face up, outdoors, on flat ground, at least 30 feet (10
meters) from any obstacles or people.
3. Follow steps 9 through 12 in DEPLOYING AIRBAGS IN THE VEHICLE .

inflators.
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DISPOSAL OF DAMAGED COMPONENTS
1. If installed in a vehicle, follow the removal procedure for the driver's airbag
(see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ), front passenger's airbag (see
FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ), side airbag (see
SIDE AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ), side curtain airbag (see SIDE
CURTAIN AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ), and seat belt tensioner (see
FRONT SEAT BELT REPLACEMENT ).
2. In all cases, make a short circuit by cutting, stripping, and twisting together the
two inflator wires.

inflators.
3. Package the component in exactly the same packaging that the new
replacement part came in.
4. Mark the outside of the box "DAMAGED AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED",
"DAMAGED SIDE AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED", "DAMAGED SIDE
CURTAIN AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED", "DAMAGED SEAT BELT
TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED" so it does not get confused with your parts
stock.
5. Contact your Honda District Parts & Service Manager for how and where to
return it for disposal.
DEPLOYMENT TOOL CHECK
1. Connect the yellow clips to both switch protector handles on the tool; connect
the tool to a battery.
2. Push the operation switch: green means the tool is OK; red means the tool is
faulty.
3. Disconnect the yellow clips from the battery.
CABLE REEL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
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1. Make sure the wheels are aligned straight ahead.

3. Remove the driver's airbag (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
4. Disconnect the connector (A) from the cable reel, then remove the steering
wheel bolt (B).
Fig. 338: Removing Steering Wheel Bolt

5. Align the front wheels straight ahead, then remove the steering wheel with a
steering wheel puller (see step 5 on STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL ). Do
not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when removing the
steering wheel.
6. Remove the dashboard lower cover (A).
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Fig. 339: Removing Dashboard Lower Cover

7. Remove the column cover screws (A), then remove the column covers (B, C).
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Fig. 340: Removing Column Covers

8. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness 4P connector (A) from the cable reel 4P
connector (B), then disconnect the dashboard wire harness 5P or 13P connector
(C) from the cable reel (D).

Cable Reel 4P Connector
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9. Release the lock tab (A) under the cable reel connector with a 90 hook shaped
tool (B). Slide the tool below the cable reel connector just above the lock tab.
Release the lower lock tab (C), and slide the cable reel off the column.
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Fig. 342: Releasing Lock Tab Under Cable Reel Connector With Hook
Shaped Tool
INSTALLATION
1. Before installing the steering wheel, align the front wheels straight ahead.
3. Set the turn signal cancelling sleeve (A) so that the projections (B) are aligned
vertically.
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Fig. 343: Setting Turn Signal Cancelling Sleeve Aligning Projections

Vertically
4. Carefully install the cable reel (A) on the steering column shaft. Then connect
the 5P or 13P connector (B) to the cable reel, and connect the 4P connector (C)
to the dashboard wire harness 4P connector (D).
Fig. 344: Installing Cable Reel On Steering Column Shaft

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5. Install the steering column covers.
6. If necessary, center the cable reel. (New replacement cable reels come
centered.) Do this by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then
rotate it counterclockwise (about 3 turns) until the arrow mark on the cable reel
label points straight up.
Fig. 345: Aligning Arrow Mark On Cable Reel Label Points Straight Up
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7. Align the projections on the cable reel with the holes on the steering wheel (see
step 2 on STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION ). Install the steering
wheel with a new steering wheel bolt (A), then reconnect the connector (B).
Fig. 346: Aligning Projections On Cable Reel With Holes On Steering

Wheel
8. Install the driver's airbag (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).

10. After installing the cable reel, confirm proper system operation:
Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for
about 6 seconds and then go off.
After the SRS indicator has turned off, turn the steering wheel fully left
and right to confirm the indicator does not come on.
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Make sure the horn works.

SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Make sure the SRS unit and the impact sensors are of the
same manufacturer.
REMOVAL
beginning work.
2. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors (see step 6 in
3. Remove the center console and front panel (see CENTER CONSOLE
4. Remove the center pocket (see CENTER POCKET
6. Remove the driver's and passenger's center lower cover (see
7. Remove the heater vent ducts (see DASHBOARD/STEERING HANGER
BEAM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
8. Disconnect the connectors and remove the Torx bolts (A), then pull out the
SRS unit.
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Fig. 347: Removing Torx Bolts

INSTALLATION
1. Install the new SRS unit (A) with Torx bolts (B), then connect the connectors
(C) to the SRS unit; push them into position until they click.
NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against its

bracket before torquing the Torx bolts.
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Fig. 348: Installing SRS Unit With Torx Bolts

2. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors (see step 6 in

4. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds
and then go off.
SIDE IMPACT SENSOR (FIRST) REPLACEMENT
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NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure before doing

repairs or service.
Make sure the SRS unit and the impact sensors are of
the same manufacturer.
REMOVAL
beginning work.
2. Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector (see step 4 in
3. Remove the seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT
4. Remove the front door sill trim and the center pillar lower trim panel.
2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA )
4-door (see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA )
5. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor
(first).
6. Remove the Torx bolts (A) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the side impact
sensor (first) (B).
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Fig. 349: Removing Side Impact Sensor

INSTALLATION
1. Install the new side impact sensor (first) (A) with the Torx bolts (B), then
connect the floor wire harness 2P connector (C) to the side impact sensor.
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Fig. 350: Installing Side Impact Sensor (First) With Torx Bolts
4. After installing the side impact sensor (first), confirm proper system operation:
Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
SIDE IMPACT SENSOR (SECOND) REPLACEMENT
same manufacturer.
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REMOVAL
beginning work.
2. Disconnect the appropriate side curtain airbag 2P connector (see step 5 in
3. Disconnect the side impact sensor (second) 2P connector (A) from the side
Fig. 351: Disconnecting Side Impact Sensor (Second) 2P Connector From

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4. Remove the Torx bolts (B) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the side impact
sensor (second) (C).
INSTALLATION
1. Install the new side impact sensor (second) (A) with the Torx bolts (B), then
connect the side curtain airbag subharness 2P connector (C) to the side impact
sensor (second).
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Fig. 352: Installing Side Impact Sensor (Second) With Torx Bolts

4. After installing the side impact sensor (second), confirm proper system
operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on
for about 6 seconds and then go off.
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OPDS/ODS UNIT REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure (see FRONT SEAT

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) before doing repairs or service.
REMOVAL
beginning work.
2. Disconnect the front passenger's side airbag harness 2P connector (see step 4 in
3. Remove the front passenger's seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) and seat-back cover (see FRONT SEAT
4. Remove the cover (A), then disconnect the OPDS unit 8P/ODS unit 18P
connector D and sensor connectors (B) from the OPDS/ODS unit (C).
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Fig. 353: Disconnecting OPDS Unit 8P/ODS Unit 18P Connector D And
Sensor Connectors
5. Remove the two screws (E) and the OPDS/ODS unit.

INSTALLATION
1. Place the new OPDS/ODS unit (A) on the seat-back frame. Tighten the two
screws (B), and connect the OPDS unit harness 8P/ODS unit harness 18P
connector D and sensor connectors (C) to the OPDS/ODS unit. Reinstall the
cover (E).
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Fig. 354: Placing OPDS/ODS Unit On Seat-Back Frame

2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal.
3. Install the front passenger's seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ), then connect the side airbag harness 2P
connector.
5. Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the
front passenger's seat.
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UNIT ).
7. Calibrate the OPDS/ODS unit ('06-07 model) (see CALIBRATING THE
FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT ('04-05 MODELS)
OR CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL) ).
8. After installing the OPDS/ODS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn
FRONT IMPACT SENSOR REPLACEMENT
same manufacturer.
REMOVAL
beginning work.
2. Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (see step 2 in DISCONNECTING
SYSTEM CONNECTORS ), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (see
step 3 in DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ), and both seat
belt tensioner 2P connectors (see step 6 DISCONNECTING SYSTEM
CONNECTORS ).
3. Remove the front bumper.
2-door (see 2-DOOR )
4. Remove the washer reservoir for the right side sensor or the intake air
resonator for the left side sensor (see WASHER RESERVOIR
REPLACEMENT ).
5. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (A), and
remove the two Torx bolts (B) using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the front
impact sensor (C).
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INSTALLATION
1. Install the new front impact sensor with new Torx bolts (A), then connect the
engine compartment wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact sensor
(C).
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Fig. 356: Installing Front Impact Sensor With Torx Bolts

2. Reconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector (see DISCONNECTING

SYSTEM CONNECTORS ), the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (see
DISCONNECTING SYSTEM CONNECTORS ), and both seat belt
tensioner 4P connectors (see DISCONNECTING SYSTEM
CONNECTORS ).
4. After installing the front impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn
FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL ('04-07 MODELS)
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NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be

described at the beginning of SRS (see PRECAUTIONS AND
PROCEDURES ).
1. Remove the front passenger's seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT

2. Remove the tamper-resistant Torx bolts attaching the seat to the weight
sensors.
2-door (see '04-07 MODELS 2-DOOR )
3. Remove the front passenger's weight sensors from the seat riser.
INSTALLATION ('04-07 MODELS)
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched
or interfering with other parts.
1. Place the new front passenger's weight sensors on the front passenger's seat
riser.
2. Install the seat onto the weight sensors.

3. Reinstall the front passenger's seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT
5. Calibrate the front passenger's weight sensor unit (see CALIBRATING THE
OR CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL) ) ('03-05 models)
ODS unit ('06 model) (see CALIBRATING THE FRONT PASSENGER'S
WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT ('04-05 MODELS) OR CALIBRATE THE
ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL) ).
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6. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system
FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure (see FRONT SEAT

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) before performing repair or
service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio and the navigation
system, then write down the audio presets.
2. Slide the seat all the way to the rear.
beginning work.
4. Disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (see step 3 in
5. Disconnect the connectors. Remove the mounting nuts (A) and the front
passenger's weight sensor unit (B) from the seat riser.
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Fig. 357: Removing Mounting Nuts And Front Passenger's Weight Sensor
Unit From Seat Riser
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched
or interfering with other parts.
1. Place the new front passenger's weight sensor unit on the seat riser. Tighten the
two mounting nuts (A) and connect the connectors.
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Fig. 358: Tightening Mounting Nuts And Connecting Connectors

2. Reconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (see GENERAL

TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).
4. Calibrate the front passenger's weight sensor unit (see CALIBRATING THE
OR CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL) ).
5. After installing the front passenger's weight sensor unit, confirm proper system
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6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio and the navigation system, then enter
the customer's audio presets, and set the clock.
DRIVER'S SEAT POSITION SENSOR REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Removal of the driver's seat position sensor must be

described at the beginning of SRS (see PRECAUTIONS
AND PROCEDURES ).
Before disconnecting the driver's seat position sensor
2P connector, disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector.
Do not turn the ignition switch ON (II), and do not
connect the battery negative cable while removing the
driver's seat position sensor.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio and the navigation
beginning work.
3. Remove the driver's seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT
4. Disconnect the floor wire harness or seat position sensor harness 2P connector
(A) from the driver's seat position sensor.
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Fig. 359: Disconnecting Floor Wire Harness Or Seat Position Sensor

Harness 2P Connector
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5. Using a Torx T30 bit, remove the Torx bolt (B), then remove the driver's seat
position sensor.
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not

pinched or interfering with other parts.
Do not turn the ignition switch ON (II), and do not
connect the battery negative cable while installing the
driver's seat position sensor.
After installing the driver's seat position sensor, make
sure it is clean. Keep it away from dust.
1. Install the new driver's seat position sensor with a Torx bolt (A), then connect
the floor wire harness or seat position sensor harness 2P connector to the
driver's seat position sensor (B).
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Fig. 360: Installing Driver's Seat Position Sensor With Torx Bolts
2. Install the driver's seat assembly (see FRONT SEAT

4. Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor with the HDS (see
OPERATION CHECK OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT POSITION
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SENSOR ).
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio and navigation system, then enter the
customer's audio presets, and set the clock.
PASSENGER'S AIRBAG CUTOFF INDICATOR ILLUMINATION BULB TEST
'04-07 MODELS
1. Remove the upper panel (see UPPER PANEL

2. Push out the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator (A) from behind the upper
panel.
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Fig. 361: Removing Passenger's Airbag Cutoff Indicator (A) From Behind
Upper Panel
3. Disconnect the 6P connector (B) from the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator.
4. Check for continuity between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals of the indicator. If
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there is no continuity, replace the bulb.

5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
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2003-07 BRAKES ABS (Anti-Lock Brake System) - Accord
2003-07 BRAKES
ABS (Anti-Lock Brake System) - Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying ABS (Anti - Lock Brakes) System Components

ABS INDICATOR
If the system is OK, the ABS indicator goes off 2 seconds after turning the
ignition switch ON (II).
The ABS indicator comes on when the ABS modulator-control unit detects a
problem in the system. However, even though the system is operating properly,
the indicator will come on under these conditions:
- Only the drive wheels rotate
- One drive wheel is stuck
- The vehicle goes into a spin
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2007 Honda Accord
- The ABS continues to operate for a long time

- The vehicle is subjected to an electrical signal disturbance
To determine the actual cause of the problem, question the customer about the
problem, taking the conditions into consideration.
When a problem is detected and the ABS indicator comes on, there are cases
when the indicator stays on until the ignition switch is turned OFF, and cases
when the indicator goes off automatically when the system returns to normal.
- DTC 61 or 62: The ABS indicator goes off automatically when the
system returns to normal.
- DTC 11, 13, 15, 17, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 54, 71, or 81: The
ABS indicator stays on until the ignition switch is turned OFF whether or
not the system returns to normal.
- DTC 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 41, 42, 43, 44, 51, 52, or 53: The
ABS indicator goes off after the ignition switch is turned OFF and then
back ON (II), the vehicle is driven, and the system is OK.
BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR
The brake system indicator in the gauge control module will come on under these
conditions:
Parking brake lever pulled up

Low brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir
ABS modulator-control unit detects a problem that affects the EBD
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC)
The memory can hold any number of DTCs. However, when the same DTC is
detected more than once, the more recent DTC is written over the earlier one.
Therefore, when the same problem is detected repeatedly, it is memorized as a
single DTC.
The DTCs are indicated in the order they occurred, beginning with the most
recent.
The DTCs are memorized in the EEPROM (nonvolatile memory). Therefore,
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the memorized DTCs are not cleared when the battery is disconnected, the
ignition switch is turned off, or the system returns to normal. Do the specified
procedures to clear the DTCs.
SELF-DIAGNOSIS
Self-diagnosis can be classified into two categories:

- Initial diagnosis:
Done right after the ignition switch is turned ON (II) and until the ABS
indicator goes off
- Regular diagnosis:
Done right after the initial diagnosis until the ignition switch is turned
OFF
When a problem is detected by self-diagnosis, the system does the following:

- Turns the ABS indicator and possibly the brake system indicator on
- Memorizes the DTC
- Stops ABS operation
KICKBACK
The pump motor operates when the ABS modulator-control unit is functioning, and
the fluid in the reservoir is forced back to the master cylinder, causing kickback at
the brake pedal.
PUMP MOTOR
The pump motor operates when the ABS modulator-control unit is functioning.
The ABS modulator-control unit checks the pump motor operation when the
vehicle is driven the first time after the ignition switch is turned ON (II). You
may hear the motor operate at this time, but it is normal.
HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT DTCS
The troubleshooting flowchart procedures assume that the cause of the problem is
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still present, and the ABS indicator and possibly the brake system indicator are still
on. Following the flowchart when the ABS indicator does not come on can result in
incorrect diagnosis. The connector illustrations show the female terminal
connectors with a single outline and the male terminal connectors with a double
outline.
1. Question the customer about the conditions when the problem occurred, and
try to reproduce the same conditions for troubleshooting. Find out when the
ABS indicator and possibly the brake system indicator came on, such as during
ABS control, after ABS control, when the vehicle was at a certain speed, etc.
2. Clear the code and, test-drive the vehicle. If the code resets immediately, refer
to DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX .
3. When the ABS indicator and possibly the brake system indicator does not
come on during the test-drive, but troubleshooting is done based on the DTC,
check for loose connectors, poor terminal contact, etc., before you start
troubleshooting.
4. After troubleshooting, clear the DTC, and test-drive the vehicle. Make sure the
ABS indicator and possibly the brake system indicator does not come on.
HOW TO RETRIEVE DTCS
1. With the ignition switch OFF, connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to
the 16P data link connector (DLC) (A) under the left side of the dashboard.
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2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and follow the prompts on the HDS to display
the ABS DTC(s) on the screen. After determining the DTC, refer to DTC
TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX .
NOTE: See the HDS Help menu for specific instructions.

HOW TO CLEAR DTCS
1. With the ignition switch OFF, connect the HDS to the 16P data link connector
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(DLC) (A) under the left side of the dashboard.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and clear the DTC(s) by following the screen
prompts on the HDS.
NOTE: See the HDS Help menu for specific instructions.
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Brake
ABS
DTC system Detection Item Troubleshooting
indicator
indicator
Right-front wheel (see DTC 11, 13, 15, 17:
sensor WHEEL SENSOR
ON or OFF (open/short to (OPEN/SHORT TO
11 ON (1) (2) body
, BODY
ground/short to GROUND/SHORT TO
power) POWER) )
(see DTC 12, 14, 16, 18:
Right-front wheel
ON or OFF sensor (electrical WHEEL SENSOR
12 ON (1) (2) noise/intermittent (ELECTRICAL
, NOISE/INTERMITTENT
interruption)
INTERRUPTION) )
Left-front wheel (see DTC 11, 13, 15, 17:
sensor WHEEL SENSOR
13 ON (1) (2) body
, BODY
power) POWER) )
(see DTC 12, 14, 16, 18:
Left-front wheel
interruption)
INTERRUPTION) )
Right-rear wheel (see DTC 11, 13, 15, 17:
sensor WHEEL SENSOR
15 ON (1) (2) body
, BODY
power) POWER) )
(see DTC 12, 14, 16, 18:
16 ON Right-rear wheel WHEEL SENSOR
ON or OFF sensor (electrical (ELECTRICAL
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(1) (2)
noise/intermittent NOISE/INTERMITTENT
,
interruption) INTERRUPTION) )
Left-rear wheel (see DTC 11, 13, 15, 17:
sensor WHEEL SENSOR
17 ON (1) (2) body
, BODY
power) POWER) )
(see DTC 12, 14, 16, 18:
Left-rear wheel
interruption)
INTERRUPTION) )
ON or OFF Right-front (see DTC 21, 22:
21 ON (1) (2) magnetic encoder MAGNETIC ENCODER
, (FRONT) )
ON or OFF Left-front (see DTC 21, 22:
22 ON (1) (2) magnetic encoder MAGNETIC ENCODER
, (FRONT) )
ON or OFF (see DTC 23, 24: PULSER
23 ON (1) (2) Right-rear pulser (REAR) )
,
ON or OFF (see DTC 23, 24: PULSER
24 ON (1) (2) Left-rear pulser (REAR) )
,
(see DTC 31, 32, 33, 34,
31 ON ON Solenoid 35, 36, 37, 38:
SOLENOID )
(see DTC 31, 32, 33, 34,
32 ON ON Solenoid 35, 36, 37, 38:
SOLENOID )
(see DTC 31, 32, 33, 34,
33 ON ON Solenoid 35, 36, 37, 38:
SOLENOID )
(see DTC 31, 32, 33, 34,
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35, 36, 37, 38:

34 ON ON Solenoid
SOLENOID )
(see DTC 31, 32, 33, 34,
35 ON ON Solenoid 35, 36, 37, 38:
SOLENOID )
(see DTC 31, 32, 33, 34,
36 ON ON Solenoid 35, 36, 37, 38:
SOLENOID )
(see DTC 31, 32, 33, 34,
37 ON ON Solenoid 35, 36, 37, 38:
SOLENOID )
(see DTC 31, 32, 33, 34,
38 ON ON Solenoid 35, 36, 37, 38:
SOLENOID )
ON or OFF Right-front wheel (see DTC 41, 42, 43, 44:
41 ON (1) (2) lock WHEEL LOCK )
,
ON or OFF Left-front wheel (see DTC 41, 42, 43, 44:
,
ON or OFF Right-rear wheel (see DTC 41, 42, 43, 44:
,
ON or OFF Left-rear wheel (see DTC 41, 42, 43, 44:
,
(see DTC 51: MOTOR
51 ON ON Motor lock
LOCK )
(see DTC 52: MOTOR
52 ON ON Motor stuck OFF
STUCK OFF )
(see DTC 53: MOTOR
53 ON ON Motor stuck ON
STUCK ON )
(see DTC 54: ABS FAIL-
ABS fail-safe SAFE RELAY; DTC 61:
54 ON ON
relay LOW +B-FSR
VOLTAGE )
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Low +B-FSR (see DTC 61: LOW +B-

61 ON ON or OFF
voltage FSR VOLTAGE )
High +B-FSR (see DTC 62: HIGH +B-
62 ON ON
voltage FSR VOLTAGE )
(see DTC 71:
Different
71 ON ON DIFFERENT
diameter tire
DIAMETER TIRE )
Central (see DTC 81: CENTRAL
processing unit PROCESSING UNIT
81 ON ON (CPU) diagnosis, (CPU) DIAGNOSIS, AND
and ROM/RAM ROM/RAM
diagnosis DIAGNOSIS )
(1) With EBD type.
(2) Braike system indicator turns ON when 2 or more wheel fail.

Symptom Diagnostic procedure
ABS Indicator Circuit Troubleshooting
ABS indicator does not come on (see SYMPTOM
TROUBLESHOOTING )
ABS Indicator Circuit Troubleshooting
ABS indicator does not go off, and
(see ABS indicator does not go off, and
no DTCs are stored
no DTCs are stored )
Brake System Indicator Circuit
Brake system indicator does not
Troubleshooting (see BRAKE SYSTEM
come on
INDICATOR DOES NOT COME ON )
Brake System Indicator Circuit
Brake system indicator does not go Troubleshooting (see BRAKE SYSTEM
off, and no DTCs are stored INDICATOR DOES NOT GO OFF,
AND NO DTCS ARE STORED )
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SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
ABS MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS FOR 25P CONNECTOR
Fig. 4: Identifying ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs And Outputs For 25P
Connector (1 Of 2)
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Fig. 5: Identifying ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs And Outputs For 25P
Connector (2 Of 2)
FEATURES
When the brake pedal is pressed during driving, the wheels can lock before the
vehicle comes to a stop. In such an event, the maneuverability of the vehicle is
reduced if the front wheels are locked, and the stability of the vehicle is reduced if
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the rear wheels are locked, creating an extremely unstable condition. The ABS
precisely controls the slip rate of the wheels to ensure maximum grip force from the
tires, thereby ensuring the maneuverability and stability of the vehicle.
The ABS calculates the slip rate of the wheels based on the vehicle speed and the
wheel speed, then it controls the brake fluid pressure to reach the target slip rate.
Grip Force of Tire and Road Surface
Fig. 6: Grip Force Of Tire And Road Surface Graph

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION CHART

COMPONENTS MAIN FUNCTION
The wheel sensor outputs
the speed signal to the
Wheel sensor ABS control unit
according to the pulser's
rotation speed.
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The ABS control unit

processes the signal from
the wheel sensors, then
ABS control unit
outputs the ABS control
ABS modulator-control signal to the modulator
unit unit.
The modulator unit
receives the control signal,
Modulator unit
then controls brake fluid
pressure for each wheel.
Motor relay (inside of the ABS control unit) The motor relay drives the
ABS pump motor.
The ABS fail-safe relay
cuts the power to the
ABS fail-safe relay (inside of the ABS control unit)
solenoid valves when a
problem is detected.
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Fig. 7: ABS System Description Diagram

ABS CONTROL UNIT
Main Control
The ABS control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel sensor signal it
received, then it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed.
The control unit detects the vehicle speed during deceleration based on the rate of
deceleration.
The ABS control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel, and transmits the
control signal to the modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high.
The hydraulic control has three modes: Pressure reducing, pressure retaining, and
pressure intensifying.
Fig. 8: Identifying Hydraulic Control Modes

Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) Control
The electronic brake distribution (EBD) function helps control vehicle braking by
adjusting the rear brake force before the ABS operates. Based on wheel sensor
signals, the ABS control unit uses the modulator to control the rear brakes
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individually. When the rear wheel speed is less than the front wheel speed, the ABS
control unit retains the current rear brake fluid pressure by closing the inlet valve in
the modulator. As the rear wheel speed increases and approaches the front wheel
speed, the control unit increases the rear brake fluid pressure by momentarily
opening the inlet valve. This whole process is repeated very rapidly. While this is
happening, there is kickback at the brake pedal.
During self-diagnosis, if the ABS control unit detects a problem that affects the
EBD, it turns on the brake system indicator and the ABS indicator.
Self-diagnosis Function
1. The ABS control unit is equipped with a CPU and a monitor IC. They check
each other for problems.
2. The CPU check the system circuits.
3. The ABS control unit turns on the ABS and possibly the brake system indicator
when the unit detects a problem, and the unit stops ABS operation.
4. The self-diagnosis can be classified into these two categories:
Initial diagnosis
Regular diagnosis
On-board Diagnosis Function
The ABS can be diagnosed with the HDS.
The ALB Checker cannot be used with this system. For air bleeding, and checking
wheel sensor signals, use the HDS.
See the HDS Help menu for specific operating instructions.
ABS MODULATOR
The ABS modulator consists of the inlet solenoid valve, outlet solenoid valve,
reservoir, pump, and the pump motor. The modulator reduces the caliper fluid
pressure directly. It is a circulating-type modulator because the brake fluid
circulates through the caliper, reservoir, and the master cylinder. The hydraulic
control has three modes; normal braking, pressure retaining, and pressure reducing.
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The hydraulic circuit is an independent four channel type, one channel for each
wheel.
Shown in normal braking mode
Fig. 9: Identifying Modulator Unit Wiring Diagram

ABS MODULATOR
Inlet valve open, outlet valve closed:
Normal braking mode: Master cylinder fluid is pumped out to
the caliper.
Inlet valve closed, outlet valve closed:
Pressure retaining mode: Caliper fluid is retained by the inlet
valve and outlet valve.
Inlet valve closed, outlet valve open:
Caliper fluid flows through the outlet
valve to the reservoir.
When in pressure reducing mode, the
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pump motor is ON.

The reservoir fluid is pumped out by
the pump, through the damping
Pressure reducing mode:
chamber, to the master cylinder.
When stopping ABS operation, the
pump motor is OFF.
WHEEL SENSORS
The wheel sensors are the magnetic contactless type. The wheel sensors detect
changing of magnetic polarity on the magnetic encoder contained inside the front
wheel bearings. The ABS modulator-control unit calculates the wheel speed based
on signals sent from the wheel sensor.
NOTE: The front wheel bearings are directional.

Wheel Speed and Modulator Control
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Fig. 10: Identifying Wheel Speed And Modulator Control

When the wheel speed drops sharply below the vehicle speed, the outlet valve
opens momentarily to reduce the caliper fluid pressure. The pump motor starts at
this time. As the wheel speed is restored, the inlet valve opens momentarily to
increase the caliper fluid pressure.
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 11: Identifying ABS Circuit Diagram (1 Of 3)

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DTC CODES
DTC CHART
DTC Description
DTC 11, 13, 15, 17 Wheel Sensor (Open/Short to Body
Ground/Short to Power)
DTC 12, 14, 16, 18 Wheel Sensor (Electrical
Noise/Intermittent Interruption)
DTC 21, 22 Magnetic Encoder (Front)
DTC 23, 24 Pulser (Rear)
DTC 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38 Solenoid
DTC 41, 42, 43, 44 Wheel Lock
DTC 51 Motor Lock
DTC 52 Motor Stuck OFF
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DTC 53 Motor Stuck ON

DTC 54 ABS Fail-safe Relay
DTC 61 Low +B-FSR Voltage
DTC 62 High +B-FSR Voltage
DTC 71 Different Diameter Tire
DTC 81 Central Processing Unit (CPU)
Diagnosis, and ROM/RAM Diagnosis
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC 11, 13, 15, 17: WHEEL SENSOR (OPEN/SHORT TO BODY GROUND/SHORT TO POWER)
1. Disconnect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector.

2. Start the engine.
3. Measure the voltage between body ground and the appropriate wheel sensor
+B and GND terminals of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector
individually (see WHEEL SENSOR +B AND GND TERMINALS ).
WHEEL SENSOR +B AND GND TERMINALS

Appropriate Terminal
DTC
+B GND
11 (Right-front) FR +B: No. 2 FR-GND: No. 18
13 (Left-front) FL +B: No. 12 FL-GND: No. 3
15 (Right-rear) RR +B: No. 6 RR-GND: No. 15
17 (Left-rear) RL +B: No. 14 RL-GND: No. 5
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Fig. 14: Measuring Voltage Between Body Ground And Appropriate

Wheel Sensor +B And GND Terminals
YES - Repair short to power in the wire between the ABS modulator-
control unit and the appropriate wheel sensor.
NO - Go to step 4.
5. Check for continuity between body ground and the appropriate wheel sensor

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DTC +B GND
Fig. 15: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground And Appropriate

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
6. Disconnect the appropriate wheel sensor 2P connector.
7. Check for continuity between body ground and the appropriate wheel sensor
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DTC
+B GND
Fig. 16: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground And Appropriate

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YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the ABS
modulator-control unit and the wheel sensor.
NO - Replace the wheel sensor (see WHEEL SENSOR
REPLACEMENT ).
8. Measure the resistance between the appropriate wheel sensor +B and GND
terminals of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector (see WHEEL
SENSOR +B AND GND TERMINALS ). Then measure the resistance
between the same terminals and reverse the positive and negative tester probes.

DTC
+B GND
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Fig. 17: Measuring Resistance Between Appropriate Wheel Sensor +B

And GND Terminals
Is the resistance infinity (open circuit) in both directions?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 11.
10. Measure the resistance between the appropriate wheel sensor 2P connector
terminals, then measure the resistance between the same terminals and reverse
the positive and negative tester probes.
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Fig. 18: Measuring Resistance Between Appropriate Wheel Sensor 2P

Connector Terminals
Is the resistance infinity (open circuit) in both directions?
YES - Replace the wheel sensor (see WHEEL SENSOR

REPLACEMENT ).
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the ABS modulator-control unit and
the wheel sensor.
12. Check for continuity between the appropriate wheel sensor +B and GND
terminals of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector (see WHEEL
SENSOR +B AND GND TERMINALS ). Then check for continuity between
the same terminals and reverse the positive and negative tester probes.

DTC
+B GND
Fig. 19: Identifying ABS Modulator-Control Unit 25P Connector

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Is there continuity in both directions?
YES - Repair the wires between the ABS modulator-control unit and the
wheel sensor that are shorted to each other.
NO - Check for loose or poor connections at the ABS modulator-control
unit 25P connector and the appropriate wheel sensor 2P connector. If the
connections are good, replace the appropriate wheel sensor and recheck
for DTCs. If the DTC returns, replace the ABS modular-control unit (see
ABS MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
DTC 12, 14, 16, 18: WHEEL SENSOR (ELECTRICAL NOISE/INTERMITTENT INTERRUPTION)
NOTE: If the ABS indicator comes on because of electrical noise,

the indicator will go off when you drive the vehicle over 19
mph (30 km/h) and the noise is gone.
1. Inspect the appropriate wheel sensor and magnetic encoder (front) and pulser
(rear) (see WHEEL SENSOR INSPECTION ).
APPROPRIATE WHEEL SENSOR

DTC Appropriate Wheel Sensor
12 Right-front
14 Left-front
16 Right-rear
18 Left-rear
Are they OK?

YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Reinstall or replace the appropriate wheel sensor or magnetic
encoder (front) and pulser (rear) (see WHEEL SENSOR
REPLACEMENT ).
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3. Check for continuity between the appropriate wheel sensor GND terminal and
other wheel sensor GND terminals (see WHEEL SENSOR GND
TERMINAL AND OTHER WHEEL SENSOR GND TERMINALS ).
WHEEL SENSOR GND TERMINAL AND OTHER WHEEL SENSOR

GND TERMINALS
DTC Appropriate Terminal Other Terminals
12 FR-GND: No. 18 No. 3 No. 15 No. 5
14 FL-GND: No. 3 No. 18 No. 15 No. 5
16 RR-GND: No. 15 No. 18 No. 3 No. 5
18 RL-GND: No. 5 No. 18 No. 3 No. 15
Fig. 20: Identifying ABS Modulator-Control Unit 25P Connector

YES - Repair short in the wires between the appropriate wheel sensor and
the other wheel sensor.
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NO - Clear the DTC, and test-drive the vehicle. If the ABS indicator
comes on and the same DTC is indicated, replace the ABS modulator-
control unit (see ABS MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION ).
DTC 21, 22: MAGNETIC ENCODER (FRONT); DTC 23, 24: PULSER (REAR)
1. Clear the DTC (see HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT DTCS ).

2. Test-drive the vehicle at 19 mph (30 km/h) or more.
Does the ABS indicator come on, and are DTCs21, 22, 23, 24 indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - The system is OK at this time.
3. Inspect the appropriate encoder or pulser (see APPROPRIATE ENCODER
OR PULSER and ). WHEEL SENSOR INSPECTION
APPROPRIATE ENCODER OR PULSER

DTC Appropriate Encoder or Pulser
21 Right-front
22 Left-front
23 Right-rear
24 Left-rear
Is the sensor OK?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Replace the magnetic encoder or pulser.
4. Check that the front encoder is installed correctly (see step 7 in
KNUCKLE/HUB REPLACEMENT ), or rear pulser for damage.
Are they installed correctly?
YES - Check for loose terminals in the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector. If necessary, substitute a known-good ABS modulator-control
unit, and recheck.
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NO - Reinstall or replace the appropriate encoder or pulser.

DTC 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38: SOLENOID

3. Verify the DTC.
Does the ABS indicator come on, and are DTCs 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37,
38 indicated?
unit.
DTC 41, 42, 43, 44: WHEEL LOCK
1. Check for brake drag when the brakes are hot.
Do the brakes drag?
YES - Repair the brake drag.

NO - Go to step 2.
2. Check the installation of the appropriate wheel sensor (see APPROPRIATE
WHEEL SENSOR ).
APPROPRIATE WHEEL SENSOR

DTC Appropriate Wheel Sensor
41 Right-front
42 Left-front
43 Right-rear
44 Left-rear
Is it correct?
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YES - The probable cause was the vehicle spun during cornering. If the
code reoccurs during normal driving, replace the ABS modulator-control
unit (see ABS MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
NO - Reinstall the wheel sensor correctly.
DTC 51: MOTOR LOCK; DTC 52: MOTOR STUCK OFF
1. Check the No. 17 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.

Is the fuse OK?
YES - Reinstall the fuse, and go to step 2.

NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck. If the fuse is blown, check for a short
to body ground in this fuse circuit. If the circuit is OK, replace the ABS
modulator-control unit (see ABS MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
3. Measure the voltage between the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector
terminal No. 9 and body ground.
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Fig. 21: Measuring Voltage Between ABS Modulator-Control Unit 25P

Connector Terminal 9 And Body Ground
YES - Reconnect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector, then go

to step 4.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 17 (30 A) fuse and the ABS
modulator-control unit.
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Is there less than 0.1 voltage?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the ABS control unit and body
ground (G203).
Does the ABS indicator come on, and are DTC 51 or DTC 52 indicated?
connector. If connections are OK, replace the ABS modulator-control unit
(see ABS MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL AND
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INSTALLATION ).
DTC 53: MOTOR STUCK ON

2. Test-drive the vehicle.
Does the ABS indicator come on, and is DTC 53 indicated?
YES - Replace the ABS modulator-control unit (see ABS

MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
DTC 54: ABS FAIL-SAFE RELAY; DTC 61: LOW +B-FSR VOLTAGE
1. Check the No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Reinstall the fuse, and go to step 2.

NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck.
Does the ABS indicator come on, and are DTC 54 or DTC 61 indicated?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Intermittent failure; the vehicle is OK at this time.
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INSTALLATION ).
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-
hood fuse/relay box and the ABS modulator-control unit.
DTC 62: HIGH +B-FSR VOLTAGE

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Does the ABS indicator come on?

YES - Go to step 3.
3. Verify the DTC.
Is DTC 62 indicated?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Do the appropriate troubleshooting for the DTC.
4. Check the charging system.
Is the charging system OK?

INSTALLATION ).
NO - Repair the charging system, and retest.
DTC 71: DIFFERENT DIAMETER TIRE

YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Intermittent failure; confirm that tire inflation is set to spec. The
vehicle is OK at this time.
3. Check that all four tires are the specified size and are inflated to the proper
specification.
Are all four tires the correct size and properly inflated?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Install the correct tires or set the tires to the correct inflation, and
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retest.
4. With the vehicle on level ground, mark each tire with a small spot of grease.
Roll the vehicle until each of the tires makes two grease spots on the floor.
5. Measure and record the distance between the two grease spots.
Is the difference between the shortest and the longest measurement more
than 10%?
YES - Replace the tire/tires that is smaller or larger than the others.
NO - Replace the ABS modulator-control unit (see ABS MODULATOR-
CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
DTC 81: CENTRAL PROCESSING UNIT (CPU) DIAGNOSIS, AND ROM/RAM DIAGNOSIS
1. Check for other DTCs.
Is another DTC present?
YES - Do the appropriate troubleshooting for the other DTC.

NO - Go to step 2.

INSTALLATION ).
NO - Intermittent failure; the vehicle is OK at this time.
ABS INDICATOR DOES NOT COME ON
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the ABS indicator.
Does the ABS indicator come on?
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NO - Go to step 2.
2. Apply the parking brake.
Does the brake system indicator come on?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Repair open in the indicator power source circuit. If necessary,
substitute a known-good gauge control module, and recheck.
Does ABS indicator come on?
unit, and recheck.
NO - Go to step 6.
REPLACEMENT ).
8. Disconnect the gauge control module connector (30P) ('03-05 models), (36P)
('06-07 models).
9. Check for continuity between the gauge control module connector and body
ground.
'03-05 models: Check between the gauge control module connector (30P)
'06-07 models: Check between the gauge control module connector (36P)
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Fig. 24: Checking Between Gauge Control Module Connector (30P)

Terminal No. 27 And Body Ground ('03-05 Models)
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Fig. 25: Checking Between Gauge Control Module Connector (36P)

Terminal No. 33 And Body Ground ('06-07 models)
YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the gauge control
module and the ABS modulator-control unit.
NO - Check for loose terminals in the gauge control module connector. If
connector is OK, replace the gauge control module (see GAUGE
CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
ABS INDICATOR DOES NOT GO OFF, AND NO DTCS ARE STORED

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YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Check fuse No. 18 (15 A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If the
fuse is good, repair open in the wire between the No. 18 (15 A) fuse and
the ABS modulator-control unit.
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5. Check for continuity between the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector
Fig. 27: Checking Continuity Between ABS Modulator-Control Unit 25P

YES - Go to step 6.
body ground (G203).
6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
7. Connect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector terminal No. 21 and
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body ground with a jumper wire.
Fig. 28: Connecting ABS Modulator-Control Unit 25P Connector

Terminal No. 21 And Body Ground With Jumper Wire
Does the ABS indicator go off?
unit, and recheck.
NO - Go to step 8.
9. Remove the gauge control module, and leave the connector connected.
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10. Connect the gauge control module connector to body ground with a jumper
wire. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
'03-05 models: Connect a jumper wire between the gauge control module
connector (30P) terminal No. 27 and body ground.
Fig. 29: Identifying Wire Side Of Female Terminals 03-05 Model (30P
Connector - '03-05 Models)
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Fig. 30: Identifying Wire Side Of Female Terminals 06-07 models (36P
Connector - '06-07 models)

Does the ABS indicator go off?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the gauge control module and the
ABS modulator-control unit.
NO - Check for loose terminal in the gauge control module connectors. If
connections are OK, replace the gauge control module (see GAUGE
CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR DOES NOT COME ON
1. With the parking brake applied, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the
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brake system indicator.

YES - The system is OK at this time

NO - Go to step 2.
REPLACEMENT ).
4. Connect the gauge control module connector to body ground with a jumper
wire.
Fig. 31: Connecting Jumper Wire Between Gauge Control Module

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Connector (30P) Terminal No. 11 And Body Ground ('03-05 Models)

Fig. 32: Connecting Jumper Wire Between Gauge Control Module

Connector (36P) Terminal No. 15 And Body Ground ('06-07 models)
Does the brake system indicator come on and stay on?
YES - Replace the gauge control module (see GAUGE CONTROL

MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Go to step 6.
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8. Connect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector terminal No. 11 and

Terminal No. 11 And Body Ground With Jumper Wire ('03-05 Models)
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Terminal No. 11 And Body Ground With Jumper Wire ('06-07 models)
INSTALLATION ).
BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR DOES NOT GO OFF, AND NO DTCS ARE STORED
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2. Release the parking brake.
Does the brake system indicator go off after several seconds?

NO - Go to step 3.
3. Check the brake fluid level.
Is the level OK?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Inspect the brake system for fluid leaks.
4. Check the ABS indicator.
Does the ABS indicator stay on?
YES - Read the ABS DTC (see HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT DTCS ),

and do the applicable troubleshooting for the DTC.
NO - Go to step 5.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the brake system indicator.
Does the brake system indicator go off?

INSTALLATION ).
NO - Go to step 8.
REPLACEMENT ).
10. Disconnect the gauge control module connector (30P) ('03-05 models), (36P)
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('06-07 models).
11. Check for continuity between the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector
Fig. 35: Checking Continuity Between ABS Modulator-Control Unit 25P

YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the gauge control
module and the ABS modulator-control unit.
NO - Check for a short to body ground in the brake system indicator
circuit (see BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR CIRCUIT DIAGRAM ).
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ABS MODULATOR-CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
NOTE: Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage

the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off
immediately with water.
Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines
during removal and installation.
To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover
the hose ends and joints with a shop towel or
equivalent material.
REMOVAL
1. Pull up the lock (A) of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector (B), and
the connector disconnects itself.
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Fig. 36: Pulling Up Lock Of ABS Modulator-Control Unit 25 Connector

2. Disconnect the six brake lines from the ABS modulator-control unit (C).
3. Remove the five 6 mm bolts and the one hex bolt.
4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit, then tighten the five 6 mm bolts and
the one hex bolt.
2. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to the specified torque.
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3. Align the connecting surface of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector
to the ABS modulator-control unit.
4. Push in the lock (A) of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P connector (B) until
you hear it click into place.
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Fig. 37: Pushing Lock Of ABS Modulator-Control Unit 25P Connector

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5. Bleed the brake system, starting with the front wheels (see BRAKE SYSTEM
BLEEDING ).
6. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off.
7. Test-drive the vehicle, check the ABS operation, and check that the ABS
indicator does not come on.
8. If the brake pedal is now spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and
then induced into the normal brake system during modulation. Exercise the
ABS then bleed the brake system again, starting with the front wheels (see
BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING ).
WHEEL SENSOR INSPECTION
1. Check the magnetic encoder (A) and pulser (B) after cleaning. If necessary,
replace the encoder or pulser.
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Fig. 38: Checking Front Magnetic Encoder And Pulser After Cleaning
(Front)
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Fig. 39: Checking Rear Magnetic Encoder And Pulser After Cleaning
(Rear)
2. Measure the air gap between the wheel sensor (C) and the magnetic encoder or
pulser all the way around while rotating the encoder or pulser.
Standard:
Front: 0.5-1.2 mm (0.02-0.05 in.)
Rear: 0.4-1.1 mm (0.02-0.04 in.)
WHEEL SENSOR REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Install the sensor carefully to avoid twisting the wires.
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Fig. 40: Installing Front Sensor

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Fig. 41: Installing Rear Sensor

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2003-07 TRANSMISSION Automatic Transmission - Accord (V6)
2003-07 TRANSMISSION
Automatic Transmission - Accord (V6)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
SPECIAL TOOLS
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4:17:16 PM Page 1 2005 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC.
2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Special Tools

DTC CODES
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2007 Honda Accord
DTC CHART
DTC Description
DTC P0705 Short in Transmission Range Switch
Circuit (Multiple Shift-position Input)
DTC P0706 Open in Transmission Range Switch
Circuit
DTC P0711 Problem in ATF Temperature Sensor
Circuit
DTC P0712 Short in ATF Temperature Sensor
Circuit
DTC P0713 Open in ATF Temperature Sensor
Circuit
DTC P0716 Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft)
Speed Sensor Circuit
DTC P0717 Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft)
Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)
DTC P0718 Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
Intermittent Failure
DTC P0721 Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft)
Speed Sensor Circuit
DTC P0722 Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft)
Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)
DTC P0723 Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed
Sensor Intermittent Failure
DTC P0731 Problem in 1st Clutch and 1st Clutch
Hydraulic Circuit
DTC P0732 Problem in 2nd Clutch and 2nd Clutch
Hydraulic Circuit
DTC P0733 Problem in 3rd Clutch and 3rd Clutch
Hydraulic Circuit
DTC P0734 Problem in 4th Clutch and 4th Clutch
Hydraulic Circuit
DTC P0735 Problem in 5th Clutch and 5th Clutch
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Hydraulic Circuit
DTC P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck
OFF
DTC P0746 A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid
Valve A Stuck OFF
Valve A Stuck ON
DTC P0751 Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF
DTC P0752 Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON
DTC P0756 Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF
DTC P0757 Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON
DTC P0761 Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF
DTC P0762 Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck ON
Valve B Stuck OFF
Valve B Stuck ON
DTC P0780 Problem in Shift Control System
DTC P0847 Short in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch
Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch
Stuck ON
DTC P0848 Open in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch
Stuck OFF
DTC P0872 Short in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch
Stuck ON
DTC P0873 Open in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch
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Stuck OFF
DTC P0962 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Circuit
Solenoid Valve A
Solenoid Valve B Circuit
Solenoid Valve B
Solenoid Valve C Circuit
Solenoid Valve C
DTC P0973 Short in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
DTC P0974 Open in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
DTC P0976 Short in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
DTC P0977 Open in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
DTC P0979 Short in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
DTC P0980 Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
DTC P2769 Short in Torque Converter Clutch
Solenoid Valve Circuit
DTC P2770 Open in Torque Converter Clutch
Solenoid Valve Circuit
NOTE: Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting

Information, refer to GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION before you troubleshoot.
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX (1 OF 2)

(1)
DTC D Indicator MIL Detection Item Action
P0705(5- Blinks ON Transmission range (see DTC P0705:
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(2) switch (multiple SHORT IN

2)
shift-position input)TRANSMISSION
RANGE SWITCH
CIRCUIT
(MULTIPLE
SHIFT-POSITION
INPUT) )
P0706(6- OFF ON Transmission range (see DTC P0706:
(2) switch (open) OPEN IN
2)
TRANSMISSION
RANGE SWITCH
CIRCUIT)
P0711 (28- Blinks OFF ATF temperature (see DTC P0711:
(2) sensor PROBLEM IN ATF
5)
(range/performance) TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
CIRCUIT )
(2) sensor (short) SHORT IN ATF
3)
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
CIRCUIT )
(2) sensor (open) OPEN IN ATF
4)
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
CIRCUIT )
P0716 (15- Blinks ON Input shaft (see DTC P0716:
(2) (mainshaft) speed PROBLEM IN
5)
sensor INPUT SHAFT
(range/performance) (MAINSHAFT)
SPEED SENSOR
CIRCUIT )
(mainshaft) speed PROBLEM IN
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(2) sensor (no signal INPUT SHAFT

3)
input) (MAINSHAFT)
SPEED SENSOR
CIRCUIT (NO
SIGNAL INPUT) )
(2) (mainshaft) speed INPUT SHAFT
6)
sensor (intermittent (MAINSHAFT)
failure) SPEED SENSOR
INTERMITTENT
FAILURE )
P0721 (9- Blinks ON Output shaft (see DTC P0721:
(2) (countershaft) speed PROBLEM IN
5)
sensor OUTPUT SHAFT
(range/performance) (COUNTERSHAFT)
SPEED SENSOR
CIRCUIT )
(2) (countershaft) speed PROBLEM IN
3)
sensor (no signal OUTPUT SHAFT
input) (COUNTERSHAFT)
SPEED SENSOR
CIRCUIT (NO
SIGNAL INPUT) )
(2) (countershaft) speed OUTPUT SHAFT
6)
sensor (intermittent (COUNTERSHAFT)
failure) SPEED SENSOR
INTERMITTENT
FAILURE )
P0731 (64- Blinks OFF 1st gear incorrect (see DTC P0731:
1) ratio PROBLEM IN 1ST
CLUTCH AND 1ST
CLUTCH
HYDRAULIC
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CIRCUIT )
P0732 (64- Blinks OFF 2nd gear incorrect (see DTC P0732:
2) ratio PROBLEM IN 2ND
CLUTCH AND 2ND
CLUTCH
HYDRAULIC
CIRCUIT )
P0733 (64- Blinks OFF 3rd gear incorrect (see DTC P0733:
3) ratio PROBLEM IN 3RD
CLUTCH AND 3RD
CLUTCH
HYDRAULIC
CIRCUIT )
P0734 (64- Blinks OFF 4th gear incorrect (see DTC P0734:
4) ratio PROBLEM IN 4TH
CLUTCH AND 4TH
CLUTCH
HYDRAULIC
CIRCUIT )
P0735 (64- Blinks OFF 5th gear incorrect (see DTC P0735:
5) ratio PROBLEM IN 5TH
CLUTCH AND 5TH
CLUTCH
HYDRAULIC
CIRCUIT )
P0741 (40- OFF ON Torque converter (see DTC P0741:
3) clutch circuit TORQUE
performance or CONVERTER
stuck OFF CLUTCH CIRCUIT
STUCK OFF )
P0746 (76- Blinks ON A/T clutch pressure (see DTC P0746:
3) control solenoid A/T CLUTCH
valve A stuck OFF PRESSURE
CONTROL
SOLENOID
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VALVE A STUCK
OFF )
P0747 (76- Blinks ON A/T clutch pressure (see DTC P0747:
4) control solenoid A/T CLUTCH
valve A stuck ON PRESSURE
CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE A STUCK
ON )
P0751 (70- Blinks ON Shift solenoid valve (see DTC P0751:
3) A stuck OFF SHIFT SOLENOID
VALVE A STUCK
OFF )
4) A stuck ON SHIFT SOLENOID
VALVE A STUCK
ON )
3) B stuck OFF SHIFT SOLENOID
VALVE B STUCK
OFF )
(1) The DTC in parentheses is the Honda code that you will see when you use
the HDS. The first number(s) before the - (hyphen) is the flash code the D
indicator indicates when the data link connector (DLC) is connected to the
HDS, and the HDS in SCS mode.
(2) This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused
by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX (2 OF 2)

(1)
DTC D Indicator MIL Detection Item Action
P0757 (71-4) Blinks ON Shift solenoid (see DTC P0757:
valve B stuck SHIFT
ON SOLENOID
VALVE B
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STUCK ON )
valve C stuck SHIFT
OFF SOLENOID
VALVE C
STUCK OFF )
valve C stuck SHIFT
ON SOLENOID
VALVE C
STUCK ON )
P0776 (77-3) Blinks ON A/T clutch (see DTC P0776:
pressure control A/T CLUTCH
solenoid valve PRESSURE
B stuck OFF CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE B
STUCK OFF )
pressure control A/T CLUTCH
solenoid valve PRESSURE
B stuck ON CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE B
STUCK ON )
P0780 (45-1) Blinks ON Shift control (see DTC P0780:
system PROBLEM IN
SHIFT
CONTROL
SYSTEM )
P0847 (26-3) Blinks OFF 3rd clutch (see DTC P0847:
(2) transmission SHORT IN 3RD
fluid pressure CLUTCH
switch (short or TRANSMISSION
stuck ON) FLUID
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2007 Honda Accord
PRESSURE
SWITCH
CIRCUIT, OR
3RD CLUTCH
TRANSMISSION
FLUID
PRESSURE
SWITCH
STUCK ON )
P0848 (26-4) Blinks OFF 3rd clutch (see DTC P0848:
(2) transmission OPEN IN 3RD
switch (open or TRANSMISSION
stuck OFF) FLUID
PRESSURE
SWITCH
CIRCUIT, OR
3RD CLUTCH
TRANSMISSION
FLUID
PRESSURE
SWITCH
STUCK OFF )
P0872 (27-3) Blinks OFF 4th clutch (see DTC P0872:
(2) transmission SHORT IN 4TH
switch (short or TRANSMISSION
stuck ON) FLUID
PRESSURE
SWITCH
CIRCUIT, OR
4TH CLUTCH
TRANSMISSION
FLUID
PRESSURE
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2007 Honda Accord
SWITCH
STUCK ON )
P0873 (27-4) Blinks OFF 4th clutch (see DTC P0873:
(2) transmission OPEN IN 4TH
switch (open or TRANSMISSION
stuck OFF) FLUID
PRESSURE
SWITCH
CIRCUIT, OR
4TH CLUTCH
TRANSMISSION
FLUID
PRESSURE
SWITCH
STUCK OFF )
(2) pressure control PROBLEM IN
solenoid valve A/T CLUTCH
A (open/short) PRESSURE
CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE A
CIRCUIT )
A PRESSURE
CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE A )
B (open/short) PRESSURE
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2007 Honda Accord
CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE B
CIRCUIT )
B PRESSURE
CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE B)
C (open/short) PRESSURE
CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE C
CIRCUIT )
C PRESSURE
CONTROL
SOLENOID
VALVE C )
(2) valve A (short) SHORT IN
SHIFT
SOLENOID
VALVE A
CIRCUIT )
(2) valve A (open) OPEN IN SHIFT
SOLENOID
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2007 Honda Accord
VALVE A
CIRCUIT )
(2) valve B (short) SHORT IN
SHIFT
SOLENOID
VALVE B
CIRCUIT )
(2) valve B (open) OPEN IN SHIFT
SOLENOID
VALVE B
CIRCUIT )
(2) valve C (short) SHORT IN
SHIFT
SOLENOID
VALVE C
CIRCUIT )
(2) valve C (open) OPEN IN SHIFT
SOLENOID
VALVE C
CIRCUIT )
P2769 (1-3) Blinks ON Torque (see DTC P2769:
(2) converter clutch SHORT IN
solenoid valve TORQUE
circuit (short) CONVERTER
CLUTCH
SOLENOID
VALVE
CIRCUIT )
P2770 (1-4) Blinks ON Torque (see DTC P2770:
(2) converter clutch OPEN IN
solenoid valve TORQUE
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2007 Honda Accord
circuit (open)
CONVERTER
CLUTCH
SOLENOID
VALVE
CIRCUIT )
(1) The DTC in parentheses is the Honda code that you will see when you use
the HDS. The first number(s) before the - (hyphen) is the flash code the D
indicator indicates when the data link connector (DLC) is connected to the
HDS, and the HDS in SCS mode.
(2) This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused
by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Symptom Probable cause(s) Notes
Check the F-CAN

communication line for a
DTC, see DTC B1178: F-
CAN
COMMUNICATION
LINE ERROR; DTC
When you turn the F-CAN B1168: GAUGE
ignition switch ON communication line CONTROL MODULE
(II), the D indicator error LOST
comes on and stays COMMUNICATION
Gauge control
on in all shift lever WITH ECM/PCM
positions, or it never module defective (ENGINE MESSAGES);
comes on at all PCM defective DTC B1169: GAUGE
CONTROL MODULE
LOST
COMMUNICATION
WITH THE PCM (A/T
MESSAGES) .
Check indicator drive
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circuit in the gauge control

module by gauge control
module self-diagnostic
function (see SELF-
DIAGNOSTIC
FUNCTION ).
Check the F-CAN

communication line for a
DTC, see DTC B1178: F-
CAN
COMMUNICATION
LINE ERROR; DTC
B1168: GAUGE
CONTROL MODULE
LOST
F-CAN COMMUNICATION
communication line WITH ECM/PCM
A/T gear position error
indicator does not (ENGINE MESSAGES);
Gauge control DTC B1169: GAUGE
come on while the
module defective CONTROL MODULE
shift lever is in that
position PCM defective LOST
Transmission range
COMMUNICATION
switch defective WITH THE PCM (A/T
MESSAGES) .
Check indicator drive
circuit in the gauge control
module by gauge control
function (see SELF-
DIAGNOSTIC
FUNCTION ).
Inspect the transmission
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2007 Honda Accord
range switch (see

TRANSMISSION
RANGE SWITCH
TEST).
Accelerator pedal
position sensor
circuit
Accelerator pedal
position sensor
defective
Brake pedal
Inspect the APP sensor
position switch signal (see APP SENSOR
circuit INSPECTION ).
Check the interlock system
Brake pedal
position switch - shift lock system circuit,
defective refer to SHIFT LOCK
Shift lever cannot be SYSTEM CIRCUIT
Shift lock solenoid
moved from P while TROUBLESHOOTING .
defective
you are pressing on Test the shift lock solenoid
Shift lock solenoid
the brake pedal (see SHIFT LOCK
control circuit
SOLENOID TEST ).
Shift lock
Inspect the transmission
mechanism
range switch (see
defective
TRANSMISSION
Throttle body
RANGE SWITCH
defective TEST).
Transmission range
switch ATP P
switch stuck OFF
Transmission range
switch ATP P
switch line opened
Ignition switch
Check the interlock system -
cannot be moved
key interlock system circuit,
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from ACC (I) to refer to KEY INTERLOCK

LOCK (0) (key is SYSTEM CIRCUIT
A problem in the key
pushed in, shift lever TROUBLESHOOTING .
interlock system of the
in P) Inspect the transmission range
interlock system
switch (see TRANSMISSION
RANGE SWITCH TEST).
Check the ATF level, and
check the ATF cooler lines
for leakage and loose
connections.
Check for a loose shift
cable at the shift lever and
the transmission control
lever.
Improper alignment of
ATF pump and torque
converter housing may
cause ATF pump seizure.
The symptoms are mostly
an rpm-related ticking
noise or a high pitched
squeak.
Check the line pressure.
Check the ATF strainer for

1. Low ATF level debris. If the ATF strainer
2. Shift cable broken is clogged with particles of
or out of adjustment steel or aluminum, inspect
3. Shift cable worn the ATF pump. If the ATF
4. ATF pump worn or pump is OK, find the
binding damaged components that
caused the debris. If no
5. Regulator valve
cause for contamination is
stuck or spring worn
found, replace the torque
Engine runs, but 6. ATF strainer converter.
vehicle does not clogged
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2007 Honda Accord
move in any gear 7. Mainshaft worn or Inspect the differential

damaged pinion gears for wear. If
8. Final gears worn or the differential pinion
damaged gears are worn, replace the
9. Transmission-to- differential assembly,
engine assembly replace the ATF strainer,
error and thoroughly clean the
transmission.
10. Axle disengaged
Be careful not to damage
the torque converter
housing when replacing
the main ball bearing. You
may also damage the ATF
pump when you torque
down the main valve body.
This will result in ATF
pump seizure if not
detected. Use the proper
tools.
Install the main seal flush
with the torque converter
housing. If you push it into
the torque converter
housing until it bottoms
out, it will block the fluid
return passage and result
in damage.
Check the 1st clutch

pressure.
Inspect the secondary shaft
and 1st/1st-hold/2nd clutch
assembly for wear and
damage.
Inspect the clutch piston,
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clutch piston check valve,

and O-rings. Check the
spring retainer for wear
and damage. Inspect the
clutch end-plate-to-top
disc clearance. If the
Vehicle moves in R, 1. 1st accumulator clearance is out of
but not in D, D3, or defective tolerance, inspect the
1 2. 1st clutch defective clutch discs and plates for
wear and damage. If the
discs and plates are worn
and damaged, replace
them as a set. If they are
OK, adjust the clutch end
plate clearance.
pressure.
damage.
1. 1st gear one-way clutch piston check valve,
Vehicle moves in 2 clutch defective and O-rings. Check the
and R, but not in D, 2. 1st gears worn or spring retainer for wear
D3, or 1 damaged and damage. Inspect the
3. 1st clutch defective clutch end-plate-to-top-
clearance is out of
tolerance, inspect the
clutch discs and plates for
or damaged, replace them
as a set. If they are OK,
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2007 Honda Accord
adjust the clutch end plate

clearance.
Check the 1st-hold clutch
pressure.
damage.
1. 1st-hold and O-rings. Check the
Vehicle moves in D, accumulator spring retainer for wear
D3, 2, and R, but not defective and damage. Inspect the
in 1 2. 1st-hold clutch clutch end-plate-to-top-
defective disc clearance. If the
clearance is out of
clearance.
Check the 2nd clutch
pressure.
damage.
1. 2nd accumulator and O-rings. Check the
Vehicle moves in D, defective spring retainer for wear
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2007 Honda Accord
D3,1,and R, but not 2. 2nd gears worn or and damage. Inspect the
in 2 damaged clutch end-plate-to-top-
3. 2nd clutch defective disc clearance. If the
clearance is out of
clearance.
Vehicle moves in D, Check the line pressure
D3, 2, and 1,but not and 5th clutch pressure.
in R (or moves Check for a missing shift
forward in R) fork bolt on the shift fork
shaft.
Check the ATF strainer for
debris. If the ATF strainer
is clogged with particles of
steel or aluminum, inspect
the ATF pump. If the ATF
pump is OK, find the
damaged components that
caused the debris. If no
cause for the
contamination is found,
replace the torque
converter.
Inspect the reverse selector
gear teeth chamfers, and
inspect engagement teeth
chamfers of the
countershaft 5th gear and
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2007 Honda Accord
reverse gear. Replace the

reverse gears and the
reverse selector if they are
worn or damaged. If the
transmission makes
clicking, grinding, or
whirring noises, also
replace the mainshaft 5th
gear, reverse idler gear,
and countershaft 5th gear.
If the 5th clutch feed pipe
guide in the end cover is
1. Shift fork shaft scored by the mainshaft,
stuck inspect the ball bearing for
2. Modulator valve excessive movement in the
defective transmission housing. If
3. Reverse CPC valve the ball bearing is OK,
defective replace the end cover as it
4. 5th accumulator is dented. The O-ring
defective under the guide is
probably worn.
5. 5th clutch defective
Replace the mainshaft if
6. Reverse gears worn the bushing for the 4th and
or damaged 5th clutch feed pipes are
loose or damaged. If the
5th clutch feed pipe is
damaged or out of round,
replace the end cover.
clutch end-plate-to-top-
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2007 Honda Accord
clearance is out of
adjust the clearance with
the clutch end plate.
Check the ATF level, and

check the ATF cooler lines
for leakage and loose
connections.
1. Low ATF level the transmission control
2. Shift cable broken lever.
or out of adjustment Check the line pressure.
3. ATF pump worn or Improper alignment of
Poor acceleration;
binding ATF pump and torque
flares when starting
off in D and D3; stall 4. Regulator valve converter housing may
speed high in D, D3, stuck or spring worn cause ATF pump seizure.
2, and 1 5. ATF strainer The symptom is mostly an
clogged rpm-ticking noise or a high
pitched squeak.
6. Torque converter
check valve Be careful not to damage
defective the torque converter

housing when replacing
the main ball bearing. You
may also damage the ATF
pump when you torque
down the main valve body.
This will result in ATF
pump seizure if not
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2007 Honda Accord
detected. Use the proper

tools.
Check the 2nd clutch
pressure.
Poor acceleration; clutch end-plate-to-top-
flares when starting disc clearance. If the
2nd clutch defective
off in D and D3; stall clearance is out of
speed high in 2 tolerance, inspect the
clearance.

shaft.
Check the 5th clutch
Poor acceleration; pressure.
1. Shift cable broken
flares when starting
or out of adjustment Inspect the clutch piston,
off in R; stall speed
high in R 2. 5th clutch defective clutch piston check valve,
clutch end-plate-to-top-
clearance is out of
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2007 Honda Accord

clearance.
1. Torque converter
clutch solenoid
valve defective
Poor acceleration; 2. Engine output low Check for a stuck lock-up valve
stall speed low 3. Lock-up clutch in the valve body.
piston defective
4. Lock-up shift valve
defective
1. Low ATF level
2. Torque converter
clutch solenoid
valve defective Set idle rpm in gear to the
3. Drive plate specified idle speed. If it is
defective or still no good, adjust the
transmission engine and transmission
Engine idle vibration misassembled mounts.
4. Engine output low Check the ATF level, and
5. Lock-up clutch check the ATF cooler lines

piston defective for leakage and loose
6. ATF pump worn or connections.
binding
defective
1. Excessive ATF
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2007 Honda Accord
2. Foreign material in
separator plate Check the ATF level, and

orifice drain the ATF if it is over

3. Relief valve filled.
defective Inspect the clutch piston,
4. 1st-hold clutch clutch piston check valve,

defective and O-rings. Check the
5. 1st clutch defective and damage. Inspect the
6. 2nd clutch defective clutch end-plate-to-top-
Vehicle moves in N 7. 3rd clutch defective disc clearance. If the
8. 4th clutch defective clearance is out of
9. 5th clutch defective tolerance, inspect the
10. Clutch clearance wear and damage. If the
incorrect discs and plates are worn
11. Needle bearing or damaged, replace them
seized up, worn, or as a set. If they are OK,
damaged adjust the clutch end plate
12. Thrust washer clearance.
seized up, worn, or Check all clutch pressures.
damaged
Check the D indicator, and

check for loose
connectors.
1. Shift solenoid valve Inspect the O-ring, and
C defective check the shift solenoid
2. A/T clutch pressure valve for seizure.
control solenoid Inspect the A/T clutch
valve A defective pressure control solenoid
3. A/T clutch pressure valve body gasket and
control solenoid ATF feed pipes for wear
valve B defective and damage. If the A/T
4. A/T clutch pressure clutch pressure control
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2007 Honda Accord
control solenoid solenoid valve is stuck,

valve C defective inspect the CPC valves.
5. Shift cable broken Check for a loose shift
or out of adjustment cable at the shift lever and
6. Connection between the transmission control
the shift cable and lever.
transmission or If the ATF strainer is
body is worn clogged with particles of
7. Input shaft steel or aluminum, inspect
(mainshaft) speed the ATF pump. If the ATF
sensor defective pump is OK, find the
8. Output shaft damaged components that
(countershaft) speed caused the debris. If no
sensor defective cause for the
contamination is found,
9. ATF temperature replace the torque
Late shift after sensor defective converter.
shifting from N to D, 10. CPC valve C stuck
or excessive shock
when shifted into D 11. Foreign material in pressure.
separator plate Inspect the clutch piston,
orifice clutch piston check valve,
12. Shift valve C and O-rings, Check the
defective spring retainer for wear
13. Shift valve E and damage. Inspect the
defective clutch end-plate-to-top-
14. Servo control valve disc clearance. If the
defective clearance is out of
15. 1st accumulator
defective
16. 1st check ball stuck discs and plates are worn
17. 1st clutch defective or damaged, replace them
clearance.
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2007 Honda Accord

check for loose
connectors.
Inspect the O-ring, and
1. Shift solenoid valve check the shift solenoid
C defective valve for seizure.
2. A/T clutch pressure Inspect the A/T clutch
control solenoid pressure control solenoid
valve A defective valve body gasket and
3. A/T clutch pressure ATF feed pipes for wear
control solenoid and damage. If the A/T
valve B defective clutch pressure control
4. A/T clutch pressure solenoid valve is stuck,
control solenoid inspect the CPC valves.
valve C defective Check for a loose shift
5. Shift cable broken cable at the shift lever and

Late shift after the transmission control
or out of adjustment
shifting from N to R lever.
6. Connection between
the shift cable and Check the ATF strainer for
transmission or debris. If the ATF strainer
body is worn is clogged with particles of
7. Input shaft steel or aluminum, inspect
(mainshaft) speed the ATF pump. If the ATF
sensor defective pump is OK, find the
damaged components that
8. Output shaft caused the debris. If no
(countershaft) speed cause for the
sensor defective contamination is found,
9. ATF temperature replace the torque
sensor defective converter.
10. Shift fork shaft Check the 5th clutch
stuck pressure.
11. CPC valve C stuck Inspect the clutch piston,
12. Reverse CPC valve clutch piston check valve,
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2007 Honda Accord
defective and O-rings. Check the

13. Foreign material in spring retainer for wear
separator plate and damage. Inspect the
orifice clutch end-plate-to-top-
14. Shift valve E disc clearance. If the
15. 5th accumulator clutch discs and plates for
defective wear and damage. If the
16. 5th clutch defective discs and plates are worn
clearance.
1. Input shaft Check the D indicator, and
(mainshaft) speed check for loose
sensor defective connectors.
The A/T does not 2. Output shaft Check the line pressure.
shift (countershaft) speed Check the input shaft
sensor defective (mainshaft) and output
3. Modulator valve shaft (countershaft) speed
defective sensor installation.
1. Shift solenoid valve check for loose
Erratic shifting: fails
B defective connectors.
to shift in D and D3;
starts off in 5th 2. Shift valve B Inspect the O-ring, and
defective check the shift solenoid
valve for seizure.
Erratic shifting: fails
B defective connectors.
to shift in 2; starts
off in 4th 2. Shift valve B Inspect the O-ring, and
defective check the shift solenoid
valve for seizure.
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2007 Honda Accord

Erratic shifting: fails 1. Shift solenoid valve check for loose
to shift in D, D 3, A defective connectors.
and 1; starts off in 2. Shift valve A Inspect the O-ring, and
3rd defective check the shift solenoid
valve for seizure.
1. A/T clutch pressure
control solenoid
valve A defective
control solenoid Check the D indicator, and
valve B defective check for loose
connectors.
3. Input shaft
Inspect the A/T clutch
(mainshaft) speed
Excessive shock or sensor defective pressure control solenoid
flares on all upshifts valve body gasket and
4. Output shaft
and downshifts ATF feed pipes for wear
(countershaft) speed
and damage. If the A/T
sensor defective
clutch pressure control
5. ATF temperature solenoid valve is stuck,
sensor defective inspect the CPC valves.
6. CPC valve A Inspect the sensor O-rings.
defective
7. Foreign material in
separator plate
orifice
Check the 1st and 2nd
clutch pressures.
1. Foreign material in spring retainer for wear
separator plate and damage. Inspect the
Excessive shock or orifice clutch end-plate-to-top-
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2007 Honda Accord
flares on 1-2 upshift 2. 2nd accumulator disc clearance. If the

or 2-1 downshift defective clearance is out of
3. 2nd check ball stuck tolerance, inspect the
4. 2nd clutch defective wear and damage. If the
clearance.

C defective connectors.
2. A/T clutch pressure Inspect the O-rings, and
control solenoid check the shift solenoid

valve A defective valve for seizure.
3. A/T clutch pressure Check for clogged orifice
control solenoid in the transmission fluid

valve B defective pressure switch connector.
4. 3rd clutch If the orifice is clogged,
Excessive shock or transmission fluid remove it and clean the
flares on 2-3 upshift pressure switch connector.
or 3-2 downshift defective Check the 2nd and 3rd
5. CPC valve B clutch pressures.

defective Inspect the clutch piston,
6. Foreign material in clutch piston check valve,

separator plate and O-rings. Check the
orifice spring retainer for wear
7. Shift valve C clutch end-plate-to-top-
defective disc clearance. If the
8. 2nd accumulator clearance is out of
defective tolerance, inspect the
9. 3rd accumulator clutch discs and plates for
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2007 Honda Accord
defective wear and damage. If the

10. 2nd check ball stuck discs and plates are worn
11. 2nd clutch defective or damaged, replace them
12. 3rd clutch defective adjust the clutch end plate
clearance.

1. Shift solenoid valve
check for loose
C defective
connectors.
Inspect the O-rings, and
control solenoid
check the shift solenoid
valve A defective
valve for seizure.
Check for clogged orifice
control solenoid
in the transmission fluid
valve B defective
pressure switch connector.
4. 4th clutch If the orifice is clogged,
transmission fluid remove it and clean the
pressure switch connector.
Excessive shock or defective
Check the 3rd and 4th
flares on 3-4 upshift 5. CPC valve B clutch pressures.
or 4-3 downshift defective
6. Foreign material in clutch piston check valve,
separator plate and O-rings. Check the
orifice spring retainer for wear
7. Shift valve C and damage. Inspect the
defective clutch end-plate-to-top-
8. 3rd accumulator disc clearance. If the
9. 4th accumulator tolerance, inspect the
defective clutch discs and plates for
10. 3rd clutch defective discs and plates are worn
11. 4th clutch defective or damaged, replace them
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2007 Honda Accord

clearance.
1. Shift solenoid valve

C defective
control solenoid Check the D indicator, and
valve A defective check for loose
3. A/T clutch pressure connectors.
control solenoid Inspect the O-rings, and
valve B defective check the shift solenoid
4. A/T clutch pressure valve for seizure.
control solenoid Check the 4th and 5th
valve C defective clutch pressures.
5. CPC valve B Inspect the clutch piston,
defective clutch piston check valve,
Excessive shock or 6. CPC valve C and O-rings. Check the
flares on 4-5 upshift defective spring retainer for wear
or 5-4 downshift 7. Foreign material in and damage. Inspect the
separator plate clutch end-plate-to-top-
orifice disc clearance. If the
8. Shift valve C clearance is out of
defective tolerance, inspect the
9. Shift valve E wear and damage. If the
defective discs and plates are worn
10. Kick-down valve or or damaged, replace them
kick-down short as a set. If they are OK,
valve defective adjust the clutch end plate
11. 4th accumulator clearance.
defective
12. 5th accumulator
defective
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2007 Honda Accord

Improper alignment of
ATF pump and torque
converter housing may
cause ATF pump seizure.
The symptoms are mostly
an rpm-related ticking
noise or a high pitched
squeak.
Inspect the contact of the
1. ATF pump worn or
countershaft and
binding
secondary shaft with the
Noise from 2. Torque converter bearings.
transmission in all housing or
Check the ATF guide
shift lever positions transmission
plates for damage and
housing bearing
wear.
worn or damaged
Inspect the 1st clutch feed
pipe for damage and out of
round. If the 1st clutch
feed pipe is damaged or
out of round, replace it.
Replace the secondary
shaft if the bushing for the
1st clutch feed pipe is
damaged or out of round.
Vehicle does not
Torque converter one-
accelerate above 31 Replace the torque converter.
way clutch defective
mph (50 km/h)
Check for a

misinstalled/damaged
Drive plate defective or
Vibration in all shift drive plate.
transmission
lever positions Set idle rpm in gear to the
misassembled
specified idle speed. If still
no good, adjust the engine
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2007 Honda Accord
mounts.
Check the stall speed.

check for loose
connectors.
1. Transmission range Inspect the transmission
switch defective or range switch. If the
out of adjustment transmission range switch
Shift lever does not 2. Shift cable broken is faulty, replace it. If the
operate smoothly or out of adjustment transmission range switch
3. Joint in shift cable is out of adjustment, adjust
and transmission or it and the shift cable.
body worn Check for a loose shift
lever.
lever.
Check the park pawl
1. Shift cable broken
spring installation and the
or out of adjustment
park lever spring
2. Connection between installation. If installation
Transmission does the shift cable and is incorrect, install the
not shift into P transmission or spring correctly. Make
body is worn sure that the park lever
3. Park mechanism stop is not installed upside
defective down. Check the distance
between the park pawl
shaft and the park lever
roller pin. If the distance is
out of tolerance, adjust the
distance with the park
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2007 Honda Accord
lever stop.
1. Torque converter
clutch solenoid
valve defective
2. A/T clutch pressure Check the D indicator, and
control solenoid check for loose
valve C defective connectors.
Inspect the A/T clutch
Torque converter 3. Torque converter
clutch does not clutch piston pressure control solenoid
disengage defective valve body gasket for wear
and damage. If the A/T
clutch pressure control
defective
solenoid valve is stuck,
5. Lock-up control inspect the CPC valves.
valve defective
6. Lock-up timing
valve defective
1. Torque converter
clutch solenoid
valve defective Check the D indicator, and
2. A/T clutch pressure check for loose
control solenoid connectors.
valve C defective Inspect the A/T clutch
Torque converter 3. Torque converter pressure control solenoid
clutch does not clutch piston valve body gasket for wear
operate smoothly defective and damage. If the A/T
4. Torque converter clutch pressure control
check valve solenoid valve is stuck,
defective inspect the CPC valves.
5. Lock-up shift valve Center all engine mounts.
defective
6. Lock-up control
valve defective
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2007 Honda Accord
7. Lock-up timing
valve defective
1. Torque converter
clutch solenoid
valve defective
control solenoid
valve C defective
3. Input shaft Check the D indicator, and
(mainshaft) speed check for loose
sensor defective connectors.
4. Output shaft Inspect the A/T clutch
Torque converter
(countershaft) speed pressure control solenoid
clutch does not
sensor defective valve body gasket for wear
engage
5. Torque converter and damage. If the A/T
clutch piston clutch pressure control
defective. solenoid valve is stuck,
6. Torque converter inspect the CPC valves.
check valve
defective
defective
8. Lock-up control
valve defective
check for loose
connectors.
A/T gear position 1. Transmission range Inspect the transmission
indicator does not switch defective or
indicate shift lever range switch. If the
out of adjustment transmission range switch
positions
2. Shift cable broken is faulty, replace it. If the
or out of adjustment transmission range switch
3. Connection between is out of adjustment, adjust
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the shift cable and it and the shift cable.

transmission or Check for a loose shift
body is worn cable at the shift lever and
shaft.
Speedometer and Output shaft
odometer do not (countershaft) speed
check for loose connectors.
work sensor defective
The engine does not
rev to high rpm, and
the transmission
VTEC rocker arms
upshifts at low rpm Check the engine rocker arms.
defective
(engine at normal
operating
temperature)
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
General Operation
The automatic transmission is a combination of a 3-element torque converter and

triple-shaft electronically controlled unit which provides 5 speeds forward and 1
reverse. The entire unit is positioned in line with the engine.
Torque Converter, Gears, and Clutches
The torque converter consists of a pump, turbine, and stator assembly in a single
unit. The converter housing (pump) is connected to the engine crankshaft and turns
as the engine turns. Around the outside of the torque converter is a ring gear which
meshes with the starter pinion when the engine is being started. The entire torque
converter assembly serves as a flywheel, transmitting power to the transmission
mainshaft. The transmission has three parallel shafts: the mainshaft, the
countershaft, and the secondary shaft. The mainshaft is in line with the engine
crankshaft. The mainshaft includes the 4th and 5th clutches, and gears for 3rd, 4th,
5th, and reverse (reverse gear is integral with the 5th gear). The countershaft
includes the 3rd clutch, and gears for the final drive, 1st, 4th, 5th, reverse, 2nd,
park, and 3rd (the final drive gear is integral with the countershaft). The secondary
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shaft includes the 1st, 1st-hold and 2nd clutches, and gears for 1st, 2nd, and idler.
The countershaft 5th gear and the countershaft reverse gear can be locked to the
countershaft at its center, providing 5th gear or reverse, depending with which way
the selector is moved. The gears on the mainshaft and the secondary shaft are in
constant mesh with those on the countershaft. When certain combinations of gears
in the transmission are engaged by the clutches, power is transmitted through the
mainshaft, then to the secondary shaft to the countershaft provide drive.
Electronic Control
The electronic control system consists of the powertrain control module (PCM),
sensors, and seven solenoid valves. Shifting and lock-up are electronically
controlled for comfortable driving under all conditions. The PCM is located below
the dashboard, under the front lower panel behind the center console.
Hydraulic Control
The valve bodies include the main valve body, the regulator valve body, the servo
body, and the accumulator body. They are bolted to the torque converter housing.
The main valve body contains the manual valve, the modulator valve, the shift
valve C, the shift valve D, the kick-down valve, the servo control valve, the torque
converter check valve, the reverse CPC valve, the lock-up shift valve, the relief
valve, the cooler check valve, and the ATF pump gears. The regulator valve body
contains the regulator valve, the lock-up timing valve, and the lock-up control
valve. The servo body contains the servo valve, the shift valve A, the shift valve B,
the CPC valves A and B. The top accumulator body contains shift valve E, CPC
valve C, 1st-hold accumulator piston, 4th accumulator piston, and 5th accumulator
piston. The accumulator body contains the 1st and 2nd accumulators and lubrication
check valve. Fluid from the regulator passes through the manual valve to the
various control valves. The 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutches receive fluid from their
respective feed pipes, and the 1st-hold and 2nd clutches receive fluid from the
internal hydraulic circuit.
Shift Control Mechanism
To shift gears, the PCM controls shift solenoid valves A, B, and C, and automatic
transaxle (A/T) clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B, while receiving
input signals from various sensors and switches located throughout the vehicle. The
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shift solenoid valves shift the positions of the shift valves to switch the port leading
hydraulic pressure to the clutch. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A
and B control the CPC valves A and B to shift smoothly between lower gear and
higher gear. This pressurizes a line to one of the clutches, engaging the clutch and
its corresponding gear.
Lock-up Mechanism
The lock-up mechanism operates in the D position (2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th), and D3
position (2nd and 3rd). The pressurized fluid is drained from the back of the torque
converter through a fluid passage, causing the torque converter clutch piston to be
held against the torque converter cover. As this takes place, the mainshaft rotates at
the same speed as the engine crankshaft. Together with hydraulic control, the PCM
optimizes the timing of the lock-up mechanism. When the torque converter clutch
solenoid valve activates, modulator pressure changes to switch lock-up on and off.
The lock-up control valve and the lock-up timing valve control the volume of lock-
up according to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. The torque converter
clutch solenoid valve is mounted on the torque converter housing, and A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve C is mounted on the transmission housing. They are
all controlled by the PCM.
Gear Selection
The shift lever has seven positions; P: PARK, R: REVERSE, N: NEUTRAL, D: 1st
through 5th gear ranges, D3: 1st through 3rd gear ranges, 2: 2nd gear, and 1: 1st
gear.
GEAR SELECTION POSITION

Position Description
Front wheels locked; park pawl engaged with park gear on
P: PARK
countershaft. All clutches are released.
Reverse; reverse selector engaged with countershaft reverse
R: REVERSE
gear and 5th clutch engaged.
N: NEUTRAL All clutches are released.
General driving; starts off in 1st, shifts automatically to 2nd,
3rd, 4th, then 5th, depending on vehicle speed and throttle
D: DRIVE (1st position. Downshifts through 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st on
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through 5th) deceleration to stop. The lock-up mechanism operates in 2nd,

3rd, 4th, and 5th gear.
Used for rapid acceleration at highway speeds and general
driving; up-hill and down-hill driving; starts off in 1st, shifts
D3: DRIVE
automatically to 2nd, then 3rd, depending on vehicle speed and
(1st through
throttle position.
3rd)
Downshifts through 2nd to 1st on deceleration to stop. The
lock-up mechanism operates in 2nd and 3rd gear.
Used for engine braking or better traction starting off on loose
2: SECOND or slippery surfaces; stays in 2nd gear; does not shift up or
down.
1: FIRST Used for engine braking; stays in 1st gear; does not shift up.
Starting is possible only in the P and N positions because of a slide-type neutral-

safety switch.
Automatic Transmission (A/T) Gear Position Indicator
The A/T gear position indicator in the instrument panel shows which shift lever
position has been selected without having to look down at the shift lever.
Clutches
The five-speed automatic transmission uses hydraulically-actuated clutches to

engage or disengage the transmission gears. When hydraulic pressure is introduced
into the clutch drum, the clutch piston moves. This presses the friction discs and
steel plates together, locking them so they don't slip. Power is then transmitted
through the engaged clutch pack to its hub-mounted gear. Likewise, when the
hydraulic pressure is bled from the clutch pack, the piston releases the friction discs
and steel plates, and they are free to slide past each other. This allows the gear to
spin independently on its shaft, transmitting no power.
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Fig. 2: Transmission Cutaway View

1st Clutch
The 1st clutch engages/disengages 1st gear, and is located at the middle of the
secondary shaft. The 1st clutch is joined back-to-back to the 2nd clutch. The 1st
clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure by its ATF feed pipe within the secondary
shaft.
1st-hold Clutch
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The 1st-hold clutch engages/disengages 1st-hold in 1 position, and is located in the

1st clutch drum. The 1st-hold clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the
orifice inside the secondary shaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic
circuit.
2nd Clutch
The 2nd clutch engages/disengages 2nd gear, and is located at the middle of the
secondary shaft. The 2nd clutch is joined back-to-back to the 1st clutch. The 2nd
clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the orifice inside the secondary shaft
by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.
3rd Clutch
The 3rd clutch engages/disengages 3rd gear, and is located at the end of the
countershaft, just behind the end cover. The 3rd clutch is supplied hydraulic
pressure by its ATF feed pipe in the countershaft.
4th Clutch
The 4th clutch engages/disengages 4th gear, and is located at the middle of the
mainshaft. The 4th clutch is joined back-to-back to the 5th clutch. The 4th clutch is
supplied hydraulic pressure by its ATF feed pipe within the mainshaft.
5th Clutch
The 5th clutch engages/disengages 5th gear, as well as reverse gear, and is located
at the middle of the mainshaft. The 5th clutch is joined back-to-back to the 4th
clutch. The 5th clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure by its ATF feed pipe within the
mainshaft.
One-way Clutch
The one-way clutch is positioned between the 1st clutch hub and the secondary
shaft 1st gear. The secondary shaft 1st gear is splined to the 1st-hold clutch hub,
with the 1st-hold clutch hub splined to the secondary shaft. The secondary shaft 1st
gear provides the outer race surface, and the 1st clutch hub provides the inner race
surface. The one-way clutch locks when power is transmitted from the secondary
shaft 1st gear to the countershaft 1st gear. The 1st clutch and gears remain engaged
in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear ranges in the D, D3, or 2 position. However,
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the one-way clutch disengages when the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th clutches and gears are
applied in the D, D3, or 2 position. This is because the increased rotational speed of
the gears on the secondary shaft causes the one-way clutch to free-wheels with the
1st clutch still engaged.
Power Flow
Gear Operation
Gears on the mainshaft:
4th gear is engaged/disengaged with the mainshaft by the 4th clutch.

5th gear is engaged/disengaged with the mainshaft by the 5th clutch.
Reverse gear is engaged/disengaged with the mainshaft by the 5th clutch.
3rd gear is splined with the mainshaft and rotates with the mainshaft.
Gears on the countershaft:

Final gear is integral with the countershaft.
1st gear, 4th gear, 2nd gear, and park gear are splined with the countershaft,
and rotate with the countershaft.
5th gear and reverse gear rotate freely from the countershaft. The reverse
selector engages 5th gear and reverse gear with the reverse selector hub. The
reverse selector hub is splined to the countershaft so 5th gear and reverse gear
engage with the countershaft.
3rd gear is engaged/disengaged with the countershaft by the 3rd clutch.
Gears on the secondary shaft:
1st gear is engaged/disengaged with the secondary shaft by the 1st clutch. 1st
gear is engaged with the secondary shaft by the one-way clutch and the 1st-
hold clutch when decelerating for engine braking.
2nd gear is engaged/disengaged with the secondary shaft by the 2nd clutch.
Idler gear is splined with the secondary shaft, and rotates with the secondary
shaft.
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Fig. 3: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (Gear Operation)

P Position
Hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches. Power is not transmitted to the
countershaft. The countershaft is locked by the park pawl interlocking the park
gear.
N Position
Engine power transmitted from the countershaft drives the mainshaft 3rd gear, the
countershaft 3rd gear, and the secondary shaft idler gear, but hydraulic pressure is
not applied to the clutches. Power is not transmitted to the countershaft. In this
position, the position of the reverse selector differs according to whether the shift
lever shifted from the D or P position:
When shifted from the D position, the reverse selector engages with the
countershaft 5th gear and the reverse selector hub, and the 5th gear engages
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with the countershaft.

When shifted from the R position, the reverse selector engages with the
countershaft reverse gear and the reverse selector hub, and the reverse gear
engages with the countershaft.
Fig. 4: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (N Position)

1 Position
In the 1 position, hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch and the 1st-hold
clutch. The power flow when accelerating is as follows:
Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch, then the 1st clutch engages the
secondary shaft 1st gear with the secondary shaft by the one-way clutch.
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Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st-hold clutch, and the 1st-hold
clutch engages the secondary shaft 1st gear with the secondary shaft.
The mainshaft 3rd gear drives the secondary shaft via the countershaft 3rd gear
and the secondary shaft idler gear.
The secondary shaft 1st gear drives the countershaft 1st gear and the
countershaft.
Power is transmitted to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final
driven gear.
Fig. 5: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (1st Position - Accelerating))

1 Position
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The power flow when decelerating as follows:

Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch and the 1st-hold clutch. Rolling
resistance from the road surface goes through the front wheels to the final drive
gear, then to the secondary shaft idler gear.
The one-way clutch disengages because the application of torque is reversed.
The counterforce conveyed to the secondary shaft idler gear turns the
mainshaft 3rd gear via the countershaft 3rd gear. As a result, engine braking
can be obtained with 1st gear.
Fig. 6: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (1 Position - Decelerating)

In the D or D3 position, the optimum gear is automatically selected from the 1st,
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2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears according to conditions such as the balance between the
throttle opening (engine loading) and vehicle speed.
D or D3 Position in 1st gear
Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch, then the 1st clutch engages the
secondary shaft 1st gear with the secondary shaft by the one-way clutch.
and secondary shaft idler gear.
The secondary shaft 1st gear drives the countershaft 1st gear and the
countershaft.
driven gear.
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Fig. 7: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (D or D3 Position In 1st

Gear)
D or D3 Position in 2nd gear and 2 Position
Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 2nd clutch, then the 2nd clutch engages the
secondary shaft 2nd gear with the secondary shaft.
and secondary shaft idler gear.
The secondary shaft 2nd gear drives the countershaft 2nd gear and the
countershaft.
driven gear.
Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed
of 2nd gear exceeds that of 1st gear, power from 1st gear is cut off at the one-
way clutch.
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Fig. 8: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (D or D3 Position In 2nd

Gear And 2 Position)
D or D3 Position in 3rd gear
Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 3rd clutch, then 3rd clutch engages the
countershaft 3rd gear with the countershaft.
The mainshaft 3rd gear drives the countershaft 3rd gear and countershaft.
driven gear.
of 3rd gear exceeds that of 1st gear, power from 1st gear is cut off at the one-
way clutch.
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Fig. 9: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (D or D3 Position In 3rd

gear)
D Position in 4th gear
Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 4th clutch, then the 4th clutch engages the
mainshaft 4th gear with the mainshaft.
The mainshaft 4th gear drives the countershaft 4th gear and the countershaft.
driven gear.
of 4th gear exceeds that of 1st gear, power from 1st gear is cut off at the one-
way clutch.
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Fig. 10: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (D or D3 Position In 4th

gear)
D Position in 5th gear
Hydraulic pressure is applied to the servo valve to engage the reverse selector
with the countershaft 5th gear while the shift lever in the forward range (D, D3,
2, and 1 positions).
Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 5th clutch, then the 5th clutch engages
the mainshaft 5th gear with the mainshaft.
The mainshaft 5th gear drives the countershaft 5th gear, which drives the
reverse selector hub and the countershaft.
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driven gear.
of 5th gear exceeds that of 1st gear, power from 1st gear is cut off at the one-
way clutch.
Fig. 11: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (D Position In 5th gear)

R Position
Hydraulic pressure is applied to the servo valve to engage the reverse selector
with the countershaft (reverse gear while the shift lever is in R position).
Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 5th clutch, then the 5th clutch engages
the mainshaft reverse gear with the mainshaft.
The mainshaft reverse gear drives the countershaft reverse gear via the reverse
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idler gear.
The rotation direction of the countershaft reverse gear is changed via the
reverse idler gear.
The countershaft reverse gear drives the countershaft via the reverse selector
which drives the reverse selector hub.
driven gear.
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Fig. 12: Automatic Transmission Power Flow (R Position)

Electronic Control System
Functional Diagram
The electronic control system consists of the powertrain control module (PCM),
sensors, and solenoid valves. Shifting and lock-up are electronically controlled for
comfortable driving under all conditions.
The PCM receives input signals from the sensors, switches, and other control units,
perform processing data, and outputs signals for the engine control system and A/T
control system. The A/T control system includes shift control, grade logic control,
clutch pressure control, and lock-up control is stored in the PCM.
The PCM switches the shift solenoid valves and the A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves to control shifting transmission gears and lock-up torque converter
clutch.
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Fig. 13: Automatic Transmission Electronic Control System Functional

Diagram
Electrical Control Locations
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Fig. 14: Locating Automatic Transmission Electrical Control

Shift Control
The PCM instantly determines which gear should be selected by various signals
sent from sensors and switches, and it actuates the shift solenoid valves A, B, and C
to control shifting.
Also, as grade logic control system has been adopted to control shifting in the D
and D3 positions. The PCM compares actual driving conditions with memorized
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driving conditions, based on the input from the accelerator pedal position sensor,
the engine coolant temperature sensor, the barometric pressure sensor, the brake
pedal position switch signal, and the shift lever position signal, to control shifting
while the vehicle is ascending or descending a slope.
Fig. 15: Automatic Transmission Shift Control Diagram

The PCM turns on and off the shift solenoid valves A, B, and C to control shifting
of the transmission gears. The combination of driving signals to shift solenoid
valves A, B, and C are shown in ON AND OFF SHIFT SOLENOID VALVES A,
B, AND C TO CONTROL SHIFTING .
ON AND OFF SHIFT SOLENOID VALVES A, B, AND C TO CONTROL

SHIFTING
Shift solenoid valves
Position Gear position A B C
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D, D3 Shifting from OFF ON OFF

the N position
Stays in 1st ON ON ON
Shifting gears ON ON ON
between 1st and
2nd
Stays in 2nd ON ON OFF
Shifting gears OFF ON OFF
between 2nd
and 3rd
Stays in 3rd OFF ON ON
D Shifting gears OFF OFF ON
between 3rd
and 4th
Stays in 4th OFF OFF OFF
Shifting gears ON OFF OFF
between 4th
and 5th
Stays in 5th ON OFF ON
2 2nd ON ON OFF
1 1st ON ON ON
R Shifting from OFF ON ON
the P and N
position
Stays in reverse OFF ON OFF
Reverse inhibit ON ON ON
P Park OFF ON OFF
N Neutral OFF ON OFF
Grade Logic Control: Ascending Control
When the PCM determines that the vehicle is climbing a hill in the D and D3
positions, the system extends the engagement area of 2nd gear, 3rd gear, and 4th
gear to prevent the transmission from frequently shifting between 2nd and 3rd
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gears, between 3rd and 4th gears, and between 4th and 5th gears, so the vehicle can
run smooth and have more power when needed.
NOTE: Shift schedules stored in the PCM between 2nd and 3rd
gears, between 3rd and 4th gears, and between 4th and 5th
gears, enable the PCM to automatically select the most
suitable gear according to the magnitude of a gradient.
Fig. 16: Ascending Control - Vehicle Speed And Throttle Opening Graph
Grade Logic Control: Descending Control
When the PCM determines that the vehicle is going down a hill in the D and D3
positions, the shift-up speed from 4th to 5th gear, 3rd to 4th gear, and from 2nd to
3rd (when the throttle is closed) becomes faster than the set speed for flat road
driving to widen the 4th gear, 3rd gear, and 2nd gear driving areas. This, in
combination with engine braking from the deceleration lock-up, achieves smooth
driving when the vehicle is descending. There are three descending modes with
different 4th gear driving areas, 3rd gear driving areas and 2nd gear driving areas
according to the magnitude of a gradient stored in the PCM. When the vehicle is in
5th or 4th gear and you are decelerating while applying the brakes on a steep hill,
the transmission will downshift to a lower gear. When you accelerate, the
transmission will then return to a higher gear.
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Fig. 17: Descending Control - Vehicle Speed And Throttle Opening Graph
Deceleration Control
When the vehicle goes around a corner and needs to decelerate first and then
accelerate, the PCM sets the data for deceleration control to reduce the number of
times the transmission shifts. When the vehicle is decelerating from speeds above
27 mph (43 km/h), the PCM shifts the transmission from 5th or 4th to 2nd earlier
than normal to cope with upcoming acceleration.
Clutch Pressure Control
The PCM actuates the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, and C to
control the clutch pressure. When shifting between lower and higher gears, the
clutch pressure regulated by the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B,
and C engages and disengages the clutch smoothly.
The PCM receives input signals from the various sensors and switches, performs
processing data, and outputs a current to the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valves A, B, and C.
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Fig. 18: Automatic Transmission Clutch Pressure Control Functional Diagram

Lock-up Control
The torque converter clutch solenoid valve controls the hydraulic pressure to switch
the lock-up shift valve and lock-up ON and OFF. The PCM actuates the torque
converter clutch solenoid valve and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve
ON, the condition of the lock-up starts. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C regulates and apply the hydraulic pressure to the lock-up control valve to
control the amount of the lock-up. The lock-up mechanism operates in the D
position (2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th), and in the D3 position (2nd and 3rd).
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Fig. 19: Automatic Transmission Lock-up Control Functional Diagram

PCM Electrical Connections
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Fig. 20: Automatic Transmission PCM Electrical Connections

PCM Inputs and Outputs
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Fig. 21: PCM Inputs And Outputs Chart (Connector A (31P) And Connector
B (24P))
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Fig. 22: PCM Inputs And Outputs Chart (Connector C (22P) - 1 Of 2)

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Fig. 23: PCM Inputs And Outputs Chart (Connector C (22P) - 2 Of 2)

Fig. 24: PCM Inputs & Outputs Chart (Connector D (17P) And E (31P))
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Hydraulic Controls
The valve body includes the main valve body, the regulator valve body, the servo
body, the top accumulator body, and the accumulator body. The ATF pump is
driven by splines on the left end of the torque converter which is attached to the
engine. Fluid flows through the regulator valve to maintain specified pressure
through the main valve body to the manual valve, directing pressure to each of the
clutches. The shift solenoid valves A and C are mounted on the outside of the
torque converter housing. The shift solenoid valve B and the torque converter clutch
solenoid valve are mounted on the torque converter housing. The A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valves A and B, and the A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve C are mounted on the transmission housing.
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Fig. 25: Identifying Hydraulic Controls

Main Valve Body
The main valve body contains the manual valve, the modulator valve, the shift
valve C, the shift valve D, the servo control valve, the cooler check valve, the
torque converter check valve, the reverse CPC valve, the lock-up shift valve, the
relief valve, the kick-down valve, the kick-down short valve, and the ATF pump
gears. The primary function of the main valve body is to switch fluid pressure on
and off and to control hydraulic pressure going to the hydraulic control system.
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Fig. 26: Identifying Main Valve Body

Regulator Valve Body
The regulator valve body is located on the main valve body. The regulator valve
body contains the regulator valve, the lock-up timing valve, and the lock-up control
valve.
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Fig. 27: Identifying Regulator Valve Body

Regulator Valve
The regulator valve maintains constant hydraulic pressure from the ATF pump to
the hydraulic control system, while also furnishing fluid to the lubricating system
and torque converter. Fluid from the ATF pump flows through B and B'. Fluid
entering from B flows through the valve orifice to the A cavity. This pressure of the
A cavity pushes the regulator valve to the spring side, and this movement of the
regulator valve uncovers the fluid port to the torque converter and the relief valve.
The fluid flows out to the torque converter and the relief valve, and the regulator
valve returns under spring force. According to the level of the hydraulic pressure
through B, the position of the regulator valve changes, and the amount of fluid from
B' through the torque converter changes. This operation is continued, maintaining
the line pressure.
Fig. 28: Identifying Regulator Valve (1 Of 2)

Increases in hydraulic pressure according to torque are performed by the regulator
valve using stator torque reaction. The stator shaft is splined to the stator in the
torque converter, and its arm end contacts the regulator spring cap. When the
vehicle is accelerating or climbing (torque converter range), stator torque reaction
acts on the stator shaft, and the stator arm pushes the regulator spring cap in the
direction of the arrow in proportion to the reaction. The stator reaction spring
compresses, and the regulator valve moves to increase the line pressure which is
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regulated by the regulator valve. The line pressure reaches its maximum when the
stator torque reaction reaches its maximum.
Fig. 29: Identifying Regulator Valve (2 Of 2)

Servo Body
The servo body is on the main valve body. It contains the servo valve, shift valve A,
shift valve B, and CPC valves A and B.
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Fig. 30: Identifying Servo Body

Top Accumulator Body
The top accumulator body contains shift valve E, CPC valve C, 4th/1st-hold
accumulator, and 5th accumulator.
Fig. 31: Identifying Top Accumulator Body

Accumulator Body
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The accumulator body is on the torque converter housing, next to the main valve
body. It contains the 1st and 2nd accumulators and the lubrication check valve.
3rd Accumulator
The 3rd accumulator is in the end cover.
Fig. 32: Identifying 3rd Accumulator

Hydraulic Flow
Distribution of Hydraulic Pressure
As the engine runs, the ATF pump starts to operate. Automatic transmission fluid
(ATF) is drawn through the ATF strainer (filter) and discharged into the hydraulic
circuit. Then, ATF flowing from the ATF pump becomes line pressure that is
regulated by the regulator valve. Torque converter pressure from the regulator valve
enters the torque converter through the lock-up shift valve and it is discharged from
the torque converter. The torque converter check valve prevents torque converter
pressure from rising.
The PCM controls the shift solenoid valves ON and OFF, and the shift solenoid
valves control shift solenoid pressure to the shift valves. Applying shift solenoid
pressure to the shift valves moves the position of the shift valve, and switches the
port of hydraulic pressure. The PCM also controls A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves A and B. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B
regulate the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid pressure and apply the A/T clutch
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pressure control solenoid pressure to CPC valves A and B.

When shifting between upper gear and lower gear, the clutch is engaged by pressure
from the CPC pressure mode. The PCM controls one of the shift solenoid valves to
move the position of the shift valve. This movement switches the port of the CPC
and line pressure. Line pressure is then applied to the clutch, and the CPC pressure
is intercepted. Engaging the clutch with line pressure happens after CPC pressure
mode has completed.
HYDRAULIC PRESSURE AT PORTS

PORT DESCRIPTION PORT DESCRIPTION PORT DESCRIPTION
No. OF PRESSURE No. OF PRESSURE No. OF PRESSURE
1 LINE 5N CPC A or LINE 56 LS A
2 LINE 5D CPC B or LINE 57 LS B
3 LINE 5G CPC B or LINE 58 LS C
REVERSE CPC TORQUE
3' 5K CPC B or LINE 90
or LINE CONVERTER
REVERSE CPC TORQUE
3" 6 MODULATE 90'
or LINE CONVERTER
TORQUE
4 LINE SA SH A 91
CONVERTER
TORQUE
4' LINE SB SH B 91'
CONVERTER
TORQUE
4" LINE SC SH C 92
CONVERTER
4A CPC A LA LC A 93 ATF COOLER
TORQUE
4B CPC B 9 LINE 94
CONVERTER
4C CPC C 10 1ST CLUTCH 95 LUBRICATION
1ST-HOLD
5B CPC A 15 95' LUBRICATION
CLUTCH
TORQUE
5C CPC B 20 2ND CLUTCH 96
CONVERTER
5H CPC B 25 LINE 99 SUCTION
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2007 Honda Accord
5J CPC B 30 3RD CLUTCH X DRAIN

HIGH POSITION
5A CPC A or LINE 40 4TH CLUTCH HX
DRAIN
5E CPC A or LINE 50 5TH CLUTCH AX AIR DRAIN
5F CPC A or LINE 51 5TH CLUTCH
5M CPC A or LINE 55 CPC C or LINE
NOTE: CPC: Clutch Pressure Control pressure

SH: Shift Solenoid pressure
LS A: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A pressure
LS B: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B pressure
LS C: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid C pressure
LC: Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid pressure
N Position
The PCM controls the shift solenoid valves. The conditions of the shift solenoid
valve and positions of the shift valve are as follows:
Shift solenoid valve A is turned OFF, and shift valve A moves to the left side.
Shift solenoid valve B is turned ON, and shift valve B stays on the right side.
Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and shift valve C stays on the left side.
Line pressure (1) passes through the manual valve and becomes line pressure (25).
Line pressure (25) stops at shift valve D. Line pressure (1) also flows to the
modulator valve and becomes modulator pressure (6). Modulator pressure (6) flows
to the shift solenoid valves and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves.
Under this condition, hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches.
NOTE: When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the

hydraulic circuit.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 33: Hydraulic Flow - N Position

D Position: 1st gear shifting from the N position
Shift solenoid valves remain the same as in the N position when shifting to the D
position from the N position. The manual valve is moved to the D position, and
switches the port of line pressure (4) leading to shift valve C and CPC valve B. Line
pressure (4) flows to the 1st clutch via the orifice. Line pressure (1) becomes CPC
C pressure (4C) at CPC valve C, then goes to the 1st accumulator backside. Line
pressure (4) also becomes the CPC B pressure (4B) at the CPC B valve. CPC B
pressure goes to the 3rd clutch, via the shift valves C, B, and A, and the 3rd clutch
is engaged. The 1st clutch is engaged gently when shifting to the D position from
the N position.

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2007 Honda Accord
hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 34: Hydraulic Flow D Position (1st Gear Shifting From N Position)
D Position: Driving in 1st gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valves A and C ON, and shift solenoid valve B stays
ON. SH A pressure (SA) in the right side of shift valves A and E is released, and
shift valves A and E are moved to the right side. SH C pressure (SC) in the right
side of shift valve C is released, and modulator pressure (6) is applied to the left
side of shift valve C. Shift valve C is moved to the right side. These valve
movements release CPC C pressure (4C) from the back of the 1st accumulator and
the 3rd clutch, and the 1st clutch is engaged securely.

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hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 35: Hydraulic Flow D Position (Driving In 1st Gear)

D Position: Shifting between 1st gear and 2nd gear
As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM controls the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves. LS B pressure (57) in the right side of
CPC valve B is released, and LS A pressure (56) is applied to the right side of CPC
valve A. Line pressure (4) becomes CPC A pressure (4A) at CPC valve A, and CPC
A pressure passes through shift valves C, A, and B, to become 2nd clutch pressure.
The 2nd clutch is engaged with CPC pressure, and the 1st clutch is also engaged.
No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.

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hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 36: Hydraulic Flow D Position (Shifting Between 1st And 2nd Gear)
D Position: Driving in 2nd gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C OFF, and shift solenoid valves A and B stays
ON. Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and SH C pressure (SC) is applied to the
right side of shift valve C. Then shift valve C is moved to the left side to switch the
line pressure port and CPC pressure port. The 2nd clutch pressure is changed to line
pressure mode, and the 2nd clutch is engaged securely. The 1st clutch is also
engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.

hydraulic circuit.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 37: Hydraulic Pressure Flow Diagram - D Position (Driving in 2nd Gear)
D Position: Shifting between 2nd gear and 3rd gear
As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM turns shift
solenoid valve A OFF. The PCM also controls the A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve B to apply LS B pressure (57) to CPC valve B. Shift solenoid valve
B stays ON, and C stays OFF. Shift solenoid valve A is turned OFF, and SH A
pressure (SA) is applied to the right side of shift valves A and E. Then shift valves
A and E are moved to the left side to switch the line pressure port and CPC pressure
port. Line pressure (4) becomes CPC A pressure (4A) at CPC valve A, and becomes
CPC B pressure (4B) at CPC valve B. CPC B pressure (4B) becomes 3rd clutch
pressure (30) at shift valve A via shift valves C and B, and flows to the 3rd clutch.
The 2nd clutch pressure is changed to CPC pressure mode by switching the position
of shift valve A. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of
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2007 Honda Accord
the one-way clutch.

hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 38: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - D Position (Shifting Between 2nd And 3rd
Gear)
D Position: Driving in 3rd gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C ON, and controls A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A to release LS A pressure (56) in CPC valve A. Shift solenoid
valve A stays OFF, and B stays ON. Releasing LS A pressure (56) in CPC valve A
releases CPC A pressure in the 2nd clutch pressure circuit. Shift solenoid valve C is
turned ON, and SH C pressure (SC) in the right side of shift valve C is released.
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2007 Honda Accord
Then shift valve C is moved to the right side to switch the line pressure port and
CPC pressure port. The 3rd clutch pressure is changed to line pressure mode, and
the 3rd clutch is engaged securely. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is
transmitted because of the one-way clutch.

hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 39: Hydraulic Flow Diagram -D Position (Driving in 3rd Gear)

D Position: Shifting between 3rd gear and 4th gear
solenoid valve B OFF. The PCM also controls the A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A to apply LS A pressure (56) to CPC valve A. Shift solenoid valve
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2007 Honda Accord
A stays OFF, and C stays ON. Shift solenoid valve B is turned OFF, and SH B
pressure (SB) is applied to the right side of shift valve B. Then shift valve B is
moved to the left side to switch the line pressure port and CPC pressure port. Line
pressure (4) becomes CPC A pressure (4A) at CPC valve A, and becomes CPC B
pressure (4B) at CPC valve B. CPC A pressure (4A) becomes 4th clutch pressure
(40) at shift valve D via shift valves C, A, and B, and flows to the 4th clutch. The
3rd clutch pressure is changed to CPC pressure mode by switching the position of
shift valve B. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the
one-way clutch.

hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 40: Hydraulic Flow Diagram-D Position (Shifting Between 3rd And 4th
Gear)
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2007 Honda Accord

D Position: Driving in 4th gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C OFF, and controls A/T clutch pressure
control solenoid valve B to release LS B pressure (57) in CPC valve B. Shift
solenoid valves A and B stay OFF. Releasing LS B pressure (57) in CPC valve B
releases CPC B pressure in the 3rd clutch pressure circuit. Shift solenoid valve C is
turned OFF, and SH C pressure (SC) is applied to the right side of shift valve C.
Then shift valve C is moved to the left side to switch the line pressure port and CPC
pressure port. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes 4th clutch pressure
(40) at shift valve D via shift valves C, A, and B, and flows to the 4th clutch. The
4th clutch pressure is changed to line pressure mode by switching the position of
shift valve C, and the 4th clutch is engaged securely. The 1st clutch is also engaged.
No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.

hydraulic circuit.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 41: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - D Position (Driving in 4th Gear)

D Position: Shifting between 4th gear and 5th gear
solenoid valve A ON. The PCM also controls the A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve B to apply LS B pressure (57) to CPC valve B. Shift solenoid valve
B and C stay OFF. Shift solenoid valve A is turned ON, and SH A pressure (SA) in
the right side of shift valves A and E is released. Then shift valves A and E are
moved to the left side to switch the line pressure port and CPC pressure port. Line
pressure (4) becomes CPC A pressure (4A) at CPC valve A, and becomes CPC B
pressure (4B) at CPC valve B. CPC B pressure (4B) becomes 5th clutch pressure
(50) at shift valve C, and flows to the 5th clutch via shift valves B and A and the
manual valve. The 4th clutch pressure is changed to CPC pressure mode by
switching the position of shift valve A. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is
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2007 Honda Accord
transmitted because of the one-way clutch.

hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 42: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - D Position (Shifting Between 4th And 5th
Gear)
D Position: Driving in 5th gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C ON, and controls A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A to release LS A pressure (56) in CPC valve A. Shift solenoid
valve A stays ON, and B stays OFF. Releasing LS A pressure (56) in CPC valve A
releases CPC A pressure in the 4th clutch pressure circuit. Shift solenoid valve C is
turned ON, and SH C pressure (SC) in the right side of shift valve C is released.
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2007 Honda Accord
Then shift valve C is moved to the right side to switch the line pressure port and
CPC pressure port. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes 5th clutch
pressure (50) at the manual valve, via shift valves C, B, and A, and flows to the 5th
clutch. The 5th clutch pressure is changed to line pressure mode by switching the
position of shift valve C. The 5th clutch is engaged securely, and the 1st clutch is
also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.

hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 43: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - D Position (Driving in 5th Gear)

2 Position
The PCM controls the shift solenoid valves and the A/T clutch pressure control
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2007 Honda Accord
solenoid valves. The conditions of the shift solenoid valves and the positions of
shift valves are as follows:
Shift solenoid valve A is turned ON, and shift valve A stays on the right side.
Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and shift valve C stays on the left side.
The PCM also controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to apply LS A
pressure (56) to CPC valve A. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes
2nd clutch pressure (20) at shift valve B, via shift valves C and A. 2nd clutch
pressure (20) is applied to the 2nd clutch, and the 2nd clutch is engaged. The 1st
clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.

hydraulic circuit.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 44: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - 2nd Position

1 Position
The PCM controls the shift solenoid valves and the A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves. The conditions of the shift solenoid valves and the positions of
shift valves are as follows:
Shift solenoid valve A is turned ON, and shift valve A stays on the right side.
Shift solenoid valve C is turned ON, and shift valve C moves to the right side
by modulator pressure (6).
The PCM also controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B to apply LS B
pressure (57) to CPC valve B. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes 1st
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2007 Honda Accord
clutch pressure (10) at shift valve C. 1st clutch pressure (10) is applied to the 1st
clutch, and the 1st clutch is engaged. Line pressure (4) also flows to CPC valve B,
and becomes CPC B pressure (4B). CPC B pressure (4B) becomes 1st-hold clutch
pressure (15) at shift valve D, via shift valves C, B, and A. 1st-hold clutch pressure
(15) is applied to the 1st-hold clutch, and the 1st-hold clutch is engaged.

hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 45: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - 1st Position

R Position: Shifting to the R position from the P or N position
Line pressure (1) becomes line pressure (3) at the manual valve, and flows to the
reverse CPC valve. Line pressure (3) is regulated by the reverse CPC valve and
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2007 Honda Accord
becomes line pressure (3'). Line pressure (3') pushes the servo valve to the reverse
position, passes through the servo valve, and flows to the manual valve. Line
pressure (3") becomes 5th clutch pressure (50). The 5th clutch pressure (50) is
applied to the 5th clutch, and 5th clutch is engaged with the reverse CPC pressure
mode.

hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 46: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - R Position (Shifting to R From P Or N

Position)
R Position: Driving in reverse gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C OFF. Shift solenoid valve A stays OFF and B
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2007 Honda Accord
stays ON. Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and SH C pressure (SC) is applied
to the right side of the reverse CPC valve. Then the reverse CPC valve moves to the
left side, creating full line pressure. Line pressure to the 5th clutch is the same as
when shifting to the R position, and 5th clutch pressure increases. The 5th clutch is
engaged with line pressure mode.
Reverse Inhibitor Control
When the R position is selected while the vehicle is moving forward at speeds over
6mph (10 km/h), the PCM outputs to turn shift solenoid valves A and C ON; and
shift solenoid valve B remains ON. The reverse CPC valve is moved to right side
and covers the port to stop the line pressure (3') to the servo valve. The line pressure
(3') is not applied to the servo valve, and the 5th clutch pressure (50) is not applied
to the 5th clutch. As a result, power is not transmitted to the reverse position.

hydraulic circuit.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 47: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - R Position (Driving In Reverse Gear)

P Position
Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF by the PCM, and SH C pressure (SC) is
applied to the right side of the reverse CPC valve. Then the reverse CPC valve is
moved to the left side to uncover the port leading line pressure (3) to the servo
valve. Line pressure (3') passes through the servo valve and flows to the manual
valve. Line pressure (3") is intercepted at the manual valve, and is not applied to the
clutches.

hydraulic circuit.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 48: Hydraulic Flow Diagram - P Position

Lock-up System
The lock-up mechanism operates in the D position (2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th), and D3
position (2nd and 3rd). The pressurized fluid is drained from the back of the torque
converter through a fluid passage, causing the torque converter clutch piston to be
held against the torque converter cover. As this takes place, the mainshaft rotates at
the same speed as the engine crankshaft. Together with hydraulic control, the PCM
optimizes the timing of the lock-up mechanism. When the torque converter clutch
solenoid valve activates, modulator pressure changes to switch lock-up ON and
OFF. The lock-up control valve and the lock-up timing valve control the amount of
lock-up according to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. The torque
converter clutch solenoid valve is mounted on the torque converter housing, and
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C is mounted on the transmission
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2007 Honda Accord
housing. They are controlled by the PCM.
Fig. 49: Identifying Lock-up System

Torque Converter Clutch Lock-up ON (Engaging Torque Converter Clutch)
Fluid in the chamber between the torque converter cover and the torque converter
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2007 Honda Accord
clutch piston is drained off, and fluid entering from the chamber between the pump
and stator exerts pressure through the torque converter clutch piston against the
torque converter cover. The torque converter clutch piston engages with the torque
converter cover; torque converter clutch lock-up ON, and the mainshaft rotates at
the same speed as the engine.
Fig. 50: Identifying Torque Converter Clutch Lock-up ON (Engaging Torque

Converter Clutch)
Torque Converter Clutch Lock-up OFF (Disengaging Torque Converter Clutch)
Fluid entered from the chamber between the torque converter cover and the torque
converter clutch piston passes through the torque converter and goes out through
the chambers between the turbine and the stator, and between the pump and the
stator. As a result, the torque converter clutch piston moves away from the torque
converter cover, and the torque converter clutch is released; torque converter clutch
lock-up OFF.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 51: Identifying Torque Converter Clutch Lock-up OFF (Disengaging

Torque Converter Clutch)
No Lock-up
The torque converter clutch solenoid valve is turned OFF by the PCM. The lock-up
shift valve receives LC pressure (LA) on the left side, and modulator pressure (6)
on the right side. The lock-up shift valve is in the right side to uncover the port
leading torque converter pressure (92) to the left side of the torque converter.
Torque converter pressure (92) becomes torque converter pressure (94), and enters
into the left side of the torque converter to disengage the torque converter clutch.
The lock-up is OFF.

hydraulic circuit.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 52: Identifying No Lock-up

Partial Lock-up
As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the torque converter
clutch solenoid valve is turned ON by the PCM to release LC pressure (LA) in the
left cavity of the lock-up shift valve. Modulator pressure (6) is applied to the right
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2007 Honda Accord
side of the lock-up shift valve, then the lock-up shift valve is moved in the left side
to switch the port leading torque converter pressure to the right side of the torque
converter. Torque converter pressure (91) is applied to the right side of the torque
converter to engage the torque converter clutch. The PCM also controls A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve C, and LS C pressure (58) is applied to the lock-up
control valve and the lock-up timing valve. When LS C pressure (58) is lower,
torque converter pressure (91) from the lock-up timing valve is lower. The torque
converter clutch is engaged partially. LS C pressure (58) increases, and the lock-up
timing valve is moved to the left side to uncover the port leading torque converter
pressure to high. The torque converter clutch is then engaged securely. Under this
condition, the torque converter clutch is engaged by pressure from the right side of
the torque converter; this lock-up condition is in partial lock-up.

hydraulic circuit.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 53: Identifying Partial Lock-up

Full Lock-up
When the vehicle speed increases, the PCM sends a signal to the A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve C to increase LS C pressure (58). The LS C pressure
(58) is applied to the lock-up control valve and the lock-up timing valve, and moves
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2007 Honda Accord
them to the left side. Under this condition, torque converter back pressure (F2) is
released fully, causing the torque converter clutch to be fully engaged.

hydraulic circuit.
Fig. 54: Identifying Full Lock-up

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2007 Honda Accord

Circuit Diagram - PCM A/T Control System
Fig. 55: Circuit Diagram - PCM A/T Control System (1 Of 2)

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 56: Circuit Diagram - PCM A/T Control System (2 Of 2)

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0705: Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (Multiple Shift-position Input)
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2007 Honda Accord
NOTE: Record all freeze data and review General

Troubleshooting Information, refer to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION before you
troubleshoot.
This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and
cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the
transmission.

2. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
4. Press brake pedal. Move the shift lever through all positions. Stop for at least 1
second in each position.
5. Monitor the OBD status for P0705 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode
Menu for a pass/fail.
Does the result indicate FAILED?

YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for an
intermittent short in the wires between the transmission range switch and
PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 2 and
recheck.
7. Inspect the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE
SWITCH TEST).
Is the switch OK?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Replace the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION
RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT), then go to step 59.
9. Shift to all positions other than P.
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2007 Honda Accord
10. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals C17 and E3.
Fig. 57: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminals C17 And
E3

NO - Go to step 8.
12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
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2007 Honda Accord
13. Disconnect PCM connector C (22P).

14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C17 and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 58: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminals C17

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal C17 and
the transmission range switch, then go to step 59.
NO - Go to step 12.
15. Disconnect PCM connectors B (24P) and E (31P).
16. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals B15 and body ground,
and between E3 and body ground.
Fig. 59: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminals B15 &
Body Ground And E3 & Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminals B15, E3,
and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to
step 59.
17. Shift to all positions other than R.
E3
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 19.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 61: Checking continuity Between PCM Connector Terminals C11

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 66.
23. Shift to all positions other than N.
24. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals B23 and E3.
Fig. 62: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminals B23 And
E3
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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Go to step 25.
27. Disconnect PCM connector B (24P).
28. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B23 and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 63: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal B23 and
Body Ground.
YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B23 and
NO - Go to step 66.
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2007 Honda Accord
29. Shift to all positions other than D.

E3

NO - Go to step 31.
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2007 Honda Accord

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2007 Honda Accord

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 66.
35. Shift to all positions other than D3.
E3
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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Go to step 37.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 67: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminals A8, A9

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 66.
41. Shift to all positions other than 2.
Fig. 68: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminals D5 And

A9
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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Go to step 43.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 69: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal C2 And

Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 66.
47. Shift to all positions other than 1.

E3

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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 49.
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2007 Honda Accord

Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 66.
53. Shift to all positions other than D, D3, and 2.
E3
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 55.
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2007 Honda Accord
Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 66.
59. Reconnect all connectors.
63. With the brake pedal pressed, move the shift lever through all positions. Stop
for at least 1 second in each position.
64. Check for DTCs with the HDS.
Is DTC P0705 indicated?
YES - Check for intermittent short to body ground in the wire between the
transmission range switch and the PCM, then return to step 1 and recheck.
NO - Go to step 65..
65. Monitor the OBD status for P0705 in the DTCs Menu with the HDS.
Does the result indicate PASSED?
YES - Troubleshooting is complete. If any other DTCs were indicated in

step 64, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO - If screen indicates FAILED, check for intermittent short to body
ground in the wire between the transmission range switch and the PCM,
then return to step 1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT
COMPLETED, go to step 62.
66. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-
good PCM, refer to PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR
TESTING , then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-
good PCM, replace the original PCM.
68. With the brake pedal pressed, move the shift lever through all positions. Stop
for at least 1 second in each position.
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Check for intermittent short to body ground in the wire between the
transmission range switch and the PCM. If the PCM was updated,
substitute a known-good PCM, refer to PCM UPDATING AND
SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING , then go to step 67. If the PCM was
substituted, return to step 1 and recheck.
NO - Go to step 70.
YES - If the PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM

was substituted, replace the original PCM, then go to step 69. If any other
DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
ground in the wire between the transmission range switch and the PCM. If
the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, refer to PCM
UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING , then go to step
67. If the PCM was substituted, return to step 1 and recheck. If the screen
indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 67.
DTC P0706: Open in Transmission Range Switch Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

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2007 Honda Accord
3. Raise the front of the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the
front wheels to rotate freely.
4. Start the engine. Disable the TCS/VSA by pressing the TCS/VSA OFF switch,
run the vehicle in the D position until the vehicle speed reaches 35 mph (56
km/h), then slow down and stop the wheels.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor
connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and PCM.
If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
7. Inspect the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE
SWITCH TEST ).
Is the switch OK?

YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION
RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT), then go to step 29.
8. Adjust the shift cable, refer to SHIFT CABLE ADJUSTMENT .
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Troubleshooting is complete. If the tester indicates NOT
13. Shift the shift lever into the D position, and verify the ATP FWD and ATP D
in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is the ATP FWD and ATP D ON?

NO - Go to step 19.
14. Shift the shift lever into the D3 position, and verify the ATP FWD and ATP
D3 in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is the ATP FWD and ATP D ON?

NO - Go to step 19.
15. Shift to the 2 position, and verify the ATP FWD and ATP 2 in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
Is the ATP FWD and ATP 2 ON?

NO - Go to step 19.

connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and PCM.
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2007 Honda Accord

20. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
21. Check for continuity between transmission range switch connector terminal
No. 6 and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 74: Checking Continuity Between Transmission Range Switch

Connector Terminals No. 6 And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Repair open in the wire between transmission range switch
connector terminal No. 6 and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground
(G101, G102), then go to step 29.
23. Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals
No. 1 and No. 6.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 75: Measuring Voltage Between Transmission Range Switch

Connector Terminals No. 1 And No. 6
Is there voltage?
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and
PCM connector terminal C19, then go to step 29.
No. 3 and No. 6.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there voltage?

No. 6 and No. 8.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there voltage?

No. 2 and No. 6.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there voltage?
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the

transmission range switch and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, then
return to step 1 and recheck.
NO - Go to step 32.

NO - If screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose
terminals between the transmission range switch and the PCM, then return
to step 1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to
step 30.
TESTING , then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-
good PCM, replace the original PCM.
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the

transmission range switch and the PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 36.

was substituted, replace the original PCM, then go to step 35. If any other
DTCs were indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
terminals between the transmission range switch and the PCM. If the PCM
was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, refer to PCM UPDATING
AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING , then go to step 34. If the PCM
was substituted, return to step 1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT
DTC P0711: Problem in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

2. Check the ATF temperature with the HDS in the A/T data list.
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2007 Honda Accord
Does the ATF temperature exceed the ambient-air temperature?

YES - Record the ATF temperature. Leave the engine off for more than 30
minutes, and go to step 2.
NO - Record the ATF temperature. Test the stall speed RPM three times.
SeeSTALL SPEED TEST. Go to step 2 after stall speed testing.
3. Check the ATF temperature with the HDS.
Did the ATF temperature change?

YES - Leave the engine off for more than 30 minutes, and go to step 3.
NO - Replace the ATF temperature sensor (see ATF TEMPERATURE
SENSOR REPLACEMENT), then go to step 6.
4. Check the ECT SENSOR with the HDS.
Is the ECT SENSOR equal to the ambient-air temperature?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Leave the engine off until ECT sensor equals ambient-air
temperature, then go to step 5.
5. Check the ATF temperature with the HDS.
Is the ATF temperature almost equal to ECT SENSOR?

YES - Go to step 6.
9. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D position through all five
gears.

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF
temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, then return to
step 1 and recheck.
NO - Go to step 11.

terminals between the transmission range switch and the PCM, then return
step 9.
DTC P0712: Short in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

2. Check ATF temperature sensor voltage with the HDS in the A/T data list.
Is ATF temperature sensor voltage 0.07 V or less?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for
intermittent short in the wires between the ATF temperature sensor and
PCM.
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2007 Honda Accord
3. Turn the ignitiion switch off.

4. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector at the transmission end
cover.
6. Check ATF temperature sensor voltage with the HDS.
Is ATF temperature sensor voltage 0.07 V or less?

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Replace ATF temperature sensor (see ATF TEMPERATURE
10. Check for continuity between ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No.
2 and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 79: Checking Continuity Between ATF Temperature Sensor

Connector Terminal No. 2 And Body Ground
YES - Repair short to ground between PCM connector terminal C3 and

the ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2 then, go to step 11.
NO - Go to step 17.
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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

YES - Check for intermittent short to body ground in the wires between
the ATF temperature sensor and PCM, then go to step 1.
NO - Go to step 16.

NO - If screen indicates FAILED, check for intermittent shart to body
ground in the wire bewtween the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM,
TESTING , then recheck.
gears.

YES - Check for intermittent shart to body ground in the wire bewtween
the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 20.
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2007 Honda Accord

was substituted, replace the original PCM. If any other DTCs were
indicated in step 19, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO - If screen indicates FAILED, check for intermittent shart to body
ground in the wire bewtween the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM. If
DTC P0713: Open in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

2. Check ATF temperature sensor voltage with the HDS in the A/T data list.
Does ATF temperature sensor voltage exceed 4.93 V?
YES - Go to step 3.
connections or loose terminals at the ATF temperature sensor and PCM.
4. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector at the transmission end
cover.
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2007 Honda Accord
5. Connect a jumper wire between ATF temperature sensor connector terminals

No. 1 and No. 2.
7. Check the ATF TEMP SENSOR voltage in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Does the ATF TEMP SENSOR voltage exceed 4.93 V?

YES - Go to step 8.
9. Remove the jumper wire from the ATF temperature sensor connector.
11. Measure the voltage between ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No.
2 and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 80: Measuring Voltage Between ATF Temperature Sensor Connector

Terminal No. 2 And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 17.
14. Disconnect PCM connector D (17P).
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2007 Honda Accord
15. Connect ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 1 and body ground
with a jumper wire.
16. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal D10 and body ground.

NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal D10 and
the ATF temperature sensor connector, then go to step 18.
17. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal C3 and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 81: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminal C3 And

Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C3 and
the ATF temperature sensor connector, then go to step 18.
NO - Go to step 24.
gears.
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminanls bewtween the ATF
temperature sensor and the PCM, then return to step 1.
NO - Go to step 23.

terminals between the ATF temperature sensor and the PCM, then return
step 21.
TESTING .
gears.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the ATF
temperature sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a
known-good PCM, refer to PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION
FOR TESTING , then go to step 25. If the PCM was substituted, return to
step 1.
NO - Go to step 27.


DTC P0716: Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit
NOTE:
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2007 Honda Accord
Record all freeze data and review General

troubleshoot.
transmission.

3. Check for proper input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor installation (see INPUT
SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT).
run the vehicle in the D position, and hold the vehicle at speeds over 30 mph
(48 km/h) for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for loose or
poor connections at the PCM and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor
connectors. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5.
9. Disconnect PCM connectors B (24P) and E (31P), and input shaft (mainshaft)
speed sensor connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Body Ground And Between E3 & Body Ground

step 30.
11. Connect PCM connectors B (24P) and E (31P).
13. Measure the voltage between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 83: Measuring Voltage Between Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed

Sensor Connector Terminal No. 1 And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 25.
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2007 Honda Accord
16. Check for continuity between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector
Fig. 84: Checking Continuity Between Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed

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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector

terminal D8 and mainshaft speed sensor, then go to step 30.
NO - Go to step 17.
terminal No. 3 and PCM connector terminal D10.

Sensor Connector Terminal No. 3 And PCM Connector Terminal D10
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Repair open in the wire between the input shaft (mainshaft) speed
sensor connector and PCM connector terminal D10, then go to step 30.
18. Reconnect PCM connector D(17P).
terminals No.2 and No. 3.
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2007 Honda Accord

Sensor Connector Terminals No.2 And No. 3
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 30.
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2007 Honda Accord
21. Connect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.

22. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals D8 and E3.

E3
Is the voltage 0 V or about 5 V?

NO - Replace the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (see INPUT
SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT), then go
to step 30.
23. Shift to the P position. Start the engine, and let it idle.
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2007 Honda Accord
24. With the engine idling, measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals
D8 and E3.

E3
Is there 1.5 - 3.5 V?

to step 30.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 89: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminal D12 and
E3
Is there about 5 V?
YES - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal D12 and
the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30.
NO - Go to step 26.
28. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal D12 and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 90: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminals D12

And Body Ground

terminal D12 and the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then go to step
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2007 Honda Accord
30.
NO - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal
D12. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software, or substitute a known-good PCM, refer to PCM UPDATING
AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING , then recheck. If the
symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the
original PCM.

E3
Is there about 5 V?
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 36.
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the input
shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the PCM, return to step 1.
NO - Go to step 35.

terminals between the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the PCM,
then return to step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to
step 33.
TESTING .
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2007 Honda Accord

shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated,
substituted, return to step 1.
NO - Go to step 39.

DTC P0717: Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)

troubleshoot.
transmission.

3. Check for proper input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor installation (see INPUT
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2007 Honda Accord
SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT).


YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for loose or
poor connections at the PCM and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor
connectors. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and
recheck.
9. Disconnect PCM connectors B (24P) and E (31P), and input shaft (mainshaft)
speed sensor connector.
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2007 Honda Accord

step 30.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 25.
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2007 Honda Accord

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2007 Honda Accord


terminal D8 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30.
NO - Go to step 17.
terminal No. 3 and PCM connector terminal D10.

Sensor Connector Terminal No. 3 And PCM Connector Terminal D10
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Repair open in the wire between the input shaft (mainshaft) speed
sensor connector and PCM connector terminal D10, then go to step 30.
18. Connect PCM connector D (17P).
terminals No. 2 and No. 3.
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2007 Honda Accord

Sensor Connector Terminals No. 2 And No. 3
Is there about 5 V?
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 23.
Fig. 97: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminals D8 and

E3

to step 30.
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2007 Honda Accord
24. With the engine idling, measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals
D8 and E3.

E3
Is there 1.5 - 3.5 V?

to step 30.
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2007 Honda Accord
E3
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 25.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 100: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal D12

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord
30.
NO - Go to step 36.

E3
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 36.
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2007 Honda Accord

shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the PCM return to step 1.
NO - Go to step 35.

step 33.
TESTING .
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 39.

DTC P0718: Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure

troubleshoot.
transmission.

gears.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 5.
connections or loose terminals at the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor
and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and
recheck.
6. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and inspect the
connector and connector terminals to be sure they are making good contact.
Are the connector terminals OK?

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair the connector terminals, then go to step 7.
gears.

NO - Troubleshooting is complete. If the screen indicates NOT
COMPETED, go to step 8.
13. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
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2007 Honda Accord

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2007 Honda Accord

21.
NO - Go to step 15.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there about 5 V?
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Replace the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (see INPUT
to step 21.
NO - Go to step 16.
20. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal D8 and input shaft
(mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2.
Fig. 104: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal D8 And

Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Connector Terminal No. 2
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2007 Honda Accord

gears.
NO - Go to step 26.

step 24.
TESTING .
gears.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 30.

DTC P0721: Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

3. Check for proper output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation (see
OUTPUT SHAFT (COUNTERSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR
REPLACEMENT).
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2007 Honda Accord
run the vehicle in the D position with engine speed 2,000 rpm or higher for
more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
YES - Go to step 7.
connections or loose terminals at the output shaft (countershaft) speed
sensor and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step
5 and recheck.
9. Disconnect PCM connectors B (24P) and E (31P), and output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector.
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2007 Honda Accord

step 30.
13. Measure the voltage between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 106: Measuring Voltage Between Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed

Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 25.
16. Check for continuity between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 107: Checking Continuity Between Output Shaft (Countershaft)

Speed Sensor Connector Terminal No. 2 And Body Ground

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2007 Honda Accord
terminal D14 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step
30.
NO - Go to step 17.
connector terminal No. 3 and PCM connector terminal D4.

Speed Sensor Connector Terminal No. 3 And PCM Connector Terminal
D4
NO - Repair open in the wire between the output shaft (countershaft)
speed sensor connector and PCM connector terminal D4, then go to step
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2007 Honda Accord
30.
connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3.

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2007 Honda Accord
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 29.
21. Connect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.
Fig. 110: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminals D14

And E3
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Replace the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (see OUTPUT
SHAFT (COUNTERSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT),
then go to step 30.
24. Shift to the D position, and measure the voltage between PCM connector
terminals D14 and E3.
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2007 Honda Accord
E3
Is there 1.5 - 3.5 V?

then go to step 30.

E3
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2007 Honda Accord
Is there about 5 V?
the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30.
NO - Go to step 26.
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2007 Honda Accord

Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord


terminal D6 and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to
step 30.
NO - Go to step 36.

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2007 Honda Accord
And E3
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 36.
NO - Go to step 35.

step 33.
TESTING .
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 39.

DTC P0722: Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)

troubleshoot.
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2007 Honda Accord
transmission.

3. Check for proper output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation (See
OUTPUT SHAFT (COUNTERSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR
REPLACEMENT).
6. Monitor the OBD status for P0722 in the DTCs/ Freeze Data in A/T Mode
YES - Go to step 7.
connections or loose terminals at the output shaft (countershaft) speed
sensor and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step
5 and recheck.
9. Disconnect PCM connectors B (24P) and E (31P), and output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals B15, E3,
step 30.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 25.
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2007 Honda Accord

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2007 Honda Accord

terminal D14 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step
30.
NO - Go to step 17.
connector terminal No. 3 and PCM connector terminal D4.

Speed Sensor Connector Terminal No. 3 And PCM Connector Terminal
D4
NO - Repair open in the wire between the output shaft (countershaft)
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2007 Honda Accord
speed sensor connector and PCM connector terminal D4, then go to step
30.

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2007 Honda Accord

Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 29.

And E3
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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Replace the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (See OUTPUT
then go to step 30.
24. Shift to the D position, and measure the voltage between PCM connector
terminals D14 and E3.
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3
Is there 1.5 - 3.5 V?

then go to step 30.
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2007 Honda Accord

E3
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 26.
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2007 Honda Accord

Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord


step 30.
NO - Go to step 36.

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2007 Honda Accord
And E3
Is there about 5 V?
the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor then go to step 29.
NO - Go to step 36.
NO - Go to step 35.

step 33.
TESTING .
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 39.

DTC P0723: Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure

troubleshoot.
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2007 Honda Accord
transmission.

gears.

YES - Go to step 5.
connections or loose terminals at the output shaft (countershaft) and PCM.
6. Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector, and inspect
the connector and connector terminals to be sure they are making good contact.
Are the connector terminals OK?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair the connector terminals, then go to step 7.
gears.

connections or loose terminals at the output shaft (countershaft) and PCM.
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2007 Honda Accord

13. Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.

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2007 Honda Accord


step 21.
NO - Go to step 15.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there about 5 V?
YES - Replace the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (see OUTPUT
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2007 Honda Accord
then go to step 21.

NO - Go to step 18.
20. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal D14 and output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2.
Fig. 127: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal D14

And Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Connector Terminal No. 2
YES - Got to step 27.

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2007 Honda Accord

gears.
NO - Go to step 26.

step 24.
TESTING .
gears.
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 30.

DTC P0731: Problem in 1st Clutch and 1st Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes
on).
2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid
leaks.
3. Drain the ATF (see step 3 in ATF Replacement ) through a strainer. Inspect
the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material.
Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material?
YES - Replace the transmission.

NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 in ATF Replacement ), then go to step
4.
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2007 Honda Accord
4. Measure the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST).

Is the line pressure within service limit?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair the ATF pump and regulator valve, or replace the
transmission.
6. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those
indicated by the freeze data, or drive in 1st gear in the D position at speeds
over 10 mph (16 km/h) for 20 seconds.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then turn it ON (II) again.
YES - Repair 1st clutch, or replace the transmission.

NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester
indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 6 and recheck.
DTC P0732: Problem in 2nd Clutch and 2nd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

on).
leaks.
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2007 Honda Accord

4.
YES - Go to step 5.
transmission.
5. Measure 2nd clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST).
Is 2nd clutch pressure within service limit?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Shift valves A, B, and C are stuck. Repair these shift valves and
hydraulic circuit, or replace the transmission.
indicated by the freeze data, or drive in the 2nd gear in the D position at speeds
YES - Repair the 2nd clutch, or replace the transmission.

DTC P0733: Problem in 3rd Clutch and 3rd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

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2007 Honda Accord

on).
leaks.

4.

YES - Go to step 5.
transmission.
5. Measure 3rd clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST).
Is 3rd clutch pressure within service limit?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Shift valves A, B, and C are stuck. Repair these shift valves and
indicated by the freeze data, or drive in the 5th gear in the D position at speeds
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Repair the 3rd clutch, or replace the transmission.

DTC P0734: Problem in 4th Clutch and 4th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

on).
leaks.

4.
YES - Go to step 5.
transmission.
5. Measure 4th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST).
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2007 Honda Accord
Is 4th clutch pressure within service limit?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Shift valves A, B, C, and D are stuck. Repair these valves and
YES - Repair the 4th clutch, or replace the transmission.

DTC P0735: Problem in 5th Clutch and 5th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit

on).
leaks.
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 in ), then go to step 4.
YES - Go to step 5.
transmission.
5. Measure 5th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST).
Is 5th clutch pressure within service limit?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Shift valves A, B, and C are stuck. Repair these valves and hydraulic
circuit, replace the transmission.

YES - Repair the 5th clutch, or replace the transmission.
DTC P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck OFF

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2007 Honda Accord
on).
leaks.

NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 in ATF Replacement), then go to step
4.
6. Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the
torque converter clutch solenoid valve operates with the HDS.
Is a clicking sound heard?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid valve (see TORQUE
CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE REPLACEMENT),
then go to step 13.
7. Run the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches 176F (80C).
8. Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test
Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS.
Is the system OK?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the tester result. Go to
step 13 if any part was replaced.
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2007 Honda Accord
9. Test-drive the vehicle at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 2 minutes while monitoring the
vehicle speed with the HDS.
YES - Repair the faulty torque converter clutch mechanism, torque

converter clutch hydraulic circuit, lock-up shift valve, or lock-up control
valve, or replace the transmission.
indicated by the freeze data.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 16.

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step 6. If the screen indicates
NOT COMPLETED, go to step 14.
DTC P0746: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF

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2007 Honda Accord

on).
leaks.

4.
6. Test-drive the vehicle in the D position through all five gears at speeds over 12
mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
7. Retest-drive the vehicle in the D position through all five gears at speeds over
12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
YES - Go to step 9.
Is the result NORMAL?
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.

NO - Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the test result, but the
tester has not determined the cause of the failure, go to step 11. If any part
was replaced, go to step 12.
11. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see A/T CLUTCH
PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST).
Does the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A work properly?
YES - Repair hydraulic system related with CPC valve A, or replace the
transmission, then go to step 12.
NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see A/T
CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B
REPLACEMENT), then go to step 12.
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 17.

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2007 Honda Accord
DTC P0747: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON

on).
leaks.

4.
YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord

11. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see A/T CLUTCH
Does the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A work properly?
YES - Repair hydraulic system related with CPC valve A, or replace the
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 17.

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2007 Honda Accord

DTC P0751: Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF

on).
leaks.

4.

YES - Go to step 9.
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2007 Honda Accord
10. Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift
solenoid valve A operates with the HDS.

NO - Replace the shift solenoid valve A (see SHIFT SOLENOID
VALVE A REPLACEMENT), then go to step 14.
YES - Repair shift valves A and E, or replace the transmission, then go to

step 14.

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 19.
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2007 Honda Accord

DTC P0752: Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON

on).
leaks.

4.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
10. Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift
solenoid valve A operates with the HDS.

YES - Repair shift valves A and E, or replace the transmission, then go to

step 13.

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 19.

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step . If the screen indicates
DTC P0756: Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF

on).
leaks.

4.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
10. Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift
solenoid valve B operates with the HDS.

NO - Replace the shift solenoid valve B (see SHIFT SOLENOID
VALVE B REPLACEMENT), then go to step 14.
YES - Repair shift valve B, or replace the transmission, then go to step 14.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 19.

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step . If the screen indicates
DTC P0757: Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON

on).
leaks.

4.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 9.
10. Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift
solenoid valve B operates with the HDS.


YES - Repair shift valve B, or replace the transmission, then go to step 14.
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 19.

DTC P0761: Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF

on).
leaks.

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2007 Honda Accord

4.
YES - Go to step 9.
10. Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift
solenoid valve C operates with the HDS.

NO - Replace the shift solenoid valve C (see SHIFT SOLENOID
VALVE C REPLACEMENT), then go to step 14.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Repair shift valves C and E, or replace the transmission, then go to

step 14.
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 19.

DTC P0762: Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck ON

on).
leaks.
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2007 Honda Accord

4.
YES - Go to step 9.
10. Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift
solenoid valve C operates with the HDS.

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Repair shift valves C and E, or replace the transmission, then go to

step 14.
Is DTC P074? indicated?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 19.

DTC P0776: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF

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2007 Honda Accord
on).
leaks.

4.
YES - Go to step 9.
10. Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test
Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS.
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2007 Honda Accord

11. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see A/T CLUTCH
Does the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B work properly?
YES - Repair hydraulic system related with CPC valve B, or replace the
NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see A/T
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 17.

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2007 Honda Accord
DTC P0777: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON

on).
leaks.

4.
YES - Go to step 9.
10. Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test
Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS.
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2007 Honda Accord

11. Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see A/T CLUTCH
Does the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B work properly?
YES - Repair hydraulic system related with CPC valve B, or replace the
Is DTC P074? indicated?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 17.

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2007 Honda Accord

DTC P0780: Problem in Shift Control System

on).
leaks.

4.

YES - Go to step 9.
10. Run the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches 176F (80C).
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Repair shift valve D, or replace the transmission, then go to step 14.
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 19.

DTC P0847: Short in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch Stuck ON
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2007 Honda Accord

troubleshoot.
transmission.

3. Check the 3rd PRES SWITCH signal with the HDS in the A/T data list when
not in 3rd gear.
Is the 3rd PRES SWITCH ON?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Go to step 7.
4. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator
fan comes on).
5. Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in the D3 position for about 5 seconds, then shift
to the D position, and drive in 4th gear for about 5 seconds. Slow down and
stop the wheels.
6. Monitor the OBD status for P0847 in the DTC Menu with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check the
BLU/WHT wire for an intermittent short to ground between the 3rd clutch
transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT
COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
8. Disconnect the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
10. Check the 3rd PRES SWITCH signal with the HDS in the A/T data list.
Is the 3rd PRES SWITCH OFF?
YES - Replace the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (see 3RD
CLUTCH TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH
NO - Go to step 11.
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2007 Honda Accord

Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

terminal C5 and the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go
to step 15.
NO - Go to step 22.
fan comes on).
stop the wheels.
20. Check for DTC's with the HDS.
YES - Check the BLU/WHT wire for an intermittent short to ground

between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM, then
NO - Go to step 21.
YES - Troubleshooting is complete.

NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
TESTING .
fan comes on).
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2007 Honda Accord
stop the wheels.

YES - Check the BLU/WHT wire for an intermittent short to ground

between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM. If the
PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, refer to PCM
23. If the PCM was substituted, return to step 1.
NO - Go to step 26.

NO - If screen indicates FAILED, check the BLU/WHT wire for an
intermittent short to ground between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid
pressure switch and PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-
TESTING , then go to step 23. If the PCM was substituted, return to step
1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 23.
DTC P0848: Open in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch Stuck OFF

troubleshoot.
transmission.
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2007 Honda Accord

fan comes on).
4. Drive the vehicle in the 3rd gear in the D3 position, and verify that the SHIFT
MAP NUMBER indicates 3rd with the HDS in the A/T data list.
5. Check the 3rd PRES SWITCH signal with the HDS in the A/T data list.
Is the 3rd PRES SWITCH ON?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
to D position, and drive in 4th gear for about 5 seconds. Slow down and stop
the wheels.
YES - Go to step 8.
connections or loose terminals at the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure
switch and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step
6 and recheck.
9. Disconnect the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
11. Measure the voltage between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch
connector terminal and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 129: Measuring Voltage Between 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid

Pressure Switch Connector Terminal And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?
YES - Replace the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (see 3RD
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 12.

Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there about 5 V?
the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go to step 13.
NO - Go to step 20.
13. Reconnect the connectors.
fan comes on).
stop the wheels.
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the 3rd
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM, then return to step 1
and recheck.
NO - Go to step 19.

terminals between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and
the PCM, then return to step 1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT
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2007 Honda Accord

TESTING .
fan comes on).
stop the wheels.

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between the 3rd
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM. If the PCM was
updated, substitute a known-good PCM, refer to PCM UPDATING AND
NO - Go to step 24.

terminals between the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and
PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, refer to
PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING , then go to
step 21. If the PCM was substituted, return to step 1 and recheck. If the
screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 21.
DTC P0872: Short in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch Stuck ON

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2007 Honda Accord

troubleshoot.
transmission.

3. Check the 4th PRES SWITCH signal with the HDS in the A/T data list when
not in 4th gear.
Is the 4th PRES SWITCH ON?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 7.
fan comes on).
5. Drive the vehicle in 4th gear in the D position for about 5 seconds. Slow down
and stop the wheels.
YES - Go to step 7.
BLU/YEL wire for an intermittent short to ground between the 4th clutch
transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT
COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
8. Disconnect the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
10. Check the 4th PRES SWITCH signal with the HDS in the A/T data list.
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2007 Honda Accord
Is the 4th PRES SWITCH OFF?

YES - Replace the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (see 4TH
NO - Go to step 11.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 131: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal C13

And Body Ground

terminal C13 and the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go
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2007 Honda Accord
to step 15.
NO - Go to step 22.
fan comes on).

YES - Check the BLU/YEL wire for an intermittent short to ground
between the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM, then
NO - Go to step 21.

NO - If screen indicates FAILED, check the BLU/YEL wire for an
intermittent short to ground between the 4th clutch transmission fluid
pressure switch and PCM, then return to step 1 and recheck. If the screen
TESTING .
fan comes on).
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2007 Honda Accord
stop the wheels.

YES - Check the BLU/YEL wire for an intermittent short to ground

between the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM. If the
PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, refer to PCM
23. If the PCM was substituted, return to step 1.
NO - Go to step 26.

NO - If screen indicates FAILED, check the BLU/YEL wire for an
intermittent short to ground between the 4th clutch transmission fluid
pressure switch and PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-
1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 23.
DTC P0873: Open in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch Stuck OFF

TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you
troubleshoot.
transmission.
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2007 Honda Accord

fan comes on).
4. Drive the vehicle in 4th gear in the D position, and verify that the SHIFT MAP
NUMBER indicates 4th with the HDS in the A/T data list.
5. Check the 4th PRES SWITCH signal with the HDS in the A/T data list.
Is the 4th PRES SWITCH ON?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
6. Drive the vehicle in 4th gear in the D position for about 5 seconds, then slow
down and stop the wheels.
YES - Go to step 8.
connections or loose terminals at the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure
switch and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step
6 and recheck.
9. Disconnect the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
11. Measure the voltage between the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch
connector terminal and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 132: Measuring Voltage Between 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid

Pressure Switch Connector Terminal And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?
YES -Replace the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (see 4TH
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 12.
Fig. 133: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminals C13

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord
Is there about 5 V?
the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go to step 13.
NO - Go to step 20.
fan comes on).
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the 4th clutch
transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 19.

terminals at the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM,
TESTING .
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2007 Honda Accord
fan comes on).


YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the 4th clutch
transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 24.

terminals at the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch and PCM. If
DTC P0962: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit

troubleshoot.
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2007 Honda Accord
transmission.

3. Check that DTC P0962 recurs.
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Choose Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control in Miscellaneous Test Menu,
and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS.

YES - Go to step 5
NO - Go to step 7.
5. Command the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A at 1.0A in Clutch
Pressure Control Solenoid Control menu.

YES - Go to step 7.
connections or loose terminals at the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to
step 4 and recheck.
8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector.
9. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the
solenoid connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 134: Measuring A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A

Resistance At Solenoid Connector
Is there 3 - 10 ohms?
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2007 Honda Accord

10. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
connector terminal No.2 and body ground.
Fig. 135: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal A20

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2007 Honda Accord
And Body Ground


NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A and ground (G151), or repair poor ground (G151), or
repair poor ground (G151), then go to step 14.
12. Measure the voltage between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 as the ignition switch is turned ON.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 136: Measuring Voltage Between A/T Clutch Pressure Control

Solenoid Valve A Connector Terminals No. 1 And No. 2
NO - Repair open or short in the wire between PCM connector terminal
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2007 Honda Accord
C7 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, then go to step 14.
13. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals E10 and E3.
Fig. 137: Measuring Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminals E10

And E3

YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal
E10. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest
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2007 Honda Accord
AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING , then recheck. If the

original PCM.
NO - Check for blown No. 18 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If the
fuse is OK, repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal E10
and the under-dash fuse/relay box, then go to step 13.
gears.
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve A and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 19.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and PCM,
TESTING .
gears.
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2007 Honda Accord

pressure control solenoid valve A and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 23.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and PCM.
If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, refer to PCM
DTC P0963: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A

troubleshoot.
transmission.

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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 4.
and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 5
NO - Go to step 7.
5. Command the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A at 0.2 A in Clutch
YES - Go to step 7.
step 4 and recheck.
8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector.
9. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the
solenoid connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 138: Measuring A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A


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2007 Honda Accord

Fig. 139: Checking Continuity Between A/T Clutch Pressure Control

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2007 Honda Accord
Solenoid Valve A Connector Terminal No. 2 And Body Ground


solenoid valve A and ground (G151), or repair poor ground (G151), then
go to step 11.
gears.
pressure control solenoid valve A and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 16.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and PCM,
TESTING .
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2007 Honda Accord
gears.
pressure control solenoid valve A and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 20.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and PCM.
DTC P0966: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 4.
and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS.

YES - Go to step 5
NO - Go to step 7.
5. Command the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B at 1.0 A in Clutch
YES - Go to step 7.
valve B and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to
step 4 and recheck.
8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector.
9. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the
solenoid connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 140: Measuring A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B

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2007 Honda Accord

10. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B

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2007 Honda Accord
Solenoid Valve B Connector Terminal No. 2 And Body Ground


solenoid valve B and ground (G151), or repair poor ground (G151), then
go to step 14.
12. Measure the voltage between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
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2007 Honda Accord

Solenoid Valve B Connector Terminals No. 1 And No. 2

C15 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B, then go to step 14.
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

pressure control solenoid valve B and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 19.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and PCM,
TESTING .
gears.
pressure control solenoid valve B and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 23.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and PCM.
DTC P0967: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B

troubleshoot.
transmission.

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 4.
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2007 Honda Accord
and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 5
NO - Go to step 7.
5. Command the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B at 0.2 A in Clutch
YES - Go to step 7.
step 4 and recheck.
8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector.
9. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the
solenoid connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 144: Measuring A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B

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2007 Honda Accord

10. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B

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2007 Honda Accord
Solenoid Valve B Connector Terminal No. 2 And Body Ground


solenoid valve B and ground (G151), or repair poor ground (G151), then
go to step 11.
gears.
pressure control solenoid valve B and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 16.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and PCM,
TESTING .
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2007 Honda Accord
gears.
pressure control solenoid valve B and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 20.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and PCM.
DTC P0970: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 4.
and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS.

YES - Go to step 5
NO - Go to step 7.
5. Command the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C at 1.0 A in Clutch
YES - Go to step 7.
valve C and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to
step 4 and recheck.
8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
9. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the
solenoid connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 146: Measuring A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C


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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (see A/T
CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C
10. Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C

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2007 Honda Accord
Solenoid Valve C Connector Terminal No. 2 And Body Ground


solenoid valve C and ground (G101), or repair poor ground (G101), then
go to step 14.
12. Measure the voltage between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
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2007 Honda Accord

Solenoid Valve C Connector Terminals No. 1 And No. 2

C22 and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, then go to step 14.
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

pressure control solenoid valve C and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 19.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C and PCM,
TESTING .
gears.
pressure control solenoid valve C and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 23.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C and PCM.
DTC P0971: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C

Troubleshooting Information, refer toGENERAL
troubleshoot.
transmission.

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 4.
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2007 Honda Accord
and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 5
NO - Go to step 7.
5. Command the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C at 0.2 A in Clutch
YES - Go to step 7.
valve C and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to
step 4 and recheck.
8. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
solenoid connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 150: Measuring A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C

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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (see A/T

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2007 Honda Accord
Solenoid Valve A Connector Terminal No.2 And Body Ground


solenoid valve C and ground (G151), or repair poor ground (G151), then
go to step 11.
gears.
pressure control solenoid valve C and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 16.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C and PCM,
TESTING .
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2007 Honda Accord
gears.
pressure control solenoid valve C and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 20.

terminals between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C and PCM.
DTC P0973: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.
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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift
solenoid valve A with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
6. Test drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D position through all five
gears.
YES - Go to step 8.
BLU/YEL wire for an intermittent short to ground between shift solenoid
step 5 and recheck.
10. Disconnect PCM connectors B (24P), C (22P), and E (31P).
11. Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals C1 and E3.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 152: Measuring Resistance Between PCM Connector Terminals C1

And E3
Is there less than 12 ohms ?

NO - Go to step 23.
12. Disconnect shift solenoid valve A connector.
13. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals C1 and E3.
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

terminal C1 and shift solenoid valve A, then go to step 17.
NO - Go to step 14.
14. Measure shift solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 154: Measuring Shift Solenoid Valve A Resistance At Solenoid Valve

Connector
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

YES - Check for intermittent short to body ground in the wire between
shift solenoid valve A and PCM, then return to step 1 and recheck.
NO - Go to step 22.

NO - If screen indicates FAILED, check intermittent short to body ground
in the wire between shift solenoid valve A and PCM, then return to step 1
and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 20.
TESTING .
gears.

shift solenoid valve A and PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a
step 1.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 26.

ground in the wire between shift solenoid valve A and PCM. If the PCM
DTC P0974: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

gears.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 5.
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2007 Honda Accord
5. Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift
solenoid valve A with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
gears.
YES - Go to step 8.
connections or loose terminals at shift solenoid valve A and PCM. If the
tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
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2007 Honda Accord

and E3

NO - Go to step 12.
13. Measure shift solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 157: Measuring Shift Solenoid Valve A Resistance At Solenoid Valve

Connector
14. Check for continuity between shift solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1
and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 158: Checking Continuity Between Shift Solenoid Valve A Connector

shift solenoid valve A, then go to step 15.
NO - Repair open in the wire between shift solenoid valve A and ground
(G151), or repair poor ground (G151) then go to step 15.
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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

shift solenoid valve A and PCM, then return to step 1 and recheck.
NO - Go to step 20.

in the wire between shift solenoid valve A and PCM, then return to step 1
TESTING .
gears.

shift solenoid valve A and PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a
step 1.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 24.

ground in the wire between shift solenoid valve A and PCM. If the PCM
DTC P0976: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

gears.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 5.
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2007 Honda Accord
5. Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift
solenoid valve B with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
gears.
YES - Go to step 7.
GRN/WHT wire for an intermittent short to ground between shift solenoid
step 5 and recheck.
10. Disconnect PCM connectors B (24P), (22P), and E (31P).
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3
Is there less than 12 ohms?

NO - Go to step 23.
12. Disconnect shift solenoid valve B connector.
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2007 Honda Accord

and E3
terminal C8 and shift solenoid valve B, then go to step 17.
NO - Go to step 14.
14. Measure shift solenoid valve B resistance at the solenoid valve connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 161: Measuring Shift Solenoid Valve B Resistance At Solenoid Valve

Connector
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3
YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal

E10. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest
AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING ), then recheck. If the
original PCM.
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2007 Honda Accord
gears.
shift solenoid valve B and PCM, then return to step 1 and recheck.
NO - Go to step 22.

in the wire between shift solenoid valve B and PCM, then return to step 1
TESTING .
gears.
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2007 Honda Accord
shift solenoid valve B and PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a
step 1.
NO - Go to step 26.
ground in the wire between shift solenoid valve B and PCM. If the PCM
DTC P0977: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

gears.
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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift
solenoid valve B with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
gears.
YES - Go to step 8.
connections or loose terminals at shift solenoid valve B and PCM. If the
9. Jump the SCS line with HDS.
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2007 Honda Accord

and E3
NO - Go to step 12.
13. Measure shift solenoid valve B resistance at the solenoid valve connector.
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Fig. 164: Measuring Shift Solenoid Valve B Resistance At Solenoid Valve

Connector
14. Check for continuity between shift solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1
and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 165: Checking Continuity Between Shift Solenoid Valve B Connector

shift solenoid valve B, then go to step 15.
NO - Repair open in the wire between shift solenoid valve B and ground
(G151), or repair poor ground (G151), then go to step 15.
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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

NO - Go to step 22.

terminals between shift solenoid valve B and PCM, then return to step 1
TESTING .
gears.

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between shift
solenoid valve B and PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-
1.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 24.

terminals between shift solenoid valve B and PCM. If the PCM was
substituted, return to step 1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT
DTC P0979: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

gears.
4. Check for DTCs using the HDS.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 5.
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2007 Honda Accord
5. Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift
solenoid valve C with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
gears.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check the GRN
wire for an intermittent short to ground between shift solenoid valve C and
PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and
recheck.
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

NO - Go to step 23.
12. Disconnect shift solenoid valve C connector.
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

terminal C16 and the shift solenoid valve C, then go to step 17.
NO - Go to step 14.
14. Measure shift solenoid valve C resistance at the solenoid valve connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 168: Measuring Shift Solenoid Valve C Resistance At Solenoid Valve

Connector
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

NO - Go to step 22.

in the wire between shift solenoid valve C and PCM, then return to step 1
TESTING .
gears.

shift solenoid valve C and PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a
step 1.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 26.

ground in the wire between shift solenoid valve C and PCM. If the PCM
DTC P0980: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

gears.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 5.
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2007 Honda Accord
5. Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift
solenoid valve C with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 8.
gears.
7. Monitor the OBD status for P0980 in the DTCs Menu using the HDS.
YES - Go to step 8.
connections or loose terminals at shift solenoid valve C and PCM. If the
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

NO - Go to step 12.
13. Measure shift solenoid valve C resistance at the solenoid valve connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 171: Measuring Shift Solenoid Valve C Resistance At The Solenoid

Valve Connector
14. Check for continuity between shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1
and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 172: Checking Continuity Between Shift Solenoid Valve C Connector

shift solenoid valve C, then go to step 14.
NO - Repair open in the wire between shift solenoid valve C and ground
(G151), or repair poor ground (G151), then go to step 15.
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2007 Honda Accord

gears.

solenoid valve C and PCM, then return to step 1 and recheck.
NO - Go to step 20.

terminals between shift solenoid valve C and PCM, then return to step 1
TESTING .
gears.

solenoid valve C and PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-
1.
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 24.

terminals between shift solenoid valve C and PCM. If the PCM was
DTC P2769: Short in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

fan comes on).
gears.
5. Check for DTCs with HDS.
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 4.
6. Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the torque
converter clutch solenoid valve with the HDS.

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 10.
fan comes on).
gears.

NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check the YEL
wire for an intermittent short to ground between torque converter clutch
solenoid valve and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED,
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

NO - Go to step 26.
14. Disconnect torque converter clutch solenoid valve connector.
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

terminal C6 and torque converter clutch solenoid valve, then go to step 19.
NO - Go to step 16.
16. Measure torque converter clutch solenoid valve resistance at the solenoid valve
connector.
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Fig. 175: Measuring Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Resistance

At Solenoid Valve Connector
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2007 Honda Accord

then go to step 19.

And E3

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22. Start the engine, and warm it to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan
comes on).
gears.
torque converter clutch solenoid valve and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 25.

in the wire between torque converter clutch solenoid valve and PCM, then
return to step 1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED,
go to step 23.
TESTING .
gears.
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2007 Honda Accord

torque converter clutch solenoid valve and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 29.

ground in the wire between torque converter clutch solenoid valve and
PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, refer to
PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING , then go to
step 27. If the PCM was substituted, return to step 1 and recheck. If the
screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 27.
DTC P2770: Open in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit

troubleshoot.
transmission.

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2007 Honda Accord
fan comes on).
gears.

NO - Go to step 6.
6. Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the torque
converter clutch solenoid valve with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 10.
fan comes on).
gears.

connections or loose terminals at torque converter clutch solenoid valve
and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 8 and
recheck.
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2007 Honda Accord

And E3

NO - Go to step 14.
connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 178: Measuring Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Resistance

At Solenoid Valve Connector

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2007 Honda Accord

then go to step 17.
16. Check for continuity between torque converter clutch solenoid valve connector
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 179: Checking Continuity Between Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid

Valve Connector Terminal No. 1 And Body Ground
torque converter clutch solenoid valve, then go to step 17.
NO - Repair open in the wire between torque converter clutch solenoid
valve and ground (G151), or repair poor ground (G151), then go to step
17.
20. Start the engine, and warm it to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan
comes on).
gears.
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between torque

converter clutch solenoid valve and PCM, then return to step 1 and
recheck.
NO - Go to step 20.

terminals between torque converter clutch solenoid valve and PCM, then
return to step 1 and recheck. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED,
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2007 Honda Accord
go to step 21.
TESTING .
gears.

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals between torque
converter clutch solenoid valve and PCM. If the PCM was updated,
NO - Go to step 27.

terminals between shift solenoid valve C and PCM. If the PCM was
ROAD TEST
on).
2. Apply the parking brake, and block both rear wheels. Start the engine, then
shift to the D position while pressing the brake pedal. Press the accelerator
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2007 Honda Accord
pedal, and release it suddenly. The engine should not stall.

3. Repeat step 2 in the D3 position.
4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A), and go to the A/T data list.

5. Test-drive the vehicle on a flat road in the D position. Check for abnormal
noise and clutch slippage. While driving, check that the shift points occur at the
proper speeds by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor voltage with
the HDS and comparing your shift point speeds and voltage to those in the
table. (The accelerator pedal position sensor voltage represents the throttle
opening.)
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2007 Honda Accord
UPSHIFT: D POSITION
Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage: 1.02 V
1st --> 2nd 9-12 mph (14-19 km/h)
2nd --> 3rd 19-22 mph (30-35 km/h)
3rd --> 4th 30-34 mph (48-54 km/h)
4th --> 5th 45-50 mph (73-81 km/h)
Lock-up ON 41-48 mph (66-78 km/h)
1st --> 2nd 23-27 mph (37-44 km/h)
2nd --> 3rd 42-47 mph (67-75 km/h)
3rd --> 4th 63-69 mph (101-111 km/h)
4th --> 5th 90-100 mph (145-161 km/h)
Lock-up ON 91-101 mph (147-163 km/h)
Fully-opened throttle Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage: 4.65 V
1st --> 2nd 35-40 mph (57-65 km/h)
2nd --> 3rd 60-68 mph (96-109 km/h)
3rd --> 4th 94-105 mph (151-169 km/h)
4th --> 5th -
Lock-up ON 122-134 mph (196-216 km/h)
DOWNSHIFT: D POSITION
Lock-up OFF 40-47 mph (65-75 km/h)
5th --> 4th 29-34 mph (46-54 km/h)
4th --> 3rd 17-19 mph (27-31 km/h)
3rd --> 1st 6-9 mph (10-15 km/h)
Fully-opened throttle Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage: 4.65 V
5th --> 4th 134-146 mph (215-235 km/h)
4th --> 3rd 83-93 mph (134-150 km/h)
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2007 Honda Accord
3rd --> 2nd 52-58 mph (84-93 km/h)

2nd --> 1st 27-30 mph (43-49 km/h)
6. Accelerate to about 35 mph (57 km/h) so the transmission is in 4th or 5th, then
shift from the D position to the 2 position. The vehicle should immediately
begin slowing down from engine braking.
7. Check for abnormal noise and clutch slippage in the following positions.
1 (1st Gear) Position
Accelerate from a stop at full throttle. Check that there is no abnormal
noise or clutch slippage. Upshifts should not occur with the shift lever in
this position.
2 (2nd Gear) Position
Accelerate from a stop at full throttle. Check that there is no abnormal
noise or clutch slippage. Upshifts and downshifts should not occur with
the shift lever in this position.
R (Reverse) Position
Accelerate from a stop at full throttle, and check for abnormal noise and
clutch slippage.
8. Test in P (Park) Position.
Park the vehicle on a slope (about 16), apply the brake, and shift into the P
position. Release the brake; the vehicle should not move.
NOTE: Always use the brake to hold the vehicle, when stopped
on an incline in gear. Depending on the grade of the
incline, the vehicle could roll backwards if the brake is
released.
STALL SPEED TEST
1. Make sure the transmission fluid is filled to the proper level (see ATF LEVEL
CHECK).
2. Apply the parking brake, and block all four wheels.
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A), and go to the A/T data list .
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4. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF.

5. After the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (the radiator
fan comes on), shift to the 2 position.
6. Firmly press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal for 6 to 8 seconds, and note
the engine speed. Do not move the shift lever while raising the engine speed.
7. Allow 2 minutes for cooling, then repeat the test in the D, 1, and R positions.
NOTE: Do not test stall speed for more than 10 seconds at

a time.
Stall speed tests should be used for diagnostic
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2007 Honda Accord
purposes only.
Stall speed should be the same in D, 2,1, and R
positions.
Do not test stall speed with the A/T pressure
gauges installed.
Stall Speed rpm:
Specification: 2,000 rpm

Service Limit: 1,850-2,150 rpm
8. If the measurements are out of the service limit, problems and probable causes
are listed in the table.
STALL SPEED RPM SPECIFICATIONS

Problem Probable causes
ATF pump output low
Stall speed rpm high in the D, 2, 1, Clogged ATF strainer

and R positions Regulator valve stuck
Slipping clutch
Stall speed rpm high in the 1 Slippage of 1st clutch or 1st gear one-way
position clutch defective
Stall speed rpm high in the 2
Slippage of 2nd clutch
position
Stall speed rpm high in the R
Slippage of 5th clutch
position
Engine output low
Stall speed low in the D, 2, 1, and R Engine throttle valve closed

positions Torque converter one-way clutch
slipping
PRESSURE TEST

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2007 Honda Accord
A/T clutch pressure gauge set 07406-0020400 or 07406-0020401

A/T pressure hose, 2,210 mm 07MAJ-PY4011A
A/T pressure hose adapter 07MAJ-PY40120
1. Make sure the transmission fluid is filled to the proper level (see ATF LEVEL
CHECK).
2. Lift the vehicle up on a hoist or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and
raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported.
3. Remove the splash shield.
4. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely.
5. Connect the oil pressure gauges to the line pressure inspection port (A), 2nd
clutch pressure inspection port (B), and 1st-hold clutch pressure inspection port
(C). Do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the holes while
connecting the gauges.
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Fig. 182: Connecting Oil Pressure Gauges To Line Pressure Inspection

Port
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2007 Honda Accord
6. Connect the oil pressure gauges to the 3rd clutch pressure inspection port (D),
4th clutch pressure inspection port (E), and 5th clutch pressure inspection port
(F).
Fig. 183: Connecting Oil Pressure Gauges To 3rd Clutch Pressure

Inspection Port
7. Connect the oil pressure gauge to the 1st clutch pressure inspection port (G).
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Fig. 184: Connecting Oil Pressure Gauge To 1st Clutch Pressure

Inspection Port
8. Warm up the engine (the radiator fan comes on), then stop it and connect the
HDS to the DLC.
9. Start the engine, and run it at 2,000 rpm in the P or N position.
10. Measure the line pressure at the line pressure inspection port (A).
NOTE: Higher pressure may be indicated if measurements are

made in shift lever position other than N or P.
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FLUID PRESSURE
Fluid Pressure
Pressure
Standard Service Limit
900-960 kPa (9.2-9.8 kgf/cm2, 130-140 850 kPa (8.7 kgf/cm2, 120
Line (A)
psi) psi)
11. Shift to the 1 position, and measure the 1st clutch pressure at the 1st clutch
pressure inspection port (G) and 1st-hold clutch pressure at the 1st-hold clutch
pressure inspection port (C).
12. Shift to the 2 position, and measure the 2nd clutch pressure at the 2nd clutch
pressure inspection port (B).
13. Shift to the P position, then press the brake pedal and hold it.
14. Shift to the D3 position, press the accelerator pedal to increase the engine
speed to 2,500 rpm; the transmission shifts into 2nd gear.
15. Release the accelerator pedal; the engine speed decreases to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2nd gear.
16. Press the accelerator pedal very slowly so that the engine speed increases to
2,000 rpm on 5 seconds, then hold the accelerator; the transmission shifts into
3rd gear. Measure the 3rd clutch pressure at the 3rd clutch pressure inspection
port (D) while holding the engine speed at 2,000 rpm.
17. Shift to the D position, and measure the 4th clutch pressure at the 4th clutch
pressure inspection port (E) while holding the engine speed at 2,000 rpm, then
in about 15 seconds, the transmission will shift to 5th gear.
18. Measure the 5th clutch pressure at the 5th clutch pressure inspection port (F)
while holding the engine speed 2,000 rpm.
19. Bring the engine back to an idle, then apply the brake to stop the wheels from
rotating.
20. Shift to the R position. Raise the engine rpm to 2,000 rpm, and measure the
reverse clutch pressure at the 5th clutch pressure inspection port (F).
FLUID PRESSURE (R POSITION)

Fluid Pressure
Pressure
Standard Service Limit
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2007 Honda Accord
1st-hold clutch 760-830 kPa (7.7-8.5 kgf/cm2, 710 kPa (7.2 kgf/cm2,
(C) 110-120 psi) 100 psi)
1st clutch (G)
2nd clutch (B)
890-970 kPa (9.1-9.9 kgf/cm2, 840 kPa (8.6 kgf/cm2,
3rd clutch (D)
130-140 psi) 120 psi)
4th clutch (E)
5th clutch (F)
21. If the measurements are out of service limit, problems and probable causes are
listed in the table.
OUT OF SERVICE LIMIT

Problem Probable causes
Torque converter
ATF pump
No or low line pressure Regulator valve
Torque converter check

valve
1st clutch
No or low 1st clutch pressure
O-rings
2nd clutch
No or low 2nd clutch pressure
O-rings
3rd clutch
No or low 3rd clutch pressure
O-rings
4th clutch
No or low 4th clutch pressure
O-rings
5th clutch
No or low 5th clutch pressure
O-rings
No or low 5th clutch pressure in the R

position Servo valve
5th clutch
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2007 Honda Accord
O-rings
22. Install the sealing bolts with the new sealing washers, and tighten the bolts to
the specified torque. Do not reuse old sealing washers.
Torque: 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m,13 lbf.ft)
23. Install the splash shield.

SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A TEST
Fig. 185: Connect HDS To DLC

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2007 Honda Accord
2. Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS.

3. Check that the shift solenoid valve A operates with the HDS. A clicking sound
should be heard.
If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK.
If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 4.
4. Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio
presets.
5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive
cable from the battery.
6. Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery cover, battery,
and battery tray.
7. Remove the intake air duct and air cleaner housing.
8. Loosen the two bolts securing the battery base from under the vehicle, and
remove the two bolts securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then
remove the battery base.
9. Remove the starter.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 186: Disconnecting Shift Solenoid Valve A Connector

11. Measure shift solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve connector
terminals.
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
12. Replace shift solenoid valve A if the resistance is out of standard (see SHIFT
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2007 Honda Accord
SOLENOID VALVE A REPLACEMENT).

13. If the resistance is within the standard, connect the battery negative terminal to
shift solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1, and connect the battery
positive terminal to the terminal No. 2.
If no clicking sound is heard, Replace the shift solenoid valve A (see

SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A REPLACEMENT).
14. Install the starter.
15. Install the battery base, then install the air cleaner housing and intake air duct.
16. Install the battery tray, battery, and battery cover, then secure the battery with
its hold-down bracket.
17. Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble
them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
18. Enter the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, then enter the presets, and set
the clock.
19. Do the power window control unit reset procedure, refer to RESETTING
THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT .
SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A REPLACEMENT
presets.
and battery tray.
6. Remove the starter.
7. Disconnect shift solenoid valve A connector, and remove shift solenoid valve
A.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 187: Removing Shift Solenoid Valve A

8. Install a new shift solenoid valve A with new O-rings (B). While installing the
solenoid valve, do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the
transmission.
9. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector.
10. Install the starter.
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2007 Honda Accord
the clock.
SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE B TEST

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2007 Honda Accord

2. Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS.
3. Check that the shift solenoid valve B operates with the HDS. A clicking sound
should be heard.

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 189: Disconnecting Shift Solenoid Valve B Connector

6. Measure shift solenoid valve B resistance at the solenoid valve connector

terminals.
Standard: 12-25 ohms
7. Replace shift solenoid valve B if the resistance is out of standard (see SHIFT
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2007 Honda Accord
SOLENOID VALVE B REPLACEMENT).

shift solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1, and connect the battery
If no clicking sound is heard, Replace the shift solenoid valve B (see

SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE B REPLACEMENT).
9. Install the air cleaner housing and intake air duct.
SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE B REPLACEMENT

2. Disconnect shift solenoid valve B connector, and remove shift solenoid valve
B.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 190: Removing Shift Solenoid Valve B

3. Install a new shift solenoid valve B with new O-rings (A). While installing the
transmission.
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SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C TEST

2. Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS.

3. Check that the shift solenoid valve C operates with the HDS. A clicking sound
should be heard.
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2007 Honda Accord
presets.
and battery tray.
Fig. 192: Disconnecting Shift Solenoid Valve C Connector

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2007 Honda Accord

10. Measure shift solenoid valve C resistance at the solenoid valve connector
terminals.
11. Replace shift solenoid valve C if the resistance is out of standard (see SHIFT
SOLENOID VALVE C REPLACEMENT).
shift solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1, and connect the battery
If no clicking sound is heard, Replace the shift solenoid valve C (see

SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C REPLACEMENT).
the clock.
SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE C REPLACEMENT
presets.
and battery tray.
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6. Disconnect shift solenoid valve C connector, and remove shift solenoid valve
C.
Fig. 193: Removing Shift Solenoid Valve C

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7. Install a new shift solenoid valve C with new O-rings (A). While installing the
transmission.
the clock.
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST
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2. Choose Lock up Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS.

3. Check that the torque converter clutch solenoid valve operates with the HDS.
A clicking sound should be heard.

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Fig. 195: Disconnecting Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve

Connector
connector terminals.
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7. Replace torque converter clutch solenoid valve if no resistance is out of

standard (see TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE
REPLACEMENT).
torque converter clutch solenoid valve connector terminal No. 1, and connect
the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 2.
If no clicking sound is heard, Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid

valve (see TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE
REPLACEMENT).
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE REPLACEMENT

2. Disconnect torque converter clutch solenoid valve connector, and remove
torque converter clutch solenoid valve (A).
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Fig. 196: Removing Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve

3. Install a new torque converter clutch solenoid valve with new O-rings (B).
While installing the solenoid valve, do not allow dust or other foreign particles
to enter the transmission.
4. Check connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector.
A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST
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2. Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A and B in Miscellaneous
Test Menu on the HDS.
3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B with the HDS.
4. Follow instructions on the HDS.
If the test results are OK, the valves are OK.
If the test results are not OK, go to step 5.
presets.
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and battery tray.
10. Disconnect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector and
solenoid valve B connector.
Fig. 198: Disconnecting A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A

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And B Connector
11. Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B resistances at
each solenoid valve connector.
Standard: 3-10 ohms

12. If the resistance of either solenoid valve is out of standard, replace A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve A and B (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE
CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT).
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B connector terminal No. 2,
and connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 1.
If a clicking sound is heard, go to step 24.
If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 14 and remove A/T clutch

pressure control solenoid valve.
14. Remove the transmission upper mount bracket (A) and bracket plate (B).
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Fig. 199: Removing Transmission Upper Mount Bracket & Bracket Plate
15. Remove the harness clamp (C) from the clamp bracket (D), and remove A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B.
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Fig. 200: Removing Harness Clamp From Clamp Bracket

16. Remove the O-rings (E), 8 x 18 mm ATF feed pipes (F), gasket (G), and 8 x 40
mm ATF feed pipe (H).
17. Connect the battery negative terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A and B connector terminal No. 2, and connect the battery positive
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terminal to the terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A and B move.
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Fig. 201: Connecting Battery Terminal To A/T Clutch Pressure Control

Solenoid Valve A And B Connector Terminal No. 2
18. Disconnect one of the battery terminals and check valve movement at the fluid
passage in valve body mounting surface.
19. If either valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not
operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B (see A/T
REPLACEMENT).
20. Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for
dust and dirt, and clean the passage if necessary.
21. Place a new gasket on the transmission housing, then install the 8 x 18 mm
ATF feed pipes with their filter side into the transmission housing.
22. Install new O-rings over the feed pipes, and install the 8 x 40 mm ATF feed
pipe.
23. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B, and
harness clamp.
24. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B connectors for
rust, dirt, or oil, then connect them securely.
25. Install the transmission upper mount bracket and bracket plate.
the clock.
A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT
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presets.
and battery tray.
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Fig. 202: Removing Transmission Upper Mount Bracket And Bracket

Plate
7. Remove the harness clamp (C) from the clamp bracket (D), and disconnect A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B connectors.
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Fig. 203: Removing Harness Clamp From Clamp Bracket

8. Remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B, O-rings (E), 8 x 8
mm ATF feed pipes (F), gasket (G), and 8 x 40 mm ATF feed pipe (H).
9. Place a new gasket on the transmission housing, then install the 8 x 18 mm
ATF feed pipes with their filter side into the transmission housing.
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10. Install new O-rings over the feed pipes, and install the 8 x 40 mm ATF feed
pipe.
11. Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B, and
harness clamp.
12. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B connectors for
rust, dirt, or oil, then connect them securely.
13. Install the transmission upper mount bracket and bracket plate.
the clock.
A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST
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Fig. 204: Connect HDS To DLC

2. Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test

Menu on the HDS.
3. Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid C with the HDS.
4. Follow instructions on the HDS.
If the test result is OK, the valve is OK.
If the test result is not OK, go to step 5.
presets.
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and battery tray.
10. Disconnect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
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Fig. 205: Disconnecting A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C

Connector
solenoid valve connector.
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Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
12. If the resistance of the solenoid valve is out of standard, Replace the A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve C (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE
CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C REPLACEMENT).
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 2, and
connect the battery positive terminal to the terminal No. 1.
If a clicking sound is heard, go to step 22.
If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 14 and remove A/T clutch

pressure control solenoid valve.
14. Remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
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Fig. 206: Removing A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C

15. Remove the gasket (A) and 8 x 12 mm ATF feed pipe (B).
16. Connect the battery negative terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C connector terminal No. 2, and connect the battery positive terminal to
the terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
moves.
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Fig. 207: Connecting Battery Negative Terminal To A/T Clutch Pressure

Control Solenoid Valve C Connector Terminal No. 2
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17. Disconnect one of the battery terminals and check valve movement at the fluid
passage in valve body mounting surface.
18. If the valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not
operate, Replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (see A/T
REPLACEMENT).
20. Install the 8 x 12 mm ATF feed pipe with its filter side into the transmission
housing.
21. Install the new gasket in the mounting groove of the A/T clutch pressure
control solenoid valve C body properly, then install A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve C on the transmission housing. Do not pinch the gasket.
22. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector for rust, dirt,
or oil, then connect it securely.
the clock.
A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C REPLACEMENT
presets.
and battery tray.
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6. Disconnect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
7. Remove A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
Fig. 208: Removing A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C

8. Remove the gasket (A) and 8 x 12 mm ATF feed pipe (B).

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10. Install the 8 x 12 mm ATF feed pipe with its filter side into the transmission
housing.
11. Install the new gasket in the mounting groove of the A/T clutch pressure
control solenoid valve C body properly, then install A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve C on the transmission housing. Do not pinch the gasket.
12. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector for rust, dirt,
or oil, then connect it securely.
the clock.
INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT
presets.
and battery tray.
5. Disconnect input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
6. Remove the bolt securing the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then
remove the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (A) from the end cover.
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Fig. 209: Removing Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor

7. Install the new O-ring (B) on the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then
install the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor in the end cover. Do not allow
dust or foreign particles to enter the transmission.
8. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely.
9. Install the battery base and battery, then connect the battery terminals.
the clock.
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OUTPUT SHAFT (COUNTERSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT
presets.
3. Unbolt the under-hood fuse/relay box.
4. Reposition the under-hood fuse/relay box to gain access to the output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor.
and battery tray.
7. Disconnect output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.
8. Remove the bolt securing the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (A) from
the transmission housing.
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Fig. 210: Removing Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Bolt

9. Install the new O-ring (B) on the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then
install the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor in the transmission housing.
Do not allow dust or foreign particles to enter the transmission.
10. Check for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely.
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the clock.
3RD CLUTCH TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT
3. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector (A).
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Fig. 211: Disconnecting ATF Temperature Sensor Connector

4. Remove ATF temperature sensor harness clamp bolt (B).

5. Disconnect the connector from the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure
switch (C).
6. Replace the switch, then install a new one with a new sealing washer (D).
Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part.
7. Check the connector for water, oil, dust, or other particles inside it, and connect
the connector securely.
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8. Install ATF temperature sensor harness clamp bolt, and connect the ATF
temperature sensor connector.
4TH CLUTCH TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT
presets.
and battery tray.
5. Disconnect the connector from the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure
switch (A).
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Fig. 212: Disconnecting Connector From 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid

Pressure Switch
6. Replace the switch, then install a new one with a new sealing washer (B).
Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part.
7. Check the connector for water, oil, dust, or other particles inside it, and connect
the connector securely.
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the clock.
ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT
presets.
4. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
Then reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
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Fig. 213: Removing Drain Plug

and battery tray.
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Plate
10. Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and remove the
transmission lower mount nuts.
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Fig. 215: Removing Transmission Lower Mount Nuts

11. Lift the transmission up to create clearance between the transmission and front
subframe with the jack.
12. Remove the transmission lower front mount.
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Fig. 216: Removing Transmission Lower Front Mount

13. Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector (A).
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Fig. 217: Disconnecting ATF Temperature Sensor Connector

14. Remove ATF temperature sensor harness clamp bolt (B), then remove the
sensor.
15. Install the new O-ring (C) on the new ATF temperature sensor (D), then install
the sensor.
16. Secure the ATF temperature sensor harness clamp (E) with the bolts.
17. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely.
18. Install the transmission lower front mount.
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19. Install the transmission lower mount nuts.

20. Install the transmission upper mount bracket, bracket plate, and remove the
transmission jack.
21. Refill the transmission with ATF (see step 5 in ATF Replacement ).
the clock.
ATF LEVEL CHECK
NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission.
on).
2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off.
NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds after turning
the engine off.
3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) from the ATF dipstick guide pipe, and wipe
it with a clean cloth.
4. For 2003 model: Insert the dipstick (A) back with pointing the arrow (B) on the
cap (C) to the front of the vehicle.
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Fig. 218: Inserting Dipstick Back Pointing Arrow On Cap To Front Of

Vehicle (2003 Model)
5. For 2004-2007 models: Insert the dipstick (A) back with pointing the arrow (B)
on the cap (C) to the front of the vehicle, and aligning the notch on the cap
with the guide tab (D).
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Fig. 219: Inserting Dipstick Back Pointing Arrow On Cap To Front Of

Vehicle (2004-06 Models)
6. Remove the dipstick (A) and check the fluid level. It should be between upper
mark (B) and lower mark (C).
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Fig. 220: Removing Dipstick And Checking Fluid Level

7. If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission,
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hose and line joints.

If a problem is found, fix it before filling the transmission.
If the level is above the upper mark, drain the ATF to proper level (see step 3
in ATF Replacement ).
8. If necessary fill the transmission through the dipstick guide pipe opening (A) to
bring the fluid level up to the upper mark. Always use Honda ATF-Z1
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift
quality.
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Fig. 221: Filling Transmission Through Dipstick Guide Pipe Opening To

Bring Fluid Level Up To Upper Mark
9. Insert the dipstick back into the dipstick guide pipe.
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ATF REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Keep all foreign particles out of-the transmission.
1. Bring the transmission up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan

comes on).
2. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off.

4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).

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5. Refill transmission with the recommended fluid into the filler hole (A) to the
upper mark on the dipstick. Always use Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic
Transmission Fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality.
Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity:

3.0 L (3.2 US qt) at change
7.0 L (7.4 US qt) at overhaul
6. Install the ATF filler bolt (B) with a new sealing washer (C).
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Fig. 223: Installing ATF Filler Bolt With New Sealing Washer
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
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Engine support hanger, A and Reds AAR-T-12566

Engine hanger balancer bar VSB02C000019
Front subframe adapter VSB02C000016
These special tools are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
1-888-424-6857.
NOTE: Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.

Special tool Reds engine support hanger AAR-T-12566
must be used with the side engine mount installed.
presets.
2. Set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
3. Lock the steering wheel.
4. Drain the power steering system fluid from the reservoir (see PUMP
REPLACEMENT ).
5. Remove the steering joint cover (A).
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Fig. 224: Removing Steering Joint Cover

6. Make a reference mark (B) across the steering joint and steering gearbox
pinion shaft. Remove the steering joint bolt (C), and disconnect the steering
joint (D) by removing the steering joint toward the steering column. Hold the
slider shaft (E) on the column with a peace of wire (F) between the joint yoke
(G) on the slider shaft to the joint yoke on the upper shaft, refer to step 8 in
STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
7. Remove the bolts securing the support strut brackets on the both side hood.
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Secure the hood (A) in a vertical position, then install the right strut bracket (B)
by turning it over with its bolt in lower position.
NOTE: Do not attempt to close the hood with the support strut
in the vertical position; it will damage the support strut
and hood.
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Fig. 225: Securing Hood In Vertical Position

8. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is supported securely.

10. Remove the power steering pump outlet line (A) from the power steering
pump. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
Fig. 226: Removing Power Steering Pump Outlet Line

11. Remove the hose (B) from its clamp (C).
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13. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
and battery tray.
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18. Remove the starter cables (A) from the starter (B), then remove the starter.
Fig. 228: Removing Starter Cables

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Plate
20. Remove the transmission sub harness connector (A) from its bracket (B), then
disconnect it.
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Fig. 230: Removing Transmission Sub Harness Connector From Bracket

(B)
21. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (C) and 4th
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (D), and disconnect the
vacuum hose (E) from the vacuum line (F).
22. Disconnect shift solenoid valve A connector, solenoid valve C connector, and
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (B), and remove the
harness clamps (D) from the clamp brackets (E).
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Fig. 231: Disconnecting Shift Solenoid Valve A Connector

23. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, and
solenoid valve B connector, and remove the harness clamp (C) from the clamp
bracket (D).
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Fig. 232: Disconnecting A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A

Connector
24. Disconnect the connectors from the torque converter clutch solenoid valve (A)
and shift solenoid valve B.
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Fig. 233: Disconnecting Connectors From Torque Converter Clutch

Solenoid Valve And Shift Solenoid Valve B
25. Remove the transmission range switch connector (A) from its bracket (B), and
disconnect it.
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Fig. 234: Removing Transmission Range Switch Connector

26. Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (C), and
remove the harness clamps (D) from the brackets. Disconnect the vacuum hose
(E) from the vacuum line (F).
27. Remove the harness clamps (A) from the brackets, and remove the bolt
securing the bracket.
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Fig. 235: Removing Harness Clamps From Brackets

28. Remove the transmission ground cable (A), and disconnect the breather tube
(B).
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Fig. 236: Removing Transmission Ground Cable

29. Put a shop rags around the ATF warmer (C) to remove the ATF that flows out.
30. Remove the bolts securing the ATF warmer and the bracket (D), then remove
the ATF warmer from the transmission housing. Cover the fluid passages on
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the transmission and ATF warmer with tape. Do not disconnect the hoses.
NOTE: Replace the ATF warmer with a new one whenever the
transmission assembly is replaced.
31. Remove the connector bracket from the engine front cylinder head; use the
bracket bolt hole to attach engine balancer bar front arm.
Fig. 237: Removing Connector Bracket From Engine Front Cylinder Head
32. Remove the harness clamp bracket from the engine rear cylinder head; use the
bracket bolt hole to attach engine balancer bar rear arm.
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Fig. 238: Remove Harness Clamp Bracket From Engine Rear Cylinder
Head
33. Remove the front bulkhead cover, refer to step 1 in FRONT GRILLE
REPLACEMENT .
34. Lift and support the engine with engine support hanger (A) and engine balance
bar (B). Attach the front arm (C) to the front cylinder head with a spacer (D)
and the 10 x 1.25 mm bolt (E). Attach the rear arm (F) to the rear cylinder head
with the 8 x 1.25 mm bolt (G).
Fig. 239: Lifting And Supporting Engine With Engine Support Hanger &
Engine Balance Bar
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35. Remove the front mount stop (A), and remove the front mount bolt (B).
Fig. 240: Removing Front Mount Stop And Front Mount Bolt
36. Remove the rear mount stop (A), and remove the rear mount bolt (B).
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Fig. 241: Removing Rear Mount Stop And Rear Mount Bolt
37. Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench (A) in the top of the ball joint pin (B), and remove
the nuts (C), then separate the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arms (E).
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Fig. 242: Inserting Allen Wrench To Top Of Ball Joint Pin

38. Remove the cotter pins (F), castle nuts (G), damper pinch bolt (H), self-locking
nut (I), bolt (J), and damper forks (K), then separate the ball joints from the
lower arms, refer to BALL JOINT REMOVAL .
39. Remove the cotter pins (L), and nuts (M), and separate the tie-rod end ball
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joints (N) from the knuckles, refer to step 10 in KNUCKLE/HUB

REPLACEMENT .
40. Remove the exhaust pipe A and its mount.
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Fig. 243: Removing Exhaust Pipe A And Mount

41. Remove the power steering fluid hose from its line on the front subframe.
Fig. 244: Removing Power Steering Fluid Hose

42. Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector.
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Fig. 245: Disconnecting Power Steering Pressure Switch Connector

43. Remove the torque converter cover (A), and remove the drive plate bolts (B)
while rotating the crankshaft pulley.
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Fig. 246: Removing Torque Converter Cover

44. Remove the engine-to-torque converter housing mounting bolts (C).
45. Remove the bolts securing shift cable holder (A), then remove shift cable cover
(B).
NOTE: To prevent damage to the control lever joint, remove

the bolts securing the holder before removing the bolts
securing the cover.
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Fig. 247: Removing Shift Cable Holder Bolts

46. Remove the lock bolt (C) securing the control lever (D), then remove the shift
cable (E) and the control lever. Do not bend the shift cable excessively.
47. Install a 6 x 1.0-14 mm bolt (A) and nut (B) on the shift cable cover (C), then
reinstall the shift cable cover to the torque converter housing. If you don't do
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this, the bolt head of the cable cover may prevent you from removing the
torque converter during transmission removal.
Fig. 248: Installing Shift Cable Cover Bolt And Nut

48. Remove the transmission lower mount nuts.
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Fig. 249: Removing Transmission Lower Mount Nuts

49. Remove both middle-mounts.
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Fig. 250: Removing Middle-Mounts

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50. Make the appropriate reference lines (A) at both ends of the subframe (B) that
line up with the edge (C) of the stiffeners (D).
Fig. 251: Making Appropriate Reference Lines At Both Ends Of Subframe

Lining Up With Edge Of Stiffeners
51. Attach the special tool to the subframe by hanging the belt of the special tool
over the front of the subframe, then secure the belt with its stop.
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Fig. 252: Attaching Special Tool To Subframe

52. Raise the jack and line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the corner
of the jack base, then attach them with bolts securely.
53. Remove the four bolts securing the stiffeners (A), and four bolts securing the
front subframe (B), and lower the front subframe.
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Fig. 253: Removing Stiffeners And Front Subframe Bolts

54. Remove the transmission lower mounts.
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Fig. 254: Removing Transmission Lower Mounts

55. Remove the driveshafts from the differential and intermediate shaft (see step
10 in DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL ).
56. Remove the exhaust manifold bracket (A) and heat shield (B).
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Fig. 255: Removing Exhaust Manifold Bracket And Heat Shield

57. Remove the intermediate shaft (C).
58. Coat all precision finished surfaces with clean engine oil, then tie plastic bags
over both ends of the driveshaft and the intermediate shaft.
59. Place a jack under the transmission.
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60. Remove the upper and front transmission housing mounting bolts.
Fig. 256: Removing Upper And Front Transmission Housing Mounting

Bolts
61. Remove the bolt (A) securing the harness clamp bracket, and remove the front
mount bracket (B).
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Fig. 257: Removing Harness Clamp Bracket Bolt And Front Mount
Bracket
62. Remove the rear transmission housing mounting bolts.
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Fig. 258: Removing Rear Transmission Housing Mounting Bolts

63. Slide the transmission away from the engine to remove it from the vehicle.
64. Remove the shift cable cover, then remove the torque converter.
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Fig. 259: Removing Shift Cable Cover

65. Remove the vacuum line from the transmission.
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Fig. 260: Removing Vacuum Line

66. Remove the 6 x 1.0-14 mm bolt and nut that you installed on the shift cable
cover in step 47.
67. Inspect the drive plate, and replace it if it's damaged.
DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Remove the transmission assembly (see TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).

2. Remove the drive plate (A) and washer (B) from the engine crankshaft.
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Fig. 261: Removing Drive Plate And Washer

3. Install the drive plate and washer on the engine crankshaft, and tighten the
eight bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or more steps.
4. Install the transmission assembly (see TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
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TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION

Engine hanger balancer bar VSB02C000019
These special tools are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
1-888-424-6857.

Replace the ATF warmer with a new one whenever the
1. Install the vacuum line on the transmission.
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Fig. 262: Installing Vacuum Line

2. Install the torque converter assembly (A) on the mainshaft (B) with the new O-
ring (C).
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Fig. 263: Installing Torque Converter Assembly On Mainshaft With New

O-Ring
3. Install the 14 x 20 mm dowel pin (D) and 10 x 20 mm dowel pin (E) in the
torque converter housing.
4. Place the transmission on the jack, and raise the transmission to the engine
level.
5. Attach the transmission to the engine, then install the rear transmission housing
mounting bolts.
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Fig. 264: Installing Rear Transmission Housing Mounting Bolts

6. Install the upper and front transmission housing mounting bolts.
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Fig. 265: Installing Upper And Front Transmission Housing Mounting

Bolts
7. Remove the jack from the transmission.

8. Install the front mount bracket with the new bolts, and install the harness clamp
on the mount bracket.
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Fig. 266: Installing Front Mount Bracket Bolts

9. Install the engine-to-torque converter housing mounting bolts.
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Fig. 267: Installing Engine-To-Torque Converter Housing Mounting Bolts

10. Attach the torque converter to the drive plate (A) with eight bolts (B). Rotate
the crankshaft pulley as necessary to tighten the bolts to 1/2 of the specified
torque, then to the final torque, in a crisscross pattern. After tightening the last
bolt, check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
11. Install the torque converter cover (C).
12. Install the new set ring (A) on the intermediate shaft (B).
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Fig. 268: Installing New Set Ring On Intermediate Shaft

13. Install the exhaust manifold bracket (C) and heat shield (D).
14. Install the new set ring on the left driveshaft, then install the left driveshaft in
the differential (see DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION ). While installing the
driveshaft in the differential, be sure not to allow dust or other foreign particles
to enter the transmission. Install the left driveshaft over the intermediate shaft.
NOTE: Clean the areas where the driveshaft and

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intermediate shaft contact the transmission

(differential) with solvent or carburetor cleaner, and
dry with compressed air.
Turn the right and left steering knuckle fully
outward, and slide the driveshaft and intermediate
shaft into the differential and intermediate shaft
until you feel its set ring engage the side gear.
15. Install the transmission lower mounts.
Fig. 269: Installing Transmission Lower Mounts

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16. Support the front subframe (A) with the special tool and a jack, and lift it up to
body.
Fig. 270: Supporting Front Subframe With Special Tool And Jack
17. Loosely install the new subframe mounting bolts (D), stiffener mounting bolts
(E), and new stiffener mounting bolts (F).
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Fig. 271: Installing Subframe Mounting Bolts

18. Loosely install both of the new middle-mount mounting bolts.
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Fig. 272: Installing Both Middle-Mount Mounting Bolts

19. Align the reference marks (A) with edge (B) of both rear stiffener (C), and
tighten the rear subframe mounting bolts, then front bolts, and tighten the
stiffener bolts to the specified torque.
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Fig. 273: Aligning Reference Marks With Edge Of Both Rear Stiffener
20. Tighten the mid-mount mounting bolts.

21. Install the transmission lower mount nuts.
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Fig. 274: Installing Transmission Lower Mount Nuts

22. Install control lever (A) on the selector control shaft (B). Do not bend the shift
cable excessively.
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Fig. 275: Installing Control Lever On Selector Control Shaft

23. Install the lock bolt (C) with a new lock washer (D), then bend the lock washer
tab against the bolt head.
24. Install the shift cable cover (E), then secure the shift cable holder (F) on the
cover with the bolts.
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NOTE: To prevent damage to the control lever joint, be sure

install the shift cable holder after installing the shift
cable cover to the torque converter housing.
25. Connect the power steering pressure switch connector.
Fig. 276: Connecting Power Steering Pressure Switch Connector

26. Connect the power steering fluid hose to the power steering line on the front
subframe.
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Fig. 277: Connecting Power Steering Fluid Hose To Power Steering Line
27. Install the exhaust pipe A with the new self-locking nuts, its mount (B), and
new gaskets (C) (D).
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Fig. 278: Installing Exhaust Pipe A With Self-Locking Nuts

28. Install the damper forks (A) with damper pinch bolts (B) and the new self-
locking nuts (C), then install the ball joints on the lower arms (D) with the
castle nuts (E) and new cotter pins (F), refer to step 17 in KNUCKLE/HUB
REPLACEMENT .
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Fig. 279: Installing Damper Forks With Damper Pinch Bolts And Self-
Locking Nuts
29. Install the tie-rod end ball joints (G) to each knuckle with the nuts (H) and new
cotter pins (I), refer to step 17 in KNUCKLE/HUB REPLACEMENT .
30. Install the stabilizer links (J) to the lower arms, and install the nuts (K). Insert a
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6 mm Allen wrench (L) in the ball joint pin (M), and tighten the nuts.
31. Install the new front mount bolt (A).
Fig. 280: Installing Front Mount Bolt

32. Install the front mount stop (B).

33. Install the new rear mount bolt (A).
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Fig. 281: Installing Rear Mount Bolt (A)

34. Install the rear mount stop (B).

35. Remove the engine hanger and engine balancer bar.
36. Install the harness clamp bracket to the engine rear cylinder head.
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Fig. 282: Installing Harness Clamp Bracket To Engine Rear Cylinder

Head
37. Install the connector bracket to the engine front cylinder head.
Fig. 283: Install Connector Bracket To Engine Front Cylinder Head

38. Install the ATF warmer (A) with new O-rings (B) and the bracket (C) on the
transmission housing. Do not pinch the O-rings.
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Fig. 284: Installing ATF Warmer With O-Rings And Bracket On

Transmission Housing
39. Install the transmission ground cable (D), and connect the breather tube (E).
40. Install the harness clamp bracket (A), and install the harness cover (B) on the
bracket (C).
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Fig. 285: Installing Harness Clamp Bracket And Harness Cover On

Bracket
41. Install the harness clamps (D) on the clamp brackets.
42. Connect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (A), and install
the harness clamps (B) on the brackets. Connect the vacuum hose (C) to the
vacuum line (D).
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Fig. 286: Connecting Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor

Connector (A), And Installing Harness Clamps (B)
43. Connect the transmission range switch connector (E), then install it on its
bracket (F).
44. Connect the connectors to the torque converter clutch solenoid valve (A) and
shift solenoid valve B.
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Fig. 287: Connecting Connectors To Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid

Valve (A) And Shift Solenoid Valve B
45. Connect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, and
solenoid valve B connector, and install the harness clamp (C) on the clamp
bracket (D).
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Fig. 288: Installing A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A And
Solenoid Valve B Connector
46. Connect shift solenoid valve A connector, solenoid valve C connector, and A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (B), and install the harness
clamps (D) on the clamp brackets (E).
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Fig. 289: Connecting Shift Solenoid Valve A And Solenoid Valve C

Connector
47. Connect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (A) and 4th clutch
transmission fluid pressure switch connector (B), and connect the vacuum hose
(C) to the vacuum line (D).
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Fig. 290: Connecting Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Connector

48. Connect the transmission sub harness connector (E), then install it on its
bracket (F).
49. Install the transmission upper mount bracket (A) on the transmission with two
bolts.
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Fig. 291: Installing Transmission Upper Mount Bracket

50. Install the new upper mount bolt and bracket plate (B).
51. Install the starter (A) on the torque converter housing. Connect the starter
cables (B) to the starter, and install the harness clamp on the clamp bracket.
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Fig. 292: Installing Starter On Torque Converter Housing

52. Install the power steering pump outlet line (A) with a new O-ring (B) to the
pump (C), and install the hose (D) in its clamp (E).
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Fig. 293: Installing Power Steering Pump Outlet Line With O-Ring To
Pump
53. Refill the power steering system with fluid (see FLUID REPLACEMENT ).
54. Refill the transmission with ATF (see step 5 in ATF Replacement ).
55. Connect the steering joint to the steering gearbox pinion shaft (A) by aligning
the reference mark (B), and remove the wire (C) from the joint yoke (D).
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Fig. 294: Connecting Steering Joint To Steering Gearbox Pinion Shaft

Aligning Reference Mark
56. Install the steering joint cover (E).

57. Remove the steering wheel, refer to STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL .
58. Center the SRS cable reel and install the steering wheel, refer to STEERING
WHEEL INSTALLATION .
59. Install the battery base.
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63. Reinstall the support strut bracket with the bolts to proper locations on both
sides hood.
Fig. 295: Reinstalling Support Strut Bracket

64. Set the parking brake. Start the engine, and shift the transmission through all
gears three times.
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65. Check the shift lever operation, A/T gear position indicator operation, and shift
cable adjustment.
66. Check and adjust the front wheel alignment, refer to WHEEL
ALIGNMENT .
68. Start the engine in the P or N position, and warm it up to normal operating
temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
69. Turn off the engine, and check the ATF level (see ATF LEVEL CHECK).
71. Do the road test (see ROAD TEST).
the clock.
ATF WARMER REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Replace the ATF warmer with a new one whenever the
1. Lift the vehicle up on a lift or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and
3. Drain the engine coolant (see COOLANT CHECK ).
5. Remove the harness clamps (A) and harness cover (B) from the harness clamp
bracket (C), and remove the bolt securing the bracket.
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Fig. 296: Removing Harness Clamps And Harness Cover

6. Disconnect the water hoses (D) from the ATF warmer (E).
7. Put a shop rugs around the ATF warmer (A) to catch the ATF that flows out.
8. Remove the bolts securing the ATF warmer and the bracket (B), then remove
the ATF warmer from the transmission
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Fig. 297: Removing ATF And Bracket Bolts

9. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages. Do not allow dust or other
foreign particles to enter the transmission
10. Install the new ATF warmer with the new O-rings (C) and the bracket. Do not
pinch the O-rings.
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11. Connect the water hoses on the ATF warmer, and secure the hoses with the
clips.
12. Install the harness clamp bracket bolt, and install the harness clamps and
harness cover on the bracket.
13. Install the intake air duct and air cleaner housing.
14. Fill the radiator with the engine coolant, then bleed air from the cooling system
(see step 6 in COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
SHIFT CABLE REPLACEMENT
1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.

2. Remove the center console, refer to CENTER CONSOLE
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION .
3. Shift the transmission into the R position.
4. Remove the nut securing the shift cable end.
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Fig. 298: Removing Shift Cable End Nut

5. Press the holder lock release (A), and pull out the socket holder (B) on the shift
cable (C) of the shift lever bracket base (D).
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Fig. 299: Pressing Holder Lock Release And Pulling Out Socket Holder
On Shift Cable
6. Remove the heat shield under the shift cable grommet.

7. Remove the shift cable bracket (A) and grommet (B).
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Fig. 300: Removing Shift Cable Bracket And Grommet

8. Remove the bolts securing shift cable holder (A), then remove the shift cable
cover (B).
NOTE: To prevent damage to the control lever joint, remove

the bolts securing the holder before removing the bolts
securing the cover.
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Fig. 301: Removing Shift Cable Holder Bolts

9. Remove the lock bolt (C) securing the control lever (D), then remove the shift
cable (E) and the control lever. Do not bend the shift cable excessively.
10. Insert the new shift cable through the grommet hole. Do not bend the shift
cable excessively.
11. Install the shift cable bracket on the body, then install the grommet.
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12. Verify that the transmission is in the R position at the control lever.
13. Install the selector control lever on the selector control shaft. Do not bend the
shift cable excessively.
14. Install the lock bolt with a new lock washer, then bend the lock washer tab
against the bolt head.
15. Install the shift cable cover, then secure the shift cable holder on the cover with
the bolts.
NOTE: To prevent damage to the control lever joint, be sure

install the shift cable holder after installing the shift
cable cover to the torque converter housing.
16. Install the heat shield.

17. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the R position indicator comes
on.
18. If necessary, push the shift cable until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift
cable back one step so that the shift position is in R. Do not hold the shift cable
guide (A) to adjust the shift cable (B).
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Fig. 302: Pulling Shift Cable Back To R Position


20. Insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 in.) pin (A) through the positioning hole (B) on the shift
lever bracket base and into the positioning hole (C) on the shift lever. The shift
lever is secured in the R position.
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Fig. 303: Inserting Pin Through Positioning Hole On Shift Lever Bracket
Base
21. Align the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) with the slot in the bracket
base (C), then slide the holder into base. Install the shift cable end (D) over the
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mounting stud (E) by aligning its square hole (F) with the square fitting (G) at
the bottom of the stud. Push the holder until it snaps securely in place. Do not
install the shift cable by holding the shift cable guide (H).
Fig. 304: Aligning Socket Holder On Shift Cable

22. Verify that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud
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(B).
Fig. 305: Verifying Shift Cable End Is Properly Installed

23. If improperly installed, remove the shift cable from the bracket base, and
reinstall the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud
while the shift cable is on the bracket base.
24. Install and tighten the nut.
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Fig. 306: Tightening Nut

25. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 in.) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever.
26. Move the shift lever to each position, and verify that the A/T gear position
indicator follows the transmission range switch.
27. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely.
28. Start the engine, and check the shift lever operation in all gears.
29. Push the shift lock release, and verify that the shift lever releases.
30. Reinstall the center console, refer to CENTER CONSOLE
A/T GEAR POSITION INDICATOR
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Fig. 307: Locating A/T Gear Position Indicator

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 308: A/T Gear Position Circuit Diagram

A/T GEAR POSITION INDICATOR CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
Symptom: A/T gear position indicator does not indicate the shift lever position, the
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D indicator does not blink, and no transmission range switch, CAN line DTCs are
indicated.
1. Check the indicator drive circuit and communication line in the gauge control
module with the self-diagnostic procedure of the gauge control module, refer to
SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION .
Is the system OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Record the ODO data in the old gauge control module, and replace
the gauge control module, refer to GAUGE CONTROL MODULE
REPLACEMENT . Input the old ODO data in the new gauge control
module with the HDS, refer to GAUGE CONTROL MODULE
REPLACEMENT .
2. Remove the gauge control module.
4. Measure the voltage between gauge control module connector terminal B2 and
body ground. The shift lever can be in any position.
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Fig. 309: Measuring Voltage Between Gauge Control Module Connector

Terminal B2 And Body Ground
YES - Faulty A/T gear position indicator in the gauge control module,
replace the gauge control module.
NO - Go to step 5.
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Body Ground
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YES - Repair open or short in the wire between PCM connector terminal
C21 and the gauge control module connector terminal B2.
NO - Check for loose terminal fit in the PCM connectors. If necessary,
substitute a known-good PCM and recheck.
TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
1. Remove the transmission range switch harness connector (A) from the
connector bracket (B), then disconnect the connector.
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Fig. 311: Removing Transmission Range Switch Harness Connector From

Connector Bracket (2003-05 Models)
2006-07 Model:
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Fig. 312: Removing Transmission Range Switch Harness Connector From

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Connector Bracket (2006-07 Model)

2. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should
be continuity between the terminals in Fig. 313 or Fig. 314 for each switch
position.
If the continuity test for each position is good, the switch is OK.
Reconnect the connector.
If there is no continuity at one or more switch positions, go to step 3.
Fig. 313: Transmission Range Switch Harness Connector Chart (2003-

2005 Models)
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Fig. 314: Transmission Range Switch Harness Connector Chart (2006-07

Model)
3. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
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Fig. 315: Removing Transmission Range Switch Cover

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Fig. 316: Disconnect Transmission Range Switch Connector

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5. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should
be continuity between the terminals in Fig. 317 for each switch position.
If the transmission range switch continuity check is OK, replace the faulty
transmission range switch harness.
If there is no continuity at one or more switch positions, go to step 6.
Fig. 317: Transmission Range Switch Connector Chart

6. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector
control shaft (A).
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Standard:
Selector Control Shaft Width (B): 6.1-6.2 mm (0.240-0.244 in.)
Selector Control Shaft End Gap (C): 1.8-2.0 mm (0.07-0.08 in.)
If the measurement of the selector control shaft end is within the standard,
replace the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE
SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).
If the measurement is out of standard, repair the selector control shaft end,
and recheck the transmission range switch continuity.
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Fig. 318: Checking End Of Selector Control Shaft

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TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT

2. Shift to the N position.
3. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Fig. 319: Removing Transmission Range Switch Cover

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Fig. 320: Disconnecting Transmission Range Switch Connector

5. Remove the transmission range switch, and replace the new switch.
6. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the
shift lever to the N position.
NOTE: Do not use the selector control shaft to adjust the shift
position. If the selector control shaft tips are squeezed
together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to
play between the selector control shaft and the switch.
The clearance (A) between selector control shaft tips is
2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
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Fig. 321: Making Sure Selector Shaft Is In N Position

7. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts
(B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) feeler
gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
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NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade or equivalent to

hold the switch in the N position.
Fig. 322: Aligning Cutouts On Rotary-Frame With Neutral Positioning

Cutouts On Transmission Range Switch
8. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft
(B) while holding it in the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade (C).
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Fig. 323: Installing Transmission Range Switch

9. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold
the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when tightening the
bolts. Remove the feeler gauge.
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Fig. 324: Tightening Transmission Range Switch Bolts Holding N Position

10. Connect the connector securely, then install the transmission range switch
cover (A).
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Fig. 325: Installing Transmission Range Switch Cover

11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions,
and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear
position indicator.
12. Check that the engine will start in the P and N positions, and will not start in
any other shift lever position.
13. Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position.
14. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the
shift lever operation.
A/T INTERLOCK SYSTEM
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Fig. 326: Locating A/T Interlock System Components

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 327: A/T Interlock Circuit Diagram

SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC.

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2. Choose Shift Lock Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that
the shift lock solenoid operates with the HDS.
Does the shift lock solenoid work properly?

NO - Go to step 3.
3. Remove the center console, refer to CENTER CONSOLE
4. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector.
6. Measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
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Fig. 328: Measuring Voltage Between Shift Lock Solenoid Connector

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Check for a blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay
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box. If the fuse is OK, repair open or short in the wire between the shift
lock solenoid connector and the under-dash fuse/relay box.
7. Shift the shift lever into the P position, and press the brake pedal. Do not press
the accelerator.
8. Measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and
No. 2 while pressing the brake pedal.
Fig. 329: Measuring Voltage Between Shift Lock Solenoid Connector

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Terminals No. 1 And No. 2

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 10.
9. Release the brake pedal, and measure the voltage between connector terminals
No. 1 and No. 2. The shift lever must be in the P position.
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Fig. 330: Measuring Voltage Between Connector Terminals No. 1 And No.
2
YES - Repair a short to ground in the wire between PCM connector

terminal A22 and the shift lock solenoid.
NO - Check the shift lock mechanism. If the mechanism is OK, replace
the shift lock solenoid, refer to KEY INTERLOCK SOLENOID TEST .
12. Disconnect PCM connector A (31P).
13. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A22 and shift lock
solenoid connector terminal No. 2.
Fig. 331: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal A22

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And Shift Lock Solenoid Connector Terminal No. 2

YES - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck.

NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A22 and
the shift lock solenoid.
14. Press the brake pedal.
Are the brake lights ON?

NO - Repair faulty brake light circuit.
17. Disconnect PCM connector A (31P).
18. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A8 and body ground
while pressing the brake pedal and when the brake pedal is released.
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Fig. 332: Measure Voltage Between PCM Connector Terminal A8 And

Body Ground
Is there battery voltage while the brake pedal is pressing, and no voltage
when the pedal is released?

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NO - Go to step 19.
19. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A8 and body ground.
Fig. 333: Checking Continuity Between PCM Connector Terminal A8 And

Body Ground
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terminal A8 and the brake pedal position switch.
NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A8 and
the brake pedal position switch.
20. Connect PCM connector A (31P).
No. 6 and No. 10.
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NO - Go to step 24.
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And Body Ground
the transmission range switch.
NO - Go to step 27.
27. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C17 and transmission
range switch connector terminal No. 10.

And Transmission Range Switch Connector Terminal No. 10
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NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal C17 and
the transmission range switch.
28. Check for continuity between transmission range switch connector terminal
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Fig. 337: Checking Continuity Between Transmission Range Switch

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YES - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck.
NO - Repair open in the wire between transmission range switch
connector terminal No. 6 and ground (G101), or repair poor ground
(G101).
29. Test the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE
SWITCH TEST).
Is the switch OK?

NO - (seeTRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).
30. Connect the HDS to the DLC.
31. Check the accelerator pedal position sensor in the A/T data list with the HDS.
Do not press the accelerator.
Is the accelerator pedal position sensor opening 11% and above, or the
sensor voltage 0.90 V and above?
YES - Check the throttle body (see THROTTLE BODY TEST ).

NO - Check the throttle cable adjustment (see THROTTLE CABLE
ADJUSTMENT ). If the throttle cable adjustment is OK, substitute a
known-good PCM and recheck.
TRANSMISSION END COVER
END COVER, 3RD GEAR, IDLER GEAR, AND 3RD CLUTCH REMOVAL

Mainshaft holder 07GAB-PF50101 or 07GAB-PF50100
Adjustable bearing puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B or 07736-A01000A
1. Remove the ATF temperature sensor connector (A) from the connector bracket
(B), then disconnect the connector, and remove the ATF temperature sensor
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(C) (three bolts).
Fig. 338: Removing ATF Temperature Sensor Connector From Connector

Bracket
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2. Disconnect the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (D), remove the
ground terminal (E), then remove the sensor subharness (F).
3. Remove the transmission range switch cover (G), then remove the transmission
range switch (H) (three bolts).
4. Remove the 6 mm bolt securing the harness clamp bracket on the ATF line (I),
and remove the line bolts (J), then remove the ATF line and sealing washers.
Remove the ATF hose (K) from the ATF line if necessary.
5. Remove the ATF passage body (L), ATF pipe, O-ring, dowel pin, and gasket
(three bolts).
6. Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B (M), clamp
bracket, ATF pipes, O-rings, and gasket (six bolts).
7. Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (N), ATF pipe, and
gasket (four bolts).
8. Remove the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (O).
9. Remove the 16 bolts securing the end cover, connector bracket (B), harness
cover bracket (P), then remove the end cover (Q), two dowel pins, O-rings, and
gasket.
10. Slip the special tool onto the mainshaft.
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Fig. 339: Slipping Special Tool Onto Mainshaft

11. Engage the park pawl with the park gear.

12. Cut the lock tab (A) of each shaft locknut (B) using a chisel (C). Then remove
the locknuts and conical spring washers from each shaft.
NOTE: Countershaft and secondary shaft locknuts have

left-hand threads.
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Keep all of the chiseled particles out of the

transmission.
Clean the old locknuts; they are used to install the
press fit mainshaft 3rd gear, secondary shaft idler
gear, and 3rd clutch assembly on the countershaft.
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Fig. 340: Cutting Lock Tab Of Each Shaft Locknut Using Chisel
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13. Remove the special tool from the mainshaft.

14. Remove the 3rd clutch assembly using the special tool and a commercially
available 3/8" -16 slide hammer (A).
Fig. 341: Removing 3rd Clutch Assembly Using Special Tool

15. Remove the splined washer, thrust needle bearing, countershaft 3rd gear,
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needle bearing, and thrust needle bearing from the countershaft.

16. Remove the mainshaft 3rd gear (A), secondary shaft idler gear (B), and park
gear (C) with a puller (D).
Fig. 342: Removing Mainshaft 3rd Gear, Secondary Shaft Idler Gear And
Park Gear With Puller
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17. Remove the park pawl, park pawl spring, park pawl shaft, and stop shaft.
18. Remove the park lever from the selector control shaft.
PARK LEVER STOP INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT
1. Set the park lever (A) in the P position.
Fig. 343: Setting Park Lever In P Position

2. Measure the distance (B) between the park pawl shaft (C) and the park lever
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roller pin (D).

Standard: 84.6-85.6 mm (3.33-3.37 in.)
3. If the measurement is out of tolerance, select and install the appropriate park
lever stop (E) from PARK LEVER STOP .
Fig. 344: Installing Appropriate Park Lever Stop

PARK LEVER STOP

Mark Part Number L1 L2
1 24537-PA9-003 11.00 mm (0.433 11.00 mm (0.433
in.) in.)
2 24538-PA9-003 10.80 mm (0.425 10.65 mm (0.419
in.) in.)
3 24539-PA9-003 10.60 mm (0.417 10.30 mm (0.406
in.) in.)
4. After replacing the park lever stop, make sure the distance is within tolerance.
SELECTOR CONTROL SHAFT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
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Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 22 x 24 mm 07746-0010800
1. Remove the oil seal (A) from the end cover (B).
Fig. 345: Remove Oil Seal From End Cover

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2. Install the new oil seal flush to the end cover with the special tools.
Fig. 346: Installing Oil Seal Flush To End Cover With Special Tools
SELECTOR CONTROL SHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENT
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Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 22 x 24 mm 07746-0010800
1. Remove the oil seal from the end cover, then remove the bearing.
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Fig. 347: Removing Oil Seal From End Cover

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2. Install the new bearing flush to the end cover with the special tools.
Fig. 348: Installing Bearing Flush To End Cover With Special Tool
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3. Install the new oil seal.

ATF FEED PIPE REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the snap rings (A), ATF feed pipes (B) and feed pipe flanges (C) from
the end cover (D).
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Fig. 349: Removing Snap Rings, ATF Feed Pipes And Feed Pipe Flanges
2. Install the new O-ring (E) over the ATF feed pipe.
3. Install the ATF feed pipe in the end cover by aligning the feed pipe tabs with
the indentations in the end cover.
4. Install the new O-ring (F) in the end cover, then install the feed pipe flange
over the ATF feed pipe and O-rings.
5. Secure the ATF feed pipe and feed pipe flange with the snap ring.
TRANSMISSION HOUSING
HOUSING AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
Housing puller 07HAC-PK40102
1. Remove the ATF dipstick guide pipe (A).
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Fig. 350: Removing ATF Dipstick Guide Pipe

2. Remove the two bolts securing the reverse idler gear shaft holder, then remove
the reverse idler gear shaft holder (B) and shaft (C).
3. Remove the transmission housing mounting bolts (17 bolts), transmission
hangers (D) (E), and harness clamp bracket (F).
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4. Move the reverse idler gear (G) to disengage it from the mainshaft and
countershaft idler gear.
NOTE: The transmission housing will not separate from the

torque converter housing if the reverse idler gear is not
moved.
Fig. 351: Moving Reverse Idler Gear To Disengage From Mainshaft And
Countershaft Idler Gear
5. Align the spring pin (W) on the selector control shaft (X) with the transmission
housing groove (Y) by turning the selector control shaft.
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Fig. 352: Aligning Spring Pin On Selector Control Shaft With

Transmission Housing Groove
6. Install the special tool over the mainshaft, then remove the transmission
housing (H).
NOTE: If the top arm of your housing puller is too short,

replace it with Housing Puller Arm, 205 mm T/N07SAC-
P0Z0101.
7. Remove the reverse idler gear (G), needle bearings, and washers from the
transmission housing.
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8. Remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (I).

9. Remove the three dowel pins (J) and gasket (K) from the torque converter
housing (L).
10. Remove the countershaft 2nd gear (M), countershaft reverse gear (N), and
needle bearing (O).
11. Remove the lock bolt securing the shift fork, then remove the shift fork (P) and
reverse selector (Q). If the reverse selector hub is not press-fitted, remove the
reverse selector hub, countershaft 5th gear, and needle bearing from the
countershaft.
12. Remove the secondary shaft subassembly (R). If the reverse selector hub is
press-fitted, remove the secondary shaft subassembly, countershaft
subassembly (S) and mainshaft subassembly (T) together.
13. Remove the countershaft subassembly.
14. Remove the mainshaft subassembly.
15. Remove the differential assembly (U).
16. Remove the ATF magnet (V), and clean it. Reinstall the magnet in the
BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Driver 07749-0010000
Seal driver attachment 07GAD-PG40101 or 07GAD-PG40100
Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600 (for 2003-2005 models countershaft
bearing use)
Attachment, 78 x 80 mm 07NAD-PX40100 (for 2006-07 model countershaft
bearing use)
NOTE: Coat all parts with ATF before assembly.
1. To remove the mainshaft bearing (A), countershaft bearing (B), and secondary
shaft bearing (C) from the transmission housing, expand each snap ring with
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the snap ring pliers, then push the bearing out.
NOTE: Do not remove the snap rings unless it's necessary to

clean the grooves in the housing.
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Fig. 353: Expanding Snap Ring With Snap Ring Pliers To Removing
Mainshaft, Countershaft And Secondary Shaft Bearings
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2. Install the bearings in the direction shown.

3. Expand each snap ring with the snap ring pliers, and insert the bearing part-
way into the housing.
4. Release the pliers, then push the bearing down into the housing until the snap
ring snaps in place around it.
Fig. 354: Pushing Bearing Down Into Housing

5. After installing the bearings verify the following:
The snap rings (A) are seated in the bearing and housing grooves.
The ring end gaps (B) are correct.
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Fig. 355: Verifying Snap Rings Are Seated In Bearing And Housing
Grooves
VALVE BODY
VALVE BODY AND ATF STRAINER REMOVAL
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1. Remove the three ATF feed pipes (A) from the regulator valve body (B), four
pipes (C) from the top accumulator body (D), one pipe (E) from the servo body
(F), and one 10 mm pipe (G) from the accumulator body (H).
Fig. 356: Removing ATF Feed Pipes From Regulator Valve Body
2. Remove the servo detent base (I) (two bolts).

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3. Remove the ATF strainer (J) (two bolts).

4. Remove the top accumulator body (D) (seven bolts), then remove the top
accumulator body separator plate (K) and two dowel pins.
5. Remove the servo body (F) (five bolts), then remove servo separator plate (L)
and two dowel pins.
6. Remove the regulator valve body (B) (eight bolts).
7. Remove the stator shaft (M) and stator shaft stop (N).
8. Remove the regulator separator plate (O) and two dowel pins.
9. Remove the accumulator body (H) (seven bolts).
10. Unhook the detent spring (P) from the detent arm (Q), then remove the detent
arm shaft (R), detent arm, and selector control shaft (S).
11. Remove the cooler check valve spring (T) and cooler check valve (U).
12. Remove the main valve body (V) (four bolts).
13. Remove the torque converter check valve (W) and valve spring (X).
14. Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft (Y), then remove the ATF pump
gears (Z).
15. Remove the main separator plate (AA) and three dowel pins.
16. Remove shift solenoid valves (BB) (CC) (DD) and torque converter clutch
solenoid valve (EE) from the torque converter housing.
17. Clean the inlet opening (A) of the ATF strainer (B) thoroughly with
compressed air, then check that it is in good condition and that the inlet
opening is not clogged.
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Fig. 357: Cleaning Inlet Opening Of ATF Strainer With Compressed Air
18. Test the ATF strainer by pouring clean ATF through the inlet opening, and
replace it if it is clogged or damaged.
VALVE BODY REPAIR
NOTE: This repair is only necessary if one or more of the valves in

a valve body do not slide smoothly in their bores. Use this
procedure to free the valves.
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1. Soak a sheet of # 600 abrasive paper in ATF for about 30 minutes.

2. Carefully tap the valve body so the sticking valve drops out of its bore. It may
be necessary to use a small screwdriver to pry the valve free. Be careful not to
scratch the bore with the screwdriver.
3. Inspect the valve for any scuff marks. Use the ATF-soaked # 600 paper to
polish off any burrs that are on the valve, then wash the valve in solvent and
dry it with compressed air.
4. Roll up half a sheet of ATF-soaked # 600 paper and insert it in the valve bore
of the sticking valve. Twist the paper slightly, so that it unrolls and fits the bore
tightly, then polish the bore by twisting the paper as you push it in and out.
NOTE: The valve body is aluminum and doesn't require much

polishing to remove any burrs.
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Fig. 358: Inserting Rolled Up Half A Sheet Of ATF-soaked # 600 Paper In

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Valve Bore
5. Remove the #600 paper. Thoroughly wash the entire valve body in solvent,
then dry it with compressed air.
6. Coat the valve with ATF, then drop it into its bore. It should drop to the bottom
of the bore under its own weight. If not, repeat steps 4 and 5, then retest. If the
valve still sticks, replace the valve body.
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Fig. 359: Dropping Valve Coated With ATF Into Its Bore
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7. Remove the valve, and thoroughly clean it and the valve body with solvent.
Dry all parts with compressed air, then reassemble using ATF as a lubricant.
VALVE BODY VALVE INSTALLATION
1. Coat all parts with ATF before assembly.

2. Install the valves and springs in the sequence shown for the main valve body
(see MAIN VALVE BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND
REASSEMBLY), regulator valve body (see REGULATOR VALVE BODY
DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY), servo body (see
SERVO BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY),
and top accumulator body (see TOP ACCUMULATOR BODY
DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY). Refer to Fig. 360
valve cap , and install each valve cap so the end shown facing up will be facing
the outside of the valve body.
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Fig. 360: Installing Valve Cap Facing Up

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3. Install all the springs and seats. Insert the spring (A) in the valve, then install
the valve in the valve body (B). Push the spring in with a screwdriver, then
install the spring seat (C).
Fig. 361: Inserting Spring In Valve

MAIN VALVE BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
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1. Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with
compressed air. Blow out all passages.
2. Do not use a magnet to remove the check ball, it may magnetize the ball.
3. Inspect the valve body for scoring and damage. Replace the valve body as an
assembly if any parts are worn or damaged.
4. Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, refer to valve
body repair (see VALVE BODY REPAIR).
5. Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
6. Install the new filter in the direction shown in Fig. 362.
Fig. 362: Installing Filter

SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
Standard (New) -Unit: mm (in.)
Springs Wire Free No. of
O.D.
Dia. Length Coils
0.7
A Shift valve D spring 6.6 (0.260) 33.7(1.327) 11.6
(0.028)
0.8 49.1
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B Shift valve C spring (0.031) 6.6 (0.260) (1.933) 21.7

0.8 49.1
C Kick-down valve spring 6.6 (0.260) 21.7
(0.031) (1.933)
1.6 10.4
D Modulator valve spring 33.5(1.319) 9.8
(0.063) (0.409)
1.2 11.1
E Relief valve spring 39.0(1.535) 9.9
(0.047) (0.437)
0.9 63.0
F Lock-up shift valve spring 7.6 (0.299) 22.4
(0.035) (2.480)
0.6
G Cooler check valve spring 5.8 (0.228) 14.5(0.571) 6.8
(0.024)
Torque converter check valve 1.2
H 8.6 (0.339) 34.4(1.354) 11.7
spring (0.047)
0.9
I Servo control valve spring 6.4 (0.252) 32.5(1.280) 17.5
(0.035)
0.7
J Reverse CPC valve spring 6.1 (0.240) 17.8(0.701) 7.9
(0.028)
ATF PUMP INSPECTION
1. Install the ATF pump drive gear (A), driven gear (B), and ATF pump driven
gear shaft (C) in the main valve body (D). Lubricate all parts with ATF, and
install the ATF pump driven gear with its grooved and chamfered side facing
up.
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Fig. 363: Installing ATF Pump Drive Gear, Driven Gear And ATF Pump
Driven Gear Shaft In Main Valve Body
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2. Measure the side clearance of the ATF pump drive gear (A) and driven gear
(B).
ATF Pump Gears Side (Radial) Clearance:
Standard (New):
ATF Pump Drive Gear: 0.210-0.265 mm (0.0083-0.00104 in.)

ATF Pump Driven Gear: 0.070-0.125 mm (0.0028-0.0050 in.)
Fig. 364: Measuring Side Clearance Of ATF Pump Drive Gear And
Driven Gear
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3. Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft. Measure the thrust clearance
between the ATF pump driven gear (A) and the valve body (B) with a straight
edge (C) and a feeler gauge (D).
ATF Pump Drive/Driven Gear Thrust (Axial) Clearance:

Standard (New): 0.03-0.06 mm (0.001-0.002 in.)
Service Limit: 0.07 mm (0.003 in.)
Fig. 365: Measuring Thrust Clearance Between ATF Pump Driven Gear
And Valve Body
REGULATOR VALVE BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
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2. Inspect the valve body for scoring and damage.
4. Replace the valve body as an assembly if any parts are worn or damaged.
5. Hold the regulator spring cap in place while removing the stop bolt. The
regulator spring cap is spring loaded. Once the stop bolt is removed, release the
spring cap slowly so it does not pop out.
6. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Install the filter in the direction
shown in Fig. 366.
8. Align the hole in the regulator spring cap with the hole in the valve body, then
press the spring cap into the valve body, and tighten the stop bolt.
9. Install the new filter in the direction shown in Fig. 366.
Fig. 366: Installing New Filter

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REGULATOR VALVE BODY SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
Standard (New)-Unit: mm (in.)
Springs Free No. of
Wire Dia. O.D.
Length Coils
Stator reaction spring 2003 37.4
5.5(0.217) 30.3(1.193) 2.1
model (1.472)
A
35.4
2004-2007 models 4.5(0.177) 30.3(1.193) 1.92
(1.394)
14.7
B Regulator valve spring A 1.9(0.075) 80.6(3.173) 16.1
(0.579)
9.2
C Regulator valve spring B 1.6(0.063) 44.0(1.732) 12.5
(0.362)
6.6
D Lock-up control valve spring 0.7 (0.028) 42.9(1.689) 15.3
(0.260)
0.65 6.6
E Lock-up timing valve spring 34.8(1.370) 15.6
(0.026) (0.260)
SERVO BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
2. Inspect the servo body for scoring and damage. Replace the valve body as an
assembly if any parts are worn or damaged.
4. Coat all parts with ATF during reassembly.
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Fig. 367: Identifying Servo Body

SERVO BODY SPRING SPECIFICATIONS

Springs
Wire Dia. O.D. Free Length No. of Coils
A CPC valve A spring 0.7 (0.028) 6.1 (0.240) 17.8(0.701) 7.9
B CPC valve B spring 0.7 (0.028) 6.1 (0.240) 17.8(0.701) 7.9
C Shift valve B spring 0.8(0.031) 6.6 (0.260) 49.1 (1.933) 21.7
D Shift valve A spring 0.8(0.031) 6.6 (0.260) 49.1 (1.933) 21.7
TOP ACCUMULATOR BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
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2. Inspect the top accumulator body for scoring and damage. Replace the valve
body as an assembly if any parts are worn or damaged.
Fig. 368: Identifying Top Accumulator Body

TOP ACCUMULATOR BODY SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
Springs Free No. of
Wire Dia. O.D.
Length Coils
0.7
A CPC valve C spring 6.1 (0.240) 17.8(0.701) 7.9
(0.028)
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B Shift valve E spring 0.8(0.031) 7.1 (0.280) 49.0(1.929) 17.2

2.2 16.4
C 5th accumulator spring A 75.7 (2.980) 14.2
(0.087) (0.646)
2.0 10.0
D 5th accumulator spring B 45.5(1.791) 11.6
(0.079) (0.394)
4th/1st-hold accumulator 19.6
E 3.4(0.134) 57.4(2.260) 8.4
spring (0.772)
ACCUMULATOR BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
1. Do not use a magnet to remove the check balls; it may magnetize the balls.
2. Inspect the accumulator body for scoring and damage.
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Fig. 369: Identifying Accumulator Body

ACCUMULATOR BODY SPRING SPECIFICATIONS

Springs
A 1st accumulator spring B 2.3(0.091) 12.6(0.496) 42.0(1.654) 9.9
B 1st accumulator spring A 2.4 (0.094) 19.5 (0.768) 67.7 (2.665) 10.2
C 2nd accumulator spring B 2.6(0.102) 13.0(0.512) 44.0(1.732) 9.0
D 2nd accumulator spring A 2.5 (0.098) 19.6(0.772) 57.7 (2.272) 9.5
3RD ACCUMULATOR AND END COVER DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
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compressed air, Blow out all passages.

Fig. 370: Identifying 3rd Accumulator And End Cover

3RD ACCUMULATOR AND END SPRING SPECIFICATIONS

Springs
A 3rd accumulator spring 3.1 (0.122) 19.6(0.772) 39.4(1.551) 5.5
TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING

MAINSHAFT BEARING AND OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
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Driver 07749:0010000
Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
1. Remove the mainshaft bearing and oil seal with the special tool and a
commercially available 3/8" -16 slide hammer (A).
Fig. 371: Removing Mainshaft Bearing And Oil Seal

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2. Install the new mainshaft bearing until it bottoms in the housing with the
special tools.
Fig. 372: Installing Mainshaft Bearing

3. Install the new oil seal flush to the housing with the special tools.
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Fig. 373: Installing Oil Seal Flush To Housing

COUNTERSHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENT

Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
1. Remove the countershaft bearing (A) with the special tool and a commercially
available 3/8" -16 slide hammer (B).
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Fig. 374: Remove Countershaft Bearing

2. Install the ATF guide plate (A).
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Fig. 375: Installing ATF Guide Plate

3. Install the new bearing (B) into the housing (C) with the special tools.
SECONDARY SHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENT

Driver 07749-0010000
Driver attachment 07947-6340500
1. Remove the secondary shaft bearing (A) with the special tool and a
commercially available 3/8" -16 slide hammer (B).
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Fig. 376: Remove Secondary Shaft Bearing

2. Install the ATF guide plate (A).
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Fig. 377: Installing ATF Guide Plate

3. Install the new bearing (B) into the housing (C) with the special tools.
SELECTOR CONTROL SHAFT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 22 x 24 mm 07746-0010800
1. Remove the oil seal (A), from the torque converter housing (B).
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Fig. 378: Removing Oil Seal

2. Install the new oil seal flush to the torque converter housing with the special
tools.
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Fig. 379: Installing Oil Seal Flush To Torque Converter Housing

SHAFTS AND CLUTCHES
MAINSHAFT DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
1. Lubricate all parts with ATF during assembly.
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Fig. 380: Lubricating All Parts With ATF During Assembly

2. Check the clearance of the 4th/5th clutch assembly (see 4TH/5TH CLUTCH
CLEARANCE INSPECTION).
3. Inspect the thrust needle bearing and the needle bearing for scoring and rough
movement.
4. Inspect the splines for excessive wear and damage.
5. Check shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear.
6. Before installing the O-rings, wrap the shaft splines with tape to prevent O-ring
damage.
7. Install the 41 x 73 mm thrust shim and conical spring washer in the direction
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shown.
8. Inspect the condition of the sealing rings. If the sealing rings are worn,
distorted, or damaged, replace them (see MAINSHAFT SEALING RING
REPLACEMENT).
4TH/5TH CLUTCH CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Remove the O-rings from the mainshaft.

2. Assemble the 41 x 73 mm thrust shim (A), 4th/5th clutch assembly (B), and
5th gear collar (C) on the mainshaft (D).
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Fig. 381: Assembling Thrust Shim, 4th/5th Clutch Assembly And 5th Gear
Collar On Mainshaft
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3. Hold the 5th gear collar (C) against the clutch assembly (B), then measure the
clearance between the clutch guide (E) and the 5th gear collar with a feeler
gauge (F) in at least three places. Use the average as the actual clearance.
Standard: 0.03-0.11 mm (0.001-0.004 in.)
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Fig. 382: Holding 5th Gear Collar Against Clutch Assembly

4. If the clearance is out of standard, remove the thrust shim and measure its
thickness.
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5. Select and install a new shim, then recheck.

THRUST SHIM, 41 x 73 mm
No. Part Number Thickness
1 90414-P7W-000 7.85 mm (0.309 in.)
2 90415-P7W-000 7.90 mm (0.311 in.)
3 90416-P7W-000 7.95 mm (0.313 in.)
4 90417-P7W-000 8.00 mm (0.315 in.)
5 90418-P7W-000 8.05 mm (0.317 in.)
6 90419-P7W-000 8.10 mm (0.319 in.)
6. After replacing the thrust shim, make sure the clearance is within standard.
MAINSHAFT SEALING RING REPLACEMENT
The sealing rings are synthetic resin with chamfered ends. Check the condition of
the sealing rings, and replace them only if they are worn, distorted, or damaged.
1. For a better fit, squeeze sealing rings together slightly before installing them.
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Fig. 383: Squeezing Sealing Rings Together

2. Apply ATF to the new sealing rings then install them on the mainshaft.
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Fig. 384: Applying ATF To Sealing Rings

3. After installing the sealing rings, verify the following:

The rings are fully seated in the groove.
The rings are not twisted.
The chamfered ends of the rings are properly joined.
COUNTERSHAFT DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
1. Remove the locknut, and take off components down to the reverse selector
hub.
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Fig. 385: Identifying Countershaft

2. Remove the reverse selector hub, 4th gear, and 1st gear (see
COUNTERSHAFT REVERSE SELECTOR HUB AND 4TH GEAR
REMOVAL).
3. Check the bearing on the 3rd clutch for wear and rough movement. If the
bearing is worn or damaged, replace it (see 3RD CLUTCH BALL BEARING
REPLACEMENT).
4. Inspect the thrust needle bearing and the needle bearing for scoring and rough
movement.
5. Check the splines for excessive wear and damage.
6. Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear.
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7. Lubricate all parts with ATF, and reassemble the shaft and gears.
8. Install the distance collars, reverse selector hub, reverse selector, splined
washer, and conical spring washer in the direction shown.
COUNTERSHAFT REVERSE SELECTOR HUB AND 4TH GEAR REMOVAL
1. Remove the reverse selector hub (A) and the 5th gear (B) from the countershaft
with a press. Place a shaft protector (C) between the countershaft and press to
prevent damaging the countershaft.
NOTE: Some reverse selector hubs are not press-fitted, and

can be removed without using a press.
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Fig. 386: Removing Reverse Selector Hub And 5th Gear

2. Remove the needle bearing, snap ring, 35 x 47 x 7.8 mm distance collar, 31

mm cotters, 35 x 47 x 45.6 mm distance collar, and 31 mm cotters from the
countershaft.
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3. Remove the 1st gear (A) and 4th gear (B) from the countershaft with a press.
Place a shaft protector (C) between the countershaft and press to prevent
damaging the countershaft.
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Fig. 387: Remove 1st Gear And 4th Gear

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COUNTERSHAFT 4TH GEAR AND REVERSE SELECTOR HUB INSTALLATION
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
1. Apply ATF to the parts.

2. Install the 1st gear on the countershaft by hand.
3. Align the shaft splines with those on 4th gear, then press the countershaft (A)
into the 4th gear with a press. Place a shaft protector (B) between the
countershaft and press to prevent damaging the countershaft.
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Fig. 388: Pressing Countershaft Into 4th Gear With Press

4. Stop pressing the countershaft when the 4th gear contacts the 1st gear (C).
5. Install the 31 mm cotters, 35 x 47 x 45.6 mm distance collar, 31 mm cotters, 35
x 47 x 7.8 mm distance collar, snap ring, needle bearing, and 5th gear (A) on
the countershaft.
6. Slide the reverse selector hub (B) over the countershaft (C), then press it into
place with the special tool and a press.
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NOTE: Some reverse selector hubs are not press fitted, and
can be installed without using the special tool and a
press.
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Fig. 389: Sliding Reverse Selector Hub Over Countershaft

3RD CLUTCH BALL BEARING REPLACEMENT
Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
NOTE: Check the bearing for wear and rough movement. If the
bearing is OK, removal is not necessary.
1. Remove the ball bearing (A) from the 3rd clutch with a commercially available
bearing puller (B), bearing separator (C), and stepper adapter (D).
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Fig. 390: Removing Ball Bearing From 3rd Clutch

2. Install the new bearing on the 3rd clutch with the special tools and a press.
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Fig. 391: Installing Bearing On 3rd Clutch

SECONDARY SHAFT DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
1. Remove the locknut, and disassemble the shaft and gears.
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Fig. 392: Disassembling Shaft And Gears

2. Inspect the thrust needle bearing and needle bearing for wear and rough
movement.
3. Check the clearance of the secondary shaft assembly.
4. Check the splines for excessive wear and damage.
5. Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear.
6. Check the idler gear bearing for wear and rough movement. If the bearing is
worn or damaged, replace it (see SECONDARY SHAFT IDLER GEAR
BEARING REPLACEMENT).
7. Before installing the O-rings, wrap the shaft splines with tape to prevent
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damage to the O-rings.

8. Lubricate all parts with ATF during reassembly.
9. Install the splined washer and conical spring washer in the direction shown.
SECONDARY SHAFT CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Remove the O-rings from the secondary shaft.

2. Assemble the thrust needle bearing (A), 1st gear assembly (B), needle bearings
(C), thrust needle bearing (D), 38 x 56.5 mm splined washer (E), 32 mm
cotters (F), cotter retainer (G), and snap ring (H) on the secondary shaft (I).
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Fig. 393: Assembling Thrust Needle Bearing

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3. Measure the clearance between the 38 x 56.5 mm splined washer (E) and
cotters (F) with a feeler gauge (J) in at least three places. Use the average as the
actual clearance.
Standard: 0.07-0.15 mm (0.003-0.006 in.)
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Fig. 394: Measuring Clearance Between Splined Washer And Cotters

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4. If the measurement is out of standard, remove the splined washer, and measure
its thickness.
5. Select and install a new splined washer, then recheck the clearance.
SPLINED WASHER, 38 x 56.5 mm (2003-2005 Models)

1 90502-P0Z-000 6.85 mm (0.270 in.)
2 90503-P0Z-000 6.90 mm (0.272 in.)
3 90504-P0Z-000 6.95 mm (0.274 in.)
4 90505-P0Z-000 7.00 mm (0.276 in.)
5 90506-P0Z-000 7.05 mm (0.278 in.)
6 90507-P0Z-000 7.10 mm (0.280 in.)
SPLINED WASHER, 38 x 56.5 mm (2006-07 Model)

1 90502-RAY-A00 6.85 mm (0.270 in.)
2 90503-RAY-A00 6.90 mm (0.272 in.)
3 90504-RAY-A00 6.95 mm (0.274 in.)
4 90505-RAY-A00 7.00 mm (0.276 in.)
5 90506-RAY-A00 7.05 mm (0.278 in.)
6 90507-RAY-A00 7.10 mm (0.280 in.)
6. Remove the 27 x 47 x 5 mm thrust washer from the mainshaft.

7. Assemble the 1st/1st-hold/2nd clutch assembly (A), 37 x 55 mm thrust washer
(B), thrust needle bearing (C), needle bearings (D), 2nd gear (E), thrust needle
bearing (F), and 27 x 47 x 5 mm thrust washer (removed from mainshaft) (G)
on the secondary shaft sub-assembly (H).
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Fig. 395: Assembling 1st/1st-Hold/2nd Clutch Assembly

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8. Set the dial indicator (I) on the 2nd gear (E).
Fig. 396: Setting Dial Indicator On 2nd Gear

9. Hold the 27 x 47 x 5 mm thrust washer (G) against the clutch assembly (A),
and measure the 2nd gear axial clearance in at least three places while moving
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the 2nd gear (E). Use the average as the actual clearance.
Standard: 0.04-0.12 mm (0.002-0.005 in.)
Fig. 397: Holding Thrust Washer Against Clutch Assembly

10. If the measurement is out of standard, remove the 37 x 55 mm thrust washer
and measure its thickness.
11. Select and install a new thrust washer, then recheck the clearance.
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THRUST SHIM, 37 x 55 mm
1 90406-P0Z-000 4.90 mm (0.193 in.)
2 90407-P0Z-000 4.95 mm (0.195 in.)
3 90408-P0Z-000 5.00 mm (0.197 in.)
4 90409-POZ-000 5.05 mm (0.199 in.)
5 90410-P0Z-000 5.10 mm (0.201 in.)
6 90411-P0Z-000 5.15 mm (0.203 in.)
7 90412-P0Z-000 5.20 mm (0.205 in.)
12. Disassemble the shaft and gears.

13. Reinstall the 27 x 47 x 5 mm thrust washer on the mainshaft.
SECONDARY SHAFT IDLER GEAR BEARING REPLACEMENT

Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
1. Check the bearing for wear, damage, and rough movement. If the bearing is
worn or damaged, go to step 2.
2. Place the secondary shaft idler gear in a vise with soft jaws.
3. Remove the bearing (A) from the secondary shaft idler gear (B) with a
commercially available bearing puller (C).
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Fig. 398: Removing Bearing From Secondary Shaft Idler Gear

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4. Install the bearing on the secondary shaft idler gear with the special tools and a
press.
Fig. 399: Installing Bearing On Secondary Shaft Idler Gear

1ST GEAR ONE-WAY CLUTCH INSPECTION
1. Hold the 1st-hold clutch hub (A), and turn the 1st gear (B) in the direction
shown in Fig. 400 to be sure it turns freely. Also make sure the 1st gear does
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not turn in the opposite direction.
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Fig. 400: Holding 1st-hold Clutch Hub And Turning 1st Gear
2. If any problem occurs on the 1st gear one-way clutch, replace the 1st clutch
hub (C). The 1st gear one-way clutch is not available separately from the 1st
clutch hub.
1ST CLUTCH HUB REPLACEMENT
Driver 07749-0010000
Driver attachment 07947-6340500
1. Remove the 1st-hold clutch hub (A) from the 1st gear (B) with the special tools
and a press.
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Fig. 401: Removing 1st-Hold Clutch Hub From 1st Gear

2. Remove the 1st clutch hub (C) from the 1st gear, then install the new 1st clutch
hub in the 1st gear.
3. Install the 1st-hold clutch hub (A) in the 1st gear (B) with the special tools and
a press.
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Fig. 402: Installing 1st-Hold Clutch Hub In 1st Gear

CLUTCH DISASSEMBLY
Clutch spring compressor attachment 07LAE-PX40100 or 07HAE-PL50101

Clutch spring compressor bolt assembly 07GAE-PG40200 or 07GAE-
PG4020A
1. Remove the snap ring (A), then remove the clutch end plate, the clutch discs,
and the plates with a screwdriver (B).
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Fig. 403: Removing Snap Ring

2. Make reference marks on the 2nd clutch waved-plates on the 2006-07 model.
3. Remove the waved spring from the 3rd clutch (2003 model) and 4th clutch
(2003-2004 models).
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Fig. 404: Removing Waved Spring From 3rd Clutch (2003 Model) And 4th
Clutch (2003-04 Models)
4. Remove the disc spring from the 1st clutch, 5th clutch, 3rd clutch (2004-2007
models), and 4th clutch (2005-2007 models).
1ST CLUTCH
3RD CLUTCH (2004-2007 MODELS)
5TH CLUTCH (2003-2004 MODELS)
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Fig. 405: Removing Disc Spring (1st, 3rd And 5th Clutch)

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Fig. 406: Removing Disc Spring (4th And 5th Clutch)

5. Install the special tools on the clutch assembly.
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Fig. 407: Installing Special Tools On Clutch Assembly

6. Be sure the special tool (A) is adjusted to have full contact with the spring
retainer (B) on the 1st, 4th, and 5th clutches.
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Fig. 408: Adjusting Special To Have Full Contact With Spring Retainer
On 1st, 4th And 5th Clutches
7. Set the special tool (A) on the spring retainer (B) of the 2nd and 3rd clutches so
the special tool works on the clutch return spring (C).
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Fig. 409: Setting Special Tool On Spring Retainer Of 2nd And 3rd
Clutches
8. If either end of the special tool is set over an area of the spring retainer which
is unsupported by the return spring, the retainer may be damaged.
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Fig. 410: Inspecting Special Tools Proper Adjustment With Spring

Retainer
9. Compress the spring until the snap ring can be removed.
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Fig. 411: Removing Snap Ring Compressing Spring

10. Remove the snap ring (A). Then remove the special tools (B), spring retainer
(C), and return spring.
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11. Wrap a shop rag around the clutch drum (A), and apply air pressure to the fluid
passage to remove the piston (B). Place a finger tip on the other end while
applying air pressure.
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Fig. 413: Wrapping Shop Rag Around Clutch Drum And Applying Air
Pressure To Fluid Passage To Remove Piston
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CLUTCH INSPECTION
1st/1st-hold/2nd Clutch (2003-2005 Models)
1. Inspect the clutch piston and clutch piston check valve. If the clutch check
valve is loose or stuck damaged, replace the clutch piston.
Fig. 414: Inspecting 1st/1st-hold/2nd Clutch (2003-2005 Models)

2. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage.

3. Inspect the clutch discs, clutch plates, and clutch end plate for wear, damage,
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and discoloration.
If the clutch discs are worn or damaged, replace the discs as a set.
If the clutch plates are worn, damaged, or discolored, replace the plates as
a set.
If the clutch end plate is worn, damaged, or discolored, inspect the clutch
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance, then replace the clutch-end-plate.
If the 1st-hold clutch plate B is worn, damaged, or discoloration, inspect
the 1st-hold clutch plate B-to-top-disc clearance, then replace plate B.
1st/1st-hold/2nd Clutch (2006-07 Models)
valve is loose, stuck, or damaged, replace the clutch piston.
Fig. 415: Inspecting 1st/1st-hold/2nd Clutch Clutch (2006-07 Models)

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and discoloration. Inspect the 2nd clutch waved-plate phase difference on the
2006-07 model (see CLUTCH WAVED-PLATE PHASE DIFFERENCE
INSPECTION).
a set.
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance, then replace the clutch-end-plate.
If the 1st-hold clutch plate B is worn, damaged, or discolored, inspect the
1st-hold clutch plate B-to-top-disc clearance, then replace plate B.
3rd Clutch (2003 Model)
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Fig. 416: Inspecting 3rd Clutch (2003 Model)

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and discoloration.
a set.
end-plate-to-top-disc clearance, then replace the clutch end-plate.
3rd Clutch (2004-2007 Models)
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Fig. 417: Inspecting 3rd Clutch (2004-2007 Models)


and discoloration.
a set.
4th/5th Clutch (2003-2004 Models)
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Fig. 418: Inspecting 4th/5th Clutch (2003-2004 Models)

and discoloration.
a set.
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4th/5th Clutch (2005 Model)
Fig. 419: Inspecting 4th/5th Clutch (2005 Model)

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and discoloration.
a set.
4th/5th Clutch (2006-07 Model)
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Fig. 420: Inspecting 4th/5th Clutch (2006-07 Model)

and discoloration.
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a set.
CLUTCH WAVED-PLATE PHASE DIFFERENCE INSPECTION
1. Place the clutch waved-plate (A) on a surface plate, and set a dial indicator (B)
on the waved-plate.
Fig. 421: Placing Clutch Waved-Plate On Surface Plate

2. Find the bottom (D) of a phase difference of the waved-plate, zero the dial
indicator and make a reference mark on the bottom of the waved-plate.
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3. Rotate the waved-plate about 72-degrees or 54-degrees apart from the bottom
while holding the waved-plate by its circumference. The dial indicator should
be at the top (E) of a phase difference. Do not rotate the waved-plate while
holding its surface, always rotate it with holding its circumference.
4. Read the dial indicator. The dial indicator reads the phase difference (C) of the
waved-plate between bottom and top.
Standard: 0.08-0.20 mm (0.003-0.008 in.)
5. Rotate the waved-plate about 54-degrees or 72-degrees. The dial indicator

should be at the bottom of a phase difference (F and H), and zero the dial
indicator.
6. Measure the phase difference at the other two tops (G and I) of the waved-plate
by following steps 3 thru 5.
7. If the two values of the three measurements are within the standard, the waved-
plate is OK. If the two values of the three measurements are out of the
standard, replace the waved-plate.
CLUTCH CLEARANCE INSPECTION

Clutch compressor attachment 07ZAE-PRP0100
1. Inspect the clutch piston, discs, plates, and end plate for wear and damage, and
inspect the 2nd clutch waved-plate phase difference (on 2006-07 model) (see
CLUTCH WAVED-PLATE PHASE DIFFERENCE INSPECTION), if
necessary.
2. Install the 1st-hold clutch piston in the 1st clutch piston, and install 1st/1st-hold
clutch piston in the 1st/1st-hold clutch drum. Do not install the O-rings on the
clutch pistons during inspection.
3. Starting with the 1st-hold clutch plate, alternately install the plates and discs,
then install the 1st-hold clutch plate B with the flat side down on the top disc.
4. Measure the 1st-hold clutch plate B-to-top-disc clearance with a feeler gauge
(A) while pressing the 1st-hold clutch plate B down. Take measurements in at
least three places, and use the average as the actual clearance.
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1st-hold Clutch Plate B-to-Top-Disc Clearance

Service Limit: 0.5-0.9 mm (0.020-0.035 in.)
Fig. 422: Measuring 1st-Hold Clutch Plate B-To-Top-Disc Clearance With

Feeler Gauge While Pressing 1st-Hold Clutch Plate B Down
5. If the clearance is out of standard, replace the 1st-hold clutch plates and discs
as a set, and recheck.
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6. Install the disc spring on the 1st-hold clutch plate B with the large end down.
Starting with the clutch plate, alternately install the plates and discs in the 1st
clutch drum, then install the clutch-end-plate with the flat side down on the top
disc. Install the snap ring to secure the clutch-end-plate.
7. Install the clutch pistons in the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutch drums. Do not
install the O-rings on the clutch pistons during inspection.
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Fig. 423: Installing Clutch Pistons In 2nd, 3rd, 4th And 5th Clutch Drums
8. Starting with the clutch plate, alternately install the clutch plates and discs in
the clutch drums, then install the clutch-end-plate with the flat side down on
the top disc. Install the snap ring to secure the clutch-end-plate.
9. Set a dial indicator (A) on the clutch-end-plate (B).
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Fig. 424: Setting Dial Indicator On Clutch-End-Plate

10. Zero the dial indicator with the clutch-end-plate lifted up to the snap ring (C).
11. Release the clutch-end-plate to lower the clutch-end-plate, then put the special
tool on the end-plate (A).
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Fig. 425: Releasing Clutch-End-Plate To Lower Clutch-End-Plate

12. Press the special tool down with 39 N (4 kgf, 9 lbf) (B) using a force gauge,
and read the dial indicator (C). The dial indicator reads the clearance (D)
between the clutch-end-plate and top disc (E). Take measurements in at least
three places, and use the average as the actual clearance.
13. Only for the 2nd clutch on the 2006-07 model: Press the special tool down with
150-160 N (15-16 kgf, 33-35 lbf) (B) using a force gauge, and read the dial
indicator (C). The dial indicator reads the clearance (D) between the clutch-
end-plate and top disc (E). Take measurements in at least three places, and use
the average as the actual clearance.
Clutch-End-Plate-to-Top Disc Clearance Service Limit:
2003-2005 Models
1st clutch: 1.1-1.3 mm (0.043-0.051 in.)

2nd clutch: 0.7-0.9 mm (0.028-0.035 in.)
3rd clutch: 0.7-0.9 mm (0.028-0.035 in.)
4th clutch: 0.55-0.75 mm (0.022-0.030 in.)
5th clutch: 0.55-0.75 mm (0.022-0.030 in.)
2006-07 Model
1st clutch: 1.1-1.3 mm (0.043-0.051 in.)

2nd clutch: 0.85-1.05 mm (0.033-0.041 in.)
3rd clutch: 0.7-0.9 mm (0.028-0.035 in.)
4th clutch: 0.7-0.9 mm (0.028-0.035 in.)
5th clutch: 0.7-0.9 mm (0.028-0.035 in.)
14. If the clearance is out of the service limit, select a new clutch-end-plate from
1ST CLUTCH END PLATES, 2ND CLUTCH END PLATES, 3RD
CLUTCH END PLATES (2003 model), 3RD CLUTCH END PLATES
(2004-2007 models) and 4TH and 5TH CLUTCH END PLATES .
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Fig. 426: Selecting Clutch-End-Plate

1ST CLUTCH END PLATES

Mark Part Number Thickness
1 22551-P7W-003 3.1 mm (0.122 in.)
2 22552-P7W-003 3.2 mm (0.126 in.)
3 22553-P7W-003 3.3 mm (0.130 in.)
4 22554-P7W-003 3.4 mm (0.134in.)
5 22555-P7W-003 3.5 mm (0.138 in.)
6 22556-P7W-003 3.6 mm (0.142 in.)
7 22557-P7W-003 3.7 mm (0.146 in.)
8 22558-P7W-003 3.8 mm (0.150 in.)
9 22559-P7W-003 3.9 mm (0.154 in.)
2ND CLUTCH END PLATES

1 22551-PY4-003 2.1 mm (0.083 in.)
2 22552-PY4-003 2.2 mm (0.087 in.)
3 22553-PY4-003 2.3 mm (0.091 in.)
4 22554-PY4-003 2.4 mm (0.094 in.)
5 22555-PY4-003 2.5 mm (0.098 in.)
6 22556-PY4-003 2.6 mm (0.102 in.)
7 22557-PY4-003 2.7 mm (0.106 in.)
8 22558-PY4-003 2.8 mm (0.110 in.)
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9 22559-PY4-003 2.9 mm (0.114 in.)
3RD CLUTCH END PLATES (2003 model)

1 22556-P7T-003 3.1 mm (0.122 in.)
2 22557-P7T-003 3.2 mm (0.126 in.)
3 22558-P7T-003 3.3 mm (0.130 in.)
4 22559-P7T-003 3.4 mm (0.134 in.)
6 22551-P7T-003 2.6 mm (0.102 in.)
7 22552-P7T-003 2.7 mm (0.106 in.)
8 22553-P7T-003 2.8 mm (0.110 in.)
9 22554-P7T-003 2.9 mm (0.114 in.)
0 22555-P7T-003 3.0 mm (0.118 in.)
3RD CLUTCH END PLATES (2004-2007 models)

1 22551-RAY-A01 2.1 mm (0.083 in.)
2 22552-RAY-A01 2.2 mm (0.087 in.)
3 22553-RAY-A01 2.3 mm (0.091 in.)
4 22554-RAY-A01 2.4 mm (0.094 in.)
5 22555-RAY-A01 2.5 mm (0.098 in.)
6 22556-RAY-A01 2.6 mm (0.102 in.)
7 22557-RAY-A01 2.7 mm (0.106 in.)
8 22558-RAY-A01 2.8 mm (0.110 in.)
9 22559-RAY-A01 2.9 mm (0.114 in.)
10 22560-RAY-A01 3.0 mm (0.118 in.)
11 22561-RAY-A01 3.1 mm (0.122 in.)
4TH and 5TH CLUTCH END PLATES

1 22561-P7T-003 2.1 mm (0.083 in.)
2 22562-P7T-003 2.2 mm (0.087 in.)
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3 22563-P7T-003 2.3 mm (0.091 in.)

4 22564-P7T-003 2.4 mm (0.094 in.)
5 22565-P7T-003 2.5 mm (0.098 in.)
6 22566-P7T-003 2.6 mm (0.102 in.)
7 22567-P7T-003 2.7 mm (0.106 in.)
8 22568-P7T-003 2.8 mm (0.110 in.)
9 22569-P7T-003 2.9 mm (0.114 in.)
15. Install the new clutch-end-plate, and recheck the clearance. If the thickest
clutch-end-plate is installed, but the clearance is still over the service limit,
replace the clutch discs and plates.
CLUTCH REASSEMBLY
Clutch spring compressor attachment 07LAE-PX40100 or 07HAE-PL50101

Clutch spring compressor bolt assembly 07GAE-PG40200 or 07GAE-
PG4020A
1. Soak the clutch discs thoroughly in ATF for a minimum of 30 minutes.

2. Install the new O-rings (A) on the clutch piston.
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Fig. 427: Installing New O-Rings On Clutch Piston

3. Install the clutch pistons in the clutch drums while applying pressure and
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rotating to ensure proper seating. Do not pinch the O-ring.
Fig. 428: Installing Clutch Pistons In Clutch Drums Applying Pressure

And Rotating To Ensure Proper Seating
4. Install the return spring (A) and spring retainer (B), and position the snap ring
(C) on the spring retainer.
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Fig. 429: Installing Return Spring And Spring Retainer

5. Install the special tools.
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Fig. 430: Installing Special Tools

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6. Set the special tool (A) over the spring retainer (B), and make sure the special
tool is adjusted to have full contact with the spring retainer on the 1st, 4th, and
5th clutches.
Fig. 431: Setting Special Tool Over Spring Retainer

7. Set the special tool (A) on the spring retainer (B) of the 2nd clutch so the tool
works on the clutch return spring (C).
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Fig. 432: Setting Special Tool Over Spring Retainer Of 2nd Clutch
8. If either end of the special tool is set over an area of the spring retainer that is
unsupported by the return spring, the retainer may be damaged.
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Fig. 433: Inspecting Special Tools Proper Adjustment With Spring

Retainer
9. Set the special tool (A) on the spring retainer (B) of the 3rd clutch so the
special tool works on the clutch return spring (C).
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Fig. 434: Setting Special Tool On Spring Retainer Of 3rd Clutch

10. If either end of the special tool is not set over the clutch return spring end (A),
the retainer may be damaged,
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Fig. 435: Properly Setting Special Tool

11. Compress the return spring until the snap ring can be installed.
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Fig. 436: Compressing Return Spring Until Snap Ring Is Installed

12. Install the snap ring with the snap ring pliers.
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Fig. 437: Installing Snap Ring With Snap Ring Pliers

13. Remove the special tools.
14. Install the waved spring in the 3rd clutch (2003 model) and 4th clutch (2003-
2004 models).
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Fig. 438: Installing Waved Spring In 3rd Clutch (2003 Model) And 4th
Clutch (2003-2004 Models)
15. Install the disc spring in the 1st clutch, 5th clutch, 3rd clutch (2004-2007
models), and 4th clutch (2005-2007 models).
1ST CLUTCH
3RD CLUTCH (2004-2007 MODELS)
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Fig. 439: Installing Disc Spring (1st, 5th And 3rd Clutch)

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Fig. 440: Installing Disc Spring (4th And 5th Clutch)

16. Make sure the inside of the clutch drum is free of dirt and other foreign
particles.
17. For 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutches:
Starting with the clutch plate, alternately install the clutch plates and discs in
the clutch drums, then install the clutch-end-plate with the flat side down on
the top disc.
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Fig. 441: Installing Clutch Plates And Discs In Clutch Drums (1st, 3rd, 4th
And 5th Clutches)
18. For 2nd clutch:
Starting with the 2nd clutch plate, alternately install the clutch flat-plates (4)
and discs (4) in the clutch drum, and alternately install the clutch waved-plates
(2) and discs (2), then install the clutch-end-plate with the flat side down on the
top disc.
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19. Install the snap ring with a screwdriver to secure the clutch-end-plate.
Fig. 442: Installing Snap Ring With Screwdriver

20. Check that the clutch piston moves by applying air pressure into fluid passage.
VALVE BODY AND ATF STRAINER INSTALLATION
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1. Install the main separator plate (E) and three dowel pins on the torque
converter housing (F).
Fig. 443: Installing Main Separator Plate And Dowel Pins

2. Install the ATF pump drive gear (G), driven gear (H), and ATF pump driven
gear shaft (I). Install the ATF pump driven gear with it grooved and chamfered
side facing down.
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Fig. 444: Installing ATF Pump Drive Gear, Driven Gear And ATF Pump
Driven Gear Shaft
3. Install the torque converter check valve (J) and spring (K) in the main valve
body (L), then install the main valve body.
4. Make sure the ATF pump drive gear (G) rotates smoothly in the normal
operating direction, and the ATF pump driven gear shaft (I) moves smoothly in
the axial and normal operating direction.
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Fig. 445: Making Sure ATF Pump Drive Gear Rotates Smoothly
5. If the ATF pump drive gear and ATF pump driven gear shaft do not move
smoothly, loosen the main valve body bolts. Realign the ATF pump driven
gear shaft, and retighten the bolts to the specified torque, then recheck. Failure
to align the ATF pump driven gear shaft correctly will result in a seized ATF
pump drive gear or ATF pump driven gear shaft.
6. Make sure that the one check ball (M) and the cooler check valve (N) are in the
main valve body, then install the cooler check valve spring (O) on the cooler
check valve.
7. Install the regulator separator plate (P) and two dowel pins.
8. Install the new O-ring on the stator shaft (Q), and install it and stator shaft stop
(R).
9. Install the regulator valve body (S) (eight bolts).
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10. Install the servo separator plate (T) and two dowel pins.
11. Install the selector control shaft (U) in the torque converter housing along with
the manual valve.
Fig. 446: Installing Selector Control Shaft In Torque Converter Housing

12. Install the detent arm (V) and arm shaft (W) in the main valve body (L), then
hook the detent arm spring (X) to the detent arm.
13. Install the servo body (Y) (five bolts).
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14. Install the top accumulator separator plate (Z) and two dowel pins, then install
the top accumulator body (AA) (seven bolts).
15. Install the new O-ring on the ATF strainer (BB), and install it in the top
accumulator body (two bolts).
16. Install the servo detent base (CC) (two bolts).
17. Install the accumulator body (DD) (seven bolts).
18. Install the 8 x 198 mm pipe, and three 8 x 85 mm pipes in the regulator valve
body.
19. Install two 8 x 180.5 mm pipes, and two 8 x 62 mm pipes in the top
accumulator body.
20. Install the 8 x 220 mm pipe in the servo body.
21. Install the 10 x 60 mm pipe in the accumulator body.
22. Install shift solenoid valves A, B, C, and torque converter clutch solenoid valve
(D) with the new O-rings.
SHAFT ASSEMBLY AND HOUSING INSTALLATION
1. Install the differential assembly (A) in the torque converter housing (B).
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Fig. 447: Installing Differential Assembly

2. If the reverse selector hub is press-fitted type, join the mainshaft (C),
countershaft (D), and secondary shaft (E) together, then install them in the
torque converter housing.
3. If the reverse selector hub in not press-fitted type, install the countershaft,
mainshaft, and secondary shaft in the torque converter housing, then install the
countershaft 5th gear and reverse selector hub on the countershaft.
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4. Turn the shift fork shaft so the large chamfered hole is facing the fork bolt
hole.
Fig. 448: Turning Shift Fork Shaft

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5. Install the shift fork (F) and reverse selector (G) together on the shift fork shaft
and countershaft (D). Install the reverse selector in the direction shown.
6. Secure the shift fork to the shift fork shaft with the lock bolt and a new lock
washer (H), then bend the lock washer against the lock bolt head.
7. Install the needle bearing (I), countershaft reverse gear (J), and countershaft
2nd gear (K) on the countershaft.
8. Place the thrust washer (L) in the transmission housing.
Fig. 449: Placing Thrust Washer In Transmission Housing

9. Place the reverse idler gear (M) in the transmission housing, and slide it in the
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direction shown in Fig. 450.
Fig. 450: Placing Reverse Idler Gear In Transmission Housing

10. Align the spring pin (A) on the selector control shaft (B) with the transmission
housing groove (C) by turning the selector control shaft.
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Fig. 451: Aligning Spring Pin On Selector Control Shaft With

Transmission Housing Groove
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11. Install three dowel pins (D) and a new gasket (E) on the torque converter
housing (F).
12. Place the transmission housing (G) on the torque converter housing, then
install the transmission housing mounting bolts along with the harness clamp
bracket (H) and transmission hangers (I).
13. Tighten the mounting bolts in two or more steps in a crisscross pattern.
14. Install the new O-ring on the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (J), then
install it in the transmission housing.
15. Engage the reverse idler gear with the countershaft reverse gear and mainshaft
reverse gear. Then install the needle bearings (A), reverse idler gear shaft (B),
and thrust washer (C) in the reverse idler gear, and install the reverse idler gear
shaft holder (D) on the transmission housing.
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Fig. 452: Installing Needle Bearing, Idler Gear Shaft And Thrust Washer
In Reverse Idler Gear
END COVER, 3RD GEAR, IDLER GEAR, AND 3RD CLUTCH INSTALLATION

Mainshaft holder 07GAB-PF50101 or 07GAB-PF50100
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1. Install the park lever (A) and park lever stop (B), on the selector control shaft
(C), then install the lock bolt (D) with a new lock washer (E). Do not bend the
lock tab of the lock washer until step 28.
Fig. 453: Installing Park Lever And Park Lever Stop

2. Lubricate the following parts with ATF:

Splines of the countershaft, the park gear, and the old locknut.
Threads of the countershaft and the old locknut.
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Old conical spring washer.

3. Install the park gear (A) using the old locknut (B) and a collar (C). Hold the
park pawl (D) against the park gear, then tighten the old locknut until the shaft
splines come out over the park gear splines.
NOTE: Do not use an impact wrench.

Countershaft locknut has left-hand threads.
Fig. 454: Installing Park Gear Using Old Locknut And Collar
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4. Remove the locknut and collar.

5. Install the thrust needle bearing (A), needle bearing (B), 3rd gear (C), thrust
needle bearing (D), 31 x 63.5 mm splined washer (E), 3rd clutch assembly (F),
and old conical spring washer (G) on the countershaft (H). Tighten the old
locknut (I) to 226 N.rm (23.0 kgf.m, 166 lbf.ft).
NOTE: Use a torque wrench to tighten the locknut. Do not use

an impact wrench.
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Fig. 455: Installing Thrust Needle Bearing

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6. Set the dial indicator (A) to the countershaft 3rd gear(B).
Fig. 456: Setting Dial Indicator To Countershaft 3rd gear

7. Measure the countershaft 3rd gear axial clearance in at least three places, while
moving the countershaft 3rd gear (A). Use the average as the actual clearance.
If the clearance is out of standard, select the appropriate 31 x 63.5 mm splined

washer in step 16.
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Standard: 0.015-0.045 mm (0.0006-0.0018 in.)
Fig. 457: Moving Countershaft 3rd Gear

8. Remove the locknut and conical spring washer.

9. Remove the 3rd clutch assembly (A) with the special tool and a commercially
available 3/8" -16 slide hammer (B).
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Fig. 458: Removing 3rd Clutch Assembly

10. Remove the parts that were installed in step 5.

11. Install the special tool onto the mainshaft.
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Fig. 459: Installing Special Tool Onto Mainshaft

12. Lubricate the following parts with ATF:

Splines of the mainshaft 3rd gear and secondary shaft idler gear.
Threads of the mainshaft and secondary shaft.
Threads of the old mainshaft and secondary shaft locknuts.
Old conical spring washer.
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13. Install the mainshaft 3rd gear (A) and the old conical spring washer (B) on the
mainshaft (C). Tighten the old locknut (D) to seat the 3rd gear to 226 N.m
(23.0 kgf.m, 166 lbf.ft).

an impact wrench.
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Fig. 460: Installing Mainshaft 3rd Gear And Old Conical Spring Washer
On Mainshaft
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14. Install the secondary shaft idler gear (E) and the old conical spring washer (F)
on the secondary shaft (G). Tighten the old locknut (H) to seat the secondary
shaft idler gear to 226 N.m (23.0 kgf.m, 166 lbf.ft).
NOTE: Use a torque wrench to tighten the locknut. Do not

use an impact wrench.
Secondary shaft locknut has left-hand threads.
15. Remove the old locknuts and old conical spring washers from the mainshaft
and secondary shaft.
16. If the 3rd gear axial clearance is out of standard (measured in step 7), measure
the difference of the 31 x 63.5 mm splined washer, and select the appropriate
splined washer from SPLINED WASHER, 31 x 63.5 mm .
Fig. 461: Measuring Difference Of Splined Washer

SPLINED WASHER, 31 x 63.5 mm
Mark Part Number Difference
A 90520-P7W-000 3.503 mm (0.1379 in.)
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2007 Honda Accord
B 90521-P7W-000 3.490 mm (0.1374 in.)

C 90522-P7W-000 3.477 mm (0.1369 in.)
D 90523-P7W-000 3.464 mm (0.1364 in.)
17. Install the thrust needle bearing (A), needle bearing (B), 3rd gear (C), thrust
needle bearing (D), and 31 x 63.5 mm splined washer (E) on the countershaft
(F).
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Fig. 462: Installing Thrust Needle Bearing

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18. Wrap the shaft splines with tape to prevent O-ring damage, then install new O-
rings (G).
19. Remove the tape, then install the 3rd clutch assembly (H), and old conical
spring washer (I). Tighten the old locknut (J) to 226 N.m (23.0 kgf.m, 166
lbf.ft).

an impact wrench.
20. Remove the old locknut and old conical spring washer from the countershaft.
21. Lubricate the threads of each shaft, the new locknuts, and new conical spring
washers with ATF.
22. Install the new conical spring washers (A) in the direction shown in Fig. 463,
and install the new locknuts (B).
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Fig. 463: Installing New Conical Spring Washers

23. Tighten the locknuts to 167 N.m (17.0 kgf.m, 123 lbf.ft).
NOTE: Use a torque wrench to tighten the locknuts. Do not

use an impact wrench.
Countershaft and secondary shaft locknuts have
left-hand threads.
24. Remove the special tool from the mainshaft.

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25. Stake each locknut into its shaft using 3.5 mm punch.
Fig. 464: Staking Each Locknut Into Its Shaft Using Punch
26. Set the park lever in P position, then verify that the park pawl (A) engages the
park gear (B).
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Fig. 465: Verifying Park Pawl Engages Park Gear

27. If the park pawl does not engage fully, check the distance between the pawl
shaft (C) and the park lever roller pin (D) (see PARK LEVER STOP
INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT).
28. Tighten the lock bolt (E), and bend the lock tab of the lock washer (F) against
the lock bolt head.
29. Install the new gasket (A) on the transmission housing, and install the two
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dowel pins (6) and new O-rings (C) over the top of the ATF feed pipes.
Fig. 466: Installing New Gasket On Transmission Housing

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30. Install the end cover (D), and install the 16 bolts, connector bracket (E) and
harness holder bracket (F).
31. Tighten the bolts in two or more steps in a crisscross pattern.
32. Install the new O-ring on the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (G), then
install it in the end cover.
33. Install the 8 x 12 mm ATF feed pipe (A) with its filter side into the
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Fig. 467: Installing ATF Feed Pipe

34. Install the new gasket (B) in the mounting groove of the A/T clutch pressure
control solenoid valve C body (C) properly, then install them on the
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transmission housing. Do not pinch the gasket.

35. Install the new O-ring (D) on the ATF dipstick guide pipe (E), then install in
the transmission housing.
36. Place the new gasket (F) on the transmission housing, then install the 8 x 18
mm ATF feed pipes (G) with their filter side into the transmission housing.
37. Install the new O-rings (H) over the feed pipes, and install the 8 x 40 mm ATF
feed pipe (I).
38. Install the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B (J) and the
harness clamp bracket (K).
39. Install the new gasket (A) on the transmission housing, then install the 8 x 14
mm dowel pin (B), 10 x 25.5 mm ATF feed pipe (C), and new O-ring (D) over
the feed pipe. Install the ATF passage body (E).
Fig. 468: Installing Gasket On Transmission Housing

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40. Install the ATF line (A) on the ATF passage body (B) with the line bolt and
new sealing washers (C). Secure the ATF line with the 6 mm bolt on the
harness clamp bracket (D).
Fig. 469: Installing ATF Line On ATF Passage Body With Line Bolt And
Sealing Washers
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41. Install the ATF line (E) and hose (F) on the torque converter housing with the
line bolt and new sealing washers (G).
42. Connect the ATF hose to the line, and secure the hose with hose clamp (H).
43. Set the selector control shaft to the N position by turning the control shaft.
NOTE: Do not squeeze the end of the selector control shaft

tips together when turning the shaft. If the tips are
squeezed together it will cause a faulty shift position
signal or position due to the play between the selector
control shaft and the switch. The clearance (A) between
selector control shaft tips is 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
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Fig. 470: Setting Selector Control Shaft To N Position Turning Control

Shaft
44. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts
(B) on the transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) feeler
gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade or equivalent to

hold the switch in the N position.
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Fig. 471: Aligning Cutouts On Rotary-Frame With Neutral Positioning

Cutouts On Transmission Range Switch
45. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft
(B) while holding it in the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade (C).
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Fig. 472: Installing Transmission Range Switch On Selector Control Shaft

In N Position
46. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold
it in the N position. Do not move the transmission range switch when
tightening the bolts. Remove the feeler gauge.
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Fig. 473: Tightening Bolts On Transmission Range Switch Holding In N

Position
47. Connect the transmission range switch connector (A) securely, then secure the
switch harness on the end cover, harness cover bracket (B), and the clamp
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bracket (C).
Fig. 474: Connecting Transmission Range Switch Connector

48. Install the transmission range switch cover (D).

49. Connect the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (A), and
install the ground terminal (B) and harness clamp (C) on the connector bracket
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(D).
Fig. 475: Connecting 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch

Connector
50. Install the new O-ring (E) on the ATF temperature sensor (F), then install the
sensor in the end cover.
51. Connect the sensor connector (G), and install it on the connector bracket.
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Secure the sensor harness (H) on the end cover.

52. Install the dipstick in the dipstick guide pipe.
A/T DIFFERENTIAL
2003-2005 Models:
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Fig. 476: Exploded View Of A/T Differential (2003-2005 Models)

2006-07 Model:
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Fig. 477: Exploded View Of A/T Differential (2006-07 Model)

BACKLASH INSPECTION
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1. Install both axles into the differential, and place the axles on V-blocks (A).
Fig. 478: Placing Axles On V-Blocks

2. Measure the backlash of the pinion gears (B) with a dial indicator (C).
Standard: 0.05-0.15 mm (0.002-0.006 in.)
3. If the backlash is out of standard, replace the differential carrier.

DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Inspect and adjust the carrier bearing preload whenever the
differential carrier is replaced.
1. Remove the final driven gear (A) from the differential carrier (B). The final
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driven gear bolts have left-hand threads.
Fig. 479: Removing Final Driven Gear From Differential Carrier (2003-
2005 Models)
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Fig. 480: Removing Final Driven Gear From Differential Carrier (2006-07
Model)
2. Install the final driven gear on the differential carrier in the direction shown.
Tighten the bolts to 101 N.m (10.3 kgf.m, 74.5 lbf.ft) in a crisscross pattern in
two or more steps.
CARRIER BEARING REPLACEMENT
Attachment, 45 x 55 mm 07MAD-PR90100
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NOTE: The bearing and outer race should be replaced as a set.

Inspect and adjust the bearing preload whenever
bearing is replaced.
Check the bearing for wear and rough rotation. If the
bearing is OK, removal is not necessary.
1. Remove the carrier bearing (A) with a commercially available bearing puller
(B), bearing separator (C), and stepper adapter (D).
Fig. 481: Removing Carrier Bearing

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2. Install the carrier bearing with the special tool using the small end and a press
until it bottoms. Press the bearing on securely so there is no clearance between
the bearing and the differential carrier.
Fig. 482: Installing Carrier Bearing With Special Tool

OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
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Driver 07749-0010000
Seal driver attachment 07GAD-PG40101 or07GAD-PG40100
Oil seal driver attachment 07JAD-PH80101
1. Remove the oil seal from the transmission housing.
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Fig. 483: Removing Oil Seal From Transmission Housing

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2. Remove the oil seal from the torque converter housing.
Fig. 484: Removing Oil Seal From Torque Converter Housing

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3. Install the new oil seal (A) in the transmission housing with the special tools.
Fig. 485: Installing Oil Seal In Transmission Housing

4. Install the oil seal (A) in the torque converter housing with the special tools.
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Fig. 486: Installing Oil Seal In Torque Converter Housing

CARRIER BEARING OUTER RACE REPLACEMENT

Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 78 x 80 mm 07NAD-PX40100
Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD4010K(2006-07 model)
NOTE: The bearing and bearing outer race should be replaced

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as a set.
Replace the bearing with a new one whenever the outer
race is replaced.
Do not use shim(s) on the torque converter housing
side.
Adjust bearing preload after replacing the bearing and
outer race.
Coat all parts with ATF during installation.
1. Remove the bearing outer race (A), thrust washer (B), and thrust shim (C) from
the transmission housing (D) by heating the housing to about 212F (100C)
with a heat gun (E). Do not heat the housing to more than 212F (100C).
NOTE: Let the transmission housing cool to room temperature

before installing the bearing outer race.
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Fig. 487: Removing Bearing Outer Race, Thrust Washer And Thrust
Shim From Transmission Housing
2. Remove the bearing outer race (A) and thrust washer (B) from the torque
converter housing (C).
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Fig. 488: Removing Bearing Outer Race And Thrust Washer From
Torque Converter Housing
3. Install the thrust washer and the new bearing outer race in the torque converter
housing.
4. Drive the bearing outer race into the housing with the special tools.
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Fig. 489: Driving Bearing Outer Race Into Housing

5. Install the thrust shim (A), thrust washer (B), and the new bearing outer race
(C) in the transmission housing (D).
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Fig. 490: Installing Thrust Shim, Thrust Washer And Bearing Outer Race
6. Drive the bearing outer race into the housing with the special tools so there is
no clearance between the outer race, thrust washer, shim and housing.
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Fig. 491: Driving Bearing Outer Race Into Housing Into Housing
CARRIER BEARING PRELOAD INSPECTION
Driver 07749-0010000
Preload inspection tool 07HAJ-PK40201
2003-2005 Models
NOTE: If the transmission housing, torque converter housing,

differential carrier, tapered roller bearing, outer race, or
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thrust shim were replaced, the bearing preload must be

adjusted.
with a heat gun (E). Do not heat the housing to more than of 212F (100C).

before adjusting the bearing preload.
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2. Replace the tapered roller bearing when the outer race is to be replaced.
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3. Do not use a shim on the torque converter housing side.

4. Install the 81 mm thrust shim (A), thrust washer (B), and bearing outer race (C)
in the transmission housing (D).
If you replace the 81 mm thrust shim with a new one, use the same thickness
shim as the old one.
In Transmission Housing
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5. Drive in the outer race with the special tools.
Fig. 494: Driving Outer Race With Special Tools

6. Check that there is no clearance between the thrust washer, outer race, shim,
and transmission housing.
7. Install the differential assembly (A) in the torque converter housing (B), and
install the gasket (C) and dowel pins (D) on the housing.
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Fig. 495: Installing Differential Assembly

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8. Align the spring pin on the selector control shaft (E) with the transmission
housing groove.
9. Install the transmission housing (F), transmission hangers (G), and harness
clamp bracket (H) then tighten the bolts.
10. Rotate the differential assembly in both directions to seat the bearing.
11. Measure the starting torque of the differential assembly with the special tool, a
torque wrench (A) and socket (B) at normal room temperature in both
directions.
Standard
New bearing: 2.7-3.9 Nm (28-40 kgf.cm, 24-35 lbf.in.)
Reused bearings: 2.5-3.6 Nm (25-37 kgf.cm, 22-32 lbf.in.)
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Fig. 496: Measuring Starting Torque With Special Tool, Torque Wrench
And Socket
12. If the measurement is out of standard, remove the thrust shim and select the
thrust shim from THRUST SHIM, 81 mm . Install the new thrust shim and
recheck. To increase the starting torque, increase the thickness of the thrust
shim. To decrease the starting torque, decrease the thickness of the shim.
Changing the shim to the next size will increase or decrease starting torque
about 0.3-0.4 N.m (3-4 kgf.cm, 3-3 lbf.in.).
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THRUST SHIM, 81 mm
A 41438-P7T-700 2.05 mm (0.081 in.)
AA 41438-PGH-000 2.075 mm (0.082 in.)
B 41439-P7T-700 2.10 mm (0.083 in.)
BB 41439-PGH-000 2.125 mm (0.084 in.)
C 41440-P7T-700 2.15 mm (0.085 in.)
CC 41440-PGH-000 2.175 mm (0.086 in.)
D 41441-P7T-000 2.20 mm (0.087 in.)
DD 41441-PGH-000 2.225 mm (0.088 in.)
E 41442-P7T-000 2.25 mm (0.089 in.)
EE 41442-PGH-000 2.275 mm (0.090 in.)
F 41443-P7T-000 2.30 mm (0.091 in.)
FF 41443-PGH-000 2.325 mm (0.092 in.)
G 41444-P7T-000 2.35 mm (0.093 in.)
GG 41444-PGH-000 2.375 mm (0.094 in.)
H 41445-P7T-000 2.40 mm (0.094 in.)
HH 41445-PGH-000 2.425 mm (0.095 in.)
I 41446-P7T-000 2.45 mm (0.096 in.)
II 41446-PGH-000 2.475 mm (0.097 in.)
J 41447-P7T-000 2.50 mm (0.098 in.)
JJ 41447-PGH-000 2.525 mm (0.099 in.)
K 41448-P7T-000 2.55 mm (0.100 in.)
KK 41448-PGH-000 2.575 mm (0.101 in.)
L 41449-P7T-000 2.60 mm (0.102 in.)
LL 41449-PGH-000 2.625 mm (0.103 in.)
M 41450-P7T-000 2.65 mm (0.104 in.)
MM 41450-PGH-000 2.675 mm (0.105 in.)
N 41451-P7T-000 2.70 mm (0.106 in.)
NN 41451-PGH-000 2.725 mm (0.107 in.)
0 41452-P7T-000 2.75 mm (0.108 in.)
00 41452-PGH-000 2.775 mm (0.109 in.)
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2007 Honda Accord
P 41453-P7T-000 2.80 mm (0.110 in.)

PP 41453-PGH-000 2.825 mm (0.111 in.)
Q 41454-P7T-000 2.85 mm (0.112 in.)
QQ 41454-PGH-000 2.875 mm (0.113 in.)
R 41455-P7T-000 2.90 mm (0.114 in.)
RR 41455-PGH-000 2.925 mm (0.115 in.)
S 41456-P7T-000 2.95 mm (0.116 in.)
SS 41456-PGH-000 2.975 mm (0.117 in.)
T 41457-P7T-000 3.00 mm (0.118 in.)
TT 41457-PGH-000 3.025 mm (0.119 in.)
U 41458-P7T-000 3.05 mm (0.120 in.)
Driver 07749-0010000
Preload inspection tool 070AJ-0020101
2006-07 Models
NOTE: If the transmission housing, torque converter housing,

differential carrier, tapered roller bearing, outer race, or
thrust shim were replaced, the bearing preload must be
adjusted.
with a heat gun (E). Do not heat the housing to more than of 212F (100C).

before adjusting the bearing preload.
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2007 Honda Accord
2. Replace the tapered roller bearing when the outer race is to be replaced.
3. Do not use a shim on the torque converter housing side.
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4. Install the 85 mm thrust shim (A), thrust washer (B), and bearing outer race (C)
in the transmission housing (D). If you replace the 85 mm thrust shim with a
new one, use the same thickness shim as the old one.
In Transmission Housing
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5. Drive in the outer race with the special tools.
Fig. 499: Driving In Outer Race With Special Tool

6. Check that there is no clearance between the thrust washer, outer race, shim,
and transmission housing.
7. Install the differential assembly (A) in the torque converter housing (B), and
install the gasket (C) and dowel pins (D) on the housing.
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Fig. 500: Installing Differential Assembly In Torque Converter Housing

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8. Align the spring pin on the selector control shaft (E) with the transmission
housing groove.
9. Install the transmission housing (F), transmission hangers (G), and harness
clamp bracket (H) then tighten the bolts.
10. Rotate the differential assembly in both directions to seat the bearing.
11. Measure the starting torque of the differential assembly with the special tool, a
torque wrench (A) and socket (B) at normal room temperature in both
directions.
Standard
New bearing: 2.9-4.1 N.m (30-42 kgf.cm, 26-37 lbf.in.)
Reused bearings: 2.7-3.8 Nm (27-39 kgf.cm, 23-34 lbf.in.)
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Fig. 501: Measuring Starting Torque With Special Tool, Torque Wrench
And Socket
12. If the measurement is out of standard, remove the thrust shim and select the
thrust shim from THRUST SHIM, 85 mm . Install the new thrust shim and
recheck. To increase the starting torque, increase the thickness of the thrust
shim. To decrease the starting torque, decrease the thickness of the thrust shim.
Changing the shim to the next size will increase or decrease starting torque
about 0.3-0.4 N.m (3-4 kgf.cm, 2-3 lbf.in.).
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THRUST SHIM, 85 mm
A 41440-RGR-000 1.350 mm (0.053 in.)
B 41441-RGR-000 1.375 mm (0.054 in.)
C 41442-RGR-000 1.400 mm (0.055 in.)
D 41443-RGR-000 1.425 mm (0.056 in.)
E 41444-RGR-000 1.450 mm (0.057 in.)
F 41445-RGR-000 1.475 mm (0.058 in.)
G 41446-RGR-000 1.500 mm (0.059 in.)
H 41447-RGR-000 1.525 mm (0.060 in.)
I 41448-RGR-000 1.550 mm (0.061 in.)
J 41449-RGR-000 1.575 mm (0.062 in.)
K 41450-RGR-000 1.600 mm (0.063 in.)
L 41451-RGR-000 1.625 mm (0.064 in.)
M 41452-RGR-000 1.650 mm (0.065 in.)
N 41453-RGR-000 1.675 mm (0.066 in.)
0 41454-RGR-000 1.700 mm (0.067 in.)
P 41455-RGR-000 1.725 mm (0.068 in.)
Q 41456-RGR-000 1.750 mm (0.069 in.)
R 41457-RGR-000 1.775 mm (0.070 in.)
S 41458-RGR-000 1.800 mm (0.071 in.)
T 41459-RGR-000 1.825 mm (0.072 in.)
U 41460-RGR-000 1.850 mm (0.073 in.)
V 41461-RGR-000 1.875 mm (0.074 in.)
W 41462-RGR-000 1.900 mm (0.075 in.)
X 41463-RGR-000 1.925 mm (0.076 in.)
Y 41464-RGR-000 1.950 mm (0.077 in.)
Z 41465-RGR-000 1.975 mm (0.078 in.)
AA 41466-RGR-000 2.000 mm (0.079 in.)
AB 41467-RGR-000 2.025 mm (0.080 in.)
AC 41468-PGR-000 2.050 mm (0.081 in.)
AD 41469-RGR-000 2.075 mm (0.082 in.)
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AE 41470-RGR-000 2.100 mm (0.083 in.)

AF 41471-RGR-000 2.125 mm (0.084 in.)
AG 41472-RGR-000 2.150 mm (0.085 in.)
AH 41473-RGR-000 2.175 mm (0.086 in.)
Al 41474-RGR-000 2.200 mm (0.087 in.)
AJ 41475-RGR-000 2.225 mm (0.088 in.)
AK 41476-RGR-000 2.250 mm (0.089 in.)
AL 41477-RGR-000 2.275 mm (0.090 in.)
AM 41478-RGR-000 2.300 mm (0.091 in.)
AN 41479-RGR-000 2.325 mm (0.092 in.)
AO 41480-RGR-000 2.350 mm (0.093 in.)
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2003-07 BRAKES Conventional Brake Component - Accord (V6)
2003-07 BRAKES
Conventional Brake Component - Accord (V6)
Fig. 1: Identifying Component Location

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2007 Honda Accord
FRONT BRAKE PAD INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of

material composition, could be hazardous to your
health.
Avoid breathing dust particles.

Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake
assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
INSPECTION
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper
locations. Refer to LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS .
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Check the thickness of the inner pad (A) and outer pad (B). Do not include the
thickness of the brake pad backing plate.
Brake pad thickness:
Standard: 10.5-11.5 mm (0.41-0.45 in.)

Service limit: 1.6 mm (0.06 in.)
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Fig. 2: Checking Thickness Of Inner And Outer Pad

4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace all the brake
pads as a set.
REPLACEMENT
locations. refer to LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS .
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (B).
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Fig. 3: Removing Brake Hose Mounting Bolt

4. Remove the flange bolt (C) while holding the pin A with a wrench being
careful not to damage the pin boot, and pivot the caliper (D) up out of the way.
Check the brake hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
5. Remove the brake pads (A) and pad shims (B).
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Fig. 4: Removing Brake Pads And Pad Shims

6. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
7. Remove the pad retainers (A), and check the caliper pins for free movement.
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Fig. 5: Removing Pad Retainers

8. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and
cracks.
9. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks
10. Clean and install the pad retainers.
11. Apply a light coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the pad sides
of shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B), and to the other areas indicated by
the arrows.
Wipe excess paste off the pad shim and brake pads. Contaminated brake discs
and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep assembly paste off the brake discs and
pad material.
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Fig. 6: Applying Assembly Paste To Pad Sides Of Shims

12. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly.
Install the brake pads with the wear indicator (C) on the inside. The wear
indicator should be on the top of the pad.
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If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original
positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
13. Push in the piston (B) so the caliper will fit over the brake pads. Check the
brake fluid level. The brake fluid may overflow if the reservoir is too full.
Make sure the piston boot is in position to prevent damaging it when pivoting
the caliper down.
Fig. 7: Pushing In Piston

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14. Pivot the caliper (C) down into position. Install the flange bolt (D), and tighten
it to the specified torque while holding the pin A with a wrench being careful
not to damage the pin boot.
15. Install the brake hose mounting bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque.
Fig. 8: Installing Brake Hose Mounting Bolt

16. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.
NOTE: Engagement of the brake may require a greater pedal

stroke immediately after the brake pads have been
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replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake

pedal will restore the normal pedal stroke.
17. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or connections, and
retighten if necessary. Then test-drive the vehicle.
FRONT BRAKE DISC INSPECTION
RUNOUT
locations. refer to LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS .
3. Remove the brake pads (see Front Brake Pad Inspection and
Replacement ).
4. Inspect the brake disc surface for damage and cracks. Clean the brake disc
thoroughly, and remove all rust.
5. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque to hold the brake disc securely against the hub.
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Fig. 9: Installing Suitable Flat Washers And Wheel Nuts

6. Set up the dial gauge against the brake disc as shown in Fig. 9, and measure
the runout at 10 mm (3/8 in.) from the outer edge of the brake disc.
Brake disc runout:

7. If the brake disc is beyond the service limit, refinish the brake disc with an on-
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car brake lathe. The "Front brake Disc Lathe" offered by Snap-on Tools Co.
are approved for this operation.
Max. refinish limit: 21.0 mm (0.83 in.)
NOTE: If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for

refinishing, replace it.
A new disc should be refinished if its runout is greater
than 0.10 mm (0.004 in.).
THICKNESS AND PARALLELISM
locations. Refer to LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS .
3. Remove the brake pads (see Front Brake Pad Inspection and
Replacement ).
4. Using a micrometer, measure brake disc thickness at eight points,
approximately 45 apart and 10 mm (3/8 in.) in from the outer edge of the
brake disc.
Replace the brake disc if the smallest measurement is less than the max.
refinishing limit.
A/T model
Brake disc thickness:

Standard: 22.9-23.1 mm (0.90-0.91 in.)
Max. refinishing limit: 21.0 mm (0.83 in.)
M/T model
Brake disc thickness: Standard: 27.9-28.1 mm (1.10-1.11 in.)
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Brake disc parallelism: 0.015 mm (0.0006 in.) max.
NOTE: This is the maximum allowable difference between the

thickness measurements.
Fig. 10: Measuring Brake Disc Thickness

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5. If the smallest measurement is less than the max refinishing limit, replace the
brake disc.
6. If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for parallelism, refinish the brake
disc with an on-car brake lathe. The "Front Brake Disc Lathe" offered by Snap-
on Tools Co. are approved for this operation.
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER OVERHAUL

health.

cleaner.
Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these
items:
NOTE: Make sure that the caliper pins are installed correctly. The
upper and lower caliper pins are different. If the caliper pins
are installed in the wrong location, it will cause uneven tire
wear, vibration, and or uneven or rapid pad wear.
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid
gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
To prevent dripping brake fluid, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or
shop towels.
Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with
compressed air.
Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign
particles.
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Replace parts with new ones as specified in Fig. 11 .

Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter get in the brake fluid.
When reusing brake pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to
prevent loss of braking efficiency.
Do not reuse drained brake fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid
from an unopened container. Using a non-honda brake fluid can cause
corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
Coat the piston, piston seal groove, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or pads.
Replace all rubber parts with new ones whenever disassembled.
After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks,
interference, and twisting.
Fig. 11: Exploded View Of Front Brake Caliper Overhaul

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MASTER CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the
paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off
1. Remove the cable clamps from the body.
Fig. 12: Removing Cable Clamps From Body

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2. Remove the access panel (A), then remove the right strut brace (B).
Fig. 13: Removing Access Panel And Right Strut Brace

3. Remove the reservoir cap and brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.
4. Disconnect the brake fluid level switch connector
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Fig. 14: Disconnecting Brake Fluid Level Switch Connector

5. Disconnect the brake lines (B) from the master cylinder (C). To prevent spills,
cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
6. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (D) and washers.
7. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster (E). Be careful not to bend
or damage the brake lines when removing the master cylinder.
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8. Remove the rod seal (F) from the master cylinder or brake booster.
9. Install the master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Replace all the rubber parts with new ones whenever the master cylinder is
removed. Use a new rod seal on reassembly.
Coat the inner bore lip and outer circumference of the new rod seal with
the recommended seal grease in the master cylinder set.
Install the rod seal onto the master cylinder with its grooved side (G)
toward the master cylinder.
Check the brake pedal height and free play after installing the master
cylinder, and adjust it if necessary.
10. Bleed system, refer to BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING .
11. Spin the wheels to check for brake drag. See BRAKE BOOSTER
REPLACEMENT
BRAKE BOOSTER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the master cylinder (see Master Cylinder Replacement ).

2. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the brake booster (B).
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Fig. 15: Disconnecting Vacuum Hose From Brake Booster

3. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover.

4. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box mounting bolt (A), then remove the
under-hood fuse/relay box (B) from the body.
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Fig. 16: Removing Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Mounting Bolt

5. Remove the air cleaner assembly (A).
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Fig. 17: Removing Air Cleaner Assembly

6. Remove the primary and secondary brake lines from the hose clamp (A).
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Fig. 18: Removing Primary And Secondary Brake Lines From Hose
Clamp
7. Remove the lock pin (A) and the joint pin (B), then disconnect the yoke from
the brake pedal.
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Fig. 19: Removing Lock Pin And Joint Pin

8. Remove the brake booster mounting nuts (C).
9. Remove the brake booster (A) from the engine compartment.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the booster surfaces and

threads of the booster stud bolts.
Be careful not to bend or damage the brake lines.
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Fig. 20: Removing Brake Booster From Engine Compartment

10. Install the brake booster in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Adjust the pushrod length before installing the brake booster.
Use a new lock pin whenever installing.
After installing the brake booster and master cylinder, fill the reservoir
with new brake fluid, bleed the brake system, and adjust the brake pedal
height and free play.
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2003-07 BRAKES Conventional Brake Components - Accord
2003-07 BRAKES
Conventional Brake Components - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Identifying Conventional Brake Components Location

BRAKE SYSTEM INSPECTION AND TEST
Inspect the brake system components listed. Repair or replace any parts that are
leaking or damaged.
COMPONENT INSPECTIONS:
COMPONENT INSPECTIONS CHART

Component Procedure Also check for:
Look for damage or signs

of fluid leakage at:
Bulging seal at reservoir
Master Cylinder Reservoir or master cap. This is a sign of fluid
cylinder body. contamination.
Line, grommets and
their joints
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Between master
cylinder and booster
Line joints and banjo Bulging, twisted, or bent

Brake Hoses bolt connections lines.
Hoses and lines, also
inspect for twisting or
damage
Piston seal Seized or sticking caliper

Caliper
Banjo bolt pins.
connections
Bleed screw
Wheel Cylinder
Wheel Cylinder.
Line joints.
Bleed Screw.
ABS Modulator-Control
Unit Line joints
Modulator-control
unit
BRAKE SYSTEM TEST
Brake pedal sinks/fades when braking
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1. Set the parking brake, and start the engine , then turn off the A/C switch. Allow
the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature (radiator fan comes on
twice).
2. Attach a 50 mm (2 in.) piece of masking tape along the bottom of the steering
wheel, and draw a horizontal reference mark across it.
3. With the transmission M/T in Neutral position, A/T in P or N position, press
and hold the brake pedal lightly (about the same pressure needed to keep an
A/T-equipped vehicle from creeping), then release the parking brake.
4. While still holding the brake pedal, hook the end of the tape measure the brake
pedal, then pull the tape up to the steering wheel. Note the measurement
between the brake pedal and the reference mark on the steering wheel.
5. Apply steady pressure to the brake pedal for 3 minutes.
6. Watch the tape measure.
If the measurement increases 10 mm (3/8 in.) or less, the master cylinder
is OK.
If the measurement increases more than 10 mm (3/8 in.), replace the
master cylinder.
RAPID BRAKE PAD WEAR, VEHICLE VIBRATION (AFTER A LONG DRIVE), OR HIGH, HARD
BRAKE PEDAL
NOTE: Make sure that the caliper pins are installed correctly.
The upper and lower caliper pins are different. If the top and
bottom caliper pins are installed in the wrong location, it
will cause uneven tire wear, vibration, and or uneven or
rapid pad wear for proper caliper pin location: AKEBONO
type (see AKEBONO Type), NISSIN type (see NISSIN Type).
1. Drive the vehicle until the brakes drag or until the pedal is high and hard. This
can take 20 or more brake pedal applications during an extended test-drive.
2. With the engine running, raise the vehicle on a lift, and spin all four wheels by
hand.
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Is there brake drag at any of the wheels?

YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Look for other causes of the pad wear, high pedal, or vehicle
vibration.
3. Turn the engine off, pump the brake pedal to deplete the vacuum in the brake
booster, and then spin the wheels again to check for brake drag.

YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Replace the brake booster (see BRAKE BOOSTER
REPLACEMENT ).
4. Without removing the brake lines, unbolt and separate the master cylinder from
the booster, then spin the wheels to check for brake drag.

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Check the brake pedal position switch adjustment and pedal free
play (see BRAKE PEDAL AND BRAKE PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH ADJUSTMENT ).
5. Loosen the hydraulic lines at the master cylinder, then spin the wheels to check
for brake drag.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the master cylinder (see MASTER CYLINDER
REPLACEMENT ).
6. Loosen the bleed screws at each caliper or wheel cylinder, then spin the wheels
to check for brake drag.

YES - Disassemble and repair the caliper or wheel cylinder, on the wheel
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(s) with brake drag.

NO - Look for a bulging master cylinder cap seal, discolored or
contaminated brake fluid in the master cylinder, or damaged brake lines. If
any of these items are damaged, replace them. If all of these items are OK,
replace the ABS modulator-control unit (see ABS MODULATOR-
CONTROL UNIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
BRAKE PEDAL AND BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
PEDAL HEIGHT
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back
until it is no longer touching the brake pedal.
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Fig. 3: Turning Brake Pedal Position Switch Counterclockwise

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2. Lift up the carpet. At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height (B) from
the left side of the pedal pad (C).
Standard pedal height (with carpet removed):
M/T: 167 mm (6 9/16 in.)

A/T: 172 mm (6 13/16 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod in or out with pliers on
the knurled part of the push rod (B) until the standard pedal height from the
floor is reached. After adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the
pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
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Fig. 4: Loosening Pushrod Locknut

Brake Pedal Position Switch Clearance
4. Using on hand, lift up on the brake pedal, while doing step 4. Push in the brake
pedal position switch until its plunger is fully pressed (threaded end (A)
touching the pad (B) on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position
switch 45 clockwise to lock it. The gap between the brake pedal position
switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.03 in.) by locking
the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
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Fig. 5: Measuring Gap Between Brake Pedal Position Switch

5. Check the brake pedal free play.

PEDAL FREE PLAY
1. With the engine off, inspect the pedal free play (A) on the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the brake pedal by hand.
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Fig. 6: Inspecting Pedal Free Play On Pedal Pad

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2. If the pedal free play is out of specification, adjust the brake pedal position
switch (C). If the brake pedal free play is insufficient, it may result in excessive
brake drag.
PARKING BRAKE CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT
CHECK
1. Pull the parking brake lever (A) with 196 N (20 kgf, 44 lbf) of force to fully
apply the parking brake. The parking brake lever should be locked within the
specified number of clicks (B).
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Fig. 7: Pulling Parking Brake Lever With Force To Fully Apply Parking
Brake
2. Adjust the parking brake if the lever clicks are not within the specification.
ADJUSTMENT
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NOTE: After servicing the rear brake shoes, loosen the parking
brake adjusting nut, start the engine, and press the brake
pedal several times to set the self-adjusting brake before
adjusting the parking brake (with rear drum brake).
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper
locations (see LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS ).
2. Remove the center console (see CENTER CONSOLE
3. Release the parking brake lever fully.
4. With rear disc brake: Loosen the parking brake adjusting nut.
5. With rear disc brake: Remove the rear wheels.
6. With rear disc brake: Make sure the parking brake arm (A) on the rear brake
caliper contacts the brake caliper pin (B).
NOTE: The parking brake arm will only contact the brake
caliper pin when the parking brake adjusting nut is
loosened.
Fig. 8: Identifying Brake Caliper Contacts

7. Reinstall the center console (see CENTER CONSOLE
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Fig. 9: Pulling Parking Brake Lever Up One Click

8. Tighten the adjusting nut (A) until the parking brakes drag slightly when the
rear wheels are turned.
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Fig. 10: Tightening Adjusting Nut Until Parking Brakes Drag

9. Release the parking brake lever fully, and check that the parking brakes do not
drag when the rear wheels are turned. Readjust if necessary.
10. Pull the parking brake all the way up, and make sure the parking brakes are
fully applied.
11. Reinstall the center console (see CENTER CONSOLE
BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING
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NOTE: Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean Honda
DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened container.
Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and

shorten the life of the system.
Do not mix different brands of brake fluid; they may not

be compatible.
Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to
contaminate the brake fluid.
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage
the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it
off immediately with water.
The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the
MAX (upper) level mark at the start of the bleeding
procedure and checked after bleeding each brake
caliper. Add fluid as required.
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line
(A).
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Fig. 11: Making Sure Brake Fluid In Reservoir Is MAX Level Line
2. Attach a length of clear drain tube to the bleed screw.

3. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady
pressure.
4. Starting at the left-front, loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape
from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely.
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5. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown below until air
bubbles no longer appear in the fluid.
BLEEDING SEQUENCE:
Fig. 12: Bleeding Brake In Sequence

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Fig. 13: Identifying Front Brake System Bleeding

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Fig. 14: Identifying Rear Brake System Bleeding

6. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line.
BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 15: Brake System Indicator Circuit Diagram

PARKING BRAKE SWITCH TEST

2. Disconnect the connector (A) from the parking brake switch (B).
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Fig. 16: Disconnecting Connector From Parking Brake Switch

3. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and body ground.
With the brake lever up, there should be continuity.
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With the brake lever down, there should be no continuity.

BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH TEST
Check for continuity between the terminals (1 and 2) with the float in the down
position and in the up position.
Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down,
there should be continuity.
Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to the MAX (upper) level (A). With the float
up, there should be no continuity.
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Fig. 17: Checking Continuity Between Terminals

FRONT BRAKE PAD INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT

health.

cleaner.
INSPECTION-AKEBONO TYPE
3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not include
the thickness of the backing plate.
Standard: 10.5-11.5 mm (0.41-0.45 in.)

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Fig. 18: Checking Thickness Of Inner Pad

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Fig. 19: Checking Thickness Of Outer Pad

4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace all the front
brake pads as a set.
REPLACEMENT-AKEBONO TYPE
1. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder.

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4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A).
Fig. 20: Identify Brake Hose Mounting Bolt

5. Remove the flange bolt (B) while holding the caliper pin (C) with a wrench
being careful not to damage the pin boot (D), and pivot the caliper (E) up out
of the way. Check the brake hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
6. Remove the brake pads (A) and the pad shims (B).
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Fig. 21: Removing Pad Shims And Brake Pads

8. Remove the pad retainers (A), and check the caliper pin for free movement.
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cracks.
10. Check the brake disc for damage and cracks.
12. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of
shim outer pad shim C, inner pad shim B, both sides of inner pad shim A, the
back of brake pads (D), and to the other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe
excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads.
Contaminated brake discs and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep assembly
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paste off the brake discs and brake pad material.
Fig. 23: Applying Thin Coat Of M-77 Assembly Paste To Pad Side Of
Shim
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13. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pads with the
wear indicator (E) on top.
If you are reusing the brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their
original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
14. Push in the piston (B) so the caliper will fit over the brake pads. Check the
brake fluid level. The brake fluid may overflow if the reservoir is too full.
the caliper down.
Fig. 24: Pushing Piston So Caliper Will Fit Over Brake Pads
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16. Install the brake hose mounting bolt, and tighten it to the specified torque.
Fig. 25: Installing Brake Hose Mounting Bolt


18. Add brake fluid as needed.

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INSPECTION-NISSIN TYPE
locations (see ).
3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and out pad (C). Do not include
the thickness of the brake pad backing the plate.
Fig. 26: Removing Brake Hose Mounting Bolts A,B C, D

4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace all of the front
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REPLACEMENT-NISSAN TYPE

locations (see )
4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A)
Fig. 27: Identify Brake Hose Mounting Bolt

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2007 Honda Accord
5. Remove the flange bolt (B) while holding the caliper pin (C) with a wrench
being careful not to damage the pin boot (D), and pivot the caliper (E) up out
of the way. Check the bake hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
6. Remove the brake pads (A) and the pad shims (B).
Fig. 28: Removing Brake Pads (A) & Pad Shims (B)
8. Remove the pad retainers (A), and check the caliper pins for free movement.
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2007 Honda Accord

cracks.
12. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N08798-9010) to the pad sides of
shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B), and to the other areas indicated by
the arrows. Wipe excess paste off the pad shim and brake pads. Contaminated
brake discs and pads reduce stopping ability. Keep assembly paste off the
brake discs and pad Material.
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Fig. 30: Installing Brake Pads & Shims

13. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pads with the
wear indicator (C) on the inside. The wear indicator should be on the top of the
pad. If you are reusing the pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original
positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
14. Push in the piston (B) so the clipper will fit over the brake pads. Check the
brake fluid level. The brake fluid may over flow if the reservoir is too full.
the caliper down.
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Fig. 31: Identify Pushing Piston

16. Install the brake hose mounting bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque.
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Fig. 32: Identifying Brake Hose Mounting Bolt


replace as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal
will restore the normal pedal stroke.
18. Add bake fluid as needed.

FRONT BRAKE DISC INSPECTION
RUNOUT
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3. Remove the brake pads: AKEBONO type (see REPLACEMENT-
AKEBONO Type ), NISSIN type (see Replacement-NISSAN Type).
5. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque to hold the brake disc securely against the hub.
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Fig. 33: Installing Flat Washers And Wheel Nuts

6. Set up the dial gauge against the brake disc as shown above, and measure the
runout at 10 mm (3/8 in.) from the outer edge of the brake disc.
Brake disc runout:
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2007 Honda Accord

car brake lathe. The "Front Brake Disc Lathe" offered by Snap-on Tools Co.

refinishing, replace it (see step 3 on KNUCKLE/HUB
REPLACEMENT ).
A new disc should be refinished if its runout is
greater than 0.10 mm (0.004 in.).
3. Remove the brake pads: AKEBONO type (see REPLACEMENT-
AKEBONO Type ), NISSIN type (see Replacement-NISSAN Type).
4. Using a micrometer, measure brake disc thickness at eight points,
approximately 45 apart and 10 mm (3/8 in.) in from the outer edge of the
brake disc. Replace the brake disc if the smallest measurement is less than the
max. refinishing limit.
Standard: 22.9-23.1 mm (0.90-0.91 in.)


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Fig. 34: Measuring Brake Disc Thickness

on Tools Co. are approved for this operation.).

refinishing, replace it (see KNUCKLE/HUB
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REPLACEMENT ).
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER OVERHAUL

health.

cleaner.
AKEBONO TYPE
items:
The upper and lower caliper pins are different. If the caliper
pins are installed in the wrong location, it will cause uneven
tire wear, vibration, and or uneven or rapid pad wear.
shop towels.
compressed air.
particles.
Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets in the brake fluid.
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2007 Honda Accord

from an unopened container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause
Coat the pistons, piston seals grooves, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
Fig. 35: Identifying Front Brake Caliper Overhaul

NISSIN TYPE
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items:
The upper and lower caliper pins are different. If the caliper
pins are installed in the wrong location, it will cause uneven
tire wear, vibration, and or uneven or rapid pad wear.
shop towels.
compressed air.
particles.
Replace parts with new ones as specified in .
Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets in the brake fluid.
Coat the pistons, piston seals grooves, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
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Fig. 36: Identifying Front Brake Caliper Overhaul

MASTER CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the cable clamps from the body.
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Fig. 37: Removing Cable Clamps From Body

2. Remove the access panel (A), then remove the right strut brace (B).
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Fig. 38: Removing Access Panel And Right Strut Brace

3. Remove the reservoir cap and brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.
4. Disconnect the brake fluid level switch connector (A).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 39: Disconnecting Brake Fluid Level Switch Connector

5. Disconnect the brake lines (B) from the master cylinder (C). To prevent spills,
cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
6. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (D) and washers.
7. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster (E). Be careful not to bend
or damage the brake lines when removing the master cylinder.
8. Remove the rod seal (F) from the master cylinder.
9. Install the master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these
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items:
Replace all the rubber parts with new ones whenever the master cylinder is
removed.
Use a new rod seal on reassembly.
Coat the inner bore lip and outer circumference of the new rod seal with
the Shin-Etsu silicone grease (P/N 08798-9013).
Install the rod seal onto the master cylinder with its grooved side (G)
toward the master cylinder.
Check the brake pedal height and free play after installing the master
cylinder, and adjust it if necessary (see BRAKE PEDAL AND BRAKE
PEDAL POSITION SWITCH ADJUSTMENT ).
10. Bleed system (see BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING ).
11. Spin the wheels to check for brake drag.
MASTER CYLINDER INSPECTION
NOTE: Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt
and other foreign particles.
Do not try to disassemble the master cylinder
assembly. Replace the master cylinder assembly with a
new part if necessary.
Do not allow dirt or foreign matter to contaminate the
brake fluid.
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Fig. 40: Inspecting Master Cylinder

BRAKE BOOSTER TEST

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FUNCTIONAL TEST
1. With the engine stopped, press the brake pedal several times to deplete the
vacuum reservoir, then press the brake pedal hard, and hold it for 15 seconds.
If the brake pedal sinks, either the master cylinder is bypassing internally, or
the brake system is leaking (see Brake Hose and Line Inspection).
2. Start the engine with the brake pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the
vacuum booster is operating normally. If the brake pedal height does not vary,
do the leak test.
3. Do the brake system test. (see Brake System Inspection and Test).
LEAK TEST
1. Press the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the
brake pedal height does not vary while pressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum
booster is OK. If the pedal rises go to step 6. If it does not rise go to step 2.
2. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds. Turn the ignition switch off, and
wait 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using normal pressure.
When the pedal is first pressed it should be low. On consecutive applications,
the pedal height should gradually rise. Does the pedal rise on each consecutive
application? If it rises the booster is OK. If it does not go to step 3.
3. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (A) at the booster . The check valve
(B) is built into the hose.
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Fig. 41: Disconnecting Brake Booster Vacuum Hose At Booster

4. Start the engine, and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If no
vacuum is available, the check valve is not working properly. Replace the
brake booster vacuum hose and check valve, and retest. If vacuum is found, go
to step 5.
5. With the engine off, reconnect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
6. Start the engine, and then pinch the brake booster vacuum hose between the
check valve and the booster.
7. Turn the ignition switch off, and wait 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several
times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low.
On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise.
If the brake pedal position does not vary, inspect the seal between the
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2007 Honda Accord
master cylinder and booster. If the seal is OK, replace the brake booster.
If the pedal position varies, replace the brake booster vacuum hose/check
valve assembly.
BRAKE BOOSTER REPLACEMENT
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio and navigation system,
then write down the audio presets.
3. Remove the master cylinder (see MASTER CYLINDER
REPLACEMENT ).
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the brake booster (B).
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Fig. 42: Disconnecting Vacuum Hose From Brake Booster

5. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover.

6. Disconnect (+) and (-) terminals (A) of the under-hood fuse/relay box (B).
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Fig. 43: Disconnecting Terminals Of Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box

7. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box mounting bolt (C), then remove the
under-hood fuse/relay box from the body.
8. Remove the air cleaner assembly (A).
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Fig. 44: Removing Air Cleaner Assembly

9. Remove the primary and secondary brake lines from the hose clamp (A).
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Fig. 45: Removing Primary And Secondary Brake Lines From Hose
Clamp
10. Remove the lock pin (A) and the joint pin (B), then disconnect the yoke from
the brake pedal.
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Fig. 46: Removing Lock Pin And Joint Pin

11. Remove the brake booster mounting nuts (C).
12. Remove the brake booster (A) from the engine compartment.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the booster surfaces and

threads of the booster stud bolts.
Be careful not to bend or damage the brake lines.
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Fig. 47: Removing Brake Booster From Engine

Compartment
13. Install the brake booster in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Use a new lock pin whenever installing.
After installing the brake booster and master cylinder, fill the reservoir
with new brake fluid, bleed the brake system (see BRAKE SYSTEM
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BLEEDING ), and adjust the brake pedal height and free play (see
BRAKE PEDAL AND BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
ADJUSTMENT ).
REAR BRAKE PAD INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT

health.

cleaner.
INSPECTION
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not include
the thickness of the backing plate.
Standard: 8.9-9.1 mm (0.35-0.36 in.)

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Fig. 48: Checking Thickness Of Inner Pad And Outer Pad

4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace all the rear
REPLACEMENT

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4. Remove the flange bolts (C) while holding the pin A and pin B with a wrench
being careful not to damage the pin boots, and remove the caliper (D). Check
the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
Fig. 49: Removing Flange Bolts Holding Pin A And B

5. Remove the pad shim (A) and brake pads (B).
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Fig. 50: Removing Pad Shim And Brake Pads

6. Remove the pad retainers (A).
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7. Clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust and check for grooves and
cracks.
9. Install the pad retainers.
10. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to both sides of
the pad shim (A), the back of brake pads (B), and the other areas indicated by
the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads.
Contaminated brake discs or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep assembly paste
off the brake discs and pad material.
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Fig. 52: Applying Thin Coat Of M-77 Assembly Paste To Pad Shim
11. Install the brake pads and pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the
wear indicator (C) on the inside bottom.
If you are reusing the brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their
original positions to prevent a momentary loss of braking efficiency.
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2007 Honda Accord
12. Rotate the caliper piston (C) clockwise into the cylinder, then align the cutout
(D) in the piston with the tab (E) on the inner pad by turning the piston back.
Lubricate the boot with rubber grease to avoid twisting the piston boot. If the
piston boot is twisted, back it out so it is positioned properly.
Fig. 53: Rotating Caliper Piston Clockwise Into Cylinder

13. Install the caliper. Install the flange bolts (F), and tighten it to the specified
torque while holding the pin A and pin B with a wrench. Be careful not to
damage the pin boots.
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REAR BRAKE DISC INSPECTION
RUNOUT
3. Remove the brake pads (see REAR BRAKE PAD INSPECTION AND
REPLACEMENT ).
5. Install suitable flat washers (A) and wheel nuts, and tighten the wheel nuts to
the specified torque to hold the brake disc securely against the hub.
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Fig. 54: Installing Flat Washers And Wheel Nuts

6. Set up the dial gauge against the brake disc as shown above, and measure the
runout at 10 mm (3/8 in.) from the outer edge of the brake disc.
Brake disc runout:

car brake lathe. The "Front Brake Disc Lathe" offered by Snap-on Tools Co.
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2007 Honda Accord


refinishing, replace it (see step 3 on HUB
REPLACEMENT-DISC BRAKE ).
A new disc should be refinished if its runout is
greater than 0.10 mm (0.004 in.).
3. Remove the brake pads (see REAR BRAKE PAD INSPECTION AND
REPLACEMENT ).
4. Using a micrometer, measure the brake disc thickness at eight points, about 45
apart and 10 mm (3/8 in.) in from the outer edge of the brake disc. Replace the
brake disc if the smallest measurement is less than the max. refinishing limit.

Standard: 8.9-9.1 mm (0.35-0.36 in.)

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Fig. 55: Measuring Disc Thickness

on Tools Co. are approved for this operation.
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2007 Honda Accord

refinishing, replace it (see step 3 on HUB
REPLACEMENT-DISC BRAKE ).
REAR BRAKE CALIPER OVERHAUL

health.

cleaner.
items:
shop towels.
compressed air.
Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign
particles.
Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets into the brake fluid.
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2007 Honda Accord
Coat the piston, piston seal groove, and caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
Fig. 56: Identifying Rear Brake Caliper Overhaul

REAR DRUM BRAKE INSPECTION

health.
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2007 Honda Accord

cleaner.
NOTE: Contaminated brake linings or drums reduce stopping

ability.
Block the front wheels before jacking up the rear of the
vehicle.
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the rear brake drum (see step 5 on HUB
REPLACEMENT-DRUM BRAKE ).
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Fig. 57: Removing Rear Brake Drum

4. Check the wheel cylinder (A) for leakage.
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Fig. 58: Checking Wheel Cylinder Leakage

5. Check the brake linings (B) for cracking, glazing, wear, and contamination.
6. Measure the brake lining thickness (C). Measurement does not include brake
shoe thickness.
Brake lining thickness:
Standard: 4.5 mm (0.18 in.)
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2007 Honda Accord

7. If the brake lining thickness is less than the service limit, replace the brake
shoes as a set.
8. Check the hub bearing for smooth operation. If it requires servicing, replace it
(see HUB REPLACEMENT-DRUM BRAKE ).
9. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum with inside vernier calipers.
Drum inside diameter:
Standard: 219.9-220 mm (8.657-8.661 in.)

Service limit: 221 mm (8.701 in.)
Fig. 59: Measuring Inside Diameter Of Brake Drum With Inside Vernier
Calipers
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2007 Honda Accord
10. If the inside diameter of the brake drum is more than the service limit, replace
the brake drum.
11. Check the brake drum for scoring, grooves, corrosion, and cracks.
REAR BRAKE SHOE REPLACEMENT
Brake spring installer 07LAF-SM40200

health.

cleaner.
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
locations (see LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS
3. Release the parking brake, and remover the brake drum (see KNUCKLE/HUB
BEARING UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
4. Unhook the upper return spring (A) from the rearward shoe using the special
tool (B).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 60: Unhooking Upper Return Spring From Rearward Shoe Using
Special Tool
5. Remove the tension pins (A) by pushing each retainer spring (B) and turning
the pins.
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Fig. 61: Removing Tension Pins

6. Lower the brake shoe assembly, and remove the lower return spring (A). Be
careful not to damage the wheel cylinder dust cover.
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Fig. 62: Removing Lower Return Spring

7. Remove the brake shoe assembly from the backing plate, and disassemble the
brake shoe assembly.
8. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever, and remove
the brake shoe.
9. Remove the U-clip (A), and wave washer (B), and separate the parking brake
lever (C) from the brake shoe (D).
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Fig. 63: Removing U-Clip And Wave Washer

REASSEMBLY
1. Apply a thin coat of rubber grease onto the sliding surfaces as illustrated
below. Wipe off any excess assembly paste. Do not get assembly paste on the
brake lining material.
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Fig. 64: Applying Thin Coat Of 44 Ma Assembly Paste Onto Sliding

Surfaces
2. Install the parking brake lever (A) to the rearward brake shoe (B), and secure it
with the wave washer (C), and a new U-clip (D). Pinch the U-clip securely to
prevent it from coming off.
NOTE: Install the wave washer with its convex side facing
outside.
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Fig. 65: Installing Parking Brake Lever To Rearward Brake Shoe

3. Connect the parking brake cable to the rearward brake shoe.

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2007 Honda Accord
4. Install the self-adjuster lever (C) and self-adjuster spring (D) on the front side
brake shoe (E).
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Fig. 66: Installing Self-Adjuster Lever And Self-Adjuster Spring

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2007 Honda Accord
5. Assemble the brake shoes with the clevis A, adjuster bolt (F), clevis B, upper
return spring (G), and lower return spring (H).
NOTE: Fully turn the adjuster bolt into the clevis A.
6. Apply a thin coat of Molykote 44 MA assembly paste onto the sliding surfaces
as illustrated below. Wipe off any excess assembly paste. Do not get assembly
paste on the brake lining material.
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Fig. 67: Applying Thin Coat Of Assembly Paste Onto Sliding Surface
7. Install the brake shoe assembly on the backing plate fitting the top of the brake
shoes onto the wheel cylinder pistons and the bottom of the brake shoes onto
the locating plate.
8. Install the tension pins (A), and secure with the retainer springs (B) by pushing
it and turning each pin.
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Fig. 68: Installing Tension Pins

9. Hook the end (A) of the upper return spring (B) with the brake spring installer.
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Fig. 69: Hooking End Of Upper Return Spring With Special Tool
10. Install the brake drum and rear wheel.

11. If the wheel cylinder has been removed, bleed the brake system (see BRAKE
SYSTEM BLEEDING ).
12. Press the brake pedal several times to set the self-adjusting brake.
13. Adjust the parking brake (see PARKING BRAKE CHECK AND
ADJUSTMENT ).
REAR WHEEL CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
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2007 Honda Accord
NOTE: Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage

To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or
shop towels.
Use only a Honda wheel cylinder special bolt.
1. Remove the brake shoes (see REAR BRAKE SHOE REPLACEMENT ).

2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
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Fig. 70: Disconnecting Brake Line From Wheel Cylinder

3. Remove the bolt (C) and the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
4. Apply Cemedienne 366E sealant or equivalent (D) between the wheel cylinder
and backing plate (E), and install the wheel cylinder.
5. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal.
6. Bleed the brake system (see BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING ).
7. Do the parking brake inspection and adjustment (see Parking Brake Check
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2007 Honda Accord
and Adjustment).
8. Spin the wheels to check for brake drag.
9. Check for leaks at the line joint and bleed screw, and retighten if necessary.
BRAKE PEDAL REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect the brake pedal position switch connector (E).
Fig. 71: Removing Lock Pin And Pin

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2007 Honda Accord
2. Remove the brake pedal bracket mounting bolt (C) and nuts (D).
3. Remove the lock pin (A) and pin (B).
4. Remove the brake pedal with bracket (F).
5. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: Replace the lock pin whenever the brake pedal is

replaced.
6. Do the brake pedal and brake pedal position switch adjustment (see BRAKE
PEDAL AND BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH ADJUSTMENT ).
BRAKE HOSE AND LINE INSPECTION
1. Inspect the brake hoses for damage, deterioration, leaks, interference, and
twisting.
2. Check the brake lines for damage, rusting, and leaks. Also check for bent brake
lines.
3. Check for leaks at hose and line joints and connections, and retighten if
necessary.
4. Check the master cylinder and ABS modulator-control unit for damage and
leakage.
NOTE: Replace the brake hose clip whenever the brake hose is
serviced.
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Fig. 72: Inspecting Brake Hose And Line

BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt
and other foreign particles.
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2007 Honda Accord
Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do

so.
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage
the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off
To prevent dripping, cover disconnecting line joints
with rags or shop towels.
1. Replace the brake hose (A) if the hose is twisted, cracked, or if it leaks.
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Fig. 73: Replacing Brake Hose

2. Disconnect the brake hose from the brake line (B) using a 10 mm flare-nut
wrench (C).
3. Remove and discard the brake hose clip (A) from the brake hose (B).
Fig. 74: Removing Brake Hose Clip From Brake Hose

4. Remove the banjo bolt (C), and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper.
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2007 Honda Accord
5. Remove the brake hose from the knuckle.

6. Install the brake hose (A) on the damper with flange bolts (B) first, then
connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt (C) and new sealing
washers (D).
Fig. 75: Installing Brake Hose On Damper With Flange Bolts

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2007 Honda Accord

7. Install the brake hose (A) on the upper brake hose bracket (B) with a new brake
hose clip (C).
Fig. 76: Installing Brake Hose On Upper Brake Hose Bracket

8. Connect the brake line (D) to the brake hose.
9. After installing the brake hose, bleed the brake system (see BRAKE SYSTEM
BLEEDING ).
10. Do the following checks:
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2007 Honda Accord
Check the brake hose and line joint for leaks, and tighten if necessary.
Check the brake hoses for interference and twisting.
PARKING BRAKE CABLE REPLACEMENT
Fig. 77: Exploded View Of Parking Brake Cable

NOTE: The parking brake cable must not be bent or distorted. This
will lead to stiff operation and premature cable failure. Refer
to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure.
WITH REAR DISC BRAKE
1. Release the parking brake lever fully.

2. Remove the clip (A) from the rear brake caliper.
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Fig. 78: Removing Clip A From Rear Brake Caliper

3. Remove the parking brake cable from the rear brake caliper.
4. Reinstall the parking brake cable in the reverse order of removal, and note
these items:
Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the rear hub
and the inside of the brake disc.
Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces on the brake disc
and inside of the wheel.
Adjust the parking brake (see PARKING BRAKE CHECK AND
ADJUSTMENT ). Apply the parking brake firmly 10 times then adjust it
again.
WITH REAR DRUM BRAKE
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2007 Honda Accord
1. Remove the brake drum and shoes, and disconnect the parking brake cable
from the brake shoe (see Rear Brake Shoe Replacement).
2. Remove the flange bolts (A) and parking brake cable (B) from the backing
plate (C).
Fig. 79: Removing Flange Bolts And Parking Brake Cable

3. Reinstall the parking brake cable in the reverse order of removal, and note
these items:
Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surface of the rear hub
and the inside of the brake drum.
Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces on the brake drum
and inside of the wheel.
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2007 Honda Accord
Adjust the parking brake (see Parking Brake Check and Adjustment).
Apply the parking brake firmly 10 times then adjust it again.
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2007 Honda Accord SE
2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Bumpers - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT
Bumpers - Accord (V6)
REAR BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014
'06-07 MODEL 2-DOOR
NOTE: Have an assistant help you when removing and

installing the rear bumper.
Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to
avoid damage when prying components.
Take care not to scratch the rear bumper and body.
Put on gloves to protect your hands.
1. Remove the rear bumper as shown in .

2. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the rear bumper engages the hooks of the side spacers and
upper brackets on both sides securely.
Check the clips for damage or stress-whitening, and replace them with
new one.
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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 11:03:36
Fig. 1: Identifying Rear Bumper ('06-07 Model 2-Door)


'06-07 MODEL 4-DOOR

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1. Remove the rear bumper as shown in .

new one.
Fig. 2: Identifying Rear Bumper ('06-07 Model 4-Door)

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Bumpers - Accord
Bumpers - Accord
FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

2-DOOR

installing the front bumper.
Take care not to scratch the front bumper and body.
1. Remove the front bumper as shown in Fig. 1.

Make sure the front bumper engages the hooks of the side spacers and
upper beams on both sides securely.
Check if the clip is damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace
it with new one.
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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 11:03:02
Fig. 1: Removing Front Bumper (2-Door)

4-DOOR

installing the front bumper.
Take care not to scratch the front bumper and body.
1. Remove the front bumper as shown below.

Make sure the front bumper engages the hooks of the side spacers and
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upper beams on both sides securely.

it with new one.
Fig. 2: Removing Front Bumper (4-Door)

LOWER GRILLE REPLACEMENT

'06-07 MODEL
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NOTE: Put on gloves to protect your hands.

Take care not to scratch the front bumper.
1. Remove the front bumper (see FRONT BUMPER

2. Remove the license plate.
3. Remove the bolts (A) and screw (B), then remove the license plate base (C)
from the front bumper (D).
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Fig. 3: Removing License Plate Base

4. From the back of the front bumper (A), remove the screws (B), securing the
front bumper lower grille (C).
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Fig. 4: Securing Front Bumper Lower Grille

5. Detach the hooks (A) on the bottom of the front bumper lower grille (B), then
remove the grille from the front bumper (C).
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Fig. 5: Removing Grille From Front Bumper

6. Install the grille in the reverse order of removal, and note these items: Push the
hooks into place securely.
FRONT BUMPER SIDE COVER REPLACEMENT
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KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * Available through the American Honda Tool and
Equipment Program; call 888-424-6857.
'06-07 MODELS

Take care not to scratch the front bumper.
1. Remove the front bumper (see FRONT BUMPER

2. From the back of the front bumper (A), release the hooks (B), and pull out the
front bumper side cover (C), then remove the cover.
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Fig. 6: Removing Front Bumper Side Cover (4-Door)

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Fig. 7: Removing Front Bumper Side Cover (2-Door)

3. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and push the hooks into place
securely.
REAR BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
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KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 *Available through the American Honda Tool and
2-DOOR

1. Remove the rear bumper as shown in Fig. 8.

new ones.
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Fig. 8: Removing Rear Bumper (2-Door)

KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014*Available through the American Honda Tool and
4-DOOR

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1. Remove the rear bumper as shown in Fig. 9.

it with new one.
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Fig. 9: Removing Rear Bumper (4-Door)

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2007 Honda Accord
CABIN AIR FILTERS Dust & Pollen Filter - Accord & Accord Hybrid
CABIN AIR FILTERS
Dust & Pollen Filter - Accord & Accord Hybrid
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
NOTE: Manufacturer's terminology for this filter is dust and pollen

filter.
CABIN AIR FILTER
Removal & Installation
1. Open the glove box. Remove the damper from the glove box then let the glove
box hang down. See Fig. 1.
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Fig. 1: Releasing Glove Box Damper

2. Remove the dust and pollen filter assembly from the evaporator case. See Fig.
2.
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Fig. 2: Removing Filter Assembly From Evaporator Case

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3. Remove the filter from the housing and replace the filter. See Fig. 3.
4. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Ensure arrow marks on edge of
filter point in direction of air flow. Make sure that there is no air leaking out of
the evaporator.
Fig. 3: Removing Filter From Housing

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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Catalytic Converter System - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Catalytic Converter System - Accord (V6)
DTC CODES
DTC CHART
DTC Description
DTC P0420 Rear Bank Catalyst System Efficiency
Below Threshold (Bank 1) (2003-2004
models)
DTC P0430 Front Bank Catalyst System Efficiency
models)
DTC P0420 Rear Bank Catalyst System Efficiency
models)
DTC P0430 Front Bank Catalyst System Efficiency
models)
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0420: REAR BANK CATALYST SYSTEM EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD (BANK 1)
(2003-2004 MODELS); DTC P0430: FRONT BANK CATALYST SYSTEM EFFICIENCY BELOW
THRESHOLD (BANK 2) (2003-2004 MODELS)
NOTE: Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any
on-board snapshot, and review the general
troubleshooting information (see GENERAL
If some of the DTCs listed below are stored at the same
time as DTC P0420 and/or P0430*, troubleshoot those
DTCs first, then recheck for DTC P0420 and/or P0430*.
P0137, P0138, P0157, P0158: Secondary HO2S (Sensor

2)
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P0141.P0161: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2) heater
Poor quality fuel can cause these DTCs.

Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to the
front bank (Bank 2).

3. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or
neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
4. Test-drive under these conditions:
Engine coolant temperature above 158F (70C)
Transmission in 5th gear (A/T in D position)
Vehicle speed between 50-55 mph (80-88 km/h) with cruise control set
Drive about 2 minutes, decelerate for at least 4 seconds with the throttle
completely closed, then maintain 55 mph (88 km/h) for 20 minutes with
cruise control set
5. Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P0420 and/or P0430* in the DTCs
MENU with the HDS.
Does the screen indicate EXECUTING?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step and recheck.

6. Continue test driving until a result comes on.
MENU with the HDS.
Does the screen indicate FAILED?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - If the screen indicates PASSED, intermittent failure, system is OK at this

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time. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes
on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step and recheck.

9. Replace the WU-TWC (see WARM UP THREE WAY CATALYTIC
CONVERTER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION).
11. Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS.
12. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure (see ECM/PCM IDLE LEARN
PROCEDURE ).
14. Test-drive for about 10 minutes, continually changing the vehicle speed.
15. Check the CATA MON TEMP in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is the temperature OK?

NO - Go to step 13 and recheck.

Engine coolant temperature above 158F(70C)
Vehicle speed between 50-55 mph (80-88 km/h) with cruise control set
cruise control set
MENU with the HDS.

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19. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS.
Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs Indicated?
YES - Go to the indicated DTC TROUBLESHOOTING

NO - Go to step 20.
MENU with the HDS.
Does the screen indicate PASSED?

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, check the fuel quality. If the screen
indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes on. If the screen
indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 13 and recheck.
DTC P0420: REAR BANK CATALYST SYSTEM EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD (BANK 1)
(2005-2006 MODELS); DTC P0430: FRONT BANK CATALYST SYSTEM EFFICIENCY BELOW
THRESHOLD (BANK 2) (2005-2006 MODELS)
time as DTC P0420 and/or P0430*, troubleshoot those
DTCs first, then recheck for DTC P0420 and/or P0430*.
P0137, P0138, P0157, P0158, P2270, P2271, P2272*,

P2273*: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2)
P0141, P0161: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2) heater

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Poor quality fuel can cause these DTCs.

Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to the
front bank (Bank 2).

Vehicle speed between 45-75 mph (72-120 km/h) for 5 minutes or more
with cruise control set
Maintain the vehicle speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 5 minutes or more
MENU with the HDS.

YES - Go to step 6.

MENU with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - If the screen indicates PASSED, intermittent failure, system is OK at this
time. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes
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on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 4 and recheck.

9. Replace the WU-TWC (see WARM UP THREE WAY CATALYTIC
CONVERTER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION).
PROCEDURE ).
14. Test-drive for about 10 minutes, continually changing the vehicle speed.
15. Check the CATA MON TEMP in the DATA LIST with the HDS.

Vehicle speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 5 minutes or more with cruise
control set
MENU with the HDS.

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Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated?
YES - Go to the indicated DTC TROUBLESHOOTING

NO - Go to step 20.
MENU with the HDS.

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, check the fuel quality. If the screen
indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes on. If the screen
indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 13 and recheck.
WARM UP THREE WAY CATALYTIC CONVERTER
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
FRONT
1. Remove the condenser fan shroud (see RADIATOR AND FAN

REPLACEMENT ).
2. Disconnect the front air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor connector and front secondary
heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) connector.
3. Remove the front WU-TWC.
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Fig. 1: Removing Front WU-TWC

4. Install the front WU-TWC, and tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three steps.
5. Install the other parts in the reverse order of removal.
REAR
1. Remove the intermediate shaft (see INTERMEDIATE SHAFT

REMOVAL ).
2. Disconnect the rear air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor connector and rear secondary
heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) connector.
3. Remove the rear WU-TWC bracket, then remove the rear WU-TWC.
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Fig. 2: Removing Rear WU-TWC

4. Install the rear WU-TWC, and tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three steps.
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2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Catalytic Converter System - Accord
Catalytic Converter System - Accord
DTC CODES
DTC INDEX
DTC Description
DTC P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below
Threshold (2003-2004 models)
DTC P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below
Threshold (2005-2006 models)
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0420: CATALYST SYSTEM EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD '03-04 MODELS)
NOTE: If some of the DTCs listed below are stored at the same
time as DTC P0420, troubleshoot them first, then
recheck for DTC P0420.
P0137, P0138: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2)
P0141: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2) heater
Poor quality fuel may cause this DTC.

ETC SENSOR above 158 F (70 C)
A/T in D position (M/T in 5th gear)
Vehicle speed between 50 mph (80 km/h) and 55 mph (88 km/h) with
cruise control set
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cruise control set
5. Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P0420 in the DTCs MENU with the
HDS.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, got to step 4 and
recheck. If the screen indicates PASSED, intermittent failure, the system
is OK at this time. If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step 8.
HDS.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - If the screen indicates PASSED, intermittent failure, system is OK at
this time. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result
comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 4 and
recheck.
9. Replace the TWC (see EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER
REPLACEMENT ).
PROCEDURE ).
14. Test-drive for about 10 minutes, varying the vehicle speed.
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15. Check the CATA MONITOR CONDITION in the DATA LIST with the HDS.

ECT SENSOR above 158 F (70 C)
Vehicle speed between 50 mph (80 km/h) and 55 mph (88 km/h) with
cruise control set
cruise control set
HDS.

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the secondary

H02S (sensor 2) and the ECM/PCM, then to step1.
NO - Go to step 20.
HDS.
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YES - Troubleshooting is complete. If any other Temporary DTCs or

DTCs were indicated in step 19, got to the indicated DTC's
troubleshooting.
NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose
terminals at the secondary HO2S (sensor 2) and the ECM/PCM, then go to
step 1. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result
comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 16.
DTC P0420: CATALYST SYSTEM EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD ('05-07 MODELS)
TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION .
time as DTC P0420, troubleshoot them first, then
recheck for DTC P0420.
P0137, P0138: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2)
P0141: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2) heater
Poor quality fuel may cause this DTC.

ETC SENSOR 1 above 158 F (70 C)
Vehicle speed between 45-75 mph (72 - 120 km/h) for 5 minutes or more
Maintain the vehicle speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 5 minutes or more
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HDS.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, got to step 4 and
recheck. If the screen indicates PASSED, intermittent failure the system is
OK at them time. If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step 8.
HDS.
YES - Go to step 8.
recheck.
9. Replace the TWC; '05 model (see EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER
REPLACEMENT , '06-07 models (see 2006 MODEL ).
PROCEDURE ).
14. Test-drive for about 10 minutes, varying the vehicle speed.
15. Check the CATA MONITOR CONDITION in the DATA LIST with the HDS.

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ECT SENSOR 1 above 158 F (70 C)
Vehicle speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 5 minutes or more with cruise
control set
HDS.

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the secondary

HO2S (sensor 2) and the ECM/PCM, the got to step 1.
NO - Go to step 20.
HDS.

DTCs were indicated in step 19 go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
terminals at the secondary HO2S (sensor 2) and the EMC/PCM, then go to
step 1. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result
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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 TRANSMISSION Clutch - Accord (V6)
Clutch - Accord (V6)
SPECIAL TOOLS

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Fig. 2: Identifying Clutch Components

SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
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SELF-ADJUSTING CLUTCH (SAC)
Function
On ordinary clutches, the clutch pedal load increases as the clutch disc wears. The
self-adjusting clutch is designed so the clutch pedal load will not increase even
when the clutch disc wears. This is done by automatically adjusting the fulcrum of
the diaphragm spring in accordance with the wear of the clutch disc. The clutch
pedal load stays consistent even when the clutch disc is worn.
Construction
The self-adjusting clutch consists of a pressure plate, a sensor spring, a diaphragm

spring, an adjusting ring, three coil springs, a pressure plate cover, and a
compensation spring. They are riveted together and must not be disassembled. If
there is problem with any part of the pressure plate or clutch disc, they must be
replaced as a set.
Fig. 3: Identifying Clutch Construction

Operation
1. When the clutch disc wears slightly.
As the clutch begins to wear, the release load increases slightly. However, this
does not affect operation of the clutch because the release load does not exceed
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that of the sensor.
Fig. 4: Identifying Clutch Disc Wears Slightly

2. When the clutch disc wears considerably.

The sensor spring starts to deflect as the clutch disc is worn further and the
release load exceeds that of the sensor.
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Fig. 5: Identifying Clutch Disc Wears Considerably (Sensor Spring Starts

To Deflect)
The fulcrum then moves following the amount of sensor spring deflection. As this
takes place, the fulcrum of the diaphragm spring is adjusted, keeping the release
load consistent.
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Fig. 6: Identifying Clutch Disc Wears Considerably (Fulcrum Moves Following

Amount Of Sensor Spring Deflection)
CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH
INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Check the clutch pedal position switch (see CRUISE

CONTROL COMBINATION SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
Check the clutch interlock switch (see CLUTCH
INTERLOCK SWITCH TEST ).
Remove the driver's floor mat before adjusting the
clutch pedal.
The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear.
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If there is no clearance between the master cylinder

piston and pushrod, the release bearing will be held
against the diaphragm spring, which can result in
clutch slippage or other clutch problems.
1. Loosen the clutch pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the clutch
pedal position switch (B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C).
Fig. 7: Loosening Clutch Pedal Position Switch Locknut

2. Loosen the clutch pushrod locknut (D), and turn the pushrod (E) in or out to
get the specified height (F), stroke (G), free play (H), and disengagement
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height (I) at the clutch pedal.

Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130-140 mm (5.12-5.51 in.)
Clutch Pedal Free
Play: 10-18 mm (0.39-0.71 in.)

Clutch Pedal Height: 191 mm (7.52 in.)
Clutch Pedal
Disengagement
Height: 90.5 mm (3.56 in.)

3. Tighten the clutch pushrod locknut.
4. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal position switch until it
contacts the clutch pedal.
5. Turn in the clutch pedal position switch an additional 3/4 to 1 turn.
6. Tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut.
7. Loosen the clutch interlock switch locknut (J)
8. Press the clutch pedal to the floor.
9. Release the clutch pedal 9-12 mm (0.35-0.47 in.) from the fully pressed
position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch
(K) so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
10. Tighten the clutch interlock switch locknut (J).
CLUTCH PEDAL REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch connector (A) and clutch interlock
switch connector (B).
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Fig. 8: Disconnecting Clutch Pedal Position Switch Connector

2. Pry out the lock pin (C), and pull the pedal pin (D) out of the yoke.
3. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (E) and clutch pedal mounting bolt
(F).
4. Remove the clutch pedal (G).
5. Install the clutch pedal (A).
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Fig. 9: Installing Clutch Pedal

6. Install the clutch pedal mounting bolt (B) and master cylinder mounting nuts
(C).
7. Apply grease to the pedal pin (D), and slide it into the yoke, then install a new
lock pin (E).
8. Connect the clutch pedal position switch connector (F) and clutch interlock
switch connector (G).
9. Adjust the clutch pedal, clutch pedal position switch, and clutch interlock
switch (see CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH,
AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT).
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10. Check the clutch operation

CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder reservoir with a
syringe.
2. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation
system, then write down the customer's radio station and XM radio channel
presets.
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the
positive cable. Remove the battery.
4. Remove the battery
5. Remove the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER
6. Remove the battery base (see step 6 TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
7. Pry out the lock pin (A), and pull the pedal pin (B) out of the yoke. Remove the
master cylinder mounting nuts (C).
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Fig. 10: Prying Out Lock Pin

8. Remove the reservoir mounting bolt (A). Type A:
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Fig. 11: Removing Reservoir Mounting Bolt (Type A)

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Fig. 12: Removing Reservoir Mounting Bolt (Type B)

9. Remove the clutch line bracket (B).

10. Remove the clutch line clips (C).
11. Remove the clutch master cylinder (D).
12. Disconnect the reservoir hose (A), then remove the retaining clip (B), and
remove clutch line (C) from the clutch master cylinder (D). Plug the end of the
reservoir hose and clutch line with a shop towel to prevent brake fluid from
coming out.
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Fig. 13: Disconnecting Reservoir Hose

13. Remove the O-ring (E) and clutch master cylinder seal (F) from the clutch
master cylinder.
14. Install the clutch master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note
these items.
Apply brake assembly lube to the clutch line, and install a new O-ring.
Tighten the master cylinder mounting nuts to 13N.m (1.3 kgf.m, 9.4
lbf.ft).
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Install the battery base (see step 45 TRANSMISSION

INSTALLATION ).
Install the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER
Install the battery. Connect the positive cable to the battery first, then
connect the negative cable.
Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system, then
enter the customer's radio station and XM radio channel presets.
Do the power window control unit reset procedure, refer to RESETTING
15. Make sure the hose clamps (A) are positioned on the master cylinder (B) and
reservoir (C) as shown in Fig. 14.
Fig. 14: Making Sure Hose Clamps Are Positioned ON Master Cylinder
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And Reservoir
16. To prevent the retaining clip (A) from coming off, pry apart the tip of the
retaining clip (B) with a screwdriver.
Fig. 15: Securing Retaining Clip

17. Bleed the clutch master hydraulic system (see step 8 in Slave Cylinder
Replacement ).
18. Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line.
switch
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20. Check the clutch operation and check for leaks

21. Test drive the vehicle
NOTE: Reservoir filling is covered in the bleeding procedure.
SLAVE CYLINDER REPLACEMENT

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and navigation system,
then write down the customer's radio station and XM radio channel presets.
3. Remove the battery
4. Remove the mounting bolts (A), harness bracket (B), and slave cylinder (C).
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Fig. 16: Identifying Mounting Bolts

5. Remove the roll pins (D). Disconnect the clutch line (E), and remove the O-
ring (F). Plug the end of the clutch line to prevent brake fluid from coming out.
6. Install the slave cylinder in the reverse order of removal. Install a new O-ring
(A).
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Fig. 17: Identifying New O-Ring

7. Pull back the boot (B), and apply brake assembly lube to the boot and slave
cylinder rod (C). Reinstall the boot.
8. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the pushrod of the
slave cylinder. Tighten the slave cylinder mounting bolts to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m,
16 lbf.ft).
9. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
Attach a hose to the bleeder screw (A), and suspend the hose in a
container of brake fluid.
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Make sure there is an adequate supply of fluid in the reservoir, then slowly
pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose.
It may be necessary to limit the movement of the release fork (B) with a
block of wood to remove all the air from the system.
Tighten the bleeder screw to 8 N.m (0.8 kgf.m, 5.8 lbf.ft); do not
overtighten it.
After bleeding, refill the reservoir to the MAX mark with fluid.
Use only Honda DOT 3 brake fluid from an unopened container.
Confirm clutch operation, and check for leaking fluid.
Fig. 18: Bleeding Clutch Hydraulic System

10. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery first, then connect the negative
cable.
11. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio and navigation system, then enter the
customer's radio station and XM radio channel presets.
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CLUTCH REPLACEMENT
Pressure plate compressor 07AAE-P8EA000

Clutch alignment shaft 07AAF-P8EA000
Pressure plate compressor adapter 07AAK-P8EA000
Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003
Attachment, 37 x 40 mm 07746-0010200
Driver 07749-0010000
NOTE: You must use the special tools required to remove and
install the clutch pressure plate or you will irreversibly
damage it.
PRESSURE PLATE AND CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL
1. Check the diaphragm spring fingers for height using the special tool and a
feeler gauge. If the height is more than the service limit, replace the pressure
plate and clutch disc as a set.
Standard (New): 0.6 mm (0.02 in.) max.

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Fig. 19: Checking Diaphragm Spring Fingers For Height Using Special
And Feeler Gauge
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3. Turn the center screw (A) clockwise by hand to apply pressure on the
diaphragm spring. Continue turning the center screw until it stops.
4. Loosen the pressure plate mounting bolts (A) in the pattern shown in Fig. 21
several steps, then remove the bolts.
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Fig. 21: Loosening Pressure Plate Mounting Bolts

5. Turn the center screw on the pressure plate compressor counterclockwise by

hand to release the pressure, then install two pressure plate mounting bolts,
hand-tight, to hold the pressure plate (B). Remove the special tools and the
pressure plate.
6. Inspect the fingers of the diaphragm spring (A) for wear at the release bearing
contact area.
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Fig. 22: Inspecting Fingers Of Diaphragm Spring

7. Inspect the pressure plate surface (A) for wear, cracks, and burning.
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Fig. 23: Inspecting Pressure Plate Surface For Wear, Cracks And Burning
8. Inspect for warpage using a straight edge (A) and a feeler gauge (B). Measure
across the pressure plate (C). If the warpage is more than the service limit,
replace the pressure plate and clutch disc as a set.

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Fig. 24: Inspecting Warpage Using Straight Edge And Feeler Gauge
9. Remove the clutch disc and special tools.
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Fig. 25: Removing Clutch Disc And Special Tools

10. Inspect the lining of the clutch disc for signs of slippage or oil. If the clutch
looks burnt or is oil soaked, replace it and the pressure plate as a set. Find and
repair the source of the oil leak if the clutch disc is soaked.
11. Measure the clutch disc thickness. If the thickness is less than the service limit,
replace the clutch disc and pressure plate as a set.
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Fig. 26: Measuring Clutch Disc Thickness

12. Measure the rivet depth from the clutch disc lining surface (A) to the rivets (B)
on both sides. If the rivet depth is less than the service limit, replace the clutch
disc and the pressure plate as a set.
Standard (New): 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)
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Fig. 27: Measuring Rivet Depth From Clutch Disc Lining Surface To
Rivets
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FLYWHEEL AND PILOT BEARING INSPECTION
1. Inspect the ring gear teeth for wear and damage.

2. Inspect the clutch disc mating surface on the flywheel for wear, cracks, and
burning.
3. Measure the flywheel runout with the flywheel (A) installed on the engine. Set
the dial indicator (B). Turn the flywheel at least two turns while pressing the
flywheel. If the runout is not within the standard, replace the flywheel, and
recheck the runout. Resurfacing the flywheel is not recommended.
Fig. 28: Measuring Flywheel Runout

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4. Turn the inner race of the pilot bearing with your finger. The pilot bearing
should turn smoothly and quietly. Check that the pilot bearing outer race fits
tightly in the flywheel. If the race does not turn smoothly, quietly, or fit tight in
the flywheel, replace the pilot bearing.
Fig. 29: Turning Inner Race Of Pilot Bearing With Your Finger
FLYWHEEL AND PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT
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1. Install the special tool.
Fig. 30: Installing Special Tool

2. Loosen the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps.

Remove the bolts, then remove the flywheel.
3. Remove the pilot bearing (A) from the flywheel (B).
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Fig. 31: Removing Pilot Bearing

4. Install the new pilot bearing (A) into the flywheel using the special tools.
Apply a light coat of oil to the bearing surface.
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Fig. 32: Installing New Pilot Bearing Into Flywheel

5. Install the flywheel and mounting bolts, finger-tight.

6. Install the special tool, then torque the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross
pattern in several steps.
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Fig. 33: Tightening Mounting Bolts In Crisscross Pattern

CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE INSTALLATION
1. Temporarily install the clutch disc onto the splines of the transmission
mainshaft. Make sure the clutch disc slides freely on the mainshaft.
2. Install the ring gear holder.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 34: Installing Ring Gear Holder

3. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the splines (A) of the
clutch disc (B), then install the clutch disc using the special tools.
4. Align a white mark (A) across the pressure plate (B) and flywheel (C).
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Fig. 35: Aligning White Mark Across Pressure Plate And Flywheel
5. Install the pressure plate and the mounting bolts (D), finger-tight.
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7. Turn the center screw (A) clockwise by hand to apply pressure on the
diaphragm spring. Continue turning the center screw unit it stops.
8. Be careful not to damage the pressure plate (A). Tighten (180 degrees apart)
the pressure plate mounting bolts (B) in a star pattern in several steps.
PRESSURE PLATE MOUNTING BOLT TORQUE: 25 N.m (2.6 kgf.m,

19 lbf.ft)
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 37: Tightening Pressure Plate Mounting Bolts

9. Turn the center screw on the pressure plate compressor counterclockwise by

hand to release the pressure, then remove the special tools.
10. Make sure the diaphragm spring fingers are all the same height.
RELEASE BEARING REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the release fork boot (A) from the clutch housing (B).
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Fig. 38: Removing Release Fork Boot

2. Remove the release fork (C) from the clutch housing by squeezing the release
fork set spring (D). Remove the release bearing (E).
3. Check the play of the release bearing by spinning it with your hand. If there is
excessive play, replace the release bearing.
NOTE: The release bearing is packed with grease. Do not wash

it in solvent.
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Fig. 39: Checking play of release bearing by spinning

4. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the release fork (A),
the release fork bolt (B), the release bearing (C), and the release fork set spring
(D) in the shaded areas.
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Fig. 40: Applying Super High Temp Urea Grease To Release Fork
5. With the release fork slid between the release bearing pawls, install the release
bearing on the mainshaft while inserting the release fork through the hole in the
clutch housing.
6. Align the detent of the release fork with the release fork bolt, then press the
release fork over the release fork bolt squarely.
7. Install the release fork boot (E). Make sure the boot seals around the release
fork and the clutch housing.
8. Move the release fork (A) right and left to make sure it fits properly against the
release bearing (B) and the release bearing slides smoothly. Wipe off the
excess grease.
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Fig. 41: Moving Release Fork Right And Left To Fit Properly Against
Release Bearing
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2003-07 TRANSMISSION Clutch - Accord
Clutch - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Exploded View Of Clutch System Components

CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH
INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
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2007 Honda Accord
NOTE: Check the clutch pedal position switch (see CLUTCH

PEDAL POSITION SWITCH TEST ).
Check the clutch interlock switch (see CLUTCH
INTERLOCK SWITCH TEST ).
Remove the driver's floor mat before adjusting the
clutch pedal.
The clutch is self-adjusting to compensate for wear.
If there is no clearance between the master cylinder
piston and push rod, the release bearing will be held
against the diaphragm spring, which can result in
clutch slippage or other clutch problems.
1. Loosen the clutch pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the clutch
pedal position switch (B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal (C).
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Fig. 3: Loosening Clutch Pedal Position Switch Lock Nut

2. Loosen the clutch pushrod locknut (D), and turn the pushrod (E) in or out to
get the specified height (F), stroke (G), free play (H), and disengagement
height (I) at the clutch pedal.
Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130-140 mm (5.12-5.51 in.)

Clutch Pedal Free
Play: 10-18 mm (0.39-0.71 in.)

Clutch Pedal Height: 191 mm (7.52 in.)
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Clutch Pedal
Disengagement
Height: 95 mm (3.74 in.)

3. Tighten the clutch pushrod locknut.
4. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal position switch until it
contacts the clutch pedal.
5. Turn in the clutch pedal position switch an additional 3/4 to 1 turn.
6. Tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut.
7. Press the clutch pedal to the floor.
8. Release the clutch pedal 9-12 mm (0.35-0.47 in.) from the fully pressed
position, and hold it there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch
(K) so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
9. Tighten the clutch interlock switch locknut.
CLUTCH PEDAL REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch connector (A) and clutch interlock
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Fig. 4: Disconnecting Clutch Pedal Position Switch And Clutch Interlock

Switch Connector
2. Pry out the lock pin (C), and pull the pedal pin (D) out of the yoke.
3. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (E) and clutch pedal mounting bolt
(F).
4. Remove the clutch pedal (G).
5. Install the clutch pedal (A).
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Fig. 5: Installing Clutch Pedal

6. Install the clutch pedal mounting bolt (B) and master cylinder mounting nuts
(C).
7. Apply grease to the pedal pin (D), and slide it into the yoke, then install a new
lock pin (E).
8. Connect the clutch pedal position switch connector (F) and clutch interlock
switch connector (G).
switch (see CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH,
AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT ).
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10. Check the clutch operation.

CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Use fender covers to avoid damage painted surfaces.

1. Remove the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder reservoir with a
syringe.
system, then write down the customer's audio presets.
positive cable.
4. Remove the battery. ).
6. Remove the battery base (see step 10 in ENGINE REMOVAL
7. Pry out the lock pin (A), and pull the pedal pin (B) out of the yoke. Remove the
master cylinder mounting nuts (C).
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Fig. 6: Prying Lock Pin And Pulling Pedal Pin Out Of Yoke
8. Remove the reservoir mounting bolt (A).
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Fig. 7: Removing Reservoir Mounting Bolt (Type A)

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Fig. 8: Removing Reservoir Mounting Bolt (Type B)

9. Remove the clutch line bracket (B).

10. Remove the clutch line clips (C).
11. Remove the clutch master cylinder (D).
12. Disconnect the reservoir hose (A), then remove the retaining clip (B) and
remove clutch line (C) from the clutch master cylinder (D). Plug the end of the
reservoir hose and clutch line to prevent brake fluid from coming out.
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Fig. 9: Disconnecting Reservoir Hose And Removing Clutch Line From

Clutch Master Cylinder
13. Remove the O-ring (E) and clutch master cylinder seal (F) from the clutch
master cylinder.
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Fig. 10: Identifying Hose Clamps Position

14. Install the clutch master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note
these items.
Apply brake assembly lube to the clutch line, and install a new O-ring.
Tighten the master cylinder mounting nuts to 13 N.m (1.3 kgf.m, 9.4
lbf.ft).
Install the battery base (see step 47 on ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
Install the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER

Install the battery. Connect the positive cable to the battery first, then
connect the negative cable.
Enter the anti-theft code for the radio and the navigation system, then
enter the customer's audio presets.
Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see RESETTING
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THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).

15. Make sure the hose clamps (A) are positioned on the master cylinder (B) and
reservoir (C) as shown in Fig. 10
16. To prevent the retaining clip (A) from coming off, pry apart the tip of the
retaining clip (B) with a screwdriver.
Fig. 11: Prying Tip Of Retaining Clip

17. Bleed the clutch master hydraulic system (see step 12 in Slave Cylinder
Replacement ).
NOTE: Reservoir filling is covered in the bleeding procedure.

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18. Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (see
step 13 in Slave Cylinder Replacement
switch (see Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch, and Clutch
Interlock Switch Adjustment.
20. Check the clutch operation and check for leaks.
SLAVE CYLINDER REPLACEMENT

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio unit and the navigation
positive cable.
3. Remove the battery. ).
5. Remove the battery base (see step 10 on ENGINE REMOVAL .
6. Remove the clutch line bracket.
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Fig. 12: Removing Clutch Line Bracket (Type A)

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Fig. 13: Removing Clutch Line Bracket (Type B)

7. Remove the mounting bolts (A) and the slave cylinder (B)
Fig. 14: Removing Mounting Bolts And Slave Cylinder

8. Remove the roll pins (C). Disconnect the clutch line (D), and remove the O-
ring (E). Plug the end of the clutch line to prevent brake fluid from coming out.
9. Install the slave cylinder in the reverse order of removal. Install a new O-ring
(A).
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Fig. 15: Installing Slave Cylinder

10. Pull back the boot (B), and apply brake assembly lube to the boot and slave
cylinder rod (C). Reinstall the boot.
11. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the pushrod of the
slave cylinder. Tighten the slave cylinder mounting bolts to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m,
16 lbf.ft).
12. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
Attach a hose to the bleeder screw (A), and suspend the hose in a
container of brake fluid.
Make sure there is an adequate supply of fluid in the reservoir, then slowly
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pump the clutch pedal until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder hose.
It may be necessary to limit the movement of the release fork (B) with a
block of wood to remove all the air from the system.
Tighten the bleeder screw to 8 N.m (0.8 kgf.m, 5.8 lbf.ft); do not
overtighten it.
After bleeding, refill the reservoir to the MAX mark with fluid.
Use only Honda DOT 3 brake fluid from an unopened container.
Fig. 16: Bleeding Clutch Hydraulic System

13. Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (A).
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Fig. 17: Identifying Brake Fluid In Reservoir To MAX (Upper) Level

14. Install the air cleaner assembly (see AIR CLEANER
15. Install the battery base (see step 47 on ENGINE INSTALLATION
16. Install the battery. Clean the battery posts and cable terminals. Connect the
positive cable to the battery first, then connect the negative cable.
17. Check the clutch operation and check for leaks.
18. Test-drive vehicle.
audio presets, and set the clock.
CLUTCH REPLACEMENT
Clutch alignment disc 07 JAF-PM7011A

Ring gear holder 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003
Clutch alignment shaft 07ZAF-PR8A100
Remover handle 07936-3710100
PRESSURE PLATE AND CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL
1. Check the height of the diaphragm spring fingers using clutch alignment disc
(A), clutch alignment shaft (B), remover handle (C), and a feeler gauge (D). If
the height is more than the service limit, replace the pressure plate.

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Fig. 18: Checking Diaphragm Spring Fingers Height

2. Install the ring gear holder (A), clutch alignment shaft (B), and remover handle
(C).
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3. To prevent warping, unscrew the pressure plate mounting bolts (D) in a

crisscross pattern in several steps, then remove the pressure plate (E).
4. Inspect the fingers of the diaphragm spring (A) for wear at the release bearing
contact area.
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Fig. 20: Inspecting Fingers Of Diaphragm Spring

5. Inspect the pressure plate surface (A) for wear, cracks, and burning.
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Fig. 21: Inspecting Pressure Plate Surface

6. Inspect for warpage using a straight edge (A) and a feeler gauge (B). Measure
across the pressure plate (C). If the warpage is more than the service limit,
replace the pressure plate.

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Fig. 22: Inspecting Warpage Using Straight Edge And Feeler Gauge
7. Remove the clutch disc, clutch alignment shaft (B) and remover handle (C).
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Fig. 23: Removing Clutch Disc And Special Tools

8. Inspect the lining of the clutch disc for signs of slippage or oil. If the clutch
disc looks burnt or is oil soaked, replace it. Find and repair the source of the oil
leak, if the clutch disc is soaked.
9. Measure the clutch disc thickness. If the thickness is less than the service limit,
replace the clutch disc.

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Fig. 24: Measuring Clutch Disc Thickness

10. Measure the rivet depth from the clutch disc lining surface (A) to the rivets (B)
on both sides. If the rivet depth is less than the service limit, replace the clutch
disc.
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Fig. 25: Measuring Rivet Depth From Clutch Disc Lining Surface To
Rivets
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FLYWHEEL INSPECTION
1. Inspect the ring gear teeth for wear and damage.

2. Inspect the clutch disc mating surface on the flywheel for wear, cracks, and
burning.
3. Measure the flywheel runout with the flywheel (A) installed on the engine. Set
the dial indicator (B). Turn the flywheel at least two turns while pressing the
flywheel. If the runout is more than the service limit, replace the flywheel, and
recheck the runout. Resurfacing the flywheel is not recommended.
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Fig. 26: Measuring Flywheel Runout

FLYWHEEL REPLACEMENT
1. Install the ring gear holder (A).
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Fig. 27: Installing Special Tool

2. Loosen the flywheel mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps.
Remove the bolts, then remove the flywheel.
3. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft, and install the mounting bolts, finger-
tight.
4. Install the ring gear holder (A), then torque the flywheel mounting bolts (B) in
a crisscross pattern in several steps.
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Fig. 28: Installing Special Tool And Tightening Flywheel Mounting Bolts
CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE INSTALLATION
1. Temporarily install the clutch disc onto the splines of the transmission
mainshaft. Make sure the clutch disc slides freely on the mainshaft.
2. Install the ring gear holder.
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Fig. 29: Installing Ring Gear Holder

3. Apply a light coat of super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the
crankshaft pilot bushing (B).
4. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the splines (C) of the
clutch disc (D), then install the clutch disc using the clutch alignment shaft (E)
and remover handle (F).
5. Install the pressure plate (A) and the mounting bolts (B), finger-tight.
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Fig. 30: Installing Pressure Plate And Mounting Bolts

6. Torque the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern. Tighten the bolts in several
steps to prevent warping the diaphragm spring.
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Fig. 31: Tightening Mounting Bolts In Crisscross Pattern

7. Remove the ring gear holder (A), clutch alignment shaft (B), and remover
handle (C).
8. Make sure the diaphragm spring fingers are all the same height.
RELEASE BEARING REPLACEMENT
Fig. 32: Removing Release Fork From Clutch Housing

fork set spring (D) with pliers. Remove the release bearing (E).
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3. Check the play of the release bearing by spinning it by hand. If there is

excessive play, replace the release bearing.
NOTE: The release bearing is packed with grease. Do not wash

it in solvent.
Fig. 33: Inspecting Release Bearing Play

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the release fork bolt (B), the release bearing (C), and the release bearing guide
(D) in the shaded areas.
Fig. 34: Applying Grease To Release Fork

5. With the release fork slid between the release bearing pawls, install the release
bearing on the mainshaft while inserting the release fork through the hole in the
clutch housing.
6. Align the detent of the release fork with the release fork bolt, then press the
release fork over the release fork bolt squarely.
7. Install the release fork boot (E). Make sure the boot seals around the release
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fork and clutch housing.

8. Move the release fork (A) right and left to make sure that it fits properly
against the release bearing (B) and that the release bearing slides smoothly.
Fig. 35: Moving Release Fork Right And Left To Fit Properly Against
Release Bearing
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Consoles - Accord
Consoles - Accord
CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014* *Available through the American Honda Tool
and Equipment Program; call 888-424-6857
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the front seat, dashboard, and
related parts.
1. M/T model: Remove the shift knob (A).

-1 Lower the shift lever boot (B) to release the hooks (C) from the knob.
-2 Remove the shift knob.
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Fig. 1: Removing Shift Knob (M/T Model)

2. Detach the clips (A, B) by pulling the center console front panel (C) up. If
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equipped, disconnect the seat heater switch connectors (D).
Fig. 2: Detaching Clips Pulling Center Console Front Panel Up

3. Pry up on the right of the console pocket (A) with a trim tool, and detach the
clips, then remove the pocket.
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Fig. 3: Prying Right Of Console Pocket With Trim Tool

4. Remove the screws (A), detach the clips (B) and hook (C) by pulling the center
holder (D) up, and disconnect the front accessory power socket connector (E).
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Fig. 4: Disconnecting Front Accessory Power Socket Connector

5. Detach the clips (A, B) by pulling the center console rear panel (C) up.
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Fig. 5: Detaching Clips Pulling Center Console Rear Panel Up

6. Remove the center console (A).

-1 Open the console box lid (B) then remove the console mat (C).
-2 If equipped, disconnect the rear accessory power socket connector (D),
and detach the clip (E).
-3 Remove the screws (F, G), then pull the rear portion of the console up
to release the hooks (H), then remove it.
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Fig. 6: Removing Center Console

7. Install the console in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clip is
damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace it with new one.
CENTER CONSOLE ARMREST DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
NOTE: When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with

protective tape to prevent damage.
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Take care not to scratch armrest.
1. Remove the center console armrest (see step 2 in CENTER CONSOLE

REAR COVER REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the screws, then remove the armrest hinge (A) and the console tray
(B) as an assembly.
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Fig. 7: Removing Armrest Hinge & Console Tray

3. Slide the console armrest forward fully.

4. Insert a large flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with protective tape into the center
of the gap between the console armrest (A) and the console armrest base (B),
and gently push it straight down until both inside hooks (C) of the console
armrest come off the stop portions (D) of the console base.
NOTE: Apply protective tape (E) to the projection in the back

surface of the console armrest to prevent damage.
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Fig. 8: Inserting Screwdriver Into Center Of Gap Between Console

Armrest & Console Armrest Base
5. Slightly slide the console armrest forward to get the inside hooks over the stop
portions, then remove the flat-tip screwdriver from the gap.
6. Remove the console armrest (A) from the guide rails of the console armrest
base (B).
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Fig. 9: Removing Console Armrest From Guide Rails Of Console Armrest

Base
7. Remove the screws, then remove the slide bracket (A).
Fig. 10: Removing Slide Bracket

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8. Separate the console armrest upper base (A) from the lower base (B). Remove
the screws, then remove the armrest lock (C) and the tray lock (D) from the
upper base.
Fig. 11: Separating Console Armrest Upper Base From Lower Base
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9. Reassemble the console armrest in the reverse order of disassembly.
CENTER CONSOLE REAR COVER REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the center console.

2. Open the center console armrest (A) and remove the hinge mounting screws,
then remove the armrest.
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Fig. 12: Removing Hinge Mounting Screws

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3. Remove the screws (A) and detach the clips (B) then remove the center console
rear cover (C).
Fig. 13: Removing Center Console Rear Cover

4. Install the cover the reverse order of removal.
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2003-07 ENGINE Cooling System - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Cooling System - Accord (V6)
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Cooling System Components

RADIATOR CAP TEST
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1. Remove the radiator cap (A), wet its seal with engine coolant, then install it on
a commercially available pressure tester (B).
Fig. 2: Testing Radiator Cap

2
2. Apply a pressure of 93- 123 kPa (0.95- 1.25 kgf/cm , 14-18 psi).
3. Check for a drop in pressure.
4. If the pressure drops, replace the cap.
RADIATOR TEST
1. Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap, and fill
the radiator with engine coolant to the top of the filler neck.
2. Attach a commercially available pressure tester (A) to the radiator, and apply a
2
pressure of 93-123 kPa (0.95-1.25 kgf/cm , 14-18 psi).
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Fig. 3: Attaching Pressure Tester to Radiator

3. Inspect for engine coolant leaks and a drop in pressure.

4. Remove the tester, then reinstall the radiator cap.
FAN MOTOR TEST
1. Disconnect the 2P connectors from the radiator fan motor (A) and condenser
fan motor (B).
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Fig. 4: Disconnecting 2P Connectors From Radiator Fan Motor And

Condenser Fan Motor
2. Test each motor by connecting battery power to the terminal No. 1 and ground
to the terminal No. 2.
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2007 Honda Accord
3. If the motor fails to run or does not run smoothly, replace it (see RADIATOR
AND FAN REPLACEMENT ).
THERMOSTAT TEST
Replace the thermostat if it is open at room temperature.
To test a closed thermostat:
1. Suspend the thermostat (A) in a container of water. Do not let the thermometer
(B) touch the bottom of the hot container.
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Fig. 5: Suspending Thermostat In Container Of Water

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2. Heat the water and check the temperature with a thermometer. Check the
temperature at which the thermostat first opens, and at which it is fully open.
3. Measure the lift height of the thermostat when it is fully open.
Standard Thermostat
Lift Height: Above 10.0 mm (0.39 in.)

Starts Opening: 169-176F (76-80C)
Fully Open: 194F (90C)
WATER PUMP INSPECTION
1. Remove the timing belt (see TIMING BELT REMOVAL ).

2. Turn the water pump pulley counterclockwise. Check that it turns freely. If it
doesn't turn smoothly, replace the water pump (see WATER PUMP
INSPECTION).
NOTE: When you check the water pump pulley, you may see a
small amount of "weeping" from the bleed holes (A).
This is normal.
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Fig. 6: Inspecting Water Pump

3. Install the timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSTALLATION ).
WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT
1. Drain the engine coolant (see COOLANT CHECK).

2. Remove the timing belt (see TIMING BELT REMOVAL ).
3. Remove the timing belt adjuster (see TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
REPLACEMENT ).
4. Remove the water pump (A) by removing the five bolts.
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Fig. 7: Identifying Water Pump

5. Inspect and clean the O-ring groove and the mating surface with the engine
block.
6. Install the water pump with a new O-ring (B) in the reverse order of removal.
7. Clean up any spilled engine coolant.
8. Install the timing belt adjuster (see TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
REPLACEMENT ).
10. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed the air from the cooling
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system (see step 8 ).

COOLANT CHECK
1. Look at the coolant level in the coolant reservoir. Make sure it is between the
MAX mark (A) and MIN mark (B).
Fig. 8: Checking Coolant Level

2. If the coolant level in the coolant reservoir is at or below the MIN mark, add
coolant to bring it between the MIN and MAX mark, then inspect the cooling
system for leaks.
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COOLANT REPLACEMENT
1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then
turn off the ignition switch. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the
touch.
2. Remove the radiator cap.
3. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant.
Fig. 9: Draining Coolant

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4. Install a rubber hose (A) on the drain bolt (B) located at the rear of the cylinder
block, then loosen the drain bolt.
Fig. 10: Identifying Rubber Hose On Drain Bolt

5. When the coolant stops draining, tighten the drain bolt. Remove the rubber
hose.
6. Tighten the radiator drain plug securely.
7. Remove, drain, and reinstall the reserve tank.
8. Fill the reserve tank to the MAX mark (A) with Honda Long Life
Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001).
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Fig. 11: Filling Reserve Tank To MAX

9. Pour Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the
base of the filler neck.
NOTE: Always use Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant

Type 2
(P/N OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can

result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to
malfunction or fail.
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Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a

mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Do not
add water.
Engine Coolant Refill Capacities (including the reserve tank capacity of

0.6 L (0.16 US gal))
After Coolant Change:
M/T: 6.6 L (1.74 US gal)

A/T: 6.7 L (1.77 US gal)
After Engine Overhaul:
M/T: 8.2 L (2.17 US gal)
A/T: 8.4 L (2.22 US gal)
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Fig. 12: Pouring Antifreeze/Coolant Up To Base Of Filler Neck

10. Install the radiator cap loosely.

11. Start the engine and let it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at
least twice).
12. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator and add Honda Long Life
Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2, if needed.
13. Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine again, and check for leaks.
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT
then write down the customer's audio presets. Make sure the ignition switch is
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OFF.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then the positive cable,
then remove the battery.
4. Remove the ground cable and thermostat cover, then remove the thermostat.
Fig. 13: Identifying Thermostat

5. Install the thermostat with new rubber seal.

6. Install the battery. Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper,
then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
7. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed air from the cooling system
(see step 8 ).
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9. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system, then enter
the customer's audio presets.
11. Set the clock.
WATER PASSAGE REPLACEMENT
OFF.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then the positive cable.
Remove the battery.
4. Remove the vacuum hoses, breather pipe, and the intake air duct.
5. Remove the upper radiator hose, lower radiator hose, heater hoses, and water
bypass hoses from the water passage. Remove the water passage.
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Fig. 14: Identifying Upper Radiator Hose And Lower Radiator Hose
6. Install the water passage in the reverse order of removal.

(see step 8 ).
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12. Set the clock.

RADIATOR AND FAN REPLACEMENT
1. Drain engine coolant (see COOLANT CHECK).

2. Remove the front bulkhead cover:
2-door, refer to 2-DOOR
3. A/T model: Remove the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) cooler hoses from
the radiator (see ATF FEED PIPE REPLACEMENT ).
4. Remove the upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose from the radiator.
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5. Remove the harness clamps and A/C compressor clutch connector.

6. Remove the upper bracket cushions, then pull up the radiator.
7. Disconnect the fan motor connectors, then remove the fan shroud assemblies
and other parts from the radiator.
8. Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the upper and
lower cushions are set securely.
9. Fill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed air from the cooling system
(see step 8 ).
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2003-07 ENGINE Cooling System - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Cooling System - Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Cooling System Components

RADIATOR CAP TEST
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2007 Honda Accord
1. Remove the radiator cap (A), wet its seal with engine coolant, then install it on
the pressure tester (B).
Fig. 2: Testing Radiator Cap

2
2. Apply a pressure of 93-123 kPa (0.95-1.25 kgf/cm , 14-18 psi).
3. Check for a drop in pressure.
4. If the pressure drops, replace the cap.
RADIATOR TEST
1. Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap and fill the
radiator with engine coolant to the top of the filler neck.
2. Attach a commercially available pressure tester (A) to the radiator, Apply a
2
pressure of 93-123 kPa (0.95-1.25 kgf/cm 14-18 psi).
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Fig. 3: Attaching Pressure Tester to Radiator

3. Inspect for engine coolant leaks and a drop in pressure.

4. Remove the tester, and reinstall the radiator cap.
5. Check for engine oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the engine oil.
FAN MOTOR TEST
1. Disconnect the 2P connectors from the radiator fan motor and condenser fan
motor.
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Fig. 4: Disconnecting 2P Connectors From Radiator Fan And Condenser

Fan Motor
2. Test the motor by connecting battery power to No. 2 terminal and ground to
No. 1 terminal.
3. If the motor fails to run or does not run smoothly, replace it (see RADIATOR
AND FAN REPLACEMENT ).
THERMOSTAT TEST
Replace the thermostat if it is in the stuck open position at room temperature.

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To test a closed thermostat:

1. Suspend the thermostat (A) in a container of water. Do not let the thermometer
(B) touch the bottom of the hot container.
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Fig. 5: Suspending Thermostat In Container Of Water

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2. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Check the
temperature at which the thermostat first opens, and at which it is fully open.
3. Measure the lift height of the thermostat when it is fully open.
Standard Thermostat
Lift Height: above 8.0 mm (0.31 in.)

Starts Opening: 169-176F (76-80C)
Fully Open: 194F (90C)
WATER PUMP INSPECTION
1. Remove the drive belt (see DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT ).

2. Turn the water pump pulley counterclockwise. Check that it turns freely. If it
doesn't turn smoothly, replace the water pump (see Water Pump
Replacement ).
NOTE: When you check the water pump pulley, you may see a
small amount of "weeping" from the bleed holes (A).
This is normal.
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Fig. 6: Identifying Bleed Holes

3. Install the drive belt (see DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT ).

WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT

2. Drain the engine coolant (see Coolant Replacement ).
3. Remove the drive belt auto-tensioner (see DRIVE BELT AUTO-
TENSIONER REPLACEMENT ).
4. Remove the six bolts securing the water pump, then remove the water pump
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(A).
Fig. 7: Removing Water Pump

5. Inspect and clean the O-ring groove and mating surface with the water passage.
6. Install the water pump with new O-rings in the reverse order of removal.
8. Install the drive belt auto-tensioner (see DRIVE BELT AUTO-TENSIONER
REPLACEMENT ).
9. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system
with the heater valve open (see step 6 in Coolant Replacement ).
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COOLANT CHECK
1. Look at the coolant level in the reserve tank. Make sure it is between the MAX
mark (A) and MIN mark (B).
Fig. 8: Identifying Coolant Level

2. If the coolant level in the reserve tank is at or below the MIN mark, add
coolant to bring it up to the MAX mark, and inspect the cooling system for
leaks.
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COOLANT REPLACEMENT
1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, or
climate control system to HI, then turn off the ignition switch. Make sure the
engine and radiator are cool to the touch.
3. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant.
Fig. 9: Loosening Drain Plug And Drain Coolant

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4. After the coolant has drained, tighten the radiator drain plug.
5. Remove, drain and reinstall the reverse tank.
6. Fill the reserve tank to the MAX mark (A) with Honda Antifreeze/Coolant
Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001).
Fig. 10: Identifying MAX Mark

7. Pour Honda Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the
filler neck.
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2007 Honda Accord
NOTE: Always use Honda Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N

OL999-9001). Using a non-Honda coolant can result
in corrosion, causing the cooling system to
malfunction or fail.
Honda Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of
50% antifreeze and 50% water. Do not add water.
Engine Coolant Capacities (including the reserve tank capacity of 0.6 L

(0.16 US gal))
After Coolant Change:
M/T: 5.1 L (1.35 US gal)

A/T: 5.0 L (1.32 US gal)
M/T: 7.2 L (1.90 US gal)

A/T: 7.1 L (1.88 US gal)
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Fig. 11: Pouring Honda Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 Into Radiator

8. Install the radiator cap loosely.
9. Start the engine, and let it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at
least twice).
10. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator and add Honda
Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 if needed.
11. Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine again and check for leaks.
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT
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2. Clean any dirt off the quick connector (A), thermostat cover, and lower
radiator hose.
Fig. 12: Cleaning Dirt Off Quick Connector

3. Pull out lock (B) by hand, then wiggle the quick connector loose, and remove it
from the thermostat cover. Do not use any tools to remove the quick connector.
4. Remove the thermostat (A).
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Fig. 13: Removing Thermostat

5. Install the thermostat with a new O-ring (B).

6. Check the quick connector (A) and set ring (B) for cracks or damage. If the
connector and/or set ring are cracked or damaged, replace the connector.
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Fig. 14: Checking Quick Connector And Set Ring For Cracks Or Damage
7. Make sure the set ring is in place inside the quick connector. If the set ring is
off the connector, replace the quick connector.
8. Replace the O-ring (C) in the quick connector.
9. Check the lock (D). If the lock is damaged or deformed, replace it. When
installing the new lock on the connector, press it straight down along the
groove.
10. Clean the connecting surface of the thermostat cover (E), then apply clean
engine coolant around the connecting surface.
11. Push down the lock (A), then push the quick connector (B) onto the thermostat
cover until you hear it click.
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Fig. 15: Pushing Down Lock

WATER PASSAGE REPLACEMENT

radiator hose.
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Fig. 16: Cleaning Dirt Off Quick Connector

3. Pull out the lock (B) by hand, then wiggle the quick connector loose, and
remove it from the thermostat cover. Do not use any tools to remove the quick
connector.
4. Remove the alternator (see ALTERNATOR REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
5. Remove the splash shield (see step 25 on TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ).
6. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses (see step 26
on ENGINE REMOVAL ).
7. Remove the intake manifold: ).
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'03-05 models (see REMOVAL ('03-05 MODELS)

'06-07 models (see REMOVAL ('06--07 MODELS)
8. Remove a bolt (A) securing the connecting pipe.
Fig. 17: Removing Connecting Pipe Bolt

9. Remove the connecting pipe (B), water bypass hose (C), and positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose (D).
10. Remove the water passage (A).
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Fig. 18: Removing Water Passage

11. Remove the thermostat housing (B).

12. Remove the water pump (see Water Pump Replacement ).
13. Clean and dry the water passage mating surfaces.
14. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0002, 08718-0003,
or 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder block mating surface of the water
passage and to the inner threads of the bolt holes.
NOTE: Do not install components if too much time has

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passed after applying the liquid gasket (for P/N

08718-0002, no more than 4 minutes, for all others,
no more than 5 minutes). Instead, remove the old
residue and reapply the liquid gasket.
Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after
installing the water passage.
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Fig. 19: Applying Liquid Gasket To Cylinder Block Mating Surface

15. Install the water pump (see Water Pump Replacement ).

16. Install the thermostat housing (A) with a new O-ring (B).
Fig. 20: Installing Thermostat Housing With New O-Ring

17. Install the water passage (C) with a new O-ring (D).
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18. Install the connecting pipe (A) with a new O-ring (B).
Fig. 21: Installing Connecting Pipe With New O-Ring

19. Install the water bypass hose (C), and PCV hose (D), then tighten a bolt (E)
securing the connecting pipe.
20. Install the intake manifold.
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'03-05 models (seeINSTALLATION ('03-05 MODELS) )

'06-07 models (seeINSTALLATION '06--07 MODEL) ).
21. Install the A/C compressor (see step 30 on ENGINE INSTALLATION ).

22. Install the splash shield (see step 25 on TRANSMISSION
INSTALLATION ).
23. Install the alternator (see ALTERNATOR REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
Fig. 22: Checking Quick Connector And Set Ring For Cracks Or Damage
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groove.
cover until you here it click.
Fig. 23: Pushing Down Lock And Quick Connector

30. After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with coolant
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or oil.
EGR PASSAGE REPLACEMENT

2. Remove the two bolts (A) securing the EVAP canister purge valve bracket and
remove the bolt (B) securing the harness bracket.
Fig. 24: Removing EVAP Canister Purge Valve Bracket Bolts

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2007 Honda Accord
3. Remove the upper radiator hose (A), heater hose (B), water bypass hose (C),
and connecting pipe mounting bolt (D).
Fig. 25: Removing Upper Radiator Hose, Heater Hose, Water Bypass Hose
And Connecting Pipe Mounting Bolt
4. Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve connector.

5. Remove the EGR passage (A).
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Fig. 26: Removing EGR Passage

6. Install the EGR passage with a new gasket (B).

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RADIATOR AND FAN REPLACEMENT

2. Remove the front bulkhead cover:
3. Remove the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) cooler hoses (A/T). Plug the
ATF cooler hoses and lines.
Fig. 27: Removing ATF Cooler Hoses

4. Remove the upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose from the radiator.
5. Disconnect the fan motor connectors and radiator fan switch connector ('03-
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2007 Honda Accord
2004 models)/engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 2 connector ('05-07

models).
6. Remove the A/C compressor clutch connector.
7. Remove the upper bracket and cushions, then pull up the radiator.
8. Remove the fan shroud assemblies and other parts from the radiator.
9. Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the upper and
lower cushions are set securely.
10. Fill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed air from the cooling system
(see step 6 in Coolant Replacement ).
11. Check the ATF level in the automatic transmission (A/T) (see ATF LEVEL
CHECK ).
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Cruise Control - Accord (V6)
Cruise Control - Accord (V6)
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Fig. 1: Locating Cruise Control Components

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Fig. 2: Cruise Control Circuit Diagram

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2007 Honda Accord


1. Check for PGM-FI and
body DTCs.
2. Check the No. 13 (20 A)
fuse in the under-hood
fuse/ relay box, and the No.
18 (15 A) fuse in the under-
dash fuse/relay box.
Cruise control cannot 3. Do the cruise control input
test (see CRUISE Poor ground G501
be set
CONTROL INPUT
TEST).
4. Do the cruise control
combination switch test
(see CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT).

body DTCs.
2. Do the gauge control
Cruise control can be module self-diagnostic
set, but the CRUISE function procedure, refer to Faulty gauge control
MAIN indicator does SELF-DIAGNOSTIC module
not come on FUNCTION .
3. Do the cruise control input
test (see CRUISE
CONTROL INPUT
TEST). Test the cruise
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control master button signal

input
body DTCs.
function, procedure, refer
Cruise control can be to the 2003-2006 Accord
set, but the CRUISE Service Faulty gauge control
CONTROL indicator 3. Manual (See HORNS module
does not come on (EXCEPT HYBRID &
V6) . Do the cruise control
input test (see CRUISE
CONTROL INPUT
TEST). Test the cruise
control indicator signal
input.
body DTCs.
test (see CRUISE
Vehicle does not CONTROL INPUT
decelerate or TEST). Test the cruise Open circuit, loose or
accelerate accordingly control Set/decel and disconnected
when the set/decel or Resume/accel switch signal terminals: YEL/RED
resume/accel switch is inputs. or GRY/RED wire
pressed 3. Do the cruise control
(see CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT).
body DTCs.
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test (see CRUISE
CONTROL INPUT
TEST). Test the brake
Short in the
Set speed does not pedal position switch signal
BRN/BLK wire
cancel when the brake input.
pedal is pressed Faulty brake pedal
3. Do the brake pedal position
position switch
switch test, refer to
BRAKE PEDAL
POSITION SWITCH
TEST .
body DTCs.
test (see CRUISE
Set speed does not CONTROL INPUT Short in the LT
cancel (engine rpm TEST). Test the clutch BLU wire
stays high) when the pedal position switch signal Faulty clutch
clutch pedal is input. pedal position
pressed (M/T) 3. Do the clutch pedal switch
position switch test (see
CLUTCH PEDAL
POSITION SWITCH
TEST).

body DTCs.
Set speed does not 2. Do the cruise control input
cancel when the test (see CRUISE Short to ground in the
cruise control main CONTROL INPUT LT GRN wire
switch is turned off TEST). Test the cruise
control main switch signal
input.
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2007 Honda Accord

(see CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT).
body DTCs.
fuse/ relay box.
Set speed does not test (see CRUISE Open circuit, loose or
cancel when the CONTROL INPUT disconnected
cancel switch is TEST). Test the cruise terminals: YEL/RED
pressed control Cancel switch or GRY/RED wire
signal input.
(see CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT).
body DTCs.
2. Check the brake pedal
position switch adjustment,
refer to the 2003-2006
Accord Service Manual
(see FRONT BRAKE
CALIPER
OVERHAUL ).
Set speed will not fuse in the under-hood Open circuit,
resume when the fuse/relay box, and No. 18 loose or
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resume/accel switch is (15 A) fuse in the under- disconnected

pressed (with the dash fuse/ relay box. terminals: LT
cruise control main 4. Do the cruise control input GRN/BLK,
switch turned on, and test (see CIRCUIT GRY/RED wire
set speed temporarily DIAGRAM). Test the Faulty brake pedal
canceled by pressing cruise control position switch
the brake pedal) Resume/accel switch signal
input. Test the brake pedal
position switch signal
input.
(see CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT).
body DTCs.
Set speed will not test (see CIRCUIT
resume when the DIAGRAM). Test the Open circuit,
resume/accel switch is cruise control loose or
pressed (with the Resume/accel switch signal disconnected
cruise control main input. Test the clutch pedal terminals: LT
switch turned on, and position switch signal GRN/BLK wire
set speed temporarily input. Faulty clutch
canceled by pressing 3. Do the cruise control pedal position
the clutch pedal) combination switch test switch
(IWT) (see CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT).
CRUISE CONTROL INPUT TEST
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1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC)
(see step 2 IF THE MIL (MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP) HAS
COME ON ).
2. Go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A, and check for DTCs.
3. Go to PGM-FI SYSTEM (V6) , and check for DTCs.
5. Do the following tests while monitoring parameters in the PGM-FI DATA
LIST with the HDS.
NOTE: Intermittent failures are often caused by loose circuit

connections. While monitoring cruise control inputs,
flex their circuits, and note if any of the test result
change.
TEST CONDITION AND POSSIBLE CAUSE

Possible cause if
Signal to be Parameter: result is not
tested Test condition Desired result obtained
Faulty brake
pedal position
switch
Blown No. 18
CRUISE BRAKE (15A) fuse in
SW should indicate the under-dash
Brake pedal
Brake switch OFF when the brake fuse/relay box
pressed, then
signal pedal is pressed and An open in the
released
ON when the brake wire between
pedal is released. the ECM/ PCM
and the brake
pedal position
switch
A wire shorted
to ground
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between the
ECM/PCM and
the brake pedal
position switch
SHIFT/CLUTCH Faulty clutch
SW should indicate pedal position
OFF when the switch
clutch pedal is An open in the
pressed and ON wire between
when the clutch the ECM and
pedal is released. the clutch
Clutch pedal Clutch pedal pedal position
position switch pressed, then switch
signal (M/T) released A wire shorted
to ground
between the
ECM and the
clutch pedal
position switch
Poor ground
G501
Faulty
transmission
range switch
An open in the
SHIFT/CLUTCH
SW should indicate wire between
Transmission the PCM and
Shift in lever D, OFF in P, R, and N
range switch the
D3, or 2 position position and ON in
signal (A/T) transmission
D, D3, and 2
position. range switch
A wire shorted
to ground
between the
PCM and the
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transmission
range switch
Poor ground
G101
Faulty cruise
control main
switch
An open in the
wire between
the gauge
control module
CRUISE and the cruise
CONTROL MAIN control main
SW should indicate switch
ON when the cruise A wire shorted
Cruise control Cruise control
control main switch to ground
main switch main switch ON
is turned ON and between the
signal and OFF
OFF when the gauge
cruise control main assembly and
switch is turned the cruise
OFF. control main
switch
An open in the
wire between
the cruise
control main
switch and
ground
Faulty cruise
control
combination
switch
An open in the
wire between
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the gauge
control module
and the cruise
CRUISE control
CONTROL SET combination
SW should indicate switch
Set/decel switch
ON when the A wire shorted
Set switch signal pressed and
Set/decel switch is to ground
released
pressed and OFF between the
when the Set/ decel gauge control
switch is released. module and the
cruise control
combination
switch
Faulty cruise
control
combination
switch
An open in the
CRUISE wire between
CONTROL the gauge
RESUME SW control module
should indicate ON and the cruise
Resume/accel
Resume switch when the control
switch pressed
signal resume/accel switch combination
and released
is pressed and OFF switch
when the A wire shorted
resume/accel switch to ground
is released. between the
gauge control
module and the
cruise control
combination
switch
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CRUISE
CONTROL
CANCEL SW
Cancel switch should indicate ON Faulty cruise
Cancel switch
pressed and when the cancel control combination
signal
released switch is pressed switch
and OFF when the
cancel switch is
released.
Start the engine,
CRUISE
turn the cruise Faulty gauge
INDICATOR
control main control module
should indicate ON
switch on, and A burnt cruise
Cruise control when the cruise
drive the vehicle control
indicator signal control is set and
to speeds over 25 indicator bulb
OFF when the
mph (40km/h). (2003-2005
cruise control is
Set and cancel the models).
canceled.
cruise
CRUISE CONTROL COMBINATION SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and
the precautions and procedures, refer to SRS (SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT
SYSTEM) Accord (Except Hybrid & V6) , before performing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag, refer to SRS (SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT

SYSTEM) Accord (Except Hybrid & V6) .
2. Remove the two screws, then disconnect the connector, and remove the switch.
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Fig. 3: Identifying Cruise Control Main Switch

3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according
to .
If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred
on the cruise control unit input test, check and repair the wire harness on
the switch circuit.
If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch.
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Fig. 4: Cruise Control Main Switch Connector Continuity Check Table

CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH TEST
1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the clutch pedal position switch (A).
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Fig. 5: Identifying 3P Connector And Clutch Pedal Position Switch

2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch.

3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to .
If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position
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switch.
If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch, and adjust the pedal height
(see CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH,
AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT). ).
Fig. 6: Clutch Pedal Position Switch Connector Continuity Check Table

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Cruise Control - Accord
Cruise Control - Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Cruise Control Components

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Cruise Control Components (2003-05 Models)

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Fig. 3: Locating Cruise Control Components (2006 Models)

'03-05 MODELS

body DTCs.
2. Check horn operation.
3. Check the cruise control
combination switch (see
CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
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SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
4. Test the brake pedal
position switch (see
BRAKE SYSTEM
TEST ), and check its
adjustment (see BRAKE Blown No. 13
PEDAL AND BRAKE (20A) fuse in the
PEDAL POSITION under-hood
SWITCH fuse/relay box
ADJUSTMENT ).
Blown No. 18
5. Test the clutch pedal (15A) fuse in the
position switch (see under-dash
CLUTCH PEDAL fuse/relay box
POSITION SWITCH
Poor ground:
TEST ), and check its
G202, G501
Cruise control cannot adjustment (M/T) (see
be set CLUTCH PEDAL, Faulty horn relay
CLUTCH PEDAL Faulty ECM/PCM
POSITION SWITCH, Open circuit, loose
AND CLUTCH or disconnected
INTERLOCK SWITCH terminals:
ADJUSTMENT ). GRN/YEL, LT
6. Do the cruise control unit GRN, PNK, LT
input test (see CRUISE GRN/BLK,
CONTROL UNIT INPUT GRY/RED, LT
TEST ). BLU (M/T), PNK
7. Check for continuity (A/T)
between engine control
module (ECM)/powertrain
control module (PCM)
connector terminal E26 and
cruise control unit 14P
connector terminal No. 12.
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If there is continuity,
replace the ECM/PCM
(see ECM/PCM
REPLACEMENT ).
If there is no
continuity, repair open
or short in the wire.
Faulty gauge
Cruise control can be Do the gauge control module control module
set, but the cruise self-diagnostic function (see Open circuit, loose
main indicator does SELF-DIAGNOSTIC or disconnected
not come on FUNCTION ). terminals: LT
GRN
module self-diagnostic Faulty gauge
function (see SELF- control module
Cruise control can be DIAGNOSTIC Open circuit, loose
set, but the cruise FUNCTION ). or disconnected
control indicator 2. Do the cruise control unit terminals:
does not come on input test on terminal No. BLU/YEL
10 (see CRUISE Poor ground:
CONTROL UNIT INPUT G501
TEST ).

actuator (see CRUISE
CONTROL ACTUATOR
Cruise speed is TEST ).
noticeably higher or 2. Adjust the cruise control
lower than what was actuator cable (see
set CRUISE CONTROL
ACTUATOR CABLE
ADJUSTMENT ).
3. Do the cruise control unit
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input test on terminal No.

12 (see CRUISE
CONTROL UNIT INPUT
TEST ).
CONTROL ACTUATOR
TEST ).
2. Adjust the cruise control
Excessive actuator cable (see
overshooting or CRUISE CONTROL
undershooting when ACTUATOR CABLE
trying to set speed ADJUSTMENT ).
12 (see CRUISE
CONTROL UNIT INPUT
TEST ).
CONTROL ACTUATOR
TEST ).
2. Adjust the cruise control
Speed fluctuates on a actuator cable (see
flat road with the CRUISE CONTROL
cruise control set ACTUATOR CABLE
ADJUSTMENT ).
12 (see CRUISE
CONTROL UNIT INPUT
TEST ).
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CRUISE CONTROL
Vehicle does not COMBINATION
decelerate or SWITCH
accelerate TEST/REPLACEMENT ). Open circuit, loose or
accordingly when the disconnected terminals:
set/decel, 2. Do the cruise control unit GRN/RED, LT
resume/accel, or input test on terminals No. 6 GRN/BLK
cancel switch is and No. 7 (see CRUISE
pressed CONTROL UNIT INPUT
TEST ).
14 (see CRUISE
CONTROL UNIT INPUT
TEST ).
Set speed does not 2. Test the clutch pedal Short to ground in
cancel (engine rpm position switch (see the LT BLU wire
stays high) when the CLUTCH PEDAL
Faulty clutch
clutch pedal is POSITION SWITCH
pedal position
pressed (M/T) TEST ), and check its
switch
adjustment (see CLUTCH
PEDAL, CLUTCH
PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH, AND CLUTCH
INTERLOCK SWITCH
ADJUSTMENT ).
Set speed does not Short to ground in
Do the cruise control unit input
cancel (engine rpm the PNK wire
test on terminal No. 14 (see
stays high) when the Faulty
CRUISE CONTROL UNIT
shift lever is moved transmission range
INPUT TEST ).
to N (A/T) switch
input test on terminals No. 1
and No. 5 (see CRUISE
CONTROL UNIT INPUT
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2007 Honda Accord
TEST ).
2. Test the brake pedal Short to power on
position switch (see BRN/BLK wire
Set speed does not BRAKE SYSTEM
Open circuit, loose
cancel when the INSPECTION AND
or disconnected
brake pedal is TEST ), and check its
terminals:
pressed adjustment (see BRAKE
WHT/BLK
PEDAL AND BRAKE
Faulty brake pedal
PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH position switch
ADJUSTMENT ).
CRUISE CONTROL
Set speed does not COMBINATION
cancel when the SWITCH Short to power on PNK
cruise control main TEST/REPLACEMENT ). wire
switch is pressed 2. Do the cruise control unit
input test on terminal No. 2
(see CRUISE CONTROL
UNIT INPUT TEST ).
CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
Set speed does not Open circuit, loose or
SWITCH
cancel when the disconnected terminals:
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
cancel switch is LT GRN/BLK or
pressed 2. Do the cruise control unit GRY/RED
input test on terminals No. 6
and No. 7 (see CRUISE
CONTROL UNIT INPUT
TEST ).
Set speed will not combination switch (see
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2007 Honda Accord
resume when the CRUISE CONTROL

resume/accel switch COMBINATION
is pressed (with the SWITCH Open circuit, loose or
cruise control main TEST/REPLACEMENT ). disconnected terminals:
switch turned on, and 2. Do the cruise control unit BRN/BLK,
set speed temporarily input test on terminals No. WHT/BLK, LT
canceled by pressing 1, No. 5 and No. 7 (see GRN/BLK
the brake pedal) CRUISE CONTROL
UNIT INPUT TEST ).
The transmission Troubleshoot the cruise control
shifts down slower communication circuit (see
Open circuit, loose or
than normal when CRUISE CONTROL
disconnected terminals:
going uphill with the COMMUNICATION
BLU/BLK
cruise control on CIRCUIT
(A/T) TROUBLESHOOTING ).
2006-07 MODELS
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX ('06-07 MODELS)


body DTCs.
fuse/relay box, and the No.
18 (15 A) fuse in the under-
Cruise control
dash fuse/relay box. Poor ground G501
cannot be set
test (see CRUISE
CONTROL INPUT
TEST ).
combination switch test (see
CRUISE CONTROL
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COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
body DTCs.
function procedure (see
Cruise control can be SELF-DIAGNOSTIC
set, but the cruise FUNCTION ). Faulty gauge control
main indicator does 3. Do the cruise control input module
not come on test (see CRUISE
CONTROL INPUT
TEST ).
Test the cruise control

master button signal input.
body DTCs.
function procedure (see
Cruise control can be SELF-DIAGNOSTIC
set, but the cruise FUNCTION ). Faulty gauge control
control indicator 3. Do the cruise control input module
does not come on test (see CRUISE
CONTROL INPUT
TEST ).

indicator signal input.
body DTCs.
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test (see CRUISE

CONTROL INPUT
TEST ).
Vehicle does not
decelerate or
Set/decel and Resume/accel Open circuit, loose or
accelerate
switch signal inputs. disconnected terminals:
accordingly when
LT GRN/BLK or
the set/decel or 3. Do the cruise control GRY/RED wire
resume/accel switch combination switch test (see
is pressed CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
body DTCs.
test (see CRUISE
CONTROL INPUT
Set speed does not TEST ). Short in the
cancel when the BRN/BLK wire
brake pedal is Test the brake pedal Faulty brake pedal
pressed position switch signal input. position switch
3. Do the brake pedal position

switch test (see BRAKE
SYSTEM INSPECTION
AND TEST ).

body DTCs.
test (see CRUISE
Set speed does not CONTROL INPUT
cancel (engine rpm TEST ). Short in the LT
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2007 Honda Accord
stays high) when the Test the clutch pedal BLU wire
clutch pedal is position switch signal input. Faulty clutch pedal
pressed (M/T) position switch
3. Do the clutch pedal position
switch test (see CRUISE
CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
body DTCs.
test (see CRUISE
CONTROL INPUT
TEST ).
Set speed does not
cancel when the Test the cruise control main Short to ground in the
cruise control main switch signal input. LT GRN wire
switch is turned off
CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).

body DTCs.
Set speed does not Open circuit, loose or
cancel when the 2. Do the cruise control input disconnected terminals:
cancel switch is test (see CRUISE LT GRN/BLK or
pressed CONTROL INPUT GRY/RED wire
TEST ).

Cancel switch signal input.
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CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
body DTCs.
2. Check the brake pedal
position switch adjustment
(see SYMPTOM
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Set speed will not
resume when the
test (see CRUISE Open circuit, loose
resume/accel switch
CONTROL INPUT or disconnected
is pressed (with the
TEST ). terminals: LT
cruise control main
GRN/BLK,
switch turned on, Test the cruise control GRY/RED wire
and set speed Resume/accel switch signal
temporarily canceled Faulty brake pedal
input. Test the brake pedal position switch
by pressing the brake position switch signal input.
pedal)
CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).

body DTCs.
2. Check the clutch pedal
position switch adjustment
(see CLUTCH PEDAL,
CLUTCH PEDAL
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POSITION SWITCH,
AND CLUTCH
INTERLOCK SWITCH
ADJUSTMENT ).
Set speed will not test (see CRUISE
resume when the CONTROL INPUT
resume/accel switch TEST ). Open circuit, loose
is pressed (with the or disconnected
cruise control main Test the cruise control terminals: LT
switch turned on, Resume/accel switch signal GRN/BLK wire
and set speed input. Test the clutch pedal Faulty clutch pedal
temporarily canceled position switch signal input. position switch
by pressing the
clutch pedal) (M/T) 4. Do the cruise control
CRUISE CONTROL
COMBINATION
SWITCH
TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
'03-05 MODELS
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Fig. 4: Cruise Control Circuit Diagram (2003-05 Models)

'06-07 MODELS
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Fig. 5: Cruise Control Circuit Diagram (2006 Models)

CRUISE CONTROL COMMUNICATION CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
A/T ('03-05 MODELS)
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2. Turn on the cruise control main switch, then drive the vehicle at speeds over 25
mph (40 km/h) with the cruise control.
Does the cruise control operate?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Check the cruise control unit (see CRUISE CONTROL UNIT
INPUT TEST ) or cruise control actuator.
(see step 2 in HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC
SYSTEM) ). Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the
HDS, then turn the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the powertrain

control module (PCM) from damage.
5. Disconnect PCM connector D (17P) and cruise control unit 14P connector.
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Body Ground
YES - Repair a short to ground in the wire between PCM connector

terminal D12 and the cruise control unit 14P connector terminal No. 8.
NO - Go to step 7.
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7. Reconnect PCM connector D (17P) and the cruise control unit 14P connector.
8. Connect a voltmeter between cruise control unit 14P connector terminal No. 8
and body ground. Test-drive the vehicle at speeds over 25 mph (40 km/h) with
the cruise control set, and watch the voltmeter.
Fig. 7: Connecting Voltmeter Between Cruise Control Unit 14P Connector

Is there about 1 V?
YES - Go to step 9.
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NO - Substitute a known-good cruise control unit. If the system works

properly, replace the cruise control unit.
9. Connect a voltmeter between PCM connector terminal D12 and body ground.
Drive the vehicle at speeds over 25 mph (40 km/h) with the cruise control set,
and watch the voltmeter.
Fig. 8: Connecting Voltmeter Between PCM Connector Terminal D12

And Body Ground
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Is there about 1 V?
YES - Check for a loose connector or wire between the cruise control unit
and the PCM. If the wire is OK, update the PCM. If it does not have the
latest software (see UPDATING THE ECM/PCM ), substitute a known-
good PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), and recheck. If the
system works properly, replace the original PCM (see ECM/PCM
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal D12
and the control unit 14P connector terminal No. 8.
CRUISE CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST
'03-05 MODELS
There are SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component
locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ) and precautions and
procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ), before doing repairs or
service.
1. Disconnect the 14P connector from the control unit.

2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to make sure they are all making
good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and
recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, go to step 3.
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Fig. 9: Inspecting Connector And Socket Terminals

3. With the 14P connector disconnected, do these input tests.

If test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the
system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the cruise control unit may by faulty.
Substitute a known-good cruise control unit, and retest. If the system
works properly, replace the cruise control unit.
CRUISE CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (2003-05 MODELS)

Test:
Test Possible cause if result is not
Cavity Wire Desired
condition obtained
result
Check the
operation of
the Faulty brake pedal position
magnetic switch
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clutch: Faulty actuator

Clutch Poor ground (G202)
Connect should click
1 BRN/BLK An open in the wire
battery power and output
link should Short to ground
be locked.
Check for
continuity
Under all to ground: Poor ground (G501)
3 BLK
conditions There An open in the wire
should be
continuity.
Check for
voltage to
Blown No. 18 (15A) fuse
Ignition ground:
in the under-dash
4 BLK/RED switch ON There
fuse/relay box
(II) should be
battery An open in the wire
voltage.
Check for
voltage to
ground:
There Blown No. 13 (20A) fuse
should be in the under-hood
Brake pedal fuse/relay box
battery
5 WHT/BLK pressed, then
voltage with Faulty brake pedal position
released
the pedal switch
pressed, and An open in the wire
0 V with the
pedal
released.
Check for
voltage to
ground:
There
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should be
battery
voltage.
When
Set/decel testing
6 GRY/RED switch terminal
pressed No. 6, there
should be
no voltage
on terminal Blown No. 13 (20A) fuse
No. 7. in the under-hood
Check for fuse/relay box
voltage to Faulty horn relay
ground: Faulty cruise control
There combination switch
should be Faulty cable reel
battery
An open in the wire
Resume/accel voltage.
LT
7 switch When
GRN/BLK
pressed testing
terminal
No. 7, there
should be
no voltage
on terminal
No. 6.
Connect
battery power Check the
9 BRN/YEL
to the operation of
BRN/YEL the actuator Faulty actuator
terminal and motor: You An open in the wire
ground to the should hear
11 BRN/WHT
BRN/WHT the motor.
terminal
Attach to
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ground:
CRUISE
CONTROL Blown bulb
Ignition
indicator in Faulty gauge control
10 BLU/YEL switch ON
the gauge module
(II)
assembly An open in the wire
should
comes on.
Ignition
switch ON
(II) and cruise
control main Check for
switch ON; voltage
raise the front between the
of the vehicle, BLU/WHT
and rotate one (+) and Faulty ECM/PCM
BLK (-)
12 BLU/WHT wheel slowly An open in the wire
while holding terminal: Short to ground
the other There
wheel should be 0-
--5 V or
NOTE: more
This input test repeatedly.
must be done
with the 14P
connector
reconnected.
Check for
continuity
between
No. 2
terminal
and No. 13
terminal:
There
should be Faulty cruise control
Cruise control continuity combination switch
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main switch with the Faulty cable reel

ON, then OFF cruise An open in the wire
control
main switch
ON and no
13 LT GRN continuity
with the
cruise
control
main switch
OFF.
Check for
continuity
to ground:
There
should be Faulty clutch pedal
M/T: LT Clutch pedal continuity. position switch
BLU released Poor ground (G501)
NOTE:
There should An open in the wire
be no
continuity
when the
clutch pedal is
pressed.
14 Check for
continuity
to ground:
There
should be
Shift lever in continuity. Faulty ECM/PCM
A/T: PNK
D, D3 NOTE: An open in the wire
There should
be no
continuity
when shift
lever is in
other
positions.
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Reconnect the
cruise control
unit 14P Check for
connector, voltage to Blown No. 18 (15A) fuse
turn the ground: in the under-dash
2 PNK ignition There fuse/relay box
switch ON should be Faulty cruise control unit
(II), and battery Short to ground
cruise control voltage.
main switch
ON
Reconnect the
cruise control
unit 14P Blown No. 18 (15A) fuse
connector, in the under-hood
start the fuse/relay box
engine, press Check for Faulty cruise control unit
the cruise voltage to Short to ground
control main ground: Cruise control
8 BLU/BLK
switch ON, There communication circuit
and drive the should be problem (see CRUISE
vehicle at about 1V CONTROL
speeds over COMMUNICATION
25 mph (40 CIRCUIT
km/h) with TROUBLESHOOTING )
the cruise
control set
CRUISE CONTROL INPUT TEST

'06-07 MODELS
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector
(DLC).
2. Go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A, and check for DTCs.
3. Go to PGM-FI, and check for DTCs.
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2007 Honda Accord

5. Do the following tests while monitoring parameters in the PGM-FI DATA
LIST with the HDS.
NOTE: Intermittent failures are often caused by loose circuit

connections. While monitoring cruise control inputs, flex
the circuits, and note if any of the test result change.
CRUISE CONTROL INPUT TEST ('06-07 MODEL)

Possible cause if
Signal to be Parameter: result is not
tested Test condition Desired result obtained
Faulty brake
pedal position
switch
Blown No. 18
(15 A) fuse in
the under-dash
fuse/relay box
CRUISE BRAKE
An open in the
SW should indicate
Brake pedal wire between
Brake switch OFF when the brake
pressed, then the ECM/PCM
signal pedal is pressed and
released and the brake
ON when the brake
pedal is released. pedal position
switch
A wire shorted
to ground
between the
ECM/PCM and
the brake pedal
position switch
Faulty clutch
pedal position
switch
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An open in the
wire between
the ECM and
SHIFT/CLUTCH the clutch pedal
SW should indicate position switch
Clutch pedal Clutch pedal OFF when the A wire shorted
position switch pressed, then clutch pedal is to ground
signal (M/T) released pressed and ON between the
when the clutch ECM and the
pedal is released. clutch pedal
position switch
Poor ground
G501
SHIFT/TRANS Faulty
RANGE SW should transmission
indicate OFF in P, range switch
R, and N position An open in the
and ON in D, and wire between
D3 position. the PCM and
the
Transmission transmission
Shift lever in D,
range switch range switch
or D3 position
signal (A/T) A wire shorted
to ground
between the
PCM and the
transmission
range switch
Poor ground
G101
Faulty cruise
control
combination
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switch
An open in the
wire between
the gauge
assembly and
the cruise
control
combination
CRUISE MASTER switch
SW should indicate A wire shorted
ON when the cruise to ground
Cruise control Cruise control control main switch between the
main switch main switch ON is turned ON and gauge
signal and OFF OFF when the assembly and
cruise control main the cruise
switch is turned control
OFF. combination
switch
An open in the
wire between
the cruise
control
combination
switch and the
ground
Faulty cruise
control
combination
switch
An open in the
wire between
the gauge
CRUISE SET SW assembly and
should indicate ON the cruise
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2007 Honda Accord
when the Set/decel control

switch is pressed combination
and OFF when the switch
Set/decel switch is A wire shorted
released. to ground
Set/decel switch
Set switch signal pressed and between the
released gauge
assembly and
the cruise
control
combination
switch
Faulty cruise
control
combination
switch
An open in the
wire between
CRUISE RESUME the gauge
SW should indicate assembly and
ON when the the cruise
Resume/accel control
Resume switch Resume/accel is
pressed and combination
signal pressed and OFF
released switch
when the
Resume/accel is A wire shorted
released. to ground
between the
gauge
assembly and
the cruise
control
combination
switch
CRUISE CANCEL
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SW should indicate
ON when the Faulty cruise
Cancel switch
Cancel switch Cancel switch is control
pressed and
signal pressed and OFF combination
released
when the Cancel switch
switch is released.
CRUISE CONTROL COMBINATION SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see
COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ) and precautions and procedures (see
PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ), before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).

2. Remove the two screws, then disconnect the connector, and remove the switch.
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Fig. 10: Disconnecting Connector And Removing Switch

to Fig. 11 .
If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred
on the cruise control unit input test, check and repair the wire harness on
the switch circuit.
If there is no continuity in one or both positions, replace the switch.
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Fig. 11: Checking Continuity Between Terminals Chart

CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR TEST
'03-05 MODELS
1. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the actuator (B).
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Fig. 12: Disconnecting 4P Connector From Actuator

2. Remove the cover (A), and check the output linkage (B) for smooth movement.
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Fig. 13: Removing Cover And Checking Output Linkage For Smooth
Movement
3. Connect battery power to the No. 2 terminal and ground to the No. 1 terminal.
4. Check for a clicking sound from the magnetic clutch. The output linkage
should be locked. If the output linkage is not locked, replace the actuator
assembly.
5. Check the operation of the actuator motor in each output linkage position
according to the table below. You should hear the motor.
ACTUATOR MOTOR OPERATION

Battery power polarities Output linkage position
MIDDLE
(+) (-) FULL CLOSE FULL OPEN
POSITION
No. 4 No. 3 The motor The motor
The motor runs.
Terminal Terminal runs. stops.
No. 3 No. 4 The motor The motor
The motor runs.
Terminal Terminal stops. runs.
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Fig. 14: Checking Operation Of Actuator Motor In Each Output Linkage

Position
6. If the actuator motor does not operate as specified, replace the actuator
assembly.
CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR/CABLE REPLACEMENT
'03-05 MODELS
1. Loosen the locknut (A), then remove the cruise control cable (B) from the
throttle linkage.
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Fig. 15: Removing Cruise Control Cable From Throttle Linkage

2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A), and remove the actuator cover (B), then
remove the bolts securing the actuator.
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Fig. 16: Disconnecting 4P Connector And Removing Actuator Cover

3. Remove the actuator cable from the actuator.
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Fig. 17: Removing Actuator Cable From Actuator

4. Install in the reverse order of removal, and adjust the free play at the throttle
linkage after connecting the cruise control cable.
CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR CABLE ADJUSTMENT
'03-05 MODELS
1. Check that the actuator cable (A) moves smoothly with no binding or sticking.
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Fig. 18: Checking Actuator Cable Moves Smoothly With No Binding Or

Sticking
2. Measure the amount of movement of the output linkage (B) until the engine
speed starts to increase. At first, the output linkage should be located at the
fully closed position (C). The free play (D) should be 3.75+/-0.5 mm (0.15+/-
0.02 in.).
3. If the free play is not within specifications, loosen the locknut (E), and turn the
adjusting nut (F) until the free play is as specified, then retighten the locknut.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH TEST
1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the clutch pedal position switch.
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Fig. 19: Disconnecting 3P Connector From Clutch Pedal Position Switch

2. Check for continuity between the terminals according to Fig. 20 .
If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position
switch.
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If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch, and adjust the pedal height
(see CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH,
AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT ).
Fig. 20: Checking Continuity Between Terminals Chart

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2003-07 ENGINE Cylinder Head - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Cylinder Head - Accord (V6)
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2006 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Cylinder Head Components (1 Of 3)

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ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
NOTE: After this inspection, you must select engine control

module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) reset using
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the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) (see HDS CLEAR

COMMAND ), otherwise ECM/PCM continues to stop the
fuel injectors from operating.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (see GENERAL
4. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, and then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
5. Remove the six ignition coils (see IGNITION COIL
6. Remove the six spark plugs.
7. Attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole.
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Fig. 5: Attaching Compression Gauge To Spark Plug Hole

8. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and
measure the compression.
Compression Pressure:
2
Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm , 135 psi)
9. Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders.
Maximum Variation:
2
Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm , 28 psi)
10. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then
remeasure the compression.
Damaged or worn valves and seats
Damaged cylinder head gaskets
Damaged or worn piston rings
Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore
11. Select ECM/PCM reset (see ECM/PCM RESET ) to cancel the ALL
INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.
VTEC ROCKER ARM TEST
VTEC air adapter 07VAJ-P8A010A

VTEC air stopper 070AJ-0030100
Air pressure regulator 07AAJ-PNAA100
1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn OFF the ignition switch.
2. Remove the cylinder head covers (see CYLINDER HEAD COVER
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REMOVAL).
3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC) (see step 2 VALVE
CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT).
4. Push on the intake mid rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. The mid rocker
arm should move independently of the primary rocker arm (B) and secondary
rocker arm (C).
If the intake mid rocker arm does not move, remove the mid, primary, and
secondary intake rocker arms as an assembly, then check that the pistons
in the mid and primary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm
needs replacing, replace the mid, primary, and secondary rocker arms as
an assembly, and retest.
If the mid rocker arm moves freely repeat the above procedure for the
remaining intake mid rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all the
mid rocker arms pass the test, go to step 5.
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Fig. 6: Pushing On Intake Mid Rocker Arm For No. 1 Cylinder

5. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over
2
690 kPa (7.0 kgf/cm , 100 psi).
6. Inspect the valve clearance (see step 3 ).
7. Remove the No. 1 and No. 6 intake rocker shaft mounting bolts, then install
and connect the special tools as shown in Fig. 7 or Fig. 8.
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Fig. 7: Removing Intake Rocker Shaft Mounting Bolts Using Special Tool
(Front)
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Fig. 8: Removing Intake Rocker Shaft Mounting Bolts Using Special Tool
(Rear)
8. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure.
Specified Air Pressure:

2
440-540 kPa (4.5-5.5 kgf/cm , 64-78 psi)
NOTE: If the synchronizing pistons do not move after applying

air pressure, move the primary or secondary rocker arm
up and down manually.
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9. Make sure that the intake primary rocker arm (A) and intake secondary rocker
arm (B) are mechanically connected by the piston and that the mid rocker arm
(C) does not move when pushed manually. If any intake mid rocker arm moves
independently of the primary and secondary rocker arms, replace the rocker
arms as a set.
Fig. 9: Making Sure Intake Primary And Secondary Arm Are Connected
By Piston

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11. Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 24 N.m (2.4 kgf.m, 17 lbf.ft)
12. Install the cylinder head covers (see CYLINDER HEAD COVER
INSTALLATION).
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature
is less than 100F (38C).

REMOVAL).
2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC).
Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 1 piston TDC mark
(B) on the front camshaft pulley.
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Fig. 10: Aligning Pointer On Front Upper Cover With No. 1 Piston TDC
Mark On Front Camshaft Pulley
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
Valve Clearance
Intake: 0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.)
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Exhaust: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)

Adjusting screw locations:
Fig. 11: Adjusting Screw Locations (Rear)

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Fig. 12: Adjusting Screw Locations (Front)

4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the
valve stem on No. 1 cylinder, and slide it back and forth; you should feel a
slight amount of drag.
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Fig. 13: Inserting Feeler Gauge Between Adjusting Screw And End Of
Valve Stem On No. 1 Cylinder
5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the
adjusting screw (B) until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
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Fig. 14: Loosening Locknut And Turning Adjusting Screw

6. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if
necessary.
7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover
with the No. 4 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
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8. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder.

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INSTALLATION).
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Holder handle 07JAB-001020A

Holder attachment, 50 mm, offset 07MAB-PY3010A
Socket, 19 mm 07JAA-001020A, or a commercially available 19 mm socket
REMOVAL
1. Remove the right front tire/wheel.

Fig. 20: Identifying Splash Shield

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4. Hold the pulley with the holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B).
Fig. 21: Holding Pulley With Holder Handle & Attachment

5. Remove the bolt with a heavy duty 19 mm socket (C) and breaker bar, then
remove the crankshaft pulley.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove any oil or clean the pulleys (A), crankshaft (B), bolt (C), and washer
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(D). Lubricate with new engine oil as shown in Fig. 22.
Fig. 22: Identifying Lubricating Points

2. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt. Do not use an impact wrench.
-1 Hold the pulley with the holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B),
then tighten the bolt to 64 N.m (6.5 kgf.m, 47 lbf.ft) with a torque wrench
and 19 mm socket (C).
-2 Mark (D) the bolt head and crankshaft pulley as shown in Fig. 23, then
tighten the bolt an additional 60 (The mark on the bolt head line up with
the mark on the crankshaft pulley).
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Fig. 23: Identifying Crankshaft Pulley

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5. Install the right front tire/wheel.
TIMING BELT INSPECTION
1. Remove the ignition coil cover.
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Fig. 24: Identifying Ignition Coil Cover


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3. Remove the front upper cover.
Fig. 25: Identifying Front Upper Cover

4. Inspect the timing belt for cracks and oil or coolant soaking. Replace the belt if
it is cracked or soaked. Remove any oil or solvent that gets on the belt.
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Fig. 26: Inspecting Timing Belt For Cracks And Oil Or Coolant Soaking
TIMING BELT REMOVAL
1. Turn the crankshaft so its white mark (A) lines up with the pointer (B).
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Fig. 27: Aligning White Mark With Pointer

2. Check that the No. 1 piston top dead center (TDC) mark (A) on the front
camshaft pulley and the pointer (B) on the front upper cover are aligned.
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Fig. 28: Aligning No. 1 Piston TDC Mark With Pointer On Front Upper
Cover
3. Remove the right front tire/wheel.
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7. Support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan.
8. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the side engine mount bracket (B).
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Fig. 30: Identifying Ground Cable And Side Engine Mount Bracket
9. Remove the front upper cover (A) and rear upper cover (B).
Fig. 31: Identifying Front Upper Cover And Rear Upper Cover
10. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see step 4 ).

11. Remove the lower cover.
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Fig. 32: Identifying Lower Cover

12. Remove one of the battery clamp bolts from the battery tray, and grind the end
of it as shown in Fig. 33.
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Fig. 33: Removing Battery Clamp Bolts From Battery Tray

13. Screw the battery clamp bolt in as shown in Fig. 34 to hold the timing belt
adjuster in its current position.
Tighten it by hand; do not use a wrench.
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Fig. 34: Identifying Battery Clamp Bolt

14. Remove the engine mount bracket.
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Fig. 35: Removing Engine Mount Bracket

15. Remove the idler pulley bolt (A) and idler pulley (B), then remove the timing
belt.
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Fig. 36: Identifying Idler Pulley Bolt And Idler Pulley

TIMING BELT INSTALLATION
NOTE: The following procedure is for installation of a used belt. If

you are installing a new belt, refer to the TIMING BELT
REPLACEMENT .
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1. Clean the timing belt pulleys, timing belt guide plate, and the upper and lower
covers.
2. Set the timing belt drive pulley to top dead center (TDC) by aligning the TDC
mark (A) on the tooth of the timing belt drive pulley with the pointer (B) on the
oil pump.
Fig. 37: Aligning Timing Marks

3. Set the camshaft pulleys to TDC by aligning the TDC marks (A) on the
camshaft pulleys with the pointers (B) on the back covers.
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Fig. 38: Aligning TDC Marks On Camshaft Pulleys With Pointers On

Back Covers (Front)
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Back Covers (Rear)
4. Apply liquid thread lock (P/N 08713-0001) to the idler pulley bolt, then loosely
install the idler pulley.
5. If the auto-tensioner has extended and the timing belt cannot be installed,
perform the TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT .
6. Install the timing belt in a counterclockwise sequence starting with the drive
pulley. Take care not to damage the timing belt when installing it.
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Fig. 40: Installing Timing Belt Counterclockwise In Sequence

7. Tighten the idler pulley bolt.
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Fig. 41: Tightening Idler Pulley Bolt

8. Remove the battery clamp bolt from the back cover.
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Fig. 42: Identifying Battery Clamp Bolt From Back Cover

9. Install the engine mount bracket.
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Fig. 43: Identifying Engine Mount Bracket

10. Install the timing belt guide plate as shown in Fig. 44.
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Fig. 44: Identifying Timing Belt Guide Plate

11. Install the lower cover.
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12. Install the crankshaft pulley (see INSTALLATION).

13. Install the front upper cover (A) and rear upper cover (B).
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Fig. 46: Identifying Front Upper Cover And Rear Upper Cover
14. Rotate the crankshaft pulley about five or six turns clockwise so the timing belt
positions itself on the pulleys.
15. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its white mark (A) lines up with the pointer (B).
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Fig. 47: Aligning Crankshaft Pulley Marks

16. Check the camshaft pulley marks.

If the camshaft pulley marks are at TDC, go to step 17.
If the camshaft pulley marks are not at TDC, remove the timing belt and
repeat steps 2 through 16.
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Fig. 48: Identifying Front Camshaft Pulley Marks

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Fig. 49: Identifying Rear Camshaft Pulley Marks

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17. Install the side engine mount bracket (A), then tighten the bolts in the
numbered sequence shown in Fig. 50.
Fig. 50: Identifying Side Engine Mount Bracket In Sequence

18. Install the ground cable (B).
REPLACEMENT ).
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23. Do the crankshaft position (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure
(see CKP PATTERN CLEAR/CKP PATTERN LEARN ).
TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the timing belt (see TIMING BELT REMOVAL).

covers.
3. Set the timing belt drive pulley to TDC by aligning the TDC mark (A) on the
tooth of the timing belt drive pulley with the pointer (B) on the oil pump.
Fig. 51: Aligning Timing Marks

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Back Covers (Front)
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Back Covers (Rear)

6. Remove the auto-tensioner.
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Fig. 54: Identifying Auto-Tensioner

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7. Align the holes on the rod and housing of the auto-tensioner.
Fig. 55: Aligning Holes On Rod And Housing Of Auto-Tensioner

8. Use a hydraulic press to slowly compress the auto-tensioner. Insert a 2.0 mm

(0.08 in.) pin through the housing and the rod.
NOTE: The compression pressure should not exceed 9,800 N

(1,000 kgf, 2,200 lbf).
9. Install the auto-tensioner.
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NOTE: Make sure the pin stays in place.
Fig. 56: Identifying Auto-Tensioner

10. Screw the battery clamp bolt in as shown in Fig. 57 to hold the timing belt
adjuster. Tighten it by hand; do not use a wrench.
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Fig. 57: Screwing Battery Clamp Bolt

11. Apply liquid thread lock (P/N 08713-0001) to the idler pulley bolt, then loosely
install the idler pulley.
12. Install the timing belt in a counterclockwise sequence starting with the drive
pulley.
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Fig. 58: Installing Timing Belt Counterclockwise In Sequence

13. Tighten the idler pulley bolt.
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Fig. 59: Tightening Idler Pulley Bolt

14. Remove the pin from the auto-tensioner.
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Fig. 60: Removing Pin From Auto-Tensioner

16. Install the engine mount bracket.
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Fig. 61: Identifying Battery Clamp Bolt From Back Cover

17. Install the timing belt guide plate as shown in Fig. 62.
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Fig. 62: Identifying Timing Belt Guide Plate

18. Install the lower cover.
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19. Install the crankshaft pulley (see INSTALLATION).

20. Install the front upper cover (A) and rear upper cover (B).
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Fig. 64: Identifying Front Upper Cover (A) And Rear Upper Cover
21. Rotate the crankshaft pulley about five or six turns clockwise so the timing belt
positions itself on the pulleys.
22. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its white mark (A) lines up with the pointer (B).
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Fig. 65: Aligning Crankshaft Pulley Marks

23. Check the camshaft pulley marks.
If the camshaft pulley marks are at TDC, go to step 24.
If the camshaft pulley marks are not at TDC, remove the timing belt and
repeat steps 2 through 23.
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Fig. 66: Identifying Front Camshaft Pulley Marks

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Fig. 67: Identifying Rear Camshaft Pulley Marks

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24. Install the side engine mount bracket (A), then tighten the bolts in the
numbered sequence shown in Fig. 68.
Fig. 68: Tightening Side Engine Mount Bracket Bolt In Sequence

REPLACEMENT ).
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TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT

2. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (seeCKP SENSOR
REPLACEMENT ).
3. Remove the timing belt drive pulley.
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Fig. 69: Identifying Timing Belt Drive Pulley

4. Install the new timing belt drive pulley.

5. Install the CKP sensor (see CKP SENSOR REPLACEMENT ).
6. Install the timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSTALLATION).
TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT
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2. Remove the auto-tensioner (see step 5 ).

3. Remove the bolt (A), then remove the timing belt adjuster (B) and collar (C).
Fig. 70: Identifying Timing Belt Adjuster And Collar

4. Install the timing belt adjuster.

CYLINDER HEAD COVER REMOVAL
1. Remove the intake manifold (see REMOVAL ).

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3. Remove the three bolts (A) securing the harness holder, and remove the
dipstick (B).
Fig. 71: Identifying Harness Holder Bolts And Dipstick

4. Remove the bolt (A) securing the power steering hose clamp.
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Fig. 72: Identifying Power Steering Hose Clamp Bolt

5. Remove the two bolts (B) securing the harness holder.
6. Remove the breather hose (C).
7. Remove the cylinder head covers.
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Fig. 73: Identifying Cylinder Head Covers (Front)

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Fig. 74: Identifying Cylinder Head Covers (Rear)

CYLINDER HEAD COVER INSTALLATION
1. Check the spark plug seals for damage. If the seal is damaged, replace it.
2. Clean the head cover contacting surfaces with a shop towel.
3. Set the spark plug seals (A) on the spark plug tubes, and install the cylinder
head covers (B).
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Fig. 75: Identifying Cylinder Head Cover (Front)

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Fig. 76: Identifying Cylinder Head Cover (Rear)

4. Install the head cover gasket (A) in the groove of the cylinder head cover (B).
Make sure the head cover gasket is seated securely, then install new spark plug
seals (C) on the spark spug tubes, and install the sylinder head covers.
5. Visually check the spark plug seals for damage.
6. Inspect the cover washers (C). Replace any washer that is damaged or
deteriorated.
7. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts in
sequence, 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft).
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Fig. 77: Tightening Cylinder Head Cover Bolts In Sequence

8. Install the breather hose (A).
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Fig. 78: Identifying Breather Hose

9. Tighten the two bolts (B) securing the harness holder.

10. Tighten the bolt (C) securing the power steering hose bracket.
11. Tighten the three bolts (A) securing the harness holder, and Install the dipstick
(B).
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Fig. 79: Tightening Harness Holder Bolts And Identifying Dipstick

12. Install the six ignition coils (see IGNITION COIL
13. Install the intake manifold (see INSTALLATION ).
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL

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To avoid damage, unplug the wiring connectors

carefully while holding the connector portion.
To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the
engine coolant temperature drops below 100 F (38 C)
before loosening the cylinder head bolts.
Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also,
be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses,
or interfere with other parts.
OFF.
2. Relieve the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE RELIEVING ).
5. Remove the air cleaner, refer to AIR CLEANER
8. Remove the power steering (P/S) pump (A), and P/S hose clamp (B).
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Fig. 80: Identifying P/S Pump And P/S Hose Clamp


INSTALLATION ).
10. Remove the intake manifold (see REMOVAL ).
12. Remove these engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from
the cylinder head.
Six injector connectors
Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 1 connector
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Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 2 connector (2005-2007 models)

Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve connector
Rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve) connector
Rocker arm oil pressure switch (VTEC oil pressure switch) connector
Oil pressure switch connector
Two air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor connectors
Two secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) connectors
13. Remove the upper radiator hose (A), and lower radiator hose (B).
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14. Remove the heater hose (A) and water bypass hoses (B).
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Fig. 82: Identifying Heater Hose And Water Bypass Hoses

15. Remove the ground cable (A).
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Fig. 83: Identifying Ground Cable

16. Remove the bolt (B) securing the harness bracket.
17. Remove the fuel rails.
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Fig. 84: Identifying Fuel Rails

18. Remove the bolt securing the harness bracket.
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Fig. 85: Identifying Harness Bracket Bolt

19. Remove the front and rear warm up three way catalytic converter (WU-TWC)
(see WARM UP THREE WAY CATALYTIC CONVERTER
20. Remove the water passage.
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Fig. 86: Identifying Water Passage

21. Remove the front and rear camshaft pulleys (A) and front and rear back covers
(B).
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Fig. 87: Identifying Front And Rear Camshaft Pulleys And Front And
Rear Back Covers
REMOVAL).
23. Remove the cylinder head bolts. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in
sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
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Fig. 88: Identifying Cylinder Head Cover Bolts In Sequence

24. Remove the cylinder heads.

CAMSHAFT REPLACEMENT
FRONT
system, then write down the customer's audio presets. Make sure the ignition
switch is OFF.
positive cable.
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3. Remove the battery.

5. Remove the upper radiator hose.
Fig. 89: Identifying Upper Radiator Hose

6. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve (see EGR VALVE
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REPLACEMENT ).
8. Remove the rocker arm assembly (see CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION
FOR WARPAGE).
9. Remove the front camshaft pulley.
10. Remove the thrust cover (A), then remove the front camshaft (B).
Fig. 90: Identifying Thrust Cover And Front Camshaft

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11. Install the front camshaft in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C). Apply new engine oil to the journals and camshaft lobes.
12. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt, then
install the front camshaft pulley (see step 11 ).
13. Install the rocker arm assembly, then tighten the mounting bolts (see step 8 .
15. Adjust the valve clearance (see VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT).
16. Fill the radiator with engine coolant and bleed the air out (see step 8 in
COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
the customer's audio and XM radio channel presets. Set the clock.
REAR

2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box.
4. Remove the heater hose (A), and two nuts (B) securing the fuel line.
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Fig. 91: Identifying Heater Hose

FOR WARPAGE).
7. Remove the rear camshaft pulley.
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8. Remove the thrust cover (A), then remove the rear camshaft (B).
Fig. 92: Identifying Thrust Cover And Rear Camshaft

9. Install the rear camshaft in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C).
Apply new engine oil to the journals and camshaft lobes.
10. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt, then
install the rear camshaft pulley (see step 11 ).
11. Install the rocker arm assembly, then tighten the mounting bolts (see step 8 .
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14. Fill the radiator with engine coolant and bleed the air out (see step 8 in
CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION FOR WARPAGE
1. Remove the cylinder head (see CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL).

2. Inspect the camshaft (see CAMSHAFT INSPECTION).
3. Check the cylinder head for warpage. Measure along the edges, and three ways
across the center.
If warpage is less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in.), cylinder head resurfacing is
not required.
If warpage is between 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) and 0.2 mm (0.008 in.),
resurface the cylinder head.
Maximum resurface limit is 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) based on a height of 121
mm (4.76 in.).
Cylinder Head Height
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Fig. 93: Measuring Cylinder Head Height

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ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (see CYLINDER HEAD COVER

REMOVAL).
2. Loosen the adjusting screws (A).
Fig. 94: Loosening Adjusting Screws

3. Remove the bolts and the rocker arm assembly.
-1 Unscrew the rocker shaft mounting bolts two turns at a time, in a
crisscross pattern, to prevent damaging the valves or rocker arm assembly.
-2 When Identifying the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the rocker
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shaft mounting bolts. The bolts will keep the springs and the rocker arms
on the shafts.
Fig. 95: Identifying Rocker Arm Assembly In Sequence

ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
NOTE: Identify parts as they are removed so they can be

reinstalled in their original locations.
Inspect the rocker shafts and rocker arms (see
ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT INSPECTION).
Rocker arms must be installed in the same positions if
reused.
When removing or installing the rocker arm assembly,
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do not remove the rocker shaft mounting bolts. The

bolts will keep the springs and rocker arms on the
shaft.
Bundle the intake rocker arms with rubber bands to
keep them together as a set.
Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry
them and apply new engine oil to any contact points.
When replacing the intake rocker arm assembly,
remove the fastening hardware from the new intake
rocker arm assembly.
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Fig. 96: Disassembly And Reassembly Of Rocker Arm And Shaft

ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT INSPECTION

FOR WARPAGE), then disassemble the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER
ARM AND SHAFT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY).
2. Measure the diameter of the shaft at the first rocker location.
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Fig. 97: Measuring Shaft Diameter

3. Zero the gauge (A) to the shaft diameter.
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Fig. 98: Identifying Shaft Diameter Is At Zero Gauge

4. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm, and check it for an out-of-round
condition.
Rocker Arm-to-Shaft Clearance

Standard (New):
Intake: 0.026-0.067 mm (0.0010-0.0026 in.)

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Standard (New):
Exhaust: 0.026-0.077 mm (0.0010-0.0030 in.)

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Fig. 99: Measuring Inside Diameter Of Rocker Arm

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5. Repeat for all rockers and both shafts. If the clearance is over the limit, replace
the rocker shaft and all over-tolerance rocker arms. If any intake rocker arm
needs replacement, replace all three rocker arms in that set (primary, mid, and
secondary).
VTEC Rocker Arms
6. Inspect the rocker arm synchronizing pistons (A).

Slide them into the rocker arms. If they do not move smoothly, replace the
rocker arm set.
NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the pistons when

reassembling.
When reassembling the primary rocker arm (B),
carefully apply air pressure to the oil passage of the
rocker arm.
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Fig. 100: Inspecting Rocker Arm Synchronizing Pistons

7. Install the rocker arm assembly (see CAMSHAFT, ROCKER ARM,

CAMSHAFT SEAL, AND PULLEY INSTALLATION).
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION

2. Remove the rocker arms (see CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION FOR
WARPAGE).
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3. Put the rocker shafts on the cylinder head, then tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the threads and flange of the
exhaust rocker shaft mounting bolts.
Specified torque
8 x 1.25 mm: 24 N.m (2.4 kgf.m, 17 lbf.ft)
Fig. 101: Tightening Cylinder Head In Sequence

4. Seat the camshaft by pushing it toward the rear of the cylinder head.
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5. Zero the dial indicator against the end of the camshaft. Push the camshaft back
and forth and read the end play. If the end play is beyond the service limit,
replace the thrust cover and recheck.
If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft.

Camshaft End Play

Fig. 102: Checking Camshaft Endplay

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6. Remove the camshaft thrust cover (A), then pull out the camshaft (B).
Fig. 103: Identifying Camshaft Thrust Cover

7. Wipe the camshaft clean, then inspect the lift ramps. Replace the camshaft if
any lobes are pitted, scored, or excessively worn.
8. Measure the diameter of each camshaft journal.
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Fig. 104: Measuring Camshaft Journal Diameter

9. Zero the gauge to the journal diameter.
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Fig. 105: Inspecting Camshaft Journal Diameter With Gauge

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10. Clean the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head. Measure the inside
diameter of each camshaft bearing surface, and check for an out-of-round
condition.
If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is within limits, go to step 12.
If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the

camshaft has been replaced, replace the cylinder head.
camshaft has not been replaced, go to step 11.
Camshaft-to-Holder Oil Clearance
Fig. 106: Measuring Inside Diameter Of Camshaft Bearing Surface

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11. Check total runout with the camshaft supported on V-blocks.

If the total runout of the camshaft is within the service limit, replace the
cylinder head.
If the total runout is beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft and
recheck the oil clearance. If the oil clearance is still out of tolerance,
replace the cylinder head.
Camshaft Total Runout

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Fig. 107: Checking Total Runout With Camshaft Supported On V-Blocks

12. Measure cam lobe height.
CAM LOBE HEIGHT STANDARD (NEW)
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INTAKE EXHAUST
PRI 35.041 mm (1.3796 in.)
MID 36.445 mm (1.4348 in.) 36.326 mm (1.4302 in.)
SEC 35.284 mm (1.3891 in.)
PRI: Primary MID: Mid SEC: Secondary
IN: Intake EX: Exhaust T/B: Timing belt
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Fig. 108: Identifying Intake And Exhaust Cam Lobe

VALVE, SPRING, AND VALVE SEAL REMOVAL
Valve spring compressor attachment
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07757-PJ1010A
Identify the valves and valve springs as they are removed so that each item can be
reinstalled in its original position.

2. Using an appropriate-sized socket (A) and plastic mallet (B), lightly tap the
valve retainer to loosen the valve cotters.
Fig. 109: Tapping Valve Retainer Using Appropriate-Sized Socket And

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Plastic Mallet
3. Install the valve spring compressor. Compress the spring and remove the valve
cotters.
Fig. 110: Identifying Valve Spring Compressor

4. Remove the valve spring compressor, then remove the valve retainer, valve
spring, and valve.
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5. Install the valve guide seal remover (A).
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Fig. 111: Identifying Valve Guide Seal Remover

6. Remove the valve seal.
Fig. 112: Identifying Valve Seal

VALVE INSPECTION
1. Remove the valves (see VALVE, SPRING, AND VALVE SEAL

REMOVAL).
2. Measure the valve in these areas.
Intake Valve Dimensions

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A Standard (New): 34.90-35.10 mm (1.374-1.382 in.)

B Standard (New): 115.70-116.30 mm (4.555-4.579 in.)
C Standard (New): 5.485-5.495 mm (0.2159-0.2163 in.)
C Service Limit: 5.455 mm (0.2148 in.)
Exhaust Valve Dimensions
A Standard (New): 29.90-30.10 mm (1.177-1.185 in.)

B Standard (New): 113.90-114.50 mm (4.484-4.508 in.)
C Standard (New): 5.450-5.460 mm (0.2146-0.2150 in.)
Fig. 113: Measuring Intake And Exhaust Valve Dimensions

VALVE STEM-TO-GUIDE CLEARANCE INSPECTION

REMOVAL).
2. Slide the valve out of its guide about 10 mm (0.39 in.), then measure the guide-
to-stem clearance with a dial indicator while rocking the stem in the direction
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of normal thrust (wobble method).

If the measurement exceeds the service limit, recheck it using a new valve.
If the measurement is now within the service limit, reassemble using a

new valve.
If the measurement with a new valve still exceeds the service limit, go to
step 3.
Intake Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance

Exhaust Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance
Standard (New): 0.11 -0.16 mm (0.004-0.006 in.)

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Fig. 114: Measuring Guide-To-Stem Clearance With Dial Indicator

3. Subtract the O.D. of the valve stem, measured with a micrometer, from the I.D.
of the valve guide, measured with an inside micrometer or ball gauge.
Take the measurements in three places along the valve stem and three places
inside the valve guide.
The difference between the largest guide measurement and the smallest stem
measurement should not exceed the service limit.
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VALVE GUIDE REPLACEMENT
Valve guide driver, 5.5 mm 07742-0010100

Valve guide reamer, 5.5 mm 07HAH-PJ7A100
1. Inspect valve stem-to-guide clearance (see VALVE INSPECTION).

2. As illustrated in Fig. 115, use a commercially available air-impact valve guide
driver (A) modified to fit the diameter of the valve guides. In most cases, the
same procedure can be done using the special tool.
Fig. 115: Identifying Air-Impact Valve Guide Driver

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3. Select the proper replacement guides, and chill them in the freezer section of a
refrigerator for about an hour.
4. Use a hot plate or oven to evenly heat the cylinder head to 300F (150C).
Monitor the temperature with a cooking thermometer. Do not get the head
hotter than 300 F (150 C); excessive heat may loosen the valve seats.
Fig. 116: Heating Cylinder Head

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5. Working from the camshaft side, use the driver and an air hammer to drive the
guide about 2 mm (0.1 in.) towards the combustion chamber. This will knock
off some of the carbon and make removal easier. Hold the air hammer directly
in line with the valve guide to prevent damaging the driver. Wear safety
goggles or a face shield.
6. Turn the head over, and drive the guide out toward the camshaft side of the
head.
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Fig. 117: Identifying Valve Guide

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7. If a valve guide still won't move, drill it out with a 8 mm (5/16 in.) bit, then try
again.
NOTE: Drill guides only in extreme cases; you could damage

the cylinder head if the guide breaks.
8. Remove the new guide(s) from the freezer, one at a time, as you need them.
9. Apply a thin coat of clean engine oil to the outside of the new valve guide.
Install the guide from the camshaft side of the head; use the special tool to
drive the guide to the specified installed height (A) of the guide (B). If you
have all 12 guides to do, you may have to reheat the head.
Valve Guide Installed Height
Intake: 21.20-22.20 mm (0.835-0.874 in.)
Exhaust: 20.63-21.63 mm (0.812-0.852 in.)
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Fig. 118: Identifying Valve Guide Installed Height

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10. Coat both the reamer and the valve guide with cutting oil.
11. Rotate the reamer clockwise the full length of the valve guide bore.
Fig. 119: Rotating Reamer Clockwise Full Length Of Valve Guide Bore
12. Continue to rotate the reamer clockwise while removing it from the bore.
13. Thoroughly wash the guide in detergent and water to remove any cutting
residue.
14. Check the clearance with a valve (see VALVE INSPECTION). Verify that a
valve slides in the intake and exhaust valve guides without exerting pressure.
VALVE SEAT RECONDITIONING
1. Inspect valve stem-to-guide clearance (see VALVE INSPECTION). If the

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valve guides are worn, replace them (see VALVE GUIDE

REPLACEMENT) before cutting the valve seats.
2. Renew the valve seats in the cylinder head using a valve seat cutter.
Fig. 120: Renewing Valve Seats In Cylinder Head

3. Carefully cut a 45 seat, removing only enough material to ensure a smooth

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and concentric seat.

4. Bevel the upper edge of the seat with the 30 cutter and the lower edge of the
seat with the 67.5 cutter (intake seat) or the 60 cutter (exhaust seat). Check
the width of the seat and adjust accordingly.
Fig. 121: Identifying Angle Of Intake And Exhaust Seat

5. Make one more very light pass with the 45 cutter to remove any possible burrs
caused by the other cutters.
Valve Seat Width

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6. After resurfacing the seat, inspect it for even valve seating: Apply Prussian
Blue compound (A) to the valve face. Insert the valve in its original location in
the head, then lift it and snap it closed against the seat several times.
Fig. 122: Applying Prussian Blue Compound To Valve Face

7. The actual valve seating surface (B), as shown in Fig. 122 by the blue
compound, should be centered on the seat.
If it is too high (closer to the valve stem), you must make a second cut
with the 67.5 cutter (intake seat) or the 60 cutter (exhaust seat) to move
it down, then one more cut with the 45 cutter to restore seat width.
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If it is too low (closer to the valve edge), you must make a second cut with
the 30 cutter to move it up, then one more cut with the 45 cutter to
restore seat width.
NOTE: The final cut should always be made with the 45 cutter.
8. Insert the intake and exhaust valves in the head, and measure the valve stem
installed height (A).
Intake Valve Stem Installed Height
Standard (New): 46.75-47.55 mm (1.841 -1.872 in.)

Exhaust Valve Stem Installed Height

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Fig. 123: Identifying Valve Stem Installed Height

9. If the valve stem installed height is over the service limit, replace the valve and
recheck. If it is still over the service limit, replace the cylinder head; the valve
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seat in the head is too deep.

VALVE, SPRING, AND VALVE SEAL INSTALLATION
Stem seal driver 07PAD-0010000

Valve spring compressor attachment 07757-PJ1010A
1. Coat the valve stems with new engine oil. Install the valves in the valve guides.
2. Check that the valves move up and down smoothly.
3. Install the spring seats on the cylinder head.
4. Install the new valve seals (A) using the valve guide seal installer (B).
NOTE: Exhaust valve seals (C) have a black spring (D) and
intake valve seals (E) have a white spring (F). They are
not interchangeable.
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Fig. 124: Identifying Valve Seals

5. Install the valve spring and valve retainer. Place the end of the valve spring
with closely wound coils toward the cylinder head.
6. Install the valve spring compressor. Compress the spring and install the valve
cotters.
Fig. 125: Identifying Valve Spring Compressor

7. Remove the valve spring compressor.
8. Lightly tap the end of each valve stem two or three times with a plastic mallet
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(A) to ensure proper seating of the valve and valve cotters. Tap the valve stem
only along its axis so you do not bend the stem.
Fig. 126: Tapping End Of Each Valve Stem With Plastic Mallet
CAMSHAFT, ROCKER ARM, CAMSHAFT SEAL, AND PULLEY
INSTALLATION
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1. Apply a light coat of oil around the camshaft oil seal.

2. Gently tap the new camshaft oil seal (A) into the cylinder head.
-1 Tap the camshaft oil seal in squarely.
-2 Install the oil seal about 0.5-1.5 mm (0.02-0.06 in.) below the surface of
the cylinder head.
Fig. 127: Identifying Camshaft (Front)

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Fig. 128: Identifying Camshaft (Rear)

3. Insert the camshaft (B) into the cylinder head, then install the camshaft thrust
cover (C). Always use a new O-ring (D).
4. Check that the oil seal lips are not distorted.
5. Install the solid dowel pins (E) and the hollow dowel pins (F).
6. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT
DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY).
7. Loosen the valve adjusting screws.
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8. Set the rocker arm assembly in place, and loosely install the bolts. Make sure
that the rocker arms are properly positioned on the valve stems.
9. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in the sequence shown in Fig. 129 to
ensure that the rockers do not bind on the valves.
NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the threads and flange of the
exhaust rocker shaft mounting bolts.
Specified torque
8 x 1.25 mm: 24 N.m (2.4 kgf.m, 17 lbf.ft)
Fig. 129: Tightening Rocker Arm Bolts In Sequence

10. Install the injector base (A). Always use a new gasket (B).
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Fig. 130: Identifying Injector Base And Gasket

11. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt (A).
Install the back cover (B), then install the camshaft pulley (C).
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Fig. 131: Identifying Camshaft Pulley And Back Cover

CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION
1. Clean the cylinder head and block surface.

2. Clean and install the oil control orifices (A) with new O-rings (B).
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Fig. 132: Cleaning And Identifying Oil Control Orifices With O-Rings
3. Install the dowel pins (C) and new cylinder head gaskets (D).
covers.
5. Set the timing belt drive pulley to top dead center (TDC) by aligning the TDC
mark (A) on the tooth of the timing belt drive pulley with the pointer (B) on the
oil pump.
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Fig. 133: Aligning TDC Mark On Tooth Of Timing Belt Drive Pulley With
Pointer On Oil Pump
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Fig. 134: Aligning TDC Marks On Front Camshaft Pulleys With Pointers
On Back Covers (Front)
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Fig. 135: Aligning TDC Marks On Front Camshaft Pulleys With Pointers
On Back Covers (Rear)
7. Put the cylinder head onto the engine block. If the head bolt is dodecagon type,
go to step 8. Or if the head bolt is hexagon type, go to step 13.
Dodecagon Bolt Type
8. Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt at point A and point B.
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Fig. 136: Measuring Diameter Of Each Cylinder Head Bolt

9. If either diameter is less than 10.6 mm (0.42 in.), replace the cylinder head
bolt.
10. Apply engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads of all cylinder head
bolts.
11. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 39 N.m (4.0 kgf.m, 29 lbf.ft).
Use a beam-type torque wrench. When using a preset-type torque wrench, be
sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while
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you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it from the first step.
Fig. 137: Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts In Sequence

12. After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90 per step). If you
are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90, then go to step
15.
NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it

beyond the specified angle, and go back to step 8 of the
procedure. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.
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Fig. 138: Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts An Additional 90

Hexagon Bolt Type
13. Apply new engine oil to the threads and flanges of the cylinder head bolts.
14. Tighten the cylinder head bolts sequentially in three steps.
NOTE: Perform each step twice.
1st Step Torque: 39 N.m (4.0 kgf.m, 29 lbf.ft)

2nd Step Torque: 69 N.m (7.0 kgf.m, 51 lbf.ft)
3rd Step Torque: 98.1 N.m (10.0 kgf.m, 72.3 lbf.ft)

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sure to tighten slowly and not to overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while
you are torquing it, loosen the bolt, and retighten it from the first step, then go
to step 15.
Fig. 139: Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts In Three Steps

15. Install the front and rear warm up three way catalytic converter (WU-TWC)
(see WARM UP THREE WAY CATALYTIC CONVERTER
16. Install the water passage (A). Always use a new O-ring (B) and new gaskets
(C).
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Fig. 140: Identifying Water Passage

17. Tighten the bolt securing the harness bracket.
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Fig. 141: Tightening Harness Bracket Bolt

18. Set the new O-ring on the injectors, then install the fuel rails.
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Fig. 142: Identifying Fuel Rails

19. Install the ground cable (A).
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20. Tighten the bolt (B) securing the harness bracket.

21. Install the heater hose (A) and water bypass hoses (B).
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Fig. 144: Identifying Heater Hose And Water Bypass Hoses

22. Install the upper radiator hose (A), and lower radiator hose (B).
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23. Install the power steering (P/S) pump (A) and P/S hose bracket (B).
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Fig. 146: Identifying P/S Pump And P/S Hose Bracket


INSTALLATION).
27. Install the intake manifold (see INSTALLATION ).
28. 28. Install the alternator (see ALTERNATOR REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
29. Install the drive belt.
30. Install the fuel line (see FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
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INSTALLATION ).
31. Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper. Assemble them
and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
32. After installation, check that all tubes, hoses, and connectors are installed
correctly.
33. Inspect for fuel leaks. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) (do not operate the
starter) so the fuel pump runs for about 2 seconds and pressurizes the fuel line.
Repeat this operation two or three times, then check for fuel leakage at any
point in the fuel line.
with the heater valve open (see step 8 in COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
35. Perform the power window control unit reset procedure, refer to RESETTING
36. Inspect the idle speed (see IDLE SPEED INSPECTION ).
37. Inspect the ignition timing (see IGNITION TIMING INSPECTION ).
39. Set the clock.
CAMSHAFT OIL SEAL INSTALLATION - IN CAR
Camshaft oil seal driver 07PAF-0030100

2. Remove the camshaft pulley and back cover (see step 21 ).
3. Remove the camshaft oil seal.
4. Dry the camshaft oil seal housing.
5. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the lip of the camshaft oil seal.
6. Using the special tool (A), washer (B), and a 12 x 75 x 1.25 mm bolt (C), press
in the camshaft oil seal (D) about 0.5-1.5 mm (0.02-0.06 in.) below the surface
of the cylinder head.
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Fig. 147: Pressing Camshaft Oil Seal Using Special Tool

7. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt.
Install the back cover, then install the camshaft pulley (see step 11 ).
SEALING BOLT INSTALLATION
NOTE: When installing the sealing bolt (A), always use new washer
(B).
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Fig. 148: Identifying Sealing Bolt And Washer (Front)

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Fig. 149: Identifying Sealing Bolt And Washer (Rear)

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2003-07 ENGINE Cylinder Head - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Cylinder Head - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2006 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Identifying Cylinder Head Component (1 Of 3)

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ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/the
powertrain control module (PCM) will continue to stop the injectors from
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functioning. Select ECM/PCM reset using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS)
(see HDS CLEAR COMMAND ).
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on HOW TO
USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM) ).
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL
INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
5. Remove the four ignition coils (see IGNITION COIL
6. Remove the four spark plugs.
7. Attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole.
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Fig. 5: Attaching Compression Gauge To Spark Plug Hole

8. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and
measure the compression.
Compression Pressure:
2
Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm ,135 psi)
9. Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders.
Maximum Variation:
2
Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm ,28 psi)
10. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then
remeasure the compression.
Damaged or worn valves and seats
Damaged cylinder head gasket
Damaged or worn piston rings
Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore
11. Select ECM/PCM reset (see ECM/PCM RESET ) to cancel the ALL
INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.
VTEC ROCKER ARM TEST
Air pressure regulator 07AAJ-PNAA100

VTEC air adapter 07ZAJ-PNAA100
VTEC air stopper 07ZAJ-PNAA200
Air joint adapter 07ZAJ-PNAA300
1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn the ignition switch OFF.
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REMOVAL ).
3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC) (see step 1 ).
4. Verify that the intake primary rocker arm (A) moves independently of the
intake secondary rocker arm (B).
If the intake primary rocker arm does not move, remove the primary and
secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then check that the pistons in the
secondary and primary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm
needs replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an
assembly, and test.
If the intake primary rocker arm moves freely, go to step 4.
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Fig. 6: Checking Intake Primary Rocker Arm Moves Independently

Of Intake Secondary Rocker Arm
5. Repeat step 3 on the remaining intake primary rocker arms with each piston at
TDC. When all the primary rocker arms pass the test, go to step 5.
6. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over
2
400 kPa (4 kgf/cm , 57 psi).
7. Inspect the valve clearance (see VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT ).
8. Remove the sealing bolt (A) from the relief hole, and install the VTEC air
stopper (B).
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Fig. 7: Installing VTEC Air Stopper

9. Remove the No. 2 and No. 3 camshaft holder bolts, and install the VTEC air
adapters (C) finger-tight.
10. Connect the air joint adapter (D) and air pressure regulator (E).
11. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure.
Specified air pressure:

2
290 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm ,42 psi)
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NOTE: If the synchronizing piston does not move after

applying air pressure, move the primary or secondary
rocker arm up and down manually by rotating the
crankshaft clockwise.
12. With the specified air pressure applied, move the intake primary rocker arm
(A) for the No. 1 cylinder. The primary rocker arm and secondary rocker arm
(B) should move together.
If the intake secondary rocker arm does not move, remove the primary and
secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the pistons in the
primary and secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs
replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and
test.
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Fig. 8: Moving Intake Primary Rocker Arm


14. Tighten the camshaft holder mounting bolts to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft).
15. Tighten the sealing bolt to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft).
16. Install the cylinder head cover (see CYLINDER HEAD COVER
INSTALLATION ).
VTC ACTUATOR INSPECTION
1. Remove the cam chain (see Cam Chain Removal ).
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2. Loosen the rocker arm adjusting screws (see step 2 ).

3. Remove the camshaft holder (see step 3 ).
4. Remove the intake camshaft.
5. Check that the variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator is locked by
turning the VTC actuator clockwise and counterclockwise. If the VTC actuator
is not locked, replace the VTC actuator.
6. Seal the advance holes (A) and retard holes (B) in the No. 1 camshaft journal
with tape.
Fig. 9: Sealing Advance Holes And Retard Holes

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7. Punch a hole in the tape over one of the advance holes.
8. Apply air to the advance hole to release the lock.
Fig. 10: Applying Air To Advance Hole To Release Lock

9. Check that the VTC actuator moves smoothly. If the VTC actuator does not
move smoothly, replace the VTC actuator.
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Fig. 11: Checking That VTC Actuator Moves Smoothly

10. Make sure the punch marks on the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft
sprocket are facing up, then set the camshafts in the rocker shaft holder (see
step 6 ).
11. Set the camshaft holders and chain guide B in place (see step 7 ).
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12. Tighten the camshaft holder bolts to the specified torque (see step 8 ).
13. Check that the variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator is locked by
turning the VTC actuator counterclockwise. If not locked, turn the VTC
actuator clockwise until it stops, then recheck it. If it is still not locked, replace
the VTC actuator.
14. Install the cam chain (see CAM CHAIN INSTALLATION ).
15. Adjust the valve clearance (see VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT ).
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
Tappet adjust wrench set 07MAA-PR70100
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature
is less than 100 F (38 C).

REMOVAL ).
2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The punch mark (A) on the
variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the
exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on
the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket.
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Fig. 12: Identifying Punch Mark On Variable Valve Timing Control

(VTC) Actuator
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
Valve Clearance
Intake: 0.21---0.25 mm (0.008---0.010 in.)

Exhaust: 0.28---0.32 mm (0.011---0.013 in.)
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Fig. 13: Identifying Adjusting Screw Location Exhaust And Intake

4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the
valve stem, and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag.
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Fig. 14: Inserting Feeler Gauge Between Adjusting Screw And End Of
Valve Stem
5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut with the special tools,
and turn the adjusting screw until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
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Fig. 15: Loosening Locknut

6. Tighten the locknut.
Specified torque
Intake: 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft)
Apply engine oil to the nut threads.

Exhaust: 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m, 10 lbf.ft)
Apply engine oil to the nut threads.
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7. Recheck the valve clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.

8. Rotate the crankshaft 180 clockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90).
Fig. 16: Rotating Crankshaft 180 Clockwise (Camshaft Pulley Turns 90)
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Fig. 17: Rotating Crankshaft 180 Clockwise (Camshaft Pulley Turns 90)
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Fig. 18: Rotating Crankshaft

INSTALLATION ).
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Holder handle 07JAB-001020A
Holder attachment, 50 mm 07NAB-001040A
Socket, 19 mm 07JAA-001020A or a commercially available 19 mm socket
REMOVAL
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1. Remove the front tires/wheels.

4. Hold the pulley with holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B).
Fig. 19: Holding Pulley With Holder Handle And Holder Attachment
5. Remove the bolt with a 19 mm socket (C) and breaker bar.

INSTALLATION
1. Clean the crankshaft pulley (A), crankshaft (B), bolt (C), and washer (D).
Lubricate new engine oil as shown in Fig. 20.
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Fig. 20: Cleaning Crankshaft Pulley, Crankshaft, Bolt, And Washer

2. Install the crankshaft pulley, and hold the pulley with holder handle (A) and
holder attachment (B).
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Fig. 21: Installing Crankshaft Pulley

3. Tighten the bolt to 49 N.m (5.0 kgf.m, 36 lbf.ft) with a torque wrench and 19
mm socket (C). Do not use an impact wrench.
4. Mark the bolt head (A) and the crankshaft pulley (B) as shown, then tighten the
bolt an additional 90 (The mark on the bolt head line up with the mark on the
crankshaft pulley).
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Fig. 22: Marking The Bolt Head And The Crankshaft Pulley

INSTALLATION ).
7. Install the front tires/wheels.
CAM CHAIN REMOVAL
NOTE: Keep the cam chain away from magnetic fields.
1. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark (A) lines up with
the pointer (B).
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Fig. 23: Turning Crankshaft Pulley


REMOVAL ).
6. Check that the No. 1 piston TDC marks (A) on the variable valve timing
control (VTC) actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket are aligned.
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Fig. 24: Checking No. 1 Piston TDC Marks

7. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see step 4 ).

8. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector (A) and variable
valve timing control (VTC) oil control solenoid valve connector (B).
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Fig. 25: Disconnecting Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Connector

9. Remove the VTC oil control solenoid valve (see VTC OIL CONTROL
SOLENOID VALVE REMOVAL/TEST/INSTALLATION ).
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11. Remove the ground cable (A), and remove the upper bracket (B).
Fig. 26: Removing Ground Cable

12. Remove the side engine mount bracket.
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Fig. 27: Removing Side Engine Mount Bracket

13. Remove the chain case.
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Fig. 28: Removing Chain Case

14. Loosely install the crankshaft pulley.
15. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the auto-tensioner.
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Fig. 29: Turning Crankshaft

16. Align the holes on the lock (A) and the auto-tensioner (B), then insert a 1.2 mm
(0.05 in.) diameter pin or lock pin (P/N 14511-PNA-003) (C) into the holes.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to secure the pin.
Fig. 30: Aligning Holes On Lock And Auto-tensioner

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Fig. 31: Removing Auto-Tensioner

18. Remove the cam chain guide B.
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Fig. 32: Removing CAM Chain Guide

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19. Remove the cam chain guide A and tensioner arm (B).
Fig. 33: Removing CAM Chain Guide And Tensioner Arm

20. Remove the cam chain.
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CAM CHAIN INSTALLATION
NOTE: Keep the cam chain away from magnetic fields.

Before this procedure, check that the variable valve
timing control (VTC) actuator is locked by turning the
VTC actuator counterclockwise. If not locked, turn the
VTC actuator clockwise until it stops, then recheck it. If
it is still not locked, replace the VTC actuator.
1. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the
crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B) on the engine block.
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Fig. 34: Identifying Marks

2. Set the camshafts to TDC. The punch mark (A) on the variable valve timing
control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft
sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator
and exhaust camshaft sprocket.
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Fig. 35: Identifying Punch Mark

3. Install the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored piece (A)
aligned with the mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket.
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Fig. 36: Installing CAM Chain On Crankshaft Sprocket

4. Install the cam chain on the VTC actuator and the exhaust camshaft sprocket
with the punch marks (A) aligned with the center of the two colored pieces (B).
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Fig. 37: Installing CAM Chain On VTC Actuator And Exhaust Camshaft
Sprocket
5. Install the cam chain guide A and tensioner arm (B).
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Fig. 38: Installing CAM Chain Guide And Tensioner Arm

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Fig. 39: Installing Auto-Tensioner

7. Install the cam chain guide B.
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Fig. 40: Installing CAM Chain Guide B

8. Remove the pin or lock pin (P/N 14511-PNA-003) from the auto-tensioner.
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Fig. 41: Removing Pin Or Lock Pin (P/N 14511-Pna-003) From Auto-
Tensioner
9. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is damaged, replace the
chain case oil seal (see CHAIN CASE OIL SEAL INSTALLATION ).
10. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain case mating surfaces, bolts,
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and bolt holes.

11. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces.
12. Install the crankshaft position (CKP) pulse plate (A) on the crankshaft (B).
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Fig. 42: Identifying CKP Pulse Plate

13. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004,08718-0001, 08718-0002,08718-0003, or

08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: Do not install components if too much time has passed

after applying the liquid gasket (for P/N 08718-0002, no
more than 4 minutes, for all others, no more than 5
minutes). Instead, remove the old residue and reapply
the liquid gasket.
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Fig. 43: Applying Liquid Gasket

14. Apply liquid gasket to the engine block upper surface contact areas (A) on the
chain case and lower block upper surface contact areas (B) on the chain case.
15. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0001, 08718-0002, or 08718-0009, evenly to
the oil pan mating surface of the chain case.
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the liquid gasket.
Fig. 44: Applying Liquid Gasket To Engine Block Upper Surface Contact
Areas
16. Install the new O-ring (A) on the chain case. Set the edge of the chain case (B)
to the edge of the oil pan (C), then install the chain case on the engine block
(D). Wipe off all of the excess liquid gasket on the oil pan and chain case
mating area.
NOTE: When installing the chain case, do not slide the

bottom surface on the oil pan mounting surface.
Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine
with oil.
Do not run the engine within 3 hours after installing
the chain case.
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Fig. 45: Installing CAM Chain

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17. Install the side engine mount bracket.
Fig. 46: Installing Side Engine Mount Bracket

18. Install the upper bracket (A), then tighten the bolt in the numbered sequence
shown in Fig. 47.
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Fig. 47: Installing Upper Bracket


20. Install the variable valve timing control (VTC) oil control solenoid valve (see
VTC OIL CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
REMOVAL/TEST/INSTALLATION ).
21. Connect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector (A) and VTC oil
control solenoid valve connector (B).
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Fig. 48: Connecting Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Connector

22. Install the crankshaft pulley (see INSTALLATION ).

INSTALLATION ).
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INSTALLATION ).
26. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP learn procedure (see CKP PATTERN
CLEAR/CKP PATTERN LEARN ).
AUTO-TENSIONER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Remove the chain case cover.
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Fig. 49: Removing Chain Case Cover

2. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the auto-tensioner.

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Fig. 50: Turning Crankshaft

3. Align the holes on the lock (A) and the auto-tensioner (B), then insert a 1.2 mm
(0.05 in.) diameter pin or lock pin (P/N 14511-PNA-003) (C) into the holes.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to secure the pin.
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Fig. 51: Aligning Holes On Lock

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Fig. 52: Removing Auto-Tensioner

INSTALLATION
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Fig. 53: Installing Auto-Tensioner

2. Remove the pin or lock pin (P/N 14511-PNA-003) from the auto-tensioner.
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Fig. 54: Removing Pin Or Lock Pin

3. Remove old liquid gasket from the chain case cover mating surfaces, bolts, and
bolt holes.
4. Clean and dry the chain case cover mating surfaces.
or 08718-0009, evenly to the chain case mating surface of the chain case cover.

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the liquid gasket.

6. Install the chain case cover.
NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with

oil.
Do not run the engine within 3 hours after installing the
chain case cover.
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Fig. 56: Installing Chain Case Cover

CHAIN CASE OIL SEAL INSTALLATION
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Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
1. Use the special tools to drive a new oil seal squarely into the chain case to the
specified installed height.
Fig. 57: Driving Oil Seal

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2. Measure the distance between the chain case surface (A) and oil seal (B).
Fig. 58: Measuring Distance Between Chain Case Surface And Oil Seal
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CAM CHAIN INSPECTION

REMOVAL ).
5. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION ).
6. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector and variable valve
timing control (VTC) oil control solenoid valve connector (see step 8 ).
9. Remove the ground cable, and remove the upper bracket (see step 11 ).
10. Remove the side engine mount bracket (see step 12 ).
11. Remove the chain case (see step 13 ).
12. Measure the tensioner rod length between the tensioner body and bottom of the
flat surface section on the tensioner rod. If the length is over the tolerance,
replace the cam chain and oil pump chain.
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Fig. 59: Measuring Tensioner Rod Length Between Tensioner Body And
Bottom Of Flat Surface
14. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain case mating surfaces, bolt,
and bolt holes.
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or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the chain case
(see step 13 ).
17. Apply liquid gasket to the engine block upper surface contact areas on the
chain case and lower block upper surface contact areas on the chain case (see
step 14 ).
18. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0002,08718-0003,
or 08718-0009, evenly to the oil pan mating surface of the chain case (see step
15 ).

the liquid gasket.
19. Install the new O-ring on the chain case. Set the edge of the chain case to the
edge of the oil pan, then install the chain case on the engine block (see step
16 ). Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the oil pan and chain case mating
area.

with oil.
installing the chain case.
20. Install the side engine mount bracket (see step 17 ).

21. Install the upper bracket and the ground cable (see step 18 ).
22. Install the VTC oil control solenoid valve (see VTC OIL CONTROL
23. Connect the CKP sensor connector and VTC oil control solenoid valve
connector (see step 21 ).
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INSTALLATION ).
28. Install the front wheels.
CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL ).
5. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION ).
6. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector and variable valve
timing control (VTC) oil control solenoid valve connector (see step 8 ).
9. Remove the ground cable, and remove the upper bracket (see step 11 ).
10. Remove the side engine mount bracket (see step 12 ).
11. Remove the chain case (see step 13 ).
12. Remove the CKP pulse plate.
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Fig. 60: Removing CKP Pulse Plate

13. Install the CKP pulse plate.

15. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain case mating surfaces, bolts,
and bolt holes.
or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the chain case
(see step 13 ).

the liquid gasket.
18. Apply liquid gasket to the engine block upper surface contact areas on the
chain case and lower block upper surface contact areas on the chain case (see
step 14 ).
19. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004,08718-0001, 08718-0002, 08718-0003,
or 08718-0009, evenly to the oil pan mating surface of the chain case (see step
15 ).

the liquid gasket.
20. Install the new O-ring on the chain case. Set the edge of the chain case to the
edge of the oil pan, then install the chain case on the engine block (see step
16 ). Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the oil pan and chain case mating
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area.

with oil.
Do not run the engine within 3 hours after installing
the chain case.
21. Install the side engine mount bracket (see step 17 ).

22. Install the upper bracket and the ground cable (see step 18 ).
23. Install the VTC oil control solenoid valve (see VTC OIL CONTROL
24. Connect the CKP sensor connector and VTC oil control solenoid valve
connector (see step 21 ).
INSTALLATION ).
INSTALLATION ).
29. Install the front tires/wheels.
CYLINDER HEAD COVER REMOVAL
1. Remove the intake manifold cover.
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Fig. 61: Removing Intake Manifold Cover

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2. Remove the four ignition coils (see IGNITION COIL

3. Remove the two bolts (A) securing the vacuum line.
Fig. 62: Removing Bolts Securing Vacuum Line

4. Remove the bolt (B) securing the power steering hose bracket.
5. Remove the dipstick (C) and breather hose (D).
6. Remove the cylinder head cover.
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Fig. 63: Removing Dipstick And Breather Hose & Cover

CYLINDER HEAD COVER INSTALLATION
1. Thoroughly clean the head cover gasket and the groove.

2. Install the head cover gasket (A) in the groove of the cylinder head cover (B).
Fig. 64: Installing Head Cover Gasket In Groove

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3. Check that the mating surfaces are clean and dry.
or 08718-0009, on the chain case and the No. 5 rocker shaft holder mating
areas.

the liquid gasket.
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5. Set the spark plug seals (A) on the spark plug tubes. Place the cylinder head
cover (B) on the cylinder head, then slide the cover slightly back and forth to
seat the head cover gasket.
Fig. 66: Setting Spark Plug Seal On Spark Plug Tubes

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6. Inspect the cover washers (C). Replace any washer that is damaged or
deteriorated.
7. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. In the final step tighten all bolts, in
sequence, to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft).
NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with

oil.
installing the head cover.
Fig. 67: Tightening Bolts

8. Install the dipstick (A) and breather hose (B).
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Fig. 68: Installing Dipstick And Breather Hose

9. Tighten the bolt (C) securing the power steering hose bracket.
10. Tighten the two bolts (D) securing the vacuum line.
11. Install the four ignition coils (see IGNITION COIL
12. Check that all tubes, hoses, and connectors are installed correctly.
13. Install the intake manifold cover.
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Fig. 69: Installing Intake Manifold Cover

CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
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To avoid damaging the wires and terminals, unplug the
wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector
portion.
To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the
engine coolant temperature drops below 100 F (38 C)
before loosening the cylinder head bolts.
Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection.
Also, be sure that they do not contact other wiring or

hoses, or interfere with other parts.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio unit (and navigation
code, if equipped), then write down the audio presets.
2. Relieve fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE RELIEVING ).
6. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector (A).
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Fig. 70: Disconnecting Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Connector

7. Remove the vacuum hose (B) and breather pipe (C), then remove the intake air
duct (D).
8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A), then disconnect the fuel feed hose
(see FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING REMOVAL ).
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Fig. 71: Removing Vacuum Hose And Breather Pipe

9. Remove the intake manifold:

2003-2005 models (see REMOVAL (2003-2005 MODELS) )
2006-07 models (see REMOVAL (2006-07 MODELS) )
10. Remove the exhaust manifold (see EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL

AND INSTALLATION ).
11. Remove the bolt (A) securing the connecting pipe.
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Fig. 72: Removing Bolt Securing Connecting Pipe

12. Remove the water bypass hose (B).
13. Remove the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister hose (A) and brake booster
vacuum hose (B).
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Fig. 73: Removing Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Hose

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14. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose (A) and ground cable
(B).
Fig. 74: Removing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Hose

15. Remove the upper radiator hose (A) and heater hoses (B).
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Fig. 75: Removing Upper Radiator Hoses And Heater Hoses

16. Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the
cylinder head.
Four injector connectors
Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor connector
Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A/B connectors
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve connector
Rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve) connector
Engine oil pressure (EOP) sensor connector
17. Remove the two bolts (A) securing the EVAP canister purge valve bracket and
remove the bolt (B) securing the harness bracket.
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Fig. 76: Removing Bolts Securing EVAP Canister Purge Valve Bracket

19. Remove the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL ).
20. Remove the cylinder head bolts. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in
sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
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Fig. 77: Removing Cylinder Head Bolts

21. Remove the cylinder head.

CMP PULSE PLATE A REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL ).
2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
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Fig. 78: Holding Camshaft With An Open-End Wrench

3. Remove the camshaft position (CMP) pulse plate A.
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Fig. 79: Removing Camshaft Position (CMP) Pulse Plate

4. Install the CMP pulse plate A in the reverse order of removal.

CMP PULSE PLATE B REPLACEMENT

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REMOVAL ).
2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.

3. Remove the camshaft position (CMP) pulse plate B.
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Fig. 81: Removing Camshaft Position (CMP) Pulse Plate

4. Install the CMP pulse plate B in the reverse order of removal.
VTC ACTUATOR, EXHAUST CAMSHAFT SPROCKET REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION
REMOVAL

2. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then loosen the variable valve
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timing control (VTC) actuator mounting bolt and exhaust camshaft sprocket
mounting bolt.

3. If the VTC actuator is reused, do the following steps.

1 Remove the intake camshaft, and seal the advance holes and retard holes
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in the No. 1 camshaft journal with tape (see step 6 ).

2 Punch a hole in the tape over one of the advance holes (see step 7 ).
3 Apply air to the advance hole to release the lock (see step 8 ).
4 Remove the tape from the No. 1 camshaft journal.
4. Remove the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket.

INSTALLATION
1. Install the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket.
NOTE: Installing the VTC actuator to unlock position.
2. Apply engine oil to the threads of the VTC actuator mounting bolt and exhaust
camshaft mounting bolt, then install them.
3. Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench, then tighten the bolts.
Specified torque
VTC actuator mounting bolt:
113 N.m (11.5 kgf.m, 83 lbf.ft)

Exhaust camshaft sprocket mounting bolt:
72 N.m (7.3 kgf.m, 53 lbf.ft)
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Fig. 83: Installing VTC Actuator To Unlock Position

4. Hold the camshaft, and turn the VTC actuator clockwise until you hear it click.
CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION FOR WARPAGE
1. Remove the cylinder head (see CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL ).

2. Inspect the camshaft (see CAMSHAFT INSPECTION ).
3. Check the cylinder head for warpage. Measure along the edges, and three ways
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across the center.

If warpage is less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) cylinder head resurfacing is
not required.
If warpage is between 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) and 0.2 mm (0.008 in.),
resurface the cylinder head.
Maximum resurface limit is 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) based on a height of 104
mm (4.09 in.).
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Fig. 84: Checking Cylinder Head For Warpage

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ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY REMOVAL

2. Loosen the rocker arm adjusting screws (A).
Fig. 85: Loosening Rocker Arm Adjusting Screws

3. Remove the camshaft holder bolts. To prevent damaging the camshafts,

unscrew the bolts two turns at a time, in a crisscross pattern.
NOTE: Bolt (1) is not on all engines.
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Fig. 86: Removing Camshaft Holder Bolts

4. Remove the cam chain guide B, camshaft holders, and camshafts.

5. Insert the bolts (A) into the rocker shaft holder, then remove the rocker arm
assembly (B).
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Fig. 87: Inserting Bolts Into Rocker Shaft Holder

ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
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NOTE: Identify parts as they are removed to ensure

reinstallation in original location.
Inspect the rocker arm shaft and rocker arms (see
ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT INSPECTION ).
The rocker arms must be installed in the same
positions if reused.
When removing or installing the rocker arm assembly,
do not remove the camshaft holder bolts. The bolts will
keep the holders and rocker arms on the shaft.
Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry
them, and apply lubricant to any contact points.
Bundle the intake rocker arms with rubber bands to
keep them together as a set.
When replacing the intake rocker arm assembly,
remove the fastening hardware from the new intake
rocker arm assembly.
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Fig. 88: Disassembling Rocker Arm And Shaft

ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT INSPECTION

REMOVAL ), then disassemble the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER
ARM AND SHAFT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY ).
2. Measure the diameter of the shaft at the first rocker location.
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Fig. 89: Measuring Diameter Of Shaft

3. Zero the gauge (A) to the shaft diameter.
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Fig. 90: Zero Gauge To Shaft Diameter

4. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm, and check it for an out-of-round
condition.
Rocker Arm-to-Shaft Clearance Standard (New):

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Intake: 0.025---0.052 mm (0.0010-0.0020 in.)

Exhaust: 0.018---0.056 mm (0.0007---0.0022 in.)
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Fig. 91: Measuring Inside Diameter Of Rocker Arm

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5. Repeat for all rocker arms and both shafts. If the clearance is over the limit,
replace the rocker shaft and all overtolerance rocker arms. If any VTEC rocker
arm needs replacement, replace the rocker arms (primary and secondary) as a
set.
6. Inspect the rocker arm pistons (A). Push each piston manually. If it does not
move smoothly, replace the rocker arm set.
NOTE: Apply oil to the pistons when reassembling.
Fig. 92: Identifying Rocker Arm Piston

7. Install the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY

INSTALLATION ).
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft during inspection.
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REMOVAL ).
2. Put the rocker shaft holders, camshaft and camshaft holders on the cylinder
head, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
NOTE: If the engine does not have bolt (21), skip it and
continue the torque sequence.
Specified torque
8 mm bolts: 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft)
6 mm bolts: 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft)
6 mm bolts: (21), (22), (23)
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Fig. 93: Tightening Bolts To Specified Torque

3. Seat the camshaft by pushing it away from the camshaft pulley end of the
cylinder head.
4. Zero the dial indicator against the end of the camshaft, then push the camshaft
back and forth and read the end play. If the end play is beyond the service
limit, replace the cylinder head and recheck. If it is still beyond the service
limit, replace the camshaft.
Camshaft End Play

Standard (New): 0.05---0.20 mm (0.002---0.008 in.)
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Fig. 94: Zero Dial Indicator Against End Of Camshaft

5. Unscrew the camshaft holder bolts two turns at a time, in a crisscross pattern.
Then remove the camshaft holders from the cylinder head.
6. Lift the camshafts out of the cylinder head, wipe them clean, then inspect the
lift ramps. Replace the camshaft if any lobes are pitted, scored, or excessively
worn.
7. Clean the camshaft journal surfaces in the cylinder head, then set the camshafts
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back in place. Place a plastigage strip across each journal.

8. Install the camshaft holders, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque as
shown in step 2.
9. Remove the camshaft holders. Measure the widest portion of plastigage on
each journal.
If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is within limits, go to step 11.

camshaft has been replaced, replace the cylinder head.
camshaft has not been replaced, go to step 10.
Camshaft-to-Holder Oil Clearance Standard (New):
No. 1 Journal: 0.030---0.069 mm (0.001---0.003 in.)

No. 2,3,4,5 Journals: 0.060---0.099 mm (0.002---0.004 in.)
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Fig. 95: Removing Camshaft Holders

10. Check the total runout with the camshaft supported on V-blocks.
If the total runout of the camshaft is within the service limit, replace the
cylinder head.
If the total runout is beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft and
recheck the camshaft-to-holder oil clearance. If the oil clearance is still
beyond the service limit, replace the cylinder head.
Camshaft Total Runout
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Fig. 96: Checking Total Runout With Camshaft Supported On V-Blocks

11. Measure cam lobe height.
Cam Lobe Height Standard (New):

CAM LOBE HEIGHT STANDARD
INTAKE EXHAUST
33.925 mm (1.3356 in.)
(1)
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34.263 mm (1.3489 in.)

Primary (2) 34.092 mm (1.3422 in.)
Secondary 29.638 mm (1.1668 in.)
(1) '03-05 models
(2) '06-07 models
C/C: Cam Chain
Fig. 97: Measuring CAM Lobe Height

VALVE, SPRING, AND VALVE SEAL REMOVAL
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Identify the valves and valve springs as they are removed so that each item can be
reinstalled in its original position.

2. Using an appropriate-sized socket (A) and plastic mallet (B), lightly tap the
valve retainer to loosen the valve cotters.
Fig. 98: Tapping Valve Retainer

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3. Install the spring compressor. Compress the spring, and remove the valve
cotters.
Fig. 99: Installing Spring Compressor

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4. Remove the special tool, then remove the valve retainer and valve spring.
5. Install the valve guide seal remover.
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Fig. 100: Installing Valve Guide Seal

6. Remove the valve seal.
Fig. 101: Removing Valve Seal

VALVE INSPECTION

REMOVAL ).
2. Measure the valve in these areas.
Intake Valve Dimensions

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A Standard (New): 34.85---35.15 mm (1.372---1.384 in.)

B Standard (New): 108.7---109.5 mm (4.280---4.311 in.)
C Standard (New): 5.475---5.485 mm (0.2156---0.2159 in.)

Exhaust Valve Dimensions
A Standard (New): 29.85---30.15 mm (1.175---1.187 in.)

B Standard (New): 108.3---109.1 mm (4.264---4.295 in.)
C Standard (New): 5.450---5.460 mm (0.2146---0.2150 in.)
Fig. 102: Measuring Valve

VALVE STEM-TO-GUIDE CLEARANCE INSPECTION
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REMOVAL ).
2. Slide the valve out of its guide about 10 mm (0.39 in.), then measure the guide-
to-stem clearance with a dial indicator while rocking the stem in the direction
of normal thrust (wobble method).
If the measurement exceeds the service limit, recheck it using a new valve.
If the measurement is now within the service limit, reassemble using a

new valve.
If the measurement with a new valve still exceeds the service limit, go to
step 3.

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Fig. 103: Sliding Valve Out

3. Subtract the O.D. of the valve stem, measured with a micrometer, from the I.D.
of the valve guide, measured with an inside micrometer or ball gauge. Take the
measurements in three places along the valve stem and three places inside the
valve guide. The difference between the largest guide measurement and the
smallest stem measurement should not exceed the service limit.
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2006 Honda Accord


VALVE GUIDE REPLACEMENT
Valve guide driver, 5.5 mm 07742-0010100

Valve guide reamer, 5.5 mm 07HAH-PJ7010B
1. Inspect valve stem-to-guide clearance (see VALVE INSPECTION ).

2. As illustrated, use a commercially available air-impact valve guide driver (A)
modified to fit the diameter of the valve guides. In most cases, the same
procedure can be done using the special tool and a conventional hammer.
Fig. 104: Identifying Valve Guide Driver

3. Select the proper replacement guides, and chill them in the freezer section of a
refrigerator for about an hour.
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4. Use a hot plate or oven to evenly heat the cylinder head to 300 F (150 C).
Monitor the temperature with a cooking thermometer. Do not get the head
hotter than 300 F (150 C); excessive heat may loosen the valve seats.
Fig. 105: Using A Hot Plate Or Oven To Evenly Heat Cylinder Head
5. Working from the camshaft side, use the driver and an air hammer to drive the
guide about 2 mm (0.1 in.) towards the combustion chamber. This will knock
off some of the carbon and make removal easier. Hold the air hammer directly
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2006 Honda Accord
in line with the valve guide to prevent damaging the driver. Wear safety
goggles or a face shield.
6. Turn the head over, and drive the guide out toward the camshaft side of the
head.
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2006 Honda Accord
Fig. 106: Turning Head Over, And Drive Guide Out Toward Camshaft
Side Of Head
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2006 Honda Accord
7. If a valve guide won't move, drill it out with a 8 mm (5/16 in.) bit, then try
again. Drill guides only in extreme cases; you could damage the cylinder head
if the guide breaks.
8. Take out the new guide(s) from the freezer, one at a time, as you need them.
9. Apply a thin coat of clean engine oil to the outside of the new valve guide.
Install the guide from the camshaft side of the head; use the special tool to
drive the guide in to the specified installed height (A) of the guide (B). If you
have all 16 guides to do, you may have to reheat the head.
Valve Guide Installed Height
Intake: 15.2---16.2 mm (0.598---0.638 in.)
Exhaust: 15.5---16.5 mm (0.610---0.650 in.)
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Fig. 107: Installing Guide From Camshaft Side Of Head

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10. Coat both reamer and valve guide with cutting oil.
11. Rotate the reamer clockwise the full length of the valve guide bore.
Fig. 108: Rotating Reamer

12. Continue to rotate the reamer clockwise while removing it from the bore.
13. Thoroughly wash the guide in detergent and water to remove any cutting
residue.
14. Check the clearances with a valve (see VALVE INSPECTION ). Verify that a
valve slides in the intake and exhaust valve guides without exerting pressure.
15. Inspect the valve seating, if necessary renew the valve seat using a valve seat
cutter (see VALVE SEAT RECONDITIONING ).
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2006 Honda Accord
VALVE SEAT RECONDITIONING
1. Inspect valve stem-to-guide clearance (see VALVE INSPECTION ). If the

valve guides are worn, replace them (see VALVE GUIDE
REPLACEMENT ) before cutting the valve seats.
2. Renew the valve seats in the cylinder head using a valve seat cutter.
Fig. 109: Renewing Valve Seats In Cylinder Head Using A Valve Seat
Cutter
3. Carefully cut a 45 seat, removing only enough material to ensure a smooth

and concentric seat.
4. Bevel the upper and lower edges at the angles shown in Fig. 110 . Check the
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2006 Honda Accord
width of the seat and adjust accordingly.
Fig. 110: Checking Width Of Seat

5. Make one more very light pass with the 45 cutter to remove any possible burrs
caused by the other cutters.
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2006 Honda Accord
Valve Seat Width

6. After resurfacing the seat, inspect for even valve seating. Apply Prussian Blue
compound (A) to the valve face. Insert the valve in its original location in the
head, then lift it and snap it closed against the seat several times.
Fig. 111: Applying Prussian Blue Compound To Valve Face

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7. The actual valve seating surface (B), as shown in Fig. 111by the blue
compound, should be centered on the seat.
If it is too high (closer to the valve stem), you must make a second cut
with the 67.5 cutter to move it down, then one more cut with the 45
cutter to restore seat width.
If it is too low (close to the valve edge), you must make a second cut with
the 35 cutter (intake side) or the 30 cutter (exhaust side) to move it up,
then make one more cut with the 45 cutter to restore seat width.
NOTE: The final cut should always be made with the 45 cutter.
8. Insert the intake and exhaust valves in the head, and measure valve stem
installed height (A).
Intake Valve Stem Installed Height

Exhaust Valve Stem Installed Height
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2006 Honda Accord
Fig. 112: Inserting Intake And Exhaust Valves In Head

9. If valve stem installed height is over the service limit, replace the valve and
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2006 Honda Accord
recheck. If it is still over the service limit, replace the cylinder head; the valve
seat in the head is too deep.
VALVE, SPRING, AND VALVE SEAL INSTALLATION
Stem seal driver 07PAD-0010000

1. Coat the valve stems with new engine oil. Install the valves in the valve guides.
2. Check that the valves move up and down smoothly.
3. Install the spring seats on the cylinder head.
4. Install the new valve seals (A) using the stem seal driver (B).
NOTE: The exhaust valve seal (C) has a black spring (D), and
the intake valve seal (E) has a white spring (F). They are
not interchangeable.
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Fig. 113: Installing Valve Seals

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5. Install the valve spring. Place the end of the valve spring with closely wound
coils toward the cylinder head.
6. Install the valve retainer.
7. Install the valve spring compressor. Compress the spring, and install the valve
cotters.
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2006 Honda Accord
Fig. 114: Installing Valve Spring Compressor

8. Lightly tap the end of each valve stem two or three times with a plastic mallet
(A) to ensure proper seating of the valve and valve cotters. Tap the valve stem
only along its axis so you do not bend the stem.
Fig. 115: Lightly Tapping End Of Each Valve Stem

ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
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1. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT
DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY ).
2. Clean and dry the No. 5 rocker shaft holder mating surface.
or 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder head mating surface of the No. 5 rocker
shaft holder.

the liquid gasket.

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2006 Honda Accord
4. Insert the bolts (A) into the rocker shaft holder, then install the rocker arm
assembly (B) on the cylinder head.
Fig. 117: Inserting Bolts Into Rocker Shaft Holder

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5. Remove the bolts from the rocker shaft holder.

6. Make sure the punch marks on the variable valve timing control (VTC)
actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket are facing up, then set the camshafts
(A) in the holder.
Fig. 118: Setting Camshafts In Holder

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7. Set the camshaft holders (B) and cam chain guide B (C) in place.
8. Tighten the bolts in sequence to the specified torque.
NOTE: If the engine does not have bolt(21), skip it and

continue the torque sequence.

9. Install the cam chain (see CAM CHAIN INSTALLATION ), and adjust the
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2006 Honda Accord
valve clearance (see VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT ).

CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION
Install the cylinder head in the reverse order of removal.
1. Install the new coolant separator in the engine block, when replacing the
engine block.
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Fig. 120: Installing Coolant Separator In Engine Block

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2. Clean the cylinder head and engine block surface.

3. Install the new cylinder head gasket (A) and dowel pins (B) on the engine
block. Always use a new cylinder head gasket.
Fig. 121: Installing Cylinder Head Gasket

4. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the
crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B) on the engine block.
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Fig. 122: Aligning TDC Mark On Crankshaft Sprocket

5. Install the cylinder head on the engine block.
6. Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt at point A and point B.
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Fig. 123: Measuring Diameter Of Each Cylinder Head Bolt At Point And
Point
7. If either diameter is less than 10.6 mm (0.42 in.), replace the cylinder head
bolt.
8. Apply new engine oil to the threads and flange of all cylinder head bolts.
9. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 39 N.m (4.0 kgf.m, 29 lbf.ft).
sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while
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2006 Honda Accord
you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it from the first step.
Specified Toque: 39 N.m (4.0 kgf.m, 29 lbf.ft)
Fig. 124: Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts

10. After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90 per step). If you
are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90.
NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it

beyond the specified angel, and go back to step 6 of the
procedure. Do not loosen it back to the specified angel.
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Fig. 125: Identifying Tightening Steps Of Bolts

11. Install the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION ).
13. Tighten the two bolts (A) securing the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister
purge valve bracket and tighten the bolt (B) securing the harness brackets.
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Fig. 126: Tightening Bolts Securing Evaporative Emission (EVAP)

Canister Purge Valve Bracket
14. Install the upper radiator hose (A) and heater hoses (B).
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Fig. 127: Installing Upper Radiator Hose

15. Install the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose (A) and ground cable (B).
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Fig. 128: Installing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Hose

16. Install the water bypass hose (A).
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2006 Honda Accord
Fig. 129: Installing Water Bypass Hose

17. Tighten the bolt (B) securing the connecting pipe.

18. Install the exhaust manifold (see EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
19. Install the intake manifold (see INSTALLATION (2006 MODEL) ).
20. Install the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister hose (A) and brake booster
vacuum hose (B).
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Fig. 130: Installing Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Hose

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21. Connect the fuel feed hose (see FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
INSTALLATION ), then install the quick-connect fitting cover (A). Make
sure the connector engages fully.
Fig. 131: Connecting Fuel Feed Hose

22. Install the intake air duct (A), then connect the intake air temperature (IAT)
sensor connector (B), and install the vacuum hose (C) and breather pipe (D).
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Fig. 132: Installing Intake Air Duct

correctly.
starter) so that the fuel pump runs for about 2 seconds and pressurizes the fuel
line. Repeat this operation two or three times, then check for fuel leakage at
any point in the fuel line.
with the heater valve open (see COOLANT CHECK ).
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2006 Honda Accord
26. Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see RESETTING THE
POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).
29. Set the clock.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Dashboard - Accord
Dashboard - Accord
INSTRUMENT PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related

parts.
1. Tilt the steering column down.

2. Remove the instrument panel (A).
-1 Remove the screws (B).
-2 Gently pull out along the bottom to release the clips (C) and hooks (D).
-3 Gently pull out the upper portion of the panel.
-4 With auto A/C: Disconnect the in-car temperature sensor connector (E)
and the air hose (F).
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Fig. 1: Removing Instrument Panel

3. Install the panel in the reverse order of removal. If equipped, make sure the in-
car temperature sensor connector is plugged in properly, and the air hose is
connected securely.
INSTRUMENT UPPER VISOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
1. Remove these items:

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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 12:24:13 PM Page 2 2005 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC.
Instrument panel (see INSTRUMENT PANEL

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Gauge control module
2. Remove the screws, then remove the instrument upper visor (A).
Fig. 2: Removing Instrument Upper Visor

3. Install the visor in the reverse order of removal.

DRIVER'S DASHBOARD LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

parts.
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When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with

1. Adjust the steering column upward.

2. Remove the screw (A).
Fig. 3: Removing Driver's Dashboard Lower Cover Screw

3. Pull out the bottom of the driver's dashboard lower cover (B) to detach the
lower clips (C).
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4. Detach the upper clips (D) and a hook (E) by pulling the driver's dashboard
lower cover back.
5. If any of the clips (C, D) securing the driver's dashboard lower cover is hard to
detach, pry it with a flat-tip screwdriver.
6. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover (A). If equipped, disconnect the
moonroof switch connector (B).
Fig. 4: Removing Driver's Dashboard Lower Cover

7. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and make sure each connector
is plugged in properly.
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DRIVER'S DASHBOARD UNDER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

'04-07 MODELS
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover (see DRIVER'S DASHBOARD

LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
2. Remove the driver's dashboard under cover (A).
-1 Gently pull down the rear edge to detach the clips.
-2 Pull the cover away to release the pins (B) from the holders (C).
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Fig. 5: Removing Driver's Dashboard Under Cover

3. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal.

UPPER PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
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Upper panel/vent removal tool 07AAC-SDAA100
1. Push the hazard warning switch button (A). Carefully insert a flat-tip
screwdriver into the slot (B) below the button, and push down on the center
clip.
Fig. 6: Pushing Hazard Warning Switch Button

With the special tool and a flat-tip screwdriver

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2. Set both ends of the special tool in the center vent openings (A) as shown
below. While pressing the center clip (B) down, pull the upper panel (C) back
with the tool to detach the clips (D).
Fig. 7: Setting Both Ends Of Special Tool In Center Vent Openings

With two flat-tip screwdrivers
3. Carefully insert a flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with tape into the slot (A) on
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one side of the upper panel (B). While pressing down on the center clip (C),
carefully pull out on the side of the panel to detach the clips (D). Repeat this
operation on the other side of the panel.
Fig. 8: Inserting Flat-Tip Screwdriver Wrapped With Tape Into Slot On

Side Of Upper Panel
4. Pull the upper panel (A) in the direction shown in Fig. 9 to release the
remaining clips, disconnect the hazard warning switch connector (B), and if
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equipped, sunlight sensor connector (C) and navigation subdisplay connector

(D). Detach the harness clips (E), then remove the upper panel.
Fig. 9: Pulling Upper Panel

5. Install the panel in the reverse order of removal, and make sure each connector
is plugged in properly.
CENTER POCKET REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
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COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ) and the precautions and procedures (see

PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing repairs or service.

Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related
parts.

2. Remove the center pocket (A).
-1 Remove the screws (B).
-2 Open the lid, then pull the pocket back by hand to detach the clips (C).
-3 Close the lid, then remove the pocket.
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Fig. 10: Removing Center Pocket

3. Install the pocket in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the holders (D) are installed onto the pins (E) properly.
Push the clipped portions into place securely.
Make sure the center pocket lid opens smoothly.
GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
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parts.
1. Detach the hook (A) of the glove box damper (B), and remove the screws.
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Fig. 11: Detaching Hook Of Glove Box Damper

2. While holding the glove box (A), release the glove box stop (B) on each side
from the dashboard by pushing them in, then remove the glove box.
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Fig. 12: Releasing Glove Box Stop On Each Side From Dashboard Pushing
In
3. Open the passenger's door, and gently pull out on the front of the dashboard
side cover (A) to release the hooks (B), and remove the cover.
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Fig. 13: Pulling Out Front Of Dashboard Side cover To Release Hooks
4. Remove the screw, then remove the glove box damper (A).
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Fig. 14: Removing Glove Box Damper

5. Install the glove box in the reverse order of removal.

GLOVE BOX LOCK CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the glove box.
1. Remove the glove box (see GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).

2. Pull out the glove box knob (A) and use a hooked-shaped tool to pull the top
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end of the retainer (B) out of its slot (C).
NOTE: Do not remove the retainer entirely. Leave the other

side of it in the original position when removing and
installing the lock cylinder.
Fig. 15: Removing Glove Box Knob

3. Remove the glove box lock cylinder (A).
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Fig. 16: Removing Glove Box Lock Cylinder

4. Reinstall the top of the retainer (A) in its original position, then reinstall the
lock cylinder (B). Push the cylinder into place securely until the retainer snaps
into place.
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Fig. 17: Reinstalling Top Of Retainer In Original Position

PASSENGER'S DASHBOARD LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover (A).

-1 Gently pull down the edge nearest the glove box to detach the clips.
-2 Pull the cover away to release the pins (B) from the holders (C).
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Fig. 18: Removing Passenger's Dashboard Lower Cover

2. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal.

DASHBOARD SIDE VENT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
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DRIVER'S

parts.

2. Push up the lower clips by hand, then push out the driver's side vent (A) by
releasing the upper and side tabs (B).
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Fig. 19: Pushing Out Driver's Side Vent Releasing Upper And Tabs
3. Reinstall the tab portions of the vent first, then push the clip portions into place
securely.
PASSENGER'S
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parts.
1. Detach the hook of the glove box damper, then lower the glove box (see
GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
2. Carefully insert a flat-tip screwdriver under the clip, and push it up.
3. Pull out along the edge of the passenger's side vent (A) by hand to release the
lower clips and the upper and side tabs (B). Then remove the vent.
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Fig. 20: Pulling Out Edge Of Passenger's Side Vent To Release Lower
Clips And Upper & Side Tabs
4. Reinstall the tab portions of the vent first, then push the clip portions into place
securely.
DASHBOARD/STEERING HANGER BEAM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
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NOTE: When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with

protective tape, and apply protective tape around the
related parts to prevent damage.
Have an assistant help you when removing and
installing the dashboard/steering hanger beam.
Take care not to scratch the dashboard, body and other
related parts.
system, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes
before beginning work.
Center console (see CENTER CONSOLE
Driver's dashboard lower cover (see DRIVER'S DASHBOARD
LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Passenger's dashboard lower coverPASSENGER'S DASHBOARD
LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Center pocket (see CENTER POCKET
Glove box (see GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
Driver's dashboard under cover (see DRIVER'S DASHBOARD

LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Kick panels, both sides, 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA ), 4-
door (see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA )
A-pillar trim, both sides, 2-door without side curtain airbags (see A-
PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04
MODELS) ), 2-door with side curtain airbags (see A-PILLAR - WITH
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-06 MODELS) , 4-door without side
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curtain airbags (see A-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN

AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS)). , ), 4-door with side curtain airbags (see
A-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-06 MODELS) ).
Steering column (see STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
4. Remove the screw (A) and release the clip (B), then remove the driver's center
lower cover (C) by releasing the hooks (D).
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Fig. 21: Removing Driver's Center Lower Cover Releasing Hooks

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5. Release the clip, then remove the passenger's center lower cover (A) and the
rear vent duct (B) by releasing the hooks (D) and the hook (E) ('04-07 models).
Fig. 22: Removing Passenger's Center Lower Cover And Rear Vent Duct
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Releasing Hooks ('04-06 Models)

6. Remove the SRS control unit (see SRS UNIT REPLACEMENT ).

Driver's side
7. From under the dash, disconnect the roof wire harness connector (A) (with
moonroof), clutch switch connectors (B) (on M/T model), and brake switch
connector (C), floor wire harness connectors (D), engine compartment wire
harness connectors (E), and disconnect the dashboard wire harness connectors
(F) from the under-dash fuse/relay box (G), then release the wire harness clip
(H). On auto A/C model, disconnect the air hose (I).
NOTE: Lift the white wire harness connector locks (J) before
trying to remove the connectors from the fuse box.
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Fig. 23: Disconnecting Interior Wire Harness Connector (With Moonroof)

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Middle portion (shift lever portion)

8. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A), radio antenna connector
(B), antenna lead (C), and A/C subharness connector (D), then release the wire
harness clips (E).
Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the ground bolt (F). On A/T model, disconnect
the parking pin switch connector (G) and shift lock solenoid connector (H).
Fig. 24: Removing Parking Brake Switch Connector

Middle portion (passenger's side)

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9. From under the dash, disconnect the ECM/PCM connector (A), power
transistor connector (B), and engine wire harness connector (C), then release
the wire harness clips (D).
Fig. 25: Disconnecting ECM/PCM Connector

Passenger's side
10. From under the dash, disconnect the passenger's door wire harness connectors
(A), floor wire harness connector (B), and blower motor connector (C). On
vehicles with navigation system, disconnect connectors (D).
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Fig. 26: Disconnecting Passenger's Door Wire Harness Connectors

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11. Detach all of the harness and connector clips.

12. Remove bolts, then remove the brake pedal support member (A).
Fig. 27: Removing Brake Pedal Support Member

13. Cover the parking brake handle to protect it.
14. Open the driver's door, and remove the caps (A), then remove the bolts (B, C,
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D), and clips (E) and lift up on the dashboard (F)/steering hanger beam to
release it from the guide pins (G, H).
NOTE: Before removing the dashboard/steering hanger beam,

make sure all the harnesses have been disconnected.
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Fig. 28: Removing Caps, Bolts And Clips & Lifting Up On Dashboard
15. Carefully remove the dashboard/steering hanger beam through the front door
opening.
NOTE: Lay the dashboard/steering hanger beam on its front or

back. Do not stand it on the lower console opening or
you may damage it.
16. Remove the bolts (A), then remove the center bracket (B).
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Fig. 29: Removing Center Bracket

17. Install the dashboard/steering hanger beam in the reverse order of removal, and
note these items:
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the bolts securing the center
bracket and the dashboard center frame before reinstallation.
Reinstall the center bracket on the center frame, and slightly tighten the
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mounting bolts. Reinstall the dashboard/steering hanger beam on the body.

After tightening both dashboard/steering hanger beam mounting bolts,
tighten the center bracket mounting bolts and center frame mounting bolts.
Make sure the dashboard/steering hanger beam fits onto the guide pins
correctly.
Before tightening the bolts, make sure none of the wire harnesses are
pinched.
Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the antenna lead
and air hose are connected properly.
Reconnect the negative cable to the battery.
enter the radio station presets.
Reset the clock.
DASHBOARD REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the dashboard (see DASHBOARD/STEERING HANGER BEAM

2. Remove these items from the dashboard:
Upper panel (see UPPER PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Instrument panel (see INSTRUMENT PANEL

Gauge control module (see GAUGE CONTROL MODULE
REPLACEMENT )
Audio-HVAC-Display module (see AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY
MODULE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Passenger's airbag (see FRONT PASSENGER'S AIRBAG
REPLACEMENT )
Glove box damper (see step 4 in GLOVE BOX
3. Detach the hooks by pulling both blind covers (A) back, release the hooks (B),
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then remove the covers.
Fig. 30: Detaching Hooks By Pulling Blind Covers Back

4. On both sides, detach the clips and release the hooks (A), then remove the
tweeters (B) or tweeter grille. Disconnect the tweeter connectors (C).
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Fig. 31: Detaching Clips And Releasing Hooks On Both Sides

5. From the front of the dashboard, detach the harness clips (A, B).
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Fig. 32: Detaching Harness Clips

6. From the back of the dashboard, Detach the harness clips (A) from both sides.
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Fig. 33: Detaching Harness Clips From Both Sides (Driver's Side)
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Fig. 34: Detaching Harness Clips From Both Sides (Passenger's Side)
7. On passenger's side disconnect the glove box light bulb socket (B), and detach
the connectors (C).
8. Remove the screws (A, B) securing the dashboard (C) and steering hanger
beam (D), and detach the clips (E), then separate the dashboard and steering
hanger beam.
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Fig. 35: Removing Screws Securing Dashboard And Steering Hanger

Beam
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9. Install the dashboard in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the dashboard wire harness (F) is not pinched.
Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the glove box light
bulb socket is connected securely.
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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Doors - Accord
Doors - Accord
COMPONENT LOCATIONS INDEX

2 DOOR
2-door
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Door Components (2-Door - 1 Of 2)

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 3: Locating Door Components (2-Door - 2 Of 2)

4-DOOR
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2007 Honda Accord
Front Door
Fig. 4: Locating Front Door Components (4-Door - 1 Of 2)

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 5: Locating Front Door Components (4-Door - 2 Of 2)

Rear Door
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 6: Locating Rear Door Components (4-Door - 1 Of 2)

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 7: Locating Rear Door Components (4-Door - 2 Of 2)

DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

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Trim pad remover, Snap-on A 177A or equivalent, commercially available

2-DOOR
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid
damage when prying components.
1. Lower the glass fully.

2. Using a trim tool, pry out on the lower portion of the cover (A) to release the
hooks (B, C), then remove the cover and the screws.
Fig. 8: Prying Out Lower Portion Of Cover To Release Hooks

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3. Remove the power window switch panel (A).

-1 Insert a flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with protective tape through the
hole under the armrest, and push up the bottom of the power window
switch (B) to release the panel.
-2 Pull out along the edge of the panel to release the hook (C) and clips
(D).
-3 Disconnect the power mirror switch connector (E) (driver's) and the
power window switch connector (F).
Fig. 9: Removing Power Window Switch Panel

4. Remove the screws (G) from under the armrest.

5. Remove the mirror mount cover (see step 2 on POWER
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MIRROR/MANUAL MIRROR REPLACEMENT ).

6. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing
or breaking it.
-1 Start at the bottom edge of the door panel, release the clips that are just
above the marks (B) on the edge of the panel with a commercially
available trim pad remover.
-2 Detach the upper clips.
-3 Starting at the rear, pull the door panel upward and over the lock knob
(C).
NOTE: The inner handle cable (D) and the courtesy light
bulb socket (E) are connected to the door panel. Do
not pull the door panel up too far, or the inner
handle cable will be damaged.
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Fig. 10: Removing Door Panel

7. While holding the door panel (A) away from the door, disconnect the inner
handle cable (B) and courtesy light bulb socket (C), and detach the harness clip
(D) from the panel, then remove the panel.
Fig. 11: Disconnecting Inner Handle Cable And Courtesy Light Bulb
Socket (Back View)
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8. If necessary, remove the door glass inner weatherstrip (A) from the door panel
(B) by pulling it down.
Fig. 12: Removing Door Glass Inner Weatherstrip From Door Panel
9. Install the panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
new ones.
Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the cable and the
bulb socket are connected properly.
Make sure the window and power door lock operate properly.
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When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed
properly and sealed around its around its outside perimeter to seal out
water.
Check for water leaks.
FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

4-DOOR

2. Using a trim tool, pry out on the rear portion of the cover (A) to release the
hooks (B, C), then remove the cover and the screws securing the inner handle
(D).
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Fig. 13: Removing Cover And Screws Securing Inner Handle

3. Remove the power window switch panel (A).
-1 Pry up on the rear edge of the switch panel with a trim tool to release
the rear clip.
-2 Pull out along the edge of the panel to release the hooks (B) and front
clip.
-3 Disconnect the power mirror switch connector (C) (driver's) and the
power window switch connector (D).
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Fig. 14: Removing Power Window Switch Panel (Driver's)

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Fig. 15: Removing Power Window Switch Panel (Passenger's)

4. Remove the screw from under the pull pocket cap (A).
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Fig. 16: Removing Screw From Under Pull Pocket Cap

5. Remove the mirror mount cover (see step 2 on POWER
MIRROR/MANUAL MIRROR REPLACEMENT ).
or breaking it.
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-3 Starting at the rear, pull the door panel upward and over the lock knob
(C).
NOTE: The inner handle cable (D) and the courtesy light
bulb socket (E) are connected to the door panel. Do
not pull the door panel up too far, or the inner
handle cable will be damaged.

7. While holding the door panel (A) away from the door, disconnect the inner
handle cable (B), and if equipped, courtesy light bulb socket (C), and detach
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the harness clip (D), then remove the panel. If necessary, remove the inner
handle (E) by releasing the hooks (F, G).
Fig. 18: Disconnecting Inner Handle Cable And Harness Clip (Back View)
(B) by pulling it down.
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9. Install the door panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
new ones.
Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the cable and the
bulb socket are connected properly.
If equipped, make sure the window and power door lock operate properly.

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properly and sealed around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
DOOR OUTER HANDLE REPLACEMENT
2-DOOR

Door panel (see DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Plastic cover, as necessary (see 2-Door )
2. Raise the glass fully.

3. Disconnect the outer handle rod (A) and cylinder rod (B) from the joint
bushings (C).
NOTE: Check the joint bushing for damage and replace if

necessary.
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Fig. 20: Disconnecting Outer Handle Rod And Cylinder Rod From Joint
Bushings
4. Release the retainer clip (A), then remove the lock cylinder (B).
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Fig. 21: Releasing Retainer Clip And Lock Cylinder

5. Remove the screw, then separate the lock cylinder (A) and lock cylinder switch
(B).
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Fig. 22: Separating Lock Cylinder And Lock Cylinder Switch

6. Disconnect the lock cylinder switch connector (A), and detach the harness clip
(B), then remove the lock cylinder switch (C).
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Fig. 23: Disconnecting Lock Cylinder Switch Connector And Harness Clip
7. Remove the maintenance cap (A). While holding the outer handle (B) from the
outside of the door, remove the bolts, then remove the outer handle protector
(C) by sliding it forward to release the hook (D).
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Fig. 24: Removing Maintenance Cap

8. Pull out the outer handle (A) in the numbered sequence, and remove it.
Fig. 25: Pulling Out Outer Handle In Sequence

9. Install the handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the lock cylinder switch harness is routed properly.
Make sure the lock cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly, and
each rod is connected securely.
Be sure that the end of the lock cylinder is engaged with the lock cylinder
switch correctly.
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Make sure the door locks and opens properly.

When installing the lock cylinder, leave the outer door handle bolts loose
so the inner protector does not interfere with the lock cylinder, then
tighten the handle bolts.
Install the lock cylinder retaining clip on the handle, then install the lock
cylinder. Be sure the clip is fully seated in the slot on the lock cylinder.
FRONT DOOR OUTER HANDLE REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR

Door panel (see FRONT DOOR PANEL
Plastic cover, as necessary (see 4-DOOR )

3. Pull the glass run channel (A) away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then
remove the center lower channel (B) by pulling it downward.
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Fig. 26: Pulling Glass Run Channel Away

4. Remove the maintenance cap (A), then disconnect the outer handle rod (B),
and cylinder rod (C) from the joint bushings (D).
NOTE: Check the joint bushing for damage and replace if

necessary.
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Fig. 27: Removing Maintenance Cap And Disconnecting Outer Handle

Rod
5. Driver's and some passenger's: Remove the maintenance cap (A) from the rear
of the door, then loosen the screw securing the lock cylinder protector (B) and
the outer handle (C).
NOTE: Because of the tape (D) on the middle of threads, the

screw will stay on the protector after it is loosened.
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Fig. 28: Removing Maintenance Cap From Rear Of Door

6. Remove the bolt, slide the lock cylinder protector (A) rearward, then remove
the lock cylinder switch (for some models), lock cylinder, and lock cylinder
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protector as an assembly.
Fig. 29: Sliding Lock Cylinder Protector Rearward

7. With lock cylinder switch: Disconnect the lock cylinder switch connector (A),
and detach the harness clips (B), then remove the lock cylinder switch (C).
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Fig. 30: Disconnecting Lock Cylinder Switch Connector

8. Remove the screws, then separate the lock cylinder (A), lock cylinder switch
(B) (for some models), and lock cylinder protector (C).
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Fig. 31: Separating Lock Cylinder, Lock Cylinder Switch And Lock
Cylinder Protector
9. Remove the bolt, then remove the spacer (A).
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Fig. 32: Removing Spacer

10. While pulling the outer handle (A), remove the handle from the holes in the
door panel. Take care not to scratch the door.
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Fig. 33: Removing Handle From Holes In Door Panel

Make sure the lock cylinder switch harness is routed properly (for some
models).
Make sure the lock cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly (for
some models), and each rod is connected securely.
Be sure that the end of the lock cylinder is engaged with the lock cylinder
switch correctly.
Make sure the door lock cylinder/door locks operate properly.
Make sure the door handle works properly.

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DOOR LATCH REPLACEMENT
2-DOOR

Door panel (see DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Plastic cover, as necessary (see 2 Door )
3. Disconnect the cylinder rod from the lock cylinder, then disconnect the outer
handle rod from the outer handle (see step 3 in Door Outer Handle
Replacement ).
4. Pull the glass run channel (A) away as necessary, and remove the bolt, then
remove the center lower channel (B) by pulling it downward.
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Fig. 34: Removing Center Lower Channel

5. Remove the screw securing the lock knob (A).
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Fig. 35: Removing Screw Securing Lock Knob

6. Detach the inner handle cable clip (A), and disconnect the actuator connectors
(B). Remove the screws, then remove the latch (C) through the hole in the
door. Take care not to bend the outer handle rod (D), cylinder rod (E), inner
handle cable (F), and lock cable (G).
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Fig. 36: Detaching Inner Handle Cable Clip

7. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the actuator connectors are plugged in property, and each rod is
connected securely.

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Driver's: Perform the power window control unit reset procedure (see
RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).
FRONT DOOR LATCH REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR

Door panel (see FRONT DOOR PANEL
Plastic cover, as necessary (see Front Door )
Center lower channel (see 3 )
3. Disconnect the cylinder rod from the lock cylinder, and disconnect the outer
handle rod from the outer handle (see 4 ).
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5. Disconnect the actuator connectors (A) (for some models), and detach the inner
handle cable clip (B). Remove the screws (C, D) securing the latch (E) and the
lock cable protector.
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Fig. 38: Disconnecting Actuator Connectors

6. Release the hooks (A) of the lock cable protector (B) from the door, then
remove the latch (C) with the protector through the hole in the door. Take care
not to bend the outer handle rod (D), cylinder rod (E), lock cable (F), and inner
handle cable (G).
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Fig. 39: Releasing Hooks Of Lock Cable Protector From Door

7. Remove the lock cable protector (A) from the latch protector (B) by releasing
the hook (C).
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Fig. 40: Removing Lock Cable Protector From Latch Protector By

Releasing Hook
If equipped, make sure the actuator connectors are plugged in properly and
each rod is connected securely.
Do the power window control unit rest procedure (see RESETTING

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FRONT DOOR GLASS AND REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the door panel, 2-door (see 2-DOOR ), 4-door (see 4-DOOR ).
2. 4-door: Remove the screws, then remove the panel bracket (A).
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Fig. 41: Removing Panel Bracket

3. Remove the plastic cover, 2-door (see 2-Door ), 4-door (see 4-DOOR ).
4. Carefully raise the glass (A) until you can see the bolts, then remove them.
Carefully pull the glass out through the window slot. Take care not to drop the
glass inside the door.
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Fig. 42: Raising Glass And Removing (2-Door)

Fig. 43: Raising Glass And Removing (4-Door)

5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the regulator (B).
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Fig. 44: Disconnecting Connector From Regulator (2-Door)

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Fig. 45: Disconnecting Connector From Regulator (4-Door)

6. Remove the bolts (C), and loosen the bolts (D), then remove the regulator
through the hole in the door.
7. Apply multipurpose grease to all the sliding surfaces of the regulator (A) where
shown below.
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Fig. 46: Applying Multipurpose Grease To Sliding Surfaces

8. Install the glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding.
Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and glass run
channel when the glass is closed.
Adjust the position of the glass as necessary (see Front and Rear Door
Glass Adjustment ).
Test-drive and check for wind noise and rattles.
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Make sure the power door locks, windows, and power mirror operate
properly.
DOOR SASH TRIM REPLACEMENT
2-DOOR
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the door.

2. Remove the mirror (see POWER MIRROR/MANUAL MIRROR
REPLACEMENT ).
3. Slide the door glass outer weatherstrip (A) forward to release the hook (B) on
bottom of the door sash trim (C) from under the rear end of the weatherstrip.
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Fig. 47: Sliding Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip Forward To Release Hook
4. Pull back the door weatherstrip (A) at the rear upper corner, and pull the glass
run channel (B) away as needed, then remove the screws.
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Fig. 48: Pulling Back Door Weatherstrip At Rear Upper Corner

5. Pull up the door sash trim (A) to release the hooks (B) from the holes in the
sash, then remove the trim.
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Fig. 49: Pulling Up Door Sash Trim To Release Hooks From Holes In Sash
6. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal.

FRONT DOOR GLASS OUTER WEATHERSTRIP REPLACEMENT

NOTE: If you remove the door glass outer weatherstrip, replace

it with a new one because it will bend.
Take care not to scratch the door.

Door panel, 2-door (see 2-DOOR ), 4-door (see 4-DOOR )
Mirror (see POWER MIRROR/MANUAL MIRROR

REPLACEMENT )
Door sash trim, 2-door (see 2-DOOR )
2. 4-door: Remove the screw from the rear edge of the door.
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Fig. 50: Removing Screw From Rear Edge Of Door (4-door)

3. Starting at the rear, pull the door glass outer weatherstrip (A) up at each portion
where the inner molding (B) catches the inside edge of the window slot.
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Fig. 51: Pulling Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip (2-Door)

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Fig. 52: Pulling Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip (4-Door)

4. Pull the rear of the glass outer weatherstrip (A) away from the door, then
release the front clip (B) from the mounting hole in the door. If necessary, pry
the clip, then remove the weatherstrip.
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Fig. 53: Pulling Rear Of Glass Outer Weatherstrip And Release Front
Clip
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5. Install new weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and perform the power
window control unit reset procedure (driver's) (see RESETTING THE
FRONT DOOR OUTER MOLDING REPLACEMENT
NOTE: If you remove the door outer molding, replace it with a

new one because it will bend during removal.

Mirror (see POWER MIRROR/MANUAL MIRROR
REPLACEMENT )
Door sash trim, 2-door (see 2-DOOR )
2. Remove the door outer molding (A).

-4-door: Pry the rear clip with a trim tool.
-While removing the upper edge of the door outer molding from the edge
of the sash, cut the double-sided adhesive tapes (B) with a utility knife,
then remove the molding.
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Fig. 54: Removing Door Outer Molding ('03 Model 2-Door)

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Fig. 55: Removing Door Outer Molding ('04-07 Models 2-Door)

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Fig. 56: Removing Door Outer Molding ('03 Model 4-Door)

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Fig. 57: Removing Door Outer Molding ('04-07 Models 4-Door)

3. Scrape off the remaining double-sided adhesive tape from the sash, then clean
the sash surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol.
4. Install new door outer molding in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
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Push the clip and the adhesive portions into place securely.
Make sure the upper and lower sides of the molding are catching the edges
of the sash properly.
FRONT DOOR WEATHERSTRIP REPLACEMENT

Use a clip remover to remove the clips.
1. At the A-pillar, remove the detent rod mounting bolt (A).
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Fig. 58: Removing Detent Rod Mounting Bolt (2-Door)

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Fig. 59: Removing Detent Rod Mounting Bolt (4-Door)

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2. Detach the clips (B, C, D), then remove the door weatherstrip (E).
3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
new ones.
Make sure the weatherstrip is installed in the holder (F) securely.
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to detent rod mounting bolt
before installation.
Test-drive and check for wind noise.
REAR DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

4-DOOR

2. Using a trim tool, pry out on the rear portion of the cover (A) to release the
hooks (B, C), then remove the cover and the screws securing the inner handle
(D).
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Fig. 60: Removing Cover And Screws Securing Inner Handle

3. Remove the switch panel (A).

-1 Pry up on the rear edge of the switch panel with a trim tool to release
the rear clip.
-2 Pull out along the edge of the panel to release the hooks (B) and clip.
-3 Disconnect the power window switch connector (C).
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Fig. 61: Removing Switch Panel

4. Remove the screw from under the pull pocket cap (A).
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Fig. 62: Removing Screw From Under Pull Pocket Cap

or breaking it.
-3 Starting at the front, pull the door panel upward and over the lock knob
(C).
NOTE: The inner handle cable (D) is connected to the door

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panel. Do not pull the door panel up too far, or the

inner handle cable will be damaged.

6. While holding the door panel away from the door, disconnect the inner handle
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cable (A), then remove the door panel. If necessary, remove the inner handle
(B) by releasing the hooks (C, D).
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Fig. 64: Removing Inner Handle By Releasing Hooks (Back View)

(B).
new ones.
Make sure the connector is plugged in properly and the cable is connected
securely.
If equipped, make sure the window and power door lock operate properly.
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When reinstalling the door panel, make sure plastic cover is installed
REAR DOOR OUTER HANDLE REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR

Door panel (see REAR DOOR PANEL
Plastic cover, as necessary (see Rear Door )

3. Remove the screws (A, B) securing the latch (C) and the cable protector (D).
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Fig. 66: Removing Screws Securing Latch And Cable Protector

4. Detach the cable clips (A) and the hook (B) of the cable protector (C), then pull
the latch (D) and the cable protector forward. Take care not to bend any of the
cables.
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Fig. 67: Detaching Cable Clips And Hook Of Cable Protector

5. Remove the maintenance hole seal (A) and bolts, slide the protector (B) ('03
model) or the outer handle bracket (C) ('04-06 models) rearward, then remove
it.
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Fig. 68: Removing Maintenance Hole Seal And Bolts ('03 Model)
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Fig. 69: Removing Maintenance Hole Seal And Bolts ('04-07 Models)
6. '03 model: Remove the spacer (D).

7. While pulling the outer handle (A), remove the handle from the holes in the
door panel. Take care not to scratch the door.
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Fig. 70: Removing Handle From Holes In Door Panel

REAR DOOR LATCH REPLACEMENT

4-DOOR
1. Remove the door panel (see REAR DOOR PANEL

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4. Remove the plastic cover, as needed (see Rear Door ).

5. Disconnect the actuator connector(s) (A) (for some models). Remove the
screws (B, C) securing the latch (D) and the cable protector (E).
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Fig. 72: Removing Screws Securing Latch And Cable Protector

6. Detach the cable clips (A) and the hook (B) of the cable protector (C), then
remove the latch (D) with the cable protector through the hole in the door.
Take care not to bend any of the cables.
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Fig. 73: Detaching Cable Clips And Hook Of Cable Protector

7. Remove the cable protector (A) from the latch protector (B) by releasing the
hook (C).
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Fig. 74: Removing Cable Protector From Latch Protector By Releasing

Hook
If equipped, make sure the actuator connector(s) are plugged in properly.
Make sure the door locks and the window operates properly.
REAR DOOR GLASS AND REGULATOR REPLACEMENT

4-DOOR
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Door panel (see REAR DOOR PANEL
Panel bracket (see step 2 in Front Door Glass and Regulator
Replacement )
Plastic cover, as necessary (see Rear Door )
2. Carefully move the glass (A) until you can see the bolts, then remove them.
Remove the glass from the regulator (B), and carefully lower the glass. Take
care not to drop the glass inside the door.
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Fig. 75: Removing Glass From Regulator

3. Pull the glass run channel (A) away as needed. Pull the door weatherstrip (B)
away as needed, then remove the screw (C). Remove the bolt (D) securing the
center channel (E).
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Fig. 76: Pulling Glass Run Channel

4. Pull the upper portion of the center channel (A) forward to remove it from the
door quarter glass seal (B), then pull up and remove the center channel out
through the window slot. Take care not to damage the outer weatherstrip (C).
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Fig. 77: Pulling Upper Portion Of Center Channel Forward To Remove

From Door Quarter Glass Seal
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5. Remove the quarter glass (A). Take care not to damage the outer weatherstrip
(B).
Fig. 78: Removing Quarter Glass

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6. Carefully remove the glass (A) out through the window slot. Take care not to
drop the glass inside the door.
Fig. 79: Removing Glass Through Window Slot

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7. Disconnect the connector (A) from the regulator (B).
Fig. 80: Disconnecting Connector From Regulator

8. Remove the bolts (C), and loosen the bolts (D), then remove the regulator
through the hole in the door.
9. Apply multipurpose grease to all the sliding surfaces of the regulator (A) where
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shown below.
Fig. 81: Applying Multipurpose Grease To Sliding Surfaces Of Regulator

10. Install the glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding.
Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and glass run
channel when the glass is closed.
Adjust the position of the glass as necessary (see Front and Rear Door
Glass Adjustment ).
Test-drive and check for wind noise and rattles.
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properly and sealed around its perimeter to seal out the water.
REAR DOOR GLASS OUTER WEATHERSTRIP REPLACEMENT

4-DOOR
NOTE: Once you remove the door glass outer weatherstrip,

replace it with a new one because it will bend.
1. Remove the door panel (see REAR DOOR PANEL

2. Remove the screw from the front edge of the door.
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Fig. 82: Removing Screw From Front Edge Of Door

3. Starting at the front, pull the door glass outer weatherstrip (A) up at each
portion where the inner molding (B) catches the inside edge of the window
slot.
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Fig. 83: Pulling Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip At Inner Molding Catches
Inside Edge Of Window Slot
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4. Detach the rear clip (A), then remove the door glass outer weatherstrip (B).
Fig. 84: Removing Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip

5. Install a new weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal.
REAR DOOR OUTER MOLDING REPLACEMENT
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4-DOOR
NOTE: If you remove the door outer molding, replace it with a

new one because it will bend during removal.
1. Pry the front clip (A) with a trim tool.
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Fig. 85: Prying Front Clip With Trim Tool ('03 Model)
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Fig. 86: Prying Front Clip With Trim Tool ('04-07 Models)
2. While removing the upper edge of the door outer molding (B) from the edge of
the sash, cut the double-sided adhesive tapes (C) with a utility knife, then
remove the molding.
3. Scrape off the remaining double-sided adhesive tape from the sash, then clean
the sash surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol.
4. Install new door outer molding in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items.
Push the clip and the adhesive portions into place securely.
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Make sure the upper and lower sides of the molding are catching the edges
of the sash properly.
REAR DOOR WEATHERSTRIP REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR

Use a clip remover to remove the clips.
1. At the B-pillar, remove the detent rod mounting bolt (A).
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Fig. 87: Removing Detent Rod Mounting Bolt

2. Detach the clips (B, C), then remove the door weatherstrip (D).
3. Install the weatherstrip in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
new ones.
Make sure the weatherstrip is installed in the holder (E) securely.
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the detent rod mounting bolt
before installation.
Test-drive and check for wind noise.
REAR DOOR HOOK PIN AND CATCH REPLACEMENT

4-DOOR
1. With a T40 Torx bit, remove the door hook pin (A) from the door.
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Fig. 88: Removing Door Hook Pin From Door

2. With a T40 Torx bit, remove the bolts, then remove the door catch (A) from
the body.
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Fig. 89: Removing Door Catch From Body

3. Install the hook pin and catch in the reverse order of removal, and apply
medium strength liquid thread lock to the threads of the door hook pin.
FRONT AND REAR DOOR GLASS ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Check the weatherstrips and glass run channel for

damage or deterioration, and replace them if necessary.
Wipe the run channel clean with a shop towel.
Lubricate the run channel with Shin-Etsu silicone
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grease P/N 08798-9013.
1. Place the vehicle on a firm, level surface.

Door panel, 2-door (see 2-DOOR ), 4-door front door (see 4-DOOR ), 4-
door rear door (see 4-DOOR )
Plastic cover, 2-door (see 2-DOOR ), 4-door front door (see 4-DOOR ),
4-door rear door (see REAR DOOR )
3. Carefully move the glass (A) until you can see the glass mounting bolts (B),
then loosen them.
Fig. 90: Loosening Glass Mounting Bolts (2-Door)

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Fig. 91: Loosening Glass Mounting Bolts (4-Door Front Door)

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Fig. 92: Loosening Glass Mounting Bolts (4-Door Rear Door)

4. Push the glass against the channel (C), then tighten the glass mounting bolts.
5. Check that the glass moves smoothly.
6. Raise the glass fully, and check for gaps. Also check that the glass (A) contacts
the glass run channel (B) evenly.
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Fig. 93: Checking Glass Contacts Glass Run Channel

7. Check for water leaks. Run water over the roof and on the sealing area as
shown in Fig. 94, and note these items:
Use a 12 mm (1/2 in.) diameter hose (A).
Adjust the rate of water flow as shown in (B), see Fig. 94.
Do not use a nozzle.
Hold the hose about 300 mm (12 in.) away from the door (C).
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Fig. 94: Checking For Water Leaks

8. Attach the plastic cover making sure it is sealed around its outside perimeter to
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seal out water, then install the door panel, 2-door (see 2-DOOR ), 4-door front
door (see 4-DOOR ), 4-door rear door (see 4-DOOR ).
10. Test-drive and check for wind noise.
FRONT AND REAR DOOR POSITION ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Check for a flush fit with the body, then check for equal
gaps between the front, rear, and bottom door edges and
the body. Check that the door and body edges are parallel.
1. Place the vehicle on a firm, level surface when adjusting the doors.
2. Adjust at the hinges (A):
On the front door: Remove the front inner fender (see FRONT INNER
FENDER REPLACEMENT ) and front fender fairing (see FRONT
FENDER FAIRING REPLACEMENT ). Loosen the hinge mounting
bolts (B) slightly, and move the door backward or forward, up or down as
necessary to equalize the gaps. Pad a floor jack (C) with shop towels (D),
then use the jack to support the door while adjusting it.
On the rear door: Remove the B-pillar lower trim, without side curtain
airbags (see 4-DOOR-B-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) ), with side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR-
B-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) )
and remove the front seat belt and retractor (see FRONT SEAT BELT
REPLACEMENT ), and the plug seal from the body. Loosen the hinge
mounting nuts (E) slightly, and move the door backward or forward, up or
down as necessary to equalize the gaps. Pad a floor jack (C) with shop
towels (D) then use the jack to support the door to prevent damage to the
door while adjusting it.
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Fig. 95: Adjusting Door At Hinges (2-Door And 4-Door Front Door)
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Fig. 96: Adjusting Door At Hinges (4-Door Rear Door)

3. If necessary, replace the door mounting bolts (F) with the adjusting bolts (P/N
90 102-SFA-305) made specifically for door adjustment, then adjust at the
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door: Loosen the adjusting bolts slightly, move the door in or out until it's flush
with the body, and up or down as necessary to equalize the gaps.
4. Check that the door and body edges are parallel. If necessary, adjust the door
cushions (A) to make the rear of the doors flush with the body.
Fig. 97: Adjusting Door Cushions

5. Apply touch-up paint to the hinge mounting bolts, and around the hinges.
6. Check for water leaks (see step 7 in Front and Rear Door Glass
Adjustment ).
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7. Test-drive and check for wind noise.

8. Reinstall all remaining removed parts.
FRONT AND REAR DOOR STRIKER ADJUSTMENT
Make sure the door latches securely without slamming it. If necessary, adjust the
striker (A): The striker can be adjusted slightly up or down, and in or out.
1. Loosen the screws (B).
Fig. 98: Adjusting Front And Rear Door Striker

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2. Wrap the striker with a shop towel, then adjust the striker by tapping it with a
plastic hammer (C). Do not tap the striker too hard.
3. Lightly tighten the screws.
4. Hold the outer handle out, and push the door against the body to be sure the
striker allows a flush fit. If the door latches properly, tighten the screws and
recheck.
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2003-07 DRIVELINE/AXLE Driveline/Axles - Accord (V6)
2003-07 DRIVELINE/AXLE
Driveline/Axles - Accord (V6)
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Components Of Driveline/Axles

DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL
Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL0A202

Ball joint thread protector, 12 mm 07AAF-SDAA100
1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.

locations, refer to LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS .
3. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheels.
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Fig. 3: identifying Wheel Nuts And Front Wheels

4. Lift up the locking tab (A) on the spindle nut (B), then remove the nut.
5. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer:
Manual transmission (see MANUAL TRANSMISSION )
Automatic transmission (see ATF REPLACEMENT )
6. Remove the self-locking nut (A), 12 mm flange bolt (B), and 10 mm flange
bolt (C), then remove the damper fork (D).
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Fig. 4: identifying Self-Locking Nut

7. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint castle nut (B), and
remove the nut.
NOTE: To avoid damaging the ball joint, install the ball

joint thread protector onto the threads of the ball
joint.
Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when
installing the remover.
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Fig. 5: identifying Cotter Pin From Lower Arm Ball Joint Castle Nut
8. Separate the ball joint from the lower arm (C) with the special tool, refer to
BALL JOINT REMOVAL .
9. Pull the knuckle outward, and remove the outboard joint from the front wheel
hub using a plastic hammer.
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Fig. 6: identifying Outboard Joint From Front Wheel Hub Using Plastic
Hammer
10. Left driveshaft: Pry the inboard joint (A) from the differential case with a
prybar. Right driveshaft: Drive the inboard joint off of the intermediate shaft
with a drift and hammer. Remove the driveshaft as an assembly. Do not pull on
the driveshaft (B), because the inboard joint may come apart. Pull the
driveshaft straight out to avoid damaging the oil seal.
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Fig. 7: Prying Inboard Joint From Differential Case With Prybar (Left
Driveshaft)
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Fig. 8: Prying Inboard Joint From Differential Case With Prybar (Right
Driveshaft)
DRIVESHAFT DISASSEMBLY
Threaded adapter, 24 x 1.5 mm 07XAC-001020A

Boot band pincers, commercially available
Slide hammer, 5/8"-18 UNF, commercially available
INBOARD JOINT SIDE
1. Remove the set ring from the inboard joint.
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Fig. 9: identifying Set Ring From Inboard Joint

2. Remove the boot bands. Be careful not to damage the boot.

If the boot band is a welded type (A), cut the boot band (B).
If the boot band is a double loop type (C), lift up the band end (D), and
push it into the clip (E).
If the boot band is a low profile type (F), pinch the boot band using a
commercially available boot band pincers (G).
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Fig. 10: identifying Boot Bands (Welded Type)

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Fig. 11: identifying Boot Bands (Double Loop Type)

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Fig. 12: identifying Boot Bands (Low Profile Type)

3. Make a mark (A) on each roller (B) and inboard joint (C) to identify the
locations of rollers and grooves in the inboard joint. Then remove the inboard
joint on the shop towel (D). Be careful not to drop the rollers when separating
them from the inboard joint.
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Fig. 13: Making Mark On Each Roller And Inboard Joint To Identifying
Locations In Inboard Joint
4. Make a mark (A) on the rollers (B) and spider (C) to identify the locations of
the rollers on the spider, then remove the rollers.
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Fig. 14: Making Mark On Rollers And Spider To Identify Locations On

Spider
5. Remove the circlip (D).

6. Mark the spider and driveshaft (E) to identify the position of the spider on the
shaft.
7. Remove the spider.
8. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the
boot.
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Fig. 15: Wrapping Splines On Driveshaft With Vinyl Tape

9. Remove the inboard boot. Be careful not to damage the boot.

10. Remove the vinyl tape.
OUTBOARD JOINT SIDE
1. Remove the boot bands (A). Lift up the three tabs (B) with a screwdriver. Be
careful not to damage the boot and dynamic damper.
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Fig. 16: identifying Boot Bands Lifting Tabs With Screwdriver

2. Slide the outboard boot (A) partially to the inboard joint side. Be careful not to
damage the boot.
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Fig. 17: Sliding Outboard Boot Partially To Inboard Joint Side

3. Wipe off the grease to expose the driveshaft and the outboard joint inner race.
4. Make a mark (A) on the driveshaft (B) at the same position as the outboard
joint end (C).
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Fig. 18: Making Mark On Driveshaft At Same Position As Outboard Joint

End
5. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
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Fig. 19: Clamping Driveshaft In Vise

6. Remove the outboard joint (A) using the special tool and a commercially
available 5/8"-18 UNF slide hammer (B).
7. Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
8. Remove the stop ring from the driveshaft.
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Fig. 20: identifying Stop Ring From Driveshaft

boot.
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10. Remove the outboard boot. Be careful not to damage the boot.
DYNAMIC DAMPER REPLACEMENT

Bearing separator 07KAF-PS30200
BAND TYPE
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1. Remove the inboard joint (see DRIVESHAFT DISASSEMBLY).

2. Remove the dynamic damper bands. Be careful not to damage the dynamic
damper (see DRIVESHAFT DISASSEMBLY).
If the band is a welded type, cut the band.
If the band is a double loop type, lift up the band end, and push it into the
clip.
If the band is a low profile type, pinch the band using a commercially
available boot band pincers.
dynamic damper.

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4. Remove the dynamic damper. Be careful not to damage the dynamic damper.
5. Adjust the position of the new dynamic damper to Fig. 23 .
Fig. 23: Adjusting Position Of Dynamic Damper

6. Install the dynamic damper band (see step 9 in Inboard Joint Side ).
7. Install the inboard joint (see step 1 in Inboard Joint Side ).
BANDLESS TYPE
1. Remove the inboard joint and outboard joint.

2. Remove the dynamic damper (A) using the special tool and a press as shown in
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Fig. 24.
Fig. 24: identifying Dynamic Damper Using Special Tool

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3. Mark the following position on the driveshaft (A).
Fig. 25: Marking Position On Driveshaft

4. Install the dynamic damper (A) to the marked position using the special tool
and a press as shown in Fig. 26.
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Fig. 26: Installing Dynamic Damper To Marked Position Using Special

Tool And Press
5. Install the inboard joint and outboard joint (see INBOARD JOINT SIDE ).
DRIVESHAFT REASSEMBLY
EXPLODED VIEW
M/T model:
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Fig. 27: Exploded View Of Driveshaft (M/T Model)

A/T model:
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Fig. 28: Exploded View Of Driveshaft (A/T Model)

Boot band tool, KD-3191 or equivalent, commercially available

Boot band pincers, Kent-Moore J-35910 or equivalent, commercially available
Boot band pincers, commercially available
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NOTE: Refer to the Fig. 28 as needed during this procedure.

INBOARD JOINT SIDE
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the inboard boot.
Fig. 29: Wrapping Splines With Vinyl Tape

2. Install the inboard boot onto the driveshaft, then remove the vinyl tape. Be
careful not to damage the inboard boot.
3. Install the spider (A) onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (B) on the
spider and the end of the driveshaft.
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Fig. 30: Installing Spider Onto Driveshaft By Aligning Marks On Spider

And End Of Driveshaft
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4. Fit the circlip (C) into the driveshaft groove. Rotate the circlip in its groove to
make sure it is fully seated.
5. Fit the rollers (A) onto the spider (B) with their high shoulders facing outward,
and note these items:
Reinstall the rollers in their original positions on the spider by aligning the
marks (C).
Hold the driveshaft pointed up to prevent the rollers from falling off.
Fig. 31: Fitting Rollers Onto Spider with High Shoulders Facing Outward
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6. Pack the inboard joint with the joint grease included in the new driveshaft set.
Grease quantity
Inboard joint: 150-160 g (5.3-5.6 oz)
Fig. 32: Packing Inboard Joint With Joint Grease

7. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft, and note these items:
Reinstall the inboard joint onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (A) on
the inboard joint and the rollers.
Hold the driveshaft so the inboard joint is pointing up to prevent it from
falling off.
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Fig. 33: Fitting Inboard Joint Onto Driveshaft By Aligning Marks

8. Install the boot bands.

For the double loop type, go to step 13. (Boot band replacement only)
For the low profile type, go to step 9.
9. Install the new low profile band (A) onto the boot (B), then hook the tab (C) of
the band.
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Fig. 34: Installing Low Profile Band Onto Boot

10. Close the hook portion of the band with commercially available boot band
pincers (A), then hook the tabs (B) of the band.
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Fig. 35: Closing Hook Portion Of Band

11. Install the boot band on the other end of the boot, and repeat steps 9 through
10.
12. Adjust the inboard joint until the rollers are in the middle of the joint.
13. Fit the boot ends onto the driveshaft and the inboard joint, then install the new
double loop band (A) onto the boot.
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Fig. 36: Installing Double Loop Band Onto Boot

14. Pull up the slack in the band by hand.

15. Mark a position (A) on the band 10-14 mm (0.4-0.6 in.) from the clip (B).
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Fig. 37: Marking Position On Band

16. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the commercially
available boot band tool KD-3191 or equivalent (A), and into the slot on the
winding mandrel (B).
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Fig. 38: Threading Free End Of Band Through nose Section Of Boot Band
17. Place a wrench on the winding mandrel of the boot band tool, and tighten the
band until the marked spot (C) on the band meets the edge of the clip.
18. Lift up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees to the
clip. Center-punch the clip, then fold over the remaining tail onto the clip.
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Fig. 39: Lifting Up Boot Band Tool To Ben Free End Of Band 90 Degrees
To Clip
19. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess free end of the band to leave
a 5-10 mm (0.2-0.4 in.) tail protruding from the clip.
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Fig. 40: Unwinding Boot Band Tool

20. Bend the band end (A) by tapping it down with a hammer.
NOTE: Make sure the band and clip do not interfere with
anything on the vehicle and the band does not
move.
Remove any grease remaining on the surrounding
surfaces.
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Fig. 41: Bending Band End By Tapping With Hammer

21. Repeat steps 13 through 20 for the band on the other end of the boot.
22. Install the new set ring.
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Fig. 42: Installing Set Ring

OUTBOARD JOINT SIDE
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the outboard boot.
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Fig. 43: Wrapping Splines With Vinyl Tape

2. Install the new ear clamp bands (B) and outboard boot, then remove the vinyl
tape. Be careful not to damage the outboard boot.
3. Install the new stop ring in the driveshaft groove (A).
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Fig. 44: Installing Stop Ring In Driveshaft Groove

4. Insert the driveshaft (A) into the outboard joint (B) until the stop ring (C) is
close to the joint.
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Fig. 45: Installing Driveshaft Into Outboard Joint

5. To completely seat the outboard joint, pick up the driveshaft and joint, and
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drop them from about 10 cm (4 in.) onto a hard surface. Do not use a hammer
as excessive force may damage the driveshaft. Be careful not to damage the
threaded section (A) of the outboard joint.
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Fig. 46: Identifying Threaded Section Of Outboard Joint

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6. Check the alignment of the paint mark (A) with the outboard joint end (B).
Fig. 47: Checking Alignment Of Paint Mark With Outboard Joint End
7. Pack the outboard joint (A) with the joint grease included in the new joint boot
set.
Grease quantity
Outboard joint: 140-150 g (4.9-5.3 oz)

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Fig. 48: Packing Outboard Joint With Joint Grease

8. Adjust the length of the driveshafts as shown in Fig. 49 , then adjust the boots
to halfway between full compression and full extension. Make sure the ends of
the boots seat in the groove of the driveshaft and joint.
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Fig. 49: Adjusting Length Of Driveshaft

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9. Fit the boot (A) ends onto the driveshaft (B) and outboard joint (C).
Fig. 50: Fitting Boot Ends Onto Driveshaft And Outboard Joint
10. Close the ear portion (A) of the band with commercially available boot band
pincers Kent-Moore J-35910 or equivalent (B).
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Fig. 51: Closing Ear Portion Of Band

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11. Check the clearance between the closed ear portion of the band. If the
clearance is not within the standard, close the ear portion of the band farther.
Fig. 52: Checking Clearance Between Closed Ear Portion Of Band

12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the band on the other end of the boot.
DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION
1. Install a new set ring in the set ring groove of the driveshaft (left driveshaft).
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Fig. 53: Installing Set Ring In Set Ring Groove Of Driveshaft (Left
Driveshaft)
2. Apply 0.5-1.0 g (0.02-0.04 oz) of specified grease to the whole splined surface
(A) of the right driveshaft. After applying grease, remove the grease from the
splined grooves at intervals of 2-3 splines and from the set ring groove (B) so
that air can bleed from the intermediate shaft.
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Fig. 54: Applying Grease To Splined Surface Of Right Driveshaft

3. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with
solvent or brake cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Insert the inboard end
(A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) or intermediate shaft (C) until the
new set ring (D) locks in the groove (E).
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Fig. 55: Inserting Inboard End Of Driveshaft Into Differential Or

Intermediate Shaft
4. Install the outboard joint (A) into the front hub (B).
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Fig. 56: Installing Outboard Joint Into Front Hub

5. Install the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). Wipe off the grease before
tightening the nut at the ball joint. Torque the new castle nut (C) to the lower
torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the
pin hole. Do not align the nut by loosening it.
NOTE: Make sure the ball joint boot is not damaged or

cracked.
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Fig. 57: Installing Knuckle Onto Lower Arm With Torque Specification
6. Install the new cotter pin (D) into the pin hole, and bend the cotter pin as
shown.
7. Install the damper fork (A) over the driveshaft and onto the lower arm. Install
the damper in the damper fork so the aligning tab (B) is aligned with the slot in
the damper fork. Loosely install the flange bolt (C).
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Fig. 58: Installing Damper Fork Over Driveshaft And Lower Arm With
Torque Specificaitons
8. Loosely install the flange bolt (D) and a new self-locking nut (E).
9. Install a new spindle nut (A), then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift
to stake the spindle nut shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
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Fig. 59: Installing Spindle Nut With Torque Specifications

10. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the front wheel, then install the
front wheel with the wheel nuts.
11. Turn the front wheel by hand, and make sure there is no interference between
the driveshaft and surrounding parts.
12. Tighten the flange bolts and the self-locking nut with the vehicle's weight on
the damper.
13. Refill the transmission with recommended transmission fluid:
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14. Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary, refer to WHEEL
ALIGNMENT .
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT REMOVAL
1. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug, use a new washer:
2. Remove the right driveshaft (see DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL).

3. Remove the exhaust pipe A (see step 40 in ENGINE REMOVAL ).
4. Remove the rear warm up three way catalytic converter (rear WU-TWC)
bracket (A) and heat shield (B).
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Fig. 60: Identifying Rear WU-TWC Bracket And Heat Shield

5. Remove the flange bolt (A) and two dowel bolts (B).
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Fig. 61: Identifying Flange Bolt And Dowel Bolts

6. Remove the intermediate shaft (A) from the differential. Hold the intermediate
shaft horizontally until it is clear of the differential to prevent damage to the
differential oil seal (B).
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Fig. 62: Identifying Intermediate Shaft From Differential

INTERMEDIATE SHAFT DISASSEMBLY

Oil seal driver 07947-SB00100
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Half shaft base 07NAF-SR30101

1. Remove the set ring (A), outer seal (B), and external snap ring (C).
Fig. 63: Identifying Set Ring, Outer Seal, And External Snap Ring
2. Press the intermediate shaft (A) out of the intermediate shaft bearing (B) using
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a press. Be careful not to damage the metal rings (C) on the intermediate shaft
during disassembly.
Fig. 64: Pressing Intermediate Shaft Out Of Intermediate Shaft Bearing

Using Press
3. Remove the internal snap ring.
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Fig. 65: Identifying Internal Snap Ring

4. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) out of the bearing support (B) using
the special tools and a press.
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Fig. 66: Pressing Intermediate Shaft Bearing Out Of Bearing Support

Using Special Tools And Press
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT REASSEMBLY
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Fig. 67: Exploded View Of Intermediate Shaft With Torque Specifications

Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
Attachment, 35 mm I.D. 07746-0030400
Oil seal driver 07GAD-PH70201
NOTE: Refer to Fig. 67 as needed during this procedure.
1. Clean the disassembled parts with solvent, and dry them with compressed air.
Do not wash the rubber parts with solvent.
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2. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) into the bearing support (B) using the
special tools and a press.
Fig. 68: Pressing Intermediate Shaft Bearing Into Bearing Support

3. Install, then seat the internal snap ring in the groove of the bearing support.
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Fig. 69: Seating Internal Snap Ring In Groove Of Bearing Support

4. Press the intermediate shaft (A) into the shaft bearing (B) using the special tool
and a press.
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Fig. 70: Pressing Intermediate Shaft Into Shaft Bearing Using Special Tool
And Press
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5. Install, then seat the external snap ring (A) in the groove of the intermediate
shaft (B).
Fig. 71: Seating External Snap Ring In Groove Of Intermediate Shaft

6. Install the outer seal (A) into the bearing support (B) using the special tool and
a press.
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Fig. 72: Identifying Outer Seal Into Bearing Support Using Special Tool
And Press
7. Install the set ring.
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Fig. 73: Identifying Set Ring

INTERMEDIATE SHAFT INSTALLATION
1. Use solvent or brake cleaner to thoroughly clean the areas where the
intermediate shaft (A) contacts the transmission (differential), and dry them
with compressed air. Insert the intermediate shaft assembly into the
differential. Hold the intermediate shaft horizontally to prevent damage to the
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Fig. 74: Using Solvent Or Brake Cleaner To Clean Intermediate Shaft

Contacts Transmission (Differential)
2. Install the flange bolt (A) and two dowel bolts (B).
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Fig. 75: Identifying Flange Bolt And Dowel Bolts With Torque
Specifications
3. Install the heat shield (A) and rear warm up three way catalytic converter (rear
WU-TWC) bracket (B).
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Fig. 76: Identifying Heat Shield And Rear WU-TWC Bracket With
Torque Specifications
4. Install the exhaust pipe A (see step 28 in ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
5. Install the right driveshaft (see DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION).
6. Refill the transmission fluid.
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2003-07 DRIVELINE/AXLE Driveline/Axle - Accord
2003-07 DRIVELINE/AXLE
Driveline/Axle - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fig. 1: View Of Special Service Tools And Description Chart

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Fig. 2: Identifying Driveline/Axle

DRIVESHAFT INSPECTION
1. Check the inboard boot (A) and the outboard boot (B) on the driveshaft (C) for
cracks, damage, leaking grease, and loose boot bands (D). If any damage is
found, replace the boot and boot bands.
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Fig. 3: Inspecting Inboard Boot And Outboard Boot On Driveshaft

2. Check the driveshaft for cracks and damage. If any damage is found, replace
the driveshaft.
3. Check the inboard joint (E) and the out board joint (F) for cracks and damage.
If any damage is found, replace the inboard joint or the outboard joint as an
assembly.
4. Hold the inboard joint and turn the front wheel by hand, then make sure the
joint is not excessively loose. If necessary, replace the inboard joint or the
outboard joint as an assembly.
DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift.

3. Lift up the locking tab (A) on the spindle nut (B), then remove the nut.
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Fig. 4: Removing Wheel Nuts And Front Wheels With Torque

Specifications
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4. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer:
Manual transmission (see TRANSMISSION FLUID INSPECTION
AND REPLACEMENT )
5. Separate the front stabilizer link from the lower arm (see STABILIZER LINK
REPLACEMENT ).
6. Remove the self-locking nut (A), 12 mm flange bolt (B), and 10 mm flange
bolt (C), then remove the damper fork (D).
Fig. 5: Removing Damper Fork

7. Remove the cotter pin form the lower arm ball joint castle nut, and remove the
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nut, then separate the ball joint from the lower arm using the ball joint thread
protector and remover (see KNUCKLE/HUB REPLACEMENT ).

joint thread protector onto the threads of the ball
joint.
8. Pull the knuckle outward, and remove the outboard joint from the front wheel
hub using a plastic hammer.
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Fig. 6: Removing Outboard Joint From Front Wheel

9. A/T model: Remove the heat shield. ).
Fig. 7: Removing Heat Shield (A/T Model)

10. Left driveshaft: Pry the inboard joint (A) from the transmission housing with a
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2007 Honda Accord
prybar. Remove the driveshaft as an assembly.
NOTE: Do not pull on the driveshaft (B), or the inboard joint

may come apart. Pull the driveshaft straight out to
avoid damaging the oil seal.
Fig. 8: Prying Inboard Joint From Differential Case (Left Driveshaft)

11. Right driveshaft: Drive the inboard joint (A) off of the intermediate shaft using
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2007 Honda Accord
a drift and hammer (M/T model). Pry the inboard joint (B) from the
transmission housing with a prybar (A/T model). Remove the driveshaft as an
assembly.
NOTE: Do not pull on the driveshaft (C), or the inboard joint

may come apart. Pull the driveshaft straight out to
avoid damaging the oil seal.
M/T model:
Fig. 9: Removing Intermediate Shaft Inboard Joint (Right Driveshaft M/T

Model)
A/T model:
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Fig. 10: Prying Inboard Joint From Differential Case (Right Driveshaft
A/T Model)
DRIVESHAFT DISASSEMBLY

Slide hammer, 5/8"-18 UNF, commercially available
Boot band pliers, Kent-Moore J-35910 or equivalent, commercially available
Puller, commercially available.
INBOARD JOINT SIDE
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1. Remove the set ring from the inboard joint.
Fig. 11: Removing Set Ring From Inboard Joint

2. Remove the boot bands. Be careful not to damage the boot and dynamic
damper.
If the boot band is a welded type (A), cut the boot band.
If the boot band is a double loop type (B), lift up the band end (C), and
push it into the clip (D).
If the boot band is a low profile type (E), pinch the boot band using
commercially available boot pliers (F).
Welded Type
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Fig. 12: Removing Boot Bands (Welded Type)

Double Loop Type
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Fig. 13: Removing Boot Bands (Double Loop Type)

Low Profile Type
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Fig. 14: Removing Boot Bands (Low Profile Type)

3. Make a mark (A) on each roller (B) and inboard joint (C) to identify the
locations of rollers and grooves in the inboard joint. Then remove the inboard
joint on the shop towel (D). Be careful not to drop the rollers when separating
them from the inboard joint.
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Fig. 15: Placing Mark On Roller And Inboard Joint

4. Make a mark (A) on the rollers (B) and spider (C) to identify the locations of
the rollers on the spider, then remove the rollers.
NOTE: Do not engrave or scribe mark on the rolling

surface.
If necessary, use a commercially available puller.
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Fig. 16: Placing Marks On Rollers And Spider

5. Remove the circlip (D).

6. Mark the spider and driveshaft (E) to identify the position of the spider on the
shaft.
7. Remove the spider.
boot.
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9. Remove the inboard boot. Be careful not to damage the boot.

OUTBOARD JOINT SIDE
1. Remove the boot bands (A). Lift up the three tabs (B) with a screwdriver. Be
careful not to damage the boot and dynamic damper.
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Fig. 18: Lifting Boot Bands Tabs

2. Slide the outboard boot (A) partially to the inboard joint side. Be careful not to
damage the boot.
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Fig. 19: Sliding Outboard Boot

3. Wipe off the grease to expose the driveshaft and the outboard joint inner race.
4. Make a mark (A) on the driveshaft (B) at the same level as the outboard joint
rim (C).
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Fig. 20: Placing Mark On Driveshaft And Outboard Joint End

5. Securely clamp the driveshaft in a bench vise with a shop towel.

A/T model: 07XAC-001010A
M/T model: 07XAC-001020A
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6. Remove the outboard joint (A) using the threaded adapter (B) and a
commercially available 5/8"-18 UNF slide hammer (C).
7. Remove the driveshaft from the bench vise.
8. Remove the stop ring from the driveshaft.
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Fig. 22: Removing Stop Ring From Driveshaft

boot.
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10. Remove the outboard boot. Be careful not to damage the boot.
DYNAMIC DAMPER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the inboard joint (see Inboard Joint Side ).

2. Remove the dynamic damper bands (see step 2 ).
If the band is a welded type, cut the band.
If the band is a double loop type, lift up the band end, and push it into the
clip.
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If the band is a low profile type, pinch the band using commercially

available boot band pliers.
3. Remove the dynamic damper.
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4. Adjust the position of the new dynamic damper to these measurements.
NOTE: Be careful not to swap the dynamic dampers. The right

and left dynamic dampers are different.
M/T model right driveshaft: 275-281 mm (10.83-11.06 in.)
Fig. 25: Identifying Dynamic Damper Adjusting Dimension (M/T Model)

A/T model right driveshaft: 274-278 mm (10.79-10.94 in.)
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Fig. 26: Identifying Dynamic Damper Adjusting Dimension (A/T Model)

M/T model left driveshaft: 275-281 mm (10.83-11.06 in.)

A/T model left driveshaft: 283-287 mm (11.14-11.30 in.)
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Fig. 27: Identifying Dynamic Damper Adjusting Dimension (A/T And M/T
Model)
5. Install the dynamic damper band (see step 10 ).

6. Install the inboard joint (see step 1 ).
DRIVESHAFT REASSEMBLY
EXPLODED VIEW
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Fig. 28: Exploded View Of Driveshaft Assembly Components

Boot band tool, KD-3191 or equivalent, commercially available
Boot band pliers, Kent-Moore J-35910 or equivalent, commercially available
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2007 Honda Accord
NOTE: Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW as needed during this

procedure.
INBOARD JOINT SIDE
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the inboard boot.
Fig. 29: Wrapping Inboard Joint Splines With Vinyl Tape

2. Install the inboard boot onto the driveshaft, then remove the vinyl tape. Be
careful not to damage the inboard boot.
3. Install the spider (A) onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (B) you made
on the spider and the end of the driveshaft.
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Fig. 30: Installing Spider Onto Driveshaft

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4. Install a new circlip (C) into the driveshaft groove. Always rotate the circlip in
its groove to make sure it is fully seated.
5. Fit the rollers (A) onto the spider (B) with their high shoulders facing outward,
and note these items:
Reinstall the rollers in their original positions on the spider by aligning the
marks (C) you made.
Hold the driveshaft pointed up to prevent the rollers from falling off.
Fig. 31: Fitting Rollers Onto Spider

6. Pack the inboard joint with the joint grease included in the new boot set.
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Grease quantity
Inboard joint:
A/T model: 130-140 g (4.6-4.9 oz)
M/T model: 150-160 g (5.3-5.6 oz)
Fig. 32: Packing Inboard Joint With Joint Grease

7. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft, and note these items:
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Reinstall the inboard joint onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (A)
you made on the inboard joint and the rollers.
Hold the driveshaft so the inboard joint is pointing up to prevent it from
falling off.
Fig. 33: Fitting Inboard Joint Onto Driveshaft

8. Fit the boot (A) ends onto the driveshaft (B) and the inboard joint (C).
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Fig. 34: Locating Driveshaft And Inboard Joint
9. Adjust the length of the driveshafts to the figure as shown, then adjust the
boots to halfway between full compression and full extension.
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Fig. 35: Identifying M/T Model

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Fig. 36: Identifying A/T Model

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10. Install the boot bands.

For the low profile type, got to step11.
For the double loop type, go to step 14 (Boot band replacement only.)
11. Install the new low profile band (A) onto the boot (B), then hook the tab (C) of
the band.
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Fig. 37: Installing Low Profile Band Onto Boot

12. Close the hook portion of the band with commercially available boot band
pliers (A), then hook the tabs (B) of the band.
Fig. 38: Closing Hook Portion Of Band

13. Install the boot band on the other end of the boot, and repeat steps 11 through
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12.
14. Fit the boot ends onto the driveshaft and the inboard joint, then install the new
double loop band (A) onto the boot (B).
NOTE: Pass the end of the new double loop band through the
clip (C) twice in the direction of the forward rotation of
the driveshaft.
Fig. 39: Twicing In Direction Of Forward Rotation Of Driveshaft
15. Pull up the slack in the band by hand.

16. Mark position (A) on the band 10-14 mm (0.4-0.6 in.) from the clip (B).
Fig. 40: Identifying Mark Position On Band From Clip
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17. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the commercially
available boot band tool (A), and into the slot on the winding mandrel (B).
Fig. 41: Tightening Band Until Marked Spot
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Fig. 42: Threading Free End Of Band And Into Slot On Winding Mandrel
18. Using a wrench of the winding mandrel of the boot band tool, tighten the band
until the marked spot (C) on the band meets the edge of the clip.
19. Lift up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees to the
clip. Center-punch the clip, then fold over the remaining tail onto the clip.
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Fig. 43: Lifting Up Boot Band Tool To Bend
20. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess free end of the band to leave
a 5-10 mm (0.2-0.4 in.) tail protruding from the clip.
Fig. 44: Identifying Pand Tail Protruding

21. Bend the band end (A) by tapping it down with a hammer.
NOTE: Make sure the band and clip do not interfere with
anything on the vehicle and the band does not
move.
Remove any grease remaining on the surrounding
surfaces.
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Fig. 45: Tapping Band
22. Repeat steps 13 through 20 for the band on the other end of the boot.
OUTBOARD JOINT SIDE
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the outboard boot.
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Fig. 46: Wrapping Outboard Joint Splines With Vinyl Tape

2. Install the new ear clamp bands (B) and outboard boot, then remove the vinyl
tape. Be careful not to damage the outboard boot.
3. Install the new stop ring in the driveshaft groove (A).
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Fig. 47: Installing Stop Ring In Driveshaft Groove

4. Pack about half of the grease included in the new outboard boot set into the
driveshaft hole in the outboard joint.
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5. Insert the driveshaft (A) into the outboard joint (B) until the stop ring (C) is
close to the joint.
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Fig. 49: Inserting Driveshaft Into Outboard Joint

6. To completely seat the outboard joint, pick up the driveshaft and joint, and tap
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or hit them from a height of about 10 cm (4 in.) onto a hard surface.
NOTE: Do not use a hammer as excessive force may damage

the driveshaft. Be careful not to damage the threaded
section (A) of the outboard joint
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Fig. 50: Seating Outboard Joint

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7. Check the alignment of the paint mark (A) with the outboard joint end (B).
Fig. 51: Checking Alignment Of Paint Mark With Outboard Joint End
8. Pack the outboard joint (A) with the remaining joint grease included in the new
out board boot set.
Grease quantity
Outboard joint:
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A/T model: 105-115 g (3.7-4.1 oz)

M/T model: 140-150 g (4.9-5.3 oz)

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9. Fit the boot (A) ends onto the driveshaft (B) and outboard joint (C).
Fig. 53: Fitting Boot Ends Onto Driveshaft And Outboard Joint
10. Close the ear portion (A) of the band with commercially available boot band
pliers (B).
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Fig. 54: Closing Band Ear Portion

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11. Check the clearance between the closed ear portion of the band. If the
clearance is not within the standard, close the ear portion of the band tighter.
Fig. 55: Identifying Clearance Between Band Closed Ear Portion

12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the band on the other end of the boot.
DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION
NOTE: Before starting installation, make sure the mating surfaces

of the joint and the splined section are not dusty or dirty.
1. Apply about 5g (0.18 oz) moly 60 paste (P/N08734-0001) to the contact area
of the out board joint and the front wheel bearing.
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NOTE: The paste helps to prevent noise and vibration.
Fig. 56: Identifying Area Applying Grease
2. Install a new set ring in the set ring groove of the driveshaft.
Fig. 57: Installing Set Ring In Driveshaft Set Ring Groove (Left
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Driveshaft)
3. Apply 0.5-1.0 g (0.02-0.04 oz) of grease to the whole splined surface (A) of the
right driveshaft. After applying grease, remove the grease from the splined
grooves at intervals of 2-3 splines and from the set ring groove (B) so that air
can bleed from the intermediate shaft.
Fig. 58: Locating Grease Applying Point

4. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with
solvent or brake cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
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NOTE: Do not wash the rubber parts with solvent.
5. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) or
intermediate shaft (C) until the new set ring (D) locks in the groove (E).
NOTE: Insert the driveshaft horizontally to prevent damaging

the differential oil seal.
Fig. 59: Inserting Inboard End Of Driveshaft Into Differential

6. Install the outboard joint (A) into the front hub (B).
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Fig. 60: Installing Outboard Joint Into Front Hub

7. A/T model: Install the heat shield .
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Fig. 61: Installing Heat Shield (A/T Model) With Torque Specifications
8. Clean off any grease contamination from the ball joint tapered section and
threads, then install the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). Be careful not to
damage the ball joint boot (C). Wipe off the grease before tightening the nut
(D) to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align
the slot with the ball joint pin hole.
NOTE: Make sure the ball joint boot is not damaged or

cracked.
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Do not align the nut by loosening it.
Fig. 62: Installing Knuckle Onto Lower Arm With Torque

Specifications
9. Install the new cotter pin (E) into the ball joint pin hole, and bend the cotter pin
as shown in Fig. 63.
the damper in the damper fork so the aligning tab (B) is aligned with the slot in
the damper fork. Loosely install the flange bolt (C).
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Fig. 63: Installing Damper Fork Over Driveshaft And Onto Lower Arm
With Torque Specifications
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Fig. 64: Connecting Front Stabilizer Link With Torque Specifications

11. Loosely install the flange bolt (D) and a new self-locking nut (E).
12. Connect the front stabilizer link (A) to the lower arm (see step 4 in
STABILIZER LINK REPLACEMENT ).
13. Apply small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the new spindle nut
(A).
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Fig. 65: Removing Wheel Nuts And Front Wheels With Torque
Specifications
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14. Install a new spindle nut, then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to
stake the spindle nut shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
15. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the front wheel, then install the
front wheel.
16. Turn the front wheel by hand, and make sure there is no interference between
the driveshaft and surrounding parts.
17. Tighten the flange bolt and the self-locking nut with the vehicle's weight on the
damper.
18. Refill the transmission with recommended transmission fluid:
AND REPLACEMENT )
19. Lower the vehicle on a lift.

20. Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary (see WHEEL
ALIGNMENT ).
21. Test drive the vehicle.
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT REMOVAL
M/T MODEL
1. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer (see
TRANSMISSION FLUID INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the right driveshaft (see Driveshaft Removal ).
3. Remove the flange bolt (A) and two dowel bolts (B).
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Fig. 66: Removing Flange Bolt And Dowel Bolts

4. Remove the intermediate shaft (A) from the differential. Hold the intermediate
shaft horizontal until it is clear of the differential to prevent damage to the
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Fig. 67: Removing Intermediate Shaft From Differential

INTERMEDIATE SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
Half shaft base 07NAF-SR30101 or 07NAF-SR34101

Oil seal driver 07947-SB00100
M/T MODEL
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1. Remove the set ring (A), outer seal (B), and external snap ring (C).
Fig. 68: Removing Set Ring, Outer Seal And External Snap Ring
2. Press the intermediate shaft (A) out of the intermediate shaft bearing (B) using
a press. Be careful not to damage the metal rings (C) on the intermediate shaft
during disassembly.
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Fig. 69: Removing Intermediate Shaft From Intermediate Shaft Bearing

3. Remove the internal snap ring.
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Fig. 70: Removing Internal Snap Ring

4. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) out of the bearing support (B) using
the oil seal driver (C), half shaft base (D) and a press.
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Fig. 71: Removing Intermediate Shaft Bearing From Bearing Support

INTERMEDIATE SHAFT REASSEMBLY
EXPLODED VIEW
M/T model:
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Fig. 72: Exploded View Of Intermediate Shaft Assembly Components (M/T

Model) With Torque Specifications
Oil seal driver 07GAD-PH70201

Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
Attachment, 35 mm I.D. 07746-0030400
Driver 07749-0010000
M/T MODEL

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procedure.
2. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) into the bearing support (B) using the
52 x 55 mm attachment (C), driver (D) and a press.
Fig. 73: Inserting Intermediate Shaft Bearing Into Bearing Support

3. Seat the internal snap ring in the groove of the bearing support.
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Fig. 74: Installing Internal Snap Ring In Groove Of Bearing Support

4. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) into the shaft bearing (B) using the 35
mm I.D. attachment (C) and a press.
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Fig. 75: Inserting Intermediate Shaft Bearing Into Shaft Bearing

5. Seat the external snap ring (A) in the groove of the intermediate shaft (B).
Fig. 76: Seating External Snap Ring In Intermediate Shaft Groove

6. Install the new outer seal (A) into the bearing support (B) using the oil seal
driver (C) and a press.
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Fig. 77: Installing Outer Seal Into Bearing Support

7.
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT INSTALLATION
M/T MODEL
1. Install the set ring.
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Fig. 78: Installing Set Ring

2. Clean the areas where the intermediate shaft contacts the differential
thoroughly with solvent or brake cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
3. Insert the intermediate shaft assembly (A) into the differential until the set ring
locks in the groove.
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NOTE: Insert the intermediate shaft horizontally to prevent

damage to the differential oil seal (B).
Fig. 79: Inserting Intermediate Shaft Assembly Into Differential (M/T

Model)
4. Install the flange bolt (A) and two dowel bolts (B).
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Fig. 80: Installing Flange Bolt And Dowel Bolts With Torque
Specifications
5. Install the right driveshaft (see Driveshaft Installation).

6. Refill the transmission fluid (see TRANSMISSION FLUID INSPECTION
AND REPLACEMENT
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2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE EGR-System - Accord (V6)
EGR-System - Accord (V6)
Fig. 1: Identifying EGR-System Component

DTC CODES
DTC CHART
DTC Description
DTC P0401 EGR Insufficient Flow
DTC P0404 EGR Control Circuit Range/
Performance Problem
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2007 Honda Accord
DTC P0406 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit

High Voltage
DTC P2413 EGR System Malfunction
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0401: EGR INSUFFICIENT FLOW
NOTE: Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-
board snapshot, and review the general troubleshooting
information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).

4. Do the EGR TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Is the result OK?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 7.
Engine coolant temperature above 158F(70C)
Vehicle speed at 25 mph (40 km/h) or more, and engine speed between
1,100 rpm and 3,000 rpm
During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5 seconds
HDS.
YES - Remove the intake manifold cover (see INTAKE MANIFOLD

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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ), and clean the intake manifold,

and EGR ports with throttle plate and induction cleaner, then go to step 9.
recheck.
8. Replace the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT).
PROCEDURE ).
1,100 rpm and 3,000 rpm

Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated OK?
YES - If DTC P0401 is indicated, check for poor connections or loose

terminals at the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM. If the connections are OK,
go to step 15. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to
the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO - Go to step 14.
HDS.

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NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step 1 and recheck. If the

screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes on. If the
screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 12 and recheck.
15. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM UPDATING AND
SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING ).
1,100 rpm and 3,000 rpm


terminals at the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1. If any
other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTCs
troubleshooting.
NO - If the ECM/PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the
ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM (see
ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ).
DTC P0404: EGR CONTROL CIRCUIT RANGE/ PERFORMANCE PROBLEM
INFORMATION ).

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Is the result OK?
YES - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Clean any carbon

build-up on the EGR valve with throttle plate and induction cleaner.
NO - Go to step 5.
6. Disconnect the EGR valve 6P connector.
7. At the sensor side, measure resistance between EGR valve 6P connector
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Fig. 2: Measuring Resistance EGR Valve 6P Connector Terminals No. 1

And No. 2
Is there 100 k ohms or more?
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NO - Go to step 8.
8. Measure resistance between EGR valve 6P connector terminals No. 1 and No.
3.
Fig. 3: Measuring Resistance Between EGR Valve 6P Connector

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NO - Go to step 9.
9. Check for continuity between EGR valve 6P connector terminal No. 6 and
body ground.
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Fig. 4: Checking Continuity Between EGR Valve 6P Connector Terminal

And Body Ground
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the EGR valve and G101, then go
to step 27.
11. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P).
12. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal B5 and body
ground.
Fig. 5: Checking Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal B5

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And Body Ground

YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B5) and the EGR
valve, then go to step 27.
NO - Go to step 13.
13. Connect EGR valve 6P connector terminal No. 4 to body ground with a jumper
wire.
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Fig. 6: Connecting EGR Valve 6P Connector Terminal To Body Ground

With Jumper Wire
ground.
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And Body Ground

NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (B5) and the EGR
15. Remove the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT).
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16. Clean the intake manifold EGR port with throttle plate and induction cleaner.
Also, clean the passage inside the EGR valve with throttle plate and induction
cleaner.
17. Install the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT).
18. Reconnect the EGR valve 6P connector.
19. Reconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P).
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Go to step 25.
PROCEDURE ).
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terminals at the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM. If the connections and
terminals are OK, go to step 35. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs
are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO - Go to step 34.
HDS.

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step 1. and recheck. If the
know-good ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM UPDATING AND

other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's
troubleshooting.
DTC P0406: EGR VALVE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE
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INFORMATION ).

2. Check the EGR VLS in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is 4.88 V or higher indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor
connections or loose terminals at the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM.
6. Measure voltage between EGR valve 6P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3.
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Fig. 8: Measuring Voltage Between EGR Valve 6P Connector Terminals

No. 2 And No. 3
Is there about 5 V?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 7.
7. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals D12 and D10.
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Fig. 9: Measuring Voltage Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminals D12

And D10
Is there about 5 V?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM
(D10), then go to step 10.
NO - Go to step 14.
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PROCEDURE ).

troubleshooting.
NO - Troubleshooting is complete.

troubleshooting.
DTC P2413: EGR SYSTEM MALFUNCTION
INFORMATION ).
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Is the result OK?

YES - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor
NO - Go to step 5.
Is about 0 V indicated?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 19.
11. Measure voltage between EGR valve 6P connector terminal No. 3 and body
ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 10: Measuring Voltage Between EGR Valve 6P Connector Terminal

And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 12.
12. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal D12 and body
ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 11: Measuring Voltage Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal D12

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord
Is there about 5 V?
(D12), then go to step 44.
NO - Go to step 51.
15. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector D (17P).
16. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal D11 and body
ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 12: Checking Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal

D11 And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (D11) and the
EGR valve, then go to step 44.
NO - Go to step 17.
wire.

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2007 Honda Accord
With Jumper Wire

18. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal D11 and body
ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 14: Check For Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal

D11 And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (D11) and the EGR
20. If not already done, disconnect the EGR valve 6P connector.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there continuity or resistance of 100 k ohms or more?

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2007 Honda Accord
NO - Go to step 22.
3.

Terminals
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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Go to step 23.
23. if not already done, jump the SCS line with the HDS.
24. If not already done, disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P).
ground.
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2007 Honda Accord

And Body Ground
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (B5) and the EGR
NO - Go to step 26.
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2007 Honda Accord
wire.

With Jumper Wire
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2007 Honda Accord
ground.

And Body Ground

NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (B5) and the EGR
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2007 Honda Accord

28. Remove the jumper wire from the EGR valve 6P connector.
body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord

And Body Ground

to step 44.
31. Connect the battery positive terminal to EGR valve 6P connector terminal No.
4 with a jumper wire.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 21: Connecting Battery Positive Terminal To EGR Valve 6P

Connector Terminal With Jumper Wire
32. Start the engine and let it idle, then connect the battery negative terminal to
EGR valve 6P connector terminal No. 6 with a jumper wire.
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2007 Honda Accord
Does the engine stall or run rough?

NO - Go to step 33.
34. Remove the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT).
Also, clean the passage inside the EGR valve with throttle plate and induction
cleaner.
36. Install the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT).
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Go to step 42.
PROCEDURE ).

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2007 Honda Accord

troubleshooting.
NO - Go to step 50.
HDS.

NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, go to step 1 and recheck. If the
known-good ECM/PCM.

YES - lf DTC P2413 is indicated, check for poor connections or loose
other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTCs
troubleshooting.
NO - Go to step 56.
56. Monitor the OBD STSTUS for DTC P2413 in the DTCs MENU with the HDS.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - If the ECM/PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the

ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the origional ECM/PCM. If any other
Temporary DTCs or DTCs were indicated in step 55, go to the indicated DTCs
troubleshooting.
NO - If the screen indicated FAILED, check for poor connections or loose

terminals at the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM. If the ECM/PCM was updated,
substitute a known-good ECM/PCM. If the screen indicates EXECUTING,
keep driving until a result comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF
CONDITION, go to step 54.
EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the ignition coil cover (see step 1 IGNITION COIL

2. Disconnect the EGR valve 6P connector (A).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 22: Disconnecting EGR Valve 6P Connector

3. Remove the EGR valve (B).
4. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new gasket (C).
5. Install the ignition coil cover.
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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE EGR System - Accord
EGR System - Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying EGR System Component Location Index

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0401: EGR INSUFFICIENT FLOW
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2007 Honda Accord
information (seeGENERAL INFORMATION (EXCEPT

HYBRID & V6) ).

Is the result OK?

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 7.
1,100 and 3,000 rpm
HDS.

YES - Remove the EGR plate; '03-05 models (see REMOVAL ('03-05
MODELS) ), '06-07 modelsREMOVAL ('06--07 MODELS) and clean
the intake manifold port with throttle plate and induction cleaner, then go
to step 9.
this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the EGR valve
and the ECM/PCM. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving
until a result comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go
to step 5 and recheck.
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2007 Honda Accord
8. Replace the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT ).

PROCEDURE ).
1,100 and 3,000 rpm

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the EGR valve
and the ECM/PCM. If the connections are OK, go to step 15.
NO - Go to step 14.
HDS.

troubleshooting.
terminals at the EGR the valve and the ECM/PCM, go to step 1. If the
known-good ECM/PCM (see UPDATING THE ECM/PCM ,SUBSTITUTE
THE ECM/PCM ).
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2007 Honda Accord

1,100 and 3,000 rpm
and the ECM/PCM. If the ECM/PCM was updated, substitute a known-
good ECM/PCM (see GENERAL INFORMATION (EXCEPT
HYBRID & V6) ) then go to step 16 above. If the ECM/PCM was
substituted go to step 1.
NO - Go to step 18. ).
HDS.
YES- If the ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM;

'03-05 models (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ), '06-07 models
(seeECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ). If any other Temporary DTCs or
DTCs were indicated in step 17, got the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO- If the screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose
terminals at the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM. If the ECM/PCM was
updated, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (see GENERAL
INFORMATION (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6) ), then go to step 16. If
the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to step 1. If the screen indicates
EXECUTING, keep driving until a result comes on. If the screen indicates
OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 16.
DTC P0404: EGR VALVE CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE PROBLEM
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2007 Honda Accord
information (seeGENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).

Is the result OK?

YES - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Clean any carbon
build-up on the EGR valve with throttle plate and induction cleaner.
NO - Go to step 5.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there 100 kohms or more?
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 8.
3.

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NO - Go to step 9.
body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord

No. 6 And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

to step 27.
ground.

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B16) and the
NO - Go to step 13.
wire.
Fig. 6: Connecting EGR Valve 6P Connector Terminal No. 4 To Body

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2007 Honda Accord
Ground With Jumper Wire

ground.

And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B16) and the EGR
15. Remove the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT ).
17. Install the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT ).
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Go to step 25.
PROCEDURE ).
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2007 Honda Accord

and the ECM/PCM. If the connections are OK, go to step 35.
NO - Go to step 34.
HDS.

troubleshooting.
terminals at the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1. If the
screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 32.
know-good ECM/PCM (see UPDATING THE ECM/PCM ,SUBSTITUTE
THE ECM/PCM ).
Is the DTC P0404 indicated?
good ECM/PCM (see), then go to step 36. If the ECM/PCM was
substituted, go to step1.
NO - Go to step 38.
38. Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P0404 in the DTC's MENU with the
HDS.
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2007 Honda Accord
YES- If the ECM/PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the

ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM; '03-05
models (seeECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ), '06-07 models (see
ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ). If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs
were indicated in step 37, got to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO - If the screen indicate FAILED, check for poor connections or loose
updated, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE
ECM/PCM ), then go to step 3636. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go
to step 1. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result
DTC P0406: EGR VALVE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE
INFORMATION ).

Is 4.88 V or higher indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
6. Measure voltage between EGR valve 6P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 8: Measuring Voltage Between EGR Valve 6P Connector Terminals

No. 2 And No. 3
Is there about 5 V?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 7.
7. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminals A20 and A23.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 9: Measuring Voltage Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminals A20

And A23
Is there about 5 V?
(A23), then go to step 10.
NO - Go to step 14.
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2007 Honda Accord
PROCEDURE ).
and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1.
NO - Troubleshooting is complete. If any other Temporary DTC's or
DTC's are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
16. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software (see UPDATING
THE ECM/PCM ), or substitute a know-good ECM/PCM (see
SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM )
Yes - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the EGR valve and
the ECM/PCM. If the ECM/PCM was updated, substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck. If the
ECM/PCM was substituted, go to step 1
No- If the ECM/PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the
models (seeECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ), '06-07 models (see
are indicated, got to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
DTC P2413: EGR SYSTEM MALFUNCTION
INFORMATION ).
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2007 Honda Accord

Is the result OK?

NO - Go to step 5.
Is about 0 V indicated?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 19.
11. Measure voltage between EGR valve 6P connector terminal No. 3 and body
ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 10: Measuring Voltage Between EGR Valve 6P Connector Terminal

Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 12.
12. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A20 and body
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2007 Honda Accord
ground.
Fig. 11: Measuring Voltage Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal A20

And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?
(A20), then go to step 44.
NO - Go to step 51.
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ground.

B12 And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 17.
wire.

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2007 Honda Accord
ground.

B12 And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord

20. If not already done, disconnect the EGR valve 6P connector.
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2007 Honda Accord

Is there continuity or resistance of 100 kohms or more?
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2007 Honda Accord

NO - Go to step 22.
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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Go to step 23.
23. If not already done, jump the SCS line with the HDS.
24. If not already done, disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P).
ground.
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2007 Honda Accord

B16 And Body Ground
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NO - Go to step 26.
wire.

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2007 Honda Accord
ground.
Fig. 19: Checking For Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector

Terminal B16 And Body Ground
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2007 Honda Accord
28. Remove the jumper wire from the EGR valve 6P connector.
body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord

to step 44.
31. Connect the battery positive terminal to EGR valve 6P connector terminal No.
4 with a jumper wire.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 21: Connecting Battery Positive Terminal To EGR Valve 6P

Connector Terminal No. 4 With Jumper Wire
32. Start the engine and let it idle, then connect the battery negative terminal to
EGR valve 6P connector terminal No. 6 with a jumper wire.
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2007 Honda Accord
Does the engine stall or run rough?

NO - Go to step 33.
34. Remove the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT ).
35. Clean the intake manifold EGR port and the passage inside the EGR valve with
throttle plate and induction cleaner.
36. Install the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT ).
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Go to step 42.
PROCEDURE ).

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2007 Honda Accord
troubleshooting.
NO - Go to step 50.
HDS.
DTCs were indicated in step 49, go to the indicated DTC's
troubleshooting.
terminals at the EGR valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1 and
recheck. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep driving until a result
THE ECM/PCM ), or substitute a known- good ECM/PCM (see
SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ).
55. Check for temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS.
YES- Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the EGR valve and
the ECM/PCM. If the ECM/PCM was updated, substitute a known-food
ECM/PCM (see), then go to step 54. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go
to step 1.
NO- Go to step 56.
HDS.

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2007 Honda Accord
YES- If the ECM/PCM was updated, troubleshooting is complete. If the

models (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ), '06-07 models (see
were indicated in step 55, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO- If the screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose
updated, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (seeHOW TO
SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then go to step 54. If the ECM/PCM
was substituted, go to step 1. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep
driving until a result comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF
CONDITION, go to step 54.
EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the air cleaner (see AIR CLEANER

2. Remove the EGR valve 6P connector (A).
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Fig. 22: Removing EGR Valve 6P Connector

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3. Remove the EGR valve (B).
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new gasket (C).
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2003 Honda Accord DX
2003 HONDA Accord
2003 HONDA
Accord
BUZZERS, RELAYS & TIMERS
BUZZERS, RELAYS & TIMERS LOCATION

Component Component Location
Accessory Power Socket Relay In driver's underdash fuse/relay box.
A/C Compressor Clutch Relay In underhood fuse/relay box.
A/F Sensor Relay In driver's underdash fuse/relay box.
Blower Motor Relay In underhood fuse/relay box.
Condenser Fan Relay In underhood fuse/relay box.
DRL Relay In underhood multi-relay box. See Fig. 7 .
Fan Control Relay In underhood multi-relay box.
Ignition Coil Relay In driver's underdash fuse/relay box.
Moon Roof Close Relay At rear of roof.
Moon Roof Open Relay At rear of roof.
PGM-FI Main Relay 2 In driver's underdash fuse/relay box.
Power Window Relay In driver's underdash fuse/relay box.
Radiator Fan Relay In underhood fuse/relay box.
Rear Window Defogger Relay In underhood fuse/relay box.
Seat Heater Relay Behind glove box. See Fig. 10 .
Starter Cut Relay In driver's underdash fuse/relay box.
Turn Signal/Hazard Relay In driver's underdash fuse/relay box.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES LOCATION

Fuse/Relay Box On left rear corner of engine compartment, attached to
(2.4L) underhood fuse/relay box. See Fig. 7 .
Multi-Relay Box On left rear corner of engine compartment, attached to
(3.0L) underhood fuse/relay box. See Fig. 7 .
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2003 HONDA Accord
Underdash
Behind left kick panel. See Fig. 9 .
Fuse/Relay Box
Underhood On left rear corner of engine compartment, forward of
Fuse/Relay Box strut tower. See Fig. 7 .
CONTROL UNITS
CONTROL UNITS LOCATION

ABS Modulator Unit At left front of engine compartment.
ABS-TCS Control Unit Behind right side of engine compartment.
Audio-HVAC Display Module Behind center of dash. See Fig. 10 .
Cruise Control Unit Behind left side of dash. See Fig. 9 .
ECM/PCM Under middle of dash. See Fig. 10 .
Gauge Control Module Behind instrument cluster. See Fig. 8 .
Immobilizer Control Unit
In steering column cover. See Fig. 8 .
Receiver
Moon Roof Control Unit At rear of roof.
Navigation Unit In trunk, at middle of rear shelf. See Fig. 14 .
OPDS Unit In front passenger's seat back.
Behind center of dash, forward of floor
PCM
console.
SRS Unit Under middle of dash.
Throttle Actuator Control
Under right side of dash. See Fig. 11 .
Module
MOTORS
MOTORS LOCATION
ABS Modulator Unit At left front of engine compartment.
Air Mix Control Motor (Except EX &
Under left side of dash. See Fig. 12 .
LX)
Blower Motor Under right side of dash. See Fig. 10 .
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2003 HONDA Accord
Driver's Air Mix Control Motor (Except

Under left side of dash. See Fig. 12 .
EX & LX)
Front Passenger's Air Mix Control
Under right side of dash. See Fig. 12 .
Motor
Mode Control Motor Behind glove box. See Fig. 12 .
Under headliner, above center of rear
Moon Roof Motor
window.
Behind glove box, on blower unit.
Recirculation Control Motor
See Fig. 12 .
On bottom of windshield washer fluid
Windshield Washer Motor
reservoir.
Windshield Wiper Motor On left side of air scoop.
SENDING UNITS & SENSORS
SENDING UNITS & SENSORS LOCATION

A/F Sensor On exhaust manifold. See Fig. 1 .
At right side of engine compartment. See
APP Sensor
Fig. 11 .
ATF Temperature Sensor On transmission. See Fig. 6 .
CMP Sensor A (2.4L) At right rear of engine. See Fig. 1 .
CMP Sensor B (2.4L) At right rear of engine. See Fig. 1 .
CMP Sensor (3.0L) At left front of engine. See Fig. 5 .
CKP Sensor (2.4L) At left front of engine. See Fig. 2 .
Countershaft Speed Sensor (2.4L) On top left of transaxle. See Fig. 2 .
Countershaft Speed Sensor (3.0L) On top right of transaxle. See Fig. 5 .
Driver's Side Impact Sensor At left "B" pillar.
On right rear of cylinder head. See Fig.
ECT Sensor (2.4L)
2.
ECT Sensor (3.0L) On left rear of engine. See Fig. 4 .
EGR Valve & EGR Valve Position
On rear of intake manifold.
Sensor (2.4L)
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2003 HONDA Accord

On left rear of engine.
Sensor (3.0L)
Behind glove box, in evaporator unit. See
Evaporator Temperature Sensor
Fig. 12 .
Front A/F Sensor (Bank No. 2, In right exhaust bank, before catalytic
Sensor No. 1) converter. See Fig. 5 .
Front Passenger's Side Impact Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Sensor 14 .
Front Secondary HO2S (Bank No. 2, In right exhaust bank, before catalytic
Sensor No. 2) converter. See Fig. 4 .
Under left rear of vehicle, in fuel tank.
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
See Fig. 13 .
IAT Sensor (2.4L) On left rear intake manifold. See Fig. 1 .
On top left rear of intake manifold. See
IAT Sensor (3.0L)
Fig. 4 .
In-Car Temperature Sensor Under middle of dash. See Fig. 8 .
On lower left side of engine, below
Knock Sensor
exhaust manifold.
At left front of engine compartment,
Left Impact Sensor
behind left headlight.
At left side of engine compartment. See
MAF Sensor (2.4L)
Fig. 1 .
Mainshaft Speed Sensor (2.4L) On rear of transaxle. See Fig. 1 .
Mainshaft Speed Sensor (3.0L) On left rear of transaxle. See Fig. 4 .
MAP Sensor (2.4L) At left side of engine. See Fig. 1 .
MAP Sensor (3.0L)
Fig. 5 .
Moon Roof Limit Sensor At rear of roof.
Below center of front bumper. See Fig.
Outside Air Temperature Sensor
7.
Rear A/F Sensor (Bank No. 1, At rear of engine compartment. See Fig.
Sensor No. 1) 4.
Rear Secondary HO2S (Bank No. 1, At rear of engine compartment. See Fig.
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2003 HONDA Accord
Sensor No. 2) 5.
Right Front Impact Sensor At right front of engine compartment.
Secondary HO2S On TWC converter.
Sunlight Sensor On center front of dash. See Fig. 10 .
TP Sensor (2.4L) On throttle body. See Fig. 2 .
TP Sensor/Throttle Actuator (3.0L) On throttle body. See Fig. 4 .
Wheel Speed Sensor (Left Front) On left front suspension knuckle.
Wheel Speed Sensor (Left Rear) On left rear suspension knuckle.
Wheel Speed Sensor (Right Front) On right front suspension knuckle.
On right rear suspension knuckle. See
Wheel Speed Sensor (Right Rear)
Fig. 14 .
SOLENOIDS & SOLENOID VALVES
SOLENOIDS & SOLENOID VALVES LOCATION

A/T Clutch Pressure Control
On left side of transaxle.
Solenoid Valve A (2.4L)
On top rear of transaxle. See Fig. 5 .
Solenoid Valve A (3.0L)
On left side of transaxle. See Fig. 2 .
Solenoid Valve B (2.4L)
On top rear of transaxle. See Fig. 4 .
Solenoid Valve B (3.0L)
Solenoid Valve C (2.4L)
Solenoid Valve C (3.0L)
Cruise Control Actuator At right side of firewall.
EGR Valve & EGR Valve
At rear of engine. See Fig. 2 .
Position Sensor (2.4L)
EGR Valve & EGR Valve
At right front top corner of engine.
Position Sensor (3.0L)
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2003 HONDA Accord
Engine Mount Control Solenoid

On left front of engine. See Fig. 1 .
Valve (2.4L)
Engine Mount Control Solenoid On left rear of engine compartment. See
Valve (3.0L) Fig. 5 .
EVAP Canister Purge Valve On right side of intake manifold. See Fig.
(2.4L) 1.
EVAP Canister Purge Valve
On right side of engine. See Fig. 4 .
(3.0L)
On underside of vehicle, on EVAP control
EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve
canister.
IAC Valve (2.4L) On left side of intake manifold. See Fig. 2 .
IMRC Valve (3.0L) At front of engine. See Fig. 4 .
Shift Control Solenoid Valve A
On top front of transaxle. See Fig. 4 .
(3.0L)
Shift Control Solenoid Valve B
(3.0L)
Shift Control Solenoid Valve C
(3.0L)
Under floor console, on bottom right of gear
Shift Lock Solenoid
selector lever. See Fig. 10 .
Torque Converter Clutch
Solenoid Valve (3.0L)
VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve
At front of engine. See Fig. 1 .
(2.4L)
VTEC Oil Control Solenoid
At front of engine.
Valve (2.4L)
VTEC Solenoid Valve (2.4L) On right front of engine. See Fig. 1 .
VTEC Solenoid Valve (3.0L) On right front of engine. See Fig. 5 .
SWITCHES
SWITCHES LOCATION
At right front of engine compartment, near front
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2003 HONDA Accord
A/C Pressure Switch bumper.

Back-Up Light Switch
On top left of transaxle. See Fig. 1 .
(2.4L)
Back-Up Light Switch
On top left of transaxle. See Fig. 5 .
(3.0L)
Brake Fluid Level Switch In brake fluid reservoir cap.
Brake Pedal Position
On brake pedal support. See Fig. 8 .
Switch
Clutch Interlock Switch On clutch pedal support.
Moon Roof Switch At left side of dash.
Oil Pressure Switch (2.4L) At front of engine. See Fig. 2 .
Oil Pressure Switch (3.0L) At front of engine. See Fig. 4 .
Parking Brake Switch Mounted under parking brake lever. See Fig. 10 .
Park Pin Switch Below console, on shift lever. See Fig. 10 .
PSP Switch (2.4L) At right side of engine compartment.
At right rear of engine compartment, on power
PSP Switch (3.0L)
steering line.
Radiator Fan Switch
On left side of radiator.
(2.4L)
Radiator Fan Switch
On left side of radiator. See Fig. 7 .
(3.0L)
At front of engine compartment, on hood lock/latch
Security Hood Switch
assembly. See Fig. 7 .
Transmission Range
On rear of transaxle.
Switch (2.4L)
Trunk Key Cylinder
At right rear of trunk. See Fig. 16 .
Switch
Trunk Latch Switch At trunk latch/lock assembly. See Fig. 15 .
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
On front of cylinder head. See Fig. 2 .
(2.4L)
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
On front of right cylinder head. See Fig. 5 .
(3.0L)
Washer Fluid Level Behind right side of front bumper, on washer fluid
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2003 HONDA Accord
Switch reservoir.
2nd Clutch Pressure
On left front of transaxle. See Fig. 2 .
Switch (2.4L)
3rd Clutch Pressure
On side of transaxle. See Fig. 1 .
Switch (2.4L)
3rd Clutch Pressure
On left rear of transaxle. See Fig. 6 .
Switch (3.0L)
4th Clutch Pressure
On left rear of transaxle. See Fig. 5 .
Switch
MISCELLANEOUS
MISCELLANEOUS LOCATION
A/C Diode Under left side of dash.
Blower Power Transistor On bottom of blower unit. See Fig. 10 .
On lower left of dash, above the kick panel. See
DLC
Fig. 9 .
At front of engine compartment, behind front
High Horn
grille. See Fig. 7 .
Junction Connector C101 At middle of right cylinder head.
Junction Connector C102 At left side of engine compartment.
Junction Connector C103 At left side of engine compartment.
Junction Connector C404 Below left side of dash.
Junction Connector C503 Behind glove box.
Junction Connector C552 Behind right kick panel.
Junction Connector C553 Behind right kick panel.
Junction Connector C554 Under right side of dash.
Junction Connector C555 Under right side of dash.
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2003 HONDA Accord
Junction Connector C702 At left "C" pillar.

At front of engine compartment, behind front
Low Horn
grille. See Fig. 7 .
Seat Belt Tensioner (Driver's) At base of left "B" pillar.
Seat Belt Tensioner (Front
At base of right "B" pillar.
Passenger's)
Trailer Lighting Connector On left rear of trunk. See Fig. 15 .
Window Antenna Coil At left "C" pillar.
CONNECTORS
CONNECTORS LOCATION
Component Location
C101 (Gray, 6 Pin) At center front of engine compartment. See Fig. 2 .
C108 (2.4L) (Gray, 8
At left front side of engine compartment. See Fig. 2 .
Pin)
C110 (3.0L) (Black, 6
At right rear of engine compartment. See Fig. 4 .
Pin)
At left side of engine compartment, near battery. See
C151 (Gray, 1 Pin)
Fig. 5 .
C152 (2.4L) (Gray, 10 At left front of engine compartment, near battery.
Pin) See Fig. 1 .
C152 (3.0L) (Gray, 10
At left rear of engine compartment. See Fig. 4 .
Pin)
C153 (Black, 6 Pin) On top of transmission housing. See Fig. 5 .
C154 (Black, 1 Pin) On left front of engine. See Fig. 4 .
C201 (2.4L) (Black, 33
Pin)
C201 (3.0L) (Black, 33
Pin)
C202 (2.4L) (Gray, 33 At left rear of engine compartment.

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2003 HONDA Accord
Pin)
C202 (3.0L) (Gray, 33
Pin)
C203 (2.4L) (Black, 1
Pin)
C203 (3.0L) (Black, 23
At left side of engine compartment. See Fig. 5 .
Pin)
C251 (White, 13 Pin) Under center right of dash. See Fig. 10 .
C281 (White, 13 Pin) Under middle side of dash. See Fig. 11 .
C301 (Gray, 2 Pin) Behind left side of front bumper. See Fig. 7 .
At left rear of engine compartment, forward of strut
C310 (Brown, 3 Pin)
tower.
C311 (Gray/Black, 1
At right side of engine compartment.
Pin)
C401 (Brown, 20 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 8 .
C402 (Brown, 5 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 9 .
C403 (Yellow, 4 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 8 .
C415 (Gray, 3 Pin) Under left side of dash.
C416 (Gray, 2 Pin) Under left side of dash.
C501 (White, 24 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 9 .
C502 (Gray, 4 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 9 .
C551 (Gray, 4 Pin) Behind right kick panel. See Fig. 10 .
C552 (13 Pin) Behind right kick panel. See Fig. 10 .
C601 (Gray, 8 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 9 .
C631 (White, 20 Pin) In driver's door.
C632 (Blue/White, 17
In driver's door.
Pin)
C701 (Coupe) (Gray, 8
At left "C" pillar.
Pin)
C701 (Sedan) (Gray, 8 At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 16 .

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2003 HONDA Accord
Pin)
C711 (Gray, 2 Pin) Under left rear of vehicle. See Fig. 13 .
C731 (White, 13 Pin) Behind glove box. See Fig. 10 .
C732 (Gray, 12 Pin) Behind glove box. See Fig. 10 .
C751 (Gray, 10 Pin) At left "B" pillar. See Fig. 13 .
C781 (Blue, 10 Pin) At right "B" pillar. See Fig. 14 .
C801 (Gray, 4 Pin) Under front passenger's seat. See Fig. 14 .
C851 (Blue/White, 21
Under middle of dash. See Fig. 10 .
Pin)
C901 (Gray, 10 Pin) Under driver's seat. See Fig. 13 .
C902 (Gray, 10 Pin) Under front passenger's seat. See Fig. 14 .
GROUNDS
GROUNDS LOCATION
Component Location
At left front of engine compartment. See
G1
Fig. 3 .
At right side of engine compartment. See
G2
Fig. 3 .
G3
Fig. 3 .
G101 (2.4L) At top middle of engine. See Fig. 1 .
Left side of engine compartment. See
G101 (3.0L)
Fig. 4 .
G102 At right front side of engine. See Fig. 4 .
G151 On transmission housing. See Fig. 6 .
G201 (2.4L) At right side of engine compartment.
At right front side of engine
G201 (3.0L)
compartment.
At right side of engine compartment,
G202 (2.4L)
near right front headlight.
G202 (3.0L) At right rear side of engine compartment.
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2003 HONDA Accord
G203 At right side of engine compartment.

G301 At left side of front bumper. See Fig. 7 .
G302 Behind left side of front bumper.
G501 Behind left side of dash. See Fig. 8 .
G502 Behind left side of dash. See Fig. 8 .
G503 Behind glove box. See Fig. 10 .
G504 Under middle of dash. See Fig. 8 .
G505 Under center of dash. See Fig. 10 .
G506 Under center of dash. See Fig. 10 .
G601 At left side of floor. See Fig. 13 .
G602 At right side of floor. See Fig. 14 .
G603 Behind center of rear seats. See Fig. 13 .
G701 (Coupe) At left side of trunk. See Fig. 15 .
G701 (Sedan) At left side of trunk. See Fig. 16 .
G702 At left side of trunk. See Fig. 15 .
COMPONENT LOCATION GRAPHICS
NOTE: Figures may show multiple component locations. Refer to

appropriate table for proper figure references.
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Fig. 1: Engine Compartment (2.4L)

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Fig. 3: Engine Compartment

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Fig. 6: View Of Automatic Transmission (3.0L)

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Fig. 7: Front Of Vehicle

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Fig. 8: Left Side Of Dash

Fig. 9: Left Side Of Dash

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Fig. 10: Right Side Of Dash

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Fig. 11: Front View Of Dash

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Fig. 12: View Of HVAC Unit

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Fig. 13: Left Side Of Vehicle

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Fig. 14: Right Side Of Vehicle

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Fig. 15: Rear Of Vehicle (Coupe)

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Fig. 16: Rear Of Vehicle (Sedan)

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2007 HONDA
Accord
BUZZERS, RELAYS & TIMERS
BUZZERS, RELAYS & TIMERS LOCATION

Component Location
In under-dash fuse/relay box. See Fig.
Accessory Power Socket Relay
144.
In under-hood fuse/relay box. See Fig.
A/C Compressor Clutch Relay
145.
A/C Condenser Fan Relay
145.
A/F Sensor Relay
144.
Blower Motor Relay
145.
In underhood multi-relay box. See Fig.
DRL Relay (Canada)
83.
In underhood multi-relay box. See Fig.
Fan Control Relay
83.
In under-hood multi-relay box. See
Fan Control Relay (USA)
Fig. 146.
At left side of engine compartment.
Fog Light Relay 1 (Honda Accessory)
See Fig. 115.
Fog Light Relay 2 (Honda Accessory)
See Fig. 115.
Ignition Coil Relay
144.
Moonroof Close Relay At rear of roof. See Fig. 59.
Moonroof Open Relay At rear of roof. See Fig. 59.
PGM-FI Main Relay 1
144.
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2007 HONDA Accord
PGM-FI Main Relay 2 144.

Power Window Relay
144.
Radiator Fan Relay
145.
Rear Window Defogger Relay
145.
Seat Heater Relay (2.4L) Behind glove box. See Fig. 41.
Behind left side of glove box. See Fig.
Seat Heater Relay (3.0L)
108.
Starter Cut Relay
144.
Throttle Actuator Control Module Behind left side of glove box. See Fig.
Relay (3.0L) 108.
Turn Signal/Hazard Relay
144.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES
CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES LOCATION

Component Location
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Behind left kick panel. See Fig. 29.
On left rear corner of engine
Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box compartment, forward of strut tower.
See Fig. 23.
Attached to under-hood fuse/relay box.
Under-Hood Multi-Relay Box
See Fig. 155.
CONTROL UNITS
CONTROL UNITS LOCATION

Component Location
ABS Modulator-Control Unit
See Fig. 3.
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ABS/TCS Modulator-Control Unit At right side of engine compartment.

(3.0L) See Fig. 79.
DRL Control Unit Under left side of dash. See Fig. 172.
ECM/PCM (2.4L) Under middle of dash. See Fig. 43.
ECM/PCM (3.0L) Under middle of dash. See Fig. 107.
Frequency Modulator Unit Under middle of dash. See Fig. 201.
Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver In steering column cover. See Fig. 27.
Moon Roof Control Unit (Coupe) At rear of roof. See Fig. 139.
In trunk, under middle of rear shelf.
Navigation Unit
See Fig. 132.
In front passenger's seat back. See Fig.
ODS Unit
194.
Security Control Unit (Honda
Under left side of dash. See Fig. 118.
Accessory)
SRS Unit Under middle of dash. See Fig. 176.
Throttle Actuator Control Module Under right side of dash. See Fig. 109.
Right front of engine compartment.
VSA Modulator-Control Unit
See Fig. 159.
MOTORS
MOTORS LOCATION
Component Location
A/C Condenser Fan Motor Connector At right side of engine compartment.
(2.4L) See Fig. 6.
A/C Condenser Fan Motor Connector
At left front of engine. See Fig. 86.
(3.0L)
Air Mix Control Motor Under left side of dash. See Fig. 33.
Blower Motor Under right side of dash. See Fig. 46.
Driver's Air Mix Control Motor Under left side of dash. See Fig. 32.
Driver's Power Seat Front Up-Down
Under driver's seat. See Fig. 49.
Motor
Driver's Power Seat Rear Up-Down Under driver's seat. See Fig. 49.
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Motor
Driver's Power Seat Recline Motor
Connector
Driver's Power Seat Slide Motor Under driver's seat. See Fig. 49.
Driver's Power Window Motor In middle of driver's door. See Fig. 55.
Front Passenger's Air Mix Control
Under right side of dash. See Fig. 45.
Motor
Front Passenger's Power Seat Recline Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Motor Connector 113.
Front Passenger's Power Window In middle of front passenger's door.
Motor See Fig. 55.
Front Passenger's Seat Power Slide Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Motor 112.
Left Rear Power Window Motor In middle of left rear door. See Fig. 56.
Mode Control Motor Behind glove box. See Fig. 40.
Moonroof Motor At rear center of roof. See Fig. 58.
Power Mirror Connector (Left/Right) In respective front doors. See Fig. 180.
At left front of engine compartment.
Radiator Fan Motor Connector (2.4L)
See Fig. 19.
Radiator Fan Motor Connector (3.0L)
See Fig. 84.
Behind glove box, on blower unit. See
Recirculation Control Motor
Fig. 40.
At lower left rear of engine. See Fig.
Starter (2.4L)
15.
Starter (3.0L) At left rear of engine. See Fig. 98.
On bottom of windshield washer fluid
Windshield Washer Motor
reservoir. See Fig. 69.
Under left side of cowl cover. See Fig.
Windshield Wiper Motor
25.
SENDING UNITS & SENSORS
SENDING UNITS & SENSORS LOCATION

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Component Location
A/F Sensor Connector On exhaust manifold. See Fig. 167.
APP Sensor
See Fig. 158.
ATF Temperature Sensor Connector
On transmission. See Fig. 105.
(3.0L) (A/T)
CKP Sensors 1 & 2 (3.0L) At right front of engine. See Fig. 166.
CKP Sensor (2.4L) At right front of engine. See Fig. 70.
CMP Sensor A (2.4L) At rear of engine. See Fig. 161.
CMP Sensor B (2.4L) At rear of engine. See Fig. 161.
CMP Sensor (3.0L) At right front of engine. See Fig. 85.
Driver's Seat Position Sensor Under driver's seat. See Fig. 191.
On right rear of cylinder head. See Fig.
ECT Sensor 1 (2.4L)
162.
ECT Sensor 1 (3.0L) On left rear of engine. See Fig. 165.
ECT Sensor 2 (2.4L) Bottom of radiator. See Fig. 151.
ECT Sensor 2 (3.0L) Left side of engine. See Fig. 96.
EGR Valve & EGR Valve Position On rear of intake manifold. See Fig.
Sensor (2.4L) 161.
At left rear of engine. See Fig. 99.
Sensor (3.0L)
Evaporator Temperature Sensor Behind glove box, in evaporator unit.
Connector (Auto A/C) See Fig. 40.
Evaporator Temperature Sensor
Under right side of dash. See Fig. 120.
Connector (Manual A/C)
Front A/F Sensor Connector (3.0L) In right exhaust bank. See Fig. 92.
Front Passenger's Weight Sensor Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Connector (Inner Side) 195.
Front Passenger's Weight Sensor Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Connector (Outer Side) 195.
Front Secondary HO2S Connector
In right exhaust bank. See Fig. 92.
(3.0L)
FTP Sensor Under left rear of vehicle. See Fig. 77.
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In top of fuel tank, at left front of

Fuel Tank Unit
trunk. See Fig. 64.
On top left rear of intake manifold. See
IAT Sensor (3.0L)
Fig. 99.
In-Car Temperature Sensor Right of steering column. See Fig. 175.
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor At left side of engine compartment.
(2.4L) (A/T) See Fig. 153.
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
On transmission housing. See Fig. 135.
(3.0L) (M/T) (Coupe)
Knock Sensor (2.4L) At left side of engine. See Fig. 15.
Knock Sensor (3.0L) At left side of engine. See Fig. 90.
Behind left side of bumper. See Fig.
Left Front Impact Sensor
141.
Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor On left front suspension knuckle. See
Connector Fig. 21.
Left Side Impact Sensor (1st) Under driver's seat. See Fig. 189.
Left Side Impact Sensor (2nd) (Coupe) At left "B" pillar. See Fig. 123.
Left Side Impact Sensor (2nd) (Sedan) At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 186.
MAF/IAT Sensor
See Fig. 152.
MAP Sensor (2.4L) At left rear of engine. See Fig. 163.
MAP Sensor (3.0L) At left rear of engine. See Fig. 99.
Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed On top left of transmission. See Fig.
Sensor (2.4L) (A/T) 167.
Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed
Sensor (2.4L) (M/T)
Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed On top right of transmission. See Fig.
Sensor (3.0L) (A/T) 103.
Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed
Sensor (3.0L) (M/T) (Coupe)
Behind center of front bumper. See
Outside Air Temperature Sensor
Fig. 67.
Rear A/F Sensor (B1, S1) Connector
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(3.0L) At middle of engine. See Fig. 114.

Rear Secondary HO2S (B1, S2)
At middle of engine. See Fig. 114.
Connector (3.0L)
Behind right side of front bumper. See
Right Front Impact Sensor
Fig. 142.
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor At right front side of engine
Connector (3.0L) compartment. See Fig. 158.
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor On right front suspension knuckle. See
(2.4L) Fig. 13.
On right rear suspension knuckle. See
Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 76.
Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Right Side Impact Sensor (1st)
189.
Right Side Impact Sensor (2nd)
At right "B" pillar. See Fig. 123.
(Coupe)
Right Side Impact Sensor (2nd)
At right "C" pillar. See Fig. 186.
(Sedan)
Steering Angle Sensor In steering column cover. See Fig. 202.
Sunlight Sensor Top middle of dash. See Fig. 174.
TP Sensor/Throttle Actuator (2.4L) At left rear of engine. See Fig. 163.
TP Sensor/Throttle Actuator (3.0L) On throttle body. See Fig. 97.
Yaw Rate-Lateral Acceleration Sensor Under middle of dash. See Fig. 177.
SOLENOIDS & SOLENOID VALVES
SOLENOIDS & SOLENOID VALVES LOCATION

Component Location
A/C Compressor Connector (2.4L) At front of engine. See Fig. 72.
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid On left side of transmission. See Fig.
Valve A (2.4L) 16.
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid On top rear of transmission. See Fig.
Valve A (3.0L) 100.
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Valve B (2.4L) 74.

A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid On top rear of transmission. See Fig.
Valve B (3.0L) 100.
Valve C (2.4L) 74.
Valve C (3.0L) 102.
Cruise Control Actuator At right side of firewall. See Fig. 1.
Driver's Door Lock Actuator At rear of driver's door. See Fig. 181.
Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve
On left front of engine. See Fig. 9.
(2.4L)
Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve
On right cylinder bank. See Fig. 93.
(3.0L)
EVAP Canister Purge Valve (2.4L) At right rear of engine. See Fig. 18.
EVAP Canister Purge Valve (3.0L) On right rear of engine. See Fig. 164.
EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve On underside of vehicle, on EVAP
(Except SULEV) control canister. See Fig. 77.
EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Under left rear of vehicle. See Fig.
(SULEV) 131.
At rear of front passenger's door. See
Front Passenger's Door Lock Actuator
Fig. 181.
On left side of intake manifold. See
IAC Valve (2.4L)
Fig. 14.
IMRC Valve (3.0L) (M/T) At front of engine. See Fig. 134.
Injector No. 1 (2.4L) At top of engine. See Fig. 10.
On top of right cylinder bank. See Fig.
Injector No. 1 (3.0L)
91.
91.
91.
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On top of left cylinder bank. See Fig.
89.
89.
89.
Left Rear Door Lock Actuator At rear of left rear door. See Fig. 57.
Reverse Lockout Solenoid (3.0L)
(M/T) (Coupe)
Right Rear Door Lock Actuator At rear of right rear door. See Fig. 57.
Shift Control Solenoid Valve A (3.0L) On top front of transmission. See Fig.
(A/T) 104.
On left side of transmission. See Fig.
Shift Control Solenoid Valve B (3.0L)
101.
Shift Control Solenoid Valve C (3.0L) On top front of transmission. See Fig.
(A/T) 104.
Under floor console, on bottom right of
Shift Lock Solenoid Connector
gear selector lever. See Fig. 35.
At lower left rear of engine. See Fig.
Starter Solenoid (2.4L)
15.
Starter Solenoid (3.0L) At left rear of engine. See Fig. 98.
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid On top front of transmission. See Fig.
Valve (3.0L) 101.
VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve
At front of engine. See Fig. 7.
(2.4L)
VTEC Solenoid Valve Connector
On right front of engine. See Fig. 87.
(3.0L)
VTEC Solenoid Valve (2.4L) On right front of engine. See Fig. 2.
SWITCHES
SWITCHES LOCATION
Component Location
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At right front of engine compartment,

A/C Pressure Switch
near front bumper. See Fig. 68.
On top left of transmission. See Fig.
Back-Up Light Switch (2.4L) (M/T)
116.
Back-Up Light Switch (3.0L) (M/T) On top left of transmission. See Fig.
(Coupe) 136.
Brake Fluid Level Switch On brake fluid reservoir. See Fig. 24.
Brake Pedal Position Switch On brake pedal support. See Fig. 31.
Clutch Interlock Switch On clutch pedal support. See Fig. 173.
Clutch Pedal Position Switch Under left side of dash. See Fig. 173.
Driver's Door Switch (Coupe) At left "B" pillar. See Fig. 123.
Driver's Door Switch (Sedan) At left "B" pillar. See Fig. 182.
Driver's Seat Belt Switch Connector Under driver's seat. See Fig. 48.
Front Passenger's Door Switch
(Coupe)
Front Passenger's Door Switch (Sedan) At right "B" pillar. See Fig. 182.
Front Passenger's Seat Belt Switch Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Connector 113.
Left Rear Door Switch At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 183.
Moonroof Limit Switch Connector At center rear of roof. See Fig. 58.
Oil Pressure Switch (2.4L) At right front of engine. See Fig. 71.
Oil Pressure Switch (3.0L) At right front of engine. See Fig. 166.
Mounted under parking brake lever.
Parking Brake Switch
See Fig. 36.
Below console, on shift lever. See Fig.
Park Pin Switch
35.
PSP Switch (2.4L)
See Fig. 13.
PSP Switch (3.0L) At right side of engine. See Fig. 87.
Right Rear Door Switch At right "C" pillar. See Fig. 183.
Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch On front of right cylinder head. See
(VTEC Oil Pressure Switch) (3.0L) Fig. 166.
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At front of engine compartment, on

Security Hood Switch Connector
hood lock/latch assembly. See Fig. 66.
Transmission Range Switch (2.4L)
On rear of transmission. See Fig. 154.
(A/T)
Transmission Range Switch (3.0L)
On transmission. See Fig. 157.
(A/T)
Trunk Key Cylinder Switch (Sedan) At right side of trunk lid. See Fig. 65.
Trunk Lid Opener Solenoid/Latch At middle rear of trunk lid. See Fig.
Switch 197.
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch (2.4L) On front of cylinder head. See Fig. 2.
2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid On left front of transmission. See Fig.
Pressure Switch (2.4L) 16.
3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid
On side of transmission. See Fig. 75.
Pressure Switch (2.4L)
3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid On left rear of transmission. See Fig.
Pressure Switch (3.0L) (A/T) 105.
4th Clutch Transmission Fluid On left rear of transmission. See Fig.
Pressure Switch (3.0L) 102.
MISCELLANEOUS
MISCELLANEOUS LOCATION
Component Location
A/C Diode (3.0L) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 106.
Alternator (2.4L) At left front of engine. See Fig. 8.
Alternator (3.0L) At left front of engine. See Fig. 86.
Automatic Dimming Inside Mirror In-
Line Fuse (Honda Accessory)
Blower Power Transistor On bottom of blower unit. See Fig. 45.
Coil Assembly (Rear Window
Defogger) (Coupe)
Coil Assembly (Rear Window
Defogger) (Sedan)
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DIN Terminal (Honda Accessory) Under middle of dash. See Fig. 119.
On lower left of dash, above the kick
DLC
panel. See Fig. 169.
Driver's Airbag First & Second Under steering wheel horn pad. See
Inflators Connector Fig. 26.
Driver's Seat Belt Tensioner Connector
At left "B" pillar. See Fig. 123.
(Coupe)
Driver's Seat Belt Tensioner Connector
At left "B" pillar. See Fig. 143.
(Sedan)
Driver's Seat Heater Connector (EX-L) Under driver's seat. See Fig. 48.
Driver's Side Airbag Inflator
Connector (EX-L & 3.0L LX) (Sedan)
Frequency Modulator (Honda
Under center of dash. See Fig. 119.
Accessory)
Front Passenger's Airbag First & Behind left side of glove box. See Fig.
Second Inflators Connector 38.
Front Passenger's Seat Belt Tensioner
Connector (Coupe)
Front Passenger's Seat Belt Tensioner
Connector (Sedan)
Front Passenger's Seat Heater Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Connector (3.0L EX-L) (Sedan) 112.
Front Passenger's Side Airbag Inflator Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Connector (3.0L EX-L) (Sedan) 111.
At front of engine compartment,
High Horn
behind front grille. See Fig. 66.
Ignition Coil No. 1 (2.4L) At top of engine. See Fig. 12.
Ignition Coil No. 1 (3.0L)
94.
94.
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94.
95.
95.
95.
At middle of right cylinder bank. See
Junction Connector C101 (3.0L)
Fig. 93.
See Fig. 17.
See Fig. 17.
Junction Connector C103 (3.0L) At left rear of engine. See Fig. 96.
Junction Connector C404 Below left side of dash. See Fig. 147.
Junction Connector C554 Under right side of dash. See Fig. 37.
Junction Connector C555 Under right side of dash. See Fig. 37.
Junction Connector C556 Behind glove box. See Fig. 39.
Junction Connector C557 Behind glove box. See Fig. 39.
Junction Connector C702 (Coupe) At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 125.
Junction Connector C702 (Sedan) At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 53.
Left Side Curtain Airbag Inflator
At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 184.
(Coupe)
At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 185.
Left Side Curtain Airbag Inflator
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(Sedan)
At front of engine compartment,
Low Horn
behind front grille. See Fig. 66.
MES Connector Behind left kick panel. See Fig. 29.
Microphone Jack (Honda Accessory) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 118.
In trunk, under right side of rear shelf.
Navigation Service Check Connector
See Fig. 133.
Passenger's Seat Belt Tensioner
Connector (Coupe)
Right Side Curtain Airbag Inflator
(Coupe)
Right Side Curtain Airbag Inflator
(Sedan)
Thermal Joint (T10) Rear of engine. See Fig. 149.
Trailer Lighting Connector (C704) Left side of trunk. See Fig. 203.
Window Antenna Coil (Coupe) At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 128.
Window Antenna Coil (Sedan) At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 61.
XM Antenna Connector (Coupe) At right "C" pillar. See Fig. 187.
XM Antenna Connector (Sedan) At right "C" pillar. See Fig. 188.
XM Receiver At right side of trunk. See Fig. 140.
CONNECTORS
CONNECTORS LOCATION
Component Location
C101 (Black, 6 Pin) At left side of engine. See Fig. 160.
At left side of transmission housing.
C108 (2.4L) (A/T) (Gray, 8 Pin)
See Fig. 73.
C151 (3.0L) (A/T) (Black, 6 Pin)
See Fig. 102.
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C152 (2.4L) (Black, 10 Pin)
See Fig. 153.
At top of transmission housing. See
C152 (3.0L) (Black, 10 Pin)
Fig. 156.
On top of transmission housing. See
C153 (2.4L) (Gray, 1 Pin)
Fig. 20.
At rear of transmission housing. See
C153 (3.0L) (Gray, 1 Pin)
Fig. 103.
C154 (3.0L) (Black, 1 Pin) On left front of engine. See Fig. 90.
C155 (3.0L) (Black, 6 Pin) At right side of engine. See Fig. 87.
C201 (2.4L) (Black, 33 Pin)
See Fig. 150.
At left rear of engine compartment.
C201 (3.0L) (Black, 33 Pin)
See Fig. 81.
C202 (2.4L) (A/T) (Gray, 33 Pin)
See Fig. 150.
C202 (2.4L) (M/T) (Black, 23 Pin)
See Fig. 150.
At left rear of engine compartment.
C202 (3.0L) (Gray, 33 Pin)
See Fig. 81.
C203 (2.4L) (Black, 1 Pin)
See Fig. 150.
C203 (3.0L) (Black, 23 Pin)
See Fig. 81.
Under center right of dash. See Fig.
C251 (White, 13 Pin)
44.
C281 (White, 13 Pin) Under right side of dash. See Fig. 110.
C301 (Gray, 4 Pin)
See Fig. 148.
At left rear of engine compartment,
C310 (Optional) (Brown, 3 Pin)
forward of strut tower. See Fig. 21.
C311 (3.0L) (Gray, 1 Pin)
See Fig. 88.
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C401 (Brown, 20 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 171.
C402 (White, 12 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 171.
C403 (Yellow, 4 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 171.
C407 (EX-L) (White, 14 Pin) Under middle of dash. See Fig. 138.
C408 (EX-L) (White, 14 Pin) Under middle of dash. See Fig. 138.
C411 (Brown, 1 Pin) Under middle of dash. See Fig. 177.
C415 (Optional) (Gray, 3 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 30.
C416 (Optional) (Gray, 2 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 30.
C501 (Honda Accessory) (White, 24
Pin)
C501 (White, 24 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 169.
C502 (EX-L) (Light Blue, 6 Pin) Under left side of dash. See Fig. 169.
Under left rear of vehicle. See Fig.
C531 (SULEV) (Gray, 2 Pin)
130.
C551 (DX-G, LX, SE, EX & VP)
Behind right kick panel. See Fig. 47.
(Gray, 4 Pin)
C551 (EX-L) (White, 17 Pin) Behind right kick panel. See Fig. 179.
C552 (White, 13 Pin) Behind right kick panel. See Fig. 179.
C553 (Light Blue, 6 Pin) Behind right kick panel. See Fig. 179.
C601 (EX-L, 2.4L EX & 3.0L LX, SE)
(Gray, 10 Pin)
C602 (Optional) (Gray, 3 Pin) Left front of roof. See Fig. 196.
C630 (Honda Accessory) (Gray, 3 Pin) At front of roof. See Fig. 126.
C631 (White, 20 Pin) In driver's door. See Fig. 54.
C632 (Blue/White, 17 Pin) In driver's door. See Fig. 54.
C651 (White, 6 Pin) Behind right kick panel. See Fig. 179.
C701 (Coupe) (Gray, 8 Pin) At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 124.
C701 (Sedan) (Gray, 8 Pin) At left "C" pillar. See Fig. 52.
C704 (Trailer Lighting Connector)
Left side of trunk. See Fig. 203.
(Gray, 2 Pin)
C731 (White, 13 Pin) Behind glove box. See Fig. 42.
C732 (Gray, 12 Pin) Behind glove box. See Fig. 42.
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C751 (Sedan) (Gray, 10 Pin) At left "B" pillar. See Fig. 51.
C781 (Sedan) (Blue, 10 Pin) At right "B" pillar. See Fig. 51.
C801 (Except 3.0L EX-L Sedan) Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
(Gray, 4 Pin) 193.
C801 (3.0L EX-L) (Sedan) (Gray, 4 Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Pin) 111.
C851 (Coupe) (White, 21 Pin) Under middle of dash. See Fig. 178.
C851 (Sedan) (Blue, 21 Pin) Under center of dash. See Fig. 178.
C901 (Except EX-L & 3.0L LX)
(Gray, 5 Pin)
C901 (EX-L & 3.0L SE, LX) (Gray,
10 Pin)
C902 (3.0L EX-L) (Sedan) (Gray, 10 Under front passenger's seat. See Fig.
Pin) 111.
C903 (EX-L & 3.0L SE, LX) (Gray, 2
Pin)
C910 (EX-L) (Gray, 2 Pin) Under driver's seat. See Fig. 48.
GROUNDS
GROUNDS LOCATION
Component Location
Left front of engine (3.0L). See Fig.
Case Ground (Below Alternator)
86.
G1 (2.4L)
See Fig. 22.
G1 (3.0L)
See Fig. 82.
G2 (2.4L)
See Fig. 4.
G2 (3.0L)
See Fig. 80.
At rear of transmission housing. See
G3 (2.4L)
Fig. 20.
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G3 (3.0L)
See Fig. 103.
Behind middle of front bumper. See
G20 (Honda Accessory)
Fig. 129.
G51 (Honda Accessory) Behind left kick panel. See Fig. 200.
G101 (2.4L) At top middle of engine. See Fig. 11.
G101 (3.0L) Rear of engine. See Fig. 165.
At right front side of engine. See Fig.
G102 (3.0L)
78.
G151 (3.0L) (A/T) On transmission housing. See Fig. 105.
G201
Fig. 142.
G202
Fig. 142.
G203
See Fig. 5.
At left side of front bumper. See Fig.
G301
141.
Behind left side of front bumper. See
G302
Fig. 141.
G501 Behind left side of dash. See Fig. 147.
G502 Behind left side of dash. See Fig. 147.
G503 Behind glove box. See Fig. 42.
G504 Under middle of dash. See Fig. 34.
G505 Under center of dash. See Fig. 35.
G506 Under middle of dash. See Fig. 177.
G601 (Coupe) On left side of floor. See Fig. 121.
G601 (Sedan) Under driver's seat. See Fig. 190.
G602 On right side of floor. See Fig. 122.
Behind center of rear seats. See Fig.
G603
63.
G604 (Coupe) At right "C" pillar. See Fig. 127.
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G604 (Sedan) At right "C" pillar. See Fig. 60.

G701 (Coupe) Left side of trunk. See Fig. 199.
G701 (Sedan) At left side of trunk. See Fig. 62.
G702 (Coupe) At left side of trunk. See Fig. 198.
COMPONENT LOCATION GRAPHICS
NOTE: Figures may show multiple component locations. Refer to

appropriate table for proper figure references.
Fig. 1: Right Side Of Engine Compartment (2.4L)

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Fig. 2: Right Side Of Engine (2.4L)

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Fig. 5: Right Side Of Engine Compartment

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Fig. 9: Middle Of Engine (2.4L) (A/T)

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Fig. 10: Middle Of Engine (2.4L)

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Fig. 14: Left Side Of Engine (2.4L)

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Fig. 16: Automatic Transmission Housing (2.4L)

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Fig. 17: Left Side Of Engine Compartment (2.4L)

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Fig. 18: Right Rear Of Engine (2.4L)

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Fig. 19: Left Front Of Engine Compartment (2.4L)

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Fig. 21: Left Side Of Engine Compartment

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Fig. 23: Left Rear Of Engine Compartment

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Fig. 24: Left Rear Of Engine Compartment

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Fig. 25: Under Left Side Of Cowl Cover

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Fig. 26: Steering Wheel

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Fig. 27: Steering Column

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Fig. 28: Under Left Side Of Dash

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Fig. 29: Behind Left Kick Panel

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Fig. 32: Under Left Side Of Dash (EX-L)

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Fig. 33: Under Left Side Of Dash (DX-G, LX, SE, VP & 2.4L EX)
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Fig. 34: Under Middle Of Dash

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Fig. 35: Under Center Console

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Fig. 36: Under Center Console

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Fig. 37: Under Right Side Of Dash

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Fig. 38: Behind Glove Box

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Fig. 41: Behind Glove Box (2.4L EX-L)

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Fig. 43: Under Middle Of Dash (2.4L)

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Fig. 46: Under Right Side Of Dash (EX-L)

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Fig. 47: Behind Right Kick Panel (DX-G, LX, SE, EX & VP)
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Fig. 48: Under Driver's Seat (EX-L & 3.0L SE, LX)
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Fig. 51: Left & Right "B" Pillar

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Fig. 52: Left "C" Pillar (Sedan)

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Fig. 54: Front Of Driver's Door

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Fig. 55: Driver's & Front Passenger's Door

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Fig. 56: Left & Right Rear Door

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Fig. 57: Left & Right Rear Doors

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Fig. 58: Rear Of Roof (EX & EX-L) (Sedan)

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Fig. 59: Rear Of Roof (EX & EX-L) (Sedan)

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Fig. 60: Right "C" Pillar (Sedan)

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Fig. 62: Left Side Of Trunk (Sedan)

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Fig. 63: Left Front Of Trunk

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Fig. 64: Left Front Of Trunk

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Fig. 65: Right Side Of Trunk Lid (Sedan)

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Fig. 66: Behind Middle Of Front Bumper

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Fig. 67: Behind Middle Of Front Bumper

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Fig. 68: Behind Right Side Of Front Bumper

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Fig. 70: Right Front Side Of Engine (2.4L)

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Fig. 71: Right Front Side Of Engine (2.4L)

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Fig. 76: Under Right Rear Of Vehicle

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Fig. 77: Under Left Rear Of Vehicle

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Fig. 86: Left Front Of Engine (3.0L)

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Fig. 96: Left Rear Of Engine (3.0L)

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Fig. 106: Under Left Side Of Dash (3.0L)

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Fig. 107: Under Middle Of Dash (3.0L)

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Fig. 111: Under Front Passenger's Seat (3.0L EX-L) (Sedan)

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Fig. 115: Left Side Of Engine Compartment (Honda Accessory)

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Fig. 116: Manual Transmission Housing (2.4L)

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Fig. 117: Under Left Side Of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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Fig. 118: Under Left Side Of Dash (DX-G, VP & SE, LX) (Honda Accessory)
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Fig. 119: Under Middle Of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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Fig. 120: Under Right Side Of Dash (DX-G, LX, SE, VP & 2.4L EX)
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Fig. 121: Left Side Of Floor (Coupe)

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Fig. 122: Right Side Of Floor

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Fig. 123: Left & Right "B" Pillar (Coupe)

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Fig. 124: Left "C" Pillar (Coupe)

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Fig. 126: Front Of Roof (Honda Accessory)

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Fig. 127: Right "C" Pillar (Coupe)

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Fig. 129: Behind Middle Of Front Bumper (Honda Accessory)

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Fig. 130: Under Left Rear Of Vehicle (SULEV)

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Fig. 131: Under Left Rear Of Vehicle (SULEV)

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Fig. 132: Under Middle Of Rear Shelf (EX-L)

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Fig. 133: Under Right Side Of Rear Shelf (EX-L)

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Fig. 134: Front Of Engine (3.0L) (M/T)

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Fig. 135: Manual Transmission Housing (3.0L) (Coupe)

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Fig. 138: Under Middle Of Dash (EX-L)

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Fig. 139: Rear Of Roof (EX & EX-L) (Coupe)

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Fig. 140: Right Side Of Trunk

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Fig. 141: Behind Left Side Of Front Bumper

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Fig. 143: Left & Right "B" Pillar (Sedan)

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Fig. 144: Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box

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Fig. 145: Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box

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Fig. 146: Under-Hood Multi-Relay Box

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Fig. 153: Left Side Of Engine Compartment (2.4L) (A/T)

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Fig. 158: Right Side Of Engine Compartment

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Fig. 161: Rear Of Engine (2.4L)

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Fig. 166: Front Of Engine (3.0L)

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Fig. 167: Transmission Housing (2.4L) (A/T)

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Fig. 168: Transmission Housing (2.4L) (M/T)

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Fig. 172: Under Left Side Of Dash (USA)

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Fig. 173: Under Left Side Of Dash (M/T)

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Fig. 174: Top Middle Of Dash (EX-L)

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Fig. 175: Lower Middle Of Dash (EX-L)

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Fig. 179: Behind Right Kick Panel

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Fig. 180: Left & Right Front Door

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Fig. 181: Left & Right Front Door

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Fig. 182: Left & Right "B" Pillar (Sedan)

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Fig. 183: Left & Right "C" Pillar (Sedan)

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Fig. 184: Left & Right "C" Pillar (Coupe)

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Fig. 187: Right "C" Pillar (EX-L) (Coupe)

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Fig. 188: Right "C" Pillar (EX-L) (Sedan)

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Fig. 189: Left & Right Front Floor

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Fig. 190: Under Driver's Seat (Sedan)

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Fig. 191: Under Driver's Seat

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Fig. 192: Under Driver's Seat (Except EX-L & 3.0L LX)
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Fig. 193: Under Front Passenger's Seat (Except 3.0L EX-L Sedan)
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Fig. 194: Front Passenger's Seat

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Fig. 195: Under Front Passenger's Seat

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Fig. 196: Front Of Roof

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Fig. 197: Middle Of Trunk Lid

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Fig. 198: Left Side Of Trunk (Coupe)

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Fig. 199: Left Side Of Trunk (Coupe)

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Fig. 200: Behind Left Kick Panel (Honda Accessory)

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Fig. 201: Under Middle Of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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Fig. 202: In Steering Column Cover

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Fig. 203: Left Side Of Trunk

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2003-07 ENGINE Engine Assembly - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Engine Assembly - Accord (V6)
ENGINE REMOVAL

Engine hanger balance bar VSB02000019

To avoid damage, unplug the wiring connectors
carefully while holding the connector portion.
be sure that they do not contact other wiring, hoses, or
interfere with other parts.
OFF.
2. Remove the windshield wiper arms, then remove the cowl cover, refer to
COWL COVER REPLACEMENT .
3. Remove the bulkhead cover:
2-door, refer to FRONT GRILLE REPLACEMENT
4-door, refer to FRONT GRILLE REPLACEMENT
4. Remove the support struts from the engine hood. Move the engine hood to a
vertical position, then reinstall the right side support strut as shown in Fig. 1.
in the vertical position, as it will damage the support
strut and hood.
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Fig. 1: Identifying Support Strut From Engine Hood

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6. Drain the power steering system fluid, then plug the fluid reservoir and return
hose (see FLUID REPLACEMENT ).
positive cable.
10. Remove the harness clamp (A).
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Fig. 2: Identifying Harness Clamps

11. Remove the two bolts (B), and loosen the two bolts (C) securing the battery
base, then remove the battery base (D).
12. Remove the battery cables (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box, then
disconnect the harness connector (B).
Fig. 3: Identifying Battery Cables From Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box

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13. Remove the ground cable (C).
14. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose (A), evaporative emission (EVAP)
canister hose (B) and vacuum hose (C).
Fig. 4: Identifying Brake Booster Vacuum Hose

15. Remove the harness clamp (A), and disconnect the engine wire harness
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connectors (B) on the left side of the engine compartment.
Fig. 5: Identifying Harness Clamp

17. Remove the Fuel Line.
18. Remove the power steering (P/S) pump outlet line (A) from the P/S pump, then
plug the outlet line and the P/S pump.
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Fig. 6: Identifying P/S Pump Outlet Line

19. Remove the P/S hose (B) from the clamp (C).
20. Remove the power steering system fluid reservoir (D) from the clamp.
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Fig. 7: Identifying Steering Joint Cover

22. Looking the steering wheel. Make a reference mark (B) across the steering
joint and steering gearbox pinion shaft. Remove the steering joint bolt (C), and
disconnect the steering joint from the steering gearbox pinion shaft (D). To
prevent damage to the cable reel, do not turn the steering wheel once the
steering joint has been removed.
23. Disconnect the fan motor connector (A) and compressor clutch connector (B),
then remove the reserve tank (C).
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Fig. 8: Disconnecting Fan Motor Connector And Compressor Clutch

Connector
24. Remove the two bolts (D), and loosen the bolt (E), then remove the condenser
fan shroud.
25. Remove the four bolts securing the A/C compressor.
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Fig. 9: Identifying A/C Compressor Bolts

26. M/T model: Remove the ground cable (A) from the shift cable holder, then
remove the three bolts securing the shift cable holder (B).
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Fig. 10: Identifying Ground Cable From Shift Cable Holder (M/T Model)
27. M/T model: Remove the shift cable (C) and select cable (D). Do not bend the
cables excessively.
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28. M/T model: Remove the clutch slave cylinder (A), and clutch line bracket
mounting bolt (B). Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has
been removed.
Fig. 11: Identifying Clutch Slave Cylinder And Clutch Line Bracket
Mounting Bolt (M/T Model)

30. Raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height.
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33. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator, and drain the engine coolant (see
COOLANT CHECK ).
34. Drain the transmission fluid:
Manual transmission (see TRANSMISSION REMOVAL )
Automatic transmission (see TRANSMISSION REMOVAL )
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35. Drain the engine oil (see ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT ).

36. Disconnect the stabilizer links, refer to STABILIZER LINK
REPLACEMENT .
37. Remove the damper fork, refer to DAMPER/SPRING REPLACEMENT .
38. Separate the tie-rod end ball joints from the knuckles (see step 9 in
STEERING GEARBOX REMOVAL ).
39. Separate the knuckles from the lower arms, refer to LOWER ARM
40. Remove the driveshafts (see step 10 DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL ). Coat all
precision-finished surfaces with clean engine oil. Tie plastic bags over the
driveshaft ends.
41. Remove exhaust pipe A.
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Fig. 13: Identifying Exhaust Pipe A

42. A/T model: Remove the bolts (A) securing the shift cable holder (B), then
remove the shift cable cover (C). To prevent damage to the control lever joint,
be sure to remove the bolts securing the shift cable holder before Identifying
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the bolts securing the shift cable cover.
Fig. 14: Identifying Shift Cable Holder Bolt (A/T Model)

43. A/T model: Remove the lock bolt (D) securing the control lever (E), then
remove the shift cable (F) with the control lever. Do not bend the shift cable
excessively.
44. A/T model: Remove the lock bolt (D) securing the control lever (E), then
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2006 Honda Accord
remove the shift cable (F) with the control lever (E), then remove the shift
cable (F) with the control lever. Do not bend the shift cable excessively.
45. Remove the P/S hose, then plug the line and the hose.
Fig. 15: Identifying P/S Hose

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47. Remove the nuts securing the transmission lower front mount and transmission
lower rear mount.
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Fig. 17: Identifying Transmission Lower Front Mount And Transmission

Lower Rear Mount Nut
48. Lower the vehicle on the hoist.

49. Remove the upper radiator hose (A) and lower radiator hose (B).
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Fig. 18: Identifying Upper Radiator And Lower Radiator Hose

50. Remove the heater hoses.
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Fig. 19: Identifying Heater Hoses

51. Remove the connector bracket from the front cylinder head; use the bracket
bolt to attach engine balancer bar front arm.
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Fig. 20: Identifying Connector Bracket From Front Cylinder Head

52. Remove the harness clamp bracket from the rear cylinder head; use the bracket
bolt to attach engine balancer bar rear arm.
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Fig. 21: Identifying Harness Clamp Bracket From Rear Cylinder Head
53. Lift and support the engine with engine hanger (A) and engine balancer bar
(B).
Attach the front arm (C) to the front cylinder head with a spacer (D) and the
connector bracket bolt (10 x 1.25 mm) (E). Attach the rear arm (F) to the rear
cylinder head with the harness clamp bracket bolt (8 x 1.25 mm) (G).
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Fig. 22: Lifting Engine With Engine Hanger And Engine Balancer Bar
54. M/T model: Remove the ground cable (A).
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Fig. 23: Identifying Ground Cable (M/T Model)

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Fig. 24: Identifying Ground Cable (A/T Model)

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55. Remove the transmission upper mount bracket (B), and remove the vacuum
hose (C).
56. Remove the front mount stop (A), then remove the front mount bolt (B).
Fig. 25: Identifying Front Mount Bolt

57. Remove the rear mount stop (A), then remove the rear mount bolt (B).
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Fig. 26: Identifying Rear Mount Stop And Rear Mount Bolt
58. M/T model: Remove the two bolts securing the shift cable bracket.
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Fig. 27: Identifying Shift Cable Bracket Bolt (M/T Model)

60. Make the appropriate lines (A) at the subframe that line up with the edge of the
subframe stiffer (B).
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Fig. 28: Identifying Subframe Stiffer

61. Attach the special tool to the subframe by hanging the belt (A) over the front of
the subframe (B), then secure the belt with its stop (C).
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Fig. 29: Hanging Belt Over Front Of Subframe Using Special Tool
62. Raise the jack, then line up the slots in the special tool arms with the bolt holes
on the corner of the jack base, then securely attach them with four bolts.
63. Remove the subframe mid mounts (A), then remove the subframe (B).
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Fig. 30: Identifying Subframe Mid Mounts And Subframe

64. Lower the vehicle and attach a chain hoist (A) to the engine hook (B) and
transmission hook (C). Lift up on the engine/transmission assembly until it's
securely supported by the chain hoist, and remove the engine support hanger
from the engine and vehicle.
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Fig. 31: Attaching Chain Hoist To Engine Hook And Transmission Hook
65. Remove the two bolts securing the side engine mount bracket.
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Fig. 32: Identifying Side Engine Mount Bracket Bolts

66. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel
and coolant hoses, and electrical wiring.
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67. Slowly lower the engine/transmission assembly about 150 mm (6 in.). Check
once again that all hoses and electrical wiring are disconnected and free from
the engine/transmission, then lower it all the way.
68. Disconnect the chain hoist from the engine/ transmission assembly.
69. Raise the vehicle all the way, and remove the engine/transmission assembly
from under the vehicle.
ENGINE INSTALLATION

Engine hanger balance bar VSB02000019
1. Install the accessory brackets and tighten their bolts and nuts to the specified
torques.
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Fig. 33: Identifying Engine Accessory Brackets, Bolts And Nuts

2. Position the engine/transmission assembly under the vehicle. Be sure that they
are properly aligned. Carefully lower the vehicle until the engine and
transmission are properly positioned in the engine compartment. Make sure the
vehicle is not resting on any part of the engine or transmission. Lift and support
the engine with a chain hoist (A) and carefully raise the engine/transmission
assembly into place.
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NOTE: Reinstall the mounting bolts/support nuts in the

sequence given in following steps. Failure to follow this
sequence may cause excessive noise and vibration,
and reduce engine mount life.
Fig. 34: Lifting And Supporting Engine With Chain Hoist

3. Install the engine balancer bar (VSB02C000019); attach the front arm (A) to
the front cylinder head with a spacer (B) and 10 x 1.25 mm bolt (C), attach the
rear arm (D) to the rear cylinder head with 8 x 1.25 mm bolt (E).
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Fig. 35: Attaching Front Arm To Front Cylinder Head With Spacer
4. Install the engine support hanger (AAR-T-12566) to the vehicle, and attach the
hook to the slotted hole in the engine balancer bar. Tighten the wing nut (F) by
hand to lift and support the engine/transmission assembly.
5. Install and tighten the two bolts securing the upper bracket.
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Fig. 36: Identifying Upper Bracket Bolt

6. Remove the chain hoist, then raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height.
8. Attach the front subframe adapter to the subframe by hanging the belt (A) over
the front of the subframe (B), then secure the belt with its stop (C). Raise the
subframe up to the body with a jack.
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Fig. 37: Attaching Front Subframe Adapter To Subframe By Hanging Belt

Over Front Subframe
9. Loosely install the four front subframe mounting bolts (A) and the four 12 x
1.25 mm bolts (B), (C) with the stiffeners.
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Fig. 38: Identifying Front Subframe Mounting Bolts

10. Loosely install the subframe mid mounts (D).

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11. Align the reference marks (A) with the edge of the subframe stiffener (B), then
tighten the subframe mounting bolts, and 12 x 1.25 mm bolts.
Fig. 39: Aligning Reference Marks With Edge Of Subframe Stiffener

12. Remove the jack and front subframe adapter.

13. Tighten the bolts securing the subframe mid mounts.
14. Tighten the nuts securing the transmission lower rear mount.
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Fig. 40: Tightening Transmission Lower Rear Mount Nut

15. Lower the vehicle on the hoist, then remove the engine hanger and balancer
bar.
16. M/T model: Tighten the two bolts securing the shift cable bracket.
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Fig. 41: Tightening Shift Cable Bracket Bolt (M/T Model)

17. Tighten the rear mount bolt (A), then install the rear mount stop (B).
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Fig. 42: Tightening Rear Mount Bolt

18. Tighten the front mount bolt (A), then install the front mount stop (B).
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Fig. 43: Tightening Front Mount Bolt

19. Install the transmission upper mount bracket (A), then tighten the bolts in the
numbered sequence shown in Fig. 44 or Fig. 45.
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Fig. 44: Identifying Transmission Upper Mount Bracket (M\T Model)

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Fig. 45: Identifying Transmission Upper Mount Bracket (A\T Model)

20. Install the vacuum hose (B).

21. M/T model: Install the ground cable (C).
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24. Install the power steering (P/S) hose.
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Fig. 47: Identifying Power Steering (P/S) Hose

25. A/T model: Install the control lever (A) with the shift cable on the control
shaft. Do not bend the shift cable excessively.
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Fig. 48: Identifying Control Lever With Shift Cable On Control Shaft
(A/T Model)
26. A/T model: Install the lock bolt (B) with a new lock washer (C), then bend the
lock washer tab against the bolt.
27. A/T model: Install the shift cable cover (D), then install the shift cable holder
(E) on the shift cable cover.
28. Install exhaust pipe A using new gaskets (B) and new self-locking nuts (C).
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Fig. 49: Identifying Exhaust Pipe A Using Gaskets

29. Install a new set ring on the end of each driveshaft, then install the driveshafts.
Make sure each ring "clicks" into place in the differential and intermediate
shaft.
30. Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckles, refer to step 8 LOWER
ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION .
31. Connect the tie-rod end ball joints to the knuckles (see step 21 inSTEERING
GEARBOX INSTALLATION ).
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32. Install the damper fork, refer to step 2 in INSTALLATION ).

33. Connect the stabilizer links, refer to STABILIZER LINK
REPLACEMENT .


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37. Install the heater hoses.
Fig. 51: Identifying Heater Hoses

38. Install the upper radiator hose (A) and lower radiator hose (B).
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Fig. 52: Identifying Upper Radiator And Lower Radiator Hose

39. M/T model: Install the clutch slave cylinder (A) and clutch line bracket
mounting bolt (B).
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Fig. 53: Identifying Clutch Slave Cylinder And Clutch Line Bracket
Mounting Bolt (M/T Model)
40. M/T model: Install the select cable (A) and shift cable (B) with the plastic
washers (C), washers (D), and new cotter pins (E).
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Fig. 54: Identifying Select Cable And Shift Cable With Plastic Washers
(M/T Model)
41. M/T model: Install the shift cable holder (F) and ground cable (G).
42. Install the A/C compressor.
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Fig. 55: Identifying A/C Compressor Bolt

43. Install the condenser fan shroud (A), and reserve tank (B), then connect the fan
motor connector (C) and compressor clutch connector (D).
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Fig. 56: Identifying Condenser Fan Shroud And Reserve Tank

44. Align the reference mark (A) on the steering joint and steering gearbox pinion
shaft. Connect the steering joint (B) to the steering gearbox pinion shaft (C).
Tighten the steering joint bolt.
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Fig. 57: Aligning Reference Mark On Steering Joint And Steering

Gearbox Pinion Shaft
45. Install the steering joint cover (D).

46. Install the P/S pump outlet line (A) with a new O-ring (B) to the pump (C), and
install the P/S hose (D) in its clamp (E).
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Fig. 58: Identifying P/S Pump Outlet Line With New O-Ring
47. Install the power steering system fluid reservoir (F) to the clamp, then install
the return hose (G) to the fluid reservoir.
48. Install the harness clamp bracket to the rear cylinder head.
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Fig. 59: Identifying Harness Clamp Bracket To Rear Cylinder Head

49. Install the connecting bracket to the front cylinder head.
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Fig. 60: Identifying Connecting Bracket To Front Cylinder Head

50. Install the drive belt (see DRIVE BELT INSPECTION ).

51. Install the fuel line (see FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
INSTALLATION ).
52. Connect the engine wire harness connectors (A), then install the harness clamp
(B).
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Fig. 61: Connecting Engine Wire Harness Connectors

53. Install the brake booster vacuum hose (A), evaporative emission (EVAP)
canister hose (B), and vacuum hose (C).
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Fig. 62: Identifying Brake Booster Vacuum Hose, Evaporative Emission

Canister Hose And Vacuum Hose
54. Install the ground cable (A), and connect the harness connector (B).
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55. Install the battery cables (C).
56. Install the battery base (A), then install the harness clamp (B).
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Fig. 64: Identifying Battery Base And Harness Clamp

57. Install the air cleaner housing, refer to DTC P0406: EGR VALVE
POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE ).
59. A/T model: Move the shift lever to each gear, and verify that the A/T gear
position indicator follows the transmission range switch.
point in the fuel line.
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61. Refill the engine with engine oil (see step 3 in ENGINE OIL
REPLACEMENT ).
62. Refill the transmission with fluid:
with the heater valve open (see step 8 COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
64. Refill the power steering system fluid (see FLUID REPLACEMENT ).
65. Perform the engine control module (ECM)/ powertrain control module (PCM)
reset procedure (see ECM/PCM RESET ).
67. Inspect the idle speed, refer to (see FUEL PRESSURE RELIEVING ).
69. Install the cowl cover and windshield wiper arms, refer to COWL COVER
REPLACEMENT .
70. Install the bulkhead cover:
2-door, refer to FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
4-door, refer to FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
71. Check the wheel alignment, refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT .

74. Set the clock.
ENGINE MOUNT REPLACEMENT
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Fig. 65: Replacing Engine Mount

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2003-07 ENGINE Engine Assembly - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Engine Assembly - Accord
ENGINE REMOVAL

To avoid damaging the wire and terminals, unplug the
wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector
portion.
be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses,
or interfere with other parts.
1. Secure the hood in the wide open position (support rod in the lower hole).
2. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio unit, then write down the
audio presets. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
positive cable.
6. Except '03-04 SULEV, LX-P models and '05-07 models: Disconnect the intake
air temperature (IAT) sensor connector (A).
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2006 Honda Accord

duct (D).
9. Remove the harness clamp (A).
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Fig. 2: Removing Harness Clamp

10. Remove the two bolts (B), and loosen the two bolts (C) securing the battery
base, then remove the battery base (D).
11. Remove the battery cables (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box, then
disconnect the harness connector (B).
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Fig. 3: Removing Battery Cables (A) From Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box

12. Remove the two bolts (C) securing the under-hood fuse/relay box.
13. '03-05 models: Remove the throttle cable (A) and cruise control actuator cable
(B) by loosening the locknuts (C), then slipping the cable ends out of the
accelerator linkage. Take care not to bend the cables when removing them.
Always replace any kinked cable with a new one.
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Fig. 4: Removing Throttle Cable And Cruise Control Actuator Cable

14. '06-07 models: Remove the harness clamp (A) and bolt (B), then remove the
strut brace (C).
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Fig. 5: Removing Harness Clamp And Bolt

15. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A), then disconnect the fuel feed hose
(see FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING REMOVAL ).
Fig. 6: Removing Quick-Connect Fitting Cover

vacuum hose (B).
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17. '03-2005 models: Remove the harness clamp (A), then disconnect the engine
wire harness connectors (B) on the left side of the engine compartment.
Fig. 8: Removing Harness Clamp

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18. '06-07 models: Disconnect the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain

control module (PCM) connectors (A) and the main wire harness connectors
(B).
Fig. 9: Disconnecting Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control

Module (PCM) Connectors
19. '06-07 models: Disconnect the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor
connector (A).
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Fig. 10: Disconnecting Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor Connector

20. '06-07 models: Remove the harness clamps (B) and grommet (C), then pull the
engine wire harness through the bulkhead.
21. M/T model: Remove the clutch slave cylinder (A), and clutch line bracket
mounting bolt (B).
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Fig. 11: Removing Clutch Slave Cylinder

22. M/T model: Remove the shift cable (A) and select cable (B).
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Fig. 12: Removing Shift Cable

23. Disconnect the air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor connector.
Fig. 13: Disconnecting Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Connector

25. Remove the power steering (P/S) pump (A), and the P/S hose clamp (B). Do
not disconnect the P/S hoses from the pump.
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Fig. 14: Removing Power Steering (P/S) Pump (A)

26. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
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Fig. 15: Removing A/C Compressor

30. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator and drain the engine coolant (see
31. Drain the transmission fluid:
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AND REPLACEMENT )

33. Disconnect the stabilizer links (see STABILIZER LINK
REPLACEMENT ).
34. Remove the damper fork (see step 3 on REMOVAL ).
35. Separate the knuckles from the lower arm ball joints (see step 6 on LOWER
ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
36. Remove the driveshafts (see step 12 on DRIVESHAFT DISASSEMBLY ).
Coat all precision-finished surfaces with clean engine oil. Tie plastic bags over
the driveshaft ends.
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Fig. 16: Removing Exhaust Pipe

38. A/T model: Remove the three bolts securing the shift cable holder (A), then
remove the shift cable cover (B).
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Fig. 17: Removing Shift Cable Cover

39. A/T model: Remove the spring clip (C) and control pin (D), then separate the
shift cable (E) from the control lever (F). Do not bend the cable excessively.
lower rear mount.
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Fig. 18: Removing Spring Clip And Control Pin

41. Lower the vehicle on the lift.

42. A/T model: Remove the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) cooler hoses, then
plug the line and the hoses.
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Fig. 19: Removing Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Cooler Hoses

43. Remove the upper radiator hose (A) and heater hoses (B).
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Fig. 20: Removing Upper Radiator Hose (A) And Heater Hoses
radiator hose.
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Fig. 21: Cleaning Any Dirt Quick Connector

45. Pull out the lock (B) by hand, then wiggle the quick connector loose, and
remove it from the thermostat cover. Do not use any tools to remove the quick
connector.
46. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the upper bracket (B).
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Fig. 22: Removing Ground Cable

47. Attach the chain hoist to the engine as shown below.
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Fig. 23: Attaching Chain Hoist To Engine

48. M/T model: Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the transmission upper
mount/bracket assembly (B) and clutch line clamp bracket (C).
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Fig. 24: Removing Ground Cable & Upper Mount/Bracket Assy (MT)
49. A/T model: Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the transmission upper
mount/bracket assembly (B).
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Fig. 25: Removing Ground Cable & Upper Mount/Bracket Assy (AT)
50. M/T model: Remove the front mount stop (A), then remove the front mount
bolt (B).
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Fig. 26: Removing Front Mount Stop (MT)

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51. A/T model: Remove the vacuum hose (A) from the vacuum line. Remove the
front mount stop (B) and vacuum hose clamp bracket (C), then remove the
front mount bolt (D).
Fig. 27: Removing Vacuum Hose (A) From Vacuum Line (AT)
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52. Remove the rear mount stop (A), then remove the rear mount bolt (B).
Fig. 28: Removing Rear Mount Stop

53. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel
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and coolant hoses, and electrical wiring.

54. Slowly lower the engine/transmission assembly about 150 mm (6 in.). Check
once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the
engine/transmission.
55. Raise the engine/transmission assembly from under the vehicle.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
1. Install the accessory brackets and tighten their bolts to the specified torques.
Fig. 29: Installing Accessory Brackets

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2. Install the engine/transmission assembly into position in the vehicle, then
remove the chain hoist from the engine.
NOTE: Reinstall the mounting bolts/support nuts in the

sequence given. Failure to follow this sequence may
cause excessive noise and vibration, and reduce
bushing life.
3. M/T model: Tighten the front mount bolt (A), then install the front mount stop
(B).
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4. A/T model: Tighten the front mount bolt (A), then install the front mount stop
(B) and vacuum hose clamp bracket (C). Install vacuum hose (D).
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5. Tighten the rear mount bolt (A), then install the rear mount stop (B).
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Fig. 32: Tightening Rear Mount Bolt

6. Install the upper bracket (A), then tighten the bolts in the numbered sequence
shown below.
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Fig. 33: Installing Upper Bracket


8. M/T model: Loosen the mount bolt (A), then install the transmission upper
mount/bracket assembly (B), clutch line clamp bracket (C), and ground cable
(D).
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Fig. 34: Loosening Mount Bolt

9. A/T model: Loosen the mount bolt (A) and bracket plate mounting bolts (B),
then install the transmission upper mount/bracket assembly (C), and ground
cable (D).
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Fig. 35: Loosening Mount Bolt (A) And Bracket Plate Mounting Bolts
10. M/T model: Tighten the transmission upper mount bolt.
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Fig. 36: Tightening Transmission Upper Mount Bolt

11. A/T model: Tighten the transmission upper mount bracket plate mounting bolts
(A), then tighten the transmission upper mount bolt (B).
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Fig. 37: Tightening Transmission Upper Mount Bracket Plate Mounting

Bolts
12. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height.
13. Tighten the nuts securing the transmission lower front mount and transmission
lower rear mount.
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Fig. 38: Tightening Nuts Securing Transmission Lower Front Mount

14. A/T model: Install the shift control cable (A).
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Fig. 39: Installing Shift Control Cable

15. A/T model: Install the shift cable cover (B), then install the shift cable holder
(C).
16. Install exhaust pipe A. Use new gaskets (B) and new self locking nuts (C).
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Fig. 40: Installing Exhaust Pipe A

17. Install a new set ring on the end of each driveshaft, then install the driveshafts.
Make sure each ring "clicks" into place in the differential and intermediate
shaft.
18. Connect the suspension lower arm ball joints (see step 8 on LOWER ARM
19. Install the damper fork (see step 2 on INSTALLATION ).
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20. Connect the stabilizer links (see STABILIZER LINK REPLACEMENT ).

Fig. 41: Checking Quick Connector And Set Ring

groove.
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cover until you hear it click.
Fig. 42: Pushing Down Lock

28. Install the upper radiator hose (A) and heater hoses (B).
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Fig. 43: Installing Upper Radiator Hose

29. A/T model: Install the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) cooler hoses.
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Fig. 44: Installing Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Cooler Hoses

30. Install the A/C compressor.
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Fig. 45: Installing A/C Compressor

31. Install the power steering (P/S) pump (A), and the P/S hose clamp (B).
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Fig. 46: Installing Power Steering (P/S) Pump (A)


33. Connect the air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor connector.
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Fig. 47: Connecting Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Connector

34. M/T model: Install the select cable (A) with the plastic washers (B) washers
(C), and new cotter pins (D).
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Fig. 48: Installing Select Cable (A) And Shift Cable

35. M/T model: Install the clutch slave cylinder (A) and clutch line bracket
mounting bolt (B).
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Fig. 49: Installing Clutch Slave Cylinder

36. '06-07 models: Push the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control
module (PCM) connectors through the bulkhead, then install the grommet (A)
and harness clamps (B).
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Fig. 50: Installing Grommet And Harness Clamps

37. Connect the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor connector (C).
38. '03-05 models: Connect the engine wire harness connectors (A), then install the
harness clamp (B).
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Fig. 51: Connecting Engine Wire Harness Connectors

39. '06-07 models: Connect the ECM/PCM connectors (A) and main wire harness
connectors (B).
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Fig. 52: Connecting ECM/PCM Connectors

vacuum hose (B).
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41. Connect the fuel feed hose (see FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
INSTALLATION ), then install the quick-connect fitting cover (A). Make
sure the connector engages fully.
Fig. 54: Installing Quick-Connect Fitting Cover

42. '03-05 models: Install the throttle cable (see THROTTLE BODY
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ), then adjust the cable (see THROTTLE
CABLE ADJUSTMENT ).
43. '03-05 models: Install the cruise control actuator cable (see CRUISE
CONTROL ACTUATOR/CABLE REPLACEMENT ), then adjust it (see
CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR CABLE ADJUSTMENT ).
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44. '06-07 models: Install the strut brace (A), then install the harness clamp (B) and
bolt (C).
Fig. 55: Installing Strut Brace

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45. Connect the harness connector (A).
Fig. 56: Connecting Harness Connector

46. Install the under-hood fuse/relay box (B), then install the battery cables (C).
47. Install the battery base (A), then install the harness clamp (B).
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Fig. 57: Installing Battery Base

48. Install the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER

49. Install the intake air duct (A), and install the vacuum hose (B), and breather
pipe (C).
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50. Except '03-04 SULEV, LX-P models, and '05-07 models: Connect the intake
air temperature (IAT) sensor connector (D).
53. A/T model: Move the shift lever to each gear, and verify that the A/T gear
position indicator follows the transmission range switch.
54. M/T model: Check that the transmission shift into gear smoothly.
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55. Inspect for fuel leaks. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) (do not operate the
point in the fuel line. ).
56. Refill the engine with engine oil (see step 4 on ENGINE OIL
REPLACEMENT .
57. Refill the transmission with fluid:
AND REPLACEMENT )
Automatic transmission (see ATF REPLACEMENT ).
with the heater valve open (see step 7 on COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
59. Do the ECM/PCM reset procedure (see HDS CLEAR COMMAND ).
60. Do the crankshaft position (CPK) pattern clear/CPK pattern learn procedure
63. Check the wheel alignment (see WHEEL ALIGNMENT ).
64. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio unit (and the navigation code if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
65. Set the clock.
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2003-07 ENGINE Engine Block - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Engine Block - Accord (V6)
SPECIAL TOOLS

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Fig. 2: Locating Engine Block Components (1 Of 3)

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CONNECTING ROD AND CRANKSHAFT END PLAY INSPECTION
1. Remove the oil pump (see REMOVAL ).

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2. Remove the baffle plate (see step 11 ).

3. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge (A) between the
connecting rod (B) and crankshaft (C).
Connecting Rod End Play
Fig. 5: Measuring Connecting Rod End Play

4. If the connecting rod end play is out-of-tolerance, install a new connecting rod
and recheck. If it is still out-of-tolerance, replace the crankshaft (see step 12 ).
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5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial
against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward
the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit.
Crankshaft End Play

Fig. 6: Measuring Crankshaft End Play

6. If the end play is excessive, replace the thrust washers and recheck. If it is still
out-of-tolerance, replace the crankshaft (see step 12 ).
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT
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MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Remove the main caps and bearing halves (see OIL PAN REMOVAL).
2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal.
NOTE: If the engine is still in the vehicle when you bolt the
main cap down to check the clearance, the weight of
the crankshaft and drive plate will flatten the plastigage
further than just the torque on the cap bolt and give you
an incorrect reading. For an accurate reading, support
the crank with a jack under the counterweights, and
check only one bearing at a time.
4. Reinstall the bearings and caps, then torque the bearing cap bolts to 74 N.m
(7.5 kgf.m, 54 lbf.ft), and the bearing cap side bolts to 49 N.m (5.0 kgf.m, 36
lbf.ft) in the proper sequence (see step 21 ).
NOTE: Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
5. Remove the cap and bearing half, and measure the widest part of the
plastigage.
Main Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance

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Fig. 7: Measuring Main Bearing-To-Journal Oil Clearance

6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and
remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the
same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the
bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or
smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check again. If
the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or
smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.
MAIN BEARING SELECTION
Crankshaft Bore Code Location
Letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the block as a code for the size of
each of the four main journal bores.
Use them, and the numbers stamped on the crankshaft (codes for main journal size),
to choose the correct bearings. If the codes are indecipherable because of an
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accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean
them only with solvent or detergent.
Fig. 8: Locating Crankshaft Bore Code

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Fig. 9: Bearing Identification Color Code Chart

Main journal code locations (Numbers or Bars)
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Fig. 10: Identifying Main Journal Code Locations (Numbers Or Bars)

CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT
ROD BEARING CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Remove the connecting rod cap and bearing half (see OIL PAN REMOVAL).
2. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
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3. Place a strip of plastigage across the rod journal.

4. Reinstall the bearing half and cap, and torque the bolts.
Tightening torque: 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft) + 90
Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads.
5. Remove the rod cap and bearing half, and measure the widest part of the
plastigage.
Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance

Fig. 11: Measuring Connecting Rod Bearing-To-Journal Oil Clearance

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6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the
bearing, then install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and
recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to
adjust clearance.
smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check clearance
again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate
larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.
ROD BEARING SELECTION
Each rod falls into one of four tolerance ranges (from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in.), in
0.006 mm (0.0002 in.) increments) depending on the size of its big end bore. It's
then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the
range. You may find any combination of 1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII in any engine.
Normal Bore Size: 56.0 mm (2.20 in.)
Inspect the connecting rod for cracks and heat damage.

Connecting Rod Journal Code Locations
Numbers or bars have been stamped on the side of each connecting rod as a code
for the size of the big end. Use them, and the letters or bars stamped on the crank
(codes for rod journal size), to choose the correct bearings. If the codes are
indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with
a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
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Fig. 12: Identifying Connecting Rod Journal Code Locations

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Fig. 13: Bearing Identification And Color Code Chart

Connecting rod journal code locations Letters or Bars)
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Fig. 14: Identifying Connecting Rod Journal Code Locations (Letters Or Bars)
OIL PAN REMOVAL
1. If the engine is out of the vehicle, go to step 5.

4. Remove exhaust pipe A (see step 40 in ENGINE REMOVAL ).
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5. Remove the torque converter cover (A) and the two bolts (B) securing the
transmission.
Fig. 15: Removing Torque Converter Cover

6. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.

7. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the block in the places
shown in Fig. 16.
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Fig. 16: Separating Oil Pan From Block

8. Remove the oil pan.

CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL
1. Remove the engine assembly (see ENGINE REMOVAL ).

2. Remove the transmission:
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3. M/T model: Remove the pressure plate (see PRESSURE PLATE AND
CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL ), clutch disc (see PRESSURE PLATE AND
CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL ), and flywheel (see FLYWHEEL AND
PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT ).
4. A/T model: Remove the drive plate (see DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
5. Remove the cylinder heads (see CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL ).
6. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (see CKP SENSOR
REPLACEMENT ).
7. Remove the timing belt drive pulley from the crankshaft.
8. Remove the oil pan (see OIL PAN REMOVAL).
9. Remove the engine block end cover.
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Fig. 17: Removing Engine Block End Cover

10. Remove the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve)/oil filter
assembly.
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Fig. 18: Removing Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid (VTEC Solenoid
Valve)/Oil Filter Assembly
11. Remove the oil screen (A), baffle plate (B), and oil pump(C).
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Fig. 19: Removing Oil Screen, Baffle Plate And Oil Pump
12. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of any cylinder,
remove it with a ridge reamer (A). Follow the reamer manufacturer's
instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are
pushed out.
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Fig. 20: Removing Cylinder With Ridge Reamer

13. Remove the bearing from the cap. Keep all caps/ bearings in order.
14. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside
with their respective caps.
15. Remove the connecting rod caps after setting the crank pin at bottom dead
center (BDC) for each cylinder. Remove the piston assembly by pushing on the
connecting rod. Take care not to damage the crank pin or cylinder with the
connecting rod.
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Fig. 21: Identifying Correct Way Of Removing Piston Assembly

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Fig. 22: Identifying Incorrect Way Of Removing Piston Assembly

16. After removing a piston/connecting rod assembly, reinstall the cap on the rod.
17. To avoid confusion during reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod
assembly with its cylinder number.
18. Unscrew the bearing cap bolts and bearing cap side bolts in sequence 1/3 turn
at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
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Fig. 23: Removing Bearing Caps Bolts And Bearing Cap Side Bolts In
Sequence
19. Remove the bearing cap bolts (A) and bearing cap side bolts (B), then remove
the bearing cap (C).
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Fig. 24: Removing Bearing Cap Bolts And Bearing Cap Side Bolts
20. Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine block, being careful not to damage the
journals.
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Fig. 25: Lifting Crankshaft Out Of Engine Block

21. Reinstall the main caps and bearings on the engine block in the proper order.
CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
OUT-OF-ROUND AND TAPER
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1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see OIL PAN REMOVAL).
2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush.
3. Check the keyway and threads.
4. Measure out-of-round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places.
The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than
the service limit.
Journal Out-of-Round

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Fig. 26: Measuring Out-Of-Journal

5. Measure taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference
between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit.
Journal Taper
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Straightness
6. Place the engine block on the surface plate.

7. Clean and install the bearings on the No. 1 and No. 4 journal of the engine
block.
8. Lower the crankshaft into the block.
9. Measure the runout on all of the main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two
complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal
must not be more than the service limit.
Crankshaft Total Runout
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Fig. 27: Measuring Crankshaft Total Runout

BLOCK AND PISTON INSPECTION
1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see OIL PAN REMOVAL).
2. Check the piston for distortion or cracks.
3. Measure the piston diameter at a point 16.0 mm (0.63 in.) from the bottom of
the skirt.
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Piston Diameter
Oversize Piston Diameter
0.25: 86.225-86.235 mm (3.3947-3.3951 in.)

0.50: 86.475-86.485 mm (3.4045-3.4049 in.)
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Fig. 28: Measuring Piston Diameter

4. Measure wear and taper in direction X and Y at three levels in each cylinder as
shown in Fig. 29. If measurements in any cylinder are beyond the oversize
bore service limit, replace the block. If the block has to be rebored, refer to step
7 after reboring.
Cylinder Bore Size

Oversize
0.25: 86.250-86.265 mm (3.3957-3.3963 in.)

0.50: 86.500-86.515 mm (3.4055-3.4061 in.)
Reboring Limit: 0.5 mm (0.02 in.)
Bore Taper
Limit: (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.05 mm

(0.002 in.)
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Fig. 29: Identifying Cylinder Bore Sizes

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5. Scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed (see CYLINDER BORE

HONING).
6. Check the top of the engine block for warpage. Measure along the edges and
across the center as shown in Fig. 30.
Engine Block Warpage
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Fig. 30: Checking Top Of Engine Block For Warpage

7. Calculate the difference between cylinder bore diameter and piston diameter. If
the clearance is near or exceeds the service limit, inspect the piston and engine
block for excessive wear.
Piston-to-Cylinder Bore Clearance

Fig. 31: Identifying Piston-To-Cylinder Bore Clearance

CYLINDER BORE HONING
1. Measure the cylinder bores (see step 4 ). If the engine block is to be reused,
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hone the cylinders and remeasure the bores. Only scored or scratched cylinder
bores must be honed.
2. Hone the cylinder bores with honing oil and a fine (400 grit) stone in a 60
degree Crosshatch pattern.
NOTE: Use only a rigid hone with 400 grit or finer stone,
such as Sunnen, Ammco, or equivalent.
Do not use stones that are worn or broken.
Fig. 32: Identifying Cylinder Bore Honing Angle

3. When honing is complete, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal
particles. Wash the cylinder bores with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them
immediately to prevent rusting. Never use solvent, it will only redistribute the
grit on the cylinder walls.
4. If scoring or scratches are still present in the cylinder bores after honing to the
service limit, rebore the engine block. Some light vertical scoring and
scratching is acceptable if it is not deep enough to catch your fingernail and
does not run the full length of the bore.
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PISTON, PIN, AND CONNECTING ROD REPLACEMENT

DISASSEMBLY
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A) and turn them in the ring
grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores
(B).
NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
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Fig. 33: Applying Engine Oil To Piston Pin Snap Rings

3. Remove snap rings (A) from both sides of the piston. Start at the cutout in the
piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get
lost. Wear eye protection.
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Fig. 34: Removing Snap Rings From Piston

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4. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158F (70C), then
remove the piston pin.
Fig. 35: Heating Piston And Connecting Rod Assembly

INSPECTION
NOTE: Inspect the piston, piston pin, and connecting rod when
they are at room temperature.
1. Measure the diameter of the piston pin.

Piston Pin Diameter

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Fig. 36: Measuring Piston Pin Diameter

2. Zero the dial indicator to the piston pin diameter.
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Fig. 37: Zeroing Dial Indicator To Piston Pin Diameter

3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and piston pin hole
diameter on the piston.
Piston Pin-to-Piston Clearance

Standard (New): -0.0050 to +0.0010 mm (-0.00020 to +0.00004 in.)
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Fig. 38: Checking Difference Between Piston Pin & Piston Hole Diameter
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4. Measure the piston pin-to-connecting rod clearance.

Piston Pin-to-Connecting Rod Clearance

Fig. 39: Checking Piston Pin-To-Connecting Rod Clearance

REASSEMBLY
1. Install a piston pin snap ring (A).

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Fig. 40: Installing Piston Pin Snap Ring

2. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the
piston pin with new engine oil.
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3. Heat the piston to about 158F (70C).
Fig. 41: Heating Piston

4. Assemble the piston (A) and connecting rod (B) with the embossed marks (C)
on the same side. Install the piston pin (D).
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Fig. 42: Assembling Piston And Connecting Rod With Embossed Marks
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5. Install the remaining snap ring.

PISTON RING REPLACEMENT
2. Using a ring expander (A), remove the old piston rings (B).
Fig. 43: Removing Old Piston Rings Using Ring Expander

3. Clean all the ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring, or a ring
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groove cleaner with a blade to fit the piston grooves. File down the blade, if
necessary.
The top ring and second ring grooves are 1.2 mm (0.05 in.) wide, and the oil
ring groove is 2.8 mm (0.11 in.) wide.
Do not use a wire brush to clean the ring grooves, or cut the ring grooves
deeper with the cleaning tool.
NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod,

do not install new rings yet.
4. Using a piston, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15-20 mm (0.6-0.8
in.) from the bottom.
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Fig. 44: Pushing Ring Into Cylinder Bore Using Piston

5. Measure the piston ring end-gap (B) with a feeler gauge:

If the gap is too small, check to see if you have the proper rings for your
engine.
If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear
limits (see step 4 ). If the bore is over the service limit, the engine block
must be rebored.
Piston Ring End-Gap
Top Ring:
Second Ring:

Oil Ring:

6. Install the rings as shown in Fig. 45. The top ring (A) has a 1A mark and the
second ring (B) has a 2B mark. The manufacturing marks (C) must be facing
upward.
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Fig. 45: Installing Piston Rings

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7. After installing a new set of rings, measure the ring-to-groove clearance:

Top Ring Clearance

Second Ring Clearance

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Fig. 46: Measuring Ring-To-Groove Clearance

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8. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
9. Position the ring end gaps as shown in Fig. 47:
Fig. 47: Positioning Ring End Gaps

CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON INSTALLATION
Driver 07749-0010000
Driver attachment, 106 mm 070AD-RCAA200
1. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with plastigage (see

CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT).
2. Check the main bearing clearance with plastigage (see CRANKSHAFT
MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT).
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3. Install the bearing halves in the engine block and connecting rods.
4. Apply new engine oil to inside of the main bearings and rod bearings.
5. Lower the crankshaft (A) into the engine block.
Fig. 48: Lowering Crankshaft Into Block

6. Apply new engine oil to the side with the thrust washer groove. Install the
thrust washers (A) in the No. 3 journal.
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Fig. 49: Installing Thrust Washers In No. 3 Journal

7. Install the bearings (A) and bearing caps (B) with the arrow (C) facing the
timing belt end of the engine.
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Fig. 50: Installing Bearings And Bearing Caps With Arrow Facing Timing
Belt End
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8. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges, then loosely install the
bearing cap bolts (D) and bearing cap side bolts (E).
9. Set the crankshaft to bottom dead center (BDC) for the cylinder you are
installing the piston in.
10. Apply new engine oil to the piston, inside of the ring compressor, and the
cylinder bore.
11. Attach the ring compressor to the piston/ connecting rod assembly, and check
that the bearing is securely in place.
12. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly with the arrow (A) facing the
timing belt side of the engine.
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Fig. 51: Positioning Piston/Connecting Rod Assembly With Arrow Facing

Timing Belt
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13. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, and tap it in using
the wooden handle of a hammer (A). Maintain downward force on the ring
compressor (B) to prevent the rings from expanding before entering the
cylinder bore.
Fig. 52: Tapping Piston/Connecting Rod Assembly Using Wooden Handle

Of Hammer
14. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-
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crank journal alignment before pushing the piston into place.

15. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.
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Fig. 53: Measuring Diameter Of Connecting Rod Bolt

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16. Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B.
Point A-Point B = Difference in Diameter
Difference in Diameter
Specification: 0-0.1 mm (0-0.004 in.)
17. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt.
18. Line up the mark (A) on the connecting rod and cap, then install the cap.
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Fig. 54: Lining Mark On Connecting Rod And Cap

19. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Torque the bolts (B) to 20
N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft).
20. Mark the connecting rod (A) and bolt head (B) as shown in Fig. 55.
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Fig. 55: Marking Connecting Rod And Bolt Head

21. Tighten the bolt until the mark on the bolt head lines up with the mark on the
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connecting rod (turn the bolt 90).
NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it

beyond the specified angle, and go back to step 15 of
the procedure. Do not loosen it back to the specified
angle.
22. Tighten the bearing cap bolts, and then the bearing cap side bolts to the
specified torque in the sequence as shown in Fig. 56. Repeat the torque
sequence again to measure the bolts are properly torqued.
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Fig. 56: Tightening Bearing Cap Bolts And Cap Side Bolts In Sequence
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23. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the crankshaft and to the lip of the
seal.
24. Drive the new crankshaft oil seal until the driver attachment bottoms on the
engine block end cover.
Fig. 57: Driving Crankshaft Oil Seal

25. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the engine block end cover mating
surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes.
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26. Clean and dry the engine block end cover mating surfaces.
27. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004,08718-0001, 08718-0002, 08718-0003,
or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the engine block
end cover.

the liquid gasket.
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Fig. 58: Applying Liquid Gasket To Engine Block Mating Surface Of

Engine Block End Cover
28. Install the dowel pins (A), new O-ring (B), and the engine block end cover (C)
on the engine block.
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Fig. 59: Installing Dowel Pins, New O-Ring, And Engine Block End Cover
On Engine Block
29. Clean the excess grease off the crankshaft, and check the seal for distortion.
30. Install a new crankshaft oil seal in the oil pump (see step 2
INSTALLATION ).
31. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pump mating surfaces, bolts,
and bolt holes.
32. Clean and dry the oil pump mating surfaces.
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33. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0002,08718- 0003,

or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the oil pump.

the liquid gasket.
Fig. 60: Applying Liquid Gasket To Engine Block Mating Surface Of Oil
Pump
34. Grease the lip of the oil seal, and apply oil to the new O-ring (A).
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Fig. 61: Greasing Oil Seal Lip

35. Install the dowel pins (B), then align the inner rotor with the crankshaft, and
install the oil pump (C).
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36. Clean the excess grease off the crankshaft, and check the seal for distortion.
37. Install the baffle plate (D), then install the oil screen (E) with new O-ring (F).
38. Install the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve)/oil filter
assembly (A), with a new rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid
valve) filter (B).
Fig. 62: Installing Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid (VTEC Solenoid
Valve)/Oil Filter Assembly
39. Install the oil pan (see OIL PAN INSTALLATION).
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40. Install the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (see CKP SENSOR
REPLACEMENT ).
41. Install the cylinder heads (see CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION ).
42. M/T model: Install the flywheel (see FLYWHEEL AND PILOT BEARING
INSPECTION ), clutch disc (see PRESSURE PLATE AND CLUTCH
DISC REMOVAL ), and pressure plate (see PRESSURE PLATE AND
CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL ).
43. A/T model: Install the drive plate (see DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
44. Install the transmission:
Manual transmission (see TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION )
Automatic transmission (see TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION )
45. Install the engine assembly (see ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
NOTE: When any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is

replaced, after assembly it is necessary to run the
engine at idling speed until it reaches normal operating
temperature, then continue to run it for about 15
minutes.
OIL PAN INSTALLATION
1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, bolts, and
bolt holes.
2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
or 08718-0009, evenly to the oil pan mating surface of the engine block.

the liquid gasket.
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Fig. 63: Applying Liquid Gasket To Oil Pan Mating Surface

4. Install the oil pan on the engine block.
5. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in
sequence, to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft).
NOTE: After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling

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the engine with oil.
Fig. 64: Tightening Oil Pan Bolts In Sequence

6. Tighten the two bolts (A) securing the transmission, then install the torque
converter cover (B).
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Fig. 65: Tightening Bolts Securing Transmission

7. If the engine is still in the vehicle, do the following steps.

8. Install exhaust pipe A using new gaskets and new self-locking nuts (see step 28
in ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
9. Install the splash shield (see step 34 in ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
10. Refill the engine with oil (see step 4 in ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT ).
PULLEY END CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL INSTALLATION - IN CAR

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Oil seal driver, 64 mm 070AD-RCA0100

1. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor, timing belt, and timing belt
drive pulley (see TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the pulley and crankshaft oil seal.
3. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing.
seal.
5. Using the seal driver, drive in the crankshaft oil seal until the driver bottoms
against the oil pump. When the seal is in place, clean any excess grease off the
crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
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Fig. 66: Driving In Crankshaft Oil Seal Using Seal Driver

6. Install the timing belt drive pulley, CKP sensor, and timing belt (see TIMING
BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT ).
TRANSMISSION END CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL INSTALLATION - IN CAR
Driver 07749-0010000
Driver attachment 106 070AD-RCAA200

2. M/T model: Removal the pressure plate (see PRESSURE PLATE AND
CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL ), clutch disc (see PRESSURE PLATE AND
CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL ), and flywheel (see FLYWHEEL AND
PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT ).
3. A/T model: Removal the drive plate (see DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
seal.
6. Using the special tools, drive in the crankshaft oil seal until the driver
attachment bottoms against the engine block end cover. Align the hole in the
driver attachment with the pin on the crankshaft.
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Fig. 67: Driving Crankshaft Oil Seal Using Special Tools

7. Clean any excess grease off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not
distorted.
8. M/T model: Install the flywheel (see FLYWHEEL AND PILOT BEARING
INSPECTION ), clutch disc (see PRESSURE PLATE AND CLUTCH
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DISC REMOVAL ), and pressure plate (see PRESSURE PLATE AND

CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL ).
INSTALLATION ).
DRAIN BOLT INSTALLATION
NOTE: When installing the drain bolt, always use new washer.
Fig. 68: Installing Drain Bolt

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2003-07 ENGINE Engine Block - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Engine Block - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS

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Fig. 2: Identifying Engine Block Component Location (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 3: Identifying Engine Block Component Location (2 Of 2)

CONNECTING ROD AND CRANKSHAFT END PLAY INSPECTION
1. Remove the oil pump (see OIL PUMP REMOVAL ).

2. Remove the baffle plates (see step 8 ).
3. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge between the
connecting rod and crankshaft.
Connecting Rod End Play
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Fig. 4: Measuring Connecting Rod End Play With A Feeler Gauge

4. If the connecting rod end play is out-of-tolerance, install a new connecting rod,
and recheck. If it is still out-of-tolerance; replace the crankshaft (see step 9 ).
5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial
against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward
the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit.
Crankshaft End Play
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Fig. 5: Pushing Crankshaft Firmly Away From Dial Indicator

6. If the end play is out-of-tolerance, replace the thrust washers and recheck, if it
is still out-of-tolerance, replace the crankshaft (see step 9 ).
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT
MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. To check main bearing-to-journal oil clearance, remove the lower block and
bearing halves (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL ).
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2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal.
4. Reinstall the bearing half and lower block, then torque the bolts to 29 N.m (3.0
kgf.m, 22 lbf.ft) + 56 in the proper sequence (see step 18 ).
5. Remove the lower block and bearing half again, and measure the widest part of
the plastigage.
Main Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance No. 1,2,4,5 Journals:
Standard (New): 0.017 - 0.041 mm (0.0007 - 0.0016 in.)
No. 3 Journal:
Standard (New): 0.025 - 0.049 mm (0.0010 - 0.0019 in.)
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Fig. 6: Measuring Widest Part Of Plastigage

6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and
remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the
same color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the
bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check again. If
the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or
smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.
MAIN BEARING SELECTION
Crankshaft Bore Code Location
1. Numbers or letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the block as a code
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for the size of each of the five main journal bores. Write down the crank bore
codes.
If you can't read the codes because of accumulated dirt and dust, do not scrub
them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
Fig. 7: Identifying Crankshaft Bore Code Location

Main Journal Code Location

2. The main journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.
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Fig. 8: Identifying Main Journal Code Location

3. Use the crank bore codes and crank journal codes to select the appropriate
replacement bearings from the following table.
NOTE: Color code is on the edge of the bearing.

When using bearing halves of different colors, it
does not matter which color is used in the top or
bottom.
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Fig. 9: Identifying Crank Bore Codes And Crank Journal Codes

CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT
ROD BEARING CLEARANCE INSPECTION

2. Remove the baffle plates (see step 8 ).
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3. Remove the connecting rod cap and bearing half.

4. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
5. Place plastigage across the rod journal.
6. Reinstall the bearing half and cap, and torque the bolts to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m,
14 lbf.ft) + 90.
7. Remove the rod cap and bearing half, and measure the widest part of the
plastigage.
Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance
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Fig. 10: Measuring Widest Part Of Plastigage

8. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the
bearing, install a new, complete bearing with the same color code(s), and
recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to
adjust clearance.
smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check clearance
again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate
larger or smaller bearing, replace the crankshaft and start over.
ROD BEARING SELECTION
1. Inspect each connecting rod for cracks and heat damage.

Connecting Rod Big End Bore Code Locations
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2. Each rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in.), in 0.006 mm
(0.0002 in.) increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It's then
stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3 or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the range.
You may find any combination of numbers and bars in any engine. (Half the
number or bar is stamped on the bearing cap, the other half is on the rod.)
If you can't read the code because of an accumulation of oil and varnish, do not
scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent.
Normal Bore Size: 51.0 mm (2.01 in.)
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Fig. 11: Identifying Connecting Rod Big End Bore Code Locations
Connecting Rod Journal Code Location

3. The connecting rod journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.
Connecting Rod Journal Code Location (Letters or Bars)
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Fig. 12: Identifying Connecting Rod Journal Code Location

4. Use the big end bore codes and rod journal codes to select appropriate
replacement bearings from the following table.
NOTE: The color code is on the edge of the bearing.

When using bearing halves of different colors, it
does not matter which color is used in the top or
bottom.
Fig. 13: Identifying Big End Bore Codes And Rod Journal Codes
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OIL PAN REMOVAL
1. If the engine is out of the vehicle, go to step 19.

3. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio unit (and navigation code
if equipped), then write down the audio preset.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly (see AIR CLEANER
6. Remove the harness clamp. Remove the two bolts, and loosen the two bolts
securing the battery base, then remove the battery base (see step 9 on ENGINE
REMOVAL ).
7. Remove the clutch slave cylinder, and clutch line bracket mounting bolt (M/T)
(see step 21 on ENGINE REMOVAL ).
8. Remove the ground cable, then remove the transmission upper mount/bracket
assembly:
Manual transmission (see step 48 on ENGINE REMOVAL )
Automatic transmission (see step 49 on ENGINE REMOVAL )
9. Remove the front mount stop, then remove the front mount bolt (see step 50 on
ENGINE REMOVAL ).
10. Remove the rear mount stop, then remove the rear mount bolt (see step 52 on
ENGINE REMOVAL ).
13. Disconnect the stabilizer links (see STABILIZER LINK
REPLACEMENT ).
14. Remove the left side damper fork (see REMOVAL ).
15. Disconnect the left side suspension lower arm ball joint (see LOWER ARM
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16. Remove the left side driveshaft (see step 12 on DRIVESHAFT

DISASSEMBLY ). Coat all precision-finished surfaces with clean engine oil.
Tie plastic bag over the driveshaft end.
lower rear mount (see step 40 on ENGINE REMOVAL ).
18. Use a transmission jack to lift the transmission 40-55 mm (1.6-2.2 in.).
Fig. 14: Using A Transmission Jack To Lift Transmission

19. Remove the stiffener.
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Fig. 15: Removing Stiffener

20. Remove the bolts/nuts securing the oil pan.
21. Drive an oil pan seal cutter between the oil pan and engine block.
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Fig. 16: Driving An Oil Pan Seal Cutter Between Oil Pan And Engine
Block
22. Cut the oil pan seal by striking the side of the cutter to slide the cutter along the
oil pan.
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Fig. 17: Cutting Oil Pan Seal By Striking Side Of Cutter

23. Remove the oil pan.

CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL
1. Remove the engine assembly (see ENGINE REMOVAL ).

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CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL ), clutch disc (see CLUTCH
REPLACEMENT ), and flywheel (see FLYWHEEL INSPECTION ).
INSTALLATION ).
5. Remove the oil pan (see OIL PAN REMOVAL ).
8. Remove the baffle plates.
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Fig. 18: Removing Baffle Plates

9. Remove the 8 mm bolts.
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Fig. 19: Removing Bolts

10. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in
sequence 1/3 turn at a time: repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
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Fig. 20: Removing Bearing Cap Bolts

11. Remove the lower block and bearings. Keep all bearings in order.
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Fig. 21: Removing Lower Block And Bearings

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12. Remove the rod caps/bearings. Keep all caps/ bearings in order.
13. Lift the crankshaft out of the engine, being careful not to damage the journals.
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Fig. 22: Lifting Crankshaft Out Of Engine

14. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside
with their respective caps.
15. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder,
remove it with a ridge reamer (A). Follow the reamer manufacturer's
instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are
pushed out.
Fig. 23: Removing Upper Bearing Halves From Connecting Rods

16. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the pistons (B).
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Fig. 24: Driving Out Pistons

17. To avoid mixup on reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly

with its cylinder number.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not

indicate its position in the engine, it indicates the rod
bore size.
18. Reinstall the connecting rod bearings and caps after removing each
piston/connecting rod assembly.
19. Reinstall the lower block and bearings on the engine in the proper order.
CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
OUT-OF-ROUND AND TAPER
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1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see CRANKSHAFT AND
PISTON REMOVAL ).
2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush.
3. Clean the keyway and threads.
4. Measure out-of round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places.
The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than
the service limit.
Journal Out-of-Round

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Fig. 25: Measuring Out-Of Round At Middle Of Each Rod And Main
Journal
5. Measure taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference
between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit.
Journal Taper
Straightness
6. Place the engine block on the surface plate.

7. Clean and install the bearings on the No. 1 and No. 5 journals of the engine
block.
8. Lower the crankshaft into the block.
9. Measure the runout on all of the main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two
complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal
must not be more than the service limit.
Crankshaft Total Runout
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Fig. 26: Measuring Runout On All Of Main Journals

BLOCK AND PISTON INSPECTION
1. Remove the crankshaft and pistons (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON

REMOVAL ).
2. Check the piston for distortion or cracks.
3. Measure the piston diameter at a point 13 mm (0.5 in.) from the bottom of the
skirt. There are two standard-size pistons (No Letter or A, and B). The letter is
stamped on the top of the piston. Letters are also stamped on the block as
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cylinder bore sizes.

Piston Diameter
Standard (New):
No Letter (or A): 86.980-86.990 mm (3.4244-3.4248 in.)

B: 86.970-86.980 mm (3.4240-3.4244 in.)
Service Limit:
No Letter (or A): 86.930 mm (3.4224 in.)
B: 86.920 mm (3.4220 in.)
Oversize Piston Diameter
0.25: 87.230-87.240 mm (3.4342-3.4346 in.)
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Fig. 27: Measuring Piston Diameter At A Point 13 Mm (0.5 In.) From

Bottom Of Skirt
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4. Measure wear and taper in direction X and Y at three levels in each cylinder as
shown in Fig. 28. If measurements in any cylinder are beyond the Oversize
Bore Service Limit, replace the block. If the block is to be rebored, refer to step
7 after reboring.
Cylinder Bore Size
Standard (New):
A or I: 87.010-87.020 mm (3.4256-3.4260 in.)
B or II: 87.000-87.010 mm (3.4252-3.4256 in.)
Oversize
0.25: 87.250-87.260 mm (3.4350-3.4354 in.)
Reboring limit: 0.25 mm (0.01 in.) max.
Bore Taper
Limit: (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.05 mm (0.002

in.)
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Fig. 28: Measuring Wear And Taper In Direction X And Y

5. Scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed.

6. Check the top of the block for warpage. Measure along the edges and across
the center as shown in Fig. 29.
Engine Block Warpage
Fig. 29: Checking Top Of Block For Warpage

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Fig. 30: Identifying Precision Straight Edge

7. Calculate the difference between the cylinder bore diameter and the piston
diameter. If the clearance is near or exceeds the service limit, inspect the piston
and engine block for excessive wear.
Piston-to-Cylinder Bore Clearance

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Fig. 31: Calculating Difference Between Cylinder Bore Diameter And

Piston Diameter
CYLINDER BORE HONING
Only a scored or scratched cylinder bore must be honed.

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1. Measure the cylinder bores (see step 4 ).

If the block is to be reused, hone the cylinders and remeasure the bores. Only
scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed.
2. Hone the cylinder bores with honing oil and a fine (400 grit) stone in a 60
degree cross-hatch pattern (A).
NOTE: Use only a rigid hone with 400 grit or finer stone
such as Sunnen, Ammco, or equivalent.
Do not use stones that are worn or broken.
Fig. 32: Honing Cylinder Bores With Honing Oil And A Fine (400 Grit)
Stone
3. When honing is complete, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal
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particles. Wash the cylinder bores with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them
immediately to prevent rusting. Never use solvent, it will only redistribute the
grit on the cylinder walls.
4. If scoring or scratches are still present in the cylinder bores after honing to the
service limit, rebore the engine block. Some light vertical scoring and
scratching is acceptable if it is not deep enough to catch your fingernail and
does not run the full length of the bore.
PISTON, PIN, AND CONNECTING ROD REPLACEMENT
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see CRANKSHAFT AND
PISTON REMOVAL ).
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A), and turn them in the ring
grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores
(B).
NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
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Fig. 33: Applying Engine Oil To Piston Pin Snap Rings

3. Remove both snap rings (A). Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove
the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye
protection.
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Fig. 34: Removing Both Snap Rings

4. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158 F (70 C), then
remove the piston pin.
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Fig. 35: Heating Piston And Connecting Rod Assembly

INSPECTION
NOTE: Inspect the piston, piston pin, and connecting rod when
they are at room temperature.
1. Measure the diameter of the piston pin.

Piston Pin Diameter
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Fig. 36: Measuring Diameter Of Piston Pin

2. Zero the dial indicator to the piston pin diameter.
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Fig. 37: Zero Dial Indicator To Piston Pin Diameter

3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and piston pin hole
diameter in the piston.
Piston Pin-to-Piston Clearance

Standard (New): -0.005 to +0.002 mm (-0.00020 to +0.00008 in.)
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Fig. 38: Checking Difference Between Piston Pin Diameter And Piston Pin
Hole Diameter In Piston
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4. Measure the piston pin-to-connecting rod clearance.

Piston Pin-to-Connecting Rod Clearance

Fig. 39: Measuring Piston Pin-To-Connecting Rod Clearance

REASSEMBLY
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1. Install a piston pin snap ring (A) only on one side.
Fig. 40: Installing A Piston Pin Snap Ring

2. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the
piston pin with new engine oil.
3. Heat the piston to about 158 F (70 C).
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Fig. 41: Heating Piston To About 158F (70 C)

4. Install the piston pin (A). Assemble the piston (B) and connecting rod (C) with
the arrow (D) and the embossed mark (E) on the same side.
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Fig. 42: Installing Piston Pin

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5. Install the remaining snap ring (F).

6. Turn the snap rings in the ring grooves until the end gaps are positioned at the
bottom of the piston.
PISTON RING REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see CRANKSHAFT AND
PISTON REMOVAL ).
2. Using a ring expander (A), remove the old piston rings (B).
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Fig. 43: Removing Piston Rings

3. Clean all ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring or ring
groove cleaner with a blade to fit the piston grooves.
The top and 2nd ring grooves are 1.2 mm (0.05 in.) wide. The oil ring groove
is 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) wide. File down a blade if necessary.
Do not use a wire brush to clean the ring grooves, or cut the ring grooves
deeper with the cleaning tools.
NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod,

do not install new rings yet.
4. Using a piston, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15-20 mm (0.6-0.8
in.) from the bottom.
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Fig. 44: Pushing Ring Into Cylinder Bore

5. Measure the piston ring end-gap (B) with a feeler gauge:

If the gap is too small, check to see if you have the proper rings for your
engine.
If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear
limits (see BLOCK AND PISTON INSPECTION ). If the bore is over
the service limit, the engine block must be rebored.
Piston Ring End-Gap

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Top Ring:
Second Ring:

Oil Ring:
6. Install the top ring and second ring as shown below. The top ring (A) has a T,
1A, or 1R mark and the second ring (B) has a 2T, 2A, or 2R mark. The
manufacturing marks (C) must be facing upward.
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Fig. 45: Installing Top Ring And Second Ring

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7. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
8. Position the ring end gaps as shown below:
Fig. 46: Positioning Ring End Gaps

9. After installing a new set of rings, measure the ring-to-groove clearances:

Top Ring Clearance

Second Ring Clearance
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Fig. 47: Measuring Ring-To-Groove Clearances

PISTON INSTALLATION
IF THE CRANKSHAFT IS ALREADY INSTALLED
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1. Set the crankshaft to bottom dead center (BDC) for each cylinder.
2. Remove the connecting rod caps, then install the ring compressor. Check that
the bearing is securely in place.
3. Position the mark (A) to face the cam chain side of the engine.
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Fig. 48: Positioning Mark To Face Cam Chain Side Of Engine

4. Position the piston in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a
hammer (A).
Maintain downward force on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from
expanding before entering the cylinder bore.
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Fig. 49: Positioning Piston In Cylinder

5. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-
crank journal alignment before pushing the piston into place.
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CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT ).

7. Inspect the connecting rod bolts (see Connecting Rod Bolt Inspection ).
8. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then install the rod caps with
bearings. Torque the bolts to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft).
9. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 90.

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Fig. 50: Tightening Connecting Rod Bolts

IF THE CRANKSHAFT IS NOT INSTALLED
1. Remove the connecting rod caps, then install the ring compressor, and check
that the bearing is securely in place.
2. Position the mark (A) to face the cam chain side of the engine.
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Fig. 51: Positioning Mark

3. Position the piston in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a
hammer (A).
Maintain downward force on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from
expanding before entering the cylinder bore.
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Fig. 52: Positioning Piston In Cylinder

4. Position all pistons at top dead center (TDC).
CONNECTING ROD BOLT INSPECTION
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1. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.
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Fig. 53: Measuring Diameter Of Each Connecting Rod Bolt At Point And
Point
2. Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B.
Point A-Point B = Difference in Diameter

Difference in Diameter:
Specification: 0-0.1 mm (0-0.004 in.)
3. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt.
CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION
Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 24 x 26 mm 07746-0010700
Oil seal driver attachment 96 07ZAD-PNAA100
1. With a manual transmission, install the crankshaft end bushing when replacing
the crankshaft.
Using the special tools, drive in the crankshaft end bushing until the special
tools bottom against the crankshaft.
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Fig. 54: Driving In Crankshaft End Bushing

CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT ).
3. Check the main bearing clearance with plastigage (see CRANKSHAFT
MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT ).
4. Install the bearing halves in the engine block and connecting rods.
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5. Apply a coat of new engine oil to the main bearings and rod bearings.
6. Hold the crankshaft so rod journal No. 2 and rod journal No. 3 are straight up,
and lower the crankshaft into the block.
7. Apply new engine oil to the thrust washer surfaces. Install the thrust washers
(A) in the No. 4 journal of the engine block.
Fig. 55: Applying Engine Oil To Thrust Washer Surfaces

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8. Inspect the connecting rod bolts (see Connecting Rod Bolt Inspection ).
9. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the connecting rod bolts.
10. Seat the rod journals into connecting rod No. 1 and connecting rod No. 4. Line
up the mark (B) on the connecting rod and cap, then install the caps and bolts
finger-tight.
11. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, and seat the journals into connecting rod No.
2 and connecting rod No. 3. Line up the mark on the connecting rod and cap,
then install the caps and bolts finger-tight.
12. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft).
13. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 90.

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Fig. 56: Tightening Connecting Rod Bolts

14. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the lower block mating surfaces,
bolts, and bolt holes.
15. Clean and dry the lower block mating surfaces.
or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the lower block
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and to the inner threads of the bolt holes.

the liquid gasket.

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17. Put the lower block on the engine block.

18. Tighten the bearing cap bolts in sequence to 29 N.m (3.0 kgf.m, 22 lbf.ft).
Fig. 58: Tightening Bearing Cap Bolts

19. Tighten the bearing cap bolts an additional 56.
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Fig. 59: Tightening Bearing Cap Bolts An Additional 56

20. Tighten the 8 mm bolts in sequence to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft).

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21. Use the special tools to drive a new oil seal squarely into the block to the
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Fig. 61: Driving Oil Seal Squarely Into Block

22. Measure the distance between the engine block (A) and oil seal (B).
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Fig. 62: Measuring Distance Between Engine Block And Oil Seal
23. Install the baffle plates.
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Fig. 63: Installing Baffle Plates

24. Install the oil pump (see OIL PUMP INSTALLATION ).

25. Install the oil pan (see OIL PAN INSTALLATION ).
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26. Install the cylinder head (see CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION ).

27. M/T model: Install the flywheel (see FLYWHEEL REPLACEMENT ),
clutch disc (see CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE
INSTALLATION ), and pressure plate (see CLUTCH DISC AND
PRESSURE PLATE INSTALLATION ),
INSTALLATION ).
30. Install the engine assembly (see ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
NOTE: Whenever any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is

replaced, it is necessary after reassembly to run the
engine at idling speed until it reaches normal operating
temperature, then continue to run it for about 15
minutes.
OIL PAN INSTALLATION
1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, bolts, and
bolt holes.
2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-004, 08718-0001, 08718-0002, 8718-0003, or
08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan and to the
inner threads of the bolt holes.

the liquid gasket.
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4. Install the oil pan.

5. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in
sequence, to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft). Wipe off the excess liquid gasket
on the each side of crankshaft pulley and flywheel/drive plate.
NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine

with oil.
installing the oil pan.
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6. Install the stiffener.
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Fig. 66: Installing Stiffener

7. If the engine is still in the vehicle, do the following steps.
8. Tighten the nuts securing the transmission lower front mount and transmission
lower rear mount (see step 13 on ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
9. Install a new set ring on the end of the left side driveshaft, then install the
driveshaft. Make sure each ring "clicks" into place in the differential.
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10. Connect the left side suspension lower arm ball joint (see step 8 on LOWER
ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
11. Install the left side damper fork (see step 2 on INSTALLATION ).
12. Connect the stabilizer links (see STABILIZER LINK REPLACEMENT ).
14. Tighten the front mount bolt, then install the front mount stop (see step 3 on
ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
15. Tighten the rear mount bolt, then install the rear mount stop (see step 5 on
16. Loosen the mount bolt, then install the transmission upper mount/bracket
assembly, clutch line clamp bracket and ground cable (M/T) (see step 8 on
17. Loosen the mount bolt and bracket plate mounting bolts, then install the
transmission upper mount/bracket assembly, and ground cable (A/T) (see step
9 on ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
18. Tighten the transmission upper mount bolt (M/T) (see step 10 on ENGINE
INSTALLATION ).
19. Tighten the transmission upper mount bracket plate mounting bolts, then
tighten the transmission upper mount bolt (A/T) (see step 11 on ENGINE
INSTALLATION ).
20. Install the clutch slave cylinder and clutch line bracket mounting bolt (M/T)
(see step 35 on ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
21. Install the battery base, then install the harness clamp (see step 47 on ENGINE
INSTALLATION ).
22. Install the air cleaner assembly (see AIR CLEANER
the customer's radio station presets.
25. Set the clock.
TRANSMISSION END CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL INSTALLATION - IN CAR
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Driver 07749-0010000
Oil seal driver attachment 96 07ZAD-PNAA100
CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL ), clutch disc (see CLUTCH
REPLACEMENT ), and flywheel (see FLYWHEEL REPLACEMENT ).
INSTALLATION ).
5. Use the special tools to drive a new oil seal squarely into the block to the
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Fig. 67: Driving Oil Seal Squarely Into Block

6. Measure the distance between the engine block (A) and oil seal (B).
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Fig. 68: Measuring Distance Between Engine Block And Oil Seal
7. M/T model: Install the flywheel (see FLYWHEEL REPLACEMENT ),

clutch disc (see CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE
INSTALLATION ), and pressure plate (see CLUTCH DISC AND
PRESSURE PLATE INSTALLATION ).
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INSTALLATION ).
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2003-07 ENGINE Engine Lubrication - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Engine Lubrication - Accord (V6)
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Engine Lubrication Components

1. Check the loose of the engine oil fill

cap, oil drain bolt, and oil filter.
2. Check for oil leaks.
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3. Check for worn valve guide(s) (see

VALVE INSPECTION ) or worn
valve stem seal(s) (see VALVE,
SPRING, AND VALVE SEAL
REMOVAL ).
Excessive engine 4. Check for damaged or worn piston
oil consumption ring(s) (see PISTON RING
REPLACEMENT ).
5. Check for damaged or worn engine
internal parts (cylinder wall,
pistons, etc.) (see BLOCK AND
PISTON INSPECTION ).
An open in the
Low oil pressure 1. Do the gauge control module self-
wire between the
indicator does not diagnostic function (see SELF-
gauge control
come on with the DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
module and the
ignition switch ON 2. Oil pressure switch test (see OIL oil pressure
(II) PRESSURE SWITCH TEST). switch
1. Check the engine oil level.
2. Do the gauge control module self-
diagnostic function (see SELF-
DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
3. Test the oil pressure switch (see A wire shorted
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH to ground
TEST). between the
Low oil pressure
gauge control
indicator stays on 4. Check the engine oil pressure (see
module and the
OIL PRESSURE TEST).
oil pressure
5. Check the oil filter for clogging. switch
6. Check the oil screen for clogging.
7. Check the relief valve.
8. Test the oil pump (see
INSPECTION).
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OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TEST
1. Remove the YEL/RED wire (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
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Fig. 3: Removing YEL/RED Wire From Engine Oil Pressure Switch

2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine
(ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be
no continuity with the engine running.
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure
switch.
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Fig. 4: Removing Oil Pressure Switch

2. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole.
3. Apply a very small amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads,
then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket
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to enter the oil passage or the end of the new oil

pressure switch.
OIL PRESSURE TEST
If the low oil pressure indicator stays on with the engine running, check the engine
oil level. If the oil level is correct:
1. Remove the engine oil pressure switch, then install an oil pressure gauge (A).
Fig. 5: Installing Oil Pressure Gauge

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2. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure.
Repair the problem before continuing.
3. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at least twice).
The pressure should be:
Engine Oil Temperature: 176F (80C)
Engine Oil Pressure:
At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2,10 psi) min.

At 3,000 rpm: 490 kPa (5.0 kgf/cm2,71 psi) min.
4. If oil pressure is NOT within specifications, inspect these items:
Check the oil screen for clogging.
Inspect the oil pump (see INSPECTION).
ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT
1. Warm up the engine.

2. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil.
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Fig. 6: Draining Engine Oil

3. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B).
4. Refill with the recommended oil (see LUBRICANTS AND FLUIDS .
Capacity
At oil change:
4.0 L (4.2 US qt)
At oil change including filter:
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4.3 L (4.5 US qt)

After engine overhaul:
5.0 L (5.3 US qt)

5. Run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage.
6. 2006-07 model: Reset the engine oil life indicator ENGINE OIL LIFE
INDICATOR .
ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
Oil filter wrench 07HAA-PJ70100

1. Remove the oil filter with the special tool.
2. Inspect the filter to make sure the rubber seal is not stuck to the oil filter
seating surface of the engine.
3. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal (B) on the new filter. Clean the seat on
the engine block, then apply a light coat of new engine oil to the filter rubber
seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system.
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Fig. 7: Inspecting Threads And Rubber Seal On Filter

4. Install the oil filter by hand.

5. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool.
Tighten: 3/4 turn clockwise
Tightening torque: 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft)
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Fig. 8: Tightening Oil Filter Clockwise With Special Tool

6. If four numbers or triangle marks) are printed around the outside of the filter,
you can use the following procedure to tighten the filter.
Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the block, and note
which number or mark is at the bottom.
Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise three numbers or marks from the
one you noted. For example, if triangle mark is at the bottom when the
seal is lightly seated, tighten the filter until the triangle mark comes
around to the bottom.
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Fig. 9: Tightening Filter Mark Chart

7. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the
engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage.
8. 2006-07 model: Reset the engine oil life indicator ENGINE OIL LIFE
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INDICATOR .
OIL FILTER FEED PIPE REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the filter (see ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT).

2. Remove the oil filter feed pipe.
Fig. 10: Identifying Oil Filter Feed Pipe

3. Install two 20 x 1.5 mm nuts (A) onto the new oil filter feed pipe, and hold one
nut with a wrench, then tighten the other nut.
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Fig. 11: Identifying Nuts And Oil Filter Feed Pipe

4. Tighten the oil filter feed pipe to 49 N.m (5.0 kgf.m, 36 lbf.ft), then remove the
nuts from the oil filter feed pipe.
OIL PUMP OVERHAUL
EXPLODED VIEW
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Fig. 12: Exploded View Of Oil Pump

Oil seal driver, 64 mm 070AD-RCA0100

Engine hanger balance bar VSB02C000019
REMOVAL
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1. Drain the engine oil (see OIL PRESSURE TEST).

2. Remove the bulkhead cover:
3. Remove the windshield wiper arms, then remove the cowl cover, refer to
COWL COVER REPLACEMENT ).
4. Remove the connector bracket from the front cylinder head; use the bracket
bolt hole to attach engine balancer bar front arm (see step 49 ENGINE
REMOVAL ).
5. Remove the harness clamp bracket from the rear cylinder head; use the bracket
bolt hole to attach engine balancer bar rear arm (see step 50 ENGINE
REMOVAL ).
6. Lift and support the engine with engine hanger and engine balancer bar. Attach
the front arm to the front cylinder head with a spacer and the connector bracket
bolt (10 x 1.25 mm). Attach the rear arm to the rear cylinder head with the
harness clamp bracket bolt (8 x 1.25 mm). (see step 51 ENGINE
REMOVAL ).
7. Remove the timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSTALLATION ).
8. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (see CKP SENSOR
REPLACEMENT ).
9. Remove the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve) and oil
filter assembly (see ROCKER ARM OIL CONTROL SOLENOID (VTEC
SOLENOID VALVE) REPLACEMENT ).
10. Remove the oil pan (see OIL PAN INSTALLATION ).
11. Remove the oil screen (A), then remove the oil pump (B).
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Fig. 13: Identifying Oil Screen And Oil Pump

INSPECTION
1. Remove the screws from the pump housing, then separate the housing and
cover.
2. Check the inner-to-outer rotor radial clearance between the inner rotor (A) and
outer rotor (B). If the inner-to-outer rotor clearance exceeds the service limit,
replace the oil pump assembly.
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Inner Rotor-to-Outer Rotor Radial Clearance

Fig. 14: Checking Inner-To-Outer Rotor Radial Clearance Between Inner

Rotor And Outer Rotor
3. Check the housing-to-rotor axial clearance between the rotors (A) and pump
housing (B). If the housing-to-rotor axial clearance exceeds the service limit,
replace the oil pump assembly.
Housing-to-Rotor Axial Clearance
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Fig. 15: Checking Housing-To-Rotor Axial Clearance Between Rotors And

Pump Housing
4. Check the housing-to-outer rotor radial clearance between the outer rotor (A)
and pump housing (B). If the housing-to-outer rotor radial clearance exceeds
the service limit, replace the oil pump assembly.
Housing-to-Outer Rotor Radial Clearance

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Fig. 16: Checking Housing-To-Outer Rotor Radial Clearance Between

Outer Rotor And Pump Housing
5. Inspect both rotors and pump housing for scoring or other damage. Replace the
parts, if necessary.
6. Apply liquid thread lock to the pump housing screws, then install the oil pump
cover.
7. Check that the oil pump turns freely.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove the old oil seal from the oil pump.

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2. Gently tap in the new oil seal until the special tool bottoms on the pump.
Fig. 17: Tapping In Oil Seal

3. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pump mating surfaces, bolts,
and bolt holes.
4. Clean and dry the oil pump mating surfaces.
5. Install the oil pump (A).
-1 Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0002,
08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the block mating surface of the oil
pump.
NOTE: Do not install components if too much time has

passed after applying the liquid gasket (for P/N
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08718-0002, no more than 4 minutes, for all others,

no more than 5 minutes). Instead, remove the old
residue and reapply the liquid gasket.
-2 Grease the lip of the oil seal, and apply oil to the new O-rings (B).
-3 Install the dowel pins (C), then align the inner rotor with the crankshaft
and install the oil pump.
-4 Clean the excess grease off the crankshaft, and check the seal for
distortion.
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Fig. 18: Identifying Oil Pump

6. Install the oil screen (D)
8. Install the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve) and oil filter
assembly (see ROCKER ARM OIL CONTROL SOLENOID (VTEC
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SOLENOID VALVE) REPLACEMENT ).

9. Install the CKP sensor (see CKP SENSOR REPLACEMENT ).
10. Install the idler pulley.
12. Remove the engine balance bar and hanger.
13. Install the connector bracket to the front cylinder head (see step 48 ENGINE
INSTALLATION ).
14. Install the harness clamp bracket to the rear cylinder head (see step 47
15. Install the cowl cover and windshield wiper arms, refer to COWL COVER
REPLACEMENT .
16. Install the front bulkhead cover:
17. Refill the engine with engine oil (see OIL PRESSURE TEST).
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2003-07 ENGINE Engine Lubrication - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Engine Lubrication - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS

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Fig. 2: Identifying Engine Lubrication Component Location

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1. Check the loose of the
engine oil fill cap, oil
drain bolt, and oil filter.
2. Check for oil leaks.
3. Check for worn valve
guide(s) (see VALVE
INSPECTION ) or worn
valve stem seal(s) (see
VALVE
Excessive engine oil INSPECTION ).
consumption 4. Check for damaged or
worn piston ring(s) (see
PISTON RING
REPLACEMENT ).
5. Check for damaged or
worn engine internal
parts (cylinder wall,
pistons, etc.) (see
BLOCK AND PISTON
INSPECTION ).
function (see SELF-
Low oil pressure An open in the wire
DIAGNOSTIC
indicator does not come between the gauge
FUNCTION ).
on with the ignition control module and
switch ON (II) 2. Test the oil pressure the oil pressure switch
switch (see OIL
PRESSURE SWITCH
TEST ).
1. Check the engine oil

level.
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function (see SELF-
DIAGNOSTIC
FUNCTION ).
3. Test the oil pressure
switch (see OIL
PRESSURE SWITCH
TEST ). A wire shorted to
4. Check the engine oil ground between the
Low oil pressure
pressure (see OIL gauge control module
indicator stays on
PRESSURE TEST ). and the oil pressure
switch
5. Check the oil filter for
clogging.
6. Check the oil screen for
clogging.
7. Check the relief valve.
8. Test the oil pump (see
OIL PUMP
INSPECTION ).
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TEST
1. Remove the YEL/RED wire (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
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Fig. 3: Removing Yel/Red Wire From Engine Oil Pressure Switch

2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine
(ground). There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be
no continuity with the engine running.
3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level
is OK, check the engine oil pressure. If the oil pressure is OK, replace the oil
pressure switch (see OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TEST ).
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT
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1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure
switch.
Fig. 4: Disconnecting Oil Pressure Switch Connector

2. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole.
3. Apply liquid gasket to the new oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil
pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket
to enter the oil passage or the end of the new oil
pressure switch.
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OIL PRESSURE TEST
If the oil pressure warning light stays on with the engine running, check the engine
oil level. If the oil level is correct:
1. Remove the engine oil pressure switch, and install an oil pressure gauge (A).
Fig. 5: Installing Oil Pressure Gauge

2. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure.
Repair the problem before continuing.
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3. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at least twice).
The pressure should be:
Engine Oil Temperature: 176 F (80 C)
Engine Oil Pressure:

2
At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm , 10 psi) min.
2
At 3,000 rpm: 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm , 44 psi) min.
4. If the oil pressure is NOT within specifications, inspect these items:

Check the oil screen for clogging.
Inspect the oil pump (see OIL PUMP INSPECTION ).
ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT
1. Warm up the engine.

2. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil.
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Fig. 6: Removing Drain Bolt

3. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B).

4. Refill with the recommended oil (see SERVICE INFORMATION ).
Capacity
At Oil Change:
4.0 L (4.2 US qt)
At Oil Change Including Filter:
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4.2 L (4.4 US qt)

5.3 L (5.6 US qt)
5. Run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage.
6. '06-07 models:Reset the engine oil life indicator (see RESETTING THE
MAINTENANCE INFORMATION DISPLAY ).
ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
Oil filter wrench 07HAA-PJ70100

1. Remove the oil filter with the special tool.
2. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal (B) on the new filter. Clean the seat on
the engine block, then apply a light coat of new engine oil to the filter rubber
seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system.
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Fig. 7: Inspecting Threads And Rubber Seal On Filter

3. Install the oil filter by hand.

4. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the special tool.
Tighten: 3/4 Turn Clockwise
Tightening torque:12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft)
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Fig. 8: Tightening Oil Filter

5. If four numbers or triangle marks (1 to 4 or triangle symbols) are printed

around the outside of the filter, use the following procedure to tighten the filter.
Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the block, and note
which number or mark is at the bottom.
Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise three numbers or marks from the
one you noted. For example, if number 2 is at the bottom when the seal is
seated, tighten the filter until the number 1 comes around the bottom.
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Fig. 9: Tightening Filter

6. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the
engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage.
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7. '06 -07 models: Reset the engine oil life indicator (see RESETTING THE
MAINTENANCE INFORMATION DISPLAY ).
OIL FILTER FEED PIPE REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the oil filter (see ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT ).

2. Remove the oil filter feed pipe.
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Fig. 10: Removing Oil Filter Feed Pipe

3. Install the two 20 x 1.5 mm nuts (A) onto the new oil filter feed pipe. Hold one
nut with a wrench, then tighten the other nut.
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Fig. 11: Installing Nuts Onto Oil Filter Feed Pipe

4. Tighten the oil filter feed pipe to the block to 49 N.m (5.0 kgf.m, 36 lbf.ft),
then remove the nuts from the oil filter feed pipe.
OIL PUMP OVERHAUL
EXPLODED VIEW
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Fig. 12: Exploded View Of Oil Pump

OIL PUMP REMOVAL
1. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer (see step 1 on INSTALLATION ).
2. Remove the oil pan (see OIL PAN REMOVAL ).
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3. Remove and discard the oil pump chain tensioner.
Fig. 13: Discarding Oil Pump Chain Tensioner

4. To hold the rear balancer shaft, insert a 6 mm pin driver (A) into the
maintenance hole in the lower balancer shaft holder and through the rear
balancer shaft.
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Fig. 14: Inserting Pin Driver Into Maintenance Hole In Lower Balancer
Shaft Holder
5. Loosen the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.

6. Remove the oil pump sprocket (A), then remove the oil pump (B).
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Fig. 15: Removing Oil Pump Sprocket

OIL PUMP INSPECTION
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1. Remove the pump housing.
Fig. 16: Removing Pump Housing

2. Check the inner-to-outer rotor radial clearance between the inner rotor (A) and
outer rotor (B). If the inner-to-outer rotor radial clearance exceeds the service
limit, replace the oil pump.
Inner Rotor-to-Outer Rotor Radial Clearance

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Fig. 17: Checking Inner-To-Outer Rotor Radial Clearance Between Inner

Rotor And Outer Rotor
3. Check the housing-to-rotor axial clearance between the rotor (A) and pump
housing (B). If the housing-to-rotor axial clearance exceeds the service limit,
replace the oil pump.
Housing-to-Rotor Axial Clearance

Standard (New): 0.035---0.070 mm
(0.0014---0.0028 in.)

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Fig. 18: Checking Housing-To-Rotor Axial Clearance Between Rotor And

Pump Housing
4. Check the housing-to-outer rotor radial clearance between the outer rotor (A)
and pump housing (B). If the housing-to-outer rotor radial clearance exceeds
the service limit, replace the oil pump.
Housing-to-Outer Rotor Radial Clearance

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Fig. 19: Checking Housing-To-Outer Rotor Radial Clearance Between

Outer Rotor And Pump Housing
5. Inspect both rotors and the pump housing for scoring or other damage. Replace
parts if necessary.
BALANCER SHAFT INSPECTION
1. Seat the balancer shaft by pushing it away from the oil pump sprocket end of
the oil pump.
2. Zero the dial indicator against the end of the balancer shaft, then push the
balancer shaft back and forth and read the end play.
Balancer Shaft End Play

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Front Balancer Shaft:

(0.0025---0.0043 in.)

Rear Balancer Shaft:

(0.0025---0.0043 in.)
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Fig. 20: Pushing Balancer Shaft Back And Forth

3. Remove the baffle plate (A) and upper balancer shaft holder (with bearings)
(B), then remove the front balancer shaft (C) and rear balancer shaft (D).
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Fig. 21: Removing Baffle Plate (A) And Upper Balancer Shaft Holder
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4. Measure the inner diameter of the No. 1 bearing for the front balancer shaft
hole and the rear balancer shaft hole.
Bearing Inner Diameter
Front:
Standard (New): 20.000---20.020 mm

(0.7874---0.7882 in.)
Rear:
Standard (New): 24.000---24.020 mm
(0.9449---0.9457 in.)
Front:
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 22: Measuring Inner Diameter Of Bearing For Front Balancer Shaft
Hole
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2007 Honda Accord
Rear:
Fig. 23: Measuring Inner Diameter Of Bearing For Rear Balancer Shaft
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Hole
5. Measure the diameters of the No. 1 journals on the front balancer shaft and rear
balancer shaft.
Journal Diameter
Front:
Standard (New): 19.938---19.950 mm
(0.7850---0.7854 in.)

Rear:
Standard (New): 23.938---23.950 mm
(0.9424---0.9429 in.)
Front:
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 24: Measuring Diameters Of No. 1 Journals On Front Balancer Shaft

Rear:
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Fig. 25: Measuring Diameters Of No. 1 Journals On Rear Balancer Shaft

6. Clean both balancer shaft No. 2 journals and bearing halves with a clean shop
towel.
7. Place one strip of plastigage across each No. 2 journal.
8. Reinstall the bearings and upper balancer shaft holder, then torque the bolts.
NOTE: Do not rotate the balancer shafts during inspection.
9. Remove the upper balancer shaft holder and bearings again, and measure the
widest part with the plastigage. If the balancer shaft No. 2 journal oil clearance
is out-of-tolerance, install new bearings, and recheck. If it is still out-of-
tolerance, replace the balancer shafts.
No. 2 Journal Oil Clearance
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(0.0024---0.0047 in.)
Fig. 26: Measuring Widest Part With Plastigage

10. Align the punch mark on the rear balancer shaft in the center of the two punch
marks on the front balancer shaft, then install the balancer shafts on the lower
balancer shaft holder.
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Fig. 27: Aligning Punch Mark On Rear Balancer Shaft

11. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the 8 mm bolts (A).
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Fig. 28: Applying Engine Oil To Threads Of Bolts

12. Install the upper balancer shaft holder (B) and baffle plate (C).
13. Install the pump housing.
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Fig. 29: Installing Pump Housing

OIL PUMP INSTALLATION
1. Make sure the No. 1 piston is at TDC (see step 1 on INSTALLATION ).

2. Align the dowel pin (A) on the rear balancer shaft with the mark (B) on the oil
pump.
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Fig. 30: Aligning Dowel Pin On Rear Balancer Shaft

3. To hold the rear balancer shaft, insert a 6 mm pin driver (A) into the
maintenance hole in the lower balancer shaft holder and through the rear
balancer shaft.
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Fig. 31: Inserting Pin Driver Into Maintenance Hole

4. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt
(A).
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Fig. 32: Applying Engine Oil To Threads Of Oil Pump Sprocket Mounting
Bolt
5. Loosely install the oil pump (B), then install the oil pump sprocket (C).
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6. Remove the pin driver (D).

7. Tighten the oil pump mounting bolts.
8. Squeeze the new oil pump chain tensioner (A), then install the set clip (B) on it
as shown below.
NOTE: The set clip is supplied with the oil pump chain
tensioner.
Fig. 33: Installing Set Clip

9. Install the new oil pump chain tensioner.
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Fig. 34: Installing Oil Pump Chain Tensioner

10. Remove the set clip from the oil pump chain tensioner.
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Fig. 35: Removing Set Clip From Oil Pump Chain Tensioner
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2003-07 ENGINE Engine Mount Control System - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Engine Mount Control System - Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Engine Mount Control System Components

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
A/T
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2007 Honda Accord
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Fig. 2: Wiring Diagram - Engine Mount Control System Circuit

TROUBLESHOOTING
Vacuum pump/gauge, 0---30 in.Hg
Snap-on YA4000A or equivalent, commercially available
NOTE: Check the vacuum hoses and lines for damage and proper
connections before troubleshooting.
Follow this procedure if the engine vibrates excessively when idling.

A/T
1. Start the engine, and let it idle (see IDLE SPEED INSPECTION ).
2. Raise the engine speed from idling to 2,000 rpm.
3. Check the MOUNT CTRL SOL in the PGM-FI DATA LIST with the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS).
Is ON indicated at idling and OFF indicated at 2,000 rpm?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Update the powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the
latest software (see UPDATING THE ECM/PCM ), or substitute a
known-good PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck.
If the engine mount control system works properly, and the PCM was
updated, the troubleshooting is complete. If the PCM was substituted,
replace the original PCM (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ).
5. Disconnect the engine mount control solenoid valve 2P connector from the
engine mount control solenoid valve.
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7. Measure the voltage between engine mount control solenoid valve 2P

Fig. 3: Measuring Voltage Between Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve

2P Connector Terminal And Body Ground

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YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between the engine mount control
solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No. 2 and No. 18 (15A) fuse in the
under-dash fuse/relay box.
8. Measure voltage between engine mount control solenoid valve 2P connector

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2P Connector Terminals
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between PCM (B15) and the engine
mount control solenoid valve 2P connector. If the wire is OK, update the
PCM if it does not have the latest software (see UPDATING THE
ECM/PCM ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see SUBSTITUTE
THE ECM/PCM ), and recheck. If the engine mount control system
works properly, and the PCM was updated, the troubleshooting is
complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see
9. Raise the engine speed above 1,000 rpm.
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YES - Repair a short to body ground in the wire between PCM (B15) and
the engine mount control solenoid valve. If the wire is OK, update the
PCM if it does not have the latest software (see UPDATING THE
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ECM/PCM ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see SUBSTITUTE

THE ECM/PCM ), and recheck. If the engine mount control system
works properly, and the PCM was updated, the troubleshooting is
complete. If the PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM (see
NO - Go to step 11.
11. Disconnect the upper vacuum hose (A) from the engine mount control solenoid
valve (B), and connect a vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in. Hg, to the hose. Apply
about 20 in.Hg of vacuum, and wait 20 seconds.
Fig. 6: Disconnecting The Upper Vacuum Hose From The Engine Mount
Control Solenoid Valve
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Does the engine mount hold vacuum?

NO - Either the vacuum hose or the engine mount has a vacuum leak.
Repair as needed.
12. Release the vacuum, then apply vacuum again.
Is there a noticeable change in idle smoothness with and without vacuum

applied?

NO - Replace the front engine mount.
13. Connect a vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in. Hg, to the engine mount control
solenoid valve (A).
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Fig. 7: Connecting Vacuum Pump/Gauge, 0---30 in. Hg, To The Engine

Mount Control Solenoid Valve
Is there manifold vacuum at idle, and a decrease in manifold vacuum when
you raise the engine speed above 1,000 rpm?
NO - Replace the engine mount control solenoid valve.
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2003-07 ENGINE Engine Mount Control System - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Engine Mount Control System - Accord (V6)
Fig. 1: Locating Engine Mount Control System Components

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2007 Honda Accord
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Fig. 2: Engine Mount Control System Circuit Diagram

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TROUBLESHOOTING
Vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg

Snap-on YA4000A or equivalent, commercially available
NOTE: Check the vacuum hoses and lines for damage and proper
connections before troubleshooting.
Follow this procedure if the engine vibrates excessively when idling.
1. Start the engine, and let it idle (see IDLE SPEED INSPECTION ).
2. Raise the engine speed from idling to 2,000 rpm.
3. Check the MOUNT CTRL SOL in the PGM-FI DATA LIST with the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS).
Is ON indicated at idling and OFF indicated at 2,000 rpm?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Update the engine control module (ECM) / powertrain control module

(PCM) if it does not have the latest software (see ECM/PCM UPDATING
AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING ), or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM (see HOW TO SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck.
If the engine mount control system works properly, and the ECM/PCM was
updated, the troubleshooting is complete. If the ECM/PCM was substituted,
replace the original ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ).
5. Disconnect the engine mount control solenoid valve 2P connector from the
engine mount control solenoid valve.
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2P Connector Terminal 2 And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 8.
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NO - Repair an open in the wire between the engine mount control solenoid
valve 2P connecter terminal No.2 and No. 18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.

connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2, with the engine at idle.

2P Connector Terminals 1 And 2
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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between ECM/PCM (B7) and the engine
mount control solenoid valve 2P connector. If the wire is OK, update the ECM/
PCM if it does not have the latest software (see ECM/PCM UPDATING
AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING ), or substitute a known-good ECM/
PCM (see HOW TO SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), and recheck. If the
engine mount control system works properly, and the ECM/PCM was updated,
the troubleshooting is complete. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the
original ECM/PCM (seeECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ).
9. Raise the engine speed above 1,000 rpm.

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2P Connector Terminals 1 And 2
YES - Repair a short to body ground in the wire between ECM/PCM (B7) and
the engine mount control solenoid valve. If the wire is OK, update the
ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software (see ECM/PCM
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UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING ), or substitute a

known-good ECM/PCM (see HOW TO SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ),
and recheck. If the engine mount control system works properly, and the
ECM/PCM was updated, the troubleshooting is complete. If the ECM/PCM
was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Go to step 11.
11. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) that is closest to the solenoid connector from
the engine mount control solenoid valve (B) and connect a commercially
available vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg. to the hose. Apply about 20 in.Hg,
of vacuum, and wait for 20 seconds.
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Fig. 6: Identifying Vacuum Hose

Does the engine mounts hold vacuum?

NO - Either the vacuum hose or one of the engine mounts has a vacuum leak.
Repair as needed.
12. Release the vacuum, then apply vacuum again.
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Is there a noticeable change in idle smoothness with and without vacuum

applied?
NO - Replace the front engine mount and/or rear engine mount.
13. Connect a commercially available vacuum pump/gauge,. 0-3 in.Hg, to engine

mount control solenoid valve port (A) that is closest to the solenoid connector.
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Fig. 7: Connecting Vacuum Pump To Engine Mount Control Solenoid

Valve Port
Is there manifold vacuum at idle, and decrease in manifold vacuum when you
raise the engine speed above 1,000 rpm?

NO - Replace the engine mount control solenoid valve.
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2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE EVAP System - Accord (V6)
EVAP System - Accord (V6)
Fig. 1: Identifying EVAP System Components

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DTC CODES
DTC CHART
DTC Description
DTC P0442 EVAP System Small Leak Detected
(2003-2004 models)
DTC P0455 EVAP System Large Leak Detected
(2005-2007 models)
DTC P0456 EVAP System Very Small Leak
Detected
DTC P0443 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Circuit
Malfunction
DTC P0451 FTP Sensor Range/Performance
Problem
DTC P0452 FTP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
(2003-2004 models)
DTC P0452 FTP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
(2005-2007 models)
DTC P0453 FTP Sensor Circuit High Voltage
DTC P0457 EVAP System Leak Detected Fuel Fill
Cap Loose or Missing
DTC P0496 EVAP System High Purge Flow
DTC P0497 EVAP System Low Purge Flow
DTC P0498 EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve
Control Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0499 EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve
Control Circuit High Voltage
DTC P1454 FTP Sensor Range/Performance
Problem
DTC P2422 EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Close
Malfunction
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DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0442: EVAP SYSTEM SMALL LEAK DETECTED (2003-2004 MODELS); DTC P0455: EVAP
SYSTEM LARGE LEAK DETECTED (2005-2007 MODELS); DTC P0456: EVAP SYSTEM VERY
SMALL LEAK DETECTED
NOTE: The fuel system is designed to allow specified maximum

vacuum and pressure conditions. Do not deviate from the
vacuum and pressure tests as indicated in these
procedures. Excessive pressure/ vacuum would damage
the EVAP components or cause eventual fuel tank failure.
Vacuum/pressure gauge, 0-4 in.Hg, 07JAZ-001000B

Vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, Snap-on YA4000A or equivalent,
commercially available
Fresh fuel has a higher volatility that will create greater
pressure/vacuum. The optimum condition for testing is
less than a full tank of fresh fuel, If possible, to assist in
leak detection, add 1 gallon of fresh fuel to the tank (as
long as it will not fill the tank), just before starting these
procedures.
1. Check the fuel fill cap (the cap must say "Tighten to click"). It should turn 1/4
turn after it's tight, then it clicks.
Is the correct fuel fill cap installed and properly tightened?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace or tighten the cap, then go to step 22.
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2. Check the fuel fill cap seal (A) and the fuel fill pipe mating surface (B). Verify
that the fuel fill cap tether cord (C) is not caught under the cap.
Fig. 2: Checking Fuel Fill Cap Seal And Mating Surface

Is the fuel fill cap seal missing or damaged, is the fuel fill pipe damaged, or
is the tether cord caught under the cap?
YES - Replace the fuel fill cap or the fuel fill pipe, then go to step 22.
NO - Go to step 3.
5. Do the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Is the result OK?
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connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, the EVAP canister purge
valve, or the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the ECM/ PCM.
NO - Go to step 6.
8. Check for a poor connection or damage at the fuel tank vapor recirculation
tube.
Is the tube OK?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO -
Replace the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube, then go to step 22.
If necessary, replace the fuel tank (see FUEL TANK

REPLACEMENT ), then go to step 22.
9. Disconnect the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (A) from the EVAP canister
(B), and plug the EVAP canister port (C).
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Fig. 3: Disconnecting Fuel Tank Vapor Recirculation Tube

10. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the EVAP canister purge valve (B) in
the engine compartment, and connect a vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the
hose.
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Fig. 4: Disconnecting Vacuum Hose

11. Do the EVAP CVS ON in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
12. Apply vacuum to the hose until the FTP reads 1.90 V (0.59 in.Hg, -15.1
mmHg).
NOTE: Be careful not to exceed the pressure. If you exceed the

pressure, the FTP sensor can be damaged.
13. Monitor the FTP SENSOR in the DATA LIST for 1 minute with the HDS.
Does the voltage increase more than 0.2 V (0.1 in.Hg, 2.5 mmHg)?
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NO - Go to step 19.
14. Do the EVAP CVS OFF in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
15. Disconnect the fresh air hoses (A) from the EVAP canister vent shut valve (B),
and plug the EVAP canister vent shut valve ports (C).
Fig. 5: Disconnecting Fresh Air Hoses

16. Apply vacuum to the hose (disconnected in step 10) until the FTP reads 1.90 V
(-0.59 in.Hg,-15.1 mmHg).
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NO - Replace the EVAP canister vent shut valve (see EVAP CANISTER
VENT SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT ), then go to step 21.
18. Check for a loose or damaged EVAP canister purge line between the EVAP
canister and the EVAP canister purge valve.
Is the line OK?
YES - Replace the following parts, then go to step 21.

FTP sensor O-ring
EVAP canister vent shut valve case and O-ring
EVAP canister
NO - Reconnect or repair the EVAP canister purge hose, then go to step

21.
19. Do the EVAP CVS OFF in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
20. Check these parts for looseness or damage.
Fuel fill pipe
Fuel vapor return pipe
Are the parts OK?
YES - Check the fuel tank unit base gasket (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL
GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT ), and check the fuel tank,
then go to step 21.
NO - Repair or replace the damaged parts, then go to step 21.
21. Reconnect all hoses and connectors.
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PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, the
EVAP canister purge valve, or the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the
ECM/ PCM, then go to step 1.
DTC P0443: EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
INFORMATION ).


YES - Go to step 5.
connections or loose terminals at the EVAP canister purge valve and the
ECM/PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and allow the engine to cool below 140F (60
C).
6. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the EVAP canister purge joint (B) in the
engine compartment, and connect a vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the
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hose.

7. Start the engine, and let it idle.

Is there vacuum?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 14.
9. Disconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector.
10. Check for continuity between EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector No. 1
and body ground.
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Fig. 7: Checking Continuity Between EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P

Connector And Body Ground
NO - Go to step 24.
13. Check for continuity between EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector
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Connector Terminal And Body Ground
YES - Repair short in the wire between the EVAP canister purge valve
and the ECM/PCM (B2), then go to step 25.
NO - Go to step 31.
17. Measure voltage between EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector terminal
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Fig. 9: Measuring Voltage Between EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P


NO - Repair open in the wire between the EVAP canister purge valve and
the No. 18 ACG (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box, then go to
step 25.
21. Connect EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body
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ground with a jumper wire.
Fig. 10: Connecting EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P Connector Terminal

To Body Ground
ground.
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And Body Ground

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the ECM/PCM (B2), then go to step 25.

23. Measure resistance between EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector terminals
No. 1 and No. 2.
Fig. 12: Measuring Resistance Between EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P

Connector Terminals
Is there about 33 ohms, at room temperature?

NO - Go to step 24.
24. Replace the EVAP canister purge valve (see EVAP CANISTER PURGE
VALVE REPLACEMENT).
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PROCEDURE ).

terminals at the EVAP canister purge valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to
step 1. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the
indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO - 2003 model: Troubleshooting is complete. 2004-2007 models: Go to
step 30.
HDS.

step 1. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep idling until a result
comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 28
and recheck.

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indicated DTC TROUBLESHOOTING.

DTC P0451: FTP SENSOR RANGE/PERFORMANCE PROBLEM
If DTC P2422 is stored at the same time as DTC P0451,
troubleshoot DTC P2422 first, then recheck for DTC
P0451.

3. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute.
HDS.
YES - Go to step 5.
this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor
and the ECM/PCM. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step
3 and recheck.
6. Replace the FTP sensor (see FTP SENSOR REPLACEMENT).
PROCEDURE ).
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10. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute.


terminals at the FTP sensor and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1. If any
other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC
TROUBLESHOOTING.
NO - Go to step 12.
HDS.

terminals at the FTP sensor and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1. If the
screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 10 and recheck.
DTC P0452: FTP SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE (2003-2004 MODELS)
INFORMATION ).

Are DTC P0107, P0112, P0117, P2122, P2127, P2228, P0452, P2627, and
P2630 indicated at the same time?
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NO - Go to step 6.
7. Remove the fuel fill cap.
9. Check the FTP SENSOR in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is about -7.3 kPa (-2.16 in.Hg, - 55 mmHg), or 0.3 V or less indicated?

NO - Go to step 10.
10. Install the fuel fill cap.
HDS.

6 and recheck.
14. Disconnect the FTP sensor 3P connector.
Is about 7.3 kPa (2.15 in.Hg, 54.7 mmHg), or 4.90 V indicated?

NO - Go to step 17.
17. Measure voltage between FTP sensor 3P connector terminal No. 1 and body
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ground.
Fig. 13: Measuring Voltage Between FTP Sensor 3P Connector Terminal

And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?
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NO - Go to step 18.
ground.

And Body Ground
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ls there about 5V?

YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (A31) and the
FTP sensor, then go to step 34.
NO - Go to step 40.
21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (31P).
22. Check for continuity between FTP sensor 3P connector terminal No. 2 and
body ground.
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Fig. 15: Checking Continuity Between FTP Sensor 3P Connector

Terminal And Body Ground
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YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (A29) and the
NO - Go to step 40.
25. Disconnect ECM/PCM connectors A (31P) and D(17P).
26. Disconnect the connectors from these parts:
MAP sensor
APP sensor
IMT (IMRC) actuator
EGR valve
FTP sensor
Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor
Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
27. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminals
A31, D2, D6, and D12 individually.
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Fig. 16: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground And ECM/PCM

Connector Terminals A31, D2, D6, And D12
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (A31, D2, D6, or
D12) and each part, then go to step 34.
NO - Go to step 28.
28. Reconnect ECM/PCM connectors A (31P) and D(17P).
30. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal D6 and body ground.
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Fig. 17: Measuring Voltage Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal D6

And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?

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NO - Go to step 40.
31. Continue to monitor voltage at ECM/PCM connector terminal D6 while
reconnecting these parts, one at a time:
MAP sensor
APP sensor
IMT (IMRC) actuator
EGR valve
FTP sensor
Did the voltage drop to about OV?
YES - Replace the part that caused the voltage to drop, then go to step 34.
NO - Go to step 40.
32. Turn the ignition OFF.
PROCEDURE ).

TROUBLESHOOTING.
NO - Go to step 39.
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HDS.


TROUBLESHOOTING.
INFORMATION ).

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Is about - 7.3 kPa (- 2.16 in.Hg, -55mmHg), or 0.3 V or less indicated?

NO - Go to step 7.
HDS.

5 and recheck.
Is about 7.3 kPa (2.15 in.Hg, 54.7 mm Hg), or 4.90 V indicated?

NO - Go to step 14.
ground.
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And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?
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NO - Go to step 15.
ground.

And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (A31) and the
NO - Go to step 28.
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body ground.
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YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (A29) and the
NO - Go to step 28.
PROCEDURE ).

TROUBLESHOOTING.
NO - Go to step 27.
HDS.


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TROUBLESHOOTING.
DTC P0453: FTP SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE
INFORMATION ).

Is about 7.3 kPa (2.16 in.Hg, 55 mmHg), or 4.7 V or more indicated?

NO - Go to step 7.
HDS.
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6 and recheck.
12. Connect FTP sensor 3P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3 with a jumper
wire.
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Fig. 21: Connecting FTP Sensor 3P Connector Terminals


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NO - Go to step 25.
15. Measure voltage between FTP sensor 3P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3.
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Fig. 22: Measuring Voltage Between FTP Sensor 3P Connector Terminals

Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 16.
19. Connect FTP sensor 3P connector terminal No. 3 to body ground with a jumper
wire.
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Fig. 23: Connecting FTP Sensor 3P Connector Terminal To Body Ground

With Jumper Wire
20. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminals A28 and body
ground.
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Fig. 24: Checking Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminals

A28 And Body Ground
NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (A28) and the FTP
sensor, then go to step 27.
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2007 Honda Accord

22. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminals A28 and A29 with a jumper wire.
Fig. 25: Connecting ECM/PCM Connector Terminals A28 And A29 With
Jumper Wire

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NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/ PCM (A29) and the FTP
PROCEDURE ).

TROUBLESHOOTING.
NO - Go to step 32.
HDS.

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2007 Honda Accord

TROUBLESHOOTING.
DTC P0457: EVAP SYSTEM LEAK DETECTED FUEL FILL CAP LOOSE OR MISSING
INFORMATION ).
1. Check the fuel fill cap (the cap must say "Tighten to click"). If should turn 1/4

YES - Go to step 2.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 26: Checking Fuel Fill Cap Seal

NO - Go to step 3.
Is the result OK?

connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, or the EVAP canister
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vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM.

NO - Go to step 6.
7. Remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve from the EVAP canister (see
EVAP CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT).
8. Connect the 2P connector to the EVAP canister vent shut valve.
11. Check the EVAP canister vent shut valve (A) operation.
Fig. 27: Checking EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Operation

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Does the valve operate?

YES - Check the routing of the EVAP canister vent tube, then go to step
18.
NO - Go to step 12.
13. Replace the EVAP canister vent shut valve (see EVAP CANISTER VENT
SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT).
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, or
the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1.
18. Reinstall the EVAP canister vent shut valve.
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, or
DTC P0496: EVAP SYSTEM HIGH PURGE FLOW
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information (seeGENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).

Is the result OK?

NO - Go to step 4.
5. Replace the EVAP canister purge valve (see EVAP CANISTER PURGE
VALVE REPLACEMENT).
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

DTC P0497: EVAP SYSTEM LOW PURGE FLOW
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Vacuum/pressure gauge, 0-4 in.Hg, 07JAZ-001000B

INFORMATION ).
1. Check the fuel fill cap installation.
Is the fuel fill cap installed and properly tightened?

YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Properly install the fuel fill cap (the cap must say "Tighten to
click"). If should turn 1/4 turn after it's tight, then go to step 23.
Is the result OK?

NO - Go to step 5.
5. Check for a loose or damaged EVAP canister purge line between the intake
manifold and the EVAP canister purge valve.
Is the line OK?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Reconnect or repair the EVAP canister purge line, then go to step
23.
6. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the EVAP canister purge valve joint (B)
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in the engine compartment, and connect a T-fitting (C) from the vacuum gauge
and the vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the vacuum hose (A) as shown in
Fig. 28.
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7. Do the EVAP PCS ON in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.

8. Slowly apply about 0.6 in.Hg (15 mmHg) of vacuum to the hose.
Does it hold vacuum?
YES - Check for blockage in the PCS line between the intake manifold
and the EVAP canister purge valve, and the line between the EVAP
canister purge valve and the EVAP canister purge joint. If the vacuum
hoses are OK, replace the EVAP canister purge valve, then go to step 22.
NO - Go to step 9.
9. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the EVAP canister purge joint.
10. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EVAP canister purge line (EVAP
canister side), and connect a T-fitting (A) from the vacuum gauge and the
vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the hose as shown in Fig. 29.
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Fig. 29: Connecting T-Fitting From Vacuum Gauge And Vacuum

Pump/Gauge
11. Do the EVAP PCS ON in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
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12. Slowly apply about 2 kPa (0.6 in.Hg, 15 mmHg) of vacuum to the hose.
YES - Check for a restricted EVAP canister purge line between the EVAP
canister purge valve and the EVAP canister, then go to step 22.
NO - Go to step 13.
13. Remove the FTP sensor with its connector connected (see FTP SENSOR
REPLACEMENT).
14. Connect a T-fitting (A) from the vacuum gauge and a commercially available
vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the FTP sensor (B) as shown in Fig. 30.
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Fig. 30: Connecting T-Fitting

15. Check and record the FTP SENSOR reading in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
16. Slowly apply about 1.3 kPa (0.4 in.Hg, 10 mmHg) of vacuum to the hose.
Is the difference more than 1.1 kPa (0.31 in.Hg, 8 mmHg) before and after
applying vacuum?
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NO - Replace the FTP sensor (see FTP SENSOR REPLACEMENT),
then go to step 22.
18. Reconnect the vacuum hoses to the EVAP canister purge line (EVAP canister
side), and reinstall the FTP sensor.
19. Disconnect the vacuum hose (purge line) (A) from the EVAP canister purge
valve (B), and connect a T-fitting (C) from the vacuum gauge and the vacuum
pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the hose as shown in Fig. 31.
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Fig. 31: Disconnecting Vacuum Hose (Purge Line)

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Does the hose hold vacuum?
YES - Check for blockage on the EVAP canister purge joint, then go to
step 22.
VENT SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT), then go to step 22.
22. Reconnect all hoses.
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

DTC P0498: EVAP CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE
INFORMATION ).

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YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 4.
YES - Go to step 6.
connections or loose terminals at the EVAP canister vent shut valve and
the ECM/ PCM.
7. Disconnect the EVAP canister vent shut valve 2P connector.
9. Measure voltage between EVAP canister vent shut valve 2P connector terminal
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Fig. 32: Measuring Voltage Between EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve 2P
*: 2005-2007 models

NO - 2003-2004 models: Repair open in the wire between the EVAP
canister vent shut valve and the No. 18 ACG (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
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fuse/relay box, then go to step 19.

2005-2007 models: Repair open in the wire between the EVAP canister
vent shut valve and the A/F sensor relay, then go to step 19.

11. Measure resistance between EVAP canister vent shut valve 2P connector
Fig. 33: Measuring Resistance Between EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve
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Is there about 25- 30 ohms, at room temperature?

NO - Go to step 18.
15. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A10 and body
ground.

A10 And Body Ground
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YES - Repair short in the wire between the EVAP canister vent shut valve
and the ECM/PCM (A10), then go to step 19.
NO - Go to step 16.
16. Connect EVAP canister vent shut valve 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body
Fig. 35: Connecting EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve 2P Connector

Terminal To Body Ground
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17. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A10 and body
ground.

A10 And Body Ground
NO - Repair open in the wire between the EVAP canister vent shut valve
and the ECM/PCM (A10), then go to step 19.
18. Replace the EVAP canister vent shut valve (see EVAP CANISTER VENT
SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT).
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PROCEDURE ).

terminals at the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM, then
the indicated DTC TROUBLESHOOTING.

the indicated DTC TROUBLESHOOTING.
ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ) .
DTC P0499: EVAP CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE
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INFORMATION ).


YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or
substitute a known-good ECM/ PCM (see ECM/PCM UPDATING AND
SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING ), then recheck. If the symptom/
indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original
ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ).
the ECM/ PCM.
DTC P1454: FTP SENSOR RANGE/PERFORMANCE PROBLEM; DTC P2422: EVAP CANISTER
VENT SHUT VALVE CLOSE MALFUNCTION
INFORMATION ).

4. Remove the fuel fill cap, and wait 1 minute.
Is it between - 0.67 kPa and 0.67 kPa (- 0.2 and 0.2in.Hg, -5 and 5 mmHg),
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or 2.4-2.6 V?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 17.
8. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park on
HDS.

this time, check for a poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP
sensor, or the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the ECM/ PCM. If the
12. Remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve from the EVAP canister (see
EVAP CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT).
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YES - Check for a blockage in the EVAP canister, canister filter, vent
hoses, and drain joint, then install the EVAP canister vent shut valve, and
go to step 23.
VENT SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT), then go to step 23.
17. Disconnect the air tube (A) from the FTP sensor (B).
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Fig. 38: Disconnecting Air Tube From FTP Sensor

Is it between - 0.67 kPa and 0.67 kPa (- 0.2 and 0.2 in.Hg, -5 and 5 mmHg),
or 2.4-2.6 V?
YES - Check for a blockage in the FTP sensor air tube, then go to step 23.
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NO - Go to step 19.
20. Remove the FTP sensor (A) from the EVAP canister with its connector
connected (see FTP SENSOR REPLACEMENT).
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Fig. 39: Removing FTP Sensor

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or 2.4-2.6 V?
YES - Check for debris or clogging at the EVAP canister and the FTP
sensor port, then go to step 23.
NO - Replace the FTP sensor (see FTP SENSOR REPLACEMENT),
then go to step 23.
PROCEDURE ).
YES - If DTC P1454 and/or P2422 is indicated, check for poor

connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, or the EVAP canister
vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1. If any other
Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC
TROUBLESHOOTING.
NO - Go to step 28.
HDS.

terminals at the FTP sensor, or the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the
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ECM/ PCM, then go to step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED,

go to step 26 and recheck.
EVAP CANISTER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the EVAP canister cover (A).
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Fig. 40: Removing EVAP Canister Cover

2. Remove the hoses (A), the FTP sensor 3P connector (B), and the EVAP
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canister vent shut valve 2P connector (C).
Fig. 41: Removing Hoses, FTP Sensor 3P Connector And EVAP Canister
Vent Shut Valve 2P Connector
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3. Remove the bolts (D).

4. Remove the EVAP canister assembly (E).
5. Remove the EVAP canister bracket (A).
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Fig. 42: Removing EVAP Canister Bracket

6. Install the canister in the reverse order of removal.

FTP SENSOR REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the EVAP canister (see EVAP CANISTER REPLACEMENT).

2. Remove the FTP sensor (A).
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3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B).
EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect the hoses (A) and the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector (B).
Fig. 44: Disconnecting Hoses And EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P

Connector
2. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve (C).

3. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal.
EVAP CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT
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1. Remove the EVAP canister (see EVAP CANISTER REPLACEMENT).

2. Pry the lock tabs outward (A) then remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve
(B).
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the lock tabs.
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Fig. 45: Prying Lock Tabs Outward And Removing EVAP Canister Vent
Shut Valve
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3. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C).
NOTE: Do not coat the O-ring with oil.
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2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE EVAP System - Accord
EVAP System - Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying EVAP System Component Location Index

NON-SULEV MODEL
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Fig. 2: Identifying EVAP System Component Location Index (Non-SULEV

Model)
SULEV MODEL
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Fig. 3: Identifying EVAP System Component Location Index (SULEV Model)

DTC CODES
DTC INDEX
DTC Description
DTC P0442 EVAP System Small Leak Detected
(2003-2004 models)
DTC P0455 EVAP System Large Leak Detected
(2005-2006 models)
DTC P0456 EVAP System Very Small Leak
Detected
DTC P0443 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Circuit
Malfunction
DTC P0451 FTP Sensor Range/Performance Problem
DTC P0452 FTP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (2003-
2004 models)
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DTC P0452 FTP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (2005-

2006 models)
DTC P0453 FTP Sensor Circuit High Voltage
DTC P0457 EVAP System Leak Detected/Fuel Cap
Loose or Missing
DTC P0496 EVAP System High Purge Flow
DTC P0497 EVAP System Low Purge Flow
DTC P0498 EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Circuit
Low Voltage
DTC P0499 EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve Circuit
High Voltage
DTC P1454 FTP Sensor Range/Performance Problem
DTC P2422 EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve; Stuck
Close Malfunction
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0442: EVAP SYSTEM SMALL LEAK DETECTED (2003-2004 MODELS); DTC P0455: EVAP
SYSTEM LARGE LEAK DETECTED (2005-2007 MODELS); DTC P0456: EVAP SYSTEM VERY
SMALL LEAK DETECTED;
NOTE: The fuel system is designed to allow specified maximum

vacuum and pressure conditions. Do not deviate from the
vacuum and pressure tests as indicated in these
procedures. Excessive pressure/vacuum would damage the
EVAP components or cause eventual fuel tank failure.

Vacuum/pressure gauge, 0-4 in.Hg 07JAZ-001000B
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Fresh fuel has a higher volatility that will create greater
pressure/vacuum. The optimum condition for testing is
less than a full tank of fresh fuel. If possible, to assist in
leak detection, add 1 gallon of fresh fuel to the tank (as
long as it will not fill the tank) just before starting these
procedures.
YES - Go to step 2.
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Fig. 4: Checking Fuel Fill Cap Seal And Fuel Fill Pipe Mating Surface
NO - Go to step 3.
Is the result OK?

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valve, or the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM.
NO - Go to step 6.
7. Check for a poor connection or damage at the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube
(see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ).
Is the tube OK?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO -
Replace the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (see FUEL TANK
If necessary, replace the fuel tank (see FUEL TANK
8. Disconnect the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (A) from the EVAP canister
(B), and plug the EVAP canister port (C).
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Fig. 5: Disconnecting Fuel Tank Vapor Recirculation Tube From EVAP

Canister (SULEV Model)
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Fig. 6: Disconnecting Fuel Tank Vapor Recirculation Tube From EVAP

Canister (Non-SULEV Model)
9. Disconnect the vacuum hose (purge line) (A) from the EVAP canister purge
valve (B) in the engine compartment, and connect a T-fitting (C) from the
vacuum gauge and the vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the hose as shown
below.
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Fig. 7: Disconnecting Vacuum Hose From EVAP Canister Purge Valve


11. Select EVAP CVS ON in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
12. Apply vacuum to the hose until the FTP reads 1.90 V (-0.59 in.Hg, -15.1
mmHg).
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NO - Go to step 19.
14. Select EVAP CVS OFF in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
15. Disconnect the fresh air hoses (A) from the EVAP canister vent shut valve (B),
and plug the EVAP canister vent shut valve ports (C).
SULEV model
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Fig. 8: Disconnecting Fresh Air Hoses From EVAP Canister Vent Shut
Valve (SULEV Model)
Non-SULEV model
Fig. 9: Disconnecting Fresh Air Hoses From EVAP Canister Vent Shut
Valve (Non-SULEV Model)
16. Apply vacuum to the hose (disconnected in step 10) until the FTP reads 1.90 V
(-0.59 in.Hg, -15.1 mmHg).
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NO - Replace the EVAP canister vent shut valve; Non-SULEV model (see
Non-SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV model ), then go to
step 21.
18. Check for a loose or damaged EVAP canister purge line between the EVAP
canister and the EVAP canister purge valve.
Is the line OK?
YES - Replace the following parts, then go to step 21.

FTP sensor O-ring (see FTP Sensor Replacement )
EVAP canister vent shut valve case and O-ring; Non-SULEV model
(see Non-SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV model )
EVAP canister (see EVAP Canister Replacement )
NO - Reconnect or repair the EVAP canister purge hose, then go to step

21.
19. Select EVAP CVS OFF in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
20. Check these parts for looseness or damage:
Fuel fill pipe
Fuel vapor return pipe
Fuel tank vapor signal tube (SULEV model)
Are the parts OK?

YES - Check the fuel pump base gasket (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL
GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT ), and check the fuel tank,
then go to step 21.
NO - Repair or replace the damaged parts, then go to step 21.
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21. Reconnect all hoses and connectors.

PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

ECM/PCM, then go to step 1.
DTC P0443: EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
INFORMATION ).


YES - Go to step 5.
connections or loose terminals at the EVAP canister purge valve and the
ECM/PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and allow the engine to cool below 131F (55
C).
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the engine compartment, and connect a vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the
hose.
In Engine Compartment
Is there vacuum?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 14.
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NO - Go to step 24.
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YES - Repair short in the wire between the EVAP canister purge valve
and the ECM/PCM (B21), then go to step 25.
NO - Go to step 31.
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17. Measure voltage between EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector terminal
Fig. 13: Measuring Voltage Between EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P


the No. 18 ACG (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box, then go to
step 25.
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21. Connect EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector terminal No. 2 to body
Fig. 14: Connecting EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P Connector Terminal

No. 2 To Body Ground With Jumper Wire
ground.
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B21 And Body Ground

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the ECM/PCM (B21), then go to step 25.
23. At the valve side, measure resistance between EVAP canister purge valve 2P
Fig. 16: Measuring Resistance Between EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P

Is there about 33 ohms at room temperature?

NO - Go to step 24.
24. Replace the EVAP canister purge valve (see EVAP Canister Purge Valve
Replacement ).
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PROCEDURE ).
Is DTC P0443 Indicated?

YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the EVAP canister
purge valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1.
NO - 2003 model: Troubleshooting is complete. 2004-2007 models: Go to
step 30.
HDS.

troubleshooting.
step 1. If the screen indicates EXECUTING, keep idling until a result
comes on. If the screen indicates OUT OF CONDITION, go to step 28
and recheck.
known-good ECM/PCM (see UPDATING THE ECM/PCM , SUBSTITUTE
THE ECM/PCM ).

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HDS.

ECM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM; '03-05 models, '06-
07 models (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ). If any other Temporary
DTC's or DTCs were indicated in step 34, go to the indicated DTC's
troubleshooting.
terminals at the EVAP canister purge valve and the ECM/PCM. If the
ECM/PCM was updated, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (see
SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck. If the ECM/PCM was
substituted, then go to step 1. If the screen indicates EXECUTING or
OUT OF CONDITION, keep idling until result comes on.
DTC P0451: FTP SENSOR RANGE/PERFORMANCE PROBLEM
TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION .
If DTC P2422 is stored at the same time as DTC P0451,
troubleshoot DTC P2422 first, then recheck for DTC
P0451, troubleshoot DTC P2422 first, then recheck for
DTC P0451.
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3. Start the engine, and let it idle 1 minute.
HDS.

YES - Go to step 5.
3 and recheck.
6. Replace the FTP sensor (see FTP Sensor Replacement ).
PROCEDURE ).
10. Start the engine, and let it idle 1 minute.
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor
good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then go to step
10 above. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to step 1. If any other
Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's
troubleshooting.
NO - Go to step 12.
HDS.
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YES - Troubleshooting is complete. IF any other Temporary DTC's or
DTC's were indicated in step 11, go to the indicated DTC's
troubleshooting.
terminals at the FTP sensor and the ECM/PCM. If the ECM/PCM was
ECM/PCM ), then recheck. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, then go to
step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, keep idling until result
comes on.
INFORMATION ).

Are DTC P0107, P0122, and P0452 indicated at the same time?

NO - Go to step 6.
Is about - 7.3 kPa (-2.16 in.Hg, - 55 mmHg), or 0.3 V or less indicated?

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NO - Go to step 10.
HDS.

8 and recheck.

NO - Go to step 17.
ground.
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Is there about 5 V?

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NO - Go to step 18.
18. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E5 and body ground.
Fig. 18: Measuring Voltage Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal E5

And Body Ground
Is there 5 V?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E5) and the FTP
NO - Go to step 41.
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21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P).

body ground.

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YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E14) and the FTP
NO - Go to step 42.
25. Disconnect ECM/PCM connectors A (31P) and E(31P).
26. Disconnect the connectors from these parts:
MAP sensor
TP sensor
FTP sensor
EGR valve
27. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminals
A20, A21, and E5 individually.
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Connector Terminals
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A20, A21, or E5)
and each disconnected part, then go to step 34.
NO - Go to step 28.
28. Reconnect ECM/PCM connectors A (31P) and E (31P).
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ground.

And Body Ground
Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 41.
31. Continue to monitor voltage at ECM/PCM connector terminal A21 while
reconnecting these parts, one at a time:
MAP sensor
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TP sensor
FTP sensor
EGR valve
Did the voltage drop to about 0 V?
YES - Replace the part that caused the voltage to drop, then go to step 36.
NO - Go to step 41.
34. Reconnect the ECM/PCM connectors.
35. Reconnect the FTP sensor 3P connector.
PROCEDURE ).
Is there P0452 indicated?
and the ECM/PCM, then go to step1.
NO - Go to step 40.
HDS.

troubleshooting.
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screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, keep idling until a result comes on.
41. Turn ignition switch OFF.
THE ECM/PCM ).
44. Start the engine, then let it idle for 10 seconds.

good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM then recheck. If
the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to step 1.
NO - Go to step 46. ).
HDS.
ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ). If any other Temporary DTC's or DTCs
were indicated in step 45, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
ECM/PCM ), then go to step 44. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to
step 1. If the screen indicate NOT COMPLETED, keep idling until a result
comes on.
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INFORMATION ).

Is about - 7.3 kPa (-2.16 in.Hg, -55 mmHg), or 0.3 V or less indicated?

NO - Go to step 7.
HDS.

5 and recheck.

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NO - Go to step 14.
ground.

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Is there about 5 V?

NO - Go to step 15.
15. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E5 and body ground.

And Body Ground
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Is there 5 V?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E5) and the FTP
NO - Go to step 28.
body ground.
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YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E14) and the FTP
NO - Go to step 29.
PROCEDURE ).
NO - Go to step 27.
HDS.

troubleshooting.
30. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software (seeUPDATING
THE ECM/PCM ), or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (see
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31. Start the engine, then let it idle without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on.

good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck.
If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to step 1.
NO - Go to step 33.
HDS.

ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM; '05, '06-07
models (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ). If any other Temporary
DTC's or DTC's were indicated in step 32, go to the indicated DTC's
troubleshooting.
updated, substitute a known good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE
ECM/PCM ), then recheck. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to step
1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, keep idling until a result
comes on.
DTC P0453: FTP SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE
INFORMATION ).

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2007 Honda Accord


NO - Go to step 7.
HDS.

6 and recheck.
12. Connect FTP sensor 3P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3 with a jumper
wire.
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Fig. 25: Connecting FTP Sensor 3P Connector Terminals No. 2 And No. 3
With Jumper Wire
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NO - Go to step 25.
15. Measure voltage between FTP sensor 3P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3.
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Fig. 26: Measuring Voltage Between FTP Sensor 3P Connector Terminals

No. 1 And No. 3
Is there about 5 V?
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NO - Go to step 16.
19. Connect FTP sensor 3P connector terminal No. 3 to body ground with a jumper
wire.
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Fig. 27: Connecting FTP Sensor 3P Connector Terminal No. 3 To Body

20. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal E4 and body
ground.
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Fig. 28: Checking Continuity Between ECM/PCM Connector Terminal E4

And Body Ground

NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E4) and the FTP
22. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminals E4 and E14 with a jumper wire.
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Fig. 29: Connecting ECM/PCM Connector Terminals E4 And E14 With

Jumper Wire

NO - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (E14) and the FTP
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PROCEDURE ).
NO - Go to step 32.
HDS.

troubleshooting.
THE ECM/PCM ).

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troubleshooting.
THE ECM/PCM ).
good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck.
If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to step 1.
NO - Go to step 37.
HDS.

ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM; '03-05, '06-
07 (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ). If any other Temporary DTCs
or DTCs were indicated in step 36, go to the indicated DTC's
troubleshooting.
updated, substitute a known good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE
ECM/PCM ), then recheck. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to step
1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, keep idling until a result
comes on.
DTC P0457: EVAP SYSTEM LEAK DETECTED/FUEL CAP LOOSE OR MISSING
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INFORMATION ).
YES - Go to step 2.
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Fig. 30: Checking Fuel Fill Cap Seal And Fuel Fill Pipe Mating Surface
NO - Go to step 3.
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Is the result OK?

connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor or the EVAP canister
vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM.
NO - Go to step 6.
7. Remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve from the EVAP canister; Non-
SULEV model (see Non-SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV
model ).
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YES - Check the routing of the EVAP canister vent tube, then go to step
18.
NO - Go to step 12.
13. Replace the EVAP canister vent shut valve; Non-SULEV model (see Non-
SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV model ).
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PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor or
18. Reinstall the EVAP canister vent shut valve; Non-SULEV model (see Non-
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

NO - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor or
DTC P0496: EVAP SYSTEM HIGH PURGE FLOW
INFORMATION ).

Is the result OK?
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NO - Go to step 4.
5. Replace the EVAP canister purge valve; Non-SULEV model (see Non-
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

DTC P0497: EVAP SYSTEM LOW PURGE FLOW
Vacuum/pressure gauge, 0-4 in.Hg, 07 JAZ-001000B

INFORMATION ).
1. Check the fuel fill cap installation.
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Is the fuel fill cap installed and properly tightened?

YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Properly install the fuel fill cap (the cap must say "Tighten to
click"). It should turn 1/4 turn after it's tight, then go to step 23.
Is the result OK?

NO - Go to step 5.
5. Check for a loose or damaged EVAP canister purge line between the intake
manifold and the EVAP canister purge valve.
Is the line OK?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Reconnect or repair the EVAP canister purge line, then go to step
23.
the engine compartment, and connect a T-fitting (C) from the vacuum gauge
and the vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the EVAP canister purge valve as
shown below.
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In Engine Compartment And Connecting T-Fitting
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7. Select EVAP PCS ON in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
YES - Check for blockage in the EVAP canister purge line between the
intake manifold and the EVAP canister purge valve. If the vacuum hose is
OK, replace the EVAP canister purge valve, then go to step 22.
NO - Go to step 9.
9. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the EVAP canister purge valve.
10. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EVAP canister purge line (EVAP
canister side), and connect a T-fitting (A) from the vacuum gauge and the
vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the hose as shown below.
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Fig. 33: Connecting T-Fitting From Vacuum Gauge And Vacuum

Pump/Gauge To Hose
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11. Select EVAP PCS ON in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
YES - Check for a restricted in the EVAP canister purge line between the
EVAP canister purge valve and the EVAP canister, then go to step 22.
NO - Go to step 13.
13. Remove the FTP sensor with its connector connected (see FTP Sensor
Replacement ).
14. Connect a T-fitting (A) from the vacuum gauge and the commercially available
vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 in.Hg, to the FTP sensor (B) as shown below.
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Fig. 34: Connecting T-Fitting From Vacuum Gauge And Commercially

Available Vacuum Pump/Gauge
15. Check and record the FTP SENSOR reading in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
16. Slowly apply about 1.3 kPa (0.4 in.Hg, 10 mmHg) of vacuum to the hose.
Is the difference more than 1.1 kPa (0.31 in.Hg, 8 mmHg) before and after
applying vacuum?
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NO - Replace the FTP sensor (see FTP Sensor Replacement ), then go to
step 22.
18. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the EVAP canister purge line (EVAP canister
side) and reinstall the FTP sensor.
19. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the EVAP canister purge valve (B), and
connect a T-fitting (C) from the vacuum gauge and the vacuum pump/gauge, 0-
30 in.Hg, to the hose as shown below.
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And Connect T-Fitting
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Does the hose hold vacuum?
YES - Check for blockage at the EVAP canister port, then go to step 22.
NO - Replace the EVAP canister vent shut valve, then go to step 22.
22. Reconnect all hoses.
PROCEDURE ).
Is the result OK?

DTC P0498: EVAP CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE
INFORMATION ).

2. Clear the DTC with the HDS, then wait 5 seconds.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 4.
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YES - Go to step 6.
the ECM/PCM.
8. Measure resistance between EVAP canister vent shut valve 2P connector
2P Connector Terminals No. 1 And No. 2
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Is there about 25-30 ohms at room temperature?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 12.
ground.
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E19 And Body Ground
YES - Repair short in the wire between the EVAP canister vent shut valve
and the ECM/PCM (E19), then go to step 13.
NO - Go to step 21.
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13. Reconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P).
14. Reconnect the EVAP canister vent shut valve 2P connector.
PROCEDURE ).
vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1.
NO - Go to step 20.
20. Monitor the OBD STATUS for DTC P0498 in the DTC's MENU with the
HDS.

DTCs were indicated in step 19, go to the indicated DTCs troubleshooting.
terminals at the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the ECMPCM, then go
to step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 18.
21. Reconnect connectors.
22. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software (see ECM/PCM
REPLACEMENT ), or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (see
24. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with HDS.
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vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM. If the ECM/PCM was updated,
substitute a known-good ECM/CPM (see SUBSTITUTE THE
ECM/PCM ), then go to step 23. If the ECM/PCM was substituted, go to
step 1.
NO - Go to step 25.
HDS.

models, '06-07 models (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ). If any other
Temporary DTC's or DTCs were indicated in step 24, go to the indicated
DTC's troubleshooting.
terminals at the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM. If the
SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then go to step 23. If the ECM/PCM
was substituted, go to step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED,
go to step 23.
DTC P0499: EVAP CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE
INFORMATION ).

2. Clear the DTC with the HDS, then wait 5 seconds.
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YES - Go to step 5.
the ECM/PCM.
8. Measure voltage between EVAP canister vent shut valve 2P connector terminal
No. 2 (No. 1)* and body ground.
*: SULEV model
Fig. 38: Measuring Voltage Between EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve 2P
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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - 2003-2004 models: Repair open in the wire between the EVAP
canister vent shut valve and the No. 18 ACG (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box, then go to step 16.
2005-2007 models: Repair open in the wire between the EVAP canister
vent shut valve and the A/F sensor relay, then go to step 16.

10. At the valve side, Measure resistance between EVAP canister vent shut valve
2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.
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2P Connector Terminals No. 1 And No. 2

Is there about 25-30 ohms at room temperature?

NO - Go to step 15.
13. Connect EVAP canister vent shut valve 2P connector terminal No. 1 (No. 2)*
to body ground with a jumper wire.
*: SULEV model
Fig. 40: Connecting EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve 2P Connector

Terminal No. 1 To Body Ground With Jumper Wire
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ground.

E19 And Body Ground
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the EVAP canister vent shut valve
and the ECM/PCM (E19), then go to step 16.
PROCEDURE ).
vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM, then go to step 1.
NO - Go to step 22.
HDS.

troubleshooting.
NO - IF the screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose
go to step 1. If the screen indicate NOT COMPLETED, go to step20.
25. Select EVAP CVS ON in the INSPECTION MENU with HDS.
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vent shut valve and the ECM/PCM. If the ECM/PCM was updated,
substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTE THE
ECM/PCM ), then go to step 25. If the ECM/CPM was substituted, go to
step1.
NO - IF the screen indicates FAILED, check for poor connections or loose
go to step 1. If the screen indicate NOT COMPLETED, go to step20.
HDS.

ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM; '03-05, '06-07
models (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ). If any other Temporary DTCs
or DTCs were indicated in step 26, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
NO - If the screen indicates FAILED, check the poor connections or loose
terminals at the EVAP canister vent shut valve and ECM/PCM. If the
SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then go to step 25. If the ECM/PCM was
substituted, go to step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step
25.
DTC P1454: FTP SENSOR RANGE/PERFORMANCE PROBLEM; DTC P2422: EVAP CANISTER
VENT SHUT VALVE; STUCK CLOSE MALFUNCTION
INFORMATION ).
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4. Remove the fuel fill cap, and wait 1 minute.
or 2.4-2.6 V?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 17.
HDS.

this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor,
or the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the ECM/ PCM. Also check for
a blockage in the canister filter, vent hoses, and drain joint. If the screen
indicates NOT COMPLETED, go to step 8 and recheck.
12. Remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve from the EVAP canister; Non-
SULEV model (see Non-SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV
model ).
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YES - Check for a blockage in the EVAP canister, canister filter, vent
hoses, and drain joint, then install the EVAP canister vent shut valve, and
go to step 23.
NO - Replace the EVAP canister vent shut valve; Non-SULEV model (see
Non-SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV model ), then go to
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step 23.
17. Disconnect the air tube (A) from the FTP sensor (B).
Fig. 43: Disconnecting Air Tube From FTP Sensor

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or 2.4 - 2.6 V?
YES - Check for a blockage in the FTP sensor air tube, then go to step 23.
NO - Go to step 19.
20. Remove the FTP sensor (A) from the EVAP canister with its connector
connected (see FTP Sensor Replacement ).
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Fig. 44: Removing FTP Sensor From EVAP Canister With Connector
Connected
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or 2.4 - 2.6 V?
YES - Check for debris or clogging at the EVAP canister and the FTP
sensor port, then go to step 23.
NO - Replace the FTP sensor (see FTP Sensor Replacement ), then go to
step 23.
PROCEDURE ).
Is DTC P01454 and/or P2422 Indicated?
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, or
NO - Go to step 28.
HDS.

troubleshooting.
terminals at the FTP sensor, or the EVAP canister vent shut valve and the
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ECM/PCM, then go to step 1. If the screen indicates NOT COMPLETED,

keep idling until the result comes on.
EVAP CANISTER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the EVAP canister cover (A).
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Fig. 45: Removing EVAP Canister Cover (Non-SULEV Model)

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Fig. 46: Removing EVAP Canister Cover (SULEV Model)

2. Remove the hoses (A), the FTP sensor 3P connector (B), and the EVAP
canister vent shut valve 2P connector (C).
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Vent Shut Valve 2P Connector (Non-SULEV Model)
Vent Shut Valve 2P Connector (SULEV Model)
3. Remove the bolts (D).

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4. Remove the EVAP canister assembly (E).

5. Remove the EVAP canister bracket (A).
Fig. 49: Removing EVAP Canister Bracket (Non-SULEV Model)

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Fig. 50: Removing EVAP Canister Bracket (SULEV Model)

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6. Install the canister in the reverse order of removal.

FTP SENSOR REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the EVAP canister (see EVAP Canister Replacement ).

2. Remove the FTP sensor (A).
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3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B).
EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector (A).
Fig. 52: Disconnecting EVAP Canister Purge Valve 2P Connector

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2. Remove the bolts (B) and the hoses (C), then remove the EVAP canister purge
valve assembly (D).
3. Remove the screws (A).
Fig. 53: Removing EVAP Canister Purge Valve Screws

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4. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve (B) from the bracket.
5. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal.
EVAP CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE REPLACEMENT
NON-SULEV MODEL

2. Pry the lock tabs outward (A) then remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve
(B).
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the lock tabs.
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Fig. 54: Removing EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve

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3. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C).
NOTE: Do not coat the O-ring with oil.

SULEV MODEL

2. Remove the cap (A).
Fig. 55: Removing Cap

3. Remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve (B).

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4. Install the valve in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (B).
NOTE: Do not coat the O-ring with engine oil.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Exterior Light - Accord (V6)
Exterior Light - Accord (V6)
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM - BRAKE LIGHTS

2-DOOR ('06-07 MODEL)
Fig. 1: 2-Door Brake Lights Circuit Diagram (2006-07 Model)

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Exterior Light - Accord (V6)

Fig. 2: 4-Door Brake Lights Circuit Diagram (2006-07 Model)

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Exterior Lights - Accord
Exterior Lights - Accord
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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 11:00:24
Fig. 1: Locating Exterior Lights Components

Fig. 2: Locating Exterior Lights Components (4-Door - '03-05 Models)

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Fig. 6: Locating Exterior Lights Components ('03-05 Models)

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Fig. 7: Locating Exterior Lights Components ('06 Model)

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
USA ('03-05 MODELS):
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Fig. 8: Exterior Lights Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

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CANADA ('03-05 MODELS):
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CIRCUIT DIAGRAM - LIGHTING SYSTEM
USA ('06-07 MODELS):
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Fig. 12: Lighting System Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

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CANADA ('06-07 MODELS):
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CIRCUIT DIAGRAM - SIDE MARKER/LICENSE PLATE LIGHTS
4-DOOR ('06-07 MODELS):
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Fig. 16: Side Marker/License Plate Lights Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

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2-DOOR ('06-07 MODELS):
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CIRCUIT DIAGRAM - BACK-UP LIGHTS
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Fig. 20: Back-Up Lights Circuit Diagram ('03-05 Models)

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Fig. 21: Back-Up Lights ('06-07 Model)

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM - BRAKE LIGHTS
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Fig. 22: Brake Lights Circuit Diagram ('03-05 Models)

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Fig. 23: 4-Door ('06 Model) Circuit Diagram - Brake Lights Circuit Diagram
(4-door - '06 Model)
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Fig. 24: 2-Door ('06 Model) Circuit Diagram - Brake Lights Circuit Diagram
(2-door - '06 Model)
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC B1075: HEADLIGHT SIGNAL ERROR
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1. Clear the DTCs using the HDS.

2. Turn the headlights switch from the OFF position to the ON position.
Is DTC B1075 indicated?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Intermittent failure, the headlight circuit is OK at this time. Check
pinfits and connections.
4. With the headlight switch OFF, select LIGHTING SYSTEM from the HDS,
and enter the DATA LIST.
5. Check the ON/OFF information of the Headlight Switch (BACK-UP) in the
DATA LIST.
Is the information indicator OFF?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 10.
6. Turn the headlight switch ON.
7. Check the ON/OFF information of the Headlight Switch (BACK-UP) in the
DATA LIST.
Is the information Indicator ON?
YES - Troubleshoot DTC B1278: Headlight Switch ON Position

Circuit Malfunction .
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Disconnect the relay control module 10P connector (under-hood fuse/relay box
connector I) and the wiper/washer switch 8P connector.
9. Check for continuity between the No. 6 terminal of the relay control module
10P connector and the No. 1 terminal of the wiper/washer switch (combination
switch control unit) 8P connector.
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Fig. 25: Checking Continuity Between No. 6 Terminal Of Relay Control

Module 10P Connector & No.1 Terminal Of Wiper/Washer Switch 8P
Connector
YES - Faulty combination switch control unit; replace the wiper/washer
switch.
NO - Repair an open in the WHT wire.
10. Disconnect the relay control module 10P connector.
11. Check for continuity between the No. 6 terminal of the relay control module
10P connector and body ground.
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Fig. 26: Checking Continuity Between No. 6 Terminal Of Relay Control

Module 10P Connector And Body Ground
YES - Repair a short in the WHT wire.

NO - Faulty combination switch control unit; replace the wiper/washer
switch.
DTC B1078:DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS SIGNAL ERROR (CANADA)

2. Cycle the ignition switch to OFF and then back ON.
3. Operate the parking brake lever.
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YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure, the daytime running lights system is OK at this
time. Check pinfits and connections.
5. Turn the headlight switch ON, then push the combination light switch forward
for high beams.
Do both headlights come on?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 9.
6. Turn the headlight switch OFF.
7. Select LIGHTING SYSTEM from the HDS, and enter the DATA LIST.
8. Check the ON/OFF information of the DRL Relay Command (Canada) in the
DATA LIST.
Is the information indicator ON?
YES - Replace the daytime running lights relay.

NO - Go to the relay control module input test (see RELAY CONTROL
MODULE INPUT TEST ).
9. Check the No. 3 (10 A) or No. 5 (10 A) fuses in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
Are both fuses OK?

NO - Replace the blown fuse and recheck the system.
10. Check headlight bulbs.
Are both bulbs OK?

NO - Replace the blown bulb and recheck the system.
11. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the headlight (high beam)
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2P connectors and the No. 8 (left headlight) or No. 10 (right headlight)

terminals of the under-hood fuse/relay box 14P connector H.
Fig. 27: Checking Continuity Between No. 2 Terminal Of Headlight (High

Beam) 2P Connectors & No. 8 (Left Headlight) Or No. 10 (Right
Headlight) Terminal Of Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Connector

NO - Repair an open in the WHT/YEL (left headlight) or WHT/GRN
(right headlight) wire.
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12. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the headlight (high beam)
2P connectors and body ground.
Fig. 28: Checking Continuity Between No. 1 Terminal Of Headlight (High

Beam) 2P Connectors And Body Ground
YES - Faulty relay control module; replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.
NO - Check the daytime running lights relay (left headlight). If OK, repair
an open in the BLK wire or poor ground (G201, G301).
DTC B1079: DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS MALFUNCTION (USA) ('06-07 MODELS)
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1. Clear the DTCs with the HDS.

3. Make sure the brake pedal position switch is OFF.
4. Make sure the headlight switch is OFF.
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Intermittent failure. The daytime running light system is OK at this
time. Check for loose or poor connections.
7. Turn the headlight switch ON, then push the combination light switch forward
for high beams.
Do both headlights come on?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - If one of the headlights doesn't come on, check the fuse and bulb,
and for a poor ground (G201, G301) or an open in the wire. If both
headlights don't come on, go to step 11.
8. Turn the headlight switch OFF.
9. Select LIGHTING SYSTEM from the HDS, and enter the DATA LIST.
10. Check the ON/OFF information of the DRL Command in the DATA LIST.
Is the information indicator ON?
YES - Go to relay control module input test (see RELAY CONTROL

NO - Substitute a known-good daytime running light control unit and
recheck the system
11. Check the No. 3 (10 A) and No. 5 (10 A) fuses in the under-hood fuse/relay
box.
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Are both fuses OK?

NO - Replace the blown fuse, and recheck the system.
12. Check the headlight bulbs.
Are both bulbs OK?

NO - Replace the blown bulb, and recheck the system.
13. Disconnect the 2P connector from each headlight high beam.
14. Disconnect under-hood fuse/relay box connector H (14P).
15. Check for continuity between left headlight high beam 2P connector terminal
No. 2 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector H (14P) terminal No. 8, and
between right headlight high beam 2P connector terminal No. 2 and under-
hood fuse/relay box connector H (14P) terminal No. 10.
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Fig. 29: Checking Continuity Between Left Headlight High Beam 2P

Connector Terminal No. 2 & Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Connector

NO - Repair an open in the wire.
16. Check for continuity between each headlight high beam 2P connector terminal
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Fig. 30: Checking Continuity Between Each Headlight High Beam 2P

Connector Terminal No. 1 & Body Ground
YES - Faulty relay control module; replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.
NO - Repair an open in the wire or a poor ground (G201, G301).
DTC B1275: HEADLIGHT SWITCH OFF POSITION CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION; DTC B1276:
HEADLIGHT SWITCH PARKING (SMALL) POSITION CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION; DTC B1277:
HEADLIGHT SWITCH AUTO POSITION CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION; DTC B1278: HEADLIGHT
SWITCH ON POSITION CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

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Is DTC B1275, B1276, B1277 or B1278 indicated?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Intermittent failure, the headlight system is OK at this time. Check
pinfits and connections.
4. Reset the DTCs using the HDS.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and wait for 2 seconds.
6. Turn the parking (small) light switch ON and wait for 2 seconds.
7. Turn the headlight light switch (LOW) ON and wait for 2 seconds.
8. Change the dimmer switch position from low beam to high beam and wait for
2 seconds.
9. Check the DTCs using the HDS.
Is DTC B1275, B1276, B1277, B1278 indicated?

NO - Intermittent failure, the combination switch and the control unit are
OK at this time. Check pinfits and connections.
10. Disconnect the combination light switch 12P connector from the wiper/washer
switch.
11. Perform the combination light switch test (see COMBINATION LIGHT
SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
Is the combination light switch check OK?
YES - Faulty combination switch control unit, replace the wiper/washer

switch.
NO - Replace the combination light switch.
DTC B1279:HEADLIGHT SWITCH DIMMER POSITION CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

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YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Intermittent failure. The turn signal switch circuit is OK at this time.
Check pinfits and connections.
4. Reset the DTCs by CLEAR MENU (DTC CLEAR) of the HDS.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then turn the headlight switch ON.
6. Change the combination light switch from low beam to high beam and wait for
2 seconds.
7. Pull and hold the combination light switch lever and keep the passing switch
position for more than 2 seconds.
8. Check for DTCs by selecting the DTCs MENU (DTCs) from the HDS.
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Intermittent failure, the combination switch and the combination
switch control unit are OK at this time. Check pinfits and connections.
switch.
10. Perform the combination light switch test (see COMBINATION LIGHT
SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
Is the combination light switch OK?
YES - Faulty combination switch control unit, replace the wiper/washer

switch.
NO - Replace the combination light switch.
DTC B1280: TURN SIGNAL SWITCH CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

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YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Intermittent failure. The turn signal switch circuit is OK at this time.
4. Reset the DTCs by CLEAR MENU (DTC CLEAR) of the HDS.
6. Turn the turn signal switch to the left position and wait for 2 seconds.
7. Turn the turn signal switch to the right position and wait for 2 seconds.
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Intermittent failure, the turn signal light switch and the combination
switch control unit are OK at this time. Check pinfits and connections.
switch.
10. Check for short in the turn signal light switch terminals in each switch position
(see COMBINATION LIGHT SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
Is there a short?
YES - Faulty, turn signal light switch, replace the combination light
switch.
NO - Faulty combination switch control unit, replace the wiper/washer
switch.
DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST
USA ('06-07 MODELS)
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NOTE: Before troubleshooting the daytime running lights

control system, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated
control system first using B-CAN System Diagnosis
Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).
Make sure the headlights high beam come on normally
with the combination light switch ON.

2. Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the daytime running lights control unit
(B).
Fig. 31: Disconnecting 14P Connector From Daytime Running Lights

Control Unit
3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good
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contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary and
recheck the system.
4. Reconnect the connector to the daytime running lights control unit, and make
these input tests at the connector.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the
system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
RUNNING LIGHTS CONTROL UNIT SPECIFICATION

Test: Possible cause
Test
Cavity Wire Desired if result is not
condition
result obtained
Check for Poor
13 voltage to ground
Under all ground. (G501,
BLK
conditions There should G601)
14 be less than An open in
1 V. the wire
Blown No.
21 (7.5 A)
Check for
fuse in the
voltage to
Ignition driver's
ground.
8 YEL switch ON under-dash
There should
(II). fuse/relay
be battery
box
voltage.
An open in
the wire
Blown No.
19 (40 A)
fuse in the
under-hood
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fuse/relay
box
Blown No.
Check for
3 (10 A)
voltage to
fuse in the
Under all ground
1 RED/WHT driver's
conditions There should
under-dash
be battery
fuse/relay
voltage.
box
An Open in
the wire
5. Disconnect the 14P connector from the daytime running lights control unit, and
make these input tests at the connector.
system.
If all input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty: replace it.
CONTROL UNIT SPECIFICATION

Possible cause
Test Test: Desired
Cavity Wire if result is not
condition result
obtained
Check for
continuity
between the
No. 2 terminal
and under-
Under all hood An open in the
2 BLU/WHT
conditions fuse/relay box wire
connector H
(14P) No. 3
terminal:
There should
be continuity.
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Faulty
Check for
under-hood
continuity to
Under all fuse/relay
7 WHT ground: There
conditions box
should be
continuity. A open in
the wire
BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH TEST
1. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the brake pedal position switch (B).
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Fig. 32: Disconnecting 4P Connector From Brake Pedal Position Switch

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2. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals.

There should be continuity when the brake pedal is pressed.
There should be no continuity when the brake pedal is released.
3. Check for continuity between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals (with cruise
control).
There should be no continuity when the brake pedal is pressed.
There should be continuity when the brake pedal is released.
4. If necessary, adjust or replace the switch, or adjust the pedal height (see
PEDAL HEIGHT ).
HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT
CAUTION: Headlights become very hot during use; do not touch

them or any attaching hardware immediately after
they have been turned off.
Before adjusting the headlights:

Park the vehicle on a level surface.
Make sure the tire pressures are correct.
The driver or someone who weighs the same should sit in the driver's seat.
1. Clean the outer lens so that you can see the center (A) of the headlights.
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Fig. 33: Cleaning Outer Lens Of Center Of Headlights

2. Park the vehicle in front of a wall or a screen (A).
Fig. 34: Parking Vehicle In Front Of Wall Or Screen

3. Turn the low beams on.

4. Determine if the headlights are aimed properly.
Vertical adjustment:
Measure the height of the headlights (A). The lights should reflect 52 mm (2.1
in.) below headlight height (B).
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Fig. 35: Measuring Height Of Headlights Lights

5. If necessary, open the hood and adjust the headlights to local requirements by
turning the vertical adjuster.
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Fig. 36: Opening Hood And Adjusting Headlights Turning Vertical

Adjuster
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HEADLIGHT REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the front bumper.

2. Remove the connectors (A) from the headlight assembly (B).
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Fig. 37: Removing Connectors From Headlight Assembly

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3. Remove the five mounting bolts and the harness clip, then remove the
headlight.
4. Remove the bolt and the corner upper beam (C) from the headlight.
5. Install the headlight in the reverse order of removal.
6. After replacement, adjust the headlight to local requirement.
BULB REPLACEMENT
HEADLIGHT
1. For low beam headlight bulb, remove the inner fender (see FRONT INNER
FENDER REPLACEMENT ).
2. Disconnect the 2P connectors (A) from the headlight.
Headlight (high beam): 60 W
Headlight (low beam): 51 W
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Fig. 38: Disconnecting 2P Connectors From Headlight (High Beam)

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Fig. 39: Disconnecting 2P Connectors From Headlight (Low Beam)

3. Turn the bulb socket (B) 45 counterclockwise to remove the bulb.
4. Install a new bulb in the reverse order of removal.
FRONT TURN SIGNAL/SIDE MARKER LIGHTS
1. Remove the inner fender (see FRONT INNER FENDER

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REPLACEMENT ).
2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the front turn signal/side marker light.
Front Turn Signal/Side Marker Lights: 21/5 W
Fig. 40: Disconnecting 3P Connector From Front Turn Signal/Side

Marker Light
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4. Install a new bulb in the reverse order of removal.
TAILLIGHT REPLACEMENT
TAILLIGHT (2-DOOR)
1. Remove the rear bumper (see REAR BUMPER

2. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk side trim panel (see TRIM
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TRUNK AREA ).
3. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the taillights (B).
Brake/Taillight ('03-05 models): 21/5 W
Back-up Light ('03-05 models): 16 W
Brake/Taillight ('06-07 models): LED
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Fig. 41: Disconnecting Connectors From Taillights ('03-05 Models)

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4. Remove the mounting nuts and screws, then remove the taillight.
5. Turn the turn signal light bulb socket 45 counterclockwise to remove the bulb.
Turn Signal Light: 21 W
Fig. 43: Turning Signal Light Bulb Socket Counterclockwise

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6. Inspect the gasket; replace it if it is distorted or stays compressed.
7. Install the taillight in the reverse order of removal and tighten the nuts to 5 N.m
(0.5 kgf.m, 4 ldf.ft).
8. After installing the taillight, run water over it to make sure it does not leak.
TAILLIGHT (4-DOOR)
1. Remove the rear bumper (see 4-DOOR ).

2. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk side trim panel (see 4-DOOR ('03-05
MODELS) ).
3. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the taillights (B).
Brake/Taillight ('03-05 models): 21/5 W
Brake/Taillight ('06 model): LED
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4. Remove the mounting nuts and screws, then remove the taillight.
5. Turn the turn signal light bulb socket 45 counterclockwise to remove the bulb.
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Turn Signal Light: 21 W
Fig. 46: Turning Signal Light Bulb Socket Counterclockwise

6. Inspect the gasket; replace it if it is distorted or stays compressed.
7. Install the taillight in the reverse order of removal and tighten the nuts to 5 N.m
(0.5 kgf.m, 4 ldf.ft).
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INNER TAILLIGHT (4-DOOR) ('03-05 MODELS)
1. Open the trunk lid and disconnect the connectors (A) from the trunk lid.
Taillight: 5 W
Back-up Light: 21 W
Fig. 47: Opening Trunk Lid And Disconnecting Connectors From Trunk
Lid
2. Remove the three nuts and the inner taillight (B).
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3. Turn the bulb socket 45 counterclockwise to remove the bulb.

4. Inspect the gasket; replace it. If it is distorted or stays compressed.
5. Install the taillight and tighten the nuts to 5 N.m (0.5 kgf.m, 4 lbf.ft).
LICENSE PLATE LIGHT REPLACEMENT
1. 2-door, 4-door ('06-07 models): Remove the rear license plate trim (see '03-07
MODELS 2-DOOR ).
2. Pull the license plate light assembly out, and disconnect the 2P connector (A)
from the light.
License Plate Light: 5 W
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Fig. 48: Disconnecting 2P Connector From Light (4-Door - '03-05 Models)

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Fig. 49: Disconnecting 2P Connector From Light (2-Door, 4-Door - '06-07

Models)
3. Separate the lens (B) and housing (C), then remove the bulb.
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4. Install the light in the reverse order of removal.

TAILLIGHT/BRAKE LIGHT LED REPLACEMENT
2-door ('06-07 models)

1. Remove the taillight (see TAILLIGHT REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the gasket (A) from the taillight.
Fig. 50: Removing Gasket From Taillight

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3. Release and uncoil the taillight harness (B) from the taillight housing. Note the
installation of the harness.
4. Remove the four screws. Carefully disconnect the connector (C) from the
taillight/brake light LED (D).
5. Inspect the gaskets. If the gaskets are distorted or compressed, replace them.
6. Install the new LED in the reverse order of removal.
4-DOOR ('06-07 MODELS)
1. Remove the taillight (see TAILLIGHT (4-DOOR) ).

2. Remove the gasket (A) from the taillight.
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Fig. 51: Removing Gasket From Taillight

3. Remove the four screws. Carefully disconnect the connector (B) from the
taillight/brake light LED (C).
4. Inspect the gaskets. If the gaskets are distorted or compressed, replace them.
5. Install the new LED in the reverse order of removal.
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BACK-UP LIGHT BULB REPLACEMENT

1. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk lid trim (see 4-DOOR ).
2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the back-up light.
3. Turn the bulb socket (A) 45 counterclockwise, then remove the bulb (B).
Back-up Light: 21 CP
Fig. 52: Turning Bulb Socket Counterclockwise

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4. Install the bulb in the reverse order of removal.
BACK-UP LIGHT REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the rear license trim (see REAR LICENSE TRIM

REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the four screws, then remove the back-up lights (A).
Fig. 53: Removing Back-Up Lights

3. Install the back-up lights in the reverse order of removal.
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HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT

BULB REPLACEMENT ('03-05 MODELS)
1. Open the trunk lid and disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the bulb socket
(B).
High Mount Brake Light: 21 W
Fig. 54: Disconnecting 2P Connector From Bulb Socket

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HOUSING REPLACEMENT ('03-05 MODELS)
1. Remove the rear shelf.

2 door (see 2-DOOR )
2. Remove the high mount brake light housing (A) from the cover (B).
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Fig. 55: Removing High Mount Brake Light Housing From Cover
'06-07 MODELS
1. Open the trunk lid.

2. Remove the trunk lid trim.
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3. Remove the four nuts and the high mount brake light (A).
Fig. 56: Removing High Mount Brake Light

4. Disconnect the 2P connector (B) from the high mount brake light.
5. Install the light in the reverse order of removal.
COMBINATION LIGHT SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover (see DRIVER'S DASHBOARD LOWER

COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
2. Remove the steering column covers (see STEERING COLUMN
3. Disconnect the 12P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B).
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Fig. 57: Disconnecting 12P Connector From Wiper/Washer Switch

4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the combination light switch (A).
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Fig. 58: Sliding Out Combination Light Switch

5. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and
recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in
each switch position according to the tables shown in Fig. 59 & Fig. 60.
- If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.
Light switch:
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Fig. 59: Checking Continuity Between Terminals Table (Light

Switch)
Fig. 60: Checking Continuity Between Terminals Table (Turn

Signal Switch)
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Exterior Trim - Accord (V6)
Exterior Trim - Accord (V6)
SIDE SILL PANEL REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the side sill panel.

-1 Remove the screws (A), and if equipped, remove the splash guard (B).
-2 Pull the inner fender (C) back as necessary, and remove the clips (D,
E), fastening the side sill panel (F) and the middle floor under cover (G).
-3 Slide the side sill panel forward, and remove it. The side clips (H) will
stay in the body.
-4 Remove the side clips from the body.
Fig. 1: Identifying Side Sill Panel

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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 12:17:40
2. Check the clips for damage or stress-whitening, and replace them with new
one.
3. Install the side clips on the side sill panel.
4. Hold the panel up, and fit all the side clips into the holes in the body, then push
on the panel until the clips snap into place.
5. Install all the clips.
6. Reinstall the inner fender and splash guard.
EMBLEM/STICKER REPLACEMENT
2-DOOR
NOTE: When removing the emblems/sticker, take care not to

scratch the body.
1. Clean the body surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning,
keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
2. Apply the emblems/sticker where shown. When installing the LEV/ULEV
sticker on the inside surface of the quarter glass, align the sticker application
tape with the edge of the black ceramic and alignment mark on the quarter
glass, then press the sticker into place, and remove the application tape.
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Fig. 2: Identifying Emblem/Sticker (2-Door)

2003-05 MODELS 4-DOOR

scratch the body.
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sticker ('03-05 models), SULEV sticker ('03-04 models) on the inside surface
of the rear door quarter glass, align rear edge of the application tape and
bottom of the sticker with the glass mark, then press the sticker into place, and
remove the application tape.
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Fig. 3: Identifying Emblem/Sticker (2003-05 Models 4-Door)

2006-2007 MODEL 4-DOOR

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scratch the body.
sticker on the inside surface of the rear door quarter glass, align rear edge of
the application tape and bottom of the sticker with the glass mark, then press
the-sticker into place, and remove the application tape.
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Fig. 4: Identifying Emblem/Sticker (2006-07 Model 4-Door)

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Exterior Trim - Accord
Exterior Trim - Accord
FRONT GRILLE REPLACEMENT

2-DOOR
1. Remove the front bumper (see 2-DOOR ).

2. '03-05 models: Remove the screws and release the hooks (A), and remove the
front grille (B) from the front bumper (C) by pulling it out. Take care not to
scratch the front bumper.
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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 12:18:39
Fig. 1: Removing Front Grille (2003-05 Models - 2-Door))

3. '06-07 models: Remove the clips (A) and screws (B), and remove the front
grille (C) from the front bumper (D) by pulling it out. Take care not to scratch
the front bumper.
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Fig. 2: Removing Front Grille (2006 Model - 2-Door)

4. Install the grille in the reverse order of removal.

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4-DOOR
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to
Take care not to scratch the front bulkhead cover and
front grille.
1. Remove the clips (A, B) and detach the hooks (C), then remove the front
bulkhead cover (D).
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Fig. 3: Removing Front Bulkhead Cover

2. '03-05 models: Remove the clips, then remove the front grille (A). Take care
not to drop the clips inside the front bumper.
Fig. 4: Removing Front Grille (2003-05 Models - 4-Door)

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3. '06-07 models: Remove the clips (A) and screws (B), then remove the front
grille (C). Take care not to drop the clips and screws inside the front bumper
(D).
Fig. 5: Removing Front Grille ('06-07 Models - 4-Door)

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4. '06-07 models: If necessary, remove the screws, then remove the upper grille
molding (A) from the front grille.
Fig. 6: Removing Upper Grille Molding From Front Grille (2006 Models -
4-Door)
5. Install the front grille in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Check the clip is not damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary,
replaced it with new one.
Push the front hook portions into place securely.
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FRONT FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the body.
1. Remove the clips fastening the front bulkhead cover (A) and the front fender
trim (B).
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Fig. 7: Removing Clips Fastening Front Bulkhead Cover

2. Pull up the rear of the front bulkhead cover, then remove the front fender trim
by releasing the hooks (C) from the body.
3. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clip is
COWL COVER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the windshield wiper arms (see WIPER MOTOR

REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the hood rear seal (A) by pulling it out. Using a clip remover, detach
the clips (B) from the cowl covers. Take care not to scratch the cowl covers.
Fig. 8: Removing Hood Rear Seal

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3. Detach the clips (C, D) by carefully pulling the passenger's cowl cover (E)
upward, and release the hooks (F) on the passenger's cowl cover from the
driver's side, then remove the cover. Take care not to scratch the body.
4. Disconnect the windshield washer tubes (G).
5. Detach the clips (C, D, H) by carefully pulling the driver's cowl cover (I)
upward, then remove the cover. Take care not to scratch the body.
6. Install the covers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
it with new one.
Make sure the washer tubes are connected securely.
ROOF MOLDING REPLACEMENT

Take care not to damage the windshield.
Do not use any of metallic tools to remove the roof
molding, or you may chip the edge of the windshield
and cracks in the windshield will occur.
Take care not to bend the roof molding.
MOLDING REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the cowl cover (see COWL COVER REPLACEMENT ).

2. Remove the windshield portion of the roof molding (A).
-1 Carefully insert a plastic trim tool (B) under the molding next to the clip
(C).
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-2 While pulling the clip portion of the molding up by hand, push each of
the eight small hooks (D) in the numbered sequence shown in Fig. 9 to
release the clip from the retainer (E).
Do not try to pry up the clip even if it is hard to release from the retainer.
-3 Gradually work your way up to release each of the upper clips (F, G,
H).
-4 Slide the molding off the lower clip (I).
-5 Rotate the lower clip to remove it.
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Fig. 9: Removing Windshield Portion Of Roof Molding

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3. Pull up and slide the middle portion (A) of the roof molding to release it from
the retainers (B).
Fig. 10: Sliding Middle Portion Of Roof Molding (2-Door)

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Fig. 11: Sliding Middle Portion Of Roof Molding (4-Door)

4. Pull up the front portion of roof molding.
5. Pull up and release the rear end of the roof molding (A) from the pin (B), then
remove the roof molding (C).
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Fig. 12: Releasing Rear End Of Roof Molding From Pin

6. Install the molding in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the roof molding is installed securely.
Check if the clip is damaged or stressed whitened, and if necessary,

replace it with new one.
RETAINER REPLACEMENT (4-DOOR ADHESIVE TYPE)
1. Gradually scrape off the adhesive tape (A) under the retainers (B) while
heating it with a heat gun.
NOTE: Do not heat the painted body surface around the

retainers too much.
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To keep the exterior resin parts near the A-pillar from

being overheated by the heat gun, wrap them with
aluminum foil.
Fig. 13: Scraping Off Adhesive Tape Under Retainers

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2. Clean the body bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After
cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
3. Install the upper retainers (A) and the lower retainers (B).
-1 Peel the adhesive backing away from the upper and lower retainers.
-2 Line up the retainers with the alignment marks (C) on the body, and
attach the retainers with adhesive tape (D) (3M 9259, or equivalent).
-3 Apply epoxy two-part mixing adhesive (E) around the edge of the
retainers as shown below.
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Fig. 14: Installing Upper And Lower Retainers

RETAINER REPLACEMENT (T-STUD TYPE)
1. While prying the middle hooks (A) with a flat-tip screwdriver, slide the upper
retainers (B) and lower retainers (C) upward to release them from the T-studs
(D) on the A-pillar. Take care not to scratch the body.
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Fig. 15: Sliding Upper Retainers And Lower Retainers (2-Door)

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Fig. 16: Sliding Upper Retainers And Lower Retainers (4-Door)

2. Install the retainers in the reverse order of removal.

DOOR MOLDING REPLACEMENT

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4-DOOR
Be careful not to pry too far or you may bend the
molding.
1. Prepare to release the molding clips from inside the vehicle.

To remove the front door molding, remove the front door panel (see
FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) and plastic
cover.
To remove the rear door molding, remove the rear door panel (see REAR
DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) and plastic cover.
2. Release the clips (A) and gently pry the front door molding (B) or rear door
molding (C) away from the door while separating the adhesive tape (D, E, F).
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Fig. 17: Removing Front & Rear Door Moldings While Separating
Adhesive Tape
3. Install the moldings in the reverse order or removal, and check the clips for
damage or stress-whitening, and replace them with new ones and adhesive
tape.
SIDE SILL PANEL REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the side sill panel.

-1 On the back of the wheel Arch, remove the screws. If equipped, remove
the front splash guard (A).
-2 Remove the expansion clips (B).
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-3 Pull the inner fender (C) back as necessary, and slide the side sill panel
(D) forward, and remove it. The side clips (E) will stay in the body.
-4 Remove the side clips from the body.
Fig. 18: Removing Side Sill Panel

2. Check if the clip is damaged or stress whitened, and if necessary, replace it

with new one.
3. Install the side clips on the side sill panel.
4. Hold the panel up, and fit all the side clips into the holes in the body, then push
on the panel until the clips snap into place.
5. Install all the expansion clips.
6. Reinstall the inner fender (and splash guard).
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REAR LICENSE TRIM REPLACEMENT

'03-07 MODELS 2-DOOR
1. On the inside of the trunk lid, remove the nuts (A), and release the clips (B, C,
D), then remove the rear license trim (E). Take care not to scratch the trunk lid.
Fig. 19: Removing Rear License Trim

2. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clip is
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'06-07 MODEL 4-DOOR
1. Remove the trunk lid trim (see 4-DOOR ).

2. From inside the trunk lid, disconnect back-up connectors (A), then remove the
nuts.
Fig. 20: Disconnecting Back-Up Connectors

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3. On the inside of the trunk lid, release the clips (A, B, C), then remove the rear
license trim (D). Take care not to scratch the trunk lid.
Fig. 21: Removing Clips And Rear License Trim

TRUNK LID SPOILER REPLACEMENT
'05 MODEL 2-DOOR (CANADA)
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1. Remove the trunk trim panel (see 2-DOOR ).

2. From inside the trunk, remove the bolts and nuts.
Fig. 22: Removing Trunk Bolts And Nuts

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3. Install the spoiler in the order of removal.
EMBLEM/STICKER REPLACEMENT
2-DOOR

scratch the body.
2. Apply the emblems/sticker where shown below. When installing the
LEV/ULEV/PZEV ('05-07 models) sticker on the inside surface of the quarter
glass, align the sticker application tape with the edge of the black ceramic and
the alignment mark on the quarter glass, then press the sticker into place, and
remove the application tape.
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Fig. 23: Applying Emblem/Sticker (2-Door Models)


scratch the body.
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LEV/ULEV/SULEV ('03-05 models)/ZEV/PZEV/AT-PZEV ('05-07 models)
sticker on the inside surface of the rear door quarter glass, align the rear edge
of the application tape and bottom of the sticker with the glass mark, then press
the sticker into place, and remove the application tape.
Fig. 24: Applying Emblem/Sticker (2003-05 Models 4-Door)

'06-07 MODEL 4-DOOR
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scratch the body.
LEV/ZEV/PZEV/AT-PZEV sticker on the inside surface of the rear door
quarter glass, align the rear edge of the application tape and bottom of the
sticker with the glass mark, then press the sticker into place, and remove the
application tape.
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Fig. 25: Applying Emblem/Sticker (2006 Model 4-Door)

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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 ENGINE Fan Controls - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Fan Controls - Accord (V6)
Fig. 1: Locating Fan Controls Components

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Monday, April 27, 2009 4:10:18
2007 Honda Accord


Also check
Symptom Diagnostic Procedure
for
1. Inspect the water pump (see
WATER PUMP
INSPECTION ).
2. Check the thermostat (see
THERMOSTAT TEST ).
3. Check for any engine coolant
leakage (from gaskets, hoses, O-
rings, etc.).
4. Check for dirt, leaves, or insects
on radiator and condenser.
5. Check for a damaged or
deformed fan shroud.
Engine overheats 6. Check for a plugged or
deteriorated radiator hoses.
7. Check the radiator cap (see
RADIATOR CAP TEST ).
8. Inspect the fan motors (see FAN
MOTOR TEST ) or fan relays
(see POWER RELAY TEST ).
9. Check for plugged heater core or
hoses.
10. Check the coolant level.
11. Check for deteriorated coolant.
12. Check for a damaged cylinder
head gasket.
The radiator fan runs at Radiator fan high speed circuit Cleanliness
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2007 Honda Accord
low speed, but does not troubleshooting (see RADIATOR and tightness
run at high speed when the FAN HIGH SPEED CIRCUIT of all
engine coolant temperature TROUBLESHOOTING ). connectors
is above 206F (97C)
With the A/C off and the
Remove the fan control relay, and
engine coolant temperature
test.
at 206F (97C) or below,
the A/C condenser fan runs If the relay is faulty, replace it.
Cleanliness
at high speed and the and tightness
If the relay is OK, check for a
radiator fan does not run. of all
short in the wire between fan
When the engine coolant connectors
control relay 5P socket terminal
temperature is above 206
No. 1 and condenser fan motor
F (97C), both fans run at
2P connector terminal No. 1.
high speed
The radiator fan and the
A/C condenser fan run at
Check for a short in the wire between Cleanliness
high speed with the
radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal and tightness
ignition switch ON (II), the
No. 4 and ECM/PCM connector of all
A/C off, and the engine
terminal A7. connectors
coolant temperature below
204 F (95 C)
Both the radiator fan and
Check for a short in the wire between Cleanliness
the A/C condenser fan run
A/C condenser fan relay 4P socket and tightness
at low speed with the
terminal No. 4 and ECM/PCM of all
ignition switch ON (II) and
connector terminal A6. connectors
the A/C off
Radiator and A/C condenser fans low
Both the radiator fan and speed circuit troubleshooting (see Cleanliness
the A/C condenser fan do RADIATOR AND A/C and tightness
not run at low speed with CONDENSER FAN LOW SPEED of all
the A/C on CIRCUIT connectors
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
The A/C condenser fan A/C condenser fans high speed
does not run at all. The circuit troubleshooting (see A/C Cleanliness
radiator fan does not run at CONDENSER FAN HIGH SPEED and tightness
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2007 Honda Accord
low speed, but it runs at CIRCUIT of all

high speed TROUBLESHOOTING ). connectors
Both the radiator fan and
the A/C condenser fan do Check for an open in the wire Cleanliness
not run at high speed when between radiator fan relay 4P socket and tightness
the engine coolant terminal No. 4 and ECM/PCM of all
temperature is above 206 connector terminal A7. connectors
F (97C)
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Fan Controls Circuit Diagram

RADIATOR FAN HIGH SPEED CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Check the No. 11 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 23
(7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
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2007 Honda Accord
Are the fuses OK?

YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse(s) and recheck.
2. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box and test it
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Replace the radiator fan relay.
3. Measure the voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 3: Measuring Voltage Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket


YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between radiator fan relay 4P socket
terminal No. 1 and the under-hood fuse/relay box.
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2007 Honda Accord
4. Connect radiator fan relay 4P socket terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper
wire.
Fig. 4: Connecting Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket Terminals No. 1 And

No. 2 With Jumper Wire
Does the radiator fan run at high speed?
YES - Go to step 5.
terminal No. 2 and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
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2007 Honda Accord

6. Measure voltage between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body
ground.

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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Repair an open in the wire between radiator fan relay 4P socket
terminal No. 4 and engine control module (ECM)/the powertrain control
module (PCM) (A3).
terminal No. 3 and the under-dash fuse/relay box.
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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 ENGINE Fan Controls - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Fan Controls - Accord
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Monday, April 27, 2009 4:12:11
2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Fan Controls Component Location Index

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2007 Honda Accord

'03-04 MODELS
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX (2003-2004 MODELS)

1. Inspect the water pump

(see WATER PUMP
INSPECTION ).
2. Check for a broken
drive belt (see DRIVE
BELT
INSPECTION ).
3. Check the drive belt
auto-tensioner (see
DRIVE BELT AUTO-
TENSIONER
INSPECTION ).
4. Check the thermostat
Engine overheats (see THERMOSTAT
TEST ).
5. Check for the coolant
leakage (from gaskets,
hoses, O-rings, etc.).
6. Check for dirt, leaves,
or insects on radiator
and condenser.
8. Check for plugged or
deteriorated radiator
hoses.
9. Check the radiator cap
(see RADIATOR CAP
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2007 Honda Accord
TEST ).
10. Inspect the fan motors
or fan relays.
11. Check for plugged
heater core or hose(s).
13. Check for deteriorated
coolant.
14. Check for a damaged
cylinder head gasket.
Radiator fan circuit
The radiator fan troubleshooting (see
Cleanliness and tightness of all
does not run at RADIATOR FAN
connectors
all CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Radiator fan switch circuit
The radiator fan
troubleshooting (Open) (see
does not run for
RADIATOR FAN Cleanliness and tightness of all
engine cooling,
SWITCH CIRCUIT connectors
but it runs with
TROUBLESHOOTING
the A/C on
(OPEN) ).
The radiator fan
runs with the
Radiator fan switch circuit
ignition switch
troubleshooting (Short) (see
ON (II), the A/C
RADIATOR FAN Cleanliness and tightness of all
off, and the
SWITCH CIRCUIT connectors
engine coolant
TROUBLESHOOTING
temperature
(SHORT) ).
below 199F (93
C)
The A/C HVAC DTCs (see
condenser fan A/C condenser fan circuit GENERAL
does not run at troubleshooting (see A/C TROUBLESHOOTING
all (but the CONDENSER FAN INFORMATION )
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radiator fan runs CIRCUIT Cleanliness and tightness

with the A/C on) TROUBLESHOOTING ). of all connectors
Both the radiator
Radiator and A/C condenser
fan and the A/C HVAC DTCs (see
fan common circuit
condenser fan do GENERAL
troubleshooting (see
not run with the TROUBLESHOOTING
RADIATOR AND A/C
A/C on (but the INFORMATION )
CONDENSER FAN
A/C compressor Cleanliness and tightness
COMMON CIRCUIT
runs with the A/C of all connectors
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
on)
The A/C
compressor
HVAC DTCs (see
clutch does not A/C compressor clutch
GENERAL
engage (but both circuit troubleshooting (see
TROUBLESHOOTING
the radiator fan A/C COMPRESSOR
INFORMATION )
and the A/C CLUTCH CIRCUIT
condenser fan TROUBLESHOOTING ). Cleanliness and tightness
run with the A/C of all connectors
on)
'05-07 MODELS
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX (2005-2006 MODELS)

1. Inspect the water pump
(see WATER PUMP
INSPECTION ).
2. Check for a broken
drive belt (see DRIVE
BELT
INSPECTION ).
3. Check the drive belt
auto-tensioner (see
DRIVE BELT AUTO-
TENSIONER
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2007 Honda Accord
INSPECTION ).
4. Check the thermostat
(see THERMOSTAT
TEST ).
5. Check for the coolant
leakage (from gaskets,
hoses, O-rings, etc.).
6. Check for dirt, leaves,
or insects on radiator
and condenser.
8. Check for plugged or
Engine overheats deteriorated radiator
hoses.
9. Check the radiator cap
(see RADIATOR CAP
TEST ).
10. Inspect the fan motors
or fan relays.
11. Check for plugged
heater core or hose(s).
13. Check for deteriorated
coolant.
14. Check for a damaged
cylinder head gasket.
The radiator fan Radiator fan circuit
Cleanliness and tightness of all
does not run at troubleshooting (see 2005-
connectors
all 2006 Models ).
Both the radiator
fan and the A/C Remove the radiator fan
condenser fan relay, and test.
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2007 Honda Accord
run with the If the relay is faulty,

ignition switch replace it.
ON (II), the A/C If the relay is OK, repair
off, and the a short in the wire Cleanliness and tightness of all
engine coolant between radiator fan connectors
temperature relay 4P socket terminal
below 199F (93 No. 4 and ECM/PCM
C) connector terminal E12.
The A/C HVAC DTCs (see
A/C condenser fan circuit
condenser fan GENERAL
troubleshooting (see A/C
does not run at TROUBLESHOOTING
CONDENSER FAN
all (but the INFORMATION )
CIRCUIT
radiator fan runs Cleanliness and tightness
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
with the A/C on) of all connectors
Both the radiator
Radiator and A/C condenser
fan and the A/C HVAC DTCs (see
fan common circuit
condenser fan do GENERAL
not run with the TROUBLESHOOTING
RADIATOR AND A/C
A/C on (but the INFORMATION )
CONDENSER FAN
A/C compressor Cleanliness and tightness
COMMON CIRCUIT
runs with the A/C of all connectors
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
on)
The A/C
compressor
HVAC DTCs (see
clutch does not A/C compressor clutch
GENERAL
engage (but both circuit troubleshooting (see
TROUBLESHOOTING
the radiator fan A/C COMPRESSOR
INFORMATION )
and the A/C CLUTCH CIRCUIT
Cleanliness and tightness
condenser fan TROUBLESHOOTING ).
run with the A/C of all connectors
on)
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 2: Identifying Fan Controls Circuit Diagram

RADIATOR FAN CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
'03-04 MODELS
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NOTE: Before beginning this troubleshooting procedure, refer to

SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX.
Are the fuses OK?
YES - Reinstall the fuse, then got to step 2.

2. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it
(see UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6) ).
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 3.
body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord


YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.
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2007 Honda Accord
4. Connect radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper
wire.
Fig. 4: Connecting Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket Terminal No. 1 And No.
2 With Jumper Wire
Does the radiator fan run?
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 6.
5. Disconnect the jumper, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage
between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Fig. 5: Checking For Voltage Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket

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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box
and under-dash fuse/relay box.
6. Disconnect the radiator fan motor 2P connector.
7. Check for continuity between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and
radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
Fig. 6: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket And

Radiator Fan Motor 2P Connector
YES - Go to step 8.
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2007 Honda Accord

and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
8. Check for continuity between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1
and body ground.
Fig. 7: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Motor 2P Connector

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Replace the radiator fan motor (see RADIATOR AND FAN
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Repair an open in the wire between radiator fan motor 2P connector
terminal No. 1 and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor
ground at G301.
9. Reinstall the radiator fan relay.
10. Disconnect the radiator fan switch 2P connector.
11. Connect radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and No. 2 with a
jumper wire.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 8: Connecting Radiator Fan Switch 2P Connector Terminal No. 1

And No. 2 With Jumper Wire

YES - Replace the radiator fan switch (see Radiator Fan Switch
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Replacement ).
NO - Go to step 12.
12. Remove the jumper wire, and measure the voltage between radiator fan switch
2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
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Fig. 9: Measuring Voltage Between Radiator Fan Switch 2P Connector

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2007 Honda Accord

YES - Repair an open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P
connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a
poor ground at G301.
NO - Repair open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector
terminal No. 2 and the under-hood fuse/relay box.
'05-07 MODELS

Are the fuses OK?
YES - Reinstall the fuse, then go to step 2.

(see UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6 ).
Is the relay OK?

YES - Reinstall the fuse, then go to step 3.
body ground.
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YES - Go to step 4.
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2007 Honda Accord
4. Connect radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper
wire.
Fig. 11: Connecting Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket Terminal No. 1 And
No. 2 With Jumper Wire
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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 6.
5. Disconnect the jumper, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage
between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Fig. 12: Checking Voltage Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket

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YES - Go to step 9.
and under-dash fuse/relay box.
6. Disconnect the radiator fan motor 2P connector.
7. Check for continuity between radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and
radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
Fig. 13: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket And
Radiator Fan Motor 2P Connector
YES - Go to step 8.
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2007 Honda Accord

and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
8. Check for continuity between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1
and body ground.
Fig. 14: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Motor 2P Connector

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YES - Replace the radiator fan motor (see RADIATOR AND FAN
REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Repair an open in the wire between radiator fan motor 2P connector
ground at G301.
(see step 2 on HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC
SYSTEM) ). Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the
HDS, then turn the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the engine control

module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) from
damage.

ground.
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E12 And Body Ground
YES - Repair a short in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box
and the ECM/PCM.
and the ECM/PCM.
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RADIATOR FAN SWITCH CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING (OPEN)

'03-04 MODELS

1. Disconnect the radiator fan switch 2P connector.

3. Measure voltage between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and
body ground.
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Fig. 16: Measuring Voltage Between Radiator Fan Switch 2P Connector

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector
terminal No. 2 and under-hood fuse/relay box.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between radiator fan
switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
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Fig. 17: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Switch 2P Connector

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YES - Replace the radiator fan switch (see Radiator Fan Switch
Replacement ).
NO - Repair an open in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector
ground at G301.
RADIATOR FAN SWITCH CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING (SHORT)
'03-'04 MODELS

(see UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6 ).
Is the relay OK?

YES - Go to step 2.
2. Remove the radiator fan switch, and test it (see Radiator Fan Switch
Replacement ).
Is the radiator fan switch OK?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Replace the radiator fan switch (see Radiator Fan Switch
Replacement ).
3. Disconnect the under-hood fuse relay box 20P connector.
4. Check for continuity between radiator fan switch 2P connector terminal No. 2
and body ground.
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Fig. 18: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Switch 2P Connector

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2007 Honda Accord
YES - Repair a short in the wire between radiator fan switch 2P connector
terminal No. 2 and under-hood fuse/relay box.
RADIATOR FAN SWITCH TEST
'03-04 MODELS
NOTE: Bleed air from the cooling system after installing the
radiator fan switch (see COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
1. Remove the radiator fan switch from the radiator (see RADIATOR AND FAN
REPLACEMENT ).
2. Suspend the radiator fan switch (A) in a container of water as shown below.
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Fig. 19: Suspending Radiator Fan Switch In Container Of Water

3. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Do not let the
thermometer (B) touch the bottom of the hot container.
4. Measure the continuity between terminal No. 1 and terminal No. 2 according to
table below. .
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Fig. 20: Terminal Continuity Specification Table

RADIATOR FAN SWITCH REPLACEMENT
'03-04 MODELS
1. Drain the engine coolant (see COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).

3. Disconnect the radiator fan switch connector (A), then remove the radiator fan
switch (B).
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Fig. 21: Disconnecting Radiator Fan Switch Connector And Radiator Fan
Switch
4. Install the radiator fan switch with a new O-ring (C).

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Fenderwell - Accord
Fenderwell - Accord
FRONT INNER FENDER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the front inner fender (A).

-1 On the back of the wheel arch, remove the screws (B). If equipped,
remove the front splash guard (C).
-2 From under the front bumper (D), remove the bolts (E) securing the
front bumper, splash shield (F), and front inner fender, and remove the
clip (G) securing the front bumper and front inner fender.
-3 From the wheel arch, remove the clips (H, I) securing the front inner
fender (and splash shield) to the body.
-4 Release the hook (J) of the splash shield, then remove the front inner
fender.
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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 11:04:13
Fig. 1: Removing Front Inner Fender

2. Install the inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and check the clips for
damage or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace it with new one.
SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the splash shield (A).

-1 From both wheel arches, remove the bolts (B) and clips (C) securing the
front inner fender (D) and splash shield to the body.
-2 From under the front bumper (E), remove the clips (F).
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-3 Pull the splash shield out.
Fig. 2: Removing Splash Shield

2. Install the splash shield in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clip is
damaged or stress-whitened, and replace it with new one.
FRONT FENDER FAIRING REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the front inner fender as necessary (see FRONT INNER FENDER
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REPLACEMENT ).
2. Open the front door. Remove the upper clip (A), and from inside the door,
remove the lower clip (A) securing the front fender fairing (B) and front fender
(C).
Fig. 3: Removing Upper & Lower Clips

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3. From the wheel arch, remove the clip (A), and then release the clip (B).
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Fig. 4: Removing Clip From Wheel Arch

4. Remove the front fender fairing (A).
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Fig. 5: Removing Front Fender Fairing

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5. Install the fender fairing in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
it with new one.
Before installing the clips in the door opening area, install the front fender
fairing (A) to the front fender (B) properly as shown below.
Fig. 6: Installing Fender Fairing

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FUEL PIPE PROTECTOR REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the clips, then remove the fuel pipe protector (A). Take care not to
scratch the body.
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Fig. 7: Removing Fuel Pipe Protector

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2. Install the protector in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clip is
REAR INNER FENDER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the screws, then remove rear inner fender (A) from the rear bumper
(B) and body.
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Fig. 8: Removing Rear Inner Fender From Rear Bumper And Body
2. Install the inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clip is
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REAR AIR OUTLET REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the rear bumper, 2-door (see 2-DOOR ) or 4-door (see 4-DOOR ).
2. Detach the hooks (A), then remove the rear air outlet (B). Take care not to
scratch the body.
Fig. 9: Removing Rear Air Outlet (Left)

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Fig. 10: Removing Rear Air Outlet (Right - 2-Door)

3. Install the air outlet by pushing on the hook portions until the hooks snap into
place.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Frame - Accord
Frame - Accord
MIDDLE CROSS-MEMBER GUSSET REPLACEMENT

2-DOOR
1. Remove the side trim panel (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION -

REAR SIDE AREA ).
2. Pull back the rear part of the carpet, as necessary.
3. Detach the floor wire harness clip (A), and remove seat cushion clip (B).
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Fig. 1: Detaching Floor Wire Harness Clip

4. Remove the bolts (C, D) and nut (E), then remove the middle cross-member
gusset (F).
5. Install the gusset in the reverse order of removal. When installing the mounting
bolts for the middle cross-member gusset (A), torque the mounting hardware in
the sequence shown below. If the mounting bolts are not torqued in this
sequence, damage to the quarter panel will occur.
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Fig. 2: Installing Middle Cross-Member Gusset Bolts

FRAME STIFFENER REPLACEMENT
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Fig. 3: Identifying Frame Stiffener

SUBFRAME REPLACEMENT
FRONT SUBFRAME TORQUE
After removing the subframe mounting bolts, front suspension subframe middle
mounting rubber mounting bolts, front suspension subframe rear bracket mounting
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bolts, and front suspension subframe rear damper front mounting bolt, be sure to
replace them with new ones.
Fig. 4: Tightening Front Subframe

FRONT SUBFRAME ALIGNMENT
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NOTE: Before removing the subframe, make an alignment

mark for the front suspension subframe rear bracket as
shown below.
When installing, align both installation reference holes
in the subframe with both reference holes in the body
using a screwdriver or tapered punch as a guide.
After mounting the subframe and brackets loosely,
align the reference marks with the edge of the rear
brackets then tighten all bolts.
Fig. 5: Aligning Front Subframe

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REAR SUBFRAME TORQUE
After removing the subframe mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new
ones.
Fig. 6: Tightening Rear Subframe

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FRAME REPAIR CHART

2-DOOR TOP VIEW
Fig. 7: Frame Repair Chart (2-Door Top View - 1 Of 2)

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4-DOOR TOP VIEW

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SIDE VIEW
Fig. 11: Frame Repair Chart (Side View - 1 Of 2)

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Fig. 12: Frame Repair Chart (Side View - 2 Of 2)

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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 SUSPENSION Front Suspension - Accord
2003-07 SUSPENSION
Front Suspension - Accord
KNUCKLE/HUB/WHEEL BEARING REPLACEMENT
Fig. 1: Exploded View Of Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing


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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 9:35:29
2007 Honda Accord
Hub dis/assembly tool, 42 mm 07GAF-SD40100
Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
Driver 07749-0010000
Support base 07965-SD90100
KNUCKLE/HUB REPLACEMENT
2. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheel.
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Fig. 2: Removing Wheel Nuts And Front Wheel

3. Remove the brake hose mounting bracket (A).
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Fig. 3: Removing Brake Hose Mounting Bracket

4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper
assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or
brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force.
5. Remove the wheel sensor (A) from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the wheel
sensor connector.
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Fig. 4: Removing Wheel Sensor From Knuckle

6. Raise the stake (A), and remove the spindle nut (B).
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Fig. 5: Removing Spindle Nut

7. Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws (A).
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Fig. 6: Removing Brake Disc Retaining Screws

8. Remove the brake disc (B) from the hub.
NOTE: If the brake disc has dung to the hub. Screw two 8x1.25
mm bolts (C) into the disc to push it away from the hub.
Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent the brake
disc from binding.
9. Check the front hub for damage and cracks.

10. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, and loosen the nut
(B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new cotter pin after

tightening the nut, and bend its end as shown below.
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Fig. 7: Removing Cotter Pin From Tie-Rod End Ball Joint

11. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint
remover (see BALL JOINT REMOVAL ).
12. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint, and loosen the nut
(B).
NOTE: To avoid damaging the ball joint, install the ball join
thread protector on the threads of the ball joint.
installing the ball joint remover.
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Do not force or hammer on the lower arm, or pry

between the lower arm and the knuckle. You could
damage the ball joint.
Insert the new cotter pin in to the ball joint pin hole
from the front to the rear of the vehicle, and bend its
end as shown below.
Fig. 8: Removing Cotter Pin From Lower Arm Ball Joint

13. Disconnect the lower arm ball joint from the lower arm using the ball joint
thread protector and ball joint remover (see BALL JOINT REMOVAL ).
14. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the upper arm ball joint, and loosen the nut
(B).
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NOTE: During installation, insert the new cotter pin into the
ball joint pin from the front to the rear of the vehicle,
and bend its end as shown below.
Fig. 9: Removing Cotter Pin From Upper Arm Ball Joint

15. Disconnect the upper arm ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint
16. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (A) from the knuckle (B) by tapping the
driveshaft end (C) with a plastic hammer while drawing the hub outward, then
remove the knuckle.
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NOTE: Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The inner

driveshaft joint may come apart.
During installation, apply grease to the mating
surface of the wheel bearing and driveshaft
outboard joint (seeDRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION ).
Fig. 10: Removing Driveshaft Outboard Joint From Knuckle

17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the knuckle.
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Tighten all mounting hardware to the specified torque values.

Before connecting the lower arm ball joint to the lower arm, degrease the
threaded section and tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the lower arm
connecting hole, and the threaded section and mating surface of the castle
nut.
First install all the components and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then
raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully
tightening to the specified torque values. Do not place the jack against the
ball joint pin of the knuckle.
Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only
far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the
castle nut by loosening it.
Install a new cotter pin on the castle nut after torquing.
Use a new spindle nut on reassembly.
Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the
seating surface of the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle
nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub
and the inside of the brake disc.
Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and
the inside of the wheel.
Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary (see WHEEL
ALIGNMENT ).
WHEEL BEARING (MAGNETIC ENCODER) REPLACEMENT
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the special tool and a
hydraulic press. Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the hydraulic
press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard. Hold onto
the hub to keep it from falling when pressed clear.
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Fig. 11: Separating Hub From Knuckle Using Special Tool And Hydraulic
Press
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the special tool,
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a press.
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Fig. 12: Pressing Wheel Bearing Inner Race Off Of Hub

3. Remove the snap ring (A) and the splash guard (B) from the knuckle (C).
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Fig. 13: Removing Snap Ring And Splash Guard

4. Check the front knuckle ring (A) for damage or deformation, and replace it if
necessary.
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Fig. 14: Checking Front Knuckle Ring

5. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the
driver and a press.
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Fig. 15: Pressing Wheel Bearing Out Of Knuckle Using Special Tools And
Press
6. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before
reassembly.
7. Press a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a
steel plate (D), the attachment, the support base, and a press.
NOTE: Install the wheel bearing with the wheel sensor

magnetic encoder (E) (brown color), toward the
inside of the knuckle.
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Remove any oil, grease, dust, metal debris, and

other foreign material from the encoder surface.
Keep any magnetic tools away from the encoder
surface.
Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when
you insert the wheel bearing.
Fig. 16: Pressing Wheel Bearing Into Knuckle

8. Install the new front knuckle ring (A) on the inside of the knuckle by aligning
the cutout portion (B) on the ring with the wheel sensor hole (C) in the
knuckle. Be careful not to damage or deform the ring when installing it.
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Fig. 17: Installing Front Knuckle Ring

9. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
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Fig. 18: Installing Snap Ring

10. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque
value.
11. Install the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver
support base, and a hydraulic press. Be careful not to distort the splash guard
(C).
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Fig. 19: Pressing Wheel Bearing Onto Hub Using Special Tools
BALL JOINT BOOT REPLACEMENT
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Ball joint boot clip guide 07GAG-SD40700
1. Remove the knuckle (see Knuckle/Hub Replacement).

2.
3. Pack the interior and lip (A) of a new boot with grease. Keep the grease off of
the boot-to-knuckle mating surface (B).
Fig. 20: Packing Interior And Lip Of New Boot With Grease
4. Wipe the grease off the tapered portion of the pin (C), and pack fresh grease
into the base (D). Do not let dirt, or other foreign materials get into the boot.
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5. Install the boot on the ball joint, then squeeze it gently to force out any air.
6. Adjust the special tool with the adjusting bolt (A) until its base is just above the
groove around the bottom of the boot. Then slide the clip (B) over the tool and
into position on the boot.
Fig. 21: Adjusting Special Tool With Adjusting Bolt

7. After installing a boot, wipe any grease off the exposed portion of the ball joint
pin.
8. Install the knuckle (see Knuckle/Hub Replacement).
UPPER ARM REPLACEMENT
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1. Remove the front damper (see REMOVAL ).

2. Remove the wheel sensor bracket (A) from the upper arm (B).
Fig. 22: Removing Wheel Sensor Bracket From Upper Arm

3. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the upper arm ball joint, and loosen the nut
(B).
NOTE: During installation, insert the new cotter pin into the
ball joint pin hole from the front to the rear of vehicle,
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and bend its end as shown below.
Fig. 23: Removing Cotter Pin From Upper Arm Ball Joint
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolts (A), and remove the upper arm (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new upper arm mounting

bolts.
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Fig. 24: Removing Upper Arm Mounting Bolts

6. Install the upper arm by inserting a rod (A) of appropriate size (O.D. 6 mm/L:
300 mm) into the positioning holes (B), and place the upper arm (C) on the rod
to position it before tightening the upper arm mounting bolts.
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Fig. 25: Installing Upper Arm By Inserting Rod Into Positioning Holes
7. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Before connecting the ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded
section and tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the knuckle connecting
hole, the threaded section, and the mating surface of the castle nut.
Tighten all mounting hardware to specified torque values.
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Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface on the brake disc and
Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary (see WHEEL
ALIGNMENT ).
LOWER ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Remove the damper fork (A) from the damper (B) and lower arm (C).
NOTE: During installation, insert the damper fork into the

damper lower end so the aligning tab (D) is aligned with
the slot (E) in the damper fork. Replace the damper fork
mounting nut (F) and bolt (G) with a new one.
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Fig. 26: Removing Damper Fork From Damper And Lower Arm
4. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex wrench
(C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm (E).
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Fig. 27: Removing Flange Nut

5. Remove the cotter pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint castle nut (B), and
remove the nut.
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joint thread protector on the threads of the ball
joint.
Do not force or hammer on the lower arm, or pry
between the lower arm and knuckle. You could
damage the ball joint.
Insert the new cotter pin into the ball joint pin hole
from the front to the rear of vehicle, and bend its
end as shown below.
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Fig. 28: Removing Cotter Pin From Lower Arm Ball Joint Castle Nut
6. Disconnect the lower arm ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint thread
protector and the ball joint remover (see BALL JOINT REMOVAL ).
7. Remove the flange bolts, and remove the lower arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolts.
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Fig. 29: Removing Flange Bolts And Lower Arm

8. Install the lower arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Before connecting the lower arm ball joint to the lower arm, degrease the
threaded section and tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the lower arm
connecting hole, and the threaded section and mating surface of the castle
nut.
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Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface of the brake disc and
Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary (see WHEEL
ALIGNMENT ).
STABILIZER LINK REPLACEMENT
3. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) while holding the
respective joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), and remove the stabilizer link
(E).
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Fig. 30: Removing Self-Locking Nut And Flange Nut Holding Joint Pin
With Hex Wrench
4. Install the stabilizer link (A) on the stabilizer bar (B) and lower arm (C) with
the joint pins set at the center of their range of the movement.
NOTE: The left stabilizer link has a yellow paint mark (D), while
the right stabilizer link has a white paint mark.
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Fig. 31: Installing Stabilizer Link On Stabilizer Bar

5. Install a new self-locking nut and flange nut, and lightly tighten them.
NOTE: Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.

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6. Place the floor jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it
with the vehicle's weight.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the ball joint pin of the
knuckle.
7. Tighten the new self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) to the specified torque
values while holding the respective joint pins (C) with a hex wrench (D).
Fig. 32: Tightening New Self-Locking Nut And Flange Nut

8. Reinstall all removed parts and test-drive the vehicle.
9. After 5 minutes of driving, tighten the self-locking nut again to the specified
torque value.
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STABILIZER BAR REPLACEMENT
3. Disconnect the stabilizer links from the stabilizer bar on the right and left (see
STABILIZER LINK REPLACEMENT ).
4. Remove the front suspension subframe (A) from the body (see SUBFRAME
REPLACEMENT ).
Fig. 33: Removing Front Suspension Subframe From Body

5. Remove the flange bolts (B) and bushing holders (C), then remove the
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bushings (D) and the stabilizer bar (E).

6. Install the stabilizer bar in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Note the right and left direction of the stabilizer bar.
Align the ends of the paint marks (A) on the stabilizer bar with each end
of the bushings (B).
Note the (front to rear) direction of the bushing holders.
Refer to STABILIZER LINK REPLACEMENT to connect the

stabilizer bar to the links .
Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces on the brake disc
and the inside of the wheel.
ALIGNMENT ).
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Fig. 34: Aligning Ends Of Paint Marks On Stabilizer Bar

DAMPER/SPRING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
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REMOVAL
2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Remove the damper fork (A) from the damper (B) and lower arm (C).
Fig. 35: Removing Damper Fork From Damper And Lower Arm
4. Remove the two 8 mm flange nuts (A) and three 10 mm flange nuts (B) from
the top of the damper, and remove the damper assembly (C).
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Fig. 36: Removing Flange Nuts From Top Of Damper

INSTALLATION
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1. Position the damper assembly (A) in the body with the aligning tab (B) facing
inside, then loosely install the flange nuts.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the body.
Fig. 37: Positioning Damper Assembly Aligning Tab Facing Inside

the front damper in the damper fork so the aligning tab (B) is aligned with the
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slot (C) in the damper fork.
Fig. 38: Installing Damper Fork Over Driveshaft And Onto Lower Arm
3. Loosely install the damper pinch bolt (D) into the damper fork.
4. Install the new flange bolt (E) to the damper fork and lower arm, and lightly
tighten the new damper fork mounting nut (F).
5. Place the floor jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it
with the vehicle's weight.
6. Tighten the flange nuts on the top of the damper to the specified torque values.
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7. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque value.

8. Tighten the flange nut on the damper fork to the specified torque value.
9. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then
install the front wheel.
10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary (see WHEEL
ALIGNMENT ).
DAMPER/SPRING DIASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY
EXPLODED VIEW
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Fig. 39: Exploded View Of Damper/Spring

NOTE: When compressing the damper spring, use a commercially

available strut spring compressor (Branick MST-580A or
Model 7200, or equivalent). According to the manufacturer's
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instructions.
DISASSEMBLY

available strut spring compressor (branick MST-580A or
Model 7200, or equivalent). According to the maufacturer's
instructions.
1. Compress the damper spring, then remove the self-locking nut (A) while
holding the damper shaft with a hex wrench (B). Do not compress the spring
more than necessary to remove the nut.
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Fig. 40: Removing Self-Locking Nut Holding Damper Shaft

2. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the
damper as shown in the Exploded View.
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INSPECTION
1. Reassemble all the parts, except for the spring mounting cushion and spring.
2. Compress the damper assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation
through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should
extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not,
the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced.
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Fig. 41: Compressing Damper Assembly

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3. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, and binding during these tests.
REASSEMBLY
NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed.
1. Assemble the damper disassembled parts except for the washer and self-
locking nut.
2. Install the damper assembly on commercially available strut spring compressor
(A), and compress the spring lightly.
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Fig. 42: Installing Damper Assembly On Commercially Available Strut

Spring Compressor
3. Align the bottom of the spring and the stepped part (B) of the lower spring
seat.
4. Position the damper mounting base (A) so the stud bolt (B) in it is aligned with
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the aligning tab (C) in the damper unit.
Fig. 43: Positioning Damper Mounting Base

5. Compress the damper spring. Do not compress the spring excessively.

6. Install the washer (A) and a new 10 mm self-locking nut (B). Hold the damper
shaft with a hex wench (C), and tighten the 10 mm self-locking nut to the
specified torque value.
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Fig. 44: Installing Washer And Self-Locking Nut

7. Remove the damper assembly from the strut spring compressor.
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2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Fuel & Emissions Systems - Accord (V6)
Fuel & Emissions Systems - Accord (V6)
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord

INTERMITTENT FAILURES
The term "intermittent failure" means a system may have had a failure, but it checks
OK now. If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the dash does not come on,
check for poor connections or loose pins at all connectors related to the circuit that
you are troubleshooting. If the MIL was on but then went out, the original problem
may have been intermittent.
OPENS AND SHORTS
"Open" and "Short" are common electrical terms. An open is a break in a wire or at
a connection. A short is an accidental connection of a wire to ground or to another
wire. In simple electronics, this usually means something won't work at all. With
complex electronics (such as ECMs and PCMs) this can sometimes mean
something works, but not the way it's supposed to.
HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)
If the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) has come on
1. Start the engine, and check the MIL (A).
NOTE: If the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and the engine is

not started, the MIL stays on for 15-20 seconds (see
HOW TO SET READINESS CODES ).
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Fig. 2: Identifying MIL

2. If the MIL stays on, connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
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4. Check the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and note it. Also check the freeze
data and/or on board snapshot data, and download any data found. Then refer
to the indicated DTC Troubleshooting Index , and begin the appropriate
troubleshooting procedure.
NOTE: Freeze data indicates the engine conditions when

the first malfunction, misfire, or fuel trim
malfunction was detected.
The HDS can read the DTC, freeze data, current
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data, and other engine control module

(ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) data.
For specific operations, refer to the user's manual
that came with the HDS.
5. If no DTCs are found, go to MIL troubleshooting (see MIL CIRCUIT

TROUBLESHOOTING ).
If the MIL did not stay on
If the MIL did not stay on but there is a driveability problem, do the symptom
troubleshooting.
If you can't duplicate the DTC
Some of the troubleshooting requires you to reset the ECM/PCM and try to
duplicate the DTC. If the problem is intermittent and you can't duplicate the code,
do not continue through the procedure. To do so will only result in confusion and
possibly, a needlessly replaced ECM/PCM.
HDS CLEAR COMMAND
The ECM/PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no
electrical power such as when the battery negative terminal or No. 8 FI ECU
(ECM/PCM) (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data based on failed parts should
be cleared by using the "CLEAR COMMAND" of the HDS, if parts are replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC
clear, ECM/PCM reset, and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all
stored DTC codes, freeze data, readiness codes, and the onboard snapshot. This
must be done with the HDS after reproducing the DTC during troubleshooting. The
ECM/PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, readiness
codes, on-board snapshot, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP
pattern. If the CKP pattern data in the ECM/PCM was cleared, you must do the
CKP pattern learn procedure. The CKP pattern clear command erases only CKP
pattern data. This command is for repair of a misfire or the CKP sensor.
SCAN TOOL CLEAR COMMAND
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If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only
one setting for clearing the ECM/PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time
(CKP pattern learn, idle learn, readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and
DTCs). After you clear all commands, you then need to do these procedures, in this
order: ECM/PCM idle learn procedure (see ECM/PCM IDLE LEARN
PROCEDURE ); CKP pattern learn procedure; Test-drive to set readiness codes to
complete (see HOW TO SET READINESS CODES).
DTC CLEAR
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait for 30 seconds.
ECM/PCM RESET
This command clears stored specific data from each vehicle such as DTCs, freeze
data, on-board snapshot, and readiness codes. It does not clear CKP pattern data.
1. Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped.
PROCEDURE ).
CKP PATTERN CLEAR/CKP PATTERN LEARN
Clear/Learn Procedure (With the HDS)
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the
driver's side of the dashboard.
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Fig. 4: Identifying Data Link Plug

2. Turn the ignition switch ON

3. Make sire the HDS communicated with the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't, go to the
DLC circuit troubleshooting.
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS.
5. Select CRANK PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen
prompts.
HOW TO END A TROUBLESHOOTING SESSION (REQUIRED AFTER ANY
TROUBLESHOOTING)

PROCEDURE ).
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NOTE: The ECM/PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you

replace the ECM/PCM, it will have a different immobilizer
code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the
immobilizer code with the HDS.
HOW TO REMOVE THE ECM/PCM CONNECTORS FOR TESTING
If DTC troubleshooting requires voltage or resistance checks at the ECM/PCM

connectors, remove the ECM/PCM connectors and test it:

3. Remove the center lower cover (A).
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Fig. 5: Removing Center Lower Cover

4. Remove the duct (B).
5. Disconnect ECM/PCM connectors (C).
6. Open the SCS line with the HDS.
HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT CIRCUITS AT THE ECM/PCM
Digital multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital

multimeter
Backprobe set 07SAZ-001000A (2)
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1. Connect the backprobe adapters (A) to the stacking patch cords (B), and
connect the cords to a digital multimeter.
Fig. 6: Connecting Backprobe Adapters To Stacking Patch Cords

2. Using the wire insulation as a guide for the contoured tip of the backprobe
adapter, gently slide the tip into the connector from the wire side until it
touches the end of the wire terminal.
3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed
(A), disconnect the connector, and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal
side. Do not force the probe into the connector.
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NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can

cause poor or intermittent electrical connections.
Fig. 7: Disconnecting Connector And Probe Terminals

ECM/PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING
Honda interface module (HIM) EQS05A35570

Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good ECM/PCM in a
troubleshooting procedure. Update the ECM/PCM only if the ECM/PCM does not
have the latest software loaded.
NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the
ECM/PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF before
completion, the ECM/PCM can be damaged.
HOW TO UPDATE THE ECM/PCM
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NOTE: To ensure the latest program is installed, do an

ECM/PCM update whenever the ECM/PCM is
substituted or replaced.
You can not update an ECM/PCM with the program it
already has. It will only accept a new program.
Before you update the ECM/PCM, make sure the
vehicle's battery is fully charged.
To prevent ECM/PCM damage, do not operate anything
electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power windows,
moonroof, door locks, etc.) during the update.
If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module
(HIM) because the HIM's red (# 3) light came on or was
flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in
the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from
the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent
ECM/PCM damage.
High temperature in the engine compartment might
cause the ECM/PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this
procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine.

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3. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
4. Do the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS TEST.
5. If the HDS does not have the update function, disconnect the HDS from the
vehicle and connect the Honda interface module (HIM).
6. If the software in the ECM/PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS or the HIM
from the DLC, and go back to the procedure that you were doing. If the
software in the ECM/PCM is not the latest, do the ECM/PCM update
procedure as described on the HIM label or in the ECM/PCM update system.
NOTE: If the ECM/PCM update system requires you to cool the

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ECM/PCM, follow what is shown in the screen.

PROCEDURE ).
8. Do the CKP pattern clear/pattern learn procedure.
HOW TO SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM

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2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't, skip steps
3 to 5 and clean the throttle body after this procedure.
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
5. Do the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS TEST.
8. Remove the center lower covers (A).
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Fig. 10: Removing Center Lower Covers

11. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the ECM/PCM (E).
12. Install a known-good ECM/PCM in the reverse order of removal.
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13. Open the SCS with the HDS.

NOTE: 2005-2007 models: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or

Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not been
programmed into the ECM/PCM; ignore it, and continue
this procedure.
15. Input the VIN to the ECM/PCM with the HDS.

16. Rewrite the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure in
the HDS; it allows you to start the engine.
PROCEDURE ).
19. Do the CKP pattern clear/pattern learn procedure with the HDS.
OBD STATUS
The OBD status shows the current system status of each DTC and all of the
parameters. This function is used to see if the technician's repair was successfully
finished. The results of diagnostic tests for the DTC are displayed as:
PASSED: On board diagnosis is successfully finished.

FAILED: On board diagnosis has finished but failed.
EXECUTING: The vehicle is in enable criteria conditions for the DTC and the
on board diagnosis is running.
NOT COMPLETED: The on board diagnosis was running but is out of the
enable conditions for the DTC.
OUT OF CONDITION: The vehicle has stayed out of the enable conditions for
the DTC.
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Fig. 11: DTC Troubleshooting Chart (1 Of 5)


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When the vehicle has one of these symptoms, check for a diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) with the HDS. If there is no DTC, do the diagnostic procedure for the
symptom, in the sequence listed, until you find the cause.
SYMPTOM CHART
1. Test the battery, refer to
BATTERY (EXCEPT
HYBRID & V6) .
2. Test the starter solenoid Low compression
(see STARTER No ignition spark
Engine will not start SOLENOID TEST ).
Intake air leaks
(MIL works OK, no 3. Check the fuel pressure
Locked up engine
DTCs set) (see FUEL PRESSURE
Broken timing belt
TEST ).
Contaminated fuel
4. Troubleshoot the fuel pump
circuit (see FUEL PUMP
CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Engine will not start
(MIL comes on and Troubleshoot the MIL circuit
stays on, or never (see MIL CIRCUIT
comes on at all, no TROUBLESHOOTING ).
DTCs set)
Troubleshoot the immobilizer
(immobilizer
system (see
indicator stays on or
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
flashes)
(immobilizer Troubleshoot the immobilizer
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indicator stays on or system (see

flashes) TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Engine starts but
stalls immediately
(MIL works OK, no Troubleshoot the immobilizer
DTCs set, system (see
immobilizer TROUBLESHOOTING ).
flashes)
BATTERY (EXCEPT
HYBRID & V6) . Low compression
Engine is hard to 2. Check the fuel pressure Intake air leaks
start (MIL works (see FUEL PRESSURE
OK, no DTCs set) TEST ). Contaminated fuel
Weak spark
3. Clean the throttle body (see
THROTTLE BODY
CLEANING ).
Engine starts but
stalls immediately
(MIL works OK, no Troubleshoot the immobilizer
DTCs set, system (see
immobilizer TROUBLESHOOTING ).
flashes)
BATTERY (EXCEPT
HYBRID & V6) . Low compression
Engine is hard to 2. Check the fuel pressure Intake air leaks
start (MIL works (see FUEL PRESSURE
Weak spark
THROTTLE BODY
CLEANING ).
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1. Do the ECM/PCM idle

learn procedure (see
ECM/PCM IDLE
LEARN PROCEDURE ).
Cold fast idle too
low (MIL works OK, 2. Check the idle speed (see
no DTCs set) IDLE SPEED
INSPECTION ).
THROTTLE BODY
CLEANING ).
ECM/PCM IDLE
LEARN PROCEDURE ).
2. Check the idle speed (see
IDLE SPEED
Cold fast idle too INSPECTION ).
high (MIL works 3. Inspect/adjust the throttle
OK, no DTCs set) cable (see THROTTLE
CABLE
ADJUSTMENT ).
4. Do the throttle position
learning check (see
THROTTLE POSITION
LEARNING CHECK ).

ECM/PCM IDLE
LEARN PROCEDURE ).
IDLE SPEED
Idle speed fluctuates INSPECTION ).
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(MIL works OK, no 3. Inspect/adjust the throttle

DTCs set) cable (see THROTTLE
CABLE
ADJUSTMENT ).
4. Do the carbon Intake vacuum leaks
accumulation check (see
CARBON
ACCUMULATION
CHECK ).
1. 2003-2004 models:
Troubleshoot the alternator
FR signal circuit (see
ALTERNATOR FR
SIGNAL CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
After warming up, 2. 2005-2006 models:
idle speed is below Troubleshoot the alternator
specification without FR signal circuit (see
load (MIL works ALTERNATOR FR
OK, no DTCs set) SIGNAL CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
3. Do the carbon
accumulation check (see
CARBON
ACCUMULATION
CHECK ).
1. Inspect/adjust the throttle
cable (see THROTTLE
CABLE
ADJUSTMENT ).
2. 2003-2004 models:
After warming up, ALTERNATOR FR
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idle speed is above SIGNAL CIRCUIT

specification without TROUBLESHOOTING ).
load (MIL works 3. 2005-2006 models:
OK, no DTCs set) Troubleshoot the alternator
ALTERNATOR FR
SIGNAL CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
4. Inspect the APP sensor (see
APP SENSOR
INSPECTION ).
1. Check the fuel pressure
(see FUEL PRESSURE Low compression
Low power (MIL TEST ). Incorrect camshaft
works OK, no DTCs 2. Inspect/adjust the throttle timing
set) cable (see THROTTLE Incorrect engine oil
CABLE level
ADJUSTMENT ).

ECM/PCM IDLE
LEARN PROCEDURE ).
2. Check the fuel pressure
(see FUEL PRESSURE
Engine stalls (MIL Intake air leaks

TEST ).
works OK, no DTCs Faulty harness and
set) 3. Check the idle speed (see
sensor connections
IDLE SPEED
INSPECTION ).
4. Troubleshoot the brake
pedal position switch signal
CIRCUIT (see BRAKE
PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH SIGNAL
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CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
1. Check the fuel vent tube
between the EVAP canister
and the fuel tank.
Difficult to refuel 2. Check the fuel tank vapor
recirculation tube between Malfunctioning gas
(MIL works OK, no
the fuel pipe and the fuel station filling nozzle.
DTCs set)
tank.
3. Replace the fuel tank (see
FUEL TANK
REPLACEMENT ).
Fuel overflows Replace the fuel tank (see
Malfunctioning gas
during refueling (No FUEL TANK
station filling nozzle.
DTC set) REPLACEMENT ).
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
ELECTRONIC CONTROL SYSTEM
The functions of the fuel and emission control systems are managed by the engine
control module (ECM) on vehicles with manual transmissions or the powertrain
control module (PCM) on vehicles with automatic transmissions.
Self-diagnosis
The ECM/PCM detects a failure of a signal from a sensor or from another control
unit and stores a Temporary DTC or a DTC in erasable memory (RAM). Depending
on the failure, a DTC is stored in either the first or the second drive cycle. When a
DTC is stored, the ECM/PCM turns on the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) by
supplying ground to the MIL circuit.
One Drive Cycle Detection Method
When an abnormality occurs in the signal from a sensor or from another control
unit, the ECM/PCM stores a DTC for the failure in the RAM and turns on the MIL
immediately.
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Two Drive Cycle Detection Method

unit in the first drive cycle, the ECM/PCM stores a Temporary DTC for the failure
in RAM. The MIL does not come on at this time. If the failure continues in the
second drive cycle, the ECM/PCM stores a DTC in erasable memory and turns on
the MIL.
Fail-safe Function
unit, the ECM/PCM ignores that signal and assumes, pre-programmed value that
allows the engine to continue running. This causes a DTC to be stored and the MIL
to come on.
MIL Bulb Check and Readiness Code Condition
When the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the ECM/PCM supplies ground to the
MIL circuit for about 15 to 20 seconds to check the bulb condition. If any readiness
codes are not set to complete, the MIL flashes five times. If all readiness codes are
set to complete, the MIL goes off.
Self Shut Down (SSD) Mode
After the ignition switch is turned OFF, the ECM/PCM stays on (up to 15 minutes).
If the ECM/PCM connector is disconnected during this time, the ECM/PCM may
be damaged. To cancel this mode, disconnect the negative cable from the battery or
jump the SCS line with the HDS after the ignition switch is turned OFF.
ECM/PCM ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
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Fig. 16: ECM/PCM Electrical Connections Wiring Diagram (1 Of 5)

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VACUUM HOSE ROUTING
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Fig. 21: Identifying Vacuum Hose Routing

VACUUM DISTRIBUTION
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Fig. 22: Identifying Vacuum Distribution

ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR A (31P)
NOTE: Standard battery voltage is 12 V.
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Fig. 23: Identifying ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (1

Of 2)
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Fig. 24: Identifying ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector A (31P) (2

Of 2)
ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR B (24P)
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Fig. 25: Identifying ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) (1

Of 2)
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Fig. 26: Identifying ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector B (24P) (2

Of 2)
PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR C (22P)
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Fig. 27: Identifying PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector C (22P)

ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR D (17P)
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Fig. 28: Identifying ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector D (17P)

ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR E (31P)
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Fig. 29: Identifying ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (1

Of 2)
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Fig. 30: Identifying ECM/PCM Inputs And Outputs At Connector E (31P) (2

Of 2)
PGM-FI SYSTEM
The programmed fuel injection (PGM-FI) system is a sequential multiport fuel

injection system.
Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Clutch Relay
When the ECM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the
compressor from being energized and enriches the mixture to assure smooth
transition to the A/C mode.
Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed
upstream of the TWC, and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the
duration of fuel injection accordingly.
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Fig. 31: Identifying A/F Sensor

Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
The BARO sensor is inside the ECM/PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a
voltage signal that is used by the ECM/PCM to modify the basic duration of the fuel
injection discharge.
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
The CMP sensor input is used by the ECM/PCM to determines ignition timing at
start up (cranking) and when crank angle is abnormal.
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Fig. 32: Identifying CMP Sensor

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
This CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to
determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as
detecting engine misfire.
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Fig. 33: Identifying CKP Sensor

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor (2005-2007 models: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor 1)
The ECT sensor (2005-2007 models: ECT sensor 1) is a temperature dependent

resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine
coolant temperature increases.
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Fig. 34: Identifying ECT Sensor

Ignition Timing Control
The ECM/PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine
speeds and manifold absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to
engine coolant temperature.
Injector Timing and Duration
The ECM/PCM contains the memory for basic discharge duration at various engine
speeds and manifold pressures. The basic discharge duration, after being read out
from the memory, is further modified by signals sent from various sensors to obtain
the final discharge duration.
By monitoring long term fuel trim, the ECM/PCM detects long term malfunctions
in the fuel system and sets a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
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This sensor detects mainshaft speed.
Fig. 35: Identifying Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor

Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of

the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases.
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Fig. 36: Identifying IAT Sensor

Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
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Fig. 37: Identifying Knock Sensor

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes)
The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics
for the emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone
dead, if the DTCs have been cleared, or if the ECM/PCM has been reset, these
codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these
codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail
the test, or the test cannot be finished.
To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II),
but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes
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off, the readiness codes are complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness
codes are not complete. To set each code, drive the vehicle or run the engine as
described in the procedures (see HOW TO SET READINESS CODES).
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the
ECM/PCM.
Fig. 38: Identifying MAP Sensor

Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor
This sensor detects countershaft speed.
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Fig. 39: Identifying Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor

Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S)
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of
the warm up three way catalytic converter (WU-TWC), and sends signals to the
ECM/PCM. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The
ECM/PCM compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine
catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is on the WU-TWC.
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Fig. 40: Identifying Secondary HO2S

Electronic Throttle Control System
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system.

Refer to Electronic Throttle Control System Diagram .
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the ECM/PCM controls the throttle actuator
to maintain the proper idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the ECM/PCM opens
the throttle valve depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The ECM/PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed
when the cruise control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the
cruise control actuator.
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
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As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the
ECM/PCM.
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Fig. 41: Identifying APP Sensor

Throttle Body
The throttle body is a single-barrel side draft type. The lower portion of the throttle
valve is heated by engine coolant from the cylinder head to prevent icing of the
throttle plate.
Fig. 42: Identifying Throttle Body

IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the
brake pedal is pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging,
the ECM/PCM controls current to the throttle actuator to maintain the correct idle
speed.
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Brake Pedal Position Switch
The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM/PCM when the brake pedal is
pressed.
Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch
The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high.
FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM
Fuel Cutoff Control
During deceleration with the throttle valve closed, current to the injectors is cut off
to improve fuel economy at engine speeds over 850 rpm (M/T: 950 rpm). Fuel
cutoff control also occurs when the engine speed exceeds 6,900 rpm, regardless of
the position of the throttle valve, to protect the engine from over-revving. When the
vehicle is stopped, the ECM/PCM cuts the fuel at engine speeds over 5,000 rpm.
Engine speed of fuel cut is lower on a cold engine.
Fuel Pump Control
When the ignition is turned on, the ECM/PCM grounds PGM-FI main relay 2
(FUEL PUMP) which feeds current to the fuel pump for 2 seconds to pressurize the
fuel system. With the engine running, the ECM/PCM grounds PGM-FI main relay 2
(FUEL PUMP) and feeds current to the fuel pump. When the engine is not running
and the ignition is on, the ECM/PCM cuts ground to PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL
PUMP) which cuts current to the fuel pump.
PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2
PGM-FI main relay 1 (FI MAIN) is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON
(II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power
for PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP). PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch
is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER SYSTEM
Warm Up/Three Way Catalytic Converter (WU-TWC) and Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC)
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The WU-TWC/TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and

oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO ), nitrogen
2
(N ), and water vapor.
2
Fig. 43: Identifying Catalytic Converter System (WU-TWC)

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Fig. 44: Identifying Catalytic Converter System (TWC)

EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM
Refer to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Diagram .

EGR Valve
The EGR valve lowers peak combustion temperatures and reduces oxides of
nitrogen emissions (NOx) by recirculating exhaust gas through the intake manifold
and into the combustion chambers.
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION (PCV) SYSTEM
The PCV valve prevents blow-by gasses from escaping into the atmosphere by
venting them into the intake manifold.
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Fig. 45: Identifying PCV System

EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CONTROL SYSTEM
Refer to the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control Diagram .

EVAP Canister
The EVAP canister temporarily stores fuel vapor from the fuel tank until it can be
purged from the EVAP canister into the engine and burned.
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When the engine coolant temperature is below 140F (60C), the ECM/PCM turns
off the EVAP canister purge valve which cuts vacuum to the EVAP canister.
Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the
ECM/PCM.
Fig. 46: Identifying FTP Sensor

The EVAP canister vent shut valve is on the EVAP canister.
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The EVAP canister vent shut valve controls the venting of the EVAP canister.
Fig. 47: Identifying EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve

FUEL CAP WARNING MESSAGE
The ECM/PCM detects whether the fuel fill cap is loose or missing under certain
conditions and alerts the driver by showing the information in the odometer/ outside
temperature display. If the ECM/PCM detects a small volume leak, the MIL may
come on during the second drive cycle and store a DTC.
First drive cycle
During the first drive cycle after a cold start, the ECM/ PCM alerts the driver to
check the fuel fill cap by showing a "CHECK FUEL CAP" message in the
odometer/outside temperature display (A), and it stores Temporary DTC P0457
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"Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Leak Detected/Fuel Cap Loose or

Missing". Tightening the fuel cap does not make the message go off immediately.
Fig. 48: Identifying Odometer/Outside Temperature Display

To make the message go off (with the HDS)
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap three clicks (2003-2004 models), or until it clicks
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(2005-2007 models).
2. Clear the Temporary DTC with the HDS.
3. Verify there is no leak by doing the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the
INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
To make the message go off (without the HDS)
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap three clicks (2003-2004 models), or until it clicks
(2005-2007 models).
3. Start the engine, and drive at a steady speed over 28 mph (45 km/h), without
moving the accelerator pedal, for about 1 minute. Do step 2 and 3 several
times.
Second drive cycle
During the second drive cycle after a cold start, if the fuel fill cap is still loose or
missing, the ECM/PCM alerts the driver to check the fuel fill cap by showing a
"CHECK FUEL CAP" message in the odometer/outside temperature display as
same as the first drive cycle. Tightening the fuel cap does not make the message go
off immediately.
Third drive cycle

During the third drive cycle after a cold start, if the fuel fill cap is still loose or
missing, the ECM/PCM stores DTC P0457 "Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System
Leak Detected/Fuel Cap Loose or Missing". The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL)
(A) comes on, and the "CHECK FUEL CAP" message goes off.
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ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM DIAGRAM
The electronic throttle control system consists of the throttle actuator, throttle
position (TP) sensor A/B, accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor A/B, throttle
actuator control module, and the ECM/PCM. The throttle is electronically
controlled by this system.
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Fig. 50: Identifying Electronic Throttle Control System Diagram

INTAKE MANIFOLD TUNING (IMT) (INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL (IMRC))
SYSTEM
Engine power is achieved by closing and opening the intake manifold tuning (IMT)
(intake manifold runner control (IMRC)) actuator. When the valve is closed, there
is high torque at low engine speed. When the valve is open, there is high torque at
high engine speed.
The intake manifold tuning (IMT) (intake manifold runner control (IMRC)) valve
actuator has a sensor that detects the IMT (IMRC) valve position and sends it to the
ECM/PCM.
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Fig. 51: Identifying IMT (Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC)) System
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM DIAGRAM
The EGR system reduces oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions by recirculating

exhaust gas through the EGR valve and the intake manifold into the combustion
chambers. The ECM/PCM memory includes the ideal EGR valve position for
varying operating conditions.
The EGR valve position sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends it to
the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM then compares it with the ideal lift in its memory
(based on signals sent from other sensors). If there is any difference between the
two, the ECM/PCM cuts current to the EGR valve.
Fig. 52: Identifying EGR System Diagram

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EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CONTROL DIAGRAM
The EVAP controls minimize the amount of fuel vapor escaping to the atmosphere.
Vapor from the fuel tank is temporarily stored in the EVAP canister until it can be
purged from the canister into the engine and burned.
The EVAP canister is purged by drawing fresh air through it and into a port on
the intake manifold.
The purging vacuum is controlled by the EVAP canister purge valve, which
operates whenever engine coolant temperature is above 140 F (60 C).
During refueling, the fuel tank vapor control valve opens with the pressure in
the fuel tank, and feeds the fuel vapor to the EVAP canister.
Fig. 53: Identifying EVAP Control Diagram

ECM/PCM CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 54: ECM/PCM Circuit Diagram (1 Of 11)

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HOW TO SET READINESS CODES
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) INDICATION (IN RELATION TO READINESS
CODES)
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readiness codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make
sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the
vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished.
codes are not set to complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete,
do the procedure for the appropriate code.
To check the status of a specific DTC system, check the OBD status in the DTC
MENU with the HDS (see OBD STATUS). This screen displays the code, the
current data list of the enable criteria, and the status of the readiness testing.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
NOTE: Do not turn the ignition switch off during the procedure.
All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is
disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the
HDS.
Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go
traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the
readiness code from incomplete to complete.
The readiness code will not switch to complete until all
the enable criteria are met.
If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL
to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to
complete until you correct the fault.
Enable Criteria
ECT at 158F (70C) or higher.

Intake air temperature (IAT) at - 13F ( - 25C) or higher.
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Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more than 3 mph (5 km/h).

Procedure
1. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the
READINESS CODES screen for Catalyst in the DTCs MENU.
3. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of
steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch to
completed.
4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a Temporary DTC
with the HDS. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were
probably not met; repeat the procedure.
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CONTROL SYSTEM MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
NOTE: All readiness codes are cleared when the battery is

HDS.
Enable Criteria
Battery voltage is higher than 10.5 V.

Engine at idle.
ECT sensor between 176F (80C) and 212F (100C).
MAP sensor less than 46.6 kPa (14 in.Hg, 350 mmHg).
Vehicle speed 0 mph (0 km/h).
IAT sensor between 32F (0C) and 212F (100C).
Procedure
1. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC).

3. Select EVAP TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS, then select the
FUNCTION TEST in the EVAP TEST MENU.
If the functions are normal, readiness is complete.
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If the functions are not normal, go to the next step.

4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a Temporary DTC. If
there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met;
repeat the procedure.
AIR FUEL RATIO (A/F) SENSOR MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
HDS.
Enable Criteria
ECT at 158F (70C) or higher.

Procedure

steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5
seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from
incomplete to complete.
3. Check the readiness codes screen for the Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor in the
DTCs MENU with the HDS.
If the screen shows complete, readiness is complete.
If the screen shows not complete, go to the next step.
4. Check for a Temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was
probably not met. Select the DATA LIST Menu. Check the ECT in the ALL
DATA LIST with the HDS. If the ECT is lower than 158F (70C), run the
engine until it is higher than 158F (70C), then repeat the procedure.
AIR FUEL RATIO (A/F) SENSOR HEATER MONITOR READINESS CODE

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HDS.
Procedure
1. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch
from incomplete to complete.
2. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a Temporary DTC. If
there is no DTC, repeat the procedure.
MISFIRE MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously

monitored.
Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over
a rough road.
Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the
throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving
conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria.
FUEL SYSTEM MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is
continuously monitored during closed loop operation.
Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and
A/F sensor monitors are active.
Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met.
Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met.
COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive

component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or
running.
EGR MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
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HDS.
Enable Criteria
ECT at 176 F (80 C) or higher.

Procedure

3. Drive at a steady speed with the A/T in D or M/T in 4th gear, 50-62 mph (80-
100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds.
4. With the A/T in D or M/T in 4th gear, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or
above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds. If the engine
is stopped during this procedure, go to step 2 and do the procedure again.
5. Check the OBD status screen for DTC P0401 in the DTC's MENU with the
HDS.
If it is passed, readiness is complete.
If it is not passed, go to step 3 and retest.
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2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Fuel And Emission System - Accord
Fuel And Emission System - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord

INTERMITTENT FAILURES
The term "intermittent failure" means a system may have had a failure, but it checks
OK now. If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the dash does not come on,
check for poor connections or loose pins at all connectors related to the circuit that
you are troubleshooting. If the MIL was on, but then went out, the original problem
may have been intermittent.
OPENS AND SHORTS
"Open" and "Short" are common electrical terms. An open is a break in a wire or at
a connection. A short is an accidental connection of a wire to ground or to another
wire. In simple electronics, this usually means something won't work at all. With
complex electronics (such as ECMs and PCMs) this can sometimes mean
something works, but not the way it's supposed to.
HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)
If the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) has come on
1. Start the engine, and check the MIL (A).
NOTE: If the ignition switch is turned ON (II), and the engine is

not started, the MIL will stay on for 15-20 seconds (see
HOW TO SET READINESS CODES ).
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2. If the MIL stays on, connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
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4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't, go to the
DLC circuit troubleshooting (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
5. Check the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and note it. Also check the freeze
data/or on-board snapshot data, and download any data found. Then refer to the
indicated DTC's troubleshooting, and begin the appropriate troubleshooting
procedure.
NOTE: Freeze data indicates the engine conditions when

the first malfunction, misfire, or fuel trim
malfunction was detected.
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The HDS can read the DTC, freeze data, on-board

snapshot, current data, and other engine control
module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM)
data.
For specific operations, refer to the user's manual
that came with the HDS.
6. If no DTCs are found, go to MIL troubleshooting (see MIL CIRCUIT

TROUBLESHOOTING ).
If the MIL did not stay on
If the MIL did not stay on but there is a driveability problem, do the symptom
troubleshooting.
If you can't duplicate the DTC
Some of the troubleshooting requires you to reset the ECM/PCM and try to
duplicate the DTC. If the problem is intermittent and you can't duplicate the code,
do not continue through the procedure. To do so will only result in confusion and
possibly, a needlessly replaced ECM/PCM.
HDS CLEAR COMMAND
The ECM/PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no
electrical power such as when the battery negative terminal or No. 8 Fl ECU
(ECM/PCM) (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data based on failed parts should
be cleared by using the "CLEAR COMMAND" of the HDS, if parts are replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC
clear, ECM/PCM reset, and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all
stored DTC codes, freeze data, readiness codes, and on-board snapshot. This must
be done with the HDS after reproducing the DTC during troubleshooting. The
ECM/PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, readiness
codes, on-board snapshot, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP
pattern. If the CKP pattern data in the ECM/PCM was cleared, you must do the
CKP pattern learn procedure. The CKP pattern clear command erases only CKP
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pattern data. This command is for repair of a misfire or the CKP sensor.
SCAN TOOL CLEAR COMMAND
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only
one setting for clearing the ECM/PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time
(CKP pattern learn, idle learn, readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and
DTCs). After you clear all commands, you then need to do these procedures, in this
order: ECM/PCM idle learn procedure (see ECM/PCM IDLE LEARN
PROCEDURE ); CKP pattern learn procedure; Test-drive to set readiness codes to
complete (see HOW TO SET READINESS CODES ).
DTC CLEAR
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Wait 30 seconds.
ECM/PCM RESET
1. Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds.
PROCEDURE ).
CRANK (CKP) PATTERN CLEAR/CRANK (CKP) PATTERN LEARN; CLEAR/LEARN
PROCEDURE (WITH THE HDS)
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Fig. 4: Connecting HDS To Data Link Connector

3. Make sure the HDS communications with the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't, go to
the DLC circuit troubleshooting (see DLC CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS.
5. Select CRANK PATTERN LEARNING with HDS, and follow the screen
prompts.
LEARN PROCEDURE (WITHOUT THE HDS
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in park or
neutral) until the radiator fan comes on.
2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road:Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed)
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from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with A/T in 2 position,
or M/T in 1st gear.
3. Repeat step 2 several times.
HOW TO END A TROUBLESHOOTING SESSION (REQUIRED AFTER ANY
TROUBLESHOOTING)

PROCEDURE ).
NOTE: The ECM/PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you

replace the ECM/PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you
must rewrite the immobilizer code with the HDS.
HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT CIRCUITS AT THE ECM/PCM
Digital multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital

multimeter
Backprobe set 07SAZ-001000A (2)
connect the cords to a digital multimeter.
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3. If you cannot get to the wire side of the connector or the wire side is sealed
(A), disconnect the connector and probe the terminals (B) from the terminal
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side. Do not force the probe into the connector.
NOTE: Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can

cause poor or intermittent electrical connections.
Fig. 6: Disconnecting Connector And Probe Terminals From Terminal

Side
UPDATING THE ECM/PCM
Honda diagnostic system (HDS)

Honda interface module (HIM)
HDS pocket tester
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to update the

ECM/PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
Make sure the HDS/HIM has the latest sofware version.
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Before you update the ECM/PCM, make sure the

vehicle's battery is fully changed.
Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If
there is a problem with update, leave the ignition switch
ON.
To prevent ECM/PCM damage, do not operate anything
electrical (headlights, audio system brakes, A/C, power
windows, door locks, etc.) during the update.
To ensure the latest program is installed, do an
ECM/PCM update whenever the ECM/PCM is
substituted or replaced.
You cannot update an ECM/PCM with the program it
already has. It will only accept a new program.
If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module
(HIM) because the HIM's red (# 3) light came on or was
flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in
the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from
the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent
ECM/PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine.

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Fig. 7: Connecting HDS Or HIM To DLC

DLC circuit troubleshooting (seeDLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
'06-07 models: If you are returning from the DLC circuit troubleshooting, skip
steps 4 and 5, then clean the throttle body after updating the ECM/PCM (see
THROTTLE BODY CLEANING ).
4. '06-07 models: Select the INSPECTION MENU with HDS.
5. '06-07 models: Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP POSITION CHECK,
and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS diagnostic system, then select the update mode, and follow the
screen prompts to update the ECM/PCM.
7. If the software in the ECM/PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from
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the DLC and go back to the procedure that you were doing. If the software in
the ECM/PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If
prompted to choose the PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you
update both.
NOTE: If the ECM/PCM update system requires you to cool the

ECM/PCM, follow the screen prompts. If you run into a
problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status
bar goes over 100%, D or immobilizer indicator flashes,
HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure,
following these steps to minimize the chance of
damaging the ECM/PCM:
Leave the ignition switch in the "ON (II)" position.

Connect a jumper battery (do not connect a battery
charger).
Shut down the HDS.
Disconnect the HDS from the HDS.
Reboot the HDS.
Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update
procedure again.
8. 05-07 models: If the TP POSTION CHECK failed in step 6, clean the throttle
body (see THROTTLE BODY CLEANING ).
PROCEDURE ).
SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM
Honda diagnostic system (HDS)

Honda interface module (HIM)
HDS pocket tester
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NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-

good ECM/PCM during troubleshooting procedures.


DLC circuit troubleshooting (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
'06-07 models: If you are returning from DLC circuit troubleshooting skip
steps 4 to 11, then clean the throttle body after substituting the ECM/PCM (see
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THROTTLE BODY CLEANING ).

4. '06-07 models: Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
5. '06-07 models: Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP POSITION CHECK,
and follow the screen prompts.
8. Remove the center lower covers (A).
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Fig. 9: Removing Center Lower Covers


11. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the ECM/PCM (E).
12. Install the ECM/PCM in the reverse order of removal.
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NOTE: '05-07 models:DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or

Mismatch" may be stored because VIN has not been
programmed into the ECM/PCM; ignore it, and continue
this procedure.
15. '05-07 models: Manually input the VIN to the ECM/PCM with the HDS.
16. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software.
17. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS.
18. Enter the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM replacement procedure in the
HDS; it allows you to start the engine.
20. '06-07 models: if the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle
body (see THROTTLE BODY CLEANING ).
PROCEDURE ).
OBD STATUS
The OBD status shows the current system status of each DTC and all of the
parameters. This function is used to see if the technician's repair was successfully
finished. The results of diagnostic tests for the DTC are displayed as:
PASSED: On board diagnosis is successfully finished.

FAILED: On board diagnosis has finished but failed.
EXECUTING: The vehicle is in enable criteria conditions for the DTC and the
on board diagnosis is running.
NOT COMPLETED: The on board diagnosis was running but is out of the
enable conditions of the DTC.
OUT OF CONDITION: The vehicle has stayed out of the enable conditions of
the DTC.
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Fig. 10: DTC Troubleshooting Index (1 of 4)

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When the vehicle has one of these symptoms, check for a diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) with the HDS. If there is no DTC, do the diagnostic procedure for the
symptom, in the sequence listed, until you find the cause.

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1. Test the battery (see

BATTERY TEST ).
2. Test the starter solenoid
(see STARTER Low compression
SOLENOID TEST ). No ignition spark
3. Check the fuel pressure (see Intake air leaks
(MIL works OK, no
DTCs set) FUEL PRESSURE Locked up engine
TEST ). Broken cam chain
4. Troubleshoot the fuel pump Contaminated fuel
circuit (see FUEL PUMP
CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
(MIL comes on and Troubleshoot the MIL circuit
stays on, or never (see MIL CIRCUIT
comes on at all, no TROUBLESHOOTING ).
DTCs set)
(immobilizer
system (see
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
flashes)
Engine starts but
stalls immediately
system (see
(MIL works OK, no
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
DTCs set)
1. Test the battery (see

BATTERY TEST ) Low compression
Engine is hard to 2. Check the fuel pressure (see Intake air leaks
start (MIL works FUEL PRESSURE
3. '06-07 models: Clean the Weak spark
throttle body (see
THROTTLE BODY
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CLEANING ).
ECM/PCM IDLE LEARN
PROCEDURE ).
Cold fast idle too 2. Check the idle speed (see
low (MIL works IDLE SPEED
OK, no DTCs set) INSPECTION ).
3. '06-07 models: Clean the
throttle body (see
THROTTLE BODY
CLEANING ).
ECM/PCM IDLE LEARN
PROCEDURE ).
IDLE SPEED
INSPECTION ).
Cold fast idle too cable; '03-05 models (see
high (MIL works '03-05 MODELS ) or '06-
OK, no DTCs set) 07 models (see '06-07
MODEL ).
4. '03-05 models: Test the
throttle body (see '03-05
MODELS ).
5. '06-07 models: Do the
throttle position learning
check (see THROTTLE
POSITION SENSOR
SIGNAL INSPECTION ).

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ECM/PCM IDLE LEARN
PROCEDURE ).
IDLE SPEED
INSPECTION ).
Idle speed fluctuates cable; '03-05 models (see
(MIL works OK, no '03-05 MODELS ) or '06- Intake vacuum leaks
DTCs set) 07 models (see '06-07
MODEL ).
4. '03-05 models: Test the
MODELS ).
5. '06-07 models: Do the
carbon accumulation check
(see '06-07 MODELS ).

1. '03-04 models:
FR signal circuit (see '03-
04 MODELS ).
2. '05-07 models:
After warming up, idle
speed is below
specification without
07 MODELS ).
load (MIL works OK,
no DTCs set) 3. '03-05 models: Test the
MODELS ).
4. '06-07 model: Do the
carbon accumulation check
(see '06-07 MODELS ).
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5. Troubleshoot the PSP

switch signal circuit (see
PSP SWITCH SIGNAL
CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
6. Troubleshoot the A/C
signal circuit (see A/C
SIGNAL CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
cable; '03-05 models (see
'03-05 MODELS ), '06-07
models (see '06-07
MODEL ).
2. '03-04 models:
04 MODELS ).
3. '05-07 models:
After warming up, idle Troubleshoot the alternator
speed is above FR signal circuit (see '05-
specification without 07 MODELS ).
load (MIL works OK, 4. '06-07 models: Inspect the
no DTCs set) APP sensor (see APP
SENSOR SIGNAL
INSPECTION ).
5. '03-05 models: Inspect the
TP sensor (see
THROTTLE POSITION
SENSOR SIGNAL
INSPECTION ).
6. Troubleshoot the PSP
switch signal circuit (see
PSP SWITCH SIGNAL
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CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
7. Troubleshoot the A/C
signal circuit (see A/C
SIGNAL CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
1. Check the fuel pressure (see
FUEL PRESSURE
TEST ).
Low
2. '03-05 models: Test the compression
Low power (MIL works throttle body (see '03-05
Incorrect
OK, no DTCs set) MODELS ).
camshaft timing
Incorrect engine
cable; '03-05 models (see
oil level
'03-05 MODELS ), '06-07
models (see '06-07
MODEL ).

ECM/PCM IDLE
LEARN PROCEDURE ).
2. Check the fuel pressure (see
FUEL PRESSURE
Intake air leaks
Engine stalls (MIL TEST ).
works OK, no DTCs Faulty harness
set) and sensor
IDLE SPEED
connections
INSPECTION ).
4. Troubleshoot the brake
pedal position switch signal
circuit (see BRAKE
PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH SIGNAL
CIRCUIT
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TROUBLESHOOTING ).
1. Check the fuel vent tube
between the EVAP canister
and the fuel tank.
2. Check the fuel tank vapor
recirculation tube between
the fuel pipe and the fuel
Difficult to refuel (MIL
tank. Malfunctioning gas
works OK, no DTCs
set) 3. Check the fuel tank signal station filling nozzle.
tube between the fuel pipe
and the fuel tank (SULEV
and LX-P models).
4. Replace the fuel tank (see
FUEL TANK
REPLACEMENT ).
Replace the fuel tank (see
Fuel overflows during Malfunctioning gas
FUEL TANK
refueling (No DTCs set) station filling nozzle.
REPLACEMENT ).
Fuel overflows during
refuel (No DTCs set).
Replace the fuel tank
(see FUEL TANK
REPLACEMENT ).
Malfunction gas station
filling nozzle.
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
ELECTRONIC CONTROL SYSTEM
The functions of the fuel and emission control systems are managed by the engine
control module (ECM) on vehicles with manual transmission, or the powertrain
control module (PCM) on vehicles with automatic transmissions.
Self-diagnosis
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The ECM/PCM detects a failure of a signal from a sensor or from another control
unit and stores a Temporary DTC or a DTC. Depending on the failure, a DTC is
stored in the either first or the second drive cycle. When a DTC is stored, the
ECM/PCM turns on the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) by supplying ground to
the MIL circuit.
One Drive Cycle Detection Method

When an abnormality occurs in the signal from a sensor or from another
control unit, the ECM/PCM stores a DTC and turns on the MIL.
Two Drive Cycle Detection Method
When an abnormality occurs in the signal from a sensor or from another

control unit in the first drive cycle, the ECM/PCM stores a Temporary DTC.
The MIL does not come on at this time. If the failure continues in the second
drive cycle, the ECM/PCM stores a DTC in erasable memory and turns on the
MIL.
Fail-safe Function
unit, the ECM/PCM ignores that signal, and substitutes a pre programmed value for
them that allows the engine to continue running. This causes a DTC to be stored
and the MIL to comes on.
MIL Bulb Check and Readiness Code Condition
When the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the ECM/PCM supplies ground to the
MIL circuit for about 15 to 20 seconds to check the bulb condition. If any readiness
codes are not set to complete, the MIL flashes five times. If all readiness codes are
set to complete, the MIL goes out.
Self Shut Down (SSD) Mode
After the ignition switch is turned OFF, the ECM/PCM stays on (up to 15 minutes).
If the ECM/PCM connector is disconnected during this time, the ECM/PCM may
be damaged. To cancel this mode, disconnect the negative cable from the battery or
jump the SCS line with the HDS after the ignition switch is turned OFF.
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ECM/PCM Electrical Connections
Fig. 14: ECM/PCM Electrical Connection Wiring Diagram (1 of 5)

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ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR A (31P)
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Fig. 19: ECM/PCM Inputs & Outputs at Connector A (31P) (1 of 2)

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Fig. 20: ECM/PCM Inputs & Outputs at Connector A (31P) (2 of 2)

ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR B (24P)
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Fig. 21: ECM/PCM Inputs & Outputs at Connector B (24P)

ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR C (22P)
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Fig. 22: ECM/PCM Inputs & Outputs at Connector C (22P)

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Fig. 23: ECM/PCM Inputs & Outputs at Connector C (22P) (2 of 2)

ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR D (17P)
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Fig. 24: ECM/PCM Inputs & Outputs Connector D (17P)

ECM/PCM INPUTS AND OUTPUTS AT CONNECTOR E (31P)
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Fig. 25: ECM/PCM Inputs & Outputs at Connector E (31P) (1 of 2)

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Fig. 26: ECM/PCM Inputs & Outputs at Connector E (31P) (2 of 2)

VACUUM HOSE ROUTING
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Fig. 27: Identifying Vacuum Hose Routing

VACUUM DISTRIBUTION
Non-SULEV model
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Fig. 28: Identifying Vacuum Distribution (Non-SULEV Model (2003-2005

Models))
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Fig. 29: Identifying Vacuum Distribution (Non-SULEV Model (2006-07

Models))
SULEV model
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Fig. 30: Identifying Vacuum Distribution (SULEV Model (2003-2005 Models))

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Fig. 31: Identifying Vacuum Distribution (SULEV Model (2006-2007 Models))

PGM-FI SYSTEM
The programmed fuel injection (PGM-FI) system is a sequential multiport fuel

injection system.
Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Clutch Relay
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When the ECM/PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays
the compressor from being energized and enriches the mixture to assure smooth
transition to the A/C mode.
Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed
upstream of the TWC, and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which varies the
duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Fig. 32: Identifying Air Fuel Ratio Sensor

Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
The BARO sensor is inside the ECM/PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a
voltage signal that the ECM/PCM uses to modify the basic duration of the fuel
injection discharge.
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B
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CMP sensor B detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for
sequential fuel injection to each cylinder.
Fig. 33: Identifying Camshaft Position Sensor B

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the ECM/PCM to
determine ignition timing and timing for fuel injection of each cylinder, as well as
detecting engine misfire.
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Fig. 34: Identifying Crankshaft Position Sensor

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor ('05-07 models: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor 1)
The ECT sensor ('05-07 models: ECT sensor 1) is a temperature dependent resistor
(thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant
temperature increases.
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Fig. 35: Identifying ECT Sensor (2005-2007 Models: ECT Sensor 1)

Ignition Timing Control
The ECM/PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine
speeds and manifold absolute pressures. It also adjusts the timing according to
engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature.
Injector Timing and Duration
The ECM/PCM contains the memory for basic discharge duration at various engine
speeds and manifold pressures. The basic discharge duration, after being read out
from the memory, is further modified by signals sent from various sensors to obtain
the final discharge duration.
By monitoring long term fuel trim, the ECM/PCM detects long term malfunctions
in the fuel system and sets a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor (except '03-04 SULEV, LX-P models, and '05-07 models)
The IAT sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of

the thermistor decreases as the intake air temperature increases.
Fig. 36: Identifying IAT Sensor (Except 2003-2004 SULEV, LX-P Models And
2005-2007 Models)
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
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Fig. 37: Identifying Knock Sensor

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Indication (In relation to Readiness Codes)
codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these
codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the vehicle may fail
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the test, or the test cannot be finished.
but do not start the engine. The MIL will come on for 15---20 seconds. If it then
goes off, the readiness codes are complete. If it flashes five times, one or more
readiness codes are not complete. To set each code, drive the vehicle or run the
engine as described in the procedures (see HOW TO SET READINESS
CODES ).
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the
ECM/PCM.
Fig. 38: Identifying Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor/Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor ('03-04 SULEV, LX-P models, and '05-07 models)
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The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot
wire and a thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the
hot wire and thermistor change due to intake air temperature and air flow. The
control circuit in the MAF sensor controls the current to keep the hot wire at a set
temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the control circuit, then output to
the ECM/PCM.
Fig. 39: Identifying MAF Sensor/IAT Sensor (2003-2004 SULEV, LX-P

Models And 2005-2007 Models)
Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor (M/T)
This sensor detects countershaft speed.

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Fig. 40: Identifying Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor (M/T)

Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S)
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of
the three way catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the ECM/PCM which
varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor
has an internal heater. The ECM/PCM compares the HO2S output with the A/F
sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is on the TWC.
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Fig. 41: Identifying Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor

Throttle Position (TP) Sensor ('03-05 models)
The TP sensor is a potentiometer connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the

throttle position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the ECM/PCM. The
TP sensor is not available separately from the throttle body.
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Fig. 42: Identifying Throttle Position Sensor (2003-2005 Models)

ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM ('06-07 MODELS)
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system.

Refer to the Electronic Throttle Control System Diagram ('06-07 models) to see
a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the ECM/PCM controls the throttle actuator
to maintain the proper idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the ECM/PCM opens
the throttle valve depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The ECM/PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed
when the cruise control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the
cruise control actuator.
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
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As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the
ECM/PCM.
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Fig. 43: Identifying Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor

Throttle Body
The throttle body is a single-barrel side draft type. The lower portion of the throttle
valve is heated by engine coolant from the cylinder head to prevent icing of the
throttle plate.
Fig. 44: Identifying Throttle Body

VTEC/VTC
The i-VTEC has a VTC (Variable Valve Timing Control) mechanism on the
intake camshaft in addition to the usual VTEC.
This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all
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levels of engine speed, vehicle speed, and engine load.

The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than
one cam profile.
The VTC changes the phase of the intake camshaft via oil pressure. It changes
the intake valve timing continuously.
Fig. 45: Identifying VTEC/VTC Flow System

VTC System
The VTC system makes continuous intake valve timing changes based on
operating conditions.
Intake valve timing is optimized to allow the engine to produce maximum
power.
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Cam angle is advanced to obtain the EGR effect and reduce pumping loss. The
intake valve is closed quickly to reduce the entry of the air/fuel mixture into
the intake port and improve the charging effect.
The system reduces the cam advance at idle, stabilizes combustion, and
reduces engine speed.
If a malfunction occurs, the VTC system control is disabled and the valve
timing is fixed at the fully retarded position.
Fig. 46: Identifying VTC System

VTEC System
The VTEC system changes the cam profile to correspond to the engine speed.
It maximizes torque at low engine speed and output at high engine speed.
The low lift cam is used at low engine speeds, and the high lift cam is used at
high engine speeds.
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Fig. 47: Identifying VTEC System

VTEC/VTC
System Diagram
Fig. 48: VTEC/VTC System Diagram

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A
CMP sensor A detects camshaft angle position for the VTC system.
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Fig. 49: Identifying Camshaft Position Sensor A

IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM
'03-05 models
the ECM/PCM controls current to the idle air control (IAC) valve to maintain the
correct idle speed. Refer to the Idle Control System Diagram (2003-2005 models)
to see the functional layout of the system.
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'06-07 models
the ECM/PCM controls current to the throttle actuator to maintain the correct idle
speed.
Brake Pedal Position Switch
The brake pedal position switch signals the ECM/PCM when the brake pedal is
pressed.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve ('03-05 models)
To maintain proper idle speed, the IAC valve changes the amount of air bypassing
the throttle body in response to an electrical signal from the ECM/PCM.
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Fig. 50: Identifying Idle Air Control Valve (2003-2005 Models)

Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch
The PSP switch signals the ECM/PCM when the power steering load is high.
FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM
Fuel Cutoff Control
During deceleration with the throttle valve closed, current to the injectors is cut off
to improve fuel economy at engine speeds over 1,000 rpm (A/T ('06-07 models):
1,200 rpm). Fuel cutoff control also occurs when the engine speed exceeds 6,700
rpm, regardless of the position of the throttle valve, to protect the engine from over-
revving. When the vehicle is stopped, the ECM/PCM cuts the fuel at engine speeds
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over 5,000 rpm (M/T ('03-05 models: 4,200 rpm)). The engine speed of fuel cut is
lower on a cold engine.
Fuel Pump Control
When the ignition is turned on, the ECM/PCM grounds PGM-FI main relay 2
(FUEL PUMP) which feeds current to the fuel pump for 2 seconds to pressurize the
fuel system. With the engine running, the ECM/PCM grounds PGM-FI main relay 2
(FUEL PUMP) and feeds current to the fuel pump. When the engine is not running
and the ignition is on, the ECM/PCM cuts ground to PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL
PUMP) which cuts current to the fuel pump.
PGM-FI Main Relay 1 and 2
PGM-FI main relay 1 (Fl MAIN) is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON
(II) to supply battery voltage to the ECM/PCM, power to the injectors, and power
for PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP). PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch
is turned ON (II), and when the engine is cranking or running.
INTAKE AIR SYSTEM
Refer to the Intake Air System Diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Intake Air Bypass Control Thermal Valve
When the engine is cold, the intake air bypass control thermal valve sends air to the
injector.
The amount of air is regulated by engine coolant temperature.

Once the engine is hot, the intake air bypass thermal valve closes, stopping air to
the injector.
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Fig. 51: Identifying Intake Air Bypass Control Thermal Valve

Throttle Body ('03-05 models)
The throttle body is a single-barrel side draft type. The lower portion of the idle air
control (IAC) valve is heated by engine coolant from the cylinder head to prevent
icing of the throttle plate.
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Fig. 52: Identifying Throttle Valve Body (2003-2005 Models)

CATALYTIC CONVERTER SYSTEM
Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC)
The TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of
nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO ), nitrogen (N ), and
2 2
water vapor.
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Fig. 53: Identifying Three Way Catalytic Converter

POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION (PCV) SYSTEM
The PCV valve prevents blow-by gasses from escaping into the atmosphere by
venting them into the intake manifold.
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Fig. 54: Identifying Positive Crankcase Ventilation System

EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM
Refer to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Diagram to see a

functional layout of the system.
EGR Valve
The EGR valve lowers peak combustion temperatures and reduces oxides of
nitrogen emissions (NOx) by recirculating exhaust gas through the intake manifold
and into the combustion chambers.
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EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CONTROL SYSTEM
Refer to the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control Diagram to see a functional

layout of the system.
EVAP Canister
The EVAP canister temporarily stores fuel vapor from the fuel tank until it can be
purged from the EVAP canister into the engine and burned.
When the engine coolant temperature is below 131F (55C), the ECM/PCM turns
off the EVAP canister purge valve which cuts vacuum to the EVAP canister.
Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the
ECM/PCM.
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Fig. 55: Identifying Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor

The EVAP canister vent shut valve is on the EVAP canister.
The EVAP canister vent shut valve controls the venting of the EVAP canister.
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Fig. 56: Identifying EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve

FUEL CAP WARNING MESSAGE (2005-2007 MODELS)
The ECM/PCM detects whether the fuel fill cap is loose or missing under certain
conditions and alerts the driver by showing the information in the odometer/outside
temperature display. If the ECM/PCM detects a small volume leak, the MIL may
come on during the second drive cycle and store a DTC.
First drive cycle
During the first drive cycle after a cold start, the ECM/PCM alerts the driver to
check the fuel fill cap by showing a "CHECK FUEL CAP" message in the
odometer/outside temperature display (A), and it stores Temporary DTC P0457
"Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Leak Detected/Fuel Cap Loose or
Missing". Tightening the fuel cap does not make the message go off immediately.
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Fig. 57: Identifying Fuel Cap Warning Message (First Drive Cycle)
To make the message go off (With the HDS)
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks at least once.

2. Clear the Temporary DTC with the HDS.
3. Verify there is no leak by doing the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the
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INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. Start the engine, and drive at a steady
speed over 28 mph (45 km/h), without moving the accelerator pedal, for about
1 minute.
To make the message go off (Without the HDS)
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks at least once.

3. Start the engine, and drive at a steady speed over 28 mph (45 km/h), without
moving the accelerator pedal, for about 1 minute.
Second drive cycle
During the second drive cycle after a cold start, if the fuel fill cap is still loose or
missing, the ECM/PCM alerts the driver to check the fuel fill cap by showing a
"CHECK FUEL CAP" message in the odometer/outside temperature display as
same as the first drive cycle. Tightening the fuel cap does not make the message go
off immediately.
Third drive cycle
During the third drive cycle after a cold start, if the fuel fill cap is still loose or
missing, the ECM/PCM stores DTC P0457 "Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System
Leak Detected/Fuel Cap Loose or Missing". The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL)
(A) comes on, and the "CHECK FUEL CAP" message goes off.
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Fig. 58: Identifying MIL (Third Drive Cycle)

IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM DIAGRAM ('03-05 MODELS)
The engine idle speed is controlled by the idle air control (IAC) valve:
After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain amount of time. The
amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed.
When the engine coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain
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the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation
to engine coolant temperature.
Fig. 59: Identifying Idle Control System Diagram (2003-2005 Models)

INTAKE AIR SYSTEM DIAGRAM
This system supplies air for engine needs. A resonator in the intake air duct
provides additional silencing as air is drawn into the system.
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Fig. 60: Identifying Intake Air System Diagram

ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM DIAGRAM ('06-07 MODELS)
The electronic throttle control system consists of the throttle actuator, throttle
position (TP) sensor, accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor, throttle actuator
control module, and the ECM/PCM. The throttle is electronically controlled by this
system.
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Fig. 61: Identifying Electronic Throttle Control System Diagram ('06-07

Models)
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM DIAGRAM
The EGR system reduces oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions by recirculating

exhaust gas through the EGR valve and the intake manifold into the combustion
chambers. The ECM/PCM memory includes the ideal EGR valve position for
varying operating conditions.
The EGR valve position sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends it to
the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM then compares it with the ideal lift in its memory
(based on signals sent from other sensors). If there is any difference between the
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two, the ECM/PCM cuts current to the EGR valve.
Fig. 62: Identifying Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Diagram (2003-2005

Models)
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CONTROL DIAGRAM
The EVAP controls minimize the amount of fuel vapor escaping to the atmosphere.
Vapor from the fuel tank is temporarily stored in the EVAP canister until it can be
purged from the canister into the engine and burned.
The EVAP canister is purged by drawing fresh air through it and into a port on
The purging vacuum is controlled by the EVAP canister purge valve, which
operates whenever engine coolant temperature is above 131 F (55 C).
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During refueling, the fuel tank vapor control valve opens with the pressure in
the fuel tank, and feeds the fuel vapor to the EVAP canister (SULEV model).
Fig. 63: Identifying Evaporative Emission Control Diagram

ECM/PCM CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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HOW TO SET READINESS CODES
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) INDICATION (IN RELATION TO READINESS
CODES)
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readiness codes are reset. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make
sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to complete, the
vehicle may fail the emission test, or the test cannot be finished.
codes are not set to complete. To set readiness codes from incomplete to complete,
do the procedure for the appropriate code.
To check the status of a specific DTC system, check the OBD status in the DTC
MENU with the HDS (see SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ). This screen
displays the code, the current data list of the enable criteria, and the status of the
readiness testing.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
HDS.
Low ambient temperatures or excessive stop-and-go
traffic may increase the drive time needed to switch the
readiness code from incomplete to complete.
The readiness code will not switch to complete until all
the enable criteria are met.
If a fault in the secondary HO2S system caused the MIL
to come on, the readiness code cannot be set to
complete until you correct the fault.
Enable Criteria
ECT at 158F (70C) or more.

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Intake air temperature (IAT) at -13F (-25C) or higher.

Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) reads more than 3 mph (5 km/h).
Procedure
1. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's data link connector (DLC), and bring up the
READINESS CODEs screen for Catalyst in the DTCs MENU.
steady cruise. After about 5 miles (8 km), the readiness code should switch to
completed.
4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a Temporary DTC
with the HDS. If there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were
probably not met; repeat the procedure.
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CONTROL SYSTEM MONITOR AND READINESS CODE

HDS.
Enable Criteria
Battery voltage is higher than 10.5 V.

Engine at idle.
ECT sensor between 176F (80C) and 212F (100C).
MAP sensor less than 46.6 kPa (14 in.Hg, 350 mmHg).
Vehicle speed 0 mph (0 km/h).
IAT sensor between 32F (0C) and 212F (100C).
Procedure

3. Select EVAP TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS, then select the
FUNCTION TEST in the EVAP TEST MENU.
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If the functions are normal, readiness is complete.

If the functions are not normal, go to the next step.
4. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If
there is no DTC, one or more of the enable criteria were probably not met;
repeat the procedure.
AIR FUEL RATIO (A/F) SENSOR MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
HDS.
Enable Criteria

Procedure

steady cruise. During the drive, decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) for 5
seconds. After about 3.5 miles (5.6 km), the readiness code should switch from
incomplete to complete.
3. Check the readiness codes screen for the Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor in the
DTCs MENU with the HDS.
If the screen shows complete, readiness is complete.
If the screen shows not complete, go to the next step.
4. Check for a Temporary DTC. If there is no DTC, the enable criteria was
probably not met. Select the DATA LIST Menu. Check the ECT in the ALL
DATA LIST with the HDS. If the ECT is lower than 158F (70C), run the
engine until it is higher than 158F (70C), then repeat the procedure.
AIR FUEL RATIO (A/F) SENSOR HEATER MONITOR READINESS CODE

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HDS.
Procedure
1. Start the engine, and let it idle for 1 minute. The readiness code should switch
from incomplete to complete.
2. If the readiness code is still not set to complete, check for a temporary DTC. If
there is no DTC, repeat the procedure.
MISFIRE MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
This readiness code is always set to available because misfiring is continuously

monitored.
Monitoring pauses, and the misfire counter resets, if the vehicle is driven over
a rough road.
Monitoring also pauses, and the misfire counter holds at its current value, if the
throttle position changes more than a predetermined value, or if driving
conditions fall outside the range of any related enable criteria.
FUEL SYSTEM MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
This readiness code is always set to available because the fuel system is
continuously monitored during closed loop operation.
Monitoring pauses when the catalytic converter, EVAP control system, and
A/F sensor monitors are active.
Monitoring also pauses when any related enable criteria are not being met.
Monitoring resumes when the enable criteria is again being met.
COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
This readiness code is always set to available because the comprehensive

component monitor is continuously running whenever the engine is cranking or
running.
EGR MONITOR AND READINESS CODE
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HDS.
Enable Criteria

Procedure

3. Drive at a steady speed with the A/T in D or M/T in 4th gear, 50-62 mph (80-
100 km/h) or above for more than 10 seconds.
4. With the A/T in D or M/T in 4th gear, decelerate from 62 mph (100 km/h) or
above by completely releasing the throttle for at least 5 seconds. If the engine
is stopped during this procedure, go to step 2 and do the procedure again.
5. Check the OBD status screen for DTC P0401 in the DTC's MENU with the
HDS.
If it is passed, readiness is complete.
If it is not passed, go to step 3 and retest.
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2003-07 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Fuel Supply System - Accord (V6)
Fuel Supply System - Accord (V6)
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Fig. 1: Identifying Fuel Supply System Components

DTC CODES
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DTC CHART
DTC Description
DTC P0461 Fuel Level Sensor (Fuel Gauge Sending Unit)
Range/Performance Problem (2005-2007 models)
DTC P0462 Fuel Level Sensor (Fuel Gauge Sending Unit) Circuit
Low Voltage (2005-2007 models)
DTC P0463 Fuel Level Sensor (Fuel Gauge Sending Unit) Circuit
High Voltage (2005-2007 models)
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0461: FUEL LEVEL SENSOR (FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT) RANGE/PERFORMANCE
PROBLEM (2005-2007 MODELS)
Because it requires 162 miles (260 km) of driving
without refueling to complete this diagnosis, DTC
P0461 cannot be duplicated during this
troubleshooting.
1. Test the fuel gauge sending unit (see 2005-2007 MODELS ).

Is the fuel gauge sending unit OK?
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the fuel gauge
sending unit and the gauge assembly.
NO - Replace the fuel gauge sending unit (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL
GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT), then go to step 2.
PROCEDURE ).
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terminals at the fuel gauge sending unit and the gauge assembly, then go
to step 1. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the
indicated DTC TROUBLESHOOTING.
DTC P0462: FUEL LEVEL SENSOR (FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT) CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE
(2005-2007 MODELS)
Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to 2005
model.
Information marked with double asterisk (**) applies to
2007 model.

2. Clear the DTC with the HDS, and wait 5 seconds.

YES - Go to step 4.
connections or loose terminals at the gauge control module and the fuel
gauge sending unit.
5. Remove the trunk floor trim panel.
6. Remove the access panel from the floor.
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7. Disconnect the fuel tank unit 5P connector.

YES - Replace the fuel gauge sending unit (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL
NO - Go to step 11.
12. Remove the gauge control module, refer to GAUGE CONTROL MODULE
REPLACEMENT .
13. Disconnect the gauge control module 30P* (36P)** connector.
14. Check for continuity between fuel tank unit 5P connector terminal No. 2 and
body ground.
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Fig. 2: Checking Continuity Between Fuel Tank Unit 5P Connector

YES - Repair short in the wire between the gauge control module (signal
line) and the fuel gauge sending unit, then go to step 23.
NO - Go to step 15.
15. Reconnect the gauge control module 30P* (36P**) connector.
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16. Remove the fuel tank unit (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING
UNIT REPLACEMENT).
17. Connect the fuel tank unit 5P connector.
20. Set the float (A) to the E position.
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Fig. 3: Setting Float To E Position

21. Check the fuel gauge.
Does the gauge move to the empty position?
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NO - Replace the gauge control module, refer to GAUGE CONTROL
MODULE REPLACEMENT , then go to step 22.
PROCEDURE ).

terminals at the gauge control module and the fuel gauge sending unit,
then go to step 1. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go
to the indicated DTC TROUBLESHOOTING.

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DTC P0463: FUEL LEVEL SENSOR (FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT) CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE
(2005-2007 MODELS)
Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to 2005
model.
2007 model.

YES - Go to step 4.
gauge sending unit.
8. Connect fuel tank unit 5P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a
jumper wire.
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Fig. 4: Connecting Fuel Tank Unit 5P Connector Terminal To Body

9. Remove the gauge control module, refer to GAUGE CONTROL MODULE

REPLACEMENT .
10. Disconnect the gauge control module 30P* (36P**) connector.
11. Check for continuity between gauge control module 30P* (36P**) connector
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Fig. 5: Checking Continuity Between Gauge Control Module 30P*

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Fig. 6: Checking Continuity Between Gauge Control Module 36P**


NO - Repair open in the wire between the gauge control module (GND
jumper wire.
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Fig. 7: Connecting Fuel Tank Unit 5P Connector Terminal To Body

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NO - Repair open in the wire between the gauge control module (signal
14. Remove the jumper wire from the fuel tank unit 5P connector.
UNIT REPLACEMENT).
16. Test the fuel gauge sending unit (see 2005-2007 MODELS).

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NO - Replace the fuel gauge sending unit (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL

21. Set the float (A) to the F position.
Fig. 10: Setting Float To F Position

Does the gauge move to the full position?
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NO - Replace the gauge control module, refer to GAUGE CONTROL
MODULE REPLACEMENT , then go to step 23.
PROCEDURE ).


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FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
If you suspect a problem with the fuel pump, check that the fuel pump actually
runs; when it is on, you will hear some noise if you listen to the fuel fill port with
the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition
switch is first turned on. If the fuel pump does not make noise, check as follows:

2. Remove the left kick panel, refer top SIDE SILL PANEL
REPLACEMENT , then remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A)
from the under-dash fuse/ relay box.
Fig. 11: Identifying PGM-FI Main Relay 2

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4. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) 4P connector
Fig. 12: Measuring Voltage Between PGM-FI Main Relay 2 4P Connector

YES - Go to step 5.
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NO -
Replace PGM-FI main relay 1 (FI MAIN).
If needed, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box, refer to UNDER-

DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6) .
Fig. 13: Measuring Voltage Between PGM-FI Main Relay 4P Connector

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YES - Go to step 6.
NO -
Check the No. 19 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.
If needed, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box, refer to UNDER-
DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6) .
7. Connect PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) 4P connector terminal No. 4 to
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Fig. 14: Connecting PGM-FI Main Relay 4P Connector Terminal To Body


11. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal
A2.
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Connector Terminal A2

NO - Repair open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL
PUMP) and the ECM/PCM (A2).
12. Reinstall PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP).
13. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminal A5 to body ground with jumper wire.
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Fig. 16: Connecting ECM/PCM Connector Terminal A5 To Body Ground

With Jumper Wire

15. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A2 and body ground.
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And Body Ground

NO - Replace PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP).
17. Reconnect ECM/PCM connector A (31P).
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20. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM/PCM
connector terminal A2 and body ground within 2 seconds.

And Body Ground

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substitute a known-good ECM/ PCM (see ECM/PCM UPDATING AND

SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING , then recheck. If the symptom/
indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original
ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ), then go to step 21.
NO - If needed, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box, refer to UNDER-
DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6) , then go to
step 21.
23. Remove the access panel from the floor (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE
SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT).
24. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between fuel pump 5P
connector terminal No. 5 and body ground within 2 seconds.
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Fig. 19: Measuring Voltage Between Fuel Pump 5P Connector Terminal

And Body Ground
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NO - Go to step 25.
26. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP).
27. Connect PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) 4P connector terminals No. 1
and No. 2 with a jumper wire.
Fig. 20: Connecting PGM-FI Main Relay 4P Connector Terminals With

Jumper Wire
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And Body Ground
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YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP).

PUMP) and the fuel pump 5P connector.
30. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No. 4 and body
ground.
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Fig. 22: Checking Continuity Between Fuel Pump 5P Connector Terminal

And Body Ground
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YES - Replace the fuel pump.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the fuel pump 5P connector and
G603.
FUEL PRESSURE RELIEVING
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by
stopping the fuel pump and disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the
engine compartment.
WITH THE HDS

3. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, then start
the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or

the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel
pump.
A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this
procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as
needed (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).

6. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio and the navigation system
(if equipped), then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
8. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A).
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Fig. 23: Identifying Quick-Connect Fitting Cover

9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed.
10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A).
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Fig. 24: Placing Rag Or Shop Towel Over Quick-Connect Fitting

11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one
hand, and squeeze the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release them
from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts.

Do not use tools.
If the connector does not move, keep the retainer
tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and push
the connector until it comes off easily.
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Do not remove the retainer from the line; once

removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
Fig. 25: Disconnecting Quick-Connect Fitting

12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage (see
step 4 in Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Removal ).
13. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery, and do these items:
Power window control unit reset procedure, refer to RESETTING THE
POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT .
enter the customer's radio station presets.
Reset the clock.
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WITHOUT THE HDS
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, and the navigation system
2. Remove the left kick panel, refer to 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA or 4-
DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA , then remove PGM-FI main relay 2
(FUEL PUMP) (A) from the under-dash fuse/ relay box.
Fig. 26: Identifying PGM-FI Main Relay

3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them.
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Fig. 27: Identifying Quick-Connect Fitting Cover

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Do not use tools.
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one.

Power window control unit reset procedure, refer to RESETTING THE
Reset the clock.
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FUEL PRESSURE TEST
Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A

Fuel pressure gauge attachment set 07AAJ-S6MA150
1. Relieve the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE RELIEVING).

2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting. Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the
fuel pressure gauge.
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Fig. 30: Attaching Fuel Pressure Gauge Set And Fuel Pressure Gauge

If the engine starts, go to step 5.
If the engine does not start, go to step 4.
4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the
fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the
ignition switch is first turned on.
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If the pump runs, go to step 5.

If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting (see
FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING).
5. Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be 380-430 kPa (3.9-4.4
2
kgf/cm , 55-63 psi).
If the pressure is OK, the test is complete.
If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator

(see FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT) and the
fuel filter (see FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT), then recheck the fuel
pressure.
FUEL TANK DRAINING
UNIT REPLACEMENT).
2. Using a hand pump, a hose, and a container suitable for fuel, draw the fuel
from the fuel tank.
3. Install the fuel tank unit (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING
UNIT REPLACEMENT).
FUEL LINE INSPECTION
Check the fuel system lines, hoses, and fuel filter for damage, leaks, or
deterioration. Replace any damaged parts.
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Fig. 31: Inspecting Fuel Line

Check all clamps and retighten any if necessary.
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Fig. 32: Checking Clamps

FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING PRECAUTIONS
The fuel line/quick-connect fittings (A), (B), (C), (D) connect the fuel rail (E) to the
fuel feed hose (F), the fuel feed hose to the fuel feed hose (G), the fuel feed hose to
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the fuel line (H), and the fuel line (I) to the fuel tank unit (J) and the fuel vapor line
(K) to the EVAP canister (L). When removing or installing the fuel feed hose, fuel
tank unit or fuel tank, it is necessary to disconnect or connect the quick-connect
fittings. Pay attention to the following:
The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-connect fittings are not heat-resistant;
be careful not to damage them during welding or other heat-generating
procedures.
The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do
not touch them with a shop towel that was used for wiping battery electrolyte.
Replace them if they came into contact with electrolyte or something similar.
When connecting or disconnecting the fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-
connect fittings, be careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them
if they are damaged.
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Fig. 33: Precautions Of Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 34: Precautions Of Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting (2 Of 2)

A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on the

mating line cannot be reused once it has been removed from the line. Replace the
retainer when:
replacing the fuel rail.

replacing the fuel line.
replacing the fuel pump.
replacing the fuel filter.
replacing the fuel gauge sending unit.
replacing EVAP purge line.
replacing EVAP canister.
it has been removed from the line.
it is damaged.
RETAINER COLOR SPECIFICATION

Place Manufacturer Retainer color Piping diameter
Blue 0.3 in.
A Tokai
green (8 mm)
0.4 in.
B Tokai Orange
(9.5 mm)
0.2 in.
C Tokai Green
(6.3 mm)
0.4 in.
D Tokai Orange
(9.5 mm)
FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING REMOVAL
NOTE: Before you work on the fuel lines and fittings, see FUEL
LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING PRECAUTIONS .

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2. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting (A) for dirt, and clean it if needed.
Fig. 35: Checking Fuel Quick-Connect Fitting For Dirt

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3. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting.
Hold the connector (A) with one hand, and squeeze the retainer tabs (B) with
the other hand to release them from the locking tabs (C). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the line (D) or other parts.

Do not use tools.
one.
Fig. 36: Holding Connector And Squeezing Retainer Tabs To Release

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4. Check the contact area (A) of the line (B) for dirt or damage.
If it is dirty, clean it.
If it is rusty or damaged, replace the fuel pump, fuel filter, or fuel feed
line.
Fig. 37: Checking Contact Area

5. To prevent damage and keep foreign matter out, cover the disconnected
connector and line ends with plastic bags (A).
NOTE: The retainer cannot be reused once it has been

removed from the line. Replace the retainer when:

replacing the fuel feed line.
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It is damaged.
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Fig. 38: Covering Disconnected Connector And Line Ends With Plastic
Bags
FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING INSTALLATION
NOTE: Before you work on the fuel lines and fittings, see FUEL
LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING PRECAUTIONS .
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1. Check the contact area (A) of the line (B) for dirt or damage, and clean it if
needed.
Fig. 39: Checking Contact Area Of Line For Dirt Or Damage

2. Insert a new retainer (A) into the connector (B) if the retainer is damaged, or
after:
removing the retainer from the line.
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Fig. 40: Inserting Retainer Into Connector

3. Before connecting a new fuel tube/quick-connect fitting assembly (A), remove

the old retainer from the mating line.
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Fig. 41: Identifying Old Retainer From Mating Line

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4. Align the quick-connect fittings with the line (A), and align the retainer locking
tabs (B) with the connector tabs (C). Then press the quick-connect fittings onto
the line until both retainer pawls lock with a clicking sound.
NOTE: If it is hard to connect, put a small amount of new

engine oil on the line end.
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Fig. 42: Aligning Quick-Connect Fittings With Line

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5. When you are reconnecting the connector with the old retainer, make sure the
connection is secure and the tabs (A) are firmly locked into place; check
visually and also by pulling the connector (B). When you are replacing the fuel
line with a new one, make sure you remove the ring pull (C) upwards after you
confirm the connection is secure.
NOTE: Before you remove the ring pull, make sure the fuel line
connection is secure. If the connection is not secure,
the ring pull could break when you try to remove it.
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Fig. 43: Making Sure Connection Is Secure And Tabs Firmly Locked Into
Place
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6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). The fuel pump will run for about 2 seconds,
and fuel pressure will rise. Repeat two or three times, and check that there is no
leakage in the fuel supply system.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
UNIT REPLACEMENT).
2. Remove the holder (A).
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Fig. 44: Identifying Holder

3. Remove the fuel pressure regulator (B).
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4. Install the regulator in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C).
NOTE: Coat the O-ring with clean engine oil.
FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
The fuel filter should be replaced whenever the fuel pressure drops below the
specified value (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST), after making sure that the fuel
pump and the fuel pressure regulator are OK.
UNIT REPLACEMENT).
2. Remove the fuel filter set (A).
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Fig. 45: Identifying Fuel Filter Set

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3. Check these items before installing the fuel tank unit:

When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and
the connectors (B) are firmly locked into place.
When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (C), make sure the connection
is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (D) and
new O-rings (E). When installing the fuel tank unit, align the marks on the unit
and the fuel tank (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT
REPLACEMENT).
NOTE: Replace the fuel tank unit locknut (A), and base gasket
as a set.
FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT
Fuel sender wrench 07AAA-SOXA100

3. Remove the trunk floor.
4. Remove the access panel (A) from the floor.
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Fig. 46: Identifying Access Panel

5. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector (B).

6. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (C) from the fuel tank unit.
7. Using the special tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A).
Fig. 47: Loosening Fuel Tank Unit Locknut

8. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel tank unit.
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Fig. 48: Identifying Locknut And Fuel Tank Unit

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9. Remove the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the case (D), the
wire harness (E), and the fuel pressure regulator (F).
Make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly
connected to the fuel pump (H).
the connectors (I) are firmly locked into place.
When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is
secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to
11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (J), new
locknut, and new O-rings (K). When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks (L) on the unit (M) and the fuel tank (N).
FUEL TANK REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL

2. Drain the fuel tank (see FUEL TANK DRAINING).
3. Loosen the rear wheel nuts slightly, then raise the vehicle, and make sure it is
securely supported. Remove the rear wheels.
5. Remove the mufflers and exhaust pipe B (see EXHAUST PIPE AND
MUFFLER REPLACEMENT ).
6. Disconnect the fuel fill neck tube (A) and breather hose (B).
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Fig. 49: Disconnecting Fuel Fill Neck Tube And Breather Hose
7. Disconnect the vapor line (A) from the EVAP canister (B) then disconnect the
fuel line (C).
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Fig. 50: Disconnecting Vapor Line

8. Disconnect the wheel sensor 2P connector (A).
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Fig. 51: Disconnecting Wheel Sensor 2P Connector

9. Remove the clip (A), parking brake cable (B), two caliper bolts (C), and caliper
body (D).
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Fig. 52: Identifying Clip, Parking Brake Cable, Caliper Bolts And Caliper
Body
10. Remove the brake hose bracket (A).
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Fig. 53: Identifying Brake Hose Bracket

11. Hook the caliper body (A) onto the damper spring (B).
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Fig. 54: Hooking Caliper Body Onto Damper Spring

12. Remove the flange bolt (A).
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Fig. 55: Identifying Flange Bolt

13. Remove the parking brake cable bracket bolt (A).
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Fig. 56: Identifying Parking Brake Cable Bracket Bolt

14. Remove the heat shield (A). Place a jack or support under the rear suspension
subframe. Remove the mounting bolts (B). Remove the rear suspension
subframe.
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Fig. 57: Identifying Heat Shield

15. Remove the bolts (A) and the fuel tank straps (B).
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Fig. 58: Identifying Fuel Tank Straps

16. Lift the fuel tank out of the subframe.

INSTALLATION
1. Install the fuel tank straps (A), and tighten the bolts (B).
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Fig. 59: Identifying Fuel Tank Straps

2. Place a jack or support under the rear suspension subframe. Install the
subframe, aligning the pins (A) with the holes in the subframe.
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Fig. 60: Identifying Subframe

3. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

4. If equipped with drum brakes, bleed the brake system after installing the brake
hose, refer to BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING . If not, go to step 5.
5. After installation, do a wheel alignment, refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT .
FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT TEST
2003-2004 MODELS
NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the
Gauges Circuit Diagram (see CIRCUIT DIAGRAM ).
1. Do multiplex integrated control system troubleshooting test mode A, refer to

(see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST
MODE A ).
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If no problem is found, go to step 2.

If DTC B1175 is indicated, go to the DTC B1175: FUEL GAUGE
SENDING UNIT SIGNALS INPUT ERROR .
2. Check the No. 21 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
3. Do the gauge drive circuit check, refer to SELF-DIAGNOSTIC
FUNCTION .
If the fuel gauge needle sweeps from the minimum to maximum position
and then returns to minimum, the gauge is OK. Go to step 4.
If the fuel gauge needle does not sweep correctly, replace the gauge
assembly and retest.
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8. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank (seeFUEL PUMP/FUEL
GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT).
9. Measure resistance between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the fuel pump 5P
connector with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL)
positions.
If you do not get the following readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit
(see FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT).
FLOAT POSITION SPECIFICATION
F 1/2 LOW E
7.6 in. 4.4 in. 2.0 in. (52.4 0.8 in. (25.6
Float Position (191.4mm) (113.1mm) mm) mm)
Resistance 19 to 21 205.5 to 215.5 487.9 to 617.1 770 to 790
(ohms)
NOTE: Remove the No. 15 BACK UP (40 A) fuse from the

under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds after
completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to
20 minutes for the fuel gauge to indicate the correct fuel
level.
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Fig. 62: Measuring Resistance Between Terminals Of Fuel Pump 5P

Connector
2005-2007 MODELS
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Gauges Circuit Diagram; 2005 model (see 2003-05

MODELS ), 2006-07 models (see 2006-07 MODEL ).
1. Check the No. 21 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before
testing.
2. 2005 model:
Do multiplex integrated control system
troubleshooting test mode A, refer to TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN

SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A .
2006-07 models:
Do the B-CAN system diagnosis Test Mode A
troubleshooting, refer to TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM

DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A .

If DTC B1175 or B1176 is indicated, goto the indicated DTC's

troubleshooting.
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6. Disconnect the fuel tank unit 5P connector (B).

7. Measure voltage between fuel tank unit 5P connector terminals No. 1 and No.
2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery voltage.
If the voltage is OK, go to step 8.
If the voltage is not as specified, check for:
-a short in the YEL/BLK wire to ground.

-an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK/WHT wire.
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Fig. 64: Measuring Voltage Between Fuel Tank Unit 5P Connector

Terminals With Ignition Switch ON (II)

9. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL
GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT).
10. Measure resistance between fuel tank unit 5P connector terminals No. 1 and
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No. 2 with the float at E (EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL INDICATOR), 1/2
(HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions.
If you do not get the following readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit
(see FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT).
FLOAT POSITION SPECIFICATION

F 1/2 LOW E
7.6 in. 4.4 in. (113.1 2.0 in. (52.4 0.8 in. (25.6
Float Postion (191.4mm) mm) mm) mm)
Resistance 19 to 21 205.5 to 215.5 487.9 to 617.1 770 to 790
(ohms)
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Fig. 65: Measuring Resistance Between Fuel Tank Unit 5P Connector

Terminals
11. Reconnect the fuel tank unit 5P connector.

12. Remove the No. 15 BACK UP (40 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box
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for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it.

14. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with the float at F.
If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F" replace the gauge
assembly.
If the gauge is OK, the test is complete.
NOTE: The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom

of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF,
regardless of the fuel level.
Remove the No. 15 BACK UP (40 A) fuse from the
under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds
after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may
take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge to indicate
the correct fuel level.
LOW FUEL INDICATOR TEST
1. Do the gauge drive circuit check, refer to SELF-DIAGNOSTIC

FUNCTION .
If the low fuel indicator flashes, go to step 2.
If the low fuel indicator does not flash, replace the gauge control module
assembly.
2. 2003-2005 models:
Do multiplex integrated control system

troubleshooting test mode A, refer to TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A .
2006-2007 models:
Do the B-CAN system diagnosis Test Mode A troubleshooting, refer to
TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE
A.
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If any DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC

TROUBLESHOOTING.
If no DTCs are indicated, go to step 3.
3. Do the fuel gauge sending unit test (see FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT
TEST ).
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2003-06 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Fuel Supply System - Accord
Fuel Supply System - Accord

NON-SULEV MODEL
Fig. 1: Locating Fuel Supply System Components (Non-SULEV Model)

SULEV MODEL
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Fig. 2: Locating Fuel Supply System Components (SULEV Model - 1 Of 2)

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Fig. 3: Locating Fuel Supply System Components (SULEV Model - 2 Of 2)

DTC CODES
DTC INDEX
DTC Description
Range/Performance Problem (2005-2006
models)
Circuit Low Voltage (2005-2006 models)
Circuit High Voltage (2005-2006 models)
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DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC P0461: FUEL LEVEL SENSOR (FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT) RANGE/PERFORMANCE
PROBLEM (2005-2006 MODELS)
NOTE: Because it requires 162 miles (260 km) of driving without

refueling to complete this diagnosis, DTC P0461 cannot be
duplicated during this troubleshooting.
1. Test the fuel gauge sending unit (see NON-SULEV MODEL ).
YES - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the fuel gauge
sending unit and the gauge assembly.
NO - Replace the fuel gauge sending unit; Non-SULEV model (see Non-
SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV model ), then go to step
2.
PROCEDURE ).

terminals at the fuel gauge sending unit and the gauge assembly, then go
to step 1. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the
DTC P0462: FUEL LEVEL SENSOR (FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT) CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE
(2005-2006 MODELS)
NOTE: Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to 2005
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model.
2006 model.

YES - Go to step 4.
gauge sending unit.

22.
REPLACEMENT ).
14. Check for continuity between fuel tank unit 5P connector terminal No. 2 and
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body ground.
Fig. 4: Checking For Continuity Between Fuel Tank Unit 5P Connector

YES - Repair short in the wire between the gauge control module (signal
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NO - Go to step 15.
16. Remove the fuel tank unit; Non-SULEV model (see Non-SULEV model ) or
SULEV model (see SULEV model ).
20. Set the float (A) to the E position.
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Fig. 5: Setting Float To E Position (Non-SULEV Model)

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Fig. 6: Setting Float To E Position (SULEV Model)

Does the gauge move to the empty position?

NO - Replace the gauge control module (see GAUGE CONTROL
MODULE REPLACEMENT ), then go to step 22.
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PROCEDURE ).

to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
known-good ECM/PCM (see UPDATING THE ECM/PCM ).

DTC P0463: FUEL LEVEL SENSOR (FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT) CIRCUIT HIGH VOLTAGE
(2005-2006 MODELS)
NOTE: Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to 2005

model.
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2006 model.

YES - Go to step 4.
gauge sending unit.
jumper wire.
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Fig. 7: Connecting Fuel Tank Unit 5P Connector Terminal No. 1 To Body


REPLACEMENT ).
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the gauge control module (GND
jumper wire.
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Fig. 10: Connecting Fuel Tank Unit 5P Connector Terminal No. 2 To

Body Ground With Jumper Wire
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the gauge control module (signal
14. Remove the jumper wire from the fuel tank unit 5P connector.
16. Test the fuel gauge sending unit; Non-SULEV model (see FUEL GAUGE
SENDING UNIT TEST ), SULEV model (see NON-SULEV MODEL ).
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23.
21. Set the float (A) to the F position.
Fig. 13: Setting Float To F Position (Non-SULEV Model)

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Fig. 14: Setting Float To F Position (SULEV Model)

Does the gauge move to the full position?

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NO - Replace the gauge control module (see GAUGE CONTROL

MODULE REPLACEMENT ), then go to step 23.
PROCEDURE ).

known-good ECM/PCM (see UPDATING THE ECM/PCM ).

FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
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If you suspect a problem with the fuel pump, check that the fuel pump actually
runs; when it is on, you will hear some noise if you listen to the fuel fill port with
the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition
switch is first turned on. If the fuel pump does not make noise, check as follows:
2. Remove the left kick panel; 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA ) or
4-door (see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA ), then remove PGM-FI
main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Fig. 15: Removing PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (FUEL PUMP)

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Fig. 16: Measuring Voltage Between PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (Fuel Pump)
4P Connector Terminal No. 3 And Body Ground

YES - Go to step 5.
NO -
Replace PGM-FI main relay 1 (FI MAIN)
If needed, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.

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Fig. 17: Measuring Voltage Between PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (Fuel Pump)
4P Connector Terminal No. 1 And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 6.
NO -
Replace the No. 19 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.
If needed, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.

7. Connect PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) 4P connector terminal No. 4 to
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Fig. 18: Connecting PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (Fuel Pump) 4P Connector

Terminal No. 4 To Body Ground With Jumper Wire

10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31 P).
11. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal
E17.
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Connector Terminal E17
PUMP) and the ECM/PCM (E17).
12. Reinstall PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP).
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13. Connect ECM/PCM connector terminal E7 to body ground with a jumper wire.
Fig. 20: Connecting ECM/PCM Connector Terminal E7 To Body Ground

With Jumper Wire

15. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal E17 and body
ground.
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And Body Ground

NO - Replace PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP).
17. Reconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P), and disconnect the jumper wire.
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20. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM/PCM
connector terminal E17 and body ground within 2 seconds.

And Body Ground

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substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (see UPDATING THE
ECM/PCM ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a
known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM
NO - If needed, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box, then go to step 21.
23. Remove the access panel from the floor; Non-SULEV model (see Non-
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NO - Go to step 25.
26. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP).
27. Connect PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) 4P connector terminals No. 1
and No. 2 with a jumper wire.
Fig. 24: Connecting PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (Fuel Pump) 4P Connector

Terminals No. 1 And No. 2 With Jumper Wire
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YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP).

PUMP) and the fuel pump 5P connector.
30. Check for continuity between fuel pump 5P connector terminal No. 4 and body
ground.
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Fig. 26: Checking Continuity Between Fuel Pump 5P Connector Terminal

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YES - Replace the fuel pump.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the fuel pump 5P connector and
G603.
FUEL PRESSURE RELIEVING
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by
stopping the fuel pump and disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the
engine compartment.
WITH THE HDS

3. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump OFF, then start
the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or

the ECM/PCM will continue to operate the fuel
pump.
A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this
procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them as
needed (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).

6. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio and the navigation system
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Do not use tools.
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one.

Power window control unit reset procedure (see RESETTING THE
Reset the clock.
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WITHOUT THE HDS
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, and the navigation system
(if equipped) then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
2. Remove the left kick panel; 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA ) or
4-door (see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA ), then remove PGM-FI
main relay 2 (FUEL PUMP) (A) from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Fig. 30: Removing PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (Fuel Pump)

3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: If any DTCs are stored, clear and ignore them.
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Do not use tools.
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one.

Power window control unit reset procedure (see RESETTING THE
Reset the clock.
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FUEL PRESSURE TEST
Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004000A

Fuel pressure gauge attachment set 07AAJ-S6MA150

2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting. Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the
fuel pressure gauge.
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Fig. 34: Attaching Fuel Pressure Gauge Set And Fuel Pressure Gauge

If the engine starts, go to step 5.
If the engine does not start, go to step 4.
4. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Listen to the fuel filler port with the
fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the
ignition switch is first turned on.
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If the pump runs, go to step 5.

If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting (see
FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
5. Read the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure should be:
2003-2004 SULEV models and 2006 (except SULEV) model

2
320-370 kPa (3.3-3.8 kgf/cm , 47-54 psi)
2003-2004 (except SULEV) models, 2005 model, and 2006 SULEV model
2
330-380 kPa (3.4-3.9 kgf/cm , 48-55 psi)
If the pressure is OK, the test is complete.
If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator;
Non-SULEV model (see FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
REPLACEMENT ) or SULEV model (see FUEL PRESSURE
REGULATOR REPLACEMENT ) and the fuel filter (see FUEL
FILTER REPLACEMENT ), then recheck the fuel pressure.
FUEL TANK DRAINING
2. Using a hand pump, a hose, and a container suitable for fuel, draw the fuel
from the fuel tank.
3. Install the fuel tank unit; Non-SULEV model (see Non-SULEV model ) or
FUEL LINE INSPECTION
Check the fuel system lines and hoses for damage, leaks, and deterioration. Replace
any damaged parts.
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Fig. 35: Checking Fuel System Lines And Hoses

Check all clamps, and retighten any if necessary.
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Fig. 36: Inspecting Fuel Line (Non-SULEV Model)

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Fig. 37: Inspecting Fuel Line (SULEV Model)

FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING PRECAUTIONS
The fuel line/quick-connect fittings connect the fuel rail (A) to fuel feed hose (B),
fuel feed hose to the fuel feed hose (C), the fuel feed hose to the fuel line (D), and
the fuel line (E) to the fuel tank unit (F) and the fuel vapor line (G) to the EVAP
canister (H) (SULEV model: and fuel fill neck tube (I), fuel tank vapor signal tube
(J), fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (K) to the fuel tank). When removing or
installing the fuel feed hose, fuel tank unit, or fuel tank, it is necessary to disconnect
or connect the quick-connect fittings.
Pay attention to the following:

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The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-connect fittings are not heat-resistant;
be careful not to damage them during welding or other heat-generating
procedures.
The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do
not touch them with a shop towel that was used for wiping battery electrolyte.
Replace them if they came into contact with electrolyte or something similar.
When connecting or disconnecting the fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-
connect fittings, be careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them
if they are damaged.
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Fig. 38: Identifying Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Precautions (1 Of 3)

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Fig. 41: Identifying Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Precautions (SULEV

Model)
A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on

the mating line cannot be reused once it has been removed from the line.
Replace the retainer when:
replacing the fuel line.
replacing the fuel tank (SULEV model).
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it is damaged.
RETAINER SPECIFICATIONS
Piping
Retainer location Manufacturer Retainer color
diameter
Engine
compartment fuel
Tokai Blue/green 0.3 in. (8 mm)
feed hose A, fuel
rail side
Engine
compartment fuel
feed hose A, fuel Tokai Green 0.2 in. (6.3 mm)
feed hose B side
and fuel hose B
Fuel tank unit:
Fuel feed line, Tokai Orange 0.4 in. (9.5 mm)
fuel tank unit side
Fuel tank unit:
Fuel feed line, Tokai Green 0.2 in. (6.3 mm)
fuel line side
EVAP canister:
Tokai Orange 0.4 in. (9.5 mm)
fuel vapor line
Fuel tank unit:
Fuel feed neck 1.1 in. (28.55
Tokai Grey
tube (SULEV mm)
model)
Fuel tank unit:
Fuel tank vapor 0.5 in. (11.8
Tokai Natural
recirculation tube mm)
(SULEV model)
Fuel tank unit:
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Fuel feed tank

vapor signal tube,
Tokai Green 0.2 in. (6.3 mm)
fuel tank side
(SULEV model)
Fuel tank unit:
Fuel tank vapor
signal tube, fuel Tokai Blue/green 0.3 in. (8 mm)
fill side (SULEV
model)
FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING REMOVAL
NOTE: Before you work on the fuel lines and fittings, read the
"Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Precautions" (see FUEL
LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING PRECAUTIONS ).

2. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting (A) for dirt, and clean it if needed.
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Fig. 42: Checking Fuel Quick-Connect Fitting For Dirt (Non-SULEV

Model - 1 Of 2)
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Fig. 43: Checking Fuel Quick-Connect Fitting For Dirt (Non-SULEV

Model - 2 Of 2)
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Fig. 44: Checking Fuel Quick-Connect Fitting For Dirt (SULEV Model)
3. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting. Hold the connector
(A) with one hand, and squeeze the retainer tabs (B) with the other hand to
release them from the locking tabs (C). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the line (D) or other parts.

Do not use tools.
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one.
Fig. 45: Holding Connector And Squeezing Retainer Tabs To Release

From Locking Tabs
4. Check the contact area (A) of the line (B) for dirt or damage.
If it is dirty, clean it.
If it is rusty or damaged, replace the fuel pump, fuel filter, or fuel feed
line.
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5. To prevent damage and keep foreign matter out, cover the disconnected
connector and line ends with plastic bags (A).
NOTE: The retainer cannot be reused once it has been

removed from the line.
Replace the retainer when:

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it is damaged.
Fig. 47: Covering Disconnected Connector And Line Ends With

Plastic Bags
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FUEL LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING INSTALLATION
NOTE: Before you work on the fuel line and fittings, read the "Fuel
Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Precautions" (see FUEL
LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING PRECAUTIONS ).
1. Check the contact area (A) of the line (B) for dirt or damage, and clean it if
needed.

2. Insert a new retainer (A) into the connector (B) if the retainer is damaged, or
after:

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replacing the fuel gauge sending unit

removing the retainer from the line.
Fig. 49: Inserting Retainer Into Connector

3. Before connecting a new fuel tube/quick-connect fitting assembly (A), remove

the old retainer from the mating line.
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Fig. 50: Connecting Fuel Tube/Quick-Connect Fitting Assembly

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Fig. 51: Connecting Fuel Tube/Quick-Connect Fitting Assembly (Non-

SULEV Model)
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Fig. 52: Connecting Fuel Tube/Quick-Connect Fitting Assembly (SULEV

Model)
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4. Align the quick-connect fittings with the line (A), and align the retainer locking
tabs (B) with the connector tabs (C), then press the quick-connect fittings onto
the line until both retainer pawls lock with a clicking sound.
NOTE: If it is hard to connect, put a small amount of new

engine oil on the line end.
Fig. 53: Connection With New Retainer

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Fig. 54: Reconnection To Existing Retainer

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Fig. 55: Connection To New Fuel Line

5. When you reconnect the connector with the old retainer, make sure the
connection is secure and the tabs (A) are firmly locked into place; check
visually and also by pulling the connector (B). When you replace the fuel line
with a new one, make sure you remove the ring pull (C) upwards after you
confirm the connection is secure.
NOTE: Before you remove the ring pull, make sure the fuel line
connection is secure. If the connection is not secure,
the ring pull could break when you try to remove it.
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Fig. 56: Reconnecting To Existing Retainer

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Fig. 57: Connecting To New Fuel Line

6. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery, and turn the ignition switch ON
(II). The fuel pump will run for about 2 seconds, and fuel pressure will rise.
Repeat this two or three times, and check that there is no leakage in the fuel
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supply system.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
NON-SULEV MODEL
1. Remove the fuel tank unit (see Non-SULEV model ).

2. Remove the clip (A).
Fig. 58: Removing Clip

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4. Install the regulator in the reverse order of removal with new O-rings (C).
Make sure the regulator is installed with the drain hole (D) facing down.
SULEV MODEL
1. Remove the fuel tank unit (see SULEV model ).

2. Remove the holder (A).
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Fig. 59: Removing Holder

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4. Install the regulator in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C).
NOTE: Coat the O-ring with clean engine oil.
FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
The fuel filter should be replaced whenever the fuel pressure drops below the
specified value (see FUEL PRESSURE RELIEVING ), after making sure that the
fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator are OK.
2. Remove the fuel filter set (A).
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Fig. 60: Removing Fuel Filter Set (Non-SULEV Model)

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Fig. 61: Removing Fuel Filter Set (SULEV Model)


the connectors (B) are firmly locked into place.
When installing the fuel gauge sending unit (C), make sure the connection
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is secure and the connector is firmly locked into place. Be careful not to
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (D) and
new O-rings (E). When installing the fuel tank unit, align the marks on the unit
and the fuel tank (see FUEL TANK REPLACEMENT ).
NOTE: For non-SULEV models, replace the fuel tank unit

locknut and base gasket as a set.
FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT
Fuel sender wrench 07AAA-S0XA100

NON-SULEV MODEL

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Fig. 62: Removing Access Panel From Floor


7. Using the special tool, loosen the fuel tank unit locknut (A).
Fig. 63: Loosening Fuel Tank Unit Locknut

8. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel tank unit.
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Fig. 64: Removing Locknut And Fuel Tank Unit

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9. Remove the fuel filter (B), the fuel gauge sending unit (C), the case (D), the
wire harness (E), and the fuel pressure regulator (F).
Make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (G) is firmly
connected to the fuel pump (H).
the connectors (I) are firmly locked into place.
11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (J), new
locknut, and new O-rings (K). When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks (L) on the unit (M) and the fuel tank (N).
Fuel sender wrench 07AAA-S0XA100

SULEV MODEL

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7. Remove the fuel tank unit (A).
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Fig. 66: Removing Fuel Tank Unit

8. Remove the strainer case (A), the fuel gauge sending unit (B), and the wire
harness (C).
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Fig. 67: Removing Strainer Case, Fuel Gauge Sending Unit And Wire
Harness
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9. Install the part in the reverse order of removal with a new base gasket (D) and
new O-ring (E), then check these items:
Make sure the connection is secure and the suction filter (F) is firmly
connected to the fuel pump (G).
the connectors (H) are firmly locked into place.
FUEL TANK REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL

2. Drain the fuel tank (see FUEL TANK DRAINING ).
3. Loosen the rear wheel nuts slightly, then raise the vehicle, and make sure it is
securely supported. Remove the rear wheels.
5. SULEV model:
Remove the fuel tank covers (A).
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Fig. 68: Removing Fuel Tank Covers (SULEV Model)

6. Remove the exhaust muffler (see EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER

REPLACEMENT ).
7. Non-SULEV model:
Disconnect the fuel fill neck tube (A) and breather hose (B).
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Fig. 69: Disconnecting Fuel Fill Neck Tube And Breather Hose (Non-
SULEV Model)
8. SULEV model:
Disconnect the fuel fill neck tube (A), fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (B),
and fuel tank vapor signal tube (C).
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Fig. 70: Disconnecting Fuel Fill Neck Tube, Fuel Tank Vapor
Recirculation Tube And Fuel Tank Vapor Signal Tube (SULEV Model)
9. Disconnect the vapor line (A) from the EVAP canister (B). Then disconnect
the fuel line (C).
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Fig. 71: Disconnecting Vapor Line From EVAP Canister

10. Disconnect the wheel sensor 2P connector (A).
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Fig. 72: Disconnecting Wheel Sensor 2P Connector

11. If the vehicle has rear drum brakes, go to step 14. If it has rear disc brakes,
remove the clip (A), parking brake cable (B), two caliper bolts (C), and caliper
body (D).
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Fig. 73: Removing Clip, Parking Brake Cable, Two Caliper Bolts And
Caliper Body
12. Remove the brake hose bracket (A).
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Fig. 74: Removing Brake Hose Bracket

13. Hook the caliper body (A) on the damper spring (B), then go to step 17.
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Fig. 75: Hooking Caliper Body On Damper Spring

14. Disconnect the brake line (A) and the brake hose clip (B).
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Fig. 76: Disconnecting Brake Line And Brake Hose Clip

15. Remove the bolts (A) from the brake plate (B).
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Fig. 77: Removing Bolts From Brake Plate

16. Remove the parking brake cable (A).
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Fig. 78: Removing Parking Brake Cable

17. Remove the flange bolt (A).
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Fig. 79: Removing Flange Bolt

18. Remove the parking brake cable bracket (A).
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Fig. 80: Removing Parking Brake Cable Bracket

19. Remove the heat shield (A). Place a jack or support under the suspension
subframe. Remove the mounting bolts (B). Remove the rear suspension
subframe.
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Fig. 81: Removing Heat Shield

20. Remove the bolts (A) and the fuel tank straps (B).
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Fig. 82: Removing Bolts And Fuel Tank Straps

21. Lift the fuel tank out of the subframe.

INSTALLATION
1. Install the tank straps (A), and tighten the bolts (B).
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Fig. 83: Installing Tank Straps

2. Place a jack or support under the rear suspension subframe. Install the rear
suspension subframe, aligning the pins (A) with the holes in the rear
suspension subframe.
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Fig. 84: Aligning Pins With Holes In Rear Suspension Subframe

3. Install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

4. If equipped with drum brakes, bleed the brake system after installing the brake
hose (see BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT ). If not, go to step 5.
5. After installation, check the wheel alignment (see WHEEL ALIGNMENT ).
FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT TEST
2003-2004 MODELS
Gauges Circuit Diagram (see CIRCUIT DIAGRAM ).
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1. Do multiplex integrated control system troubleshooting test mode A (see

A ).
If DTC B1175 is indicated, go to the DTC B1175 troubleshooting (see

DTC B1175: FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT SIGNALS INPUT
ERROR ).
2. Check the No. 21 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
3. Do the gauge drive circuit check (see THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT
CHECK ).
If the fuel gauge needle sweeps from the minimum to maximum position
and then returns to minimum, the gauge is OK. Go to step 4.
If the fuel gauge needle does not sweep correctly, replace the gauge
assembly and retest.
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7. Disconnect the fuel tank unit connector (B).

8. Non-SULEV model:
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Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL
GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
9. SULEV model:
Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank (see SULEV model ).
10. Measure resistance between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the fuel tank unit
5P connector with the float at E (EMPTY), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL)
positions.
If you do not get the following readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit;
Non-SULEV model (see Non-SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV
model ).
FUEL TANK UNIT 5P CONNECTOR TERMINALS RESISTANCE

(NON-SULEV MODEL)
F 7.5 in. 1/2 4.4 in. LOW 2.0 in. E 1.0 in.
Float Position
(191.4 mm) (113.1 mm) (52.4 mm) (25.6 mm)
Resistance
19 to 21 205.5 to 215.5 487.9 to 617.1 770 to 790
(ohms)

(SULEV MODEL)
F 1.9 in. (49 1/2 5.2 in. LOW 7.6 in. E 8.6 in.
Float Position
mm) (132.4 mm) (194.1 mm) (219.7 mm)
Resistance
19 to 21 215.4 to 225.4 491.7 to 634.2 770 to 790
(ohms)
NOTE: Remove the No. 15 BACK UP (40 A) fuse from the under-
hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds after completing
troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for
the fuel gauge to indicate the correct fuel level.
Non-SULEV model
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Fig. 86: Identifying Fuel Float Position (Non-SULEV Model)

SULEV model
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Fig. 87: Identifying Fuel Float Position (SULEV Model)

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2005-2006 MODELS
Gauges Circuit Diagram; 2003-2005 models (see '03-05
MODELS ) or 2006 model (see '06 MODEL ).
1. Check the No. 21 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before
testing.
2. Do the B-CAN system diagnosis Test Mode A troubleshooting (see
A ).
If DTC B1175 or B1176 is indicated, go to the indicated DTC's

troubleshooting.
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6. Disconnect the fuel tank unit connector (B).

7. Measure voltage between fuel tank unit 5P connector terminals No. 1 and No.
2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery voltage.
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If the voltage is OK, go to step 8.

If the voltage is not as specified, check for:
- a short in the YEL/BLK wire to ground.
- an open in the YEL/BLK or BLK/WHT wire.
Fig. 89: Measuring Voltage Between Fuel Tank Unit 5P

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9. Non-SULEV model:
Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank (see FUEL PUMP/FUEL
GAUGE SENDING UNIT REPLACEMENT ).
10. SULEV model:
Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank (see SULEV model ).
11. Measure resistance between fuel tank unit 5P connector terminals No. 1 and
No. 2 with the float at E (EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL INDICATOR), 1/2
(HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions.
If you do not get the following readings, replace the fuel gauge sending unit;
Non-SULEV model (see Non-SULEV model ) or SULEV model (see SULEV
model ).

(NON-SULEV MODEL)
F 7.5 in. 1/2 4.4 in. LOW 2.0 in. E 1.0 in.
Float Position
(191.4 mm) (113.1 mm) (52.4 mm) (25.6 mm)
Resistance
19 to 21 205.5 to 215.5 487.9 to 617.1 770 to 790
(ohms)

(SULEV MODEL)
F 1.9 in. (49 1/2 5.2 in. LOW 7.6 in. E 8.6 in.
Float Position
mm) (132.4 mm) (194.1 mm) (219.7 mm)
Resistance
19 to 21 215.4 to 225.4 491.7 to 634.2 770 to 790
(ohms)
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Terminals No. 1 And No. 2 With Float At E (EMPTY), LOW (LOW
FUEL INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), And F (FULL) Positions (Non-
SULEV Model)
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Terminals No. 1 And No. 2 With Float At E (EMPTY), LOW (LOW

FUEL INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), And F (FULL) Positions
(SULEV Model)
12. Reconnect the fuel tank unit 5P connector.
13. Remove the No. 15 BACK UP (40 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box
for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it.
15. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with the float at F.
If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F" replace the gauge
assembly.
If the gauge is OK, the test is complete.
NOTE: The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom

of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF,
regardless of the fuel level.
Remove the No. 15 BACK UP (40 A) fuse from the
under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds
after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may
take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge to indicate
the correct fuel level.
LOW FUEL INDICATOR TEST
1. Do the gauge drive circuit check (see THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT
CHECK ).
If the low fuel indicator flashes, go to step 2.
If the low fuel indicator does not flash, replace the gauge control module
assembly.
2. Do the B-CAN system diagnosis Test Mode A troubleshooting (see
A ).
If any DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.
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If no DTCs are indicated, go to step 3.

3. Do the fuel gauge sending unit test; 2003-2004 models (see 2003-2004
models ) or 2005-2006 models (see 2005-2006 models ).
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Gauges - Accord (V6)
Gauges - Accord (V6)
Fig. 1: Locating Gauges Components

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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 12:25:06
Fig. 2: Locating Gauges Components (2003-05 Models)

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Fig. 3: Locating Gauges Components (2006-07 Model)

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
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Before troubleshooting the gauge system, refer to multiplex integrated control

system B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A and refer to MOTOR TEST .
The gauge control module has a self-diagnostic function.

The beeper drive circuit check
The indicator drive circuit check
The switch input test
The LCD segments check
The gauges drive circuit check (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge,
Coolant temperature gauge)
The communication line check (of the body-controller area network (B-CAN)
communication line and the fast-controller area network (F-CAN)
communication line between the gauges).
NOTE: Indicators are also controlled via the communication line.

ENTERING THE SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
Before running the self-diagnostic function, check the No. 7 (10 A) fuse and the No.
21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.

2. Turn the headlights ON.
4. Within 5 sec, turn the headlights OFF, then ON and OFF again.
5. Within 5 sec, release the trip/reset button, and then push and release the button
three times repeatedly.
NOTE: While in the self-diagnostic mode, the dash lights

brightness controller operates normally.
While in the self-diagnostic mode, the trip/reset button
is used to start The Beeper Drive Circuit Check and The
Indicator Drive Circuit Check.
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If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the

ignition switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnostic mode
ends.
Fig. 4: Trip/Reset Button Blinking Pattern

THE BEEPER DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnostic mode, the beeper sounds five times.
THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnostic mode, the following indicator lights blink:
Seat belt indicator, charging system indicator, low fuel indicator, maintenance
required indicator, security indicator, high beam indicator, lights on indicator,
malfunction indicator lamp (MIL), A/T gear position indicator, ABS indicator,
cruise main indicator and safety indicators (doors and trunk).
SWITCH INPUT CHECK
After the intermittent beeper sounds at the initial stage of the self-diagnostic
function, a beeper sounds continuously while any of the following switch inputs are
switched from OFF to ON:
Cruise control main cruise set, cruise cancel, cruise resume, TCS OFF ('03-05
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models), VSA OFF ('06-07 model), and parking brake switches.

THE LCD SEGMENT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnostic mode, the odo/trip segments and outside air
temperature segment blink five times.
THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnostic mode, the speedometer, the tachometer, the fuel
gauge, and the coolant temperature gauge needles sweep from the minimum
position to maximum position, then return to the minimum position.
NOTE: After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles
return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset
button starts the Beeper Drive Circuit Check (one beep) and
the Gauge Drive Circuit Check again.
The check cannot be started again until the gauge needles
return to the minimum position.
Fig. 5: Gauge Drive Circuit Blinking Pattern

If a needle fails to sweep or the beeper does not sound, replace the gauge control
module.
THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
While in the self-diagnostic mode, the Communication Line Check starts after the
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odo/trip LCD Segments Check. If all segments comes on, the communication line is
OK.
If the word "Error 1" is indicated, there is a malfunction in the communication

line between the gauge control module and the fast-controller area network (F-
CAN). Check for DTCs in the ECM/PCM. If no DTCs are found, go to B-CAN
System Diagnosis Test Mode A and refer to MOTOR TEST .
line between the gauge control module and the body-controller area network
(B-CAN). Go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A and refer to MOTOR
TEST .
(B-CAN) and the fast-controller area network (F-CAN). Check for DTCs in the
ECM/PCM. If no DTCs are found, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode
A and refer to MOTOR TEST .
Fig. 6: Identifying Communication Line Check

If any communication line errors are found, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis
Test Mode A and refer to MOTOR TEST .
ENDING THE SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-
diagnostic function ends.
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RESETTING THE MAINTENANCE REQUIRED INDICATOR
Blinking pattern:
BLINKING PATTERN
Miles (km) Maintenance Reminder Light
At 5,900 (9,440) to 6,100 Blinks for 10 seconds when the ignition switch is
(9,760) turned ON (II).
At 7,400 (11,840) to 7,600 Comes on and stays on while the ignition switch is
(12,160) ON (II).
HOW TO RESET
Push and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to
hold the button for more than 10 seconds or until the indicator goes out.
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
2003-05 MODELS
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Fig. 7: Gauges Circuit Diagram (2003-05 Models - 1 Of 7)

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CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
2006-07 MODEL
Fig. 14: Gauges Circuit Diagram (2006-07 Model - 1 Of 8)

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Gauges - Accord
Gauges - Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Gauges Components

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SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
Before troubleshooting the gauge system, refer to multiplex integrated control

system B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-
CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).
The gauge control module has a self-diagnostic function.
The beeper drive circuit check

The indicator drive circuit check
The switch input test
The LCD segments check
The gauges drive circuit check (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge,
Coolant temperature gauge)
The communication line check (of the body-controller area network (B-CAN)
communication line and the frame-controller area network (F-CAN)
communication line between the gauges).
NOTE: Indicators are also controlled via the communication line.

ENTERING THE SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
Before running the self-diagnostic function, check the No. 7 (10 A) fuse and the No.
21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.

2. Turn the headlights ON.
4. Within 5 sec., turn the headlights OFF, then ON and OFF again.
5. Within 5 sec., release the trip/reset button, and then push and release the button
three times repeatedly.
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NOTE: While in the self-diagnostic mode, the dash lights

brightness controller operates normally.
While in the self-diagnostic mode, the trip/reset button
is used to start the Beeper Drive Circuit Test and the
Gauge Drive Circuit Check.
If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the
ignition switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnostic mode
ends.
Fig. 4: Self-Diagnostic Function Blinking Pattern

THE BEEPER DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnostic mode, the beeper sounds five times.
THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnostic mode, the following indicator lights blink:
Seat belt indicator, charging system indicator, low fuel indicator, maintenance
required indicator, security indicator, high beam indicator, lights on indicator,
malfunction indicator lamp (MIL), A/T gear position indicator, ABS indicator,
cruise main indicator and safety indicators (doors and trunk).
SWITCH INPUT CHECK
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After the intermittent beeper sounds at the initial stage of the self-diagnostic
function, a beeper sounds continuously while any of the following switch inputs are
switched from OFF to ON:
Cruise control main cruise set, cruise cancel, cruise resume, and parking brake
switches.
THE LCD SEGMENT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnostic mode, the odo/trip segments and outside air
temperature segment blink five times.
THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnostic mode, the speedometer, the tachometer, the fuel
gauge, and the coolant temperature gauge needles sweep from the minimum
position to maximum position, then return to the minimum position.
NOTE: After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles
return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset
button starts the Beeper Drive Circuit Check (one beep) and
the Gauge Drive Circuit Check again.
The check cannot be started again until the gauge needles
return to the minimum position.
Fig. 5: Gauge Drive Circuit Check Blinking Pattern

If a needle fails to sweep or the beeper does not sound, replace the gauge control
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module.
THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
While in the self-diagnostic mode, the Communication Line Check starts after the
odo/trip LCD Segments Check. If all segments comes on, the communication line is
OK.
line between the gauge control module and the frame-controller area network
(F-CAN). Check for DTCs in the ECM/PCM. If no DTCs are found, go to B-
CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN
(B-CAN). Go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see
A ).
(B-CAN) and the frame-controller area network (F-CAN). Check for DTCs in
the ECM/PCM. If no DTCs are found, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test
Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
TEST MODE A ).
Fig. 6: Communication Line Check Display

If any communication line errors are found, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test
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Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST

MODE A ).
ENDING THE SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-
diagnostic function ends.
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
'03-05 MODELS
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Fig. 7: Identifying Gauges Circuit Diagram (03-05 Models - 1 Of 7)

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'06-07 MODELS
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Fig. 14: Identifying Gauges Circuit Diagram ('06 Models - 1 Of 8)

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GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the instrument panel (see INSTRUMENT PANEL

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ), then remove the upper column cover (see
STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
2. Place a clean shop towel (A) under the gauge control module to prevent
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scratching the steering column or dash panel.
Fig. 22: Placing Shop Towel Under Gauge Control Module

3. Remove the screws from the gauge control module (B).
4. Disconnect the 30P ('03-05 models) or 36P ('06-07 models) connector (C), and
remove the gauge control module.
5. Install the gauge control module in the reverse order of removal.
REWRITING THE ODO DATA ON A NEW GAUGE CONTROL MODULE
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NOTE: If the HDS retrieves the ODO data from the gauge
control module, the ODO value on the ODO/TRIP
display will appear as "---------", making the ODO
function unusable, and the HDS will be unable to
retrieve additional ODO values.
Rewriting is not possible on a gauge control module
that does not communicate.
Obtain a new gauge control module before starting the
rewriting process.
1. Before replacing the gauge control module, connect the HDS to the data link
connector.
2. Select GAUGES AND INDICATORS from the HDS menu display.
3. Select "ODO REWRITE" from the ADJUSTMENTS menu display, and follow
the instructions on the menu display to retrieve the ODO value.
4. Replace the gauge control module.
5. Follow the instructions on the menu display to write the new ODO value to the
new gauge control module.
OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE INDICATOR TEST
NOTE: To test the outside air temperature sensor (see OUTSIDE

AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST ).
The outside air temperature sensor for the indicator is mounted behind the front
bumper. Because of this, the temperature reading can be affected by heat reflection
from the road, engine heat, and even exhaust from the surrounding traffic. To
prevent bogus readings, the display uses a specific logic as shown.
The outside air is warmer than when the ignition switch was turned OFF (ACC or
LOCK) position:
If the ignition switch was turned OFF for less than 2 hours, the displayed
temperature when you turn the ignition switch to ON (II) stays at the ignition
switch-off temperature until the vehicle has gone faster than 18 mph (30 km/h)
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for 30 seconds, then rises 1 degree every minute until the outside air
temperature is reached.
If the ignition switch was turned OFF for 2 hours or more, the displayed
temperature when you turn the ignition switch to ON (II) the display
immediately updates to the measured outside air temperature.
The outside air is cooler than when the ignition switch was turned OFF (ACC or
LOCK) position:
If the ignition switch was turned OFF for less than 2 hours, the displayed
temperature when you turn the ignition switch to ON (II) is the ignition switch-
off temperature.
The displayed temperature then drops 1 degree every 2 seconds until the
reading matches the outside air temperature.
If the ignition switch was turned OFF for 2 hours or more, the displayed
temperature is the measured outside air temperature.
FORCED DISPLAY
You can also force the indicator to display the measured temperature.
2. Remove the No. 7 (10 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box for 60
seconds, then reinstall it.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the indicator displays "- - -" for more than 2 seconds after selecting the outside air
temperature display mode, check the climate control system for DTCs, or an open
in the LT BLU wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the climate control
unit.
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Fig. 23: Identifying Indicator Displays

CALIBRATION
NOTE: This procedure must be done after the temperature sensor

stabilizes.
The outside air temperature indicator's displayed temperature can be recalibrated +/-
3 to meet the customer's expectations.

2. Press and hold the reset select button for 10 seconds. While you continue to
hold the button, the display will scroll through temperature settings from +/-3
to -3 as shown below.
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Fig. 24: Recalibration Of Outside Air Temperature Indicator

3. When the desired correction value appears on the display, release the button,
and the recalibrated outside air temperature will be displayed.
Each time a desired correction valve is entered, it replaces the previous valve.
Example:
Incorrect value = 68F (20C)

Desired correction valve = +2F (+1C)
Correct valve = 70F (21C)
Desired correction valve = -2F (-1C)
Correct valve = 66F (19C)
NOTE: To recalibrate the display to the true temperature,

remove the outside air temperature sensor (A), but
leave it connected. Submerge the sensor and a
thermometer (B) in a container of ice water (C). Select
the calibration mode as described above, then
recalibrate the display to the true temperature.
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Fig. 25: Recalibration Of Temperature

RESETTING THE MAINTENANCE REQUIRED INDICATOR
MAINTENANCE REMINDER LIGHT BLINKING PATTERN

Miles (km) Maintenance Reminder Light
At 7,900 (12,640) to 8,100 (12,960) Blinks for 10 seconds when the ignition
switch is turned ON (II).
At 9,900 (15,840) to 11,000 (16,160) Comes on and stays on while the
ignition switch is ON (II).
HOW TO RESET
Push and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to
hold the button for more than 10 seconds.
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DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC B1152: GAUGE CONTROL MODULE EEPROM ERROR


YES - Faulty gauge control module; replace the gauge control module
(see GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Intermittent failure, the gauge control module is OK at this time.
Check pinfits and connections. If the connections are good, check the
battery condition (see BATTERY TEST ), and the charging system (see
ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
DTC B1155: GAUGE CONTROL MODULE LOST COMMUNICATION WITH THE COMBINATION
SWITCH CONTROL UNIT (HEADLIGHT SWITCH MESSAGE)

YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Intermittent failure. The gauge control system is OK at this time.
Is DTC B1007 or B1062 also indicated?
YES - Go to Combination Switch Control Unit Input Test (see

COMBINATION SWITCH CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST ).
NO - Go to Gauge Control Module Input Test.
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'03-05 models: see '03-05 MODELS

'06-07 models: see '06 MODEL
DTC B1156: GAUGE CONTROL MODULE LOST COMMUNICATION WITH THE COMBINATION
SWITCH CONTROL UNIT (WIPER SWITCH MESSAGE)

YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check for DTCs by selecting the DTCs MENU (DTCs) of the HDS.
YES - Go to Combination Switch Control Unit Input Test (see

COMBINATION SWITCH CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST ).
DTC B1157: GAUGE CONTROL MODULE LOST COMMUNICATION WITH MULTIPLEX

INTEGRATED CONTROL UNIT (MICU)

YES - Go to step 4.
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Are DTCs B1055 and B1255 also indicated?
YES - Go to Multiplex Integrated Control Unit Input Test (see MICU

INPUT TEST ).
'06-07 model: see '06 MODEL
DTC B1158: GAUGE CONTROL MODULE LOST COMMUNICATION WITH RELAY MODULE

YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check for DTCs by the DTCs MENU (DTCs) of the HDS.
Is DTC B1005 also indicated?

YES - Go to Relay Control Module Input Test (see RELAY CONTROL
'06-07 model: see '06 MODEL
DTC B1159: GAUGE CONTROL MODULE LOST COMMUNICATION (DOOR SWITCH

MESSAGE) WITH THE MULTIPLEX INTEGRATED CONTROL UNIT (MICU)

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YES - Go to step 4.
Is DTC B1057 also indicated?
YES - Go to Multiplex Integrated Control Unit Input Test (see MICU

INPUT TEST ).
DTC B1160: GAUGE CONTROL MODULE LOST COMMUNICATION WITH THE DOOR
MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT (DOOR LOCK SWITCH MESSAGE)

YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check for DTCs by the DTCs MENU (DTCs) of the HDS.
YES - Go to Door Multiplex Control Unit Input Test (see DOOR

MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST ).
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DTC B1175: FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT SIGNALS INPUT ERROR
1. Do the fuel gauge sending unit test (see FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT
TEST ).
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
2. Disconnect the 30P ('03-05 models) or 36P ('06-07 models) from the gauge
control module and the 5P connector from the fuel pump/fuel gauge sending
unit.
3. Check for continuity between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals of the gauge
control module 30P ('03-05 models) or 36P ('06-07 models) connector and No.
1 and No. 2 terminals of the fuel pump/fuel gauge sending unit 5P connector.
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Fig. 26: Checking Continuity Between No. 3 & 4 Terminals Of Gauge

Control Module 30P Connector And No. 1 & 2 Terminals Of Fuel
Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit 5P Connector ('03-05 Models)
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Fig. 27: Checking Continuity Between No.3 & 4 Terminals Of Gauge

Control Module 36P Connector And No. 1 & 2 Terminals Of Fuel
Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit 5P Connector ('06 Model)
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Repair an open in the BLK/WHT or YEL/BLK wire between the
gauge control module and fuel gauge sending unit.
4. Check for continuity between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals of the gauge
control module 30P ('03-05 models) or 36P ('06-07 models) connector and
body ground.
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Fig. 28: Checking Continuity Between No. 3 & 4 Terminals Of Gauge

Control Module 30P Connector And Body Ground ('03-05 Models)
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Fig. 29: Checking Continuity Between No. 3 &4 Terminals Of Gauge

Control Module 36P Connector And Body Ground ('06-07 Models)
YES - Repair a short in the BLK/WHT or YEL/BLK wire.

NO - Inspect all pinfits between the gauge control module and the sending
unit. If circuit integrity is good, and the problem still exist, swap gauge
control module with a known-good one. If the problem is gone, replace the
gauge control module (see GAUGE CONTROL MODULE
REPLACEMENT ).
DTC B1177: ABNORMAL BATTERY VOLTAGE (7.5 V)

3. Check the DTCs by selecting the DTCs MENU (DTCs) from the HDS.
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YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Crank the engine.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure. The gauge control module and power supply
voltage (IG1) that is supplied to the gauge control module are OK at this
time.
5. Check the battery (see BATTERY TEST ), and the charging system (see
ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Is the battery condition and the charging system normal?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Abnormal battery condition which needs a recharge or replacement,
or a charging system repair.
6. With the gauge control module 30P ('03-05 models), 36P ('06-07 models)
connector still connected, turn the ignition switch to ON, and check for voltage
between the No. 5 terminal and body ground.
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Fig. 30: Checking For Voltage Between No. 5 Terminal And Body Ground
('03-05 Models)
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Fig. 31: Checking For Voltage Between No. 5 Terminal And Body Ground
('06-07 Models)
Is there 7.5 V or more?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair an open or high resistance in the YEL wire between the
gauge control module and under-dash fuse/relay box.
7. Check for voltage between the No. 5 and No. 21 terminals.
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Fig. 32: Checking For Voltage Between No. 5 And No. 21 Terminals ('03-
05 Models)
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Fig. 33: Checking For Voltage Between No. 5 And No. 21 Terminals ('06-
07 Models)
Is there 7.5 V or more?
YES - Faulty gauge control module; Replace the gauge control module
(see GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
NO - Repair an open or high resistance in the BLK wire between the
gauge control module and ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 GENERAL INFORMATION OEM General Information - Accord
2003-07 GENERAL INFORMATION
OEM General Information - Accord
CHASSIS AND PAINT CODES

'03 4-DOOR MODEL
Vehicle Identification Number
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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 9:37:53
2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Vehicle Identification Number (2003 4-Door Model - 1 Of 2)

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Identifying Vehicle Identification Number (2003 4-Door Model - 2 Of 2)

Engine Number
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 3: Identifying Engine Number (2003 4-door Model)

Transmission Number
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 4: Identifying Transmission Number (2003 4-door Model)

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 5: Paint Code Chart (2003 4-door Model)

'03 2-DOOR MODEL
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 6: Identifying Vehicle Identification Number (2003 2-door Model - 1 Of 2)

Fig. 7: Identifying Vehicle Identification Number (2003 2-door Model - 2 Of 2)

Engine Number
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Transmission Number
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Paint Code
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'04 4-DOOR MODEL
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 11: Identifying Vehicle Identification Number (2004 4-door Model - 1 Of

2)
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2007 Honda Accord

2)
Engine Number
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Transmission Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord

2004 2-DOOR MODEL
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2007 Honda Accord
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2007 Honda Accord

2)

2)
Engine Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Transmission Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord

2005 4-DOOR MODEL
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2007 Honda Accord

2)
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2007 Honda Accord

2)
Engine Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Transmission Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord

2005 2-DOOR MODEL
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2007 Honda Accord
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2007 Honda Accord

2)

2)
Engine Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Transmission Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord

2006 4-DOOR MODEL
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2007 Honda Accord

2)
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2007 Honda Accord

2)
Engine Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Transmission Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord

2006 2-DOOR MODEL
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2007 Honda Accord
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2007 Honda Accord

2)

2)
Engine Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Transmission Number
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2007 Honda Accord

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord

2007 4-DOOR MODEL
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 41: Identifying Vehicle Identification Number

Engine Number
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 42: Identifying Engine Number

Transmission Number
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 43: Identifying Transmission Number

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 44: Identifying Paint Code

2007 2-DOOR MODEL
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Fig. 45: Identifying Vehicle Identification Number

Engine Number
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Fig. 46: Identifying Engine Number

Transmission Number
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Fig. 47: Identifying Transmission Number

Paint Code
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 48: Identifying Paint Code

IDENTIFICATION NUMBER LOCATIONS
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 49: Locating Identification Number (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 50: Locating Identification Number (2 Of 2)

DANGER/WARNING/CAUTION LABEL LOCATIONS
NOTE: FRONT PASSENGER (CHILD SEAT) AIRBAG WARNING

TAG is installed on the glove box on the U.S. model.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 51: Locating Danger/Warning/Caution Label (Passenger's Compartment)

Steering Wheel:
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 52: Locating Danger/Warning/Caution Label (Steering Wheel)

NOTE: The illustration below shows the 4-door Sedan model.
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Fig. 53: Locating Danger/Warning/Caution Label (Rear Compartment)

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Fig. 54: Locating Danger/Warning/Caution Label (1 Of 2)

Fig. 55: Locating Danger/Warning/Caution Label (2 Of 2)

UNDER-HOOD EMISSION CONTROL LABEL
EMISSION GROUP IDENTIFICATION
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Fig. 56: Example Of Emission Group Identification Label

'03 Model
KA (Federal)
THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO U.S. EPA TIER 2 BIN 5 NLEV LEV AND
CLEAN-FUEL VEHICLE REGULATIONS APPLICABLE TO 2003
MODEL YEAR NEW PASSENGER CARS AND CALIFORNIA
REGULATIONS APPLICABLE TO 2003 MODEL YEAR NEW LEV II LEV
PASSENGER CARS.
KL (California)
THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO U.S. EPA TIER 2 BIN 5 NLEV LEV AND
CFV LEV REGULATIONS APPLICABLE TO 2003 MODEL YEAR NEW
PASSENGER CARS AND CALIFORNIA REGULATIONS APPLICABLE
TO 2003 MODEL YEAR NEW LEV II SULEV PASSENGER CARS. THIS
VEHICLE HAS ALSO BEEN CERTIFIED AS A PZEV BY CALIFORNIA
AIR RESOURCES BOARD.
'04 Model
KA (Federal)
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THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO U.S. EPA TIER 2 BIN 5 AND CFV LEV
REGULATIONS APPLICABLE TO 2004 MODEL YEAR NEW
TO 2004 MODEL YEAR NEW LEV II LEV PASSENGER CARS. EPA
CERTIFICATION TEST FUEL FOR CFV: EPA UNLEADED GASOLINE.
KL (California)
AIR RESOURCES BOARD. EPA CERTIFICATION TEST FUEL FOR CFV:
EPA UNLEADED GASOLINE.
'05 Model
KA (Federal)
TO 2005 MODEL YEAR NEW LEV II LEV PASSENGER CARS. EPA
CERTIFICATION TEST FUEL FOR CFV: EPA UNLEADED GASOLINE.
KL (California)
AIR RESOURCES BOARD. EPA CERTIFICATION TEST FUEL FOR CFV:
EPA UNLEADED GASOLINE.
'06 Model
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2007 Honda Accord
KA (Federal)
THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO U.S. EPA TIER 2 BIN 5 REGULATIONS
APPLICABLE TO 2006 MODEL YEAR NEW PASSENGER CARS AND
CALIFORNIA REGULATIONS APPLICABLE TO 2006 MODEL YEAR
NEW LEV II LEV PASSENGER CARS.
KL (California)
NEW LEV II SULEV PASSENGER CARS. THIS VEHICLE HAS ALSO
BEEN CERTIFIED AS A PZEV BY CALIFORNIA AIR RESOURCE
BOARD.
'07 Model
KA (Federal)

NEW LEV II LEV PASSENGER CARS.
KL (California)
NEW LEV II SULEV PASSENGER CARS. THIS VEHICLE HAS ALSO
BEEN CERTIFIED AS A PZEV BY CALIFORNIA AIR RESOURCE
BOARD.
TEST GROUP AND EVAPORATIVE FAMILY
Test Group:
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 57: Identifying Test Group

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2007 Honda Accord
Evaporative Family:
Fig. 58: Identifying Evaporative Family Label

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2007 Honda Accord

LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS
NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as

suspension or the fuel tank from the rear of the vehicle, first
support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands.
When substantial weight is removed from the rear of the
vehicle, the center of gravity can change and cause the
vehicle to tip forward on the hoist.
FRAME HOIST
1. Position the hoist lift blocks (A), under the vehicle's front support points (B)
and rear support points (C).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 59: Positioning Hoist Lift Blocks

2. Raise the hoist a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly
supported.
3. Raise the hoist to full height, and inspect the lift points for solid contact with
the lift blocks.
SAFETY STANDS
To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as
for a frame hoist. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle
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2007 Honda Accord
that is supported only by a jack.

FLOOR JACK
1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the
rear of the vehicle, put the shift lever in reverse for manual transmission, or in
the P position for automatic transmission.
2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted.
3. Position the floor jack under the front jacking bracket (A) or rear jacking
bracket (B), center the jacking bracket in the jack lift platform (C), and jack up
the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 60: Positioning Floor Jack Under Front Jacking Bracket Or Rear
Jacking Bracket
4. Position the safety stands under the support points and adjust them so the
vehicle is level.
5. Lower the vehicle onto the stands.
TOWING
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2007 Honda Accord
If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the
vehicle behind another vehicle with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.
EMERGENCY TOWING
There are three popular methods of towing a vehicle.
Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This
is the best way of transporting the vehicle .
To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with towing hooks

(A) and tie down hook slots (B), rear towing hook (C), and rear tie down hook slots
(D).
The towing hook can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and
the tie down hook slots can be used to secure the vehicle to the truck.
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Fig. 61: Locating Towing Hooks And Tie Down Hook Slots
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Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the
tires (front or rear) and lifts them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on
the ground. This is an acceptable way of towing the vehicle.
Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends.
These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end
of the vehicle off the ground. The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously
damaged if this method of towing is attempted.
If the vehicle cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front
wheels off the ground. If due to damage, the vehicle must be towed with the front
wheels on the ground, do the following:
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Release the parking brake.

Shift the transmission in Neutral.
Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position so the steering
wheel does not lock.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Release the parking brake.

Start the engine.
Shift to D position, then to the N position.
Turn off the engine.
Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position so the steering
wheel does not lock.
It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed
below 35 mph (55 km/h).
NOTE: Improper towing preparation will damage the

transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If
you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine
(automatic transmission), the vehicle must be
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transported on a flat-bed.
Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will
cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed
to support the vehicle's weight.
PARTS MARKING
To deter vehicle theft, certain major components are marked with the vehicle
identification number (VIN). Original parts have self-adhesive labels. Replacement
body parts have generic self-adhesive labels. These labels should not be removed.
The original engine or transmission VIN plates are not transferable to the
replacement engine or transmission.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the parts marking labels during

body repair. Mask the labels before repairing the part.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Glass - Accord
Glass - Accord

2-DOOR
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Glass Component Location (2-Door)

4-DOOR
Fig. 2: Identifying Glass Component Location (4-Door)

WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT

Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive
with piano wire.
Use seat covers to avoid damaging the seat.
When replacing a broken windshield, a commercially
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available windshield cutter can be efficiently used for

cutting the adhesive. For details, follow the instructions
of the tool manufacturer.

Windshield wiper arms (see WIPER MOTOR REPLACEMENT )
Cowl covers (see COWL COVER REPLACEMENT )
Rearview mirror (see REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT )
A-pillar trim, both sides, 2-door without side curtain airbags (see A-
MODELS) ), 2-door with side curtain airbags (see A-PILLAR - WITH
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-06 MODELS) ), 4-door without side
curtain airbags (see A-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) ), 4-door with side curtain airbags (see A-
PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-06 MODELS) )
Roof moldings (see ROOF MOLDING REPLACEMENT )
2. Remove the molding (A) from the upper edge of the windshield (B). If
necessary, cut the molding with a utility knife.
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Fig. 3: Removing Molding From Upper Edge Of Windshield

3. If the old windshield is to be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the
glass and body with a grease pencil.
4. Pull down the front portion of the headliner (see HEADLINER
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ). Take care not to bend the headliner
excessively, as you may crease or break it.
5. Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and body. Using an awl,
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2007 Honda Accord
make a hole through the rubber dam and adhesive from inside the vehicle at the
corner portion of the windshield. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole,
and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
6. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing
motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to
prevent damage to the body and dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber
dam and adhesive (C) around the entire windshield.
Fig. 4: Pulling Piano Wire Back And Forth In Sawing Motion

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Fig. 5: Identifying Cutting Positions

7. Carefully remove the windshield.

8. With a knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm
(0.08 in.) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange:
Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will
interfere with proper bonding.
Remove the rubber dam and fasteners from the body.
Replace the dashboard seal with a new one.
cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the clean surface.
10. If the old windshield is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of
the old adhesive, the fasteners and the rubber dam from the windshield. Clean
the inside face and the edge of the windshield with alcohol where new adhesive
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is to be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil and
grease.
11. Attach the upper rubber dam (A), lower rubber dam (B), and clips (C) with
adhesive tape to the inside face of the windshield (D) as shown in Fig. 6:
Be sure the rubber dam and clips line up with the alignment marks (E).
Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
Rubber dams adhesive tape:
Thickness 0.16 mm (0.0063 in.)

Width 3.5 mm (0.14 in.)
Clips adhesive tape:

Width 10 mm (0.39 in.)
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Fig. 6: Attaching Upper Rubber Dam, Lower Rubber Dam And Clips
With Adhesive Tape To Inside Face Of Windshield
12. Attach the molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the upper edge of the
windshield (C). Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be
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applied.
Fig. 7: Attaching Molding With Adhesive Tape To Upper Edge Of

Windshield
13. Apply primer to the molding (A), then attach the molding upper seal (B) with
adhesive tape to the inside surface of the molding as shown below.
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Fig. 8: Applying Primer To Molding

14. Set the windshield in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A)
across the windshield and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown
below. Make sure both clips (B) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be
careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
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Fig. 9: Making Alignment Marks Across Windshield And Body With

Grease Pencil
15. Remove the windshield.

16. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer around the edge of the
windshield (A) between the dams (B) and molding (C) as shown in Fig. 10,
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then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth:

Apply glass primer to the molding.
Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not get body and glass
primer sponges mixed up.
Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive
may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the
windshield is installed.
Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
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Fig. 10: Applying Coat Of Primer Around Edge Of Windshield

Between Dams And Molding
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17. With a sponge, carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint
or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer
dry for at least 10 minutes:
Do NOT apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the
flange.
Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges.
Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
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Fig. 11: Applying Coat Of Body Primer To Exposed Paint Or Metal

Around Flange
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18. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown
below.
Fig. 12: Cutting "V" In End Of Nozzle On Adhesive Cartridge

19. Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous
delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A)
around the edge of the windshield (B) between the dams (C) and molding (D)
as shown below. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass
primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
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Fig. 13: Running Bead Of Adhesive Around Edge Of Windshield Between

Dams And Molding
20. Use suction cups to hold the windshield over the opening, align it with the
alignment marks made in step 14, and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly
push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the
way around. Do not open or close the doors until the adhesive is dry.
21. Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove
adhesive from a painted surface or the windshield, wipe with a soft shop towel
dampened with alcohol.
22. Let the adhesive dry for at least 1 hour, then spray water over the windshield
and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal
with sealant:
Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If
the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven
slowly.
Keep the windshield dry for the first hour after installation.
NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2

to 3 days:
Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up.

Twist the body excessively (such as when going in
and out of driveways at an angle or driving over
rough, uneven roads).
REAR WINDOW REPLACEMENT

Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive
with piano wire.
Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces.
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Do not damage the rear window defogger grid lines,

window antenna grid lines, and terminals.

Trunk lid
Rear shelf, 2-door (see 2-DOOR ), 4-door (see 4-DOOR )
2. Disconnect the window antenna connectors (A) and rear window defogger
connectors (B).
Fig. 14: Disconnecting Window Antenna Connectors And Rear Window

Defogger Connectors (2-Door)
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Fig. 15: Disconnecting Window Antenna Connectors And Rear Window

Defogger Connectors (4-Door)
3. If the old rear window is to be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the
glass and body with a grease pencil.
4. Pull down the rear portion of the headliner (A) by detaching the clips (B). Take
care not to bend the headliner excessively, as you may crease or break it.
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Fig. 16: Pulling Down Rear Portion Of Headliner By Detaching Clips (2-
Door)
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Fig. 17: Pulling Down Rear Portion Of Headliner By Detaching Clips (4-
Door)
5. Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the body. Using an
awl, make a hole through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at the corner
portion of the rear window. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and
wrap each end around a piece of wood.
6. Remove the molding (A) from the lower edge of the rear window (B). If
necessary, cut the molding with a utility knife.
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Fig. 18: Removing Molding From Lower Edge Of Rear Window

7. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing
motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the rear window (B) as possible to
prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around
the entire rear window.
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Fig. 19: Pulling The Piano Wire Back And Forth In Sawing Motion
Cutting positions
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Fig. 20: Identifying Cutting Positions (2-Door)

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Fig. 21: Identifying Cutting Positions (4-Door)

8. Carefully remove the rear window.

9. With a putty knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2
mm (0.08 in.) on the bonding surface around the entire rear window opening
flange:
Remove the fasteners from the body.
cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the surface.
11. If the old rear window is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of
the old adhesive, the moldings and the fasteners from the rear window. Clean
the inside face and the edge of the rear window with alcohol where new
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adhesive is to be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water,
oil and grease.
12. Attach the upper rubber dam (A), side rubber dam (B), lower rubber dam (C),
clips (D), and fasteners (E) with adhesive tape to the inside face of the rear
window (F) as shown in Fig. 22 or Fig. 23:
First attach the upper rubber dam, then attach the side rubber dams around
the edge of the rear window. Be sure top of the side rubber dam contacts
with bottom of the upper rubber dam. If necessary, cut the rubber dam.
Be sure the side rubber dam, clips, and fasteners line up with the
alignment marks (G).
Attach the lower rubber dam, around the edge of the windshield (H).
Rubber dams adhesive tape:

Clips adhesive tape:

Fasteners adhesive tape:

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Fig. 22: Attaching Upper Rubber Dam, Side Rubber Dam, Lower Rubber
Dam, Clips And Fasteners (2-Door)
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Fig. 23: Attaching Upper Rubber Dam, Side Rubber Dam, Lower Rubber
Dam, Clips And Fasteners (4-Door)
13. 4-door: Apply primer to the edge of the rear window (A) where the molding
adhesive tape will be attached as shown in Fig. 24. Attach the molding (B)
with adhesive tape (C) to the lower edge of the rear window:
Be sure both ends of the molding line up with the alignment marks (D) of
the rear window.
After installing the molding, cut the ends (E) of the molding as shown in
Fig. 24.
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Fig. 24: Applying Primer To Edge Of Rear Window (4-door)

14. Attach the fasteners (A) with adhesive tape to the rear window opening flange
(B) of the body on both sides.
Fasteners adhesive tape:

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Fig. 25: Attaching Fasteners With Adhesive Tape To Rear Window

Opening Flange Of Body (2-Door)
Fig. 26: Attaching Fasteners With Adhesive Tape To Rear Window

Opening Flange Of Body (4-Door)
15. Set the rear window in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A)
across the rear window and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown
below. Make sure both upper clips (B) are in the body holes. Be careful not to
touch the rear window where adhesive will be applied.
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Fig. 27: Identifying Alignment Marks And Upper Clips (2-Door)

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Fig. 28: Identifying Alignment Marks And Upper Clips (4-Door)

16. 2-door: Make alignment marks (C) to the rear window with a grease pencil as
shown in Fig. 27 where the molding will be installed.
17. Remove the rear window.
18. 2-door: Apply primer to the edge of the rear window (A) where the molding
adhesive tape will be attached as shown in Fig. 29. Attach the molding (B)
with adhesive tape (C) to the lower edge of the rear window:
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Be sure both ends of the molding line up with the alignment marks (D)
you made in step 16.
After installing the molding, cut the ends (E) of the molding as shown in
Fig. 29.
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Fig. 29: Applying Primer To Edge Of Rear Window

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19. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer along the edge of the rear
window (A) between the dams (B) and molding (C) as shown in Fig. 30 or Fig.
31, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth:
2-door: With the printed dots (D) on the rear window as a guide, apply the
glass primer to both lower corner portions of the rear window.
Do not apply body primer to the rear window, and do not get body and
glass primer sponges mixed up.
may not bond to the rear window properly, causing a leak after the rear
window is installed.
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Fig. 30: Applying Glass Primer Along Edge Of Rear Window Between
Dams And Molding (2-Door)
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Fig. 31: Applying Glass Primer Along Edge Of Rear Window Between
Dams And Molding (4-Door)
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flange.
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Fig. 32: Applying Light Coat Of Body Primer To Exposed Paint Or

Metal Around Flange
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below.

around the edge of the rear window (B) between the dams (C) and molding (D)
as shown in Fig. 34 for 2-door & Fig. 35 for 4-door:
2-door: With the printed dots (E) on the rear window as a guide, apply the
adhesive to both side portions of the rear window.
Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer.
Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
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Fig. 34: Running Bead Of Adhesive Around Edge Of Rear Window

Between Dams And Molding (2-Door)
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4-door
Fig. 35: Running Bead Of Adhesive Around Edge Of Rear Window

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Between Dams And Molding (4-Door)

23. Use suction cups to hold the rear window over the opening, align it with the
alignment marks you made in step 15, and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly
push on the rear window until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the
way around. Do not open or close the doors until the adhesive is dry.
NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour
until the adhesive is dry.
adhesive from a painted surface or the rear window, use a soft shop towel
dampened with alcohol.
25. After the adhesive has dried, spray water over the rear window and check for
leaks. Mar the leaking sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after
rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it
must be driven slowly.

to 3 days:

QUARTER GLASS REPLACEMENT

2-DOOR

Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surface.

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C-pillar trim, without side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR-C-PILLAR -

WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) ), with
side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR-C-PILLAR - WITH SIDE
CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-06 MODELS) )
Side trim panel, as necessary (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
- REAR SIDE AREA )
Front seat belt upper anchor (see step 6 on FRONT SEAT BELT - 2-
DOOR )
B-pillar upper trim, without side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR-B-
MODELS) ), with side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR-B-PILLAR -
WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-06 MODELS) )
2. Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the body, and along
the edge of the headliner. Using an awl, make a hole through the adhesive from
inside the vehicle. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each
end around a piece of wood.
3. Remove the front seal (A) from the front edge of the quarter glass (B). If
necessary, cut the front seal with a utility knife.
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Fig. 36: Removing Front Seal From Front Edge Of Quarter Glass
4. Carefully cut through the adhesive (A) at the rear corner portion of the quarter
glass (B) with a utility knife. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire
(C) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the
quarter glass as possible to prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut
through the adhesive around the entire quarter glass:
If the quarter glass is to be reinstalled, take care not to damage the
molding (D).
If the molding is damaged, replace the quarter glass, molding, and clips
(E) as an assembly.
If any of the clips are broken, the quarter glass can be reinstalled using
butyl tape (refer to step 9).
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Fig. 37: Cutting Adhesive At Rear Corner Portion Of Quarter Glass

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Fig. 38: Identifying Cutting Positions

5. Carefully remove the quarter glass.

6. With a putty knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2
mm (0.08 in.) on the bonding surface around the entire quarter glass opening
flange:
Remove the clips and fastener from the body.
cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
8. If the old quarter glass is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of
the old adhesive, any broken clips, and the fastener from the glass. Clean the
inside face and the edge of the glass with alcohol where new adhesive is to be
applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
9. If the old quarter glass is to be reinstalled (and either clip is broken off the
molding), apply a light coat of primer, then apply butyl tape (A) to the molding
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(B) as shown in Fig. 39. Attach the fastener (C) with adhesive tape to the
inside face of the quarter glass (D):
Be careful not to touch the quarter glass where adhesive will be applied.
Do not peel the separator off the butyl tape.
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Fig. 39: Applying Butyl Tape To Molding

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10. Attach the front seal (A) with adhesive tape (B) onto the molding (C).
Fig. 40: Attaching Front Seal With Adhesive Tape Onto Molding
11. Attach the fastener (A) to the body. Be sure the fastener lines up with the
alignment marks (B).
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Fig. 41: Attaching Fastener To Body

12. If the old quarter glass is to be reinstalled (and either clip is broken off the
molding), seal the body holes with pieces of urethane tape (A). Then set the
quarter glass upright in the opening, and make alignment marks (B) across the
quarter glass and body with a grease pencil at the three points shown below. Be
careful not to touch the quarter glass where adhesive will be applied.
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Fig. 42: Sealing Body Holes With Pieces Of Urethane Tape

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13. Remove the quarter glass.

14. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer along the edge of the front
seal (A) and molding (B) as shown in Fig. 43, then lightly wipe it off with
gauze or cheesecloth:
With the printed dots (C) on the quarter glass (D) as a guide, apply the
glass primer to the front portion of the quarter glass.
Do not apply body primer to the quarter glass, and do not get body and
glass primer sponges mixed up.
may not bond to the quarter glass properly, causing a leak after the quarter
glass is installed.
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Fig. 43: Applying Light Coat Of Glass Primer Along Edge Of Front
Seal And Molding
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flange.
Fig. 44: Applying Light Coat Of Body Primer To Exposed Paint Or

Metal Around Flange
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below.

around the edge of the front seal (B) and molding (C) as shown below. With
the glass primer (D) you applied in step 14 on the quarter glass (E) as a guide,
apply the adhesive to the upper and lower corner portions of the quarter glass.
Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a
slightly thicker bead at each corner.
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Fig. 46: Running Bead Of Adhesive Around The Edge Of The Front Seal
And Molding
18. Use suction cups (A) to hold the quarter glass (B) over the opening, align the
clips or the alignment marks (C) made in step 12, and set it down on the
adhesive. Lightly push on the quarter glass until its edges are fully seated on
the adhesive all the way around.
NOTE: Do not open or close the doors for about an hour until
the adhesive is dry.
Fig. 47: Using Suction Cups To Hold Quarter Glass Over Opening
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adhesive from a painted surface or the quarter glass, wipe with a soft shop
towel dampened with alcohol.
20. After the adhesive has dried, spray water over the quarter glass and check for
leaks. Mark the leaking areas and let the quarter glass dry, then seal with
sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after quarter glass installation.
If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.

to 3 days:

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Hood - Accord (V6)
Hood - Accord (V6)
HOOD SUPPORT STRUT REPLACEMENT

STABILUS TYPE
1. Remove the bolts securing the hood support strut (A) to the hood.
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Fig. 1: Identifying Hood Support Strut Bolts (STABILUS Type)

2. Use a flat-tip screwdriver to pry the support strut clip (B) away from the strut,
but do not remove the clip completely. While an assistant supports the hood,
pull the support strut off the pivot bolt (C). Take care not to scratch the body or
hood.
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3. Push the clip (A) into its original position, and then push the support strut (B)
onto the pivot bolt (C).
Fig. 2: Pushing Support Strut Onto Pivot Bolt (STABILUS Type)

4. Reinstall the bolts.

SHOWA TYPE ('03-05 MODELS)
1. While an assistant supports the hood, remove the pivot bolt (A) and hood side
bolts, then remove the support strut (B). Take care not to scratch the body or
hood.
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Fig. 3: Identifying Pivot Bolt & Hood Side Bolts (SHOWA Type)
2. Install the pivot bolt first, and then install the hood side bolts.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Hood - Accord
Hood - Accord
ADJUSTMENT
1. Slightly loosen each hood hinge bolt.

2. Adjust the hood (A) alignment in this sequence.
Adjust the hood right and left, as well as forward and rearward, by using
the elongated holes on the hood hinges (B).
Turn the hood edge cushions (C), as necessary, to make the hood fit flush
with the body at the front and side edges.
Fig. 1: Adjusting Hood Alignment

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3. Remove the front bulkhead cover (see step 1 in FRONT GRILLE

REPLACEMENT ), and release the upper portion of the hood latch cover (D)
as necessary. Adjust the hood latch (E) to obtain the proper height at the
forward edge, and move the hood latch right or left until the striker (F) is
centered in the hood latch.
4. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
5. Check that the hood opens properly and closes securely.
6. Apply touch-up paint to the hinge mounting bolts and around the hinges.
7. Apply multipurpose grease to the hood latch and hood hinge as indicated by
the arrows shown below.
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Fig. 2: Applying Multipurpose Grease To Hood Latch And Hood Hinge

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8. Reinstall the front bulkhead cover.

HOOD SEAL AND HOOD MOLDING REPLACEMENT
1. Using a clip remover, detach the clips (A, B), then remove the hood seal (C)
and hood corner seals (D).
On Canadian models; remove the hood molding (E). Take care not to scratch
the hood.
Fig. 3: Detaching Clips And Removing Hood Seal & Hood Corner Seals
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2. Install the seals in the reverse order of removal, and check the clip is damage
or stress-whitened, and if necessary replace it with new one.
HOOD INSULATOR REPLACEMENT
1. Using a clip remover, detach the clips. Release the hooks (A), then remove the
hood insulator (B). Take care not to scratch the hood.
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Fig. 4: Removing Hood Insulator

2. Install the insulator in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clip is
damaged or stress-whitened, and replace it with new one.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Horns - Accord
Horns - Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Horns Components

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 2: Identifying Horns Circuit Diagram

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HORN TEST/REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the front bulkhead cover (see FRONT GRILLE

REPLACEMENT ).
2. Disconnect the 1P connector (A) from each horn (B).
Fig. 3: Disconnecting 1P Connector From Each Horn

3. Test the horn by connecting battery power to the terminal (A) and grounding
the bracket (B). The horn should sound.
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Fig. 4: Testing Horn Connecting Battery Power To Terminal And

Grounding Bracket
4. If it fails to sound, replace it.
HORN SWITCH TEST
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1. Remove the steering column covers (see STEERING COLUMN

2. Disconnect the cable reel 5P (13P) connector (A) from the dashboard wire
harness.
( ): With cruise control
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Fig. 5: Disconnecting Cable Reel 5P (13P) Connector From Dashboard

Wire Harness
3. Using a jumper wire, connect the No. 1 terminal of the dashboard wire harness
5P (or 13P) connector to body ground.
If the horns sound, go to step 4.
If the horns don't sound, check these items:
-No. 13 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.

-Relay control module in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
-Horns (see CIRCUIT DIAGRAM ).
-An open in the wire.
4. Reconnect the cable reel 5P (13P) connector A to the dashboard wire harness.
( ): With cruise control
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Fig. 6: Reconnecting Cable Reel 5P (13P) Connector To Dashboard Wire

Harness
5. Remove the driver's airbag assembly (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG

REPLACEMENT ), and disconnect the horn switch 1P positive terminal from
the cable reel (B).
6. Using a jumper wire, connect the cable reel side 1P connector (C) to body
ground, and turn the wheel side to side.
If the horns sound, replace the driver's airbag assembly.
If the horns don't sound or sounds intermittently, replace the cable reel.
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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 HVAC Heating/Air Conditioning - Accord (V6)
2003-07 HVAC
Heating/Air Conditioning - Accord (V6)
SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) (IF HVAC MAINTENANCE IS

REQUIRED)
The Accord SRS includes a driver's airbag in the steering wheel hub, a passenger's
airbag in the dashboard above the glove box, seat belt tensioners in the front seat
belt retractors, side curtain airbags in the sides of the roof, and side airbags in the
front seat-backs. Information necessary to safely service the SRS is SRS
(SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6) .
Servicing, disassembling, or replacing these items require special precautions and
tools, and should be done only by an authorized Honda dealer.
To avoid rendering the SRS inoperative, which could lead to personal injury or
death in the event of a severe frontal or side collision, all SRS service work
must be performed by an authorized Honda dealer.
Improper service procedures, including incorrect removal and installation of
the SRS, could lead to personal injury caused by unintentional deployment of
the airbags and/or side airbags.
Do not bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side impact
sensors when the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned OFF; otherwise, the system may fail in a collision, or
the airbags may deploy.
SRS electrical connectors are identified by yellow color coding. Related
components are located in the steering column, front console, dashboard,
dashboard lower panel, in the dashboard above the glove box, in the front
seats, in the roof side, and around the floor. Do not use electrical test
equipment on these circuits.
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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 9:52:41
2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Heating/Air Conditioning Components (4-Door - 1 Of 2)

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Fig. 5: Locating Heating/Air Conditioning Components (4-Door/2-Door)

A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT
Recommended PAG oil: DENSO ND-OIL8

P/N 38897-PR7-A01AH: 120 mL(4fl.oz)
P/N 38899-PR7-A01: 40 mL (1 1/3 fl.oz)
Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the
following parts.
To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed,
and never mix it with other refrigerant oils.
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2007 Honda Accord
Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to
avoid moisture absorption.
Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if it gets
on the paint, wash it off immediately.
RECOMMENDED REFRIGERANT OIL

A/C condenser 25ml (5/6 fl.oz)
Evaporator 45 ml (1 1/2 fl.oz)
Line or Hose 10 ml (1/3 fl.oz)
Receiver/Dryer 10 ml (1/3 fl.oz)
Leakage repair 25 ml (fl.oz)
A/C compressor For A/C compressor replacement,
subtract the volume oil drained from
the removed A/C compressor from
160 ml (5 1/3 fl.oz), and drain the
calculated volume of oil from the new
A/C compressor:
160ml (5 1/3 fl.oz) - Volume of
removed A/C compressor = Volume
drain from new A/C compressor.
NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed A/C compressor,

don't drain more than 50 mL (1 2/3 fl.oz) from the new A/C
compressor.
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Fig. 6: Identifying A/C Compressor Fluid Level

4-DOOR
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Fig. 7: Identifying A/C Compressor (4-Door)

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2-DOOR
Fig. 8: Identifying A/C Compressor (2-Door)

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2007 Honda Accord

Symptom Diagnostic procedure Also chec
HVAC DTCs, re
GENE
Recirculation control motor circuit TROUBLESHOOT
Recirculation control INFORMAT
troubleshooting, refer to
doors do not change
RECIRCULATION CONTROL Blown fuse No. 30 (7.5
between Fresh and
MOTOR CIRCUIT the under-dash fuse/
Recirculate
TROUBLESHOOTING
Cleanliness and tightne
all conne
HVAC DTCs, re
GENE
Audio-HVAC display module TROUBLESHOOT
power and ground circuits INFORMAT
troubleshooting, refer to AUDIO-
Blower, heater controls, Blown fuse No. 30 (7.5
HVAC DISPLAY PANEL
and A/C do not work the under-dash fuse/
POWER AND GROUND
CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING Poor ground at G


all conne
HVAC DTCs, re

GENE
Radiator and A/C condenser fan TROUBLESHOOT
Both fans do not run at
low speed circuit troubleshooting INFORMAT
low speed with the A/C
(see RADIATOR AND A/C Blown fuse No. 9 (20
on (but the A/C
CONDENSER FAN LOW the under-hood fuse/
compressor runs with
SPEED CIRCUIT box, and No. 30 (7.5A) i
the A/C on)
TROUBLESHOOTING ) under-dash fuse/relay
Poor ground at G

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all conne
HVAC DTCs, re
GENE
The A/C condenser fan TROUBLESHOOT
does not run at high A/C condenser fan high speed INFORMAT
speed (but both fans run circuit troubleshooting (see A/C
Blown fuse No. 30 (7.5
at low speed and the CONDENSER FAN HIGH
the under-dash fuse/
A/C compressor SPEED CIRCUIT
operates with the A/C TROUBLESHOOTING )
on) Poor ground at G


all conne
Both fans do not run at Radiator and A/C condenser fan HVAC DTCs, re
high speed with the A/C high speed circuit troubleshooting GENE
on (but both fans run at (see RADIATOR AND A/C TROUBLESHOOT
low speed and the A/C CONDENSER FAN HIGH INFORMAT
compressor operates SPEED CIRCUIT Cleanliness and tightne
with the A/C on) TROUBLESHOOTING ). all conne
HVAC DTCs, re
GENE
TROUBLESHOOT
A/C compressor clutch circuit INFORMAT
The A/C compressor
clutch does not engage Blown fuse No. 12 (7.5
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
(but both fans run with the under-hood fuse/
CIRCUIT
the A/C on) box, and No. 30 (7.5A) i
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
under-dash fuse/relay
all conne
Body DTCs in test mo

of the MICS, re
***TROUBLESHOOT
- B-CAN SYST
A/C system does not A/C pressure switch circuit DIAGNOSIS TEST M
come on (both fans and troubleshooting (see A/C
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2007 Honda Accord
the A/C compressor do PRESSURE SWITCH HVAC DTCs, re

not work); heater is OK CIRCUIT GENE
TROUBLESHOOTING ). TROUBLESHOOT
INFORMATI
all conne
(II).
2. Press the recirculation button
several times and check the
button's LED. The LED
should toggle on and off as
the button is pressed.
If the LED turns on and
off, go to
Recirculation button RECIRCULATION
does not work CONTROL MOTOR
TEST .
2-door, see 2-
DOOR
4-door, see 4-
DOOR
If the LED does not turn
on or off, replace the
audio-HVAC display
panel.

(II).
2. Press the defroster button
Defroster button does the button is pressed.
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2007 Honda Accord
not work If the LED turns on and

off, go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
audio-HVAC display
panel.
(II).
2. Press the rear window
defogger button several times
and check the button's LED.
The LED should toggle on
and off as the button is
Rear window defogger
pressed.
button does not work
off, go to FUNCTION
TEST .
audio-HVAC display
panel

(II).
2. Turn the fan control dial ON.
3. Press the A/C button several
A/C button does not
times and check the button's
work
LED. The LED should toggle
on and off as the button is
pressed.
off, go to (see
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2007 Honda Accord
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
audio-HVAC display
panel.
(II).
3. Press the MAX A/C button
MAX A/C button does the button is pressed.
not work If the LED turns on and
off, go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
audio-HVAC display
panel.

(II).
2. Press the MODE (VENT)
button several times and
Mode button (VENT)
check the button's LED. The
does not work
LED should toggle on and off
as the button is pressed.
off, go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
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INFORMATION ).
audio-HVAC display
panel.
(II).
2. Press the MODE
(VENT/FLOOR) button
Mode button
(VENT/FLOOR) does
not work
off, go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
(II).
2. Press the MODE (FLOOR)
LED should toggle on and off
Mode button (FLOOR)
as the button is pressed.
does not work
off, go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
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2007 Honda Accord
(II).
2. Press the MODE
(DEFROSTER/FLOOR)
Mode button LED should toggle on and off
(DEFROSTER/FLOOR) as the button is pressed.
does not work If the LED turns on and
off, go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
(II).
2. Press the A/C button, and
then OFF button and check
the display.
If the display turns on
and off as the buttons are
pressed, and there are no
Audio-HVAC display DTCs stored,
panel will not run self- troubleshootthe
diagnosis individual symptoms.
If the display does not
respond as the buttons
are pressed, check for
loose or poor connections
at the audio-HVAC
display panel. If the
connections are OK,
replace the audio-HVAC
display panel.
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2007 Honda Accord
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
Fig. 9: Identifying Air Flow System Description (1 Of 2)

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2007 Honda Accord

The air conditioning system removes heat from the passenger compartment by
circulating refrigerant through the system.
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Fig. 11: Air Conditioning System Description

This vehicle uses HFC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant which does not contain
chlorofluorocarbons. Pay attention to the following service items:
Do not mix refrigerants CFC-12 (R-12) and HFC-134a (R-134a). They are not
compatible.
Use only the recommended polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) refrigerant oil (DENSO
ND-OIL 8) designed for the R-134a compressor. Intermixing the
recommended (PAG) refrigerant oil with any other refrigerant oil will result in
compressor failure.
All A/C system parts (compressor, discharge line, suction line, evaporator,
condenser, receiver/dryer, expansion valve, O-rings for joints) are designed for
refrigerant R-134a. Do not exchange with R-12 parts.
Use a halogen gas leak detector designed for refrigerant R-134a.
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2007 Honda Accord
R-12 and R-134a refrigerant servicing equipment are not interchangeable. Use
only a recovery/recycling/charging station that is U.L.-listed and is certified to
meet the requirements of SAE J2210to service the R-134a air conditioning
systems.
Always recover the refrigerant R-134a with an approved
recovery/recycling/charging station before disconnecting any A/C fitting.
A/C PRESSURE SWITCH
The A/C pressure switch consists of a high-low pressure switch (A/C pressure
switch A) and a middle pressure switch (A/C pressure switch B).
High-low pressure switch
If the refrigerant pressure becomes too high (due to blockage or lack of airflow
at the condenser), or too low (due to leakage), the A/C pressure switch stops
the A/C request signal to the PCM and the compressor stops operating.
Fig. 12: A/C High-low Pressure Switch Operation

Middle pressure switch

2
If the refrigerant pressure goes above or below 1,470 kPa (15.0 kgf/cm , 213
psi), the A/C pressure switch opens or closes to signal the PCM to change the
speed of the condenser fan and radiator fan (high-low).
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Fig. 13: A/C Middle Pressure Switch Operation

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AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL INPUTS AND OUTPUTS
Fig. 14: Identifying Audio-HVAC Display Panel Inputs And Outputs

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 15: Identifying Heating/Air Conditioning Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 16: Identifying Heating/Air Conditioning Circuit Diagram (2 Of 2)

RADIATOR AND A/C CONDENSER FAN LOW SPEED CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING
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2007 Honda Accord
NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if the

compressor is inoperative. Refer to the SYMPTOM
TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX.
Before performing symptom troubleshooting, check for
powertrain DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
1. Check the No. 9 (20A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 30
(7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck.
2. Remove the A/C condenser fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and
test it, refer to POWER RELAY TEST .
Is the relay OK?

YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Replace the A/C condenser fan relay.
3. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C condenser fan relay
4P socket and body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 17: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of A/C Condenser

Fan Relay 4P Socket And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C condenser fan relay 4P
socket with a jumper wire.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 18: Connecting No. 1 And No. 2 Terminals Of A/C Condenser Fan
Relay 4P Socket With Jumper Wire
Does the A/C condenser fan run?

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 13.
5. Disconnect the jumper wire.
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2007 Honda Accord

Fan Relay 4P Socket And Body Ground

YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 31.
9. Reinstall the A/C condenser fan relay.
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12. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 6 terminal of
PCM connector A (31P) and body ground with the PCM connectors connected.
Fig. 20: Measuring Voltage Between No. 6 Terminal Of PCM Connector A

(31P) And Body Ground
YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at No. 6 terminal of

PCM connector A (31P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-
good PCM, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the
original PCM, then perform the PCM idle learn procedure (see
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2007 Honda Accord
ECM/PCM IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE ).

NO - Repair open in the wire between the condenser fan relay and the
PCM.
15. Disconnect the A/C condenser fan 2P connector.
16. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then turn the A/C and blower fan switches
ON.
17. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C condenser fan 2P
connector and body ground.

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2007 Honda Accord
Fan 2P Connector And Body Ground


NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C condenser fan relay and the
A/C condenser fan.
18. Turn the A/C and fan switches OFF, then turn the ignition switch OFF.
19. Reconnect the A/C condenser fan 2P connector.
20. Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/C condenser fan 2P connector to body
ground with jumper wire.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 22: Connecting No. 1 Terminal Of A/C Condenser Fan 2P Connector

To Body Ground With Jumper Wire
21. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then turn the A/C and fan switches ON.

NO - Replace the A/C condenser fan motor.
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2007 Honda Accord

24. Remove the fan control relay from the multi-relay box, and test it (see
POWER RELAY TEST ).
Is the relay OK?

NO - Replace the fan control relay.
25. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then turn the A/C and fan switches ON.
26. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the fan control relay 5P
socket and body ground.
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Fig. 23: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of Fan Control Relay
5P Socket And Body Ground

NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C condenser fan and the fan
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control relay.
28. Disconnect the radiator fan 2P connector.
29. Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal of the fan control relay 5P
socket and the No. 2 terminal of the radiator fan 2P connector.
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Fig. 24: Checking For Continuity Between No. 4 Terminal Of Fan Control
Relay 5P Socket And No. 2 Terminal Of Radiator Fan 2P Connector
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the fan control relay and the
radiator fan.
30. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the radiator fan 2P
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Fig. 25: Checking For Continuity Between No. 1 Terminal Of Radiator

Fan 2P Connector And Body Ground
YES - Replace the radiator fan motor.

NO - Check for an open in the wire between the radiator fan and body
ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G301.
32. Remove A/C diode A from the under-hood fuse/ relay box.
33. Check for current flow in both directions between the No. 1 and No. 2
terminals of A/C diode A.
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Fig. 26: Checking For Current Flow In Both Directions Between No. 1
And No. 2 Terminals Of A/C Diode A
Is there current flow in only one direction?

NO - Replace A/C diode A.
35. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of A/C diode A 2P socket and
body ground.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 27: Measuring Voltage Between No. 2 Terminal Of A/C Diode A 2P

Socket And Body Ground

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YES - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 30 fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box and A/C diode A.
A/C CONDENSER FAN HIGH SPEED CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING

radiator fan and/or the A/C compressor is inoperative.
Refer to the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX.

INFORMATION ).
1. Check the No. 30 (7.5A)fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?

YES - Go to step 2.
2. Remove the fan control relay from the multi-relay box, and test it (see
POWER RELAY TEST ).
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Replace the fan control relay.
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 5 terminal of the fan control relay 5P
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 28: Measuring Voltage Between No. 5 Terminal Of Fan Control Relay
5P Socket And Body Ground

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 9.
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Fig. 29: Checking For Continuity Between No. 2 Terminal Of Fan Control
Relay 5P Socket And Body Ground
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YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the fan control relay and
body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G301.
7. Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
socket and the No.4 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket.
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Fig. 30: Checking For Continuity Between Terminal Of Fan Control Relay
5P Socket And Terminal Of Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket
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YES - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan relay and the
PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the fan control relay and the
radiator fan relay.
10. Remove A/C diode A from the under-hood fuse/ relay box.
11. Check for current flow in both directions between the No. 1 and No. 2
terminals of A/C diode A.
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Fig. 31: Checking For Current Flow In Both Directions Between No. 1
And No. 2 Terminals Of A/C Diode A
Is there current flow in only one direction?

NO - Replace A/C diode A.
13. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of A/C diode A 2P socket and
body ground.
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Fig. 32: Measuring Voltage Between No. 2 Terminal Of A/C Diode A 2P

Socket And Body Ground
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YES - Repair open in the wire between A/C diode A and the fan control
relay.
fuse/relay box and A/C diode A.
RADIATOR AND A/C CONDENSER FAN HIGH SPEED CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if only one

fan is inoperative, or if the A/C compressor is
inoperative. Refer to the SYMPTOM
INFORMATION ).
1. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector.

2. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 4P
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Fig. 33: Checking For Continuity Between No. 2 Terminal Of A/C

Pressure Switch 4P Connector And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the A/C pressure switch and
3. Using the backprobe set, check for continuity between the No. 14 terminal of
PCM connector E (31P) and the No. 3 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 4P
connector.
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Fig. 34: Checking For Continuity Between Terminal Of PCM Connector E

(31P) And Terminal Of A/C Pressure Switch 4P Connector
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM and the A/C pressure
switch.
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5. Turn the A/C and blower fan switches on.
6. Connect the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals of the A/C pressure switch 4P connector
with a jumper wire.
Fig. 35: Connecting No. 2 And No. 3 Terminals Of A/C Pressure Switch 4P
Connector With Jumper Wire
Does the radiator and A/C condenser fans run high speed?
YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch.

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NO - Check for loose wires or poor connections at PCM connector E

(31P) and at the A/C pressure switch 4P connector. If the connections are
good, substitute a known-good PCM, and recheck. If the
symptom/indication goes away, replace the original PCM, the perform the
PCM idle learn procedure (see ECM/PCM IDLE LEARN
PROCEDURE ).
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if the fans

are also inoperative with the A/C on. Refer to the
INFORMATION ).
1. Check the No. 12 (7.5A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 30
Are the fuses OK?

YES - Go to step 2.
2. Check the engine coolant temperature, throttle position, and idle speed (use the
HDS PGM-FI data list if possible).
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
ECT Sensor 169-194F (76-90C)
TP Sensor About 0.5 V
RPM MT: More than 750 AT: More than 730
Is the coolant temperature, throttle position, or idle speed OK?

YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Troubleshoot and repair the cause of the high engine coolant
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temperature, low idle, or excessively high throttle position sensor reading.

3. Remove the A/C compressor clutch relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box,
and test it, refer to POWER RELAY TEST .
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Replace the A/C compressor clutch relay.
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch
relay 4P socket and body ground.
Fig. 36: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of A/C Compressor

Clutch Relay 4P Socket And Body Ground
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YES - Go to step 5.
5. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C compressor clutch relay 4P
Fig. 37: Connecting No. 1 And No. 2 Terminals Of A/C Compressor

Clutch Relay 4P Socket With Jumper Wire
Does the A/C compressor clutch click?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 14.
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Clutch Relay 4P Socket And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 9.
fuse/relay box and the A/C compressor clutch relay.
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10. Reinstall the A/C compressor clutch relay.

13. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 27 terminal of
PCM connector A (31P) and body ground with the PCM connectors connected.
Fig. 39: Measuring Voltage Between No. 27 Terminal Of PCM Connector

A (31P) And Body Ground
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YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at No. 27 terminal of

PCM connector A (31P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-
good PCM, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the
original PCM then perform the PCM idle learn procedure (see ECM/PCM
IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE ).
NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C compressor clutch relay
and the PCM.
15. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch 1P connector.
16. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch
relay 4P socket and the No. 1 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch 1P
connector.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 40: Checking Continuity Between Terminal Of A/C Compressor

Clutch Relay 4P Socket And Terminal Of A/C Compressor Clutch 1P
Connector
YES - Check the A/C compressor clutch clearance, and the A/C
compressor clutch field coil (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
CHECK ). Repair as needed.
and the A/C compressor clutch.
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A/C PRESSURE SWITCH CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if any of the

following items are operative; A/C condenser fan,
radiator fan, A/C compressor, or if the heater is
inoperative. Refer to the SYMPTOM
INFORMATION ).
1. Check for body DTCs in test mode A of the MICS, refer to

A ).
Are there any DTCs indicated?
YES - Do the appropriate troubleshooting for the DTC indicated.

NO - Go to step 2.
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 4P
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Fig. 41: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of A/C Pressure

Switch 4P Connector And Body Ground
Is there 5 V or more?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the relay module and the A/C
pressure switch. If the wire is OK, replace the relay module.
6. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals of the A/C
pressure switch.
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Fig. 42: Checking For Continuity Between No. 1 And No. 4 Terminals Of
A/C Pressure Switch
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YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 16.
7. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 4P connector.
8. Disconnect audio-HVAC display panel 22P connector.
10. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of audio-HVAC display panel
Fig. 43: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of Audio-HVAC

Display Panel 22P Connector And Body Ground
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the audio-HVAC display panel and
the A/C pressure switch.
12. Measure the resistance between the No. 9 and No. 10 terminals of the audio-
HVAC display panel 22P connector.
Fig. 44: Measuring Resistance Between No. 9 And No. 10 Terminals Of

Audio-HVAC Display Panel 22P Connector
Is the resistance less than 24 kohms?

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NO - Repair cause of high resistance in the evaporator temperature circuit.
13. Reconnect the audio-HVAC display panel 22P connector.
15. Check the blower motor operation at several speeds.
Does the blower motor operate at all speeds?
YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the audio-HVAC
display panel 22P connector and at the A/C pressure switch 4P connector.
If the connections are good, substitute a known-good audio-HVAC display
panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the
original front panel assembly.
NO - Repair the problem in the blower motor circuit.
16. Check for proper A/C system pressure.
Is the pressure within specifications?

NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem.
AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, then remove the driver's
dashboard under cover, refer to DRIVER'S DASHBOARD LOWER
COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION .
2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the air mix control motor (B). Remove
the self-tapping screws and the air mix control motor from the heater unit.
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Fig. 45: Disconnecting 7P Connector From Air Mix Control Motor (4-
Door)
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal.
Make sure the pin on the motor is properly engaged with the linkage. After
installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly.
2-DOOR
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, then remove the driver's
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dashboard under cover, refer to DRIVER'S DASHBOARD LOWER

COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION .
wire harness clip (C), the self-tapping screws and the air mix control motor
from the heater unit.
Fig. 46: Disconnecting 5P Connector From Air Mix Control Motor (2-
Door)
MODE CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT
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4-DOOR
1. Open the glove box. Remove the damper from the glove box, then release the
glove box stops and let the glove box hang down, refer to GLOVE BOX
2. Remove the relays from the bracket.
Fig. 47: Removing Relays From Bracket (4-Door)

3. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove the
self-tapping screws and the mode control motor from the heater unit.
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Fig. 48: Disconnecting 7P Connector From Mode Control Motor (4-Door)

After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly.

2-DOOR
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3. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove
the self-tapping screws and the mode control motor from the heater unit.
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Fig. 50: Disconnecting 10P Connector From Mode Control Motor (2-
Door)

After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly.
RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
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3. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the recirculation control motor (B).
Remove the self-tapping screws and the recirculation control motor from the
blower unit.
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Fig. 52: Disconnecting 7P Connector From Recirculation Control Motor

(4-Door)
2-DOOR
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blower unit.
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Fig. 54: Disconnecting 5P Connector From Recirculation Control Motor

(2-Door)

EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
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3. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor (B),
then remove the connector clip (C). Remove the self-tapping screw, and
carefully pull out the evaporator temperature sensor.
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Fig. 56: Disconnecting 2P Connector From Evaporator Temperature

Sensor (4-Door)
4. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal.

2-DOOR
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Sensor (2-Door)

BLOWER UNIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
4-DOOR
1. Remove the glove box, refer to GLOVE BOX

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION , passenger's dashboard lower cover, refer to
DRIVER'S DASHBOARD LOWER COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION and the passenger's kick panel, refer to TRIM
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - DOOR AREA .
2. Remove the connector clips (A), the wire harness clip (B), and bolt. Cut the
plastic cross brace (C) in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the
area shown. Retain these parts to be reinstalled later.
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Fig. 59: Removing Connector Clips, Wire Harness Clip And Bolt (4-Door)
3. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the blower motor and the recirculation
control motor, then remove the wire harness clips (B) and the connector clip
(C). Remove the mounting nuts, the mounting bolts and the blower unit (D).
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Fig. 60: Disconnecting Connectors From Blower Motor And Recirculation

Control Motor (4-Door)
4. Install the unit in the reverse order of removal.
Make sure that there is no air leakage.

2-DOOR
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1. Remove the glove box, refer to GLOVE BOX

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION , passenger's dashboard lower cover, refer to
DRIVER'S DASHBOARD LOWER COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION and the passenger's kick panel, refer to TRIM
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - DOOR AREA .
area shown in Fig. 61. Retain these parts to be reinstalled later.
Fig. 61: Removing Connector Clips, Wire Harness Clip And Bolt (2-Door)
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3. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the blower motor and the recirculation
control motor, then remove the wire harness clip (B) and the connector clip
(C). Remove the mounting nuts, the mounting bolts and the blower unit (D).
Fig. 62: Disconnecting Connectors From Blower Motor And Recirculation


EVAPORATOR CORE REPLACEMENT
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4-DOOR
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/ charging station, refer to

REFRIGERANT RECOVERY .
2. Remove the bolt, then disconnect the suction line (A) and the receiver line (B)
from the evaporator core.
Fig. 63: Disconnecting Suction Line And Receiver Line From Evaporator
Core (4-door)
3. Remove the blower unit (see BLOWER UNIT REMOVAL AND
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INSTALLATION ).
4. Remove the evaporator temperature sensor (see EVAPORATOR
TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT ).
5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the power transistor, then remove the wire
harness clip (B), the connector clip (C), the self-tapping screws, and the
expansion valve cover (D).
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Fig. 64: Disconnecting Connector From Power Transistor (4-door)

6. Carefully pull out the evaporator core (A) and the plate (B) without bending
the pipes.
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Fig. 65: Pulling Out Evaporator Core And Plate (4-door)

7. Install the core in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
If you're installing a new evaporator core, add refrigerant oil (DENSO
ND-OIL 8), refer to A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT ).
Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of
refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for
HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal
it to avoid moisture absorption.
Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if
the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately.
Charge the system, refer to SYSTEM CHARGING .
2-DOOR
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station, refer to

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Fig. 66: Disconnecting Suction Line And Receiver Line From Evaporator
Core (2-door)
3. Remove the blower unit (see BLOWER UNIT REMOVAL AND

INSTALLATION).
5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the power transistor, then remove the wire
harness clip (B), the self-tapping screws, and the expansion valve cover (C).
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Fig. 67: Disconnecting Connector From Power Transistor (2-door)

6. Carefully pull out the evaporator core without bending the pipes.
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Fig. 68: Pulling Out Evaporator Core (2-door)

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ND-OIL 8), refer to A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT .

HEATER UNIT/CORE REPLACEMENT
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations,
refer to COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX and the precautions and procedures,
refer to PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES before performing repairs of
service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio and the navigation system,
then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
3. With air conditioning; disconnect the suction and receiver lines from the
evaporator core.
4. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then disconnect the heater
valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve arm to the
fully opened position as shown.
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Fig. 69: Disconnecting Heater Valve Cable From Heater Valve Arm
5. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator, refer to
COOLANT CHECK .
6. Slide the hose clamps (A) back, then disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and
the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater unit. Engine coolant will run out
when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to
let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant
spills, rinse it off immediately.
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Fig. 70: Sliding Hose Clamps And Disconnecting Inlet & Outlet Heater
Hose
7. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit.
Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines and the brake lines, etc.
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Fig. 71: Removing Mounting Nut From Heater Unit

8. Remove the dashboard, refer to DASHBOARD/STEERING HANGER

BEAM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION .
9. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the air mix control motor, the evaporator
temperature sensor, the power transistor, and the recirculation control motor,
then remove the wire harness clips (B), the connector clips (C) and the wire
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harness (D).
Remove the heater ducts (E), then remove the mounting nuts and the blower-
heater unit (F).
Fig. 72: Disconnecting Connectors From Air Mix Control Motor (4-Door)
2-door
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Fig. 73: Disconnecting Connectors From Air Mix Control Motor (2-Door)
10. Remove the self-tapping screws, the evaporator temperature sensor (C) and the
joint duct A, then remove the self-tapping screws and the joint duct B (4-door).
Remove the self-tapping screws, then remove the passenger's heater outlet (D),
and the heater core cover (E). Remove the self-tapping screws and the mode
control motor (F) (2-door). Remove the self-tapping screws, the heater pipe
brackets (G), the grommets (H) and carefully pull out the heater core (I) so you
don't bend the inlet outlet pipes.
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Fig. 74: Removing Self-Tapping Screws, Evaporator Temperature Sensor

And Joint Duct A (4-Door)
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2-door

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11. Install the heater core, and the evaporator core in the reverse order of removal.
12. Install the heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose
clamps securely.
Refill the cooling system with engine coolant, refer to COOLANT
CHECK .
Adjust the heater valve cable, refer to HEATER VALVE CABLE
ADJUSTMENT .
Make sure that there is no coolant leakage.
Refer to evaporator core replacement (see step 6 in EVAPORATOR

CORE REPLACEMENT ).
Reset the power window control unit, refer to RESETTING THE
A/C COMPRESSOR REPLACEMENT
1. If the A/C compressor is marginally operable, run the engine at idle speed, and
let the air conditioning work for a few minutes, then shut the engine off.
system, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
5. Remove the ignition coil cover (see step 1 in IGNITION COIL
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ), and the alternator (see ALTERNATOR
6. Remove the A/C compressor clutch connector (A) from the A/C condenser fan
shroud (B). Disconnect the A/C condenser fan connector (C), then remove the
wire harness clip (D) from the A/C condenser fan shroud. Remove the hose (E)
from the radiator. Loosen the lower mounting bolt, then remove the upper
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mounting bolts and the A/C condenser fan shroud. Be careful not to damage
the radiator fins when removing the A/C condenser fan shroud.
Fig. 76: Removing A/C Compressor Clutch Connector From A/C

Condenser Fan Shroud
7. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch connector (A). Remove the bolt and the
nut, then disconnect the suction line (B) and discharge line (C) from the A/C
compressor. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to
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avoid moisture and dust contamination.
Fig. 77: Disconnecting A/C Compressor Clutch Connector

8. Remove the mounting bolts and the A/C compressor. Be careful not to damage
the radiator fins when removing the A/C compressor.
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Fig. 78: Removing A/C Compressor

9. Install the A/C compressor in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
If you're installing a new A/C compressor, you must calculate the amount
of refrigerant oil to be removed from it, refer to A/C REFRIGERANT
OIL REPLACEMENT .
Use refrigerant oil (DENSO ND-OIL 8) for HFC-134a DENSO piston
type A/C compressor only.
To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once
dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils.
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Be careful not to damage the radiator fins when installing the A/C
compressor, the alternator or the A/C condenser fan shroud.
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CHECK
1. Check the pressure plate for discoloration, peeling, or other damage. If there is
damage, replace the clutch set (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
OVERHAUL).
2. Check the pulley bearing play and drag by rotating the pulley by hand. Replace
the clutch set with a new one if it is noisy or has excessive play/drag (see A/C
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OVERHAUL).
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Fig. 79: Checking Pulley Bearing Play

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3. Measure the clearance between the rotor pulley (A) and the pressure plate (B)
all the way around. If the clearance is not within specified limits, remove the
pressure plate (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OVERHAUL) and add
or remove shims as needed to increase or decrease clearance.
Clearance: 0.35-0.6 mm (0.014-0.024 in.)
NOTE: The shims are available in three thicknesses: 0.1 mm,

0.3 mm and 0.5 mm.
Fig. 80: Measuring Clearance Between Rotor Pulley And Pressure Plate
4. Check resistance of the field coil. If resistance is not within specifications,
replace the field coil (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OVERHAUL).
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Fig. 81: Checking Resistance Of Field Coil

A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OVERHAUL
A/C clutch holder, Robinair 10204 or Kent-Moore J37872, or Honda Tool and
Equipment KMT-J33939, commercially available
1. Remove the center bolt (A) while holding the pressure plate with a
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commercially available A/C clutch holder (B).
Fig. 82: Removing Center Bolt

2. Remove the pressure plate (A) and shim(s) (B), taking care not to lose the shim
(s). If the clutch needs adjustment, increase or decrease the number and
thickness of shims as necessary, then reinstall the pressure plate, and recheck
its clearance (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CHECK).
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0.3 mm and 0.5 mm.
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Fig. 83: Removing Pressure Plate And Shim

3. If you are replacing the field coil, remove the snap ring (A) with snap ring
pliers, then remove the pulley (B). Be careful not to damage the pulley or the
A/C compressor.
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4. Remove the screw from the field coil ground terminal (A), then remove the
wire harness (B) and the bracket (C). Disconnect the field coil connector (D).
Remove the snap ring (E) with snap ring pliers, then remove the field coil (F).
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Be careful not to damage the field coil or the A/C compressor.

5. Reassemble the clutch in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these
items:
Install the field coil with the wire side facing down, and align the boss on
the field coil with the hole in the A/C compressor.
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Clean the pulley and A/C compressor sliding surfaces with contact cleaner
or other non-petroleum solvent.
Install new snap rings, note the installation direction, and make sure they
are fully seated in the groove.
Make sure that the pulley turns smoothly after it's reassembled.
Route and clamp the wires properly or they can be damaged by the pulley.
A/C COMPRESSOR RELIEF VALVE REPLACEMENT

2. Remove the relief valve (A) and the O-ring (B). Plug the opening to keep
foreign matter from entering the system and the A/C compressor oil from
running out.
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Fig. 86: Removing Relief Valve And O-Ring

3. Clean the mating surfaces.
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4. Replace the O-ring with a new one at the relief valve, and apply a thin coat of
refrigerant oil before installing it.
5. Remove the plug, and install and tighten the relief valve.
6. Charge the system, refer to SYSTEM CHARGING .
A/C CONDENSER REPLACEMENT
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio and the navigation system,
then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
2. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling charging station, refer to
3. Remove the front bulkhead cover .
2-door
4-door
4. Remove the battery and the battery box.

5. Remove the clips (A), then remove the air intake cover (B) and the air intake
tube or duct (C).
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Fig. 87: Removing Air Intake Cover And Air Intake Tube Or Duct
shroud (B). Disconnect the A/C condenser fan connector (C), then remove the
wire harness clip (D) from the A/C condenser fan shroud. Remove the hose (E)
from the radiator. Loosen the lower mounting bolt, then remove the upper
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mounting bolts and the A/C condenser fan shroud. Be careful not to damage
the radiator fins when removing the A/C condenser fan shroud.

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7. Remove the bolts and the radiator upper mount brackets.
Fig. 89: Removing Bolts And Radiator Upper Mount Brackets

8. Remove the bolt, then disconnect the receiver line (A) from the A/C condenser.
Disconnect the A/C pressure switch connector (B).
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Fig. 90: Disconnecting A/C Pressure Switch Connector

9. Remove the bolts from the A/C condenser.
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Fig. 91: Removing Bolts From A/C Condenser

10. Remove the nut, then disconnect the discharge line from the A/C condenser.
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Fig. 92: Disconnecting Discharge Line From A/C Condenser

11. Remove the A/C condenser by lifting it up. Be careful not to damage the
radiator and A/C condenser fins when removing the A/C condenser.
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Fig. 93: Removing A/C Condenser

12. Install the A/C condenser in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
If you're installing a new A/C condenser, add refrigerant oil (DENSO ND-
OIL 8), refer to A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT .
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Be careful not to damage the radiator or the A/C condenser fins when
installing the A/C condenser.
A/C SYSTEM TEST
PERFORMANCE TEST
WARNING: Compressed air mixed with R-134a forms a

combustible vapor.
The vapor can burn or explode causing serious
injury.
Never use compressed air to pressure test R-
134a service equipment or vehicle air
conditioning systems.
CAUTION: Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor

can irritate your eyes, nose, or throat.
Be careful when connecting service equipment.
Do not breathe refrigerant or vapor.
The performance test will help determine if the air conditioner system is operating
within specifications.
Use only service equipment that is U.L-listed and is certified to meet the
requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air
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conditioning system.
If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service.
R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning systems should not be

pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air.
Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and
lubricant manufacturers.
1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station to the high-

pressure service port and the low-pressure service port, following the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
2. Determine the relative humidity and air temperature.
4. Insert a thermometer (A) in the center vent.
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Fig. 94: Inserting Thermometer In Center Vent

5. Place a thermometer (B) near the blower unit.
6. Test conditions:
Avoid direct sunlight.
Open hood.
Open front doors.
Set the temperature control dial to Max Cool, the mode control switch to
Vent and the recirculation control switch to Recirculate.
Turn the A/C switch on and the fan switch to Max.
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Run the engine at 1,500 rpm.

No driver or passengers in vehicle.
7. After running the air conditioning for 10 minutes under the above test
conditions, read the delivery temperature from the thermometer in the center
vent, the intake temperature near the blower unit, and the high and low system
pressure from the A/C gauges.
PRESSURE TEST
Related
Test results
symptoms Probable cause Remedy
After stopping Air in system Recover, evacuate,
A/C compressor, refer to SYSTEM
pressure drops EVACUATION ,
about 196 kPa (2.0 and recharge with
2 specified amount,
kgf/cm , 28 psi)
quickly, and then refer to SYSTEM
falls gradually. CHARGING .
Discharge (high) Reduced or no Clogged A/C
Clean.

pressure airflow through condenser or Check voltage
abnormally high A/C condenser. radiator fins and fan rpm.
A/C condenser Check fan
or radiator fan direction.
not working
properly
Line to A/C Restricted flow of
condenser is refrigerant in Restricted lines.
excessively hot. system
High and low- Faulty A/C Replace the A/C
pressures are compressor compressor.
balanced soon discharge
after stopping A/C valve
compressor. Low Faulty A/C
side is higher than compressor
Discharge normal.
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pressure seal
abnormally low Outlet of Replace.
expansion valve is Faulty
Recover,
not frosted, low- expansion
evacuate, and
valve
pressure gauge recharge with
indicates vacuum Moisture in
specified
system
amount.
Expansion valve is Frozen Recover,
not frosted, and expansion evacuate, and
low-pressure line valve recharge with
is not cold. Low- (Moisture in specified
pressure gauge system) amount.
indicates vacuum. Faulty Replace the
Suction (low) expansion expansion
pressure valve valve.
abnormally low Discharge Frozen evaporator Run the fan with
temperature is A/C compressor off,
low, and the then check
airflow from vents evaporator
is restricted. temperature sensor.
Expansion valve is Clogged expansion
Clean or replace.
frosted. valve
Low-pressure hose Expansion valve Repair or replace.
and check joint are open too long
cooler than the
temperature
around evaporator.
Suction pressure Suction pressure is Excessive Recover, evacuate,
abnormally high lowered when A/C refrigerant in and recharge with
condenser is system specified amount.
cooled by water.
High and low-
pressure are Faulty gasket
equalized as soon Faulty high-

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as the A/C pressure valve

compressor is Foreign
stopped, and both Replace the A/C
particle stuck compressor.
gauges fluctuate in high-
while running.
pressure valve
Suction and Clogged A/C
discharge condenser or Clean.

pressures Reduced airflow radiator fins Check voltage
abnormally high through A/C A/C condenser and fan rpm.
condenser. or radiator fan Check fan
not working direction.
properly
Low-pressure hose Clogged or kinked Repair or replace.
and metal end low-pressure hose
areas are cooler parts
Suction and than evaporator.
discharge Temperature
pressures around expansion
abnormally low valve is too low Clogged high-
Repair or replace.
compared with pressure line
that around
receiver/dryer.
A/C compressor A/C compressor Replace the A/C
clutch is dirty. shaft seal leaking compressor.
A/C compressor Leaking around Tighten bolt(s) or
bolt(s) are dirty. bolt(s) replace A/C
compressor.
Refrigerant leaks
A/C compressor Gasket leaking Replace the A/C
gasket is wet with compressor.
oil.
Clean A/C fitting
A/C fitting is dirty. Leaking O-ring
and replace O-ring.
8. To complete the charts:

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Mark the delivery temperature along the vertical line.

Mark the intake temperature (ambient air temperature) along the bottom
line.
Draw a line straight up from the air temperature to the humidity.
Mark a point 10% above and 10% below the humidity level.
From each point, draw a horizontal line across the delivery temperature.
The delivery temperature should fall between the two lines.
Complete the low-side pressure test and high-side pressure test in the same
way.
Any measurements outside the line may indicate the need for further
inspection.
EXAMPLE OF TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE

Example Intake temperature (dry): 86F (30C) Humidity
level 70%
Intake temperature (wet): 77.9F (25.5C)
Intake pressure: 2
245 kPa (2.5 kgf/cm )
(78.3 psi)
Delivery temperature: 61.2F (16.2C)
Delivery pressure: 2
1902 kPa (19.4 kgf/cm )
(275.9 psi)
Results: Within normal range
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Fig. 95: Example Of Intake Temperature/Pressure Chart

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2003-07 HVAC Heating/Air Conditioning - Accord
2003-07 HVAC
Heating/Air Conditioning - Accord

4-DOOR
Fig. 1: Identifying Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location

(Underdash)
2-DOOR
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2007 Honda Accord

(Underdash)
4-DOOR
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(Underhood)
2-DOOR
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(Underhood)
4-DOOR/2-DOOR
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Fig. 5: Identifying Heating/Air Conditioning Component Location (Cooling

Fans)
A/C SERVICE TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS

combustible vapor.
injury.
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The air conditioning system uses HFC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant and

polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) refrigerant oil, which are not compatible with CFC-12
(R-12) refrigerant and mineral oil. Do not use R-12 refrigerant or mineral oil in this
system, and do not attempt to use R-12 servicing equipment; damage to the air
conditioning system or your servicing equipment will result. Use only service
equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210
to remove R-134a from the air conditioning system.

Always disconnect the negative cable from the battery whenever replacing air
conditioning parts.
Keep moisture and dirt out of the system. When disconnecting any lines, plug
or cap the fittings immediately; don't remove the caps or plugs until just before
you reconnect each line.
Before connecting any hose or line, apply a few drops of refrigerant oil to the
O-ring.
When tightening or loosening a fitting, use a second wrench to support the
matching fitting.
When discharging the system, use a R-134a refrigerant
recovery/recycling/charging station; don't release refrigerant into the
atmosphere.
A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT
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Recommended PAG oil: DENSO ND-OIL 8

P/N 38897-PR7-A01AH: 120 mL (4 fl.oz)
P/N 38899-PR7-A01: 40 mL (1 1/3 fl.oz)
Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the
following parts.
To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed,
and never mix it with other refrigerant oils.
Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to
avoid moisture absorption.
Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if it gets
on the paint, wash it off immediately.
RECOMMENDED REFRIGERANT OIL

A/C condenser 25 mL (5/6 fl. oz)
Evaporator 45 mL (1 1/2 fl. oz)
Line or hose 10 mL (1/3 fl. oz)
Receiver/Dryer 10 mL (1/3 fl. oz)
Leakage repair 25 mL (5/6 fl. oz)
A/C Compressor For A/C compressor replacement,
subtract the volume of oil drained
from rmoved A/C compressor from
160 mL (5 1/3 fl. oz), and drain the
calculated volumne of oil from the
new A/C compressor:
160 mL (5 1/3 fl.oz) - Volume of
removed A/C compressor = volume to
drain from new A/C compressor.
NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed A/C

compressor, don't drain more than 50 mL (1 2/3 fl.oz)
from the new A/C compressor.
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Fig. 6: Identifying A/C Compressor Fluid Level

4-DOOR
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Fig. 7: Replacing A/C Refrigerant Oil (4-Door)

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2-DOOR
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Fig. 8: Replacing A/C Refrigerant Oil (2-Door)

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HOW TO RETRIEVE A DTC
The audio-HVAC display panel has a self-diagnostic function for heating,

ventilation, and air conditioning system. To run the self-diagnostic function, do the
following:

2. Turn the fan switch OFF.
3. Set the temperature control dial on Max Cool, then push the mode control
button to select Vent.
5. Press and hold the recirculation control button.
6. While holding the button down, press the rear window defogger button five
times within 10 seconds. The recirculation indicator blinks two times, then the
self-diagnostic will begin.
If there is any problem in the system after self-diagnostic is finished, the
recirculation indicator will blink Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 1
through 6. If there are any problems in the evaporator temperature sensor
circuit, the A/C indicator will blink DTC 7 or 8.
If no DTC's are found, the indicator will not blink.
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Fig. 9: Pressing Rear Window Defogger Button

Fig. 10: Example Of DTC Indication Pattern (DTC 3)

Cancelling the Self-diagnostic Function
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF to cancel the self-diagnostic function. After
completing repair work, run the self-diagnostic function again to make sure
that there are no other malfunctions.
Max Cool Position Function
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When the mode control button is in the MAX COOL position, the audio-HVAC
display panel will automatically select the recirculation mode and turn the A/C on.
The recirculation switch and A/C switch are disabled and cannot be turned off in
this mode. If the audio-HVAC display panel fails to function as described, replace
it.
DTC (RECIRCULATION INDICATOR BLINKS)

DTC (Recirculation
Detection Item Refer To
Indicator Blinks)
(see DTC 1: AN OPEN
An open in the air mix IN THE AIR MIX
1
control motor circuit CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT )
(see DTC 2: A SHORT
A short in the air mix IN THE AIR MIX
2
control motor circuit CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT )
(see DTC 3: A
A problem in the air mix PROBLEM IN THE
3 control linkage, door, or AIR MIX CONTROL
motor LINKAGE, DOOR, OR
MOTOR )
(see DTC 4: AN OPEN
An open or short in the
OR SHORT IN THE
4 mode control motor
MODE CONTROL
circuit
MOTOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC 5: A
A problem in the mode PROBLEM IN THE
5 control linkage, doors, or MODE CONTROL
motor LINKAGE, DOORS,
OR MOTOR )
6 (see DTC 6: A
A problem in the blower PROBLEM IN THE
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motor circuit BLOWER MOTOR

CIRCUIT )
DTC (A/C INDICATOR BLINKS)

DTC (A/C Indicator
Detection Item Refer To
Blinks)
(see DTC 7: An Open in
An open in the evaporator the Evaporator
7
temperature sensor circuit Temperature Sensor
Circuit )
(see DTC 8: A Short in
A short in the evaporator the Evaporator
8
temperature sensor circuit Temperature Sensor
Circuit )
In case of multiple problems, the recirculation indicator will indicate only the DTC
with the least number of blinks.

HVAC DTCs (see
GENERAL
Recirculation control motor TROUBLESHOOTING
Recirculation
circuit troubleshooting (see INFORMATION )
control doors do
RECIRCULATION
not change Blown fuse No. 30 (7.5A)
CONTROL MOTOR
between Fresh and in the under-dash
CIRCUIT
Recirculate fuse/relay box
TROUBLESHOOTING )
of all connectors
HVAC DTCs (see

Audio-HVAC display panel GENERAL
power and ground circuit TROUBLESHOOTING
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troubleshooting (see INFORMATION )

AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY Blown fuse No. 30 (7.5A)
Blower, heater PANEL POWER AND in the under-dash
controls, and A/C GROUND CIRCUIT fuse/relay box
do not work TROUBLESHOOTING ) Poor ground at G503
of all connectors
HVAC DTCs (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
The A/C INFORMATION )
A/C condenser fan circuit
condenser fan Blown fuse No. 9 (20A)
does not run at all in the under-hood
CONDENSER FAN
(but radiator fan fuse/relay box, and No.
CIRCUIT
runs with the A/C 30 (7.5A) in the under-
TROUBLESHOOTING )
on) dash fuse/relay box
Poor ground at G201
of all connectors
HVAC DTCs (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
Radiator and A/C condenser INFORMATION )
Both fans do not fan common circuit
run with the A/C troubleshooting (see Blown fuse No. 9 (20A)
on (but the A/C RADIATOR AND A/C and No. 11 (20A) in the
compressor runs CONDENSER FAN under-hood fuse/relay
with the A/C on) COMMON CIRCUIT box, and No. 30 (7.5A) in
TROUBLESHOOTING ) the under-dash fuse/relay
box
of all connectors
HVAC DTCs (see
GENERAL
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TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION )
The A/C A/C compressor clutch Blown fuse No. 12 (7.5A)
compressor clutch circuit troubleshooting (see in the under-hood
does not engage A/C COMPRESSOR fuse/relay box, and No.
(but both fans run CLUTCH CIRCUIT 30 (7.5A) in the under-
with the A/C on) TROUBLESHOOTING ) dash fuse/relay box
of all connectors
Body DTCs in test mode
A of the MICS (see
TROUBLESHOOTING
- B-CAN SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS TEST
A/C system does MODE A )
A/C pressure switch circuit
not come on (both
troubleshooting (see A/C HVAC DTCs (see
fans and the A/C
PRESSURE SWITCH GENERAL
compressor do not
CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
work); heater is
TROUBLESHOOTING ) INFORMATION )
OK
of all connectors
Blown fuse No. 30 (7.5A)
in the under-dash
fuse/relay box
SYMPTOM AND DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE


2. Press the recirculation button several
Recirculation button does not work times and check the button's LED.
The LED should toggle on and off as
If the LED turns on and off, go
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to recirculation control motor

test, 4-door (see 4-door ) or 2-
door (see 2-door ).
If the LED does not turn on or
off, replace the audio-HVAC
display panel.
2. Press the defroster button several
times and check the button's LED.
Defroster button does not work to self-diagnostic (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
display panel.
2. Press the rear window defogger
button several times and check the
button's LED. The LED should
toggle on and off as the button is
pressed.
Rear window defogger button does
not work
to rear window defogger
FUNCTION TEST ).
display panel.
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3. Press the A/C button several times
and check the button's LED. The
LED should toggle on and off as the
button is pressed.
A/C button does not work to self-diagnostic (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
display panel.
3. Press the MAX A/C button several
times and check the button's LED.
MAX A/C button does not work If the LED turns on and off, go
to self-diagnostic (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
display panel.
2. Press the MODE (VENT) button
several times and check the button's
LED. The LED should toggle on and
off as the button is pressed.
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GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
Mode button (VENT) does not work INFORMATION ).
display panel.
2. Press the MODE (VENT/FLOOR)
button several times and check the
toggle on and off as the button is
pressed.
Mode button (VENT/FLOOR) does If the LED turns on and off, go
not work to self-diagnostic (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
display panel.

2. Press the MODE (FLOOR) button
Mode button (FLOOR) does not
work
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
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display panel.
2. Press the MODE
(DEFROSTER/FLOOR) button
Mode button
(DEFROSTER/FLOOR) does not
work to self-diagnostic (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ).
display panel.
2. Press the A/C button, and then OFF
button and check the display.
If the display turns on and off as
the buttons are pressed, there
are no DTCs stored,
Audio-HVAC display panel will not troubleshoot the individual
run self-diagnosis symptoms.
If the display does not respond
as the buttons are pressed, check
for loose or poor connections at
the audio-HVAC display panel.
If the connections are OK,
display panel.
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
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Fig. 13: Air Conditioning System Description

compatible.
compressor failure.
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meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to service the R-134a air conditioning
systems.
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL INPUTS AND OUTPUTS
Fig. 14: Identifying Audio-HVAC Display Panel Inputs And Outputs

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Fig. 15: Identifying Audio-HVAC Display Panel 22P Connector

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 16: Identifying Heating And Air Conditioning Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 17: Identifying Heating And Air Conditioning Circuit Diagram (2 Of 2)

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC CODES
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DTC CHART
DTC Description
DTC 1 An Open in the Air Mix Control Motor
Circuit
DTC 2 A Short in the Air Mix Control Motor
Circuit
DTC 3 A Problem in the Air Mix Control
Linkage, Door, or Motor
DTC 4 An Open or Short in the Mode Control
Motor Circuit
DTC 5 A Problem in the Mode Control
Linkage, Doors, or Motor
DTC 6 A Problem in the Blower Motor Circuit
DTC 7 An Open in the Evaporator
Temperature Sensor Circuit
DTC 8 A Short in the Evaporator Temperature
Sensor Circuit
DTC 1: AN OPEN IN THE AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR CIRCUIT
1. Disconnect the air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door) connector.

3. Check for continuity between the following terminals of audio-HVAC display
panel 22P connector and the air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door)
connector.
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL 22P CONNECTOR AND AIR MIX
CONTROL MOTOR 7P (4-door)
22P 7P
No. 9 No. 5
No. 13 No. 2
No. 14 No. 1
No. 17 No. 3
No. 18 No. 7
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Fig. 18: Checking Continuity Between Audio-HVAC Display Panel & Air
Mix Control Motor 7P (4-Door)
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL 22P CONNECTOR AND AIR MIX
CONTROL MOTOR 5P (4-door)
22P 5P
No. 9 No. 5
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No. 13 No. 1
No. 14 No. 2
No. 17 No. 3
No. 18 No. 4
Fig. 19: Checking Continuity Between Audio-HVAC Display Panel & Air
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Mix Control Motor 5P (2-Door)

YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at audio-HVAC display

panel 22P connector and at the air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-
door) connector. If the connections are good, test the air mix control
motor, 4-door (see 4-door ) or 2-door (see AIR MIX CONTROL
MOTOR TEST ). If the air mix control motor is OK, substitute a known-
good audio-HVAC display panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication
goes away, replace the original audio-HVAC display panel.
NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the audio-HVAC display
panel and the air mix control motor.
DTC 2: A SHORT IN THE AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR CIRCUIT
1. Disconnect the air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door) connector.

3. Check for continuity between body ground and audio-HVAC display panel
22P connector terminals No. 9, 13, 14, 17, and 18 individually.
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Fig. 20: Checking For Continuity Between Body Ground And Audio-
HVAC Display Panel 22P Connector Terminals Individually
YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the audio-
HVAC display panel and the air mix control motor.
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the same terminals for voltage.
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Fig. 21: Checking Terminals For Voltage

Is there any voltage?
YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the audio-HVAC
display panel and the air mix control motor. This short may also damage
the audio-HVAC display panel. Repair the short to power before replacing
the audio-HVAC display panel.
NO - Test the air mix control motor, 4-door (see 4-door ) or 2-door (see 2-
door ). If the air mix control motor is OK, substitute a known-good audio-
HVAC display panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away,
replace the original audio-HVAC display panel.
DTC 3: A PROBLEM IN THE AIR MIX CONTROL LINKAGE, DOOR, OR MOTOR
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1. Test the air mix control motor.

4-door (see 4-door )
2-door (see 2-door )
Is the air mix control motor OK?
YES - Substitute a known-good audio-HVAC display panel, and recheck.

If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original audio-HVAC
display panel.
NO - Replace the air mix control motor, or repair the linkage and doors.
DTC 4: AN OPEN OR SHORT IN THE MODE CONTROL MOTOR CIRCUIT
1. Disconnect the mode control motor 7P (4-door) or 10P (2-door) connector.

22P connector terminals No. 2, 3, 4, 5, 9, 11, and 12 individually.
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HVAC Display Panel 22P Connector Terminals Individually
HVAC display panel and the mode control motor.
NO - Go to step 4.
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display panel and the mode control motor. This short may also damage the
audio-HVAC display panel. Repair the short to power before replacing the
audio-HVAC display panel.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between the following
terminals of audio-HVAC display panel 22P connector and the mode control
motor 7P (4-door) or 10P (2-door) connector.
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL 22P CONNECTOR AND CONTROL
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MOTOR 7P CONNECTOR (4-DOOR)

22P 7P
No. 2 No. 6
No. 3 No. 5
No. 4 No. 4
No. 5 No. 3
No. 9 No. 7
No. 11 No. 2
No. 12 No. 1
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Fig. 24: Checking For Continuity Between Terminals Of Audio-HVAC

Display Panel 22P Connector (4-Door)
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL 22P CONNECTOR AND 10P

CONNECTOR (2-DOOR)
22P 10P
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No. 2 No. 9
No. 3 No. 8
No. 4 No. 7
No. 5 No. 6
No. 9 No. 10
No. 11 No. 2
No. 12 No. 1

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panel 22P connector and at the mode control motor 7P (4-door) or 10P (2-
door) connector. If the connections are good, test the mode control motor,
4-door (see 4-door ) or 2-door (see 2-door ). If the mode control motor is
OK, substitute a known-good audio-HVAC display panel, and recheck. If
the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original audio-HVAC
display panel.
panel and the mode control motor.
DTC 5: A PROBLEM IN THE MODE CONTROL LINKAGE, DOORS, OR MOTOR
1. Test the mode control motor, 4-door (see 4-door ) or 2-door (see 2-door ).
Is the mode control motor OK?

display panel.
NO - Replace the mode control motor, or repair the linkage and doors.
DTC 6: A PROBLEM IN THE BLOWER MOTOR CIRCUIT
Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Connect the No. 2 (4-door) or No. 1 (2-door) terminal of the blower motor 2P
connector to body ground with a jumper wire.
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Fig. 26: Connecting No. 2 Terminal Of Blower Motor Connector To Body

Ground With Jumper Wire (4-Door)
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Fig. 27: Connecting No. 1 Terminal Of Blower Motor Connector To Body

Ground With Jumper Wire (2-Door)

Does the blower motor run?
YES - Go to step 4.
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NO - Go to step 17.
6. Disconnect the power transistor 4P connector.
7. Check for continuity between the No. 2 (4-door) or No. 3 (2-door) terminal of
the power transistor 4P connector and body ground.
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Fig. 28: Checking Continuity Between No.2 Terminal & Body Ground (4-
Door)
Fig. 29: Checking Continuity Between No.3 Terminal & Body Ground (2-
Door)
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YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the power transistor and body
8. Connect the No. 2 and No. 4 (4-door) or No. 1 and No. 3 (2-door) terminals of
the power transistor 4P connector with a jumper wire.
Fig. 30: Connecting No.2 & No.4 Terminals With Jumper Wire (4-Door)
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Fig. 31: Connecting No.1 & No.3 Terminals With Jumper Wire (2-Door)
Does the blower motor run at high speed?

NO - Repair open in the BLU/BLK wire between the power transistor and
the blower motor.
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13. Check for continuity between the No. 15 and No. 16 terminals of audio-HVAC
display panel 22P connector and body ground individually.
Fig. 32: Checking For Continuity Between No. 15 And No. 16 Terminals &
Body Ground Individually
HVAC display panel and the power transistor.
NO - Go to step 14.
14. Check the continuity between the following terminals of audio-HVAC display
panel 22P connector and the power transistor 4P connector.
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AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL 22P CONNECTOR AND POWER

TRANSISTOR 4P CONNECTOR (4-DOOR)
22P 4P
No. 15 No. 3
No. 16 No. 1
Fig. 33: Checking Continuity Between 22P Connector & 4P Connector (4-
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Door)
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL 22P CONNECTOR AND POWER

TRANSISTOR 4P CONNECTOR (2-DOOR)
22P 4P
No. 15 No. 2
No. 16 No. 4
No. 4
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Fig. 34: Checking Continuity Between 22P Connector & 4P Connector (2-
Door)
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panel and the power transistor.

15. Reconnect audio-HVAC display panel 22P connector.
16. Test the power transistor (see POWER TRANSISTOR TEST ).
Is the power transistor OK?

panel 22P connector and at the power transistor 4P connector. If the
connections are good, substitute a known-good audio-HVAC display
original audio-HVAC display panel.
NO - Replace the power transistor.
18. Disconnect the blower motor 2P connector.
19. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 (4-door) or No. 2 (2-door) terminal of
the blower motor 2P connector and body ground.
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Fig. 35: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of Blower Motor &
Body Ground (4-Door)
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Fig. 36: Measuring Voltage Between No. 2 Terminal Of Blower Motor &
Body Ground (2-Door)
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YES - Replace the blower motor.

NO - Go to step 20.
21. Remove the blower motor relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it
Is the relay OK?

NO - Replace the blower motor relay.
22. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P
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Fig. 37: Measuring Voltage Between No. 2 Terminal Of Blower Motor


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fuse/relay box and the blower motor relay.
26. Check for continuity between the No. 3 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P
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Fig. 39: Checking For Continuity Between No. 3 Terminal Of Blower

Motor Relay 4P Socket And Body Ground
YES - Repair open in the WHT/BLU wire between the blower motor relay
and the blower motor.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the blower motor relay and
DTC 7: AN OPEN IN THE EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT

TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST ) and test it.
Does the evaporator temperature sensor test OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the evaporator temperature sensor.
2. Disconnect the audio-HVAC display panel 22P connector.
3. Check for continuity between the No. 10 terminal of audio-HVAC display
panel 22P connector and the No. 1 terminal of the evaporator temperature
sensor 2P connector.
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Fig. 40: Checking Continuity Between No. 10 Terminal Of 22P Connector

& No.1 Terminal Of EVAP Temp Sensor Connector
YES - Go to step 4.
the evaporator temperature sensor.
4. Check for continuity between the No. 9 terminal of audio-HVAC display panel
22P connector and the No. 2 terminal of the evaporator temperature sensor 2P
connector.
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& No.2 Terminal Of EVAP Temp Sensor Connector

panel 22P connectors and at the evaporator temperature sensor 2P
connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good audio-
the evaporator temperature sensor.
DTC 8: A SHORT IN THE EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT

TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST ) and test it.
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Is the resistance within the specifications shown on the graph in Fig. 81? .
YES - Go to step 2.
panel 22P connector and body ground.

& Body Ground
YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the audio-HVAC
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display panel and the evaporator temperature sensor.

NO - Substitute a known-good audio-HVAC display panel, and recheck. If
display panel.
RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING

Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Disconnect the recirculation control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door)
connector.
the recirculation control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door) connector and body
ground.
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Fig. 43: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of Recirculation

Control Motor & Body Ground (4-Door)
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Fig. 44: Measuring Voltage Between No.5 Terminal Of Recirculation

Control Motor & Body Ground (2-Door)
YES - Go to step 5.
fuse/relay box and the recirculation control motor.
6. Test the recirculation control motor.
4-door (see 4-door)
2-door (see 2-door) )
Is the recirculation control motor OK?

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YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Replace the recirculation control motor.
display panel 22P connector and body ground individually.
Fig. 45: Checking For Continuity Between No. 7 And No. 8 Terminals &
Body Ground Individually
HVAC display panel and the recirculation control motor.
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NO - Go to step 9.
9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the same wires for voltage.
Fig. 46: Checking Wires For Voltage

display panel and the recirculation control motor. This short may also
damage the audio-HVAC display panel. Repair the short to power before
replacing the audio-HVAC display panel.
NO - Go to step 10.
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panel 22P connector and the recirculation control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-
door) connector.
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL 22P CONNECTOR AND

RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR 7P (4-DOOR) CONNECTOR
22P 7P
No. 7 No. 7
No. 8 No. 5
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AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL 22P CONNECTOR AND
RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR 5P (2-DOOR) CONNECTOR
22P 5P
No. 7 No. 1
No. 8 No. 2
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panel 22P connector and at the recirculation control motor 7P (4-door) or
5P (2-door) connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-
panel and the recirculation control motor.
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL POWER AND GROUND CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 20 terminal of audio-HVAC display
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Display Panel Connector & Body Ground

YES - Go to step 5.
fuse/relay box and the audio-HVAC display panel.
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Fig. 50: Checking For Continuity Between No. 22 Terminal Of Audio-

HVAC Display Panel Connector & Body Ground

panel 22P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good
audio-HVAC display panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes
away, replace the original audio-HVAC display panel.
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the audio-HVAC display
panel and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G503.
A/C CONDENSER FAN CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
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NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if the radiator

fan and/or the A/C compressor is inoperative. Refer to
Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Remove the A/C condenser fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and
test it (see POWER RELAY TEST ).
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Replace the A/C condenser fan relay.
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Fan Relay & Body Ground
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C condenser fan relay 4P
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Fig. 52: Connecting No. 1 And No. 2 Terminals Of A/C Condenser Fan
Relay 4P Socket With Jumper Wire

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 8.
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Fan Relay And Body Ground
YES - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.

fuse/relay box and the A/C condenser fan relay.
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9. Disconnect the A/C condenser fan 2P connector.

10. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C condenser fan
relay 4P socket and the No. 2 terminal of the A/C condenser fan 2P connector.

Condenser Fan Relay 4P Socket & 2P Socket
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C condenser fan relay and the
A/C condenser fan.
11. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C condenser fan 2P

Condenser Fan 2P Connector And Body Ground
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YES - Replace the A/C condenser fan motor.

NO - Check for an open in the wire between the A/C condenser fan and
RADIATOR AND A/C CONDENSER FAN COMMON CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if only one

fan is inoperative, or if the A/C compressor is
inoperative. Refer to SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING
INDEX.
INFORMATION ).
1. Check the No. 9 (20A) and No. 11 (20A) fuses in the under-hood fuse/relay
box, and the No. 30 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Remove the A/C condenser fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
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Fan Relay & Body Ground
YES - Go to step 5.
fuse/relay box and the A/C condenser fan relay.
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7. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF, and the engine coolant temperature is below
199F (93C).
9. Using a backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 12 terminal of
ECM/PCM connector E (31P) and body ground with the ECM/PCM
connectors connected.
Fig. 57: Measuring Voltage Between No. 12 Terminal Of ECM/PCM

Connector E (31P) And Body Ground

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YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at terminal E12 of the
ECM/PCM connector E (31P). If the connections are good, substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes
away, replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan relay, the A/C
condenser fan relay, and the ECM/PCM.
NOTE: After replacing the ECM/PCM, do the following

items:
ECM/PCM idle learn procedure (see ECM/PCM

IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE ).
Reset the power window control unit (see
RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL
UNIT ).
Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio and
navigation system, then enter the customer's
radio station presets.
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if the fans

are also inoperative. Refer to SYMPTOM
INFORMATION ).
1. Check the No. 12 (7.5A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 30
Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
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2. Check the engine coolant temperature, throttle position, and idle speed (use the
HDS PGM-FI data list if possible).
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
ECT Sensor 169-194F (76-90C)
TPS About 0.5
More than 700 AT
RPM MT
More than 800
Is the coolant temperature, throttle position, and idle speed OK?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Troubleshoot and repair the cause of the high engine coolant
temperature, low idle, or excessively high throttle position sensor reading.
3. Remove the A/C compressor clutch relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box,
and test it (see POWER RELAY TEST ).
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Replace the A/C compressor clutch relay.
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Clutch Relay & Body Ground
YES - Go to step 5.
5. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C compressor clutch relay 4P
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Fig. 59: Connecting No. 1 And No. 2 Terminals Of A/C Compressor

Clutch Relay With Jumper Wire
Does the A/C compressor clutch click ?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step 14.
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Clutch Relay & Body Ground

YES - Go to step 9.
fuse/relay box and the A/C compressor clutch relay.
10. Reinstall the A/C compressor clutch relay.
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13. Using a backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 18 terminal of
ECM/PCM connector E (31P) and body ground with the ECM/PCM
Fig. 61: Measuring Voltage Between No. 18 Terminal Of ECM/PCM

Connector E (31P) & Body Ground
YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at terminal E18 of the
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ECM/PCM connector E (31P). If the connections are good, substitute a

known-good ECM/PCM, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes
away, replace the original ECM/PCM.
and the ECM/PCM.
15. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch 1P connector.
16. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch
relay 4P socket and the No. 1 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch 1P
connector.
Fig. 62: Checking Continuity Between No. 2 Terminal Of A/C Compressor

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Clutch Relay & No.1 Of A/C Clutch 1P Connector

YES - Check the A/C compressor clutch clearance, and the A/C
compressor clutch field coil (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
CHECK ). Repair as needed.
and the A/C compressor clutch.

following items are operative; A/C condenser fan,
radiator fan, A/C compressor, or if the heater is
inoperative. Refer to SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING
INDEX.
INFORMATION ).
1. Check for body DTCs in test mode A of the MICS (see

A ).
Are the any DTCs indicated?

NO - Go to step 2.
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YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 13.
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pressure switch.
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A/C Pressure Switch
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 14.

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Display Panel Connector And Body Ground


HVAC display panel 22P connector.

Audio-HVAC Display Panel 22P Connector
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Is the resistance less than 24 k ohms?

panel 22P connector and at the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. If the
13. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of under-hood fuse/relay box
connector H (14P) and body ground with the under-hood fuse/relay box
Fig. 67: Measuring Voltage Between No. 2 Terminal Of Under-Hood

Fuse/Relay Box Connector & Body Ground
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YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and
NO - Check for loose or poor connections at the No. 2 terminal of the
under-hood fuse/relay box. If the connections are OK, replace the under-
hood fuse/relay box.

AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR TEST
4-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the air mix control motor.
NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the air mix

control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions
carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the air mix control motor, and
ground the No. 2 terminal; the air mix control motor should run, and stop at
Max Cool. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the air mix control motor
should run, and stop at Max Hot.
3. If the air mix control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the air
mix control linkage and door for smooth movement.
If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the air mix control motor.
If the linkage or door sticks or binds, repair them as needed.
If the air mix control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
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Fig. 68: Checking Air Mix Control Motor

4. Measure the resistance between the No. 5 and No. 7 terminals. It should be
between 4.2 to 7.8 k ohms.
5. Reconnect the air mix control motor 7P connector, then turn the ignition switch
ON (II).
6. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 3 and No. 5
terminals.
Max Cool-about 0.5 V
Max Hot-about 4.5 V

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7. If either the resistance or voltage readings are not as specified, replace the air
mix control motor.
2-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 5P connector from the air mix control motor.
NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the air mix

carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the air mix control motor, and
ground the No. 2 terminal; the air mix control motor should run, and stop at
Max Hot. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the air mix control motor
should run, and stop at Max Cool.
3. If the air mix control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the air
mix control linkage and door for smooth movement.
If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the air mix control motor.
If the air mix control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
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Fig. 69: Checking Air Mix Control Motor

between 4.2 to 7.8 k ohms.
5. Reconnect the air mix control motor 7P connector, then turn the ignition switch
ON (II).
terminals.
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Max Hot-about 4.0 V
7. If either the resistance or voltage readings are not as specified, replace the air
mix control motor.
AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
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Fig. 70: Disconnecting Connector From Air Mix Control Motor

2. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the
motor is properly engaged with the linkage. After installation, make sure the
motor runs smoothly.
2-DOOR
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Fig. 71: Disconnecting Connector From Air Mix Control Motor

MODE CONTROL MOTOR TEST
4-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the mode control motor.
NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the mode

carefully.
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2. Connect battery power to the No. 2 terminal of the mode control motor, and
ground the No. 1 terminal; the mode control motor should run smoothly, and
stop at Vent. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the mode control motor
should run smoothly, and stop at Defrost. When the mode control motor stops
running, disconnect battery power immediately.
Fig. 72: Connecting Battery Power To No. 2 Terminal Of Mode Control

Motor And Ground No. 1 Terminal (4-Door)
3. If the mode control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the mode
control linkage and doors for smooth movement.
If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the mode control motor.
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If the linkage or doors stick or bind, repair them as needed.

If the mode control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
4. Use a digital multimeter with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 k ohms range.

With the mode control motor running as in step 2, check for continuity
between the No. 3, 4, 5 and 6 terminals and the No. 7 terminal individually.
There should be continuity for a moment at each terminal as the motor moves
past the switch's terminal.
5. If there is no continuity for a moment at each terminal, replace the mode
control motor.
2-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 10P connector from the mode control motor.
NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the mode

carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 2 terminal of the mode control motor, and
ground the No. 1 terminal; the mode control motor should run smoothly, and
stop at Vent. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the mode control motor
should run smoothly, and stop at Defrost. When the mode control motor stops
running, disconnect battery power immediately.
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Fig. 73: Connecting Battery Power To No. 2 Terminal Of Mode Control

Motor And Ground No. 1 Terminal (2-Door)
3. If the mode control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the mode
control linkage and doors for smooth movement.
If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the mode control motor.
If the mode control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
4. Use a digital multimeter with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 k ohms range.

With the mode control motor running as in step 2, check for continuity
between the No. 6, 7, 8 and 9 terminals and the No. 10 terminal individually.
There should be continuity for a moment at each terminal as the motor moves
past the switch's terminal.
5. If there is no continuity for a moment at each terminal, replace the mode
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control motor.
MODE CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
1. Open the glove box. Remove the damper from the glove box, then let the glove
box hang down (see GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove the
self-tapping screws and the mode control motor from the heater unit.
Fig. 74: Disconnecting Connector From Mode Control Motor (4-Door)

3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure
the motor runs smoothly.
2-DOOR
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2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove
the self-tapping screws and the mode control motor from the heater unit.
Fig. 75: Disconnecting Connector From Mode Control Motor (2-Door)

3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure
the motor runs smoothly.
RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR TEST
4-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the recirculation control motor.

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NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the

recirculation control motor will damage it. Follow the
instructions carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control motor,
and ground the No. 5 or No. 7 terminals; the recirculation control motor should
run smoothly. To avoid damaging the recirculation control motor, do not
reverse power and ground. Disconnect the No. 5 or No. 7 terminals from
ground; the recirculation control motor should stop at Fresh (when the No. 7
terminal is disconnected) or Recirculate (when the No. 5 terminal is
disconnected). Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time.
Fig. 76: Connecting Battery Power To No. 1 Terminal Of Recirculation

Control Motor And Ground No. 5 Or No. 7 Terminals (4-Door)
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3. If the recirculation control motor did not run in step 2., remove it, then check
the recirculation control linkage and doors for smooth movement.
If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the recirculation control
motor.
2-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 5P connector from the recirculation control motor.

recirculation control motor will damage it. Follow the
instructions carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 5 terminal of the recirculation control motor,
and ground the No. 1 or No. 2 terminals; the recirculation control motor should
run smoothly. To avoid damaging the recirculation control motor, do not
reverse power and ground. Disconnect the No. 1 or No. 2 terminals from
ground; the recirculation control motor should stop at Fresh (when the No. 1
terminal is disconnected) or Recirculate (when the No. 2 terminal is
disconnected). Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time.
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Fig. 77: Connecting Battery Power To No. 5 Terminal Of Recirculation

Control Motor & Ground No. 1 Or No. 2 (2-Door)
3. If the recirculation control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check
the recirculation control linkage and doors for smooth movement.
If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the recirculation control
motor.
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RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT

4-DOOR
blower unit.
Fig. 78: Disconnecting Connector From Recirculation Control Motor (4-

Door)
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2-DOOR
blower unit.
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Fig. 79: Disconnecting Connector From Recirculation Control Motor (2-

Door)
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST
1. First, dip the sensor in ice water (32F) (0C) and measure the resistance
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between its terminals.
Fig. 80: Measuring Resistance Between Terminals Dipping Sensor In Ice

Water
2. Next, pour warm water on the sensor and check for a change in resistance.
3. Compare the resistance readings with the specifications in the graph shown in
Fig. 81; the resistance should be within the specifications.
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Fig. 81: Resistance To Temperature Graph

EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT
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Fig. 82: Disconnecting Connector From Evaporator Temperature Sensor

(4-Door)
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Fig. 83: Disconnecting Connector From Evaporator Temperature Sensor

(2-Door)

POWER TRANSISTOR TEST
1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the power transistor.

2. Measure the resistance between the No. 3 and No. 4 (4-door) or No. 1 and No.
2 (2-door) terminals of the power transistor. It should be about 1.4-1.5 k ohms.
If the resistance is within the specifications, go to step 3.
If the resistance is not within the specifications, replace the power

transistor.
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Power Transistor (4-Door)
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Power Transistor (2-Door)
3. Carefully release the lock tab on the No. 1 (4-door) or No. 4 (2-door) terminal
(BLU/YEL) (A) in the 4P connector, then remove the terminal and insulate it
from body ground.
Fig. 86: Releasing Lock Tab No. 1 Terminal In 4P Connector (4-Door)

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Fig. 87: Releasing Lock Tab No. 4 Terminal In 4P Connector (2-Door)

4. Reconnect the 4P connector to the power transistor.
5. Supply 12 volts to the No. 1 (4-door) or No. 4 (2-door) cavity of the power
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transistor connector with a jumper wire.

6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check that the blower motor runs.
If the blower motor does not run, replace the power transistor.
If the blower motor runs, the power transistor is OK.
DUST AND POLLEN FILTER REPLACEMENT
The dust and pollen filter should be replaced every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 24
months, whichever comes first. Replace the filter more often if the airflow is less
than usual, or if the vehicle is driven in areas that have high concentrations of soot
from industry or diesel powered vehicles.
1. Open the glove box. Remove the damper from the glove box then let the glove
2. Remove the dust and pollen filter assembly from the evaporator case.
Fig. 88: Removing Dust And Pollen Filter Assembly From Evaporator
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Case (4-Door)
Fig. 89: Removing Dust And Pollen Filter Assembly From Evaporator
Case (2-Door)
3. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter.
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Fig. 90: Removing Filter From Housing

4. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal.
Make sure that there is no air leaking out of the evaporator.

BLOWER UNIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
4-DOOR
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1. Remove the glove box (see GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ),

and the passenger's kick panel (see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL
AREA ).
Fig. 91: Cutting Plastic Cross Brace With Diagonal Cutters

3. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the blower motor, and the recirculation
control motor, then remove the wire harness clip (B). Remove the mounting
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nuts, the mounting bolts and the blower unit (C).
Fig. 92: Disconnecting Connectors From Blower Motor (4-Door)


2-DOOR
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1. Remove the glove box (see GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ),

and the passenger's kick panel (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION -
DOOR AREA ).
Fig. 93: Cutting Plastic Brace With Diagonal Cutters

3. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the blower motor, and the recirculation
control motor. Remove the mounting nuts, the mounting bolts and the blower
unit (B).
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Fig. 94: Disconnecting Connectors From Blower Motor (2-Door)


BLOWER UNIT COMPONENT REPLACEMENT
Note these items when overhauling the blower unit:

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The recirculation control motor (A), blower motor cooling hose (B) (2-door),
blower motor cover (C) (2-door), the blower motor (D) and the dust and pollen
filter (E) can be replaced without removing the blower unit.
Before reassembly, make sure the recirculation control linkage and doors move
smoothly without binding.
After reassembly, make sure the recirculation control motor runs smoothly, 4-
door (see 4-door) or 2-door (see 2-door).
Fig. 95: Replacing Blower Unit Component (4-Door)

2-door:
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Fig. 96: Replacing Blower Unit Component (2-Door)

HEATER UNIT/CORE REPLACEMENT
PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing repairs of service.
3. With air conditioning; disconnect the suction and receiver lines from the
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evaporator core, 4-door (see 4-DOOR ) or 2-door (see 2-DOOR ).

valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve arm to the
fully opened position as shown in Fig. 97.
Fig. 97: Disconnecting Heater Valve Cable From Heater Valve Arm
5. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator (see
COOLANT CHECK ).
6. Slide the hose clamps (A) back, then disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and
the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater unit. Engine coolant will run out
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when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to
let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant
spills, rinse it off immediately.
Fig. 98: Disconnecting Hose Clamps

7. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit.
Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines and the brake lines, etc.
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Fig. 99: Removing Mounting Nut From Heater Unit

8. Remove the dashboard (see DASHBOARD/STEERING HANGER BEAM

9. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the air mix control motor, the evaporator
temperature sensor, the power transistor, and the recirculation control motor,
then remove the wire harness clips (B), the connector clip (C) and the wire
harness (D). Remove the heater ducts (E), then remove the mounting nuts and
the blower-heater unit (F).
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Fig. 100: Disconnecting Connectors From Air Mix Control Motor (4-
Door)
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Fig. 101: Disconnecting Connectors From Air Mix Control Motor (2-
Door)
10. Remove the self-tapping screws, the evaporator temperature sensor (C) and the
joint duct A, then remove the self-tapping screws and the joint duct B (4-door).
Remove the self-tapping screws, then remove the passenger's heater outlet (D),
and the heater core cover (E). Remove the self-tapping screws and the mode
control motor (F) (2-door). Remove the self-tapping screws, the heater pipe
brackets (G), the grommets (H) and carefully pull out the heater core (I) so you
don't bend the inlet and outlet pipes.
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11. Install the heater core and the evaporator core (with A/C) in the reverse order
of removal.
12. Install the heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose
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clamps securely.
Refill the cooling system with engine coolant (see COOLANT
CHECK ).
Adjust the heater valve cable (see HEATER VALVE CABLE
ADJUSTMENT ).
Make sure that there is no coolant leakage.
With air conditioning: refer to evaporator core replacement (see
EVAPORATOR CORE REPLACEMENT ).
Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER
WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).
HEATER VALVE CABLE ADJUSTMENT
valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C).
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Fig. 104: Opening Cable Clamp And Disconnecting Heater Valve Cable
2. From under the dash, disconnect the heater valve cable housing from the cable
clamp (A), and disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the air mix control
linkage (C).
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Fig. 105: Disconnecting Heater Valve Cable From Cable Clamp (4-Door)
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Fig. 106: Disconnecting Heater Valve Cable From Cable Clamp (2-Door)
3. Set the temperature control dial to Max Cool (LO) with the ignition switch ON
(II).
4. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the air mix control linkage (C) as shown in
step 2. Hold the end of the heater valve cable housing against the stop (D), then
snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A).
NOTE: Insert the ring from the end of the cable securely to
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the linkage pin.

4-door: Insert the ring over the nail, making sure it
is correctly attached.
2-door: Insert the ring all the way to the base of the
pin.
5. From under the hood, turn the heater valve arm (C) to the fully closed position
and hold it as shown in Fig. 107. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the heater
valve arm, and gently pull on the heater valve cable housing to take up any
slack, then install the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A).
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Fig. 107: Turning Heater Valve Arm To Fully Closes Position And Hold
EVAPORATOR CORE REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station (see

REFRIGERANT RECOVERY ).
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Fig. 108: Disconnecting Suction Line & Receiver Line

3. Remove the blower unit, 4-door (see 4-DOOR ) or 2-door (see 2-DOOR ).
TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST ).
5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the power transistor, then remove the self-
tapping screws, and the expansion valve cover (B).
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Fig. 109: Disconnecting Connector From Power Transistor

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6. Carefully pull out the evaporator core (A) and the plate (B) without bending
the pipes.
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Fig. 110: Pulling Out Evaporator Core And Plate

ND-OIL 8) (see A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT ).
Charge the system (see SYSTEM CHARGING ).
2-DOOR

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Fig. 111: Disconnecting Suction Line And Receiver Line (2-Door)

3. Remove the blower unit, 4-door (see 4-DOOR ) or 2-door (see 2-DOOR ).
5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the power transistor, then remove the self-
tapping screws, and the expansion valve cover (B).
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Fig. 112: Disconnecting Connector From Power Transistor (2-Door)

6. Carefully pull out the evaporator core without bending the pipes.
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Fig. 113: Pulling Out Evaporator Core

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ND-OIL 8) (see A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT ).

A/C COMPRESSOR REPLACEMENT
1. If the A/C compressor is marginally operable, run the engine at idle speed, and
let the air conditioning work for a few minutes, then shut the engine off.
INSTALLATION ).
shroud, then disconnect the connector. Remove the bolt and the nut, then
disconnect the suction line (B) and discharge line (C) from the A/C
compressor. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to
avoid moisture and dust contamination.
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7. Remove the mounting bolts and the A/C compressor. Be careful not to damage
the radiator fins when removing the A/C compressor.
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Fig. 115: Removing Mounting Bolts And A/C Compressor

8. Install the A/C compressor in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
If you're installing a new A/C compressor, you must calculate the amount
of refrigerant oil to be removed from it (see A/C SERVICE TIPS AND
PRECAUTIONS ).
Use refrigerant oil (DENSO ND-OIL 8) for HFC-134a DENSO piston
type A/C compressor only.
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To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once

dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils.
Be careful not to damage the radiator fins when installing the A/C
compressor and the A/C condenser fan shroud.
Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER
Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio, and the navigation system, then
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CHECK
1. Check the pressure plate for discoloration, peeling, or other damage. If there is
damage, replace the clutch set (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
OVERHAUL ).
2. Check the pulley bearing play and drag by rotating the pulley by hand. Replace
the clutch set with a new one if it is noisy or has excessive play/drag (see A/C
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OVERHAUL ).
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Fig. 116: Checking Pulley Bearing Play And Dragging By Rotating Pulley
By Hand
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3. Measure the clearance between the pulley (A) and the pressure plate (B) with a
dial indicator. Zero out the indicator, then apply battery voltage to the A/C
compressor clutch. Measure the movement of the pressure plate when the
voltage is applied. If the clearance is not within the specified limits, the
pressure plate must be reshimmed (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH
OVERHAUL ).
Clearance: 0.35-0.6 mm (0.014-0.024 in.)

0.3 mm and 0.5 mm.
Fig. 117: Measuring Clearance Between Pulley And Pressure Plate With
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Dial Indicator
4. Check resistance of the field coil. If resistance is not within specifications,

replace the field coil (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OVERHAUL ).
Field Coil Resistance: 3.9-4.3 ohms at 68F (20C)
Fig. 118: Checking Resistance Of Field Coil

A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OVERHAUL

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A/C clutch holder, Robinair 10204 or Kent-Moore J37872, or Honda Tool and
Equipment KMT-J33939, commercially available
1. Remove the center bolt (A) while holding the pressure plate with a
commercially available A/C clutch holder (B).
Fig. 119: Removing Center Bolt While Holding Pressure Plate

2. Remove the pressure plate (A) and shim(s) (B), taking care not to lose the shim
(s). If the clutch needs adjustment, increase or decrease the number and
thickness of shims as necessary, then reinstall the pressure plate, and recheck
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its clearance (see A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CHECK ).

0.3 mm and 0.5 mm.
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Fig. 120: Removing Pressure Plate And Shim(s)

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3. If you are replacing the field coil, remove the snap ring (A) with snap ring
pliers, then remove the pulley (B). Be careful not to damage the pulley or the
A/C compressor.
Fig. 121: Removing Snap Ring With Snap Ring Pliers

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4. Remove the screw, the wire harness clip (A), and the holder (B). Remove the
snap ring (C) with snap ring pliers, then remove the field coil (D). Be careful
not to damage the field coil or the A/C compressor.
Fig. 122: Removing Field Coil

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5. Reassemble the clutch in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these
items:
Install the field coil with the wire side facing down, and align the boss on
the field coil with the hole in the A/C compressor.
Clean the pulley and A/C compressor sliding surfaces with contact cleaner
or other non-petroleum solvent.
Install new snap rings, note the installation direction, and make sure they
are fully seated in the groove.
Make sure that the pulley turns smoothly after it's reassembled.
Route and clamp the wires properly or they can be damaged by the pulley.
A/C COMPRESSOR RELIEF VALVE REPLACEMENT

2. Remove the relief valve (A) and the O-ring (B). Plug the opening to keep
foreign matter from entering the system and the A/C compressor oil from
running out.
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Fig. 123: Removing Relief Valve And O-Ring

3. Clean the mating surfaces.

4. Replace the O-ring with a new one at the relief valve, and apply a thin coat of
refrigerant oil before installing it.
5. Remove the plug, and install and tighten the relief valve.
6. Charge the system (see SYSTEM CHARGING ).
A/C CONDENSER REPLACEMENT
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2. Remove the front bulkhead cover.
3. Remove the clips (A), then remove the air intake cover (B) and the air intake
tube or duct (C).
Fig. 124: Removing Air Intake Cover And Air Intake Tube Or Duct
4. Remove the bolts and radiator upper mount brackets.
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Fig. 125: Removing Radiator Upper Mount Brackets

5. Remove the bolt, then disconnect the receiver line (A) from the A/C condenser.
Disconnect the A/C pressure switch connector (B).
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Fig. 126: Disconnecting Receiver Line From A/C Condenser

6. Remove the bolts from the A/C condenser.
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Fig. 127: Removing Bolts From A/C Condenser

7. Remove the nut, then disconnect the discharge line from the A/C condenser.
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Fig. 128: Disconnecting Discharge Line From A/C Condenser

8. Remove the A/C condenser by lifting it up. Be careful not to damage the
radiator and A/C condenser fins when removing the A/C condenser.
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Fig. 129: Removing A/C Condenser By Lifting It Up

9. Install the A/C condenser in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
If you're installing a new A/C condenser, add refrigerant oil (DENSO ND-
OIL 8) (see A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT ).
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Be careful not to damage the radiator or the A/C condenser fins when
installing the A/C condenser.
RECEIVER/DRYER DESICCANT REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the A/C condenser (see A/C COMPRESSOR RELIEF VALVE

REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the bolts from the A/C condenser, then remove the receiver/dryer (A),
the bracket (B) and the O-rings (C).
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Fig. 130: Removing Receiver/Dryer

3. Install the receiver/dryer in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Replace the O-rings with new ones, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil
(DENSO ND-OIL 8) before installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings
for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
REFRIGERANT RECOVERY
CAUTION:
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Air conditioning refrigerant or lubricant vapor

1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station (A) to the

high-pressure service port (B) and the low-pressure service port (C), as shown
in Fig. 131, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
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Fig. 131: Connecting R-134a Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Charging

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Station To High-Pressure Service Port

2. Measure the amount of refrigerant oil removed from the A/C system after the
recovery process is completed. Be sure to put the same amount of new
refrigerant oil back into the A/C system before charging.
SYSTEM EVACUATION

Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the
1. When an A/C System has been opened to the atmosphere, such as during
installation or repair, it must be evacuated using a R-134a refrigerant
recovery/recycling/charging station. (If the system has been open for several
days, the receiver/dryer should be replaced, and the system should be
evacuated for several hours.)
in Fig. 132, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Evacuate the
system.
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3. If the low-pressure does not reach more than 93.3 kPa (700 mmHg, 27.6 in.Hg)
in 15 minutes, there is probably a leak in the system. Partially charge the
system, and check for leaks (see step 3 in Refrigerant Leak Test ).
SYSTEM CHARGING


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2. Evacuate the system (see SYSTEM EVACUATION ).

3. Add the same amount of new refrigerant oil to the system that was removed
during recovery. Use only DENSO ND-OIL 8 refrigerant oil.
4. Charge the system with the specified amount of R-134a refrigerant. Do not
overcharge the system; the compressor will be damaged.
Select the appropriate units of measure for your refrigerant charging station.
Refrigerant Capacity:
500 to 550 g
0.50 to 0.55 kg
1.1 to 1.2 lbs
17.6 to 19.4 oz
5. Check for refrigerant leaks (see REFRIGERANT LEAK TEST ).
6. Check for system performance (see PERFORMANCE TEST ).
REFRIGERANT LEAK TEST

Leak detector, Honda Tool and Equipment YGK-H-10PM commercially available

combustible vapor.
injury.

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2. Open high pressure valve to charge the system to the specified capacity, then
close the supply valve, and disconnect the charging station fittings.
Select the appropriate units of measure for your refrigerant charging station.
Refrigerant Capacity:
500 to 550 g
0.50 to 0.55 kg
1.1 to 1.2 lbs
17.6 to 19.4 oz
3. Check the system for leaks using a R-134a refrigerant leak detector with an
accuracy of 14 g (0.5 oz) per year or better.
4. If you find leaks that require the system to be opened (to repair or replace
hoses, fittings, etc.), recover the system.
5. After checking and repairing leaks, the system must be evacuated.
A/C SYSTEM TEST
PERFORMANCE TEST

combustible vapor.
injury.

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The performance test will help determine if the air conditioner system is operating
within specifications.

1. Connect a R-134a refrigerant recovery/recycling/charging station to the high-

pressure service port and the low-pressure service port, following the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
2. Determine the relative humidity and air temperature.
4. Insert a thermometer (A) in the center vent.
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Fig. 135: Inserting Thermometer In Center Vent

5. Place a thermometer (B) near the blower unit.

6. Test conditions:
Avoid direct sunlight.
Open hood.
Open front doors.
Set the temperature control dial to Max Cool, the mode control switch to
Vent and the recirculation control switch to Recirculate.
Turn the A/C switch on and the fan switch to Max.
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Run the engine at 1,500 rpm.

No driver or passengers in vehicle.
7. After running the air conditioning for 10 minutes under the above test
conditions, read the delivery temperature from the thermometer in the center
vent, the intake temperature near the blower unit, and the high and low system
pressure from the A/C gauges.
8. To complete the charts:
Mark the delivery temperature along the vertical line.
Mark the intake temperature (ambient air temperature) along the bottom
line.
Draw a line straight up from the air temperature to the humidity.
Mark a point 10% above and 10% below the humidity level.
From each point, draw a horizontal line across the delivery temperature.
The delivery temperature should fall between the two lines.
Complete the low-side pressure test and high-side pressure test in the same
way.
Any measurements outside the line may indicate the need for further
inspection.
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Fig. 136: Example Of Temperature And Pressure Chart

PRESSURE TEST
PRESSURE TEST REFERENCE

Related
Test results Probable cause Remedy
symptoms
After stopping Recover, evacuate
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A/C compressor, (see SYSTEM

pressure drops EVACUATION ),
about 196 kPa (2.0 and recharge with
2 Air in system specified amount
kgf/cm , 28 psi)
quickly, and then (see SYSTEM
falls gradually. CHARGING ).
Discharge (high) Clogged A/C

condenser or Clean
pressure
abnormally high Reduced or no air radiator fins Check voltage
flow through A/C A/C condenser and fan rpm.
condenser. or radiator fan Check fan
not working direction.
properly
Line to A/C Restricted flow of
condenser is refrigerant in Restricted lines
excessively hot. system
High and low- Faulty A/C
pressures are compressor
balanced soon discharge
Replace the A/C
after stopping A/C valve
compressor.
compressor. Faulty A/C
Discharge Low side is higher compressor

pressure than normal. seal
abnormally low Replace
Outlet of Faulty
Recover,
expansion valve is expansion
not frosted, low- valve evacuate, and
pressure gauge recharge with
Moisture in
indicates vacuum. specified
system
amount.
Frozen
Expansion valve is expansion Recover,
not frosted, and valve evacuate, and
low-pressure line (Moisture in recharge with
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is not cold. Low- system) specified

pressure gauge Faulty amount.
indicates vacuum. expansion Replace the
valve expansion valve.
Suction (low) Discharge
pressure Run the fan with A/C
temperature is low,
abnormally low and the air flow compressor off, then
Frozen evaporator
check evaporator
from vents is
temperature sensor.
restricted.
Expansion valve is Clogged expansion
Clean or replace.
frosted. valve
Low-pressure hose
and check joint are
Expansion valve
cooler than the Repair or replace.
open too long
temperature
around evaporator.
Suction pressure is
Excessive Recover, evacuate,
lowered when A/C
refrigerant in and recharge with
condenser is
Suction pressure system specified amount.
cooled by water.
abnormally high
High and low- Faulty gasket
pressures are
Faulty high-
equalized as soon
as the A/C pressure valve Replace the A/C
compressor is Foreign compressor.
stopped, and both particle stuck
gauges fluctuate in high-
while running. pressure valve
Clogged A/C Clean

Suction and condenser or
Reduced air flow Check voltage
discharge radiator fins
through A/C and fan rpm.
pressures
condenser. A/C condenser Check fan
abnormally high
or radiator fan direction.
not working
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properly
Low-pressure hose
Clogged or kinked
and metal end
low-pressure hose Repair or replace.
areas are cooler
parts
Suction and than evaporator.
discharge Temperature
pressures around expansion
abnormally low valve is too low Clogged high-
Repair or replace.
compared with pressure line
that around
receiver/dryer.
A/C compressor A/C compressor Replace the A/C
clutch is dirty. shaft seal leaking compressor.
Tighten bolt(s) or
A/C compressor Leaking around
replace the A/C
bolt(s) are dirty. bolt(s)
compressor.
Refrigerant leaks
A/C compressor
Replace the A/C
gasket is wet with Gasket leaking
compressor.
oil.
Clean A/C fitting and
A/C fitting is dirty. Leaking O-ring.
replace O-ring.
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2003-07 HVAC Climate Control - Accord (V6)
2003-07 HVAC
Climate Control - Accord (V6)
SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) (IF HVAC MAINTENANCE IS

REQUIRED)
The Accord SRS includes a driver's airbag in the steering wheel hub, a passenger's
airbag in the dashboard above the glove box, seat belt tensioners in the front seat
belt retractors, side curtain airbags in the sides of the roof, and side airbags in the
front seat-backs. Information necessary to safely service the SRS is included in SRS
(SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM) (EXCEPT HYBRID & V6)
To avoid rendering the SRS inoperative, which could lead to personal injury or
death in the event of a severe frontal or side collision, all SRS service work
must be performed by an authorized Honda dealer.
Improper service procedures, including incorrect removal and installation of
the SRS, could lead to personal injury caused by unintentional deployment of
the airbags and/or side airbags.
Do not bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, or side impact
sensors when the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned OFF; otherwise, the system may fail in a collision, or
the airbags may deploy.
SRS electrical connectors are identified by yellow color coding. Related
components are located in the steering column, front console, dashboard,
dashboard lower panel, in the dashboard above the glove box, in the front
seats, in the roof side, and around the floor. Do not use electrical test
equipment on these circuits.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Climate Control Components (4-Door - 1 Of 2)

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Fig. 5: Locating Climate Control Components (4-Door/2-Door)


Recirculation Recirculation control motor circuit HVAC DTCs, refer to
control doors troubleshooting, refer to GENERAL
do not change RECIRCULATION CONTROL TROUBLESHOOTING
between MOTOR CIRCUIT INFORMATION
Fresh and TROUBLESHOOTING Blown fuse No. 30
Recirculate (7.5A) in the under-dash
fuse/relay box
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of all connectors
Blower, Climate control power and ground HVAC DTCs, refer to
heater circuits troubleshooting, refer to GENERAL
controls, and CLIMATE CONTROL POWER TROUBLESHOOTING
A/C do not AND GROUND CIRCUIT INFORMATION
work TROUBLESHOOTING Blown fuse No. 30
(7.5A) in the under-dash
fuse/relay box
Poor ground at G503
of all connectors
Both fans do Radiator and A/C condenser fan HVAC DTCs, refer to
not run at low low speed circuit troubleshooting GENERAL
speed with (see RADIATOR AND A/C TROUBLESHOOTING
the A/C on CONDENSER FAN LOW INFORMATION
(but the A/C SPEED CIRCUIT Blown fuse No. 9 (20A)
compressor TROUBLESHOOTING ) in the under-hood
runs with the fuse/relay box, and No.
A/C on) 30 (7.5A) in the under-
dash fuse/relay box
Poor ground at G301

of all connectors
The A/C A/C condenser fan high speed HVAC DTCs, refer to
condenser fan circuit troubleshooting (see A/C GENERAL
does not run CONDENSER FAN HIGH TROUBLESHOOTING
at high speed SPEED CIRCUIT INFORMATION
with the A/C TROUBLESHOOTING ) Blown fuse No. 30
on (but both (7.5A) in the under-dash
fans run at fuse/relay box
low speed and
Poor ground at G201
the A/C
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compressor Cleanliness and tightness

operates with of all connectors
the A/C on)
Both fans do Radiator and A/C condenser fan HVAC DTCs, refer to

not run at high speed circuit troubleshooting GENERAL
high speed (see RADIATOR AND A/C TROUBLESHOOTING
with the A/C CONDENSER FAN HIGH INFORMATION
on (but both SPEED CIRCUIT Cleanliness and tightness
fans run at TROUBLESHOOTING ) of all connectors
low speed and
the A/C
compressor
operates with
the A/C on)
The A/C A/C compressor clutch circuit HVAC DTCs, refer to

compressor troubleshooting (see A/C GENERAL
clutch does COMPRESSOR CLUTCH TROUBLESHOOTING
not engage CIRCUIT INFORMATION
(but both fans TROUBLESHOOTING ) Blown fuse No. 12
run with the (7.5A) in the under-hood
A/C on) fuse/relay box, and No.
30 (7.5A) in the under-
dash fuse/relay box
of all connectors
A/C system A/C Pressure Switch Circuit HVAC DTCs, refer to
does not Troubleshooting (see A/C GENERAL
come on PRESSURE SWITCH CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
(both fans and TROUBLESHOOTING ) INFORMATION
the A/C Cleanliness and tightness
compressor of all connectors
do not work);
heater is OK
Blower fan ECT troubleshooting, refer to Powertrain DTCs, refer
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runs slower GENERAL GENERAL

than expected TROUBLESHOOTING TROUBLESHOOTING
in cold INFORMATION ) INFORMATION )
weather
NOTE:
It is normal for the blower to run slowly until
the engine coolant temperature begins to
rise. If the blower continues to run slowly for
an abnormal length of time, continue to
troubleshoot the problem.
AUTO button 1. Turn the ignition switch ON Climate control power and
does not work (II). ground circuit
2. Press the OFF button, then troubleshooting, refer to
press the AUTO button and CLIMATE CONTROL
check the display. POWER AND GROUND
CIRCUIT
If AUTO is displayed, but
TROUBLESHOOTING
the climate control is not
working properly, do the
self-diagnostic, refer to
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
If AUTO is not displayed,
check for poor connections
at the climate control
connector, if the
connections are OK,
display panel.
OFF button 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
does not work (II).
2. Press the AUTO button, then
press the OFF button and check
the display.
If climate control display
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turns off, go to
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
If the climate control
display does not turn on,
display panel.
Dual button 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
does not work (II).
press the DUAL button several
times and check the DUAL
button LED. The LED should
toggle on and off as the button
is pressed.
off, go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
audio-HVAC display
panel.
Recirculation 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
button does (II).
not work 2. Press the recirculation button
is pressed.
off, go to recirculation
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control motor test, refer to

RECIRCULATION
CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING :
4-door: 4-DOOR
2-door: 2-DOOR
audio-HVAC display
panel.
Defroster 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
button does (II).
not work 2. Press the AUTO button, then
press the defroster button
is pressed.
off, go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
audio-HVAC display
panel.
Rear window 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
defogger (II).
button does 2. Press the rear window defogger
not work button several times and check
the button's LED. The LED
should toggle on and off as the
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button is pressed.
off, go to FUNCTION
TEST .
audio-HVAC display
panel.
MODE 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
button does (II).
not work 2. Press the MODE button and
check the display.
If the display scrolls
through the modes as the
MODE button is pressed,
go to GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
scroll the modes as the
display panel.
Fan control 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
button does (II).
not work 2. Press the AUTO button, then
adjust the fan control button
up/down and check the display.
If the display indicates the
fan speed selection
up/down, go to
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
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INFORMATION .
indicate the fan speed
selection up/down, replace
the audio-HVAC display
panel.
TEMP 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
control dial (II).
does not work 2. Press the AUTO button, then
adjust the TEMP control dial
up/down and check the display.
change in temperature
up/down, go to
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
indicate the change in
temperature up/down,
display panel.
Passenger's 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
TEMP dial (II).
does not work 2. Press the AUTO button, press
the DUAL button, then adjust
the passenger's TEMP control
dial up/down and check the
display.
change in temperature
up/down for the
passenger's side, go to
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GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION .
temperature up/down for
the passenger's side,
display panel.
Audio-HVAC 1. Turn the ignition switch ON
display panel (II).
will not run 2. Press the A/C button, and then
self-diagnosis OFF button and check the
display.
If the display turns on and
off as the buttons are
pressed, there are no DTCs
stored, troubleshoot the
individual symptoms.
respond as the buttons are
pressed, check for loose or
poor connections at the
audio-HVAC display
panel. If the connections
are OK, replace the audio-
HVAC display panel.
More than Climate control power and ground HVAC DTCs, refer to
one button is circuit troubleshooting, refer to GENERAL
not working CLIMATE CONTROL POWER TROUBLESHOOTING
AND GROUND CIRCUIT INFORMATION
TROUBLESHOOTING .
Audio-HVAC Audio-HVAC display module
display/button illumination troubleshooting, refer
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illumination to AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY

problems MODULE ILLUMINATION
TROUBLESHOOTING .
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 6: Climate Control Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

Fig. 7: Climate Control Circuit Diagram (2 Of 2)

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NOTE: Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if the heater

is inoperative or if any of the following items are
operative; A/C condenser fan, radiator fan, A/C
compressor. Refer to the SYMPTOM
INFORMATION ).
1. Check for body DTCs in test mode A of the MICS, refer to MOTOR TEST .
Are there any DTCs indicated?

NO - Go to step 2.
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YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the relay module and the A/C
pressure switch.
pressure switch.
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A/C Pressure Switch
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YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step .
8. Disconnect audio-HVAC display panel connector A (22P).
connector A (22P) and body ground.
Fig. 10: Measuring Voltage Between No. 5 Terminal Of Audio-Hvac

Display Panel Connector A (22P) And Body Ground
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NO - Repair the open in the wire between the climate control unit and the
A/C pressure switch.
12. Measure the resistance between the No. 14 and No. 15 terminals of audio-
HVAC display panel connector A (22P).

Audio-HVAC Display Panel Connector A (22P)
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13. Reconnect audio-HVAC display panel connector A (22P).
15. Check the blower motor at several speeds.
Does the blower motor operate at all speeds?

panel connector A (22P) and at the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. If
the connections are good, substitute a known-good audio-HVAC display
panel and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the
NO - Repair the problem in the blower motor circuit.

PASSENGER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover, refer to PASSENGER'S

DASHBOARD LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION .
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor.
Disconnect the 7P connector (B) from the passenger's air mix control motor
(C). Remove the self-tapping screws and the passenger's air mix control motor
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Sensor
2-DOOR
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard lower cover, refer to PASSENGER'S

DASHBOARD LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION .
2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the mode control motor. Disconnect
the 2P connector (B) from the evaporator temperature sensor. Disconnect the
5P connector (C) from the passenger's air mix control motor (D). Remove the
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self-tapping screws and the passenger's air mix control motor from the heater
unit.
Fig. 13: Disconnecting 10P Connector From Mode Control Motor

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2003-07 HVAC Climate Control - Accord
2003-07 HVAC
Climate Control - Accord

4-DOOR
Fig. 1: Identifying Climate Control Component Location - 4-Door

2-DOOR
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Identifying Climate Control Component Location - 2-door

4-DOOR
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2-DOOR
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4-DOOR/2-DOOR
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Fig. 5: Identifying Climate Control Component Location - 4-door/2-door

HOW TO CHECK FOR DTCS WITH THE HDS
NOTE: Before troubleshooting the climate control system, refer to

the multiplex integrated control system test mode A (see
TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST
MODE A ).

2. Connect the HDS to the Data Link Connector (DLC) (A) located under the
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4. Select DTCs in the body electrical climate control mode MENU of the HDS.
5. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is indicated, go to the next step. If no DTC(s) is
indicated, refer to SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX.
8. Do the troubleshooting procedure for the DTC indicated.
HOW TO RETRIEVE A DTC (WITHOUT HDS)
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The audio-HVAC display panel has a self-diagnosis function for climate control. To
run the self-diagnosis function, do the following:

MODE A ).

2. Set the driver's temperature control dial or button on MAX Cool.
3. Press and hold the OFF button.
4. While holding the OFF button, press the rear window defogger button five
times within 10 seconds. The self-diagnosis will begin..
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Fig. 7: Locating Auto Button And Off Button (Without Navigation

System)
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Fig. 8: Locating Auto Button And Off Button (With Navigation System)
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If there are any problems in the system, the temperature indicator will light up
the segment (A through Q) corresponding to the error. The temperature
indicator will then alternate every second between displaying "88" (all
segments lit) and the error code segment (A through Q).
NOTE: The system will only display the DTC when the AUTO
and OFF buttons are pressed. If you release the
buttons, the display will go blank. To return the display,
simply press the AUTO then the OFF buttons again.
To determine the meaning of the DTC, refer to the DTC

TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX. If no segments light up, the system is still
not operating properly, check the sensor inputs to the climate control unit, or
refer to SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX.
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Fig. 9: Identifying Drivers Temperature Indicator

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Fig. 10: Identifying Passenger's Temperature Indicator

Cancelling the Self-diagnostic Function

5. Turn the ignition switch OFF to cancel the self-diagnostic function. After
completing repair work, run the self-diagnostic function again to make sure
that there are no other malfunctions.
CHECKING THE DTCS BY DTC INDICATOR

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MODE A ).
To retrieve the DTC, you must run the self-diagnostic function. In the case of
multiple problems, the respective indicator segments will come on. If indicator
segments A, C, E, G, I, L, and O come on at the same time, there may be an open in
the common ground wire of the sensors.
Fig. 11: Checking DTCs By DTC Indicator Chart

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DISPLAYING SENSOR INPUTS AT THE CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT
The climate control unit has a mode that displays sensor inputs it receives. This
mode shows you what the climate control unit is receiving from each of the sensors,
one at a time, and it can help you determine if a sensor is faulty.
Check these items before using the sensor input display mode
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the recirculation door function;
press the recirculation button to switch from FRESH to RECIRC. The air
volume and sound should change slightly.
2. Set the temperature control knob to the desired test temperature. When
selecting the test temperature, note these items:
"LO" temperature setting will default to MAX COOL, VENT, and
RECIRC.
"HI" temperature setting will default to MAX HOT, FLOOR, and FRESH.
61 through 89F settings will use the automatic climate control logic.

To run the sensor input display mode, follow these steps

2. Press and hold both the AUTO and DUAL buttons, then start the engine.
3. After the engine starts, release the buttons. The audio-HVAC display panel will
flash the sensor number and then the value for that sensor. Record the value
displayed.
4. To advance to the next sensor, press the rear window defogger button.
SENSOR ITEM AND DISPLAYED VALUE DESCRIPTION

Sensor Item Displayed Value
1 In-car Temperature Sensor C
2 Ambient Temperature C
Solar Radiation Sensor 2

3 Kcal/m .h
Value: Dark = 00,
Flashlight = 04, Cloudy =
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10, Sunny = 65
Engine Coolant
4 C
Temperature
Evaporator Outlet Air
5 C
Temperature
Driver's Air Mix Opening
(Low value indicates
6 cooler air distribution, % of opening
higher value indicates
warmer air distribution)
Passenger's Air Mix
Opening (Low value
indicates cooler air
7 % of opening
distribution, higher value
indicates warmer air
distribution)
Vehicle Speed (Vehicle
8 must be driven to display Km/h
speed)
Vent Temperature Air Out
9 C
(TAO)
NOTE: The sensor values will be displayed in degrees

Celsius (C) or an alphanumeric code. Use the chart
to convert the value to degrees Fahrenheit (F).
If the sensor value displays "Er", this indicates
there is an open or short in the circuit or sensor.
Check for DTCs using the HDS, or refer to checking
DTCs by DTC indication to check for DTCs.
If necessary, compare the sensor input display to
an alike, known-good vehicle under the same test
conditions.
If the sensor is out of the normal range, refer to the
sensor test, or substitute with a known-good
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sensor, and recheck.
5. To cancel the sensor input display mode, press the AUTO button, or turn the
ignition off.
Celsius to Fahrenheit Conversion Table
CELSIUS TO FAHRENHEIT CONVERSION (1 OF 2)

C F C F C F C F C F
0 32 10 50 20 68 30 86 40 104
1 34 11 52 21 70 31 88 41 106
2 36 12 54 22 72 32 90 42 108
3 37 13 55 23 73 33 91 43 109
4 39 14 57 24 75 34 93 44 111
5 41 15 59 25 77 35 95 45 113
6 43 16 61 26 79 36 97 46 115
7 45 17 63 27 81 37 99 47 117
8 46 18 64 28 82 38 100 48 118
9 48 19 66 29 84 39 102 49 120
CELSIUS TO FAHRENHEIT CONVERSION (2 OF 2)

C F C F C F C F C F
50 122 60 140 70 158 80 176 90 194
51 124 61 142 71 160 81 178 91 196
52 126 62 144 72 162 82 180 92 198
53 127 63 145 73 163 83 181 93 199
54 128 64 147 74 165 84 183 94 201
55 131 65 149 75 167 85 185 95 203
56 133 66 151 76 169 86 187 96 205
57 135 67 152 77 170 87 188 97 207
58 136 68 154 78 172 88 190 98 208
59 139 69 158 79 174 89 192 99 210
Alphanumeric Conversion Table
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ALPHANUMERIC CONVERSION
Display Reading (Alphanumeric) C F %
A1 thru A9 -1 thru -9 30 thru 16 -1 thru -9
B0 thru B9 -10 thru -19 14 thru -2 -10 thru -19
C0 thru C9 -20 thru -29 -4 thru -20 -20 thru -29
D0 thru D9 -30 thru -39 -22 thru -38 -30 thru -39
E0 thru E9 -40 thru -49 -40 thru -58 -
F0 thru F9 -50 thru -59 -58 thru -74 +100 thru +109

CHECKING THE DTCS BY HDS

Detection Item
DTC ECU DTC type Refer To
or Symptom
(see DTC B1050,
Communication Climate B1100, B1150,
Loss of
B1200 circuit error control B1200, B1250:
communication
(BUS Off) unit COMMUNICATION
BUS LINE ERROR )
(see DTC B1202:
Climate control Climate CLIMATE
B1202 unit internal control Internal error CONTROL UNIT
error unit INTERNAL
ERROR )
(see DTC B1205:
Climate control CLIMATE
unit lost CONTROL UNIT
communication Climate LOST
Loss of
B1205 with the gauge control COMMUNICATION
communication
control module unit WITH THE GAUGE
(VSP/NE CONTROL
message) MODULE (VSP/NE
MESSAGE) )
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(see DTC B1206:

CLIMATE
Climate control
CONTROL UNIT
unit lost
Climate LOST
communication Loss of
B1206 control COMMUNICATION
with the gauge communication
unit WITH THE GAUGE
control module
CONTROL
(ECT message)
MODULE (ECT
MESSAGE) )
(see DTC B1207:
Climate control CLIMATE
unit lost CONTROL UNIT
communication Climate LOST
Loss of
B1207 with the gauge control COMMUNICATION
communication
control module unit WITH THE GAUGE
(ILLUMI CONTROL
message) MODULE (ILLUMI
MESSAGE) )
(see DTC B1225 OR
An open in the DTC INDICATOR
Climate
in-car A: AN OPEN IN
B1225 control Signal error
temperature THE IN-CAR
unit
sensor circuit TEMPERATURE
SENSOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1226 OR
DTC INDICATOR
A short in the in- Climate
B: A SHORT IN
B1226 car temperature control Signal error
THE IN-CAR
sensor circuit unit
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR CIRCUIT )
An open in the (see DTC B1227 OR

Climate DTC INDICATOR
outside air
B1227 control Signal error C: AN OPEN IN
temperature
unit THE OUTSIDE AIR
sensor circuit
TEMPERATURE
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SENSOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1228 OR
A short in the DTC INDICATOR
Climate
outside air D: A SHORT IN
temperature THE OUTSIDE AIR
unit
sensor circuit TEMPERATURE
SENSOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1229 OR
An open in the Climate DTC INDICATOR
B1229 sunlight sensor control Signal error E: AN OPEN IN
circuit unit THE SUNLIGHT
SENSOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1230 OR
A short in the Climate DTC INDICATOR
B1230 sunlight sensor control Signal error F: A SHORT IN
circuit unit THE SUNLIGHT
SENSOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1231 OR
DTC INDICATOR
An open in the
Climate G: AN OPEN IN
evaporator
B1231 control Signal error THE
temperature
unit EVAPORATOR
sensor circuit
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1232 OR
DTC INDICATOR
A short in the
Climate H: A SHORT IN
evaporator
B1232 control Signal error THE
temperature
unit EVAPORATOR
sensor circuit
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1233 OR
B1233 An open in the Signal error DTC INDICATOR I:
driver's air mix Climate AN OPEN IN THE
control motor control DRIVER'S AIR MIX
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circuit unit CONTROL MOTOR

CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1234 OR
DTC INDICATOR
A short in the
Climate J: A SHORT IN
driver's air mix
B1234 control Signal error THE DRIVER'S
control motor
unit AIR MIX
circuit
CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1235 OR
DTC INDICATOR
A problem in the K: A PROBLEM IN
Climate
driver's air mix THE DRIVER'S
control linkage, AIR MIX
unit
door, or motor CONTROL
LINKAGE, DOOR,
OR MOTOR )
(see DTC B1236 OR
DTC INDICATOR
An open in the
Climate O: AN OPEN IN
passenger's air
B1236 control Signal error THE PASSENGER'S
mix control
unit AIR MIX
motor circuit
CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1237 OR
DTC INDICATOR
A short in the
Climate P: A SHORT IN
passenger's air
B1237 control Signal error THE PASSENGER'S
mix control
unit AIR MIX
motor circuit
CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1238 OR
DTC INDICATOR
A problem in the Q: A PROBLEM IN
passenger's air Climate THE PASSENGER'S
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mix control control AIR MIX

linkage, door, or unit CONTROL
B1238 Signal error
motor LINKAGE, DOOR,
OR MOTOR )
(see DTC B1239 OR
An open or short DTC INDICATOR
Climate
in the mode L: AN OPEN OR
control motor SHORT IN THE
unit
circuit MODE CONTROL
MOTOR CIRCUIT )
(see DTC B1240 OR
DTC INDICATOR
A problem in the
Climate M: A PROBLEM IN
mode control
B1240 control Signal error THE MODE
linkage, doors,
unit CONTROL
or motor
LINKAGE, DOORS,
OR MOTOR )
(see DTC B1241 OR
A problem in the Climate DTC INDICATOR
B1241 blower motor control Signal error N: A PROBLEM IN
circuit unit THE BLOWER
MOTOR CIRCUIT )

Recirculation HVAC DTCs (see

Recirculation control motor circuit
control doors GENERAL
do not change TROUBLESHOOTING
RECIRCULATION CONTROL
between INFORMATION )
MOTOR CIRCUIT
Fresh and Blown fuse No. 30
TROUBLESHOOTING )
Recirculate (7.5A) in the under-dash
fuse/relay box
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of all connectors
HVAC DTCs (see
GENERAL
Climate control power and ground TROUBLESHOOTING
Blower, INFORMATION )
circuit troubleshooting (see
heater
CLIMATE CONTROL Blown fuse No. 30
controls, and
POWER AND GROUND (7.5A) in the under-dash
A/C do not
CIRCUIT fuse/relay box
work
TROUBLESHOOTING ) Poor ground at G503
of all connectors
HVAC DTCs (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
The A/C INFORMATION )
condenser fan
A/C condenser fan circuit Blown fuse No. 9 (20A)
does not run
troubleshooting (see A/C in the under-hood
at all (but the
CONDENSER FAN CIRCUIT fuse/relay box, and No.
radiator fan
TROUBLESHOOTING ) 30 (7.5A) in the under-
runs with the
dash fuse/relay box
A/C on)
Poor ground at G201
of all connectors
HVAC DTCs (see
Radiator and A/C condenser fan GENERAL
common circuit troubleshooting TROUBLESHOOTING
Both fans do (see RADIATOR AND A/C INFORMATION )
not run with CONDENSER FAN COMMON Blown fuse No. 9 (20A)
the A/C on CIRCUIT and No. 11 (20A) in the
(but the A/C TROUBLESHOOTING ) under-hood fuse/relay
compressor box, and No. 30 (7.5A) in
runs with the the under-dash fuse/relay
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A/C on) box

of all connectors
HVAC DTCs (see
GENERAL
The A/C TROUBLESHOOTING
compressor A/C compressor clutch circuit INFORMATION )
clutch does troubleshooting (see A/C Blown fuse No. 12
not engage COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (7.5A) in the under-hood
(but both fans CIRCUIT fuse/relay box, and No.
run with the TROUBLESHOOTING ) 30 (7.5A) in the under-
A/C on) dash fuse/relay box
of all connectors
A/C system
does not HVAC DTCs (see
A/C pressure switch circuit
come on GENERAL
(both fans and TROUBLESHOOTING
PRESSURE SWITCH
the A/C INFORMATION )
CIRCUIT
compressor Cleanliness and tightness
TROUBLESHOOTING )
do not work); of all connectors
heater is OK
ECT Troubleshooting (see DTC
P0116: ECT SENSOR CIRCUIT
RANGE/PERFORMANCE
Blower fan PROBLEM (2003-2004
Powertrain DTCs (see
runs slower MODELS) )
GENERAL
than expected
TROUBLESHOOTING
in cold NOTE:
INFORMATION )
weather It is normal for the blower to run slowly
until the engine coolant temperature begins
to rise. If the blower continues to run slowly
for an abnormal length of time, continue to
troubleshoot the problem.

(II).
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2. Press the OFF button, then

press the AUTO button and
check the display.
If AUTO is displayed,
but the climate control is
not working properly,
check for DTCs with the
HDS (see GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING Climate control power and
INFORMATION ), or ground circuit troubleshooting
AUTO button do the self-diagnostic (see CLIMATE CONTROL
does not work (see HOW TO POWER AND GROUND
RETRIEVE A DTC CIRCUIT
(WITHOUT HDS) ). TROUBLESHOOTING ).
If AUTO is not
displayed, check for poor
connections at the
climate control
connector, if the
connections are OK,
display panel.

(II).
press the OFF button and
check the display.
OFF button
If climate control display
does not work
turns off, check for DTCs
with the HDS (see
GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ), or
go to self-diagnostic (see
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HOW TO RETRIEVE
A DTC (WITHOUT
HDS) ).
If the climate control
display does not turn on,
display panel.
(II).
press the DUAL button
DUAL button LED. The LED
off, check for DTCs with
Dual button the HDS (see
does not work GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ), or
HOW TO RETRIEVE
A DTC (WITHOUT
HDS) ).
audio-HVAC display
panel.
(II).
2. Press the recirculation button
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off go to recirculation
Recirculation control motor test, 4-door
button does (see 4-DOOR ) or 2-door
not work (see 2-DOOR ).
audio-HVAC display
panel.
(II).
press the defroster button
Defroster off, check for DTCs with

button does the HDS (see
not work GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ), or
HOW TO RETRIEVE
A DTC (WITHOUT
HDS) ).
audio-HVAC display
panel.
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(II).
2. Press the rear window
defogger button several times
and check the button's LED.
The LED should toggle on
and off as the button is
Rear window pressed.
defogger If the LED turns on and
button does off, go to rear window
not work defogger troubleshooting
(see FUNCTION
TEST )
audio-HVAC display
panel.
(II).
2. Press the MODE button and
check the display.
If the display scrolls
through the modes as the
MODE check for DTCs with the
button does HDS (see GENERAL
not work TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ), or
HOW TO RETRIEVE
A DTC (WITHOUT
HDS) ).
scroll the modes as the
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display panel.
(II).
adjust the fan control button
up/down and check the
display.
If the display indicates
the fan speed selection
up/down, check for
Fan control DTCs with the HDS (see
button does GENERAL
not work TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ), or
HOW TO RETRIEVE
A DTC (WITHOUT
HDS) ).
indicate the fan speed
selection up/down,
display panel.
(II).
adjust the TEMP control dial
up/down and check the
display.
the change in
check for DTCs with the
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HDS (see GENERAL

TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ), or
HOW TO RETRIEVE
TEMP A DTC (WITHOUT
control dial HDS) ).
does not work
display panel.

(II).
2. Press the AUTO button, press
the DUAL button, then adjust
the passenger's TEMP control
dial up/down and check the
display.
the change in
Passenger's temperature up/down for
TEMP dial the passenger's side,
does not work check for DTCs with the
HDS (see GENERAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
INFORMATION ), or
HOW TO RETRIEVE
A DTC (WITHOUT
HDS) ).
temperature up/down for
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the passenger's side,

display panel.
(II).
2. Press the A/C button, and
then OFF button and check
the display.
If the display turns on
and off as the buttons are
pressed, there are no
Audio-HVAC DTCs stored,
display panel troubleshoot the
will not run individual symptoms.
self-diagnosis If the display does not
respond as the buttons
are pressed, check for
loose or poor connections
at the audio-HVAC
display panel. If the
connections are OK,
display panel.
Climate control power and ground
circuit troubleshooting (see HVAC DTCs (see
More than
CLIMATE CONTROL GENERAL
one button is
POWER AND GROUND TROUBLESHOOTING
not working
CIRCUIT INFORMATION ).
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Audio-HVAC display module
Audio-HVAC
illumination troubleshooting (see
display/button
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY
illumination
MODULE ILLUMINATION
problems
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
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SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
DUAL AIR MIX CONTROL SYSTEM
Fig. 12: Identifying Dual Air Mix Control System (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 13: Identifying Dual Air Mix Control System (2 Of 2)

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Fig. 14: Identifying Climate Control System

compatible.
compressor failure.
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meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to service the R-134a air conditioning
systems.
DUAL CLIMATE CONTROL SYSTEM (WITH NAVIGATION SYSTEM) 2004-2005 MODELS
This system automatically controls the temperature and the vent mode of the air
direction to the driver and passenger's side, depending on the angle of the sun, and
the direction of the vehicle. It calculates information such as date, time, longitude,
and latitude from the navigation system, as well as the radiant strength of the sun
from the sunlight sensor, to determine the appropriate mode position and
temperature to be directed to each side.
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Fig. 15: Identifying Dual Climate Control System (With Navigation System -
2004-2005 Models)
In the event that the navigation system malfunctions, or when driving in areas
where the navigation cannot determine the vehicle position (non-coverage areas,
tunnels, etc.), the climate control system will operate the same as a vehicle without
navigation.
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CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS
Fig. 16: Identifying Climate Control Unit Inputs And Outputs (With
Navigation)
Fig. 17: Identifying Climate Control Unit Inputs And Outputs (Without
Navigation)
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Fig. 18: Identifying Audio HVAC Display Panel Connectors

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 19: Identifying Climate Control Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 20: Identifying Climate Control Circuit Diagram (2 Of 2)

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC CODE
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DTC CODE CHART

DTC Description
DTC B1225 or DTC indicator A An Open in the In-car Temperature
Sensor Circuit
DTC B1226 or DTC indicator B A Short in the In-car Temperature
Sensor Circuit
DTC B1227 or DTC indicator C An Open in the Outside Air
Temperature Sensor Circuit
DTC B1228 or DTC indicator D A Short in the Outside Air Temperature
Sensor Circuit
DTC B1229 or DTC indicator E An Open in the Sunlight Sensor Circuit
DTC B1230 or DTC indicator F A Short in the Sunlight Sensor Circuit
DTC B1231 or DTC indicator G An Open in the Evaporator Temperature
Sensor Circuit
DTC B1232 or DTC indicator H A Short in the Evaporator Temperature
Sensor Circuit
DTC B1233 or DTC indicator I An Open in the Driver's Air Mix
Control Motor Circuit
DTC B1234 or DTC indicator J A Short in the Driver's Air Mix Control
Motor Circuit
DTC B1235 or DTC indicator K A Problem in the Driver's Air Mix
Control Linkage, Door, or Motor
DTC B1239 or DTC indicator L An Open or Short in the Mode Control
Motor Circuit
DTC B1240 or DTC indicator M A Problem in the Mode Control
Linkage, Doors, or Motor
DTC B1241 or DTC indicator N A Problem in the Blower Motor Circuit
DTC B1236 or DTC indicator O An Open in the Passenger's Air Mix
DTC B1237 or DTC indicator P A Short in the Passenger's Air Mix
DTC B1238 or DTC indicator Q A Problem in the Passenger's Air Mix
Control Linkage, Door, or Motor
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DTC B1202 Climate Control Unit Internal Error

DTC B1205 Climate Control Unit Lost
Communication with the Gauge Control
Module (VSP/NE message)
Module (ECT message)
Module (ILLUMI message)
DTC B1225 OR DTC INDICATOR A: AN OPEN IN THE IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

2. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and then ON.
3. Operate the climate control system in several modes.
4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1225 or A indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure, check for loose wires or poor connections in the
in-car temperature sensor circuit.
5. Remove the in-car temperature sensor (see IN-CAR TEMPERATURE
SENSOR TEST ) and test it (see IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
TEST ).
Does the in-car temperature sensor test OK?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the in-car temperature sensor.
panel connector A (22P) and the No. 1 terminal of the in-car temperature
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Fig. 21: Checking Continuity Between No. 11 Terminal Of Audio-HVAC

Display Panel Connector A (22P) & No. 1 Terminal Of In-Car
Temperature Sensor 2P Connector
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the in-
car temperature sensor.
panel connector A (22P) and the No. 2 terminal of the in-car temperature
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Display Panel Connector A (22P) & No. 2 Terminal Of In-Car
panel connector A (22P) and at the in-car temperature sensor 2P
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the in-
car temperature sensor.
DTC B1226 OR DTC INDICATOR B: A SHORT IN THE IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1226 or B indicated?

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure.
5. Remove the in-car temperature sensor (see IN-CAR TEMPERATURE
SENSOR REPLACEMENT ).
6. Test the in-car temperature sensor (see IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
TEST ).
Is the resistance within the specifications in the graph shown in Fig. 73?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Replace the in-car temperature sensor.
panel connector A (22P) and body ground.
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Display Panel Connector & Body Ground
YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the climate control
unit and the in-car temperature sensor.
display panel.
DTC B1227 OR DTC INDICATOR C: AN OPEN IN THE OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

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4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1227 or C indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure, check for loose wires or poor connections on the
outside air temperature sensor circuit.
5. Remove the outside air temperature sensor (see OUTSIDE AIR
TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT ) and test it (see OUTSIDE
AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST ).
Does the outside air temperature sensor test OK?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the outside air temperature sensor.
panel connector A (22P) and the No. 1 terminal of the outside air temperature
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Display Panel Connector A (22P) & No. 1 Terminal Of Outside Air
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the
outside air temperature sensor.
panel connector A (22P) and the No. 2 terminal of the outside air temperature
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Display Panel Connector A (22P) & No. 2 Terminal Of Outside Air
panel connector A (22P) and at the outside air temperature sensor 2P
outside air temperature sensor.
DTC B1228 OR DTC INDICATOR D: A SHORT IN THE OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
CIRCUIT
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1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1228 or D indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
5. Remove the outside air temperature sensor (see OUTSIDE AIR
6. Test the outside air temperature sensor (see OUTSIDE AIR
Is the resistance within the specifications in the graph shown in Fig. 75?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Replace the outside air temperature sensor.
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Display Panel Connector A (22P) & Body Ground
unit and the outside air temperature sensor.
display panel.
DTC B1229 OR DTC INDICATOR E: AN OPEN IN THE SUNLIGHT SENSOR CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

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4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1229 or E indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
sunlight sensor circuit.
5. Disconnect the sunlight sensor 2P connector.
panel connector A (22P) and the No. 2 terminal of the sunlight sensor 2P
connector.
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Display Panel Connector A (22P) & No. 2 Terminal Of Sunlight Sensor 2P
Connector
YES - Go to step 8.
sunlight sensor.
panel connector A (22P) and the No. 1 terminal of the sunlight sensor 2P
connector.
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Display Panel Connector A (22P) & No. 1 Terminal Of Sunlight Sensor 2P
Connector
YES - Go to step 9.
sunlight sensor.
9. Reconnect the sunlight sensor 2P connector.
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11. Test the sunlight sensor (see SUNLIGHT SENSOR TEST ).

Is the sunlight sensor OK?

panel connector A (22P) and at the sunlight sensor 2P connector. If the
NO - Replace the sunlight sensor.
DTC B1230 OR DTC INDICATOR F: A SHORT IN THE SUNLIGHT SENSOR CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1230 or F indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
5. Disconnect the sunlight sensor 2P connector.
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unit and the sunlight sensor.
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Reconnect the sunlight sensor 2P connector.
10. Test the sunlight sensor (see SUNLIGHT SENSOR TEST ).
Is the sunlight sensor OK?
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display panel.
NO - Replace the sunlight sensor.
DTC B1231 OR DTC INDICATOR G: AN OPEN IN THE EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1231 or G indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
evaporator temperature sensor circuit.
TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT ) and test it (see
EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST ).
Does the evaporator temperature sensor test OK?

YES - Go to step 6.
panel connector A (22P) and the No. 1 terminal of the evaporator temperature
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Display Panel Connector A (22P) & No. 1 Terminal Of Evaporator
YES - Go to step 8.
evaporator temperature sensor.
panel connector A (22P) and the No. 2 terminal of the evaporator temperature
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Display Panel Connector A (22P) & No. 2 Terminal Of Evaporator

panel connector A (22P) and at the evaporator temperature sensor 2P
evaporator temperature sensor.
DTC B1232 OR DTC INDICATOR H: A SHORT IN THE EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
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CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1232 or H indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
6. Test the evaporator temperature sensor (see EVAPORATOR
Is the resistance within the specifications in the graph shown in

EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST ?
YES - Go to step 7.
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unit and the evaporator temperature sensor.
display panel.
DTC B1233 OR DTC INDICATOR I: AN OPEN IN THE DRIVER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT
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1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1233 or I indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
evaporator temperature sensor circuit.
5. Test the driver's air mix control motor.
Is the driver's air mix control motor OK?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the driver's air mix control motor.
6. Disconnect the driver's air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door)

connector.
panel connector A (22P) and the driver's air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or
5P (2-door) connector.
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL CONNECTOR A (22P) AND
DRIVER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR 7P CONNECTOR (4-DOOR)
22P 7P
No. 1 No. 3
No. 8 No. 1
No. 9 No. 2
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No. 15 No. 5
No. 20 No. 7
Fig. 33: Checking Continuity Between Terminals Of Audio-HVAC Display

Panel Connector A (22P) & Driver's Air Mix Control Motor Connector (4-
Door)

DRIVER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR 5P CONNECTOR (2-DOOR)
22P: 5P:
No. 1 No. 3
No. 8 No. 2
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No. 9 No. 1
No. 15 No. 5
No. 20 No. 4
Fig. 34: Checking Continuity Between Audio-HVAC Display Panel

Connector A (22P) & Driver's Air Mix Control Motor Connector (2-Door)

panel connector A (22P) and at the driver's air mix control motor 7P (4-
door) or 5P (2-door) connector. If the connections are good, substitute a
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known-good audio-HVAC display panel, and recheck. If the

symptom/indication goes away, replace the original audio-HVAC display
panel.
NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and
the driver's air mix control motor.
DTC B1234 OR DTC INDICATOR J: A SHORT IN THE DRIVER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1234 or J indicated?

YES - Go to step 5.
Is the driver's air mix control motor OK?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the driver's air mix control motor.
6. Disconnect the driver's air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door)

connector.
connector A (22P) terminals No. 1, 8, 9, 15 and 20 individually.
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Fig. 35: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground & Audio-HVAC

Display Panel Connector A (22P) Terminals No. 1, 8, 9, 15 And 20
Individually
YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the climate
control unit and the driver's air mix control motor.
NO - Go to step 9.
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YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the climate
control unit and the driver's air mix control motor. This short may also
damage the climate control unit. Repair the short to power before
display panel.
DTC B1235 OR DTC INDICATOR K: A PROBLEM IN THE DRIVER'S AIR MIX CONTROL
LINKAGE, DOOR, OR MOTOR
1. Clear the DTC.

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4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1235 or K indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
Are the driver's air mix control motor and linkage OK?
display panel.
NO - Replace the driver's air mix control motor, 4-door (see 4-DOOR ) or
2-door (see 2-DOOR ), or repair the driver's air mix control linkage or
door.
DTC B1239 OR DTC INDICATOR L: AN OPEN OR SHORT IN THE MODE CONTROL MOTOR
CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1239 or L indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
mode control motor circuit.
5. Test the mode control motor.
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Is the mode control motor OK?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the mode control motor.
6. Disconnect the mode control motor 7P (4-door) or 10P (2-door) connector.

connector A (22P) terminals No. 6, 7, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19 individually.
Fig. 37: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground & Audio-HVAC

Display Panel Connector A (22P) Terminals No. 6, 7, 15, 16, 17, 18, And 19
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Individually
control unit and the mode control motor.
NO - Go to step 9.
Fig. 38: Checking Same Terminals For Voltage


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control unit and the mode control motor. This short may also damage the
climate control unit. Repair the short to power before replacing the audio-
HVAC display panel.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between the following
terminals of audio-HVAC display panel connector A (22P) and the mode
control motor 7P (4-door) or 10P (2-door) connector.
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL CONNECTOR A (22P) AND MODE

CONTROL MOTOR 7P CONNECTOR (4-DOOR)
22P 7P
No. 6 No. 1
No. 7 No. 2
No. 15 No. 7
No. 16 No. 3
No. 17 No. 4
No. 18 No. 5
No. 19 No. 6
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Panel Connector A (22P) (4-Door)
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL CONNECTOR A (22P) AND MODE

CONTROL MOTOR 10P CONNECTOR (2-DOOR)
22P 10P
No. 6 No. 1
No. 7 No. 2
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No. 15 No. 10
No. 16 No. 6
No. 17 No. 7
No. 18 No. 8
No. 19 No. 9

Panel Connector A (22P) (2-Door)
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panel connector A (22P) and at the mode control motor 7P (4-door) or 10P
(2-door) connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good
audio-HVAC display panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes
away, replace the original audio-HVAC display panel.
the mode control motor.
DTC B1240 OR DTC INDICATOR M: A PROBLEM IN THE MODE CONTROL LINKAGE, DOORS,
OR MOTOR
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1240 or M indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
5. Test the mode control motor.
Are the mode control motor and linkage OK?

display panel.
NO - Replace the mode control motor, 4-door (see 4-DOOR ) or 2-door
(see 2-DOOR ), or repair the mode control linkage or doors.
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DTC B1241 OR DTC INDICATOR N: A PROBLEM IN THE BLOWER MOTOR CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1241 or N indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
blower motor circuit.
Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 6.
6. Connect the No. 2 (4-door) or No. 1 (2-door) terminal of the blower motor 2P
connector to body ground with a jumper wire.
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Fig. 41: Connecting No. 2 Terminal Of Blower Motor 2P Connector To

Body Ground With Jumper Wire (4-Door)
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Fig. 42: Connecting No. 1 Terminal Of Blower Motor 2P Connector To

Body Ground With Jumper Wire (2-Door)

Does the blower motor run?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 21.
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10. Disconnect the power transistor 4P connector.
11. Check for continuity between the No. 2 (4-door) or No. 3 (2-door) terminal of
the power transistor 4P connector and body ground.
Fig. 43: Checking Continuity Between No. 2 Terminal Of Power

Transistor 4P Connector & Body Ground (4-Door)
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Fig. 44: Checking Continuity Between No. 3 Terminal Of Power

Transistor 4P Connector & Body Ground (2-Door)

NO - Check for an open in the wire between the power transistor and body
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12. Connect the No. 2 and No. 4 (4-door) or No. 1 and No. 3 (2-door) terminals of
the power transistor 4P connector with a jumper wire.
Fig. 45: Connecting No. 2 & No. 4 Terminals Of Power Transistor 4P

Connector With Jumper Wire (4-Door)
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Fig. 46: Connecting No. 1 & No. 3 Terminals Of Power Transistor 4P

Connector With Jumper Wire (2-Door)
Does the blower motor run at high speed?

NO - Repair open in the BLU/BLK wire between the power transistor and
the blower motor.
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16. Disconnect the audio-HVAC display panel connector B (16P).
display panel connector B (16P) and body ground individually.
Fig. 47: Checking Continuity Between No. 1 & No. 2 Terminals Of Audio-
HVAC Display Panel Connector B (16P) & Body Ground Individually
control unit and the power transistor.
NO - Go to step 18.
18. Check the continuity between the following terminals of audio-HVAC display
panel connector B (16P) and the power transistor 4P connector.
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AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL CONNECTOR B (16P) AND POWER

TRANSISTOR 4P (4-DOOR)
16P 4P
No. 1 No. 1
No. 2 No. 3

Panel Connector B (16P) & Power Transistor 4P Connector (4-Door)
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL CONNECTOR B (16P) AND POWER

TRANSISTOR 4P (2-DOOR)
16P 4P
No. 1 No. 4
No. 2 No. 2
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Panel Connector B (16P) & Power Transistor 4P Connector (2-Door)

the power transistor.
19. Reconnect audio-HVAC display panel connector B (16P).
20. Test the power transistor (see POWER TRANSISTOR TEST ).
Is the power transistor OK?
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panel connector B (16P) and at the power transistor 4P connector. If the
NO - Replace the power transistor.
22. Disconnect the blower motor 2P connector.
the blower motor 2P connector and body ground.
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Fig. 50: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of Blower Motor 2P

Connector & Body Ground (4-Door)
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Fig. 51: Measuring Voltage Between No. 2 Terminal Of Blower Motor 2P

Connector & Body Ground (2-Door)
YES - Replace the blower motor.

NO - Go to step 24.
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25. Remove the blower motor relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it
Is the relay OK?

NO - Replace the blower motor relay.
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fuse/relay box and the blower motor relay.
30. Check for continuity between the No. 3 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P
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Fig. 54: Checking For Continuity Between No. 3 Terminal Of Blower

Motor Relay 4P Socket And Body Ground
YES - Repair open in the WHT/BLU wire between the blower motor relay
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and the blower motor.

NO - Check for an open in the wire between the blower motor relay and
DTC B1236 OR DTC INDICATOR O: AN OPEN IN THE PASSENGER'S AIR MIX CONTROL
MOTOR CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1236 or O indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
passenger's air mix control motor circuit.
5. Test the passenger's air mix control motor.
Is the passenger's air mix control motor OK?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the passenger's air mix control motor.
6. Disconnect the passenger's air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door)

connector.
panel connector A (22P) and the passenger's air mix control motor 7P (4-door)
or 5P (2-door) connector.
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PASSENGER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR 7P (4-DOOR)

22P 7P
No. 2 No. 3
No. 10 No. 1
No. 15 No. 5
No. 20 No. 7
No. 22 No. 2

Panel Connector A (22P) & Passenger's Air Mix Control Motor 7P
Connector (4-Door)

PASSENGER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR 5P (2-DOOR)
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22P 5P
No. 2 No. 3
No. 10 No. 2
No. 15 No. 5
No. 20 No. 4
No. 22 No. 1

Panel Connector A (22P) & Passenger's Air Mix Control Motor 5P
Connector (2-Door)
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panel connector A (22P) and at the passenger's air mix control motor 7P
(4-door) or 5P (2-door) connector. If the connections are good, substitute a
known-good audio-HVAC display panel, and recheck. If the
symptom/indication goes away, replace the original audio-HVAC display
panel.
the passenger's air mix control motor.
DTC B1237 OR DTC INDICATOR P: A SHORT IN THE PASSENGER'S AIR MIX CONTROL
MOTOR CIRCUIT
1. Clear the DTC.

4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1237 or P indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
Is the passenger's air mix control motor OK?

YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Replace the passenger's air mix control motor.
6. Disconnect the passenger's air mix control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door)

connector.
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connector A (22P) terminals No. 2, 10, 15, 20 and 22 individually.
HVAC Display Panel Connector A (22P) Terminals No. 2, 10, 15, 20 & 22
Individually
control unit and the passenger's air mix control motor.
NO - Go to step 9.
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Fig. 58: Checking Same Terminals For Voltage

control unit and the passenger's air mix control motor. This short may also
display panel.
DTC B1238 OR DTC INDICATOR Q: A PROBLEM IN THE PASSENGER'S AIR MIX CONTROL
LINKAGE, DOOR, OR MOTOR
1. Clear the DTC.

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4. Check the DTCs.
Is DTC B1238 or Q indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
Is the passenger's air mix control motor and linkage OK?

display panel.
NO - Replace the passenger's air mix control motor, 4-door (see 4-
DOOR ) or 2-door (see 2-DOOR ), or repair the passenger's air mix
control linkage or door.
DTC B1202: CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT INTERNAL ERROR

3. Turn the climate control system on and operate several functions. (A/C on/off,
air mix and blend door operations, temperature settings etc..)
4. Check for DTCs by selecting the DTC MENU (DTCs) from the HDS.
YES - The climate control unit is faulty; replace the audio-HVAC display
panel.
NO - Intermittent failure, the climate control unit is OK at this time.
DTC B1205: CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT LOST COMMUNICATION WITH THE GAUGE
CONTROL MODULE (VSP/NE MESSAGE); DTC B1206: CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT LOST
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COMMUNICATION WITH THE GAUGE CONTROL MODULE (ECT MESSAGE); DTC B1207:
CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT LOST COMMUNICATION WITH THE GAUGE CONTROL MODULE
(ILLUMI MESSAGE)

2. Push the AUTO button.
Does the climate control turn on?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Go to climate control power and ground circuit troubleshooting (see
CLIMATE CONTROL POWER AND GROUND CIRCUIT
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
5. Turn the climate control system on and operate several functions. (A/C on/off,
air mix and blend door operations, temperature settings etc..)
Is DTC B1205, B1206 and/or B1207 indicated?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Intermittent failure, the gauge control module and climate control
unit are OK at this time.
7. Check the DTCs by selecting the DTCs MENU (DTCs) from the HDS.
Is DTC B1008, B1060 and/or B1061 indicated?
YES - Perform the gauge control module input test (see SELF-
DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Disconnect audio-HVAC display panel connector B (16P).
9. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connector N (45P) from the
fuse/relay box.
10. Check for continuity between the No. 22 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box
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connector N (45P) and the No. 14 terminal of the audio-HVAC display panel
connector B (16P).
Fig. 59: Checking Continuity Between No. 22 Terminal Of Under-Dash

Fuse/Relay Box Connector N (45P) & No. 14 Terminal Of Audio-HVAC
Display Panel Connector B (16P)
YES - The gauge control module and/or climate control unit faulty.
Substitute one component at a time and recheck. Replace the component
that eliminates the DTC/symptom.
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the gauge control module and the
climate control unit.
RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Disconnect the recirculation control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P (2-door)
connector.
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control
motor 7P (4-door) or No. 5 terminal of the 5P (2-door) connector and body
ground.
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Control Motor 7P Connector & Body Ground (4-Door)
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Control Motor 5P Connector & Body Ground (2-Door)
YES - Go to step 5.
fuse/relay box and the recirculation control motor.
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6. Test the recirculation control motor.
Is the recirculation control motor OK?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Replace the recirculation control motor, 4-door (see 4-DOOR ) or 2-
door (see 2-DOOR ), or repair the recirculation control linkage or doors.
8. Check for continuity between the No. 10 and No. 11 terminals audio-HVAC
display panel connector B (16P) and body ground individually.
Fig. 62: Checking For Continuity Between No. 10 And No. 11 Terminals
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Audio-HVAC Display Panel Connector B (16P) & Body Ground

Individually
control unit and the recirculation control motor.
NO - Go to step 9.
9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the same wires for voltage.
Fig. 63: Checking Same Wires For Voltage

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control unit and the recirculation control motor. This short may also
NO - Go to step 10.
panel connector B (16P) and the recirculation control motor 7P (4-door) or 5P
(2-door) connector.
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL CONNECTOR B (16P) AND

RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR 7P (4-DOOR)
16P 7P
No. 10 No. 5
No. 11 No. 7
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Panel Connector B (16P) & Recirculation Control Motor 7P Connector (4-
Door)
AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY PANEL CONNECTOR B (16P) AND

RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR 5P (2-DOOR)
16P 5P
No. 10 No. 2
No. 11 No. 1
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Panel Connector B (16P) & Recirculation Control Motor 5P Connector (2-
Door)

panel connector B (16P) and at the recirculation control motor 7P (4-door)
or 5P (2-door) connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-
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the recirculation control motor.
CLIMATE CONTROL POWER AND GROUND CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
connector B (16P) and body ground.
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Display Panel Connector B (16P) And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 30 fuse in the driver's
under-dash fuse/relay box and the climate control unit.
6. Check for continuity between the No. 6 terminal of audio-HVAC display panel
connector B (16P) and body ground.
Fig. 67: Checking For Continuity Between No. 6 Terminal Of Audio-

HVAC Display Panel Connector & Body Ground
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panel connector B (16P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-
NO - Check for an open in the wire between the climate control unit and

following items are operative; condenser fan, A/C
compressor, or if the heater is inoperative. Refer to
INFORMATION ).
1. Check for body DTCs in test mode A of the multiplex integrated control
system (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
TEST MODE A ).
Are there any DTC indicated?

NO - Go to step 2.
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YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 13.
pressure switch.
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A/C Pressure Switch
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YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 14.
10. Measure the voltage between the No. 5 terminal of the audio-HVAC display

Display Panel Connector A (22P) And Body Ground
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NO - Repair open in the wire between the climate control unit and the A/C
pressure switch.
HVAC display panel connector A (22P).

Audio-HVAC Display Panel Connector A (22P)
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panel connector A (22P) and at the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. If
the connections are good, substitute a known-good audio-HVAC display
13. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of under-hood fuse/relay box
connector H (14P) and body ground with the under-hood fuse/relay box
Fig. 72: Measuring Voltage Between No. 2 Terminal Of Under-Hood

Fuse/Relay Box Connector H (14P) & Body Ground
YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and
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NO - Check for loose or poor connections at the No. 2 terminal of the
under-hood fuse/relay box. If the connections are OK, replace the under-
hood fuse/relay box.

IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST
Check for a change in resistance by heating or cooling the sensor with a hair drier.
Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the in-car
temperature sensor with the specifications in the graph shown in Fig. 73; the
resistance should be within the specifications.
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Fig. 73: Checking Resistance By Heating Or Cooling Sensor

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IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the instrument panel (see INSTRUMENT PANEL

2. Remove the self-tapping screw and the in-car temperature sensor (A) from the
instrument panel (B).
Fig. 74: Removing Self-Tapping Screw And In-Car Temperature Sensor

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3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air
hose securely.
OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST
Dip the sensor in ice water, and measure the resistance. Then pour warm water on
the sensor, and check for a change in resistance.
Compare the resistance reading between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the
outside air temperature sensor with the specifications in the graph shown in Fig. 75;
the resistance should be within the specifications.
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Fig. 75: Checking Resistance Between No. 1 And No. 2 Terminals Of Outside
Air Temperature Sensor
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OUTSIDE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT
1. Lift the tab (A) to release the lock, and remove the outside air temperature
sensor (B) from the back of the front bumper beam. Disconnect the 2P
connector (C) from the outside air temperature sensor.
Fig. 76: Releasing Lock & Removing Outside Air Temperature Sensor
SUNLIGHT SENSOR TEST
1. Remove the sunlight sensor, and reconnect the connector.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Measure the voltage between the terminals
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with the (+) probe on the No. 1 terminal and the (-) probe on the No. 2 terminal
with the 2P connector connected. The voltage readings will not change under
the light of a flashlight or a fluorescent lamp. Voltage should be:
3.6-3.7 V or more with the sensor out of direct sunlight.
3.3-3.5 V or less with the sensor in direct sunlight.
Fig. 77: Measuring Voltage Between Terminals

SUNLIGHT SENSOR REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the upper panel from the dashboard (see UPPER PANEL
2. Remove the sunlight sensor (A) from the upper panel (B). Be careful not to
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damage the sensor.
Fig. 78: Removing Sunlight Sensor From Upper Panel

PASSENGER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR TEST
4-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the passenger's air mix control motor.

passenger's air mix control motor will damage it. Follow
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the instructions carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the passenger's air mix control
motor, and ground the No. 2 terminal; the passenger's air mix control motor
should run, and stop at Max Cool. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the
passenger's air mix control motor should run, and stop at Max Hot.
3. If the passenger's air mix control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then
check the passenger's air mix control linkage and door for smooth movement.
If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the passenger's air mix
control motor.
If the passenger's air mix control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
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Fig. 79: Checking Passenger's Air Mix Control Motor (4-Door)

between 4.2 to 7.8 kohms.
5. Reconnect the passenger's air mix control motor 7P connector, then turn the
terminals.

Max Hot-about 4.5 V
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7. If either the resistance or voltage readings are not as specified, replace the
passenger's air mix control motor (see PASSENGER'S AIR MIX
CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).
2-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 5P connector from the passenger's air mix control motor.

passenger's air mix control motor will damage it. Follow
the instructions carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the passenger's air mix control
motor, and ground the No. 2 terminal; the passenger's air mix control motor
should run, and stop at Max Hot. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the
passenger's air mix control motor should run, and stop at Max Cool.
3. If the passenger's air mix control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then
check the passenger's air mix control linkage and door for smooth movement.
If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the passenger's air mix
control motor.
If the passenger's air mix control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
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Fig. 80: Checking Passenger's Air Mix Control Motor (2-Door)

between 4.2 to 7.8 kohms.
5. Reconnect the passenger's air mix control motor 5P connector, then turn the
terminals.
Max Cool-about 10. V

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Max Hot-about 4.0 V

7. If either the resistance or voltage readings are not as specified, replace the
passenger's air mix control motor (see PASSENGER'S AIR MIX
CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).
PASSENGER'S AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the evaporator temperature sensor.

Disconnect the 7P connector (B) from the passenger's air mix control motor
(C). Remove the self-tapping screws and the passenger's air mix control motor
Fig. 81: Disconnecting 2P Connector & Removing Passenger's Air Mix

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2-DOOR
1. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the mode control motor. Disconnect
the 2P connector (B) from the evaporator temperature sensor. Disconnect the
5P connector (C) from the passenger's air mix control motor (D). Remove the
self-tapping screws and the passenger's air mix control motor from the heater
unit.
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Fig. 82: Disconnecting 10P Connector & Removing Passenger's Air Mix
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2003-07 ENGINE Ignition System - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Ignition System - Accord (V6)
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Ignition System Components

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Fig. 2: Ignition System Circuit Diagram

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IGNITION TIMING INSPECTION
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS)to the data link connector (DLC)
(see step 2IF THE MIL (MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP) HAS
COME ON ), and check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair
the cause before inspecting the ignition timing.
2. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Neutral)
until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
3. Check the idle speed (see IDLE SPEED INSPECTION ).
4. Select "SCS" mode using the HDS.
5. Connect the timing light to the service loop.
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Fig. 3: Connecting Timing Light To Service Loop

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6. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the timing belt cover. Check the
ignition timing under a no load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear window
defogger, and air conditioner are turned off).
Ignition Timing
M/T: 10+/-2 BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in Neutral
A/T: 10+/-2 BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in Park or Neutral
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Fig. 4: Checking Ignition Timing

7. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If
the cam timing is OK, update the engine control module (ECM)/ powertrain
control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software (see ECM/PCM
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UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING ), or substitute a

known-good ECM/PCM (see HOW TO SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ),
then recheck. If the system works properly, and the ECM/PCM was
substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM
REPLACEMENT ).
8. Disconnect the HDS and the timing light.
9. Secure the service loop to the wire harness with wire ties.
IGNITION COIL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1. Remove the ignition coil cover.
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Fig. 5: Identifying Ignition Coil Cover

2. Disconnect the ignition coil connectors (A), then remove the front bank
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ignition coils (B).
Fig. 6: Identifying Ignition Coil Connectors

3. Disconnect the ignition coil connectors (A), then remove the rear bank ignition
coils (B).
6x 1.0 mm
12Nm(1.2kgfm,8.7lbfft)
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Fig. 7: Identifying Rear Bank Ignition Coils

4. Install the ignition coils in the reverse order of removal.

IGNITION COIL RELAY CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Check the No. 2 (15 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
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Is the fuse OK?

YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse.
2. Remove the ignition coil relay from the under-dash fuse/relay box, and test it
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Replace the ignition coil relay.
3. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and
body ground, then terminal No. 4 and body ground.
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Fig. 8: Measuring Voltage Between Ignition Coil Relay 4P Socket

Terminal 1 And Body Ground
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.

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4. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and
the No. 1 ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3.
Fig. 9: Checking Continuity Between Ignition Coil Relay 4P Socket

Terminal 2 And 1 Ignition Coil 3P Connector Terminal 3
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal
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No. 2 and No. 1 ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3.

body ground.

Terminal 3 And Body Ground
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YES - Repair a short in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal
No. 3 and the PCM (E5).
NO - Go to step 6.
engine control module (ECM)/ powertrain control module (PCM) connector
terminal A5.
Fig. 11: Checking Continuity Between Coil Relay 4P Socket Terminal 3

And Control Module (ECM)/ Control Module (PCM) Connector Terminal
A5
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YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at
the ignition coil relay and the ECM/PCM A5.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal
No. 3 and the ECM/ PCM(A5).
SPARK PLUG INSPECTION
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and the ceramic insulator.
Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by:
- Advanced ignition timing

- Loose spark plug
- Plug heat range too hot
- Insufficient cooling
Fouled plug may be caused by:
- Retarded ignition timing

- Oil in combustion chamber
- Incorrect spark plug gap
- Plug heat range too cold
- Excessive idling/low speed running
- Clogged air cleaner element
- Deteriorated ignition coils
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Fig. 12: Inspecting Electrodes And Ceramic Insulator

2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a
plug cleaner.
NOTE: Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium

electrode since this will damage the electrode.
When using a sand plaster spark plug cleaner, do
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not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid

damaging the electrode.
3. Do not adjust the gap (A) of iridium tip plugs; replace the spark plug if the gap
is out of specification.
Electrode Gap
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Fig. 13: Inspecting Spark Plug Gap

4. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded
(A). Use only the spark plugs listed.
Spark Plugs
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NGK: IZFR6K11
DENSO: SKJ20DR-M11
Fig. 14: Inspecting Spark Plug Center Electrode

5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw
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the plugs into the cylinder head, finger-tight. Then torque them to 18N.m
(1.8kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft).
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2003-07 ENGINE Ignition System - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Ignition System - Accord
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Ignition System Component Location

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 2: Ignition System Circuit Diagram

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IGNITION TIMING INSPECTION
(see step 2 on HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC
SYSTEM) ), and check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the
cause before inspecting the ignition timing.
2. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Neutral) until
the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
3. Check the idle speed (see IDLE SPEED INSPECTION ).
4. Select "SCS" mode using the HDS.
5. Free the service loop from the wire harness, then connect the timing light to the
service loop.
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Fig. 3: Connecting Timing Light To Service Loop

6. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition
timing under a no load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear window
defogger, and air conditioner are turned off).
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Fig. 4: Aiming Pointer On Cam Chain Case

7. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If
the cam timing is OK, update the engine control module (ECM)/ powertrain
control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software (see UPDATING
SUBSTITUTE THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck. If the system works
properly, and the ECM/PCM was substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM
(see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ).
8. Disconnect the HDS and the timing light.
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9. Secure the service loop to the wire harness with wire ties.
IGNITION COIL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1. Remove the ignition coil cover (A), disconnect the ignition coil connectors (B),
then remove the ignition coils (C).
Fig. 5: Removing Ignition Coil Cover

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2. Install the ignition coils in the reverse order of removal.

IGNITION COIL RELAY CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Check the No. 2 (15A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse.
2. Remove the ignition coil relay from the under-dash fuse/relay box, and test it
Is the relay OK?

YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Replace the ignition coil relay.
3. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and
body ground, then terminal No. 4 and body ground.
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Fig. 6: Measuring The Voltage Between Ignition Coil Relay 4P Socket

YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
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the No. 1 ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3.

Terminal And Ignition Coil 3P Connector Terminal
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair an open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket
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terminal No. 2 and ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3.

body ground.

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YES - Repair a short in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket
terminal No. 3 and the ECM/PCM (E7).
NO - Go to step 6.
engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) connector
terminal E7.

Terminal And Engine Control Module Connector Terminal
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YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections
at the ignition coil relay and the ECM/PCM (E7).
NO - Repair an open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket
terminal No. 3 and the ECM/PCM (E7).
SPARK PLUG INSPECTION
1. Inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator.

Burned or worn electrodes may be caused by:
-Advanced ignition timing

-Loose spark plug
-Plug heat range too hot
-Insufficient cooling
Fouled plug may be caused by:
-Retarded ignition timing

-Oil in combustion chamber
-Incorrect spark plug gap
-Plug heat range too cold
-Excessive idling/low speed running
-Clogged air cleaner element
-Deteriorated ignition coils
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Fig. 10: Inspecting The Electrodes And Ceramic Insulator

2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a
plug cleaner.
NOTE: Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium

electrode since this will damage the electrode.
When using a sand blaster spark plug cleaner, do
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not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid

damaging the electrode.
3. Do not adjust the gap (A) or iridium tip plugs; replace the spark plug if the gap
is out of specification.
Fig. 11: Identifying Gap Of Iridium Tip Plugs

4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, if the center electrode is rounded (A).
Use only the spark plugs listed.
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Fig. 12: Replacing Plug

5. Apply a small amount of anti seize compound to the plug threads, and screw
the plugs into the cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 18 Nm (1.8
kgf m, 13 ibfft
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2003-07 ENGINE Intake Manifold And Exhaust Systems - Accord (V6)
2003-07 ENGINE
Intake Manifold And Exhaust Systems - Accord (V6)
INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

EXPLODED VIEW
Fig. 1: Exploded View Of Intake Manifold

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2006 Honda Accord

REMOVAL
1. Remove the ignition coil cover (see IGNITION COIL

2. Remove the breather pipe, then remove the air intake duct.
3. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose (A), brake booster
vacuum hose (B), evaporative emission (EVAP) canister hose (C), and vacuum
hose (D).
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Fig. 2: Identifying PCV Hose

4. Remove the water bypass hoses (A), and plug them.
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Fig. 3: Identifying Water Bypass Hoses

5. Remove these engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from
Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector
Throttle actuator connector
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor connector
Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector
Engine mount control solenoid valve connector
Intake manifold tuning (IMT) (Intake manifold runner control (IMRC))

actuator connector (M/T)
6. Remove the upper cover mounting bolts and nuts sequentially in two or three
steps, then remove the upper cover.
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Fig. 4: Identifying Upper Cover Mounting Bolts And Nuts

7. Remove the intake manifold mounting bolts and nuts sequentially in two or
three steps, then remove the intake manifold and spacer.
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Fig. 5: Identifying Intake Manifold Mounting Bolts And Nuts

8. Remove the intake manifold.

INSTALLATION
1. Put a new gasket and the spacer on the injector base.

2. Install the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts and nuts sequentially in two or
three steps. Always use a new intake manifold gasket.
Specified torque
8 x 1.25 mm: 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft)

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Fig. 6: Identifying Intake Manifold Bolts And Nuts

3. Install the upper cover. Tighten the bolts and nuts sequentially in two or three
steps. Always use a new gasket.
Specified torque
6 x 1.0 mm: 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft)
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Fig. 7: Identifying Intake Manifold Upper Cover Bolts And Nuts

4. Install the water bypass hoses (A).
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Fig. 8: Identifying Water Bypass Hoses

5. Connect the engine wire harness connectors, and install the wire harness
clamps to the intake manifold.
Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector
Throttle actuator connector
Evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector
Engine mount control solenoid valve connector
Intake manifold tuning (IMT) (Intake manifold runner control (IMRC))

actuator connector (M/T)
6. Install the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose (A), brake booster
vacuum hose (B), evaporative emission (EVAP) canister hose (C), and vacuum
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hose (D).
Fig. 9: Identifying PCV Hose

7. Install the air intake duct, then install the breather pipe.
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correctly.
10. Install the ignition coil cover (see IGNITION COIL
with the heater valve open (see step 8 COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Use new gaskets and self-locking nuts when reassembling.
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Fig. 10: Exploded View Of Exhaust Pipe And Muffler

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2003-07 ENGINE Intake Manifold And Exhaust System - Accord
2003-07 ENGINE
Intake Manifold And Exhaust System - Accord
INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

EXPLODED VIEW
2003-2005 Models
Fig. 1: Exploded View Of Intake Manifold '03-05 Models)

EXPLODED VIEW
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2007 Honda Accord
2006 Model
Fig. 2: Exploded View Of Intake Manifold ('06-07 Models)

1. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector (A).
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duct (D).
3. Remove the engine cover.
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4. Remove the throttle cable (A) and cruise control actuator cable (B) by
loosening the locknuts (C), then slipping the cable ends out of the accelerator
linkage. Take care not to bend the cables when removing them. Always replace
any kinked cable with a new one.
Fig. 5: Removing Throttle Cable And Cruise Control Actuator Cable

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vacuum hose (B).

intake manifold.
Idle air control (IAC) valve connector
Throttle position sensor connector
7. Remove the bolt (A) securing the harness holder, and remove the harness
clamps (B).
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Fig. 7: Removing Bolt (A) Securing Harness Holder

8. Remove and plug the water bypass hoses.
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Fig. 8: Removing And Plug Water Bypass Hoses

9. Remove the harness clamp (A), and the harness connector (B) from the intake
manifold bracket, then remove the intake manifold bracket (C).
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Fig. 9: Removing Harness Clamp (A), And Harness Connector

10. Remove the vacuum hose (A/T).
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Fig. 10: Removing Vacuum Hose (A/T)

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Fig. 11: Removing Intake Manifold

1. Install the intake manifold (A) with a new gasket (B), and tighten the bolts/nuts
in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps, beginning with the inner bolt.
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Fig. 12: Installing Intake Manifold With Gasket

2. Install the vacuum hose (A/T).
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Fig. 13: Installing Vacuum Hose (A/T)

3. Install the intake manifold bracket (A), then install the harness clamp (B), and
harness connector (C) to the intake manifold bracket.
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Fig. 14: Installing Intake Manifold Bracket

4. Install the water bypass hoses.
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Fig. 15: Installing Water Bypass Hoses

5. Tighten the bolt (A) securing the harness holder, and install the harness clamps
(B).
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Fig. 16: Tightening Bolt Securing Harness Holder

vacuum hose (B).
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7. Install the throttle cable (see THROTTLE CABLE

REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ), then adjust the cable (see THROTTLE
CABLE ADJUSTMENT ).
8. Install the cruise control actuator cable (see CRUISE CONTROL
ACTUATOR/CABLE REPLACEMENT ), then adjust the cable (see
CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR CABLE ADJUSTMENT ).
9. Install the engine cover.
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10. Install the intake air duct (A), then connect the intake air temperature (IAT)
sensor connector (B), and install the vacuum hose (C) and breather pipe (D).
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Fig. 19: Installing Vacuum Hose And Breather Pipe

correctly.
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1. Remove the vacuum hose (A) and breather pipe (B), then remove the intake air
duct (C).

2. Remove the engine cover.
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vacuum hose (B).
Fig. 22: Removing Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Hose And

Brake Booster Vacuum Hose
intake manifold.
5. Throttle actuator connector
6. Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor connector
7. Remove the harness holder (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
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Fig. 23: Removing Harness Holder

8. Remove and plug the water bypass hoses.
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Fig. 24: Removing And Plug Water Bypass Hoses

9. Remove the harness clamp (A) and the harness connector (B) from the intake
manifold bracket, then remove the intake manifold bracket (C).
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Fig. 25: Removing Harness Clamp And Harness Connector

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10. Remove the vacuum hose.

A/T model:
Fig. 26: Removing Vacuum Hose - A/T Model

M/T model:
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Fig. 27: Removing Vacuum Hose - M/T Model

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Fig. 28: Removing Intake Manifold

INSTALLATION '06-07 MODEL)
1. Install the intake manifold (A) with a new gasket (B), and tighten the bolts/nuts
in a crisscross pattern in two or three steps, beginning with the inner bolt.
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Fig. 29: Installing Intake Manifold

2. Install the vacuum hose.
A/T model:
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Fig. 30: Installing Vacuum Hose A/T Model

M/T model:
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Fig. 31: Installing Vacuum Hose M/T Model

3. Install the intake manifold bracket (A), then install the harness clamp (B), and
harness connector (C) to the intake manifold bracket.
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Fig. 32: Installing Harness Clamp, And Harness Connector To Intake

Manifold Bracket
4. Install the water bypass hoses.
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Fig. 33: Installing Water Bypass Hoses

5. Install the harness holder (A), and install the harness clamp (B).
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Fig. 34: Installing Harness Holder

6. Reconnect the MAP sensor and throttle actuator connectors.

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7. Install the EVAP canister hose (A) and brake booster vacuum hose (B).
Fig. 35: Installing EVAP Canister Hose And Brake Booster Vacuum Hose
8. Install the Engine cover.
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9. Install the intake air duct (A), then connect the IAT sensor connector (B), and
install the vacuum hose (C) and breather pipe (D).
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correctly.
with the heater valve open (see COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Remove the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve) (see
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ROCKER ARM OIL CONTROL SOLENOID (VTEC SOLENOID

VALVE) ASSEMBLY REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
2. Remove the driveshafts heat shield (A/T) (see step 11 on DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL ).
3. Remove the cover and exhaust manifold bracket, then remove the exhaust
manifold.
Fig. 38: Removing Cover And Exhaust Manifold Bracket

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4. Install the exhaust manifold and tighten the bolts/nuts in a crisscross pattern in
two or three steps, beginning with the inner nut.
EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER REPLACEMENT

'03-05 MODELS
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Fig. 39: Replacing Exhaust Pipe And Muffler (2003-2005 Models)


'06-07 MODELS
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Fig. 40: Replacing Exhaust Pipe And Muffler (2006 Model)

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Interior Trim - Accord
Interior Trim - Accord

2-DOOR
Fig. 1: Locating Components Of Interior Trim (2-Door)

4-DOOR
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Fig. 2: Locating Components Of Interior Trim (4-Door)

TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - DOOR AREA

2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA

Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and panels.
1. Left side: Remove the foot rest (see step 5 in CARPET REPLACEMENT ).
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2. Left side: Remove the front side cap from the door sill trim, and remove the
opener lock cylinder and bolt (see TRUNK LID OPENER/FUEL FILL
DOOR OPENER REPLACEMENT ).
3. Detach the hooks (A) and tabs (B) from the kick panel (C) and side trim panel
(D), and pull the door sill trim (E) up by hand to detach the clips (F), then
remove it.
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Fig. 3: Detaching Hooks & Tabs From Kick Panel And Side Trim Panel
4. Disconnect the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable (G) from the opener
(H).
5. If necessary, pull the side outer trim (I) up to detach the clips (J), then remove
the trim.
6. Remove the left kick panel (A) or the right kick panel (B).
-1 Pull out the door opening trim (C) as needed from the kick panel hooks
(D) and the door opening flange.
-2 Left side: Pull the hood release handle, and hold it.
-3 Pull the kick panel back by hand to detach the clips (E, F, G), then
remove it.
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Fig. 4: Removing Left Kick Panel Or Right Kick Panel

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7. Pull out the door opening trim (A) from the trim hooks (B) and around the door
opening flange, then remove the trim.
Fig. 5: Removing Door Opening Trim From Trim Hooks Around Door
Opening Flange
8. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
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new ones.
Push the clips and hooks into place securely.
Make sure the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable is connected
securely.

4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA

1. Left side: Remove the footrest (see step 5 in CARPET REPLACEMENT ).

2. Left side: Remove the front side cap from the front door sill trim, and remove
the opener lock cylinder and bolt (see TRUNK LID OPENER/FUEL FILL
DOOR OPENER REPLACEMENT ).
3. Detach the hooks (A) and tabs (B) from the kick panel (C) and B-pillar lower
trim (D), and pull the front door sill trim (E) up by hand to detach the clips (F)
or (G), then remove it.
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Fig. 6: Detaching Hooks & Tabs From Kick Panel And B-Pillar Lower
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Trim
4. Disconnect the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable (H) from the opener
(I).
5. If necessary, pull the front side outer trim (J) up to detach the clips (K), then
remove the trim.
6. Remove the left kick panel (A) or the right kick panel (B).
-1 Pull out the door opening trim (C) as needed from the kick panel hooks
(D) and the door opening flange.
-2 Left side: Pull the hood release handle, and hold it.
-3 Pull the kick panel back by hand to detach the clips (E, F, G), then
remove it.
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Fig. 7: Removing Left Kick Panel Or Right Kick Panel

7. Pull out the front door opening trim (A) from the trim hooks (B) and around
the front door opening flange, then remove the trim.
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Fig. 8: Removing Front Door Opening Trim

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new ones.
Make sure the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable is connected
securely.

4-DOOR - REAR DOOR SILL AREA

1. Detach the hook (A) and tab (B) from the B-pillar lower trim (C), and pull the
rear door sill trim (D) up by hand to detach the clips (E), then remove it.
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Fig. 9: Detaching Hooks And Tabs From B-Pillar Lower Trim

2. If necessary, pull the rear side outer trim (F) up to detach the clips (G), then
remove the trim.
3. Pull out the rear door opening trim (A) from the trim hooks (B) and around the
rear door opening flange, then remove the trim.
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Fig. 10: Removing Rear Door Opening Trim

new ones.
TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREA

A-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS)

1. Pull out the door opening trim (A) as needed. Pull the upper portion of the A-
pillar trim (B) back by hand to detach the clips, and pull the trim up, then
remove it from the dashboard (C).
NOTE: The 2-door is shown, the 4-door is similar.
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Fig. 11: Pulling Out Door Opening Trim

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new ones.
Push the clips into place securely.

2-DOOR-B-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS)


C-pillar trim, front portion as needed (see 2-DOOR-C-PILLAR -
WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) )
Side trim panel, upper portion as needed (see TRIM
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR SIDE AREA )
Door opening trim, as needed (see step 7 in 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL
AREA )
2. Remove the front seat belt upper anchor bolt (see step 6 in FRONT SEAT
BELT - 2-DOOR ).
3. Remove the B-pillar upper trim (A).
-1 Remove the clip (B) from the seat belt guide (C).
-2 Pull out the trim by hand to detach the clips (D), and to release the
hooks (E) in the numbered sequence shown in Fig. 12.
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Fig. 12: Removing B-Pillar Upper Trim

new ones.
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the front seat belt upper
anchor bolt before reinstallation (see step 9 in FRONT SEAT BELT - 2-
DOOR ).
Before installing the anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in
the seat belt.
When installing the side trim panel, make sure the seat belt is not pinched.

4-DOOR - B-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS)


Front door sill trim (see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA )
Rear door sill trim (see 4-DOOR - REAR DOOR SILL AREA )
Front door opening trim, as needed (see step 7 in 4-DOOR - FRONT

DOOR SILL AREA )
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Rear door opening trim, as needed (see step 3 in 4-DOOR - REAR

DOOR SILL AREA )
2. Remove the B-pillar lower trim (A).
-1 Detach the lower clips by pulling the bottom of the trim back by hand.
-2 Pull the trim down to release the upper hooks (B).
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Fig. 13: Removing B-Pillar Lower Trim

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3. Remove the upper anchor cover, and remove the upper anchor bolt (see step 7
in FRONT SEAT BELT - 4-DOOR ).
-1 Pull the bottom of the trim back by hand to detach the lower clip.
-2 Detach the upper clip by pulling the top of the trim.
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new ones.
anchor bolt before reinstallation (see step 12 on FRONT SEAT BELT -
4-DOOR ).
the seat belt.

2-DOOR-C-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS)

1. Remove the rear seat cushion (see REAR SEAT

2. Remove the rear seat belt lower anchor bolt (see step 2 in REAR SEAT BELT
REPLACEMENT ).
3. Left side: Pull the coat hanger (A) down, and remove the coat hanger cover (B)
by releasing the hook (C), then remove the screw (D).
Right side: Remove the right C-pillar cap (E) by releasing the hooks (F), then
remove the screw (G).
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Fig. 15: Pulling & Removing Coat Hanger Cover Releasing Hook (Left
Side)
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Fig. 16: Removing Right C-Pillar Cap Releasing Hooks (Right Side)
4. Remove the C-pillar trim (A).

-1 Pull the front edge of the trim down to detach the hooks (B) and clips
(C) from the B-pillar upper trim (D).
-2 Pull out the trim to detach the clips (E).
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-3 Pull out the bottom portion of the trim to detach the hooks (F) from the
rear shelf (G) and the side trim panel (H).
-4 Pass the rear seat belt (I) out through the slit in the trim.
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Fig. 17: Removing C-Pillar Trim

new ones.
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the anchor bolt before
reinstallation (see step 6 in REAR SEAT BELT REPLACEMENT ).
the belt.

4-DOOR-C-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS)


Rear seat side bolster (see 4-DOOR )

DOOR SILL AREA )
2. Pull the C-pillar trim (A) back by hand to detach the clips, then remove it.
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Fig. 18: Pulling C-Pillar Trim Back To Detach Clips

new ones.
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A-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS)

1. Remove the A-pillar trim (A).

-1 Pull out the door opening trim (B) as needed.
-2 Pry the A-pillar cap (C) out until it is stopped by the hooks (D). Release
the hooks and pull the cap out of the grommet (E). Discard the cap.
-3 Pull the trim back by hand to detach the clip, then pull the trim up.
NOTE: The 2-door is shown, the 4-door is similar.
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Fig. 19: Removing A-Pillar Trim

new ones.
Do not reuse the A-pillar cap; always replace it.
If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the A-pillar trim with a
new one.
To prevent the side curtain airbag from accidentally deploying, removed
trim pieces should be checked for these types of damage:
-Any cracks, deformations, or press-whitenings in the A-pillar trim
(A)
-Any cracks, or press-whitenings in the grommet and clip seating
surfaces (B)
-Bent or broken grommet (C)
Replace any damaged parts with new ones.
Make sure the top of the trim overlaps with the headliner correctly (see
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE HEADLINER/PILLAR TRIM
OVERLAP ).
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Fig. 20: Installing A-PILLAR - With Side Curtain Airbags ('04-07 Models)
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2-DOOR - B-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS)


C-pillar trim, front portion as needed (see 2-DOOR -C-PILLAR - WITH
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) )
Side trim panel, upper portion as needed (see TRIM
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR SIDE AREA )
Door opening trim, as needed (see step 7 in 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL
AREA )
2. Remove the front seat belt upper anchor bolt (see step 6 in FRONT SEAT
BELT - 2-DOOR ).
-1 Remove the clip (B) from the seat belt guide (C).
-2 Pull out the trim by hand to detach the clips (D), and to release the
hooks (E) from the side curtain airbag B-pillar bracket (F) in the numbered
sequence.
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new ones.
If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the B-pillar upper trim with
new one.
-Any cracks or deformations in the B-pillar upper trim (A) and the
upper hooks (B), and any press-whitenings in the upper part of the
trim
-Any cracks or press-whitenings in the clip seating surface (C)
OVERLAP ).
Make sure the trim hooks are installed into the holes in the side curtain
airbag B-pillar bracket securely.
DOOR ).
the seat belt.
When installing the side trim panel, make sure the seat belt is not pinched.
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Fig. 22: Installing B-Pillar Upper Trim


4-DOOR - B-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS)


Front door opening trim, as needed (see step 7 in 4-DOOR - FRONT

DOOR SILL AREA )
DOOR SILL AREA )
2. Remove the B-pillar lower trim (A).
-1 Detach the lower clips by pulling the bottom of the trim back by hand.
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Fig. 23: Removing B-Pillar Lower Trim

3. Remove the upper anchor cover, and remove the upper anchor bolt (see step 7
in FRONT SEAT BELT - 4-DOOR ).
-1 Pull the bottom of the trim back by hand to detach the lower clip.
-2 Detach the upper clip by pulling the top of the trim.
-3 Pull the trim down to release the upper hooks (B) from the side curtain
airbag B-pillar bracket (C).
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new ones.
If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the B-pillar upper trim with
a new one.
trim pieces should be checked for these kinds of damage:
-Any cracks or deformations in the B-pillar upper trim (A) and the
upper hooks (B), and any press-whitenings in the upper part of the
trim
-Any cracks or deformations in the B-pillar lower trim (C), and any
breakages in the part (D) fitted with the B-pillar upper trim
-Any cracks or press-whitenings in the clip seating surfaces (E)
Check the clips for damage or stress-whitening, and if necessary, replace
them with new ones.
OVERLAP ).
Make sure the trim hooks are installed into the holes in the side curtain
airbag B-pillar bracket securely.
DOOR ).
the seat belt.
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Fig. 25: Installing B-Pillar Upper Trim


2-DOOR - C-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS)

1. Remove the rear seat cushion (see 2-DOOR ).

2. Remove the rear seat belt lower anchor bolt (see step 2 in REAR SEAT BELT
- 2-DOOR ).
3. Left side: Pull the coat hanger (A) down, and remove the coat hanger cover (B)
by releasing the hook (C), then remove the screw (D).
Right side: Remove the right C-pillar cap (E) by releasing the hooks (F), then
remove the screw (G).
Left side
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Fig. 26: Pulling Coat Hanger And Removing Coat Hanger Cover (Left
Side)
Right side
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Fig. 27: Removing Right C-Pillar Cap Releasing Hooks (Right Side)

-1 Pry the C-pillar cap (B) out until it is stopped by the hooks (C). Release
the hooks and pull the cap out of the grommet (D). Discard the cap.
-2 Pull the front edge of the trim down to detach the hooks (E) and clips
(F) from the B-pillar upper trim (G).
-3 Pull out the trim to detach the clips (H).
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-4 Pull out the bottom portion of the trim to detach the hooks (I) from the
rear shelf (J) and the side trim panel (K).
-5 Pass the rear seat belt (L) out though a slit in the trim.
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new ones.
Do not reuse the C-pillar cap; always replace it.
If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the C-pillar trim with new
one.
-Any cracks, deformations, or press-whitenings in the C-pillar trim
(A)
surfaces (B)
OVERLAP ).
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the anchor bolt before
reinstallation (see step 6 in REAR SEAT BELT - 2-DOOR ).
the seat belt.
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Fig. 29: Installing 2-Door - C-Pillar - With Side Curtain Airbags ('04-
07 Models)
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4-DOOR - C-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS)


Rear seat side bolster (see 4-DOOR )

DOOR SILL AREA )
-1 Pry the C-pillar cap (B) out until it is stopped by the hooks (C). Release
the hooks and pull the cap out of the grommet (D). Discard the cap.
-2 Pull the C-pillar trim back by hand to detach the clips, then remove the
trim.
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new ones.
Do not reuse the C-pillar cap; always replace it.
If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the C-pillar trim with new
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one.
-Any cracks, deformations, or press-whitenings in the C-pillar trim
(A)
surfaces (B)

OVERLAP ).
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Fig. 31: Installing 4-Door - C-Pillar - With Side Curtain Airbags ('04-
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07 Models)
TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR SIDE AREA

2-DOOR


Rear seat-back and seat cushion (see REAR SEAT
Door sill trim, as needed (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION -
DOOR AREAS )
C-pillar trim, without side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR - C-PILLAR -
WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) ), with
side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR - C-PILLAR - WITH SIDE
Rear bulkhead cover (see step 2 in 2-DOOR )
Rear speaker grille (see step 4 in 2-DOOR )
Rear shelf, as needed (see step 5 in 2-DOOR )
2. Remove the side trim panel (A).

-1 Remove the clip (B).
-2 Pull out the front upper edge of the trim panel by hand to release the
hooks (C) from the B-pillar upper trim (D).
-3 Pull the trim panel back by hand to detach the clips (E).
-4 While pulling the rear shelf (F) up, pull the trim panel out and forward
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to release it from the rear clip (G).
Fig. 32: Removing Side Trim Panel

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Before reinstalling the side trim panel, remove the remaining rear clip
from the body, and install in on the side trim panel.
new ones.
Make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt and that it is not
pinched by the side trim panel.
TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR SHELF AREA

2-DOOR

1. Remove the C-pillar trim from both sides, without side curtain airbags (see 2-
DOOR - C-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04
MODELS) ), with side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR - C-PILLAR - WITH
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) ).
2. Remove the rear bulkhead cover (A).
-1 Pull the upper edge of the cover back to detach the hooks (B) and clips.
-2 Pull the bottom edge of the cover back to detach the hooks (C) from the
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body flange.
Fig. 33: Removing Rear Bulkhead Cover

3. '03-05 models: Remove the high mount brake light (A).

-1 From the trunk compartment, disconnect the high mount brake light
bulb socket (B).
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-2 Push the high mount brake light towards the rear window, and gently
pry up at the back to release the front hooks (C).
-3 Release the rear hooks (D), then remove the high mount brake light.
Fig. 34: Removing High Mount Brake Light ('03-05 Models)

4. From both sides, pull the rear speaker grille (A) up to detach the clips, then
remove the rear speaker grille.
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Fig. 35: Pulling Rear Speaker Grille Up

5. Remove the rear shelf (A).

-1 From the trunk compartment, release the hooks (B) from the rear seat-
back lock cylinder (C), then remove the lock cylinder trim (D).
-2 Lift the rear shelf to detach the clips.
-3 Release both rear corner edges (E) of the rear shelf from the rear
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window opening flange (F), and pull the rear shelf toward the front of the
vehicle.
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Fig. 36: Removing Rear Shelf ('03-05 Model)

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Fig. 37: Removing Rear Shelf ('06-07 Model)

6. Pull the rear center seat belt (G) out through the slit (H) in the rear shelf.
7. Install the shelf in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
new ones.
When installing the rear shelf, slip the rear center seat belt through the slit
in the rear shelf.
Make sure the high mount brake light bulb socket is connected securely.

4-DOOR

1. Remove the C-pillar trim from both sides, without side curtain airbags (see 4-
DOOR - C-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04
MODELS) ), with side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - C-PILLAR - WITH
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) ).
2. Remove the rear bulkhead cover (A).
-1 Pull the upper edge of the cover back to detach the hooks (B) and clips.
-2 Pull the bottom edge of the cover back to release the cover from the
body flange.
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Fig. 38: Removing Rear Bulkhead Cover

3. '03-05 models: Remove the high mount brake light (A).
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-1 From the trunk compartment, disconnect the high mount brake light
bulb socket (B).
-2 Push the high mount brake light towards the rear window, and gently
pry up at the back to release the front hooks (C).
-3 Release the rear hooks (D), then remove the high mount brake light.
Fig. 39: Removing High Mount Brake Light ('03-05 Models)

4. From both sides, pull the rear speaker grille (A) up to detach the clips (B, C),
then remove the rear speaker grille.
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Fig. 40: Pulling Rear Speaker Grille Up

5. Remove the rear shelf (A).

-1 Pull the lock cylinder trim (B) up to release the hooks (C), then remove
the trim from the rear seat-back lock cylinder (D).
-2 Lift the rear shelf to detach the clips.
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-3 Pull the rear shelf toward the front of the vehicle.
Fig. 41: Removing Rear Shelf ('03-5 Models)

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Fig. 42: Removing Rear Shelf ('06-07 Models)

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6. Pull both rear seat belts (E) and rear center seat belt (F) out through the slits
(G) in the rear shelf.
7. Install the shelf in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
new ones.
When installing the rear shelf, slip the rear seat belts and center seat belt
through the slits in the rear shelf.
Make sure the high mount brake light bulb socket is connected securely.
TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TRUNK AREA

2-DOOR

1. Remove the clip, then remove the spare tire lid (A).
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Fig. 43: Removing Spare Tire Lid

2. Detach the clips, and release the hooks (A) by pulling the trunk rear trim panel
(B) up, then remove it.
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Fig. 44: Detaching Clips And Releasing Hooks Pulling Trunk Rear Trim
Panel Up
3. Remove the left trunk side trim panel (A) and the right trunk side trim panel
(B).
-1 Right side: Remove the trunk hook (C), the jack cover (D), and the jack
(E).
-2 Remove the hook bolts (F) and clips.
-3 Remove the trim panels from the trunk compartment. Left side: Release
the trunk lid opener cable (G) from the slit (H) in the trim panel.
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Fig. 45: Removing Left & Right Trunk Side Trim Panels
new ones.

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2. Detach the clips, and release the hooks (A) by pulling the trunk rear trim panel
(B) up, then remove it.
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Panel
(B).
(E).
-2 Remove the clips.
the trunk lid opener cable (F) from the slit (G) in the trim panel.
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new ones.
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2. Detach the clips (A, B), and release the hooks (C) by pulling the trunk rear trim
panel (D) up, then remove it.
Panel Up
(B).
(E).
-2 Remove the clips.
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the trunk lid opener cable (F) from the slit (G) in the trim panel.
new ones.
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TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TRUNK LID

2-DOOR

Take care not to bend or scratch the trim.
1. Using the appropriate tool from the KTC tool set, detach the clips (A, B, C),
then remove the trunk lid trim (D). Take care not to scratch the trunk lid.
Fig. 52: Detaching Clips And Removing Trunk Lid Trim

new ones.
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4-DOOR

Take care not to bend or scratch the trim.
1. Using the appropriate tool from the KTC tool set, detach the clips (A, B, C),
then remove the trunk lid trim (D). Take care not to scratch the trunk lid.
Fig. 53: Detaching Clips And Removing Trunk Lid Trim

new ones.
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HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

Take care not to bend or scratch the headliner.
Be careful not to damage the dashboard and other
interior trim.

A-pillar trim, both sides, 2-door without side curtain airbag (see A-
MODELS) ), 2-door with side curtain airbag (see A-PILLAR - WITH
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) ), 4-door without side
curtain airbag (see A-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) ) or 4-door with side curtain airbag (see
A-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) )
Ceiling light (see CEILING LIGHT REPLACEMENT )
Front seat belt upper anchor, both sides, 2-door (see step 7 in FRONT
SEAT BELT - 2-DOOR ), 4-door (see step 7 in FRONT SEAT BELT -
4-DOOR )
B-pillar lower trim, 4-door without side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - B-
MODELS) ), 4-door with side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - B-
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B-pillar upper trim, both sides, 2-door without side curtain airbags (see 2-
DOOR - B-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04
MODELS) ), 2-door with side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR -B-PILLAR
- WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) ), 4-door
without side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - B-PILLAR - WITHOUT
SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) ) or 4-door with side
curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - B-PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN
AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) )
C-pillar trim, both sides, 2-door without side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR
- C-PILLAR - WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04
MODELS) ), 2-door with side curtain airbags (see 2-DOOR - C-
PILLAR - WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-07 MODELS) ), 4-
door without side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - C-PILLAR -
WITHOUT SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('03-04 MODELS) ) or 4-door
with side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - C-PILLAR - WITH SIDE
2. From both sides, using a trim tool, release the tabs (A), then turn the sunvisor
cap (B), and remove it from the bracket (C).
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Fig. 54: Releasing Tabs & Turning Sunvisor Cap

3. From both sides, remove the sunvisor (A) and holder (B).
-1 Remove the self-tapping ET screws.
-2 Remove the sunvisor from the body and holder.
-3 If equipped, disconnect the vanity mirror light connector (C).
-4 Using a flat-tip screwdriver, push the hook (D), turn the holder 90, and
then pull it out.
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Fig. 55: Removing Sunvisor & Holder

4. Remove the roof console (A).

-1 Remove the lens (B).
-2 Remove the bolts (C, D).
-3 Pull out the roof console, and front individual map light (E). Disconnect
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the front individual map light connector (F), and if equipped, ambient light
connector (G).
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Fig. 56: Removing Roof Console

5. 4-door: Lower the grab handle, then pry out the lids (A). Remove the self-
tapping ET screws, then remove the grab handle (B). Remove the remaining
grab handles.
Fig. 57: Removing Grab Handle

6. With moonroof: Remove the headliner.

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-1 4-door: Remove the socket plug (A).

-2 Remove the front door opening trim (B) and rear door opening trim (C)
from each roof portion.
-3 Detach the clip (D) (4-door), and release the fasteners (E) by pulling the
front portion of the headliner (F) down.
-4 With the help of an assistant, detach the rear clips (G) by pulling the
rear portion of the headliner down, and release the headliner from the
moonroof frame (H) by sliding the headliner rearward, and lowering it.
-5 Remove the headliner through the front passenger's door opening.
Fig. 58: Removing Headliner (With Moonroof - 2-Door)

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Fig. 59: Removing Headliner (With Moonroof - 4-Door)

7. Without moonroof: Remove the headliner.
-1 Remove the front door opening trim (A) and rear door opening trim (B)
from each roof portion.
-2 With the help of an assistant, detach the rear clips (C) by pulling the
rear portion of the headliner (D) down.
-3 Remove the cushion tape (E), then remove the roof harness (F) from the
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headliner.
-4 Remove the headliner through the front passenger's door opening.
Fig. 60: Removing Headliner (Without Moonroof - 2-Door)

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Fig. 61: Removing Headliner (Without Moonroof - 4-Door)

8. 4-door without side curtain airbag: If necessary, remove the bolts, then remove
the front grab handle bracket (A) and rear grab handle brackets (B) from both
sides by releasing the hooks (C).
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Fig. 62: Removing Front And Rear Grab Handle Brackets From Both
Sides Releasing Hooks
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9. Without side curtain airbag: If necessary, detach the hooks (A) and the clip (B),
then remove the front roof side pad (C) and rear roof side pad (D).
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Fig. 63: Removing Front And Rear Roof Side Pad (2-door)
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Fig. 64: Removing Front And Rear Roof Side Pad (4-Door)
10. 4-door with moonroof: If necessary, pull down the roof console bracket (A) to
release the clip.
Fig. 65: Pulling Down Roof Console Bracket To Release Clip

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11. Install the headliner in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
If the side curtain airbag has been deployed, replace the headliner and
front grab handle (4-door) on deployed side with new ones.
To prevent the side curtain airbag from accidentally deploying, being
damaged when deploying, and injuring persons when deploying, removed
-Any creases or tears in the headliner (A)
-Any fasteners (B) or clip bases (C) which have come off the
headliner
-Any damage around the grab handle holes (D) (4-door) or sunvisor
holes (E) in the headliner
-Any deformations in the grab handle (F) (4-door)
-Any cracks in the sunvisor stay base (G)
-Any bends or cracks in the sunvisor stay shaft (H)
-Any cracks in the sunvisor base (I)
-Any cracks in the vanity mirror base (J)
-Any deformations in the grab handle bracket (4-door)
Make sure the top of the headliner overlaps with the trim pieces correctly
(see CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE HEADLINER/PILLAR
TRIM OVERLAP ).
When passing the headliner through the door opening, be careful not to
fold or bend it. Also, be careful not to scratch the body.
4-door: If the threads on a visor or grab handle screw are worn out, use an
oversized self-tapping ET screw made specifically for this application:
Visor: P/N 90137-S30-003
Grab handle: P/N 90137-S0A-003
Check that both sides of the headliner are securely attached to the trim.
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Fig. 66: Checking Headliner For Damage (2-door)

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Fig. 67: Checking Headliner For Damage (4-door)

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Fig. 68: Checking Grab Handle For Damage (4-door)

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Fig. 69: Checking Sunvisor For Damage

CARPET REPLACEMENT

Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the carpet.
Be careful not to damage the dashboard or other
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interior trim pieces.
1. With side curtain airbag: Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio
and the navigation system, then write down the frequencies for the preset
buttons.
2. With side curtain airbag: Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and
wait at least 3 minutes before beginning work.
Front seats, both sides (see FRONT SEAT
Rear seat cushion, 2-door (see 2-DOOR ), 4-door (see 4-DOOR )
Rear seat side bolsters, both sides, 4-door (see 4-DOOR )
Front door sill trim, both sides, 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL
AREA ) or 4-door (see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA )
Kick panels, both sides, 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA ) or
Rear door sill trim, both sides, 4-door (see 4-DOOR - REAR DOOR
SILL AREA )
B-pillar lower trim, 4-door without side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - B-
MODELS) ) or 4-door with side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR - B-
Center console (see CENTER CONSOLE
Driver's dashboard center lower cover (see DASHBOARD/STEERING
HANGER BEAM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Passenger's dashboard center lower cover (see step 4 in
'04-07 models: Driver's dashboard under cover (see DRIVER'S
DASHBOARD UNDER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
'04-07 models: Passenger's dashboard lower cover (see PASSENGER'S
DASHBOARD LOWER COVER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
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Parking brake lever (see PARKING BRAKE CABLE

REPLACEMENT )
4. Remove the front seat belt lower anchor bolt, both sides ('03 model) or
passenger's side ('04-07 models), 2-door (see step 4 in FRONT SEAT BELT -
2-DOOR ) or 4-door (see step 4 in FRONT SEAT BELT - 4-DOOR ).
5. Detach the clips, then remove the footrest (A).
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Fig. 70: Removing Footrest

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6. M/T model: Remove the bolts, then remove the center console bracket (A).
Fig. 71: Removing Center Console Bracket

7. Disconnect the antenna lead (A) and antenna connector (B). If equipped,
disconnect the side curtain airbag subharness connector (C). Detach the harness
clips (D), and using a T30 Torx bit, remove the ground bolt (E).
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Fig. 72: Disconnecting Antenna Lead & Connector (A/T Model Only)
8. Remove the bolts securing the change lever bracket or select lever bracket (A).
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Fig. 73: Removing Change Lever Bracket Or Select Lever Bracket Bolts
9. Two-piece type: Release the clips (A) fastening the front carpet (B) and rear
carpet (C).
One-piece type: Release the clip (A) from middle of the carpet (D).
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Fig. 74: Releasing Fastening Clips From Front And Rear Carpet (Two-
Piece Type)
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Fig. 75: Releasing Clip From Middle Of Carpet (One-Piece Type)

10. Release the hooks (E) with a flat-tip screwdriver; push the screwdriver toward
the door, then lift upward. Remove the fastener (F), and then remove the carpet
(one-piece type) or the front and rear carpets (two-piece type).
11. Install the carpet(s) in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
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Take care not to damage, wrinkle or twist the carpet.

Make sure the seat harnesses are routed correctly.
Replace the clip if it is damaged.
With side curtain airbags:

Reset the clock.
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2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 TRANSMISSION Manual Transmission - Accord (V6)
Manual Transmission - Accord (V6)
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
SPECIAL TOOLS

REVERSE LOCKOUT SYSTEM
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Monday, April 27, 2009 4:26:52
2007 Honda Accord
How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the ECM

Backprobe set 07SAZ-001000A (2 required)
connect the cords to a digital multimeter (C).

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 3: Locating Reverse Lockout Component

SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
At a vehicle speed of 12 mph (20 km/h) or more, a signal from the ECM activates
the reverse lockout solenoid, which pushes the select lock cam and select lock pin
into the locked position. As a result, the interlock cannot rotate to the reverse select
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2007 Honda Accord
position, making it impossible to engage reverse gear. At a vehicle speed of 9 mph

(15 km/h) or less, the signal from the ECM is interrupted which turns off the
reverse lockout solenoid. The return spring pulls back the select lock pin enabling
the interlock to move freely so reverse gear can be selected.
REVERSE LOCKOUT SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
Vehicle speed Inhibitor Reverse selection
Above 12 mph (20 km/h) ON Not allowed
Below 9 mph(15km/h) OFF OK
IG-S/W OFF OFF OK
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Fig. 4: Reverse Lockout System Description

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 5: Reverse Lockout System Circuit Diagram

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CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Check the No. 18 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Start the engine, and check the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Does the MIL come on?
YES - Troubleshoot the DTC (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING

INFORMATION ), and recheck.
NO - Go to step 3.
4. Shift into reverse gear.
Can the transmission be shifted into reverse gear?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair the transmission, and recheck.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). With the vehicle moving slowly (vehicle
speed below 9 mph (15 km/h)), shift the transmission into reverse gear.
Can the transmission be shifted into reverse gear?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Go to step .
6. Raise the vehicle on a lift, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the
7. Start the engine and disable the TCS by pressing the TCS OFF switch (03-05
models) or disable the VSA by pressing VSA OFF switch (06-07 models). Put
the transmission into first gear and increase the engine speed until the
speedometer reads above 12 mph (20 km/h).
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Can you shift the trandmission into reverse gear?

YES - Go to step 8
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time.

9. Disconnect the reverse lockout solenoid 2P connector.
11. Measure the voltage between the reverse lockout solenoid 2P connector
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Fig. 6: Measuring Voltage Between Reverse Lockout Solenoid 2P


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NO - Check for loose or poor connections at the connector. If the

connections are OK, repair open in the wire between the No. 18 (15 A)
fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the reverse lockout solenoid.
13. Remove the reverse lockout solenoid (see Reverse Lockout Solenoid
Disassembly/Reassembly ).
14. Connect the No. 2 terminal of the reverse lockout solenoid to the battery
positive terminal, and connect the No. 1 terminal to the battery negative
terminal. Check that the reverse lockout solenoid operates.
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Fig. 7: Connecting Terminal Of Reverse Lockout Solenoid To Battery

Does the reverse lockout solenoid operate properly?

NO - Replace the reverse lockout solenoid.
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15. Reinstall the reverse lockout solenoid, and reconnect the solenoid 2P
connector.
17. Using the back probe set, measure the voltage between ECM connector A22
and body ground.
Fig. 8: Measuring Voltage Between ECM Connector A22 And Body

Ground
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YES - Check for loose connectors at ECM connector A (31P). If

necessary, update the ECM if it does not have the latest software, or
substitute a known-good ECM, then recheck (see ECM/PCM
UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING ). If the
symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM, replace the
original ECM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the reverse lockout solenoid and the
ECM (A22).
REVERSE LOCKOUT SOLENOID TEST
1. Remove the reverse lockout solenoid (see Reverse Lockout Solenoid

Disassembly/Reassembly ).
2. Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 2 terminal of the reverse
lockout solenoid 2P connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the
No. 1 terminal.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 9: Connecting Battery Positive Terminal To Terminal Of Reverse

Lockout Solenoid 2P Connector
3. Check that the reverse lockout solenoid works.

4. If the reverse lockout solenoid does not work, replace it.
REVERSE LOCKOUT SOLENOID DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
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presets.
3. Remove the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
INSPECTION/ REPLACEMENT ).
4. Remove the battery base (see step 6 in Transmission Removal ).
5. Carefully remove the shift cable, select cable, and cable bracket together to
avoid bending the cables (see step 13 in Transmission Removal ).
6. Disconnect the reverse lockout solenoid connector.
7. Remove the bolts (A), transmission harness stay (B), and reverse lockout
solenoid assembly (C).
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Fig. 10: Identifying Transmission Harness Stay And Reverse Lockout

Solenoid Assembly
8. Remove the roller (A) and select lock cam (B).
Fig. 11: Identifying Roller And Select Lock Cam


10. Remove the dirt and oil from the sealing surface. Apply liquid gasket (P/N
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08718-0002) to the sealing surface.
NOTE: Do not install components if 4 minutes or more have

passed after applying the liquid gasket. Instead, remove
the old residue and reapply the liquid gasket.
11. Install the reverse lockout solenoid assembly (A) and transmission harness stay
(B).
Fig. 12: Identifying Reverse Lockout Solenoid Assembly And

Transmission Harness Stay
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12. Connect the reverse lockout solenoid connector.
13. Install the cable bracket, select cable, and shift cable (see step 37 in
Transmission Installation ).
14. Install the battery base (see step 45 in Transmission Installation ).
15. Install the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
16. Install the battery. Connect the positive cable to the battery first, then connect
the negative cable.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
TRANSMISSION FLUID INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
1. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Remove the splash shield (see step 28 in Transmission Removal ).
3. Remove the oil check bolt (A) and washer (B). Check the condition of the
fluid. If the fluid is dirty, remove the drain plug (C) and washer (D).
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Fig. 13: Identifying Oil Check Bolt And Washer

4. Install the drain plug with a new washer.

5. Remove the oil filler plug (A) and washer (B)
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Fig. 14: Identifying Oil Filler Plug And Washer

6. Refill the transmission fluid from the oil filler plug hole, and until the
transmission fluid overflows from the oil check bolt hole (A).
7. After the fluid stops overflowing, install the oil check bolt (B) with a new
washer (C).
Fluid Capacity
2.2 L (2.3 US qt) at fluid change
Always use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using engine oil can
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cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives.
Fig. 15: Identifying Oil Check Bolts With Washer

8. Install the oil filler plug (A) with a new washer (B).
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Fig. 16: Identifying Oil Filler Plug With Washer

BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH TEST
1. Disconnect the back-up light switch connector (A).
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Fig. 17: Disconnecting Back-Up Light Switch Connector

2. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the back-up
light switch. There should be continuity when the shift lever is in Reverse.
3. If necessary, replace the back-up light switch. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-
0001), and install it on the transmission housing. Tighten the back-up light
switch to the specified torque.

Engine support hanger, A and Reds AAR-T-12566 (Available through the
Honda Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857)
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2007 Honda Accord

presets.
5. Remove the bolts securing the support strut brackets on both sides of the hood.
Secure the hood (A) in a vertical position, then install the right strut bracket (B)
by turning it over with its bolt in the lower position.
in the vertical position; it will damage the support strut
and hood.
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Fig. 18: Securing Hood In Vertical Position

6. Remove the battery base.
Fig. 19: Identifying Battery Base

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7. Remove the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER ELEMENT

8. Disconnect the back-up light switch connector (A) and reverse lockout
solenoid connector (B).
Fig. 20: Disconnecting Back-Up Light Switch Connector And Reverse

Lockout Solenoid Connector
9. Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (A) and
input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (B).
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Fig. 21: Disconnecting Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor

Connector
10. Remove the harness clips.
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Fig. 22: Identifying Harness Clips

11. Disconnect the starter cable (A), then remove the starter motor (B).
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Fig. 23: Disconnecting Starter Cable

12. Remove the harness bracket.
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Fig. 24: Identifying Harness Bracket

13. Remove the cable bracket (A), then disconnect the cables (B) from the top of
the transmission housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket
together to avoid bending the cables.
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Fig. 25: Identifying Cable Bracket

14. Carefully remove the slave cylinder without bending the clutch line. Do not
press the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed.
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Fig. 26: Identifying Slave Cylinder

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Fig. 27: Identifying Front Mount Stop

16. Remove the rear mount stop.
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Fig. 28: Identifying Rear Mount Stop

17. Remove the transmission upper mounting bolts.

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Fig. 29: Identifying Transmission Upper Mounting Bolts

18. Remove and plug the return hose (A) from the power steering fluid reservoir
(B). Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
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Fig. 30: Identifying And Plugging Return Hose From Power Steering
Fluid Reservoir
19. Remove the power steering pump outlet line (C) from the power steering pump
(D), and remove the hose (E) from its clamp (F).
20. Remove the front bulkhead cover :
2-door (see 2-DOOR
4-door 4-DOOR
21. Lift and support the engine with the engine support hanger (A) and the engine
balance bar (B). Attach the front arm (C) to the front cylinder head with a
spacer (D) and the 10 x 1.25 mm bolt (E). Attach the rear arm (F) to the rear
cylinder head with the 8 x 1.25 mm bolt (G).
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Fig. 31: Lifting And Supporting Engine With Support Hanger And Engine
Balance Bar
22. Remove the transmission mount bracket (A) and ground cable (B).
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Fig. 32: Identifying Transmission Mount Bracket And Ground Cable

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slider shaft (E) on the column with a piece of wire (F) between the joint yoke
(G) on the slider shaft and the joint yoke on the upper shaft, refer to
STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
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27. Drain the transmission fluid. Install the drain bolt with a new washer (see
TRANSMISSION FLUID INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT).

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29. Separate the tie-rod ball joint, refer to step 8 in STEERING GEARBOX
OVERHAUL .
30. Remove the damper fork (see step 6 in DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL ).
31. Separate the knuckle from the lower arm (see step 7 in DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL ).

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34. Remove the left and right driveshaft inboard joints (see DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL ).
REMOVAL ).
36. Remove the engine lower rear mount mounting bolts.
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Fig. 37: Identifying Engine Lower Rear Mount Mounting Bolts

37. Remove the transmission lower mount mounting nuts.
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Fig. 38: Identifying Transmission Lower Mount Mounting Nuts

38. Remove the subframe mid mounts from both sides.
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Fig. 39: Identifying Subframe Mid Mounts From Both Sides

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Fig. 40: Making Appropriate Reference Lines

40. Attach the special tool to the subframe by wrapping the band over the subframe
and attaching the end of the band to the tool with a pin (A).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 41: Attaching End Of Band To Tool With Pin

41. Raise the jack, and line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the
corner of the jack base, then attach them securely.
42. Remove the front suspension subframe stays (A) and the front suspension
subframe (B).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 42: Identifying Front Suspension Subframe Stays

43. Remove the front engine mount upper bracket.
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Fig. 43: Identifying Front Engine Mount Upper Bracket

44. Remove the clutch cover.
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Fig. 44: Identifying Clutch Cover

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transmission lower mounting bolts.
Fig. 45: Identifying Transmission Lower Mounting Bolts

46. Pull the transmission away from the engine until the transmission mainshaft
clears the clutch pressure plate, then lower the transmission on the transmission
jack.
47. Remove the transmission front lower mount (A) and the transmission rear
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lower mount (B).
Fig. 46: Identifying Transmission Front Lower Mount

48. Remove the boot (A), release fork (B), and release bearing (C) from the
transmission.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 47: Identifying Boot, Release Fork And Release Bearing From
Transmission
Engine support hanger, A and Reds AAR-T-12566 (Available through the

Honda Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857)
1. Make sure the two dowel pins are installed in the clutch housing.
the release bearing (B) and the mainshaft splines. Install the release fork, the
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2007 Honda Accord
release bearing, and the boot (C).
Fig. 48: Applying Super High Temp Urea Grease To Release Fork
3. Install the transmission front lower mount (A) and the transmission rear lower
mount (B).
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Fig. 49: Identifying Transmission Front Lower Mount

4. Place the transmission on the transmission jack, and raise it to engine level.
5. Install the transmission lower mounting bolts.
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Fig. 50: Install Transmission Lower Mounting Bolts

6. Install the clutch cover.
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Fig. 51: Identifying Clutch Cover

7. Install the front engine mount upper bracket.
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Fig. 52: Identifying Front Engine Mount Upper Bracket

8. Support the subframe with the subframe adapter and a jack.
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Fig. 53: Supporting Subframe With Subframe Adapter And Jack

9. Install the front suspension subframe (A) and front suspension subframe stays
(B).
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Fig. 54: Identifying Front Suspension Subframe

10. Align the reference marks (A) with the edge (B) of both rear stiffeners (C),
then tighten the rear subframe mounting bolts, the front bolts, and the stiffener
bolts to the specified torque.
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Fig. 55: Aligning Reference Marks With Edge Of Both Rear Stiffeners
11. Install the subframe mid mounts on both sides.
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Fig. 56: Identifying Subframe Mid Mounts On Both Sides

12. Install the transmission lower mount mounting nuts.
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Fig. 57: Identifying Transmission Lower Mount Mounting Nuts

13. Install the engine lower rear mount mounting bolts.
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Fig. 58: Identifying Engine Lower Rear Mount Mounting Bolts

14. Install the intermediate shaft (see INTERMEDIATE SHAFT

INSTALLATION ).
15. Install the left and right driveshaft inboard joints (see DRIVESHAFT
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2007 Honda Accord
INSTALLATION ).
16. Install the knuckle onto the lower arm (see step 5 in DRIVESHAFT
INSTALLATION ).
17. Install the damper fork (see step 7 in DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION ).
18. Install exhaust pipe A, the mount (B), and new gaskets (C).

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20. Connect the return line to the power steering fluid reservoir.
21. Install the tie-rod ball joint, refer to step 23 in STEERING GEARBOX
INSTALLATION .
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23. Refill the transmission with fluid.

24. Install the front wheels, and set them in the straight ahead position.
25. Lower the vehicle.
26. Unlock the steering wheel.
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29. Install the transmission mount bracket (A) and ground cable (B).
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Fig. 63: Identifying Transmission Mount Bracket And Ground Cable

30. Remove the engine hanger and special tool from the engine.
pump (C), and install the hose (D) in its clamp (E).
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Fig. 64: Identifying Power Steering Pump Outlet Line

32. Connect the return the hose (F) to the power steering fluid reservoir (G), then
secure the hose with its clamp (H).
33. Install the transmission upper mounting bolts.
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Fig. 65: Identifying Transmission Upper Mounting Bolts

34. Install the rear mount stop.
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Fig. 66: Identifying Rear Mount Stop

35. Install the engine front mount mounting bolt (A) and the front mount stop (B).
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Fig. 67: Identifying Engine Front Mount Mounting Bolt And Front Mount
Stop
36. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the end of the cylinder
rod. Install the slave cylinder. Be careful not to bend the clutch line.
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Fig. 68: Applying Super High Temp Urea Grease To End Of Cylinder Rod
37. Install the cable bracket (A) and cables (B).
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Fig. 69: Install Cable Bracket And Cables

cable ends, and install new cotter pins (C).
39. Install the harness bracket.
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Fig. 70: Identifying Harness Bracket

40. Install the starter motor (A), then connect the starter cable (B).
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Fig. 71: Identifying Starter Motor

41. Install the harness clips.
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Fig. 72: Identifying Harness Clips

42. Connect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (A) and input
shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (B).
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Fig. 73: Connecting Output Shaft Speed Sensor Connector And Input
Shaft
43. Connect the back-up light switch connector (A) and reverse lockout solenoid
connector (B).
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Fig. 74: Connecting Back-Up Light Switch Connector

44. Install the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
45. Install the battery base.
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Fig. 75: Identifying Battery Base

46. Reinstall the support strut bracket with the bolts to the proper locations on both
sides of the hood.
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Fig. 76: Identifying Support Strut Bracket


48. Center the cable reel by first rotating it clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it
counterclockwise (about three full turns) until the arrow mark on the label
points straight up.
49. Reinstall the steering wheel, refer to STEERING WHEEL
INSTALLATION .
50. Fill the power steering fluid reservoir with fluid to the upper level line.
the negative cable.
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52. Start the engine, and run it at fast idle, then turn the steering wheel from lock-
to-lock several times to bleed air from the system.
53. Recheck the fluid level, and refill if necessary.
54. Check the front wheel alignment, refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT .
55. Check the steering wheel spoke angle. If the steering spoke angles to the right
and left are not equal (steering wheel and rack are not centered), correct the
engagement of the joint/pinion shaft serrations, then adjust the front toe by
turning the tie-rod ends if necessary. If you need to correct the engagement of
the joint/pinion shaft, repeat steps 52 through 54.
58. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio and navigation system, then enter the
TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY
Exploded View-Clutch Housing
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Fig. 77: Exploded View-Clutch Housing

Exploded View-Transmission Housing
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Fig. 78: Exploded View-Transmission Housing

NOTE: Place the clutch housing on two pieces of wood thick

enough to keep the mainshaft from hitting the workbench.
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1. Remove the strainer cover (A), O-ring (B), strainer set spring (C), and oil
pump strainer (D).
Fig. 79: Identifying Strainer Cover

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2. Remove the transmission harness stay (A), reverse lockout solenoid (B), and
back-up light switch (C).
Fig. 80: Identifying Transmission Harness Stay

3. Remove the set screws (A), 22.0 mm spring (B), 26.1 mm spring (C), 27.4 mm
springs (D), steel balls (E), oil filler plug (F), washer (G), and clutch line
bracket (H).
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Fig. 81: Identifying Set Screws (1 Of 2)

4. Remove the set screws (A), 22.0 mm spring (B), 27.4 mm spring (C), steel
balls (D), output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (E), input shaft (mainshaft)
speed sensor (F), and O-rings (G).
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Fig. 82: Identifying Set Screws (2 Of 2)

5. Remove the oil check bolt (A), 6 mm washer (B), drain plug (C), and 14 mm
washer (D).
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Fig. 83: Identifying Oil Check Bolt

6. Remove the transmission hanger (A), transmission hanger (B), and 8 mm

flange bolt (C). Loosen the 10 mm flange bolts in a crisscross pattern in several
steps, then remove them.
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Fig. 84: Identifying Transmission Hanger

7. Remove the transmission case cap (A) and 37.7 mm O-ring (B).
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Fig. 85: Identifying Transmission Case Cap

8. While expanding the 75 mm snap ring (C) of the countershaft ball bearing with
snap ring pliers, lift the transmission housing (D). Release the snap ring pliers,
and remove the transmission housing and 14 x 20 mm dowel pins (E).
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9. Remove the oil guide pipe A, oil guide pipe (B), and magnet (C).
Fig. 86: Identifying Oil Guide Pipe

10. Remove the pin (A) and reverse shift lever (B).
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Fig. 87: Identifying Pin And Reverse Shift Lever

11. Remove the 20 mm thrust washers (A), 20 mm thrust needle bearings (B),
reverse idler gear shaft assembly (C), 33 mm spring washer (D), and reverse
shift fork (E) as an assembly.
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Fig. 88: Identifying Thrust Washers

12. Remove the pin (A), select return spring (B), shift piece shaft (C), shift piece
(D), and interlock (E).
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Fig. 89: Identifying Pin

13. Remove the 5 mm spring pin, 3 mm spring pin (A), select arm (B), 14 x 20 x 5
mm dust seal (C), and select lever (D).
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Fig. 90: Identifying Spring Pin

14. Apply tape to the mainshaft splines to protect the seal, then remove the
mainshaft assembly (A) and countershaft assembly (B) with the shift forks (C)
from the clutch housing (D).
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Fig. 91: Identifying Mainshaft And Countershaft Assembly

15. Remove the 64 mm spring washer (E).
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16. Remove the oil pump shaft (A) and differential assembly (B).
Fig. 92: Identifying Oil Pump Shaft And Differential Assembly

17. Remove the oil pump plate (A), oil pump inner rotor (B), oil pump outer rotor
(C), relief valve spring (D), and steel ball (E).
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Fig. 93: Identifying Oil Pump Plate

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18. Remove the 82 mm shim (A) from the transmission housing (B).
Fig. 94: Identifying Shim From Transmission Housing

19. Remove the 8 mm special bolt (A), 8 mm spring washer (B), shift arm (C),
change lever (D), and 16 x 23 x 5 mm dust seal (E).
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Fig. 95: Identifying Special Bolt

REVERSE SHIFT LEVER CLEARANCE INSPECTION
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1. Measure the clearance between the reverse shift lever (A) and reverse shift fork
(B) with a feeler gauge (C). If the clearance is more than the service limit, go
to step 2.
Standard: 0.05-0.50 mm (0.002-0.020 in.)
Fig. 96: Measuring Clearance Between Reverse Shift Lever And Reverse
Shift Fork With Feeler Gauge
2. Measure the width of the reverse shift lever.

If the width is not within the standard, replace the reverse shift lever.
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If the width is within the standard, replace the reverse shift fork.
Standard: 6.400-6.650 mm (0.2520-0.2618 in.)
Fig. 97: Measuring Width Of Reverse Shift Lever

3. Measure the clearance between the reverse shift lever (A) and reverse shift
piece (B) with a feeler gauge (C). If the clearance is more than the service
limit, go to step 4.
Standard: 0-0.4 mm (0-0.015 in.)
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Fig. 98: Measuring Clearance Between Reverse Shift Lever And Reverse
Shift Piece With Feeler Gauge
4. Measure the width of the reverse shift lever.

If the width is not within the standard, replace the reverse shift lever.
If the width is within the standard, replace the reverse shift piece.
Standard: 13.0-13.2 mm (0.51-0.52 in.)
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Fig. 99: Measuring Width Of Reverse Shift Lever

SELECT ARM CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Measure the clearance between the select arm (A) and interlock (B) with a
feeler gauge (C). If the clearance is more than the service limit, go to step 2.
Standard: 0.05-0.25 mm (0.002-0.010 in.)

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Fig. 100: Measuring Clearance Between Select Arm And Interlock With
Feeler Gauge
2. Measure the width of the select arm.
If the width is not within the standard, replace the select arm.
If the width is within the standard, replace the interlock.
Standard: 12.9-13.0 mm (0.50-0.51 in.)
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Fig. 101: Measuring Width Of Select Arm

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SHIFT ARM CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Measure the clearance between the shift arm (A) and shift piece (B) with a
Standard: 0.05-0.25 mm (0.002-0.010 in.)
Fig. 102: Measuring Clearance Between Shift Arm And Shift Piece With
Feeler Gauge
2. Measure the width of the shift arm.

If the width is not within the standard, replace the shift arm.
If the width is within the standard, replace the shift piece.
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Standard: 13.9-14.0 mm (0.54-0.55 in.)
Fig. 103: Measuring Width Of Shift Arm

OIL PUMP CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Measure the thrust clearance between the oil pump gears (A) and clutch
housing (B) with a straight edge (C) and a feeler gauge (D).
Standard (new): 0.03-0.13 mm (0.001-0.005 in.)

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Fig. 104: Measuring Thrust Clearance Between Oil Pump Gears And
Clutch Housing
2. Measure the side clearance between the outer rotor (A) and clutch housing (B)
with a feeler gauge (C).
Standard (new): 0.1-0.2 mm (0.004-0.008 in.)

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Fig. 105: Measuring Side Clearance Between Outer Rotor And Clutch
Housing With Feeler Gauge
3. Measure the side clearance between the outer rotor (A) and inner rotor (B) with
a feeler gauge (C).
Standard (new): 0.14 mm (0.006 in.)

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Fig. 106: Measuring Side Clearance Between Outer Rotor And Inner
Rotor With Feeler Gauge
4. If the clearance is not within the standard, replace the oil pump outer and inner
rotors.
SHIFT FORK CLEARANCE INSPECTION
NOTE: The synchro sleeve and synchro hub should be replaced as

a set.
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1. Measure the clearance between each shift fork (A) and its matching synchro
sleeve (B). If the clearance exceeds the service limit, go to step 2.
Standard: 0.35-0.65 mm (0.014-0.026 in.)
Fig. 107: Measuring Clearance Between Each Shift Fork (1ST/2ND,

3RD/4TH, 5TH/6TH)
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Fig. 108: Measuring Clearance Between Each Shift Fork (REVERSE)

2. Measure the thickness of the shift fork fingers.

If the thickness is not within the standard, replace the shift fork.
If the thickness is within the standard, replace the synchro sleeve.
If one arm of the shift fork shows more wear than others, the fork may be
bent and needs to be replaced.
Standard:
1st/2nd, 3rd/4th, 5th/6th: 7.4-7.6 mm (0.29-0.30 in.)

Reverse: 6.2-6.4 mm (0.24-0.25 in.)
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Fig. 109: Measuring Thickness Of Shift Fork Fingers

3. Measure the clearance between the shift fork (A) and shift piece (B). If the
clearance exceeds the service limit, go to step 4.
Standard: 0.2-0.6 mm (0.008-0.024 in.)

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Fig. 110: Measuring Clearance Between Shift Fork And Shift Piece
4. Measure the width of the shift piece.

If the width is not within the standard, replace the shift piece.
If the width is within the standard, replace the shift fork.
Standard: 12.8- 13.0 mm (0.50-0.51 in.)
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Fig. 111: Measuring Width Of Shift Piece

SHIFT FORK DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
Prior to reassembling, clean all parts in solvent, dry them, and apply lubricant to all
contact surfaces.
Fig. 112: Disassembling/Reassembling Shift Fork

MAINSHAFT ASSEMBLY CLEARANCE INSPECTION
NOTE: If replacement is required, always replace the synchro
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sleeve and hub as a set.
1. Support the bearing inner race with an appropriate sized socket (A), and push
down on the mainshaft (B).
Fig. 113: Supporting Bearing Inner Race With An Appropriate Sized

Socket
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2. Measure the clearance between 2nd gear (C) and 3rd gear (D) with a feeler
gauge (E).
If the clearance is more than the service limit, go to step 3.
If the clearance is within the service limit, go to step 4.
Standard: 0.06-0.19 mm (0.002-0.007 in.)

3. Measure the thickness of 3rd gear.
If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace 3rd gear.
If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 3rd/4th synchro
hub/sleeve.
Standard: 23.89-23.97 mm (0.941-0.944 in.)

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Fig. 114: Measuring Thickness Of 3rd Gear

4. Measure the clearance between 4th gear (A) and the distance collar (B) with a
dial indicator (C). If the clearance is more than the service limit, go to step 5.
Standard: 0.06-0.19 mm (0.002-0.007 in.)
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Fig. 115: Measuring Clearance Between 4th Gear And Distance Collar
5. Measure distance (1) on the 4th gear side distance collar.

If distance (1) is not within the standard, replace the distance collar.
If distance (1) is within the standard, go to step 6.
Standard: 22.53-22.58 mm (0.887-0.889 in.)

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Fig. 116: Measuring Distance (1) On 4th Gear Side Distance Collar
6. Measure the thickness of 4th gear.

If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace 4th gear.
If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 3rd/4th synchro
hub/sleeve.
Standard: 22.39-22.47 mm (0.881 -0.885 in.)
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Fig. 117: Measuring Thickness Of 4th Gear

7. Measure the clearance between the distance collar (A) and 5th gear (B) with a
Standard: 0.06-0.19 mm (0.002-0.007 in.)

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Fig. 118: Measuring Clearance Between Distance Collar And 5th Gear
With Dial Indicator
8. Measure distance (2) on the 5th gear side distance collar.
Standard: 22.53-22.58 mm (0.887-0.889 in.)

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Fig. 119: Measuring Distance (2) On 5th Gear Side Distance Collar

If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 5th/6th synchro
hub/sleeve.
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Standard: 22.39-22.47 mm (0.881 -0.885 in.)


10. Measure the clearance between 6th gear (A) and the angular ball bearing inner
race (B) with a dial indicator (C). If the clearance is more than the service
limit, go to step 11.
Standard: 0.06-0.19 mm (0.002-0.007 in.)
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Fig. 121: Measuring Clearance Between 6th Gear And Angular Ball
Bearing Inner Race
11. Measure the thickness of the distance collar.

If the thickness is less than the standard, replace the distance collar.
If the thickness is within the standard, go to step 12.
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Standard: 22.03-22.08 mm (0.867-0.869 in.)
Fig. 122: Measuring Thickness Of Distance Collar


If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 5th/6th synchro
hub/sleeve.
Standard: 21.89-21.97 mm (0.862-0.865 in.)

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MAINSHAFT DISASSEMBLY
1. Support 6th gear (A) on the steel blocks, and press the mainshaft out of the ball
bearing (B). Use of a jaw-type puller can damage the gear teeth.
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Fig. 124: Supporting 6th Gear On Steel Blocks

2. Support 5th gear (A) on the steel blocks, and press the mainshaft out of the
5th/6th synchro hub (B). Use of a jaw-type puller can damage the gear teeth.
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3. Support 3rd gear (A) on the steel blocks, and press the mainshaft out of the
3rd/4th synchro hub (B). Use of a jaw-type puller can damage the gear teeth.
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Fig. 126: Supporting 3rd Gear On Steel Blocks

4. Support the angular ball bearing on the steel blocks, and press out the
mainshaft.
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Fig. 127: Supporting Angular Ball Bearing On Steel Blocks

MAINSHAFT INSPECTION
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1. Inspect the oil passage, gear, and bearing surfaces for wear and damage, then
measure the mainshaft at points A, B, C, D, E, and F. If any part of the
mainshaft is less than the service limit, replace it.
Standard:
A Ball bearing surface (transmission housing side): 30.987-31.000 mm
(1.2200-1.2205 in.)
B 6th gear distance collar surface: 32.987-33.000 mm (1.2987-1.2992
in.)
C 4th/5th gear distance collar surface: 35.987-36.000 mm (1.4168-
1.4173 in.)
D Needle bearing surface: 41.984-42.000 mm (1.6529-1.6535 in.)
E Ball bearing surface (clutch housing side): 28.002-28.015 mm
(1.1024-1.1030 in.)
F Pilot bearing surface: 19.967-19.980 mm (0.7861-0.7866 in.)
Service Limit:
A: 30.93 mm (1.218 in.)

B: 32.93 mm (1.296 in.)
C: 35.93 mm (1.415 in.)
D: 41.93 mm (1.651 in.)
E: 27.95 mm (1.100 in.)
F: 19.91 mm (0.784 in.)
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Fig. 128: Inspecting Oil Passage, Gear And Bearing Surfaces

2. Inspect the runout by supporting both ends of the mainshaft. Then rotate the
mainshaft two complete turns while measuring with a dial gauge. If the runout
is more than the service limit, replace the mainshaft.
Standard: 0.02 mm (0.001 in.)
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Fig. 129: Inspecting Runout By Supporting Both Ends Of Mainshaft

MAINSHAFT REASSEMBLY
Exploded View
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Fig. 130: Exploded View Of Mainshaft Reassembly

Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100

Driver, 30 mm I.D. 07946-MB00000
NOTE: Refer to the Fig. 130 .

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1. Clean all parts in solvent, dry them, and apply lubricant to all contact surfaces
except the 3rd/4th and 5th/6th synchro hubs.
2. Install the new angular ball bearing (A) using the special tool and a press. Note
the direction of installation.
Fig. 131: Identifying New Angular Ball Bearing

3. Install the needle bearing (A) and 3rd gear (B) on the mainshaft (C).
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Fig. 132: Identifying Needle Bearing And 3rd Gear On Mainshaft

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4. Install the double cone synchro assembly (A) by aligning the synchro cone
fingers (B) with the holes in 3rd gear (C), then install the synchro spring (D).
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Fig. 133: Identifying Double Cone Synchro Assembly

5. Install the 3rd/4th synchro hub (A) by aligning the outer synchro ring fingers
(B) with the grooves in the 3rd/4th synchro hub (C).
Fig. 134: Identifying 3rd/4th Synchro Hub

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6. Install the 3rd/4th synchro hub (A) using the special tool.
Fig. 135: Identifying 3rd/4th Synchro Hub

7. Install the 3rd/4th synchro sleeve (A) by aligning the stops (B) with the 3rd/4th
synchro sleeve and hub. After installing, check the operation of the 3rd/ 4th
synchro hub set.
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Fig. 136: Identifying 3rd/4th Synchro Sleeve

8. Install the synchro spring (A).
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Fig. 137: Identifying Synchro Spring

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9. Install the double cone synchro assembly (B) by aligning the outer synchro
ring fingers (C) with the grooves in the 3rd/4th synchro hub (D).
10. Install 4th gear (A) by aligning the synchro cone fingers (B) with the holes in
4th gear (C).
Fig. 138: Identifying 4th Gear

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11. Install the needle bearings, distance collar, 5th gear, synchro ring, and synchro
spring.
12. Install the 5th/6th synchro hub (A) by aligning the outer synchro ring fingers
(B) with the grooves in the 5th/6th synchro hub (C).
Fig. 139: Identifying 5th/6th Synchro Hub

13. Install the 5th/6th synchro hub (A) using the special tool.
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Fig. 140: Identifying 5th/6th Synchro Hub

14. Install the 5th/6th synchro sleeve.
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Fig. 141: Identifying 5th/6th Synchro Sleeve

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15. Install the synchro spring and synchro ring.

16. Install the distance collar, needle bearing, and 6th gear.
17. Install the new angular ball bearing (A) using the special tool. Note the
direction of installation.
Fig. 142: Identifying New Angular Ball Bearing

COUNTERSHAFT ASSEMBLY CLEARANCE INSPECTION
NOTE: Before inspection, make sure the 20 mm special bolt is

tightened to the specified torque.
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1. Measure the clearance between 1st gear (A) and the countershaft reverse gear
(B) with a dial indicator (C). If the clearance is more than the service limit, go
to step 2.
Standard: 0.04-0.17 mm (0.002-0.007 in.)

Fig. 143: Measuring Clearance Between 1st Gear And Countershaft

Reverse Gear
2. Measure the distance of the countershaft reverse gear.
If the distance is less than the standard, replace the countershaft reverse
gear.
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Standard: 23.03-23.08 mm (0.907-0.909 in.)
Fig. 144: Measuring Distance Of Countershaft Reverse Gear

3. Measure the thickness of 1st gear.

If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace 1st gear.
If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 1st/2nd synchro
hub/sleeve.
Standard: 22.91-22.99 mm (0.902-0.905 in.)
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Fig. 145: Measuring Thickness Of 1st Gear

4. Measure the clearance between 2nd gear (A) and 3rd gear (B) with a feeler
gauge (C). If the clearance is more than the service limit, go to step 5.
Standard: 0.04-0.17 mm (0.002-0.007 in.)
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Fig. 146: Measuring Clearance Between 2nd Gear And 3rd Gear

If the thickness is less than the standard, replace the distance collar.
Standard: 23.03-23.08 mm (0.907-0.909 in.)
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Fig. 147: Measuring Thickness Of Distance Collar

6. Measure the thickness of 2nd gear.

If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace 2nd gear.
If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 1st/2nd synchro hub.
Standard: 22.91 -22.99 mm (0.902-0.905 in.)
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Fig. 148: Measuring Thickness Of 2nd Gear

COUNTERSHAFT DISASSEMBLY
1. Securely clamp the countershaft assembly in a vise with wood blocks.
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Fig. 149: Securing Clamp Countershaft Assembly In Vise

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2. Remove the 20 mm special bolt (left-hand threads).

3. Support 6th gear (A) on steel blocks (B), then use a press (C) and an
attachment (D) to press the countershaft (E) out of the ball bearing.

4. Remove the 35 mm shim and 6th gear.
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attachment (D) to press the countershaft (E) out of 4th and 5th gear.

6. Support 2nd gear (A) on steel blocks (B), then use a press (C) and an
attachment (D) to press the countershaft (E) out of 2nd and 3rd gear.
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Fig. 152: Supporting 2nd Gear On Steel Blocks

COUNTERSHAFT INSPECTION
1. Inspect the oil passage, gear, and bearing surfaces for wear and damage, then
measure the countershaft at points A, B, C, and D. If any part of the
countershaft is less than the service limit, replace it.
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Standard:
A Ball bearing surface (transmission housing side): 30.002-30.015 mm
(1.1812-1.1817 in.)
B Distance collar surface: 42.975-42.991 mm (1.6919-1.6926 in.)
C Countershaft reverse gear surface: 45.934-45.950 mm (1.8084-
1.8091 in.)
D Needle bearing surface (clutch housing side): 43.974-43.990 mm
(1.7313-1.7319 in.)
Service Limit:
A: 29.95 mm (1.179 in.)

B: 42.92 mm (1.690 in.)
C: 45.88 mm (1.806 in.)
D: 43.92 mm (1.729 in.)
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Fig. 153: Inspecting Oil Passage, Gear, And Bearing Surfaces For Wear
And Damage
2. Inspect the runout by supporting both ends of the countershaft. Then rotate the
countershaft two complete turns while measuring with a dial gauge. If the
runout exceeds the service limit, replace the countershaft.
Standard: 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) max.

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Fig. 154: Inspecting Runout By Supporting Both Ends Of Countershaft

COUNTERSHAFT REASSEMBLY
Exploded View
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Fig. 155: Exploded View Of Countershaft Reassembly

Driver, 56 x 62 mm 070AD-PYZA100
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
NOTE: Refer to Fig. 155 as needed .
1. Clean all parts in solvent, dry them, and apply lubricant to all contact surfaces.
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2. Install the countershaft reverse gear (A), needle bearing (B), and 1st gear (C)
onto the countershaft (D).
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Fig. 156: Identifying Countershaft Reverse Gear

3. Install the triple cone synchro assembly (A) by aligning the synchro cone
fingers (B) with the holes in 1st gear (C), then install the synchro spring (D).
Fig. 157: Identifying Triple Cone Synchro Assembly

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4. Install the 1st/2nd synchro hub (A) by aligning the outer synchro ring fingers
(B) with the grooves in the 1st/2nd synchro hub (C).
Fig. 158: Identifying 1st/2nd Synchro Hub

5. Install the 1st/2nd synchro sleeve.

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Fig. 159: Identifying Synchro Spring

7. Install the triple cone synchro assembly (B) by aligning the outer synchro ring
fingers (C) with the grooves in the 1st/2nd synchro hub (D).
8. Install the distance collar and needle bearing.
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9. Install 2nd gear (A) by aligning the synchro cone fingers (B) with the holes in
2nd gear (C).
Fig. 160: Identifying 2nd Gear

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10. Support the countershaft (A) on the steel blocks, then install 3rd gear (B) using
the special tool and a press (C).
Fig. 161: Supporting Countershaft On Steel Blocks

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11. Install 4th gear (A) using the special tool and a press (B).
Fig. 162: Identifying 4th gear Using Special Tool And Press
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Fig. 163: Identifying 5th Gear Using Special Tool And Press
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14. Install the 35 mm shim (A) and the old ball bearing (B) using the special tool
and a press (C).
Fig. 165: Identifying 35 mm Shim And Old Ball Bearing

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15. Measure the clearance between the old ball bearing (A) and the 35 mm shim
(B) with a feeler gauge (C).
Standard: 0.04-0.10 mm (0.0016-0.0039 in.)
Fig. 166: Measuring Clearance Between Old Ball Bearing And Shim
16. If the clearance is more than the standard, select a new shim from PART
NUMBER SPECIFICATION . If the clearance measured in step 15 is within
the standard, replace only the ball bearing.
35 MM SHIM THICKNESS CHART
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Part Number Thickness

A 23981-PPP-000 0.87 mm (0.034 in.)
AA 23981-PPP-900 0.91 mm (0.036 in.)
B 23982-PPP-000 0.95 mm (0.037 in.)
AB 23982-PPP-900 0.99 mm (0.039 in.)
C 23983-PPP-000 1.03 mm (0.041 in.)
AC 23983-PPP-900 1.07 mm (0.042 in.)
D 23984-PPP-000 1.11 mm (0.044 in.)
AD 23984-PPP-900 1.15 mm (0.045 in.)
E 23985-PPP-000 1.19 mm (0.047 in.)
AE 23985-PPP-900 1.23 mm (0.048 in.)
F 23986-PPP-000 1.27 mm (0.050 in.)
AF 23986-PPP-900 1.31 mm (0.052 in.)
G 23987-PPP-000 1.35 mm (0.053 in.)
AG 23987-PPP-900 1.39 mm (0.055 in.)
H 23988-PPP-000 1.43 mm (0.056 in.)
AH 23988-PPP-900 1.47 mm (0.058 in.)
J 23989-PPP-000 1.51 mm (0.059 in.)
AJ 23989-PPP-900 1.55 mm (0.061 in.)
K 23990-PPP-000 1.59 mm (0.063 in.)
AK 23990-PPP-900 1.63 mm (0.064 in.)
L 23991-PPP-000 1.67 mm (0.066 in.)
AL 23991-PPP-900 1.71 mm (0.067 in.)
M 23992-PPP-000 1.75 mm (0.069 in.)
AM 23992-PPP-900 1.79 mm (0.070 in.)
N 23993-PPP-000 1.83 mm (0.072 in.)
AN 23993-PPP-900 1.87 mm (0.074 in.)
P 23994-PPP-000 1.91 mm (0.075 in.)
AP 23994-PPP-900 1.95 mm (0.077 in.)
Q 23995-PPP-000 1.99 mm (0.078 in.)
17. Support 6th gear (A) on steel blocks (B), then using a press (C) and an
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attachment (D), press the countershaft out of the old ball bearing.

18. If necessary, install the 35 mm shim selected in step 16, then recheck the
clearance.
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20. Install the 35 mm shim (A) and new bearing (B) using the special tool and a
press (C).
Fig. 169: Identifying 35 mm Shim And New Bearing

21. Securely clamp the countershaft assembly in a vise with wood blocks (A).
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Fig. 170: Securing Clamp Countershaft Assembly In Vise

22. Tighten the new 20 mm special bolt (B) (left-hand threads).

REVERSE IDLER GEAR SHAFT ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them, and apply lubricant to
any contact surface.
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Fig. 171: Disassembling/Reassembling Reverse Idler Gear Shaft Assembly

SYNCHRO SLEEVE AND HUB INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY
1. Inspect gear teeth on all synchro hubs and synchro sleeves for wear (rounded
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off corners).
2. Install each synchro hub (A) in its mating synchro sleeve (B), and check for
freedom of movement. Make sure you match the three sets of longer teeth (C)
(120 degrees apart) on the synchro sleeve with the three sets of deeper grooves
(D) in the synchro hub. Do not install the synchro sleeve with its longer teeth
in the synchro hub slots (E) because it will damage the spring ring.

sleeve and synchro hub as a set.
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Fig. 172: Identifying Each Synchro Hub

SYNCHRO RING AND GEAR INSPECTION
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1. Inspect the inside of each synchro ring (A) for wear. Inspect the teeth (B) on
each synchro ring for wear (rounded off).
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Fig. 173: Inspecting Inside Of Each Synchro Ring For Wear

2. Inspect the teeth (C) on each synchro sleeve and matching teeth on each gear
for wear (rounded off).
Fig. 174: Example Of Synchro Ring Teeth

3. Inspect the thrust surface (D) on each gear hub for wear.
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Fig. 175: Inspecting Thrust Surface On Each Gear Hub

4. Inspect the cone surface (E) on each gear for wear and roughness.
5. Inspect the teeth on all gears (F) for uneven wear, scoring, galling, and cracks.
6. Coat the cone surface of each gear (E) with oil, and place its synchro ring on it.
Rotate the synchro ring, making sure that it does not slip.
7. Measure the clearance between each gear (A) and its synchro ring (B) all
around the gear. Hold the synchro ring against the gear evenly while measuring
the clearance. If the clearance is less than the service limit, replace the synchro
ring and gear.
Synchro Ring-to-Gear Clearance
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Standard:
5th gear: 0.70-1.49 mm (0.028-0.059 in.)
6th gear: 0.73-1.44 mm (0.029-0.057 in.)
Double Cone Synchro-to-Gear Clearance

Standard:
(1): Outer Synchro Ring (B) to Synchro Cone (C): 0.70-1.19 mm

(0.028-0.047 in.)
(2): Synchro Cone (C) to Gear (A): 0.50-1.04 mm (0.020-0.041 in.)
(3): Outer Synchro Ring (B) to Gear (A): 0.95-1.68 mm (0.037-0.066
in.)
Service Limit:
(1): 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)

(2): 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
(3): 0.6 mm (0.024 in.)
Triple Cone Synchro-to-Gear Clearance
Standard:
(1): Outer Synchro Ring (B) to Synchro Cone (C)

1st gear: 0.70-1.19 mm (0.028-0.047 in.)
2nd gear: 0.70-1.19 mm (0.028-0.047 in.)
(2): Synchro Cone (C) to Gear (A)
1st gear: 0.45-1.14 mm (0.018-0.045 in.)
2nd gear: 0.60-1.88 mm (0.024-0.074 in.)
(3): Outer Synchro Ring (B) to Gear (A)
1st gear: 1.12-1.68 mm (0.044-0.066 in.)
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2nd gear: 0.87-1.82 mm (0.034-0.072 in.)

Service Limit:
(1): 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)

(2): 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
(3): 0.6 mm (0.024 in.)
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Fig. 176: Measuring Clearance Between Each Gear And Its Synchro Ring
All Around Gear
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MAINSHAFT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
Attachment, 42 x 47 mm 07746-0010300
Driver 07749-0010000
1. Remove the mainshaft assembly.
2. Remove the oil seal from the clutch housing. Be careful when removing the
seal to avoid damaging the clutch housing.
Fig. 177: Identifying Oil Seal From Clutch Housing

3. Drive in the new oil seal from the transmission side using the special tools.
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Fig. 178: Driving In New Oil Seal

Adjustable bearing puller, 45-75 mm 07YAC-0010100

Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
Driver 07749-0010000
1. Remove the bearing set plate (A) from the clutch housing (B).
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Fig. 179: Identifying Bearing Set Plate

2. Remove the needle bearing (A) from the clutch housing (B) using the special
tool and a commercially available 3/8"-16 slide hammer (C).
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Fig. 180: Identifying Needle Bearing

3. Install the new needle bearing using the special tool.
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Fig. 181: Identifying New Needle Bearing

4. Install the bearing set plate (A) with the bolts (B).
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Fig. 182: Identifying Bearing Set Plate

MAINSHAFT THRUST CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
Mainshaft holder 07GAJ-PG20110

Mainshaft base 07GAJ-PG20130
NOTE: Carry out the measurement at normal room

temperature.
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Clean all the parts thoroughly before installation.
1. Remove the 82 mm shim (A) from the transmission housing (B).
Fig. 183: Identifying 82 mm Shim

2. Install the ball bearing (A), 3rd/4th synchro hub (B), distance collar (C),
5th/6th synchro hub (D), distance collar (E), and ball bearing (F) on the
mainshaft (G), then install the assembled mainshaft in the transmission housing
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(H).
Fig. 184: Identifying Ball Bearing

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3. Measure distance (1) between the end of the transmission housing and ball
bearing with a straight edge and a depth gauge. Measure at three locations, and
average the reading.
4. Measure distance (2) (the depth of the clutch housing) with a straight edge and
a depth gauge. Measure at three locations, and average the reading.
Fig. 185: Measuring Distance (2) (The Depth Of Clutch Housing) With
Straight Edge and Depth Gauge
Shim Selection Formula

5. Select the proper 82 mm shim from the chart. Follow the example below, and
use the measurements you made in steps 3 and 4.
(Basic Formula)
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(2) - (1) - (0.85 + 0.14) = shim thickness (maximum)

(2) - (1) - (0.85 + 0.21) = shim thickness (minimum)
Subtract distance (2) (step 4) from distance (1) (step 3).
0.85 mm (0.033 in.): Spring washer, a dimension in the installation.
0.14 mm (0.006 in.): Minimum thrust clearance.
0.21 mm (0.008 in.): Maximum thrust clearance.
(For example)
21.04 - 17.97 - (0.85 + 0.14) = 2.08 mm (0.082 in.)

21.04 - 17.97 - (0.85 + 0.21) = 2.01 mm (0.079 in.)
Take the middle value 2.04 mm (0.080 in.) of the minimum value and the
maximum value, and select the 0.93 mm (0.037 in.) and 1.11 mm (0.044 in.)
shims.
NOTE: You may need to select two thicknesses of the 82 mm

shim from 82 MM SHIM THICKNESS CHART .

A 23931-PR8-F00 0.60 mm (0.024 in.)
B 23932-PR8-F00 0.63 mm (0.025 in.)
C 23933-PR8-F00 0.66 mm (0.026 in.)
D 23934-PR8-F00 0.69 mm (0.027 in.)
E 23935-PR8-F00 0.72 mm (0.028 in.)
F 23936-PR8-F00 0.75 mm (0.030 in.)
G 23937-PR8-F00 0.78 mm (0.031 in.)
H 23938-PR8-F00 0.81 mm (0.032 in.)
I 23939-PR8-F00 0.84 mm (0.033 in.)
J 23940-PR8-F00 0.87 mm (0.034 in.)
K 23941-PR8-F00 0.90 mm (0.035 in.)
L 23942-PR8-F00 0.93 mm (0.037 in.)
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M 23943-PR8-F00 0.96 mm (0.038 in.)

N 23944-PR8-F00 0.99 mm (0.039 in.)
0 23945-PR8-F00 1.02 mm (0.040 in.)
P 23946-PR8-F00 1.05 mm (0.041 in.)
Q 23947-PR8-F00 1.08 mm (0.043 in.)
R 23948-PR8-F00 1.11 mm (0.044 in.)
S 23949-PR8-F00 1.14 mm (0.045 in.)
T 23950-PR8-F00 1.17 mm (0.046 in.)
U 23951-PR8-F00 1.20 mm (0.047 in.)
W 23952-RAT-000 1.23 mm (0.048 in.)
X 23953-RAT-000 1.26 mm (0.050 in.)
Y 23954-RAT-000 1.29 mm (0.051 in.)
Z 23955-RAT-000 1.32 mm (0.052 in.)
AA 23956-RAT-000 1.35 mm (0.053 in.)
AB 23957-RAT-000 1.38 mm (0.054 in.)
AC 23958-RAT-000 1.41 mm (0.056 in.)
AD 23959-RAT-000 1.44 mm (0.057 in.)
6. Install the 82 mm shim (A) selected in the transmission housing (B).
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7. Thoroughly clean the spring washer (A) before installing it on the clutch
housing (B). Note the installation direction of the spring washer (see
TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY).
8. Install the mainshaft in the clutch housing.
9. Place the transmission housing over the mainshaft and onto the clutch housing.
10. Tighten the clutch and transmission housings with several 10 mm bolts.
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NOTE: It is not necessary to use sealing agent between the

housings.
11. Lightly tap on the mainshaft with a plastic hammer.

12. Attach the special tool to the mainshaft as follows:
Back-out the mainshaft holder bolt (A), and loosen the two hex bolts (B).
Fit the holder over the mainshaft so its lip is towards the transmission.
Align the mainshaft holder lip around the groove at the inside of the
mainshaft splines, then tighten the hex bolts.
Fig. 187: Attaching Special Tool To Mainshaft

13. Fully seat the mainshaft by tapping on its end with a plastic hammer.
14. Thread in the mainshaft holder bolt until it just contacts the wide surface of the
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mainshaft base.
15. Zero a dial gauge (A) on the end of the mainshaft.
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Fig. 188: Zeroing Dial Gauge On End Of Mainshaft

16. Turn the mainshaft holder bolt (B) clockwise; stop turning when the dial gauge
has reached its maximum movement. The reading on the dial gauge is the
amount of mainshaft end play.
NOTE: Do not turn the mainshaft holder bolt more than 60

degrees after the needle of the dial gauge stops
moving. Applying more pressure with the mainshaft
holder bolt may damage the transmission.
17. If the reading is within the standard, the clearance is correct. If the reading is
not within the standard, recheck the shim thickness.
Standard: 0.14-0.21 mm (0.006-0.008 in.)

TRANSMISSION REASSEMBLY
NOTE: Prior to reassembling, clean all parts in solvent, dry them,

and apply lubricant to all contact surfaces.
1. Press the new dust seal (A) into the transmission housing surface, then install
the shift lever (B), shift arm (C), 8 mm spring washer (D), and 8 mm special
bolt (E).
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Fig. 189: Pressing New Dust Seal Into Transmission Housing Surface
2. Select the proper size 82 mm shim (A) according to the measurements made
during the Mainshaft Thrust Clearance Adjustment (see MAINSHAFT
THRUST CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT). Install it into the transmission
housing (B).
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Fig. 190: Selecting Proper Size 82 mm Shim

3. Install the steel ball (A), relief valve spring (B), oil pump outer rotor (C), oil
pump inner rotor (D), and oil pump plate (E).
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Fig. 191: Identifying Steel Ball

4. Install the differential assembly (A) and oil pump shaft (B).
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Fig. 192: Identifying Differential Assembly

5. Install the 64 mm spring washer (A). Note the installation direction of the 64
mm spring washer.
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Fig. 193: Identifying 64 mm Spring Washer

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6. Apply tape to the mainshaft splines (B) to protect the seal. Install the mainshaft
and countershaft (C) into the shift forks (D) as an assembly.
7. Press the new dust seal (A) into the clutch housing surface, then install the
select lever (B), select arm (C), new 5 mm spring pin (D), and new 3 mm
spring pin (E).
Fig. 194: Pressing New Dust Seal Into Clutch Housing Surface
8. Set the select return spring (A), pin (B), and interlock (C) as shown in Fig. 195.
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Fig. 195: Setting Select Return Spring

9. Install the shift piece (A) and shift piece shaft (B).
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Fig. 196: Identifying Shift Piece And Shift Piece Shaft

10. Install the 33 mm spring washer (A). Note the installation direction of the
spring washer.
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Fig. 197: Identifying 33 Mm Spring Washer

11. Install the 20 mm thrust needle bearing (B), 20 mm thrust washers (C), reverse
idler gear shaft assembly (D), and reverse shift fork (E) as an assembly.
12. Slide the reverse idler gear shaft assembly (A) on the rib (B) of the clutch
housing, then install it into the hole (C) of the clutch housing.
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Fig. 198: Sliding Reverse Idler Gear Shaft Assembly On Rib Of Clutch
Housing
13. Install the reverse shift lever (A), and pin (B).
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Fig. 199: Identifying Reverse Shift Lever

14. Install the oil guide pipe A, oil guide pipe (B), and magnet (C).
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Fig. 200: Identifying Oil Guide Pipe

15. Remove any dirt or oil from the transmission housing sealing surface. Apply
liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the sealing surface. Make sure you seal the
entire circumference of the bolt holes to prevent oil leakage.
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Fig. 201: Applying Liquid Gasket To Sealing Surface

16. Install the 14 x 20 mm dowel pins (A).
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Fig. 202: Identifying 14 X 20 mm Dowel Pins

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17. Lower the transmission housing, then place the shift arm (B) in the groove of
the shift piece (C) by turning the change lever (D).
18. While expanding the 75 mm snap ring (E) of the countershaft ball bearing with
snap ring pliers, push the transmission housing down to start the countershaft
ball bearing through the snap ring. Then release the pliers, and push down the
housing until it bottoms and the snap ring snaps in place in the counter shaft
ball bearing snap ring groove.
19. Make sure the 75 mm snap ring is securely seated in the groove of the
countershaft bearing.
Dimension (1) as installed: 9.91 - 11.52 mm (0.390-0.454 in.)
20. Install the new 37.7 mm O-ring (F) and transmission case cap (G).
NOTE: Check the operation of the change lever.
21. Install the transmission hanger (A), transmission hanger (B), 8 mm flange bolt
(C), and the 10 mm flange bolts, finger-tight.
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Fig. 203: Identifying Transmission Hanger

22. Tighten the 10 mm flange bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps.

10 x 1.25 MM: 44 Nm (4.5 kgf.m, 33 lbf.ft)
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Fig. 204: Tightening 10 mm Flange Bolts In Crisscross Pattern

23. Install the oil check bolt (A), new 6 mm washer (B), drain plug (C), and new
14 mm washer (D).
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Fig. 205: Identifying Oil Check Bolt

24. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the set screws (A), then install the set
screws, 22 mm spring (B), 27.4 mm spring (C), steel balls (D), output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor (E), input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (F), and
new O-rings (G).
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Fig. 206: Applying Liquid Gasket To Set Screws

25. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the set screws (A), then install the set
screws, 22.0 mm spring (B), 26.1 mm spring (C), 27.4 mm springs (D), steel
balls (E), oil filler plug (F), washer (G), and clutch line bracket (H).
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Fig. 207: Applying Liquid Gasket To Set Screws

26. Remove any dirt or oil from the reverse lockout solenoid sealing surface.
Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the sealing surface.

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Fig. 208: Applying Liquid Gasket To Sealing Surface

27. Install the transmission harness stay (A) and reverse lockout solenoid (B).
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Fig. 209: Identifying Transmission Harness Stay

28. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the threads of the back-up light
switch (C), and install the switch in the transmission housing.
29. Install the strainer cover (A), new O-ring (B), strainer set spring (C), and oil
pump strainer (D).
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Fig. 210: Identifying Strainer Cover

GEARSHIFT MECHANISM REPLACEMENT
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Fig. 211: Identifying Gearshift Mechanism Components

M/T DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 212: Locating M/T Differential Components

BACKLASH INSPECTION
1. Install the driveshaft and intermediate shaft into the differential assembly.
2. Carefully clamp the driveshaft (A) in a vise (B).

3. Place the intermediate shaft (C) on a V-block (D), then fix the intermediate
shaft using a vise or equivalent (E).
4. Measure the backlash of the final driven gear (F) with a dial indicator (G). If
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the backlash is not within the standard, replace the differential carrier.

Installer, 46 mm I.D. 07PAF-0030100
1. Check the carrier bearings for wear and rough rotation. If they rotate smoothly
and their rollers show no signs of wear, the bearings are OK.
2. Remove the carrier bearing (A) with a commercially-available bearing puller
(B).
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Fig. 214: Identifying Carrier Bearing

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3. Install the new bearings with the special tool and a press. Press each bearing on
until it bottoms out. There should be no clearance between the bearings and the
carrier.
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Fig. 215: Identifying New Bearings With Special Tool And Press
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Driver 07749-0010000
Oil seal driver attachment 07NAD-P20A100
1. Ramove the oil seal (A) from the transmission housing (B). be careful when
removing the seal to avoid damaging the transmission housing.
Fig. 216: Identifying Oil Seal

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2. Remove the oil seal (A) from the clutch housing (B). Be careful when
removing the seal to avoid damaging the clutch housing.
Fig. 217: Identifying Oil Seal From Clutch Housing

3. Install the new oil seal in the transmission housing with the driver (A) and oil
seal driver attachment (B)..
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Fig. 218: Identifying New Oil Seal In Transmission Housing

4. Install the new oil seal in the clutch housing with the special tools.
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Fig. 219: Identifying New Oil Seal In Clutch Housing

BEARING OUTER RACE REPLACEMENT

Driver 07749-0010000
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NOTE: The bearing outer race and tapered roller bearing

should be replaced as a set.
Inspect and adjust the tapered roller bearing preload
whenever the tapered roller bearing is replaced.
1. Remove the oil seals from the transmission housing and clutch housing (see
OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT).
2. Remove the bearing outer race, spacer, and 81 mm shim from the transmission
housing and clutch housing by heating the housing to about 212F (100C)
with a heat gun. Do not reuse the thrust shim if the outer race was driven out.
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Fig. 220: Heating Housing With Heat Gun

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3. Install the 81 mm shim (A), spacer (B), and bearing outer race (C) into the
transmission housing (D) using the special tools.

4. Install the spacer (A), and bearing outer race (B) into the clutch housing (C)
using the special tools.
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Fig. 222: Identifying Spacer

5. Install the oil seals into the transmission housing (see step 3 ) and clutch
housing (see step 4 ).
CARRIER BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
Driver 07749-0010000
Preload inspection tool 07XAJ-S0KA100
If any of the items listed were replaced, the carrier bearing preload must be
adjusted.
Transmission housing
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Clutch housing
Differential carrier
Spacer
Carrier bearing and outer race
1. Remove the oil seals from the transmission housing and clutch housing (see
OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT).
2. If you replaced the carrier bearing on the transmission housing side of the
carrier, remove and discard the bearing outer race, Heat up the transmission
housing to about 212F (100C) with a heat gun (A), then remove the bearing
outer race (B), spacer (C), and 81 mm shim (D). Do not heat the housing in
excess of 212F (100C).
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Fig. 223: Heating Up Transmission Housing With Heat Gun

3. If you replaced the carrier bearing on the clutch housing side of the carrier,
remove and discard the bearing outer race. Heat up the clutch housing to about
212F (100C) with a heat gun (A), then remove the bearing outer race (B) and
spacer (C). Do not heat the housing in excess of 212F (100C).
Fig. 224: Heating Up Clutch Housing With Heat Gun

4. Install the 81 mm shim (A), spacer (B), and bearing outer race (C) in the
transmission housing by using the special tools. (Use a new race if you
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replaced the bearing.) There should be no space between the race, spacer, and
housing.

5. If you removed the bearing outer race from the clutch housing, use the special
tools to install a new bearing outer race (A) and spacer (B). There should be no
space between the race, spacer, and housing.
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Fig. 226: Identifying New Bearing Outer Race And Spacer

6. With the mainshaft and countershaft removed, install the differential assembly,
and bolt the transmission and clutch housing together. Tighten the bolts to 44
N.m (4.5 kgf.m, 33 lbf.ft).

housings for this adjustment.
7. Rotate the differential assembly in both directions to seat the tapered roller
bearings.
8. At normal room temperature, measure the starting torque of the differential
assembly by rotating it in both directions with the special tool and a torque
wrench (A).
Standard: 3.43-4.51 N.m (35-46 kgf.cm, 30-40 lbf.in.)

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Fig. 227: Measuring Starting Torque Of Differential Assembly

9. If the carrier bearing preload is not within the standard, select a 81 mm thrust
shim that will provide the correct preload:
Compare the bearing preload you got on the first try with the specified
preload of 3.43-4.51 N.m (35-46 kgf.cm, 30-40 lbf.in.).
If the preload you measure was less than specified, subtract it from the
specified preload.
If the preload you measure was more than specified, subtract it from the
specified preload.
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Fig. 228: Example Of Thrust Shim

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A 41438-PYZ-000 2.05 mm (0.081 in.)
B 41439-PYZ-000 2.08 mm (0.082 in.)
C 41440-PYZ-000 2.11 mm (0.083 in.)
D 41441-PYZ-000 2.14 mm (0.084 in.)
E 41442-PYZ-000 2.17 mm (0.085 in.)
F 41443-PYZ-000 2.20 mm (0.087 in.)
G 41444-PYZ-000 2.23 mm (0.088 in.)
H 41445-PYZ-000 2.26 mm (0.089 in.)
J 41446-PYZ-000 2.29 mm (0.090 in.)
K 41447-PYZ-000 2.32 mm (0.091 in.)
L 41448-PYZ-000 2.35 mm (0.093 in.)
M 41449-PYZ-000 2.38 mm (0.094 in.)
N 41450-PYZ-000 2.41 mm (0.095 in.)
P 41451-PYZ-000 2.44 mm (0.096 in.)
Q 41452-PYZ-000 2.47 mm (0.097 in.)
R 41453-PYZ-000 2.50 mm (0.098 in.)
S 41454-PYZ-000 2.53 mm (0.100 in.)
T 41455-PYZ-000 2.56 mm (0.101 in.)
U 41456-PYZ-000 2.59 mm (0.102 in.)
V 41457-PYZ-000 2.62 mm (0.103 in.)
W 41458-PYZ-000 2.65 mm (0.104 in.)
X 41459-PYZ-000 2.68 mm (0.106 in.)
Y 41460-PYZ-000 2.71 mm (0.107 in.)
Z 41461-PYZ-000 2.74 mm (0.108 in.)
AA 41462-PYZ-000 2.77 mm (0.109 in.)
AB 41463-PYZ-000 2.80 mm (0.110 in.)
AC 41464-PYZ-000 2.83 mm (0.111 in.)
AD 41465-PYZ-000 2.86 mm (0.113 in.)
AE 41466-PYZ-000 2.89 mm (0.114 in.)
AF 41467-PYZ-000 2.92 mm (0.115 in.)
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AG 41468-PYZ-000 2.95 mm (0.116 in.)

AH 41469-PYZ-000 2.98 mm (0.117 in.)
AJ 41470-PYZ-000 3.01 mm (0.119 in.)
AK 41471-PYZ-000 3.04 mm (0.120 in.)
AL 41472-PYZ-000 3.07 mm (0.121 in.)
AM 41473-PYZ-000 3.10 mm (0.122 in.)
AN 41474-PYZ-000 3.13 mm (0.123 in.)
AP 41475-PYZ-000 3.16 mm (0.124 in.)
10. Once the carrier bearing preload is correct, disassemble the transmission
housing, and install new oil seals in the differential (see step 4 in Oil Seal
Replacement ).
11. REASSEMBLE THE TRANSMISSION (see TRANSMISSION
REASSEMBLY).
12. Reinstall the transmission (see TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION).
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2003-07 TRANSMISSION Manual Transmission - Accord
Manual Transmission - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fig. 1: View Of Special Service Tools And Description Chart

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2007 Honda Accord
TRANSMISSION FLUID INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
1. Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Remove the oil filler plug (A) and washer (B), check the condition of the fluid,
and make sure it is at the proper level (C).
Fig. 2: Removing Oil Filler Plug And Washer

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3. If the fluid is dirty, remove the drain plug (D) and drain the fluid.

4. Install the drain plug with a new washer, and refill the transmission fluid to the
proper level.
Fluid Capacity
1.9 L (2.0 US qt) at fluid change
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Always use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using engine oil can
cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives.
5. Install the oil filler plug with a new washer.

BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH TEST
1. Disconnect the back-up light switch 2P connector (A).
Fig. 4: Disconnecting Back-Up Light Switch 2P Connector

2. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the back-up
light switch 2P connector. There should be continuity when the shift lever is in
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Reverse.
3. If necessary, replace the back-up light switch. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-
0001), and install it on the transmission housing.
Engine hanger/adapter VSB02C000015 *

Engine support hanger, A & Reds AAR-T-12566 *
Subframe adapter VSB02C000016 *
* Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857.
system, then write down the customer's audio presets.
6. Remove the battery base (see step 10 on ENGINE REMOVAL ).
7. Carefully remove the slave cylinder without bending the clutch line. Do not
press the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed.
Type A:
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Fig. 5: Removing Slave Cylinder (Type A)

Type B:
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Fig. 6: Removing Slave Cylinder (Type B)

8. Remove the cable bracket (A), then disconnect the cables (B) from the top of
the transmission housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket
together to avoid bending the cables.
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Fig. 7: Removing Cable Bracket And Disconnecting Cables From

Transmission Housing Top
9. Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (A) and
back-up light switch connector (B).
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Fig. 8: Disconnecting Output Shaft Speed Sensor Connector And Back-Up

Light Switch Connector
10. Disconnect the secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) connector
(A), then remove the bracket (B).
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Fig. 9: Disconnecting Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor Connector And

Removing Bracket
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Fig. 10: Removing Front Mount Stop And Front Mount Bolt
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12. Remove the rear mount stop.
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Fig. 11: Removing Rear Mount Stop

13. Remove the transmission upper mounting bolts.
Fig. 12: Removing Transmission Upper Mounting Bolts

14. Remove and plug the return hose (A) from the power steering fluid reservoir
(B). Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
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Fig. 13: Removing And Plug Return Hose From Power Steering Fluid
Reservoir
15. Remove the power steering pump outlet line (C) from the power steering pump
(D).
16. Remove the power steering pump outlet line bracket (E).
17. Attach the special tool to the threaded hole in the cylinder head.
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Fig. 14: Attaching Special Tool To Threaded Hole In Cylinder Head

18. Install the engine support hanger (AAR-T-12566) to the vehicle, and attach the
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hook (A) to the special tool adapter (B). Tighten the wing nut (C) by hand, and
lift and support the engine.
Fig. 15: Installing Engine Support Hanger To Vehicle

19. Remove the transmission mount bracket (A) and ground cable (B).
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Fig. 16: Removing Transmission Mount Bracket And Ground Cable

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slider shaft (E) on the column with a piece of wire (F) between the joint yoke
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(G) on the slider shaft and the joint yoke on the upper shaft (see STEERING
COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
24. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer (see
TRANSMISSION FLUID INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT ).
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Fig. 18: Removing Splash Shield

26. Separate the tie-rod ball joint (see step 8 on STEERING GEARBOX
OVERHAUL ).
27. Separate the front stabilizer link (see step 6 on DRIVESHAFT
INSPECTION ).
28. Remove the damper fork (see step 7 on DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL ).
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29. Separate the knuckle from the lower arm (see step 8 on DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL ).


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Fig. 20: Removing Exhaust Pipe

32. Remove the left and right driveshaft inboard joints (see step 12 on
DRIVESHAFT DISASSEMBLY )
REMOVAL ).
34. Remove the engine lower rear mount mounting bolts.
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Fig. 21: Removing Engine Lower Rear Mount Mounting Bolts

35. Remove the transmission lower mount mounting nuts.

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Fig. 22: Removing Transmission Lower Mount Mounting Nuts

36. Remove the subframe mid mounts from both sides.
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Fig. 23: Removing Subframe Mid Mounts

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Fig. 24: Placing Reference Lines At Subframe Both Ends

38. Attach the special tool to the subframe by wrapping the band over the subframe
and attaching the end of the band to the tool with a pin (A).
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Fig. 25: Attaching Band End To Tool

39. Raise the jack, and line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the
corner of the jack base, then attach them securely.
40. Remove the front suspension subframe stays (A) and the front suspension
subframe (B).
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Fig. 26: Removing Front Suspension Subframe Stays And Front

Suspension Subframe
41. Remove the front engine mount upper bracket.
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Fig. 27: Removing Front Engine Mount Upper Bracket

42. Remove the shift cable bracket (A), rear engine mount upper mounting bolt
(B), and rear engine mount (C).
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Fig. 28: Removing Shift Cable Bracket, Rear Engine Mount Upper
Mounting Bolt And Rear Engine Mount
43. Remove the rear engine mount upper bracket.
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Fig. 29: Removing Rear Engine Mount Upper Bracket

44. Remove the clutch cover.
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Fig. 30: Removing Clutch Cover

transmission lower mounting bolts.
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Fig. 31: Removing Transmission Lower Mounting Bolts

46. Pull the transmission away from the engine until the transmission mainshaft
clears the clutch pressure plate, then lower the transmission on the transmission
jack.
47. Remove the transmission lower front mount (A) and transmission lower rear
mount (B).
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Fig. 32: Removing Transmission Lower Front Mount And Transmission

Lower Rear Mount
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Fig. 33: Removing Release Fork Boot From Clutch Housing

fork set spring (D) with pliers. Remove the release bearing (E).

Engine hanger/adapter VSB02C000015 *
Engine support hanger, A & Reds AAR-T-12566 *
Subframe adapter VSB02C000016 *
* Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857.

1. Make sure the two dowel pins are installed in the clutch housing.
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the release bearing (B) and the mainshaft splines. Install the release fork, the
release bearing, and the boot (C).
Fig. 34: Locating Grease Applying Point

3. Install the transmission lower front mount (A) and transmission lower rear
mount (B).
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Fig. 35: Installing Transmission Lower Front Mount And Transmission

Lower Rear Mount
4. Place the transmission on the transmission jack, and raise it to engine level.
5. Install the transmission mounting lower bolts.
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Fig. 36: Installing Transmission Mounting Lower Bolts

6. Install the clutch cover.
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Fig. 37: Installing Clutch Cover

7. Install the rear engine mount upper bracket.
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Fig. 38: Installing Rear Engine Mount Upper Bracket

8. Install the rear engine mount (A), rear engine mount upper mounting bolt (B),
and shift cable bracket (C).
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Fig. 39: Installing Rear Engine Mount, Rear Engine Mount Upper
Mounting Bolt And Shift Cable Bracket
9. Install the front engine mount upper bracket.
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Fig. 40: Installing Front Engine Mount Upper Bracket

10. Support the subframe with the subframe adapter and a jack.
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Fig. 41: Supporting Subframe With Subframe Adapter And Jack

11. Install the front suspension subframe (A) and front suspension subframe stays
(B).
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Fig. 42: Installing Front Suspension Subframe And Front Suspension

Subframe Stays
12. Align the reference marks (A) with the edge (B) of both rear stiffeners (C),
then tighten the rear subframe mounting bolts, the front bolts, and the stiffener
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bolts to the specified torque.
Fig. 43: Aligning Reference Marks With Rear Stiffeners Edge

13. Install the subframe mid mounts on both sides.
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Fig. 44: Installing Subframe Mid Mounts

14. Install the transmission lower mount mounting nuts.
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Fig. 45: Installing Transmission Lower Mount Mounting Nuts

15. Install the engine lower rear mount mounting bolts.
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Fig. 46: Installing Engine Lower Rear Mount Mounting Bolts

16. Install the intermediate shaft (see INTERMEDIATE SHAFT

INSTALLATION ).
17. Install the left and right inboard joints (see DRIVESHAFT
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INSTALLATION ).
18. Install the knuckle onto the lower arm (see step 6 on DRIVESHAFT
INSTALLATION ).
19. Install the damper fork (see step 8 on DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION ).
20. Connect the front stabilizer links (see step 10 on DRIVESHAFT
INSTALLATION ).
21. Install exhaust pipe A, the mount (B), and new gaskets (C).
Fig. 47: Installing Exhaust Pipe, Mount And Gasket


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23. Connect the return line to the power steering fluid reservoir.
24. Install the tie-rod ball joint (see step 23 on STEERING GEARBOX
INSTALLATION ).
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Fig. 49: Installing Splash Shield

26. Refill the transmission with fluid.

27. Install the front wheels, and set them in the straight ahead position.
28. Lower the vehicle.
29. Unlock the steering wheel.
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32. Install the transmission mount bracket (A) and ground cable (B).
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Fig. 51: Installing Transmission Mount Bracket And Ground Cable

33. Remove the engine hanger and the special tool from the engine.
pump (C), and secure the hose clamp (D) with the bolt.
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Fig. 52: Installing Power Steering Pump Outlet Line With O-Ring To
Pump
35. Connect the return hose (E) to the power steering fluid reservoir (F), then
secure the hose with the clamp (G).
36. Install the transmission upper mounting bolts.
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Fig. 53: Installing Transmission Upper Mounting Bolts

37. Install the engine rear mount stop.
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Fig. 54: Installing Engine Rear Mount Stop

38. Install the engine front mount mounting bolt (A) and front mount stop (B).
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Fig. 55: Installing Engine Front Mount Mounting Bolt And Front Mount
Stop
39. Install the bracket (A), then connect the secondary heated oxygen sensor
(secondary HO2S) connector (B).
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Fig. 56: Connecting Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor Connector

40. Connect the back-up light switch connector (A) and output shaft (countershaft)
speed sensor connector (B).
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Fig. 57: Connecting Back-Up Light Switch Connector And Output Shaft
Speed Sensor Connector
41. Install the cable bracket (A) and cables (B).
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Fig. 58: Installing Cable Bracket And Cables

cable ends, and install new cotter pins (C).
43. Apply super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the end of the cylinder
rod. Install the slave cylinder. Be careful not to bend the clutch line.
Type A:
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Fig. 59: Installing Slave Cylinder (Type A)

Type B:
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Fig. 60: Installing Slave Cylinder (Type B)

44. Install the battery base (see step 47 on ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
45. Install the air cleaner housing (see AIR CLEANER
46. Remove the steering wheel (see STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL ).
points straight up.
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48. Reinstall the steering wheel (see STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION ).

the negative cable.
50. Fill the power steering fluid reservoir with fluid to the upper level line.
51. Start the engine, and run it at fast idle, then turn the steering wheel from lock-
52. Recheck the fluid level, and refill if necessary.
53. Check the front wheel alignment (see WHEEL ALIGNMENT ).
54. Check the steering wheel spoke angle. If the steering spoke angles to the right
and left are not equal (steering wheel and rack are not centered), correct the
engagement of the joint/pinion shaft serrations, then adjust the front toe by
turning the tie-rod ends if necessary. If you need to correct the engagement of
the joint/pinion shaft, repeat steps 46-48 after disconnecting the battery and
waiting 3 minutes.
57. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio and navigation system, then enter the
customer's audio presets.
TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY
EXPLODED VIEW-CLUTCH HOUSING
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Fig. 61: Exploded View Of Clutch Housing Components

EXPLODED VIEW-TRANSMISSION HOUSING
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Fig. 62: Exploded View Of Transmission Housing Components

NOTE: Place the clutch housing on two pieces of wood thick

enough to keep the mainshaft from hitting the workbench.
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1. Remove the detent bolts (A), springs, steel balls, and back-up light switch (B).
Fig. 63: Removing Detent Bolts, Springs, Steel Balls, And Back-Up Light
Switch
2. Remove the transmission hanger (C), 20 mm bolt (D), and 20 mm washer (E).
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3. Remove the interlock bolt (B), change lever assembly (C), 8 x 14 mm dowel
pins (D), and harness bracket A.
Fig. 64: Removing Interlock Bolt, Change Lever Assembly And Harness
Bracket
4. Remove the drain plug (A), filler plug (B), and 10 mm flange bolt(C).
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Fig. 65: Removing Drain Plug And Filler Plug

5. Remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (D), plain washer (E), and
O-ring (F).
6. Loosen the 8 mm flange bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then
remove them.
7. Remove the transmission hanger A, transmission hanger B, and harness
bracket B (C).
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Fig. 66: Removing Transmission Hangers And Harness Bracket

8. Remove the 32 mm sealing cap (A).
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Fig. 67: Removing Sealing Cap

9. While expanding the 72 mm snap ring (B) of the countershaft ball bearing with
snap ring pliers, lift the transmission housing (C). Release the snap ring pliers,
and remove the transmission housing and 14 x 20 mm dowel pins (D).
10. Remove the reverse lock cam.
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Fig. 68: Removing Reverse Lock Cam

11. Remove the reverse idler gear (A) and reverse gear shaft (B).
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Fig. 69: Removing Reverse Idler Gear And Reverse Gear Shaft
12. Remove the reverse shift fork.
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Fig. 70: Removing Reverse Shift Fork

13. Apply tape to the mainshaft splines to protect the seal, then remove the
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mainshaft assembly (A) and the countershaft assembly (B) with the shift forks
(C) from the clutch housing (D).
Fig. 71: Removing Spring Washer And Washer

14. Remove the 28 mm spring washer (E) and the 28 mm washer (F).
15. Remove the differential assembly (A) and magnet (B).
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Fig. 72: Removing Differential Assembly And Magnet

16. Remove the oil gutter plate (A), 72 mm shim (B), and oil guide plate M.
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Fig. 73: Removing Oil Gutter Plate And Oil Guide Plate
REVERSE SHIFT FORK CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Measure the clearance between the reverse idler gear (A) and the reverse shift
fork (B) with a feeler gauge (C). If the clearance is more than the service limit,
go to step 2.
Standard: 0.20-0.59 mm (0.007-0.024 in.)
Fig. 74: Measuring Clearance Between Reverse Idler Gear And Reverse
Shift Fork
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2. Measure the width of the reverse shift fork.

If the width is not within the standard, replace the reverse shift fork.
If the width is within the standard, replace the reverse gear.
Standard: 13.4-13.7 mm (0.527-0.539 in.)
Fig. 75: Identifying Reverse Shift Fork Width

CHANGE LEVER CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Measure the clearance between change lever (A) and the select lever (B) with a
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Standard: 0.05-0.25 mm (0.002-0.010 in.)

Fig. 76: Measuring Clearance Between Change Lever And Select Lever
2. Measure the groove width of the change lever.
If the groove width is not within the standard, replace the change lever.
If the groove width is within the standard, replace the select lever.
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Standard: 15.00-15.10 mm (0.591-0.594 in.)
Fig. 77: Identifying Change Lever Groove Width

CHANGE LEVER ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them, and apply grease to
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contact surfaces as shown in Fig. 78.
Fig. 78: Exploded View Of Change Lever And Related Components

SHIFT FORK CLEARANCE INSPECTION
NOTE: The synchro sleeve and synchro hub should be replaced as

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a set.
1. Measure the clearance between each shift fork (A) and its matching synchro
sleeve (B). If the clearance exceeds the service limit, go to step 2.
Standard: 0.35-0.65 mm (0.014-0.026 in.)
Fig. 79: Measuring Clearance Between Shift Fork And Synchro Sleeve
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2. Measure the thickness of the shift fork fingers.
If the thickness is not within the standard, replace the shift fork.
If the thickness is within the standard, replace the synchro sleeve.
If one arm of the shift fork shows more wear than others, the fork may be
bent and needs to be replaced.
Standard: 7.4-7.6 mm (0.29-0.30 in.)
Fig. 80: Identifying Shift Fork Fingers Thickness

3. Measure the clearance between the shift fork (A) and the shift arm (B). If the
clearance exceeds the service limit, go to step 4.
Standard: 0.2-0.5 mm (0.008-0.020 in.)

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Fig. 81: Measuring Clearance Between Shift Fork And Shift Arm
4. Measure the width of the shift arm.

If the width is not within the standard, replace the shift arm.
If the width is within the standard, replace the shift fork.
Standard: 16.9-17.0 mm (0.665-0.669 in.)
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Fig. 82: Identifying Shift Arm Width

SHIFT FORK DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them, and apply lubricant to
all contact surfaces.
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Fig. 83: View Of Shift Forks

MAINSHAFT ASSEMBLY CLEARANCE INSPECTION

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sleeve and hub as a set.
1. Support the bearing inner race with an appropriate sized socket (A), and push
down on the mainshaft (B).
Standard: 0.06-0.16 mm (0.002-0.006 in.)
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Fig. 84: Supporting And Pushing Inner Race

2. Measure the clearance between 2nd gear (C) and 3rd gear (D) with a feeler
gauge (E).
If the clearance is more than the service limit, go to step 3.
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If the clearance is within the service limit, go to step 4.

3. Measure the thickness of 3rd gear.

If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace 3rd gear.
If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 3rd/4th synchro hub.
Standard: 23.92-23.97 mm (0.941-0.944 in.)
Fig. 85: Identifying 3rd Gear Thickness

4. Measure the clearance between 4th gear (A) and the distance collar (B) with a
Standard: 0.06-0.16 mm (0.002-0.006 in.)
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Fig. 86: Measuring Clearance Between 4th Gear And Distance Collar
5. Measure distance (1)on the distance collar shown in Fig. 87.

Standard: 24.03-24.08 mm (0.946-0.947 in.)

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Fig. 87: Identifying Distance On Distance Collar


If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 3rd/4th synchro hub.
Standard: 23.92-23.97 mm (0.941-0.944 in.)

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Fig. 88: Identifying 4th Gear Thickness

7. Measure the clearance between the distance collar (A) and 5th gear (B) with a
Standard: 0.06-0.16 mm (0.002-0.006 in.)
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Fig. 89: Measuring Clearance Between Distance Collar And 5th Gear
8. Measure distance (2) on the distance collar shown in Fig. 90.
Standard: 24.03-24.08 mm (0.946-0.947 in.)
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Fig. 90: Identifying Distance On Distance Collar


If the thickness is within the service limit, replace the 5th synchro hub.
Standard: 23.92-23.97 mm (0.941-0.944 in.)

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Fig. 91: Identifying 5th Gear Thickness

10. Measure the thickness of the MBS distance collar.
If the thickness is not within standard, replace the MBS distance collar.
Standard: 23.95-24.05 mm (0.943-0.947 in.)
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Fig. 92: Identifying MBS Distance Collar Thickness

MAINSHAFT DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the angular ball bearing (A) and the tapered cone ring using a
commercially available bearing separator (B) and a commercially available
bearing puller (C). Make sure the bearing separator is under the tapered cone
ring.
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Fig. 93: Removing Angular Ball Bearing And Tapered Cone Ring
2. Support 5th gear (A) on steel blocks, and press the mainshaft out of the 5th
synchro hub (B). Use of a jaw-type puller can damage the gear teeth.

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3. Support 3rd gear (A) on steel blocks, and press the mainshaft out of the 3rd/4th
synchro hub (B). Use of a jaw-type puller can damage the gear teeth.
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Fig. 95: Supporting 3rd Gear On Steel Blocks

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MAINSHAFT INSPECTION
1. Inspect the gear and bearing surfaces for wear and damage, then measure the
mainshaft at points A, B, C, D, and E. If any part of the mainshaft is less than
the service limit, replace it.
Standard:
A Ball bearing surface (transmission housing side):
27.987-28.000 mm (1.1019-1.1024 in.)
B Distance collar surface:
31.984-32.000 mm (1.2594-1.2598 in.)

C Needle bearing surface:
38.984-39.000 mm (1.5348-1.5354 in.)
D Ball bearing surface (clutch housing side):
27.977-27.990 mm (1.1015-1.1020 in.)
E Bushing surface:
20.80-20.85 mm (0.8189-0.8209 in.)
Service Limit:
A: 27.94 mm (1.100 in.)
B: 31.93 mm (1.257 in.)

C: 38.93 mm (1.533 in.)
D: 27.94 mm (1.100 in.)

E: 20.75 mm (0.817 in.)
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Fig. 96: View Of Mainshaft

2. Inspect the runout by supporting both ends of the mainshaft. Then rotate the
mainshaft two complete turns while measuring with a dial gauge. If the runout
is more than the service limit, replace the mainshaft.
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Fig. 97: Inspecting Mainshaft Runout

MAINSHAFT REASSEMBLY
EXPLODED VIEW
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Fig. 98: Exploded View Of Mainshaft Assembly Components

Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100

Attachment, 30 mm I.D. 07746-0030300

procedure.
1. Clean all the parts in solvent, dry them, and apply lubricant to all contact
surfaces except the 3rd/4th and 5th synchro hubs.
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2. Install the needle bearing and 3rd gear on the mainshaft.

3. Install the double cone synchro assembly (A) by aligning the synchro cone
fingers (B) with the holes in 3rd gear (C), then install the synchro spring (D).
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Fig. 99: Installing Double Cone Synchro Assembly In 3rd Gear

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4. Install the 3rd/4th synchro hub (A) by aligning the synchro cone fingers (B)
with the grooves in the 3rd/4th synchro hub (C).
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Fig. 100: Installing 3rd/4th Synchro Hub

5. Install the 3rd/4th synchro hub (A) using the special tool.
Fig. 101: Installing 3rd/4th Synchro Hub

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6. Install the 3rd/4th synchro sleeve (A) by aligning the stops (B) with the 3rd/4th
synchro sleeve and hub. After installing, check the operation of the 3rd/ 4th
synchro hub set.
Fig. 102: Installing 3rd/4th Synchro Sleeve

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Fig. 103: Installing Synchro Spring

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8. Install the double cone synchro assembly (B) by aligning the synchro cone
fingers (C) with the grooves in the 3rd/4th synchro hub (D).
9. Install 4th gear (A) by aligning the synchro cone fingers (B) with holes in 4th
gear (C).
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Fig. 104: Installing 4th Gear

10. Install the needle bearings, distance collar, 5th gear, and 5th gear synchro
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spring and ring.

11. Install the 5th synchro hub (A) by aligning the synchro cone fingers (B) with
the grooves in the 5th synchro hub (C).
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Fig. 105: Installing 5th Synchro Hub

12. Install the 5th synchro hub (A) using the special tools.
Fig. 106: Installing 5th Synchro Hub

13. Install the 5th synchro sleeve.

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15. Install the synchro ring (B) by aligning the synchro cone fingers (C) with the
grooves in the 5th synchro hub(D).
16. Install the new ball bearing (A) using the special tools and a press (B).
Fig. 108: Installing Ball Bearing

COUNTERSHAFT ASSEMBLY CLEARANCE INSPECTION
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1. Measure the clearance between 1st gear (A) and the distance collar (B) with a
Standard: 0.06-0.16 mm (0.002-0.006 in.)
Fig. 109: Measuring Clearance Between 1st Gear And Distance Collar

If the thickness is not within the standard, replace the distance collar.
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Standard: 23.03-23.08 mm (0.907-0.909 in.)
Fig. 110: Identifying Distance Collar Thickness

3. Measure the thickness of 1st gear.

If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace 1st gear.
Standard: 22.92-22.97 mm (0.902-0.904 in.)

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Fig. 111: Identifying 1st Gear Thickness

4. Measure the clearance between 2nd gear (A) and 3rd gear (B) with a feeler
gauge (C). If the clearance is more than the service limit, go to step 5.
Standard: 0.06-0.16 mm (0.002-0.006 in.)
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Fig. 112: Measuring Clearance Between 2nd Gear And 3rd Gear

If the thickness is not within the standard, replace the distance collar.
Standard: 28.03-28.08 mm (1.104-1.106 in.)
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Fig. 113: Identifying Distance Collar Thickness

6. Measure the thickness of 2nd gear.

If the thickness is less than the service limit, replace 2nd gear.
Standard: 27.92-27.97 mm (1.099-1.101 in.)

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Fig. 114: Identifying 2nd Gear Thickness

COUNTERSHAFT DISASSEMBLY
1. Securely clamp the countershaft assembly in a vise with wood blocks.
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Fig. 115: Clamping Countershaft Assembly In Vise With Wood Blocks

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2. Remove the special bolt (left-hand threads).

3. Support the ball bearing (A) on steel blocks (B), then use a press (C) and an
attachment (D) to press the countershaft out of the ball bearing.
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Fig. 116: Removing Countershaft From Ball Bearing

4. Remove the 35 mm shim and distance collar.

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attachment (D) to press the countershaft (E) out of 5th gear.
Fig. 117: Removing Countershaft From 5th Gear

6. Support 2nd gear (A) on steel blocks (B), then use a press (C) and an
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attachment (D) to press the countershaft (E) out of 3rd gear.
Fig. 118: Removing Countershaft From 3rd Gear

COUNTERSHAFT INSPECTION
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1. Inspect the gear and bearing surfaces for wear and damage, then measure the
countershaft at points A, B, and C. If any part of the countershaft is less than
the service limit, replace it.
Standard:
A. Ball bearing surface (transmission housing side): 30.020-30.033 mm
(1.1819-1.1824 in.)
B. Distance collar surface: 39.937-39.950 mm (1.5723-1.5728 in.)
C. Needle bearing surface (clutch housing side): 40.000-40.015 mm
(1.5748-1.5754 in.)
Service Limit:
A. A: 29.97 mm (1.180 in.)
B. B: 39.88 mm (1.570 in.)
C. C: 39.95 mm (1.573 in.)
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Fig. 119: View Of Countershaft

2. Inspect the runout by supporting both ends of the countershaft. Then rotate the
countershaft two complete turns while measuring with a dial gauge. If the
runout exceeds the service limit, replace the countershaft.

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Fig. 120: Inspecting Countershaft Runout

COUNTERSHAFT REASSEMBLY
EXPLODED VIEW
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Fig. 121: Exploded View Of Countershaft Assembly Components


Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
Attachment, 30 mm 07746-0030300

procedure.
1. Clean all parts in solvent, dry them, and apply lubricant to all contact surfaces.
2. Install the distance collar and needle bearing onto the countershaft.
3. Install the triple cone synchro assembly (A) by aligning the synchro cone
fingers (B) with the 1st gear grooves (C), then install the synchro spring (D).
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Fig. 122: Installing Triple Cone Synchro Assembly

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4. Install the 1st/2nd synchro hub (A) by aligning the synchro cone fingers (B)
with the 1st/2nd synchro hub grooves (C).
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Fig. 123: Installing 1st/2nd Synchro Hub

5. Install the reverse gear.

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7. Install the triple cone synchro assembly (B) by aligning the synchro cone
fingers (C) with the 1st/2nd synchro hub grooves (D).
8. Install the distance collar (A) and friction damper (B) by aligning the friction
damper fingers (C) with the 1st/2nd synchro hub grooves (D).
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Fig. 125: Installing Distance Collar And Friction Damper

9. Install the needle bearing.

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10. Install 2nd gear (A) by aligning the synchro cone fingers (B) with the 2nd gear
grooves (C).
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Fig. 126: Installing 2nd Gear

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11. Support the countershaft (A) on steel blocks, then install 3rd gear (B) using the
special tool and a press (C). Do not exceed the maximum pressure.
Fig. 127: Installing 3rd Gear

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12. Install 4th gear (A) using the special tool and a press (B). Do not exceed the
maximum pressure.

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13. Install 5th gear (A) using the special tool and a press (B). Do not exceed the
maximum pressure.
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14. Install the distance collar (A), 35 mm shim, and old ball bearing (B) using the
special tools and a press (C).
Fig. 130: Installing Distance Collar And Ball Bearing

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15. Measure the clearance between the old bearing (A) and the 35 mm shim (B)
with a feeler gauge (C).
Standard: 0.04-0.10 mm (0.0016-0.0039 in.)
Fig. 131: Measuring Clearance Between Old Bearing And Shim

16. If the clearance is more than the standard, select a new shim from the following
table. If the clearance measured in step 15 is within the standard, replace only
the ball bearing.
35 mm Shim
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SHIM THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS (35MM)

A 23981-PPP- 0.87 mm
000 (0.034 in.)
AA 23981-PPP- 0.91 mm
900 (0.036 in.)
B 23982-PPP- 0.95 mm
000 (0.037 in.)
AB 23982-PPP- 0.99 mm
900 (0.039 in.)
C 23983-PPP- 1.03 mm
000 (0.041 in.)
AC 23983-PPP- 1.07 mm
900 (0.042 in.)
D 23984-PPP- 1.11 mm
000 (0.044 in.)
AD 23984-PPP- 1.15 mm
900 (0.045 in.)
E 23985-PPP- 1.19 mm
000 (0.047 in.)
AE 23985-PPP- 1.23 mm
900 (0.048 in.)
F 23986-PPP- 1.27 mm
000 (0.050 in.)
AF 23986-PPP- 1.31 mm
900 (0.052 in.)
G 23987-PPP- 1.35 mm
000 (0.053 in.)
AG 23987-PPP- 1.39 mm
900 (0.055 in.)
H 23988-PPP- 1.43 mm
000 (0.056 in.)
AH 23988-PPP- 1.47 mm
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900 (0.058 in.)

J 23989-PPP- 1.51 mm
000 (0.060 in.)
AJ 23989-PPP- 1.55 mm
900 (0.061 in.)
K 23990-PPP- 1.59 mm
000 (0.063 in.)
AK 23990-PPP- 1.63 mm
900 (0.064 in.)
L 23991-PPP- 1.67 mm
000 (0.066 in.)
AL 23991-PPP- 1.71 mm
900 (0.067 in.)
M 23992-PPP- 1.75 mm
000 (0.069 in.)
AM 23992-PPP- 1.79 mm
900 (0.070 in.)
N 23993-PPP- 1.83 mm
000 (0.072 in.)
AN 23993-PPP- 1.87 mm
900 (0.074 in.)
P 23994-PPP- 1.91 mm
000 (0.075 in.)
AP 23994-PPP- 1.95 mm
900 (0.077 in.)
O 23995-PPP- 1.99 mm
000 (0.078 in.)
17. Support the ball bearing (A) on steel blocks (B), then use a press (C) and an
attachment (D) to press the countershaft (E) out of the ball bearing.
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Fig. 132: Removing Countershaft From Ball Bearing

18. If necessary, install the 35 mm shim selected in step 16, then recheck the
clearance.
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19. Install the distance collar (A), 35 mm shim, and new ball bearing (B) using the
special tools and a press (C).
Fig. 133: Installing Distance Collar, Shim And Ball Bearing

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20. Securely clamp the countershaft assembly in a bench vise with wood blocks
(A).
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Fig. 134: Clamping Countershaft Assembly In Bench Vise And Tightening

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Bolt
21. Tighten the new special bolt (B) (left-hand threads).

SYNCHRO SLEEVE AND HUB INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY
1. Inspect gear teeth on all synchro hubs and synchro sleeves for wear (rounded
off corners).
2. Install each synchro hub (A) in its mating synchro sleeve (B), and check for
free movement. Make sure you match the three sets of longer teeth (C) (120
degrees apart) on the synchro sleeve with the three sets of deeper grooves (D)
in the synchro hub. Do not install the synchro sleeve with its longer teeth in the
1st/2nd synchro hub slots (E) because it will damage the spring ring.

sleeve and synchro hub as a set.
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Fig. 135: Installing Synchro Hub In Mating Synchro Sleeve

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SYNCHRO RING AND GEAR INSPECTION
1. Inspect the inside of each synchro ring (A) for wear. Inspect the teeth (B) on
each synchro ring for wear (rounded off).
Fig. 136: Inspecting Synchro Ring Inside For Wear

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Example of synchro ring teeth
Fig. 137: View Of Synchro Ring Teeth

2. Inspect the teeth (C) on each synchro sleeve and matching teeth on each gear
for wear (rounded off).
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Fig. 138: Inspecting Teeth On Synchro Sleeve And Matching Teeth On

Gear For Wear
Example of synchro sleeve teeth and gear teeth
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Fig. 139: View Of Synchro Sleeve Teeth And Gear Teeth

3. Inspect the thrust surface (D) on each gear hub for wear.
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Fig. 140: Inspecting Thrust Surface On Gear Hub For Wear

4. Inspect the cone surface (E) on each gear hub for wear and roughness.
5. Inspect the teeth on all gears (F) for uneven wear, scoring, galling, and cracks.
6. Coat the cone surface of each gear (E) with oil, and place its synchro ring on it.
Rotate the synchro ring, making sure that it does not slip.
7. Measure the clearance between each gear (A) and its synchro ring (B) all
around the gear. Hold the synchro ring against the gear evenly while measuring
the clearance. If the clearance is less than the service limit, replace the synchro
ring and gear.
Synchro Ring-to-Gear Clearance
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Standard: 0.70-1.49 mm (0.028-0.059 in.)

Double Cone Synchro and Triple Cone Synchro-to-Gear Clearance
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Fig. 141: Identifying Clearance Between Gear And Synchro Ring

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MAINSHAFT BEARING AND OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
Oil seal driver 07JAD-PL90100

Adjustable bearing puller, 20-40 mm 07736-A01000B
Attachment, 42 x 47 mm 07746-0010300
Driver 07749-0010000
1. Remove the differential assembly.

2. Remove the ball bearing (A) from the clutch housing (B) using the special tool
and a commercially available 3/8"-16 slide hammer (C).
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Fig. 142: Removing Ball Bearing From Clutch Housing

3. Remove the oil seal (A) from the clutch housing. Be careful when removing
the seal so the clutch housing is not damaged.
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Fig. 143: Removing Oil Seal From Clutch Housing

4. Drive in the new oil seal from the transmission side using the special tools.
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Fig. 144: Installing Oil Seal From Transmission Side

5. Drive in the new ball bearing (A) from the transmission side using the special
tools.
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Fig. 145: Installing Oil Seal From Transmission Side

Oil seal driver 07JAD-PL90100

Adjustable bearing puller, 20-40 mm 07736-A01000B
Slide hammer, commercially available
1. Remove the bearing set plate (A) from the clutch housing (B).
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Fig. 146: Removing Bearing Set Plate From Clutch Housing

2. Remove the needle bearing (A) using the special tool and a commercially
available 3/8"-16 slide hammer (B), then remove the oil guide plate C.
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Fig. 147: Removing Oil Guide Plate And Needle Bearing

3. Position the oil guide plate C and new needle bearing (A) in the bore of the
clutch housing (B).
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Fig. 148: Positioning Oil Guide Plate And Needle Bearing In Clutch
Housing Bore
4. Install the needle bearing using the special tools.

5. Install the bearing set plate (A) with bolts (B).
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Fig. 149: Installing Bearing Set Plate

MAINSHAFT THRUST CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT

Mainshaft base 07GAJ-PG20130
Mainshaft holder 07GAJ-PG20110
1. Remove the 72 mm shim (A) and oil guide plate M from the transmission
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housing (B).
Fig. 150: Removing Shim And Oil Guide Plate From Transmission
Housing
2. Thoroughly clean the spring washer (A) and washer (B) before installing them
on the clutch housing side ball bearing (C). Note the installation direction of
the spring washer.
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Fig. 151: Installing Spring Washer And Washer

3. Install the 3rd/4th synchro hub, the distance collar, the 5th synchro hub, the
distance collar, and the ball bearing on the mainshaft.
NOTE: Refer to the mainshaft reassembly EXPLODED VIEW

(see MAINSHAFT REASSEMBLY ).
4. Install the mainshaft in the clutch housing.

5. Place the transmission housing over the mainshaft and onto the clutch housing.
6. Secure the clutch and transmission housings with several 8 mm bolts.

housing for this procedure.
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7. Lightly tap on the mainshaft with a plastic hammer.

8. Attach the special tool to the mainshaft as follows:
Back-out the mainshaft holder bolt (A), and loosen the two hex bolts (B).
Fit the holder over the mainshaft so its lip is towards the transmission.
Align the mainshaft holder lip around the groove at the inside of the
mainshaft splines, then tighten the hex bolts.
Fig. 152: Attaching Special Tool To Mainshaft

9. Fully seat the mainshaft by tapping its end with a plastic hammer.
10. Thread the mainshaft holder bolt in until it just contacts the wide surface of the
mainshaft base.
11. Zero a dial gauge (A) on the end of the mainshaft.
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Fig. 153: Attaching Dial Gauge On Mainshaft End

12. Turn the mainshaft holder bolt (B) clockwise; stop turning when the dial gauge
has reached its maximum movement. The reading on the dial gauge is the
amount of mainshaft thrust clearance.
NOTE: Do not turn the mainshaft holder bolt more than 60

degrees after the needle of the dial gauge stops
moving. Applying more pressure with the mainshaft
holder bolt could damage the transmission.
13. If the reading is with in the standard, the clearance is correct. If the reading is
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not within the standard, select the appropriate shim needed from the table, and
recheck the thrust clearance.
Standard. 0.11-0.17 mm (0.004-0.007 in.)
(Example)
Measure reading: 1.93 mm (0.0759 in.)

Subtract the total clearance measurement from the middle of the clearance
standard 0.14 mm (0.0056 in.)
1.93-0.14=1.79 mm (0.0704 in.)
Select the shim closest to the amount calculated, for example the 1.80 mm
(0.0709 in.) shim.
14. With oil guide plate M and the appropriate size shim installed in the
transmission housing, check the thrust clearance again to verify the clearance is
within the standard.
72 mm Shim
A 23931-P21- 0.60 mm
000 (0.024 in.)
B 23932-P21- 0.63 mm
000 (0.025 in.)
C 23933-P21- 0.66 mm
000 (0.026 in.)
D 23934-P21- 0.69 mm
000 (0.027 in.)
E 23935-P21- 0.72 mm
000 (0.028 in.)
F 23936-P21- 0.75 mm
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000 (0.030 in.)

G 23937-P21- 0.78 mm
000 (0.031 in.)
H 23938-P21- 0.81 mm
000 (0.032 in.)
I 23939-P21- 0.84 mm
000 (0.033 in.)
J 23940-P21- 0.87 mm
000 (0.034 in.)
K 23941-P21- 0.90 mm
000 (0.035 in.)
L 23942-P21- 0.93 mm
000 (0.037 in.)
M 23943-P21- 0.96 mm
000 (0.038 in.)
N 23944-P21- 0.99 mm
000 (0.039 in.)
O 23945-P21- 1.02 mm
000 (0.040 in.)
P 23946-P21- 1.05 mm
000 (0.041 in.)
Q 23947-P21- 1.08 mm
000 (0.043 in.)
R 23948-P21- 1.11 mm
000 (0.044 in.)
S 23949-P21- 1.14 mm
000 (0.045 in.)
T 23950-P21- 1.17 mm
000 (0.046 in.)
U 23951-P21- 1.20 mm
000 (0.047 in.)
V 23952-P21- 1.23 mm
000 (0.048 in.)
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W 23953-P21- 1.26 mm
000 (0.050 in.)
X 23954-P21- 1.29 mm
000 (0.051 in.)
Y 23955-P21- 1.32 mm
000 (0.052 in.)
Z 23956-P21- 1.35 mm
000 (0.053 in.)
AA 23957-P21- 1.38 mm
000 (0.054 in.)
AB 23958-P21- 1.41 mm
000 (0.056 in.)
AC 23959-P21- 1.44 mm
000 (0.057 in.)
AD 23960-P21- 1.47 mm
000 (0.058 in.)
AE 23961-P21- 1.50 mm
000 (0.059 in.)
AF 23962-P21- 1.53 mm
000 (0.060 in.)
AG 23963-P21- 1.56 mm
000 (0.061 in.)
AH 23964-P21- 1.59 mm
000 (0.063 in.)
Al 23965-P21- 1.62 mm
000 (0.064 in.)
AJ 23966-P21- 1.65 mm
000 (0.065 in.)
AK 23967-P21- 1.68 mm
000 (0.066 in.)
AL 23968-P21- 1.71 mm
000 (0.067 in.)
AM 23969-P21- 1.74 mm
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000 (0.069 in.)

AN 23970-P21- 1.77 mm
000 (0.070 in.)
AO 23971-P21- 1.80 mm
000 (0.071 in.)
TRANSMISSION REASSEMBLY
NOTE: Prior to reassembling, clean all parts in solvent, dry them,

and apply lubricant to any contact surfaces.
1. Install the magnet (A) and differential assembly (B).
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Fig. 154: Installing Magnet And Differential Assembly

2. Install the 28 mm spring washer (A) and the 28 mm washer (B) over the ball
bearing (C). Note the installation direction of the spring washer.
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Fig. 155: Installing Spring Washer And Washer Over Ball Bearing
3. Apply vinyl tape to the mainshaft splines (D) to protect the seal. Install the
mainshaft and the countershaft (E) with the shift forks (F), as an assembly.
4. Install the reverse shift fork.
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Fig. 156: Installing Reverse Shift Fork

5. Install the reverse idler gear (A) and reverse gear shaft (B) by aligning the
mark (C) with the reverse gear shaft hole (D).
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Fig. 157: Installing Reverse Idler Gear And Reverse Gear Shaft
6. Install the reverse lock cam.
Fig. 158: Installing Reverse Lock Cam

7. Select the proper size 72 mm shim (A) according to the measurements made
during the Mainshaft Thrust Clearance Adjustment (see MAINSHAFT
THRUST CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT ). Install the oil gutter plate (B),
oil guide plate M, and 72 mm shim into the transmission housing (C).
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Fig. 159: Installing Oil Gutter Plate, Oil Guide Plate, And Shim Into
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8. Remove any dirt or oil from the transmission housing sealing surface. Apply
liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the sealing surface. Make sure you seal the
entire circumference of the bolt holes to prevent oil leakage.

Fig. 160: View Of Liquid Gasket

9. Install the 14 x 20 mm dowel pins (A).
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Fig. 161: Installing Dowel Pins

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10. Set the tapered cone ring (B) as shown in Fig. 161. Place the transmission
housing on the clutch housing, being careful to line up the shafts.
11. While expanding the 72 mm snap ring (C) of the countershaft ball bearing
using the snap ring pliers, push the transmission housing down to start the
countershaft ball bearing through the snap ring. Then release the pliers, and
push down the housing until it bottoms and the snap ring snaps in place in the
countershaft ball bearing snap ring groove.
12. Make sure the 72 mm snap ring is securely seated in the groove of the
countershaft bearing. See Fig. 161.
Dimension 1 as installed: 3.3-6.0 mm (0.13-0.24 in.)
13. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0001) to the threads of the 32 mm sealing cap
(D), and install it on the transmission housing.
14. Install the transmission hangers A and B, harness bracket B (C), and the 8 mm
flange bolts, finger-tight.
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Fig. 162: Installing Transmission Hangers, Harness Bracket And Flange

Bolts
15. Tighten the 8 mm flange bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps.
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Fig. 163: Tightening Flange Bolts In Crisscross Pattern

16. Remove any dirt or oil from the shift lever cover sealing surface. Apply liquid
gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the sealing surface.

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Fig. 164: View Of Liquid Gasket

17. Install the 8 x 14 mm dowel pins (B), change lever assembly (C), and harness
bracket A.
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Fig. 165: Installing Dowel Pins, Change Lever Assembly And Harness
Bracket
18. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the threads of the interlock bolt (D),
and install it on the transmission housing.
19. Install the drain plug (A), filler plug (B), and 10 mm flange bolt (C) with new
washers.
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Fig. 166: Installing Drain Plug, Filler Plug And Flange Bolt
20. Install the new O-ring (D), plain washer (E), and output shaft (countershaft)
speed sensor (F).
21. Install the detent bolts (A), spring, and steel balls with new washers.
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Fig. 167: Installing Detent Bolts, Spring And Steel Balls

22. Install the new 20 mm washer (B), 20 mm bolt (C), and transmission hanger
(D).
23. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08718-0002) to the threads of the back-up light
switch (E), and install it in the transmission housing.
GEARSHIFT MECHANISM REPLACEMENT
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Fig. 168: Removing Gearshift Mechanism Components

M/T-DIFFERENTIAL
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Fig. 169: Removing Differential Components

BACKLASH INSPECTION
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1. Place the differential assembly on V-blocks (A), and install both axles.
Fig. 170: Placing Differential Assembly On V-Blocks And Installing Axles

2. Measure the backlash of both pinion gears (B) with a dial indicator (C). If the
backlash is not within the standard, replace the differential carrier.

DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR REPLACEMENT
1. Loosen the bolts (left-hand threads) in a crisscross pattern in several steps, then
remove the bolts and the final driven gear (A) from the differential carrier (B).
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Fig. 171: Removing Bolts And Final Driven Gear From Differential
Carrier
2. Install the final driven gear with the chamfer on the inside diameter facing the
carrier. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps.
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100

1. Check the carrier bearings for wear and rough rotation. If they rotate smoothly
and their rollers show no signs of wear, the bearings are OK.
2. Remove the carrier bearing (A) with a commercially available bearing puller
(B).
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Fig. 172: Removing Carrier Bearing

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3. Install the new bearings (A) with the special tool and a press. Press each
bearing on until it bottoms. There should be no clearance between the bearings
and the carrier.
NOTE: Place the seal part of the bearing (B) towards the
outside of the differential, then install it.
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Fig. 173: Installing Carrier Bearing

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Driver 07749-0010000
Oil seal driver attachment 07NAD-P20A100
1. Remove the differential assembly.
2. Remove the oil seal (A) from the transmission housing (B).
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Fig. 174: Removing Transmission Housing Oil Seal

3. Remove the oil seal (A) from the clutch housing (B).
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Fig. 175: Removing Clutch Housing Oil Seal

4. Install the new oil seal in the transmission housing with the special tools.
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Fig. 176: Installing Clutch Housing Oil Seal

5. Install the new oil seal in the clutch housing with the special tools.
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Fig. 177: Installing Transmission Housing Oil Seal

DIFFERENTIAL THRUST CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT

Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
1. If you removed the 80 mm shim from the clutch housing, reinstall the same
sized shim.
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Fig. 178: Installing Shim

2. Install the differential assembly into the clutch housing.
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Fig. 179: Installing Differential Assembly Into Clutch Housing

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3. Install the transmission housing onto the clutch housing, then tighten the 8 mm
flange bolts in a crisscross pattern in several steps (see step 15 ).
8 x 1.25 mm
27 N.m (2.8 kgf.m, 20 lbf.ft)
4. Use the special tool to bottom the differential assembly in the clutch housing.
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Fig. 180: Inserting Differential Assembly Into Clutch Housing Properly

5. Measure clearance between 80 mm shim and the bearing outer race in the
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Standard: 0-0.10 mm (0-0.0039 in.)
Fig. 181: Measuring Clearance Between Shim And Bearing Outer Race In
6. If the clearance is more than the standard, select a new shim from the following
table. If the clearance measured in step 5 is within the standard, go to step 9.
80 mm Shim

A 41441-PL3- 1.0 mm (0.039
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B00 in.)
B 41442-PL3- 1.1 mm (0.043
B00 in.)
C 41443-PL3- 1.2 mm (0.047
B00 in.)
D 41444-PL3- 1.3 mm (0.051
B00 in.)
E 41445-PL3- 1.4 mm (0.055
B00 in.)
F 41446-PL3- 1.5 mm (0.059
B00 in.)
G 41447-PL3- 1.6 mm (0.063
B00 in.)
H 41448-PL3- 1.7 mm (0.067
B00 in.)
J 41449-PL3- 1.8 mm (0.071
B00 in.)
K 41450-PL3- 1.05 mm
B00 (0.041 in.)
L 41451-PL3- 1.15 mm
B00 (0.045 in.)
M 41452-PL3- 1.25 mm
B00 (0.049 in.)
N 41453-PL3- 1.35 mm
B00 (0.053 in.)
P 41454-PL3- 1.45 mm
B00 (0.057 in.)
Q 41455-PL3- 1.55 mm
B00 (0.061 in.)
R 41456-PL3- 1.65 mm
B00 (0.065 in.)
S 41457-PL3- 1.75 mm
B00 (0.069 in.)
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7. Remove the bolts and transmission housing.

8. Replace the thrust shim selected in step 6, then recheck the clearance.
9. Reinstall the transmission.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Moonroof - Accord
Moonroof - Accord

2-DOOR
Fig. 1: Identifying Moonroof Component Location (2-Door)

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2007 Honda Accord
4-DOOR
Fig. 2: Identifying Moonroof Component Location (4-Door)

2-DOOR
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SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX (2-DOOR)

1. Check for a clogged drain tube.
2. Check for a gap between the glass
weatherstrip and the roof panel.
Water leaks from moonroof 3. Check for a defective or an
improperly installed glass
weatherstrip or drain channel.
4. Check for a gap between the drain
seal and the roof panel.
Check for excessive clearance between
Wind noise from moonroof
the glass weatherstrip and the roof panel.
1. Check for a loose motor.
Motor noise from moonroof 2. Check for a worn gear or bearing.
3. Check for a deformed cable
assembly.
1. Check for a defective gear or inner
cable.
2. Check for foreign matter stuck
Moonroof glass does not move, but between the guide rail and the
motor turns slider.
3. Check for a loose inner cable.
4. Make sure the cable assembly is
attached properly.
1. Check for a blown fuse.
Moonroof glass does not move and 2. Check for a faulty moonroof switch.
motor does not turn (glass can be 3. Check for a run down battery.
moved with moonroof wrench) 4. Check for a defective motor control
unit.
Moonroof glass does not stop at 1. Perform moonroof calibration.
proper flush closed position 2. Check glass height adjustment.
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Moonroof glass moves in a jerking

motion (moves 40 mm, stops for 0.4 Perform moonroof calibration.
seconds, and repeats)
During auto close operation,
Check for dirt and debris in the track.
moonroof glass reverses when no
Perform moonroof calibration.
object is trapped
Moonroof glass moves, but there is Reprogram moonroof motor (see
no Auto function MOONROOF CALIBRATION ).
4-DOOR
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX (4-DOOR)

1. Check for a clogged drain tube.
2. Check for a gap between the glass
weatherstrip and the roof panel.
Water leaks from moonroof 3. Check for a defective or an
improperly installed glass
weatherstrip or drain channel.
4. Check for a gap between the drain
seal and the roof panel.
Check for excessive clearance between
Wind noise from moonroof the glass weatherstrip and the roof
panel.
1. Check for a loose motor.
Motor noise from moonroof 2. Check for a worn gear or bearing.
3. Check for a deformed cable
assembly.
1. Check for a defective gear or inner

Moonroof glass does not move, but cable.
motor turns 2. Check for foreign matter stuck
between the guide rail and the
slider.
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3. Check for a loose inner cable.

4. Make sure the cable assembly is
attached properly.
1. Check for a blown fuse.
2. Check for a faulty moonroof
Moonroof glass does not move and switch.
motor does not turn (glass can be 3. Check the limit switch.
moved with moonroof wrench) 4. Check for a run down battery.
5. Check for a defective motor.
6. Check for a faulty relay.
GLASS HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
The roof panel (A) should be even with the glass weatherstrip (B), to within 0+1/-1
mm (0+0.04/-0.04 in.) all the way around. If not, make the following adjustment:
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Fig. 3: Adjusting Glass Height (2-Door)

Fig. 4: Adjusting Glass Height (4-Door)

1. 4-door: Remove the bracket cover from each side (see step 3 in Glass
Replacement ).
2. Using a T25 Torx bit, loosen the bolts on each side, and adjust the glass (A).
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Fig. 5: Loosening Bolts On Each Side And Adjust Glass (2-Door)

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Fig. 6: Loosening Bolts On Each Side And Adjust Glass (4-Door)

3. If necessary, repeat on the opposite side.

GLASS REPLACEMENT
1. Close the glass fully.

2. Slide the sunshade all the way back.
3. 2-door: Turn the slit portions of the molding (A) up. 4-door: Pry out the lid (B),
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remove the screws (C), and release the hooks (D), then remove both bracket
covers (E).
Fig. 7: Turning Slit Portions Of Molding Up (2-Door)

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Fig. 8: Prying Out Lid Removing Screws And Releasing Hooks (4-Door)
4. Using a T25 Torx bit, remove the bolts (F) from both glass brackets (G).
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5. Remove the glass (A) by lifting it up. Do not damage the roof panel.
Fig. 9: Removing Glass By Lifting Up

6. Install the glass in the reverse order of the removal, and note these items:
2-door: Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the glass mounting
bolts before reinstallation.
Adjust the glass height alignment.
7. Check for water leaks. Use free-flowing water from a hose without a nozzle.
Do not use high-pressure water.
NOTE: It is normal for some water to seep past the moonroof

into the moonroof frame, and exit out through the
drains.
WIND DEFLECTOR REPLACEMENT

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2-DOOR
1. Open the glass fully.

2. Remove the screws securing the wind deflector (A).
Fig. 10: Removing Wind Deflector Screws

3. Remove the deflector link bases (A) from each side. Twist the wind deflector
(B) forward and push it down, and pass the deflector spring (C) out through the
slot of the slide stop (D) on each side, then remove the wind deflector.
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Fig. 11: Removing Deflector Link Bases From Each Side

4. Install the deflector in the reverse order of removal, and apply multipurpose
grease to both slots where the deflector springs are installed.
4-DOOR
1. Open the glass fully.

2. Remove the links (A) from both sides.
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Fig. 12: Removing Links From Both Sides

3. Remove the wind deflector (A).
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Fig. 13: Removing Wind Deflector

4. Pry up on the deflector bases (A) and release the hooks (B), then remove the
bases with springs (C) from both sides.
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Fig. 14: Removing Bases With Springs From Both Sides

5. Install the deflector in the reverse order of removal.
DRAIN CHANNEL REPLACEMENT
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2-DOOR
1. Remove the glass (see GLASS REPLACEMENT ).

2. Move both glass brackets (A) to detach the pins (B) inside from both glass
brackets.
Fig. 15: Moving Both Glass Brackets To Detach Pins

3. Turn the drain channel (A) up while sliding it forward to release it from the
pins (B) on both drain channel sliders (C).
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Fig. 16: Turning Drain Channel Up Sliding Forward To Release From

Pins
4. Stand the drain channel (A) upright, and pull up the channel to remove it from
both drain channel sliders (B).
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Fig. 17: Pulling Up Channel To Remove From Drain Channel Sliders

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5. Install the channel in the reverse order of removal, and check the glass height
adjustment (see GLASS HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT ).
6. Check for water leaks. Let the water run freely from a hose without a nozzle.
Do not use a high-pressure spray.
4-DOOR
1. Remove the glass (see GLASS REPLACEMENT ).

2. With the moonroof wrench, move both glass brackets (A) to the position where
the moonroof normally tilts up and disconnect the drain channel rods (B) on
both sides.
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Fig. 18: Disconnecting Drain Channel Rods On Both Sides

3. Slide the drain channel (A) forward.
Fig. 19: Sliding Drain Channel Forward

4. Pull the rear edge of the drain channel (A) up while pushing both clips (B), and
release the channel from both hooks (C) of the drain channel slider by pulling
it rearward.
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Fig. 20: Pulling Rear Edge Of Drain Channel Up Pushing Both Clips
5. Remove the drain channel.

6. Install the channel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
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Push the clip portions into place securely.

Check the glass height adjustment (see GLASS HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT ).
SUNSHADE REPLACEMENT
2-DOOR
1. Remove the drain channel (see 2-door ).

2. Remove the screws, then remove the set plate (A) from each side.
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Fig. 21: Removing Set Plate From Each Side

3. Slide the sunshade (A) until you can see both front sunshade base sliders (B).
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Fig. 22: Sliding Sunshade

4. While lifting the front portion of the sunshade (A), move the sunshade forward
until you can see both rear sunshade base sliders (B). Do not damage the
sunshade.
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Fig. 23: Lifting Front Portion Of Sunshade

5. Release both rear sunshade base sliders from the guide rail portions of the
frame, then remove the sunshade.
6. Install the sunshade in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the set plate mounting screws
before reinstallation.
Check the glass height adjustment (see GLASS HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT ).
4-DOOR
1. Remove the drain channel (see 4-DOOR ).

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2. Slide the sunshade (A) until you can see both sunshade slider spacers (B).
Fig. 24: Sliding Sunshade

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3. Remove the screws, then remove both spacers.

4. While lifting the front portion of the sunshade (A), move the sunshade forward
until you can see both sunshade rear hooks (B). Do not damage the sunshade
and hooks.
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Fig. 25: Lifting Front Portion Of Sunshade

5. Remove the screws, then remove both hooks.
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6. Remove the sunshade (A).
Fig. 26: Removing Sunshade

7. Remove both front sunshade base sliders (A) and both rear sunshade base
sliders (B).
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Fig. 27: Removing Front & Rear Sunshade Base Sliders

8. Install the sunshade in the reverse order of removal, and check the glass height
adjustment (see GLASS HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT ).
MOTOR REPLACEMENT
2-DOOR

2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Disconnect the connector (A), and using a
T25 Torx bit, remove the bolts, then remove the motor (B). Do not operate the
motor before reinstallation.
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Fig. 28: Disconnecting Connector Using T25 Torx Bit

3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the motor mounting bolts
Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
Do the moonroof motor reprogram procedure (see MOONROOF
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CALIBRATION ).
Check the motor operation.
4-DOOR

2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Disconnect the connector (A), and remove
the bolts, then remove the motor (B).
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Fig. 29: Disconnecting Connector

3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
Check the motor operation.
FRAME AND DRAIN TUBE REPLACEMENT

Headliner (see HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION )
Moonroof glass (see GLASS REPLACEMENT )
2. 2-door: Remove the moonroof frame (A). Put on gloves to protect your hands.
-Disconnect the motor connector (B), and the drain tubes (C).
-Remove the interior harness (D) by detaching the harness clips (E) and
removing the cushion tape (F).
-With an assistant holding the frame, remove the bolts (G, H) starting at
the rear, and release the rear hooks (I) by moving the frame forward, then
remove the frame.
-With the help of an assistant, carefully remove the frame through the door
opening. Take care not to damage the interior trim, body, or seat covers.
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Fig. 30: Removing Moonroof Frame (2-Door)

3. 4-door: Remove the moonroof frame (A). Put on gloves to protect your hands.
-Disconnect the motor connector (B), open/close-tilt/close switch
connector (C), and the drain tubes (D), and remove the moonroof relays
(E).
-Remove the interior harness (F) by detaching the harness clips (G) and
removing the tapes (H).
-With an assistant holding the frame, remove the bolts starting at the rear,
and release the rear hooks (I) by moving the frame forward, then remove
the frame.
-With the help of an assistant, carefully remove the frame through the
front door opening. Take care not to damage the interior trim, body, or
seat covers.
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Fig. 31: Removing Moonroof Frame (4-Door)

4. To remove a front drain valve (A) from the body, remove the kick panel, left or
right, 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA ), 4-door (see 4-DOOR -
FRONT DOOR SILL AREA ). Tie a string to the top end of the drain tube,
then pull the front drain tube (B) down out of the front pillar.
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Fig. 32: Removing Front Drain Valve From Body

5. To remove a rear drain valve (A) from the body, remove these parts, 2-door
(see 2-DOOR ), 4-door (see '03-05 MODELS 4-DOOR ):
Spare tire lid
Trunk rear trim panel
Jack lid
Tie a string to the top end of the rear drain tube (B), then pull back the
trunk side trim panel and pull the drain tube down out of the pillar.
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Fig. 33: Removing Rear Drain Valve From Body

6. Install the frame and drain tube in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Before installing the frame, clear the drain tubes and drain valves using
compressed air.
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Check the frame seal.

Clean the surface of the frame.
To install a drain tube, tie the top of the tube to the string that was pulled
through when the tube was removed. Use the string to pull the tube up into
the roof.
When installing the frame, first attach the rear hooks into the body holes.
Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly.
When installing the rear drain tube at the rear pillar, make sure the cushion
on the tube aligns with the hole in the body, and that the alignment mark
on the tube aligns with the upper clip.
When connecting the drain tube, slide it over the frame nozzle at least 10
mm (0.39 in.).
Install the tube clip (A) on the drain tube (B) as shown in Fig. 34.
Fig. 34: Installing Frame And Drain Tube

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INNER CABLE REPLACEMENT
2-DOOR
1. Remove the frame (see FRAME AND DRAIN TUBE REPLACEMENT ).

Wind deflector (see WIND DEFLECTOR REPLACEMENT )
Moonroof motor (see MOTOR REPLACEMENT )
3. Tilt the glass bracket (A) up by sliding the link lifter (B) forward fully.
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Fig. 35: Tilting Glass Bracket Up Sliding Link Lifter Forward

4. Remove the screws (A, B), then remove the slide stop (C) and the plate (D).
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Fig. 36: Removing Slide Stop & Plate

5. Slide the glass bracket (A) forward to remove the front slider portion (B) of the
bracket out of the guide rail (C).
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Fig. 37: Sliding Glass Bracket Forward To Remove Front Slider Portion
6. Remove the glass bracket (A) from the link lifter (B).
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Fig. 38: Removing Glass Bracket From Link Lifter

7. Pull the slider portion (A) of the inner cable (B) out of the slide rail (C), then
remove the inner cable.
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Fig. 39: Pulling Slider Portion Of Inner Cable Out Of Slide Rail
8. If necessary, remove the drain channel slider (A) by sliding it forward.
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Fig. 40: Removing Drain Channel Slider

9. Install the slider and cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Damaged parts should be replaced.
Apply multipurpose grease to the glass bracket (A) and guide rail portion
of the frame (B) indicated by the arrows shown in Fig. 41.
Apply butyl sealant (C) to the frame (D) where the slide stops (E) will be
reinstalled with screws (F).
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the set plate (G) mounting
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screws (H) before reinstallation.

Before reinstalling the motor, slide both glass brackets rearward fully until
the slider portions (I) of the inner cable contact with the screws (J) on the
guide rail to align both glass brackets.
Before reinstalling the motor, install the frame and glass, then check the
opening drag (see CLOSING FORCE AND OPENING DRAG
CHECK ).
After reinstalling the motor, do the moonroof motor reprogram procedure
(see MOONROOF CALIBRATION ).
Grease application
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Fig. 41: Installing Slider And Cable

Butyl sealant application
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Fig. 42: Identifying Butyl Sealant Application Surface And Fastener

Location
Glass bracket alignment
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Fig. 43: Identifying Glass Bracket Alignment

DRAIN CHANNEL SLIDER AND CABLE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR
1. Remove the frame (see FRAME AND DRAIN TUBE REPLACEMENT ).

2. Remove these parts from the frame:
Sunshade (see 4-DOOR )
Moonroof motor (see MOTOR REPLACEMENT )
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Remove the screws (A, B) securing the
slide stops (C), and cable tube rear brackets (D), cable tube side bracket
mounting bolts (E) and the cable tube mounting screws (F) from both sides of
the frame (G).
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Fig. 44: Removing Screws Securing Slide Stops

4. Turn both cable tube side brackets (A) up to release the hooks (B) from the
holes in both sides of the frame.
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Fig. 45: Turning Both Cable Tube Side Brackets To Release Hooks From
Holes
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5. Pivot the glass brackets (C) down by sliding the lift up sliders (D) back, then
slide both glass brackets back with the lift up sliders.
6. Slide the cable assembly (E) half-way.
7. Remove the slide stops (A) and the drain channel sliders (B) from both sides.
Fig. 46: Removing Slide Stops And Draining Channel Sliders

8. Slide the cable assembly (A) and both glass brackets (B) back, remove the
deflector sliders (C) from both glass brackets, then remove them from the
frame (D).
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Fig. 47: Sliding Cable Assembly And Glass Brackets Back

9. Install the slider and cable assembly in the reverse order of removal, and note
these items:
Damaged parts should be replaced.
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Apply multipurpose grease to the glass bracket (A) and guide rail portion
of the frame (B) indicated by the arrows shown in Fig. 48.
Before reinstalling the motor, make sure both link lifters are parallel, and
in the fully closed position.
Before reinstalling the motor, install the frame and glass, then check the
opening drag (see CLOSING FORCE AND OPENING DRAG
CHECK ).
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Fig. 48: Installing Slider And Cable

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LIMIT SWITCH ADJUSTMENT

4-DOOR

2. With the moonroof wrench, close the glass (A) fully:
Make sure both link lifters (B) are parallel, and in the position shown in
Fig. 49.
Check the glass fit to the roof panel and the glass height (see GLASS
HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT ).
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Fig. 49: Closing Glass With Moonroof Wrench

3. With an open-end wrench, loosen the limit switch mounting bolts (C).
4. Adjust the limit switch (D):
Move the switch plate (E) a little at a time, then secure it at the position
where you hear a faint click when the switch cam (F) pushes the limit
switch (open/close).
Check that the switch plate contacts the switch bracket (G).
5. Check the operation of the glass (from the tilt-up position to fully closed
position, from the fully open position to the fully closed position) by operating
the moonroof switch: Adjust the switch plate until the glass opens and closes
correctly.
6. Reinstall all remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
CLOSING FORCE AND OPENING DRAG CHECK

2. Closing force check:
With a shop towel (A) on the leading edge of the glass (B), attach a spring
scale (C) as shown in Fig. 50.
Have an assistant hold the switch to close the glass while you measure the
force required to stop it.
Read the force as soon as the glass stops moving, then immediately release
the switch and spring scale.
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Fig. 50: Closing Force Check

3. If the force in not within specification, remove the moonroof motor, 2-door
(see MOTOR REPLACEMENT ), 4-door (see MOTOR
REPLACEMENT ), then check:
The gear portion and the inner cable for breakage and damage. If the gear
portion is broken, replace the motor. If the inner cable is damaged, remove
the frame (see FRAME AND DRAIN TUBE REPLACEMENT ), and
replace the cable, 2-door (see INNER CABLE REPLACEMENT ), 4-
door (see DRAIN CHANNEL SLIDER AND CABLE ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT ).
The moonroof motor, 2-door (see MOONROOF CONTROL UNIT
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INPUT TEST ), 4-door (see MOTOR TEST ). If the motor fails to run or
doesn't turn smoothly, replace it.
The opening drag. Go to step 4.
4. Opening drag check: Protect the leading edge of the glass with a shop towel
(A). Measure the effort required to open the glass using a spring scale (B) as
shown in Fig. 51.
Fig. 51: Protecting Leading Edge Of Glass With Shop Towel

5. If the load is over 40 N (4 kgf, 9 lbf), check:

The side clearance and glass height adjustment (see GLASS HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT ).
For broken or damaged sliding parts. If any sliding parts are damaged,
replace them.
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6. 2-door: Do the moonroof motor reprogram procedure (see 2-DOOR ) after

reinstalling the moonroof motor.
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2006-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Navigation System - Accord
Navigation System - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Navigation System Components

GENERAL OPERATION
Refer to the Navigation System Manual for the navigation system operating
procedures.
ANTI-THEFT FEATURE
The navigation system and audio unit have a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure
to get the customer's anti-theft security codes number before;
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disconnecting the battery.

disconnecting the navigation unit 8P connector.
removing the No. 7 (10 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
After service, reconnect power to the navigation unit, and turn the ignition switch
ON (II). Enter the 4-digit anti-theft security code, then select "Done".
If the code cannot be found, use the interactive Network (IN) to look it up. You will
need the serial number from the navigation unit in the trunk. It is on a label on the
underside of the unit. Alternatively, you can view the serial number in the Navi
ECU diagnostic screen (see UNIT CHECK ).
When replacing the navigation unit, be sure to give the customer the new anti-theft
security code.
SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS
Certain circumstances and system limitations will result in occasional vehicle

positioning errors. Some customers may think this indicates a problem with the
navigation system when, in fact, the system is normal. Keep the following items in
mind when interviewing customers about symptoms of the navigation system.
SELF-INERTIAL NAVIGATION LIMITATIONS
The limitations of the self-inertial portion of the navigation system (the yaw rate
sensor and the vehicle speed signal) can cause some discrepancies between the
vehicle's actual position and the indicated vehicle position (GPS vehicle position).
The following circumstances may cause vehicle positioning errors:
Moving the vehicle with the engine stopped and the vehicle stopped, such as
by ferry or tow truck, or if the vehicle is spun on a turn table.
Tire slippage, changes in tire rolling diameters, and some driving situations
may cause discrepancies in travel distances. Examples of this include:
- Continuous tire slippage on a slippery surface
- Driving with snow chains mounted
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- Abnormal tire pressure

- Incorrect tire size
- Frequent lane changes across a wide highway
- Continuous driving on a straight or gently curving highway
- Very bumpy roads
Tolerances in the system and map inaccuracies sometimes limit how precisely
the vehicle position is indicated. Examples of this include:
- Driving on roads not shown on the map (map matching is not possible)
- Driving on a road that winds in one direction, such as a loop bridge, an
interchange, or a spiral parking garage
- Driving on a road with a series of sharp hair-pin turns
- Driving near a gradual highway exit or transition
- Driving on one of two close parallel roads
- Making many 90 degree turns
GLOBAL POSITIONING SYSTEM (GPS) LIMITATIONS
The GPS cannot detect the vehicle's position during the following instances:
For the first 5 to 10 minutes after reconnecting the battery (This can take as
long as 45 minutes).
When the satellite signals are blocked by tall buildings, mountains, tunnels,
large trees, inside parking structures or large trucks.
When the GPS antenna is blocked by metallic window tinting or by an object
placed above it in the vehicle. The GPS antenna requires a clear unobstructed
view of the sky.
When there is no satellite signal output (Signal output is sometimes stopped for
satellite servicing).
When the satellite signals are blocked by the operation of some electronic
aftermarket accessories including, but not limited to non-OEM in-dash
entertainment units (radio, CD players/changers, radar detectors and theft
recovery systems), and cellphones placed near the navigation system.
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The accuracy of GPS is reduced during these instances:

Metallic window tinting above the GPS antenna.
When only two satellite signals can be received (Three satellite signals are
required for accurate positioning).
When the satellite control centers are experiencing problems.
When driving near high tension power lines.
When the satellite signals are blocked by the operation of some electronic
aftermarket accessories including, but not limited to non-OEM in-dash
entertainment units (radio, CD players/changers, radar detectors and theft
recovery systems), and cellphones placed near the navigation system.
MUTING LOGIC
Whenever the navigation system is giving guidance all the front speakers are muted.
When the voice control system is being used, all of the speakers are muted.
LCD DISPLAY UNIT LIMITATIONS
In cold temperatures, the display may stay dark for the first 2 or 3 minutes until
it warms up.
When the display is too hot because of direct summer sunlight, it will remain
dark until the temperature drops (You may see an error message displayed
stating this fact).
When the humidity is high and the interior temperature is low, the display may
appear cloudy. The display will clear up after some use.
Fingerprints on the touch panel may sometimes be noticeable because of the
panel's low-reflection coating. Clean the screen with a soft, damp cloth. You
may use a mild cleaner intended for eye glasses or computer screens. To avoid
scratching the panel, do not rub too hard, or use abrasive cleaners or shop
towels.
The touch panel consists of a touch sensitive resistive memberance covering
the display. Unlike previous systems, you must actually "touch" the display to
activate it. Never use hard or sharp implements to operate the screen because
you risk damaging the sensing membrane. If a touch "switch" does not function
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immediately, shift your finger slightly, and touch it again.
NOTE: The display is unaffected by sunlight, as in previous

displays.
SYMPTOM DUPLICATION
When the symptom can be duplicated, verify that it is not a characteristic of the
system. Review the navigation manual and compare it to a known-good vehicle
(with the same software and database), under the same conditions. If not the
same, follow the self-diagnostic procedures and the appropriate
troubleshooting procedures.
When the symptom does not reappear or only reappears intermittently, ask the
customer about the conditions when the symptom occurred.
- Ask the customer to demonstrate the problem.
- Try to establish possible user error or misunderstanding of the system.
- Try to establish if outside interference may have been the cause.
- Try to duplication the symptom under the same conditions the customer
was experiencing.
- Vibration, temperature extremes, and moisture (dew, humidity) are
factors that are difficult to duplicate.
- Inspect the vehicle for after-market electronic devices (vehicle locators,
amps, radar detectors, etc) that may be hidden.
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
If the navigation unit needs to be replaced, inform the customer that personal
information in the navigation system will be lost. If possible, have the
customer record their personal information before the unit is replaced.
Before disconnecting the battery, make sure you have the anti-theft codes for
the radio and the navigation system, and write down the XM radio channel
presets. Also obtain any PGM-FI or transmission DTCs and freeze frame date
(which will be lost when the PCM loses power).
When the battery is disconnected, the internal GPS clock is reset to "0:00". The
clock will reset to the correct time after the system finishes GPS initialization.
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After reconnecting the battery, you have to wait to get the initial signal from
the satellite. It will take from 10 to 45 minutes.
Verify map matching
Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the radio and navigation
anti-theft security code, then enter the customer's XM radio channel presets,
adjust the setup clock settings in the navigation system.
SYSTEM INITIALIZATION
If for any reason, you lose power to the navigation system (like the battery was
disconnected). The navigation system will require initialization. Once completed,
the system will be ready to use.
This initialization requires the following:
Entry of the 4-digit anti-theft security code to "unlock" the system

GPS initialization (may not be needed depending of the length of time the
system was without power)
Map matching to align the GPS to a location on the map
ENTERING SECURITY CODE
The navigation system and audio unit have a coded theft protection circuit. Be sure
to get the customer's anti-theft security codes number before;
disconnecting the battery

disconnecting the navigation unit 8P connector
removing the No. 7 (10 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box
After service, reconnect power to the navigation unit, and turn the ignition switch
ON (II). Enter the 4-digit anti-theft security code, then select "Done".
When replacing the navigation unit or audio unit, be sure to give the customer the
new anti-theft security code.
GPS INITIALIZATION
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Depending on the length of time the battery was disconnected, your system may
require GPS initialization. If it does, the following screen appears:
Fig. 3: Identifying GPS Initialization (1 Of 2)

If this procedure is not necessary the system proceeds directly to the Disclaimer
screen. During initialization, the system searches for all available GPS satellites,
and obtains their orbital information. During this procedure the vehicle should be
out in the open with a clear view of the sky.
If the navigation system finds the satellites properly, this box clears, and changes to
the Disclaimer screen. If within 10 minutes the system fails to locate a sufficient
number of satellites to locate your position, the following screen appears.
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Fig. 4: Identifying GPS Initialization (2 Of 2)

If this is displayed, turn off the engine, then restart the vehicle. If you now see the
Disclaimer screen, the GPS initialization is complete.
NOTE: The average acquiring time is less than 10 minutes, but

it can take as long as 45 minutes.
If the system is still unable to acquire a signal, follow
the instructions on the screen. If this screen appears
again, go to troubleshooting for the No GPS icon is
shown (see GPS icon is white, or not shown ).
MAP MATCHING
This part of the initialization matches the GPS coordinates with a road on the map
screen. To perform this part of the procedure, ensure that the navigation system is
displaying a map. Check the "GPS" icon in the upper left corner of the screen, it
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should be "Green" when the vehicle is parked outside, with the correct color labeled
DVD installed in the navigation unit. Drive the vehicle on a mapped road shown on
the map screen. Do not enter a destination at this time. When the name of the
current road you are driving on, appears at the bottom of the screen, the entire
procedure is complete. Your system is now ready to use.
OBTAINING A NAVIGATION DVD
If the Navigation DVD is lost or damaged, or you need a yearly updated DVD, you
have 2 ways to purchase one. You can either call (888) 291-4675, or order on-line
at www.honda.com.
Both methods require a credit card. The DVD for this model has a white label, and
cannot be ordered through the parts system. The following DVDs will not work in
this navigation system:
Navigation DVDs with labels other than white

Map software programs manufactured by other companies
DVD movies, or DVDs containing audio recordings
Update DVDs are available for purchase usually in the fall of each year. They may
contain the following:
Enhanced maps and points of interest (POI) coverage
Fixes for minor software bugs
Additional features
NOTE: Updating is optional, and there is no program to provide

free DVDs containing yearly mapping updates.
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

Navigation unit
Navigation system System Initialization (see Wrong colored disc
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stays on the GPS SYSTEM installed

initialization screen INITIALIZATION ) GPS antenna/cable
Harness/fuses/switches
Navigation unit
Troubleshooting (see Aftermarket accessories
No picture is
SYMPTOM connected to the system
displayed
TROUBLESHOOTING ) Display unit
Address cannot be
Verify proper operation
found or system Wrong colored disc installed
using the owner's manual
gives poor routing
Troubleshooting (see Navigation unit
Vehicle position
VEHICLE POSITION
icon constantly GPS antenna/cable
ICON CONSTANTLY
leaves road or is PCM (speed pulse
LEAVES ROAD OR IS
very far from actual missing)
VERY FAR FROM
position Harness/fuses/switches
ACTUAL POSITION )
Navigation unit
Wrong colored disc
Troubleshooting (see
Picture is missing a installed
PICTURE IS MISSING A
color or tone Harness/fuses/switches
COLOR OR TONE )
Aftermarket accessories
connected to the system
Troubleshooting (see Navigation unit
Picture has
PICTURE HAS
lines/rolls/other Display unit
LINES/ROLLS/OTHER
issues Harness/fuses/switches
ISSUES )
Display unit buttons DISPLAY UNIT Display unit
or touch screen BUTTONS OR TOUCH Wrong colored disc
buttons do not work SCREEN BUTTONS DO installed
or respond properly NOT WORK OR Harness/fuses/switches
RESPOND PROPERLY )
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Navigation unit
Troubleshooting (see GPS Aftermarket accessories
GPS icon is white,
icon is white, or not connected to the system
or not shown
shown ) GPS antenna/cable
Navigation unit
Audio unit/amplifier
Troubleshooting (see Volume or Voice
Voice guidance
VOICE GUIDANCE feedback settings (see
cannot be heard
CANNOT BE HEARD ) Owner's manual for
details)
Navigation unit
Volume or Voice
feedback settings (see
Voice control does Owner's manual for
VOICE CONTROL DOES
not work/respond details)
NOT WORK/RESPOND )
Microphone/steering
buttons
Navigation unit
Wrong colored disc
DVD screen error Troubleshooting (see DVD
installed
messages screen error messages )
Display unit
Damaged DVD disc
PCM (speed and fuel
Troubleshooting (see TRIP pulses)
Trip computer-no Wrong colored disc
COMPUTER-NO
distance installed
DISTANCE )
Wrong unit (model
code)
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Gauge assembly (CAN)
Wrong colored disc
Troubleshooting (see TRIP
Trip computer-no installed
COMPUTER-NO FUEL
fuel information Wrong unit (model
INFORMATION )
code)
Display unit
Wrong colored disc
Navigation cannot installed
NAVIGATION CANNOT
control A/C Wrong unit (model
CONTROL A/C )
code)
Display unit
Display brightness set to
Display day/night DISPLAY DAY/NIGHT
"High"
mode does not work MODE DOES NOT
WORK ) Gauge assembly (CAN)
Navigation unit
Troubleshooting (see Harness/fuses/switches
System locks up
SYSTEM LOCKS UP Wrong colored disc
constantly
CONSTANTLY ) installed
Damaged DVD disc
Vehicle icon VEHICLE ICON
wanders across the WANDERS ACROSS Navigation unit
map when driving THE MAP WHEN Wrong colored disc
(does not follow a DRIVING (DOES NOT installed
displayed road) or FOLLOW A DISPLAYED Damaged DVD disc
spins when driving ROAD) OR SPINS WHEN
DRIVING )
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Navigation drives
NAVIGATION DRIVES
by itself when
BY ITSELF WHEN
parked
PARKED )
Navigation stays on Harness/fuses/switches
NAVIGATION STAYS
with ignition switch Aftermarket accessories
ON WITH IGNITION
off connected to the system
SWITCH OFF )
Display unit
Navigation cannot Wrong colored disc
NAVIGATION CANNOT
control audio/CD installed
CONTROL AUDIO/CD )
Audio unit/amplifier
Display unit
Navigation cannot Wrong colored disc
NAVIGATION CANNOT
control XM radio installed
CONTROL XM RADIO )
Harness
Audio-HVAC AUDIO-HVAC Navigation unit
subdisplay does not SUBDISPLAY DOES Subdisplay unit
work properly NOT WORK Harness/fuses/switches
PROPERLY )
Reset Time Adjustment in
Time is not correct
set-up
Navigation Navigation unit
NAVIGATION
frequently asks for
FREQUENTLY ASKS Low battery
code and needs
FOR CODE AND NEEDS Harness/fuses/switches
GPS initialization
GPS INITIALIZATION )
Some set-up and Customer did not select

information "OK" from Disclaimer
functions of the screen. Refer to System
navigation system Function Diagram (see
are "grayed out" SYSTEM FUNCTION
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and do not work DIAGRAM )

The vehicle may be new, or
Previous the customer deleted the
Destinations button destination. Enter a
is dim and not destination, and allow the
Owner's manual for details
selectable in the system to route to it. After
Enter destination by the trip, the Previous
screen Destinations button will be
selectable.
The customer has not
Today's
entered a group of locations
Destinations button
for Today's Destinations.
is dim and not
This is normal. The button is Owner's manual for details
selectable in the
only selectable if the
Enter destination by
customer is using this
screen
function.
Refer to troubleshooting for
Vehicle icon wanders across
the map when driving (see
VEHICLE ICON
The navigation
WANDERS ACROSS
system will not
THE MAP WHEN
Map Match
DRIVING (DOES NOT
FOLLOW A DISPLAYED
ROAD) OR SPINS WHEN
DRIVING )
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
OVERVIEW
The navigation system is a highly-sophisticated, hybrid locating system that uses

satellites and a map database to show you where you are and to help guide you to a
desired destination.
The navigation system receives signals from the global positioning system (GPS), a
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network of 24 satellites in orbit around the earth. By receiving signals from several
of these satellites, the navigation system can determine the latitude, longitude
elevation of the vehicle. In addition, signals from the system's yaw rate sensor and
the ECM/PCM (vehicle speed pulse) enable the system to keep track of the
vehicle's direction and speed of travel.
This hybrid system has advantages over a system that is either entirely self-
contained or one that relies totally on the GPS. For example, the self-contained
portion of the system can keep track of vehicle position even when satellite signals
cannot be received. When the navigation system is on, the GPS can keep track of
the vehicle position even when the vehicle is transported by ferry.
The navigation system applies all location, direction, and speed information to maps
and calculates a route to the destination entered. As you drive to that destination,
the system provides both visual and audio guidance.
This navigation system also has voice recognition that allows voice control of most
of the navigation functions. The Talk and BACK buttons on the steering wheel
activate the voice control. The voice control also allows control of the audio and
climate control.
The navigation system provides a trip computer function. The fuel economy display
is calculated by data provided by the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM provides fuel use
and level data via the F-CAN bus, and a dedicated speed signal.
The illumination signal is used by the navigation unit to automatically switch the
display between Night and Day brightness modes when Display is set to Auto.
When the instrument panel brightness control is set to full brightness, the navigation
system stays in the Day mode, even with the headlights on. Display unit button
illumination is supplied through the audio unit.
The GA-NET bus provides communication between the navigation unit and the
display unit. This bus also links the components in the audio-HVAC display
module. The bus is used to pass button and touch-screen commands to the
navigation unit. In addition, muting and voice control commands are sent to the
display unit and the audio and climate control systems for processing. The audio
unit uses the bus to control the XM-receiver or other accessories.
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SYSTEM DIAGRAM
Fig. 5: Identifying Navigation System Diagram

NAVIGATION FUNCTION
The navigation system is composed of the navigation unit, the ECM/PCM (vehicle
speed signal), the GPS antenna, microphone, voice control switch, audio unit,
climate control unit, and the display unit.
Function Diagram
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Fig. 6: Identifying Navigation System Function Diagram

Vehicle Speed Pulse
The vehicle speed pulse is sent by the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM receives a signal
from the countershaft speed sensor, then it processes the signal and transmits it to
the speedometer and other systems.
Fig. 7: Identifying Navigation System Vehicle Speed Pulse

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Charge Signal
The PCM sends a charge signal to the navigation unit via F-CAN. A thermister
inside the navigation unit monitors the units internal temperature. This information
combined with charge signal determines the control units internal cooling fan
operation.
Fuel Use Level Data
The navigation unit monitors the ECM/PCM fuel usage and tank level data via the
F-CAN bus. The navigation system combines this information, the vehicle speed
signal, GPS, and the map data for trip computer calculations.
Fig. 8: Identifying Navigation System Fuel Use Level Data

Yaw Rate Sensor
The yaw rate sensor (located in the navigation unit) detects the direction change
(angular speed) of the vehicle. The sensor is an oscillation gyro built into the
navigation unit.
Sensor Element Structure
The sensor element is shaped like a tuning fork, and it consists of the piezoelectric
parts, the metal block, and the support pin. There are four piezoelectric parts: one to
drive the oscillators, one to monitor and maintain the oscillation at a regular
frequency, and two to detect angular velocity. The two oscillators, which have a 90-
degree twist in the center, are connected at the bottom by the metal block and
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supported by the support pin. A detection piezoelectric part is attached to the top of
each oscillator. The driving piezoelectric part is attached to the bottom of one
oscillator, and the monitoring piezoelectric part is attached to the bottom of the
other oscillator.
Oscillation Gyro Principles
The piezoelectric parts have "electric/mechanical transfer characteristics." They

bend vertically when voltage is applied to both sides of the parts, and voltage is
generated between both sides of the piezoelectoric parts when they are bent by an
external force. The oscillation gyro functions by utilizing this characteristic of the
piezoelectric parts and "Coriolis force." (Coriolis force deflects moving objects as a
result of the earth's rotation.) In the oscillation gyro, this force moves the sensor
element when angular velocity is applied.
Operation
1. The driving piezoelectric part oscillates the oscillator by repeatedly bending

and returning when an AC voltage of 6 kHz is applied to the part. The
monitoring-side oscillator resonates because it is connected to the driving-side
oscillator by the metal block.
2. The monitoring piezoelectric part bends in proportion to the oscillation and
outputs voltage (the monitor signal). The navigation unit control circuit
controls the drive signal to stabilize the monitor signal.
3. When the vehicle is stopped, the detecting piezoelectric parts oscillate right
and left with the oscillators, but no signal is output because the parts are not
bent (no angular force).
4. When the vehicle turns to the right, the sensor element moves in a circular
motion with the right oscillator bending forward and the left oscillator bending
rearward. The amount of forward/rearward bend varies according to the
angular velocity of the vehicle.
5. The detecting piezoelectric parts output voltage (the yaw rate signal) according
to the amount of bend. The amount of vehicle direction change is determined
by measuring this voltage.
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Fig. 9: Operation Of Sensor Element

Global Positioning System (GPS)
The global positioning system (GPS) enables the navigation system to determine
the current position of the vehicle by utilizing the signals transmitted from the
satellites in orbit around the earth. The satellites transmit the satellite identification
signal, orbit information, transmission time signal, and other information. When the
GPS receiver receives a signal from three or more satellites simultaneously, it
calculates the current position of the vehicle based on the distance to each satellite
and the satellite is position in its respective orbit.
Position detection Image with GPS satellite
Fig. 10: Identifying Position Detection Image With GPS Satellite

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NOTE: Four satellites on each of 6 orbits.

Precision of GPS
The precision of the GPS varies according to the number of satellites from which
signals are received and the view of the sky. The precision is indicated by the color
of the GPS icon shown on the display.
GPS ICON REFERENCE

ICON NUMBER
GPS OF CONDITION DESCRIPTION
SATELLITES
GPS function is normal. The
No GPS Impossible to
satellite signals received by
icon 2 or less detect vehicle
the GPS are too few to detect
shown position
the vehicle position.
Square
The longitude and latitude of
GPS icon Vehicle position
the vehicle position can be
shown 3 detectable in 2
detected. (Less precise than
with white dimensions
detection in three dimensions)
"GPS"
Cube GPS The longitude, latitude and
icon Vehicle position the altitude of the vehicle
shown 4 or more detectable in 3 position can be detected.
with green dimensions (More precise than detection
"GPS" in two dimensions)
GPS Antenna
The GPS antenna amplifies and transmits the signals received from the satellites to
the GPS receiver.
GPS Receiver
The GPS receiver is built in the navigation unit. It calculates the vehicle position by
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receiving the signal from the GPS antenna. The vehicle position and signal
reception condition is transmitted from the GPS receiver to the navigation control
unit to adjust vehicle position.
Navigation Unit
The navigation unit calculates the vehicle position and guides you to the
destination. The unit performs map matching correction, GPS correction, and
distance tuning. It also controls the menu functions and the DVD-ROM drive, and
interprets voice commands. With control of all these items, the navigation unit
makes the navigation picture signal, then it transmits the signal to the display unit
and audio driving instructions to the audio unit.
Calculation of Vehicle Position
The navigation unit calculates the vehicle position (the driving direction and the
current position) by receiving the directional change signals from the yaw rate
sensor and the travel distance signals from the PCMs vehicle speed pulse (VSP)
signal.
Map Matching Tuning
The map matching tuning is accomplished by indicating the vehicle position on the
roads on the map. The map data transmitted from the DVD-ROM is checked
against the vehicle position data, and the vehicle position is indicated on the nearest
road. Map matching tuning does not occur when the vehicle travels on a road not
shown on the map, or when the vehicle position is far away from a road on the map.
GPS Tuning
The GPS tuning is accomplished by indicating the vehicle position as the GPS's
vehicle position. The navigation unit compares its calculated vehicle position data
with the GPS vehicle position data. If there is large difference between the two, the
indicated vehicle position is adjusted to the GPS vehicle position.
Distance Tuning
The distance tuning reduces the difference between the travel distance signal from
the VSP and the distance data on the map. The navigation unit compares its
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calculated vehicle position data with the GPS vehicle position data. The navigation
unit then decreases the tuning value when the vehicle position is always ahead of
the GPS vehicle position, and it increases the tuning value when the vehicle
position is always behind the GPS vehicle position.
Route Guidance
The navigation unit can calculate different routes to a selected destination. You
have five options:
Direct Route - Calculate a route that is the most direct.

Easy Route - Calculate a route that minimizes the number of turns needed.
Minimize Freeways - Calculate a route that avoids freeway travel. If that is not
possible, keep the amount of freeway travel to a minimum.
Minimize Toll Roads - Calculate a route that avoids, or minimizes travel on
toll roads.
Maximize Freeways - Calculate a route that uses freeways as much as possible.
Audio Guidance
The navigation unit transmits audio driving instructions before entering an

intersection or passing a junction. The audio instructions come through the audio
unit to the front speakers.
NOTE: The front speakers are muted whenever the navigation

system is giving guidance commands, and all of the
speakers when the voice control system is being used.
DVD-ROM
The map data (including all scale rates) is stored in the DVD-ROM. The map data
includes:
Road distances, road widths, speed limits, traffic regulations, passing time at
junction, distances to junctions, and the driving instructions for audio guidance.
Latitude and longitude GPS.
Audio Unit
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The audio unit receives the audio driving instructions from the navigation unit and
transmits the instructions through the front speakers even when the audio system is
in use. The audio unit is also a termination point in the GA-Net bus.
Display Unit
The display unit uses liquid crystal display (LCD). The LCD is a 7-inch-diagonal,
thin film transistor (TFT), stripe type with 330,960 picture elements, The color film
and fluorescent light are laid out on the back of the liquid crystal film. The touch
sensor on the front of the LCD consists of a touch sensitive resistive membrane
with an infinite number of possible touch locations. To maintain compatibility with
earlier display units the sensing locations are confined to a grid of 20 vertical and
10 horizontal touch locations. This produces 200 total sensing zones. The display
unit transmits the signal from each operation key and the touch switches to the
navigation unit over the GA-Net bus.
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Fig. 11: View Of Display Unit

Microphone
The microphone (on the ceiling, near the front map light) receives voice commands
and transmits them to the navigation unit for interpretation.
Talk Button
Activates the voice control system in the navigation unit to accept voice commands.
Back Button
Returns the display to the previous screen (similar function as the CANCEL
button).
Glossary
The following is a glossary of terms pertaining to the Voice Recognition Navigation

System.
ITEM DEFINITION
Item Definition
Audio-HVAC The upper display that shows the time and current status of
subdisplay the audio and climate control systems.
Off road tracking dots that can be followed on the map to
Breadcrumbs retrace your route back to a mapped (digitized) road. This
function can be turned on/off in Setup screen 1.
Controller Area Network. This communication network
allows processors in the vehicle to send/receive information.
CAN The fuel pulses used by the trip computer are received from
the PCM using the F-CAN (Fast Controller Area Network)
bus.
B-CAN Body CAN Bus (see CAN)
Central Processing Unit. The main device within the
CPU navigation unit that coordinates the rest of the electronic
functions.
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This consists of the Map data, and the POI (Points Of

Database
Interest) data stored on the DVD
Drive By Wire. Allows electrical control of the throttle
DBW
without the need of a mechanical linkage.
Detailed Coverage Area. Main metropolitan areas in the
Lower 48 states, and Southern Canada are mapped to this
DCA
level. See the Navigation Owner's manual for a list of these
areas.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Use the Honda PGM Tester, or
DTC HDS tablet to obtain, and troubleshoot the cause of these
codes.
The use of the speed signal, and yaw rate sensor to position
Dead Reckoning the vehicle on the map even when the GPS signal is obscured
by tall buildings, or while driving in a tunnel.
A road that appears on the navigation screen. The road name
will appear at the bottom of the navigation screen. If the user
Digitized Road drives "off road", the navigation system will display "Not on
a digitized road", and if 1/2 mile, then "breadcrumbs" will
appear.
Screen containing cautionary information. It is meant to be
Disclaimer
read carefully and acknowledged by the customer when using
Screen
the navigation system.
Digital Versatile Disk. The navigation program and database
DVD or DVD-
resides on this disk. See the Navigation Owner's Manual for
ROM
information on how to order a replacement or update DVD.
ECM Engine Control Module. Typically referred to as the PCM.
Elapsed Time for the current trip as displayed by the trip
E/T
computer screen.
Frequently Asked Question. See the Navigation Owner's
FAQ Manual for a list of the customer FAQs, and troubleshooting
information.
F-CAN Fast CAN Bus (see CAN)
Fuel Economy value as displayed on the trip computer
FE
screen.
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This signal is transmitted on the CAN bus, and is used by the

Fuel Pulses
Trip Computer to calculate the fuel economy.
GA-Net bus Units communication line.
Global Positioning System. A network of 24 satellites in orbit
around the earth. The navigation system can simultaneously
GPS
receive signals from up to 12 satellites to accurately position
the vehicle on the map.
Honda Diagnostic System. A hand held tablet PC for use in
diagnosing vehicle problems. This device can be used to
HDS
obtain DTC codes for diagnosis of navigation system CAN
related problems.
Head Unit. The navigation system display unit assembly in
H/U
the dash.
This refers to the period needed to re-acquire the GPS
satellite orbital information whenever the navigation system
Initialization
power has been disconnected. This can take from 10 to 45
minutes.
LCD Liquid Crystal Display (the navigation screen)
The received GPS information allows the navigation system
to position the vehicle on the map. Map matching has
Map Matching
occurred if the map screen is displaying the current street
name in the bottom-shaded area.
Abbreviation for the microphone used for receiving voice
Mic
commands. It is located near the map light in the ceiling.
A "model code" stored on an internal "chip" in the navigation
Model (in the
unit. The model code tells the navigation unit what software
diagnosis
to load. Every navigation unit "model" has a unique part
Version screen)
number for the navigation unit.
Maneuver Window. While on-route to a destination, this
MW
window displays information about the next maneuver.
Navi Abbreviation for the Navigation System
This occurs when the user leaves mapped roads. Off road
Off Route tracking dots ("breadcrumbs") are displayed if the option is
enabled in Setup. The user can use them to return to a
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mapped road. The bottom of the navigation screen will say

"Not on a digitized road".
These are rural areas that typically have only their main roads
Outlying Areas mapped. All other roads are shown in light brown for
reference only, since they have not been verified.
PC Card Slot The PC Card (PCMCIA, type II) slot is for factory use only.
Powertrain Control Module. This unit supplies the navigation
PCM system speed signal, and sends fuel pulses for the trip
computer function via the F-CAN network.
A computer industry defined term referring to the PC Card
PCMCIA
slot standard.
Personal Identification Number. A random 4 digit number
PIN
created by the customer to protect personal information.
Point Of Interest. These are the businesses, schools etc. found
POI
under the "places" option on the main menu.
Colored areas on the map screen denoting parks, schools etc.
Polygon See the Navigation Owner's Manual "Traveling to Your
Destination" for a list of the assigned colors.
Keyboard layout resembling the typewriter keys. The
QWERTY keyboard layout can be changed to an alphabetical layout in
the Setup mode.
The 2-pin connector used to put the navigation system into
SCS connector
the diagnostic mode.
Code needed to activate the navigation system. The security
code can be obtained from the "iN" by entering the
Security Code navigation system control serial number. The serial number
can be found from the diagnostic screens (Unit Check, Navi
ECU), or from the under side of the control unit.
The navigation screen has 2 clear films on the screen panel.
Touch Switches
When you touch the screen panel, the films engaged and the
or Touch Sensor
display unit detects the touch point.
A continual update of internal navigation system scaling
Tuning factors. See the individual sensor tuning discussions under
either "System Description", or "System Diagnosis
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Mode" (see SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS MODE )

These streets have not been verified for turn restrictions, one-
Unverified way, etc. They are shown in light brown on the map. You can
Streets enter address destinations in these areas, but voice guidance
ends at the last verified street closest to your destination.
These streets consist of the detailed metropolitan coverage
Verified Streets areas, and all other inter-town connection roads. These roads
are shown in black on the map.
Vehicle Position. When in map mode, this circular icon
shows the vehicle position on the map. Touch this icon to
VP
show the latitude, longitude, and elevation of your current
position.
Voice Recognition. This allows voice control of many of the
navigation functions. The hardware consists of the
VR
microphone, steering wheel (Talk/Back) buttons, and the
front speakers. See the overview for more information.
Vehicle Speed Pulse. This pulse signal coming from the PCM
is used to update the Vehicle position on the map, and to
calculate the trip computer fuel economy. These pulses do
VSP
not indicate direction (forward or backward). When in
reverse, the navigation receives a signal from the MICU and
directs the VP to move backwards on the map.
Vehicle Speed Sensor. This sensor reads the output shaft
speed at the transmission and, provides a speed pulse to the
VSS
PCM. The PCM sends this pulse to the navigation system and
speedometer.
XM Satellite A satellite band radio system where signals are received from
Radio either a satellite or land based transmitters.
This device is located in the navigation system control unit
Yaw Sensor and senses the side-to-side twisting force generated when the
vehicle turns.
System Function Diagram
This diagram shows the features of the navigation system starting at the center and
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working outward in layers. The navigation program starts at "Key ON", and then
displays the globe screen. Once the disclaimer screen is acknowledged, the next
shaded portions of the diagram become active. However, some functions of the
INFO and SET UP buttons, and all functions of the AUDIO and A/C buttons can be
accessed immediately after the globe screen (white).
These items above the map screen show various methods to begin a destination,
such as "Go Home". Once you begin driving to your destination, you are provided
with map/voice guidance, routing cautions (in unverified areas), and a directions
list. While driving to your destination, use the voice control system as much as
possible to interact with the navigation, audio, and climate control systems.
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Fig. 12: Identifying System Function Diagram

Diagnostic Function Diagram
This diagram shows the diagnostic slice of the System Function Diagram. It has the
diagnostic features of the navigation system starting at the center and working
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outward in layers. The diagnostic starts at "Key ON," and then displays the
Diagnostic Main Menu (Select Diagnosis items) after:
The diagram shows the available menu choices starting at the bottom left and
moving clockwise.
In most cases, do not clear or change settings in any diagnostic screen unless
instructed to do so in the explanation or by the factory. If the factory supplies you
with a PCMCIA card to place in the PC slot, then the features specified in the
diagram with "Card" are available.
Starting the vehicle with the SCS connector plugged in to the navigation
service check connector (see FORCED STARTING OF DISPLAY ) to get to
the System Links screen, then selecting Return.
Simultaneously pressing and holding the MENU, MAP/GUIDE, and CANCEL
buttons.
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Fig. 13: Identifying Diagnostic Function Diagram

NAVIGATION UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS FOR CONNECTOR A (20P)
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Fig. 14: Identifying Navigation Unit Inputs And Outputs For Connector A
(20P)
NAVIGATION UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS FOR CONNECTOR B (14P)
Fig. 15: Identifying Navigation Unit Inputs And Outputs For Connector B
(14P)
NAVIGATION UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS FOR CONNECTOR C (8P)
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Fig. 16: Identifying Navigation Unit Inputs And Outputs For Connector C (8P)
NAVIGATION UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS FOR CONNECTOR E (2P)
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Fig. 17: Identifying Navigation Unit Inputs And Outputs For Connector E (2P)
DISPLAY UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS FOR CONNECTOR A (10P)
Fig. 18: Displaying Unit Inputs And Outputs For Connector A (10P)
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DISPLAY UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS FOR CONNECTOR B (20P)
Fig. 19: Displaying Unit Inputs And Outputs For Connector B (20P)
AUDIO-HVAC SUBDISPLAY UNIT INPUTS AND OUTPUTS FOR 10P CONNECTOR
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Fig. 20: Identifying Audio-HVAC Subdisplay Unit Inputs And Outputs For
10P Connector
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 21: Identifying Navigation System Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 22: Identifying Navigation System Circuit Diagram (2 Of 2)

AUDIO-HVAC SUBDISPLAY UNIT 10P CONNECTOR
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Fig. 23: Identifying Audio-HVAC Subdisplay Unit 10P Connector

DISPLAY UNIT CONNECTORS
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Fig. 24: Identifying Display Unit Connectors

NAVIGATION UNIT CONNECTORS
Fig. 25: Identifying Navigation Unit Connectors

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NO PICTURE IS DISPLAYED
NOTE: Always check the connectors for poor connections or

loose terminals.
Diagnostic Test: Navi System Link
Confirm the correct DVD disc is installed in the
navigation unit (see MAP MATCHING )
1. Check the No. 7 (10 A) fuse and No. 32 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box, and reinstall the fuse if it is OK.
Is the fuse OK?

YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse and recheck.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I).
3. Operate the radio and listen to the audio.
Can audio be heard?

YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Check the ACC circuit.
5. Measure the voltage between body ground and navigation unit connector C
(8P) terminals No. 1 and No. 2 individually.
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Fig. 26: Measuring Voltage Between Body Ground & Navigation Unit
Connector C (8P) Terminals No. 1 And No. 2 Individually
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - If the +B wire does not have voltage, repair open in the wire
between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the navigation unit.
If the ACC wire does not have voltage, repair open in the wire between
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the under-dash fuse/relay box and the navigation unit.

7. Disconnect the navigation unit connector C (8P).
8. Check for continuity between navigation unit connector C (8P) terminal No. 4
and body ground.
Fig. 27: Checking Continuity Between Navigation Unit Connector C (8P)

Terminal No. 4 & Body Ground
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YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the navigation unit and body
ground (G603).
9. Reconnect the navigation unit connector C (8P).
10. Perform the forced starting of the display (see FORCED STARTING OF
DISPLAY ).
Is the diagnosis menu of the picture diagnosis displayed?
YES - Go into the Diagnostic mode and use the "Navi System Link"
diagnostic (see NAVI SYSTEM LINK ) to check the links.
NO - Go to step 11.
11. Shield the display unit from the sun with your hand, and check that the display
is back lit (only back light is ON.)
Can you see the back light?
YES - Replace the navigation unit (see NAVIGATION UNIT

NO - Go to step 12.
13. Measure the voltage between body ground and display unit connector B (20P)
terminal No. 1 and No. 2 individually.
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Fig. 28: Measuring Voltage Between Body Ground & Display Unit
Connector B (20P) Terminal No. 1 And No. 2 Individually

YES - Replace the display unit.
NO - If the +B wire does not have voltage, repair open in the wire
between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the navigation unit.
If the ACC wire does not have voltage, repair open in the wire between
the under-dash fuse/relay box and the navigation unit.
PICTURE IS MISSING A COLOR OR TONE

loose terminals.
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Before troubleshooting, get the navigation system anti-

theft codes.
After troubleshooting, enter the navigation system anti-
theft codes.
1. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use "RGB Color" test under Monitor Check
(see MONITOR CHECK ).
Are the red, green, and blue colored circles shown?

NO - Go to step 2.
2. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
3. Disconnect the navigation unit connector A (20P) and display unit 20P
connector.
4. Check for loose terminals at navigation unit connector A (20P) and display unit
20P connector.
Are there loose terminals?

YES - Repair the terminal.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Check for continuity between the appropriate terminals of navigation unit
connector A (20P) to display unit connector B (20P) based on the missing color
(s).
WIRING CONDITION SPECIFICATION

Missing Navigation unit connector Display unit connector Wire
color A (20P) B (20P) color
Blue A11 B18 YEL
Green A2 B9 RED
Red A1 B8 WHT
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Fig. 29: Checking Continuity Between Appropriate Terminals Of

Navigation Unit Connector A (20P) To Display Unit Connector B (20P) (1
Of 2)
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Navigation Unit Connector A (20P) To Display Unit Connector B (20P) (2
Of 2)
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - There is an open in the circuit between the display unit and the
navigation unit. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the
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display and navigation units. If a poor connection or loose terminal is

found, replace the affected shielded harness.
6. Check for continuity between the appropriate terminals of navigation unit
connector A (20P) and display unit connector B (20P) based on the missing
color(s).
WIRING CONDITION SPECIFICATION
Missing Navigation unit connector A Display unit connector B
color (12P) (20P)
Blue A11 B10, B20
Green A2 B10, B20
Red A1 B10, B20
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Navigation Unit Connector A (20P) And Display Unit Connector B (20P)
(1 Of 2)
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Navigation Unit Connector A (20P) And Display Unit Connector B (20P)
(2 Of 2)
YES - There is a short to body ground in the circuit between the display
unit and the navigation unit. Replace the affected shielded harness.
NO - Replace the navigation unit. If the problem is still unresolved,
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replace the display unit.

PICTURE HAS LINES/ROLLS/OTHER ISSUES

loose terminals.
theft codes.
theft codes.
1. Check for electronic aftermarket accessories (possibly hidden) mounted near

the display unit or the navigation unit.
Are there any electronic accessories?

YES - Disable the accessories, and recheck.
NO - Go to step 2.
2. Start up the navigation picture.
Is the picture scrolling horizontally (left to right or right to left)?

YES - Check for an open or short to ground in the C SIG wire from
navigation unit connector A (20P) terminal No. 12 to display unit
connector B (20P) terminal No. 19. Also check for a short to ground
between display unit connector B terminal No. 19 and terminal No. 20.
NO - Go to step 3.
3. Go into the Diagnostic mode and use "RGB Color" test under Monitor Check
(see MONITOR CHECK ).
Is the picture missing a red, green or blue color?
YES - Do the troubleshooting for the picture is missing a color or tone

(see PICTURE IS MISSING A COLOR OR TONE ).
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NO - Go to step 4.
5. Substitute a known-good display unit, and recheck.
Is the picture OK?
YES - Replace the original display unit.

NO - Replace the navigation unit (see NAVIGATION UNIT
DISPLAY UNIT BUTTONS OR TOUCH SCREEN BUTTONS DO NOT WORK OR RESPOND
PROPERLY
NOTE: If the audio system is malfunctioning, repair the audio

system first. Refer to the appropriate audio system
troubleshooting ( See SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING .
Always check the connectors for poor connections or
loose terminals.
theft codes.
theft codes.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I).

2. Go into the Diagnostic mode and use the "Touch Panel" test under Monitor
Check (see MONITOR CHECK ) and, if necessary, the "Display" test under
Unit Check (see UNIT CHECK ).
Do the buttons work properly?
YES - System is OK.

NO - Go to step 3.
3. Try all the buttons on the navigation system.
Is there a specific row or columns of buttons, set of button, or a certain

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button that does not respond properly (i.e. pressing a button in the lower
left corner causes a button in the right lower corner to respond.)?

NO - Go to step 4.
4. Measure the voltage between body ground and, display unit connector B (20P)
Fig. 33: Measuring Voltage Between Body Ground & Display Unit
Connector B (20P) Terminal No 1 And No 2 Individually

YES - Go to step 5.
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NO - If the +B wire does not have voltage, repair the open in the wire
between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the display unit. If the ACC
wire does not have voltage, repair the open in the wire between the under-
dash fuse/relay box and the display unit.
6. Disconnect the display unit connector B (20P).
7. Check for continuity between display unit connector B (20P) terminal No. 10
and body ground.
Fig. 34: Checking Continuity Between Display Unit Connector B (20P)

Terminal No. 10 & Body Ground
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YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Repair the open in the wire between the display unit and body
ground (G503).
8. Disconnect the navigation unit connector A (20P).
9. Check for continuity between body ground and display unit connector B (20P)
Fig. 35: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground & Display Unit
Connector B (20P) Terminal No. 5 And No. 15 Individually
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YES - There is a short to body ground in the circuit between the display
unit and the navigation unit. Replace the affected shielded harness.
NO - Go to step 10.
and navigation unit connector A (20P) terminal No. 10.

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Terminal No. 5 & Navigation Unit Connector A (20P) Terminal No. 10


and navigation unit connector A (20P) terminal No. 20.
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Terminal No. 15 & Navigation Unit Connector A (20P) Terminal No. 20

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GPS ICON IS WHITE, OR NOT SHOWN
NOTE: Make sure the vehicle is parked outside and away from
buildings.
Refer to GPS Information (see GPS INFORMATION ) for
realtime satellite reception display.
1. Check for metallic window tint on the windshield and electronic aftermarket
accessories (possibly hidden) mounted near the GPS antenna or the navigation
unit.
Is there metallic window tint or electronic accessories?
YES - Remove tint or the accessories and recheck.

NO - Go to step 2.
2. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use the "Navi System Link" test (see NAVI
SYSTEM LINK ) to check the GPS antenna.
Is "GPS Ant" icon red?
YES - Use the "Navi ECU" test under Unit Check (see UNIT CHECK )
to check for a kinked, crushed, or disconnected GPS antenna wire. If
necessary, try a known-good GPS antenna. If icon is still red, replace the
navigation unit.
NO - Check that nothing is blocking the GPS antenna located under the
rear shelf and recheck. Substitute a known-good navigation unit, and
recheck.
VOICE GUIDANCE CANNOT BE HEARD

loose terminals.
Before troubleshooting, write down the customer's
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radio station presets, and get the radio and navigation

system anti-theft codes.
After troubleshooting, enter the radio and navigation
system anti-theft codes, and the radio station presets.
1. Press the display unit SET-UP button.

2. Check the volume setting for the navigation system.
Is it set to OFF?
YES - Set the volume to an audible level.

NO - Go to step 3.
3. Check the radio operation.
Can you hear the radio?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Troubleshoot the audio system.
SYSTEM LINK ) to check the radio.
Is "Radio" icon red?

YES - Troubleshoot the audio system.
NO - Go to step 5.
6. Disconnect the navigation unit connector B (14P) and the audio unit connector
A (20P).
7. Check for continuity between body ground and navigation unit connector B
(14P) terminals No. 5, No. 12 individually.
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Fig. 38: Checking Continuity Between Body Ground & Navigation Unit
Connector B (14P) Terminals No. 5 And No. 12 Individually
YES - Replace the affected shielded harness.
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Check for continuity between navigation unit connector B (14P) terminal No. 5
and the audio unit connector A (20P) terminal No. 13.
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Fig. 39: Checking Continuity Between Navigation Unit Connector B (14P)

Terminal No. 5 & Audio Unit Connector A (20P) Terminal No. 13
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - There is an open in the circuit between the navigation unit and audio
unit. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the audio and
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navigation units. If a poor connection or loose terminal is found, replace

the affected shielded harness.
9. Check for continuity between navigation unit connector B (14P) terminal No.
12 and the audio unit connector A (20P) terminal No. 12.
Fig. 40: Checking Continuity Between Navigation Unit Connector B (14P)

Terminal No. 12 & Audio Unit Connector A (20P) Terminal No. 12
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NO - There is an open in the circuit between the navigation unit and audio
unit. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the audio and
navigation units. If a poor connection or loose terminal is found, replace
the affected shielded harness.
10. Substitute a known-good audio unit, and recheck.
Is the system OK?
YES - Replace the original audio unit.

VOICE CONTROL DOES NOT WORK/RESPOND

loose terminals.
Before troubleshooting, write down the customer's
radio station presets, and get the radio and navigation
system anti-theft codes.
After troubleshooting, enter the radio and navigation
system anti-theft codes, and the radio station presets.
Before assuming that a voice complaint is hardware related, ensure that the voice
control system is being operated correctly.
Make sure you are on the correct screen when trying to issue a voice command.
For instance, the command "Find the nearest Italian Restaurant" only works on
a Map screen.
(See the Navigation System Manual for a complete list of allowed voice
commands for the information being displayed.)
Close the windows and moonroof.
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Set the fan speed to low (1 or 2).

Adjust the air flow from the air conditioning vents so that they do not blow
against the microphone on the ceiling.
Pause after pressing the TALK button, then give a voice command clearly in a
natural speaking voice. If the system cannot recognize your command, speak
louder.
If the microphone picks up voices other than yours, the system may not
interpret your voice commands correctly.
If you speak a command with something in your mouth, or your voice is too
husky, the system may misunderstand your command.
1. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use the "Mic Level" test the under Functional
Setup (see FUNCTIONAL SETUP ) to check the operation of the TALK and
BACK buttons.
Are the TALK and BACK buttons operational?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Check for an open or short to ground on navigation unit connector B
(14P) terminal No. 10.
2. Use the "Mic Level" diagnostic under Functional Setup (see FUNCTIONAL
SETUP ) to check the operation of the microphone.
Is the microphone operational?
YES - Check the operation of the voice control system (see the Navigation
System Manual).
NO - Check for a loose front map light (microphone) assembly. If OK,
check for an open or short to ground on navigation unit connector B (14P)
VEHICLE POSITION ICON CONSTANTLY LEAVES ROAD OR IS VERY FAR FROM ACTUAL
POSITION
1. Check the GPS icon on the navigation picture.
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Is No GPS icon shown?

YES - Do the troubleshooting for GPS icon is white, or not shown (see
GPS icon is white, or not shown ).
NO - Go to step 2.
2. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use the "Yaw Rate" test (see YAW RATE )
to check the yaw rate sensor.
3. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use the "Car Status" test (see CAR
STATUS ) to check the vehicle speed pulse.
Are the yaw rate sensor and vehicle speed pulse OK?
YES - The problem may be normal. Check to see if the problem occurs in
the same place. If it does, the problem could be in the database. Go to step
4.
NO - If the problem is the yaw rate sensor, replace the navigation unit (see
NAVIGATION UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ). If the problem
is the vehicle speed pulse, troubleshoot the vehicle speed signal circuit.
4. Substitute a known-good navigation unit and check to see if the problem
occurs in the same place.
Does the problem occur in the same place?

YES - The problem is in the database. Report the problem according to the
Navigation System Manual under "Reporting Errors".
NO - Replace the original navigation unit (see NAVIGATION UNIT
DVD SCREEN ERROR MESSAGES
NOTE: Check the Navigation System Manual for a list of

common DVD screen error messages and the probable
cause.
Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use the "Car Status"
test (see CAR STATUS ) to check the status of the DVD
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lid.
1. Check the DVD-ROM reading surface for scratches.

Are there scratches?
YES - Replace the DVD-ROM (see FORCED STARTING OF

DISPLAY ).
NO - If the problem occurs occasionally when the system is cold, this is
normal. If the problem occurs frequently when driving, replace the
navigation unit (see NAVIGATION UNIT
TRIP COMPUTER-NO DISTANCE

loose terminals.
theft codes.
theft codes.
If the Previous button on the Trip Computer screen is
not active, make sure to answer OK to the Disclaimer
screen.
Verify that the correct navigation unit is installed for
this model. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use
"Version" (see VERSION ).
1. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use the "Car Status" test (see CAR
STATUS ) to check for a vehicle speed pulse (VSP).
Is there a VSP when the vehicle is moving?

YES - Check the CAN system for DTCs. If OK, replace the navigation
unit.
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NO - Check the VSP wire for an open or short to power or ground.

TRIP COMPUTER-NO FUEL INFORMATION

loose terminals.
theft codes.
theft codes.
If the Previous button on the Trip Computer screen is
not active, make sure to answer OK to the Disclaimer
screen.
Do the "Navi System Link" test (see NAVI SYSTEM LINK ) to check the
communication line between the ECM/PCM (FI-ECU) and the navigation unit.
1. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use "Trip Computer" test under Unit Check
(see UNIT CHECK ) with the engine running.
Are the values greater than zero?

NO - Check the CAN system for DTCs. If OK, replace the navigation
unit.
NAVIGATION CANNOT CONTROL A/C

loose terminals.
Before troubleshooting get the navigation system anti-
theft codes.
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theft codes.
SYSTEM LINK ).
Is "Air-con" icon red?
YES - Do the climate control system troubleshooting.

NO - Check for an open or short to ground between display unit connector
A (5P) terminals No. 2, No. 3 No. 4 and climate control unit connector A
(16P) terminals No. 16, No. 15, No. 8. If OK, check the climate control
system for normal operation. If the climate control system works properly,
substitute a known-good display unit and recheck.
DISPLAY DAY/NIGHT MODE DOES NOT WORK

loose terminals.
Before troubleshooting get the navigation system anti-
theft codes.
theft codes.
Full brightness on the instrument panel brightness
control causes the system to stay in the day mode,
even when the lights are on.
1. Make sure the instrument panel brightness control is not on full brightness.
2. Change the day/night mode to AUTO under Set-up and recheck.
Does the display change to day and night modes using the headlights?
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NO - Go to step 3.
3. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use the "Car Status" test to check for an ILL
signal (see Car Status ).
Is "ILL" signal OK?

NO - Check the ILL+ circuit between the navigation unit and relay
module.
SYSTEM LOCKS UP CONSTANTLY
1. Start the engine and turn the ignition switch OFF, then turn the ignition switch
ON (II).
Does the system reboot?

NO - Check the DVD for scratches or damage and the navigation unit for
water damage. If OK, go into the Diagnostic Menu and do all of the "Unit
Check" tests (see UNIT CHECK ).
VEHICLE ICON WANDERS ACROSS THE MAP WHEN DRIVING (DOES NOT FOLLOW A
DISPLAYED ROAD) OR SPINS WHEN DRIVING
NOTE: This symptom is caused by a defective yaw rate sensor.

Perform this diagnostic when the vehicle is cold and warm.
1. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and use the "Yaw Rate" test (see YAW RATE ).
Are the values correct?

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NAVIGATION DRIVES BY ITSELF WHEN PARKED

loose terminals.
theft code.
After troubleshooting, re-enter the anti-theft code, and
re-initialize the navigation system.

2. From the main menu, select places, then select any destination, and begin the
trip.
3. With the vehicle parked, watch the vehicle icon on the display.
Does the vehicle position icon move by itself?
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Go into the Diagnostic Menu and select "DEMO MODE" test (see DEMO
MODE ) under Functional Setup.
Is "DEMO MODE" set to "YES"?
YES - Set the Demonstration mode to "NO".

NAVIGATION STAYS ON WITH IGNITION SWITCH OFF

loose terminals.
theft code.
After troubleshooting, re-enter the anti-theft code, and
re-initialize the navigation system.
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1. With the key out of the ignition.

Does the navigation screen stay on?
YES - Go to step 2.
2. The vehicle may have been used as a demonstration vehicle at an event like an
auto show. In these events, power is often jumpered to the navigation system
so that the ignition key is not needed in the vehicle. At the end of the show, the
jumper wire may not have been removed. Check the navigation unit "C"
connector (8P) for a "non-factory" jumper wire in series with the factory cable.
Is there a jumper wire?
YES - Remove the jumper wire, and re-test.

NO - Go to step 3.
3. The display or audio unit may have been jumpered behind the dash to allow the
navigation system to run without the ignition key.
Does the radio function with the ignition switch off?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 5.
4. Remove the display unit and check to see if the audio 20P connector has a non-
factory jumper wire in series with the factory connector.
Is there a jumper wire?
YES - Remove the jumper wire, and re-test.

NO - Go to step 5.
5. Check the interior lights with the ignition switch off.
Can you turn on the interior lights with the ignition switch off?
YES - Troubleshooting the ACC circuit.
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NAVIGATION CANNOT CONTROL AUDIO/CD
1. Make sure the anti-theft code for the audio system is entered.
SYSTEM LINK ).
Is for "Radio" icon red?
YES - Do the troubleshooting for the voice guidance cannot be heard (see
GPS icon is white, or not shown ).
NO - Go to step 3.
3. Substitute a known-good navigation unit (see NAVIGATION UNIT
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ), and recheck.
Can the navigation control audio/CD?

YES - Replace the original navigation unit (see NAVIGATION UNIT
NO - Do the audio system troubleshooting.
NAVIGATION CANNOT CONTROL XM RADIO
SYSTEM LINK ).
Is the "XM" icon red?

YES - Check the connector at the XM receiver.
NO - Go to step 2.
2. Substitute a known-good navigation unit (see NAVIGATION UNIT
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ), and recheck.
Can the navigation control the XM radio?
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YES - Replace the original navigation unit (see NAVIGATION UNIT

NO - Do the audio system troubleshooting.
AUDIO-HVAC SUBDISPLAY DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY
1. Check the clock. Reset if necessary.
Does the clock reset?

NO - Go to step 2.
2. Check for an open or short to body ground between subdisplay unit 10P
connector terminal No. 4, No. 5, No. 6, No. 7 and navigation unit connector A
(10P) terminal No. 4, No. 5, No. 6, No. 7.
Are the circuits OK?
YES - Replace the navigation unit.

NO - Repair the circuits.
NAVIGATION FREQUENTLY ASKS FOR CODE AND NEEDS GPS INITIALIZATION
1. Check for an open on navigation unit connector C (8P) terminals No. 1 and No.
2.
Are the circuits OK?
YES - Replace the navigation unit.

NO - Repair the circuits.
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS MODE
START-UP PROCEDURE AND DIAGNOSIS MENU
There are two ways to enter the diagnostic mode:
1. Connect the SCS connector (see FORCED STARTING OF DISPLAY ) to

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the navigation service connector located in the trunk. Turn the ignition switch
to the ON (II) position. The display will go directly to the diagnostic menu
screen shown in Fig. 41.
NOTE: When finished troubleshooting, make sure to remove

the SCS connector.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Use the navigation display hard buttons as
described below:
Press and hold the 3 buttons (Menu, Map/Guide, and Cancel), and keep them
pressed for about 5 seconds. The display screen will go directly to the "Select
Diagnosis Items" menu shown in Fig. 41.
NOTE: This only allows access to the diagnostic screens. All

other navigation functions are disabled.
Fig. 41: Identifying System Diagnosis Mode

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3. After the display changes to the Select Diagnosis Items menu, select the item
you want to check and the diagnostic will start. To return to the previous
screen, select "RETURN".
Navi System (Link)
Monitor Check
Unit Check
Car Status
F-CAN
GPS Information
Yaw Rate
Tire Calibrate
Functional Setup
Version
NAVI SYSTEM LINK
This diagnostic tests the cables connecting the navigation components. Ensure
that the ignition switch is in the ON (II) position. When the diagnostic begins,
a "bong" sound is heard. The system is in a "Detecting" mode, and is waiting
for all items in white to be tested. This includes the voice control (Talk/Back)
buttons, and microphone. Press the TALK button on the steering wheel, and in
a normal voice, say "testing". The Talk indicator on the screen should become
green, and the voice level indicator should move to at least the 6th bar to pass.
Next, press the Back button. This should cause the "Cancel" indicator to go
green.
If all of the communication lines connecting the system components, and the
Talk/Back switch buttons/microphone check out OK (all block diagram items
green), then the "OK" indicator will become green.
If there is a problem with the system, the faulty system component item will
change to red, and the screen will show "NG" in red. Use the troubleshooting
index, and other diagnostic screens to help locate the problem.
The indication on the screen may not change until the ignition switch is cycled.
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After repairing the affected cable or system, repeat this diagnostic.
NOTE: Green boxes and green "OK" indicate that the

communications lines (cables) are intact. This
diagnostic does not necessarily imply that the
individual components are functioning properly. For
instance, the GPS antenna wire may be crushed, but
still show as "green". A road test, or other diagnostic
may be necessary to fully test each component.
Fig. 42: Identifying Navi System Link

NOTE: The mic level indicator must reach the 6th bar or greater to
pass the test.
FACTORY DIAGNOSTIC SCREEN "IN LINE DIAG"
When a navigation control unit is powered up for the first time at the factory, the
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"factory diagnosis" screen (In Line Diag) shows up. Normally the factory performs
the steps necessary to verify proper operation and terminate the "factory
diagnostic". Until the proper confirmation sequence is performed, the screen will
show up every time the vehicle is started.
Fig. 43: Identifying Diagnostic Screen

Follow the steps below to prevent the screen from showing up in the future:
Hold down the buttons (Menu + Map/Guide + Cancel) for about 5 seconds (the
"Select Diagnosis Items" screen will appear)
Hold down the Map/ Guide button for 5-10 seconds (A screen with a
"Complete" button, will appear)
Touch "Complete", and then the "Return" button (the system may re-boot)
Restart the vehicle, and confirm normal operation by completing the "PDI of
the navigation system" Service Bulletin.
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MONITOR CHECK
Overview of display unit
The display unit communicates with the navigation unit over its own GA-Net
bus. Information is sent to the navigation unit whenever the user activates the
touch screen, or buttons. Information sent by the navigation unit to the display
unit includes commands to control the LCD back light.
The navigation unit also sends navigation and rear camera video information to
the screen using the Red, Green, Blue, and Composite Video signals.
The display unit is protected by the security system by daisy-chaining the
security signal through it, and then passing the signal to the audio unit.
The illumination input from the gauge brightness control provides back
lighting for the buttons surrounding the screen.
These screens allow troubleshooting of the display unit. Select the item you want to
troubleshoot, and follow the diagnostic instructions.
Fig. 44: Identifying Overview Of Display Unit

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RGB Color
This screen verifies that the display unit is receiving the video (R, G, B and
Composite sync) signals properly. The three primary colors should all be shown
without distortion. The combination of all three should produce a central white
section. If any of the colors are missing, troubleshoot for the color signal (see
PICTURE IS MISSING A COLOR OR TONE ). If the picture has lines in it or
scrolls horizontally, or vertically, troubleshoot for a Composite sync problem (see
PICTURE HAS LINES/ROLLS/OTHER ISSUES ).
Fig. 45: Identifying RGB Color

Gray Tone
This screen looks for problems with contrast. You should be able to see the changes
from bar to bar across the scale. It is normal for the 2 bars on either side to appear
the same.
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Fig. 46: Identifying Gray Tone

White Raster
The entire display must be shown in white.
Fig. 47: Identifying White Raster

Black Raster
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The entire display must be shown in black.
Fig. 48: Identifying Black Raster

Color Pattern
The chart below shows the colors being used for the map and menu screens. This is
for factory use only. To check the color signal use the "RGB Color" diagnostic
found under the Monitor Check.
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Fig. 49: Identifying Color Pattern

Monitor Adjustment
This allows the navigation display to be centered. Use the joystick to move the
picture up/down or left/right. It is unlikely that you will ever need to adjust the
monitor position. The "Default" button will reset the display position to factory
specifications.
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Fig. 50: Identifying Monitor Adjustment

Touch Panel
The panel touch sensing system consists of a touch sensitive resistive membrane
covering the display. Contrarily to other systems using infrared beams, the screen
has to be physically "touched" to make it work. The display has capability of an
almost infinite number of touch locations. However, to be compatible with earlier
systems, the software only senses the locations shown on the diagram screen in Fig.
51. Every possible touch button position is shown on this diagram screen. Touching
one of these should cause its color to reverse, and sound a "beep." If the touch
locations are off slightly (by less than one touch location), use the "Touch Panel
Calibration" diagnostic to re-align the touch "zones" with the screen image. If any
areas of the screen either don't respond, or respond at some other location when
touched, the replace the display unit.
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Fig. 51: Identifying Touch Panel

Touch Panel Calibration
Touch the "+" item on the screen. If the screen respond at some other location when
touched, adjust responded point to touched point using the joy stick.
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Fig. 52: Identifying Touch Panel Calibration

UNIT CHECK
Select the item you want to check and the diagnostic starts.
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Fig. 53: Identifying Unit Check

Display
This diagnostic performs additional checks on the communication bus between the
control unit and the display. In addition, the internal electronics and touch screen
functionality are confirmed.
When the connection is NG, first check for loose terminals at the navigation
unit and the display unit connections. Next check for an open or short in the
communication line between the navigation unit and the display unit. If the line
is found to have an open or short, replace the affected shielded harness.
If the ROM or RAM is NG, replace the display unit.
The version represents the software version in the display.
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Fig. 54: Identifying Display

Radio
This diagnostic checks the audio connections. If not OK, do the troubleshooting for
audio system.
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Fig. 55: Identifying Radio

Navi ECU
This screen looks for problems the navigation unit. When this diagnostic is
initiated, there is a delay of up to a minute while it runs.
NOTE: This diagnostic cannot be canceled when running.
If "V-RAM" or "D-RAM" is NG, then replace the navigation unit.

If "GPS" indicates "NG (ANT)", then check the entire GPS antenna wire from
the navigation unit to the antenna. If the wire is crushed or damaged, try a
known good antenna. If this diagnostic reads OK, then order a new GPS
antenna. If the diagnostic still reads NG (ANT), then replace the navigation
unit.
"DVD ROM" represents the database version on the DVD. This information
can also be found in Setup Screen 4 by selecting System Information.
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"Serial No." should be the same as the serial number found on the underside of
the navigation unit. This number is needed to obtain the security code from the
Interactive Network (IN) system.
The Mem Clr is for factory use and should not be used unless instructed by the
factory. Selecting this will erase the customer's settings, personal information,
and anything else stored in memory.
Fig. 56: Identifying Navi ECU

Trip Computer
This screen shows current internal values used for trip computer calculations. They
are for factory use only.
Simulation "Start" is for factory use.

"Data Save" should always be OFF. It is for factory use only.
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Fig. 57: Identifying Trip Computer

Trip Calibrate
By holding down the MENU button while on the "Trip Information" screen, you
will see the screen below. This screen allows you to adjust the vehicle range
(distance to empty).
"Calc. RANGE" is the calculated value.
"Disp. RANGE" is the distance displayed on the trip computer "Range" field.
If it reads "0", the vehicle will have enough fuel to travel approximately 20
miles.
Range Tuning can be adjusted "+" or "-" to adjust the range to empty. It is
recommended that this value not be changed.
NOTE: Setting the range offset too low (+10) could result in the
vehicle running out of gas before the display reads "0".
Make changes slowly when changing this value.
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Fig. 58: Identifying Trip Calibrate

PC Card info.
There is no PC Card in the PC slot, and the screen should say, "PC Card is not
inserted."
NOTE: Do not insert any card or object into the slot.
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Fig. 59: Identifying PC Card (1 Of 2)

If the factory provides a PC card and instructs you to insert a card, then the screen
displays the Manufacturer, and Product Name as shown in Fig. 60 .
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Fig. 60: Identifying PC Card (2 Of 2)

Hard Key
This diagnostic tests the joystick, and the buttons that surround it. For this model,
the joystick and buttons utilize the GA-Net bus for communication to the navigation
control unit.
To complete the test, touch each button, and move the joystick to each indicated
position. As each function is tested, the corresponding button on the display should
highlight. To exit, push in and hold the joystick.
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Fig. 61: Identifying Hard Key

CAR STATUS
This screen is used to confirm that navigation unit is properly receiving input
signals. Signals equal to (0) are OFF, and signals equal to (1) are ON. If the value
on the display does not match the actual vehicle status, then check the wire carrying
the signal.
VSP-Vehicle Speed Pulse from PCM (Pin 6 of C-connector)
a. OFF (0) when vehicle is not moving
b. ON (1) when vehicle is moving
The VSP comes from the PCM as a dedicated signal. Internally, the navigation unit
compares the actual VP on the map against street data to adjust the pulse to speed
scaling factor. As this scaling factor becomes more accurate, the "Level" gradually
increases from 0 to 10 (see the Tire Calibrate diagnostic screen).
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BACK-Reverse indication from taillight relay (Pin 5 of C-connector)

a. OFF (0) when shift lever is in any position other than reverse
b. ON (1) when shift lever is in reverse
The Back signal is used by the navigation unit to allow the map screen to show the
VP moving backwards when in reverse and to activate the rearview camera. This
signal is needed because the Speed Pulse has no direction indication.
This signal is obtained off of the F-CAN bus. For problems, perform F-CAN
troubleshooting. Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) for the F-CAN can be retrieved
with the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System).
ILL-Illumination Indication (Pin 5 of navigation unit A-connector)

a. OFF (0) when parking lights, or headlights are off
b. ON (1) when parking lights, or headlights are off
This signal is used by the navigation unit to determine whether to put the navigation
screen into the Day or Night brightness mode. (Setup screen 1)
DVD Lid-senses if DVD door is open
a. (Close) when door is closed
b. (Open) when door is open
The navigation unit has a micro switch to detect this. If open is indicated when the
door is closed, replace the navigation unit.
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Fig. 62: Identifying Car Status

F-CAN SYSTEM LINK
F-CAN (Fast Controller Area Network) passes information between processors on

the network. For example, the F-CAN network is used to pass fuel pulses between
the PCM and the navigation unit for the trip computer function. The F-CAN
network uses a communication protocol that transmits data at 500 Kbps.
If the diagnostic screen below reads NG with the ignition switch ON (II), then
diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) for the F-CAN can be retrieved with the HDS
(Honda Diagnostic System). The data displayed in the ID boxes is irrelevant.
For more details on troubleshooting the F-CAN, refer to the DTC
TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX .
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Fig. 63: Identifying F-CAN System Link

GPS INFORMATION
This screen shows the current status of GPS reception.

The circular diagram shows the current location of the GPS satellites (yellow dots)
as they would appear in the sky. The outer circle represents the horizon (0 degrees
elevation). The middle and inner circles represents 30 and 60 degrees respectively.
The very center of the diagram (90 degrees elevation) is directly overhead.
Naturally, nearby obstructions, like tall buildings will block satellites in that
direction. That is why it is necessary to be in an open area to effectively
troubleshoot GPS reception issues. There are always 24 "active" GPS satellites in
orbit. Because satellites fail, and have to be removed from service, spares always
parked in orbit, ready to be activated. This is why the PRN (satellite ID number)
can be greater than 24.
NOTE: To use this screen for troubleshooting, the vehicle should

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be out side away from buildings, tall trees, and high-tension

wires for at least 10 minutes with the engine running.
The "Number of Satellites" box shows the number of acquired satellites

(maximum of 12). It should contain 3 or more icons. If not troubleshoot for
"GPS icon is white, or not shown" (see GPS icon is white, or not shown ).
The "Current Position" shows latitude, longitude, and elevation (in meters). If
there are less than 3 satellites, the elevation can be grossly inaccurate.
The Date/Time field shows the current date, and also a time that includes
daylight savings and other offsets entered by the customer in Setup screen 2
"Adjust Time Zone/Clock".
Fig. 64: Identifying GPS Information

GPS DETAIL
By pressing and holding the MENU button for 10 seconds, a GPS Detail screen is
displayed. This screen displays real time incoming satellite positional data. Most of
the information shown on this screen is for factory use, however some of the data
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can indicate partial GPS signal interference.
Fig. 65: Identifying GPS Detail

The box TS/AS and HDop/VDop is for factory use.
The Speed and Direction information is updated in real time when driving, and
can be used to detect intermittent speed sensor problems.
The Date/Time Information is the same as in Setup screen "Adjust Time
Zone/Clock".
If the "3D" icon is shown above the yellow dots, this implies that at least 4
satellites are available for map positioning, and the "GPS" indicator on the map
screen will be green. See the "Global Positioning System" detailed explanation
in the "System Description".
If the row of data in the table below begins with a "yellow dot", the AZI and
EL fields can be used to locate each satellite on the circular GPS diagram (see
prior screen).
NOTE: The data shown in the GPS Detail screen is an example
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only.
The table of values shown on the screen below has the following columns:
EXAMPLE OF GPS DETAIL SCREEN
Column Description Problem indication
Active Active satellites (Yellow If "3D" is missing, follow
Dot) GPS icon is white, or not
shown troubleshooting
(see GPS icon is white, or
not shown ).
PRN The satellite ID number
ST The status: 0=cannot If all 0, then, follow GPS
view or searching, icon is white, or not shown
2=acquiring troubleshooting (see GPS
icon is white, or not
shown ).
AZI Azimuth, the angle (0-
360) clockwise from
north
EL Elevation from the
horizon (90 deg is
overhead)
C/N N/A Healthy signal is 49-52, no
signal: 27-33
ACC N/A
YAW RATE
This diagnostic checks the yaw rate sensor in the control unit. This device detects
when the vehicle turns, and repositions the vehicle position icon on the map screen.
For more detailed information, see the yaw rate sensor theory of operation under
"System Description"
"Sensor" indicates the voltage output from the yaw rate sensor. It should
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indicate about 2.500 volts when stopped.

"Offset" is the reference voltage or standard within the yaw rate sensor. It also
should indicate about 2.500 volts when stopped.
A "sensor" output voltage HIGHER than the "Offset" voltage indicates that the
vehicle is turning to the right.
A "sensor" output voltage LOWER than the "Offset" voltage indicates that the
vehicle is turning to the left.
The yaw rate offset, and sensor should both indicate about 2.500 volts when
stopped. If either reads zero, or 5.000 volts, replace the navigation unit.
The yaw rate offset and sensor should be within +/00.01 V of each other when
stopped. The sensor value should change relative to the offset as the car is
turned while driving. If not, replace the navigation unit.
Example: Car stopped
NORMAL ABNORMAL REFERENCE

Normal Abnormal
Offset 2.526 V Offset 2.526 V
Sensor 2.516-2.536 V Sensor 2.623 V
Example: Car turning

NORMAL ABNORMAL REFERENCE
Normal Abnormal
Offset 2.526 V Offset 2.526 V
2.678 V (right
2.623 V (no change
Sensor turn) Sensor
on turns)
2.478 V (left turn)
The settings "CCW Cal Factor", "CW Cal Factor", and "Set" are for factory use
only. THIS SHOULD NEVER BE USED.
Touch "Tuning" to view small but gradual yaw rate problems.
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Fig. 66: Identifying Yaw Rate

Yaw Rate Tuning
This diagnostic allows you to graphically display problems with the yaw rate
sensor.
The "ANG-Disp" value accumulates any differences between the "offset", and
"sensor" voltages (see Yaw Rate diagnostic). When the sensor is healthy, the
random changes in these two voltages generally cancels out, so the value is 0.
However if one voltage is consistently higher than the other, then the "ANG-
Disp" value accumulates the constant change.
The "Reset" button temporarily clears the angular accumulation (ANG-Disp),
and clears the display dots.
Do not touch the "CCW" or "CW", or "Set" buttons. These are used for factory
setup only.
Two tests are explained below. For gross problems with the sensor, the stationary
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test usually confirms whether the sensor is defective. For yaw rate issues related to
driving, perform the road test described below.
1. Stationary test: If the "VP" icon spins in place and the "ANG-Disp" value
slowly increases or decreases in value, the yaw rate sensor is defective.
Replace the Navigation control unit.
2. Road test: Drive the vehicle on a very straight road. Enter the diagnostic mode,
select "Yaw rate", and touch the "Tuning" button. While driving down a
straight road, the white "dots" should trace a straight line across the screen.
However, if you are driving on a straight road, and you notice the dots
constantly dropping down or heading up as you drive, the navigation control
unit's yaw sensor is defective. You can touch "Reset" to clear "ANG-Disp",
and dotted line.
3. If either test above fails, please enter "Yaw rate sensor defective" for the
problem description, on the "Navigation core return form".
Fig. 67: Identifying Yaw Rate Tuning

TIRE CALIBRATE
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As the vehicle moves, the navigation system receives speed pulses from the PCM.
These pulses are converted using a conversion factor to a mph speed that moves the
vehicle position (VP) on the map. The navigation system has an internal tuning
function that generates and refines this factor based on actual driving. The "Level"
indicates the status of the tuning. At initialization, it begins at 0, and increases to 10
as the navigation system is used.
The "Auto Tuning" is factory set to "ON", and should remain on.
The "LEVEL" indicates the tuning status. If it is less than 10, the unit is still
calibrating.
The "Tire-Cal. Tuning" and Set should not be used. It is for factory use only.
Fig. 68: Identifying Tire Calibrate Display

FUNCTIONAL SETUP
Select the item you want to check.
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Fig. 69: Functional Setup Display

Log Data
This screen allows the factory to collect log data to troubleshoot navigation system
issues.
Normally there is no card in the "PC Card slot", and the PC slot door should
always be closed.
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Fig. 70: Display Log Data

However, if the factory provides a PC card and instructs you to insert it into the
card slot (label side up), and then slide the PC Card door shut. If instructed by
the factory, select "Gyro. Sensor Logs ON". Follow the factory procedure for
gathering test data, and properly ending the test.
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Fig. 71: Identifying PC Card

GPS Send Time
This screen is for factory use only, do not adjust. It allows adjustment of the GPS
time. This display updates in real time.
"GPS Time" is the time as received from the GPS satellites. It is in Greenwich
Mean Time (GMT).
"System Time" is the internal time used by the navigation unit to calculate your
position on the map. It is also in Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
"Display Time" is the time shown on Setup screen 2 "Adjust Time
Zone/Clock", and reflects any changes due to daylight savings time or time
adjustments entered by the customer.
Date, Hour, Minute, and "Set" should not be used.
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Fig. 72: Identifying GPS Send Time

Demo Mode
This screen is for factory use only, and should always be set to "OFF". Occasionally
this setting is turned "ON" when vehicles are being used at Auto Shows or similar
events. Turning this feature on, allows the navigation system to automatically
follow a route to a destination when the vehicle is stationary.
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Fig. 73: Identifying Demo Mode

Mic Level
This diagnostic allows you to independently test the microphone and the Talk/Back
buttons. They are used to activate the voice control system. The microphone is
located near the map light in the ceiling. It is directional, and works best if the voice
is coming from the drivers seat.
Press the Talk button on the steering wheel, and in a normal voice say
"testing". The TALK indicator on the screen should momentarily become
green, and the text "Now Recording..." should appear in yellow. In addition,
the Mic Level indicator should move at least to the 6th bar. If the Talk
indicator on the screen does not briefly become green, then check the wiring
from the Talk button to the navigation unit. If there is no "Mic Level"
movement when you speak, then you should check the wire running from the
microphone to the control unit.
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Press the Back button on the steering wheel. This should cause the Cancel
indicator on the screen to momentarily become green. If it does not briefly
change to green, then check the wiring from the steering wheel Back button to
the navigation unit.
Fig. 74: Identifying Mic Level

Solar Angle
This screen is used to graphically display the sun's position as determined by GPS.
The navigation system uses the sun's angle, along with the sunlight sensor to control
the driver/passenger A/C air flow. The heat that must be removed by the A/C unit
varies, depending on the angle of the sun entering the vehicle. This screen is for
factory use only, and should not be adjusted.
The screen shows a circular diagram of the sky oriented in the direction that
the vehicle is pointing. During daylight hours a red dot is shown, representing
the direction and elevation of the sun. The outer circle represents the horizon (0
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degrees elevation). The middle circle is 30 degrees, the center circle is 60

degrees, and the very center is directly overhead (90 degrees).
"Auto" should always be on (yellow).
The "Angle", "Dir", and "Reliability" settings are used by the factory to
simulate the sun's position for debugging this function.
Fig. 75: Identifying Solar Angle

VERSION
This screen displays the current version of the program, and allows the loading of a
new version of the program either from a CD/DVD or from a PC card.
Program Flash is the version of the navigation program in memory.
Program Disc is the version of the program on the DVD.
The Values "IPL", "APL", "DBOOT", and "System uCom" are for factory use.
The value for "Models" should begin with the letters "SDA", and indicates that
the navigation unit is for an ACCORD. If any other letters appear after
"Models", then verify the part number on the underside of the navigation unit,
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and replace the navigation unit if necessary.

"Download" should never be touched unless instructed by the factory.
Touching download overwrites the navigation software version in memory,
with the software version on the DVD.
Fig. 76: Identifying Version

NOTE: If any model number other than SDAX is displayed, replace

the navigation unit with the correct part. The model code
tells the navigation unit what software to load off the DVD.
ERROR MESSAGE TABLE

Screen Error Message Solution
Make sure there is nothing on the rear package tray
Navigation system is
blocking the GOS antenna. If not, move the vehicle
unable to acquire a
to an open space away from tall buildings, trees, etc.
proper GPS signal.
Rear window tinting and after-market devices can
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affect the GPS reception.

Navigation unit door is
Make sure the navigation DVD is installed with the
open or No DVD disc
label side up and the navigation unit door is fully
installed. Please check
snapped closed.
system.
PC card slot door is
Make sure that the sliding door for the PC card is
open. Please check
fully closed.
system.
No DVD disc, please Check that the navigation DVD is installed with the
check system. label side up.
This message will appear briefly when the display
Display temp is too high. temperature is too high, and then the display will
System will shut down turn off until the temperature cools down. The
until display cools down. system will turn back on when the display cools
down.
Outside temperature is The temperature is below -30C and the navigation
low, system will take a ECU has difficulties reading the DVD. The system
while to start up. will start up when the temperate warms up.
Check the DVD source for deep scratches or other
DVD disc reading error damage. Make sure you are using an official Honda
(unformatted), please navigation DVD (white in color). The system cannot
consult your dealer. read other mapping databases or video DVDs. If the
problem persists, see your dealer.
Route has not been
Routing to or from a place (new area) that is not in
completed. Please try
the database. Try planning a different route to or
again from a different
from a different location.
location.
No alternate route found.
No alternate route method was found. The original
Original route will be
route will be used.
guided.
The destination was not found in the database. Try
This destination cannot
another destination nearby, or select the destination
be found in database.
with the joystick.
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FORCED STARTING OF DISPLAY

SCS service connector 07PAZ-0010100
1. Connect the SCS service connector (A) to the navigation service check
connector (B) located behind the navigation unit.
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Fig. 77: Connecting SCS Service Connector To Navigation Service

Connector
3. Check that the system starts up and then changes to the "Navi System Link"
screen.
4. Remove the SCS connector.
NOTE: If the system fails to display the "Navi System Link"

screen, refer to no picture is displayed (see SYMPTOM
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
DVD-ROM REPLACEMENT
NOTE: When the DVD-ROM is re-inserted or replaced, a map match

must be done (see MAP MATCHING ).

2. Push the open button (A) of the navigation unit (B) located in the trunk area.
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Fig. 78: Pushing Open Button Of Navigation Unit

3. Press the EJECT button.

4. Remove the DVD-ROM.
5. Insert the new DVD-ROM.
6. Push the open button. Do not turn the ignition switch OFF, until data is down
loaded to navigation unit.
NOTE: After servicing, the front cover must be closed. If you

start up the navigation system with the front cover
open, the display will indicate. "Navigation unit door is
open or No DVD Disk installed. Please check system".
NAVIGATION UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
NOTE: If the navigation unit is replaced or disconnected, a map

match must be done (see MAP MATCHING ).
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1. Remove the navigation unit from the trunk area.
Fig. 79: Removing Navigation Unit From Trunk Area

2. Remove the navigation unit bracket (B) from the passenger's seat.
3. Remove the bracket from the navigation unit (C).
GPS ANTENNA REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1. Remove the rear shelf (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR

SHELF AREA ).
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2. Remove the GPS antenna (A).
Fig. 80: Removing GPS Antenna

VOICE CONTROL SWITCH REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1. For 4 door, remove the driver's airbag (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG

REPLACEMENT ), then remove the voice control switch (see STEERING
WHEEL DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY ).
For 2 door, remove the voice control switch cover (A) from left side of the
steering wheel.
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Illustration in Fig. 81 shows 2 door models
Fig. 81: Removing Voice Control Switch

2. Remove the two screws (B) from the voice control switch (C), then remove the
voice control switch.
3. Disconnect the voice control switch connector.
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DISPLAY UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
For removal of Display Unit ( See AUDIO-HVAC DISPLAY MODULE

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Openers - Accord
Openers - Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Openers Components

HOOD OPENER CABLE REPLACEMENT

Take care not to scratch the body and related parts.

Front bumper, 2-door (see 2-DOOR )
Front grille, 4-door (see 4-DOOR )
Inner fender (see FRONT INNER FENDER REPLACEMENT )
Kick panel, 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA ), 4-door (see 4-
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2007 Honda Accord
DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA )

2. Remove the bolts (A) then remove the radiator upper brackets (B).
Fig. 2: Removing Radiator Upper Brackets

3. Disconnect the hood opener cable (C) from the hood latch (D) (see HOOD
LATCH REPLACEMENT ).
4. Move the radiator (E) as necessary. Using a clip remover, detach the clips (F),
and remove the grommet (G) from the body, then remove the hood opener
cable from the vehicle. Take care not to bend the cable.
5. Install the cable in the reverse order of removal, and check the clip is damaged
or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace it with new one.
TRUNK LID OPENER CABLE/FUEL FILL DOOR OPENER CABLE
REPLACEMENT
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2-DOOR

1. Remove these items from the left side of the vehicle:

Door sill trim (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - DOOR
AREA )
Side trim panel (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR
SIDE AREA )
Trunk rear trim panel (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION -
TRUNK AREA )
Trunk side trim panel, left side (see TRIM
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TRUNK AREA )
2. Pull the carpet back as necessary.
3. Detach the clip (A) with a clip remover, and release the opener cable (B) from
the clip (C).
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Fig. 3: Detaching Clip & Releasing Opener Cable

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4. Release the fuel fill door/trunk lid opener cable (A) from the clip (B). Remove
the fuel fill door latch (C) by turning it 90, and detach the opener cable
junction box (D) from the body.
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Fig. 4: Releasing Fuel Fill Door/Trunk Lid Opener Cable From Clip
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5. Disconnect the trunk lid opener cable from the trunk lid latch (E) (see TRUNK
LID LATCH REPLACEMENT ).
6. Release the fuel fill door opener cable/trunk lid opener cable from the clips
(G).
7. Remove the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the vehicle. Take
care not to bend or kink the cable.
8. Install the opener cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Route the opener cable (A) beside the floor wire harness clips (B)
correctly.
Align the marks (C) on the cable with the cable clips (D) as shown below.

it with new one.
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Fig. 5: Identifying Align Marks On Cable With Cable Clips (1 Of 2)

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Fig. 6: Identifying Align Marks On Cable With Cable Clips (2 Of 2)

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4-DOOR

1. Remove these items form the left side of the vehicle:

B-pillar lower trim, without side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR-B-

MODELS) ), with side curtain airbags (see 4-DOOR-C-PILLAR -
WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS ('04-06 MODELS) )
Left rear seat side bolster (see 4-DOOR )
Trunk rear trim panel (see 4-DOOR ('03-05 MODELS) )
Trunk side trim panel, left side (see 4-DOOR ('03-05 MODELS) )
2. Pull back the carpet as necessary.

3. Release the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable (A) from the clip (B).
Remove the cushion tape (C).
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Fig. 7: Removing Cushion Tape

4. Remove the fuel fill door latch (A) by turning it 90, and detach the opener
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cable junction box (B) from the body.
Fig. 8: Removing Fuel Fill Door Latch (Without Power Trunk Lid Latch)
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Fig. 9: Removing Fuel Fill Door Latch (With Power Trunk Lid Latch)
5. Disconnect the trunk lid opener cable (C) from the trunk lid latch (D) (see
TRUNK LID LATCH REPLACEMENT ).
6. Using a clip remover, detach clip (E). Release the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door
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opener cable from the clips (F, G).

7. Remove the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the vehicle. Take
care not to bend or kink the cable.
8. Install the opener cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Align the marks (A) on the opener cable (B) with the cable clips (C) as
shown below.
Check the clip is damage or stress-whitening, and if necessary, replace it
with new one.
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Fig. 10: Installing Opener Cable

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HOOD LATCH REPLACEMENT

Front bumper, 2-door (see 2-DOOR )
Front grille, 4-door (see 4-DOOR )
2. Remove the cover (A) from the hood latch (B).
Fig. 11: Removing Cover From Hood Latch

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3. If equipped, disconnect the hood latch switch connector (A).
Fig. 12: Disconnecting Hood Latch Switch Connector

4. Remove the bolts, then remove the hood latch (A) from the body.
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Fig. 13: Removing Hood Latch From Body

5. Disconnect the hood opener cable (B) from the hood latch. Take care not to
bend the cable.
Apply multipurpose grease to each location indicated by the arrows shown
in Fig. 14.
Make sure the hood opener cable is connected properly and hood latch
switch connector is plugged in properly (for some models).
Adjust the hood latch alignment (see step 3 in ADJUSTMENT ).
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Make sure the hood opens properly and locks securely.
Fig. 14: Applying Multipurpose Grease

HOOD RELEASE HANDLE REPLACEMENT
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1. Remove the kick panel, 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA ), 4-door
(see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA ).
2. Remove the bolts, then remove the hood release handle (A).
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Fig. 15: Removing Hood Release Handle

3. Disconnect the hood opener cable (B) from the hood release handle. Take care
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not to bend the cable.

4. Install the hood release handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Make sure the hood opener cable is connected properly.
Make sure the hood opens properly.
TRUNK LID OPENER/FUEL FILL DOOR OPENER REPLACEMENT

1. Using a trim tool, detach the hooks (A) by prying the front side cap (B), then
remove it from the front door sill trim (C), and if equipped, remove the opener
lock cylinder (D).
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Fig. 16: Detaching Hooks Prying Front Side Cap

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2. Remove the bolt (E).
3. Remove the front door sill trim, 2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA ),
4-door (see 4-DOOR - FRONT DOOR SILL AREA ).
4. Remove the screw, then remove the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener (A)
from the front door sill trim (B).
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Fig. 17: Removing Trunk Lid Opener/Fuel Fill Door Opener From Front
Door Sill Trim
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5. Install the opener in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the opener cable is connected properly.
Make sure the trunk lid and fuel fill door open properly and lock securely.
TRUNK LID LATCH REPLACEMENT
1. 4-door: Disconnect the cylinder rod from the lock cylinder (see TRUNK LID
LOCK CYLINDER REPLACEMENT ).
2. Disconnect the trunk lid opener cable (A) and trunk lid latch switch connector
(B). If equipped with a power trunk lid latch, detach the trunk lid latch switch
connector from the trunk lid. Take care not to bend the opener cable.
Fig. 18: Disconnecting Trunk Lid Opener Cable (With Power Trunk Lid
Latch)
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Fig. 19: Disconnecting Trunk Lid Opener Cable (Without Power Trunk
Lid Latch)
3. Remove the bolts from the trunk lid latch (C).

4. Pull the trunk lid latch (A) out, and on 4-door, disconnect the cylinder rod (B)
from the trunk lid latch. Take care not to bend the cylinder rod.
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Fig. 20: Pulling Trunk Lid Latch Out

Make sure the connector is plugged in properly and the opener cable is
connected properly.
Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
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TRUNK LID LOCK CYLINDER REPLACEMENT

4-DOOR
1. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and if equipped, disconnect the cylinder
Fig. 21: Disconnecting Cylinder Rod & Cylinder Switch Connector

2. Remove the bolt securing the lock cylinder (A). Then turn the trunk lid lock
cylinder clockwise, and remove it.
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Fig. 22: Removing Lock Cylinder

3. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly (if
equipped) and the cylinder rod is connected properly.
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Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
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HONDA OWNERS MANUALS
GO TO:
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/RJAAI001_OMANUAL.asp
2007 Honda Accord
2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Keyless/Power Door Locks/Security System - Accord
Keyless/Power Door Locks/Security System - Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Keyless/Power Door Locks/Security System Components (1 Of

2)
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Keyless/Power Door Locks/Security System Components (2 Of

2)
SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
SECURITY ALARM SYSTEM
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The security alarm system is armed automatically after the doors, hood, and trunk
are closed and locked. For the system to arm, the ignition switch must be off, the
key must be removed, and the MICU must receive signals that the doors, hood,
trunk are closed and locked. The alarm can be disarmed at any time by unlocking
the driver's door with the key or pressing the UNLOCK button on the remote
transmitter.
When everything is closed and locked, the only inputs that are grounded, and have
0 volts, are the driver's door lock knob switch (LOCK position), and the integrated
audio-HVAC display module. In other words, all of the other switches are open,
and have about 5 volts with system awake and 1 volts in sleep mode, including the
key cylinder switches. The security indicator in the gauge control module begins to
flash immediately after the vehicle is completely closed and locked, and 15 seconds
later, the security system arms and the security indicator flashes on for a shorter
amount of time than before. If the security indicator does not flash, the system is not
arming. A beep sounds and parking lights flash to confirm the security alarm
system is armed if the LOCK button is pressed a second time within 5 seconds.
If one of the switches is misadjusted or shorted internally, or there is a short in the

circuit, the security system will not arm. As long as the control unit continues to
receive a ground signal (0 volts), it senses that the vehicle is not closed and locked,
and the system will not arm. A switch that is slightly misadjusted can cause the
alarm to sound for no apparent reason. In this case, a significant change in outside
air temperature, the vibration of a passing truck, or someone bumping into the
vehicle could cause the alarm to sound. There is no glass breakage or motion
detector feature.
If anything is opened or improperly unlocked after the system is armed, the control
unit receives a ground signal from that switch, and the 1-5 volts reference drops to 0
volts. If the integrated audio-HVAC display module is disconnected, the input loses
its ground, and the input voltage goes to 1-5 volts. The system sounds the alarm
when any of these occur:
A door or the trunk is forced open

A door is unlocked without using the key or the remote transmitter
The hood is opened (EX, EXL, LX-V6, Canada LX, '06-07 models Canada SE)
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The audio-HVAC display module is disconnected (EX, EXL, LX-V6, '06-07

models USA SE, Canada SE-V6)
The remote panic is operated
When the system sounds the alarm, the horns sound and the exterior lights flash for
2 minutes. The alarm can be stopped at any time by unlocking the driver's door with
the key or by pressing any button on the remote transmitter.
PANIC MODE
The panic mode sounds the alarm in order to attract attention. When the PANIC
button on the remote transmitter is pressed and held for 2 seconds, the alarm sounds
and the exterior lights flash for about 20 seconds.
The panic mode can be cancelled at anytime by pressing any button on the remote
transmitter or by turning the ignition switch ON (II). The panic mode will not
function if the ignition switch is ON (II).
KEYLESS ENTRY SYSTEM
The keyless entry system is integrated with the multiplex integrated control unit.
The MICS receives LOCK, UNLOCK and PANIC signals from the door multiplex
control unit (keyless receiver).
The keyless entry system allows you to lock and unlock the vehicle with the remote
transmitter. When you press the LOCK button, all doors lock. When you press the
UNLOCK button once, only the driver's door unlocks. The other doors will unlock
when you press the button a second time. The doors will not lock with the remote
transmitter if a door is not fully closed, or if the key is in the ignition switch.
If the UNLOCK button is pressed, released, then pressed and held, the windows
will begin to open. The windows stop if the button is released. See power windows
for more information and troubleshooting.
When the switch for the ceiling light is in the center position, it will come on when
the UNLOCK button is pressed. If a door is not opened, the light will go off in
about 30 seconds, and the doors will relock. If the doors are locked with the remote
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transmitter within 30 seconds, the light will go off immediately.

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Fig. 3: Circuit Diagram - Keyless/Power Door Locks/Security System (1 Of 3)

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DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR TEST
DRIVER'S DOOR
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1. Remove the driver's door panel.

2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the actuator.
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3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to table

figure below. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only
momentarily.
Fig. 7: Checking Actuator Operation By Connecting Power & Ground

Chart
4. If the actuator does not operate as specified, replace it.

PASSENGER'S DOOR
1. Remove the passenger's door panel.

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3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to figure

table below. To prevent damage to the actuator, apply battery voltage only
momentarily.

Chart
4. If the actuator does not operate as specified, replace it.

DOOR LOCK KNOB SWITCH TEST
DRIVER'S DOOR

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3. Check for continuity between the terminals.

There should be continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals when
the door lock knob switch is in the LOCK position and no continuity when
the switch is in the UNLOCK position.
the door lock knob switch is in the UNLOCK position and no continuity
when the switch is in the LOCK position.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the door lock actuator.
FRONT PASSENGER'S DOOR (EX, EXL, '06-07 MODELS CANADA SE)
1. Remove the front passenger's door panel.

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3. Check for continuity between the terminals. There should be continuity

between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when the door lock knob switch in the
UNLOCK position and no continuity when the switch is in the LOCK position.
REAR DOOR (EX, EXL, '06-07 MODELS CANADA SE)
1. Remove the left or right rear door panel (see REAR DOOR PANEL
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between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals when the door lock knob switch is
UNLOCK position and no continuity when the switch is in the LOCK position.
DOOR KEY CYLINDER SWITCH TEST

2. Disconnect the 3P connector from the key cylinder switch.
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Fig. 13: Disconnecting 3P Connector From Key Cylinder Switch

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the door key cylinder switch is in LOCK position.
There should be no continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals
when the door key cylinder switch is in the neutral or UNLOCK position.
the door key cylinder switch is in UNLOCK position.
There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals
when the door key cylinder switch is in the neutral or LOCK position.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the door key cylinder assembly.
CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST
1. Before testing the keyless entry/security control functions, troubleshoot the

multiplex integrated control system. (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN
Multiplex Integrated Control Unit

2. Remove the left kick panel.
2-door (see 2-DOOR - DOOR SILL AREA )
3. Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors.
NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals.
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Fig. 14: Disconnecting Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Connectors

contact.
recheck the system.
5. With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connectors.
system.
If the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.
CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (CONNECTORS

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DISCONNECTED)
Possible cause if
Test: Desired
Cavity Wire Test condition result is not
result
obtained
Check for Poor ground
continuity to (G501,
Under all
H9 BLK ground: G601)
conditions
There should An open in
be continuity. the wire
Poor ground
Connect the F5 Check trunk (G701)

terminal to the opener Faulty trunk
F5 YEL/GRN battery positive operation: opener
terminal Trunk lid solenoid
momentarily. should open. An open in
the wire
Connect the Check
battery positive actuator Faulty
K2 YEL/GRN
terminal to operation: driver's door
K12 (K2) The driver's lock
terminal, and door lock actuator
K2 (K12) actuator An open in
K12 YEL/BLK
terminal to H9 should lock the wire
terminal. (unlock).
Check
Connect the actuator
N7 YEL/BLK battery positive operation: Faulty front
passenger's
terminal to N7 The front
door lock
(N9) terminal, passenger's
actuator
and N9 (N7) door lock
terminal to H9 actuator An open in
N9 YEL the wire
terminal. should lock
(unlock).
Check
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Connect the actuator

E2 YEL/BLK battery positive operation: Faulty left
rear door
terminal to E2 The left rear
lock
(E8) terminal, door lock
actuator
E8 YEL and E8 (E2) actuator
terminal to H9 should lock An open in
terminal. (unlock). the wire
Check
Connect the
actuator Faulty right
H3 YEL/BLK battery positive
operation: rear door
terminal to H3
The right rear lock
(H10) terminal,
door lock actuator
and H10 (H3)
actuator An open in
H10 YEL terminal to H9
should lock the wire
terminal.
(unlock).
6. Reconnect all connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box.

7. Turn ignition switch to ON (II) to keep the system awake and make these input
tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box.
system.
CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (CONNECTORS RECONNECTED

- 1 OF 2)
Test: Possible cause if
Test
Cavity Wire Desired result is not
condition
result obtained
Front Check for Poor ground

passenger's voltage to (G503)
door lock ground: Faulty front
knob switch There passenger's
unlocked should be door lock
less than 1 knob switch
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V. An open in
the wire
Check for Faulty front
Front
(2) BRN/WHT passenger's voltage to passenger's
Q8
ground: door lock
door lock
There knob switch
knob switch
should be 5 Short to
locked
V or more. ground
Poor ground
Check for (G503)
Front voltage to
passenger's ground: Faulty front
door lock There passenger's
switch should be door lock
unlocked less than 1 switch
V. An open in
P9 PNK/BLU
the wire
Front
voltage to passenger's
passenger's
ground: door lock
door lock
There switch
switch in
neutral
V or more. ground
Poor ground
Check for (G503)
voltage to
Front Faulty front
ground:
passenger's passenger's
There
door lock door lock
should be
P25 PNK/BLK switch locked switch
less than 1
V. An open in
the wire
Front Check for Faulty front

passenger's voltage to passenger's
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door lock ground: door lock

switch in There switch
neutral should be 5 Short to
V or more. ground
Poor ground
Check for (G501,
voltage to G601)
Left rear door
ground: Faulty left
lock knob
There rear door
switch
should be lock knob
unlocked
less than 1 switch
(2) BLK/WHT V. An open in
Q2
the wire
Check for Faulty left
voltage to rear door
Left rear door
ground: lock knob
lock knob
There switch
switch locked
V or more. ground
Poor ground
Check for (G602)
voltage to
Right rear Faulty right
ground:
door lock rear door
There
knob switch lock knob
should be
unlocked switch
less than 1
(2) V. An open in
Q3 BLK/RED
the wire
Check for Faulty right
Right rear voltage to rear door
door lock ground: lock knob
knob switch There switch
locked should be 5 Short to
V or more. ground
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Check for Poor ground

voltage to (G701)
Trunk key
ground: Faulty trunk
cylinder
There key cylinder
switch
should be switch
unlocked
less than 1 An open in
(1) GRY/BLU V.
P11 the wire
Check for
Faulty trunk
Trunk key voltage to
key cylinder
cylinder ground:
switch
switch in There
neutral should be 5 Short to
V or more. ground
(1) with security ('03-05 models)
(2) EX, EXL,'06 model Canada SE
CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (CONNECTORS RECONNECTED

- 1 OF 2)
Test
Cavity Wire Desired result is not
condition
result obtained
Poor ground
(G504)
Check for
Faulty
voltage to
connections
ground:
Under all at the audio
Q1 RED/BLU There
conditions unit
should be
Faulty audio
less than 1
V. unit
An open in
the wire
Poor ground
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Check for (G501,

voltage to G601)
Ignition key
ground: Faulty
inserted into
There ignition key
the ignition
should be switch
switch.
P13 RED/WHT V. the wire
Check for
Faulty
Ignition key voltage to
ignition key
removed from ground:
switch
the ignition There
switch. should be 5 Short to
V or more. ground
Check for
voltage to Faulty
ground: driver's door
Driver's door
There switch
open
should be An open in
less than 1 the wire
E15 GRN V.
Check for
Faulty
voltage to
driver's door
Driver's door ground:
switch
closed There
V or more. ground
Check for
voltage to Faulty front
Front ground: passenger's
passenger's There door switch
H12 LT GRN/RED door open should be An open in
V.

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voltage to passenger's
Front ground: door switch
passenger's There Short to
door closed should be 5 ground
V or more.
Check for
voltage to Faulty left
ground: rear door
Left rear door
There switch
open
E14 GRN/YEL V.
Check for
Faulty left
voltage to
rear door
Left rear door ground:
switch
closed There
V or more. ground
Check for
voltage to Faulty right
ground: rear door
Right rear
There switch
door open
H13 GRN/WHT V.
Check for
Faulty right
voltage to
rear door
Right rear ground:
switch
door closed There
V or more. ground
Check for
voltage to Poor ground
ground: (G701)
Trunk lid There Faulty trunk
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open should be latch switch

V. the wire
Check for
P24 BLU/BLK voltage to Faulty trunk
Trunk lid ground: latch switch
closed There Short to
should be 5 ground
V or more.
Door Multiplex Control Unit
8. Remove the driver's power window switch panel (see DOOR PANEL
9. Disconnect the 23P connector from the power window master switch.
Fig. 15: Disconnecting 23P Connector From Power Window Master

Switch
contact.
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recheck the system.
11. Reconnect the connector to the door multiplex control unit, and make these
input tests at the connectors.
system.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Test:
Possible cause
Test
Cavity Wire Desired
if result is not
condition
result
obtained
Poor
ground
Check for (G501)
Driver's door voltage to Faulty
lock knob ground: driver's
switch There should door lock
unlocked be less than 1 knob
V. switch
7 WHT/BLK An open in
the wire
Faulty
Check for
driver's
voltage to
Driver's door door lock
ground:
lock knob knob
There should
switch locked switch
be 5 V or
Short to
more.
ground
Poor
ground
Check for (G501)
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voltage to Faulty
ground: driver's
Driver's door There should door lock
lock knob be less than 1 knob
switch locked V. switch
An open in
the wire
22 YEL/RED
Faulty
Check for
driver's
Driver's door voltage to
door lock
lock knob ground:
knob
switch There should
switch
unlocked be 5 V or
more. Short to
ground
Check for
key cylinder ground:
switch in There should Faulty
UNLOCK be less than 1 driver's
V. door key
Check for cylinder
Driver's door voltage to switch
key cylinder ground: Poor
21 WHT
switch in There should ground
neutral be 5 V or (G501)
more. An open in
Check for the wire
Driver's door voltage to Short to
key cylinder ground: ground
switch in There should
LOCK be 5 V or
more.
Check for
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key cylinder
ground:
switch in
There should
LOCK be less than 1 Faulty
V. driver's
Check for door key
Driver's door voltage to cylinder
key cylinder ground: switch
switch in There should Poor
8 WHT/RED
neutral be 5 V or ground
more. (G501)
Check for An open in
Driver's door voltage to the wire
key cylinder ground: Short to
switch in There should ground
UNLOCK be 5 V or
more.
12. If all the input tests prove OK, and no DTCs were found during MICU
troubleshooting (B-CAN system diagnosis test mode A), go to the B-CAN
system input and output index. If multiple failures are found on more than one
control unit, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box (includes the MICU). If
input failures are related to a particular control unit, replace that control unit.
DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC INDEX
DTC CHART
DTC Description
DTC B1026: Passenger's Door Lock Passenger's Door Lock Switch Signal
Switch Signal Error Error
DTC B1027: Trunk Key Cylinder Trunk Key Cylinder Switch Signal
DTC B1127: Driver's Door Key Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch
Cylinder Switch Signal Error Signal Error
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DTC B1128: Driver's Door Lock Driver's Door Lock Switch Signal
DTC B1129: Driver's Door Lock Driver's Door Lock Knob Switch
Knob Switch Signal Error Signal Error
DTC B1026: PASSENGER'S DOOR LOCK SWITCH SIGNAL ERROR

3. Operate the passenger's door lock switch in the LOCK and UNLOCK positions
for 2 seconds.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure. The passenger's door lock system is OK at this
time. Check pinfits and connections.
5. With the door lock in UNLOCK position, select SECURITY from the HDS
6. Check the ON/OFF information of the Front Psnger's Door Lock Sw. (LOCK)
and Front Psnger's Door Lock Sw. (UNLOCK) in the DATA LIST.
Are both information indicators OFF?

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 9.
7. Make sure the ON/OFF information of the Front Psnger's Door Lock Sw.
(LOCK) and Front Psnger's Door Lock Sw. (UNLOCK) are changed when the
passenger's door lock switch is in the LOCK and UNLOCK positions.
Does the information show the correct ON and OFF indications when the
door lock switch in the LOCK and UNLOCK positions?
YES - Faulty MICU; replace it.

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NO - Go to step 8.
8. Check for a short between the door lock switch LOCK and UNLOCK wires.
Are the wire harnesses OK?
YES - Faulty passenger's door lock switch; replace it.

NO - A short in the wire, repair and recheck.
9. Remove the passenger's inner handle (see DOOR PANEL
10. Disconnect the 3P connector from the passenger's door lock switch.
11. Check the ON/OFF information of the Front Psnger's Door Lock Sw. (LOCK)
and Front Psnger's Door Lock Sw. (UNLOCK) in the DATA LIST.
YES - Faulty passenger's door lock switch; replace it.

NO - Go to step 12.
12. Check for a short in the wire between the MICU and passenger's door lock
switch at the security alarm/keyless door lock system control unit input test
(see CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST ).

DTC B1027: TRUNK KEY CYLINDER SWITCH SIGNAL ERROR

3. Operate the trunk key cylinder switch for 2 seconds.
4. Check the DTCs using the HDS.
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YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure. The trunk key cylinder system is OK at this
time.
5. With the trunk key cylinder switch in the off (neutral) position, select the
TEST MODE MENU from the HDS and enter the DATA LIST.
6. Check the ON/OFF information of the Trunk Key Cylinder Switch (UNLOCK)
in the DATA LIST.
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 9.
7. Make sure the ON/OFF information of the Trunk Key Cylinder Switch
(UNLOCK) are changed when the trunk key cylinder switch is turned to
UNLOCK position with the key.
Does the information show ON when the trunk key cylinder switch is
turned to UNLOCK position, and show OFF when the trunk key cylinder
switch is returned to the off (neutral) position?
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Check for an open in the wire between the MICU and trunk key cylinder
switch.
YES - Faulty trunk key cylinder switch; replace it.

NO - An open in the wire, repair and recheck.
9. Disconnect the 3P connector from the trunk key cylinder switch.
10. Check the ON/OFF information of the Trunk Key Cylinder Switch (UNLOCK)
in the DATA LIST.
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YES - Faulty trunk key cylinder switch; replace it.

NO - Go to step 11.
11. Check for a short in the wire between the MICU and trunk key cylinder switch.

DTC B1127: DRIVER'S DOOR KEY CYLINDER SWITCH SIGNAL ERROR

3. Operate the driver's door key cylinder in the LOCK and UNLOCK positions
for 2 seconds.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure. The driver's door key cylinder system is OK at
this time. Check pinfits and connections.
5. With no driver's door key cylinder operation, select SECURITY from the HDS,
6. Check the ON/OFF information of the Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch
(LOCK) and Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch (UNLOCK) in the DATA
LIST.
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 10.
7. Turn the driver's door key cylinder to the LOCK and UNLOCK positions with
the ignition key and check the ON/OFF information of the Driver's Door Key
Cylinder Switch (LOCK) and Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch (UNLOCK)
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in the DATA LIST.

Is the Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch (LOCK) (Driver's Door Key
Cylinder Switch (UNLOCK)) information indicator ON when the key
cylinder is in the LOCK (UNLOCK) position, and OFF when the key is
returned to the neutral position?
YES - Faulty door multiplex control unit; replace the power window
master switch.
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Disconnect the driver's door key cylinder switch 3P connector.
9. Check for continuity between the No. 3 (LOCK) and No. 1 (UNLOCK)
terminals of the driver's door key cylinder switch 3P connector and the No. 8
(LOCK) and No. 21 (UNLOCK) terminals of the power window master switch
23P connector.
Fig. 16: Checking For Continuity Between No.3 & No.1 Terminals Of
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Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch Connector And No.8 & No.21
Terminals Of Power Window Master Switch Connector
YES - Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch.

NO - Repair an open in the WHT/RED (LOCK) or WHT (UNLOCK)
wire.
10. Disconnect the driver's door key cylinder switch 3P connector.
11. Check the ON/OFF information of the Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch
(LOCK) and Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch (UNLOCK) in the DATA
LIST.
YES - Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch.

NO - Go to step 12.
terminals of the driver's door key cylinder switch 3P connector and body
ground.
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Driver's Door Key Cylinder Switch And Body Ground
YES - Repair a short in the WHT/RED (LOCK) or WHT (UNLOCK)

wire.
NO - Faulty door multiplex control unit; replace the power window master
switch.
DTC B1128: DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK SWITCH SIGNAL ERROR
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3. Operate the driver's door lock switch in the LOCK and UNLOCK positions for
2 seconds.

YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure. The driver's door lock switch system is OK at
this time. Check pinfits and connections.
5. With no driver's door lock switch operation, select SECURITY from the HDS,
6. Check the ON/OFF information of the Driver's Door Lock Switch (LOCK) and
Driver's Door Lock Switch (UNLOCK) in the DATA LIST.

YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Check the door lock switch. If the driver's door lock switch is OK,
faulty door multiplex control unit; replace the power window master
switch.
7. Push the driver's door lock switch in LOCK and UNLOCK positions, and
check the ON/OFF information of the Driver's Door Lock Switch (LOCK) and
Driver's Door Lock Switch (UNLOCK) in the DATA LIST.
Is the Driver's Door Lock Switch (LOCK) (Driver's Door Lock Switch
(UNLOCK)) information indicator ON when the door lock switch is
pushed in each switch position, and OFF when the door lock switch is
released?
YES - Substitute a known-good power window master switch. If the code

is still present, replace the MICU.
NO - Faulty door multiplex control unit; replace the power window master
switch.
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DTC B1129: DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK KNOB SWITCH SIGNAL ERROR

3. Operate the driver's door lock knob switch in the LOCK and UNLOCK
positions for 2 seconds.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Intermittent failure. The driver's door lock knob switch system is OK
at this time. Check pinfits and connections.
5. Select SECURITY from the HDS, and enter the DATA LIST.
Check the ON/OFF information of the Driver's Door Lock knob Switch
(LOCK) and Driver's Door Lock knob Switch (UNLOCK) in the DATA LIST.
Is the Driver's Door Lock knob Switch (LOCK) information indicator ON

and Driver's Door Lock knob Switch (UNLOCK) information indicator
OFF with the door lock knob switch in LOCK position, and is the Driver's
Door Lock knob Switch (LOCK) information indicator OFF and Driver's
Door Lock knob Switch (UNLOCK) information indicator ON with the
door lock knob switch in UNLOCK position?
YES - Substitute a known-good power window master switch. If the code

is still present, replace the MICU.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Disconnect the driver's door lock knob switch 3P connector.
7. Check the ON/OFF information of the Driver's Door Lock knob Switch
(LOCK) and Driver's Door Lock knob Switch (UNLOCK) in the DATA LIST.
YES - Faulty driver's door lock knob switch.

NO - Go to step 8.
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terminals of the driver's door lock knob switch 3P connector and body ground.
Driver's Door Lock Knob Switch And Body Ground
YES - Repair a short in the YEL/RED (LOCK) or WHT/BLK (UNLOCK)

wire.
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NO - Go to driver's door lock knob switch test (see DOOR LOCK

KNOB SWITCH TEST ). If the driver's door lock knob switch is OK,
the door multiplex control unit is faulty; replace the power window master
switch.
TRIPPED SENSOR HISTORY
The security system stores information on the last tripped sensor if the security
system has been violated.
The information can be retrieved using the HDS.
To retrieve the last tripped sensor data:
1. Select HISTORY DATA from the security system test mode menu.
2. Select CURRENT DATA.
3. Confirm that the VIN matches the Vehicle then press the enter button.
4. Scroll through the data list.
Sensors that were violated will indicate DETECT.
Sensors that were not violated will indicate NONE.
5. Inspect the DETECT circuit for:

Misadjusted or damaged switch.
Loose or corroded connections.
Intermittent short to ground.
TRUNK LID OPENER SOLENOID TEST
1. Disconnect the 3P connector from the trunk latch switch/trunk lid opener
solenoid.
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Fig. 19: Disconnecting 3P Connector

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2. Check trunk lid opener solenoid operation by connecting power and ground
according to table graphic below. To prevent damage to the trunk lid opener
solenoid, apply battery voltage only momentarily.
Fig. 20: Checking Trunk Lid Opener Solenoid Operation By Connecting

Power And Ground Chart
3. If the trunk lid opener solenoid does not work as specified, replace it.
TRUNK KEY CYLINDER SWITCH TEST
4-DOOR EX, EXL, LX-V6, '06-07 MODELS CANADA SE
1. Remove the trunk lid trim (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION -

TRUNK LID ).
2. Disconnect the 3P connector from the key cylinder switch.
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Fig. 21: Disconnecting 3P Connector From Key Cylinder Switch

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between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals when the trunk key cylinder switch is in
UNLOCK position. There should be no continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3
terminals when the trunk key cylinder switch is in the released (neutral)
position.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the trunk key cylinder switch.
DOOR LOCK SWITCH TEST
PASSENGER'S DOOR LOCK SWITCH
1. Remove the front passenger's switch panel.

2. Disconnect the 10P connector from the front passenger's power window
switch.
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Fig. 22: Disconnecting 10P Connector From Front Passenger's Power

Window Switch
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the door lock switch is in LOCK position. There should be no continuity
between the No. 2 and No. 9 terminals when the door lock switch is in the
neutral position.
the door lock switch is in UNLOCK position. There should be no
continuity between the No. 1 and No. 9 terminals when the door lock
switch is in the neutral position.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the door lock switch.
HOOD SWITCH TEST
EX, EXL, LX-V6, CANADA LX, '06-07 MODELS CANADA SE
1. Open the hood.

2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the hood switch.
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Fig. 23: Disconnecting 2P Connector From Hood Switch

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between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when the hood is opened (lever
released). There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals
when the hood is closed (lever pushed down).
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the hood switch.
TRANSMITTER TEST
NOTE: If the doors unlock or lock with the transmitter, but the
LED on the transmitter does not come on, the LED is
faulty; replace the transmitter.
If any door is open, you cannot lock the doors with the
transmitter.
If you unlocked the doors with the transmitter, but do
not open any of the doors within 30 seconds, the doors
relock automatically.
The doors do not lock or unlock with the transmitter if
the ignition key is inserted in the ignition switch.
1. Press the lock or unlock button five or six times to reset the transmitter.
If the locks work, the transmitter is OK.
If the locks don't work, go to step 2.
2. Open the transmitter and check for water damage.

If you find any water damage, replace the transmitter.
If there is no water damage, go to step 3.
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Fig. 24: Opening Transmitter To Check For Water Damage

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3. Replace the transmitter battery (A) with a new one, and try to lock and unlock
the doors with the transmitter by pressing the lock or unlock button five or six
times.
If the doors lock and unlock, the transmitter is OK.
If the doors don't lock and unlock, go to step 4.
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Fig. 25: Replacing Transmitter Battery

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4. Reprogram and register the transmitter, then try to lock and unlock the doors.
If the doors lock and unlock, the transmitter is OK.
If the doors don't lock and unlock, try and program to another vehicle. If
still not operating, replace the transmitter.
TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING
Storing transmitter codes:
The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored into the keyless receiver unit
memory. (If a fourth code is stored, the code which was input first will be erased.)
NOTE: It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps.

Make sure the doors, the hood and the tailgate are closed.

2. Within 1 to 4 sec, press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the
transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver in the power window master switch.
3. Within 1 to 4 sec, turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Within 1 to 4 sec, turn the ignition switch ON (II).
7. Within 1 to 4 sec, turn the ignition switch ON (II).
10. Within 4 sec, turn the ignition switch ON (II).
12. Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators within 1 to 4 sec,
then push the transmitter lock or unlock button again, or the code will not be
stored.
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13. Within 10 sec, aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes
you want to store at the keyless receiver, and press the transmitter lock or
unlock buttons.
Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each
transmitter code is stored.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and pull out the key.
15. Confirm proper operation with the transmitters.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Power Mirrors - Accord
Power Mirrors - Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Power Mirrors Components Location

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 2: Power Mirrors Circuit Diagram

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FUNCTION TEST
1. Remove the driver's door switch trim.

NOTE: The illustration below shows 4-door.
Fig. 3: Removing Driver's Door Switch Trim (4-Door)

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2. Disconnect the 13P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B), and
inspect the terminals. If OK, go to step 3.
3. Choose the appropriate test based on the symptom:
Both mirrors don't work, go to step 4.
Left mirror doesn't work, go to step 6.
Right mirror doesn't work, go to step 7.
Defogger doesn't work (Canada), go to step 8.
Both mirrors
4. Check for voltage between the No. 6 terminal and body ground with the
If there is no battery voltage, check for:

- Blown No. 30 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

- An open in the BLK/YEL wire.
If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 3 terminal and body ground.
There should be continuity.
If there is no continuity, check for:

- An open in the BLK wire.
- Poor ground (G501, G601).
If there is continuity, check both mirrors individually as described in steps
6&7.
Left mirror
6. Connect the No. 6 terminal to the No. 9 terminal, and the No. 2 (or No. 10)
terminal to the No. 3 terminal with jumper wires. The left mirror should tilt
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down (or swing left) with the ignition switch ON (II).

If the mirror does not tilt down (or does not swing left), check for an open
in the BLU/WHT (or GRN/WHT) wire between the left mirror and the
13P connector. If the wire is OK, check the left mirror actuator.
If the mirror neither tilts down nor swings left, repair the BLU/BLK wire.
If the mirror works properly, check the mirror switch.
Right mirror
7. Connect the No. 6 terminal to the No. 7 terminal, and the No. 1 (or No. 10)
terminal to the No. 3 terminal with jumper wires. The right mirror should tilt
down (or swing left) with the ignition switch ON (II).
If the mirror does not tilt down (or does not swing left), check for an open
in the WHT/RED (or GRN/WHT) wire between the right mirror and the
13P connector.
If the wire is OK, check the right mirror actuator.

If the mirror neither tilts down nor swings left, repair the RED/YEL wire.
If the mirror works properly, check the mirror switch.
Defogger (Canada)
8. Connect the No. 12 and No. 11 terminals with a jumper wire, and check for
voltage between the No. 4 terminal of the mirror connectors and body ground.
There should be battery voltage and both mirrors should warm up with the
If there is no voltage or neither warms up, check for:
- An open in the BLK/YEL or ORN wire.

- Blown No. 30 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
If only one fails to warm up, check:
- Its defogger.
- Poor ground (G501, G601).
If both warm up, check the defogger switch.
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POWER MIRROR SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT

2. Disconnect the 13P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B).
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Fig. 4: Disconnecting 13P Connector From Power Mirror Switch (4-Door)

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to the tables shown below.
Fig. 5: Checking Continuity Between Terminals In Each Switch Position

(Mirror Switch)
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(Defogger Switch)
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the power mirror switch.

POWER MIRROR ACTUATOR TEST
1. Remove the door panel.

2. Disconnect the 8P connector (A) from the power mirror actuator (B).
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Fig. 7: Disconnecting 8P Connector From Power Mirror Actuator (4-

Door)
3. Check actuator operation by connecting power and ground according to the

table shown below.
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4. If the mirror fails to work properly, replace the mirror actuator.
Defogger Test (Canada)

5. Check for continuity between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals of the 8P
connector. There should be continuity with the defogger switch ON. If there is
no continuity, check for an open circuit.
POWER MIRROR ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the power mirror (see POWER MIRROR/MANUAL MIRROR

REPLACEMENT ).
2. Disconnect the 8P connector.
3. Carefully remove the mirror holder from the mirror housing. Gently pull it out
by hand (see MIRROR HOUSING COVER REPLACEMENT ).
4. Remove the cover (A), then remove the two screws from the mirror connector
(B).
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Fig. 9: Removing Power Mirror Cover & Screws From Mirror Connector
5. Record the terminal locations and wire colors.

6. Cut the wire harness with the wire cutter.
7. Remove the three screws, and separate the mirror housing (A) from the bracket
(B).
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Fig. 10: Separating Mirror Housing From Bracket

8. Remove the three screws and separate the actuator (A) from the housing (B).
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Fig. 11: Separating Actuator From Housing

9. Route the wire harness (A) of the new actuator (B) through the hole in the
bracket (C).
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Fig. 12: Routing Wire Harness Of New Actuator Through Hole In Bracket
10. Install the new actuator in the reverse order of removal.
11. Insert the terminals into the connector in the original arrangement as shown
below.
Terminal View:
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Fig. 13: Inserting Terminals Into Connector

12. Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly. Be careful not to break the
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mirror holder when reinstalling it to the actuator.

13. Reinstall the mirror assembly to the door.
14. Operate the power mirror to ensure smooth operation.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Power Moonroof - Accord
Power Moonroof - Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Moonroof Components Location (4-Door)

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Fig. 2: Identifying Moonroof Components Location (2-Door)

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 3: Moonroof Circuit Diagram (4-Door)

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Fig. 4: Moonroof Circuit Diagram (2-Door)

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LIMIT SWITCH TEST

4-DOOR

2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the moonroof limit switch (B).
Fig. 5: Disconnecting 4P Connector From Moonroof Limit Switch

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to the table shown below.
Fig. 6: Checking Continuity Between Terminals In Switch Position Table

4. If the continuity is not as specified, adjust the moonroof limit switch (see
LIMIT SWITCH ADJUSTMENT ). If the continuity is still not as specified,
replace the moonroof limit switch.
LIMIT SWITCH REPLACEMENT
4-DOOR

2. Mark the position of the moonroof limit switch (A) on the moonroof frame (B).
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Fig. 7: Marking Position Of Moonroof Limit Switch On Moonroof Frame

3. Disconnect the 4P connector (C) from the moonroof limit switch.

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4. Remove the two mounting bolts (D).

5. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal.
6. Adjust the moonroof limit switch as needed (see LIMIT SWITCH
ADJUSTMENT ).
SWITCH TEST
NOTE: The moonroof can still be operated for about 10 minutes

after the ignition switch is turned from the "II" to the "I" or
"0" positions, as long as none of the doors are opened.
This provides a convenience to parked occupants while
offering a degree of security against unwanted or
accidental moonroof operation.
1. Carefully push out the moonroof switch (A) from behind the dashboard lower
cover, then disconnect the 6P connector (B) from the switch.
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Fig. 8: Disconnecting 6P Connector From Switch

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Table
3. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulb (C) or the switch.
MOTOR TEST
4-DOOR

2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the moonroof motor.
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Fig. 10: Disconnecting 2P Connector From Moonroof Motor

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3. Check the motor by connecting power and ground according to the table shown
below.
Fig. 11: Checking Motor Connecting Power And Ground Table

4. If the motor does not run, replace it.
NOTE: See closing force check (see CLOSING FORCE AND

OPENING DRAG CHECK ) for motor clutch test.
MOONROOF CALIBRATION
2-DOOR
NOTE: Moonroof calibration is required if any of the conditions

listed below occur:
The ignition switch is turned OFF while operating the moonroof (pressing the
open/close switch). As a countermeasure, if the ignition switch is returned to
the ON (II) position within 10 minutes, and moonroof operation is continued,
calibration will not necessary.
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NOTE: If a door is opened during the 10 minutes period, the

calibration will be required.
The moonroof is manually operated using the moonroof wrench with the
battery dead or disconnected.
The moonroof motor is replaced with a new one.
The moonroof motor is removed from the moonroof assembly and operated
before it is reinstalled.
MOONROOF GLASS IS POSITIONED IN THE OPEN POSITION (OR PARTIALLY OPEN)
1. Press the moonroof OPEN switch until the moonroof stops in its fully open
position.
2. Release the moonroof OPEN switch.
3. Press the moonroof OPEN switch again for about 13 seconds.
NOTE: Keep pressing the switch even through the moonroof

motor continues to function.
4. Calibration is complete. The moonroof will automatically move to the regular

preset fully open position and come to stop.
MOONROOF GLASS IS POSITIONED IN THE TILT POSITION
1. Press the moonroof OPEN switch until the moonroof glass stops in its fully
open position.
3. Press the moonroof OPEN switch for about 13 seconds.
NOTE: Keep pressing the switch even through the moonroof

glass will repeat an inching behavior (moving 40 mm,
then stopping for 0.4 seconds)
4. Calibration is complete. The moonroof will automatically move to the regular

preset fully open position and come to stop.
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MOONROOF MOTOR IS REPLACED
1. Open the moonroof to its fully open position manually with the moonroof
wrench.
2. Remove the moonroof motor (see MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).
NOTE: If you have accidentally moved the moonroof glass

after the removal of the moonroof motor, return the
moonroof to its fully open position.
3. Install the new moonroof motor (see MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).

4. Perform the moonroof OPEN position calibration procedure.
5. Within 5 seconds after completion of the moonroof calibration, press the
moonroof OPEN switch again. After 3 seconds the moonroof glass will move
toward the fully closed position.
NOTE: The moonroof glass will move toward the fully closed
position even though the open switch is being pressed.
Allow it to move until it reaches the fully closed
position.
NOTE: Step 5 is only applicable if a new motor is installed, and

must not be applied to the original motor. The original
motor memorized the initial position data and does not
require recalibration.
MOONROOF CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST

2-DOOR

2. Disconnect the 10P connector (A) from the moonroof control unit (B).
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Fig. 12: Disconnecting 10P Connector From Moonroof Control Unit

contact.
recheck the system.
4. Reconnect the connector, and make these input tests at the connector.
system.
MOONROOF CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (RECONNECT

CONNECTOR)
Cavity Wire Test condition Desired result is not
result obtained
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Blown No.
28 (20 A)
fuse in the
Check for under-dash
voltage to fuse/relay
Under all ground: box
6 GRN
conditions There should Faulty
be battery under-dash
voltage. fuse/relay
box
An open in
the wire
Check for
Poor ground
voltage to
(G501,
Under all ground:
2 BLK G601)
conditions There should
be less than 1 An open in
V. the wire
5. Disconnect the connector from the moonroof control unit, and make these
input tests at the connector
system.
If all the inputs prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it.
MOONROOF CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (DISCONNECT

CONNECTOR)
Possible cause
Test Test: Desired
Cavity Wire if result is not
Condition Result
obtained
Check for
continuity
between the
No. 3 terminal
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and the
multiplex
integrated
Under all An open in the
3 GRN/BLK control unit
conditions wire
P12 terminal:
There should
be continuity.
Check for
continuity Faulty
Moonroof between the moonroof
4 GRN/ORN switch in No. 3 and No. switch
TILT position 4 terminals: An open in
There should the wire
be continuity.
Check for
continuity Faulty
Moonroof
between the moonroof
switch in
5 GRY/BLU No. 3 and No. switch
OPEN
5 terminals: An open in
position
be continuity.
Check for
continuity Faulty
Moonroof
between the moonroof
switch in
10 LT GRN/BLK No. 3 and No. switch
CLOSE
10 terminals: An open in
position
be continuity.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Power Seats - Accord (V6)
Power Seats - Accord (V6)

8-WAY ADJUSTABLE:
Fig. 1: Locating 8-Way Adjustable Power Seat Components Position

4-WAY ADJUSTABLE:
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Fig. 2: Locating 4-Way Adjustable Power Seat Components Position

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
4-WAY ADJUSTABLE
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Fig. 3: 4-Way Adjustable Power Seat Circuit Diagram

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SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT
FRONT PASSENGER'S POWER SEAT (4-WAY ADJUSTABLE)
1. Remove the power seat adjustment switch knobs (A).
Fig. 4: Identifying Power Seat Adjustment Switch Knobs (4-Way

Adjustable)
2. Remove the recline cover from the front passenger's power seat.
'03 model (see '03 MODEL 4-DOOR )
'04-07 models (see '04-07 MODELS 4-DOOR )
3. Remove the two screws and the power seat switch (B).
4. Disconnect the 12P connector from the power seat adjustment switch (A).
5. Reinstall the adjustment switch knobs to the switch.
to Fig. 5 .
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(4-Way Adjustable)
7. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.

MOTOR TEST
FRONT PASSENGER'S 4-WAY ADJUSTABLE POWER SEAT
1. Remove the front passenger's seat (see FRONT SEAT

2. Disconnect the 12P connector (A) from the power seat adjustment switch.
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Fig. 6: Disconnecting 12P Connector From Power Seat Adjustment Switch

(4-Way Adjustable)
3. Test each motor by applying battery voltage and body ground to the terminals.
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Fig. 7: Applying Battery Voltage & Body Ground To Terminals Chart

(Slide Motor)
Fig. 8: Applying Battery Voltage & Body Ground To Terminals Chart

(Recline Motor)
4. If the motor does not run or fails to run smoothly, check for an open in the
passenger's seat wire harness between the 12P connector and each motor
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connector. If the harness is OK, replace the motor (see FRONT SEAT
DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY - 4-WAY POWER ).
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Power Seats - Accord
Power Seats - Accord

8-WAY ADJUSTABLE:
Fig. 1: Locating Power Seats Components (8-Way Adjustable)

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2-WAY ADJUSTABLE:
Fig. 2: Locating Power Seats Components (2-Way Adjustable)

CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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8-WAY ADJUSTABLE
Fig. 3: Power Seats Circuit Diagram (8-Way Adjustable)

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2-WAY ADJUSTABLE
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Fig. 4: Power Seats Circuit Diagram (2-Way Adjustable)

POWER SEAT ADJUSTMENT SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT
DRIVER'S POWER SEAT (2-WAY ADJUSTABLE)
1. Remove the recline cover (see FRONT SEAT

DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY - 2-WAY POWER ) from the driver's
power seat, then remove the two screws and the power seat adjustment switch.
2. Disconnect the 5P connector from the power seat adjustment switch (A).

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DRIVER'S POWER SEAT (8-WAY ADJUSTABLE)
1. Remove the power seat adjustment switch knobs (A) and recline cover (see
FRONT SEAT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY - 8-WAY POWER ) from
the driver's power seat, then remove the two screws and the power seat switch.
Fig. 7: Removing Power Seat Adjustment Switch Knobs And Recline

Cover
2. Disconnect the 12P connector from the power seat adjustment switch (B).
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3. Reinstall the adjustment switch knobs to the switch.

Fig. 8: Checking Continuity Between Terminals In Each Switch


MOTOR TEST
DRIVER'S 8-WAY ADJUSTABLE POWER SEAT
1. Remove the driver's seat (see FRONT SEAT

2. Disconnect the 12P connector (A) from the power seat adjustment switch (B).
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3. Test each motor by applying battery voltage and body ground to the terminals.
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Fig. 10: Testing Motor By Applying Battery Voltage & Body Ground To
Terminals (Slide Motor)
Terminals (Recline Motor)
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Terminals (Front Up-Down Motor)
Terminals (Rear Up-Down Motor)
4. If the motor does not run or fails to run smoothly, check for an open in the
driver's seat wire harness between the 12P connector and each motor
connector. If the harness is OK, replace the motor (see FRONT SEAT
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RECLINE MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).

DRIVER'S 2-WAY ADJUSTABLE POWER SEAT

2. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the power seat adjustment switch (B).
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3. Test the motor (C) by applying battery voltage to the 5P connector No. 2 (or
No. 4) and ground to the No. 4 (or No. 2) terminals. The motor should run.
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4. If the motor does not run or fails to run smoothly, check for an open in the wire
between the 5P connector and the motor 2P connector. If the harness is OK,
replace the motor (see FRONT SEAT RECLINE MOTOR
REPLACEMENT ).
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2003-07 STEERING Power Steering - Accord (V6)
2003-07 STEERING
Power Steering - Accord (V6)
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Components Of Steering Power Steering

Find the symptom in the chart below, and do the related procedures in the order
listed until you find the cause.
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
Symptom Procedure(s) Also check for:
Modified
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suspension
Damaged
Troubleshoot the system (see
suspension
Hard steering SYMPTOM
Tire sizes, tire
TROUBLESHOOTING ).
varieties, and air
pressure
Assist (excessively Check the rack guide Front wheel alignment,
light steering at high adjustment (see RACK refer to WHEEL
speed) GUIDE ADJUSTMENT ). ALIGNMENT .
1. Check the rack guide
adjustment (see RACK
GUIDE
ADJUSTMENT ).
Shock or vibration
when the steering 2. Check the drive belt for
wheel is turned to full slippage (see DRIVE
lock BELT INSPECTION ).
3. Replace the steering
gearbox (see STEERING
GEARBOX
REMOVAL ).
1. Check cylinder lines A
and B for deformation.
2. Check wheel alignment,
Steering wheel will refer to WHEEL
not return smoothly ALIGNMENT .
GEARBOX
REMOVAL).

GUIDE
ADJUSTMENT).
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2. Check the drive belt (see

DRIVE BELT
INSPECTION ).
3. Check for low or erratic
engine idle speed (see
IDLE SPEED
INSPECTION ).
4. Check for air in the power
steering system due to
Uneven or rough low fluid level or an air
steering leak at the pump inlet
hose.
5. Check for low fluid level
in the power steering
reservoir due to possible
leaks in system.
GEARBOX
REMOVAL).
DRIVE BELT
INSPECTION ).
2. Check the power steering
Steering wheel kicks pump fluid pressure with
back during wide turns (see PUMP PRESSURE
TEST WITH T/N
07406-0010001) or (see
PUMP PRESSURE
TEST WITH T/N
07406-001000A).
1. Check when the noise

occurs:
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If the noise is heard

2-3 minutes after
starting the engine in
cold weather, this is
normal.
when the wheel is
turned with the
Humming noise from vehicle stopped, this
the power steering is normal due to the Pump pressure
system fluid pulsation.
2. Check for the high-
pressure hose touching
the subframe or body.
3. Check for automatic
transmission converter
noise.
4. Check for air bubbles in
the power steering fluid.
1. Check for loose steering

components (tie-rod and
ball joints).
Tighten or replace as
necessary.
2. Check the steering

column shaft for
wobbling. If the steering
column wobbles, replace
the steering column
assembly, refer to
STEERING COLUMN
Power steering rack REMOVAL AND
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rattle or chattering INSTALLATION .

GUIDE
ADJUSTMENT).
pump pulley.
If the pulley is loose,
tighten it (see step
33 ).
If the pump shaft is
loose, replace the
pump (see PUMP
REPLACEMENT).
Check the fluid level. If
low, fill the reservoir to
the proper level and check
for leaks.
Check the reservoir for
leaks.
Hissing noise/foaming
Check for crushed inlet Air in the P/S fluid
fluid in reservoir
hose or loose hose clamp
allowing air into the
suction side of the system.
Check the power steering
pump shaft oil seal for
leaks.
Compare the pump noise

at normal operating
Noise from the power P/S pump pressure
temperature to another
steering pump Air in the P/S fluid
alike vehicle (pump noise
up to 2-3 minutes after
starting the engine in cold
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weather is normal).
Remove and inspect the
pump for wear and
damage (see PUMP
OVERHAUL).
Check the drive belt (see
Squeaking from the
DRIVE BELT
power steering pump
INSPECTION ).
Fluid leaks from the top
of the valve body unit:
Replace the valve body
unit.
Fluid leaks from the left
tie-rod boot: Replace the
valve body unit. Replace
the cylinder end seal on
the gearbox side.
Fluid leaks from the right
tie-rod boot: Replace the
cylinder end seal.
Fluid leaks from the Fluid leaks from pinion
steering gearbox shaft near the lower
steering joint bolt:
Replace the valve body
unit.
Fluid leaks from the
steering damping valve
covers on the valve body
unit (SHOWA-steering
gearbox): Replace the
valve housing.
connector A and B on the
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cylinder, or the
connectors are loosening
(TKS-steering gearbox):
Replace the cylinder
housing.
cylinder line A or B
connections (flare nuts):
Tighten the connection
and retest. If it still leaks,
replace the fitting O-rings.
Fluid leaks from a
damaged cylinder line A
Fluid leaks from the or B: Replace the cylinder
power steering line line.
Fluid leaks from the pump
outlet hose or return line
fitting on the valve body
unit (flare nuts): Tighten
the fitting and retest. If it
still leaks, replace the
hose, the line, or valve
body unit as necessary.
Fluid leaks from the front
oil seal: Replace the front
oil seal.
Fluid leaks from the power steering pump

power steering pump housing: Replace the
leaking O-rings or seals
(see PUMP
OVERHAUL), and if
necessary replace the
power steering pump.
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Fluid leaks from around

the reservoir cap: Fluid
level is too high: drain the
reservoir to the proper
Fluid leaks from the level. Aerated fluid:
power steering Check for on air leak on
reservoir the inlet side of pump.
Fluid leaks from
reservoir: Check the
reservoir for cracks and
replace as necessary.
Check the fitting for loose
Fluid leaks from the bolts. If the bolts are tight,
power steering pump replace the fitting O-ring.
outlet hose (high- Fluid leaks at the swagged
pressure) joint: Replace the outlet
hose.
Fluid leaks from the Check the hose for damage,
power steering pump deterioration, or improper
inlet hose (low- assembly. Replace or repair as
pressure) necessary.
HARD STEERING
1. Check the power assist, (see PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-
0010001 ).
Is the power assist more than 29 N (3.0 kgf, 6.6 lbf)?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Power assist is OK.
2. Measure steady-state fluid pressure from the pump at idle with T/N 07406-
0010001 (see PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-0010001 ) or
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T/N 07406-001000A (see PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-

001000A ).
2
Is the pressure 1,470 kPa (15 kgf/cm , 213 psi) or less?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Go to step 7.
3. Measure the pump relief pressure at idle with T/N 07406-0010001 (see PUMP
PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-0010001 ) or T/N 07406-001000A (see
PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-001000A ).
2
Is the pressure 7,940-8,630 kPa (81-88 kgf/cm , 1,150-1,250 psi) or less?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 8.
4. With a spring scale, measure the power assist in both directions, to the left and
to the right.
Are the two measurements within 5.0 N (0.51 kgf, 1.12 lbf) of each other?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 9.
5. Measure the fluid pressure with T/N 07406-0010001 (see step 11 in PUMP
PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-0010001 ) or T/N 07406-001000A (see
step 10 in PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-001000A ) with both
pressure gauge valves open (if so equipped), while turning the steering wheel
fully to the left and fully to the right.
2
Is the pressure 7,940-8,630 kPa (81-88 kgf/cm , 1,150-1,250 psi) or less?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Faulty gearbox.
6. Adjust the rack guide (see RACK GUIDE ADJUSTMENT ), and retest.
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Is the steering OK?

YES - Repair is completed.
7. Check for feed and return lines between the pump and the gearbox for clogging
and deformation.
Are the lines clogged or deformed?
YES - Repair or replace the lines.

NO - Faulty valve body unit.
8. Check the flow control valve (see step 11 in Pump Overhaul ) for smooth
movement and leaks.
Is the flow control valve OK?

YES - Faulty pump assembly.
NO - Faulty flow control valve.
9. Check the cylinder lines A and B for deformation (see POWER STEERING
HOSE, LINE, AND PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT).
Are the A or B lines deformed?

YES - Replace the lines.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Check for a bent rack shaft or misadjusted rack guide (too tight).
Is the rack shaft bent or the rack guide adjusted too tight?
YES - Replace the rack shaft or readjust the rack guide.
PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-0010001
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P/S joint adapter (pump) 07VAK-P8A011A

P/S joint adapter plate (pump) 07VAK-P8A012B
P/S joint adapter (hose) 07RAK-S040122
P/S pressure gauge 07406-0010001
Check the fluid pressure as follows to determine whether the trouble is in the pump
or gearbox.
1. Check the power steering fluid level (see FLUID REPLACEMENT).

2. Disconnect the pump outlet hose (A) from the pump outlet with care so as not
to spill the power steering fluid on the frame and other parts, then install the
P/S joint adapter (pump) on the pump outlet (B) with the P/S joint outlet plate.
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Fig. 3: Disconnecting Pump Outlet Hose From Pump Outlet

3. Connect the P/S joint adapter (hose) to the P/S pressure gauge, then connect
the pump outlet hose to the P/S joint adapter (hose).
4. Install the P/S pressure gauge to the P/S joint adapter (pump).
5. Fully open the shut-off valve (A).
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Fig. 4: Opening Shut-Off Valve

6. Fully open the pressure control valve (B).
7. Start the engine and let it idle.
8. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to warm the fluid to
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operating temperature.
9. Measure steady-state fluid pressure while the engine is idling. If the pump is in
2
good condition, the gauge should read no more than 1,470 kPa (15kgf/cm ,
213 psi).
If it reads high, check for:

Clogged or deformed feed or return line between the pump and gearbox.

Clogged valve body unit.
10. Close the shut-off valve, then close the pressure control valve gradually until
the pressure gauge needle is stable. Read the pressure.
NOTE: Do not keep the shut-off valve closed more than 5

seconds or the pump could be damaged by over-
heating.
11. Immediately open the shut-off valve fully.

If the pump is in good condition, the gauge should read at least 7,940-8,630
2
kPa (81-88 kgf/cm , 1,150-1,250 psi). A low reading means pump output is
too low for full assist. Repair or replace the pump.
PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-001000A

P/S joint adapter plate (pump) 07VAK-P8A012B
P/S joint adapter (hose) 07RAK-S040122
P/S pressure gauge 07406-001000A
or gearbox.
1. Check the power steering fluid level (see FLUID REPLACEMENT).

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to spill the power steering fluid on the frame and other parts, then install the
P/S joint adapter (pump) on the pump outlet (B) with the P/S joint outlet plate.
Fig. 5: Disconnecting Pump Outlet Hose From Pump Outlet

5. Open the pressure control valve (A) fully.
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Fig. 6: Opening Pressure Control Valve

operating temperature.
2
good condition, the gauge should read no more than 1,470 kPa (15kgf/cm ,
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213 psi).
If it reads high, check for:
Clogged or deformed feed or return line between the pump and gearbox.

Clogged valve body unit.
9. Lower the engine speed and let it idle. Gradually close the pressure control
valve and immediately read the pressure.
NOTE: Do not keep the pressure control valve closed more

than 5 seconds or the pump could be damaged by over-
heating.
10. Immediately open the pressure control valve fully.

If the pump is in good condition, the gauge should read at least 7,940-8,630
2
kPa (81-88 kgf/cm , 1,150-1,250 psi). A low reading means pump output is
too low for full assist. Repair or replace the pump.
FLUID LEAKAGE INSPECTION
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Fig. 7: Locating Fluid Leakage Inspection Point

FLUID REPLACEMENT
Check the reservoir (A) at regular intervals, and add the recommended fluid as
necessary. Always use Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power
steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor
steering in cold weather.
System capacity:
1.1 L (1.16 US.qt) at disassembly
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Reservoir capacity:
0.4 L (0.42 US.qt)
Fig. 8: Identifying Reservoir

1. Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose (A) to drain the reservoir.
Take care not to spill the fluid on the body and parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid
at once.
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Fig. 9: Disconnecting Return Hose To Drain Reservoir

2. Connect a hose (B) of suitable diameter to the disconnected return hose, and
put the hose end in a suitable container.
3. Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times.
When fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the engine. Discard the fluid.
4. Reinstall the return hose on the reservoir.

5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line (C).
6. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, then turn the steering wheel from lock-
7. Recheck the fluid level and add some if necessary. Do not fill the reservoir
beyond the upper level line.
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8. If the fluid is contaminated, dark, or discolored, repeat procedure as necessary.

POWER STEERING HOSE, LINE, AND PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT
Note these items during installation:

Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop
on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from
the hose end as shown.
Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new
ones if necessary.
Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the
reservoir and check for leaks.
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Fig. 10: Identifying Dimension Of Power Steering Hose, Line, And

Pressure Switch
PUMP REPLACEMENT
1. Place a suitable container under the vehicle.

2. Drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
3. Remove the side engine mount bracket (A).
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Fig. 11: Identifying Side Engine Mount Bracket

4. Remove the drive belt (A) from the pump pulley (see DRIVE BELT
REPLACEMENT ).
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Fig. 12: Removing Drive Belt From Pump Pulley

5. Cover the auto-tensioner, alternator, and A/C compressor with several shop
towels to protect them from spilled power steering fluid. Disconnect the pump
inlet hose (B) and pump outlet hose (C) from the pump (D), and plug them.
Take care not to spill the fluid on the body or parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid
at once. Do not turn the steering wheel with the pump removed.
6. Remove the pump mounting bolts (E).
7. Cover the opening of the pump with a piece of tape to prevent foreign material
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from entering the pump.

8. Connect the pump inlet hose and pump outlet hose onto the new pump.
9. Loosely install the pump in the pump bracket with the mounting bolts, then
tighten the pump fittings securely.
10. Tighten the pump mounting bolts to the specified torque.
11. Install the drive belt (A).
Note these items during belt installation:
Make sure that the belt is properly positioned on the pulleys (B).
Do not get power steering fluid or grease on the auto-tensioner, alternator,
A/C compressor, and drive belt or pulley faces. Clean off any fluid or
grease before installation.
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Fig. 13: Installing Drive Belt

12. Install the side engine mount bracket. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
13. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line (see FLUID REPLACEMENT).
PUMP OVERHAUL
Replace the pump as an assembly if the parts indicated with asterisk (*) are worn or
damaged.
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Fig. 14: Exploded View Of Pump Overhaul

Pulley holder 07ZAB-S5A0100

Disassembly
NOTE: Refer to Fig. 14 as needed.
1. Drain the fluid from the pump (see step 1 in Fluid Replacement ).
2. Remove the power steering pump (see PUMP REPLACEMENT ).
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3. Hold the power steering pump (A) in a vise with soft jaws (B), hold the pulley
(C) with the special tool (D), and remove the pulley nut (E) and pulley.
Be careful not to damage the pump housing with the jaws of the vise.
Fig. 15: Holding Power Steering Pump In Vise

4. Remove the inlet joint and O-ring.

5. Loosen the flow control valve cap with a hex wrench, and remove it and the O-
ring, flow control valve and spring.
6. Remove the pump cover and pump cover seal.
7. Remove the outer side plate, cam ring, rotor, vanes, side plate and O-rings.
8. Remove the snap ring, then remove the sub-valve from the pump housing.
9. Remove the snap ring, then remove the pump drive shaft by tapping the shaft
end with the plastic hammer.
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10. Remove the seal from the pump housing.

Inspection
11. Check the flow control valve for wear, burrs, and other damage to the edges of
the grooves in the valve.
Fig. 16: Checking Flow Control Valve

12. Inspect the bore of the flow control valve on the pump housing for scratches
and wear.
13. Slip the flow control valve back in the pump housing, and check that it moves
in and out smoothly. If OK, go to step 14; if not, replace the pump as an
assembly. The flow control valve (A) is not available separately.
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Fig. 17: Identifying Flow Control Valve

14. Attach a hose (A) to the end of the flow control valve (B) as shown in Fig. 18.
Then submerge the flow control valve in a container of power steering fluid or
solvent (C), and blow in the hose.
2
If air bubbles leak through the valve at less than 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm ,
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14.2 psi), replace the pump as an assembly. The flow control valve is not
available separately.
If the flow control valve OK, set it aside for reassembly later.
Fig. 18: Attaching Hose To End Of Flow Control Valve

15. Inspect the ball bearing by rotating the outer race slowly. If you feel any play
(axial or radial) or roughness remove the faulty ball bearing (A), and install a
new one (B).
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Fig. 19: Inspecting Ball Bearing

16. Inspect each part shown with an asterisk in the Exploded View; if any of them
are worn or damaged, replace the pump as an assembly.
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Reassembly
17. Align the pin (A) of the sub-valve (B) with the oil passage (C) in the pump
housing, and push the subvalve into place, then install the snap ring (D).
Fig. 20: Aligning Pin Of Sub-Valve With Oil Passage In Pump Housing
18. Install the new pump seal (A) (with its grooved side facing in) into the pump
housing by hand first then position the pump drive shaft (B) in the pump
housing. Press the pump drive shaft and pump seal with the appropriate size
socket wrench (C) as shown in Fig. 21.
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Fig. 21: Installing New Pump Seal Into Pump Housing

19. Install the 40 mm snap ring (D) with its radiused edge facing out.
20. Coat the new pump cover seal (A) with power steering fluid, and install it into
the groove in the pump cover (B).
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Fig. 22: Coating Pump Cover Seal With Power Steering Fluid
21. Install the outer side plate (C) over the two roll pins (D) with its arrow marks
stamped (E) facing down.
22. Set the pump cam ring (A) over the two roll pins with its mark (B) facing
down.
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Fig. 23: Setting Pump Cam Ring Over Two Roll Pins With Mark Facing
Down
23. Assemble pump rotor (A) to the pump cover (B) with its mark (C) facing up.
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Fig. 24: Assembling Pump Rotor To Pump Cover With Mark Facing Up
24. Set the 10 vanes (D) in the grooves in the rotor.
Make sure that the round ends (E) of the vanes are in contact with the sliding
surface of the cam ring.
25. Coat the new O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, and install it into the
groove in the side plate (B).
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Fig. 25: Coating O-Ring With Power Steering Fluid

26. Install the side plate on the cam ring (C) by aligning the roll pins set holes (D)
in the side plate with the roll pins (E).
27. Coat the new O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, and position it in the
bottom of the pump housing.
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Fig. 26: Positioning O-Ring In Bottom Of Pump Housing

28. Install the pump cover assembly (B) in the pump housing. Tighten the bolts to
the specified torque.
29. Coat the flow control valve (A) with power steering fluid, then install it and the
spring (B) in the pump housing.
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Fig. 27: Coating Flow Control Valve With Power Steering Fluid
30. Coat the new O-ring (C) with power steering fluid, and install it on the flow
control valve cap (D), then install the cap on the pump housing, and tighten it
to the specified torque.
31. Coat the new O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, and install it on the inlet
joint (B). Install the inlet joint on the pump housing.
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Fig. 28: Installing O-Ring On Inlet Joint

32. Install the pulley (A), then loosely install the pulley nut (B). Hold the steering
pump in a vise with soft jaws. Be careful not to damage the pump housing with
the jaws of the vise.
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Fig. 29: Loosening Pulley

33. Hold the pulley with the special tool, and tighten the pulley nut to the specified
torque.
34. Check that the pump turns smoothly by turning the pulley by hand. If it turns
hard, loosen the four flange bolts on the cover, then retighten them in same
manner as in step 28. Turn the pump again by hand.
RACK GUIDE ADJUSTMENT
Locknut wrench, 40 mm 07916-SA50001

SHOWA-STEERING GEARBOX

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2. Loosen the rack guide screw locknut (A) with the special tool, then remove the
rack guide screw (B).
Fig. 30: Loosening Rack Guide Screw Locknut

3. Remove the old sealant from the rack guide screw (A), and apply new sealant
(Three Bond 1215 or Loctite 5699) all around the threads (B). Loosely install
the rack guide screw on the steering gearbox.
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Fig. 31: Identifying Sealant From Rack Guide Screw

4. Tighten the rack guide screw (A) to 25 N.m (2.5 kgf.m, 18 lbf.ft), then loosen
it.
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Fig. 32: Tightening Rack Guide Screw

5. Retighten the rack guide screw to 3.9 N.m (0.4 kgf.m, 3 lbf.ft), then back it off
to the specified angle.
Specified return angle: 20 max.
6. Hold the rack guide screw stationary with a wrench, and tighten the locknut by
hand until it's fully seated.
7. Install the special tool on the locknut (B), and hold the rack guide screw
stationary with a wrench.
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Tighten the locknut to the specified torque with the special tool.
8. Check for unusual steering effort through the complete turning travel.
9. Check the steering wheel rotation play and the power assist, see PUMP
PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-0010001 .
TKS-STEERING GEARBOX

Fig. 33: Loosening Rack Guide Screw Locknut

3. Remove the old sealant from rack guide screw (A) threaded section, and apply
new sealant (Loctite 565) all around the first three threads (B). Loosely install
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the rack guide screw on the steering gearbox.
Fig. 34: Removing Sealant From Rack Guide Screw

it.
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Specified return angle: 15+/-5
stationary with a wrench.
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Tighten the locknut to the specified torque with the special tool.
8. Check for unusual steering effort through the complete turning travel.
9. Check the steering wheel rotation play and the power assist, (see PUMP
PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-0010001 ).
STEERING GEARBOX REMOVAL

Subframe adaptor EQS02C000016
(Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment program 888-424-6857)
Note these items during removal:

Using solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off the valve body unit, its
lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air.
Make sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint.
Damage to the cable reel can occur.
1. Drain the power steering fluid (see step 1 in Fluid Replacement ).

2. Raise the front of vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper
locations, refer to LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS .
5. Remove the steering joint cover A.
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6. Remove the steering joint bolt (A), and disconnect the steering joint by moving
the steering joint (B) toward the column. Hold the slider shaft (C) on the
column with a piece of wire (D) between the joint yoke (E) on the slider shaft
to the joint yoke on the upper shaft, refer to STEERING COLUMN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
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Fig. 37: Identifying Steering Joint Bolt

7. Remove the steering joint cover B. Be careful not to damage the mating
surface on the joint cover B and pinion shaft grommet. Replace the cover seal
(A) if necessary.
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8. Remove and discard the cotter pin (A) from the tie-rod ball joint nut (B), then
loosen the nut.
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Fig. 39: Removing And Discarding Cotter Pin From Tie-Rod Ball Joint
Nut
9. Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle using the special tool, refer to
BALL JOINT REMOVAL .
10. Remove the P/S heat baffle plate (A).
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Fig. 40: Identifying P/S Heat Baffle Plate

11. Remove the feed line holder mounting bolt (A) on the front suspension
subframe.
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Fig. 41: Removing Feed Line Holder Mounting Bolt On Front Suspension
Subframe
12. Remove the feed line holder mounting bolt (A) and return hose (B) from the
gearbox mounting bracket (C).
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Fig. 42: Identifying Feed Line Holder Mounting Bolt And Return Hose
13. Place several shop towels under the line connections, and cover the gearbox
mounting part to protect it from the power steering fluid. Loosen the flare nut
(A), and disconnect the feed line (B).
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Fig. 43: Disconnecting Feed Line

14. Loosen the flare nut (C), and disconnect the return line (D).
15. After disconnecting the lines, plug or seal them with a piece of tape or
equivalent to prevent foreign materials from entering.
NOTE: Do not loosen the cylinder line A and B between the

valve body unit and the cylinder.
16. Attach the special tool to the front suspension subframe (A) with hanging the
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hook of the special tool over the front of the subframe, then tighten the special
tool screw.
Fig. 44: Attaching Special Tool To Front Suspension Subframe

17. Raise the jack (B) and line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the
corner of the jack base, then attach them with bolts securely.
18. Remove the front suspension subframe right middle mount bolts (A).
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Fig. 45: Identifying Front Suspension Subframe Right Middle Mount

Bolts
19. Remove the front suspension subframe left middle mount (A).
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Fig. 46: Identifying Front Suspension Subframe Left Middle Mount

20. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolts on the left gearbox mount, and
remove the steering stiffener plate (A).
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Fig. 47: Identifying Steering Stiffener Plate

21. Remove the front suspension subframe rear bracket (A) mounting bolt (B).
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Fig. 48: Identifying Front Suspension Subframe Rear Bracket Mounting

Bolt
22. Loosen the two front suspension subframe mounting bolts (C) on right and left,
and slowly lower the jack supporting subframe (D) with special tool until the
subframe has dropped 30 mm (1 1/8 in.) total.
23. Remove the two flange bolts from the right side of the gearbox, then remove
the gearbox mounting bracket (A) and cushion (B).
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Fig. 49: Identifying Gearbox Mounting Bracket And Cushion

24. Move the steering gearbox toward the front, and remove the pinion shaft
grommet (A) from the top of the valve body unit.
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Fig. 50: Identifying Pinion Shaft Grommet From Top Of Valve Body Unit
25. Apply vinyl tape (B) to the splines on the pinion shaft.
26. Apply vinyl tape or equivalent material (A) to brake lines (B) to protect it from
the pinion shaft.
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Fig. 51: Applying Vinyl Tape To Brake Lines

27. Move the steering gearbox to the driver's side, and rotate it so the pinion shaft
points toward the front of the vehicle.
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Fig. 52: Moving Steering Gearbox To Driver's Side

28. Carefully move the steering gearbox as an assembly toward the driver's side of
the vehicle until the pinion shaft clears the wheelwell opening.
Be careful not to damage the brake lines with the pinion shaft.
29. Remove the steering gearbox through the wheelwell opening on the driver's
side.
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Fig. 53: Identifying Steering Gearbox

30. After removing the steering gearbox, make sure that no power steering fluid
gets on the gearbox mount cushions, gearbox housing, surface of the subframe
and stiffener. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
STEERING GEARBOX OVERHAUL
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Fig. 54: Exploded View Of TKS-Steering Gearbox (Manufactured In U.S.A.

And Mexico Plants Only)
Driver handle, 480 mm 070GD-0010100
Attachment, 24 x 26 mm 07746-0010700
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Pilot, 22 mm 07746-0041000
Driver 07749-0010000
Attachment, 42 x 47 mm 07746-0010300
Piston seal ring guide 07ZAG-S7A0100
Piston seal ring sizing tool 07ZAG-S7A0200
Pincer Oetiker 1098, or equivalent, commercially available
NOTE: Refer to Fig. 54 as needed .

For the Showa-made steering gearbox overhaul
procedures, see STEERING GEARBOX OVERHAUL .
Removal
1. Remove the steering gearbox (see STEERING GEARBOX REMOVAL ).
Disassembly: TKS-Made Steering Gearbox

2. Remove the boot bands (A) and tie-rod clips (B).
Pull the boots away from the ends of the steering gearbox.
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Fig. 55: Identifying Boot Bands And Tie-Rod Clips

3. Unbend the lock washer (A).
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Fig. 56: Unbending Lock Washer

4. Hold the flat surface sections (A) of the steering rack (B) with a wrench, and
unscrew both rack ends (C) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the rack
surface with the wrench.
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Fig. 57: Holding Flat Surface Sections Of Steering Rack With Wrench
5. Remove the lock washer (D) and stop washer (E).

6. Loosen the locknut (A), then remove the rack guide screw (B).
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Fig. 58: Loosening Locknut

7. Remove the spring (C) and the rack guide (D) from the gearbox housing.
8. Remove the cylinder lines from the gearbox.
NOTE: Use a second wrench when loosening the cylinder lines

to avoid damage to the fittings on the steering gearbox.
Do not loosen the A and B connectors.
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Fig. 59: Removing Cylinder Lines From Gearbox

9. Drain the fluid from the cylinder fittings by slowly moving the steering rack
back and forth.
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10. Remove the end plug (A) from the gearbox housing, then remove the nut (B)
from the pinion shaft end.
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Fig. 60: Identifying End Plug From Gearbox Housing

11. Remove the two flange bolts, the valve body unit (C), and gasket (D) from the
gearbox. Check that the valve turns smoothly by turning the pinion shaft. If any
play or roughness is felt, replace the valve body unit with a new part. Do not
try to disassemble the valve body unit.
12. Slide the steering rack all the way to the left.
13. Turn the rack stop (A) counterclockwise until the end (B) of the circlip (C)
sticks out from the hole (D) in the cylinder housing. Then turn it clockwise to
remove the circlip.
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Fig. 61: Turning Rack Stop Counterclockwise

14. Remove the rack stop (A), rack bushing (B), and steering rack (C) from the
steering gearbox.
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Fig. 62: Removing Rack Stop, Rack Bushing And Steering Rack From
Steering Gearbox
15. Remove the O-ring (A) and cylinder end seal (B) from the rack bushing (C).
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Fig. 63: Removing O-Ring And Cylinder End Seal From Rack Bushing
16. Carefully pry the piston seal ring (A) and O-ring (B) off the rack piston. Be
careful not to damage the inside of seal ring groove and piston edges when
removing the seal ring.
Fig. 64: Prying Piston Seal Ring And O-Ring Off Rack Piston
17. Insert the special tools, and carefully place it on the cylinder end seal (A) as
shown in Fig. 65. Make sure that the special tool is securely positioned on the
cylinder end seal.
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Fig. 65: Placing Special Tools On Cylinder End Seal

18. Install the bearing separator (B) on the gearbox housing. Set the steering
gearbox in a press so the gearbox housing points upward, then push out the
cylinder end seal by pressing on the end of the special tool.
19. Remove the steering gearbox from the press, and set a driver extension (A) on
the special tool (driver handle). Place the steering gearbox in a press, then
remove the cylinder end seal (B) from the gearbox by pressing on the end of
the extension.
Note these items when pressing the cylinder end seal:

Keep the tool straight to avoid damaging the cylinder wall. Check the tool
angle, and correct it if necessary, when removing the cylinder end seal.
Use a press to remove the cylinder end seal. Do not try to remove the seal
by striking the tool; striking the tool would break the cylinder end seal,
and the seal would remain in the gearbox.
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Fig. 66: Setting Driver Extension On Special Tool

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Reassembly
20. Coat the special tool with power steering fluid, then slide it onto the rack, big
end first.
21. Position the new O-ring (A) and new piston seal ring (B) on the special tool,
then slide them down toward the big end of the tool.
Note these items during reassembly:

Do not over expand the resin seal rings. Install the resin seal rings with
care so as not to damage them. After installation, make sure you contract
the seal ring using the special tool (sizing tool).
Replace the piston's O-ring and seal ring as a set.
Fig. 67: Positioning O-Ring And Piston Seal Ring On Special Tool
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22. Pull the O-ring off into the piston groove, then pull the piston seal ring off into
the piston groove on top of the O-ring.
23. Coat the piston seal ring (A) and the inside of the special tool with power
steering fluid, then carefully slide the tool onto the rack and over the piston
seal ring.
Fig. 68: Coating Piston Seal Ring And Inside Of Special With Power
Steering Fluid
24. Move the special tool back and forth several times to make sure the piston seal
ring fits snugly in the piston.
25. Wrap vinyl tape around the rack teeth and rack end edges, then coat the surface
of the tape with power steering fluid. Make sure that the vinyl tape is wrapped
carefully so that there is no stepped portion.
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Fig. 69: Wrapping Vinyl Tape Around Rack Teeth And Rack End Edges
26. Coat the inside surface of the new cylinder end seal (A) with power steering
fluid, then install it onto the steering rack with its grooved side toward the
piston. When installing the cylinder end seal, be careful not to damage the lip
of the seal with the edges or teeth of the steering rack.
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Fig. 70: Coating Inside Surface Of Cylinder Head Seal With Power
Steering Fluid
27. Remove the vinyl tape from the steering rack, then remove any adhesive
residue.
28. Apply multipurpose grease to the steering rack teeth, then insert the steering
rack into the gearbox housing. Be careful not to damage the inner surface of
the cylinder wall with the rack edges.
Fig. 71: Inserting Steering Rack Into Gearbox Housing

29. Insert a deep socket (A) onto the steering rack as shown.
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Fig. 72: Inserting Deep Socket Onto Steering Rack

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30. Install the cylinder and seal (B) into the bottom of the cylinder by pressing on
the tool with a press.
Do not push on the tool with excessive force as it may damage the cylinder end
seal.
31. Remove the tool, and center the steering rack.
32. Wrap vinyl tape around the rack end edges, and coat the surface of the tape
with power steering fluid. Make sure that the vinyl tape is wrapped carefully so
there is no stepped portion.
Fig. 73: Wrapping Vinyl Tape Around Rack End Edges

33. Coat the inside surface of the new cylinder end seal (A) with power steering
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fluid, then press it into the rack bushing (B) using the special tools.
Fig. 74: Coating Inside Surface Of New Cylinder End Seal With Power
Steering Fluid
34. Coat the new O-ring (C) with power steering fluid, and carefully fit it in the
groove of the rack bushing.
35. Install the rack bushing onto the steering rack with the cylinder end seal
grooved side toward the piston. Push in the rack bushing with your finger.
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Fig. 75: Installing Rack Bushing Onto Steering Rack

36. Remove the vinyl tape from the steering rack, then remove any adhesive
residue.
37. Install the rack stop (A) onto the steering rack so the hole (B) is aligned with
the slot (C) on the cylinder housing.
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Fig. 76: Installing Rack Stop Onto Steering Rack

38. Insert the end of the circlip (A) into the hole (B) of the rack stop (C). Turn the
rack stop counterclockwise until the circlip is fully seated in the rack stop.
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Fig. 77: Inserting End Of Circlip Into Hole Of Rack Stop

39. Apply multipurpose grease to the bearings (A) in the gearbox housing, and
install the valve body unit (B) and new gasket (C) by engaging the gears.
Note the valve body unit installation position (direction of line connections).
Then loosely install the two flange bolts.
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Fig. 78: Installing Valve Body Unit And Gasket By Engaging Gears
40. Install the new self-locking nut (D) onto the pinion shaft end, and tighten to the
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specified torque.
41. Tighten the flange bolts to the specified torque.
42. Apply new sealant (Loctite 565) all the way around the threads on the end plug
(E), install the end plug onto the gearbox housing, and tighten it to the
specified torque.
43. After tightening, use a drift to stake (A) the end plug shoulder against the
gearbox housing.
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Fig. 79: Using Drift To Stake End Plug Shoulder Against Gearbox
Housing
44. Before installing the cylinder lines, coat the new O-rings with power steering
fluid, then install the lines.
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Thoroughly clean the joints of the cylinder lines.
The joints must be free of foreign material.
Install the cylinder lines by tightening the flare nuts by hand first, then
tighten the flare nuts to the specified torque.
NOTE: Use a second wrench when tightening the cylinder lines

to avoid damaging the fittings on the steering gearbox.
Fig. 80: Identifying Lines

45. Apply multipurpose grease to the sliding surface of the rack guide (A), and
install it onto the gearbox housing.
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Fig. 81: Applying Multipurpose Grease To Sliding Surface Of Rack Guide

46. Apply new sealant (Loctite 565) all the way around the first three threads of
the rack guide screw (B), then install the spring (C), rack guide screw, and
locknut (D).
47. Adjust the rack guide screw (see TKS-STEERING GEARBOX ). After
adjusting, check that the rack moves smoothly by sliding it right and left.
48. Install the new stop washer (A) and lock washer (B). Align the lock washer
tabs (C) with the slots (D). Install the rack end (E) while holding the lock
washer in place. Repeat this step for the other side of the rack.
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Fig. 82: Identifying Stop Washer And Lock Washer

49. Hold the flat surface sections of the steering rack with a wrench, and tighten
both rack ends. Be careful not to damage the rack surface with the wrench.
50. Bend the lock washer (A) back against the flat spots on the rack end joint
housing.
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Fig. 83: Bending Lock Washer Back Against Flat Spots On Rack End
Joint Housing
51. Apply multipurpose grease to the circumference of the rack end joint housing
(A).
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Fig. 84: Applying Multipurpose Grease To Circumference Of Rack End

Joint Housing
52. Apply a light coat of silicone grease to the boot grooves (B) on the rack ends.
53. Center the steering rack within its stroke.
54. Clean off any grease or contamination from the boot installation surfaces (A)
on the gearbox housing. Install the boots (B) on the rack ends with the tie-rod
clips (C), and fit the boot end on the housing properly.
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Fig. 85: Installing Boots On Rack Ends With Tie-Rod Clips

55. After installing the boots, wipe the grease off the threaded section (D) of the
rack end.
56. Install the new boot bands by aligning the tabs (A) with the holes (B) of the
band.
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Fig. 86: Installing Boot Bands By Aligning Tabs With Holes Of Band
57. Close the ear portion (A) of the band with a commercially available Oetiker
1098 pincer or equivalent (B).
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Fig. 87: Closing Ear Portion Of Band

58. Slide the rack right and left to be certain that the boots are not deformed or
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twisted.
STEERING GEARBOX INSTALLATION
Subframe adaptor EQS02C000016
1. Before installing the steering gearbox, make sure that no power steering fluid is
on the mating surface of the gearbox and the front suspension subframe. To
prevent the gearbox mounting bolts from loosening after the installation,
remove the power steering fluid from the mount cushions and bolt holes.
2. Apply a mild soap and water solution to both sides of the mount cushion
mating surfaces (A).
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Fig. 88: Applying Mild Soap And Water Solution To Both Sides Of Mount
Cushion Mating Surfaces
3. Pass the cylinder of the steering gearbox (B) through the wheelwell opening on
the driver's side.
4. Carefully move the steering gearbox toward the passenger's side until the
pinion shaft clears the wheelwell opening on the body.
5. Rotate the steering gearbox so the pinion shaft (A) points upward.
Fig. 89: Rotating Steering Gearbox

6. Continue moving the gearbox toward the passenger's side until the steering
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gearbox is in position. Make sure the power steering return line and feed line
are routed above the gearbox.
7. Remove the vinyl tape from the pinion shaft, and install the pinion shaft
grommet (A). Align the slot in the pinion shaft grommet with the lug portion
(B) on the valve housing.
Fig. 90: Identifying Pinion Shaft Grommet

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8. Position the cutout (A) on the mounting cushion (B) as shown in Fig. 91, and
install it on the cylinder of the gearbox securely.
Fig. 91: Positioning Cutout On Mounting Cushion

9. Install the gearbox mounting bracket (C) over the mounting cushion, and
loosely install the two flange bolts.
10. Install the steering stiffener plate (A) and gearbox mounting bolts on the left
side of the gearbox, then tighten them to the specified torque.
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Fig. 92: Identifying Steering Stiffener Plate And Gearbox Mounting Bolts
11. Tighten the flange bolts on the right side of the gearbox alternately in two or
more steps to the specified torque.
12. Connect the return line (A) securely, and tighten the flare nut to the specified
torque.
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Fig. 93: Connecting Return Line Securely

13. Connect the feed line (B) securely, and tighten the flare nut to the specified
torque.
14. Install the feed line holder (A) and return hose (B) on the gearbox mounting
bracket (C).
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Fig. 94: Installing Feed Line Holder And Return Hose On Gearbox
Mounting Bracket
15. Install the feed line holder (A) on the subframe.

Make sure that there is no interference between the feed and return lines any
other parts.
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Fig. 95: Installing Feed Line Holder On Subframe

16. Install the P/S heat baffle plate (A).
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Fig. 96: Identifying P/S Heat Baffle Plate

17. Raise the jack supporting front suspension subframe (A) with the special tool
until the subframe is in position, refer to SUBFRAME REPLACEMENT .
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Fig. 97: Raising Jack Support Front Suspension Subframe With Special
Tool
18. Install the front suspension subframe rear bracket (B) mounting bolt (C), then
tighten the new subframe mounting bolt (D) to the specified torque.
19. Install the front suspension subframe left middle mount (A).
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Fig. 98: Installing Front Suspension Subframe Left Middle Mount

20. Install the front suspension subframe right middle mount bolts (A).
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Fig. 99: Identifying Front Suspension Subframe Right Middle Mount

Bolts
21. Wipe off any grease contamination from the ball joint tapered section and
threads. Then reconnect the tie-rod end (A) to the knuckle arms.
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Fig. 100: Reconnecting Tie-Rod End To Knuckle Arms

22. Install the tie-rod end ball joint nut, and tighten it to the specified torque. Then
install the new cotter pin (B), and bend it as shown (C) or (D).
23. Install the new cover seal (A) all the way around in the steering joint cover B.
Make sure there are no wrinkles in the seal, then install the steering joint cover
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B.
Fig. 101: Identifying Cover Seal


25. Position the steering column joint (A) so the bolt (B) opposite to the notch (C)
is within the range shown.
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Fig. 102: Positioning Steering Column Joint

26. With the rack in the straight ahead driving position, cut the wire (D) and slip
the lower end of the steering joint on to the pinion shaft (E).
27. Align the bolt hole (A) on the steering joint with the groove (B) around the
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pinion shaft, and loosely install the joint bolt (C). Make sure that the joint bolt
is securely in the groove of the pinion shaft. Pull on the steering joint to make
sure that the steering joint is fully seated.
Fig. 103: Aligning Bolt Hole On Steering Joint With Groove Around
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Pinion Shaft
28. Tighten the steering joint bolt to the specified torque.

29. Install the steering joint cover A until it contacts the mating surfaces on the
cover B evenly around.

30. Install the front wheel, then set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
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points straight up. Reinstall the steering wheel, refer to STEERING WHEEL
INSTALLATION .
32. Fill the system with power steering fluid, and bleed air from the system (see
FLUID REPLACEMENT ).
33. After installation, do the following checks.
Start the engine, allow it to idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock several times to warm up the fluid. Check the gearbox for leaks (see
FLUID LEAKAGE INSPECTION ).
Do the front toe inspection, refer to FRONT TOE
INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT .
Check the steering wheel spoke angle. If steering spoke angles to the right
and left are not equal (steering wheel and rack are not centered), correct
the engagement of the joint/pinion shaft serrations, and repeat step 31.
Then adjust the front toe by turning the tie-rod ends, if necessary.
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2003-07 STEERING Power Steering - Accord
2003-07 STEERING
Power Steering - Accord
SPECIAL TOOLS

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Identifying Power Steering Components

Find the symptom in SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX , and do the

related procedures in the order listed until you find the cause.

Symptom Procedure(s) Also check for:
Modified
suspension
Troubleshoot the system (see Damaged
Hard steering SYMPTOM suspension
TROUBLESHOOTING ). Tire sizes, tire
varieties, and air
pressure
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Assist (excessively Check the rack guide Front wheel alignment

light steering at high adjustment (see RACK (see WHEEL
speed) GUIDE ADJUSTMENT ). ALIGNMENT ).
GUIDE
ADJUSTMENT ).
2. Check the drive belt for
slippage (see DRIVE
BELT INSPECTION ).
Shock or vibration pump fluid pressure with
when the steering T/N 07406-0010001 (see
wheel is turned to PUMP PRESSURE
full lock TEST WITH T/N 07406-
0010001 ) or T/N 07406-
001000A (see PUMP
PRESSURE TEST
WITH T/N 07406-
001000A ).
4. Overhaul the steering
GEARBOX
OVERHAUL ).
1. Check cylinder lines for

deformation.
2. Check upper and lower
Steering wheel will ball joints for binding.
not return smoothly 3. Check wheel alignment
(see WHEEL
ALIGNMENT ).
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GEARBOX
OVERHAUL ).
GUIDE
ADJUSTMENT ).
DRIVE BELT
INSPECTION ).
3. Check low or erratic
engine idle speed (see
IDLE SPEED
INSPECTION ).
Uneven or rough
steering 4. Check for air in the power
steering system due to air
entering inlet side of
pump.
5. Check for low fluid level
in the power steering
reservoir due to possible
leaks in system.
GEARBOX
OVERHAUL ).

DRIVE BELT
Steering wheel kicks INSPECTION ).
back during wide 2. Check the power steering
turns. pump fluid pressure with
T/N 07406-0010001 (see
PUMP PRESSURE
TEST WITH T/N 07406-
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0010001 ) or T/N 07406-

001000A (see PUMP
PRESSURE TEST
WITH T/N 07406-
001000A ).
1. Check when the noise
occurs:
If the noise is heard 2-
3 minutes after
starting the engine in
cold weather, this is
normal.
when the wheel is
turned with the
vehicle stopped, this is
normal due to the
Humming noise from fluid pulsation.
the power steering Pump pressure
system 2. Check for the high-
pressure hose touching the
subframe or body.
3. Check for automatic
transmission converter
noise.
4. Check for air bubbles in
the power steering fluid,
leak on inlet side of pump.
5. Check for particle
contamination of fluid and
restricted filter in the
reservoir.
1. Check for loose steering

components (tie-rod and
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ball joints).
Tighten or replace as
necessary.
2. Check the steering column

shaft for wobbling. If the
steering column wobbles,
replace the steering
column assembly (see
STEERING COLUMN
REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION ).
Power steering rack
rattle or chattering 3. Check the rack guide
GUIDE
ADJUSTMENT ).
pump pulley.
If the pulley is loose,
tighten it (see step 47
in Pump Overhaul ).
If the pump shaft is
loose, replace the
pump (see PUMP
REPLACEMENT ).
Check the fluid level. If

low, fill the reservoir to the
Hissing from the proper level and check for
power steering leaks. Air in the P/S fluid
system Check the reservoir for
leaks.
Check for crushed inlet
hose or loose hose clamp
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allowing air into the

suction side of the system.
Check the power steering
pump shaft oil seal for
leaks.
Compare the pump noise
at normal operating
temperature to another like
vehicle (pump noise up to
2-3 minutes after starting
Noise from the P/S pump pressure
the engine in cold weather
power steering pump Air in the P/S fluid
is normal).
Remove and inspect the
pump for wear and damage
(see PUMP
OVERHAUL ).
Check the drive belt (see
Squeaking from the
DRIVE BELT
power steering pump
INSPECTION ).
Fluid leaks from the top of
the valve body unit:
Overhaul the valve body
unit (see STEERING
GEARBOX
OVERHAUL ).
Fluid leaks from the left
boot: Replace the valve oil
steering gearbox
seal on the pinion shaft.
Replace the cylinder end
seal on the gearbox side.
Fluid leaks from the right
boot: Replace the right
cylinder end seal.
Fluid leaks from pinion
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shaft near the lower

steering joint bolt:
Overhaul the valve body
unit.
covers on the valve body
unit: Replace the valve
housing.
cylinder line connections
(flare nuts): Tighten the
connection and retest.
Fluid leaks from damaged
cylinder lines: Replace the
Fluid leaks from the cylinder line.
power steering line Fluid leaks from the pump
outlet hose or return line
fitting on the valve body
unit (flare nuts): Tighten
the fitting and retest. If it
still leaks, replace the
hose, the line, or valve
body unit as necessary.
Fluid leaks from the front
oil seal: Replace the front
oil seal.
Fluid leaks from the power
Fluid leaks from the steering pump housing:
power steering pump Replace the leaking O-
rings or seals (see PUMP
OVERHAUL ), and if
necessary replace the
power steering pump (see
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PUMP
REPLACEMENT ).
Fluid leaks from around
the reservoir cap: Fluid
level is too high; drain the
reservoir to the proper
Fluid leaks from the level. Aerated fluid: check
power steering for an air leak on the inlet
reservoir side of pump.
Fluid leaks from reservoir:
Check the reservoir for
cracks and replace as
necessary.
Check the fitting for loose
Fluid leaks from the bolts. If the bolts are tight,
power steering pump replace the fitting O-ring.
outlet hose (high- Fluid leaks at the swagged
pressure) joint: Replace the outlet
hose.
Fluid leaks from the Check the hose for damage,
power steering pump deterioration, or improper
inlet hose (low- assembly. Replace or repair as
pressure) necessary.
HARD STEERING
1. Check the power assist (see Power Assist Check ).
Is the starting load more than 29 N (3.0 kgf, 6.6 lbf)?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Power assist is OK.
2. Measure steady-state fluid pressure from the pump at idle with T/N 07406-
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0010001 (see PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-0010001 ) or

T/N 07406-001000A (see PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-
001000A ).
2
Is the pressure 1,470 kPa (15 kgf/cm , 213 psi) or less?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Go to step 7.
3. Measure the pump relief pressure at idle with T/N 07406-0010001 (see step 10
in Pump Pressure Test with T/N 07406-0010001 ) or T/N 07406-001000A
(see step 9 Pump Pressure Test with T/N 07406-001000A ).
2
Is the pressure 7,160-7,850 kPa (73-80 kgf/cm , 1,040- 1,140 psi) or less?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Faulty pump assembly.
4. With a spring scale, measure the power assist in both directions, to the left and
to the right.
Are the two measurements within 2.9 N (0.3 kgf, 0.66 lbf) of each other?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 8.
5. Measure the fluid pressure with both pressure gauge valves open (if so
equipped), while turning the steering wheel fully to the left and fully to the
right.
2
Is the pressure 7,160- 7,850 kPa (73- 80 kgf/cm , 1,040- 1,140 psi) or less?
YES - Go to step 6.
6. Adjust the rack guide (see RACK GUIDE ADJUSTMENT ), and retest.
Is the steering OK?

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YES - Repair is completed.

7. Check the feed and return lines between the pump and the gearbox for clogging
and deformation.
Are the lines clogged or deformed?
YES - Repair or replace the lines.

NO - Faulty valve body unit or pump.
8. Check the cylinder lines for deformation (see FLUID LEAKAGE
INSPECTION ).
Are the lines deformed?
YES - Replace the lines.

NO - Go to step 9.
9. Check for a bent rack shaft or misadjusted rack guide (too tight).
Is the rack shaft bent or the rack guide adjusted too tight?
YES - Replace the rack shaft or readjust the rack guide.

STEERING WHEEL ROTATIONAL PLAY CHECK
1. Turn the front wheels to the straight ahead position.

2. Measure how far you can turn the steering wheel left and right without moving
the front wheels.
If the play is within the limit, the gearbox and linkages are OK.
If the play exceeds the limit, adjust the rack guide (see RACK GUIDE
ADJUSTMENT ). If the play is still excessive after rack guide
adjustment, inspect the steering linkage and gearbox (see STEERING
LINKAGE AND GEARBOX INSPECTION ).
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Fig. 3: Measuring Steering Wheel Left And Right Without Moving

Front Wheels
POWER ASSIST CHECK
NOTE: This test should be done with original equipment tires and
wheels at the correct tire pressure.
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1. Check the power steering fluid level (see FLUID REPLACEMENT ).

2. Start the engine, let it idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times to warm up the fluid.
3. Attach commercially available spring scale to the steering wheel. With the
engine idling and the vehicle on a clean, dry floor, pull the scale as shown and
read it as soon as the tires begin to turn.
If the scale reads no more than the specifications, the gearbox and pump
are OK.
If the scale reads more than specifications, troubleshoot the steering
system (see SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING ).
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Fig. 4: Attaching Commercially Available Spring Scale To Steering

Wheel
STEERING LINKAGE AND GEARBOX INSPECTION
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Fig. 5: Identifying Steering Linkage And Gearbox Inspection Components

PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-0010001
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P/S joint adapter plate (pump) 07ZAK-S7CA100

P/S joint adapter (hose) 07ZAK-S7CA200
P/S pressure gauge 07406-0010001
or gearbox.

to spill the power steering fluid on the frame and other parts. Install the P/S
joint adapter (pump) on the pump outlet (B).
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Fig. 6: Installing P/S Joint Adapter (Pump) On Pump Outlet

5. Fully open the shut-off valve (A).
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Fig. 7: Opening Shut-Off Valve

6. Fully open the pressure control valve (B).

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operating temperature at 158F (70C).
2
good condition, the pressure should be no more than 1,470 kPa (15 kgf/cm ,
214 psi). If the pressure is too high, check the outlet hose or valve body unit
(see Symptom Troubleshooting ).
Raise the engine speed to 3,000 rpm, and measure the fluid pressure. If the
pump is in good condition, the pressure should be at least 1,470 kPa (15
2
kgf/cm , 214 psi). If the pressure is too high, repair or replace the pump.
10. Lower the engine speed and let it idle. Close the shut-off valve, then close the
pressure control valve gradually until the pressure gauge needle is stable. Read
the pressure.
NOTE: Do not keep the shut-off valve closed more than 5

seconds or the pump could be damaged by over-
heating.
11. Immediately open the shut-off valve fully. If the pump is in good condition, the
2
gauge should read at least 7,160-7,850 kPa (73-80 kgf/cm ,1,040-1,140 psi).
A low reading means pump output is too low for full assist. Repair or replace
the pump.
PUMP PRESSURE TEST WITH T/N 07406-001000A

P/S joint adapter plate (pump) 07ZAK-S7CA100
P/S joint adapter (hose) 07ZAK-S7CA200
P/S pressure gauge 07406-001000A
or gearbox.
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to spill the power steering fluid on the frame and other parts. Install the P/S
joint adapter (pump) on the pump outlet (B).
Fig. 8: Installing P/S Joint Adapter (Pump) On Pump Outlet

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5. Open the pressure control valve (A) fully.
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Fig. 9: Opening Pressure Control Valve


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operating temperature at 158F (70C).
2
good condition, the pressure should be no more than 1,470 kPa (15 kgf/cm ,
213 psi). If the pressure is too high, check the outlet hose or valve body unit
(see Symptom Troubleshooting).
9. Raise the engine speed to 3,000 rpm, and measure the fluid pressure. If the
pump is in good condition, the pressure should be at least 1,470 kPa (15
2
kgf/cm ,213 psi). If the pressure is too high, repair or replace the pump.
10. Lower the engine speed and let it idle. Gradually close the pressure control
valve and immediately read the pressure.
NOTE: Do not keep the pressure control valve closed more

than 5 seconds or the pump could be damaged by over-
heating.
11. Immediately open the pressure control valve fully. If the pump is in good
2
condition, the gauge should read at least 7,160-7,850 kPa (73-80 kgf/cm ,
1,040-1,140 psi). A low reading means pump output is too low for full assist.
Repair or replace the pump.
FLUID LEAKAGE INSPECTION
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Fig. 10: Inspecting Fluid Leakage

FLUID REPLACEMENT
Check the reservoir (A) at regular intervals, and add the recommended fluid as
necessary. Always use Honda Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power
steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor
steering in cold weather.
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Fig. 11: Checking Reservoir At Regular Intervals

1. Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose (A) to drain the reservoir.
Take care not to spill the fluid on the body and parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid
at once.
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Fig. 12: Disconnecting Return Hose To Drain Reservoir

2. Connect a hose (B) of suitable diameter to the disconnected return hose, and
put the hose end in a suitable container.
3. Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. When fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the engine.
Discard the fluid.
4. Reinstall the return hose on the reservoir.
5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line (C).
6. Start the engine and run it at fast idle, then turn the steering wheel from lock-
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7. Recheck the fluid level and add more if necessary. Do not fill the reservoir
beyond the upper level line.
8. If the fluid is contaminated, dark, or discolored, repeat procedure as necessary.
POWER STEERING HOSE, LINE, AND PRESSURE SWITCH REPLACEMENT
Note these items during installation:
Connect each hose to the corresponding line securely until it contacts the stop
on the line. Install the clamp or adjustable clamp at the specified distance from
the hose end as shown in Fig. 13.
Check all clamps for deterioration or deformation; replace the clamps with new
ones if necessary.
Add the recommended power steering fluid to the specified level on the
reservoir and check for leaks.
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Fig. 13: Replacing Power Steering Hose, Line And Pressure Switch
PUMP REPLACEMENT
1. Place a suitable container under the vehicle.

2. Drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
3. Remove the drive belt (A) from the pump pulley (see DRIVE BELT
INSPECTION ).
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Fig. 14: Removing Drive Belt From Pump Pulley

4. Remove the pump mounting bolts (B).

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5. Cover the auto-tensioner, alternator, and A/C compressor with several shop
towels to protect them from spilled power steering fluid. Disconnect the pump
inlet hose (C) and pump outlet hose (D) from the pump (E), and plug them.
Take care not to spill the fluid on the body or parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid
at once. Do not turn the steering wheel with the pump removed.
6. Cover the opening of the pump with a piece of tape to prevent foreign material
from entering the pump.
7. Connect the pump inlet hose and pump outlet hose.
8. Loosely install the pump in the pump bracket with the mounting bolts, then
tighten the pump fittings securely.
9. Install the drive belt (A).
Note these items during belt installation:
Make sure that the belt is properly positioned on the pulleys (B).
Do not get power steering fluid or grease on the auto-tensioner, alternator,
A/C compressor, and drive belt or pulley faces. Clean off any fluid or
grease before installation.
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Fig. 15: Installing Drive Belt

10. Tighten the pump mounting bolts to the specified torque.

11. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line (see FLUID REPLACEMENT ).
PUMP OVERHAUL
Replace the pump as an assembly if the parts indicated with asterisk (*) are worn or
damaged.
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Fig. 16: Exploded View Of Pump Overhaul


Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100
Driver 07749-0010000
Pulley holder 07ZAB-S5A0100
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Disassembly
NOTE: Refer to the Fig. 16 as needed .
1. Drain the fluid from the pump (see FLUID REPLACEMENT ).

2. Remove the power steering pump (see PUMP REPLACEMENT ).
3. Hold the power steering pump (A) in a vise with soft jaws (B), hold the pulley
(C) with the special tool (D), and remove the pulley nut (E) and pulley. Be
careful not to damage the pump housing with the jaws of the vise.
Fig. 17: Holding Power Steering Pump In Vise With Soft Jaws
4. Remove the inlet joint and O-ring.

5. Remove the pressure control valve cap, O-ring, valve spring, and pressure
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control valve.
6. Remove the pump housing cap, O-ring, and pump preload spring.
7. Remove the pump cover and pump cover seals.
8. Pull out the roll pin.
9. Remove the outer case, cam ring, rotor, vanes, and side plate.
10. Remove the rubber seal and slipper seal from the outer case.
11. Remove the O-rings from the bottom of the housing.
12. Remove the snap ring, then remove the drive shaft by tapping the shaft end
with the plastic hammer.
13. Remove the seal from the pump housing.
Inspection
14. Check the pressure control valve for wear, burrs, and other damage to the
edges of the grooves in the valve.
Fig. 18: Checking Pressure Control Valve For Wear, Burrs And Damage
15. Inspect the bore of the pressure control valve on the pump housing for
scratches and wear.
16. Slip the pressure control valve back in the pump housing, and check that it
moves in and out smoothly. If OK, go to step 17; if not, replace the pump as an
assembly. The pressure control valve is not available separately.
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Fig. 19: Slipping Pressure Control Valve Back In Pump Housing

17. Attach a hose (A) to the end of the pressure control valve (B) as shown in Fig.
20. Then submerge the pressure control valve in a container of power steering
fluid or solvent (C), and blow in the hose.
2
If air bubbles leak through the valve at less than 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm ,14.2
psi), replace the pump as an assembly. The pressure control valve is not
available separately.
If the pressure control valve is OK, set it aside for reassembly later.
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Fig. 20: Attaching Hose To End Of Pressure Control Valve

18. Inspect the ball bearing by rotating the outer race slowly. If you feel any play
(axial or radial) or roughness, remove the faulty ball bearing (A), and install a
new one (B).
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Fig. 21: Removing Faulty Ball Bearing

19. Inspect each part shown with an asterisk in Fig. 16 ; if any of them are worn or
damaged, replace the pump as an assembly.
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Reassembly
20. Install the new pump seal (A) (with its grooved side facing in) into the pump
housing (B) by hand first, then drive it in using the special tools until there is
no step at the top of the pump seal, and the seal is fully seated in the pump
housing.
Fig. 22: Installing Pump Seal Into Pump Housing

21. Position the pump drive shaft (A) in the pump housing, then press it in with the
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appropriate size socket wrench (B) as shown in Fig. 23. Do not apply more
than 1,370 N (140 kgf, 308 lbf) of pressure.
Fig. 23: Positioning Pump Drive Shaft In Pump Housing

22. Install the 40 mm snap ring (C) with its radiused edge facing out.
23. Coat the new 23.8 mm O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, then position it on
the bottom (B) of the pump housing.
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Fig. 24: Coating O-Ring With Power Steering Fluid

24. Coat the new cover seals (A) and (B) with power steering fluid, then position
them into the grooves on the cover (C).
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Fig. 25: Coating Cover Seals With Power Steering Fluid

25. Install the outer case (A) by aligning the slot (B) with the cover roll pin hole
(C). Be sure that the slit (D) on the outer case is positioned as shown in Fig.
26.
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Fig. 26: Installing Outer Case Aligning Slot With Cover Roll Pin Hole
26. Apply the power steering fluid to the rubber seal (E) (black), and install it in
the slot (F) of the outer case.
27. Apply power steering fluid to the slipper seal (G) (white), and install it on top
of the rubber seal you just installed.
28. Install the cam ring (A) with the "." mark (B) facing up. Align the slot (C) with
the slot (D) in the outer case.
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Fig. 27: Installing Cam Ring With Mark

29. Insert the roll pin (E) into the slots between the cam ring and outer case, then
push roll pin into the set hole (F).
30. Install the rotor (A) in the cam ring (B).
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Fig. 28: Installing Rotor In Cam Ring

31. Set the 11 vanes (C) in the grooves in the rotor.

Make sure that the round ends (D) of the vanes are in contact with the sliding
surface of the cam ring.
32. Place the side plate (A) on the cam ring, and aligning the roll pin set hole (B)
in the side plate with the roll pin end (C).
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Fig. 29: Aligning Roll Pin Set Hole In Side Plate With Roll Pin End
33. Coat the new O-ring (D) with the power steering fluid, then position it into the
groove on the side plate.
34. Install the pump housing (A) over the cover assembly (B).
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Fig. 30: Installing Pump Housing Over Cover Assembly

35. Align the bolt holes in the cover (A) with the threaded holes in the pump
housing. Install the flange bolts loosely first, then torque the flange bolts in a
criss cross pattern in two or more steps.
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Fig. 31: Aligning Bolt Holes In Cover With Threaded Holes In Pump
Housing
36. Push in the cam ring (A) from the pump housing cap hole (B) with a flat blade
screwdriver, to make sure the cam ring is fully seated against the outer case.
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Fig. 32: Pushing In Cam Ring From Pump Housing Cap Hole
37. Install the pump preload spring (A) in the pump housing.
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Fig. 33: Installing Pump Preload Spring In Pump Housing

38. Coat the new 12.7 mm O-ring (B) with power steering fluid, and install it on
the pump housing cap (C).
39. Install the pump housing cap on the pump housing, and tighten it to specified
torque.
40. Install the pressure control valve spring (A) in the pump housing.
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Fig. 34: Installing Pressure Control Valve Spring In Pump Housing

41. Coat the pressure control valve (B) with power steering fluid, and install it on
the pump housing.
42. Coat the new 16.7 mm O-ring (C) with power steering fluid, and install it on
the pressure control valve cap (D).
43. Install the pressure control valve cap on the pump housing, and tighten it to the
specified torque.
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44. Coat the new 13 mm O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, and install it on the
inlet joint (B).
Fig. 35: Coating O-ring With Power Steering Fluid

45. Install the inlet joint on the pump housing.

46. Install the pulley (A), then loosely install the pulley nut (B). Hold the power
steering pump in a vise with soft jaws (C). Be careful not to damage the pump
housing with the jaws of the vise.
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Fig. 36: Holding Power Steering Pump In Vise With Soft Jaw
47. Hold the pulley with the special tool, and tighten the pulley nut to specified
torque.
48. Check that the pump turns smoothly by turning the pulley. If it turns hard,
loosen the four flange bolts on the cover, then retightening them in the same
manner as in the step 35. Turning the pump again by hand.
STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL
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system, then write down the customer's radio station presets.
2. Align the front wheels straight ahead, then remove the driver's airbag from the
steering wheel (see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
3. Disconnect the cruise control set/resume switch, audio remote switch and
navigation guide switch connectors (if equipped).
4. Loosen the steering wheel bolt (A).
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Fig. 37: Loosening Steering Wheel Bolt

5. Install a commercially available steering wheel puller (A) on the steering wheel
(B). Free the steering wheel from the steering column shaft by turning the
pressure bolt (C) of the puller.
Note these items when removing the steering wheel:
Do not tap on the steering wheel or the steering column shaft when
removing the steering wheel.
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If you thread the puller bolts (D) into the wheel hub more than five
threads, the bolts will hit the cable reel and damage it. To prevent this,
install a pair of jam nuts five threads up on each puller bolt.
Fig. 38: Installing Commercially Steering Wheel Puller On Steering

Wheel
6. Remove the steering wheel puller, then remove the steering wheel bolt and
steering wheel from the steering column.
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Fig. 39: Removing Wheel Puller And Steering Wheel

STEERING WHEEL DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
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Fig. 40: Identifying Steering Wheel Components (4-Door)

Fig. 41: Identifying Steering Wheel Components (2-Door)

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STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION
1. Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the front wheels are aligned
straight ahead, then center the cable reel (A). Do this by first rotating the cable
reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise about three full
turns. The arrow mark (B) on the cable reel label point should point straight up.
Fig. 42: Centering Cable Reel

2. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal cancelling sleeve (B) as shown in
Fig. 43. Install the steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure
the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of
the turn signal canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering
column shaft when installing the steering wheel.
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Fig. 43: Positioning Tabs Of Turn Signal Cancelling Sleeve

3. Install the steering wheel bolt (A) and tighten it to the specified torque.
Connect the audio remote, navigation guide and cruise control set/resume
switch connectors (if equipped). Make sure the wire harness is routed and
fastened properly.
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Fig. 44: Installing Steering Wheel Bolt

4. Install the driver's airbag, and confirm that the system is operating properly
(see DRIVER'S AIRBAG REPLACEMENT ).
the customer's radio station presets. Reset the clock.
6. Check the cruise control, audio remote, navigation guide and turn signal
canceling for proper operation.
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STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
system, then write down the customer's radio station presets.
3. Remove the driver's airbag assembly and the steering wheel (see STEERING
WHEEL REMOVAL ).
4. Remove the column covers.
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6. Release the tilt/telescopic lever, and adjust the steering column to full tilt up
position, and to the full telescopic in position.
7. Tighten the tilt/telescopic lever.
8. Hold the slider shaft (A) on the column with a piece of wire (B) between the
joint yoke (C) of the slider shaft and joint yoke (D) of the upper shaft to
prevent the slider shaft from pulling out.
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Fig. 46: Holding Slider Shaft On Column With Piece Of Wire Between
Joint Yoke Of Slider Shaft And Joint Yoke
9. Release the tilt/telescopic lever, and adjust the steering column to the full
telescopic out position, then tighten the tilt/telescopic lever.
10. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from the combination switch assembly
(A).
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Fig. 47: Disconnecting Wire Harness Connectors

11. Remove the combination switch assembly from the steering column shaft by
removing the screws (B).
12. Disconnect the connectors from the ignition switch, and release the wire
harness clips from the steering column.
13. Remove the steering joint bolt (C), then disconnect the steering joint (D) from
the pinion shaft.
14. Remove the steering column (E) by removing the attaching nuts and bolts. If
the lower slide shaft (F) is removed, slip it into the upper shaft (G) by aligning
the paint or stamped marks (H).
INSTALLATION
1. Install the steering column in the reverse order of removal, and note these
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items:
Make sure the wires are not caught or pinched by any parts.
Take care not to let the sliding capsules fall out of position during column
installation.
2. Steering joint connection; center the steering rack within its stroke.
is within the range shown in Fig. 48.
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Fig. 48: Positioning Steering Column Joint

the lower end of the steering joint on to the pinion shaft (E).
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pinion shaft, and loosely install the joint bolt (C). Be sure that the joint bolt is
securely in the groove in the pinion shaft. Pull on the steering joint to make
sure that the steering joint is fully seated. Tighten the steering joint bolt to the
specified torque.
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Fig. 49: Aligning Bolt Hole On Steering Joint With Groove Around Pinion
Shaft
6. Finish the installation, and note these items:
Make sure the connectors are properly connected.
Reinstall the steering wheel (see STEERING WHEEL

INSTALLATION ).
Reconnect the battery.
Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system, then the
customer's radio station presets.
Set the clock.
Verify cruise control, audio remote, navigation guide and turn signal
switch operation.
Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
STEERING COLUMN/TILT/TELESCOPIC INSPECTION
Check the steering column ball bearing (A) and the steering joint bearings (B)
for play and proper movement. If any bearing is noisy or has excessive play,
replace the steering column as an assembly.
Check the lower side shaft (C) for smooth movement in and out. If the lower
slide shaft is removed, slip it into the upper shaft by aligning the paint or
stamped marks (D). If it sticks or binds, replace the steering column as an
assembly.
Check the sliding capsules (E) for distortion or breakage. If there is distortion
or breakage, replace the steering column as an assembly.
Check the tilt mechanism and telescopic mechanism for movement and
damage.
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Fig. 50: Inspecting Steering Column/Tilt/Telescopic

STEERING LOCK REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the steering column (see STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL AND

INSTALLATION ).
2. Center-punch each of the two shear bolts, and drill the heads of the bolts off
with a 5 mm (3/16 in.) drill bit. Be careful not to damage the switch body when
removing the shear bolts.
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Fig. 51: Center-Punch Each Shear Bolts

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3. Remove the shear bolts from the switch body.

4. Install the switch body without the key inserted.
5. Loosely tighten the new shear bolts.
6. Insert the ignition key, and check for proper operation of the steering wheel
lock and that the ignition key turns freely.
7. Tighten the shear bolts (A) until the hex heads (B) twist off.
Fig. 52: Tightening Shear Bolts Until Hex Heads Twist Off
RACK GUIDE ADJUSTMENT

Locknut wrench, 40 mm 07916-SA50001
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Fig. 53: Loosening Rack Guide Screw Locknut With Special Tool
3. Remove the old sealant from the rack guide screw (A), and apply new sealant
(Three Bond 1215 or Loctite 5699) to the middle of the threads (B). Loosely
install the rack guide screw on the steering gearbox.
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Fig. 54: Removing Old Sealant From Rack Guide Screw

it.
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Specified return angle: 10-20 max.
stationary with a wrench. Tighten the locknut an additional 30 with the special
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tool.
8. Check for unusual steering effort through the complete turning range.
9. Check the steering wheel rotation play (see STEERING WHEEL
ROTATIONAL PLAY CHECK ), and the power assist (see STEERING
WHEEL ROTATIONAL PLAY CHECK ).
STEERING GEARBOX REMOVAL

Subframe adaptor EQS02C000016 (Available through the Honda Tool and
Equipment program 888-424-6857)
Note these items during removal:
Using solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off the valve body unit, its
lines, and the end of the gearbox. Blow dry with compressed air.
Make sure to remove the steering wheel before disconnecting the steering joint.
Damage to the cable reel can occur.
1. Drain the power steering fluid. (see step 1 in Fluid Replacement ).

4. Remove the steering wheel (see STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL ).
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6. Remove the steering joint bolt (A), and disconnect the steering joint by moving
the steering joint (B) toward the column. Hold the slider shaft (C) on the
column with a piece of wire (D) between the joint yoke (E) on the slider shaft
to the joint yoke on the upper shaft (see STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION ).
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Fig. 57: Removing Steering Joint Bolt

7. Remove the steering joint cover B. Be careful not to damage the mating
surface on the joint cover B and pinion shaft grommet. Replace the cover seal
(A) if necessary.
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Fig. 58: Replacing Cover Seal

8. Remove and discard the cotter pin (A) from the tie-rod ball joint nut (B), then
loosen the nut.
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Fig. 59: Removing Cotter Pin From Tie-Rod Ball Joint Nut
9. Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle using the special tool (see BALL
JOINT REMOVAL ).
10. Remove the P/S heat baffle plate (A).
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Fig. 60: Removing P/S Heat Baffle Plate

11. Remove the feed line holder mounting bolt (A) on the front suspension
subframe.
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Fig. 61: Removing Feed Line Holder Mounting Bolt On Front Suspension
Subframe
12. Remove the feed line holder mounting bolt (B) and return hose (C) from the
gearbox mounting bracket (D).
13. Place several shop towels under the line connections, and cover the gearbox
mounting part to protect it from the power steering fluid. Loosen the flare nut
(A), and disconnect the feed line (B).
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Fig. 62: Loosening Flare Nut And Disconnecting Feed Line

14. Loosen the flare nut (C), and disconnect the return line (D).
15. After disconnecting the lines, plug or seal them with a piece of tape or
equivalent to prevent foreign materials from entering.
NOTE: Do not loosen the cylinder line A and B between the

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valve body unit and the cylinder.
16. Attach the special tool to the front suspension subframe (A) with hanging the
hook of the special tool over the front of the subframe, then tighten the special
tool screw.
Fig. 63: Attaching Special Tool To Front Suspension Subframe With

Hanging Hook
17. Raise the jack (B) and line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the
corner of the jack base, then attach them with bolts securely.
18. Remove the front suspension subframe right middle mount bolts (A).
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Fig. 64: Removing Front Suspension Subframe Right Middle Mount Bolts
19. Remove the front suspension subframe left middle mount (A).
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Fig. 65: Removing Front Suspension Subframe Left Middle Mount

20. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolts on the left gearbox mount, and
remove the steering stiffener plate (A).
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Fig. 66: Removing Steering Stiffener Plate

21. Remove the front suspension subframe rear bracket (A) mounting bolt (B).
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Fig. 67: Removing Front Suspension Subframe Rear Bracket Mounting

Bolt
22. Loosen the two front suspension subframe rear bracket mounting bolts (C) on
right and left, and slowly lower the jack supporting subframe (D) with special
tool until the subframe has dropped 30 mm (1 1/8 in.) total.
23. Remove the two flange bolts from the right side of the gearbox, then remove
the gearbox mounting bracket (A) and cushion (B).
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Fig. 68: Removing Gearbox Mounting Bracket And Cushion

24. Move the steering gearbox toward the front, and remove the pinion shaft
grommet (A) from the top of the valve body unit.
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Fig. 69: Removing Pinion Shaft Grommet

25. Apply vinyl tape (B) to the splines on the pinion shaft.
26. Apply vinyl tape or equivalent material (A) to the brake lines (B) to protect
them from the pinion shaft.
Fig. 70: Applying Vinyl Tape Or Equivalent Material To Brake Lines

27. Move the steering gearbox to the driver's side, and rotate it so the pinion shaft
points toward the front of the vehicle.
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Fig. 71: Moving Steering Gearbox To Driver'S Side

28. Carefully move the steering gearbox as an assembly toward the driver's side of
the vehicle until the pinion shaft clears the wheelwell opening. Be careful not
to damage the brake lines with the pinion shaft.
29. Remove the steering gearbox through the wheelwell opening on the driver's
side.
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Fig. 72: Removing Steering Gearbox Through Wheelwell Opening On

Driver's Side
30. After removing the steering gearbox, make sure that no power steering fluid
gets on the gearbox mount cushions, gearbox housing, surface of the subframe
and stiffener. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
STEERING GEARBOX OVERHAUL
Exploded View
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Fig. 73: Exploded View Of Steering Gearbox


Cylinder end seal remover attachment 07NAD-SR3020A
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Pilot collar 07GAF-PH70100

Valve seal ring sizing tool 07NAG-SR3090A
Ball joint boot clip guide 07974-SA50800
Sleeve seal ring sizing tool 07974-SA5020A or 07974-SA50200
Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100
Driver 07749-0010000
Piston seal ring guide 07HAG-SF10100
Piston seal ring sizing tool 07HAG-SF1020A or 07HAG-SF10200
Cylinder end seal slider 07ZAG-S5A0300
Pincers Oetiker 1098 or equivalent, commercially available
NOTE: Refer to the Fig. 73 as needed .
Removal
Disassembly
2. Remove the boot bands (A) and tie-rod clips (B). Pull the boot away from the
ends of the steering gearbox.
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Fig. 74: Removing Boot Bands And Tie-Rod Clips

3. Unbend the lock washer (A).
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Fig. 75: Unbending Lock Washer

4. Hold the flat surface sections (A) of the steering rack with a wrench (B), and
unscrew both rack ends (C) with a wrench (D). Be careful not to damage the
rack surface with the wrench.
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Fig. 76: Holding Flat Surface Sections Of Steering Rack With Wrench
5. Remove the lock washer (E) and stop rubber (F).
6. Loosen the locknut (A), then remove the rack guide screw (B).
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Fig. 77: Loosening Locknut And Remove Rack Guide Screw

7. Remove the spring (C) and the rack guide (D) from the gearbox housing.
8. Remove the cylinder lines from the gearbox.
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Fig. 78: Removing Cylinder Lines From Gearbox

9. Drain the fluid from the cylinder fittings by slowly moving the steering rack
back and forth.
10. Remove the two flange bolts, then remove the valve body unit (A) from the
gearbox (B). Remove the O-ring (C), and discard it.
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Fig. 79: Removing Valve Body Unit From Gearbox

11. Drill a 3 mm (0.12 in.) diameter hole about 2.5-3.0 mm (0.10-0.12 in.) in depth
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in the staked point (A) on the cylinder. Do not allow metal shavings to enter
the cylinder housing. After removing the cylinder end (B), remove any burrs at
the staked point.
Fig. 80: Removing Burrs At Staked Point

12. Hold the gearbox housing using a C-clamp (commercially available) (A) and
the wooden blocks (B) as shown in Fig. 81. Do not clamp the cylinder part of
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the housing or gearbox housing in the vise. Then remove the cylinder end (C).
Fig. 81: Holding Gearbox Housing Using C-Clamp And Wooden Blocks
13. Install a commercially available bearing separator (A) in the gearbox housing
as shown in Fig. 82.
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Fig. 82: Installing Commercially Available Bearing Separator In Gearbox

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Housing
14. Place an appropriate size deep socket wrench (B) on the steering rack (C).
15. Set the steering gearbox in a press so the gearbox housing side points upward,
then press the cylinder end seal (D) and steering rack out of the gearbox. Hold
the steering rack to keep it from falling when pressed clear. Be careful not to
damage the inner surface of the cylinder housing with the tool.
16. Install the special tool so it will fit through the rack guide hole of the gearbox
housing. Insert a 24" long, 3/8" drive extension (A), and install it on the special
tool. Make sure the special tool is securely positioned on the backup ring
edges. Be careful not to damage the inner surface of the cylinder with the
special tool.
Fig. 83: Inserting Drive Extension On Special Tool

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17. Place the steering gearbox in a press, then remove the cylinder end seal (A) and
backup ring (B) from the gearbox by pressing on the 24" long, 3/8" drive
extension.
Note these items when pressing the cylinder end seal:

Keep the tool straight to avoid damaging the cylinder wall. Check the tool
angle, and correct it if necessary, when removing the cylinder end seal.
Use a press to remove the cylinder end seal. Do not try to remove the seal
by striking the tool; striking the tool could brake the backup ring, and the
cylinder end seal would remain in the gearbox.
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Fig. 84: Removing Cylinder End Seal Using Press

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18. Carefully pry the piston seal ring (A) and O-ring (B) off the rack piston. Be
careful not to damage the inside of the seal ring groove and piston edges when
removing the seal ring.
Fig. 85: Prying Piston Seal Ring And O-Ring Off Rack Piston
19. Before removing the valve housing (A), apply vinyl tape (B) to the splines on
the pinion shaft.
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Fig. 86: Applying Vinyl Tape To Splines On Pinion Shaft

20. Separate the valve housing from the pinion shaft/valve using a press.
21. With your finger, check the inner wall of the valve housing where the seal ring
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slides. If there is a step in the wall, the housing is worn. Replace it.
NOTE: There may be sliding marks from the seal ring on the
wall of the valve housing. Replace the valve housing
only if the wall is stepped.
Fig. 87: Checking Inner Wall Of Valve Housing With Finger

22. Check for wear, burrs, and other damage to the edges of the grooves in the
sleeve.
NOTE: The pinion shaft and sleeve are a precision matched

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set. If either the pinion shaft or sleeve must be

replaced, replace both parts as a set.
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Fig. 88: Checking Wear, Burrs And Other Damage To Edges Of Grooves
In Sleeve
23. Remove the snap ring (A) and sleeve (B) from the pinion shaft.
Fig. 89: Removing Snap Ring And Sleeve From Pinion Shaft
24. Using a cutter or an equivalent tool, cut and remove the four seal rings from
the sleeve. Be careful not to damage the edges of the sleeve grooves and outer
surface when removing the seal rings.
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Fig. 90: Removing Four Seal Rings From Sleeve

25. Using a cutter or an equivalent tool, cut the valve seal ring (A) and O-ring (B)
at the cutting groove position (C) in the pinion shaft. Remove the valve seal
ring and O-ring. Be careful not to damage the edges of the pinion shaft groove
and outer surface when removing the valve seal ring and O-ring.
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Fig. 91: Cutting Valve Seal Ring And O-Ring At Cutting Groove Position
In Pinion Shaft
26. Remove the valve oil seal (A) and wave washer (B) from the pinion shaft.
Note these items during disassembly:
Inspect the ball bearing (C) by rotating the outer race slowly. If there is
any excessive play or wear, replace the pinion shaft and sleeve as an
assembly.
The pinion shaft and sleeve are a precise fit; do not intermix old and new
pinion shafts and sleeves.
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Fig. 92: Removing Valve Oil Seal And Wave Washer From Pinion Shaft
27. Press the valve oil seal (A) and roller bearing (B) out of the valve housing
using a hydraulic press and special tool.
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Fig. 93: Pressing Valve Oil Seal And Roller Bearing Out Of Valve Housing
Do not dip rubber parts in the solvent.
Reassembly
29. Apply vinyl tape (A) to the stepped portion of the pinion shaft, and coat the
surface of the vinyl tape with power steering fluid.
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Fig. 94: Applying Vinyl Tape To Stepped Portion Of Pinion Shaft

30. Install the wave washer (B).

31. Coat the inside surface of the new valve oil seal (C) with power steering fluid,
and install the seal with its grooved side facing opposite the bearing, then slide
it over the pinion shaft, being careful not to damage its sealing lip (D).
32. Apply vinyl tape (A) to the splines and stepped portion of the shaft, and coat
the surface of the vinyl tape with power steering fluid.
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Fig. 95: Applying Vinyl Tape To Splines And Stepped Portion Of Shaft
33. Fit the new O-ring (B) in the groove of the pinion shaft. Then slide the new
valve seal ring (C) over the shaft and in the groove on the pinion shaft.
34. Remove the tape, and apply power steering fluid to the surface of the valve seal
ring (A).
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Fig. 96: Applying Power Steering Fluid To Surface Of Valve Seal Ring
35. Apply power steering fluid to the inside of the special tool. Set the larger
diameter end of the special tool over the valve seal ring, and move the special
tool up and down several times to make the valve seal ring fit in the pinion
shaft groove.
36. Remove the special tool, turn it over, slide the smaller diameter end over the
valve seal ring. Move it up and down several times to make the valve seal ring
fits snugly in the pinion shaft groove.
37. Apply power steering fluid to the surface of the special tool. Slip two new seal
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rings (A) over the special tool from the smaller diameter end, and expand them.
Install only two rings at a time from each end of the pinion shaft sleeve (B).
Note these items when installing the seal ring:

Do not over-expand the seal ring. Install the resin seal rings with care so
as not to damage them. After installation, make sure you contract the seal
rings using the special tool (sizing tool).
There are two types of sleeve seal rings: black and brown. Do not mix the
different types of rings as they are not compatible.
Fig. 97: Slipping Seal Rings Over Special Tool

38. Align the special tool with each groove in the sleeve, and slide a sleeve seal
ring into each groove. After installation, compress the seal rings with your
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fingers temporarily.
39. Apply power steering fluid to the seal rings on the sleeve, and to the entire
inside surface of the special tool, then slowly insert the sleeve into the special
tool.
Fig. 98: Applying Power Steering Fluid To Seal Rings On Sleeve

40. Move the sleeve back and forth several times to make the seal rings snugly fit
in the sleeve. Make sure the seal rings are not twisted.
41. Apply power steering fluid to the surface of the pinion shaft (A). Slide the
sleeve (B) onto the pinion shaft by aligning the locating pin (C) on the inside of
the sleeve with the cutout (D) in the shaft. Then install the new snap ring (E)
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securely in the pinion shaft groove. Be careful not to damage the valve seal
ring when inserting the sleeve.
Fig. 99: Applying Power Steering Fluid To Surface Of Pinion Shaft

42. Apply power steering fluid to the seal ring lip of the new valve oil seal (A),
then install the seal in the valve housing (B) using a hydraulic press and special
tools. Install the seal with its grooved side facing the tool.
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Fig. 100: Applying Power Steering Fluid To Seal Ring Lip Of Valve Oil
Seal
43. Press the roller bearing (C) into the valve housing with a hydraulic press and
special tool.
44. Apply vinyl tape (A) to the pinion shaft, then coat the vinyl tape with power
steering fluid.
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Fig. 101: Applying Vinyl Tape To Pinion Shaft, Then Coat Vinyl Tape
With Power Steering Fluid
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45. Insert the pinion shaft into the valve housing (B). Be careful not to damage the
valve seal rings (C) and valve oil seal sealing lip (D).
46. Remove the vinyl tape from the pinion shaft, then remove any residue from the
tape adhesive.
47. Press the pinion shaft/sleeve into the valve housing with a hydraulic press.
Check that the pinion shaft/sleeve turns smoothly by hand after installing it.
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Fig. 102: Pressing Pinion Shaft/Sleeve Into Valve Housing With Hydraulic
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Press
48. Coat the special tool with power steering fluid, then slide it onto the rack, big
end first.
49. Position the new O-ring (A) and new piston seal ring (B) on the special tool,
then slide them down toward the big end of the tool.

Do not over expand the resin seal rings. Install the resin seal rings with
care so as not to damage them. After installation, make sure you contract
the seal ring using the special tool (sizing tool).
Replace the piston's O-ring and seal ring as a set.
Fig. 103: Positioning O-ring And Piston Seal Ring On Special Tool
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50. Pull the O-ring off into the piston groove, then pull the piston seal ring off into
the piston groove on top of the O-ring.
51. Coat the piston seal ring (A) and the inside of the special tool with power
steering fluid, then carefully slide the tool onto the rack and over the piston
seal ring.
Fig. 104: Coating Piston Seal Ring And Inside Of Special Tool With Power
Steering Fluid
52. Move the special tool back and forth several times to make sure the piston seal
ring fits snugly in the piston.
53. Coat the sliding surface of the special tool (A) and new cylinder end seal (B)
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with power steering fluid. Place the seal on the special tool with its grooved
side (C) facing opposite the special tool.
Fig. 105: Coating Sliding Surface Of Special Tool And Cylinder End Seal
54. Coat the surface of the steering rack (A) with power steering fluid.
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Fig. 106: Coating Surface Of Steering Rack With Power Steering Fluid
55. Install the cylinder end seal (B) onto the steering rack with its grooved side (C)
toward the piston (D).
56. Separate the cylinder end seal from the special tool, then remove the special
tool.
57. Install the new backup ring (A) on the steering rack, then place the backup ring
and cylinder end seal (B) against the piston (C).
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Fig. 107: Installing Backup Ring On Steering Rack

58. Apply multipurpose grease to the steering rack teeth, then insert the steering
rack into the gearbox housing. Be careful not to damage the inner surface of
the cylinder wall with the rack edges.
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Fig. 108: Applying Multipurpose Grease To Steering Rack Teeth

59. Insert an appropriate size deep socket wrench (A) onto the steering rack as
shown in Fig. 109.
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Fig. 109: Inserting Appropriate Size Deep Socket Wrench Onto Steering
Rack
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60. Install the cylinder end seal (B) into the bottom of the cylinder by pressing on
the tool with a press. Do not push on the tool with excessive force as it may
damage the cylinder end seal.
61. Remove the tool, and center the steering rack.
62. Coat the sliding surface of the special tool (A) and new cylinder end seal (B)
with power steering fluid. Place the seal on the special tool with its grooved
side (C) facing opposite the special tool.
Fig. 110: Coating Sliding Surface Of Special Tool & Cylinder End Seal
63. Coat the inside surface of the special tool and steering rack with power steering
fluid, then install the cylinder end seal (A) onto the steering rack with its
grooved side toward the cylinder.
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Fig. 111: Installing Cylinder End Seal Onto Steering Rack

64. Separate the cylinder end seal from the special tool, then remove the special
tool.
65. Push in the cylinder end seal with your finger. Be careful not to damage the
face of the seal with the threads and burrs at the staked position of the cylinder
housing.
66. Hold the gearbox housing using a C-clamp (commercially available) (A) and
the wooden blocks (B). Do not clamp the cylinder part of the housing and
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gearbox housing in the vise.
Fig. 112: Holding Gearbox Housing Using C-Clamp And Wooden Blocks
67. Coat the inside surface of the cylinder end (A) with power steering fluid, then
install the cylinder end by screwing it into the cylinder (B). Tighten the
cylinder end to the specified torque.
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Fig. 113: Coating Inside Surface Of Cylinder End With Power Steering
Fluid
68. Stake the point of the cylinder show (opposite from where the stake was
removed during disassembly).
69. Coat the new O-ring (A) with multipurpose grease, and carefully fit it on the
valve housing.
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Fig. 114: Coating O-Ring With Multipurpose Grease

70. Apply multipurpose grease to the needle bearing (B) in the gearbox housing,
then install the valve body unit (C) by engaging the gears. Note the valve body
unit installation position (direction of the line connections).
71. Tighten the flange bolts (D) to the specified torque.
72. Install the cylinder lines.
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Thoroughly clean the joints of the cylinder lines. The joints must be free
of foreign material.
Install the cylinder lines by tightening the flare nuts by hand first, then
tighten the flare nuts to the specified torque.
Fig. 115: Installing Cylinder Lines

73. Apply multipurpose grease to the sliding surface and circumference of the rack
guide (A), and install it onto the gearbox housing.
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Fig. 116: Applying Multipurpose Grease To Sliding Surface And

Circumference Of Rack Guide
74. Apply new sealant (Three Bond 1215 or Loctite 5699) to the middle of the
threads on the rack guide screw (B), then install the spring (C) and rack guide
screw.
75. Tighten the rack guide screw, and loosely install the locknut (D).
76. Adjust the rack guide screw (see RACK GUIDE ADJUSTMENT ). After
adjusting, check that the rack moves smoothly by sliding it right and left.
77. Install a new stop rubber (A) and a new lock washer (B). Align the lock washer
tabs (C) with the slots (D) on the rack end (E) while holding the lock washer in
place. Repeat this step for the other side of the rack.
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Fig. 117: Installing Stop Rubber & Lock Washer

78. Hold the flat surface sections of the steering rack with a wrench, and tighten
both rack ends. Be careful not to damage the rack surface with the wrench.
79. Bend the lock washer (A) back against the flat spots on the rack end joint
housing.
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Fig. 118: Bending Lock Washer Back Against Flat Spots On Rack End
Joint Housing
80. Apply multipurpose grease to the circumference of the rack end joint housing
(A).
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Fig. 119: Applying Multipurpose Grease To Circumference Of Rack End

Joint Housing
81. Apply a light coat of silicone grease to the boot grooves (B) on the rack ends.
83. Clean off any grease or contamination from the boot installation grooves (A)
around the gearbox housing. Install the boots (B) on the rack ends with the tie-
rod clips (C), and fit the boot end in the installation grooves in the housing
properly.
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Fig. 120: Cleaning Off Boot Installation Grooves Around Gearbox

Housing
84. After installing the boots, wipe any grease off the threaded section (D) of the
rack end.
85. Install the new boot bands by aligning the tabs (A) with the holes (B) of the
band.
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Fig. 121: Installing Boot Bands By Aligning Tabs With Holes Of Band
86. Close the ear portion (A) of the band (B) with commercially available pincers,
Oetiker 1098 or equivalent (C).
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Fig. 122: Closing Ear Portion Of Band With Commercially Available

Pincers
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87. Slide the rack right and left to be certain that the boots are not deformed or
twisted.
STEERING GEARBOX INSTALLATION
Subframe adaptor EOS02C000016
1. Before installing the steering gearbox, make sure that no power steering fluid is
on the mating surface of the gearbox and a front suspension subframe. To
prevent the gearbox mounting bolts from loosening after the installation,
remove any power steering fluid from the mount cushions and bolt holes.
2. Apply a mild soap and water solution to both sides of the mount cushion
mating surfaces (A).
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Fig. 123: Applying Mild Soap And Water Solution To Both Sides Of
Mount Cushion Mating Surfaces
3. Pass the cylinder of the steering gearbox (B) through the wheelwell opening on
the driver's side.
4. Carefully move the steering gearbox toward the passenger's side until the
pinion shaft clears the wheelwell opening on the body.
5. Rotate the steering gearbox so the pinion shaft (A) points upward.
Fig. 124: Rotating Steering Gearbox So Pinion Shaft Points Upward

6. Continue moving the gearbox toward the passenger's side until the steering
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gearbox is in position. Make sure the power steering return line and feed line
are routed above the gearbox.
7. Remove the vinyl tape from the pinion shaft, and install the pinion shaft
grommet (A). Align the slot in the pinion shaft grommet with the lug portion
(B) on the valve housing.
Fig. 125: Installing Pinion Shaft Grommet

8. Position the cutout (A) on the mounting cushion (B) as shown in Fig. 126, and
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install it on the cylinder of the gearbox securely.
Fig. 126: Positioning Cutout On Mounting Cushion

9. Install the gearbox mounting bracket (C) over the mounting cushion, and
loosely install the two flange bolts.
10. Install the steering stiffener plate (A) and gearbox mounting bolts on the left
side of the gearbox, then tighten them to the specified torque.
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Fig. 127: Installing Steering Stiffener Plate And Gearbox Mounting Bolts
On Left Side Of Gearbox
11. Tighten the flange bolts on the right side of the gearbox to specified torque
alternately in two or more steps.
12. Loosely connect the return line and feed line by hand.
13. Install the feed line holder (A) and return hose (B) on the gearbox mounting
bracket (C)
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Fig. 128: Installing Feed Line Holder And Return Hose On Gearbox
Mounting Bracket
14. Install the feed line holder (D) on the front suspension subframe. Make sure
that there is no interference between the feed and return lines and any other
parts.
15. Tighten the return line flare nut (A) to the specified torque.
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Fig. 129: Tightening Return Line Flare Nut

16. Tighten the feed line flare nut (B) to the specified torque.
17. Raise the jack supporting front suspension subframe (A) with special tool until
the subframe is in position (see FRONT SUBFRAME ALIGNMENT ).
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Fig. 130: Raising Jack Supporting Front Suspension Subframe With

Special Tool Until Subframe Is In Position
18. Install the front suspension subframe rear bracket (B) mounting bolt (C), then
tighten new subframe mounting bolt (D) to the specified torque.
19. Install the front suspension subframe left middle mount (A).
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Fig. 131: Installing Front Suspension Subframe Left Middle Mount

20. Install the front suspension subframe right middle mount bolts (A).
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Fig. 132: Installing Front Suspension Subframe Right Middle Mount Bolts
21. Install the P/S heat baffle plate (A).
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Fig. 133: Installing P/S Heat Baffle Plate

22. Wipe off any grease from the ball joint tapered section and threads. Then
reconnect the tie-rod end (A) to the knuckle arms.
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Fig. 134: Reconnecting Tie-Rod End To Knuckle Arms

23. Install the tie-rod end ball joint nut, and tighten it to the specified torque. Then
install the new cotter pin (B), and bend it as shown in Fig. 134 (C) or (D).
24. Install the new cover seal (A) all the way around in the steering joint cover B.
Make sure there are no wrinkles in the seal, then install the steering joint cover
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B.
Fig. 135: Installing Cover Seal All Way Around In Steering Joint Cover

is within the range shown in Fig. 136.
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Fig. 136: Positioning Steering Column Joint So Bolt Opposite To Notch

the lower end of the steering joint on to pinion shaft (E).
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pinion shaft, and loosely install the joint bolt (C). Make sure the joint bolt is
securely in the groove in the pinion shaft. Pull on the steering joint to make
sure the steering joint is fully seated.
Fig. 137: Aligning Bolt Hole On Steering Joint With Groove Around
Pinion Shaft
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29. Tighten the steering joint bolt to the specified torque.
30. Install the steering joint cover A.
Fig. 138: Installing Steering Joint Cover

31. Install the front wheels, then set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
points straight up. Reinstall the steering wheel (see STEERING WHEEL
INSTALLATION ).
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33. Fill the system with power steering fluid, and bleed air from the system (see
FLUID REPLACEMENT ).
34. After installation, do the following checks.
Start the engine, allow it to idle, and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock several times to warm up to the fluid. Check the gearbox for leaks
(see FLUID LEAKAGE INSPECTION ).
Do the front toe inspection (see WHEEL ALIGNMENT ).
Check the steering wheel spoke angle. If steering spoke angles to the right
and left are not equal (steering wheel and rack are not centered), correct
the engagement of the joint/pinion shaft serrations, and repeat step 31.
Then adjust the front toe by turning the tie-rod ends, if necessary.
TIE-ROD BALL JOINT BOOT REPLACEMENT
Front hub dis/assembly tool 07965-SA50500

1. Remove the boot from the tie-rod end, and wipe the old grease off the ball pin.
2. Pack the lower area of the ball pin (A) with fresh multipurpose grease.
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Fig. 139: Packing Lower Area Of Ball Pin With Fresh Multipurpose
Grease
3. Pack the interior of the new boot (B) and lip (C) with fresh multipurpose
grease.
Note these items when installing new grease:
Keep grease off the boot mounting area (D) and the tapered section (E) of

the ball pin.
Do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the boot.
4. Install the new boot (A) using the special tool. The boot must not have a gap at
the boot installation sections (B). After installing the boot, check the ball pin
tapered section for grease contamination, and wipe it if necessary.
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Fig. 140: Installing Boot Using Special Tool

GEARBOX MOUNT CUSHION REPLACEMENT

2. Position the 34 mm socket wrench (A) on the flange part of the gearbox
housing with a washer (B), 10 x 105 mm flange bolt (C) and the 10 mm nut
(D) as shown in Fig. 141.
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Fig. 141: Positioning Socket Wrench On Flange Part Of Gearbox Housing

With Washer
3. Hold the flange bolt with a wrench, and tighten the nut with a wrench. Remove
the gearbox mount cushion (E).
4. Apply a mild soap and water solution to the new gearbox mount cushion
surface (A), then place it on the gearbox mounting cushion hole.
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Fig. 142: Applying Mild Soap And Water Solution To Gearbox Mount
Cushion Surface
5. Position the 34 mm socket wrench on the flange part of the gearbox housing
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with a washer, flange bolt, and the nut as shown in Fig. 142.
6. Install the gearbox mount cushion by tightening the nut until the mount
cushion edges (B) properly fit on the gearbox flange surface.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Power Windows - Accord
Power Windows - Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Power Windows Components

SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
KEY CYLINDER OPERATION
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2007 Honda Accord
With the key inserted in the driver's door key cylinder, turn the key a second time
and hold within 10 seconds to operate the windows (clockwise to open,
counterclockwise to close). The windows stop moving when the key is released.
NOTE: Anti-trap will not work when door key cylinder switch is
used to close the windows.
KEYLESS OPERATION
By pressing the UNLOCK button of the keyless transmitter a second time and
holding, the windows open. The windows stop moving when the UNLOCK button
is released. The windows do not close with the LOCK button.
ANTI-TRAP POWER WINDOW OPERATION
The system is composed of the power window master switch, the power window
master switch and the driver's window motor. The power window motor
incorporates a pulser which generates pulses during the motor's operation and sends
the pulses to the power window control unit. As soon as the power window master
switch detects no pulses from the pulser, the control unit makes the power window
motor stop and reverse. This is to prevent pinching your hand or fingers during
auto-up operation.
Fig. 2: Identifying Anti-Trap Power Window Operation

RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT
RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW IS REQUIRED WHEN ANY OF THE FOLLOWING HAVE
BEEN REMOVED OR REPAIRED
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Power window regulator

Power window motor
Window run channel
Door glass
Using the HDS
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the vehicle's DLC.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), then enter the vehicle's VIN and mileage at
the prompts.
3. Select Body Electrical from the System Selection menu.
4. From the Body Electrical System Select menu, select Power Windows.
5. From the Mode menu, select Adjustments.
6. From the Adjustment menu, select Window P Reset.
7. Follow the prompts on the screen.
8. Confirm that the power window master switch is reset by using the driver's
window AUTO UP and DOWN function.
RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW
Without the HDS

2. Move the driver's window all the way down by using the driver's window
DOWN switch.
3. Open the driver's door.
NOTE: steps 4 - 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each

other.
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Fig. 3: Resetting Power Window - Without HDS


5. Push and hold the driver's window DOWN switch.
7. Release the driver's window DOWN switch.
8. Repeat steps 4 - 7 three more times.
9. Wait 1 second.
10. Confirm that AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If AUTO UP and
DOWN work, go back to step 1.
11. Move the driver's window all the way down by holding the driver's window
DOWN switch to the AUTO DOWN position.
12. Pull up and hold the driver's window UP switch to the AUTO UP position until
the window reaches the fully closed position, then continue to hold the switch
for 1 second.
13. Confirm that the power window master switch is reset by using the driver's
window AUTO UP and DOWN function.
If the window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times,
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paying close attention to the 5 second time limit between steps. If it still does
not work, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see
A ).
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
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Fig. 4: Power Window Circuit Diagram (1 Of 2)

Fig. 5: Power Window Circuit Diagram (2 Of 2)

MASTER SWITCH INPUT TEST
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1. Before testing the power windows, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated

control system using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see
A ).
3. Disconnect the 23P connector (A) from the power window switch (B).
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Fig. 6: Disconnecting 23P Connector From Power Window Switch

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contact.
recheck the system.
5. Reconnect the 23P connector to the switch.

6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) to keep the system awake and perform the
following input tests.
system.
MASTER SWITCH TROUBLESHOOTING

Possible cause
Test: Desired
Cavity Wire Test condition if result is not
result
obtained
Faulty
Check for power
voltage to window
Ignition switch ground: There master
6 RED/WHT
ON (II) should be switch
battery Short to
voltage. ground in
the wire
Faulty
power
Check for
window
voltage to
Under all master
2 BLK ground: There
conditions switch
should be 1 V
Poor
or less.
ground
(G601)
Blown No.
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23 (P/W)
(50 A) fuse
in the
under-hood
fuse/relay
box
Check for Blown No.
voltage to 27 (20 A)
Under all ground: There fuse in the
10 GRN/WHT under-dash
conditions should be
battery fuse/relay
voltage. box
Faulty
under-dash
fuse/relay
box
An open in
the wire
Blown No.
21 (7.5 A)
fuse in the
Ignition switch ground: There box
20 YEL
ON (II) should be Faulty
battery under-dash
voltage. fuse/relay
box
An open in
the wire
Blown No.
7 (10 A)
fuse in the
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ground: There box
should be Faulty
(1) Under all battery under-dash
15 WHT/RED voltage.
conditions fuse/relay
box
An open in
the wire
Check for Poor
voltage to ground
Under all
1 BLK ground: There (G601)
conditions
should be less An open in
than 1 V. the wire
Check for
voltage
between the
No. 4 and No. Blown No.
2 terminals: 21 (7.5 A)
Ignition switch There should fuse in the
ON (II), and be 0 V-about 5 under-dash
4 BLU the driver's V-0 V-about 5 fuse/relay
window switch V repeatedly box
AUTO DOWN (a digital Blown No.
voltmeter 27 (20 A)
reads about 2.5 fuse in the
V while the under-dash
window fuse/relay
moves). box
Check for Faulty
voltage power
between the window
No. 17 and No. master
2 terminals: switch
Ignition switch There should Short to
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ON (II), and be 0 V-about 5 ground in

the driver's V-0 V-about 5 the wire
window switch V repeatedly Faulty
AUTO DOWN (a digital driver's
17 ORN voltmeter window
reads about 2.5 motor
V while the
window
moves).
Faulty
driver's
door key
Check for cylinder
Driver's door
voltage to switch
key cylinder
ground: There
switch in Poor
should be 1 V
UNLOCK ground
or less.
(G501)
An open in
21 WHT the wire
Check for
Driver's door
voltage to
key cylinder Short to
ground: There
switch in ground
should be
neutral Faulty
about 5 V.
Check for driver's

Driver's door door key
voltage to
key cylinder cylinder
ground: There
switch in switch
should be
LOCK
about 5 V.
Faulty
driver's
door key
Driver's door Check for cylinder
key cylinder voltage to switch
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switch in ground: There Poor

LOCK should be 1 V ground
or less. (G501)
An open in
the wire
Check for
Driver's door
voltage to
8 WHT/RED key cylinder Short to
ground: There
switch in ground
should be
neutral Faulty
about 5 V.
Check for driver's

Driver's door door key
voltage to
key cylinder cylinder
ground: There
switch in switch
should be
UNLOCK
about 5 V.
(1) '05-06 models
NOTE: Reference voltage is approximately 5 V when system is

awake. The voltage drops to 0.8 V when the system
goes into sleep mode.
7. Disconnect the 22P connector from the power window master switch, and
make these input tests at the connector.
system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the
power window master switch.
MASTER SWITCH TROUBLESHOOTING
Possible cause if
Test Test: Desired
Cavity Wire result is not
condition result
obtained
Blown No.
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23 (P/W) (50
A) fuse in
Connect the under-
terminal No. 3 hood
to ground. fuse/relay
Check for box.
voltage at Faulty
Under all under-dash power
3 WHT/GRN window
conditions fuse/relay box
No. 26 (20 A) relay
fuse: There Faulty
should be under-dash
battery fuse/relay
voltage. box
An open in
the wire
Connect the
No. 10 and Check the
Blown No.
No. 11 driver's
27 (20 A)
terminals with window motor
11 RED/YEL fuse in the
a jumper wire, operation: The
under-dash
and No. 23 window should
fuse/relay
terminal to go down.
box
body ground.
Faulty
Connect the
driver's
No. 10 and Check for
power
No. 23 driver's
window
terminals with window motor
23 RED/BLK motor
and No. 11 window should An open in
terminal to go up. the wire
body ground.
Poor ground
Connect the Check the (G503)
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No. 10 and front Blown No.

No. 9 passenger's 26 (20 A)
terminals with window motor fuse in the
9 BLU/WHT a jumper wire, operation: The under-dash
and the No. 3 window should fuse/relay
terminal to go down. box
body ground. Faulty front
passenger's
power
Connect the window
Check the
No. 10 and switch
front
No. 18 Faulty front
passenger's
terminals with passenger's
18 BLU/RED window motor
a jumper wire, power
operation: The
and the No. 3 window
window should
terminal to motor
go up.
body ground.
An open in
the wire
Poor ground
Connect the
(G601)
No. 10 and Check the left
No. 13 rear window Blown No.
(1) terminals with motor 24 (20 A)
13 BRN/WHT fuse in the
and the No. 3 window should under-dash
terminal to go up. fuse/relay
body ground. box
Faulty left
rear power
Connect the window
No. 10 and Check the left switch
(1) BRN
19 No. 19 rear window Faulty left
terminals with motor rear power
a jumper wire, operation: The window
and the No. 3 window should motor
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terminal to go down. An open in

body ground. the wire
Poor ground
Connect the
(G602)
No. 10 and Check the right
No. 12 rear window Blown No.
terminals with motor 25 (20 A)
(1) BLU/ORN
12 a jumper wire, operation: The fuse in the
and the No. 3 window should under-dash
terminal to go up. fuse/relay
body ground. box
Faulty right
rear power
Connect the window
No. 10 and Check the right switch
No. 14 rear window
Faulty right
(1) terminals with motor
14 BRN/YEL rear power
window
and the No. 3 window should
motor
terminal to go down.
body ground. An open in
the wire
(1) 4-door
DRIVER'S WINDOW MOTOR TEST

MOTOR TEST

2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the window motor.
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Fig. 7: Disconnecting 6P Connector From Window Motor

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3. Test the motor in each direction by connecting battery power and ground
according to the table shown below. When the motor stops running, disconnect
one lead immediately.
Fig. 8: Connecting Battery Power And Ground Table

4. If the motor does not run or fails to run smoothly, replace it.
Pulser Test
5. Reconnect the 6P connector to the window motor.

6. Check for voltage between the terminals.
There should be battery voltage between the No. 6 (+) and No. 5 (-)
terminals when the ignition switch is ON (II).
Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 2 (+) and No. 5 (-)
terminals, and run the window motor down or up. The voltmeter needle
should move back and forth alternately (a digital voltmeter should show
the average voltage between 0-5 V).
Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 3 (+) and No. 5 (-)
terminals, and run the window motor at down or up. The voltmeter needle
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should move back and forth alternately.

If the voltage is not as specified, replace the driver's window motor.
PASSENGER'S WINDOW MOTOR TEST
1. Remove the passenger's door panel.

2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the window motor.
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Fig. 9: Disconnecting 6P Connector From Window Motor

3. Test the motor by connecting battery power and ground according to the table
shown below. When the motor stops running, disconnect one lead immediately.
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Fig. 10: Connecting Battery Power And Battery Table

4. If the motor does not run or fails to run smoothly, replace it.
MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT
1. Carefully pry off the driver's door switch trim.

2. Disconnect the power mirror and power window switch connectors (A).
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Fig. 11: Disconnecting Power Mirror And Power Window Switch

Connectors
3. Remove the four mounting screws, then remove the master switch (A) from the
panel (B).
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Fig. 12: Removing Master Switch From Panel

4. Reinstall the switch in reverse order of removal.

5. Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER
6. Check for DTCs again using the HDS. ).
PASSENGER'S WINDOW SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT
1. Carefully pry off the door switch trim.

2. Disconnect the power window switch connector (A), then remove the three
mounting screws and the power window switch (B) from the switch trim (C).
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Fig. 13: Disconnecting Power Window Switch Connector (Front

Passenger's)
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Fig. 14: Disconnecting Power Window Switch Connector (Rear)

3. Swap the window switch with another known-good switch and test.
If the original window switch is faulty, replace it.

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING
DTC B1125: DRIVER'S POWER WINDOW MOTOR A PULSE ERROR; DTC B1126: DRIVER'S
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POWER WINDOW MOTOR B PULSE ERROR
1. Open and close the driver's power window by using the driver's switch
manually.
2. While the power window moving, select POWER WINDOWS from the HDS
3. Check the EXIST/NONE information of the P/W PLSA (B1125) or P/W PLSB
(B1126) in the DATA LIST.
Do the information indicators display EXIST?
YES - Replace the power window master switch.

NO - Go to step 4.
4. Refer to the power window master switch input test, check for continuity
between the driver's power window motor 6P connector and the power window
master switch 23P connector (see MASTER SWITCH INPUT TEST ).
Are all the wire harnesses OK?

YES - Substitute a known-good power window master switch, and
recheck. If DTC is gone, the original master switch is faulty; replace it. If
the DTC is still indicated, replace the driver's power window motor.
NO - Repair a short or an open in the wire.
DTC B1140: DRIVER'S POWER WINDOW POSITION DETECT CIRCUIT ERROR

2. Cycle the ignition switch to OFF and then back ON (II).
3. Open and close the driver's power window by using the driver's switch
manually.
Is DTC B1125 or B1126 indicated?
YES - Troubleshoot the DTC B1125 or B1126 (see DTC

TROUBLESHOOTING ).
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NO - Go to step 5.
5. Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER
6. Check for DTCs again using the HDS.

YES - Faulty door multiplex control unit; replace the power window
master switch.
NO - The system is recovered at this time.
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2003-07 SUSPENSION Rear Suspension - Accord
2003-07 SUSPENSION
Rear Suspension - Accord
KNUCKLE/HUB BEARING UNIT REPLACEMENT
Fig. 1: Exploded View Of Disc Brake

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Exploded View Of Drum Brake


HUB BEARING UNIT REPLACEMENT-DISC BRAKE
2. Remove the wheel nuts and rear wheel.
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Fig. 3: Removing Wheel Nuts And Rear Wheel

3. Remove the brake hose mounting bracket (A).
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4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper
assembly (C) from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or
brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force.
5. Remove the hubcap (A).
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Fig. 5: Removing Hubcap

6. Raise the stake (B), and remove the spindle nut (C).
7. Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws (A).
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Fig. 6: Removing Brake Disc Retaining Screws

8. Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the disc to push it away from the hub.
Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
9. Remove the brake disc (C).
10. Remove the hub bearing unit (A).
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Fig. 7: Removing Hub Bearing Unit

11. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Use a new spindle nut on reassembly.
Wash the spindle thoroughly in high flash point solvent before

reassembly.
Before installing the brake disc, clean the matching surfaces of the hub
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bearing unit and brake disc.

Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc
ALIGNMENT ).
HUB REPLACEMENT-DRUM BRAKE
2. Remove the wheel nuts and rear wheel.
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Fig. 8: Removing Wheel Nuts And Rear Wheel

3. Remove the hub cap (A).
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Fig. 9: Removing Hub Cap

4. Raise the stake (B), and remove the spindle nut (C).
5. Release the parking brake lever, and remove the brake drum (A). Screw two 8
x 1.25 mm bolts (B) into the drum to push it away from the hub. Turn each bolt
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two turns at a time to prevent cocking the drum excessively.
Fig. 10: Removing Brake Drum

6. Remove the hub bearing unit (A).
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Fig. 11: Removing Hub Bearing Unit

7. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
Wash the spindle thoroughly in high flash point solvent before

reassembly.
Use a new spindle nut during reassembly.
Before installing the brake drum, clean the matching surfaces of the hub
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bearing unit and brake drum.

Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum
ALIGNMENT ).
KNUCKLE REPLACEMENT-DISC BRAKE
1. Remove the hub bearing unit.

2. Remove the splash guard (A).
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Fig. 12: Removing Splash Guard

3. Remove the lock pin (A) from the upper arm ball joint, and loosen the nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new lock pin as shown

below after tightening the nut.
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Fig. 13: Removing Lock Pin From Upper Arm Ball Joint
(C), then disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the stabilizer link bracket (E).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange nut.
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Fig. 14: Removing Flange Nut Holding Joint Pin With Hex Wrench
6. Remove the damper lower mounting bolt (F), and disconnect the damper from
the knuckle.
NOTE: During installation, install the new damper lower

mounting bolt.
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sensor connector.

8. Remove the stabilizer link bracket (B) from the knuckle.

9. Remove the leading arm mounting bolt (A) from the knuckle.
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NOTE: During installation, install the new leading arm

mounting bolt.
Fig. 16: Removing Leading Arm Mounting Bolt From Knuckle

10. Remove the control arm mounting nut (A) and washer (B) from the knuckle.
NOTE: During installation, install the new control arm

mounting nut.
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Fig. 17: Removing Control Arm Mounting Nut And Washer From
Knuckle
11. Remove the trailing arm mounting bolt (A) from the knuckle.
NOTE: During installation, install the new trailing arm

mounting bolt.
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Fig. 18: Removing Trailing Arm Mounting Bolt From Knuckle

12. Remove the lower arm mounting bolt (A), then remove the knuckle (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new lower arm mounting

bolt and nut.
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Fig. 19: Removing Lower Arm Mounting Bolt

13. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
tightening to the specified torque values.
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Install a new lock pin on the castle nut after torquing.
Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface on the brake disc and
ALIGNMENT ).
KNUCKLE REPLACEMENT-DRUM BRAKE
1. Remove the hub bearing unit.

NOTE: During installation, insert the new lock pin as shown

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(C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the stabilizer link bracket (E).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange nut.
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Fig. 21: Removing Flange Nut

5. Remove the damper lower mounting bolt (F), and disconnect the damper from
the knuckle.
NOTE: During installation, install the new damper lower

mounting bolt.
6. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B). Remove the flange
bolts and rear brake assembly (C) from the knuckle.
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Fig. 22: Disconnecting Brake Line From Wheel Cylinder

sensor connector.
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8. Remove the stabilizer link bracket (B) from the knuckle.

9. Remove the leading arm mounting bolt (A) from the knuckle.
NOTE: During installation, install the new leading arm

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mounting nut.
Fig. 24: Removing Leading Arm Mounting Bolt From Knuckle

10. Remove the control arm mounting nut (A) and washer (B) from the knuckle.

mounting nut.
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Fig. 25: Removing Control Arm Mounting Nut And Washer From
Knuckle
11. Remove the trailing arm mounting bolt (A) from the knuckle.
NOTE: During installation, install the new trailing arm

mounting bolt.
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Fig. 26: Removing Trailing Arm Mounting Bolt From Knuckle

12. Remove the lower arm mounting bolt (A), then remove the knuckle (B).

bolt and new nut.
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Fig. 27: Removing Lower Arm Mounting Bolt

13. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
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Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface on the brake drum
Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed
the brake system (see BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING ). Check for a leak
at the brake line to wheel cylinder, and retighten if necessary.
ALIGNMENT ).
UPPER ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

2. Remove the rear wheel.
NOTE: During installation, install the new lock pin as shown

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5. Remove the brake hose mounting bracket (A). Do not disconnect the brake
line.
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6. Remove the wheel sensor harness mounting bracket (B).

7. Remove the flange bolt (A), and remove the upper arm (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt.
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Fig. 30: Removing Flange Bolt And Upper Arm

8. Install the upper arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Before connecting the ball joints to the knuckle, degrease the threaded
section and tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the knuckle connecting
hole, the threaded section, and the mating surface of the castle nut.
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Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surface on the brake disc or
drum and inside of the wheel.
ALIGNMENT ).
LOWER ARM REPLACEMENT
locations (see LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS , SAFETY STANDS ).
3. Remove the lower arm mounting nut (A) and mounting bolt (B) from the
knuckle side.

bolt and nut.
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Fig. 31: Removing Lower Arm Mounting Nut

4. Remove the flange bolt (C), and remove the lower arm (D).
5. Install the lower arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
ALIGNMENT ).
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CONTROL ARM REPLACEMENT
3. Remove the control arm mounting nut (A) and washer (B) from the knuckle
side.

mounting nut.
Fig. 32: Removing Control Arm Mounting Nut And Washer

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4. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (C) and adjusting cam (D), then
remove the self-locking nut (E), and adjusting cam, and adjusting bolt. Discard
the self-locking nut and control arm mounting nut.
NOTE: During installation, install the new self locking nut and
the new adjusting bolt.
5. Remove the control arm (F).

6. Install the control arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and adjusting cam with the
marked positions when tightening.
Use a new self-locking nut and control arm mounting nut on reassembly.
ALIGNMENT ).
TRAILING ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
3. Remove the parking brake cable bracket (A) from the trailing arm (B).
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Fig. 33: Removing Parking Brake Cable Bracket From Trailing Arm
4. Remove the mounting bolts (C), and remove the trailing arm.
NOTE: During installation, install the new mounting bolts.
5. Install the trailing arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
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ALIGNMENT ).
LEADING ARM REPLACEMENT
3. Remove the mounting bolts, and remove the leading arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new mounting bolts.
Fig. 34: Removing Leading Arm

4. Install the leading arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
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ALIGNMENT ).
STABILIZER LINK REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
locations (see LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS ). Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) while holding the
respective joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), and remove the stabilizer link
(E).
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 35: Removing Self-Locking Nut And Flange Nut

4. Install the stabilizer link (A) on the stabilizer bar (B) and stabilizer link bracket
(C) with the joint pins set at the center of their range of the movement.
NOTE: The left stabilizer link has a white paint mark (D), while
the right stabilizer link has a yellow paint mark.
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Fig. 36: Installing Stabilizer Link On Stabilizer Bar

5. Install the new self-locking nut and flange nut, and lightly tighten them.
6. Place the floor jack under the knuckle, and raise the suspension to load it with
the vehicle's weight.
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7. Tighten the self-locking nut (A) and flange nut (B) to the specified torque
values while holding the respective joint pins (C) with a hex wrench (D).
Fig. 37: Tightening Self-Locking Nut And Flange Nut

8. Reinstall all removed parts, and test-drive the vehicle.
9. After 5 minutes of driving, tighten the self-locking nut again to the specified
torque value.
STABILIZER BAR REPLACEMENT
locations (see LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS ). Remove the rear wheels.
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3. Disconnect the stabilizer links from the stabilizer bar (A) on the right and left
(see STABILIZER LINK REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
Fig. 38: Disconnecting Stabilizer Links From Stabilizer Bar

4. Remove the flange bolts and bushing holders (B), then remove the bushing (C)
and the stabilizer bar.
5. Install the stabilizer bar in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Note the right and left direction of the stabilizer bar.
Align the ends of the paint marks (A) on the stabilizer bar with the
bushing (B).
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Refer to STABILIZER LINK REMOVAL/INSTALLATION to

connect the stabilizer to the links .
Fig. 39: Aligning Ends Of Paint Marks On Stabilizer Bar

Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces on the brake disc or
drum and inside of wheel.
ALIGNMENT ).
KNUCKLE BUSHING REPLACEMENT
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Bushing driver 30-40 07NAD-SS00100 or 07NAD-SS00101

1. Position the knuckle (A) on the press with the machined surface (B) facing
down.
Fig. 40: Positioning Knuckle On Press With Machined Surface Facing

Down
2. Adjust the bushing driver so it matches the inner diameter of the bushing hole,
then tighten the socket bolts (C) securely.
3. Position the bushing driver on the bushing (D).
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4. Remove the bushing by pressing on the special tool with a press as shown in
Fig. 40.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the inside of the bushing hole

while pressing on the bushing.
5. Position the knuckle (A) on the press with the machined surface (B) facing up.
Fig. 41: Positioning Knuckle On Press With Machined Surface Facing Up

6. Adjust the special tool so it matches with the outer diameter of the bushing (C).
7. Position the special tool on the outer sleeve (D) of the bushing.
8. Press the bushing into the knuckle using the bushing driver as shown in Fig.
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41.
DAMPER/SPRING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
3. Remove the rear bulkhead cover (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION -
REAR SHELF AREA ).
4. Remove the seat side bolster (see 4-DOOR ).
5. Remove the two flange nuts (A).
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Fig. 42: Removing Flange Nuts

(C), and disconnect the stabilizer link (D) from the stabilizer link bracket (E).
Fig. 43: Removing Flange Nut Holding Joint Pin With Hex Wrench
7. Remove the flange bolt (F) from the knuckle.

8. Lower the rear suspension, and remove the damper (G) from the vehicle.
Damper springs are different, left and right. Mark the springs L and R before
you continue.
INSTALLATION
1. Lower the rear suspension, and position the damper (A), in the body.
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Fig. 44: Positioning Damper In Body

2. Loosely install the flange nuts (B) onto the top of the damper.
3. Loosely install the flange bolt (A) on the bottom of the damper. Connect the
stabilizer link (B) on the bracket (C), and loosely install the flange nut (D).
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Fig. 45: Installing Flange Bolt On Bottom Of Damper

4. Raise the rear suspension with a floor jack load the vehicle weight, and tighten
the flange bolt to the specified torque value.
5. Tighten the flange nut while holding the joint pin (E) with a hex wrench (F).
6. Tighten the two flange nuts on top of the damper to the specified torque value.
7. Install the seat side bolster (see 4-DOOR ).
8. Install the rear bulkhead cover (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION -
REAR SHELF AREA ).
9. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc or drum and the inside of the wheel,
then install the rear wheel.
10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary (see WHEEL
ALIGNMENT ).
EXPLODED VIEW
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Fig. 46: Exploded View Of Damper/Spring


available strut spring compressor (Branick MST-580A or
Model 7200, or equivalent). According to the manufacturer's
instructions.
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DISASSEMBLY
1. Compress the damper spring, then remove the self-locking nut (A) while
holding the damper shaft with a hex wrench (B). Do not compress the spring
more than necessary to remove the self-locking nut.
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Fig. 47: Removing Self-Locking Nut Holding Damper Shaft With Hex
Wrench
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2. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the
damper as shown in Fig. 46 .
INSPECTION
1. Reassemble all parts, except the spring.

2. Compress the damper assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation
through a full stroke, both compression and extension. The damper should
extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not,
the gas is leaking and the damper should be replaced.
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Fig. 48: Compressing Damper Assembly

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3. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, and binding during these tests.
REASSEMBLY
1. Install all parts except the self-locking nut and washer onto the damper unit by
referring to the Exploded View. Align the bottom of the spring (A) and the
stepped part of the lower spring seat (B), and align the damper mounting base
(C) as shown below.
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Fig. 49: Aligning Damper Mounting Base

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2. Install the damper assembly on commercially available strut spring compressor

(D).
3. Compress the damper spring with the spring compressor.
4. Install the washer (A), and loosely install a new self-locking nut (B).
Fig. 50: Installing New Self-Locking Nut

5. Hold the damper shaft with a hex wrench (C), and tighten the self-locking nut
to the specified torque value.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Seat Heaters - Accord
Seat Heaters - Accord
Fig. 1: Identifying Seat Heaters Components Location

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2007 Honda Accord
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Fig. 2: Seat Heaters Circuit Diagram

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SEAT HEATER TEST

DRIVER'S SEAT

2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) and 2P connector (B) from the seat heater.
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Fig. 3: Disconnecting 4P Connector & 2P Connector From Seat Heater

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3. Check for continuity between the B1 and B2 terminals of the seat-back heater
2P connector. There should be continuity.
4. Check for continuity between the A1 and A2 terminals, and the A1 and B2
terminals. There should be continuity.
5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the seat heater.
FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT
1. Remove the passenger's seat (see FRONT SEAT

2. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) from the seat heater.
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Fig. 4: Disconnecting 4P Connector From Seat Heater

3. Check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals, and No. 3 and No.
4 terminals of the 4P connector. There should be continuity.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the seat heater.
SWITCH TEST
1. Remove the center console front panel (see CENTER CONSOLE

2. Disconnect the 6P connector from the seat heater switch (A), then remove the
switch.
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Fig. 5: Disconnecting 6P Connector From Seat Heater Switch


4. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the illumination bulbs (B) or
the switch.
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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Seats - Accord (V6)
Seats - Accord (V6)
FRONT SEAT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
refer to PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES before performing repairs or
service.
PASSENGER'S 4-WAY POWER SEAT
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC tool set to avoid
Take care not to scratch the body or tear the seat
covers.
2. '04-07 models passenger's seat: Carefully insert the tip of a small screwdriver
(A) through the hole in the back of the front seat belt lower anchor cover (B)
and into the hole in the front seat belt lower anchor (C).
Unlock the lower anchor by pushing in on the screwdriver. Remove the

screwdriver, and then detach the front seat belt anchor plate (D) and anchor
cover from the lower anchor.
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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 1: Inserting Small Screwdriver Through Hole in Back Of Front Seat

Belt Lower Anchor Cover
3. Slide the seat all the way forward, then remove the seat track end covers (A)
from the back of both seat tracks.
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Fig. 2: Removing Seat Track End Covers From Back Of Both Seat Tracks
('03 Model)
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Fig. 3: Removing Seat Track End Covers From Back Of Both Seat Tracks
('04-07 Model)
4. Slide the seat about halfway to the rear so you can access the mounting bolts.
5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and wait at least 3 minutes
before removing the seat.
6. Remove the bolts securing the front seat.
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Fig. 4: Identifying Front Seat Bolts

7. Lift up the front seat, then detach the harness clip (A), and disconnect the
power seat connector (B), the side airbag connector (C), and the OPDS/ODS
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unit connector (D). On '04-05 models, disconnect the weight sensor unit
connector (E) or '06-07 model, disconnect the weight sensor connector (F).
Fig. 5: Detaching Harness Clip And Disconnecting Power Seat Connector

('03 Model)
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('04-05 Models)
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('06-07 Model)
8. With the help of an assistant, carefully remove the front seat through the front
door opening.
9. Install the seat in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the front seat mounting
bolts before reinstallation.
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Make sure each connector is plugged in properly.

Tighten the seat mounting bolts to the specified torque in the sequence
shown in . Slide the seat all the way back and tighten 1 and 2, then slide it
forward and tighten 3 and 4.
Before attaching the lower anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or
kinks in the seat belts.
'04-07 models passenger's seat: The triangle marks (A) on the anchor plate
(B) and the lower anchor (C) must face the same side. Insert the anchor
plate into the lower anchor, and make sure that it is locked securely.
Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio and the navigation system, then
enter the customer's audio station and XM radio channel presets.
Reset the clock.
Perform the power window control unit reset procedure, refer to
RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT .
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Fig. 8: Identifying Seat Mounting Bolts Tightening Sequence

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Fig. 9: Identifying Front Seat Belt Lower Anchor ('04-07 Models

Passenger's)
FRONT SEAT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY - 4-WAY POWER

'03 MODEL 4-DOOR
refer to PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES before performing repairs or
service.
NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat
covers.
Apply multipurpose grease to the moving parts of the
seat track.
To prevent wrinkles in the seat cushion cover, stretch
the material evenly over the pad.
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Fig. 10: Exploded View Of Front Seat - 4-Way Power ('03 Model 4-Door)

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component
locations, refer to COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX and the precautions
and procedures, refer to PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES before
performing repairs or service.
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'04-05 models: The front passenger's weight sensor (SWS) unit must be
calibrated after any of these actions, refer to CALIBRATING THE FRONT
PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR UNIT ('04-05 MODELS) OR
CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL) :
- Front passenger's seat replacement (including any seat components)
- Replacement of the seat weight sensors
- Replacement of the seat weight sensor unit
'06-07 model: The ODS unit must be calibrated after any for this actions, refer
to CALIBRATING THE FRONT PASSENGER'S WEIGHT SENSOR
MODEL) :
covers.
seat track.
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Fig. 11: Exploded View Of Front Seat - 4-Way Power ('04-07 Models 4-Door)
FRONT SEAT LINKAGE DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY - 4-WAY POWER
'03 MODEL

Apply multipurpose grease to the sliding and pivot
portions of the linkage.
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Fig. 12: Exploded View Of Front Seat Linkage - 4-Way Power ('03 Models)
'04-07 MODELS
calibrated after any of these actions, refer to CALIBRATING THE FRONT
CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL) :
MODEL) :
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Apply multipurpose grease to the sliding and pivot
portions of the linkage.
When tightening the weight sensor mounting nuts,
tighten the nuts in the sequence shown in . Improper
tightening could cause the passenger's airbag system
to malfunction.
Make sure the weight sensor unit ('04-05 models)
connectors are plugged in properly.
Make sure the weight sensor wires are routed properly
so they are not pinched and do not interfere with other
parts.
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Fig. 13: Exploded View Of Front Seat Linkage - 4-Way Power ('04-07 Models)
FRONT SEAT COVER REPLACEMENT
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component
locations, refer to COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX and the precautions
and procedures, refer to PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES before
performing repairs or service.
calibrated after any of the these actions, refer to CALIBRATING THE
OR CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL) :
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- Seat weight sensor replacement
- Seat weight sensor unit replacement
MODEL) :
NOTE: Seats with a side airbag have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on

the seat-back. Because the component parts (seat-back
cover, cushion, etc.) of seats with and without airbags
are different, make sure you install only the correct
replacement parts.
Do not repair any tears or frayed spots in the seat-back
cover. If necessary, replace the seat-back cover.
Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat
covers.
Do not touch the OPDS sensor in the seat-back pad,
and keep it away from oil. Oil can corrode the sensor
causing it to fail.
SEAT-BACK COVER - 4-WAY POWER SEAT
1. Remove the front seat (see FRONT SEAT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION).

2. Remove the headrest.
3. From under the seat cushion, disconnect the recline motor connector (A),
detach the side airbag connector clip (B), the OPDS/ODS unit connector clip
(C), and harness clip (D). Release the seat cushion cover (E) from the seat
cushion frame spring (F), then pull the cover back and remove the wire ties
(G).
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Fig. 14: Identifying Recline Motor Connector

4. Remove these items from the front seat, then remove the seat-back, '03 model
(see '03 MODEL 4-DOOR), '04-07 models (see '04-07 MODELS 4-DOOR):
Recline cover
Center cover
5. Detach the clips and hooks (A) by carefully pulling the bottom of the back
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panel (B) back, pull the panel downward to release the hooks (C) from the seat-
back frame, then remove the panel.
Fig. 15: Detaching Clips And Hooks Pulling Bottom Of Back Panel Back
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6. Release the hook strips (A), then loosen the seat-back cover (B).
Fig. 16: Releasing Hook Strips And Loosening Seat-Back Cover

7. Pull the recline motor harness (A), side airbag harness (B) and the OPDS/ODS
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harness (C) out through the holes (D) in the seat-back cover.
Fig. 17: Pulling Recline Motor Harness, Side Airbag Harness And
OPDS/ODS Harness
8. Release the front hook (A) and rear hook (B) of the reinforcing cloth (C) from
seat-back frame (D).
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Fig. 18: Releasing Front And Rear Hook Of Reinforcing Cloth From Seat-
Back Frame
9. Pull out the headrest guides (A) by pinching the tabs on the ends of the guides,
and remove them.
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Fig. 19: Pulling Out Headrest Guides Pinching Tabs On Ends Of Guides
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10. From the back of the seat-back, pass both lower retainers (A) through the slots
in the seat-back pad, and release all of the clips (B).
Fig. 20: Passing Both Lower Retainers Through Slots In Seat-Back Pad
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11. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the
clips (A), then remove the seat-back cover.
Fig. 21: Releasing Clips And Seat-Back Cover

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12. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Reinitialize the OPDS/ODS control unit, refer to INITIALIZING THE
OPDS/ODS UNIT .
To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the
material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the clips, hooks,
and hook strips.
Replace any clips you removed with new ones (A). Install them with
commercially available upholstery ring pliers (6).
Reinstall the front hook (C) and rear hook (D) of the reinforcing cloth (E)
securely.
Use only original Honda replacement seat-back covers.
Make sure the Recline motor harness, side airbag harness, and OPDS/ODS
harness are routed properly.
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Fig. 22: Identifying Seat-Back Cover

SEAT CUSHION COVER
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1. Remove the front seat (see FRONT SEAT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION).

2. With recline motor and/or side airbag: From under the seat cushion, detach the
recline motor connector clip, the side airbag connector clip, and on the
passenger's seat, the OPDS/ODS unit connector clip. Release the hook springs
(on some driver's seats) and the seat cushion cover from the seat cushion frame
spring, then pull the cover back, and remove the wire ties.
3. Remove these items from the front seat, then remove the seat-back, '03 model
(see '03 MODEL 4-DOOR), '04-07 models (see '04-07 MODELS 4-DOOR):
Recline cover
Center cover
4. Release the hook strips (A) and retainers (B) (manual height adjustable seat)
from both sides the seat cushion.
NOTE: Manual height adjustable seat is shown in ; other seats

are similar, except for the height ratchet unit portion.
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Fig. 23: Releasing Hook Strips And Retainers From Both Sides Seat
Cushion
5. Pull back the seat cushion cover (A), and release the hooks (B) from under the
seat cushion. On manual height adjustable/2-way power seat, detach the clips
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from the seat cushion frame (C).
Fig. 24: Pulling Back Seat Cushion Cover And Releasing Hooks
6. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the seat cushion frame.
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7. Release the clips (A) from under the seat cushion (B).
Fig. 25: Releasing Clips From Under Seat Cushion

8. Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the
clips (A), then remove the seat cushion cover.
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Fig. 26: Releasing Clips And Removing Seat Cushion Cover

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9. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the
material is stretched evenly over the pad before securing the clips and
hook strips.
Replace any clips you removed with new ones (A). Install them with
commercially available upholstery ring pliers (B).
Fig. 27: Identifying Seat Cushion Cover

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2003-07 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Seats - Accord
Seats - Accord
Fig. 1: Locating Seats Components (2-Door)

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2007 Honda Accord
Fig. 2: Locating Seats Components (4-Door)

FRONT SEAT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION


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Take care not to scratch the body or tear the seat
covers.
2. Tilt the steering wheel all the way up and telescope it all the way in.
3. '04-07 models passenger's seat: Carefully insert the tip of a small screwdriver
(A) through the hole in the back of the front seat belt lower anchor cover (B)
and into the hole in the front seat belt lower anchor (C). Unlock the lower
anchor by pushing in on the screwdriver. Remove the screwdriver, and then
detach the front seat belt anchor plate (D) and anchor cover from the lower
anchor.
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Fig. 3: Detaching Front Seat Belt Anchor Plate

4. Slide the seat all the way forward, then remove the seat track end covers (A)
from the back of both seat tracks.
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Fig. 4: Removing Seat Track End Covers (Manual/Manual Height

Adjustable/2-Way Power ('03 model))
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Fig. 5: Removing Seat Track End Covers (Manual ('04-06 Models 2-

Door))
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Fig. 6: Removing Seat Track End Covers (Manual ('04-06 Models 4-

Door))
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Fig. 7: Removing Seat Track End Covers (8-Way Power)

5. Slide the seat about half way to the rear so you can access the seat mounting
bolts. If equipped with the 8-way power seat, fully raise the seat.
6. If equipped with a side airbag, disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
and wait at least 3 minutes before removing the seat.
7. Remove the bolts securing the front seat (A).
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Fig. 8: Removing Front Seat Bolts

8. Lift up the front seat, then detach the harness clip (A), and disconnect the
connector.
Seat belt switch connector (B) except on the 8-way power seat.
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Power seat harness connector (C) on the driver's and passenger's power
seats.
If equipped, the seat heater connector (D) on the 2-way power seat and
passenger's manual seat.
Side airbag connector (E) on the driver's and passenger's seat.
OPDS/ODS unit connector (F) on the passenger's seat.
'04-07 models, disconnect the seat position sensor subharness connector
(G) on the driver's manual height adjustable seat and the 8-way power
seat.
Weight sensor unit connector (H) ('04-05 models), weight sensor
connector (I) ('06-07 models) on the passenger's seat.
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Fig. 9: Detaching Harness Clip (Manual Seat ('03 Model Passenger's))

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Fig. 10: Detaching Harness Clip (Manual Seat ('04-05 Models

Passenger's))
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Fig. 11: Detaching Harness Clip (Manual Seat ('06-07 Models

Passenger's))
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Fig. 12: Detaching Harness Clip (Manual Seat ('03 Model Driver's/Manual
Height Adjustable Seat ('03 Model))
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Fig. 13: Detaching Harness Clip (Manual Height Adjustable Seat ('04-07
Models))
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Fig. 14: Detaching Harness Clip (2-Way Power Seat ('03 Model))
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Fig. 15: Detaching Harness Clip (2-Way Power Seat ('04-06 Models))
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Fig. 16: Detaching Harness Clip (8-Way Power Seat ('03 Model))
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Fig. 17: Detaching Harness Clip (8-Way Power Seat ('04-06 Models))
9. With the help of an assistant, carefully remove the front seat through the front
door opening.
10. Install the seat in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Apply medium strength liquid thread lock to the front seat mounting bolts
Make sure each connector is plugged in properly.
Tighten the seat mounting bolts to the specified torque in the sequence
shown in Fig. 18. Slide the seat all the way back and tighten (1) and (2)
then slide it forward and tighten (3) and (4).
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Before attaching the lower anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or
kinks in the seat belts.
'04-07 models passenger's seat: The triangle marks (A) on the anchor plate
(B) and the lower anchor (C) must face the same side. Insert the anchor
plate into the lower anchor, and make sure that it is locked securely.
If equipped with a side airbag, reconnect the negative cable to the battery.
Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio and navigation system, then enter
the customer's radio station presets.
Reset the clock.
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Fig. 18: Tightening Seat Mounting Bolts In Sequence

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Fig. 19: Front Seat Belt Lower Anchor Installation ('04-06 Models
Passenger's)
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FRONT SEAT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY - MANUAL

'03 MODEL 2-DOOR
covers.
seat track.
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Fig. 20: Exploded View Of Front Seat ('03 Model 2-Door -

Manual)

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations
(see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ) and the precautions and
procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing
repairs or service.
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calibrated after any of these actions (see CALIBRATING THE FRONT
CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06 MODEL) ):
'06-07 models: The front passenger's weight sensor (ODS) must be calibrated
after any of these actions (see CALIBRATING THE FRONT
covers.
seat track.
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Fig. 21: Exploded View Of Front Seat ('04-07 Models 2-

Door - Manual)

'03 MODEL 4-DOOR
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covers.
seat track.
The passenger's seat is shown below; driver's seat is
similar except it has no OPDS unit.
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Fig. 22: Exploded View Of Front Seat ('03 Model 4-Door -

Manual)

'04-07 MODELS 4-DOOR PASSENGER'S
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repairs or service.
CALIBRATE THE ODS UNIT ('06-07 MODEL) ):
'06-07 model: The front passenger's seat weight sensor (ODS) must be
covers.
seat track.
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Fig. 23: Exploded View Of Front Seat ('04-07 Models 4-

Door Passenger's - Manual)
FRONT SEAT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY - MANUAL HEIGHT

ADJUSTABLE

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repairs or service.
'04-06 models: The operation of the driver's seat position sensor must be
checked after any of these actions (see OPERATION CHECK OF THE
DRIVER'S SEAT POSITION SENSOR ):
- Driver's seat position sensor replacement
- Cover plate (front side of driver's seat slide rail) replacement
covers.
Ap

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2007 Honda Accord

2003-07 RESTRAINTS SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) - Accord

SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) - Accord

COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX

Fig. 1: Locating SRS Components

Fig. 2: Locating SRS Components (4-Door Shown; 2-Door Similar)

NOTE: The SRS memory is not erased even if the ignition

switch is turned OFF or the battery cables are

Fig. 3: Inspecting SRS Parts

Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda

Cable Reel Alignment

For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following

Fig. 4: Storing Removed Airbag With Pad Surface Up

Fig. 5: Keeping Airbag Away From Oil, Grease, Detergent Or Water

Never perform electrical inspections to the airbags, such as measuring

Fig. 7: Precaution For Airbag Removal, Inspection, Or Replacement

Fig. 8: Identifying Side Curtain Airbag Inflator Assembly Components

Fig. 10: Precaution For Deformation On SRS Unit

or disconnecting the connectors from the SRS unit.

Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or

Fig. 11: Never Attempt To Modify, Splice Or Repair SRS Wiring

PRECAUTIONS FOR ELECTRICAL INSPECTIONS

Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

Fig. 14: Using U-Shaped Probe

Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools

Some SRS system connectors have a spring-loaded lock.

Fig. 15: Disconnecting Front Airbag Connectors

Fig. 16: Holding Pawl-Side Connector And Pressing On Back Of Sleeve-

Fig. 17: When Connector Is Connected Pawl Is Released And Spring-

Fig. 18: Disconnecting Side Airbag Connector

Fig. 19: Connecting Side Airbag Connector

NOTE: To prevent damage of the connector cavity, insert the

When SRS unit connectors A, B, or C are disconnected, a short circuit is created in

Fig. 20: Inserting SRS Short Canceller In Specified Cavities

Fig. 21: Identifying SRS Unit Connector A 28P

Fig. 22: Identifying SRS Unit Connector B 28P

Fig. 23: Identifying SRS Unit Connector C 16P

NOTE: It is not necessary to reinstall the removed retainer; the

Fig. 24: Removing Retainer Inserting Screwdriver Between Connector Body

SEATS WITH SIDE AIRBAGS

Fig. 25: Identifying Side Airbag Label

Fig. 26: Disconnecting Negative Cable From Battery

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes.

Front Passenger's Airbag

Fig. 28: Disconnecting Front Passenger's Airbag 4P Connector From

Fig. 29: Disconnecting Side Airbag 2P Connectors From Floor Wire

5. Remove the headliner (see HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).

Fig. 30: Disconnecting Side Curtain Airbag Subharness 2P Connectors

Seat Belt Tensioner

8. Remove the side trim panel.

1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.

Fig. 33: Connecting HDS To DLC

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.

Fig. 34: Connecting HDS To DLC

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

Special Tools Required

SCS Service Connector 07PAZ-0010100

1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.

Fig. 35: Connecting SCS Service Connector To Yellow MES 2P Connector

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

When a seat-back cover, seat-back cushion, and/or OPDS/ODS unit is replaced,

NOTE: A new (uninitialized) OPDS/ODS unit installed with a faulty

Fig. 36: Connecting HDS To DLC