2017 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

californiatravelguide.travel

18 COMPELLING
STARTING POINTS
14
To Make the Most of Your Trip

To Discover and Explore

DRAMATIC LANDSCAPES
CULTURAL CAPITALS
+
ICONIC PARKS
GRAND RAIL JOURNEYS
TOP GOLF COURSES
LEGENDARY THEME PARKS
HIKE BIKE SKI SURF!
$6.95 DISPLAY UNTIL JUNE 15, 2017
EXQUISITE AND MUCH MORE

CUISINE
Farm to Fork, Vineyard to Wine Glass
 CONTENTS

GET YOUR BEARINGS

8 CALIFORNIA MAP

10 EDITORS NOTE

16 DISCOVER
California Dreaming

18 HISTORY
A Home for Immigrants and Entrepreneurs

DISCOVER THE GOLDEN STATE

22 CITIES 50 CUISINE
Surprising Cities Dining Out

26 SUMMER SPORTS 52 WINE COUNTRY

Adrenaline Rush In Praise of the Grape

30 WINTER SPORTS
No Time to Hibernate
58 CASINOS
Deal Me In
ON THE COVER
Big Sur coastline and
the Bixby Creek Bridge
32 THEME PARKS 62 MUSEUMS & ART Photo: Kris Wiktor/Shutterstock
Not Just for Kids Celebrating the Human Spirit

36 SHOPPING 64 PERFORMING ARTS

A Shoppers Paradise On with the Show

40 ROAD TRIPS 66 ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS

Youre in the Drivers Seat Harmonious by Design

44 RAILWAY JOURNEYS 68 STATE & NATIONAL PARKS

All Aboard! Expect the Unexpected

47 SPAS & WELLNESS 72 GOLF

Pamper Your Body, Center Your Soul Swing Away Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe, top

6 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 68

EXPLORE CALIFORNIAS TOURISM REGIONS

74 SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA
78 Berkeley
80 San Francisco
82 Healdsburg

84 SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY

88 Santa Clara

92 MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR

97 Gilroy

98 CENTRAL COAST
102 Ventura
104 Pismo Beach
FIND USEFUL INFORMATION
106 Paso Robles 172 RESOURCES
108 Santa Maria Valley
110 Ventura County Coast GENERAL INFORMATION
CALIFORNIA WELCOME CENTERS
112 DESERTS QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE TO TRAVEL
116 Palm Springs
CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAUS
118 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MEDICAL CARE & TRAVEL INSURANCE
124 Redondo Beach DRIVING REGULATIONS
RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED
126 ORANGE COUNTY AIR DISTANCES BETWEEN SELECTED CITIES
DRIVING DISTANCES
130 SAN DIEGO COUNTY
134 San Diego Zoo & Safari Park
RACHID DAHNOUN; UCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK; SANTA BARBARA CVB

137 SHASTA CASCADE

140 Redding

142 NORTH COAST

146 Del Norte County
148 Humboldt County

150 HIGH SIERRA

154 Mammoth Lakes
156 Lake Tahoe South Shore

160 GOLD COUNTRY

164 CENTRAL VALLEY

168 Kern County

169 INLAND EMPIRE

52
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 7
 199 Tulelake
Dorris
Willow Ranch
Fort Dick
96

Klamath R.
139
Yreka Montague
Clear Creek
Crescent City Del Norte
Bray Modoc Lake City
Siskiyou
Hackamore
Klamath 299

299
Alturas
Etna
Weed

Orleans Mount Shasta

Callahan
Orick 3
89 Likely
96 Dunsmuir

Cecilville

Trinidad Sacramento R.
299
Nubieber

SHASTA
CASCADE
Lamoine
139
Termo
Eureka Arcata
Blue Lake
299
Trinity 299
89
Hat Creek
Humboldt
Lassen
Big Bar Weaverville
Shasta Lake
395
Shasta
Fortuna 44

Ferndale Redding 44

3 44
273
Rio Dell 89
36
Anderson Susanville
Platina Mineral
36

36
Blocksburg 36 Westwood
Honeydew
Eel R.

89 Milford
Red Bluff
Taylorsville
Te h a m a
Whitethorn 5
32

Corning Quincy
Plumas
THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA
NORTH
208
Leggett

101
Paskenta
99
70
70

Portola GOLD
has 58 counties, whose
Orland Paradise 49

COUNTRY
Dos Rios 32
89
Chico

COAST 1
Glenn Willows Butte
Downieville
Sierra
Loyalton

Fort Bragg

20
Willits Biggs 70
Oroville
49

Nevada
89

boundaries are shown on

Gridley Truckee
Mendocino 80

this map. The states

Live Oak Yu b a
Colusa 45
20 Colusa Nevada City
Lake Grass Valley
Ukiah Williams Sutter
Elk Lake
Yuba City Marysville Tahoe
128 Placer
253

tourism regions sometimes

Sacram

Wheatland Colfax
Lakeport
ento

49
R.

70
Clearlake 113

Point Arena
128
29
16
Lincoln Auburn
South Lake
Tahoe
spill over several counties
El Dorado
1
Cloverdale Yo l o Rocklin 50
Roseville 49

Sonoma Placerville
Folsom Markleeville

Sacramento
89

Windsor
Calistoga
Napa
Woodland

Davis 80
88
Coleville HIGH SIERRA and in some places jump
Santa Rosa Saint Helena
Dixon
16 Amador
Alpine

Sacramento Sutter Creek 4

Sebastopol Rohnert Park Vacaville Ione 182

borders to include portions

108
Jackson 395
Napa 5 88
Calaveras
1 Galt

SAN FRANCISCO
160
Bridgeport
Petaluma Fairfield San Andreas
12 49 Tuolumne
Solano
Novato 37

of counties. The colored sec-

Lodi
Marin Vallejo Rio Vista
Angels City

BAY AREA
167

San Rafael Martinez San Joaquin Sonora Tuolumne City

Concord Lee Vining
Berkeley Stockton 120

tions on the map show

120
Contra
Costa Lathrop
Oakland
San Francisco Manteca
99 Ripon
120
Yosemite Village Mono
San Francisco Oakdale
Alameda
Riverbank
Daly City
Livermore Modesto
where these regions are.
Waterford 49 140

92
Hayward 132
Mammoth Lakes
Mariposa

San Mateo Alameda

Stanislaus 6

Redwood City Fremont Turlock Mariposa Madera

Milpitas Patterson

Sunnyvale Livingston 99 Atwater

140

Santa Clara San Jose Newman

Merced
Coarsegold
Bishop
168
Lakeshore
San Mateo
1

SAN JOSE Santa Cruz

Los Gatos
Morgan Hill

Santa Clara Los Banos

Merced
Chowchilla 41
168

Fresno

& SILICON VALLEY

152 395

Capitola Gilroy Dos Palos

Madera
Santa Cruz Trimmer
33
Watsonville Hollister

DESERTS
99
Firebaugh 41
Independence
Fresno Clovis
Kings
Mendota 180
R.
Marina Salinas Sanger Owenyo Inyo

Monterey Seaside
25
San Benito
San Joaquin
Parlier Reedley
245
33
Selma 136
Gonzales Dinuba
Kingsburg 198

MONTEREY BAY Soledad

Greenfield
145

Hanford Visalia
Woodlake

Cartago
190
190
Death Valley
190

& BIG SUR

Lemoore 198
Big Sur 43 Exeter
Tulare
King City Huron Tulare Lindsay
1 127
Coalinga Haiwee
41
198 33 Corcoran
Porterville 178

Monterey
Avenal Johnsondale
101 Shoshone
99

Kings Tecopa

Delano Searles Valley 127

5
1
McFarland 178
San Simeon 46
65
El Paso de Robles Wasco Mountain Mesa
41 Ridgecrest
33

CENTRAL Morro Bay

41
Atascadero

San Luis Obispo 58

Buttonwillow
Shafter
43
99

Bakersfield
Kern R.
178

Saltdale C a l i f o r n i a
15

VALLEY San Luis Obispo

227
119

99
58

Arvin
Kern

14 California City
Cima

Arroyo Grande Tehachapi

Taft
Grover Beach
Maricopa
Afton
1 58

Santa Maria 166

Boron
33 58
Guadalupe Barstow San Bernardino

Santa Barbara Frazier Park Needles

101 14
138
Helendale Essex
Lancaster Ludlow
40

CENTRAL Lompoc

Buellton
Solvang
33 Ve n t u r a
Lake Hughes

Adelanto
15

Apple Valley
247

Bagdad

COAST 1

Santa Barbara
Fillmore
Palmdale

Santa Clarita
Los Angeles 138
Victorville 18

Chubbuck
Lake
Havasu

Santa Paula Hesperia 247

118 Simi Valley

Big Bear Lake

o R.
San Buenaventura Oxnard La Canada Flintridge

orad
Col
Glendale Pasadena San Bernardino
Yucca
Thousand Oaks Agoura Hills Fontana
30 Valley 62
Twentynine Palms Rice
1
Los Angeles 62

Riverside 62
Desert Hot Springs
177

Moreno Valley
Torrance Anaheim Corona Palm Springs Riverside

LOS ANGELES
Palos Verdes Estates
Santa Ana Hemet Cathedral City
Indio Desert Center
Long Beach Irvine Palm Desert
Lake Elsinore

COUNTY
Orange 10
Blythe
Huntington Beach Costa Mesa 74

Laguna Niguel
371
1

Oasis

5 79 78
Avalon 111

ORANGE Oceanside Vista

San Diego
Borrego Springs

86
Salton
Sea
Imperial

COUNTY Carlsbad

Encinitas
78
San Marcos

15
Escondido
Westmorland
Calipatria

Poway Brawley Imperial

79 78
Reservoir

Santee Imperial
Holtville
El Cajon El Centro
San Diego Lemon Grove 8 Calexico
98
Coronado Chula Vista

SAN DIEGO Imperial Beach

COUNTY INLAND
EMPIRE

BEST ROADSIDE DINING Innumerable ne watering holes dot

MTKILIMONJARO.BLOGSPOT.CA

Californias famous coastal Highway 1, and one of the best is the

Buckeye Roadhouse just north of the Golden Gate Bridge in Mill
INSIDERS Valley. Established in 1937 and refurbished in the 1990s, the

TIP Buckeye now serves everything from crab and oysters to pork
chops and steaks. You can also get local brews and signature
cocktails, all in an alpine-style chalet with vaulted ceilings and tall windows. Take a seat and relax.

8 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 EDITORS NOTE 2017 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

CALIFORNIA
PRESIDENT & GROUP Joseph P. Turkel
PUBLISHER

EDITOR Larry Habegger

Surprises EXECUTIVE EDITOR Judi Scharf

ART DIRECTOR Mark Tzerelshtein

Along the Way WRITERS David Armstrong

Christopher P. Baker
Susan Brady (Resources)
On the blus in San Francisco overlooking the Golden Gate and the Laura Del Rosso
Christine Delsol
Marin Headlands, theres a place that comes upon most visitors as a surprise. Bill Fink
The popular walking path here on Lands End winds around the citys north- John Flinn
Don George
west corner high above the sea, narrow and wooded in places, open and at Marcy Gordon
Je Greenwald
in others, with expansive views over the water. But sitting atop a at outcrop Lenore Greiner
Robert Kaufman
far below is a scatter of brown stones that takes on a pattern when you look Maribeth Mellin
closely, and you wonder if youre seeing things. Laura Ness
Jill K. Robinson
A side path will get you down there and when you come around the last Michael Shapiro
Bonnie Smetts
bend you see that youre right, the stones have been placed to form a labyrinth Lavinia Spalding
Matt Villano
similar to those of famous European cathedrals. Step inside and take a slow,
Peter Watts
meandering walk to the center, where you can take deep breaths of the clean Laurie Weed
Jacqueline Yau
Pacic air and contemplate your good fortune to be standing at this magical
CIRCULATION Julia Wall
place on the edge of a continent. MANAGER
There are many surprises like this on the pathways and roads of California.
DIRECTOR OF FINANCE Gloria Mungo
Take a turn in wine country and you might discover a boutique winery you
DIRECTOR OF Craig Sweetman
hadnt heard about. Climb over a mountain pass and have your breath stolen RETAIL MARKETING
by the beauty of the landscape before you. Drive through the forest in the
northern reaches and encounter trees seemingly older and larger than time ACCOUNT MANAGERS Collier C. Granberry
Dexter Taylor
itself. Drop into a roadside caf and learn that its as good as anything starred Joe Turkel

by Michelin. CALIFORNIA OFFICE 1288 Columbus Ave., Suite 292

On the coast, you can discover hidden coves and pristine beaches where San Francisco, CA 94133

you can surf, kayak, swim or paddle board. In the cities, catch world-class TEL: 1-888-700-4464 FAX: 416-497-0871
E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com
opera, symphony, jazz or theater. Head to the desert for restful spas, dramatic californiatravelguide.travel
landscapes and surprising museums, not to mention one of the countrys top The Travel Guide to California is published by
music festivals. Globelite Travel Marketing Inc., a leading
lifestyle media company and publisher of
California is San Diegos summer sun, Los Angeles entertainment glitz, San The Travel Guides to Canada, The Travel Guide to
Florida, The Travel Guide to California, and
Franciscos famous bridges and Silicon Valleys technological innovation. Its also Dreamscapes Travel and Lifestyle Magazine.
Death Valley National Park, Lake Tahoe, Yosemite National Park, the volcanic peak
CANADIAN OFFICE Globelite Travel Marketing Inc.
of Mount Shasta, the fertile Central Valley that feeds the nation. In short, its every- 3 Bluwood Drive
Toronto, Ontario
thing you could hope it to be, all linked by the network of long and winding roads M2H 3L4
TEL: 416-497-5353, 1-888-700-4464
that take you wherever you want to go and are part of the adventure. FAX: 416-497-0871
In these pages we help you prepare, with proles of the states 14 tourism E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com
californiatravelguide.travel
regions, essays on history, cuisine, museums, theme parks and many other
No part of this publication can be reproduced or
topics, plus resource pages with information on visitors bureaus, driving dis- duplicated without the written permission of
Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. The opinions in this
tances, California Welcome Centers and more. magazine are those of the writers and do not
As you make your plans for a trip to the Golden State, youll have a lot to necessarily reect the views of Globelite Travel
Marketing Inc. Publications Mail Agreement
look forward to. California oers a profound richness of experience, and 40047932. Contents copyright 2017
RNE Mc CABE

much like the center of that labyrinth on the blus in San Francisco, its all Printed in Canada
within easy reach, peppered with pleasant surprises along the way. ISSN 1926-304X (Print)
ISSN 1927-7245 (Online)
L A R RY H A B EG G E R , Editor

10 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 DISCOVER
California Dreaming
The Golden State is a special place with a worlds worth of experiences to be savored
LOS ANGELES
When the popular 60s musical group
The Mamas & the Papas sang of
California Dreamin, it was LA they were
musing about, a place of glitter and
glamour and stars where dreams could
come true. A favorite place to imagine
those dreams is high atop Mount
Hollywood at Grith Observatory,
especially at night, when stars in the sky
seem to fall over the city below and
anything seems possible.
16 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
THE SEDUCTIVE STATE OF CALIFORNIA
is large in every sense of the word. Its the
most populous state in the U.S. and the third
largest in terms of geographical size. Its
economy ranks sixth in the entire world.
When it comes to visitor attractions, Cali-
fornia presents travelers with as wide a range
of riches as many countries. Whether youre
passionate about natural activities, cultural
pursuits or dining and wining, the Golden
State has diverse delights to entice you.
Outdoor Adventurer
If youre a nature lover and active adven-
turer, youll be dazzled by the states
spectacular spectrum. On the western edge
theres the Pacific Ocean, the largest body
of water in the world, perfect for surfing,
sailing and swimming. In the east there are
the magnificent mountains of the Sierra
Nevada, a haven for skiers and snow-
boarders in winter and hikers and
bicyclists in summer. This region is home
to Mount Whitney, the tallest mountain in
the Lower 48 and a mecca for climbers,
topping off at 14,505 feet. Among Cali-
fornias most moving experiences are
walking through the natural cathedral of
Muir Woods and camping in the granite
grandeur of Yosemite National Park.
For boaters, birders and fishermen,
theres Lake Shasta, home to an abundance
BY DON GEORGE
of fish and fowl. For whitewater fans, more
than a dozen rivers, including the mighty
American and Sacramento, provide
thrilling rides. Kayakers and canoers find
paradise in Point Reyes National Seashore
in the north and watery wonders at Morro
Bay on the central coast.
In the southern part of the state, visitors
savor the sere splendors of the Mojave
Desert and Death Valley, the lowest point
in North America, 282 feet below sea level.
If tide pooling tempts you, Shaws Cove
tide pools in the Laguna Beach State
Marine Reserve and the Terranea tide
pools in the Point Vicente State Marine
Conservation Area in Rancho Palos Verdes
showcase sea anemones, crabs, urchins,
sea slugs, sea stars and more. The five
islands of Channel Islands National Park,
accessible only by boat or plane from Ven-
tura and Oxnard, provide a peaceful,
pristine home for more than 2,000 plant
and animal species, including 145 found
nowhere else on the planet.
Cultural Connoisseur
If you love culture, youll find a treasure
trove of activities in the Golden State, from
museum and art gallery exhibitions to
shops showcasing contemporary handi-
crafts and timeworn antiques, and from
performances of theater, dance and music
SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK
to displays at aquariums and hands-on
education centers.
For music, the world-class concert halls of
Los Angeles and San Francisco are well-
known, but equally appealing are smaller
sites such as theRedlands Bowl in the Inland
Empire city of Redlands, where an elegant
amphitheater spotlights Californias oldest
free concert series, presenting everything
from classical music to bluegrass bands each
summer, or the Joan and Sanford I. Weill Hall
on the California State University Sonoma
campus, where warm-weather concert-goers
can spread a blanket on the terraced lawn for
an alfresco music fest.
A lively variety of performances,
including ballet, theater, variety shows,
comedy and even onstage conversations,
are presented at Oaklands ornately Art
Deco Paramount Theater. Another multi-
faceted venue lovingly restored to its
former glory is Fresnos Warnors Center for
the Performing Arts, listed on the National
Register of Historic Places and distin-
guished by a pipe organ that replicates the
sound of a full orchestra.
From the Siskiyou County Museum in
Yreka to the San Diego Museum of Art,
museums and galleries celebrating history,
human endeavor and artistic heritage
abound throughout the state. Creative
exploring will yield access to small-scale
museums that specialize in everything
from comics and cable cars to surfing and
sewing. Other outstanding educational
institutions that focus on interactive
experiences include the Monterey Bay
Aquarium, the California Academy of
Sciences and the Exploratorium.
Food Aficionado
For food aficionados, California is a wonder-
land of tastes, textures and innovative
culinary creations. One of the most
delightful and enlightening experiences is
visiting a farmers market, where fresh-
from-the-farm produce will be on delicious
display and fresh-from-the-field farmers
will be happy to offer samples and stories.
Farmers markets can now be found
throughout the state. As a further outgrowth
of the popularity of these markets, more and
more farms are now offering visitors the
opportunity to pay to pick their own straw-
berries, peaches or plums and savor the
sweetness of just-plucked fruit. Some farms
even offer travelers the chance to stay and
work, which reveals from the inside the rites
and rhythms of modern farm life.
California is the birthplace of California
cuisine, of course, a culinary revolution
spearheaded by Berkeleys Alice Waters
whose Chez Panisse is still serving
extraordinary food 46 years after it
opened. That revolution has spawned
numerous other channels of creative culi-
nary freshness and fusion, blending Asian,
European and Latin American ingredients
and traditions, which are showcased
throughout the state. As Alice Waters and
her followers focused attention on local
purveyors, food-related opportunities for
travelers expanded. One result today is the
California Cheese Trail, an interactive web-
site (cheesetrail.org) that features artisanal
cheese makers throughout the state, as
well as the Sonoma Marin Cheese Trail
map that highlights cheese makers from
Point Reyes and Valley Ford to Santa Rosa
and Sonoma.
Wine trails have long drawn travelers to
California, but these have expanded as
well in recent years. In addition to world-
renowned regions such as Napa and
Sonoma, up-and-coming areas that offer
their own winery routes include Liver-
more, Paso Robles, Madera and Temecula.
Whatever interest has drawn you to Cal-
ifornia, youll find almost infinite reasons
to be seduced and stay.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 17
 HISTORY
A Home for Immigrants and Entrepreneurs
Innovation and starting fresh are embedded in Californias cultural DNA
THE GOLD RUSH
The California Gold Rush (1848-1855)
brought a tide of people to the state
and turned the sleepy hamlet of San
Francisco into an instant city. Later, in
1859, miners discovered gold in Mono
County east of the Sierra Nevada,
where the town of Bodie swelled to
10,000 people in 1880. The mill and
houses in Bodie State Historic Park,
above, date to 1861. Today, Bodie is a
well-preserved ghost town.
18 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
The Spanish Franciscan friar blessing an
adobe church at Mission Basilica San Diego
de Alcal in 1769; the Chilean miner trying
his luck panning for gold in a cold Sierra
cataract in 1849; the Chinese laborer
crossing the heaving Pacic to work on the
transcontinental railroad in 1869; the
African American leaving the South to build
warships on the Oakland waterfront in
1942; the Haight-Ashbury hippie with her
wakeful dreaming in San Franciscos
Summer of Love in 1967; the Indian engi-
neer launching a high-tech startup in Palo
Alto in 2017, all have something in
common: starting over.
The United States is said to be a place
where the world comes to begin againto
reinvent itself, in the current coinage. If so,
BY DAVID ARMSTRONG
BJUL/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SERGEY NOVIKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK; WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK; MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK
California is the America of America. This
was so even in pre-history, when the rst
migrants from Asia crossed the land bridge
between Siberia and Alaska, hung a right,
walked southward, found pastures of
plenty, rich marine life and heart-stop-
pingly beautiful mountains and either
decided to keep walking or stop right where
they were.
The place wasnt called California then,
of course. That came later, the name taken
from a 16th-century Spanish novel and used
by explorers, soldiers and missionaries,
who were themselves starting over in the
New World. The Spanish built 21 Roman
Catholic missions, from San Diego in the
south to Sonoma in the north, from 1769 to
1823. In converting native communities to
 The highest point in the
continental United States,
14,505-foot Mount Whitney, and
NATURES
EXTREMES
the lowest point, 282 feet below
sea level in Death Valley, are
about 100 miles apart in
Southern California.

Christianity, the newcomers overwhelmed native

cultures. Of necessity, the Native Americans
started over in a bewildering new world.
In 1821, Mexico, with its remote northernmost
province, Alta California, wrenched itself free of
the Spanish Empire. In 1833, the missions were
secularized by the Mexican government and
abandoned. Their buildings moldered, their pio-
neering vineyards and olive groves were
eventually overgrown and forgotten. Not until the
20th century were the missions restored and
revived. Many ourish today as redoubts of his-
THE STARK BUT BEAUTIFUL
tory and contemporary worship, handsome,
landscape of Death Valley, top;
evocative reminders of the rst major European a souvenir from the Panama
presence. Pacic International
Exposition of 1915, above;
The Gold Rush Mission San Carlos Borromeo
de Carmelo, also known as the
Alta California grew slowly in its isolation. That
Carmel Mission, right; the
changed on January 24, 1848, with the discovery Gaslamp Quarter in San
of gold on the American River. The California Diego, below.
Gold Rush, beginning in earnest in 1849, gave for-
tune-seekers a secondsome said a lastchance
to make good. Half-a-million newcomersmany
from Europe, Asia, Latin America and Africa
globalized California in a hurry. The Mexican
descendants of Spanish settlersthe Californios,
with their sprawling ranchos and lives attuned to
the slow turning of the seasonswere swept
aside, left to start over.
Many 49ers stayed on and found another kind
of gold: richly productive new lives in a place
where beginning afreshpersonally, nancially,
even spirituallywas already a common rite of
passage. In 1850, pried loose by the U.S. victory in
the Mexican War and accelerated by the Gold
Rush, California became the 31st state of the
United States. New Californians brought the new
Golden State into being, plowing its elds,
founding its great universities, building its cities.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 19
 HISTORY
ARTICHOKE
QUEEN
Castroville, an agricultural
town of 6,500 in Monterey
County that calls itself the
artichoke center of the world, is
home to expansive elds
planted with this tasty member
of the thistle family. The
annual Castroville Artichoke
Food and Wine Festival,
featuring the likes of fried,
sauted and grilled artichokes,
along with music and three-
dimensional vegetable art,
takes place on the rst
weekend in June at the
Monterey County Fairgrounds.
In 1948, Castroville crowned
visiting starlet Norma Jean
Baker as Californias Artichoke
Queen. Norma Jean later won
fame under her new name,
Marilyn Monroe.
HOLLYWOODLAND, a housing
development established in 1923 marked
by this sign on Beachwood Drive, top, was
the inspiration for the famous Hollywood
sign; Marilyn Monroe, above.
20 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Californias lustrous reputation was tar-
nished on the morning of April 18, 1906,
when a massive earthquake rocked
Northern California and leveled much of
San Francisco; what the rolling, rumbling
ground didnt knock down, the ensuing
restorm burned down. Some 3,000 people
died. Now, it was San Franciscos turn to
start over. San Francisco dramatized its
recovery, and celebrated the new Panama
Canal linking the Atlantic and the Pacic,
with the splendidly showy Panama-Pacic
International Exposition of 1915.
The Rise of Hollywood
Just two years after that optimistic display, the
nation plunged into World War I. After the
war ended in 1918, still more migrants rushed
to California. In 1920, Los Angeles (and much
later San Diego and San Jose) surged past San
Francisco in population. The orange groves
and dusty byways of old Los Angeles began
morphing into LAmore specically, and
more mythically, Hollywood.
Actors, writers, directors and producers
streamed to Los Angeles, growing a quiet
cottage industry of silent motion pictures
into a technologically advanced business.
Stars were born in a place that came to be
called the dream factory. Not a few of the
Dust Bowl migrants who left the drought-
stricken Midwest for California in the 1930s
got their rst impressions of their new
home from the dream-weavers of Holly-
wood. In the 1940s, creative people from
Europe such as Billy Wilder and Thomas
Mann, eeing fascism and war to begin
anew, lent the movies an Old World artistic
sensibility.
Californias story since World War II has
featured growth and more growth. Com-
bined with in-country migration, global
immigration made California the most pop-
ulous state in the Union in 1962.
A Center for Change
From the 1960s on, California has been, in a
positive sense, the most disruptive state in the
nation. Student political activism, the hip
counter-culture and early awakenings of the
New Age movement found fertile ground in
California. The in-season, sustainable, slow-
food movement arguably took root fastest in
California. American environmentalism in
large part began in California, when Scottish
immigrant John Muir founded the Sierra Club
in San Francisco back in 1892 and took Presi-
dent Theodore Roosevelt camping amid the
natural wonders of Yosemite Valley in 1903.
From the 1980s on, Silicon Valley has
joined Hollywood as a creative lodestar for
JOHNNY HABELL/SHUTTERSTOCK; LUCIAN MILASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK
the whole planet. In the present decade,Sil-
icon Valley reached northward,dramatically
transforming the economy and even the cul-
ture of San Francisco. The high-technology
world has enshrined risk-taking, innovation,
learning from failure andyou guessed it
starting over. Quoting another California
innovation, the 1960s Whole Earth Catalog,
Apples Steve Jobs urged Stanford University
graduates in a commencement speech in
2005 to stay hungry, stay foolish.
Californians, across centuries and cul-
tures, always have.
 CITIES
Surprising Cities
Californias smaller towns offer big attractions
OAKLAND
The Grand Lake Theatre in
Oakland, above, opened in 1926 with
vaudeville shows and silent movies,
then with the arrival of talkies,
focused exclusively on the new lm
medium, which it does to this day.
22 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Californias golden citiesLos Angeles,
San Francisco, San Diegoare celebrated
around the world, and rightly so. But the
Golden State boasts an engaging range of
things to see and do in less-well-known
locales, as well. In cities ranging in size
from 5,000 inhabitants to nearly 400,000,
a surprising, eclectic menu of food and
drink, art and architecture, history and
sports is available to visitors.
OAKLAND: Overshadowed No More
Few California cities are as surprising as Oak-
land. Long in the shadow of glamorous San
Francisco, the East Bay city of 391,000 has a
mix of vibrancy, energy and diversity all its
own. The recent inux of technology compa-
nies and tech workers from Silicon Valley
and San Francisco is helping to turbocharge
Oakland. Jack London Square is a hive of
BY DAVID ARMSTRONG
restaurants, shops and bay ferries and home
to premier jazz club and Japanese restaurant
Yoshis. Right nearby, Ninth Streets lovingly
renovated Victorian buildings are destina-
tions for food, independent retailers and
vintage architecture. City centers Lake Mer-
ritt oers boating, waterside walking and
jogging and a cluster of cafs, bars and shops,
plus the engaging Oakland Museum of Cali-
fornia and gloriously old-school Grand Lake
Theatre movie palace. For nightlife, head to
the Uptown districts colony of restaurants
and bars, the gorgeously restored 1928
Middle Eastern fantasia the Fox Theatre and
1932 Art Deco Paramount Theatre, which
book headline performers. More great cui-
sine can be found in foodie favorite
Rockridge at accomplished eateries such as
Wood Tavern, and in the Rockridge Market
Hall in North Oakland, near Berkeley.

RYAN FORBES/AVABLU; BUELLTON VISITORS BUREAU; ERICA ZABOWSKI/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; RICHARD THORNTON/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: BONDROCKETIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK
SAN LUIS OBISPO:
Mission, Vineyards & the Outdoors
Nestled between the Pacic Ocean 11 miles
to the west and the Santa Lucia Mountains
just to the east, this central-coast city of
46,000 is located midway between San
Francisco and Los Angeles. Easily acces-
sible by train on Amtrak or via U.S.
Highway 101 and famously scenic Cali-
fornia Route 1, the historic core of the city
clusters around the 1759 Mission San Luis
Obispo de Tolosa. This is the place to nd
restaurants, cafs and shops. Music and
theater productions are mounted on the
campus of California Polytechnic Institute
(Cal Poly). Outdoorsy visitors and locals
hike and bike the Nine Sisters hills. The
marine-minded head to the sometimes-
chilly, foggy coast with their wetsuits for
surng, kayaking and windsurng. South
of the city is prime territory for winery
touring and tasting: the expansive Edna
Valley wine-producing region.
BUELLTON: Santa Barbara Wine
Country Getaway
Tucked away in the Santa Rita Hills in gorgeous
Santa Barbara County, this instantly likeable
small town oers an abundance of attrac-
tions. Among them: two famed restaurants,
MISSION SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO,
Sonoma, left; wine tasting at Sanford
Winery in the Santa Rita Hills near
Buellton, below; the Apple Farm Inn, San
Luis Obispo, bottom left; the Bakersfield
Californian Building is home to the local
daily newspaper, and is on the National
Register of Historic Places, bottom right.
Pea Shop Andersens, long-known foryes
its avorful pea soup, and the Hitching Post
II, featured in the 2004 movie Sideways,
lmed in Santa Barbara Countys Wine
Country, and now a cult favorite. If youre a
golfer, check out the 9-hole, par-3 Zaca Creek
municipal golf course smack in the center of
town. Buelltons Santa Ynez Botanic Garden
oers close-up looks at native plants in
River View Park. Local lodging is recently
revamped, with an extensive renovation of
the Marriott and the Sideways Inn; sched-
uled to open in spring 2017 is a new
Hampton Inn. Buellton is located on U.S. 101
just north of Santa Barbara.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 23
 CITIES
THE SIERRA TAVERN is one of many
historic buildings in downtown Truckee,
right; the Old Church Plaza, Bakerseld,
bottom; tall ship Hawaiian Chieftan with
the Carson Mansion in the background,
Eureka, opposite top.

BAKERSFIELD: Buck Owens & Basques

Calling all honky-tonk angels: Bakerseld
may just be a must-stop. Once home to the
late country-music legends Merle Haggard
and Buck Owens, this San Joaquin Valley
communitys workaday, unpretentious
facade masks a city of surprises. Located
inland and northwest of Los Angeles, Bak-
erseld is reached via California routes 99
and 58. The city of 347,000 is home to one
of the largest and most vibrant Basque com-
munities in the United States. Family-style
Basque restaurants like Wool Growers temporary country musicians. Its a ne hot. The combination of golf and ne
Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge and the place to listen to a swooning steel guitar by weather makes it a strong draw for snow-
Pyrenees Caf add diversity to the down- the light of the jukebox. birds temporarily eeing less salubrious
home cooking of Bakerselds truck stops climes. Located 130 miles east of Los
and roadside diners. Fans of country music LA QUINTA: Golf, Hiking & Desert Sun Angeles and 130 miles east of San Diego on
can drop by Buck Owens Crystal Palace, This desert town of 40,000 is a favorite des- Interstate 10, La Quinta is in the Coachella
with its mementos of Owens and his band, tination for golfers, especially in winter Valley, anked by the rocky Santa Rosa
the Buckeroos, and catch a show by con- when La Quinta is winningly warm but not Mountains. The city oers no fewer than
ve public golf courses of championship
caliber and is a host city for the PGA Tours
Career Building Challenge, formerly the

BENNY MARTY/SHUTTERSTOCK; RICHARD THORNTON/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: REDWOOD COAST

Bob Hope Classic. Silver Rock Resort fea-
tures an Arnold Palmer Classic Course,
while refurbished circa-1926 La Quinta
Resort likewise oers a classic course. A
prime getaway for early Hollywood celebri-
ties, including populist everyman lm
director Frank Capra, La Quinta Resort is
perhaps the best-known local hotel. Dont
play golf? Hiking and biking are also pop-
ular choices.

EUREKA: Redwoods & Victorians

In the northwestern corner of California,
Eureka, 270 miles north of San Francisco on
Humboldt Bay, has the largest deep-water
port between San Francisco Bay and

24 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

Washingtons Puget Sound. The city of
27,000 also serves as the unocial capital
of the states Redwood Empire. Once famed
for its timber, mines and sheries, Eureka
is a leading West Coast purveyor of succu-
lent farmed oysters. Most signicantly for
visitors, Eureka oers an attractive preserve
of Victorian architecture such as the grand
nd
1886 Carson Mansion at 2 and M streets.
Shops, restaurants and B&Bs occupy some
of a staggering 1,500 Eureka buildings
listed on the National Register of Historic
Places. One-million-acre Six Rivers National
Forest is a near neighbor.
SONOMA: Wine & a Whole Lot More
Laid out around a traditional Mexican plaza
bordered by heritage buildings, this city of
11,000 an hour north of San Francisco grew
up around Mission San Francisco Solano.
The northernmost and last of the Roman
Catholic missions built by Franciscan friars
along the north-south spine of California,
the 1823 adobe with its historic olive groves
is still a focal point of spiritual and cultural
life. Sonoma was home to the 25-day Bear
Flag Revolt and Republic of California of
1846, an American uprising against Mexican
authorities that led to California statehood
in 1850. The plazas mid 19th-century build-
ings now comprise Sonoma State Historic
Park. Contemporary Sonoma is a family-
friendly getaway and jumping-o point
to Sonoma Valley wineries and the Sonoma
County coast. A variety of appealing restau-
rants and one-of-a-kind shops thrive on
and near the plaza, as does the 1931 Sebastiani
Theatre cinema. The Fairmont Sonoma
Mission Inn & Spa is a popular resort hotel
with a respected ne-dining restaurant in
Sante, while the Basque Boulangerie Caf
on the plaza draws visitors and locals alike.
TRUCKEE:
Classic Western Mountain Town
An atmospheric Nevada County hub of
16,000 on the western slopes of the Sierra
Nevada, Truckee is a classic Western
mountain town. As a frontier settlement
in the mid 19th century, it played a key
role in American westward migration
along the Emigrant Trail. Historically a
lumber and ice production center, con-
temporary Truckee is an urban base for
exploring the Sierra and visiting Lake
Tahoe. Some 200 miles east of San Fran-
cisco and 12 miles north of Lake Tahoe,
Truckee, with an elevation of nearly
6,000 feet, receives an average of 200
inches of snow, making it a winter desti-
nation for skiers, snowboarders and ice
skaters. The easily walked downtown,
just off Interstate 80 and also served by
Amtrak, claims pride of place on the
National Register of Historic Places.
FIND YOUR
CITY FUN
Bakerseld
visitbakerseld.com, 866-425-7353
Buellton
visitbuellton.com, 800-324-3800
Eureka
redwoods.info, 800-346-3482
La Quinta
visitgreaterpalmsprings.com/
our-cities/la-quinta, 800-967-3767
Oakland
visitoakland.org, 510-839-9000
San Luis Obispo
visitslo.com, 805-781-2777
Sonoma
sonomavalley.com, 866-996-1090
sonomacounty.com, 800-576-6662
Truckee
truckee.com, 866-443-2027
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 25
 SUMMER SPORTS BY BILL FINK

Adrenaline Rush
Californias seashores and mountain summits provide inspiration to get outdoors and play

SURFING AT
HUNTINGTON
BEACH
A.K.A. Surf City USA, Huntington
Beach draws surfers of all ages,
above, into the water. The town in
Orange County is known for its
prominent pier that dates to 1904, its
9.5-mile long beach and beach
culture.
The California ideal of sun, surf and sand
has been popularized in decades of lm
and TV shows, from Beach Blanket Bingo to
Baywatch. But visitors to California in the
summer can discover even more of the
states natural beauty heading inland to
majestic national parks.
Sports
Take a walk to the pier in Manhattan Beach
in Southern California on any given day and
youll see surfers whipping around the
waves, volleyball players diving in the sand,
and bikers and skateboarders rolling along
HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB. OPPOSITE: MARCI PARAVIA/SHUTTERSTOCK; BEN FISH; MENDOCINO COUNTY CVB
the Strand. Drive the hills near San Francisco
on a sunny weekend afternoon, and in a
matter of minutes youll pass pelotons of
road bikers, and hikers, horseback riders and
mountain bikers launching onto trailheads.
In the shadow of the Golden Gate Bridge,
eets of sailboats ride ocean breezes, while
the wind powers kiteboarders and wind-
surfers into acrobatics as mellow joggers
and their dogs enjoy the spectacle from
shoreline pathways. North and south, young
and old, Californians love their sports, and
the state provides limitless opportunities to
ply your favorite or try a new one.

26 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SAILING in the Santa Barbara Channel
o the Ventura coast, right; snorkeling
at Van Damme State Park, Mendocino
County, center; mountain biking at Lake
Tahoe, bottom.

On Land
California has some of the worlds best golf,
including the legendary seaside Pebble
Beach Golf Links, home of Bill Murrays
favorite annual event, the AT&T National
Pro-Am tournament. Or try any one of the
hundreds of public and private clubs scat-
tered across the state. If you arent into the
clubs, grab a frisbee and try some disc golf at
one of the more than 200 California courses.
Mountain and road biking are great ways
to get a workout while experiencing the
states landscape, whether it be from tricky
single-track downhill trails around Lake
Tahoe, atter cross-country trips or perhaps
an urban ride using San Franciscos Bike
Share program. Skateboarding is practically
the state sport, with skateparks seen every-
where from the sports birthplace at Venice
Beach to the smallest inland town.
For a dierent sort of ride, make like
native son John Wayne and saddle up for
some horseback riding on trails near cities,
around dude ranches or on multi-day wilder-
ness journeys. If desert sands dont appeal to
you, try those on the beaches of Southern Cal-
ifornia that are lined with volleyball nets for
pickup games and professional tournaments.
California sunshine is also good for year-
round tennis, be it on public courts or at a
posh resort. And the tness-crazy culture of
California provides plenty of opportunities to
join outdoor workout bootcamps and yoga
sessions in city parks.

In Water
California has more than 840 miles of
coastline along the Pacic Ocean, a prime
launching spot for every manner of water
sport, including surng, sailing, SCUBA and

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 27
 SUMMER SPORTS

YOGA AT BACARA BLUFF, Santa Barbara,

above; the nal stretch of the climb of Half
Dome at Yosemite National Park, right.

sea kayaking. California has fully embraced waters. Surf breaks range from 50-foot
stand-up paddle boarding, with many monster waves in Half Moon Bay to more
rental shops bordering lakes and the ocean. gentle rollers around Manhattan Beach.
Catalina Island and the kelp forests of Mon- Marinas dot the coast from north to south,
terey Bay are popular diving spots, but be where experienced sailors can rent power
sure to wear a wetsuit in the chilly Pacic yachts for deep-sea shing or sailboats to
ride the winds.
Moving inland, gentle streams and scat-
FIND
YOUR FUN
tered lakes provide fertile sport-shing
grounds, while melting mountain snow
can create raging rapids for kayaking and
rafting enthusiasts, but those looking for a
gentle river oat on an inner tube with a
Biking
bikecal.com beer cooler can still nd their spots.
labikepaths.com
Boating is popular with waterskiers and
sfbike.org
wakeboarders across the Sacramento Delta
Boating and at a huge number of marinas on lakes
dbw.ca.gov
and reservoirs throughout the state.
Climbing
mountainproject.com/v/
California/105708959 The Great Outdoors
rockclimbing.org California boasts 32 national parks,
tains Wilderness to relaxed, hour-long
walking tours through the gentle winding
paths of Muir Woods, easily accessible from
nearby San Francisco.
A trip to the bubbling volcanic pools at
Lassen Volcanic National Park or to the Dr.
Seuss-like trees of Joshua Tree can make
visitors feel theyre on another planet,
while sunset in Yosemite Valley with views
of towering waterfalls can make it seem like
youre in heaven.
Californias many mountains mean
climbing is a popular activity, be it a hike up
14,505-foot Mount Whitney (the highest
point in the continental U.S.) or technical
rock climbing routes from the easy to the
extreme in legendary areas such as Yosemite,
Joshua Tree and Pinnacles national parks.
Californias state ag features a bear, and
you may see some among the wildlife
during your outdoor journeys. Black bears,

Golf seashores and monuments, 280 state parks mountain lions, rattlesnakes and coyotes
pga.com/golf-courses/details/CA and a plethora of wilderness areas, nature put the wild in California wildlife, but
preserves and other outdoor playgrounds. careful visitors should have no problem
SANTA BARBARA CVB; ONNES/SHUTTERSTOCK

Disc Golf
pdga.com With landscapes ranging from the sheer with them. Abundant migratory and native
clis of Yosemite to the searing deserts of birdlife makes California a prime birding
Horseback Riding
horseandtravel.com/states/california Death Valley and the scenic shorelines of destination, while at sea, whale watching is
the Channel Islands, California oers a life- a perennial tourist favorite. Even without
SCUBA
Californiadiver.com time of outdoor opportunities for the an organized tour, visitors can walk to view
visitor. Exploration options range from sea lions on San Francisco and Santa Cruz
Surfing
surfingcalifornia.com multi-day backpacking trips for the hardy piers, and observe sea otters playing in the
in remote areas such as the Marble Moun- surf at Monterey.

28 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 WINTER SPORTS
BY BILL FINK
No Time to Hibernate
Californias many winter activities provide lots of reasons to get outdoors

SKIING
MAMMOTH LAKES
Snow play isnt usually foremost
in peoples minds when they Southern California has long been Angeles. But for those seeking winter
think of California, but the state known as a warm-weather winter vacation sports, there may be no better place on
has some of the best skiing in the

TODD ROBERTSON. OPPOSITE: TREY CLARK; GALINA BARSKAYA/SHUTTERSTOCK

West, with the area around Lake
Tahoe oering more options than
anywhere in North America.
A couple and their dog cross-
country ski at Mammoth Lakes,
above.
area, with sports and outdoor activities
centered in San Diego and Los Angeles and
desert retreats like Palm Springs. But the
mountains of Lake Tahoe, Mammoth Lakes
and Yosemite and across the Sierra Nevada
range beckon winter visitors who want to
embrace snow-based sports and recreation.
Sports
In winter, Southern California is still an
oasis for outdoor sports and adventure,
from golf to tennis, hiking and horseback
riding, whether in the still-baking desert
around Palm Springs or the perpetually
pleasant vacationland of San Diego or Los
earth than the mountains surrounding
Lake Tahoe. The area hosted the 1960
Winter Olympics at Squaw Valley and con-
tinues to be home base for many U.S.
Winter Olympians who bang moguls, rip
the half-pipes and race on downhill runs at
more than a dozen area ski resorts. For the
non-extreme, plenty of beginner trails,
group lessons and smaller hills oer a safe
introduction to the sport.
Tahoe ski resorts including Squaw Valley,
Northstar and Heavenly also oer ice skating
rinks and inner tube runs for those looking
for more mellow activities, best compli-
mented with a re pit and toasted

30 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SKATERS ENJOY the ice in Yosemite Valley,
right; a snowboarder gets some air above
Lake Tahoe, bottom.

marshmallows and hot cocoa for dessert.

Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing
courses dot the Tahoe area, oering a brisk
aerobic workout amidst pine forests and
sweeping mountain scenery. South of Tahoe,
Mammoth Mountain boasts a world-class
ski resort, while Bear Mountain oers skiing
within a reasonable commute from Los
Angeles, enabling the highly motivated to
surf and ski in a single day. Outside of the ski
resorts, snowmobiling provides high-octane
motor sport fun, while dogsledding is a way
to enjoy a dierent sort of ride with some
furry friends. For the adventurous, remote
backcountry skiing, the increasingly popular
sidecountry Alpine Touring connected to and then retire to one of their lodges for spe- Winter also is the time when visitors can
the ski resorts, ice climbing and hut-to-hut cial winter food and wine events. Hot springs spot many animals migrating south to
hiking in the Sierra Nevada mountains can around Mammoth Lakes provide toasty out- follow the sun. From massive gray whales
feed ones winter hunger for adrenaline. door relaxation with a view of snowcapped to miniature monarch butteries, ocks of
mountains. Or, perhaps bundle up and climb birds in the central wetlands and pods of
The Great Outdoors a mountain for prime star-gazing opportuni- seals come to mate on the shores of the
Step away from organized resort sports and ties in the crisp and clear mountain air, then Pacic, the worlds wildlife also seems to
theres still a wealth of winter outdoor add a few more layers and try some ice think that Californias outdoors is a great
activities in California. The bears may be shing on a high alpine lake. place to visit in winter.
hibernating but that doesnt mean you have
to as well. Avoiding the hot summer

FIND YOUR
months means visitors can enjoy temperate
winter hiking and camping opportunities
in desert parks such as Death Valley, Joshua
SPORT
Tree and around Palm Springs (but be fore-
warned that the nights can still get frigid). Skiing
Prior to snowfall, the Sierra Nevada moun- skilaketahoe.com
mammothmountain.com
tain forests are ablaze with colorful fall
bearmountain.com
foliage, making a hike through the hills a xcski.org
prime shoulder season activity.
Hiking/Camping
Wintertime provides an escape from the travelyosemite.com
summer crowds often found in Yosemite nps.gov/state/ca
www.parks.ca.gov
National Park. Visit the near-empty wilder-
ness to enjoy a quiet blanket of snow Wildlife
whalewatching.com/california
covering towering clis, the sun glistening
audubon.org/news/birding-california
o frozen waterfalls and the mued wildlife.ca.gov
clomping sound of guided snowshoe tours

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 31
 THEME PARKS
Not Just for Kids
Theres nothing but fun at Californias theme parks
AMUSEMENT PARKS
Europeans started the concept of
amusement parks centuries ago with
fairs and pleasure gardens created for
peoples recreation. The worlds oldest
amusement park is Bakken, just
north of Copenhagen, Denmark,
which opened in 1583. The oldest
theme park in the United States is
Holiday World & Splashin Safari
(called Santa Claus Land from its
opening in 1946 until 1984) in Santa
Claus, Indiana. Californias theme
parks date from 1950.
32 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Diversions are as plentiful as sunshine
in California. One of the most popular
outlets: original theme parks. These attrac-
tions are meccas to amusement, each
focusing rides and exhibits around dif-
ferent concepts such as fairies, lm, plastic
blocks, sea life and an inimitable mouse.
Most of the parks are situated in the
southern part of the state (where the
weather is generally warmer), but the
granddaddy of them all is up north. Each of
the parks is worth a closer look.
Universal Studios Hollywood
This lm-themed park got its formal start in
the 1960s when walk-throughs of Universal
Studios soundstages and sets were
expanded to include peeks at actual produc-
tion. Over the years, the studio added a tram
to shuttle visitors through the back lot; this
tram remains the best way to experience
stunt demonstrations and staged events
(such as an encounter with the shark from
BY MATT VILLANO
DAVID SPRAGUE/UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD. OPPOSITE: CDRIN/SHUTTERSTOCK; CARLOS/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; THE WORLD IN HDR/SHUTTERSTOCK
Jaws). In 2016 the park opened its most
anticipated attraction ever: The Wizarding
World of Harry Potter, complete with a
replica of Hogwarts castle and a recreation
of the shops of Hogsmeade. The ocial
studio tour commemorated its 50th anniver-
sary in 2015 with the opening of a new grand
nale dubbed Fast & Furious: Supercharged.
The rest of the park is divided into two
areas connected by escalator: the Upper
and Lower lots. Transformers: The Ride 3-D
is a fan-favorite on the Lower Lot. On the
Upper Lot, Despicable Me Minion Mayhem,
a 3-D simulator ride, and Super Silly Fun
Land, an outdoor family-friendly play-
ground, both opened in April 2014.
Childrens Fairyland
Believe it or not, the rst theme park in the
U.S. to cater to families with young kids was
Childrens Fairyland, a blink-and-youll-
miss-it theme park on the shores of Lake
Merritt in Oakland. The place opened in
1950 (original admission started between 9
and 14 cents), making it the rst ocial
theme park in California, as well. According
to some, it was one of Walt Disneys inspira-
tions for the eponymous park he created ve
years later.
Today, Fairyland includes small rides such
as a mini Ferris wheel and carousels, and life-
sized sets depicting scenes from timeless
storybooks (Pinocchios castle and the
Humpty Dumpty wall are two favorites). The
theme park also is home to the Storybook
Puppet Theater, which opened in 1956. A
number of the countrys most famous pup- CHILDRENS FAIRYLAND at Lake
peteers got their start here, including a Merritt, Oakland, above; Disney
teenager by the name of Frances Oznowicz. characters and the Disneyland band,
You likely know him as Frank Oz. right; Kung Fu Panda, below; roller coaster
Medusa, the longest and highest coaster
in Northern California at Six Flags
Disneyland Discovery Kingdom, Vallejo, bottom;
If the lovable (and life-sized) Mickey Mouse Flight of the Hippogri at the Wizarding
and friends dont pique your interest and World of Harry Potter, Universal Studios
attention at Californias most famous theme Hollywood, opposite.

park, surely the rides will. The park, which

opened in 1955, features rides for all ages,
including some of the most ballyhooed roller
coasters anywhere in the state (one favorite
is Space Mountain, which speeds along
almost entirely in the dark).
Overall, Disneyland is divided into eight
themed areas, or lands. Some of these areas
focus on actual history: Frontierland recre-
ates the setting of the American frontier,
while Main Street U.S.A. is patterned after a
small Midwestern town (many believe Walt
Disney got his inspiration from his own boy-
hood town of Marceline, Missouri).
The park opened with one hotel, but since
the 1990s it has grown exponentially, adding
a new theme park (Disneys California Adven-
ture), a shopping district (Downtown Disney)
and two additional hotels. One of the newest
attractions, Cars Land, was inspired by the
Cars movies, and opened in June 2012. In
2017 the park will welcome Star Wars Land,
and will convert the Twilight Zone Tower of
Terror into a ride aligned with the Guardians
of the Galaxy brand.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 33
 THEME PARKS
RIDE at Californias Great America, Santa
Clara, right.
Other Bay Area Parks
The San Francisco Bay Area is home to two
other popular parks: Californias Great
America (in Santa Clara) and Six Flags Dis-
covery Kingdom (in Vallejo).
Great America, next to the new Levis Sta-
dium, is all about rides. Diversions range
from scream-inducing (Flight Deck, a roller
coaster, has one 360-degree loop and a zero-
gravity roll) to family-friendly (the Carousel
Columbia is the worlds tallest double-
decker carousel). In 2015, the park expanded
the Planet Snoopy kids area and added three
new attractions, including two new racing
rides. Patriot, the parks rst oorless roller
coaster, is expected to debut in 2017.
The vibe at Discovery Kingdom is more
eclectic. In addition to rides such as the
Medusa roller coaster and SkyScreamer (a
swing ride), the park also is home to a
number of animals, including Jocko the
walrus, who starred in the 2004 movie, 50
First Dates, and Brandon the reticulated
girae, who was named after San Francisco
Giants slugger, Brandon Belt. In 2015, park
ocials added the Dare Devil Chaos Coaster,
a roller coaster that takes passengers upside-
down in both forward and backward
directions. In 2017, the park expects to add a
Wonder Woman-themed swing ride.
San Diego Area Parks
San Diego and its surrounding suburbs also
comprise a great region for theme parks;
two family favorites are SeaWorld and
Legoland California.
Out near Mission Bay, in San Diego proper,
SeaWorld is a sprawling homage to dozens of
dierent species of marine life, including
dolphins, sea lions, walruses, polar bears and
beluga whales. It also is one of only two
places in the world where emperor penguins
34 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
are kept in captivity. In late 2016 SeaWorld
reorganized its entertainment program to
focus more squarely on education. This
means no more animal shows, which has
kept conservation groups happy.
In the nearby community of Carlsbad,
Legoland is dedicated to tiny plastic bricks
(dubbed Legos), and boasts mind-bog-
gling Lego replicas of famous architectural
icons (the Statue of Liberty and the Taj
Mahal among them) as well as dioramas of
seven areas of the U.S. The park incorpo-
rates rides and eateries, and is home to the
Model Shop, the headquarters for the parks
10 master builders (a window allows guests
to witness these professionals at work). In
the summer of 2013, the park also opened a
hotel; the lobby has a giant pit of Legos with
which children can play. There also are two
tremendous on-site water parks.
CityPASS
Once youve decided where to go, try City-
PASS for saving some money: In Southern
California, it knocks as much as one third o
the price of admission to Disneyland, Disney
California Adventure Park, Legoland and
SeaWorld. The Southern California CityPASS
includes back-and-forth admission to both
Disneyland Park and Disney California
Adventure Park for any three days during a
14-day period and allows you to skip the
main-entrance ticket lines. The San Fran-
cisco CityPASS includes a 3-Day Cable Car
and Muni Bus Passport and saves 42 percent
o admission for attractions such as the Cal-
ifornia Academy of Sciences, Exploratorium,
de Young Museum and Aquarium of the Bay.
The pass is valid for nine days. Buy your
CityPASS at any of the above attractions or
online at citypass.com.
FIND YOUR
FANTASY
Universal Studios Hollywood
universalstudioshollywood.com
Childrens Fairyland
fairyland.org
Disneyland
disneyland.disney.go.com
Californias Great America
cagreatamerica.com
Six Flags Discovery Kingdom
sixags.com/discoverykingdom
NICOLA BARNETT/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR
Legoland California
california.legoland.com
SeaWorld
seaworldparks.com/en/
seaworld-sandiego
Knotts Berry Farm
knotts.com
CityPASS
citypass.com
 SHOPPING
A Shoppers Paradise
Outlet bargains, high fashion, and everything in between
CALIFORNIA
SHOPPING
There are countless ways to enjoy
yourself on shopping sprees in
California, from one-of-a-kind
hole-in-the-wall shops to the
grandest department stores and
shopping districts. All of the top
brands are here, from Neiman
Marcus to Nordstrom to
Bloomingdales, and famous
districts from Orange County
malls to Rodeo Drive in Beverly
Hills, above, to San Franciscos
Union Square will give you plenty
to explore.
36 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
The Golden States iconic malls ,
bohemian shops and posh boutiques can
astound even the most jaded sophisticate.
An enticing range of Californias eclectic
creativity awaits visitors throughout the
state, from theme park collectibles to
homegrown surng gear to ne wine.
Foodies can sample fresh-made cheeses in
artisanal food shops. Fashionistas will love
San Franciscos luxurious haute couture
haunts. And art lovers can bring home an
original California landscape from a red-
wood-scented artists enclave.
California shopping safaris may entail
sighting a celebrity in a Los Angeles bou-
tique, arriving at a mall by boat or hunting
BY LENORE GREINER
bargains behind the walls of a recreated
Mesopotamian palace. And super shopping
opportunities entice savvy shoppers in mil-
lions of square feet of retail space.
SoCal Glamour
Malls sprawl throughout Los Angeles,
crowned by Rodeo Drives stratospheric
price tags. But youll nd signicant bar-
gains in rings, necklaces and other pieces
at prices up to 70 percent less than those in
Beverly Hills in the historic Jewelry District,
one of the countrys largest. More than
MICHAEL URMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK; HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB. OPPOSITE: MARK WEBER
1,500 jewelry showrooms stand roughly on
5th and 8th streets to the north and south,
and Broadway and Olive to the east and
west. Behind a facade of bas-reliefs of Baby-
lonian princes and heraldic grins, the
Citadel Outlets holds 700,000 square feet
of retail bargains inside a one-time 1929 tire
plant modeled on an ancient Assyrian
palace. And between the Farmers Market
and The Grove shopping center, the Grove
Trolley provides shoppers free rides along
First Street.
The West Hollywood Design District fea-
tures high-end fashion, interior design,
furniture, decorative arts and luxury brand
stores on Melrose Avenue and Robertson and
Beverly boulevards. Sunset Boulevards world
famous Amoeba Music is the nations largest
music emporium, stocking an overwhelming
selection of vinyl, CDs, tapes, posters and col-
lectiblesat rock-bottom prices.
In Santa Monicas breezy, three-block
pedestrian shopping mecca, Third Street
Promenade, nd the usual mall suspects,
Anthropologie, Zara and Gap, as well as
celebrity-soaked cafs and eateries.
Artsy shoppers should head to nearby
Venice Beachs hip art galleries, bookstores
and vintage shops. For bargains, drive north
to Camarillos giant 160-store Camarillo
Premium Outlets.
In Orange County, quintessential SoCal
shopping experiences await in huge open-
air malls, complete with valet parking.
Inspired by Spains Alhambra, the Irvine
Spectrum Center holds 130 stores, restau-
rants and a 21-screen cinema, anchored by
Nordstrom and Target.
Fashion Island, with its casual resort set-
ting featuring splashing fountains and a koi
pond, overlooks the Pacic. Leading with
Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdales, this
coastal center has more than 100 shops and
36 restaurants.
Beyond the malls, Laguna Beachs stylish
art galleries line streets sloping to a pretty
beach. And, if heading to Palm Springs, stop
at the 180-store Desert Hills Premium Out-
lets in Cabazon for luxury designer brands.
Southward in San Diego, begin your
shopping trip with a delightful morning at
waterside Seaport Village. Then, hop on the
Coronado Island ferry and cruise to the
Coronado Ferry Landing Shops for more
sunny shopping.
In the city center, the 16-block Gaslamp
Quarter features mall chains as well as hip
shops and art galleries occupying restored
Victorian buildings. San Diegos own Rodeo
DriveProspect Street in La Jollahas art
galleries, boutiques and sweeping Pacic
views. In coastal Carlsbad, north of San
Diego, youll nd an elegant outlet mall, the
Carlsbad Premium Outlets.
Heading north? Check out the Outlets at
Tejon, found along Interstate 5 between Los
Angeles and Bakerseld, just south of the
Highway 99 interchange at the base of the
Grapevine. The sprawling, 400,000-square-foot
mall contains the usual, Nike and Polo Ralph
Lauren, and some newcomers to the outlet
scene, H&M and Pottery Barn, among the shady
walkways and Mission Ranch architecture.
Northern California Elegance
San Franciscos massive malls and quirky
boutiques showcase the citys European
style. Join the Prada-clad parade circling
downtown Union Square to max out your
platinum card in the upscale department
stores. Stroll down nearby Maiden Lane,
once lined with Barbary Coast brothels, for
more luxury.
Nearby, the Westeld San Francisco
Centre is an architectural gem with 155
stores, restaurants and two food empo-
riums under a stunning 1908 dome.
Dont miss San Franciscos great shop-
ping neighborhoods. On Chinatowns
Stockton Street you can pick up Asian
antiques, silk clothing bargains or rare tea.
Herbal pharmacies proer Chinese medic-
inal remedies, ginseng, deer antlers or
herbs costing $100 per pound.
Near Pacic Heights, Sacramento Street
houses fancy consignment shops, luxury goods
retailers and haute couturechildrens boutiques.
Hippie culture thrives in Haight Street shops
selling incense, used records and vintage San
Francisco postcards, which make great gifts.
North Beach and Jackson Square are
famous for the legendary City Lights book-
store, Italian cafs and antique stores.
Japantown oers authentic Japanese goods,
tansu chests, bonsai and antique kimonos.
SHOPS AND CAFS on State Street, Santa
Barbara, left; shopping at Huntington Surf
& Sport, opposite top.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 37
 SHOPPING
PIER 39 is a popular tourist attraction and
shopping area in San Francisco, right;
shopping on Main Street in Saint Helena,
FIND YOUR
FASHION
bottom.
West Hollywood Design District
westhollywooddesigndistrict.com
Finally, Hayes Valley, a hipster haven, has Citadel Outlets
trendy stores and nary a chain store in sight. citadeloutlets.com

Two hours south, in Carmel-by-the-Seas The Grove

storybook village, shops display ne French
linen and European antiques. Big Surs rugged
coast inspires the art found in small art gal-
leries. On Ocean Avenue, explore designer
shopssuch as BottegaVeneta or Kate Spade
in Carmel Plaza shopping center amid
cafs,artful bronze sculptures andabundant
plants and owers.
North, in the wine country, discover arti-
sanal food shops, olive oil producers and
cheese makers on Sonomas main plaza.
thegrovela.com
pottery or jewelry found in artsy Mendo-
Santa Monica Third Street Promenade
cinos ocean view lanes. 3rdstreetpromenade.com
Yosemite Valleys majesty and history
Amoeba Music
inspire the gifts and mementos found in amoeba.com
Yosemite Museums Gift Shop, including Venice Beach
venicebeach.com/shopping
authentic Native American-woven basketry.
The Ansel Adams Gallery sells photographic San Diego Gaslamp Quarter
gaslamp.org
reproductions and collectible prints.
Coronado Ferry Landing Shops
Shopping in theme parks goes beyond coronadoferrylandingshops.com
sunscreen or souvenirs. In San Diego Zoo Seaport Village
Safari Park, The Bazaar stocks authentic seaportvillage.com

Napa Valley wineries oer ne vintages, African artifacts and unusual jewelry. In Dis- Irvine Spectrum Center
shopirvinespectrumcenter.com
and foodies will love the seasonal abun- neylands Downtown Disney District, youll
dance at Petalumas organic Green String nd surf gear and Disney collectibles. Finally, Fashion Island
shopfashionisland.com
Farm and in local farmers markets. Or the worlds largest selection of LEGOs awaits
Carlsbad Premium Outlets
explore Saint Helenas historic main street in Carlsbads LEGOLAND California Resort. premiumoutlets.com/Carlsbad
for culinary tools and vintage luxuries. From sun-splashed malls to sophisti- Outlets at Tejon
Three outlet mallsin Petaluma, Napa and cated art galleries, even the most tejonoutlets.com

Vacavilleoer brand names and mall time. experienced shopaholic can score the per- Westeld San Francisco Centre
westeld.com/sanfrancisco
fect gift or memento during a delirious
Carmel-by-the-Sea
Farther Aeld: North Coast, California shopping experience. And its all carmelcalifornia.com
Yosemite & Theme Parks located on stage sets of ocean views, moun-
Carmel Plaza
Californias wild north coast inspires tain majesty, innovative architecture and carmelplaza.com
the handcrafted furniture and handicrafts, quiet redwood groves. Sonomas Main Plaza
sonomavalley.com/sonoma.html

Mendocino Shopping
mendocino.com

Napa Premium Outlets

premiumoutlets.com/napa
JEERAWUT RITYAKUL/SHUTTERSTOCK; BOB MCCLENAHAN

Green String Farm

greenstringfarm.com

Saint Helenas Main Street

sthelena.com

Downtown Disney District

disneyland.disney.go.com/destinations/
downtown-disney-district

Yosemite National Park

nps.gov/yose

Ansel Adams Gallery

anseladams.com

38 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 ROAD TRIPS
BY JOHN FLINN

Youre in the Drivers Seat

Explore the golden roads of the Golden State

JMICHAEL URMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ASIF ISLAM/SHUTTERSTOCK; ANDREASFINK/SHUTTERSTOCK; LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK

CALIFORNIA
BRIDGES
The Bixby Creek Bridge in Big Sur,
above, is emblematic of
Californians didnt invent the car, but
Californias rugged coast and
they like to think, with some justication,
Highway 1. Completed in 1932, it
that they invented the automobile lifestyle.
remains one of the tallest single-
span concrete bridges in the
With drive-thru grocery stores, drive-
world. Other notable structures in thru pharmacies, drive-thru churches and
California include, of course, the even drive-thru mortuaries, one gets the
Golden Gate Bridge and the San feeling that if Californians could only
Francisco Bay Bridge, a invent a drive-thru delivery room they
breathtaking workhorse linking could happily go from cradle to grave
SF and Oakland.
without ever having to pull over to the curb.
California is a land of supersized dis-
tances, jumbo landscapes and big-gulp
vistas, and the best way to see it all is on a
road trip, or, better yet, a series of road trips.
Here are a few of our favorites.
Up the Coast
Northern Californians call it Highway 1
and Southern Californians call it the Pacic
Coast Highwayor, simply, the PCHbut
theres no doubt that the road that hugs the
states remarkable coastline, often close
enough to feel the salt spray, oers one of
the worlds classic driving trips.
From sun-splashed Southern California
beaches to the misty redwood forests near
the Oregon border, the journey, which
includes a few stretches on other highways,
is a touch over 1,000 miles.
The sights are so numerous we can
barely scratch the surface: The Hotel Del
Coronado, where Marilyn Monroe frol-
icked in Some Like It Hot; classic surf
breaks made famous by the Beach Boys;
star-studded Malibu; Riviera-like Santa
Barbara; Hearst Castle; Big Sur; Santa
Cruz, with its old-timey beach boardwalk;
San Francisco; Point Reyes National
Seashore; artsy Mendocino; Redwood
National Park.

40 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

A few tips: Allow far more time than you
think you need; besides the frequent diver-
sions, the road is so winding in places its
hard to average more than 30 miles per
hour. If youre prone to carsickness, this
isnt the trip for you. Keep your gas tank full
and your bladder empty. In some areas, par-
ticularly Big Sur, its more than 40 miles
between gas stationsand restrooms.
Cowboys & Indians
East of the Sierra Nevada the green, populated
West Coast ends and the brown, sagebrush-
covered West begins. This is the Old Frontier
of our imagination, a realm of real cowboys
and real Indians (and also, as we shall see, of
cinematic cowboys and Indians.)
Highway 395 hugs the states eastern
border, and the 264-mile stretch of high
desert from Reno to Lone Pine, which passes
tumbleweeds, swinging-door saloons and
ghost towns beneath the breathtakingly
sheer eastern wall of the Sierra Nevada, is
one of Californias most iconic drives.
HEARST CASTLE, right top; Santa Cruz
Breakwater Lighthouse, a.k.a. Walton
Lighthouse, center; the San Francisco Bay
Bridge and San Francisco skyline, bottom.
The northern stretch traverses ranch-
land that was onceand sometimes still
isthe domain of Basque sheepherders,
and in the town of Gardnerville, just over
the border in Nevada, you have your choice
of excellent Basque restaurants. As you
drive south, keep an eye out for cowboys,
although these days theyre as likely to be
riding an all-terrain vehicle as a horse. Far-
ther south, as you approach Mono Lake,
youll probably encounter members of the
Washoe and Paiute tribes.
Highway 395 grazes the shore of enor-
mous Mono Lake, which is so alkaline Mark
Twain once joked he could do his laundry
merely by dragging it behind him in a boat.
In Bishop, the studio of the late photogra-
pher Galen Rowell has become a major
attraction. Stop at Manzanar, just o the
highway, for a poignant visit to the site of a
relocation camp for Americans of Japanese
heritage during World War II. In Lone Pine,
the Indian Trading Post sports autographs
on the wall from Gary Cooper, John Wayne
PICK YOUR
HIGHWAY
CA-1 The Coast
pacific-coast-highway-travel.com
US-395 Eastern Sierra
aaroads.com/California/us-395_ca
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 41
 ROAD TRIPS
MUIR WOODS NATIONAL
Monument, below; the
Golden Gate Bridge, right;
Switzer Falls Trail, Los
Angeles, opposite top; San
Diego harbor and skyline,
opposite bottom.
and other cinematic cowboys who lmed
Westerns in the nearby Alabama Hills.
A few tips: Springtime, when the Sierra
is still clad in snow, is the prettiest time for
the drive, although some side trips may be
limited. For an overnight stop, the town of
Bishop oers the largest selection of motels
and restaurants.
Day Trips
You dont have to spend days or weeks on
the highway to see the best of California.
Within easy reach of major cities are exqui-
site road trips you can do in less than a day.
42 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
San Francisco
Head north, across the Golden Gate Bridge,
to sample some of Northern Californias
most bucolic scenery. Almost within sight
of San Franciscos skyscrapers youll come
to Muir Woods National Monument, a
cathedral-like preserve of old-growth red-
woods at the foot of Mount Tamalpais.
Follow Highway 1 to Point Reyes National
Seashore, where you might catch tule elk
grazing on misty hillsides above the wave-
battered coast. West Marin County, with its
organic farms, artisanal bakeries and
gourmet cheesemakers, is the breadbasket
for San Franciscos foodie culture. Stop for
lunch at the Hog Island Oyster Farm, where
you can munch on bivalve mollusks pulled
straight from Tomales Bay. The long,
narrow bay, incidentally, is a submerged
section of the notorious San Andreas Fault.
Farther north on Highway 1 youll come to
Bodega Bay, a sleepy shing village where
Alfred Hitchcock unleashed avian terror in
The Birds. The Tides restaurant, where ter-
ried townspeople took shelter, is still
there, although hardly recognizable in its
current form. A few miles inland, in the
separate town of Bodega, you can nd the
familiar schoolhouse and church from the
movie. Continue on to Sebastopol,
renowned for its juicy Gravenstein apples
and an outpost of Sonoma Countys wine
country. Turn south on Highway 101 and
head back to San Francisco, stopping for a
celebratory cocktail in Sausalito, with the
lights of the city twinkling across the bay.
Los Angeles
On a day trip along the Angeles Crest Scenic
Byway youre more likely to spot a bighorn
sheep than a Kardashian. As you wind up
and over narrow ridgetops in the San
Gabriel Mountains, above the smog, your
vistas range from the vast, chocolate-brown
Mojave Desert to Catalina Island. Also
known as State Highway 2, the 66-mile-long
Angeles Crest Scenic Byway was built 100
years ago to be the most scenic and pictur-
 esque mountain road in the state. Access it
from the suburb of La Canada Flintridge at
the western end of the San Gabriel Valley.
The popular side-trip hike to the summit of
6,164-foot Strawberry Peak reopened in
2014 after being closed since 2009 due to a
re. As you drive east on the narrow two-
lane road, keep an eye out for bears,
mountain lions and bighorn sheep.
Another side trip brings you to the Mount
Wilson Observatory, where astronomers
found the rst observational evidence for
the Big Bang theory. If youve brought along
your shing rod, try your luck in Little Rock
Creek near the Mt. Waterman Ski Resort.
Farther east, the road crosses the 2,665-
mile-long Pacic Crest National Scenic
Trail: From here you can hike south to
Mexico or north to Canada. From the roads your way north on I-15 and east to Ramona, clean, and the views so extensive, that the
end at Highway 138, head southeast to Inter- and then continue on to the ridgetop town California Institute of Technology built the
state 15, which will whisk you back to the of Julian. A beautifully preserved relic of an Palomar Observatory a few miles away. Con-
Los Angeles Basin. 1870s gold rush, Julian these days is tinue east, downhill, on Highway 78 to
renowned for apples. Youll smell the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, a 937-
KIT LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK; VAALAA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MIN CHIU/SHUTTERSTOCK; PUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK

San Diego
Cross the Palomar Mountains to soak up
the vast and colorful Anza-Borrego desert
on a daylong drive from San Diego. Make
aroma of baking pies the moment you step
out of your car. Stop for a slice, just out of
the oven, warm and gooey with a scoop of
French vanilla ice cream. The air here is so
square-mile preserve that encompasses the
eastern fth of San Diego County. If its
spring, and the winter has been wet, youll
be treated to one of the most vivid and
sweeping displays of wildowers in the
United States. If the owers arent up,
theres still plenty to see. A local landowner
commissioned artist Ricardo Arroyo Bre-
ceda to produce more than 130 giant
sculptures in the desert, everything from
life-size replicas of gomphotheres (ele-
phant-like creatures that once lived there)
to prehistoric camels and ground sloths to
scenes from California history: a Spanish
padre, a gold miner and farmworkers. One
of the latest is the undisputed highlight: an
enormous sea serpent that undulates so far
across the desert that it spans one of the
main roads. From here you can retrace your
route or take the long way home via the
Salton Sea and Palm Springs.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 43
 RAILWAY JOURNEYS
All Aboard!
Climb on for panoramic views and a blast of nostalgia
AMTRAK
Founded in 1971 to provide
intercity passenger train service
across the country, Amtrak
serves 46 of the 50 states and
three Canadian provinces on
21,000 miles (34,000 km) of track.
Passengers enjoy themselves in
the lounge car, above; the Pacific
Surfliner crosses the Gaviota
railroad trestle above Gaviota
Creek in Santa Barbara County,
above right.
44 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED
Can you hear that whistle blow? His-
toric, romantic, immortalized in legend
and song, a train journey goes beyond mere
transportationits an experience, one that
recalls the Golden Age of travel. With the
historic completion of the rst transconti-
nental rail line in 1876, travelers could
st
suddenly reach the 31 state from the East
Coast in a seemingly magical four daysa
journey that previously took many perilous
weeks, even months, to complete. Cali-
fornias fame and fortune were built on
those long lines of track, some would say,
and Californians still love their trainsnot
just for nostalgic reasons. Theres no better
way to view the states magnicently
diverse landscapes, from breathtaking
coastal blus lapped by Pacic surf to red-
wood forests, vast shimmering deserts,
alpine lakes and towering mountain peaks.
Whether you prefer to sip ne Napa
wines in a luxuriously restored Pullman
car, ride the rails Old West-style (complete
with train robbery reenactment) or take the
whole family along for a BBQ and campre
sing-along, youre sure to nd at least one
train ride that shakes your caboose.
Amtrak Adventures
The gold standard of California rail trips is
arguably Amtraks Coast Starlight. Before
crossing the border into Oregon, north-
bound passengers experience the full
spectrum of Californias greatest hits.
Whether you board at Los Angeles Union
Station or Oaklands Jack London Square,
youll pass snow-capped peaks, gorgeous
forests and shimmering shorelines. The
full trip, from Los Angeles to Seattle (or
reverse), takes 35 hours.
But accolades for the most beautiful
train trip in North America are lavished on
Amtraks California Zephyr, a 51-hour
adventure linking the Bay Area with
Chicago. The daily departure boards in
Emeryville (right across the bay from San
Francisco) and crosses two mountain
rangesthe Sierra Nevada to Reno, and the
Rockies to Denverwith unparalleled
vistas. You can also disembark at Truckee to
explore Lake Tahoe, a stress-and-trac-free
alternative to crawling over the summit in
your own vehicle. If youre drawn to a
desert crossing, Amtraks Southwest Chief
connects LA with Chicago via the Mojave.
AMTRAK; MARK WEBER
The Sunset Limited/Texas EagleAmtraks
most southern routejoins LA with New
Orleans and Chicago via Tucson, San
Antonio and Houston.
 RAILWAY JOURNEYS
THE NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN south of
Yountville, right; Indian Springs Resort &
Spa, Calistoga, opposite.

Three other popular California train

routes are operated by Amtrak, all of which
oer free Wi-Fi service. The Capital Cor-
ridor, beloved by business commuters,
runs from San Jose to Auburn (via Sacra-
mento), crossing the states agricultural
Central Valley. The much more scenic
Pacic Suriner, a six-hour run that skirts
the Pacic, joins San Luis Obispo and San
Diego (via Santa Barbara and Los Angeles).
Travelers can arrange trips to Yosemite via
the San Joaquins line to Fresno or Merced,
where a waiting bus will ferry them to the
national park. The San Joaquins trains run
between either the San Francisco Bay Area
or Sacramento and Fresno/Bakerseld.
Excursion Favorites
Until 1930, tourists visiting Mt. Tamal-
paisthe Bay Areas signature 2,574-foot
peakcould board the Mt. Tamalpais &
Muir Woods Railway: The Crookedest Rail-
road in the World. Though, sadly, that line
was dismantled, there are still plenty of
unusual steam-and-theme
available to the 21st-century traveler. These
include Mendocinos irresistible Skunk
Train. Starting at the coastal town of Fort
train schedule and popular special events,
please visit the website (see sidebar).
Departing from Woodland, the family-
run, family-friendly Sacramento RiverTrain
rolls leisurely through Yolo County on two-
to three-hour themed trips. In addition to
oering wine, beer, food and live music on
some routes, there are several specialty rides,
including Great Train Robberies, Beer Trains
and Murder Mysteries. Another option is the
Sierra Dinner Train, which runs on one of
several rail lines built in the late 19th century
to link the Gold Country with the Central
Valley. Today, the excursion provides visi-
tors an opportunity to travel on the historic
Sierra Railroad while enjoying a delicious
meal, beautiful countryside and a wide range
of entertainment. Passengers board in Oak-
dale, 90 miles east of San Francisco (70 miles
south of Sacramento). Both the Sacramento
excursions River and Sierra lines also oer Zombie Train
experiences: One part passenger train, one
part zombie killing machine. Just sayin.
Second Childhood
Speaking of super-short train rides, a peren-
nial favorite is the Redwood Valley Railway
in Tilden Park, Berkeley, which is open on
weekends year-round. The 12-minute ride
with hand-built steam locomotives pulling
open-bed atcarschugs through rustic
tunnels and around wooded curves, with
(season permitting) panoramic views of San
Francisco Bay. Tickets are $3, a ve-ride
ticket only $12, and children under two ride
free. Its a real family experienceeven dogs
are welcome!
CATCH
A TRAIN!
Amtrak
amtrak.com
Skunk Train
skunktrain.com
Napa Valley Wine Train

DREW JACKSICH/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR. OPPOSITE: CALISTOGA CVB

Bragg, the Skunk navigates some 30
bridges, trestles and tunnels on its 40-mile
journey between Fort Bragg and Willits. Fol-
lowing an old redwood lumber delivery
route, its said to be one of the Ten most
scenic train rides in North America.
Book your tickets early for the popular
Napa Valley Wine Train, with three-hour
round trips in meticulously restored rail
cars between Napa and St. Helena in Cali-
fornias wine country. Enjoy a la carte or
gourmet dining, depending on your class of
ticket. Lunch trains run daily, with winery
tours available. For their frequent dinner
Historic Revivals winetrain.com
A variety of shorter train rides lace through the
Sacramento RiverTrain
California landscape, recreating (more or less) sacramentorivertrain.com
a taste of what travel was like for settlers of the
Sierra Railroad: Oakdale
1800s. Santa Cruzs popular Roaring Camp
sierrarailroad.com
Railroad oers a Beach Train from Felton to the
Santa Cruz shore, or a steam train into the Bear Roaring Camp Railroad
roaringcamp.com
Mountain redwood forests. With several trips
daily plus a regular Moonlight Special, which Yosemite Mountain Sugar
Pine Railroad
includes a BBQ and campre sing-along, the
ymsprr.com
narrow-gauge Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine
Railroad recalls the days when logs harvested Redwood Valley Railway
redwoodvalleyrailway.com
in the Sierras were delivered to the fast-
growing settlements in the Central Valley.

46 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 SPAS & WELLNESS
Pamper Your Body, Center Your Soul
Californias celebrated spas provide the ultimate getaway
NAPA VALLEY
This celebrated region and
neighboring Sonoma Valley are
known primarily for their wine,
but their appeal runs deeper than
that. You can pamper yourself at
luxury spassuch as Meadowood
in Saint Helena, the Sonoma
Mission Inn & Spa, or Indian
Springs Resort & Spa in
Calistogadine at some of
Californias (and the USAs) best
restaurants, shop at trendy
boutiques or live a little rougher
and explore wild state parks.
In San Franciscos vibrant Japantown
district, buses and bikes whiz by, teens con-
gregate and people text as fast as they walk.
But inside the Kabuki Hot Springs, the city
vanishes. The only sounds in the dimly lit,
Japanese-style communal baths are the
gentle splashing of water and occasional
strains of soothing music. In the sauna, you
can lie back and detoxify as you treat your
eyes to chilled cucumber slices. Then hit the
steam room and exfoliate with lemon and
sea salt. Follow with a long, lazy soak in the
hot tub, and if youre brave, a cold plunge.
When youre nished, start all over again. In
fact, linger all day: it only costs $25.
For people around the world, the name
California means escape and conjures
BY LAVINIA SPALDING
images of sunny beaches. But in todays
demanding, perpetually wired world, a true
vacation requires more than just a break
from the oce; it takes unplugging, puri-
fying and restoring. Luckily, this is
practically the state motto.
California has been a resort destination
since the early 20th century, beckoning trav-
elers with its year-round warm weather,
spectacular geography and mineral springs.
The 1950s brought yoga to the state, and the
1960s ushered in a wave of young hippies
passionate about all-natural food and
intentional living. Today, California is the
nations vortex of personal health and self-
improvement, with spas and wellness
centers almost as ubiquitous as scenic
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 47
 SPAS & WELLNESS

views. From ve-star luxury resorts and

posh day spas to holistic healing programs
and hippie hot springs, the array of
retreats will dazzle even the most experi-
enced serenity seeker. Here are some of our
favorite spots for the ultimate escape.

Taking the Waters

Home to numerous large geothermal areas,
California has for centuries been a cele-
brated mineral springs destination, with
myriad spas statewide. Two hours inland

from Los Angeles, Desert Hot Springs oers

LILY A./CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; PETER COOPER/ISHOOT; KRIS WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CHARLES NADEAU/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR
dozens of options, from the glamorous,
sprawling Two Bunch Palms (featured in
the movie The Player) to cozy boutique inns
like Hacienda Hot Springs. The Central
Coast also boasts famous baths, such as
Esalen (equally known for its extensive list
of alternative-education workshops) and
Tassajara, the rst Zen monastery built out-
side of Asia. But small, funky Calistoga in
the north is the states oldest spa town,
renowned not only for hot springs but also
abundant volcanic ash used for therapeutic
mud treatments.
Eight thousand years ago, the Wappo
Indians named the area Ta La Ha Lu Si,
meaning Beautiful Land or Oven Place,
SUNSET YOGA in La Jolla Cove, and today spa facilities run the gamut from
top; spa pool at Terranea Resort, luxurious to laid-back. The oldest in Calis-
above; Travertine Hot Springs, togaand likely Californiais Indian
Bridgeport, right; Sonomas
Springs, opened in 1862 by Sam Brannan,
Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary,
Freestone, opposite.
the rst Gold Rush millionaire. The 17-acre
property features a recently remodelled
Olympic-size heated mineral pool (compli-
mentary with spa treatment on weekdays;
$30 extra on weekends), an adults-only
pool with dining and beverage service, plus
mud baths, steam rooms steeped with
eucalyptus, and a meditation pond.

48 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Wine Country Wellness
Californians are known to soak up a lot
more than wine in Napa Valley and
Sonoma. Residents have long enjoyed the
areas natural mineral waters, and todays
spa menus overow with treatments using
grape seeds and skins, rich in antioxidants
and polyphenols. At the Kenwood Inn and
Spa, treat yourself to an 80-minute crushed
Cabernet scrub and massage, or a heated
honey wine wrap. Add a 25-minute
vinotherapy bath to your treatment, and
youll soak in Pinot Noir bath salts or
sparkling salt and grape elixirs, while sip-
ping a glass of bubbly.
But its not all about grapes in wine
country. At Sonomas Osmosis Day Spa Sanc-
tuary, an innovative, eco-conscious day spa,
the specialty is a cedar enzyme bath. Guests
immerse themselves to the chin in warm,
nely ground cedar, rice bran and plant
enzymes. Heated by natural fermentation,
the treatment is said to aid digestion,
improve circulation and relieve muscle pain.
Or for rst-class pampering, lavish
accommodations and a three-star Michelin
dinner, visit the 14,000-square-foot all-
suite Meadowood Spa, and choose a curated
treatment package such as From the Earth,
which includes a hot and cold stone mas-
sage and a black walnut scrub enhanced
with custom-blended aromatherapy oils.
Located on a private, two-hundred-fty-
acre estate, Meadowood also oers golf,
tennis, croquet, hiking and swimming.
Om Sweet Om
When yoga came to America, some of the
rst studios appeared in Hollywood and
San Francisco. The practice has since
become a way of life for countless Califor-
nians, and hundreds of top-notch centers,
from ritzy to rustic, cater to beginners and
gurus alike.
One of the worlds most renowned yoga
retreats is tucked into the Santa Ynez
Mountains above Santa Barbara. At the
White Lotus Foundation Center, guests
spend their days doing sun salutations in a
canyon with ocean views, hiking through
old-growth oaks, meditating in an under-
ground Hopi-style kiva temple and
swimming in natural sandstone pools.
Massages are available, gourmet vegetarian
fare is served, and sleeping quarters are pri-
vate accommodations, heated yurts or
creekside camping under the stars.
Health First
When the sublime Golden Door opened in
FIND
Escondido in 1958, it was a pioneer among
American spas. Its since become one of the
YOUR SPA
worlds nest health resorts, regularly
hosting Hollywoods biggest stars. Golden
Kabuki Hot Springs
Door specializes in tness, Eastern philos- kabukisprings.com
ophy, relaxation and opulence. Guests
Two Bunch Palms Resort & Spa
pre-arrange completely customized four- to twobunchpalms.com
seven-day packages with tness options as
Hacienda Hot Springs
diverse as Pilates, fencing, tennis, dance, haciendahotsprings.com
cardio sculpting and archery. Best of all, each
Esalen
stay includes facial treatments, herbal wraps, esalen.org
mani-pedis and daily in-room massages.
Tassajara Hot Springs
Another great (and more aordable) sfzc.org/tassajara
option is The Oaks at Ojai, where healthy
Indian Springs
weight loss and conscious eating are indianspringscalistoga.com
emphasized, and the ever-changing list of
Meadowood
activities might include ballet dancing, meadowood.com/spa
hula hooping, Qigong, hiking and aqua
Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary
Zumba. Indulge in a seasonal sugar rub osmosis.com
(think Pixie tangerine, lavender or g),
Kenwood Inn and Spa
lemongrass lavender pedicure or hot kenwoodinn.com
Himalayan salt stone massage.
White Lotus
Ultimately, Californias spa culture whitelotus.org
promises visitors far more than relaxation;
Golden Door
it ensures that this time you wont need a goldendoor.com
vacation from your vacation. Youll return
The Oaks at Ojai
home relaxed and rechargedthat is, if you oaksspa.com
can bring yourself to return home at all.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 49
 CUISINE
Dining Out
A Golden State of haute cuisine
ALFRESCO DINING
All up and down the state dining in the
open air is popular, as it is here in Los
Angeles, above. LA is known for its wide
variety of exquisite restaurants, and its
cousin to the north, San Francisco, has
more restaurants per capita than any
other U.S. city. Old standards that have
been around for decades still hold their
own against innovative new arrivals. SFs
Mission district has become a foodie
haven and surrounding communities
from Berkeley to Palo Alto to Napa and
Sonoma all bring ne food to the table.
50 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Like everything else in California from
politics to entertainment, food is a
celebrity-driven business. From the rock
star antics of Guy Fieri to the farm-to-table
phenom that took the country by storm, the
culinary scene is a mix of where to be seen
and those unseen farmers and eld
laborers who actually do all the dirty work
necessary to put food on tables.
Kudos to garden-to-table pioneer Alice
Waters, who made growing your own green
the new black before that was even an
expression. There are now nearly one thou-
sand farmers markets and CSAs thriving
here: more than in any other state.
Sustainability is the keyword in all
things agriculture, and we can tip our hat to
the Monterey Bay Aquarium for its
impactful Seafood Watch program that
BY LAURA NESS
helps diners make informed choices at
places like Cindys Waterfront and Passion-
DISCOVER LOS ANGELES. OPPOSITE: LA.FODIE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; CHIRS HARDY
sh (Pacic Grove).
Sonoma and Marin counties have
become cheese tourism havens and apple
lovers can pick their ll in Sebastopol and
El Dorados Apple Hill.
Coastside, berry farms (Swanton) and
pumpkin patches (Aratas, Half Moon Bay)
beckon: visit Harley Farms for adorable
goats and exquisite cheese (Pescadero).
Many restaurants have on-site gardens,
including The Restaurant at Wente (Liver-
more), Chez TJ (Mountain View) and Zazu
Kitchen (The Barlow, Sebastopol).
Californias olive oil production is
booming, with Stella Cadente (Fort Bragg),
Victorine Valley Farms (Livermore) and
Olea (Paso Robles) all producing decadent
 LA PERCH, opposite; salad at Faith & Flower, LA, right;
kitchen crew working at Valette, Healdsburg, bottom.
avor-infusions. Fortunately, as the state
faces water challenges, olives are one of the
most drought-resistant crops.
Dining Among the Stars
It comes as no surprise that of the 148
Michelin stars awarded to restaurants
nationwide, a full third of them go to San
Francisco establishments. Lets take a tour
of the gourmet galaxy.
LA & Environs
Trendy dining spots include 71Above,
Animal, Erven, Faith & Flower, Georgie,
Gwen, Heres Looking at You, Kali, Lost at
Sea, Maude, Nora, Paley, The Glen, The
Guild, Trois Mec and Wolf. Michelin stars
include Asanebo, Birch, Cut, Mlisse,
Osteria Mozza, Patina, Spago, Sushi Zo,
Valentino and Water Grill.
San Diego
San Diegos food scene is currently buzzing
over Barbusa, Bracero, Campre, Carnitas
Snack Shack, Cucina Sorella, False Idol,
Herb & Wood, Madison, One Door North,
Pokirrito and Trulucks.
San Francisco Bay Area
Aglow with coveted Michelin stars, the area
boasted a record 50 honorees for 2016.
Benu, French Laundry, Meadowood, Man-
resa and Saison all have 3, while
Acquerello, Atelier Crenn, Baum,
Campton Place, Coi, Commis and Quince
each sport two. New one-star establish-
ments include All-Spice, Als Place, Aziza,
Californios, Commonwealth, Kin-Khao,
Lord Stanley, Mourad, Nico, Octavia,
Omakase, Rasa, Sushi Yoshizumi, The Lazy
Bear and Wako.
Silicon Valley
True Food Kitchen comes to Stanford,
while Andrew Welch premieres ASA in Los
Altos: he opened The Basin in Saratoga in
1999. Los Gatos gems include Nasch (Aus-
trian), Hults (Scandinavian) and Bywater
(New Orleans). In Campbell its Orchard
City Kitchen (Michelin starred Chef
Jeffrey Stout). Luxe dining divas Chez TJ,
The Plumed Horse and The Village Pub all
boast Michelin stars. Wine tasting
abounds throughout the Santa Cruz
Mountains from Summit to Sea.
Seacoast Stars
Think Mendocino for romantic and iso-
lated coastal dining stars, such as Chef
Marc Dym of Little River Inn and Chef
Nicolas Petti of Mendo Bistro. The creative
cuisine of Chef Peg Davis at Brewery Gulch
Inn makes it a gourmands delight and The
Wild Fish in Albion sets new standards for
seaside dining. The Madrones in Anderson
Valley oers centralized wine tasting,
gourmet food and posh accommodations,
and Mendocinos beautifully preserved
Joshua Grindle Inn oers rest and respite.
Carmel & Monterey
La Balenas authentic Florentine cuisine sets
a high bar, while Michelin-starred
Aubergine, Anton & Michel, Casanova,
Carmel Belle and Cultura are Carmel dar-
lings. Carmel Valleys Lucia at Bernardus
Lodge, headed by esteemed Chef Cal Sta-
menov, features his new mentor-inspired
menu, along with Caf Rustica, LOKAL,
Roux and Wills Fargo. Montereys 1833 is his-
toric chic while Fandango in Pacic Grove
oers Old World cuisine and charm.
FIND YOUR
NEXT MEAL
Mouthwatering News
chow.com
eater.com
slofoodbank.org
tastingtable.com
seriouseats.com
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 51
 WINE COUNTRY
In Praise of the Grape
No matter the season, wine tasting is always festive
CALIFORNIA
VINEYARDS
Sampling local wines is a popular
activity in the many wine growing
regions up and down the state.
California wines became famous
when a Chardonnay from Chateau
Montelena in Napa Valley won the
Judgment of Paris in 1976. It was an
event that rocked the wine world,
and the quality of California wines
has only grown since then.
52 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
There are so many wines, varieties and
regions in California that guring out
where to go and what to taste can be
daunting. Aside from taking a tour, one of
the best ways to get acquainted with an area
is by attending a local wine festival. Think
of it as Wine-Recon, a most delightful way
to gather insight and information on local
wineries in a short span of time. From
large-scale food and wine fests to small,
quirky events, wine festivals can cater to
both the casual wine fan and the experi-
enced wine enthusiast determined to
discover the next great producer.
BY MARCY GORDON
SANTA BARBARA CVB. OPPOSITE: LAMBERT BRIDGE; LAUREN SALAUN; NAPA VALLEY CVB; KERRICK JAMES
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST
Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Livermore,
Santa Cruz Mountains
The most famous California wine region by
far is in Northern California. Napa Valley is
known around the world for its exceptional
wines, and draws more visitors than any
other area. The quintessential wine country
experience was perfected here, with more
than 300 wineries vying for your taste buds
along Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail.
While the majority of visitors go to the big-
name wineries such as Robert Mondavi,
Beringer and Sterling, those in the know are
heading for Coombsville.
 Foodies and wine lovers will want to
check out Flavor! Napa Valley, an annual
event featuring world class Napa Valley
wines alongside food prepared by the
master chefs and graduates of The Culinary
Institute of America at the Greystone
Campus in Saint Helena. the Alsace Fest in February, focusing on
Prefer something more pastoral? Wind Alsace-style white wines.
your way up Highway 128 in Mendocino In Sonoma County, Healdsburg reigns as
County to Anderson Valley for two excep- the king of the tasting rooms in California.
tional festivals, the highly regarded Healdsburg is also home to one of the most
Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Fest in May, and eclectic wine events of the yearthe uber

SANTA BARBARA WINE COUNTRY,

opposite; a Healdsburg red, top left;
Jamie Slone Wines, top right; wine-
tasting bike tour, Napa Valley, left;
Yorkville Cellars Winery, Mendocino
County, above.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 53
 WINE COUNTRY

hip 7% Solution Fest dedicated to rare, CENTRAL COAST

WINE TASTING in Saint Helena, top; grape
cluster, Solvang, above.
lesser grown grape varieties with extremely
limited production.
Visiting Northern Sonoma in January?
Winter WINEland, a self-paced winery tour,
is the toasty event of the season.
One of the oldest regions, Livermore, is
just 30 miles east of San Francisco and best
known for its Chardonnay production and
the well-established winery estates of
Wente and Concannon.
SIERRA FOOTHILLS
El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras
The mining towns of the Sierra foothills
Placerville, Amador City and Sutter
Creekused to draw prospectors in search
of gold. Now wine lovers come in search of
Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands,
Chalone, Carmel Valley, Paso Robles,
Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, Santa
Clara Valley
The Central Coast is one of the largest and
most diverse wine growing regions, and
Monterey is home to the granddaddy of
all wine festivals, the Pebble Beach Food
and Wine Classic in April, where you can
sip fine wines and enjoy small plates by
star chefs.
If you are a Pinot or Syrah fan, head for
the highlands, the Santa Lucia Highlands, an
appellation with many noteworthy wineries
such as Morgan, Mer Soleil, and Hahn.
Santa Clara Valley is one of the oldest wine
regions in California. Founded by Italian
BOB MCCLENAHAN; SOLVANG CVB

riches in liquid form, such as Grenache, San-
giovese and particularly Old-vine Zinfandel.
The main street of Murphys is lined
with Gold Rush-era buildings and more
than 20 tasting rooms equal parts rustic
and sophisticated.
immigrants in the early 1800s, this region
has now grown to approximately 23 wineries.
Looking to meet the next great wine-
maker? The Garagiste Fest in Paso Robles
will introduce you to the small guys with
bright futures. And if bubbles make you

54 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 WINE COUNTRY
happy, BubblyFest by the Sea in Pismo
Beach is one of the only festivals in the
country dedicated to sparkling wines.
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
& CENTRAL VALLEY
Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills, Santa
Ynez Valley, Los Olivos, Temecula, Lodi,
Madera, Clarksburg
The Southern California coastal region
vineyards in Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills
and Santa Ynez Valley produce primarily
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Santa
Ynez Valley became the poster child for
wine tourism when the 2004 lm Sideways
conrmed its status as a Pinot Noir hot spot
(or cool spot, as Pinot grapes dont like too
much heat). But the ghosts of Sideways
Miles and Jack are long gone and its safe to
drink Merlot again. Fall brings the annual
Celebration of Harvest with Santa Barbara
Vintners oering free wine tasting over
Columbus Day Weekend along the local
wine trails.
56 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
TESTAROSSA WINERY, Los Gatos, right;
Paso Robles red and white, bottom.
Zinfandel grows well in the Central Valley,
and Lodi Zin Fest is the most famous and
longest running festival for Zinfandel lovers.
Lodis star is on the rise, and its now recog-
nized as one of the top wine regions in the new
world, a hotbed of production growing over
100 varieties in addition to its legendary Zin.
Vineyards inland in Southern Cali-
fornias mostly hot and arid region are
gaining notice, and Temecula in particular
is generating an ardent following for its
wines and sheer determination to grow WINE
FESTIVALS
grapes in a challenging location.
San Diego usually means sun and sand,
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
but just an hour north youll nd theres
NAPA
wine too. Animal lovers will enjoy the Flavor! Napa ValleyMarch 22-26
avornapavalley.com
annual San Diego Zoo Wine and Food Fes-
tival where you can stroll the grounds and SONOMA
Winter WINElandJanuary 14-15
sip wine in the midst of the wild kingdom.
wineroad.com/events/winter_wineland
California wine festivals and events ll
MENDOCINO
the calendar all year long, like a roulette
The International Alsace Varietals
wheel of juicy prospects. Whether you plan FestivalFeb. 25-26
avwines.com/alsace-festival
ahead, or spin the big wine wheel and see
where it lands, the odds are delicious. Anderson Valley Pinot Fest
May 19-21
avwines.com/anderson-valley-pinot-
noir-festival
CENTRAL COAST
ROBERT HOLMES PHOTOGRAPHY; JAYME BURROWS/PASO ROBLES WINE COUNTRY ALLIANCE
Pebble Beach Food & Wine Classic
April 20-23
pbfw.com
BUBBLYFest by the Sea
(Pismo Beach) Oct. 7-8
bubblyfest.com
Garagiste Festival (Paso Robles)
Nov. 10-12
garagistefestival.com
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
& CENTRAL VALLEY
Zin Fest (Lodi Lake)May 12-14
zinfest.com
San Diego Zoo Wine
and FoodSept. 23
sandiegozoo.org/zoo/celebration
Santa Barbara Celebration
of Harvest Oct. 6-9
celebrationofharvest.com
 CASINOS
Deal Me In
Las Vegas isnt the only show out West
PECHANGA CASINO
The Pechanga Resort & Casino in
Temecula opened in 2002, and is still
the largest casino in California. The
resort is the biggest employer in the
Temecula Valley, a place the
Pechanga people have called home
for more than 10,000 years.
58 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
In the olden daysthe days of Frank
Sinatra and Bugsy SiegelU.S. gamblers
looking for a date with Lady Luck had one
option: Las Vegas. Nowadays, with changes
to gambling laws in many states, its a safe
bet that bettors can throw down their cash
just about anywhere. Of all the states that
now oer gambling, the best (and most
plentiful) options are in California.
The Golden State has two choices for
people looking to place bets: Native Amer-
ican casinos, and card rooms (which are
gloried bars where gambling is legal, so
long as the house doesnt win).
The Native American outposts tend to be
farther from major cities but oer nicer
digs. They have slots. They have table
BY MATT VILLANO
383116210/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: BRODIE STEPHENS PHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK; GORAN BOGICEVIC/SHUTTERSTOCK
games. They even have bingo. Many of
these wagering wonderlands are Vegas-
style resorts, complete with luxury hotels,
top-notch restaurants and indulgent spas.
A few of the properties even have their own
golf courses.
Card rooms are smaller, quieter and, in
many cases, more geared toward locals.
Games here are far less variedin most
cases, as the name suggests, only card
games are available. The upside? Gam-
bling action is usually loose (and thats a
good thing).
Weve divided Californias gambling
scene into four distinct geographical
regions. Wherever you go, bet wisely, and
remember to stay within your means.
PLACING A BET at the roulette table,
opposite; Catalina Island Harbor Casino,
right; ready to hit the jackpot, bottom.

San Francisco Bay Area & Beyond

Without question, the Bay Area is the most
exciting region of California for gambling,
with more options than any other part of the
state. It also is home to the newest major
spot to let chips y: Graton Resort & Casino.
This attraction, located in Rohnert Park,
is a hulking casino built and operated by
Station Casinos, one of the largest casino
companies in Las Vegas. Bettors cheer the
swanky gambling oor, which boasts a 20-
table poker room, more than 130 table the closest casino to Yosemite National

games, and thousands of slots. Foodies
ock to the place, toothe restaurant
lineup includes an outpost of local favorite
Boathouse Sushi, and a food-court outpost
of Tonys Neapolitan-style pizzeria. In
November 2016, Graton also opened a
200-room resort hotel and spa.
Other Native American casinos in this
region are small but superlative in other
ways. Many, including Cache Creek (Brooks),
Thunder Valley (Lincoln), Chukchansi
(Coarsegold), and Twin Pine (Middletown)
also have full-service hotels. Chukchansi is
KNOW
Park, just 27 miles from the southern
entrance near Wawona; its also just 15
miles from Bass Lake Recreation Area. Twin
THE RULES
Pine, nearly halfway between the wineries
of the northern Napa Valley and Lake Just because California has casinos
County, is said to be the nations only wine- doesnt mean games there play the
themed casino destination. Red Hawk, in same way theyd play in Las Vegas or
Placerville, oers child-care services for Atlantic City. Perhaps the biggest
tykes while mom and dad play.
differences: craps and roulette. State
Most of the other gambling options in
gaming laws expressly prohibit the
Northern California are card rooms, and
outcome of a game to be determined
many are located in the suburbs of San
by dice or a ball. While the games
Francisco and Sacramento. The two most
incorporate traditional elements
popular: San Joses Bay 101, which hosts a
number of World Poker Tour events of dice and a ball, the games

throughout the year, and Colmas Lucky themselves hinge on overturning

Chances, which doles out nearly $1 million different types of cards.

in cash prizes (not to mention lots of
seats to the annual World Series of Poker)
over the course of every year. Casino
M8trix, in San Jose, distinguishes itself with
a thumping nightclub.
SoCal and LA
Southern Californiafrom the northern
edge of the San Fernando Valley to the
Mexico border, the Pacic Ocean to I-15is
home to some of the biggest Native Amer-
ican casinos in the state, including Harrahs
For novices (or those just looking
for a good time), these differences
are minimal. For hard-core craps and
roulette players, however, they make
the games so foreign that adjusting
becomes tough. Ask the croupier to
review the rules before buying-in. If
a game seems confusing, dont
bother; there are dozens of other
options throughout the casino.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 59
 CASINOS
Resort Southern California in Valley Center;
Pala Casino Spa Resort in Pala; Barona
Resort & Casino in Lakeside; and Pechanga
Resort & Casino in Temecula. All of these
properties boast Vegas-style hotels with
eateries, shopping and spas. In 2014, after
a $160-million renovation, Harrahs opened
a new 403-room hotel tower and a pool
deck that features a lazy river and weekend
parties with live deejays.
PECHANGA CASINO, top; Morongo Casino Closer to Los Angeles, the name of the
Resort & Spa in Cabazon, above.
game is card rooms. Two facilities are worth
visiting for their grandeur alone: the Com-
60 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
merce Casino (Commerce) and the Bicycle
Club (Bell Gardens). Both venues have
expansive poker rooms and host some of
the most popular tournaments in the area.
The Desert
Package deals abound for stay-and-play
vacations at casino resorts in and around
the Coachella Valley and Palm Springs. At
Morongo Casino Resort & Spa in Cabazon,
for instance, $199 per night gets guests a
room plus a $30 casino credit and a $100
credit at one of the on-site restaurants.
Similar deals are available at the Agua
Caliente Casino Resort Spa (Rancho
Mirage). Most area casinos have their own
golf courses, but locals rave about Eagle
Falls, the course at Fantasy Springs Resort
Casino in Indio. The 18-hole course was
designed by architect Clive Clark.
Lake Tahoe
Okay, okay, so the casinos that sidle up to
Lake Tahoe are on the Nevada side of the
state line. Still, theyre close enough to
most other destinations in California that
they deserve a mention here.
Excluding those in Reno, the most acces-
sible venues are located in South Lake
Tahoe. Here, the Montbleu Resort, Casino
& Spa (formerly a Caesars property) is by far
the swankiest, with ultra-modern lounges
and a steakhouse that makes Ruths Chris
seem like McDonalds. The Hard Rock Hotel
& Casino Lake Tahoe, with 500 hotel rooms
and a 25,000-square-foot casino, opened in
PECHANGA CASINO; BYRON W.MOORE/SHUTTERSTOCK
2015 in the old Horizon Casino Resort space
located down the street.
Of course the best thing about casinos at
Lake Tahoe is that because theyre in Nevada,
they play by Nevada rules (see sidebar).
Since sports books and dice games are illegal
in the state of California, this means Tahoe
is the spot to place those kinds of bets.
Big spenders, consider yourselves warned.
And good luck.
 MUSEUMS & ART BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED

Celebrating the Human Spirit

Art, science and culture flourish on the Left Coast

NORTON SIMON
MUSEUM
The Norton Simon Museum
began as the Pasadena Art The Golden State is rich in museums, sci- 20th- and 21st-century painting, sculpture
Institute in 1922 and was ence centers and thriving arts scenes, all in and conceptual artwork.
renamed in 1975 for art collector

astonishing variety. From the San Francisco
and museum director Norton
Bay Area to San Diego, you are never far
Simon. The museum comprises a
collection of about 12,000 objects
from a world-class art collection. In addi-
that include paintings by tion, there are museums highlighting
Raphael, Rembrandt, van Gogh natural and cultural history, science and
and Degas, and a signicant technology, and many that celebrate the
collection of Indian and
diverse cultures of the states more than 39
Southeast Asian sculpture that
spans more than 2500 years.
million residents. Whether you prefer to
Above, an art student traces the ogle modern art or antiquities, space shut-
lines of a sculpture in one of the tles or steam engines, youre sure to nd at
museums galleries. least one museum to dazzle you.
The Arts
Visiting LA? Its easy to spend hours glee-
fully lost in the galleries at the Los Angeles
County Museum of Art (LACMA). The
Museum of Contemporary Art (MoCA) and
Geen Contemporary showcase the best in
NORTON SIMON ART FOUNDATION. OPPOSITE: MATT MARRIOTT/LA CVB; IWAN BAAN, COURTESY SFMOMA
The renowned Getty Museum includes
both the Getty Center, a modern architec-
tural wonder perched atop a hill in the
Brentwood district, and the Getty Villa in
Malibu, which focuses on classical Greek
and Roman art and is styled after an ancient
Roman villa. Pasadenas Norton Simon dis-
plays a spectrum of European and Modern
artists amid a serene sculpture garden. In
nearby San Marino, The Huntington fea-
tures an impressive library, art collections
and 120 acres of botanical gardens.
The Santa Barbara Museum of Art
deserves recognition for its ambitious and
imaginative exhibitions. San Diegos
Museum of Contemporary Art features a
variety of exhibits in two locations, the his-
toric Jacob building downtown and their

62 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

sparkling oceanfront La Jolla property. In
Balboa Park, the Museum of Photographic
Arts is Californias only museum dedicated
exclusively to photography, lm and video.
San Franciscos Legion of Honor, set in
Lincoln Park, holds an extraordinary per-
manent collection as well as changing
exhibitions from around the world. In
nearby Golden Gate Park, the de Young
showcases the arts of Africa, Oceania and
the New World.
The San Francisco Museum of Modern
Art (SFMOMA), which reopened its doors in
2016 after a massive expansion project, now
spans 10 dazzling oors of galleries and
45,000 square feet of free public art space.
The Oakland Museum of California
(OMCA) is dedicated to native arts, his-
tory and ecology. Family-friendly OMCA
also sponsors many events, hands-on
exhibits and activities to engage young
artists and budding naturalists. While
youre in the East Bay, check out the
Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film
LOS ANGELES ART DISTRICT, right; the
expansion of the San Francisco Museum of
Modern Art, which reopened in 2016, bottom.
Archive (BAMPFA), which reopened last
year in a roomy, light-filled new building
on Center Street.
Science
The marvelous California Science Center in
Los Angeles Exposition Park presents
ongoing exhibits on invention, space travel
and life sciences. The most amazing thing
of all? Its free!
San Franciscos California Academy of
Sciences, in Golden Gate Park, features the
impressive Steinhart Aquarium, a walk-
through rainforest with free-ranging birds
and butteries, the worlds largest all-dig-
ital planetarium and a Living Roof with
1.7 million native California plants. The
long admission lines can be daunting, but
they move fast and its worth the eort.
At Piers 15 and 17 on the Embarcadero,
the legendary Exploratorium houses more
than 650 interactive exhibitsincluding an
amazing Tinkerers Clock and the crawl-
through Tactile Dome (reservations required).
Designed for children under eight, the
Bay Area Discovery Museum in Sausalito is
a pint-sized Wonderland dedicated to pro-
moting creative thinking.
The Monterey Bay Aquarium deserves to
be included among the Wonders of the
World for its astonishing displays of sea
otters and jellies, its mesmerizing three-
story kelp forest and a staggering
million-gallon Outer Bay tank.
Culture
California is a rare and enduring alloy of
more than 50 ethnic groups. Its museums
reect the racial diversity and cultural his-
tory of this melting pot in microcosm.
What follows is but a sample; there are
many, many more to choose from.
Sacramentos California Museum fea-
tures a Hall of Fame, celebrating local
legends from John Muir to Sally Ride. In San
Francisco, the Contemporary Jewish
Museum and nearby Museum of the
African Diaspora (MoAD) provide fasci-
nating insights into two of Californias
most creative ethnic traditions. Visiting the
Asian Art Museum in Civic Center is the
next best thing to a trip along the ancient
Silk Road. The citys small but beloved Mex-
ican Museum has plans to move from Fort
Mason to Yerba Buena Gardensand enjoy
a long-overdue expansion.
In Long Beach, the Museum of Latin
American Art (MoLAA) features modern
and contemporary work by artists from the
New World.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 63
 PERFORMING ARTS
On with the Show
California celebrates every flavor of live performance
HOLLYWOOD BOWL
The Hollywood Bowl dates to 1922
and is home to the Hollywood Bowl
Orchestra and summer home for the
Los Angeles Philharmonic. Hundreds
of musical events are held every year
in this amphitheater with its
signature band shell, where a
capacity of 17,500 people can gather
beneath the famous Hollywood sign
on the hill beyond. Above, the USC
marching band performs with the
symphony and reworks.
64 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED
Performance is the lifeblood of the arts,
especially in California. From the Barbary
Coast docks to the Paramount studio lots,
drama, dance and music have always been
an indelible part of the Left Coast spirit.
The states scores of concert halls, sym-
phony orchestras, theaters, jazz clubs,
dance companies, comedy troupes,
cabarets, operas and fringe festivals lay
waste to the notion of spending a quiet
evening (or even an afternoon) at home. A
full accounting is impossible, but here are
some suggestions to consider.
Regional Theaters
San Diegos venerable La Jolla Playhouse
has seen 26 of its productions move to
Broadway, earning 35 Tony Awards. The Old
Globe Theatre presents the plays of Shake-
speare (of course), as well as works by the
likes of Arthur Miller and an annual
Christmas production penned by a late
local resident: Dr. Seuss.
Los Angeles features dozens of small the-
ater companiessuch as the Open Fist, the
Actors Co-op, the diverse Cornerstone and
the Blank Theater (which hosts the annual
Young Playwrights Festival). The citys star
attraction is the Center Theatre Group, with
everything from top-shelf classics to cut-
ting-edge solo performances on three
stages: the Mark Taper Forum, the Kirk Dou-
glas Theatre and the Ahmanson Theatre.
San Franciscos legendary American
Conservatory Theater (A.C.T), the Eureka
Theatre, the Magic Theatre, Z Space and
Aurora are just a few of the citys beloved
native companiesnot to mention the
politically charged San Francisco Mime
Troupe, now in its 59th year. For solo per-
formance, check out both Intersection for
the Arts and The Marsh, which has loca-
tions in San Francisco and Berkeley. A
terric addition to the Bay Area theater
scene is We Players, connecting people
with place through site-integrated theatre.

Across the Bay Bridge, Berkeley Reper-
tory Theatre continues its tradition of
inspired experimentation. And dont
KENT G BECKER/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; SF OPERA. OPPOSITE: JOSEPH SOHM/SHUTTERSTOCK; CHARLES ERICKSON/SHUTTERSTOCK
overlook Cal Shakesthe California
Shakespeare Companywith its gorgeous
open-air venue in the Orinda hills. Other
excellent California theaters include the
South Coast Repertory in Costa Mesa, San
Jose Repertory and the Sacramento Theater
Company. Finally, the state hosts no less
than ve cutting-edge Fringe Festivals.
Symphonies, Opera & Ballet
Frank Owen Gehry designed the Walt
Disney Concert Hall, home of the renowned
Los Angeles Philharmonic, to be one of the
most acoustically perfect performance
spaces on earth. Californias other preemi-
nent orchestra is the San Francisco
Symphony, directed by the legendary
Michael Tilson Thomas, at home in the
Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall. San
Diego, Sacramento, Oakland, Santa Cruz
and Santa Barbara all support superb
orchestras as well.
Opera still maintains a huge following in
California, with nearly thirty companies
across the state. The San Francisco Opera
and Los Angeles Opera are two of the largest
in North America, with global reputations
for set production and excellence. Kudos as
well to the renowned Long Beach Opera,
now in its fourth decade.
Ballet in the Golden State has an equally
impressive pedigree. The San Francisco
Ballet, founded in 1933, was the rst profes-
sional ballet company in the country. The
California Ballet Company in San Diego,
largest in the region, has a stellar interna-
tional reputation. The Los Angeles Ballet is
a relative newcomer to the scene, while the
reinvigorated Oakland Ballet recently
th
marked its 50 anniversary.
Jazz & Blues
Heres a quick sampler of the states best
jazz and blues clubs. Oakland is a hotbed of
jazz with Yoshis in Jack London Square,
Georeys Inner Circle and quirky Birdland.
In San Francisco, dont miss the SF Jazz
Center, and visit The Saloon and Club
Deluxe for blues. In Santa Cruz, its the
Kuumbwa Jazz Center; in Fullerton,
Steamers; the Baked Potato and Catalina in
Hollywood; Charlie Os in Van Nuys; and
The Torch Club (for blues) in Sacramento.
In LA, nd the hottest new oerings at the
Jazz Bakery.
THE SAN FRANCISCO OPERA
stages Tosca, opposite bottom;
Maria Kochetkova and Vitor Luiz
in Symphonic Dances, San
Francisco Ballet, left; Jackie
Greene performs at The Catalyst
in Santa Cruz, below.
Rock n Roll n More
From the Doors to the Dead, California has
long been Ground Zero for great live music.
In San Francisco, check out whats on at the
Fillmore, the Wareld, the Independent
and Great American Music Hall. Some of
the best venues in the East Bay include the
Fox and glorious Paramount Theater in
Oakland, as well as Berkeleys Greek The-
atreknown simply as the Greek. In
Marin County, Sweetwater Music Hall often
hosts well-known artists.
Looking to rock it in LA? Check out the
Troubadour, the Roxy and Whisky a Go Go,
an LA institution since 1964. Some other
legendary California venues include the
Catalyst in Santa Cruz, the Casbah and the
Brick (Brick by Brick) in San Diego.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 65
 ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS
Harmonious by Design
Californians have always built in tune with their environment
MISSION SAN
CARLOS BORROMO
DEL RO CARMELO
Also known as Carmel Mission, this
historic church, above, was the second
mission built in California, rst
established in Monterey in 1770 and
moved to its current location in
Carmel-by-the-Sea in 1771. It was the
headquarters of the California
missions and home of Saint Junpero
Serra until his death in 1784. His
remains are buried here. It is one of
the most authentically restored
churches of all of the California
missions, a National Historic
Landmark, and on the National
Register of Historic Places. Today it
serves as parish church, museum and
community center.
66 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY DAVID ARMSTRONG
Universitys main quad are legacies of the
colonial era (stanford.edu). The ornately and
eclectically elaborated Casa de Balboa, in San
Diegos Balboa Park, incorporates elements
of the Mission Revival style (balboapark.org).
The 1927 San Gabriel Mission Playhouse is a
direct architectural descendant of the mis-
sions (missionplayhouse.org).
Long, deep, narrow, high-ceilinged
wooden row houses populated boomtowns
like San Francisco. The Victorians were
built from the 1860s to the 1910s. In the
1970s, the modest houses were reborn as
gentried, vibrantly hued Painted Ladies.
Surviving California Victorians are espe-
Architecture in California and the lush cially numerous in San Francisco, clustered
public gardens that add grace notes to the on Alamo Square and in the Haight-Ash-
Golden State began to take shape in the late bury, Western Addition and Mission
th
18 century, when the Spanish advanced districts. Urban eye candy, they are featured
north from Mexico City to the rustic, on City Guides San Francisco Walking Tours
remote province of Alta California. (sfcityguides.org).
The California missions, 21 Roman
Catholic churches built from 1769 to 1823,
set the tone. The adobe-walled, orange-tile-
roofed churches erected by the Franciscan
friars eventually formed the heart of major
cities such as San Diego, Los Angeles and
San Francisco. The missions gardens were
strictly utilitarian, intended to produce
food. Eye-pleasing garden design blos-
somed later.
Missions to Victorians
The missions inuenced California architec-
ture and design for years to come. The
abundant open spaces, arches, tile-roofed
buildings and breezy arcades of Stanford
 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL in
Los Angeles, right; Hakone Gardens, a
traditional Japanese garden in Saratoga,
below; Victorian houses on Steiner
Street across from Alamo Square,
opposite bottom.
Arts & Crafts to Computer Contemporary
American Arts and Crafts became closely
associated with California at the turn of the
20th century. The use of natural materials
such as warm, burnished wood panels and
beams, glass and stone reected Califor-
nians deep feeling for nature. Such
buildings, exemplied by the 1908 Gamble
House in Pasadena, seemed to grow organ-
ically out of the earth. The cedar brown
RAFAEL RAMIREZ LEE/SHUTTERSTOCK; MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MTAIRA/SHUTTERSTOCK; NAEBLYS/SHUTTERSTOCK
shingle wooden homes of Berkeley, fea-
tured on Berkeley Architecture Heritage
Association walking tours, are pleasing
examples (berkeleyheritage.com).
th
The streamlined power of early 20 cen-
tury technology found mesmerizing form in
the Art Deco style of the 1920s and 1930s.
Perhaps the noblest example of functional
Art Deco in North America is the 1937
Golden Gate Bridge. With its taut suspen-
sion cables, thrusting towers and trademark
International Orange color, the Golden Gate
Bridge dramatizes the energy, ambition and
power of Art Deco (goldengatebridge.org).
The next breakthrough for architecture
came around the turn of the new millen-
nium with what could be called Computer
Contemporary style. Here, too, the Golden
State shines.
Frank Gehrys brilliantly realized 2003
Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles,
with its swooping roofs and shining
metallic skin, is a fantasia that couldnt
have been realized without sophisticated
computers or built without modern alloys
(laphil.com). The rippled gray-white surface
and horizontal windows in the 2016 tower
of the greatly expanded San Francisco
Museum of Modern Art are of a piece with
the contemporary, cutting-edge artwork
inside (sfmoma.org).
Gardens North & South
Major formal public gardens blossomed in
th
California in the early 20 century.
The splendor of Hakone Gardens, opened
in Saratoga in 1915, showed the way. Hailed
as the oldest Japanese and Asian estate
gardens in the Americas and spreading over
18 hilly acres, serene Hakone Gardens is
known for koi ponds, waterfalls and
strolling and meditative walks (hakone.com).
In 1925, Casa del Herrero (House of the
Blacksmith) opened in a decorative Spanish
Colonial Revival mansion, a style still
hugely popular in host city Santa Barbara.
The estate is celebrated for its Moorish
garden with its water fountain and hedged
outdoors rooms (casadelherrero.com).
Both Los Angeles and San Francisco host
distinguished public botanical gardens.
San Francisco debuted the Strybing
Arboretum in 1940 on 55 acres in Golden
Gate Park. Now called San Francisco Botan-
ical Garden, it is renowned for its
rhododendron dell, magnolia collection,
redwood grove and native California plants
(sfbotanicalgarden.org). The Los Angeles
County Arboretum and Botanic Garden was
opened in 1956 in aptly named Arcadia,
with a lovely waterfall, Queen Anne cottage
and garden of perennials (arboretum.org).
The Mendocino Coast Botanical Garden,
opened in 1961, shows o an inspired pro-
fusion of blooms on winding Highway 1 at
Fort Bragg. More major public gardens fol-
lowed (gardenbythesea.org).
Among them: 654-acre Filoli, nestled in
the hills of Woodside south of San Fran-
cisco. Debuting in 1975, Filoli is known for
quiet paths and ponds, a charming rose
garden, 250-year-old live oak trees and 16th-
century-style English Renaissance Garden
(filoli.org). In 1993, the former estate of
Polish opera singer Ganna Walska pre-
miered near Santa Barbara as Lotusland,
featuring fruit orchards, a succulent garden
and a buttery garden (lotusland.org).
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 67
 STATE & NATIONAL PARKS
Expect the Unexpected
Open the door to limitless adventures
DEATH VALLEY
The night sky over Death Valley,
above, is as dramatic as anyplace on
earth. One of the worlds hottest
places in summer, Death Valley also
contains the lowest point in North
America, and this is just 85 miles
from Mount Whitney, the
continental U.S.s highest point.
After wet winters, early spring
wildower blooms here are usually
spectacular.
68 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Gaze at the Milky Way under Death
Valleys inky night sky. Wade with your kids
in tide pools alive with sea stars and spiny
anemones. Challenge yourself on the
Pacic Crest Trail. Whatever your passion,
Californias 280 state parks and 32 national
parks, seashores and monumentswhose
mission is to protect the states natural and
cultural treasuresare the gateway to expe-
riences as varied as the states geography.
Yosemite & the Sierra Nevada
Yosemite National Park, with its glacier-
sculpted valley and granite peaks, is
justiably one of the worlds natural treas-
ures. Come in spring when the waterfalls
thunder to the valley oor. Come in
summer when the park is abuzz with visi-
BY BONNIE SMETTS
BEBOY/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SEAN WANDZILAK/SHUTTERSTOCK; NORA YUSUF/SHUTTERSTOCK
tors to explore by tram, bike or on foot.
Choose a gentle half-hour hike or reserve a
spot for the all-day climb of Half Dome.
Junior Ranger Walks are popular with kids.
Backpackers can enjoy the solitude of the
parks high country and expert rock
climbers have dozens of granite walls to
scale. Dont leave the park without stopping
at Glacier Point with its views of Half Dome
and Yosemite Valley or at the Mariposa
Grove of giant sequoias to marvel at its
2,700-year-old Grizzly Giant.
To see a really big treethe worlds
largest by volumehead south to Sequoia
and Kings Canyon National Parks and
marvel at the weighty General Sherman.
While still in the mountains, take a trip to
Lake Tahoe, North Americas largest alpine
 ROOSEVELT ELK graze in a eld in Prairie Creek
Redwoods State Park, Humboldt County, left; giant coast
redwood trees at Redwood National Park, Humboldt
County, below.

lake. Along the lakes west shore, D.L. Bliss,

Emerald Bay and Sugar Pine Point state
parks oer camping, hiking and white sand
beaches. Farther north at Lassen Volcanic
National Park, watch California take shape
in the roaring fumaroles, thumping mud
pots and boiling pools.

Giants in the Mist

While the Sierras are home to the heftiest
redwoods, the states fog-shrouded coastal
range from Oregon to Big Sur boasts the
loftiestseveral are taller than the Statue of
Liberty. These rare trees, once logged to
near extinction, are now protected within
Californias redwood parks.
At Humboldt Redwoods State Park,
home to the largest continuous old growth
redwood forest on earth, drive the 31-mile
Avenue of the Giants and make stops along
the way to stroll among the titans. Founders
Grove with its majestic 346-foot specimen
is always a favorite. Visit in spring to see the
pink redwood lilies and purple calypso
orchids in bloom.
Farther north and closer to the coast, the
Redwood National and State Parks is a col-
lection of four parks with miles of
unspoiled coast and hiking trails. The
tallest recorded Coast Redwood hides here,
its location kept secret to protect it. How-
ever, you can visit the remote Tall Trees
Grove if you have a day to spare and want to

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 69
 STATE & NATIONAL PARKS
nab one of the 50 daily permits. But all the
parks provide easy access to magnicent
groves as well as picnic sites, campgrounds
and trails for hikers, cyclists and horses.
Burning Sands & Delicate Wildowers
Miles from the coast, Californias deserts
are lands of extremes. Vast Death Valley
National Park holds the record for the
70 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
hottest temperature, driest climate and
lowest elevation in North America. It is also
famous for its explosion of wildowers
after winter rains. For a birds-eye
panorama, stop at Dantes View. On the
valley oor, walk the Badwater Salt Flats or
take an afternoon drive to Zabriskie Point
to snap the garishly colored badlands. Trips
to Titus Canyon and the Racetrack take you
deeper into the parks unique landscape,
but only for those with proper vehicles and
preparation. Furnace Creek Campground,
one of nine in the park, with sites for RVs,
groups and tents, provides a central loca-
tion for exploring the park. Because of
favorable weather and temperatures, fall to
spring is the parks busiest time.
The Mojave National Preserve is famous
for its singing sand dunes and seven-mil-
lion-year-old volcanic cinder cones. Joshua
NICK FOX/SHUTTERSTOCK; MARIDAV/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MIGHTYPIX/SHUTTERSTOCK; LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK
Tree National Park, a favorite with rock
climbers, mountain bikers and birders, is
home to the gangly tree that gives the park
its name. While both have spring wild-
ower displays, Anza-Borrego Desert State
Park is legendary. Its owers are usually the
rst to burst into colorcatching the parks
cactus bloom is the prize.
To the Beach
A visit to California is incomplete without
spending time on the beach, but not all of
them are the iconic white sandy kind. You
will nd black sand at Sinkyone Wilderness
State Park on the north coast. At the Men-
docino Headlands State Park, bundle up
and enjoy a beach walk with a view of the
Victorian village.
Closer to San Francisco, the sweeping arc
of Point Reyes National Seashore is home
to a dozen beaches, with drive-up Drakes
Beach and hike-in Limantour as favorites.
Make your way to park headlands in early
spring to view the gray whale migration.
Edging the entrance to San Francisco Bay,
the beaches and cli trails of the Golden
Gate National Recreation Area are the gate-
ways to urban adventures and historic
sights such as Alcatraz Island.
Continuing down the coast to Santa Cruz
and Monterey, surng spots alternate with
quiet coves that are home to sea otters and
seals. Behold the thousands of Monarch
butteries that winter at Natural Bridges
State Beach. In Carmel, whose beauty has
been long favored by plein air artists, Point
Lobos State Natural Reserve is a must-visit
for everyone. Big Surs Julia Pfeier Burns
State Park oers stunning views of the
rugged coast from its cli-side trails. Access
to Pfeier Beach, a day beach, is just south
of the Big Sur Ranger Station.
At mid coast, rocky clis nally give way
to warm water and Californias famous end-
less at beaches. Movie bus can camp at
Malibu Creek State Park where M*A*S*H
and Planet of the Apes were lmed. And
then theres Huntington Beach, a.k.a. Surf
City USA. Huntington State Beachs soft
sand, safe swimming and good surng
make it the California classic.
Rocks to Castles
California is more than its geography. Living
history programs bring the past to life in
many parks. At Railtown 1897 Historic State
Park, ride the vintage trains that often appear
in lms, television productions and com-
mercials. At Indian Grinding Rock State
Historic Park, visit a reconstructed village POINT REYES LIGHTHOUSE at Point
with a ceremonial roundhouse and presen- Reyes National Seashore, opposite top;
tations by descendants of the Miwoks. The desert owers in Anza-Borrego State Park,
opposite bottom; taking a day hike in
21 missions founded by the Spanish along El
Yosemite National Park, above; El Capitan
Camino Real, or the Kings Highway, pre- and the Merced River, Yosemite National
serve the arrival of non-natives to California. Park, above left.
Old Town San Diego State Historic Park, with
its restored plaza and adobes, captures the
period when San Diego grew from a Mexican
pueblo into an American town. And then
theres gold fever. Pan for gold at Marshall FIND
YOUR PARK
Gold Discovery State Historic Park where the
mineral was rst discovered. Visualize a
miners life at Bodie State Historic Park, an Individual State Parks
www.parks.ca.gov
intact ghost town from the era.
No place reects Californias big National Parks
nps.gov/state/CA
dreamers better than the Hearst San Simeon
State Historical Monument, a testament to Campsites & Lodging Reservations
reserveamerica.com
publisher William Randolph Hearst and recreation.gov
architect Julia Morgan. Tour the 115-room
Lighthouses
castle and imagine the presidents, pub- (many open to the public, some
lishing luminaries and Hollywood stars who offering accommodations)
nps.gov/maritime/inventories/
gathered there. Also at mid state, climbers lights/ca.htm
and birders will not be disappointed at Pin-
Wildflower Updates at
nacles, Californias newest national park. Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
Whatever kind of experience you seek, Wildflower Hotline
760-767-4684
from a city adventure to a high country Or check the parks website
trek, Californias parks have a surprise in at www.parks.ca.gov.
store for you.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 71
 GOLF
Swing Away
Diverse geography tees up a bounty of options for fairways and greens
GOLF ACROSS
THE STATE
California is one of the worlds top
golf destinations, and no matter
which region you choose, youll nd a
course to suit your game, whether its
in the mountains at Sierra Star GC at
Mammoth Lakes, above, in the Gold
Country at Greenhorn Creek GC at
Angels Camp, or Desert Willow
(Firecli GC) in Palm Desert.
72 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
With Californias diverse landscapes
including mountains, valleys, forests, coast-
line and desert, Mother Nature has provided
a canvas for fairways and greens to position
the Golden State as one of the most attrac-
tive golf destinations on the planet.
Taking advantage of these geological
assets includes a whos-who of golf course
architects, from old-school designers like
Alister MacKenzie and A.W. Tillinghast to
modern-day shapers such as Jack Nicklaus,
Robert Trent Jones, Jr., and Tom Fazio who
have crafted challenges to suit every golfers
taste and budget.
Today, there are more than 600 public
courses scattered throughout California
ranging from iconic masterpieces like
Pebble Beach Golf Links on the Pacic coast
to hidden gems such as Greenhorn Creek in
the Gold Country. Depending upon skill
BY ROBERT KAUFMAN
level and preferred environment, here are
some notable nuggets that will help unlock
a golf experience of a lifetime.
OCEAN COURSES
Pebble Beach Golf Links
Located along the storied Monterey Penin-
sula, there are few golf thrills like teeing-up
for the rst time on Pebble Beach Golf
Links, ranked No. 1 on Golf Digests
Americas 100 Greatest Public Golf
Courses (2013/14). At the Jack Neville/
Douglas Grant design (1919), golfers can feel
the presence of the games biggest legends
that have competed in the annual AT&T
Pebble Beach National Pro-Am and ve U.S.
Open Championships. Jack Nicklaus said,
ROBERT KAUFMAN
If I only had one more round to play, I
would choose to play it at Pebble Beach.
pebblebeach.com
Spyglass Hill Golf Course
Taking a page from Robert Louis Stevensons
classic novel, Treasure Island, Spyglass has
hole names such as Black Dog and Billy
Bones, hints for the unwary at this
demanding 6,960-yard layout. Designed
(1966) by Robert Trent Jones, Sr., holes 6, 8
and 16 are listed among the toughest on the
PGA Tour. Spyglass features two distinctly
dierent kinds of terrain that inuence
how the fairways look and play: the rst ve
holes roll through sandy seaside dunes
while the remaining 13 holes cut through
majestic pines with elevated greens and
strategically placed bunkers and lakes to
grab errant shots. pebblebeach.com
MOUNTAIN COURSES
Whitehawk Ranch Golf Club
Carved from the natural terrain of the Mohawk
Valley, approximately one hour north of Lake
Tahoe in the Plumas National Forest, the fair-
ways are framed with native grasses and a
profusion of wildowers. Seven meandering
streams through tall pines, cedars, rs and
quaking aspens contribute to the challenge
and beauty of the 6,955-yard, Dick Bailey-
designed course. golfwhitehawk.com
Coyote Moon Golf Course
Nestled in a serene setting at 6,800 feet above
sea level in Truckee (Lake Tahoe) among tow-
ering pines and enormous granite
outcroppings, the 7,177-yard Brad Bell design
serves up one of the best mountain golf expe-
riences in the country. With generous
fairways and not a single home to spoil the
dramatic views, this upscale daily-fee course
provides dramatic elements of risk,
including the 13th, a 200-yard par 3 that drops
80 feet from tee to green. coyotemoongolf.com
DESERT COURSES
PGA WestTPC Stadium Course
Since opening in 1986, the TPC Stadium
Course in La Quinta has been rated one of
the Top 100 Courses in the World by GOLF
Magazine. This 7,300-yard challenge
designed by Pete Dye hosts PGA Tour Q-
School Finals every other year with players
having to navigate cavernous bunkers, an
island green (known as Alcatraz) at hole #17
as well as the menacing water-lined 18th.
Named Stadium due to Dyes ingenious
plan to sculpt spectator seating into the nat-
ural terrain, one of the most memorable
events includes Lee Trevinos hole-in-one on
#17 earning him $175,000 from a carry-over
skin in the 1987 Skins Game. pgawest.com
Indian Wells Golf Resort
Only 20 minutes from Palm Springs Interna-
tional Airport, golfers have the opportunity
to play the newly transformed Players
Course (John Fought, 2007) and Celebrity
Course (Clive Clark, 2006) at a property with
the distinction of being the only 36-hole
public golf facility with both courses on
Golfweeks Best Courses You Can Play in
California. Combined with a lighted, 9-hole,
natural grass putting course and a brand new
53,000-square-foot clubhouse, this muni
golf experience in the desert is unparalleled.
indianwellsgolfresort.com
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Celebrity GC at Indian Wells Resort,
Desert Willow (Firecliff GC), Greenhorn Creek GC, Spyglass Hill GC.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 73
SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA
A place of diversity and astonishing scenic beauty

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

TOP CITIES
San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, San Jose, Napa,

T
he San Francisco Bay Area never disappoints visitors: the
Sonoma, Palo Alto, Santa Rosa, Sausalito, Healdsburg
majestic towers of the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS skyline and other cities of culture and great dining, ancient red-
San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 12 miles (19 wood groves, expansive vineyards and a coastline of rocky clis and
km) from downtown San Francisco; Oakland International
sandy beaches. Combine those with a Mediterranean climate and a
Airport (OAK), 8 miles (13 km) from downtown Oakland;
San Jose International Airport (SJC), 4 miles (6 km) from
dynamic environment of high-tech entrepreneurs and its no wonder
downtown San Jose the San Francisco Bay Area encourages a seductive, can-do way of life
that revolves around the high energy of its residents and the great out-
TOURISM WEBSITES
doors at its doorstep. The hub of the area is San Francisco, a city of
sftravel.com visitoakland.org
visitnapavalley.com santaclara.org diverse neighborhoods, world-class cuisine and a welcoming spirit of
santacruzca.org sanjose.org openness and tolerance in the most European of American cities.
smccvb.com visitmarin.org Besides the landmark bridge, other popular attractions draw millions
visitberkeley.com sonomacounty.com PUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LYNN WATSON/SHUTTERSTOCK
each year to what boosters call Everyones Favorite City at the center
sonomavalley.com healdsburg.com
of the Bay Area.
POPULATION
7.35 million North Bay: Marin, Sonoma & Napa
Across the Golden Gate to the north lies Marin County, one of the most
beautiful and auent areas of the U.S. Sausalito, Tiburon and Mill Valley
are among its many inviting towns. The mountain bike was invented
here to maneuver the twisty trails on Mount Tamalpais. On the Marin
coast, one ruggedly gorgeous beach follows another, including along
SAN spectacular Point Reyes National Seashore.
FRANCISCO Also in the North Bay, Sonoma and Napa counties are home to acres
BAY AREA
of vineyards and dozens of wineries producing some of the worlds

74 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
PIGEON POINT Lighthouse in Santa
Cruz, right; reworks light up the night
on New Years Eve in San Francisco,
opposite.
nest wines. Among the small towns
full of boutiques, shops and tasting
rooms is the Napa Valley hamlet of
Yountville, a foodie dining mecca, with
several Michelin-starred restaurants,
and the spa town of Calistoga.
South Bay: Palo Alto & Santa Cruz
In Palo Alto on the peninsula south of
San Francisco lies the bucolic campus
of Stanford University, one of the
countrys leading universities. Neigh-
boring San Mateo Countys coastline
still shows its traditional shing and
agricultural roots. Its within a short
drive of major population centers yet a
world away, with its sprawling arti-
DRIVE
TOUR
Start by crossing the Golden
Gate Bridge driving north,
stopping in SAUSALITO.
Head northwest to MOUNT
TAMALPAIS STATE PARK and
take the steep, twisting road
to the Pantoll Ranger Station
and drive the PANORAMIC
HIGHWAY for ocean, city and
mountain views. Drive to
MUIR WOODS NATIONAL
MONUMENT for a short walk
among redwoods. Head back
toward Sausalito and
Highway 101 and drive north
to the wine country town of SONOMA. Explore its shady plaza,
surrounded by shops, wine tasting rooms and historic sites. From
Sonoma, its a short drive to Californias other major wine region, Napa
Valley, and the city of NAPA.
choke elds and miles of pristine
beaches. Santa Cruz County to the south
oers visitors a wealth of attractions,
including parks and wineries in its red-
wood-covered mountain range, and
laid-back beaches where surfers polish
their technique.
MUST
SEE,
DO
SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUMS
The reopening of the expanded San Francisco
Museum of Modern Art made the city a must for
international modern art lovers. Other dont-miss
museums with major exhibits are the de Young, the
Legion of Honor, the Exploratorium and the Contem-
porary Jewish Museum.
sftravel.com
EXPLORE THE OUTDOORS Marin County is
San Franciscos backyard, with Mount Tamalpais and
the Marin coast a playground for hikers, bikers and
anyone who enjoys the outdoors. Mount Tam
affords stunning views and redwood forests while
the oceanfront towns of Stinson Beach and Bolinas
have a laid-back vibe that is part of their charm.
visitmarin.org
EAST BAY EXPLORATION The university
town of Berkeley offers much to discover, including
the UC Berkeley campus and a revitalized down-
town with the new Berkeley Art Museum and
Pacific Film Archive. The outdoors beckons at
2,000-acre Tilden Park, which has a lovely botanical
garden and steam train that children adore.
visitberkeley.com
SONOMA SOJOURN Sonoma Countys vine-
yard-covered landscape offers dozens of wine tasting
rooms, including in the Russian River appellation.
Stroll among the shops of Sebastopol, Graton and
Forestville and pick up picnic goodies for alfresco
dining while sampling the countys famous pinot noirs
and other varietals.
sonomacounty.com
SILICON VALLEY AND MORE Explore a
major Silicon Valley hub, the college town of Palo
Alto and Stanford University, before heading into
the Santa Cruz Mountains for a drive along Skyline
Boulevard and its redwood forests. Take Highway 92
to Half Moon Bay and drive Highway 1 along San
Mateo Countys spectacular rugged coast, stopping
to stroll along the beaches.
smccvb.com
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 75

INSIDERS
TIP
Dont overlook travel by water
for unforgettable sightseeing in
the San Francisco
Sail the bay by ferry to or from
SAN FRANCISCOS EMBARCADERO
and FISHERMANS WHARF to
OAKLAND, SAUSALITO or TIBURON
and enjoy remarkable city and
bridge views. Along the SAN MATEO
county coast, three-hour cruises
from HALF MOON BAY are awesome
experiences in the Pacific Ocean,
particularly during the December-
May gray whale migration.
ENJOYING AN ALFRESCO BEVERAGE
and re with friends at Pier 39, below;
Moon Festival in San Franciscos
Chinatown, the largest Chinese
community outside Asia, opposite.
76 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
East Bay: Berkeley & Oakland
On the eastern side of the bay lies the col-
lege town of Berkeley, with its history of
political idealism, University of California
academic prestige and coeehouse intellec-
tualism. Berkeley is almost synonymous
Bay Area. with Alice Waters Chez Panisse and the
movement to organic, local and seasonal
food. Berkeleys larger neighbor, Oakland, is
a culturally diverse city with vibrant neigh-
borhoods, a booming downtown and lovely
Lake Merritt, whose three-mile path draws
joggers and walkers.
City & Town
Even though it was surpassed in population
by San Jose long ago, San Francisco remains
the regions cultural hub. The city draws
more than 25 million travelers each year to
its dense 49 square miles containing its
famously steep hills, thousands of restau-
rants oering an astonishing variety of
cuisines, dierent groups of people, fasci-
nating neighborhoods, parks, Victorian-era
houses and world-class museums and cul-
tural activities.
The city is easy to explore on foot, with
the waterfront Embarcadero, Fishermans
Wharf, Chinatown and Union Square (the
largest shopping area in the western U.S.) all
within a short walk of each other. Colorful
vintage streetcars rumble down the Embar-
cadero and Market Street, connecting to
public transportation that carries visitors to
the citys many diverse neighborhoods and
to Golden Gate Park, the large greenbelt that
extends to the Pacic Ocean.
The regions other major cities are San Jose,
where revitalization has brought an urban
vibe, restaurants and museums downtown,
and Oakland, which attracts visitors with the
renovated Museum of California, bay-front
Jack London Square and a trendy dining scene.
Its college town neighbor, Berkeley, is home to
the striking new Berkeley Art Museum and
Pacic Film Archive.
The Great Outdoors
One of the worlds largest urban parksthe
Golden Gate National Recreation Area
stretches over 60 miles of Bay Area
coastline. The area encompasses beaches,
historic sites, biking and hiking trails and
vast open spaces to savor the Bay Areas
varied natural beauty. Among the highlights
are the majestic Marin Headlands and San
Franciscos Presidio and Crissy Field, a pop-
ular walking area and restored wetlands that
also draws kite boarders to the white-capped
waters at the Golden Gate.
Rolling green hillsides dotted with Cali-
fornia golden poppies make spring an
especially ideal time to explore Mount
PIER 39. OPPOSITE: MICHAEL URMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK
Tamalpais and Muir Woods in Marin County.
Point Reyes National Seashores beautiful
coastal terrain contains an abundance of
wildlife, including migrating shorebirds and
ducks, whales that are easily seen o the
coast in migration season (mid January to
mid March) and a herd of tule elk.
There also is no lack of wide-open spaces
in the East Bay, where the regional park dis-
trict includes 65 parks covering 113,000
acres in Alameda and Contra Costa coun-
ties. In the Santa Cruz mountains, amid
several vast open space preserves lies Cali-
fornias oldest state park, Big Basin
Redwoods, established in 1902.

Heritage & Culture

Early Mexican and Spanish explorers and
settlers in the Bay Area left their mark,
mostly in place names but also in historic
buildings from that era. San Franciscos Mis-
sion Dolores, established in 1776, is the
oldest building in San Francisco and the
oldest intact original Mission in California.
The patchwork design of its beamed ceilings The Bay Area is home to world-class including many from Asia: Japantown and
resembles local Native American basket museums, including the recently expanded Chinatown in San Francisco, another
weaving. Other old missions are found else- San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, the Chinatown in Oakland and Vietnamese and
where in the Bay Area: in Sonoma, San de Young Museum and California Academy Southeast Asian communities in South Bay
Rafael, Santa Clara, San Jose and Santa Cruz. of Sciences in Golden Gate Park. In Oakland, cities. Mexican and other Latin American
Vestiges of San Franciscos colorful theres the Museum of California and, in inuences can be found throughout, partic-
past, when the 1849 Gold Rush catapulted Palo Alto, the Cantor Arts Center at Stanford. ularly in San Franciscos Mission district,
it from a hamlet to a large city almost A lively art scene is found throughout the while Italian immigrants left their indelible
overnight, can still be seen in thousands region and dozens of theater, opera, sym- mark in San Franciscos North Beach and
th
of 19 -century Victorians and quaint old phony and dance companies are based here. Sonoma and Napa wine-growing areas.
quarters such as Alamo Square and Diverse cultural inuences thrive in
Jackson Square. pockets spread throughout the region, Family Fun
Spend a day at the Santa Cruz Beach Board-
walk, a century-old amusement park
SPECIAL famous for The Giant Dipper, a 1920s-era
EVENTS 2017 roller coaster.
Families also enjoy the San Mateo
CHINESE NEW YEAR PARADE Feb. 11, San Francisco chineseparade.com County coast, particularly Half Moon
CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL April 8-9, 15-16, San Francisco nccbf.org Bays mid-October festival that features
BAY TO BREAKERS May 21, San Francisco baytobreakers.com pumpkin carving and pie-eating contests.

CARNAVAL May 27-28, San Francisco carnavalsanfrancisco.org

Santa Claras Great America theme park
thrills visitors with the most water rides in
ETHNIC DANCE FESTIVAL throughout June, San Francisco worldartswest.org
Northern California.
STERN GROVE FESTIVAL Sundays, mid June-mid August, San Francisco sterngrove.org
San Franciscos Fishermans Wharf and
GAY PRIDE WEEKEND June 24-25, San Francisco sfpride.org
Pier 39 are lined with shops, restaurants,
KITE FESTIVAL July 29-30, Berkeley highlinekites.com street performers and even a colony of sea
ART FESTIVAL Sept. 2-4, Sausalito sausalitoartfestival.org lions that wows crowds. The pier also oers
HARDLY STRICTLY BLUEGRASS Oct. 6-8, San Francisco hardlystrictlybluegrass.com an antique carousel and the Aquarium of the

ART & PUMPKIN FESTIVAL Oct. 14-15, Half Moon Bay miramarevents.com Bay, with more than 20,000 marine animals.
Over in Golden Gate Park, the California
UNION SQUARE TREE LIGHTING Nov. 24, San Francisco macys.com
Academy of Sciences draws families with its
FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Nov. 24, Yountville yountville.com
penguin exhibit, a walk-through rain forest
and aquarium with a live coral reef tank.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 77
 BERKELEY
Superb dining, performing arts, and
a bastion of liberal thought
WORLD-FAMOUS as a historic center of
DINE, free speech and 1960s counter-culture,
Berkeley, on the eastern shore of San Fran-
SHOP, GOLF, cisco Bay, has morphed into a foodie
SEE A PLAY destination and unique arts and shopping
Berkeley Visitor mecca. But its still Berkeley, proudly o-
Information beat, quirky and fun to visit, especially now.
visitberkeley.com The Downtown Arts District on Addison
Street showcases the Aurora Theatre Com-
pany and the Freight & Salvage
Coeehousewhich is both a performance
SATHER TOWER marks the University
venue and folk music learning centerand
of California Berkeley, above;
the Berkeley Repertory Theatre. Berkeley Rep
Berkeley Art Museum and Pacic Film
Archive (BAMPFA), below. will host the world premiere of Indian
director Mira Nairs stage musical adaption of
her hit lm Monsoon Wedding, May 5-June 25.
Two more major venues opened down-
town in 2016: the 83,000-square-foot Berkeley
Art Museum and Pacic Film Archive
(BAMPFA), at 2155 Center Street, and the hand-
some renovated UC Theatre, a 1917
cinema-turned-music space that features a
lively and diverse mix of performers, at 2036
University Avenue just west of Shattuck
Avenue. North Berkeley along and near Shat-
tuck is the citys Gourmet Ghetto, with its
jewel in the crown, Chez Panisse, founded by
the doyenne of fresh, local, seasonal Cali-
fornia cuisine, Alice Waters. The 1966 original
Peets Coee and Tea shop is right nearby, as
are excellent food markets, the Cheese Board
cheese shop/bakery and ne restaurants such
78 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY DAVID ARMSTRONG
as the organic, artisan-minded Mission Heir-
loom eatery.
One-of-a-kind shopping abounds on
Fourth Street, north of University Avenue in
West Berkeley; standouts include Mikis
Paper, which features hand-made Japanese
stationery and wrapping paper. Also on
Fourth, chef/owner Shotaro Kamio brings
sophisticated Japanese technique and fresh
California ingredients to cuisine inspired by
his native region, Tohoku snow country.
Gorgeous brown-shingle wooden homes
and public buildings by celebrated architects
Bernard Maybeck and Julia Morganwho
adapted Arts and Crafts design to form the
Bay Region style in the early 20th century
enrich the city. Maybecks serene 1910 First
Church of Christ, Scientist, just east of Tele-
graph Avenue and south of the UC Berkeley
campus, is an architectural hymn to silence.
On campus, Cal Performances brings
international headliners to Zellerbach Hall.
You can toast the artists and debate the true
BONDROCKETIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK; IWAN BAAN
meaning of art in a plentitude of craft
microbreweries near campus and beyond.
Lets not forget cocktails; theyre original
and inspired at Tupper & Reed, located
downtown. Got golf? Certainly. You can tee
it up at the 18-hole Tilden Park Golf Course,
in the woodsy Berkeley Hills above the bay.
Specics are available from the Visitor
Information Center, 2030 Addison St.
 SAN FRANCISCO
Known for decades as everyones favorite city
CABLE CARS have been
climbing San Franciscos hills
since 1873 and are always a fan
favorite, above; looking down
Lombard Street, the
crookedest street in the world,
on Russian Hill, below.
80 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
IN JUST 49 SQUARE MILES, San Francisco
contains more scenic beauty, neighborhood
diversity, good food and range of arts and culture
than any U.S. city of its size. The landmark
Golden Gate Bridge, cable cars, Alcatraz and Fish-
ermans Wharf are synonymous with the City by
the Bay, also known for an atmosphere of toler-
ance that stretches back to the Gold Rush when
one of the largest migrations in human history
brought thousands west.
San Francisco is one of the great U.S. cities for
food and dining, with renowned chefs, a wide
variety of ethnic cuisine and restaurant-mad
locals spending more on eating out than resi-
dents of any other American city. Culture is
abundant, with world-class museums, theater,
opera, symphony and ballet, helped by a public
commitment that pre-dates the National Endow-
ment for the Arts.
An inux of start-ups and young tech
workers has led to a boom in restaurants, bars
and nightlife, especially in the vibrant Mission
district and South of Market. In 2017, the city is
th
celebrating the 50 anniversary of the Summer
of Love counterculture movement with exhibi-
tions at museums, special events and concerts
that look back at the transformative time.
Among the oerings for tourists are walking
tours of the Haight-Ashbury districtcurrently
proposed for city landmark status because of its
historical signicanceand a Summer of Love
BY LAURA DEL ROSSO
art exhibit at the de Young Museum mid April to
mid August.
San Francisco rmly retained its place among
the countrys great cultural centers with the 2016
reopening of the architecturally-striking San
Francisco Museum of Modern Art. The doubling
of the downtown museums exhibit space made
room for The Doris and Donald Fisher Collection,
considered one of the worlds nest collections
of modern art.
On the western side of San Francisco, the Pre-
sidio continues its stunning transformation
from Army base to a vast national park lled with
historic sites, museums, artwork and miles of
walking and biking trails in forests and along the
bay. In 2015, the Presidio Parkway tunnels
replaced a highway eyesore and, in 2017, acres of
new landscaped areas, walking and biking trails
and a visitor center above the parkway are sched-
ANDREY BAYDA/SHUTTERSTOCK; MARIO SAVOIA/SHUTTERSTOCK
uled to open.
Renovated vista points and other areas have
recently made visiting the Golden Gate Bridge
more enjoyable. The Round House, an Art Deco-
style circular building, gives bridge visitors a
place to stop for food and drinks before browsing
the adjacent Bridge Pavilion that provides infor-
mation and exhibits. Meanwhile, on the Bay
Bridge, the permanent installation of 25,000 LED
lights that perform in patterns created by light
artist Leo Villareal continue to dazzle.
For trip planning, see sftravel.com.
 HEALDSBURG
Sonomas quintessential wine country town
DATING FROM 1857, the centerpiece and
TASTE, BROWSE, dening feature of Healdsburg is its
DINE, EXPLORE beloved historic plaza designed by Harmon
Heald. Complete with copper-topped
Healdsburg Chamber gazebo and shaded by towering redwoods
of Commerce and and date palms, the plaza is grand in scale
Visitors Bureau
but has an intimate, accessible feel. Pos-
healdsburg.com
sibly the liveliest plaza in Sonoma wine
country, it was recently voted one of
Americas Most Beautiful Town Squares
SUNSET IN A HEALDSBURG VINEYARD,
above; Healdsburgs plaza, below. and Healdsburg was ranked among the best
small towns to visit in 2014.
The plaza plays host to numerous events
including the Antique Fair in May and the
popular Beer and Sausage Festival in Sep-
tember. The highly regarded Healdsburg
Jazz Festival held in early June takes place
in various venues and locations around the
town. Throughout the summer months, on
Tuesday evenings, the plaza transforms
into an outdoor community living room
where locals and visitors gather for a free
concert series.
From the plaza its a leisurely stroll to the
many wine tasting rooms, artisan bakeries,
coee spots, cheese shops, art galleries,
bookshops and boutiques oering
clothing, house wares and inspired one-of-
a-kind gifts. Or venture a few blocks o
82 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY MARCY GORDON
Center Street to see scores of colorful, well-
preserved historic homes, many in use as
B&Bs. Surrounded by vineyards, and
located just 70 miles north of San Francisco
o Highway 101, Healdsburg is the ideal
home base from which to explore the
world-renowned wine appellations of
Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, Dry Creek
Valley and Russian River Valley. Wine, of
course, is a main focus of the town, with
more than 35 tasting rooms and wineries
within walking distance of its center.
Dining options are plentiful, from casual
cafs to elite restaurants creating sublime
seasonal fare incorporating the bounty of
locally sourced ingredients and showcasing
regional wines. Although most famous for
its wine, Healdsburg also has a lively craft ALEXANDRA LATYPOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK; HEALDSBURG CVB
beer scene and inspired cidermaking.
Beyond the city center, the Russian River
and peaceful stands of ancient redwoods
are the focal point for hiking and canoeing,
and the mostly at back roads that wind
through the vineyard valleys make the area
a world-class bicycling destination.
Sophisticated, yet rustic, Healdsburg,
with its agrarian roots, delivers small town
charm and a wine country lifestyle thats
both laid-back and luxurious.
SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY
Center for high-tech, innovation, museums and more

PETE NIESEN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: DANIEL HARTWIG/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; ED BIERMAN/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

TOP CITIES
San Jose, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, Cupertino, Los Gatos,

S
Saratoga, Mountain View, Palo Alto, Menlo Park, Los Altos
an Jose and Silicon Valley, known worldwide for technology inno-
vation, have come of age as centers for the arts, culture and
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS attractions.
San Jose International Airport (SJC),
Downtown San Joses vibrant urban scene continues to grow with
4 miles (6 km) north of downtown San Jose
museums, galleries and robust dining and nightlife. San Jose Jazz, which
San Francisco International Airport (SFO), presents more than 100 live music events annually, is one of many dynamic
36 miles (58 km) north of downtown San Jose
cultural groups.
TOURISM WEBSITES The valley has undergone a dramatic change since the mid 20th century
sanjose.org when farms, orchards and ranches lined what was then called Santa Clara
santaclara.org
Valley, or The Valley of Hearts Delight. With the technology boom came
smccvb.com
the development of acres of oce parks and an inux of bright, young
POPULATION entrepreneursand the new name, Silicon Valley.
1.8 million
In the last decade, the vigorous economy led to a revitalization of cities
whose residents are known more for their long workdays than nights on the
town. Visitors nd pedestrian-friendly burgs, such as charming Saratoga
and Los Gatos, with Michelin-starred restaurants and chic shops. Mountain
Views Castro Street and Palo Altos University Avenue are hopping, and San
Joses downtown is lled with nightlife and attractions, including the Tech
SAN JOSE Museum, which pays homage to the valleys innovative spirit.
& SILICON
During the valleys warm eveningsand there are many, with an average
VALLEY
of 300 days a year of sunshinevisitors ll Santana Row, a chic shopping

84 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017 MUST
SEE,
SANTA CLARA WINERIES SPRING PASSPORT WEEKEND DO
March 17-18, Santa Clara County santaclarawines.com

SILICON VALLEY COMIC CON April 21-23, San Jose svcomicon.com

DOWNTOWN FARMERS MARKET Fridays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., May-Nov., San Jose pcfma.com San Jose Museums Downtown San Jose
has a wealth of cultural institutions including one
MOUNTAIN WINERY CONCERT SERIES July-Oct., Saratoga mountainwinery.com of the countrys top science and technology
museums, The Tech Museum, where some of the
CONNOISSEURS MARKETPLACE July 15-16, Menlo Park menloparkchamber.com interactive exhibits were designed by Stanford
and NASA engineers. Nearby, the San Jose
GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL July 28-30, Gilroy gilroygarlicfestival.com Museum of Art is devoted to California artists
with paintings, sculpture, photography and more.
SANTA CLARA COUNTY FAIR Aug. 3-6, San Jose thefair.org
The San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles
promotes the appreciation of textiles as art.
SAN JOSE JAZZ SUMMER FEST Aug. 11-13, San Jose summerfest.sanjosejazz.org
sanjose.org
ART AND WINE FESTIVAL Sept. 9-10, Mountain View miramarevents.com
Valley Wineries While dozens of wineries
SANTA CLARA ART AND WINE FESTIVAL Sept. 15-17, Santa Clara santaclaraca.gov and tasting rooms are in the Santa Cruz
Mountains and south of San Jose, some are
located right in the valley, including Testarossa, in
a 19th-century monastery that has access to
parklands for hiking. Three others also have
access to open space for post-tasting walks,
including Picchetti Winery in Cupertino, Cooper-
Garrod Estate Vineyards in Saratoga and Ridge
Vineyards, founded by Stanford Research Institute
engineers, in Cupertino.
santaclarawines.com
Stanford Art Stanford Universitys campus
includes the Anderson Collection, a private
modern American art collection that features
major works by Pollock, Still, Rothko and
Diebenkorn, housed in a striking 33,000-square-
foot building. Next door is the Cantor Arts Center,
which includes 24 galleries and one of the largest
collections of Rodin bronzes outside Paris.
stanford.edu
History Park Stretching over 14 acres, San
Joses History Park conveys the richness of Santa
Clara Valleys long history. The park features 27
original and re-created buildings connected by
running trolleys. Included are the Chinese-
American Museum, the Portuguese Historical
Museum and one of the first banks opened by A.P.
AERIAL VIEW of San Giannini, founder of the Bank of America, who
was born in San Jose.
Jose, opposite; Picchetti
Ranch Winery & Open
historysanjose.org
Space Preserve, Cuper- Computer History Museum Technology
tino, above; gallery at the giants call Silicon Valley home and this museum
Iris & B. Gerald Cantor explores their history and impact on society.
Center for Visual Arts at Large-scale exhibits describe the creation of self-
Stanford University, right. driving cars, and are filled with the worlds largest
collection of computing hardware, software,
ephemera and photographs.
computerhistory.org

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 85

INSIDERS
TIP
Mingle with Silicon Valleys
creative types at the FIRST
FRIDAYS ART WALK each month
(except January and July), when
downtown San Jose museums are
free and galleries stay open late
for an art crawl along South First
Street. Live music and special
performances take place at
various venues downtown,
including in SAN PEDRO SQUARE,
a bustling historic food hall with
music on stage Thursdays
through Sundays. Enjoy sampling
dishes from the diverse eateries
and take a seat outdoors around
18th-century PERALTA ADOBE,
San Joses oldest building.
86 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
and dining district with a central European-
style promenade lined with boutiques,
eateries and landscaped gardens. A farmers
market, live music, cultural events, restau-
rants ranging from French bistros to
Mexican taquerias are also big draws to
Santana Row.
Palo Alto, home of Stanford University,
also features a tiny museum signicant to
Silicon Valley history: the HP Garage, the
garage where Stanford classmates Bill
Hewlett and Dave Packard founded
Hewlett-Packard in 1939.
Nestled at the foot of the mountains are
Saratoga and Los Gatos, hamlets with pic-
ture-perfect Victorian homes and
Craftsman bungalows. Vast stretches of
parks, open space preserves and rows of
vineyards and winery tasting rooms cluster
in the surrounding mountains, as well as
south of San Jose, along the Hecker Pass
Highway and around the city of Gilroy,
which is home to an annual Garlic Festival
that draws thousands.
With its Mediterranean climate and loca-
tion 50 miles south of San Francisco and 30
miles inland from the Pacic Ocean, its no
wonder that Silicon Valley developed as a
world center for innovation, drawing some
of the best and brightest engineers in the
world to a quiet valley where once only fruit
trees blossomed.
City & Town
San Jose, the county seat of Santa Clara
County, was founded in 1777 and today is
the largest city in Northern California and
tenth largest in the nation. Downtown has
undergone signicant revitalization over
MTAIRA/SHUTTERSTOCK; MATTHEW CORLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: FARUK ATES/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; ARUN123/SHUTTERSTOCK
the last decade, with historic buildings
such as the California Theatre on the same
block where dozens of software companies
have relocated. In 2014, the adjacent city of
Santa Clara welcomed the opening of Levis
Stadium, home to the San Francisco 49ers
NFL team and Super Bowl 50 venue in 2016.
Heritage and Culture
San Jose oers a big-city cultural scene with
rst-rate museums that include the Tech
Museum, where visitors discover what
made Silicon Valley successful, the Chil-
drens Discovery Museum, the San Jose
Museum of Art and the West Coasts largest
collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts at
the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum and
Planetarium. About 10 percent of San Joses
population is Vietnamese, and this ethnic
group has a strong presence particularly in
restaurants along Story Road and at the
Museum of the Boat People in charming
History Park, which also features buildings
representing Portuguese, Chinese, Italian
and other ethnic communities that were
instrumental in the citys long history.
The Great Outdoors
Wherever you are in Silicon Valley, beau-
tiful open space is not far away. In
downtown San Jose, Guadalupe River Park
is a convenient greenbelt. Nearby Alum
Rock Park oers 720 acres lled with tree-
lined walking paths.
The valleys park system continues to
grow with the latest addition, Martial
Cottle Park, which features a working
organic farm that dates from 1864 and
covers 180 acres, showcasing farming tech-
niques and tracing the valleys long
agricultural history.
Miles of roads in the Santa Cruz Moun-
tains lead to a diverse collection of county
and state parks and open space preserves in
redwood forests ideal for camping, hiking,
mountain biking or a simple picnic.
TESLA MOTORS showroom, opposite right;
downtown San Jose, opposite left; Roger
Berrys sculpture Perspective, a.k.a. The
Innite Loop, in Cupertino, top right; San
Jose Obon Festival, below.
Family Fun
For fascinating local lore, head to the Win-
chester Mystery House, the 160-room
Victorian estate built by Sara Winchester,
the heiress of Winchester Ries. The huge
house is creepy but beautiful at the same
time, with its weird Stairs to the Ceiling
that lead to nowhere, sance chambers and
ne woodwork.
Californias Great America theme park
oers the most thrill rides in Northern Cali-
fornia and includes the massive Great Barrier
Reef wave pool. Additional fun is found at 23-
acre Raging Waters in San Jose, which bills
itself as the regions largest water park. San
Joses Happy Hollow Park and Zoo and Los
Gatos Vasona Lake County Park, a lovely
oasis with a train and 1915 carousel, are two
other parks that kids love.
DRIVE
TOUR
Starting in PALO ALTO, take in
vibrant University Avenue and PALO ALTO
drive the leafy lanes of the
STANFORD CAMPUS, stopping SAN JOSE
SARATOGA
to see the mosaics in LOS
GATOS
Memorial Church and the
CASTLE ROCK
MAIN QUAD. Head west on STATE PARK
Sand Hill Road to Highway 280
south to revitalized downtown
SAN JOSE for a visit to the
striking Tech Museum of Innovation. Take Highway 17 west to LOS
GATOS, stopping to enjoy the village-like downtown and its shady
plaza, then head south on Highway 9 to the equally charming hamlet
of SARATOGA, nestled at the foot of the Santa Cruz Mountains.
Continue on Highway 9 up into the mountains to Skyline Boulevard
(Highway 35), the crest of the range. Here youll find uncrowded
wineries, pristine forests and many open space preserves and parks,
including CASTLE ROCK STATE PARK, the most spectacular. Follow
Skyline Boulevard south and rejoin Highway 17 east, which leads back
to San Jose and the heart of Silicon Valley.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 87
SANTA CLARA
Levis Stadium adds to citys theme park fun, history and high-tech
LEVIS STADIUM, home of the San
Francisco 49ers, hosted Super Bowl 50 in
2016 and many other events, including the
NHL Stadium Series, above; Californias
Great America, below.
88 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SANTA CLARA, just an hour south of San
Francisco, lies in the heart of tech capital
Silicon Valley, an area rmly focused on the
future but with a history that stretches back
to the founding of California.
With the opening of Levis Stadium in
2014, and its subsequent hosting of Super
Bowl 50 in 2016, Santa Clara is now in the
national spotlight. Not only is the 69,900-
seat stadium home to the San Francisco
49ers, but it hosts college football,
domestic and international soccer, con-
certs and other special events. Its
20,000-square-foot 49ers Museum cele-
brates the teams history in 11 galleries and
interactive exhibit spaces devoted to sports
history, Super Bowl Championships and
the Lombardi Trophies. The museum and
the stadium are open for tours and visits
year-round.
BY LAURA DEL ROSSO
Theme Park Fun, Sports,
Shopping & Festivals
Theres much more to see in Santa Clara.
Families find entertainment and thrills at
Californias only combination theme and
water park, Californias Great America,
which offers more than 100 acres of rides
and shows. The park, open late March
through October, expanded with the Planet
Snoopy play area in 2016. Rides include an
interactive ride aboard Snoopys giant
skateboard, a Peanuts 500 race-car ride
and Snoopys Space Buggies, which lifts
astronauts high in the air for a lunar
landing. New for 2017 will be Patriot, an
exciting floorless roller coaster which
position guests with their feet dangling
high above a track.
The local dining scene is booming with
four new restaurants just over a mile from
 SANTA CLARA UNIVERSITY, below; taking a tour of the Intel Museum, bottom.

Great America at Santa Clara Square:

Il Fornaio, Opa, Puesto and Flemings
Steakhouse. Elsewhere in the city, sports
fans will nd plenty to cheer outside Levis
Stadium. The city hosts major swim meets
at the George F. Haines International Swim
Center, and Santa Clara University holds
NCAA Division 1 athletic competitions
year-round.
A visit to Santa Clara wouldnt be com-
plete without a look into the innovative
high tech giants of Silicon Valley. At the Intel
Museum at corporate headquarters, visitors
see how computer chips are made in an
automated chip factory and how the valleys
engineers shaped and changed society.
Some of Silicon Valleys best shopping is
found at Santa Claras Westeld Valley Fair
mall, which is across the street from the
high-end Santana Row shopping district. valley that became known as Santa Clara Mission Church was built in 1925 after a re
Santa Clara also draws visitors to its Triton Valley and more recently, Silicon Valley, destroyed the previous 19th-century
Museum of Art with an emphasis on Bay Area was inhabited by the Ohlone when Spain building. Statues, paintings, liturgical
artists and popular events, including an began colonizing California. Franciscan objects, one bell and the avor of the
annual Art and Wine Festival in September, missionaries chose a spot in the valley in Spanish-style architecture remain.
Pacic International Quilt Festival and spine- 1777 for their eighth California mission. Also on the Santa Clara University
tingling Halloween Haunt in October, and They named it Mission Santa Clara de Asis campus is the de Saisset Art Museum,
holiday favorite WinterFest in December. after Saint Clare. whose most signicant feature is a Cali-
Visitors are welcome to visit the Mission fornia history collection. Artifacts that trace
SANTA CLARA CVB. OPPOSITE: BRANDON ZEMAN/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; SANTA CLARA CVB

Mission Santa Clara de Asis &
Santa Clara University
Santa Clara has a long history thats closely
tied with that of California. The fertile
Church and adjacent Mission Gardens on
the beautiful campus of Santa Clara Univer-
sity. Founded in 1851, the university is the
oldest college in California. The current
Santa Clara history include a cornerstone
uncovered in an archaeological excavation.
The museum also houses European art
from the Renaissance to the 19th century,
including prints by Durer and Piranesi;
modern works by Chagall, Matisse and
Picasso; and prints by San Francisco Bay
Area artists Arneson, Diebenkorn, Neri,
Thiebaud and others.
There are several other historic sites in
Santa Clara that have been transformed into
museums, including the South Bay Histor-
ical Society in an 1863 train station, the
Santa Clara Historic Museum in the
Headen-Inman House and the Harris-Lass
House Museum, an 1860s home that was
the citys last farm.
For trip planning, see santaclara.org.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 89
MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR
Where Californians go to relax

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

TOP CITIES
Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel, Pacific Grove,
Salinas, Gilroy

S
outh of the San Francisco Bay Area, the coastal region from Santa
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY Cruz through Big Sur has views that rival the rest of the state. Within
San Francisco International Airport (SFO), earshot of the crashing waves of the Pacic Ocean, this is where
62 miles (100 km) from Santa Cruz;
many Californians vacation, so its the ideal place to slow down and adopt a
101 miles (163 km) from Monterey
California-style appreciation of the great outdoors and a laid-back lifestyle.

LYNN Y/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: JEJIM/SHUTTERSTOCK; SEAN LEMA/SHUTTERSTOCK

TOURISM WEBSITES The Big Sur coastline inspired artist Francis McComas to claim that the
santacruzca.org area was the greatest meeting of land and sea, and the wild coast has
seemonterey.com
lured artists and fans of the great outdoors to enjoy its remoteness as well
carmelcalifornia.com
pacificgrove.org as its rich restaurant choicesfrom Nepenthe to the Big Sur Bakery and
cityofsalinas.org/visitors Restaurant. On the other side of the Santa Lucia Range lie the otherworldly
gilroywelcomecenter.org spires and crags of Pinnacles National Park, an extinct volcano on a long
voyage north at the edge of the San Andreas Fault. Both regions lure hikers,
POPULATION
700,000 bikers, climbers, campers and birdwatchers.
The two biggest population centers of the region are Santa Cruz and the
Monterey Peninsula. In historic Monterey, small-town Pacic Grove and
fashionable artist retreat Carmel-by-the-Sea, there are beautiful beaches,
performing and ne arts venues, outdoor pursuits, stylish shops, epi-
curean delights and an inland region known for wine and agriculture.
MONTEREY
Much of the same can be said of funky Santa Cruz, but away from the red-
BAY &
BIG SUR woods, the university town resembles a beachside playground, with its
historic boardwalk and many surf spots.

92 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 Wine lovers wont have much chance
to miss Napa and Sonoma, with a wealth
of quality vineyards in this region. From
Carmel Valley to the Monterey River
Road, there are more than enough
award-winning wines to quench an
oenophiles thirst.
With its rich and varied geography, its
a good thing that the wonders of Mon-
terey Bay and Big Sur are laid wide open
for people to appreciate them. Whether
your preference is a charming urban
escape, camping under the stars, fresh
regional cuisine, world-famous wines,
getting active outdoors or a leisurely
beachcombing strollall can be found
here, and nobodys rushing you, so you
can discover it all in your own time.
THE LONE CYPRESS
from 17-Mile Drive in
Pebble Beach, opposite;
Cannery Row in
Monterey, above;
California poppies,
the state ower, right.
City & Town
Downtown Santa Cruz lies between the
citys vibrant beach attractions and the
redwood-rich mountains, where the
University of California at Santa Cruz is
perched among groves of the huge trees.
Fishermans Wharf in Monterey is steps
from the citys historic buildings that
th th
date from the 18 and 19 centuries
before California was part of the United
States. The new Dal17 museum show-
cases the second-largest collection of
works by Salvador Dal in the United
States. Once a resident of Monterey, Dal
contributed greatly to the regions tal-
ented artist community. Made famous
by John Steinbecks eponymous novel,
Cannery Row has morphed from a
MUST
SEE,
DO
California Condors Get a close-up view of
soaring California condors from the High Peaks
trail of Pinnacles National Park.
nps.gov/pinn
Montereys Historic District Find Old
Montereys adobes and gardens from the Spanish
and Mexican eras, including the site of Californias
rst Constitutional Convention, scattered near
Fishermans Wharf.
seemonterey.com/monterey-adobes
Dead Central Get a colorful look at exhibits
from the Grateful Dead Archive, on display at the
University of California Santa Cruz McHenry Library.
library.ucsc.edu/grateful-dead-archive/about
Wild Coast Cruise Highway 1 along the majestic
Big Sur coast, where the sky touches the sea.
bigsurcalifornia.org
Historic Fun Ride two National Historic
Landmarks, the Giant Dipper and the Loo
Carousel, at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk.
beachboardwalk.com
INSIDERS
TIP
The best free dinner for your
dog is at THE FORGE IN THE
FOREST RESTAURANT in Carmel.
While you can order kibble,
burgers, steak or chicken strips
off the Dog Pound menu,
biscuits are always free and each
waiter carries a pocketful of
them for every customer with
puppy-dog eyes.
forgeintheforest.com
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 93
 ROWS OF LETTUCE in the Salinas Valley, the
salad bowl of the USA, below; a transient orca
swims through Monterey Bay, right.

shing center to a bustling street with

shops and ocean-view restaurants. Stein-
becks hometown, Salinas, is a
working-class agricultural city, known as
the Salad Bowl of the World. Carmel, a
freethinkers retreat born as an artist vil-
lage, is home to stylish shops, exquisite
dining and top-notch art.
SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017 The Great Outdoors
While well-known urban areas dot this
region, theres more than enough wide-
AT&T PEBBLE BEACH NATIONAL PRO-AM Feb. 6-12, Pebble Beach attpbgolf.com
open space for fans of the outdoors. Take a
JAZZ BASH BY THE BAY March 3-5, Monterey jazzbashmonterey.com whale watching boat tour in Monterey Bay,
where you can spot migrating gray, hump-
PEBBLE BEACH FOOD & WINE April 20-23, Pebble Beach pbfw.com
back and blue whales. Seventeen-Mile
STEINBECK FESTIVAL May 5-7, Salinas steinbeck.org Drive in Pebble Beach winds through forest
and along the Pacic coastline as it skirts
CARMEL ART FESTIVAL May 19-21, Carmel carmelartfestival.org
exclusive golf courses and resorts. South of
CARMEL BACH FESTIVAL July 15-29, Carmel bachfestival.org Carmel, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve
has long been considered the crown DAVID LITMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK; CHASE DEKKER/SHUTTERSTOCK

FEAST OF LANTERNS July 26-30, Pacic Grove feast-of-lanterns.org

jewel of the California State Park system.
GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL July 28-30, Gilroy gilroygarlicfestival.com The eerie-looking monoliths of Pinnacles
National Park beckon to rock climbers and
PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS DELEGANCE Aug. 20, Pebble Beach pebblebeachconcours.net hikers interested in the added benets of the

CAPITOLA BEGONIA FESTIVAL Sept. 1-4, Capitola begoniafestival.com explosion of colorful spring wildowers and
soaring California condors in the park.
MONTEREY JAZZ FESTIVAL Sept. 15-17, Monterey montereyjazzfestival.org In Big Sur, where rocky clis drop into the

BUTTERFLY PARADE Oct. 7, Pacic Grove seemonterey.com/regions/pacific-grove

Pacic Ocean and cypress trees twist in the
coastal wind, nature lovers can walk along
FIRST NIGHT MONTEREY Dec. 31, Monterey firstnightmonterey.org the beach or hike deep into redwood forests,
both places where waterfalls spring to life.

94 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

DRIVE
TOUR
Trace a beautiful path along the
California coast by starting on
HIGHWAY 1 and drive south, from
Santa Cruz through the
MONTEREY PENINSULA. Once you
pass CARMEL, you enter the 90-mile
stretch of California coastline
between Carmel and SAN SIMEON
called BIG SUR, shoehorned
between the ocean and the Santa
Lucia Mountains. The road twists
and turns along the wild coast, so
take your time and be sure to stop
and enjoy the view along the way.
96 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
THE KELP FOREST TANK at the Monterey
Bay Aquarium is a popular attraction, left;
getting a lift over the Santa Cruz
Boardwalk, below.
PHOTOCRITICAL/SHUTTERSTOCK; THORSON FAMILY MINNESOTA/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR. OPPOSITE: JEREMY THOMPSON/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; COLIN CREITZ/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR
Heritage & Culture
Agriculture dominates the inland region
from the Salinas salad bowl to Carmel
Valley wines. The regions coast is home to
shermen, artists, surfers and a booming
tourism industry. Whether its a chef from
Carmel, an artist from Santa Cruz or a
farmer from Soledadall take time to enjoy
the beauty of Monterey Bay and Big Sur.
Family Fun
The Monterey Peninsula is a wonderland
for families, with historic sites, accessible
beaches, Dennis the Menace Park and the
Monterey Bay Aquarium. South through Big
Sur, the variety of hiking paths can lead you
to a pink-sand beach or a seaside waterfall.
No matter your age, you cant go wrong at
the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, with rides
and entertainment for everyone. Inland,
get a look at Californias pre-statehood past
and follow the California Missions Trail
along Highway 101always a good lesson
for grade-schoolers and adults alike.
 GILROY
Gardens, grapes and garlic
GARLIC, GOLF,
WINE, FUN!
Gilroy Visitor
Information
gilroywelcomecenter.org
FAMILY DAY at Gilroy Gardens, top;
garlic harvesting contestant at the
Gilroy Garlic Festival, below.
THIS SANTA CLARA COUNTY CITY is
well known as the Garlic Capital of the
World, but the annual festival that celebrates
the pungent plant is only one of Gilroys
many attractions. With miles of trails,
amusement parks full of gardens and agri-
cultural mastery, there is more than enough
in Gilroy to please everyone in the family.
French and Italian immigrants who set-
tled here during the Gold Rush recognized
the rich soils and Mediterranean climate as
an ideal new home for their European grape
varietals. The regions wineries oer tast-
ings and tours for the grape-obsessed,
especially along the Santa Clara Valley Wine
Trail, which includes more than 25 family-
owned wineries and tasting rooms.
Local restaurants often include Gilroys
beloved garlic. The dedicated garlic heads
come for the Gilroy Garlic Festival at the end
of Julya three-day celebration of food and
drink, music, arts and family entertainment.
A visit to 4,595-acre Coyote Lake/Harvey
Bear Ranch park can easily take up the
better part of a day, with local wildlife
BY JILL K. ROBINSON
exhibits, a 635-acre lake for shing and
boating, camping and boat-launch facili-
ties, and miles of hiking, bicycle and horse
trails winding through oak canyons. The
Gilroy Gardens family theme park lures
families with more than 40 fun rides,
exhibits and majestic gardens (including
the legendary circus trees).
Once just a fruit stand, Casa de Fruta is
another popular destination for travelers,
from its Casa de Choo Choo miniature loco-
motive to antique farm machinery and
freshly baked treats. Shoppers enjoy
searching for special buys at the 145
designer and name-brand stores at Gilroy
Premium Outlets.
Walk back in time near downtown
Gilroy, where more than 75 historic build-
ings allow history bus to meander at their
own pace to learn more about the region
once called Pleasant Valley and the towns
founder, John Cameron Gilroy. Favorite
stops include the City Museum (in a
building that housed the towns rst public
library) and Old City Hall.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 97
CENTRAL COAST
Endless beaches without the crowds

BY JILL K. ROBINSON
TOP CITIES
Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles, Morro Bay,
Cambria, Ventura, Lompoc, Solvang, Buellton, Pismo Beach,

Santa Maria, Camarillo, Oxnard, Port Hueneme
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY
Los Angeles International Airport (LAX),
98 miles (158 km) from Santa Barbara;
S
outhern California may get prime beach town attention, but its
Californias Central Coast region that has it all, except for the crowds
vying for each sandy square foot. The string of small beach towns
that line the coast south of Big Sur to Santa Barbara are the perfect place to

S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: N.MINTON/SHUTTERSTOCK; SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY CVB

192 miles (309 km) from San Luis Obispo
learn to chill-out like a local, get some fun and sun, escape the hustle and
TOURISM WEBSITES bustle, and sample some of the best food and wine in California.
sanluisobispocounty.com The Santa Barbara area is the Central Coasts largest population center,
santabarbaraca.com
travelpaso.com and it lures travelers with its white Spanish-style buildings, red-tiled roofs,
morrobay.org vast beaches, plenty of ne arts venues, bright boutiques, outdoor adven-
visitcambriaca.com
tures, culinary tastes and an inland region (the Santa Ynez Valley, featured
visitventuraca.com
venturacountycoast.com in the movie Sideways) known for wine and Santa Maria-style barbecue.
lompoc.com Visitors to the area can see hulking elephant seals at Piedras Blancas,
solvangusa.com
relax in the sleepy beach towns of Cayucos and Morro Bay, tour hilltop
visitbuellton.com
santamariavalley.com Hearst Castle, or nd some fun in college-town San Luis Obispo. The old-
classiccalifornia.com fashioned piers of Avila Beach and Pismo Beach are ideal spots to take a

POPULATION
tasty meal break with a view of the Pacic Ocean. Venturas Mission San
1,542,000 Buenaventura is the last of the California missions founded by Junpero
Serra. The oceanside town is also a gateway for adventures in Channel
Islands National Park, considered Californias Galpagos, with tide pools,
CENTRAL kelp forests and unique ora and fauna species.
COAST Even though the Central Coast regions main highlight is indeed, its
coast, the varied geography and moderate climate ensure that there are

98 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
plenty of treats for visitors to enjoy.
Whether your preference is digging for
clams, surng the perfect wave, strolling
Mediterranean-style village streets, sam-
pling fresh regional cuisine
world-famous wines, or lazing on the
beach and watching the changing tide, its
all right here on the Central Coastand
theres enough for everyone.
City & Town
South of Big Sur, the coastline is dotted
with a necklace of small beach towns.
Cambrias galleries and antique shops
SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017
WINTER WINE CLASSIC Jan. 21, Santa Barbara californiawinefestival.com
SANTA BARBARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Feb. 1-11, Santa Barbara sbiff.org
SAN LUIS OBISPO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL March 14-19, San Luis Obispo slofilmfest.org
perch on pine-forested hills above the
ocean. Laid-back Cayucos is an old-school
beach retreat with a surf break and shing
pier near the main drag. Morro Bays land-
and mark, an ancient volcanic peak emerging
from the ocean oor, stands at the
entrance to a beautiful estuary.
Tucked between the ocean and the Santa
Ynez Mountains, Santa Barbara is often
called the American Riviera because of its
Mediterranean climate and red-roofed
buildings. Head inland to artist enclave Ojai
to unwind and take in the pink moment
sunsetsthe color of cotton candy.
MORRO ROCK at Morro
Bay, left; Vina Robles
Vineyards & Winery,
bottom; Buttery Beach at
sunset in Santa Barbara,
opposite.
MUST
SEE,
DO
Spanish History Get a glimpse into Santa
Barbaras origins with a visit to Mission Santa
Barbara, known as Queen of the Missions.
santabarbaramission.org
Paso Robles Vineyards The fastest
growing wine region in California isnt Napa or
Sonoma. Paso Robles recently added 11 sub-AVAs
(American Viticultural Areas) to distinguish the
differences in terroir in its entire growing region.
pasowine.com
Pink Moment Look to the east for the setting
suns reflection on the bluffs of the Topatopa
Mountains in Ojai for a brilliant pink sunset.
ojaicity.org
Nitt Witt Ridge Offering a fun contrast to
the immaculately curated mansion of Hearst
Castle, Cambrias Nitt Witt Ridge is a castle-like
creation of driftwood, abalone shells and a variety
of funky treasures.
visitcambriaca.com
Volcanic Sister Walk out to the base of
Morro Rock, one of a series of volcanic plugs
known as the Nine Sisters of San Luis Obispo
County, in Morro Bay.
morrobay.org

TASTE OF SOLVANG March 15-20, Solvang solvangusa.com

PASO ROBLES WINE FESTIVAL May 18-21, Paso Robles pasowine.com/events/winefestival.php

CALIFORNIA STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL May 20-21, Oxnard strawberry-fest.org

I MADONNARI May 27-29, Santa Barbara imadonnarifestival.com

LOS OLIVOS JAZZ & OLIVE FESTIVAL June 3, Los Olivos jazzandolivefestival.org

SUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATION June 23-25, Santa Barbara solsticeparade.com

SAN BENITO COUNTY SADDLE HORSE SHOW & RODEO June 23-25, Hollister
sanbenitocountyrodeo.com

GOLETA LEMON FESTIVAL Sept. 16-17, Goleta lemonfestival.com

EPICURE.SB Oct. 1-31, Santa Barbara santabarbaraca.com

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 99
The Great Outdoors
Even though Santa Barbara and San Luis
Obispo are larger than the rest of the beach
towns, theres enough space throughout the
Central Coast region to nd ample
breathing room and sometimes, be the only
person around. Hike to the top of Bishop
Peak, the tallest of the Nine Sisters, a chain
of volcanic peaks. Take advantage of some
sweet surf spots and catch the perfect wave.
Head out from Santa Barbara on a whale
watching tour to see some of the largest
mammals in the Pacic Ocean.
On the Carrizo Plain, considered the
largest single native grassland in the state,
its possible to see surface fractures of the
San Andreas Fault, which puts man/nature
cohabitation in perspective. The Los Padres
National Forest stretches across the scenic
Coast and Transverse ranges, and oers a
wealth of opportunities for shing, hiking,
camping and bicycling. Kayak among tide
pools and kelp forests where sea otters live
in Morro Bay, or just amble along miles of
scenic beaches, stop when you want to, and
dig your toes in the sand.
Heritage & Culture
Many place names on the Central Coast
remain from Native American tribes, as
well as from Spanish and Mexican settlers.

INSIDERS
TIP
HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS flow
through Paso Robles and are
open to the public in three
locations: River Oaks Hot
Springs Spa, Franklin Hot
Springs, and in select guest
rooms at the Paso Robles Inn.

100 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 PASOLIVO TOMATOES, Paso Robles, left;
arena riding in Santa Barbara, opposite top;
Ventura harbor, opposite bottom.

though Santa Barbara is the big city in the

area, it has a relaxing vibe that would suo-
cate in a second in downtown Los Angeles.

The California missions and other well-pre-
served buildings still exist from before 1850,
when California became a state. The Central
Coasts inland region has a wealth of land
for agriculturefrom wine to olivesbut
farmers here are just as comfortable taking
a quick trip to the wide, sandy beaches
during breaks from the harvest. Even
Family Fun
The Central Coast is rich with natural
adventure for families, including plenty of
beaches and outdoor space, historic sites
and water activities. View underwater life
on a semi-submersible tour in Morro Bay.
Discover how the ocean has shaped the his-
tory of the Central Coast at the Santa
Barbara Maritime Museum. Go camping in
the Channel Islands or Los Padres National
Forest. Even picking your own berries at a
local farm is far more fun when you can
smell the ocean air and not hear the sounds
of trac.

DRIVE
TOUR

Get more than a glimpse of

the Central Coast by driving
DINA MANDE/HELLOJUICE.COM. OPPOSITE: VISIT SANTA BARBARA; KAMILO BUSTAMANTE

south of Big Sur on

Highway 1 past the small
beach towns of CAMBRIA,
MORRO BAY and PISMO
BEACH. Be sure to stop
regularly to sample local
delicacies, whether caught
from oceanside piers or
made by hand in beach-
town bakeries. The highway
cuts inland for a short jog
after San Luis Obispo, but
pops back to the beach
before approaching the
Santa Ynez Mountains and
posh SANTA BARBARA.
VENTURA
Beach gateway to North Americas Galpagos
VENTURA, WITH ITS BREATHTAKING
BIKE, PADDLE, beach setting framed on one side by
SWIM, STROLL mountains and on the other by the
Channel Islands, makes visitors feel as if
Ventura Visitors & theyve stumbled upon a bit of magic in
Convention Bureau finding this scenic spot along Californias
visitventuraca.com central coast. It makes perfect sense,
because the original name of this Cali-
fornia city, San Buenaventura, labels it as
a city of good fortune.
Start your day with your feet in the surf,
because Venturas miles of beaches that
stretch from Surfers Point to Ventura
Harbor happen to be among the citys star
attractions. Take a long walk, lounge in the
sun, or grab a board and enjoy a full aqua
immersion. The south-facing waterfront
and breaks along the beaches are essential
qualities that lure surfers from far and
wide, so you owe it to yourself to either try
it out or settle down on the sandy shore to
watch a few choice surf sessions.
Another reminder of how much the
Pacic Ocean gures into the daily life of
102 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY JILL K. ROBINSON
Ventura can be found at Ventura Harbor Vil-
JON OSUMI/SHUTTERSTOCK; VISIT VENTURA. OPPOSITE: KAMILO BUSTAMANTE; HAYDEN BERGER; STEVE HEAP/SHUTTERSTOCK
lage. Score an outdoor table overlooking the
ocean to enjoy a meal of fresh, local seafood
and wine. The harbors arcade, carousel and
ice cream shop will easily gure into a
childs dream list, and shoppers will love
scouring the shops for the perfect souvenir.
Whats Cooking Downtown
Early California history has a special place
in Venturas historic downtown cultural
district, which began as Saint Junpero
Serras nal mission settlement. Walk
through downtown to see Mission San
Buenaventura and the historic homes,
museums, antique shops and restaurants
along the palm tree-lined streets. With an
abundance of family-owned stores, cultural
arts and thriving music and foodie scenes,
the downtown area is an ideal base for vis-
itors. Take advantage of the free trolley that
runs between downtown and Ventura
Harbor Village, stopping at major attrac-
tions and hotels.
VENTURA AT DUSK, opposite top;
regatta in Ventura, opposite bottom; Topa
Topa Brewing Company, right; Ventura
pier, center right; Saint Junpero Serra
statue in front of Ventura City Hall, below.

Beer fans can easily check out whats on

tap at the many local breweries downtown.
Brewery hopping is ideal here, because a
handfulAnacapa Brewing Company, Bar-
relhouse 101, Topa Topa Brewing Company
and Ventura Coast Brewing Companyare
all within walking distance. A short drive
away is the O Market Street Trail, where you
can taste whats new at MadeWest Brewing
Company, Poseidon Brewing Company and Channel Islands Adventures
Surf Brewery. A good way to feel as if you Opportunities for adventure abound at
deserve your brews is to start the day with a Ventura Harbor Villagefrom kayak and
two-wheel adventure with Cycle California stand-up paddle board rentals in the harbor,
Coast, a grand loop of 150 scenic miles (you to whale watching trips, to boat trips to visit
dont have to do them all at once!). Channel Islands National Park and Marine
Venturas music scene counts more than Sanctuary. This string of ve islands and its
35 venues oering live music, along with surrounding waters are known as North
special events and festivals annually. Americas Galpagos and are home to an

abundance of wildlife, including whales,

dolphins, foxes and even bald eagles. Hike
along miles of trails to enjoy the spectacular
views of the islands rugged beauty, or take
advantage of the various water-based activ-
ities and snorkel, dive, surf or kayak in
island sea caves.
Channel Islands National Park is also
known as an important breeding and
resting area for a variety of seabirds. Back
on the mainland, with a varied elevation
from sea level to 8,831 feet at the summit of
Mount Pinos, the area is rich with bird life.
Up to 457 bird species have been recorded
in the county, which includes globally
important bird areas such as Mugu Lagoon
and Los Padres National Forest.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 103
 PISMO BEACH
Central Californias classic beach town
DOES YOUR IDEAL PICTURE of a Cal-
DINE, BEACH ifornia beach town come complete with a
COMB, PLAY, sandy strand, a wooden pier and surfers
out past the breakwaiting for the per-
EXPLORE! fect wave? Then youre carrying a mental
Pismo Beach postcard of Pismo Beach. It sits on Cali-
Conference & fornias Central Coast, midway between
Visitors Bureau San Francisco and Los Angeles, which
classiccalifornia.com encourages territorial Northern and
Southern California residents to love and
claim it equally.
MORNING COFFEE in Pismo Beach,
Start your visit here with a walk on the
above; dirt bike rider on the beach, below.
1,370-foot-long Pismo Beach Pier, allowing
a peek at the ocean and the beach below
and an optimal vantage point to look back
at land and view the homes, hotels, restau-
rants and shops in town. This is the perfect
beginning perch from which to plan your
local itinerary.
Wine Country and Wildlife
Pismo Beach allows visitors to divide their
time equally between the waves of the
Pacic Ocean and the winemaking regions
of Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande and Avila
Valley, located only 10 minutes outside of
town. And when youre strolling through
downtown Pismo Beach, many restaurants
include local wines on their extensive wine
104 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY JILL K. ROBINSON
lists, to be paired with fresh wine-country-
inspired cuisine.
Beaches serve as the front yard of Pismo
Beach, with sandy shoes along the Pacic
Coast available for nearly any level of
adrenaline or relaxation. Romantics enjoy
lingering on the beach to watch the Pacic
Ocean sunsets. Oshore, you can spy sea
otters, migrating whales, seals and tide pool
inhabitants throughout the day. Following
their annual migration, thousands of
monarch butteries drip from the limbs of
eucalyptus and Monterey pine trees from
late October through February.
Pismos Great Outdoors
With six state beaches, two nature pre-
serves and three state parks within a
30-minute drive of town, Pismo Beach is an
outdoor adventurers dream. Discover these
reserves on foot or by bike, while your best
options for water excursions are kayak,
surfboard and stand-up paddle board.
Sports enthusiasts can nd plenty to do
around Pismo, whether their favorite pas-
time is golf, shing, surng, kayaking,
PISMO BEACH CVB
kiteboarding or horseback riding. And once
all the activity is over, the beach is still
there, beautiful as ever.
 PASO ROBLES
Central Californias wine country
IN CALIFORNIA, THE COMBINATION
TASTE, SHOP, of rolling hills, symmetrical lines of vine-
DINE, HIKE! yards, award-winning wineries, local art,
tasty treats for foodies and adventurous out-
Paso Robles Visitor door activities doesnt always add up to the
Information
Napa Valley. Paso Robles, just a stones
travelpaso.com
throw away from the Central Coasts beaches
and iconic Hearst Castle, happens to be one
A VINEYARD near Paso Robles, on scenic of the states most laid-back wine towns.
Highway 46, above; olive harvest, below. Pasos historic town square is dotted
with shops and chef-owned restaurants.
Highway 46 is a bucolic drive with wineries
that pour in barns, cafs, underground
caves and even cattle ranches.
Wine & Olive Oil
With more than 40,000 acres of grapes and
11 sub-AVAs (American Viticultural Areas)
growing 40 varietals that can be sampled in
more than 200 tasting rooms, Paso Robles is
no slouch in the wine industry. And its here
where you just may rub elbows with family
vintners at the tasting counter, because most
of the wineries and vineyards are small bou-
tique and family-owned businesses.
Its not only about wine in Paso. Olive oil
orchards and tasting rooms help add to the
foodie draw with a variety of options to take
home as a souvenir. Three weekly farmers
markets showcase the freshest produce from
local farms. Food, beer and wine festivals
106 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY JILL K. ROBINSON
mark the calendar throughout the year, but
are especially plentiful in summer. Innova-
tive chefs create delicious meals to be
savored in Pasos restaurants, and the citys
impressive collection rivals even that of a
large city, from artisan cheese to Mexican-
style ice cream made with fresh fruit to rustic
Italian ne dining to a classic steakhouse.
Outdoor Adventures
Outdoors fans have plenty of options in
and around Paso, beyond food and drink
experiences. Cyclists can tour wine
country back roads with Paso Bike Tours,
Central Coast Trailrides takes horse lovers
along rolling hills and vineyards, golfers at
Hunter Ranch get to enjoy the vista from
the highest point in Paso Robles, and cow-
boys (and cowgirls) of all ages can journey
into the past in a stagecoach ride with RANDY ANDY/SHIUTTERSTOCK; SYDNEYMILLS/SHUTTERSTOCK
Harris Stage Lines. Lake Nacimiento is
famous for its 165 miles of unspoiled
shoreline, great water skiing and white
bass shing. The Estrella Warbirds
Museum is dedicated to the restoration
and preservation of military aircraft, vehi-
cles and memorabilia.
At the end of your day, roll on back to any
of the restaurants, cafs, wineries, or even
picnic tables to enjoy a meal and a great
bottle of local wine or beer.
 SANTA MARIA VALLEY
Eat, drink and slow down
CALIFORNIANS KNOW HOW to relax
WINE, DINE, and enjoy the best of the land, whether
MEANDER, thats food, drink or stunning views. In
Santa Maria Valley, the coastal climate, out-
RELAX! door spaces, sensational barbecue and
Santa Maria Valley luscious wine all combine to make it an
Visitor & Convention ideal destination for those looking to adopt
Bureau a few of the locals best habits.
santamariavalley.com
On the northern perimeter of Santa Bar-
bara County, the Santa Maria Valley is an
uncommon transverse valley, which means
A STROLL IN THE VINEYARD, above; that it runs west to east, counter to
Santa Maria Valleys famous barbecue, below. Californias Coastal Range. The valleys ori-
entation channels cool ocean air directly
into the valley, resulting in one of the states
longest growing seasons for vineyards.
Grapes produced here in one of the six fed-
erally recognized American Viticultural
Areas (AVAs) within Santa Barbara County
are often a little more complex, balanced
and avorful.
Sweet & Smoky Barbecue
What cuisine do you want to enjoy with
your wine? If you like barbecue, youre right
at home. In the mid 1800s, local rancheros
were known for hosting Spanish-style bar-
becues, and that tradition continues today.
Santa Maria-style barbecue is focused on
beef tri-tip combined with a simple sea-
soning of salt, pepper and garlic salt. The
108 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY JILL K. ROBINSON
meat is cooked directly over the coals of
local red oak, giving it a sweet and
smoky avor. Traditional accompaniments
include pink pinquinto beans, fresh salsa,
tossed green salad and grilled French bread
with melted butter. Try it at The Hitching
Post, Shaws Steakhouse, Jockos Steak-
house, and Far Western Tavern.
No Dress Code
A special key to relaxation: It doesnt have a
dress code. In Santa Maria Valley, you can sip
your wine or beer while wearing worn-in
jeans, and if you get a little drop on your
clothes, nobody will mind. In fact, you might
get a nod of approval for blending in so well.
Get outside and enjoy the fresh air after
(or before) your meal. Meandering roads,
beautiful scenery and tucked-away vine-
yards are features of the Foxen Canyon
Wine Trail, connecting Los Olivos and
Santa Maria Valley. Its ideal for a great
bicycle ride, or even a slow drive in a con-
vertible. Head to the beach to spy the
second-largest stretch of dunes in Cali-
fornia. Spanning 22,000 acres and 18
SANTA MARIA VALLEY CVB
miles, the Rancho Guadalupe Dunes Pre-
serve features towering 550-foot-high sand
dunes. Its also a great spot for birders, as
migrating birds along the Pacic Flyway
stop here on their journey.
VENTURA COUNTY COAST
Venture out along the sea

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

WITH THE WIDE-OPEN SPACES along the
California coast, its no wonder Califor-
WINE, DINE,
RIDE, INDULGE! nians spend a lot of time outdoors. Even if
youre not a resident, you too can surf the
Ventura County Coast swell at Point Hueneme, grab some sh
Visitor Information tacos for lunch, spend the afternoon hiking
venturacountycoast.com to the perfect sunset spot and nish the day
enjoying some local brews.
A string of four main citiesCamarillo,
Oxnard, Port Hueneme, and Ventura
located between Santa Barbara and Los
Angeles, allow for a variety of experiences
in Ventura County. Spend some quality
time in Camarillos historic Old Town, or
enjoy shopping, gallery hopping and vis-
iting indulgent spas. Oxnard is ideal for
foodies chasing great tastes and outdoors
lovers wanting access to Channel Islands
National Park. Port Hueneme blends a his-
tory-rich Naval Construction Battalion
Center with wide, sandy beaches. Ven-
turas active beach culture and artsy
downtown lure many looking for a Cali-
fornia-style getaway.
Those in search of an active way to enjoy
the region might consider cycling along the
grand loopa 150-mile route that takes
VENTURA COUNTY COAST

cyclists past beautiful beaches and

climbing along mountain roads. Dont
worry, you can do just part of it. The route
is easily broken up into segments best
enjoyed at your leisure.

110 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 FIELDS IN CAMARILLO, opposite
top; a whale breaches on the way to
the Channel Islands, opposite
bottom; California State University
Channel Islands, right; Channel
Islands Harbor, Oxnard, below.

Family Fun & Outdoor Adventures

For families, Port Hueneme Beach Park with
its fty acres of landscaped parkland (com-
plete with picnic areas and barbecue pits)
and long strip of soft white sand is espe-
cially inviting for a day of fun. Adventuring
families can take a boat from Oxnards pic-
turesque harbor to Channel Islands
National Park for kayaking, snorkeling,
birdwatching, whale watching and island
hiking. Other family focused stops include
the U.S. Navy Seabee Museum in Port
Hueneme, Camarillos Old Town, Ventura
Harbor Village, Oxnard Beach Park, Marina
Park and Camarillo Grove Park.
San Buenaventura State Beach runs for
two miles along the Ventura coast, with
sand dunes, bike trails, great swimming
and surng options, and is perfect for pic-
nics and barbecues. Hollywood Beach in
Oxnard is popular with surfers, beach vol-
leyball players and those who want to slow Oxnards multicultural inuences and exist for wine tasting, with eleven wineries
things down and enjoy the sand and sun. farming heritage make it an ideal place to in Camarillo, Oxnard and Ventura, as well
try authentic Mexican, Brazilian, Thai and as a combined wine-and-dine experience at
Fabulous Food Italian dishes. Or even just dine on seafood the award-winning Tierra Sur inside Herzog
One key to having great cuisine is having in the harborwhatever you have a craving Wine Cellars.
fresh food. Ventura County Coast is located for. Camarillo is best known for its fresh Even better, plan your visit around one of
along an agricultural greenbeltideal for farm stands, farm-to-table cuisine and deli- the regions signature events, such as Ventura
sampling fresh seafood from the Pacic cious craft beer. Grab a glass of wine with County Farm Day (Nov. 4), Oxnards annual
Ocean and locally sourced produce. Farms your fresh seafood in Port Hueneme for California Strawberry Festival (May 20-21) or
in and around Camarillo, Oxnard and Ven- optimal enjoyment. In Ventura, you can the Ventura County Fair (Aug. 2-13).
tura have free tours and u-pick fun, where start your day with tasty coee, relax Theres never only one thing to do in
you can get your own taste of whats avail- midday with local beer, and wind down at Ventura County Coast. Its fun for beach
able. Outdoor farmers markets provide sunset with inventive cocktails. lovers, wildlife fans, art appreciators, his-
great opportunities to sample fresh sea- For a foodie behind-the-scenes experi- tory bus, shoppers, wine and beer
sonal produce, artisan cheeses, gourmet ence, the Ventura Food Tour allows culinary enthusiasts and foodies. Fit in time to do it
sauces and olive oil, and to pick up plants, fans to meet local chefs, brewmasters and all, and youll nd out which combination
owers and handcrafted items. chocolate makers. Plentiful opportunities is your personal favorite.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 111
DESERTS
A year-round recreational playground

TOP CITIES B Y C H R I S TO P H E R P. B A K E R
Palm Springs, Palm Desert, La Quinta, Rancho Mirage,
Barstow, Indian Wells, Needles, Salton Sea, Mojave, Indio

W
ith its awesome landscapes and sublime winter weather, Cali-
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY fornias desert region has a unique allure. More than ve million
Palm Springs International Airport (PSP), 10 minutes
visitors annually descend on Palm Springs and environs for
from downtown Palm Springs, 44 miles (71 km) from
Anza-Borrego State Park club- and racket-swinging recreation and to sample natures raw beauty, from
lush palm oases to soothing hot mineral spas. Add a glamorous yet low-key
TOURISM WEBSITES
lifestyle thats being reinvigorated and reconceived with a youthful new Hol-
visitpalmsprings.com
lywood energy. No wonder Its hot! has new meaning for a cross-spectrum
visitgreaterpalmsprings.com
palm-desert.org of travelers thrilled by Palm Springs newfound desert-cool sensibility. After
la-quinta.org all, where else can you golf in the morning, go snowshoeing in the afternoon,
ranchomirageca.gov
and enjoy a chilled martini by the pool in the evening?

WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: JPHOTOGOLFER/SHUTTERSTOCK

barstowca.org/visitors An easy 90-minute drive from Los Angeles, Palm Springs is under-
indio.org
stood as the entire Coachella Valley, comprising eight desert resort
Anza-Borrego SP: www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=638
Death Valley NP: nps.gov/deva communities clustered at the foot of the San Jacinto Mountains. They
Joshua Tree NP: nps.gov/jotr merge into one another along Highway 111one of Californias great urban
drives. The physical setting is out of this world. Majestic mountains soar
POPULATION
on three sides, glistening with snow in the winter sunshine. Theres no
750,000
shortage of activities and attractions. The dining is fabulous. The spas are
among Californias best. And the region boasts several ritzy casinos.
Museums cater to WWII aviation bus, art fans and nature lovers keen to
experience desert ecology. El Paseo gives Beverly Hills Rodeo Drive a run
for its money in its quality and range of boutiques. Palm Springs music,
DESERTS lm and arts festivals are world-renowned, as is the citys hip trademark
mid-century architecture.

112 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
PEAKS ABOVE LA QUINTA, Coachella Valley, opposite; playing golf at
Mission Hills Country Club, Rancho Mirage, below.
SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017
PALM SPRINGS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
Jan. 2-16, Palm Springs psfilmfest.org
PGA CAREERBUILDER CHALLENGE
Jan. 19-22, La Quinta, careerbuilderchallenge.com
PALM SPRINGS MODERNISM WEEK
Feb. 16-26, modernismweek.com
RIVERSIDE COUNTY FAIR AND NATIONAL DATE FESTIVAL
Feb. 17-26, Indio datefest.org
BNP PARIBAS OPEN March 6-19, Indian Wells bnpparibasopen.com
FASHION WEEK March 18-29, Palm Desert fashionweekelpaseo.com
COACHELLA MUSIC FESTIVAL April 14-16, 21-23, Indio coachella.com
STAGECOACH COUNTRY MUSIC FESTIVAL
April 28-30, Indio stagecoachfestival.com
JOSHUA TREE MUSIC FESTIVAL
May 18-21, Oct. 6-9 Joshua Tree joshuatreemusicfestival.com
52ND ANNUAL BORREGO DAYS DESERT FESTIVAL
Oct. 20-22 Borrego Springs borregodays.com
FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS PARADE Dec. 2, Palm Springs psfestivaloflights.com
Sports and Active Adventures
You might be forgiven for thinking that a desert oers little to do and that
its just too darn hot to do it in any event. Wrong on both counts! The
region is replete with exciting recreational activities.
Theres no more quintessential image of the Palm Springs region than
an emerald greensward studded by palms and framed by boulder-strewn
mountains gloriously snowcapped in winter. In fact, the Coachella Valley
has earned the distinction of Golf Capital of the World, with more golf
courses than you can shake a 4-iron at. More than two million visitors come
annually to play golf on more than one hundred courses. Almost as many
arrive to explore the palm groves, alpine summits or spectacular desert
MUST
SEE,
DO
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Revolving through 360
degrees as it climbs more than two miles to the mountain station at
8,516 feet elevation, this tram whisks you to another world. Its a
sensational ride, perfect for escaping the heat of summer to hike
amid pine forest where the temperatures are pleasantly cool. Or
head up to the snows in winter to explore by snowshoe or on cross-
country skis. The mountain station has a gourmet restaurantgreat
for a candlelit dinner with the lights of the valley sparkling far below.
pstramway.com
Palm Springs Modern The mid 20th-century Modernist
movement imbues Palm Springs with much of its unique appeal. For
a fascinating insight into sophisticated designs, explore the city with
an expert architectural guide who can explain the inspiration for the
iconic Bank of America building, Kaufmann House and Ship of the
Desert. Perhaps youll even get to see inside the famous steel
houses, and even a home or two of the rich and famous.
palmspringsmodern.com
Windmill Tours Theres a reason thousands of wind turbines
stud the landscape north of Palm Springs and northwest of Mojave:
gale-force winds whip through the San Gregorio and Tehachapi
passes, respectively. Thick as forests, the turbines inspire a WOW!
response. Curious to find out the facts behind these giant fans with
blades half the length of a football field? Palm Springs Windmill
Tours will take you behind the scenes and give you the low-down on
four generations of technology.
windmilltours.com
Pioneertown Set amid an otherworldly landscape of boulders
and Joshua Trees in the high desert, aptly-named Pioneertown was
built in 1946 as the Hayden Movie Rancha set for Western movies.
No longer a Nowheresville, this lived-in museum has been revived
as a trendy and thriving destination by an influx of artists and movie
types. It features a real-life and lively saloon, an antique bowling
alley, a trading post and a recently renovated old Western motel
where you can huddle around firepits at night.
pioneertown-motel.com
Living Desert Wildlife abounds in the desert, but for the
most part youd never know itcritters hide by day, especially in
summer. Its easy to get close to desert flora and fauna at Living
Desert Zoo & Park, which displays animals from arid environments
around the world. Local denizens include bighorn sheep,
rattlesnakes and coyotes, while exotic fauna include camels, giraffes
and cheetahs. A new addition, the Ant Lab, gives you an insiders
view of an active desert ant nest.
livingdesert.org
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 113

COACHELLA MUSIC FESTIVAL, top;
vintage car show during Modernism
Week in Palm Springs, above; cholla
cactus sunrise, Joshua Tree National Park,
opposite top; wildowers in Anza-Borrego
Desert State Park, opposite below.
INSIDERS
TIP
You dont need wheels to get
around Palm Springs. The city
thoughtfully operates The
Buzzfour trolleys that follow a
circuit between the RIVIERA
RESORT AND SAGUARO HOTEL via
downtown and the major sites.
The courtesy shuttles run 11 a.m.-
1 a.m., perfect for night-owl par-
tying. Plus, a Buzz Perk Card
offers discounts and perks at local
businesses. new.buzzps.com
114 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
landscapes of Anza-Borrego Desert State
Park and Joshua Tree National Park, where
boulder formations prove an exciting chal-
lenge for climbers.
Fabulous winter weather spells Nirvana
for hikers, rock-climbers, cyclists and other
outdoorsy folk. Incising the slopes of the
San Jacinto Mountains, the three Indian
Canyons tempt hikers with 30 miles of trails
and picnic sites. Fed by natural springs,
stands of desert fan palms crowd the canyon
oors, providing sheltering oases for kit fox,
bighorn sheep and coyote. Ancient petro-
glyphs can be seen while hiking Andreas
Canyon and Tahquitz Canyon, with its spec-
tacular 60-foot-tall waterfall.
Cultural Connections
Culture vultures delight to nd the desert is
far from dry. The Native American Agua
Caliente occupied the Palm Springs region
long before Europeans arrived. Their proud
legacy is on show at the Agua Caliente Cul-
tural Museum in downtown Palm Springs.
History bus also delight in the Palm
Springs Air Museum, replete with World
War II-era warplanes from a P-51 Mustang to
a B-17 Flying Fortress. The monied elite that
pours into Palm Springs for the winter is a
huge patron of the arts. Hollywood star and
long-time resident Kirk Douglas was a major
donor to the Palm Springs Art Museum, one
of Californias top regional art venuesits
Plein Art, MesoAmerican and Contemporary
Glass collections are outstanding.
Down valley, more than 150 unique
works of art decorate the streets of Palm
Desert, grouped for four self-guided tours.
Colorful murals grace historic downtown
Indio, painting a big picture on the citys
past. And since 2005, visitors can explore
the vast Sunnylands Estate, in Rancho
Mirage, where billionaire Walter Annenberg
hosted President Richard Nixon after he
MIGUEL NORIEGA/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; RANDY HEINITZ/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR. OPPOSITE: SIERRALARA/SHUTTERSTOCK; SUMIKOPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK
resigned in 1974, and President Ronald
Reagan on a score of New Years Eves.
Festivals to Casinos
Palm Springs has festivals to please every
taste. The season kicks o in January with
the Palm Springs International Film Fes-
tival, when Hollywoods nest hit town. In
March, the world-class Indian Wells Tennis
Garden lls to overowing for the annual
BNP Paribas Open. And in April, be there or
be square for the Coachella Music Festival,
hosted in the warm open air of neighboring
Indio. Almost 200 performers rock half a
million attendees; unannounced surprise
performances have included Beyonc, Paul
McCartney and Gwen Stefani.
Higher culture? Palm Deserts McCallum
Theater resounds to laughter and cheers of
delight with a lineup that can range
from Itzhak Perlman and The Vienna Boys
Choir to The Nutcracker ballet and the
Peking Acrobats.
Since the valleys Cahuilla Indian terri-
tory is a sovereign nation, its exempt
from Californias state ban on gambling.
Try your hand with Lady Luck at any of
half a dozen casinos. Most have venues
that host class acts from world-title
boxing to top performers such as Kesha,
Sheena Easton, and the deserts own Barry
Manilow. And shopaholics are in for a
treat: Art galleries, haute couturiers, and
boutique stores specializing in retro mod-
ernist dcor offer a dash of retail therapy
between your spa treatments.

Natural Wonders
Brimming with the glories of nature, the
desert is a paradise for anyone who appre-
ciates stupendous landscapes. The scenery
is far more diverse than you might imagine,
ranging from below sea level to almost
11,000 feet atop Mount San Jacinto.
Abundant rains in winter carpet the
desert with wildowersnowhere more
spectacular than the springtime bloom of
Antelope Valley Poppy State Reserve, near
the town of Mojave. Snaking south through
the Coachella Valley, scenic palm-lined
Highway 111 will deliver you to Anza-Borrego
Desert State Park. Capital of desert botanica,
this 500,000-acre park is ablaze with ery
red poppies and other wildowers.
A 30-minute drive northeast from Palm
Springs, Joshua Tree National Park spans
1,240 square miles of Mojave and lower Col-
orado deserts and protects one of the most
spectacular desert regions in North
America. Popular with rock climbers, its
dramatic landscapes are made surreal by the
Joshua tree species of yucca, with strange,
arm-like branches.
From Joshua Tree, historic Route 66
unfurls past Mojave National Preserve,
rimmed by 11,000-foot mountains. Winter
months are deliciously temperate, when
tourists ock to marvel at chromatic
canyons and sun-bleached salt pans. Well-
paved roads lace the park, while dirt roads
open up a world of extreme adventure for
visitors with suitable vehicles.
Family Fun
Kids love the desert, which oers heaps of
family fun, including old ghost towns such
as Pioneertown, an old movie set where
shoot-out recreations bring old Westerns
back to life. Another favorite is the Living
Desert Zoo & Gardens, exhibiting nearly
400 species of animals, from aardvark to
zebra. With luck you might even spot
bighorn sheep in the wild on a Desert
Adventures eco-tour by Jeep. Even camels
PALM SPRINGS
DRIVE
TOUR
Start in downtown PALM SPRINGS
and follow Highway 111 southeast to
PALM DESERT, then head into the
San Jacinto Mountains along steep,
twisting Highway 74 to the
COACHELLA VALLEY VISTA POINT
for a sensational view. Retrace your
route to Highway 111 and continue
east. Turn south onto Highway 86
past date palms and vineyards and
the Salton Sea to SALTON CITY, then
head west along Highway 522
through the BORREGO BADLANDS
to the artists community of BOR-
REGO SPRINGS. Explore the
fantastical metal sculptures in GAL-
LETA MEADOWS, then lace up your
hiking boots to explore cactus-
studded ANZA-BORREGO DESERT
STATE PARK.

where the Kelso Dunes tower almost 1,000 add to the fun at Indios Riverside County
PALM
DESERT
feet above the desert oor. Theyre known Fair & National Date Festival in February.
as the singing dunes because they emit a In summer, beat the heat splashing about COACHELLA VALLEY
VISTA POINT

buzz or rumble when sand slides down the
dune-face. Nearby, 32 ancient volcanic
cones stud Cinder Cones National Natural
Landmarka gateway to the stand-out draw
of the northern Mojave: Death Valley
National Park. The highest ground temper-
ature ever recorded on earth was here, at
at Knotts Soak City. Or take to the air with
Fantasy Balloon Flights for a birds-eye view
of the Coachella Valley. Then delight the
kids, and yourself, with a ten-minute jaunt
to Alaska (at least metaphorically) aboard
the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. It ascends
BORREGO
GALLETA BADLANDS
through four life zones to the mountaintop MEADOWS

ANZA-BORREGO SALTON CITY

DESERT STATE PARK
Badwater, a sunken trough that reaches 282 station, where the air is 30 degrees cooler VISITOR CENTER
BORREGO
SPRINGS
feet below sea level. Yet Death Valley is than it is in the desert below.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 115
PALM SPRINGS
Vintage Hollywood glamour with a modern flair
PALM SPRINGS HAS LONG DEFINED
DINE, SHOP, the meaning of a relaxing oasis of glitz and
GALLERY HOP! glamour. In the 1950s and 60s, it was the
retreat of Frank Sinatra and a constellation
Visitor Information of tanned Hollywood stars who partied
visitpalmsprings.com poolside in their Mid-Century Modern
bungalows. By the 1970s, the movie stars
and moguls had moved on. Palm Springs
sank into a period of sleepy retirement. But
the city has since come full circle. Newly
fresh and compelling, this epicenter for
desert vacations again exudes laid-back
contemporary cool.
A spectacular redevelopment plan has
put a new luster on downtown Palm
Springs, including a pedestrian walkway
linking the world-class Palm Springs Art
Museum to The Strip. Add Uptown art gal-
leries and fashion stores, exciting new au
116 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
B Y C H R I S TO P H E R P. B A K E R
courant restaurants, an edgy night scene
plus super-trendy hotels that push the
Modernist design vernacular into the now.
No wonder a whole new generation of Hol-
lywood stars and millennials is ocking to
where its the swinging 1960s all over again.
In fact, Mad Men-era retro reigns in Palm
Springs. Populated by trademark vintage
motels with 21st-century accoutrements,
candy-colored furnishings and kidney-
shaped pools with DJs, this desert bolthole
is ground-zero for anyone in search of
throwback movie star glamour. Think vin-
tage Palm Springs with modern air.
Sophisticated Architecture
Any sojourn through Palm Springs is a
magical mystery tour of art-chitecture,
thanks to the citys stock of more than two
 PICNIC AT INDIAN CANYONS, opposite top; Palm Springs Art Museum,
opposite bottom; cocktail party in mid-century home, Palm Springs, right;
family hike in Indian Canyons, bottom.

thousand Mid-Century Modernist homes.
Many of the nest exemplars of Modernism
are boutique hotelsArrive, LHorizon, The
Monkey Tree and V Palm Springs, to name
a fewand almost all have played host to
the Hollywood A-list. Sinatra slept here
and This was Angelina Jolies room is no
idle chatter. By the way, many of the famous
personalities whove lived, loved and
played in Palm Springsfrom Elvis Presley
to Elizabeth Taylorare commemorated in
pink granite stars (the Walk of Stars)
embedded in downtown sidewalks.
Its population once surged in winter and
cleared out by May. No longer. Palm Springs
is now a trendy year-round destination, not
least as the weekend haven of choice for
GORD MCKENNA/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM. OPPOSITE: VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM; VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM
city. And Palm Springs sizeable gay and les-
bian population translates into an uber
LGBT-friendly and fun destination, and
never more so than during the annual Gay
Pride Festival (November) and White Party
(May). At any time of year, Hunters night-
club keeps the LGBT party alive with its
nine-hour-long happy hour!
Cultural Attractions
To satisfy cultural yearnings, start at the
Palm Springs Art Museum. Considered one
of Californias nest regional museums,
this world-class venue is notable for its
contemporary art and astounding glass art
in the Denney Western American Art Wing.
Its Mesoamerican collection includes bas-

sleek LA hipsters come to laze or party by
the pool with cocktail in hand. The Tes-
loop chaueured rideshare between Los
Angeles and Palm Springs in Tesla electric
vehicles makes it easy. But Palm Springs
travel oers far more. Snowbirds, retirees,
art lovers, spa-goers and active vacationers
ock too to this amazingly cosmopolitan
ketry, pottery and other artifacts by local
Amerindian tribes. A few blocks away,
the recently debuted Palm Springs Art
Museum Architecture & Design Center, in
a 1960s former bank building of classic
Mid-Century Modernist styling, houses the
museums growing collection of architec-
ture and design-related pieces.
Meanwhile, Palm Springs Native Amer-
ican heritage is honored at the downtown
Agua Caliente Cultural Museum, where bas-
ketry, pottery and other traditional skills
workshops are hosted. And aviation bus
and WWII acionados will exult to the war-
birds on display at the Palm Springs Air
Museum. Its one of the worlds foremost
museums dedicated to WWII aircraft, dis-
played in two hangars replicating the
European and Pacic theaters. Flying demos
are occasionally oered, as are Warbird
Rides in a P-51 Mustang and C-47 Skytrain.
To truly appreciate Palm Springs beauty
and scale from on high, lace up your hiking
shoes. The Bogert Trail complex rewards
hikers with sensational views over the city, as
does the Desert View Trail in Mount San Jac-
into State Park. The latter is reached via a
sensational ride on the Palm Springs Aerial
Tram. Talk about saving the best for last!

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 117
 LOS ANGELES COUNTY
A place for dreamers

BY JACQUELINE YAU
TOP CITIES
Los Angeles, West Hollywood, Burbank, Santa
Monica, Malibu, Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Venice,
Redondo Beach

INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY
Los Angeles International Airport (LAX),
19 miles (31 km) from downtown LA
DOMESTIC GATEWAYS
Long Beach Airport (LGB), 24 miles (38 km)
from downtown LA; Hollywood Burbank Airport
C
elebrated Whiplash and La La Land writer/director Damien
Chazelle once remarked, There is something to be said for
having even unrealistic dreams. Even if the dreams dont
come truethat to me is whats beautiful about Los Angeles. Its full
of these people who have moved there to chase these dreams. A lot of
those people are told by people around them that theyre crazy, or that

SEAN PAVONE/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ONEINCHPUNCH/SHUTTERSTOCK

(BUR), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown LA
theyre living in la la land.
TOURISM WEBSITES The City of Angels is the land of reinvention. Los Angeles County
experiencela.com
attracts seekers, dreamers, hustlers and wannabe actors/screen-
discoverlosangeles.com
visitwesthollywood.com writers/directors. Most come from somewhere else and are looking for
lovebeverlyhills.com something better with persistent optimism and self-expressiveness
downtownla.com
permeating the air.
visitpasadena.com
visitredondo.com But thanks to the Beach Boys harmonizing about California girls,
santamonica.com beach party movies of the 60s and TV shows like Baywatch, many
people think of Los Angeles as palm trees, endless beaches and bikini-
POPULATION
10.1 million clad women. But LA is far more complex. Its a mix of the old and new,
from cuisine to culture to ideas. The creativity and diversity of the
LOS region are reected in the more than 100 museums focused on the odd
ANGELES
COUNTY to the divine, the vibrant global street art community and the constant
evolution of the food scene.

118 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017 MUST
SEE,
THE HOLLYWOOD REEL INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL Screens new feature lms, DO
documentaries, shorts and videos by emerging lmmakers who possess an independent
spirit and create innovative work outside the studio system. Feb. 8-20 at multiple venues
and locations in Los Angeles. hollywoodreelindependentfilmfestival.com

FESTIVAL OF BOOKS Meet hundreds of literary lights and browse the booths at one of
Santa Monica Pier Long a favorite place to
people watch, play and eat. Savor a Will Rogers Hot
the largest book festivals in the country. The Los Angeles Times Festival of Books celebrates Fudge Brownie Sundae, ride a vintage-style carousel,
its 21st year. April 22-23 at USC. events.latimes.com/festivalofbooks view the area from the Ferris wheel (a movie
celebrity in its own right) and explore the theme
LOS ANGELES COMEDY FESTIVAL The nations largest comedy festival features lm, park on the 107-year-old pier. Snap a sele by the
End of the Trail sign on the pier for the legendary
live comedy acts and a screenplay competition. Held twice a year, May 4-13 and tentatively
Route 66, which ends its 2,450-mile journey here.
November 9-19 at Let Live Theatre in Los Angeles. Check website for details. lacomedyfest.com Dig your toes into the soft sand and join the surfers
or stroll along Ocean Front Walk alongside bikers,
LOTUS FESTIVAL This 37th annual celebration at Echo Park Lake honors the Asian Amer- skateboarders and rollerbladers. Need more? Walk a
ican community in Los Angeles and this year it features the people of Bangladesh. Expect few blocks to the pedestrian-only Third Street Prom-
live music, food, dance, and dragon boat races set against a backdrop of blooming lotus enade, a mix of retailers and restaurants.
ower beds. July 15-16 at Echo Park Lake in Los Angeles. facebook.com/lotusfestivalla santamonicapier.org

LA FOOD FEST Follow your nose to this annual festival celebrating more than 100 of LAs Street Food Cinema Pack a blanket, beach
chair and pillows and join other Angelenos for this
food vendors, from top chefs and renowned restaurants to gourmet food trucks and street
curated outdoor movie series at one of the 12 loca-
food stalls. Sample a variety of libations too, including craft cocktails and tequila. Whether tions from Pasadena to the Pacic Palisades. Choose
youre looking for a gourmet treat or a simple repast, youll nd something that satises. In from more than 50 events. Enjoy the conuence of
July at Exposition Park in Los Angeles. Check website for details. lafoodfest.com pop culture lms, celebrity guests, gourmet food
trucks and live music under the sun and stars.
626 NIGHT MARKET Inspired by the bustling Asian night markets, this evening bazaar streetfoodcinema.com
will spice up your senses with more than 200 food vendors (tempting your taste buds with
skewers of beef, spiraled fried potatoes, stinky tofu and mango shave ice), performers and Olvera Street Browse lucha libre (Mexican
retail booths. Entering its sixth year, this Asian-food festival is held in the summer at Santa wrestling) masks, Day of the Dead gurines, piatas
and other souvenirs in this block-long Mexican
Anita Park in Arcadia. June 30-July 2, July 21-23, Aug. 11-13, Sept. 1-3. Check website for details.
marketplace located in Los Angeles Plaza Historic
626nightmarket.com District. This section of LA was the town center
during the colonial era under Spanish and Mexican
THE ABBOT KINNEY FESTIVAL Founded in 1984, this eco-conscious artisan and food rule through most of the 19th century. Some vendors
festival attracts many to this bohemian-chic area in Venice. Located on a one-mile stretch are the descendants of the original merchants in
on Abbot Kinney Blvd., from Venice Blvd. to Main Street. Sept. 24 in Venice. abbotkinney.org this marketplace that was established in 1930 to
preserve and bring back old Los Angeles and its
WEST HOLLYWOOD CARNAVAL Every Oct. 31, more than 500,000 people attend the customs. Try a churro from Mr. Churros or a taco
amidst the street stalls and old structures.
worlds largest Halloween street party along Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood.
olvera-street.com
Dress up in your favorite costume and prepare to dance the night away.
visitwesthollywood.com/halloween-carnaval
See Improv, Sketch or Stand-up Comedy
Plan to laugh a lot when you visit one of the many
comedy clubs in Los Angeles. You may see up-and-
SANTA MONICA PIER, below; Grith Observatory, Los Angeles, opposite. coming comedic geniuses honing their craft or a
legendary veteran headlining or dropping by.
Notable clubs include The Groundlings,
Hollywood Improv Comedy Club, Laugh Factory,
Upright Citizens Brigade and Comedy Store.
thecomedybureau.com/los-angeles-comedy-show-calendars
discoverlosangeles.com/blog/comedy-clubs-los-angeles

TCL Chinese Theatre Located along the

Hollywood Walk of Fame, the landmark TCL
Chinese Theatre remains a prized venue for movie
premieres. Compare your handprints and
footprints to those of more than 200 stars
memorialized in cement, including Charlie
Chaplin, Marilyn Monroe, Sidney Poitier, Jackie
Chan, Emma Watson, and Star Wars characters
including C-3PO, R2-D2 and Darth Vader.
tclchinesetheatres.com

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 119

INSIDERS
TIP
Near the GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY is
a local favorite. Mingle with
celebrities, moms, seniors, dog
walkers and more as you hike up
Mount Hollywood to take in the
gorgeous 360-degree views of the
entire LA Basin, from the Pacific
to the SAN GABRIEL MOUNTAINS,
including the Hollywood sign on
MOUNT LEE. Start on FERN DELL
DRIVE off LOS FELIZ in GRIFFITH
PARK and walk away from Los Feliz
up the hill to the Observatory and
continue up the path, or for a
shorter walk, park at the
Observatory and start there on
the CHARLIE TURNER TRAIL.
yelp.com/biz/ griffith-observatory-
hike-los-angeles
yelp.com/biz/charlie-turners-trail-los-angeles
120 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
The Nations Largest County
As the most populous county in the
nation, with more than 10 million resi-
dents, Los Angeles County comprises 88
cities with more than 100 languages
spoken within its 4,084 square miles. The
county is larger than the states of Rhode
Island and Delawarecombined.
The entertainment industry is an integral
part of the local economy, annually con-
tributing $47 billion to the region. For
decades, the name Hollywood has been syn-
onymous with the movie business, but today
most studios have moved into neighboring
suburbs such as Burbank and Culver City.
Some of the better-known areas in LA
County arent even cities but rather dis-
tricts or neighborhoods within Los
Angeles, such as Hollywood, Silver Lake
and Venice. In contrast, Beverly Hills,
home to the most expensive residences in
the world, and West Hollywood, a diverse
melange of gays, Russians and musicians,
are cities but completely surrounded by
the city of Los Angeles.
Seventy miles of beaches run along Los
Angeles Countys southwest border.
Malibu, an exclusive seaside community,
has some of the most beautiful beaches in
the area. To the north, hikers and moun-
tain climbers can explore trails in the
Santa Monica Mountains. To the east, the
San Gabriel Mountains rise up to more
than 10,000 feet above sea level.
City and Town
Los Angeles, the second most populous
city in the nation, dominates the county.
Writer Dorothy Parker once quipped, Los
Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city.
Now, well over 100 neighborhoods in LA
form a rich cultural stew. Meander around
Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Art and
Fashion Districts, the Latino enclaves
around Echo Park, Hollywoods Laurel
Canyon, Little Armenia, Thai Town or
Melrose District where hipsters shop.
When in LA, do as the celebs do and
start the day by stretching at Bryan Kests
Power Yoga studio in Santa Monica. Go
shopping at cool indie shops featuring
local labels and fashionable imports along
Venices Abbot Kinney. Need an outt for
an awards show? Head over to Decades on
Melrose Avenue, a couture vintage store
where many stylists choose red-carpet
gowns for their star clients.
Hungry? Eat at The Griddle Cafe, a
Sunset Boulevard institution known for
its gigantic pancakes and the steady ow
of celebrities lunching there. Or chow
down on a chili dog at Pinks famous
corner stand at Melrose and La Brea
LITTLENY/SHUTTERSTOCK; OPPOSITE: ONEINCHPUNCH/SHUTTERSTOCK; MATT MARRIOTT/DISCOVER LA
avenues. Watch a Lakers basketball game
at the Staples Center and see stars on the
court and in the stands. End the day sip-
ping a cocktail at Chateau Marmont in
West Hollywood, where celebrities meet
their agents and studio execs.
Hollywood
Conceived originally as an outdoor bill-
board promoting a housing development
called Hollywoodland in 1923, the Holly-
wood sign sits on the south side of Mount
Lee and Grith Parklong a symbol that
this is a place where dreams can come true.
The rst movie studio, the Nestor
Motion Picture Company, opened in the
fall of 1911 in Hollywood on the north-
west corner of Sunset Boulevard and
Gower Street. It was absorbed by the Uni-
versal Film Manufacturing Company,
which later became Universal Studios. By
the 1920s, 80 percent of the worlds lms
were shot in California.
Learn more about Tinsel Towns history,
and experience its memorabilia at The Hol-
lywood Museum. Or participate in the
Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sci-
ences events and get swept up in the
pre-Oscar buzz.

The Great Outdoors

Despite its car culture rap, LA County oers
lots of outdoor activities. Rent a bike along
the Santa Monica Pier and ride down the
path that parallels the ocean, through
Venice and on to Marina del Rey before
doubling back. Pack a picnic lunch and hike
Echo Mountain in Altadena or the Arroyo
Seco trail system in the San Gabriel Moun-
tains. Sign up for rock-climbing
instruction, take a surng or stand-up
paddle boarding lesson from one of the
many surng centers in Santa Monica.
Explore the countys many and varied
beaches, from the famous to the little
known, but bring a sweater. In the summer,
FLYING AT THE VENICE BEACH skate
park, above; Walk of Fame on Hollywood
Boulevard in Los Angeles, opposite top;
light rail train in downtown Los Angeles,
opposite below.
TAKING IT ALL IN at the Hollywood Hills,
right; Getty Center, below.

moist marine air is pulled inland and forms
a misty cover until it burns o by the after-
noon. Start in Malibu and show your stu
at the legendary Surfrider Beach at Malibu
Lagoon State Beach and explore tide pools
and caves at Leo Carrillo State Park. Perhaps
watch lming in progress at Malibus Point
Dume State Beach, often featured in movies
such as the Iron Man series (2008-2013). It
also appeared in the nal scene of the orig-
inal Planet of the Apes (1968). Or look out for
DRIVE
TOUR
MULHOLLAND DRIVE
offers spectacular views of
the HOLLYWOOD BOWL,
the LA BASIN and
SAN FERNANDO VALLEY.
Its about 24 miles from the
405 freeway to Highway 101 with overlooks all along the way. Or, drive
in a loop from HOLLYWOOD. Starting at the DOLBY THEATRE, home of
California gray whales during their migra-
tion from December to mid April. Next,
wind your way down through Topanga
Beach and stop over for a volleyball game at
Will Rogers State Beach in Pacic Palisades.
Then hop over to Venice and the Strand on
Manhattan Beach to people-watch.
Family Fun
Check out fossils of saber-toothed cats and
mammoths that roamed the LA Basin
during the Ice Age at the Page Museum at
the Rancho La Brea Tar Pits. Or if the kids
are tired of trying to spot stars on Holly-
wood Boulevard, take them to Grith
Observatory. Featured in many movies
including Rebel Without a Cause (1955), the
observatory is set on the southern slope of
Mount Hollywood in Grith Park, with a
view of the Hollywood sign and greater LA
below. View exhibits and events on
Tuesday through Sunday at the Samuel
Oschin Planetarium and Leonard Nimoy
Event Horizon Theater, and attend free
public star parties monthly at the Observa-
tory from 2 p.m. to 9:45 p.m. Budding
astronomers and their families are encour-
aged to try out dierent telescopes and talk
to amateur astronomers about the sun,
moon and planets.
Visit the California Science Center that
houses theEndeavour, the nal ship to be
built in NASAs space shuttle program, after
traveling almost 123 million miles. View
actual space capsules from the Mercury, YULIA MAYOROVA/SHUTTERSTOCK; THE J. PAUL GETTY TRUST

the Academy Awards, go west on HOLLYWOOD BLVD. in Los Angeles Gemini and Apollo-Soyuz missions. Spe-
till it ends. Turn right on LAUREL CANYON BLVD. and at the top, turn
cial exhibits include the new Science
left on Mulholland Drive. Stop at the NANCY HOOVER POHL
Behind Pixar, which runs at least until
OVERLOOK and enjoy a great view of the Valley. Return to
April 9, 2017. Enjoy the many touch-
Mulholland Drive, going eastbound, past Laurel Canyon Road until
you see the HOLLYWOOD BOWL OVERLOOK on your right. Park and
friendly exhibits such as the High-Wire

walk up to see the panoramic views of downtown LA, the Hollywood Bicycle, which allows the courageous to
sign, Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood Bowl Amphitheater. safely bike along a one-inch wire 43 feet
Continue east until you reach the bottom of Mulholland Drive. Turn above the ground. The gravitational forces
right on Woodrow Wilson and make an immediate right onto on the counterweight prevent the bicycle
CAHUENGA BLVD., heading south back to Hollywood. from tipping over and illustrate the center
of gravity law.

122 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 REDONDO BEACH
SoCals family-friendly seaside playground
PERCHED ALONGSIDE the Pacic Ocean
SWIM, BIKE, with glorious coastline and a lively pier,
DINE, RELAX! Redondo Beach is an ideal venue for living
the California dream, if only for the
Redondo Beach
weekend. Just seven miles from LAX and
Chamber of Commerce
& Visitors Bureau not far from Los Angeles top attractions,
visitredondo.com historic Redondo Beach is a destination in
its own right.
Typically sunny and in the 80s in
summer and comfortable the rest of the
year, the beach is less crowded than better-
REDONDO BEACH AND PIER, above; known sands in Malibu and Santa Monica.
paddle boarding in the marina, below. Popular activities include sport shing,
whale watching, diving, surng and stand-
up paddle boarding; biking and beach
volleyball are available too.
Redondo Beach rose to prominence early in
th
the 20 century when George Freeth came from
Oahu and introduced surng to the mainland.
Known as the Man Who Can Walk on Water,
Freeth attracted thousands of spectators who
gawked in amazement as he rode his eight-
foot-long wooden surfboard from sea to shore.
Today the Redondo Beach Pier attracts
visitors with events including the annual
Redondo Beach Lobster Festival, Sept. 22-24
(lobsterfestival.com), a classic car show and
a kite festival (redondopier.com/events).
On the third Saturday of each month
there are free yoga sessions on the pier,
which has more than 50 shops, rides and
124 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO
restaurants, and there are more choices on
the piers adjacent International Boardwalk.
Chef Tin Vuong recently opened Sub-
urbia, a restaurant in Redondo Beachs
Riviera Village featuring global specialties.
There are lots of American standards too.
The citys cultural anchor is the Redondo
Beach Performing Arts Center. The 1,457-
seat venue hosts performances by the Los
Angeles Ballet, a slack key guitar festival,
and theatrical musicals such as Oklahoma!,
which premieres in mid June.
For lodging, a top pick is The Portono, a
waterfront hotel with ocean views in Redondo
Beachs marina. A new upscale hotel called
Shade, with yacht-chic design elements and a
rooftop pool, overlooks the marina.
While staying in Redondo Beach, dont
miss SEA Lab, a marine science education
center (lacorps.org/programs/sea-lab). If
youre in Redondo Beach between
November and April, look out to sea and try
to spot gray whales migrating between Cal-
ifornia and Mexico. You can often see the
behemoths from shore; to get closer, book
a whale watching tour on a boat such as the
Voyager (voyagerexcursions.com).
But perhaps the best way to enjoy Redondo
VISIT REDONDO
Beach is to simply relax in the sand, watch the
waves curl and enjoy some California dreamin
in one of the states premier beach towns.
ORANGE COUNTY
Diverse cities forge distinct identities apart from beaches and theme parks

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL
TOP CITIES
Anaheim, Buena Park, Costa Mesa, Fullerton,

B
Garden Grove, Huntington Beach, Irvine, eneath the suburban facade, Orange County is a diverse collection
Laguna Beach, Newport Beach, Orange,
of cities with distinct personalities. Even Anaheim has established
San Juan Capistrano, Santa Ana, San Clemente
an identity apart from Disneyland, with its massive convention
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY center, revival of the historic Center Street Promenade commerce district,
John Wayne/Orange County Airport (SNA), and the bustling Packing House food hall and market.
located at the juncture of Costa Mesa,
Santa Ana and Newport Beach near I-405
Forty-two miles of idyllic sands fringe the robust, ever-developing OC,
which counts renowned surf breaks, historic missions, art colonies and
TOURISM WEBSITES scenic marinas among its attractions. Its beach cities still embody the
visittheoc.com
casual, creative California of popular imagination, from surf-centric Hunt-
visitanaheim.org
visitbuenapark.com ington Beach to tony Newport Beach to artsy Laguna Beach to serene San
travelcostamesa.com Clemente. Inland cities that grew among the bygone orange groves have
surfcityusa.com
been joined by master-planned communities. Chief among these is Irvine,
destinationirvine.com
visitlagunabeach.com encompassing a University of California campus, the still nascent Orange
visitnewportbeach.com County Great Park and several villages.
sanjuancapistrano.org
About 30 percent of OC residents hail from another country, and English
POPULATION is a second language for 45 percent; its Little Saigon is the largest Viet-
3,169,776 namese community outside of Vietnam. A true melting pot, the county
hosts a dizzying array of ethnic food, festivals, markets and cultural events.
Performance venues such as the Orange County Performing Arts Center
and the South Coast Repertory are sprinkled throughout the county. Desti-
ORANGE nation shopping malls such as Irvine Spectrum, Costa Mesas South Coast
COUNTY Plaza and Fashion Island in Newport Beach vie with dozens of local shop-
ping districts.

126 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 MUST
SEE,
DO

Disneyland Resort The wait for the as-yet

unscheduled opening of Star Wars Land is a good
time to take advantage of the Walk in Walts
Disneyland Footsteps behind-the-scenes tour. Uncle
Walt might not have seen Star Wars coming, but
participants will learn just what a visionary he was
and take a spin on some classic rides along the way.
disneyland.disney.go.com
Old Towne Orange This one square mile of
Early California houses handsome Victorian,
Craftsman, Bungalow and Spanish architecture.
Among the locally owned shops, galleries, fountains
and pretty sidewalk cafs are the countys oldest
operating bank and soda fountain. The one thing that
must not be missed is the Old Towne Orange Walking
OCEAN IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK; JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK; KIT LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK

SUNSET AT LAGUNA BEACH,
opposite; preparing to snorkel
in San Clemente, left; Hilltop
Park in Dana Point, top;
Anaheim Regional Intermodal
Transit Center, above.
SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017
DANA POINT WHALE FESTIVAL March 4-5, 11-12, Dana Point festivalofwhales.org
SWALLOWS DAY PARADE AND MERCADO STREET FAIRE March 25,
San Juan Capistrano swallowsparade.com
Food Tour.
iheartoldtowneorange.com
oldtownorangewalkingfoodtours.com
Laguna Beach and Pageant of the Masters
Remaining true to its origins as a small artists colony
in the early 1900s, Laguna Beach stages many
festivals, galleries and abundant public art. Its pice
de rsistance is Pageant of the Masters, 90 minutes
of living art tableaux in which costumed people
portray some world art masterpieces with eerie
delity.
visitlagunabeach.com
foapom.com
Balboa Island Ferry Fun-seekers can drive,
bicycle or walk onto the ferry for the short crossing
to this manmade island in Newport Harbor.
Diversions include viewing classic beach bungalow
architecture, parasailing, a shing pier and the
Balboa Fun Zonea mini version of Californias old
seaside amusement parks. Getting there truly is half
the fun.

BATTLE OF THE MARIACHIS May 13, Mission San Juan Capistrano missionsjc.com
balboaislandferry.com
explorebalboaisland.com
SAWDUST ART FESTIVAL June 30-Sept. 3, Laguna Beach sawdustartfestival.org
thebalboafunzone.com

HUNTINGTON BEACH 4TH OF JULY PARADE July 4, Huntington Beach hb4thofjuly.org
PAGEANT OF THE MASTERS July 7-Aug. 31, Laguna Beach foapom.com
TALL SHIPS FESTIVAL Sept. 8-10, Dana Point Harbor tallshipsfestival.com
NEWPORT BEACH CHRISTMAS BOAT PARADE Dec. 13-17, Newport Beach
christmasboatparade.com
Diamond Jamboree Irvines answer to the
question of where to start sampling the OCs
abundant ethnic food is a collection of 20-plus
international eateries serving fare originating
primarily in Taiwan, Japan, China, Korea, Vietnam
and Thailand. Wildly popular with UC students, it
has a comfortable collegiate air. Be prepared:
Parking is a challenge.
diamond-jamboree.com

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 127
2017 Guide to California.qxp_Layout 1 2017-01-30 1:17 PM Page 128

Sports fans cheer the Los Angeles Angels

at the Angel Stadium of Anaheim and the
Anaheim Ducks hockey team at Honda
Center, which doubles as a big-name con-
cert venue. More than 40 championship
courses and a temperate climate await
golfers, while hotel and day spas stand
ready to soothe aches and tone muscles.

City & Town

Anaheim is the largest of Orange Countys
34 cities. None has a truly distinctive
downtown, though Huntington Beach
oers a vibrant seaside city center. History
bus gravitate to San Juan Capistranos
beautifully preserved 18th-century mission,
Yorba Lindas Nixon Presidential Library
and the restored Victorian homes and his-
toric city centers in Santa Ana and Orange.

INSIDERS
TIP
Southern Californias renowned
CAR CULTURE goes to extremes in
Newport Beach, which seems to
have more exotic auto
dealerships than Starbucks.
Aficionados can ogle BMW,
Maserati, Bentley and McLaren
beauties along seven miles of
Pacific Coast Highway from
Newport Boulevard to Newport
Center Drive. PHILLIPS AUTO sells
used versions of all of the above,
as well as Ferraris, Jaguars and
Lotuses. FASHION ISLAND, inland
on Newport Center Drive, is
home to Tesla, and Aston Martin
is a short way beyond.
LAMBORGHINI NEWPORT BEACH,
strangely enough, is actually in
adjacent Costa Mesaor
perhaps not so strange in a
world where the Los Angeles
Angels are in Anaheim.

128 2017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 PELICAN HILL GOLF COURSE, opposite
top; heading for the surf at Huntington
Beach Pier, opposite bottom; Cowabunga
Beach Cattle Drive at the Orange County
Fair, Huntington Beach, left; Tall Ship
Festival at Dana Point, below.

The Great Outdoors

The coastline with its world-famous surf
spots (Huntington Beach, the Wedge at
Newport Beach, Trestles in San Clemente),
yacht harbors (Newport Beach, Dana Point)
and protected areas (Crystal Cove State
STEVE CUKROV/SHUTTERSTOCK; COSTA MESA CVB. OPPOSITE: ORANGE COUNTY CVB; OCEAN IMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

Parks underwater reserve, the wetlands of

Californias rst state beach, Doheny) are
just the beginning of Orange Countys nat-
ural wonders. Inland canyons and parks
teem with wildlife and hiking and biking
trails, such as Irvines 300-acre San Joaquin
Wildlife Sanctuary.
DRIVE
Family Fun TOUR
Disneyland and Knotts Berry Farm are a
given, but dont overlook attractions such as
Sky Zone Anaheims indoor trampolines, Highway 1 offers the most
more than 100 hands-on exhibits at Santa scenic drive following the
Anas Discovery Science Center, and marine coastline from DANA
science and history learned aboard a tall POINT to LONG BEACH, a
ship or a research vessel with Dana Points drive best attempted on
Ocean Institute. The new Great Wolf Lodge weekdays between rush
oers a multitude of family activities, such hours. Stop in the popular
as a game theater, miniature golf, a bowling towns of LAGUNA BEACH,
alley and a kids spa, all open to the public. But NEWPORT BEACH or
the big attraction is restricted to guests of the HUNTINGTON BEACH for
600-suite hotel: a 2 acre indoor water park a taste of the Southern
with a river, a wave pool, a variety of thrill rides California beach scene.
and slides, and a constant 84-degree climate
(sans sunburn).

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 129
SAN DIEGO COUNTY
Beauty, intelligence and excitement come together
in the quintessential beach city

BY MARIBETH MELLIN

TOP CITIES
San Diego, Coronado, Chula Vista, La Jolla, Del Mar,

C
alifornia has no shortage of beach towns, but San Diego is its only beach
Encinitas, Solana Beach, Carlsbad, Oceanside,
Escondido, El Cajon, Julian, Borrego Springs city, where the states second-largest population enjoys 70 miles of scenic
coastline and 70-degree temperatures. Outdoor fun and family-oriented
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY
attractions are the main lures, but San Diego takes the city part seriously, too.
San Diego International Airport (SAN), also known as
Lindbergh Field, is conveniently located on the edge
Artistic and intellectual pursuits enjoy deep support here. Writers, artists, musicians
of downtown and scientists nd inspiration while surng at La Jolla Shores or jogging in Mission
Bay Park. The Tony-winning Old Globe and La Jolla Playhouse send plays to Broadway
TOURISM WEBSITES
frequently. Scientic landmarks including the Salk Institute and Scripps Institute
sandiego.org
lajollabythesea.com
of Oceanography are magnets for some of the worlds brightest minds.
coronadovisitorcenter.com Downtowns diversions alone could easily ll a week. New, exciting restau-
delmarmainstreet.com rants, clubs and shops pop up in trendy neighborhoods, creating a constant
visitcarlsbad.com
buzz. The Embarcadero tracing San Diego Bays edge oers access to the USS
visitoceanside.com
Midway aircraft carrier; the Maritime Museum with its landmark Star of India
WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LEMERGE/SHUTTERSTOCK
eastcountychamber.org
and new San Salvador, a replica of Spanish explorers ships; the expansive Water-
POPULATION front Park; and the San Diego Convention Center.
3 million
Cruise ships berth at the foot of Broadway and passengers into San Diego
International Airport y over high-rise towers to land just north of downtown.
Hotels of every description and hip-quotient are scattered throughout the citys
core, making it a desirable place to stay.

A Bridge to Coronado
SAN The swooping San Diego-Coronado Bridge connects downtown to Coronado, a
DIEGO genteel city with an active Navy base and one of the worlds loveliest beaches.
COUNTY Its island actually is a peninsula tethered to the mainland by the Silver Strand,
a narrow strip of road and sand running past Navy installations and pristine

130 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
beaches to the south county. The red tur-
rets atop the Victorian Hotel del Coronado
peek above the citys modest skyline.
Coronados pleasures include shopping
and dining on Orange Avenue, visiting the
Coronado Museum of History & Art,
ogling the San Diego skyline from Tide-
lands Park and teeing o at Coronado
Municipal Golf Course.
Balboa Park
San Diegos century-old cultural heart occu-
MUST
pies 1,200 acres of hills and canyons just
east of downtown. It hosts 17 museums and
SEE,
The Old Globe theater, winner of multiple DO
Tony Awards. Its most famous tenant, the
justly renowned San Diego Zoo, celebrated
its Centennial in 2016 and opens a huge
new Africa Rocks exhibit in 2017. Belmont Park The compact amusement
parks 1925 Giant Dipper rollercoaster marks the
unofficial entrance to the boardwalk along the
perpetually packed sands of Mission and Pacific
beaches. The parks wave machines give newbies a
chance to ride relatively tame waves before braving
the open ocean.
belmontpark.com

La Jolla This upscale Mediterranean-style

community lives up to its name (The Jewel in
Spanish), with a postcard-ready setting, white sands,
turquoise waters, sea caves (including Sunny Jim
Cave, Californias only known land-access sea cave)
and an Underwater Park teeming with pinnipeds,
rays, scuttling lobsters and countless fish. Its not
just another pretty face, though; it hosts the Tony
Award-winning La Jolla Playhouse, Museum of
SAN DIEGO BAY and the city skyline, opposite; Coronado Bridge, above.
Contemporary Art San Diego, Murals of La Jolla and
the Birch Aquariumwhile also offering the Rodeo
Drive of San Diego, named for Prospect Streets
SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017
stellar shops, galleries and restaurants.
lajollabythesea.com

San Diego Zoo Known for its naturalistic

FARMERS INSURANCE OPEN Jan. 26-29, Torrey Pines Golf Course, La Jolla habitats, endangered animal species and adorable
farmersinsuranceopen.com
giant pandas, the zoo requires a minimum of a full
GASLAMP QUARTER MARDI GRAS Feb. 28, Downtown San Diego sdmardigras.com day. Allow time for the fabulous shops.
sandiegozoo.org
ART WALK @ LITTLE ITALY April 29-30, Little Italy artwalksandiego.org

FIESTA OLD TOWN CINCO DE MAYO May 6-8, Old Town San Diego
Balboa Park The countrys largest urban
cincodemayooldtown.com cultural park is a rambling landscape of museums,
theaters, artists studios and gardens. The tiled
SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR June 2-July 4, Del Mar Fairgrounds sdfair.com California Tower, with its unobstructed 360-degree
view of the park and city, has become a treasured
ROCK N ROLL MARATHON June 3-4, Central San Diego runrocknroll.competitor.com/san-diego
landmark, reopened after an 80-year closure for the
PORT OF SAN DIEGO BIG BAY BOOM July 4, San Diego Bay bigbayboom.com parks centennial in 2015
balboapark.org
SAN DIEGO LGBT PRIDE PARADE, RALLY & FESTIVAL July 15, Hillcrest and Balboa Park
sdpride.org
Cabrillo National Monument High above
DEL MAR THOROUGHBRED CLUB HORSERACING July 19-Sept. 4, Nov. 1-30, Del Mar the tip of Point Loma, this sprawling park
dmtc.com commemorates Juan Rodrguez Cabrillo and San
Diegos early history. Its most popular for the
COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL July 20-23, Downtown San Diego comic-con.org
panoramas of the boat-filled bay and sea, the
ARTWALK NTC @ LIBERTY STATION Aug. 12-13, San Diego artwalksandiego.org mountains to the east and the hills of Tijuana to the
south. Its a great place to look for whales spouting
SAN DIEGO BEER WEEK Nov. 3-12, Throughout San Diego County www.sdbw.org offshore in winter.
nps.gov/cabr/index.htm

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 131
SAN DIEGOS SPANISH COLONIAL
Revival railway station opened in March
1915 as the Santa Fe Depot, right; strolling
along the Point Loma hillside at the
Cabrillo National Monument, opposite top;
the Unconditional Surrender statue at the
USS Midway, opposite below.

INSIDERS
TIP
Everybody has to eat some time,
even the Nobel-award winning
scientists and acclaimed
academics at San Diegos
research centers and
universities. Some institutional
cafeterias and restaurants open
to the public rival the views and
cuisine at neighborhood hot
spots. THE SALK CAFE at the
architecturally stunning Salk
Institute for Biological Studies
overlooking the open sea offers
a daily lunch menu aimed at Beach Towns modernist condo complexes, trendy shops
pleasing a polyglot assemblage, The coast between the Mexican border (18 and gourmet restaurants helmed by top
with Indian, Asian, Vegan and miles south of downtown) and Oceanside is chefs. As the hub of San Diegos sophisti-
good old American burgers lined with beach towns. Each has a unique cated nightlife scene, the entire downtown

JORG HACKEMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: DANCESTROKES/SHUTTERSTOCK; KAN_KHAMPANYA/SHUTTERSTOCK

priced for student budgets.
CAROLINES SEASIDE CAFE at the
Scripps Institute of
Oceanography serves up
blueberry pancakes,
sandwiches, salads and
enchiladas overlooking La Jolla
Shores and research vessels
moored by the Scripps Pier.
Wild canyons and Mission Bay
provide the backdrop for the
University of San Diegos
LA GRAN TERRAZAs elegant
GRAND DINING ROOM. Business
dress is in order inside, but the
terrace is more casual and the
$15 buffet lunch is a steal, while
the Wednesday night Prime Rib
buffet fuels hungry students
when the parents are around.
character, from Ocean Beachs hippie vibe to
classy La Jollas Mediterranean ambience.
Beloved by surfers and escapists with su-
cient wherewithal, a series of small
communities line the coast north of La
Jollas Torrey Pines State Reserve.
City & Town
San Diegos cosmopolitan downtown
encompasses several hip neighborhoods.
The historic Gaslamp Quarters picturesque
streets are packed with classy restaurants
th
and clubs in restored 19 -century Victo-
rian, Baroque and Frontier buildings. Petco
Park, downtowns baseball stadium,
anchors the East Village lled with condo
complexes, cafs and a stunning Central
Library. Little Italy managed to hold on to
some venerable pizza parlors, bakeries and
bars while evolving from a simple Italian
community into an urban enclave with
now pulses with energy day and night.
The urban core continues uptown
through Bankers Hill and Hillcrest, the
lively heart of the LGBT community. Over
the past decade, the former Naval Training
Center, now called Liberty Station, has
evolved into a mini-town with stores,
oces, galleries, schools and the Liberty
Public Market occupying the bases
Spanish Colonial-style former commissary
building. Abundant open space makes
Liberty Station the perfect spot for art shows,
family gatherings and special events.
The Great Outdoors
Surfers, swimmers, boaters and anglers all
play in and on the Pacic Ocean, from
Imperial Beach near the Mexican border
north to Oceanside and the Marine base at
Camp Pendleton. Snorkeling is especially
good at La Jolla Cove, while surfers prefer

132 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Ocean Beach, Pacic Beach and dozens of
small patches of sand with gnarly waves
just oshore.
East and north of the city center, the
landscape gives way to rolling foothills and
canyons. Lakes and reservoirs oer fresh-
water shing and tranquility. The vast
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, home of
Californias Grand Canyon at Fonts Point,
provides hiking trails through palm
canyons, elds of cacti and dazzling wild-
ower displays.
Heritage & Culture
Explorer Juan Rodrguez Cabrillo spotted San
Diego Bay in 1542 but quickly sailed on
north, leaving the Kumeyaay Indians to their
warm, bountiful home. San Diego Countys
18 tribes represent the largest concentration
in the country, and more than half benet
from casinos in east and north counties.
Cabrillos brief stay is commemorated at
Cabrillo National Monument at the tip of
Point Loma overlooking the bay. European
settlers who returned in 1769 built a fort
and mission church at Presidio Hill, a gor-
geous swath of lawns above Old Town State
Historic Park, which contains many of San
Diegos oldest buildings.
Family Fun adjacent one-acre park allows kids to burn
Adults and children alike relish the energy. Teens ock to ghter planes and
San Diego Zoo and its separate Safari ight simulators at the USS Midway
Park, LEGOLAND California and SeaWorld Museum. Top choices for inexpensive
San Diego. Downtowns New Childrens entertainment: Bicycling at Mission Bay
Museum is an eco-friendly playground for and Coronado, shing o piers in Imperial
all ages, with multicultural, bilingual Beach and Ocean Beach and stargazing from
exhibits that make learning fun, and its Mount Palomar.

DRIVE
TOUR OCEANSIDE

CARLSBAD

Historic Highway 101, also called the PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY, runs through
San Diegos idyllic NORTH COUNTY coastal communities, passing by gor-
geous long beaches and wild lagoons. You can do the trip in a couple of
hours, but why hurry? Begin at the north end of La Jolla at TORREY PINES
LEUCADIA
STATE PARK and descend a steep hill to Torrey Pines beach, then uphill again
MOONLIGHT BEACH
ENCINITAS
to DEL MAR. Stop signs at each block force you to slow down and appreciate
the Tudor-style buildings and quaint shops and cafs in town before you CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA

descend again and cruise through SOLANA BEACH, CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA,

SOLANA BEACH
ENCINITAS, LEUCADIA, CARLSBAD and OCEANSIDE. Each towns main street
presents an array of dining and browsing options, from funky Mexican take- DEL MAR

out stands to fancy restaurants on the sand. Of the many beaches along the
way, MOONLIGHT BEACH in Encinitas presents the most playtime possibili- TORREY PINES
STATE PARK
ties including a playground, snack bar, picnic tables and a year-round
lifeguard station. Take your time and stop often. The distance between
Torrey Pines and Oceanside is only 25 miles, but you can easily spend a full
day exploring. When youre ready to return to central San Diego, just hop on
I-5 South at one of the many entrances along 101.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 133
 SAN DIEGO ZOO
& SAFARI PARK
Born to be wild
ONE OF THE WORLDS 10 largest zoos,
San Diego Zoo earns its worldwide fame on
many fronts. It pioneered the concept of
zoos without cages. It houses 3,500 ani-
mals representing 650 species and
subspecies on 100 acres of Balboa Park,
forming a lush, 700,000-plant arboretum
in the process of re-creating the animals
natural habitats. Many of its denizens are
increasingly scarce in the wild. Perhaps
most important, the zoos Institute for
Conservation Research lends its expertise
to 140 conservation and species-preserva-
tion projects in 80 countries and has been
instrumental in replenishing populations
of the giant condor, giant panda and Tas-
manian devil, among many other species.
The Panda Trek, Asian leopard habitat
and the Australian Outback, home to
koalas mingling with other marsupials and
birds, are among the most popular areas.
Under construction for two years, a major
new Africa Rocks project opens this
summer at the center of the zoo. The eight-
acre habitat is the largest attraction created
for the zoo in its 100 years in operation.
134 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY MARIBETH MELLIN AND CHRISTINE DELSOL
The landscape recreates parts of six
African regions, with a 65-foot waterfall
representing Madagascar, and is designed
to make baboons, monkeys, zebras and
crocodiles feel right at home. Endangered
African penguins have their own habitat,
where the zoo hopes to breed ocks of
baby penguins.
San Diego Zoo Safari Park
Originally a breeding facility for the down-
town zoo, this 1,800-acre adjunct park 35 miles
to the northeast in Escondido oers wide-
open spaces where more than 2,600 animals
run free. While it concentrates on herd ani-
mals such as giraes, antelopes and rhinos
from the African and Asian savannahs, the
park houses about 300 species and subspecies.
Getting close to these creatures can be
as simple as walking through areas such as
the Tiger Trail, the Lemur Walk or the
Cheetah Run, where you can feel the
whoosh of the worlds fastest cat speeding
past you. Riding on the popular Africa
Tram presents photo ops with herds of
giraes, crashes of rhinos and ocks of
A CHILD GETS TO FEED a girae at San
Diego Zoo, top; Flightline Safari, a zip-line
adventure, above.
exotic birds. To focus on a favorite animal,
attend an animal encounter with
zookeepers explaining the characteristics
of Sumatran tigers or training birds for the
Frequent Flyers bird show. For a complete
overview, join one of the various safaris,
undertaken by cart, caravan, jungle ropes
or zip line. You can even sleep among the
SAN DIEGO ZOO & SAFARI PARK
animals on a Roar and Snore Safari. Like
the downtown zoo, the Safari Park creates
a lineup of special exhibits and animal pre-
sentations that guarantee a new
experience even for visitors who return
over and over throughout their lives.
 SHASTA CASCADE
Adventure and mysticism in the shadow
of an iconic mountain

BY JOHN FLINN
TOP CITIES
Redding, Mount Shasta City, Weaverville, Weed,
Chico, Oroville

J
utting 14,179 feet into the Northern California sky, Mount
Shasta is such an imposing presence that it creates its own
GATEWAY
Redding Municipal Airport (RDD) has flights from weathermost notably the strange-looking lenticular clouds
Los Angeles and San Francisco, and is 9 miles (14 km) that form on its summit. Some people see in them a jaunty beret,
from the Redding city center others a UFO mother ship. Its no wonder the snow-capped volcano
has long held a mysterious attraction for poets, artists, adventurers
TOURISM WEBSITES
visitsiskiyou.org and New Age mystics.
shastacascade.com At least two religions have been founded on the anks of the
visitredding.com mountain, which some believe to be a vortex for spiritual activity,
and a race of psychically advanced people named the Lemurians is
POPULATION
274,000 rumored to live inside.
Mount Shasta is the focal point of one of Californias least-popu-
lated regions, a land of high-desert tumbleweeds, majestic rivers
and craggy volcanoes. This is where the West Coasts two major
mountain rangesthe Sierra Nevada and the Cascadesrun head-
long into each other.
Just to the south of Shasta, Mount Lassen, the southernmost of
ANTON FOLTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

the Cascade peaks, erupted less than a century ago, spewing ash as
far as 200 miles away. Today, pots of boiling mud and steam vents
SHASTA smelling of rotten eggs attest that this volcano is far from dormant.
CASCADE
To the west rise the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains, relatively
unvisited gems that are popular venues for y shing and horseback

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 137
 MOUNT SHASTA IN THE FALL,
previous page; a splash of fun for all at
Redding Waterworks Park, left; on the
MUST
trail to Bumpass Hell in Lassen Volcanic
SEE, National Park, below.
DO

The Great Outdoors

Eagle Refuge Witness the largest gathering
of bald eagles in the lower 48 states each winter at
the Lower Klamath and Tule Lake national wildlife
refuges, north of Mount Shasta.
fws.gov/refuge/Lower_Klamath
fws.gov/refuge/Tule_Lake
Days on the Lake Rent a spacious house-
boat and spend a few days exploring the almost
limitless coves and bays of Lake Shasta, with its
365 miles of shoreline.
houseboating.org/sha
sta/overview.cfm
Crystal Persuasion Experience Mount
Shasta Citys metaphysical side by shopping for a
Lemurian Seed Crystal at The Crystal Room. But be
warned that they wont let it go home with you
unless its a good energy match.
crystalsmtshasta.com
Castle Crags Do some exquisite hiking among
the soaring granite battlements of Castle Crags State
Park. Its right o Interstate 5 a few miles south of
Mount Shasta.
www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=454
trips. To the north, the Klamath Basin
National Wildlife Refuge, which extends
into southern Oregon, is part of the Pacic
Flyway: In the fall its skies are darkened by
more than a million migratory birds.
City & Town
For travelers, Redding was nothing more
than a pit stop along Interstate 5 until the
opening of the instantly iconic Sundial
Bridge across the Sacramento River in
2004. On the lower anks of its name-
sake peak, Mount Shasta City sports a
main street lined with New Age book-
stores and shops selling crystals said to
have mystical powers. No less an
authority than James Hilton, author of
Lost Horizon, once claimed that the pretty
alpine hamlet of Weaverville, gateway to
Mount Shasta is irresistible to climbers;
in the spring, summit-seekers are strung
out along its most popular routes like
ants on an anthill. To get to the top you
need an ice axe, crampons and the skill
to use them safely. But on Mount Lassen,
its neighbor to the south, a well-graded
trail runs all the way to the 10,457-foot-
high summit. World-class y shing
abounds in the Trinity Alps, and those
willing to walk a short distance with their
rods are almost guaranteed a spot to
themselves. On the Salmon River,
between the Trinity Alps and Marble
Mountains, Otter Bar Lodge (otterbar.com)
is one of the Wests premier whitewater
kayaking schools.
Heritage & Culture
The Shasta Tribe of Native Americans, a
band of hunters and shermen who
lived in cedar-plank houses with base-

SHASTA COUNTY CVB; CHRIS FLENTYE. OPPOSITE: TRINITY COUNTY CVB; MODOC COUNTY CVB
the Trinity Alps, was the closest hes ever ments, once occupied much of what is
Sundial Bridge Stroll across the Sundial
Bridge, Spanish architect Santiago Calatravas come to a real-life Shangri-La. now far-northern California and
now-iconic cantilever pedestrian span across the
Sacramento River, the centerpiece of the worth-
while Turtle Bay Exploration Park in Redding.
turtlebay.org/sundialbridge

INSIDERS
TIP
Railroad buffs can dine in a
vintage PULLMAN CLUB CAR and
bed down for the night in a
genuine caboose at the RAILROAD
PARK RESORT in Dunsmuir.
rrpark.com

138 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017
Classic cars, sock hops and 50s-style burger joints are the big attractions of Reddings
KOOL APRIL NITES. April 22-30 koolaprilnites.com

Eighty wild horses run free on the 5,000-acre WILD HORSE SANCTUARY near Mount
Lassen. Guided, two- and three-day rides are offered spring through fall, and a special
wildflower-themed ride is April 22-23. wildhorsesanctuary.org

The REDDING RODEO comes bucking out of the blocks for the 69th year in a row, with
classic riding and roping events, and mutton bustin for the kids. May 17-20
reddingrodeo.com

southern Oregon. Their population culminating in 1987s Harmonic Conver-

dropped rapidly as settlers seized land
following the discovery of gold in Yreka
and Upper Soda Springs in 1850. To the
east, at what is now Lava Beds National
Monument, the Modoc tribe and the U.S.
Army fought the last of the Indian wars
in California in 1872-73. In the late 1880s,
the Central Pacic Railroad spurred
development of the timber and tourism
industries, and in the 1970s, New Age
seekers began ltering into the area,
gence, which identied Shasta as one of
the worlds power centers.
Family Fun
The Sundial Bridge is the big draw, but for
families, the surrounding Turtle Bay Explo-
ration Center in Redding oers a full days
worth of activities emphasizing the Sacra-
mento River watershed, including an
aquarium, museum, zoo, botanical garden
and a recreated logging camp. turtlebay.org

RAFTING SERIOUS RAPIDS on

the Trinity River, left; Native
American ritual dance in
Modoc County, above right.

DRIVE
TOUR
The VOLCANIC LEGACY
SCENIC BYWAY is a
500-mile-long route that
winds from LAKE
ALMANOR, south of
Mount Lassen, to CRATER
LAKE in southern Oregon,
with access to most of the
regions major attractions.
volcaniclegacybyway.org

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 139
 REDDING
Headquarters for outdoor adventures
CREATED BY MINING and the railroads
HIKE, PADDLE, th th
in the late 19 and early 20 centuries, this
BIKE, STROLL city of 90,000 in the far northern reaches of
California has diversied its economy and
Redding Visitor culture in recent years to emerge as an
Information engaging travel destination.
visitredding.com Located three-hours drive northeast of
San Francisco on Interstate 5 beside the
Sacramento River, Redding takes full
SUNDIAL BRIDGE top; advantage of its many nearby natural
Shasta Lake Dam, below.
wonders. Its an ideal base for exploring
Mount Shasta and Mount Lassen, Mount
Lassen Volcanic National Park and
Trinity-Shasta National Park. These prime
attractions offer cycling, hiking, climbing,
fishing and camping. The 11-mile Sacra-
mento River National Recreation Trail, an
asphalt path for walkers and cyclists, fol-
lows the river.
Turtle Bay Exploration Park, located near
downtown, is anchored by one of Cali-
fornias best examples of contemporary
architecture and engineering: Sundial
Bridge, designed by the renowned Spanish
architect Santiago Calatrava. A striking,
cantilevered beauty for walkers and
cyclists, with a translucent, hardened glass
walkway, it premiered in 2004 and became
an instant icon of Redding. At one end of
140 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY DAVID ARMSTRONG
the white, 700-foot-long bridge is the spans
namesake: a sundial, one of the largest in
the world. Turtle Bay Exploration Park also
includes the Redding Visitor Center at 844
Sundial Drive.
With more than 300 days of sunshine a
year, Redding is rst and foremost an out-
door recreation hub. The Sacramento River
and nearby lakes help locals and visitors
alike to beat the areas summer heat with
ample opportunities for swimming,
kayaking and other watersports; 30,000-
acre Shasta Lake is an especially popular
place to chill. Taking free guided tours and
walking across 602-foot-high Shasta Dam
are popular, too.
Views of 14,179-foot Mount Shasta are
amply available in city and countryside.
Beholding the snowcapped volcanic peak
in 1874, naturalist John Muir exclaimed,
When I rst caught sight of it, I was weary
and 50 miles away and afoot. Yet all my
blood turned to wine, and I have not been
weary since.
Redding does not neglect indoor fun.
Performances are staged year-round in the
VISIT REDDING
beautifully restored Cascade Theatre, a 997-
seat city landmark built in Art Deco style
and opened in 1934.
NORTH COAST
Behind the redwood curtain lies a land of Victorian villages,
picture-perfect fishing harbors and inspired lunacy

TOP CITIES BY JOHN FLINN

Mendocino, Eureka, Crescent City, Fort Bragg,
Garberville, Arcata, Ukiah, Cloverdale, Ferndale

U
GATEWAY
ntil youve seen one up close, its hard to grasp just how
The Arcata-Eureka Airport (EKA), 16 miles (26 km) from neck-craningly tall a coastal redwood tree is. Remember
downtown Eureka, has service from San Francisco the gargantuan Saturn V, the 35-story-high rocket that
and other hubs, but no international flights
sent astronauts to the moon? The largest Sequoia sempervirens grow

TOURISM WEBSITES
even taller, topping out at 379 feet. These 3,000-year-old arboreal

WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: TOM REICHNER/SHUTTERSTOCK

delnorte.org titansnatures loftiest skyscrapersgrow in only one place in the
exploredelnorte.com world: a narrow strip of fog-shrouded mountains along Californias
northcoastca.com
wild and relatively unvisited North Coast.
redwoods.info
visitmendocino.com
The Redwood Highway
POPULATION Old-growth redwoods are preserved in a chain of parks strung
782,000
along Highway 101, known in these parts as the Redwood Highway.
In southern Humboldt County, Humboldt Redwoods State Park
straddles the scenic drive known as the Avenue of the Giants. In
northern Humboldt and Del Norte counties, a cluster of parks
NORTH Redwood National Park and Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte
COAST
Coast Redwoods and Jedediah Smith Redwoods state parksform
one contiguous redwood reserve.

142 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

SUNSHINE, FOG, SEA and forest grace the
coast between Crescent City and Eureka,
above; Roosevelt elk bulls joust during
September breeding season in Redwood
National and State Parks, right.
INSIDERS
TIP
To satisfy a lumberjack-sized
appetite, drive across HUMBOLDT
BAY on the SAMOA BRIDGE to the
SAMOA COOKHOUSE for colossal,
all-you-can-eat meals served
family style. The last surviving
cookhouse of its kind in the U.S.,
its been serving hungry mill
workers, longshoremen and
tourists since 1890.
samoacookhouse.net
The sounds of chainsaws and buzzing
sawmills that once dominated the North
Coast are rapidly fading as the lumber
industry winds down. In former mill
towns such as Fort Bragg, tourism is
replacing timber as innovative galleries,
restaurants and brew-pubs spring to life.
Although its sometimes called the
Redwood Empire, the North Coast is
more than just tall trees: Its also salmon-
shing boats bobbing in tiny harbors;
Roosevelt elk bugling across misty
meadows; steam trains chung through
a damp and dripping forest; hole-in-the-
wall restaurants serving sh smoked
according to traditional Native American
MUST
SEE,
DO
Forest Tracks Built in 1885 to haul redwood
logs from the tangled backcountry to coastal
sawmills, the iconic Skunk Train now carries
passengers on two dierent runs starting at Fort
Bragg and the inland town of Willits, respectively.
The shorter coastal route snakes along the Novo
River canyon, through redwood groves and past an
old logging camp. And dont worry: The trains name
derives from an original, stinky gasoline engine that
long ago was consigned to the junkyard.
skunktrain.com
Drive-Thru Tree Its an urge that belongs to
another eraand certainly wouldnt gladden the
hearts of Muir or Thoreaubut there are still a few
places along the North Coast where you can drive
your car through a tunneled-out redwood tree. The
most convenient is Drive-Thru Tree Park, near the
town of Leggett, just o Highway 101. But be
warned: The opening in the so-called Chandelier
Tree is just 6 feet wide and 6 feet, 9 inches tall. Not
all supersized SUVs can squeeze through.
drivethrutree.com
On the Waterfront Eureka has transformed
its waterfront Old Town from a skid row into a
lively and inviting district of Victorian storefronts
housing restaurants, galleries, shops and museums,
crowned by the iconic Carson Mansion, a
masterpiece of Victorian opulence.
eurekaoldtown.com
Ferry Tales Tour Humboldt Bay aboard the
Maraket, the last of a eet of tiny ferries that once
carried mill workers to their jobs. Its the oldest
vessel in continuous service in the country, with
the tiniest licensed bar in California.
humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com
Victorian Hamlet Gaily painted Victorian
mansions line the streets of Ferndale, an idyllic
hamlet on the Eel River delta in southern Humboldt
County. Lovingly preserved, they give the town a
turn-of-the-last-century look that has proven
irresistible to Hollywood. More than a dozen
movies have been lmed here. Main Streets shops
keep the Victorian theme going, with old-fashioned
mercantiles and even a blacksmith shop. Cradled
between two redwood forests, the entire town is
listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
victorianferndale.com
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 143

WOODLEY ISLAND MARINA, Humboldt
Bay, top; marveling at the tall trees in
Humboldt Redwoods State Park, left;
scoping out the surf at Point Arena wharf,
Mendocino County, bottom; Carson
Mansion in historic Old Town Eureka,
opposite.
DRIVE
TOUR
From the GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE,
head over to the SONOMA COAST
at Bodega Bay (yes, that Bodega
Bay: Alfred Hitchcock filmed The
Birds there), and follow dramatic,
winding Highway 1 north past the
old Russian fort, FORT ROSS, and
Sea Ranch, GUALALA, MENDOCINO
and FORT BRAGG before heading
inland to connect with Highway
101The Redwood Highwayat
LEGGETT, site of the DRIVE-THRU
TREE PARK. Continuing north on
the Redwood Highway, youll come
to HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE
PARK and the AVENUE OF THE
GIANTS, EUREKA and the cluster of
redwood parks extending almost to
the Oregon border.
144 2017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
recipes; vineyards close enough to the coast
to catch the salt spray; an old Russian
trading fort; handsome Victorian villages;
possible glimpses of the elusive creature
known as Bigfoot; wealthy, tie-dyed growers
of the regions largest cash crop, which Cal-
ifornia voters recently legalized; and bouts
of creative madness such as elaborate sculp-
tures racing across the landscape.
For generations, the North Coast was
said to be on the far side of the redwood
curtain, the psychological barrier formed
by narrow, tortuous Highway 101, which
was little more than a two-lane conduit for
heavily-laden logging trucks. But Cali-
fornia has spent the last two decades
improving the roadstraightening curves,
widening it in many places to four lanes
and now the road is an easy drive.
PIERDELUNE/SHUTTERSTOCK; SERGEY NOVIKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK; KERRICK JAMES. OPPOSITE: VICTORIA DITKOVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK
CRESCENT
CITY
EUREKA
HUMBOLDT
REDWOODS AVENUE OF THE GIANTS
STATE PARK
LEGGETT
MENDOCINO
GUALALA
FORT ROSS
BODEGA BAY
SAN FRANCISCO

City & Town
Transplanted New Englanders founded the
town of Mendocino on a rocky blu above
the crashing Pacic Ocean, and it still
sports a whitewashed Cape Cod look. Once
a mill town, it went into decay in the 1930s
as the local timber trade waned but was
rediscovered in the 1960s by bohemians
and artists. On the shore of Humboldt Bay,
SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017
WHALES AND WINE Gray whales pass by Mendocino in November on their way south for
the winter. At the Mendocino Whale Festival, you can sample all manner of chowder, locally
brewed beer and wine, whilewith any luckthe passing cetaceans spout just o the Men-
docino headlands. March 4 mendowhale.com
KINETIC SCULPTURE RACE Peripatetic artists of genius or possibly borderline sanity gather
each Memorial Day weekend to race giant, whimsical, people-powered sculptures from Arcata
to Ferndale along a 40-mile course that includes a crossing of Humboldt Bay. Its called the
triathalon of the art world. May 27-29 kineticgrandchampionship.com

Eureka, the largest town on the North

Coast, has also reversed decades of decline
and turned its waterfront Old Town into an
inviting Victorian district of galleries, bou-
tiques and cafs. Crescent City was
virtually wiped o the map by a tsunami in
1964. Rebuilt now, it sports a smattering of
hotels and motels that make it a good base
BIGFOOT DAYS The earliest and most persistent sightings of that elusive creature known as
Bigfoot have happened around the Siskiyou Mountain town of Willow Creek. Each year on
Labor Day weekend, the community fetes its furry friend with Bigfoot Days. Dont expect to
see the big guy himself, but youll encounter a number of people who claim to have met him.
Sept. 2 bigfootcountry.net
ALFRESCO ART Plein air artthat is, art created outside, with the world as subjectis cel-
ebrated at Plein Air at the Lost Coast. Workshops, competitions, lectures, nature hikes and

for exploring nearby Jedediah Smith Red- the painting of a communal mural are all part of the festival in the Humboldt County town of
Shelter Cove. Sept. 28-Oct. 2 pleinairatthelostcoast.com
woods State Park.

MUSHROOM MANIA More than 3,000 varieties of everyones favorite fungi grow along
Heritage & Culture the North Coast, and each fall Mendocino County celebrates with a festival of mushroom-
Native American tribes such as the Yurok picking tours, mushroom-and-wine pairings, special mushroom menus, mushroom arteven
and Hoopa lived along the North Coast for mushroom-accented cocktails. Nov. 3-12 visitmendocino.com/mendocino-county-events
centuries before the arrival of fur trap-
persboth Russians working their way
down from Alaska and American moun-
tain men such as Jedediah Smith coming
overland. For more than two centuries,
resource extractionprimarily logging
was the regions economic engine. As
dwindling forests and stricter environ-
mental laws took their tolls starting in the
1970s, the North Coast has transitioned to
tourism as its mainstay.

Family Fun
Young children might have trouble fully
appreciating the timelessness of an ancient
redwood tree, but theyll enjoy a gondola
ride through the silent forest canopy and a
chance to have their picture taken with
four-story-high statues of Paul Bunyan and
Babe the Blue Ox. Look for it at Trees of
Mystery, near the town of Klamath.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 145
 DEL NORTE COUNTY
Primeval forests with the worlds tallest trees

BY PETER WATTS

WHEN STAR WARS CREATOR George
HIKE, DRIVE, Lucas was looking for a place to represent
REFLECT, the forest moon of Endor in Return of the
Jedi, he wanted a jungly kind of place, the
EPLORE color of life, a cradle of life environment.
Crescent City/ He found his home for the Ewoks in Del
Del Norte County Norte County, in the far upper left hand
Visitor Information corner of California, not far from the
delnorte.org
Oregon border.
exploredelnorte.com
Some of the states most gorgeously
1-800-343-8300
primeval redwood forests abound here,
anywhere else in California. Densely packed
with impossibly tall, impossibly ancient
trees, its 10,000 acres contain 7 percent of
all old-growth redwoods in the world.
Take a drive along Howland Hill Road,
an old stagecoach trail that cuts through
the park. Its been described as hiking in a
car and one of the best redwood drives
anywhere. Be prepared for anything from
a smooth ride to a juddery succession of
potholes, depending on how recently its

JOSEPH S. GIACALONE/SHUTTERSTOCK; JAIRO RENE LEIVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

DEL NORTE COAST REDWOODS
State Park, top; Battery Point
Lighthouse in Crescent City, below.
along with 37 miles of rugged, wave-bat-
tered coastline and great shing.
The county boasts only one incorporated
cityCrescent City, pop. 7,600and even
that has tenuous footing in this wild land.
Much of the city was destroyed by a
tsunami in 1964, and today one of its most
popular attractions is the Tsunami Histor-
ical Walk, with eight sites within easy
walking distance of downtown.
Del Nortes crown jewel is Jedediah
Smith Redwoods State Park, just a few miles
inland from Crescent City. There youll nd
more old-growth redwoods per acre than
been resurfaced.
Lighthouse bus make a beeline for the
Battery Point Lighthouse, which has been in
operation since before the Civil War. You
can only get there at low tide, so be sure to
check the timetables to make sure you have
enough time to get back.
Be aware that the county name is not
pronounced as you would expect. Its Del
Nort, not the normal Spanish pronuncia-
tion of Del Nor-tay. Its because the area
was originally settled by dairy farmers
from the Azore Islands, who used the
Portuguese pronunciation.

146 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 HUMBOLDT COUNTY
Land of tall trees and craft beer
HUMBOLDT COUNTY IS FAMOUS the
EXPLORE, world over for its cloud-scraping forests,
IMBIBE, but theres plenty else to do while you give
your neck a rest from all that craning.
INDULGE, You might, for example, investigate the
ENJOY! regions fascination with a certain green
Eureka-Humboldt bud. No, not that one. Humboldt might be as
Visitors Bureau renowned for cannabis cultivation as Napa
redwoods.info is for Cabernet, but that crop is mostly for
export. The bud that obsesses Humboldters
these days is the hop.
LOST COAST LIGTHOUSE, top; Fern Canyon
hike, below; Chieftan in the bay and Carson
Mansion in the background, bottom. Brewpubs & Cider Presses
With ve destination-worthy brewpubs
and microbreweries within 10 miles of
Eureka, Humboldt has become a mecca for
lovers of craft beer. Some venues sit atop
blus with riverine views, others operate
out of hipster industrial parks.
148 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY PETER WATTS
From Humboldt Brewing Co.s Great
White Beer to the Redwood Curtain
Brewing Co.s hop-crazy Space Oddity
Double India Pale Ale, theres a pint for
every palate. If ciders more your taste, the
Humboldt Cider Co. oers refreshing
organic brews made exclusively from Hum-
boldt County apples.
Chocolate & Oysters
In a little plant in downtown Eureka, two
former woodworkers, Adam Dick and
Dustin Taylor, produce some of the nations
most well-regarded chocolate at Dick Taylor
Craft Chocolate. Roasting, rening and
conching raw cacao into a silky nished
product, its good every time, according to
Sandra Boynton, author of Chocolate: The
Consuming Passion.
Humboldt Bays clean water, muscular
tides and temperate climate make it a para-
dise for oysters. Roughly 70 percent of all
California oysters come from its chilly
water, and you can taste them fresh out of
the bay while hopping among a handful of
oyster bars in Eurekas waterfront Old
Town. And if thats still not fresh enough
for you, you can go out onto the water and
harvest your own on a tour organized by the
HUMBOLDT COUNTY CVB
Humboldt Bay Tourism Center in Eureka.
Oh, and if its that other little green bud
that interests you, note that Californians
recently voted to legalize it for recre-
ational use.
HIGH SIERRA
Living the high life in the Range of Light

BY JOHN FLINN
TOP CITIES
South Lake Tahoe, Truckee, Tahoe City, Bishop,

T
Mammoth Lakes, Oakhurst, Madera he Range of Light was John Muirs pet name for his
beloved Sierra Nevada. Its not just the ethereal lumi-
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY
Reno-Tahoe International Airport (RNO),
nosity of the glacially polished granite that drew the
3 miles from Reno, Nevada city center renowned naturalistand continues to draw peopleto the Sierra
again and again. Its the pristine lakes and rivers, the dramatic
TOURISM WEBSITES
hiking and biking trails, the contrast between the green meadows
travelyosemite.com
visitinglaketahoe.com
and stony battlements.
tahoesouth.com The Sierra Nevada may be one of the highest and most majestic
yosemitethisyear.com mountain ranges in North America, but its also one of the most
visitmammoth.com
accessible and user-friendly. Stretching 400 miles from north to

POPULATION
south, and about 70 from east to west, its crossed by seven high- TOBKATRINA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: DELAWARE NORTH

600,000 waysfour of them open all yearand encompasses everything

from Lake Tahoewhere you might nd yourself crowding
shoulder-to-shoulder around a boisterous craps tableto remote
canyons in Yosemite or Kings Canyon national parks where you can
spend a silent and solitary afternoon watching Muirs favorite bird,
the water ouzel, plunge into waterfalls and cascades.
In a state with no shortage of superlatives, the region has more
than its share: It can boast the worlds oldest tree, the worlds most
HIGH massive tree, the Old Wests largest ghost town, the nations highest
SIERRA
waterfall anduntil Alaska came along and rewrote the record
booksthe nations highest peak.

150 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 The range is home to three national
parks, 15 state parks, two national monu-
ments and 20 ocially designated
wilderness areas. Hikers get itchy feet at the
mere mention of its celebrated walking
paths: the John Muir Trail; the Tahoe Rim
Trail; the Pacic Crest Trail; the Tahoe-
Yosemite Trail. At the drop of winters rst
snowake, skiers begin making plans for
the three premier ski resorts on Americas
West Coast: Squaw Valley (site of the 1960
Winter Olympics), Heavenly and Mammoth
Mountain. Streams rushing down the
ranges sheer east slope into the Owens
Valley are renowned for their y shing.
Geographically speaking, the mountain
range is pretty much one big chunk of
granite tilted like a badly placed brick in a
MUST
cobblestone street: Its gently sloped on the
SEE,
west side and quite steep on the east, lower DO
in the north and higher in the south. Keep
that in mind when choosing a hiking trail:
for an easier amble, look to the north and
west; for a challenging ascent, head south
and east. The Wild, Wild West Bodie, possibly the
Old Wests most notorious mining town, now
City & Town exists in a state of arrested decay on a high,
windswept plain northeast of Yosemite. Its one of
Now connected by gondola to the Heavenly
Americas most extensive ghost towns.
ski resort, the bustling town of South Lake
www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=509
Tahoe, located on the lakeshore and the
Mountain Light The late adventure photog-
rapher Galen Rowell was the Ansel Adams of the
Kodachrome era. Stop by his Mountain Light
gallery in Bishop to see mountain images both
iconic and unusual.
mountainlight.com

Climbing Half Dome The hardest part of

hiking to the top of Yosemites Half Dome might
not be the mile of elevation gain or the vertiginous
metal cables covering the last 400 feet: Its
scoring the coveted, mandatory permit. Only 300
per day are given out, and theyre issued via an
online lottery.
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/hdpermits.htm

Biggest Tree Tree-huggers, dont bother

trying to wrap your arms around the General
Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park. With a cir-
cumference of 102 feet, the giant sequoia is the
largest known tree on the planet. While not quite
as tall as its coastal cousins, its staggering girth
SPECIAL more than makes up for it.
EVENTS 2017 nps.gov/seki/naturescience/sherman.htm

Long Live Mono Lake Set in a brooding,

LIGHTS ON THE LAKE, held each Fourth of July at South Lake Tahoe, is the largest volcanic, Tolkienesque landscape, Mono Lake is
synchronized fireworks show west of the Mississippi. July 4 tahoesouth.com one of the most otherworldly sights in California,
with spiky tufa towers rising out of an alkaline
With past participants such as Michael Jordan, Charles Barkley and John Elway, South Lake lake. Explore it by kayak or canoe, or take a
Tahoes AMERICAN CENTURY GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP has been called the Super Bowl guided naturalist walk along the shoreline.
of Celebrity Sports. July 19-24 tahoecelebritygolf.com monolake.org
calderakayak.com
The LONE PINE FILM FESTIVAL highlights the astounding number of Hollywood westerns
and other movies filmed in and around this tiny Owens Valley town, from 1925s Riders of the CANOEING beneath the Sierra ramparts,
Purple Sage to 2008s Ironman. Oct. 5-8 lonepinefilmfestival.org opposite; cross-country skiing in Yosemite,
above left.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 151
 Nevada border, has seen an injection of
energy and interest in recent years, with
new restaurants, shops and galleries.
With a large inventory of hotel rooms and
a cluster of hotel-casinos just a few steps
over the border, its a good bet for inex-
pensive lodging. In Truckee, a handsome
old railroad and lumber town between
Donner Pass and Squaw Valley, a collec-
tion of Old West historic buildings along
Commercial Row now houses busy
restaurants and bars, some adorned with
portraits of gunslingers and desperadoes.
Farther south, sprawling Bishop sports the
Owens Valleys most extensive collection
of lodging, dining and resupply outlets.

The Great Outdoors

Just a few hours drive from San Fran-
DRIVE cisco or Los Angeles, the Sierra Nevada
TOUR has been Californias outdoor playground

BILL45/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MLLEJULES/SHUTTERSTOCK; MONO COUNTY TOURISM; MARC VENEMA/SHUTTERSTOCK

almost since the arrival of the original
49ers. In Yosemite Valley, spectators with
telescopes watch the progress of
climbers inching their way up the impos-
sibly sheer granite walls. Tempted to try
it? Sign up for an introductory class at the
Yosemite Mountaineering Schoolor at
least treat yourself to a Go Climb a Rock
T-shirt. With some of the most reliably
sunny summer weather of any major
mountain range, the High Sierra is a
hikers paradise, from easy day walks in
the Desolation Wilderness to chal-
Highway 120 is a magical mystery tour through the heart of Yosemite National
lenging, multi-week journeys through
Parks exquisite high country. From the handsome old mining town of GROVELAND,
Kings Canyon and Sequoia national
follow 120 east into the park (HETCH HETCHY, the fraternal twin of Yosemite Valley
parks. Skiers have their choice of world-
that was dammed to provide San Franciscos water supply, is a short side trip) past class venues, from beginner-friendly
the TUOLUMNE GROVE of giant sequoias and up into the rarified alpine world. Pull
Granlibakken to the double-diamond
over at OLMSTED POINT to view HALF DOME from an angle youve never seen
chutes of Squaw Valley and Heavenly. In
before. Youll traverse TUOLUMNE MEADOWS, the jumping-off point for some of
summer, many of the resortsparticu-
Yosemites finest hiking trails, and cross 9,943-foot TIOGA PASS before descending
larly Northstar and Mammothconvert
three-quarters of a vertical mile to shimmering MONO LAKE.
their lifts and gondolas to carry moun-
tain bikes.

152 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Heritage & Culture
Native Americans, pioneer emigrants and
gold miners all left their marks on the
High Sierraoften literally. At Grinding
Rock State Historic Park near the town of
Twain Harte, Miwok Indians once ground
acorns on an outcrop of marbleized lime-
stone. The 1,185 mortar holes they left
behind constitute the largest such collec-
tion in North America. In the Hope Valley,
just south of Lake Tahoe, you can still see
ruts in the rocks left by the covered
wagons of settlers on the Emigrant Trail.
The shafts of thousands of abandoned
mines pockmark the High Sierra. One of
the best places to see one is the Great
Sierra Mine, a short but steep hike from
Tioga Pass in Yosemite. Youll find the
INSIDERS
remains of old miners cabins, but exercise
TIP
care around the shafts, several of which
remain open and unfenced. The food choices at the TIOGA
GAS MART MOBILE STATION
Family Fun outside Lee Vining go far
If the kids arent yet ready for full-on beyond Corn Nuts and SLIM
camping, Lake Tahoe has two old-timey JIMS. Lobster taquitos, wild
resorts with knotty-pine cabins scattered in buffalo meatloaf and jambalaya,
the trees near the lakeshore, bike and among other things, feature on
paddleboat rentals and ice cream parlors. the rotating menu at one of the
Camp Richardson is on the west shore, near most celebrated eateries in this
Tahoe City; Zephyr Cove is on the south part of California.
shore, just over the border in Nevada. whoanelliedeli.com
camprichardson.com zephyrcove.com
OVERLOOKING THE VALLEY toward Half
Dome, Yosemite National Park, opposite;
Zephyr Cove, Lake Tahoe, above; shing among
Mono Lakes autumn colors, left; classic ski
mural in Truckee, below.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 153
 MAMMOTH LAKES
Super-sized fun for all seasons
TWO HOURS NORTH of Mount Whitney,
HIKE, FISH, the Continental United States highest point,
GOLF, SKI! and only 45 minutes from Yosemites east
entrance, the Mammoth Lakes region is an epi-
Mammoth Lakes center for outdoor activities throughout the year.
Visitor Information
visitmammoth.com Summer Fun
Up in the hills and meadows of the Eastern
Mammoth Mountain Sierra mountain range, hikers and bikers can
Skiing & more explore the extensive Mammoth Lakes Trail
mammothmountain.com System, whether it be for rugged multi-day
junemountain.com adventures or a gentle walk through a park.
Golfers enjoy extra-long drives in the high
elevations of Sierra Star and Snowcreek Golf
Courses. The Mammoth Lakes area is well
known for shing, so much so, that many
local motels feature sh-cleaning facilities.
Fly shing in streams, and lure-based
shing in lakes (including Convict, Crowley
154 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY BILL FINK
and several lakes in Mammoth Lakes Basin)
gives everyone a chance to try their specialty
or pick up a new skill. The full grand slam
of troutrainbow, brook, brown and
goldenawait your arrival. Or you can skip
the shing, and simply paddle a kayak,
canoe or stand-up paddle board through the
lakes and take in the scenery, or even try out
a oating historical tour of Mono Lake.
Explore the wonders of geology at Devils
Postpile National Monument and gaze at its
towering basalt columns, then cool o in
the spray of the hundred-foot-tall Rainbow
Falls just downstream. Summer is also fes-
tival time, the calendar lled with music
events and food and drink gatherings,
including the combination of blues and
brews for Mammoths Festival of Beers and
Bluesapalooza each August.
 FLY FISHING AT MAMMOTH LAKES,
opposite; winter ski and board fun at
Mammoth Mountain, right; Mammoth
Lakes is mountain bike heaven, bottom.

Winter Sports
As the name suggests, Mammoth Mountain
ski resort is gigantic, with terrain
descending from multiple peaks providing
runs suitable for all levels of skiers. The
resort creates more than a dozen terrain
parks for snowboarders, and hosts regular
competitions for those who just want to
watch. Tamarack Ski Center and the Mam-
moth Lakes Nordic Trail System are
destinations for cross-country ski enthusi-
asts. For non-skiers, Mammoth Lakes also
connects visitors with dogsled rides, snow-
mobiling, snowshoe tours, fat-tire snow
biking and even snowcat rides to scenic
picnic spots. Small kids too can come to
enjoy Mammoths tubing park, festive
winter parades with mascot Woolly or a
scenic gondola ride. June Mountain, a 20-
mile drive from Mammoth Lakes, is a
laid-back location for downhill fun (and
kids 12 and under ski for free!). If its too
cold outside, check out Mammoth Rock n
Bowl with its bowling lanes, golf simulator,
NATALIEJEAN/SHUTTERSTOCK; MINARET PHOTOS. OPPOSITE; MAMMOTH COUNTY TOURISM

bar and restaurant, or maybe even partake

in the Eastern Sierra Brewery Tour of three
local microbreweries.
Spring Activities
Often considered just a shoulder season
between skiing and shing, spring around
Mammoth Lakes oers great deals on
lodging and activities for those looking for
some late-season sunny skiing (Mammoth
Mountain often stays open past Memorial
Day), or some early biking and shing.
Some people try for the spring triathlon
of skiing, biking and shing in a single day.
Spring is also a good time for birding, when
visitors can see many of the 300 species of
local and migratory birds that have been
spotted in the area, including the horde of
50,000 California gulls nesting at Mono
Lake each year.
Fall Colors
Fall foliage is a treat for the eyes around
Mammoth Lakes. Enjoy hiking through the
colors in the crisp fall air on the Mammoth
Rock Trail or the Heart Lake Trail, or even
stay for a couple of days amidst the trees at
the Sherwin Creek Campground. Go for a back in time and join a multi-day horseback
drive around winding mountain roads of the ride down from the hills. For a spooky Hal-
June Lake Loop to see the spectacular colors loween, or any quiet day, visit the ghost
in groves of aspens and cottonwood trees town within Bodie State Park, the aban-
below towering pine forests. You can soar doned remnants of a gold mining settlement
above the colors on helicopter tours. Or go about 60 miles north.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 155
LAKE TAHOE SOUTH SHORE
Indoor and outdoor mountain playground
FROM SERENE VIEWS over mirror-at
HIKE, PLAY, morning waters of Lake Tahoe and the gentle
EAT, DANCE! footfall of hikers on pine needle-covered
forest paths, to the jangle of slot machines
Visitor Information
and the pumping bass of a casino dance club,
tahoesouth.com
Lake Tahoe South Shore (what the marketers
skiheavenly.com
call Tahoe South) is a destination hosting a
biketahoe.org
unique mix of wilderness and wild-ness, an
americancentury
indoor and outdoor playground with equal
championship.com
measures of altitude and attitude. Visitors
fs.usda.gov/ltbmu can follow their desires to nd peace and
kirkwood.com solitude on back country hikes or ski runs, or
sierraattahoe.com dive into a swirling social scene at a packed
hotelbecket.com summer beach, holler at a crowded craps
edgewoodtahoe.com table or slurp microbrews at an aprs ski bar
zalanta.com complete with go-go dancers. Its dealers
choice on the South Shore. And South Lake is
continuing its renaissance with ongoing
openings and renovations of hotels, restau-
rants and retail spaces across the area.
156 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY BILL FINK
Summer
Summer activity around the South Shore is
understandably focused on the beautiful
waters of spectacular Lake Tahoe. Beaches
are packed with summer revelers, while the
waters are lled with every type of oating
vessel imaginablefrom kayaks and stand-
up paddle boards to small sailboats, shing
cruisers, water-ski boats, luxury cruising
vessels and even the 500-passenger paddle-
wheel ship M.S. Dixie II that runs daily
Emerald Bay sightseeing trips and sunset
dinner cruises.
For fun out of the water, the South Shore
is a hikers paradise with journeys ranging
from multi-day treks into the Desolation
Wilderness and a steep days climb up to
the awe-inspiring views of Mount Tallac, to
relaxed family strolls in at meadows at
Camp Richardson and around the Tallac
 PADDLE BOARDING ON LAKE TAHOE,
opposite; kayaking on the lake, right; dining in
Harveys Lake Tahoe Hotel and Casino, below.

Historic Site or just lazing at the beach.

Cyclists can take advantage of a network of
road rides and mountain paths with every-
thing from a scenic roll in the woods to
treacherous, teeth-rattling mountain
descents. The ambitious can even bike the
entire 72-mile circumference of Lake
Tahoe, while the cautious can pedal bike
paths close to town and teens can stunt-
ride at the Bijou Bike Park. Golfers can
check out several area courses, including
the lakeside Edgewood Tahoe Golf Course
(home of the popular American Century
celebrity golf tournament in July) and stay
in their new 154-room Lodge at Edgewood
opening the summer of 2017.
Heavenly Mountain Resorts on-moun-
tain Epic Discovery adventure center
features a gravity-powered Mountain Outside the casinos, the main strip of
Coaster, long zip lines, an educational town boasts shopping opportunities with
forest canopy tour and a kids ropes course, continued new openings in the Chateau at
as well as a network of hiking trails the Village, with name-brand boutiques as
branching o from their gondola (which is well as quirky local ski shops and crafts
worth a sightseeing ride even if you never stores along the shores. Dining can be any-
step o it) and new guided 4x4 tours to fur- thing from sushi to pizza and gourmet
ther explore the mountain. cuisineoered at casual local diners (like
TOPSELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK; HARVEYS HOTEL AND CASINO. OPPOSITE: TOPSELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK

the recently opened Ace High Saloon and

Winter
Lake Tahoe South Shore boasts three world-
class ski resorts: Heavenly, Kirkwood and
Sierra-at-Tahoe. Heavenly is an expansive
and popular mountain spanning two
states, with contrasting views of the blue
Tahoe waters and the high-prairie Nevada
countryside. The Heavenly Gondola drops
visitors right into the action in the center
of the city. Heavenlys Tamarack Lodge has
an aprs ski scene with pumping music,
multiple bars and go-go dancers gyrating to
keep themselves (and the viewers) warm.
Kirkwood, about a 45-minute drive from
town, is known for its o-piste terrain,
deep snow and relaxed vibe. Sierra-at-
Tahoe is a medium-sized family-oriented
ski resort (located on Highway 50 between
South Lake Tahoe and Sacramento) oering
a newly expanded beginner area for 2017.
24/7/365
When the day of outdoor activity is done, the
second shift of fun is just beginning around
South Lake Tahoe. On the Nevada side of the
border, high-rise casinos rock with the
sounds and energy of non-stop gambling.
Gamers get recharged in an array of restau-
rants and buets, as well as at comedy
shows and live music events at Harveys
Summer Concert Series and the Hard Rock
Hotel, among others. Packed bars and clubs
give this indoor playground a Vegas feel,
albeit at 6200 feet above sea level.
Smokehouse)to luxury lakeside restau-
rants. To quench your thirst, the South Lake
Brewing Company will open in early 2017
to add to the local beer options provided by
recent additions Sidellis Brewery, Cold
Water Brewery and Desolation Brewery at
Basecamp Hotel. When you nally decide
to take a rest, South Lake Tahoe oers a vast
array of lodging options, with new hotels
for 2017 including the pet-friendly bou-
tique Hotel Becket, condo-rentals at
Zalanta Resort at the Village and the newly
renovated Inn by The Lake.
Regardless of your choice of food,
activity or season, Lake Tahoe South Shore
is a spot to satisfy any sort of appetite
youll only be hungry for another trip.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 157
GOLD COUNTRY
Strike it rich with adventure,
history and wine

BY JOHN FLINN
TOP CITIES
Sacramento, Sonora, Placerville, Auburn, Downieville,
Sutter Creek, Nevada City, Jackson, Columbia, Murphys,
Jamestown, Angels Camp

I
t was a ash in the pan that changed the history of Cali-
fornia, and of the world. The sparkling nugget that
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY
Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 13 miles (21 km) caught the eye of James W. Marshall as he tended a
from the city center sawmill in the Sierra Nevada foothills in January 1848 set o
a gold rush that drew more than 300,000 would-be prospec-
TOURISM WEBSITES
tors the following year from the eastern U.S., South America,
discovergold.org
visit-eldorado.com Europe, even China. They were known as the 49ers.
visitsacramento.com Overnight, the Gold Rush transformed San Francisco from
a sleepy port to a rollicking city and persuaded Congress to
POPULATION
put Californiawrested from Mexico by war just two years
650,000
earlieron the fast track to statehood. Most of the gold was
found in a 300-mile belt that extended through the Sierra
foothills, from Downieville in the north to Coarsegold in the
south. Miners called it the Mother Lode.
In a state working tirelessly to invent the future, the Gold
Country remains the most visible manifestation of its not-
so-distant past, with towns sporting wood-plank sidewalks,
swinging saloon doors, hitching posts and red-brick build-
GOLD ings. (Youll quickly discover that the best preserved of these
COUNTRY
belonged to Wells Fargo and, oddly, the Independent Order
of Odd Fellows.)

160 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017 MUST
SEE,
Nearly three dozen El Dorado County wineries participate in TALES FROM THE CELLAR, DO
a blend of wine tasting, live music, food and literary-themed events. April 22-23 and 29-30
passporteldorado.com

Wager on a jumping frog as Mark Twains most beloved story is commemorated each year
at the CALAVERAS COUNTY FAIR & JUMPING FROG JUBILEE in Angels Camp.
May 18-21 frogtown.org
Sacramentos legendary Memorial Day weekend jazz festival is now the SACRAMENTO
MUSIC FESTIVAL, with a broadened program that includes everything from big-band
music to zydeco, along with plenty of jazz in its varied traditions. May 26-29
sacmusicfest.com
ANGELS CAMP returns to the days of Samuel Clemons for the Mark Twain Wild West
Fest, with period costumes, blacksmithing and saloon dancing girls. Oct. 21
AMY THE NURSE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; JAKE GUILD/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; MARC VENEMA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ANDRIY BLOKHIN/SHUTTERSTOCK
All Aboard Rail bus will want to lay tracks
for the California State Railroad Museum, one of
the best of its kind in the nation. Its located in Old
Sacramento, which preserves a district of the state
capital pretty much as it looked in Gold Rush days.
csrmf.org
Eureka! Pan for nuggets at Marshall Gold
Discovery State Historic Park, where Californias
gold rush began.

marktwainwildwestfest.com www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=484
Bottoms Up Sample rich, jammy Zinfandels
and other wines without the crowds at dozens of
wineries in Californias up-and-coming wine
regionAmador, El Dorado and Calaveras counties.
TOWER BRIDGE across the discovercaliforniawines.com/
Sacramento River in discover-california/sierra-foothills
Sacramento, opposite;
shoppers in the farmers Theres an Apple for That Allow the
aroma of freshly baked apple pies, fritters,
market, Nevada City, left;
turnovers and strudel to lure you o Highway 50
dancing at the Sacramento
east of Placerville to a place called Apple Hill. More
Music Festival, below; the
than 50 growers participate in a celebration of the
spot of the infamous
apple harvestand of autumn itselfwith cider,
Hangmans Tree in
hayrides, pumpkin patches, hay mazes and other
Placerville, bottom right.
family fun. It runs from Labor Day to Christmas.
applehill.com
Star Tracks Ride Hollywoods favorite steam
train at Railtown 1897 State Historic Park, near
Jamestown. Its appeared in everything from High
Noon to Petticoat Junction.
railtown1897.org/index.php/train-rides

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 161
 Today you can still pan for goldits
often said theres more left in the ground
than the original 49ers ever took outbut
you can also raft some of Californias froth-
iest rivers, explore caverns and sample
Chardonnay and Syrah in uncrowded,
up-and-coming wineries.

City & Town

Sacramento was the terminus of the
Transcontinental Railroadfrom there,
passengers completed their journey to
San Francisco by ferry and bargeand the
city still plays a vital role as the jumping-
off point for exploring the Gold Country.
Since the arrival of the 49ers, the small
towns of the Gold Country proper have
DRIVE morphed through several distinct stages,
TOUR

NAVIGATING A TOUR
through the Gold Country
couldnt be easier: HIGHWAY JASPERDO/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; DOLCE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR. OPPOSITE: MARC VENEMA/SHUTTERSTOCK

49named for the original

49erstraverses the entire
region. It stretches nearly
300 miles through the
Sierra foothills, from
DOWNIEVILLE in the north
to OAKHURST in the south,
linking all the Gold
Countrys major towns and
sights. Allow at least two
days for the journey. Start
with a mountain-biking excursion in DOWNIEVILLE, poke around the
galleries and antique shops of NEVADA CITY and drop by the site where
Marshall and Sutter found those first sparkling nuggets in COLOMA.
SUTTER CREEK, with a bounty of inviting B&Bs and restaurants serving
the local wine, is a good place to spend the night. On your second day,
explore ANGELS CAMPperhaps pausing to wager on a frog if its
jumping season (the third week in May)try your hand at panning for
gold at COLUMBIA STATE HISTORIC PARK and take a ride on the historic
steam train in JAMESTOWNS RAILTOWN 1897 STATE HISTORIC PARK.

162 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
from rough-and-tumble boomtowns, to
somnolent hamlets, to destinations for
biker rallies, to, finally, genteel venues for
weekend getaways sporting comfortable
B&Bs, sophisticated restaurants, antique
stores and nearby wineries. Among the
most popular are Sutter Creek, Nevada
City and Murphys. The two largest towns
of the Sierra foothillsSonora and
Placervilleoffer all this, plus a large
selection of motels, restaurants and shops
in all price categories.
The Great Outdoors
From May to mid October, the American
River is Californias top venue for white-
water rafting. The river ow is controlled
by releases from upstream reservoirs, so
rafters are assured of good conditions. Out-
tters oer both half-day and full-day trips
through Class III whitewater, ending up at
Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park
or Folsom Lake. In the northern Sierra, the
town of Downieville has become a center
for mountain biking. Local bike shops oer
rentals and shuttles on old mining roads
and single tracks from the casual to the
technical, including a 15-mile ride with a
4,000-foot descent. Houseboaters ock to
vast, sprawling Gold Country reservoirs
such as New Melones Lake, Don Pedro Lake
and Lake McClure.
THE GOLD COUNTRY has many historic
buildings, including the Emporium in
Jamestown, opposite, and this red brick
gem in Nevada City, above; kayaking on the
American River, El Dorado County, left.
INSIDERS
TIP
The HANGTOWN FRY, a curious
concoction of oysters, bacon and
eggs, was allegedly born in 1849
when a prospector tossed a satchel
full of gold dust onto the bar in
the EL DORADO HOTEL in
Placervillethen known as
Hangtownand demanded the
most expensive meal in the house.
They still serve the dish in town
at the BUTTERCUP PANTRY.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 163
CENTRAL VALLEY
Californias grand garden

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

TOP CITIES
Modesto, Fresno, Bakersfield, Davis, Stockton, Fairfield,

T
Merced, Visalia, Madera, Vacaville, Manteca, Lodi his fertile green strip in the center of California is considered by

PIA BENZER/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE:DAVID LITMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK; JWAYNE HSIEH/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

many to be the greatest garden in the world. The 400-mile-long
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS Central Valley, wedged between the Sierra Nevada range and the
Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 80 miles
coastal mountains, is lled with farms, orchards and vineyards growing
(129 km) from Modesto, 172 miles (277 km) from Fresno
everything from almonds to peaches to grapes. Youve likely beneted
San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 94 miles from the region even if you havent visited before, as it supplies as much
(151 km) from Modesto, 186 miles (299 km) from Fresno as 45 percent of the food eaten in the United States. Californias Central
Valley contains thousands of acres of land under cultivation and small
Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), 118 miles
(190 km) from Bakersfield farming communities that seem to have been frozen in time.
The larger cities of the Central Valley (Modesto, Fresno and Bakers-
TOURISM WEBSITE eld), still have a small-town friendliness that encourages visitors to
visitcentralvalley.com
slow down and nd out that theres more going on beyond the farmland.
POPULATION From the quiet, northernmost towns of Orland, Yuba City and Davis to
4,858,000 Visalia, Tulare and Maricopa at the southern end of the valley, its easy
to feel at home and see what some call the Other California.
Travelers using Interstate 5 to get through the Central Valley may
believe the agricultural region is nothing more than a sleepy little
farming area, but dont speed by and discount the wealth of spectacular
scenery, opportunities for outdoor recreation, highlights of California
history and funky roadside diners. The best way to discover the area on
a leisurely itinerary is by taking Highway 99, which feels more like a back
CENTRAL
VALLEY road. Cities and towns are clustered along the route, giving you a chance
to pull o and explore any time you want.

164 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 DRIVE
TOUR MUST
SEE,
It may be tempting to cover DO
the Central Valley by zooming
along on Interstate 5, but
instead, take the slower
HIGHWAY 99often referred Old Sacramento Underground Walk
along Sacramentos underground sidewalks and see
to as Californias Main Street,
doors and windows to buildings from old Sacramento
and the very same road the before the streets were raised to prevent ooding.
fictional Joad family traveled The Gold Rush may have made the city rich, but
in The Grapes of Wrath. Start more than 30 inches of rain in the winter of 1861
in oil-town BAKERSFIELD and submerged Sacramento for three months.

head north toward FRESNO,

sachistorymuseum.org
MERCED and MODESTO. As Bakerseld Sound Get to know the
you pass from the San distinctive country music style known as the
Joaquin Valley into the Bakerseld Sound, popularized by Buck Owens and
Merle Haggard in one of the best places to hear it:
Sacramento River Delta, take
Buck Owens Crystal Palace in Bakerseld.
a jog over to Interstate 5 to pass to the west of Sacramento and into
buckowens.com
Yolo, Colusa and Glenn counties at the north end of the great
Central Valley. Wine Tasting Pay a visit to one of the 85
wineries in Lodi, with more than 100 varieties in
production, and producing more than 40 percent of
the states premium Zinfandel.
lodiwine.com

Middle Mountains Hike the Sutter Buttes,

remnants of an ancient volcano and known as the
worlds smallest mountain range.
sutterbutteslandtrust.org

Old Town Wander through the delta town of

Locke, the only U.S. town built exclusively by the
Chinese for the Chinese.
locketown.com

A STATELY OAK TREE minds a vineyard

in the Central Valley, opposite; downtown
Faireld, above; workers harvest
strawberries in the Salinas Valley, left.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 165
 FORESTIERE GARDENS, below; Lucas Winery, Lodi, right.
INSIDERS
TIP
Wander through the underground gardens in the hand-built network
of FORESTIERE GARDENS underground rooms, courtyards and
passageways. undergroundgardens.com
166 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Two river valleysthe Sacramento and
San Joaquindominate the majority of the
region, and the waterways serve as opportu-
nities for sport (shing, rafting, waterskiing)
and bird migration rest stops, as well as an
essential element of farming. In the hot
summer months, the areas rivers and lakes
help residents and tourists alike cool o, and
a shady swimming hole is an ideal spot to
spend a weekend.
Swing by one of the roadside produce
stands for the best souvenirs in the Central
Valley. Be sure to enjoy your prizes before
you return home, because the edible
treasure of the region is best sampled fresh.
City & Town LISA BRETTSCHNEIDER/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; LODI CVB.
College-town Davis has more bikes per
capita than any U.S. city. Modesto and its
hot rods were the stars of American Graf-
tiand auto fans still ock to the valley
city. Fresnos architectural history includes
brick warehouses along the Santa Fe rail-
road tracks and the 1928 Pantages Theatre.
The Great Outdoors
A sprawling web of rivers twists through
the Central Valleyfrom the Sacramento to
 SPECIAL
EVENTS 2017

MARCH MEET March 2-5, Bakersfield famosoraceway.com

ROGUE PERFORMANCE FESTIVAL March 2-11, Fresno roguefestival.com

PICNIC DAY April 22, Davis picnicday.ucdavis.edu

ZINFEST WINE FESTIVAL May 12-14, Lodi zinfest.com

AMERICAN GRAFFITI CAR SHOW & FESTIVAL June 9-11, Modesto americangraffitifestival.com

VILLAGE FEST Sept. 9, Bakersfield bakersfieldvillagefest.com

FESTIVAL OF ROSES Sept. 9, Wasco ci.wasco.ca.us

BIG FRESNO FAIR Oct. 4-15, Fresno fresnofair.com

BRUBECK FESTIVAL Oct. 20-21, Stockton pacific.edu/Brubeck-Institute.html

the San Joaquin to the Feather. The best
place to enjoy river life is in the Sacra- SANDHILL CRANE FESTIVAL Nov. 3-5, Lodi cranefestival.com
mento Delta, with lush wetlands among
vast orchards. The Sutter Buttesconsid-
ered the worlds smallest mountain
rangerise above the at valley at its
northernmost point.

Heritage & Culture

Agriculture has drawn a diverse group of
people to the Central Valley over the years,
including migrant workers from Latin
America, Dust Bowl-era farmers and enter-
taining country music masters. Visitors are
always welcome to join regional celebra-
tions, from harvest days to Basque festivals
to Portuguese festascomplete with
bloodless bullghts.

Family Fun
Families who love the ourdoors and wide-
open spaces will nd plenty to do in the
Central Valley. Escape the summer heat by
tubing down the Sacramento River, discover
the amazing Forestiere Underground Gar-
dens in Fresno, wander through the historic
delta town of Locke, or gawk at restored mil-
itary aircraft at the Castle Air Museum.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 167
2017 Guide to California.qxp_Layout 1 2017-01-30 6:19 PM Page 168
KERN COUNTY
A vast outdoor playground with a few surprises
SPANNING THE SOUTHERN END of
PADDLE, FISH, the fertile Central Valley, Kern County can
SEE A GHOST resemble the Plains states more than pop-
ular images of California. The third-largest
TOWN county by area stretches from the coastal
Kern County Visitor mountains, over the Sierra range and into
Information the Mojave Desert, consisting mostly of
visitkern.com farms and small towns dependent on oil
elds and the military. But in their midst lie
some of Californias nest outdoor recre-
WHISKEY FLAT DAYS in Kernville, above;
Red Rock Canyon on I-14 in the Mojave ation opportunities.
Desert, below. Almost 43 percent of the countys esti-
mated 886,507 residents live in Bakerseld,
known for the roots-oriented Bakerseld
Sound genre of country music embraced by
Buck Owens, Merle Haggard and Dwight
Yoakam. The city is also justly proud of its
dozens of parks and the diversity of museums.
The scenic Kern River has drawn outdoor
enthusiasts to this region for decades. The
deep Kern Canyon, northeast of Bakerseld, is
a hot spot for trout shing, boating, kayaking,
riverboarding and some of Californias most
challenging whitewater rafting. Camping,
hiking and picnicking are also popular.
Ghost-town acionados stop at Silver
City on the way, even though its actually a
collection of more than 20 historic build-
ings moved from surrounding mining
camps to represent a town as it might have
168 201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BY CHRISTINE DELSOL
looked after the gold veins played out. Hol-
lywood has made good use of the rustic
setting, while some toursboth guided and
self-guided are availablemake good use of
the towns ghost lore.
North of Lake Isabella, the manmade
reservoir dividing the Upper and Lower
Kern River, the valleys hub of activity is
Kernville, southern gateway to the vast
Sequoia National Forest. Here you can tour
the U.S. Department of Fish & Games sh
hatchery and book y-shing classes
through the Kern River Fly Shop. The Kern
River Brewing Companys microbrewery
provides a hefty proportion of in-town
entertainment for visitors and locals alike.
On the way southeast to Tehachapi, a
short detour reveals an engineering feat
that draws rail enthusiasts from around the LOREN KNOWLES/VISITKERN.COM. OPPOSITE: AIDAN BRADLEY
world: the Tehachapi Loop, a .73-mile spiral
on the busy Union Pacic line where
you can see longer trains crossing over
themselves. Once in Tehachapi, a railroad
museum, a budding wine trail, and the
nearby Cat House (yes, reallya preserve
for endangered felines) vie for attention,
while petroglyphs and red striations in the
desert clis and rock formations of Red
Rock Canyon State Park are a 40-minute
drive away.
INLAND EMPIRE
Discover quintessential California in this often-overlooked
region of sand and snow, deserts and mountains plus
abundant vineyards and casino action

BY LENORE GREINER

TOP CITIES
Big Bear Lake, Lake Arrowhead, Temecula, Ontario,

T
he vast 5,000 square miles of the Inland Empire deftly capture Cal-
San Bernardino, Riverside
ifornias Spanish and Native American origins, the stagecoach era
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY and the Golden Age of traveling Route 66. Here, the scenic land-
Ontario International Airport (ONT), 35 miles (56 km) scape and historic sites reect Golden State extremes: snow-capped granite
east of downtown Los Angeles, 23 miles (37 km) west peaks of the San Bernardino Mountains to the north and the San Jacinto
of San Bernardino, 16 miles (26 km) west of Riverside
range to the east fast descend into arid high deserts and, nally, to verdant
TOURISM WEBSITES vineyards and groves.
bigbear.com In the birthplace of Californias citrus industry, discover tranquil, scenic
lakearrowheadchamber.com beauty among vineyards, hiking paths or ski runs. Or partake in distinctly
visittemeculavalley.com
Californian pursuits: wine tasting, escaping to a quiet golf resort, or soaking
riversidecvb.com
in steamy hot springs. The crowds are fewer and the prices are lower than
POPULATION Lake Tahoe and Napa Valley, yet youll nd the same thrills and diversions
2.3 million in the Inland Empire.

The Great Outdoors

For year-round recreation, travelers can head into the San Bernardino Moun-
tains, to two popular alpine lakes. At Big Bear Lake, outdoor enthusiasts nd
winter alpine sports at Big Bear Mountain and Snow Summit for excellent
skiing and snowboarding. Come summertime, the lake oers watersports
lovers abundant shing, boating, kayaking and even parasailing. Lake
Arrowhead oers hiking, horseback riding, biking and ice-skating. Or
INLAND wander in the natural beauty and charming shops of the Swiss Chalet-style
EMPIRE
alpine village of Lake Arrowhead. Or simply stargaze, watch the autumn
leaves turn or the winter snowakes fall.

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 169
 MUST SPECIAL
SEE, EVENTS 2017
DO RIVERSIDE DICKENS FESTIVAL Costumed Dickens characters descend upon downtown
Riverside. Festivities include a Steampunk fashion show, a Victorian tea room with music
hall performances, parasol dueling and Mr. and Mrs. Fezziwigs Ball in full Victorian regalia.
February 25-26 dickensfest.com

Saddle Up Wine Tours This equine and

TEMECULA ROD RUN Roaring hot rods descend upon Old Town Temecula.
wine tour winds through Temeculas vineyards and
March 3-4 rodruntemecula.com
winery estates until you say Whoa at up to three
wineries for tastings.
saddleupwinetours.com RAMONA OUTDOOR PLAY Playing since 1926, this tragic romance about the Ponca
Indians is Americas longest running drama and Californias Official Outdoor Play.

Sand to Snow National Monument April 22-23, 29-30, May 6-7 ramonabowl.com
In 2016, President Obama designated our newest
national monument,154,000 acres of San TEMECULA VALLEY BALLOON & WINE FESTIVAL This festival features hot-air balloon
Bernardino National Forest and BLM land jutting rides, wine and craft beer tastings, gourmet food, live music and more on Lake Skinner.
skyward from the Sonoran desert oor to the June 2-4 tvbwf.com
11,502-foot peak of Mount San Gorgonio. This bio-
logically diverse monument encompasses wildlife LAKE ARROWHEAD ANNUAL ANTIQUE & CLASSIC WOODEN BOAT SHOW
corridors, sacred Serrano and Cahuilla tribal sites Rare antique and classic wooden boats gather in Lake Arrowhead Village.
and 30 miles of the Pacic Crest Trail. June 10-11 lakearrowhead.net
fs.fed.us/visit/sand-to-snow-national-monument
BIG BEAR LAKE & LAKE ARROWHEAD VILLAGE OKTOBERFESTS These events
University of California Riversides feature bands, beer and brats at a 7,000-foot elevation. Weekends, Sept. 9-Oct. 22
ARTSBlock A cultural anchor in downtown
bigbear.com, lakearrowhead.net
Riverside, three miles from UCRs main campus,
ARTSblock occupies adjacent historical buildings
and former department stores. The California
Museum of Photography exhibits contemporary JOURNEY GOLF COURSES 5th hole at Pechanga, previous page; Calico Ghost town,
photography and has a comprehensive collection of a former silver mining town, in San Bernardino County, below.
early cameras. The Sweeney Art Gallery acts as a lab-
oratory of experimental art. The Culver Center of the
Arts hosts lms, lectures and theatrical programs.
artsblock.ucr.edu

March Field Air Museum Cruise the

hangers and aireld amid 70 vintage aircraft,
including the worlds fastest airplane, the SR-71
Blackbird. From World War I until the era of space
exploration, more than 30,000 artifacts convey our
proud U.S. aviation history.
marchfield.org

Mission Inn Hotel & Spa This 1902

National Historic Landmark has hosted presidents
and movie stars in this ramble of Mission Revival,
Moorish and Oriental architecture, and Louis
Comfort Tiany mosaics. Its authentic, never touristy
and worth a visit. Sip a drink in the Spanish Patio
under colonnades draped with red bougainvillea.
missioninn.com

170 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

City & Town
Food and wine fans can stroll through Old
Town Temeculas historic district of 1880s
buildings while wine tasting and sampling
local fare in a friendly, Old West ambience.
Or visit Redlands, the City of Beautiful
Homes, and its opulent Victorians and Arts
and Crafts style homes of yesteryear.
North of Temecula, play in the mud or
soak in the soothing mineral waters of the
155-year-old Glen Ivy Hot Springs, dating
from early stagecoach days. Get in on the
action at the gaming tables at the Pechanga
Casino. Or soar in a hot air balloon over
Temecula Valleys 35,000-acre wine country,
TEMECULA CVB; PADAM COLE BARBER/SHUTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ETTENAEJ/SHUTTERSTOCK
DRIVE
TOUR
RIM OF THE WORLD SCENIC
BYWAY: This 107-mile scenic
drive begins on State Highway
138 just west of I-15 at the
MORMON ROCK FIRE
STATION. Travel east on 138 to
the CAJON PASS OVERLOOK
for breathtaking views, then
east to SILVERWOOD LAKE
and the Mojave River basin. 138 merges with 18 along the rim of the San
Bernardino forest and provides sweeping vistas of San Bernardino,
Redlands and the Los Angeles Basin. At BIG BEAR LAKE DAM, follow the
road around Big Bear Lake to MILL CREEK RANGER STATION. This tour
can be done in four hours.
OLD TOWN TEMECULA, left;
a hot air balloon oats over
the Temecula vineyards, below.
dotted with B&Bs and luxury resorts amid
vines and citrus groves. Afterwards, relax
with a glass of local wine on a winery por-
tico or play golf in this quiet oasis of the
California good life.
Heritage & Culture
Riverside harbors a wealth of California
history. On Magnolia Avenue, the states
INSIDERS
TIP
Drift serenely in a hot-air
balloon over the vineyards,
citrus groves and horse ranches
of Temeculas wine country,
tinged by the rising suns golden
light. SUNRISE BALLOONS first
pioneered these flights in 1975;
their capable, licensed pilots
ensure a safe float that begins
with a mimosa and ends with
cold champagne.
sunriseballoons.com
rst and oldest navel orange tree, planted in
1873, stands on the spot where Californias
multi-million-dollar citrus industry began.
Since 1880, the iconic Mission Inn has
hosted U.S. presidents and delighted trav-
elers with a Hearst Castle-like eclectic mix
of Spanish and Moorish architecture,
adorned with priceless Italian and Spanish
treasures, as a church bell tolls on the hour.
The San Bernardino Museum explores
local history by exhibiting a covered wagon
that crossed the Mojave Desert from Salt Lake
City and a Wells Fargo stagecoach. The Hall
of Anthropology showcases local native cul-
tures, the Mojave, Serrano and Gabrielino.
Within the citrus groves surrounding the
museum, the Zimmerman Citrus Kiosk
explores the areas citrus heritage.
Family Fun
The fun begins with rides on the trains and
trolleys of the Orange Empire Railway
Museum in Perris. At Toms Farm in Corona,
kids can pan for gold, mount a pony, board
the 1800s steam train, or explore a real gem
mine. In the summertime heat, take cool
water rides on the Alpine Slides twisting
curves at the Magic Mountain Recreation
Area at Big Bear Lake.
201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 171
2017 TRAVEL GUIDE TO
CALIFORNIA RESOURCES
GENERAL
INFORMATION
CALIFORNIA WELCOME CENTERS

THERE ARE SEVENTEEN OFFICIAL state Welcome Centers in 10 of the states tourism regions. Each center
POPULATION: 39,144,818 is listed by the region in which it is located. For more information, go to VisitCWC.com.
AREA: 158,693 square miles. It is approx-
imately 770 miles long from the Mexican San Diego County Central Valley
border to the Oregon border, and 250 928 North Coast Highway 710 W. 16th Street, Suite A
miles wide from the Pacific Ocean to the Oceanside 1-800-350-7873 Merced 209-724-8104
Nevada and Arizona borders. 760-721-1101
San Francisco Bay Area
TIME: California is in the Pacific Time Inland Empire Pier 39, Building B, Second Level, Unit B12
Zone (GMT minus 8 hours). The state One Mills Circle, Suite 1054 San Francisco 415-981-1280
observes daylight saving time. Ontario 909-937-3000
9 Fourth Street
TAXES: The state sales tax is 7.5%. Local
Desert Region Santa Rosa 1-800-404-7673
taxes may be as much as an additional 2.5%.
2796 Tanger Way, Suite 100
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE: For local Barstow 760-253-4782 Gold Country
numbers, dial 411; long-distance, 1103 High Street, Suite 150
1 plus area code plus 555-1212; toll-free, 56711 29 Palms Highway Auburn 530-887-2111
1-800-555-1212. Yucca Valley 760-365-5464
2085 Vine Street, Suite 105
EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE: Call 911 Orange County El Dorado Hills 916-358-3700
toll free from any public telephone to 6601 Beach Blvd.
obtain police, fire or medical assistance. Buena Park High Sierra
LIQUOR LAWS: Alcohol is sold throughout 1-800-541-3953 10065 Donner Pass Road
California. Legal drinking age is 21. Truckee 530-587-8808
Central Coast
SMOKING LAWS: You must be 18 to 333 Five Cities Drive, Suite 100 2510 Main Street
purchase tobacco products. Smoking is Pismo Beach 805-773-7924 Mammoth Lakes 760-924-5500
prohibited in all public buildings and
enclosed spaces throughout California. 1213 North Davis Road Shasta Cascade
Many cities in California have passed Salinas 831-757-8687 1699 Highway 273
ordinances prohibiting smoking in all Anderson 530-365-1180
public places. It is even illegal to smoke 2786 Seaglass Way, Space 5105
on certain beaches in Southern Oxnard 805-988-0717 2 California 96
Californiawatch for signs. Yreka 530-475-3814

QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE TO TRAVEL

GENERAL TRAVEL FESTIVALS SENIOR TRAVEL

visitcalifornia.com californiafairsandfestivals.com roadscholar.org
BEACHES festivals.com aarp.org
beachcalifornia.com FISHING SKI CONDITIONS
BORDER SERVICES wildlife.ca.gov onthesnow.com
cbp.gov fishingnetwork.net SOLO TRAVEL
BUS TRAVEL FREQUENT FLYER PROGRAMS cstn.org
greyhound.com frequentflier.com STUDENT TRAVEL
CALIFORNIA STATE GOVERNMENT webflyer.com statravel.com
ca.gov GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL SPORTS TRAVEL
CALIFORNIA NATIONAL PARKS, gaytravel.com sportstravel.com
NATIONAL FORESTS & PUBLIC LANDS gogaycalifornia.com TRANSPORTATION REGULATIONS
nps.gov/state/ca GOLF dmv.ca.gov
fs.fed.us/r5/ca.blm.gov golfcalifornia.com TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN
CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS golflink.com travelforkids.com/Funtodo/California/california.htm
www.parks.ca.gov HUNTING familyvacationcritic.com
COOKING SCHOOLS wildlife.ca.gov TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
epitourean.com/Destination/8/California.aspx RAIL TRAVEL accessnca.org/resources
ECO, ADVENTURE, OUTDOOR amtrak.com WEATHER CONDITIONS
alopexadventures.com ROAD CONDITIONS wunderground.com
infohub.com dot.ca.gov/cgi-bin/roads.cgi WOMEN TRAVELERS
adventurewomen.com
journeywoman.com

172 2 017 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
 CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAUS

Amador County Chamber of Commerce Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau San Luis Obispo County Tourism Information
& Visitors Bureau 1-800-228-2452 805-541-8000
209-223-0350 discoverlosangeles.com visitsanluisobispocounty.com
amadorcountychamber.com
Mammoth Lakes Tourism San Mateo County Convention
Anaheim/Orange County Visitor and Conven- 1-888-GO-MAMMOTH & Visitors Bureau
tion Bureau visitmammoth.com 1-800-288-4748
1-855-405-5020 smccvb.com
anaheimoc.org Marin County Convention & Visitors Bureau
415-925-2060 Santa Barbara Conference
Bakersfield Convention & Visitors Bureau visitmarin.org & Visitors Bureau
1-866-425-7353 805-966-9222
visitbakersfield.com Marina del Rey Convention & Visitors Bureau santabarbaraca.com
310-305-9545
Berkeley Convention & Visitors Bureau visitmarinadelrey.com Santa Clara Convention & Visitors Bureau
1-800-847-4823 1-800-272-6822
visitberkeley.com Mendocino County santaclara.org
310-305-9545; 1-866-466-3636
Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau visitmendocino.com Santa Cruz County Conference
1-800-345-2210 & Visitors Council
lovebeverlyhills.com Modesto Convention & Visitors Bureau 1-800-833-3494
1-888-640-8467 santacruzca.org
Buellton Visitors Bureau & Chamber of Commerce visitmodesto.com
1-800-324-3800 Santa Maria Valley Chamber of
visitbuellton.com Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau Commerce Visitor & Convention Bureau
1-888-221-1010 1-800-331-3779
Calaveras Visitors Bureau seemonterey.com santamaria.com
1-800-225-3764
visitcalaveras.org Napa Valley Destination Council Santa Monica Convention & Visitors Bureau
707-251-5895 1-800-544-5319
Central Valley Tourism Association legendarynapavalley.com santamonica.com
visitcentralvalley.com Solvang Conference & Visitors Bureau
Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau
Costa Mesa Conference & Visitor Bureau 1-888-5-NEWPORT 805-688-6144
1-888-588-9417 visitnewportbeach.com solvangusa.com
travelcostamesa.com North Lake Tahoe Visitors & Convention Bureau Sonoma County Tourism Bureau
Crescent City/Del Norte County Chamber 1-888-434-1262 707-522- 5800
of Commerce gotahoenorth.com sonomacounty.com
1-800-343-8300 Oakdale Tourism & Visitors Bureau Stockton Convention & Visitors Bureau
exploredelnorte.com 209-345-9264 1-877-778-6258
visitoakdale.com visitstockton.org
El Dorado County Visitors Authority
1-800-457-6279 Oakland Convention & Visitors Bureau Temecula Valley Convention
visit-eldorado.com 510-839-9000 & Visitors Bureau
visitoakland.org 1-888-363-2852
Eureka/Humboldt County Convention temeculacvb.com
and Visitors Bureau Palm Desert Visitors Center
1-800-346-3482 1-800-873-2428 Travel Paso Robles Alliance
redwoods.info palm-desert.org 888-988-7276
travelpaso.com
Fairfield Tourism Association Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism
707-399-2445 1-800-347-7746 Tri-Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau
visitfairfieldca.com visitpalmsprings.com 925-846-8910
visittrivalley.com
Fresno City and County Convention Palm Springs Desert Resorts Convention
& Visitors Bureau & Visitors Authority Tuolumne County Visitors Bureau
1-800-788-0836 1-800-967-3767 1-800-446-1333
playfresno.org visitgreaterpalmsprings.com tcvb.com
Gilroy Visitors Bureau Pasadena Convention & Visitors Authority Vacaville Conference & Visitors Bureau
408-842-1625 1-800-307-7977 707-450-0500
gilroywelcomecenter.org visitpasadena.com visitvacaville.com
Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce Pismo Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau Vallejo Convention & Visitors Bureau
& Visitors Bureau 805-773-4657 707- 642-3653
707-433-6935 classiccalifornia.com visitvallejo.com
healdsburg.com
Redding Convention & Visitors Bureau Ventura County Coast
Huntington Beach Visitors Bureau 1-800-874-7562 1-800-648-2124
1-800-729-6232 visitredding.com venturacountycoast.com
surfcityusa.com
Redondo Beach Chamber of Commerce Ventura Visitors & Convention Bureau
Kern County Board of Trade and Film Commission & Visitors Bureau 805-648-2075
661-868-5376 310-376-6911 visitventuraca.com
visitkern.com visitredondo.com
West Hollywood Convention
Laguna Beach Visitors Bureau Sacramento Convention & Visitors Bureau & Visitors Bureau
949-497-9229 1-800-292-2334 1-800-368-6020
visitlagunabeach.com discovergold.org visitwesthollywood.com
Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority San Diego Convention & Visitors Bureau Yolo County Visitors Bureau
530-544-541-5255 619-232-3101 530-297-1900
tahoesouth.com sandiego.org yolocvb.org
Lodi Conference & Visitors Bureau San Francisco Travel Association Yosemite Mariposa County Visitors Bureau
209-365-1195 415-391-2000 209-742-4567
visitlodi.com sftravel.com yosemiteexperience.com
Long Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau San Jose Convention & Visitors Bureau Yosemite Sierra Visitors Bureau
1-800-452-7829 1-800-726-5673 559-683-4636
visitlongbeach.com sanjose.org yosemitethisyear.com

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 173
RESOURCES
MEDICAL CARE &
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Visitor Medical Insurance plans are designed to cover
medical expenses resulting from a sudden illness or
injury while visiting the USA or other countries.
Typically, visitor insurance plans offer benefits to cover
inpatient hospital, outpatient doctor ojjfice visits,
surgery and prescription drug expenses.
Go One Global Corporation
1-800-257-7718 g1g.com
Distributor of online travel and international medical
insurance products and services.
Insubuy 1-866-467-8289 insubuy.com
Provides a variety of shortterm medical insurance
for foreigners visiting the USA.
International Services, Inc.
1-877-593-5403 nriol.net
Financial services company with focus on providing
quality insurance for U.S. residents, travel
insurance for tourists, and medical insurance for
international students.
Multichoice Insurance Services
1-855-444-6247 insurancemultichoice.com
Fast, simple, online (secured) and effective way to
fulll travel insurance needs.
Patriot America 877-778-4562
patriotamericainsurance.net
Worldwide travel medical insurance for non-U.S.
citizens traveling outside of their citizenship country.
Visitors Care 877-593-5403
visitorscareinsurance.net
Low Cost Travel Medical Insurance for all non-US
citizens traveling to the United States.
USA-Assist Worldwide Protect
877-539-8619 usa-assist.com
Provides travel insurance, assistance and protection
to all kinds of travelers, including groups and
business travelers worldwide.
RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED
RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED ACCESS NORT-
HERN CALIFORNIA: A non-prot organization
dedicated to providing increased opportunities and
improving access to travel and outdoor recreation
for people with disabilities throughout Northern
California. Website (accessnca.org) has a large
resource section with lodging, parks, transportation,
adaptive recreation and more.
ACCESSIBLE SAN DIEGO: This is a non-prot
information center for travelers with disabilities in
San Diego County. Information available via their
website (access-sandiego.org) and they publish an
annual guide available via download or hard copy.
174 2 01 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
DRIVING REGULATIONS
LICENSE/DOCUMENTATION: You must have a valid drivers license from a U.S. state or foreign
country. Minimum driving age is 16. For more information about California drivers license regu-
lations, call 1-800-777-0133.
SEATBELT: By law, everyone in a vehicle must wear a seatbelt. Children under the age of eight
(8) must be secured in a car seat or booster seat in the back seat. Infants should stay in rear-
facing seats until they weigh at least 20 pounds, can pull themselves up to stand, or reach one
year of age.
HELMETS: Motorcycle helmets must be worn by all motorcycle riders, as well as their passengers.
Bicycle riders under the age of 18 must wear helmets.
SPEED LIMITS: These are posted in miles-per-hour (mph). Generally, the speed limit on multi-
lane freeways is 65 mph. On two-lane highways it is usually 55 mph. The speed limit on city streets
is usually 25-35 mph. In residential areas, near schools and in areas with heavy foot traffic, the
speed limit is almost always 25 mph.
CARPOOL LANES: Major urban areas have carpool lanes (or diamond lanes) identified by small
black-and-white signs and by diamonds painted on the roadway. To drive in a carpool lane, you
must usually have two people (including the driver) in the car. Some carpool lanes in the San Fran-
cisco Bay Area require three people (including the driver).
CELL PHONES: The Wireless Communications Device Law makes it an infraction to write, send
or read text-based communication on an electronic wireless communications device, such as a
cell phone, while driving a motor vehicle. Drivers must also use a hands-free device when speaking
on a cell phone.
ACCIDENTS: You must report accidents to the California Department of Motor Vehicles if injury
or death occurs, or if damage exceeds $750.
DRINKING AND DRIVING: It is illegal to drive under the influence of alcohol (blood alcohol
concentration of .08% or higher).
ROAD CONDITIONS: The California Department of Transportation maintains a free 24-hour hot-
line for information at 1-800-427-7623. In the San Francisco Bay Area, dial 511 on your phone to
get up-to-the-minute transportation information.
OTHER: Roundabouts are uncommon in California. Most intersections are either signed by traffic
lights or by stop signs. Unless signed otherwise, it is legal to make a right turn on a red light after
you come to a complete stop.
CAR RENTAL: Avis Rent a Car has an Avis Access permanent disability. The Golden Access Passport is
program that oers a dedicated 24-hour toll-free available at any National Park Service Headquarters.
number (1-888-879-4273) for customers with special
travel needs; special car features such as swivel STATE PARKS: The California Department of Parks
seats, spinner knobs and hand controls; and acces- and Recreation oers a Disabled Discount Pass
sible bus service. which provides a 50 percent discount for use of all
basic facilities (including day use parking, camping
HEARING IMPAIRED ASSISTANCE: Dial 711 for and boat/day use parking fees) at any unit of the
TDD-to-voice or voice-to-TDD relays. California State Park System operated by the State
Department of Parks and Recreation. Cost is $3.50
LOS ANGELES HANDICAPPED TOURIST ACCES- and is available online (www.parks.ca.gov) or by
SIBILITY GUIDE: Available online at latourist.com. calling 1-800-777-0369.
Includes accessible tourist attractions, hiking trails,
outdoor activities, transportation and more. TRAIN TRAVEL: All rail services in California are
wheelchair accessible. In addition, Amtrak oers a
NATIONAL PARKS: Free access to national parks 15% discount to travelers with disabilities (1-800-
is available to U.S. citizens and residents who have a 872-7245 or amtrak.com).
 AIR DISTANCES BETWEEN SELECTED CITIES
SAN DIEGO PALM SPRINGS LOS ANGELES SAN JOSE SAN FRANCISCO SACRAMENTO
(SAN) (PSP) (LAX) (SJC) (SFO) (SMF)

SAN DIEGO mile/km/h 85/137/<1 109/175/<1 417/671/1 437/703/1 480/772/1

LOS ANGELES mile/km/h 109/175/<1 110/176/<1 308/495/1 327/527/1 373/600/1

SAN FRANCISCO mile/km/h 437/703/1 410/660/1 327/527/1 20/32/<1 84/135/<1

NEW YORK mile/km/h 2440/3928/5 2373/3819/5 2469/3974/5 2562/4124/5 2570/4136/5 2514/4046/5

MIAMI mile/km/h 2267/3649/5 2232/3593/4 2432/3769/5 2559/4118/5 2574/4142/5 2552/4107/5

CHICAGO mile/km/h 1723/2773/3 1652/2658/3 1744/2807/3 1829/2944/4 1837/2956/4 1781/2867/4

DENVER mile/km/h 853/1373/2 776/1249/2 862/1387/2 948/1526/2 957/1541/2 910/1464/2

SEATTLE mile/km/h 1050/1690/2 987/1589/2 954/1535/2 696/1121/2 682/1097/2 605/974/2

TORONTO mile/km/h 2157/3472/5 2085/3355/5 2176/3501/5 2245/3612/5 2251/3622/5 2191/3526/4

VANCOUVER mile/km/h 1177/1894/2 1114/1793/2 1080/1739/2 819/1318/2 804/1293/2 729/1173/2

h = ight time rounded to nearest number of hours; <1 = less than 1 hour

DRIVING DISTANCES
SAN PALM LOS SANTA SAN SAN
DIEGO SPRINGS ANGELES BARBARA MONTEREY JOSE FRANCISCO SACRAMENTO YOSEMITE LAKE TAHOE REDDING

SAN DIEGO mile/km 126/203 127/204 218/351 450/724 468/753 514/827 509/819 482/776 604/972 664/1069

PALM
mile/km 126/203 114/183 204/328 453/729 447/719 487/784 490/789 468/753 591/951 651/1048
SPRINGS

LOS
mile/km 127/204 114/183 91/146 327/526 347/558 387/623 388/624 359/578 484/779 544/875
ANGELES

SANTA
mile/km 218/351 204/328 91/146 242/389 286/460 327/526 379/610 398/641 500/805 535/861
BARBARA

MONTEREY mile/km 450/724 453/729 327/526 242/389 69/111 114/183 188/303 203/327 284/457 316/509

SAN
mile/km 514/827 487/784 387/623 327/526 114/183 44/71 90/145 182/293 185/298 217/349
FRANCISCO

YOSEMITE mile/km 482/776 468/753 359/578 398/641 203/327 174/280 182/293 196/315 198/319 247/397

LAKE TAHOE mile/km 604/972 591/951 484/779 500/805 284/457 214/344 185/298 102/164 198/319 256/412

201 7 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 175