Professional Documents
Culture Documents
A Family Affair
The ultimate family guide
to Bali, from fun days out
to fam days in.
ISSN 2086-2539
9 7 7 2 0 8 6 2 5 3 9 3 9
JULY-AUGUST 2023
Rp. 40.000
www.nowbali.co.id
SHORTCUTS
July - August 2 0 2 3
COVER STORIES
2 | www.nowbali.co.id
IN THE LOOP
8 WHAT’S ON
EVENTS, HAPPENiNGS
AND GOiNGS ON
EXPLORE BALI
28 WEST BALi NATiONAL PARK
14 ISLAND UPDATES
LATEST NEWS,
LAUNCHiNGS AND
OPENiNGS
24 OPiNiON
HOMOGENiSATiON,
DiLUTiON AND
DiSORGANiSATiON
DINING
SUGARSAND:
68 A BEACHFRONT IZAKAYA
SEE AND DO
EXPLORE BALi
28 WEST BALi
NATiONAL PARK
32 MUSEUM
24 GEDONG ARCA
OPINION
ROOM RAIDER
HOMOGENiSATiON, DiLUTiON RiTUALS AND ROYAL
AND DiSORGANiSATiON 78 SERViCE AT ST. REGiS
LEISURE CULTURE
CORNER ON THE COVER:
DINING
66 A MOZAiC OF DiNiNG 83 LOCAL TONGUE
EXPERiENCES LEARNiNG BALiNESE
PHRASES
68 SUGARSAND:
BEACHFRONT IZAKAYA 84 TYPiCAL BALi
THE LEMBU SARCOPHAGUS
70 BALi’S NEWEST BARS &
RESTAURANTS 86 TEMPLE TALES
PURA SAMUAN TiGA
72 DiNiNG NEWS & UPDATES
88 HiSTORY
INDONESiAN FRUiTS
WiDYA’S WiNES THROUGH THE EYES OF
76 USA: NEW WORLD WiNES EARLY EXPLORERS
90 ART iN BALi
ROOM RAiDER EMERGiNG BALiNESE ARTiST
78 THE ST. REGiS BALi RESORT JEMANA MURTi
LiKE FATHER LiKE SON
80 ALiLA ViLLAS ULUWATU 92 CULTURE EDWARD SPEiRS
NGiRiNG: ACCOMPANiED
BY THE GODS
www.nowbali.co.id | 3
WELCOME
Family Bonds
Family is central to this island, and this isn’t referring to the fun
experiences and activities families can enjoy. Here, family is not
simply about loving one’s relatives, it’s more old-school than that, and
it extends beyond the reaches of one’s nuclear family too. It’s about
shared responsibility, vertically (across generations) and laterally
(beyond blood relations), where a culture of ‘helping one’s neighbour’
is ingrained into the fabric of ritual and everyday life.
T
o the Balinese Hindu, the journey of one’s soul sharing. To contribute your time because you
(atman) through the cycles of reincarnation (samsara) know others will do the same for you. In an
is the most critical aspect of life and indeed one’s increasingly individualistic world, such family
death. As such, there is an unspoken understanding and community values are becoming a rarity,
to help each other’s journey in and out of this life. Parents and should therefore be cherished.
ensure that their children are given the appropriate rites of
passage, from the 3-month ground touching ceremony to Of course, that is local life. But it sows the seeds
teeth filing and wedding; in return, children will provide the for a family-friendly atmosphere that visitors
proper death rites and cremations to help their parents’ souls and residents can embrace and absorb. On
enter heaven. top of that, of course, are the amazing family
activities and experiences available across
As morbid as that may sound, it is a unifying bond, a the island, set to imprint magical memories
continuous contract between the generations. It is a duty for children and young ones, opportunities
one accepts and does out of love. And rarely can these rites to enjoy real quality time with loved ones. We
be done alone: in Bali, the saying ‘it takes a village to raise hope this edition of NOW! Bali inspires you
a child’ is not just a turn of phrase. Banjar communities and to do just that.
extended families come together to ensure the rites of the
young and old, and intergenerational (sometimes up to
four generations) relationships remain a valued norm. So,
the idea of family is thus about being part of something Edward Speirs
bigger than oneself, a cooperative of helping, learning, Managing Editor
4 | www.nowbali.co.id
Phoenix Communications Publishing Division
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W H AT ’ S A round up of happenings, launchings, and things of note.
E
Kuningan marks the end of the ‘Galungan Days’,
ven before Galungan day comes around the streets taking place ten days after and is when all the
will already be prepared. The first signs are the penjor, ancestors return to their realm. Similar festivities
beautifully decorated bamboo poles that line every street. take place, although most notable is that the
Penjor are symbolic: its arching top represents Mt Agung, offerings will use yellow rice (‘kuning’ meaning
its long trunk represents a river that flows down to the oceans and yellow) and many Balinese will don yellow
a sanggah or shrine is at its base where offerings are placed. traditional attire. These are great times to see the
Bali in its full, festive spirit!
On Galungan, deified ancestors come down to our earthly realm
from their spiritual abodes – they thus must be welcomed with To hear a more in-depth story on Galungan, listen
entertainment (music and dance), prayers and offerings. Offerings to our Podcast episode on the subject. You can
of food are aplenty, with rice cake snacks, or jaja; traditional mince, find The NOW! Bali Podcast on all your main
or lawar; and sate lilit being specially prepared for the occasion. platforms, or go to anchor.fm/now-bali.
8 | www.nowbali.co.id
A LOCAL HARVEST
FOR THE SOUL
Starfish Bloo is a vibrant oceanfront
restaurant with a passion for using the Starfish Bloo at W Bali - Seminyak
Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak, Kerobokan, Denpasar, Bali 80361, Indonesia
freshest, locally-sourced seafood and E-mail: bf.wbali@whotels.com | +62 817 0015 808
garden-grown ingredients to the fullest. starfishbloorestaurant.com
W H AT ’ S A round up of happenings, launchings, and things of note.
T
he festival takes place across two days, Friday, 28 July Netherlands), MANNA Trio featuring Indonesian
2023 to Saturday, 29 July 2023. Over the last nine years, bass living legend Mates, Rio Moreno Latin Combo
Ubud Village Jazz Festival (UVJF) has been held at ARMA (Indonesia), Amanda Lee (Singapore), SCAT C.A.T
Museum, but with its growing popularity, this year the (Canada-Indonesia), Wilson Quah (Malaysia-
festival will take place at STHALA Ubud, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, Indonesia), Jeremy Ternoy (France), Yuri Mahatma
a stunning five-star hotel that nests on the banks of the Wos & Astrid Sulaiman (Indonesia), and the young
River. The hotel’s stunning open- and gifted pianist Nadine Adriana
air space cascading down the (Indonesia), Etawa Jazz (Jogjakarta)
majestic valley will be a magical and many more.
backdrop for the performers
and musicians. Around the festival grounds, guests
will find food and drinks from local
This festival is made by jazz lovers culinary businesses, creative market
for jazz lovers, so you can expect shops and more to explore.
some really serious music to
grace the stage at Ubud Village UVJF 2023 is supported by the
Jazz Festival 2023, from the pure, Ministry of Tourism and Creative
the eclectic and definitely the Economy of The Republic of
energetic. Indonesia , as well as the the cultural
affairs departments of France (Institut
A diverse and talented lineup Français Indonésie), The Netherlands
from around the world and (Erasmus Huis), and Spain (Instituto
the archipelago will come Cervantes).
together for the two-day event.
These include the likes of: the
renowned and and respected Get your tickets online for UVJF
Kevin Hays Trio (USA), along 2023 at ubudvillagejazzfestival.
with Pere Bujosa Trio (Spain), com and follow them on Instagram
Henk Kraajeveld Quintet (The at @ubudvillagejazzfestival
10 | www.nowbali.co.id
Indonesia’s
Independence
Day: 76 Years of
Nationhood
I
ndonesia’s Independence Day on August
17th marks a significant milestone in the
nation’s history. In 1945, Indonesia declared
its independence from Dutch colonial rule,
ushering in a new era of sovereignty. The annual
celebrations are filled with enthusiasm and pride.
Sanur Village
Festival 2023
The most anticipated event of Sanur, and
certainly one of Bali’s biggest community events,
Sanur Village Festival 2023 will be taking place
from 19 - 23 August 2023 at Pantai Matahari
Terbit, Sanur.
www.nowbali.co.id | 11
W H AT ’ S A round up of happenings, launchings, and things of note.
F
rom 17 June to 30 September, restaurant and gallery space, Masa
Masa, is hosting an exhibition of exquisite ‘batik pesisiran’, or
coastal batik, from the archives of Pithecanthropus Bali. Featuring
batik more than 100 years old, ‘Pasang Surut’ focuses on the
textile’s history and development in north Java, intertwined with the
socio-cultural changes of the area at the time.
Pasang Surut, translated as ‘Ebb and Flow’, tells the story of batik finding
its colourful expression and how the region’s own changes as hubs of
trade, travel and migration influenced batik motifs in different areas.
The exhibition will showcase two chapters. 17 June to 5 August will be the
‘Awang, Tanah, Laut’ (Sky, Land Sea) display, with batik of the Cirebon and
Pekalongan areas. Distinct mythical animal, flower and Javan sea motifs
reflect the Islamic, Hindu, Indian, Peranakan, Japanese and European
influences. Then from 12 August to 30 September, the second chapter
displays Jenggala (the forest) and Segara (water) elements in the intricate
batik motifs. These will all be on display alongside accessories and
homeware from the 1920s to 1960s. Apart from the batik exhibition, there is
a series of workshops held every Saturday and special performances around
Indonesia’s Independence day (17 August) that should not be missed.
Masa Masa
Jl. Subak Telaga I No.9, Ketewel
+62 819 4630 5122 | @masamasabali
R
enowned for its electrifying annual summer music festivals, the
five-star resort is ready to make waves again with its aptly named
event, Summer Soundwave, set to be held on Saturday, 15 July
2023! Kicking off at 4pm, dress up in your most comfortable but
fashionable party attire as they present two stages to keep you dancing
from day to night with beats by international headliners and Bali’s
prominent Hip-Hop DJs.
Tickets are available online (priced at IDR 500.000), with VIP tables and
room packages available.
12 | www.nowbali.co.id
UP
I S LA N D D A T E Latest news and openings in Bali
Slide into Waterbom and Western food, made fresh daily from local
ingredients in the open kitchen.
‘Oasis Gardens’
mission for sustainability is at the heart of this new
area. They have worked closely with consultants,
Eco Mantra Bali to integrate ‘Environmentally
Sustainable Design’: positioning slides, pipes and
This July marks the opening of the highly- towers to minimise water loss, adding rainwater
anticipated new area at Waterbom Bali, harvesting systems, installing optimally-placed
solar panels on roof areas for maximum sunlight
Oasis Gardens, welcoming four new are but some examples. These all contribute to
thrilling slides, a new restaurant and an reduce the park’s footprint and help Waterbom
reach their net-zero goals. Not a single tree was
inviting lagoon pool. cut down to create Oasis Gardens, following the
values of Founder Santo Gulino when Waterbom
S
was originally built.
ince it opened in 1993, this tropical waterpark has retained
its reputation as a family-favourite destination in Bali, and “As a business leader it is important to be
what better way to celebrate their 30th anniversary than by passionate and believe in these values which will
adding a stunning, 1.3 hectares of fun to the park. Oasis create a ripple effect amongst our employees,
Gardens has been meticulously designed, not only to introduce inspiring and encouraging them to act the same
new and unique visitor experiences, but also to create a space that and be mindful about the environment,” says
is lush and verdant, with environmentally-friendly values at its core. Sayan Gulino, CEO at Waterbom. It is this constant
striving for better that has helped the park achieve
At the centre of the Oasis is a 20-metre, giant winding slide global recognition, including being name #1 in
tower with a cantilevered viewing platform housing four new Asia and #5 in the world for Tripadvisor’s ‘Traveller’s
slides. Alongside its family-friendly reputation, Waterbom Bali is Choice Awards 2023’, in the Amusement Parks &
definitely a place for thrill-seekers: the new slides lean more to Waterparks category.
the extreme, with ‘Tailspin’, ‘The Drop’ and a renewed favourite,
’Boomerang’, set to test the brave and bold! For those who prefer Visitors can already experience ‘Oasis Gardens’
to take it slow, the Oasis’ new lagoon pool and sunken pool bar and all of its new experiences, alongside the park’s
will be the perfect spot, surrounded by vibrant botanical gardens already superb original offerings.
that are signature to the Waterbom experience. Not to mention
a relaxing outdoor spa and massage area for those who want to
take it really easy. Waterbom Bali
Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta
The new Oasis Cafe adds to the park’s great dining selection, +62 361 755676
featuring an open-air, 50-seat venue serving Pan-Asian, Indonesian @waterbombali | waterbom-bali.com
14 | www.nowbali.co.id
UP
I S LA N D D A T E Latest news and openings in Bali
T
is to help lessen the impact of ground coffee waste
his exciting collaboration between Sensatia Botanicals and on the environment.
Tanamera Coffee is an effort to support ground coffee
waste management, wherein waste coffee ground is CEO and Founder of Sensatia Botanicals, Michael
the main component utilised to produce the Sensatia R. Lorenti Jr., says “Driven by the initiative to reduce
Botanicals Tanamera Coffee Body Scrub. waste, this collaboration has resulted in a high-
quality skincare product. Not only rich in benefits
Indonesia is renowned as one of the biggest coffee producers for maintaining skin health, but this collaborative
in the world, producing up to 1.35 million 60kg bags of coffee product is also environmentally friendly with the
in 2022 according to Statista. Whilst this certainly is great for use of repurposed coffee grounds as natural
Indonesia’s coffee farmers, increased production certainly leads to ingredients in the scrub.”
an unavoidable increase in waste.
Sensatia Botanicals Tanamera Coffee Body Scrub
Crafted using carefully selected natural ingredients, Sensatia is priced at IDR 130,000. Available now at all
Botanicals Tanamera Coffee Body Scrub uses the likes of pure Sensatia Botanicals and Tanamera Coffee Stores,
Arabica coffee grounds that have undergone recycling processes online at sensatia.com and tanameracoffee.com,
as well as comprehensive testing to guarantee the hygiene of the and various online marketplaces.
16 | www.nowbali.co.id
UP
I S LA N D D A T E Latest news and openings in Bali
Bali’s first ever exhibition hall dedicated to the ocean and its protection and
conservation officially opened in Sanur in May 2023. Found in the CTC Center
for Marine Conservation, a holistic education facility where professionals,
schools, families and even travellers can learn about ocean conservation. It is
run by Coral Triangle Center (CTC), a non-profit organisation that promotes
the conservation of marine biodiversity and the sustainable management of
marine and coastal resources across the Coral Triangle.
T
he new exhibition hall features large-scale art installations A state-of-the-art interactive exhibit, Grand Blue
that showcase the creativity of Indonesian and foreign Project by Swiss explorer Edi Frommenwiler,
artists in presenting the beauty of our oceans, interactive presents 60,000 video clips produced over 30
displays that highlight the charismatic marine life of the years. An eye-opening archive of more than
Coral Triangle, as well as solutions to threats like climate change 1,000 marine species that will inspire any viewer.
and plastic pollution. Visitors can also directly take conservation Finally, a coral restoration exhibit that features
actions during their visit by adopting a coral, signing up for an interactive virtual games which enables players
online course, or joining field trips, and fun learning activities. to win by restoring coral reefs and identifying
the different musical sounds in a healthy reef.
Some of the artworks found in the exhibition hall include The exhibition hall adds to the existing displays,
‘Weaving the Ocean’ by Montreal and Bali-based artist Ari Bayuaji, activities and workshops available at CTC Center
an installation made of upcycled plastic ropes found washed for Marine Conservation, aimed at engaging and
ashore in Sanur’s mangrove area. There’s also ‘Harmony Island’ inspiring people of all backgrounds to take action
by Mulyana, an Indonesian artist based in Jogjakarta who has in protecting and conserving the oceans and its
created a vibrant coral ecosystem through beautifully crafted biodiversity.
crochet pieces using surplus yarn from the garment industry.
Open Monday-Sunday, 10am to 5pm.
There are two photographic exhibitions, including ‘I Love Banda’
by Dutch photographer Isabelle Boon, which shines a spotlight
on six teenage Banda islanders and their lives on these remote Coral Triangle Center
islands. As well as ‘From the Deep’, featuring photographs from Jalan Betngandang II, 88-89, Sanur
the mesophotic zone of marine habitats at depths of 30-100 +62-811-39-400400
metres , by French marine biologist Alexis Chappuis. coraltrianglecenter.org / savingoceansnow.com
18 | www.nowbali.co.id
balidynastyresort
Newly Renovated Kupu - Kupu Kids Club Newly Renovated Kupu - Kupu Kids Club
Aerial View New Room Type Family Garden Newly Launched Gaming Room
M
apping Bali is the record of Bruce’s visual relationship Bruce saw life in the environment and the
to the island, which has been his home for over 30 surroundings he was recording, and his research
years. Across 190 pages are charming illustrations brought him closer to the Balinese people, too.
done by the artist-author himself, with detailed hand- “In these long days of mapmaking, I had a habit of
drawn maps, diagrams and sketches. It is a vibrant visual library of stopping at a warung for coffee. I quickly realised
350 images. that the proprietors and hangers-on were a rich
source of local folklore,” Bruce reminisces.
Bruce’s masterful sketch work and detailed cartography landed
him a mapping project in which he was to produce 12 area maps What began as a simple mapping project has become
for a guidebook to Bali. This allowed him to travel around the a remarkable and unique gallery of Bali. Everything in
island as he familiarised himself with the topography. He was this book is hand-drawn, evolving from Bruce’s own
in awe by the geological forces that shaped the island, how the field notes and sketches. The images thus represent
famous rice fields flowed out from the rough cut mountains that the author’s very personal capturing of the island as he
run from east to west. recorded what he saw as wonders, or simply intriguing,
whether that was a geological process, a village layout,
Through these journeys, Bruce began to recognise and appreciate a temple statute or a dancer’s hand position.
more than just the landscape he was researching.
Complementing the incredibly rich visuals, the
“I couldn’t have decided on a more time consuming method to accompanying text in Mapping Bali provides
do this project,” shares the author. “But there was an unexpected readers with deep insight, helping them to
pleasure that made it all worthwhile. As I combed through the understand the island ‘spatially’, both physical and
island road-by-road, I started to see interesting things, almost philosophical; and culturally.
hidden away in the shadows.There were architectural surprises,
different types of temples; completely different patterns that rice ‘Mapping Bali: Island, Culture, People’ by Bruce
fields can make, basically interesting things I probably would’ve Granquist is available internationally, and in
have seen otherwise. Indonesia at Periplus Bookstores.
20 | www.nowbali.co.id
UP
I S LA N D D A T E Latest news and openings in Bali
T
he Samsara Collection is excited to announce the addition and many other activities while cruising.
of Samsara Samudra, a 42-metre, custom-built phinisi to its
family. The luxury yacht offers bespoke experiences for up
to 12 guests on a private charter basis. samsarasamudra.com | @samsarasamudra
F
ive-star luxury resort, Conrad Bali, recently launched JIWA forward to four pools for lap swimming.
Wellness, a reimagined wellness concept designed to
support guests’ entire being through an array of specially
developed treatments, therapies and experiences. The Conrad Bali
program is centred on three pillars - JIWA Spa, JIWA Sense and Jl. Pratama No.168, Tanjung, Benoa
JIWA Strength. +62 361 778 788 | conradbali.com
22 | www.nowbali.co.id
O P I N IO N
HOMOGENISATION,
DILUTION AND
DISORGANISATION
A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE ON TOURISM BY ALISTAIR SPEIRS
I
used to be in the insurance business and we spent But this is where Risk Two comes in: Dilution. As
a lot of time doing risk management, identifying we develop our destinations, first building hotels,
the relevant risks for a business then deciding if we then adding restaurants, spas, bars, clubs, malls and
can eliminate them, minimise them, mitigate them, theme parks, without control we soon overwhelm,
manage them or just have to accept and work around overshadow, and often obscure entirely, the core
them. In our efforts to achieve really sustainable assets of the destination until the majority of the
tourism, I think we have to start thinking the same people no longer come for the temples and the
way, and those unappetising words in the title are dances, but for the drinking and the dancing.
three of the risks that we face in trying to make our
destinations sustainable. Let’s look at them in turn This is what I call “destination dilution” and Risk Two
quickly reinforces Risk One and the uniqueness of the
First homogenisation - which simply means everything destination is quickly lost in a gaggle of Ibiza style clubs,
becoming the same - and this is what we are doing Californian-style vegan restaurants and international
with a lot of our Asian destinations. I recently spoke at brand shops. Not only are the ceremonies, architecture
an international travel conference where I presented and traditions obscured, they are outgunned and often
a series of pictures in groups of two: beaches, pools, literally blasted out of existence by entertainment that
spas, bars, restaurants and hotel rooms across Bali, could literally be from anywhere in the world. And it
Penang, Phuket, Hong Kong, KL, Singapore, even seems everyone is happy with that as long as the
Dubai. No-one could tell which destination each money flows in. But I am not because that formula
photo was taken in — even those who worked there! will not last forever and when the traditions are gone,
That’s homogenisation and it makes selling these they will not return, leaving the DJ’s, the baristas and
destinations based on unique core values very the mixologists to rule the roost. Homogenised and
difficult. diluted, our beautiful destinations just become the
temporary playgrounds for young fun seekers.
I then explained what huge advantages destinations
with unique attributes have, anchoring the destination Worse than that, this rapid development is so
through their clearly unique identity, and this is where often not correctly controlled, zoned, limited and
Indonesia, especially Bali, scores so highly, with the disciplined, that the entrepreneurs and builders grab
temples, rice fields, ceremonies, traditions, dances, the best available land in the most popular areas,
architecture, art, artefacts, local cuisine, mountains, spreading concrete and steel across both natural and
beaches and seas. agricultural land disrupting the whole balance of life.
24 | www.nowbali.co.id
O P I N IO N
And while this rapid - and don’t get me wrong - often In Bali we can clearly identify: traffic, parking, waste,
very high-quality private sector is developing, what loss of nature and agriculture, obscuring of core
is the public sector doing? Well, far too often, not values, loss of architectural identity, poor zoning
enough and not quick enough, creating destinations and badly behaved tourists as major risk factors. But
with appalling traffic and parking, water and you probably don’t know there is also a water crisis,
electricity shortages, waste problems, air quality over-dependence on coal fired electricity, a lack of
problems, community disruption and cultural recycling and composting facilities, and a whole
appropriation. This is Risk Three: Disorganisation: section of the population still living in poverty.
where the coordination between government
departments fails, between government and the But to eliminate this requires discipline: limiting
tourist industry fails, where the residents (who motorcycles, reducing private motor vehicles, banning
own the destination) are ignored and the visitors’ single use plastic, enforcing 100% waste segregation
enjoyment is greatly impaired by the very factor and recycling, pulling down giant billboards and
that the government thinks is success: over-tourism illegal buildings, banning (again!) building on natural
- simply too many arrivals. or agricultural land, enforcing parking regulations,
pushing for a change to renewable energy, and
So how do we go about managing these risks? As I creating organisations that can manage, monitor and
mentioned at the beginning? Well first we have to identify enforce all these rules.
correctly (and have that identification acknowledged by
the relevant government departments who are often It’s a tall order, but if we don’t do this the resulting
reluctant to admit they have problems), then see if we disorganisation will result in the very homogenisation
can eliminate, minimise or mitigate. and dilution we are trying to avoid.
www.nowbali.co.id | 25
BALI BULELENG REGENCY
Stretching along the north of Bali, like
its golden crown, Buleleng offers a
Bali is divided into eight regencies with Denpasar as the capital. truly distinct landscape and atmos-
phere. The coastline is more dry and
The south area of the island is developed, providing ample arid, whilst its interior is mountainous
and verdant. With less development
shopping, dining, and sightseeing opportunities as well as leisure it is a rural escape into nature and
activities. Renowned diving sites are located on the island’s north history.
and east areas as well as Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida. Highlights include:
• Singaraja, Bali’s Old Capital
• Lovina Beach
• Banjar Hot Springs
Lov
Gilimanuk Pemuteran
BU
Negara
JEMBRANA REGENCY
This western-most regency
is Bali’s least visited, but is
home to real cultural and
environmental gems, and
showcases the island’s
agrarian livelihoods.
T
TABANAN REGENCY
Highlights include:
Often considered the rice bowl
• West Bali National Park
of Bali because of its huge
• Blimbing Sari and Palasari stretches of rice fields and
Villages terraces, this impressive regency
• Makepung Buffalo Races stretches from the coast to the
• Menjangan Island interiors with so much to offer.
Highlights include:
• Pura Tanah Lot
• Jatiluwih
• Mount Batukaru
• Bratan, Buyan & Tamblingan
BADUNG REGENCY
Lakes
The most buzzing of Bali’s
• Bali Botanical Garden regencies, host to the majority
of hotels, restaurants, shops
and lifestyle experiences. From DENPASAR
beachfronts to clifftops, surf Ca
spots to beach clubs, this is the Bali’s capital city and
centre of tourism. administrative centre. This
is a buzzing urban area
Highlights include: home to local commerce,
• Pura Luhur Uluwatu government and society.
• Garuda Wisnu Kencana Statue
• Kuta, Seminyak, Canggu, Highlights include:
Uluwatu, Nusa Dua, Jimbaran • Bali Museum
• Sangeh Monkey Forest • Bajra Sandhi Monument
• Taman Hutan Raya Ngurah Rai • Renon Square
REGENCIES (Mangrove Forest) • Werdhi Budaya Art
• I Gusti Ngurah Rai Centre
International Airport • Sanur Beach
MOUNTAINS • Serangan Island
POPULAR HUBS
MUNICIPALITIES
26 | www.nowbali.co.id
BANGLI REGENCY
This mountainous region stands in the cen-
KLUNGKUNG REGENCY
tre of Bali, where climate is cool and crisp.
This was once Bali’s most powerful
A favourite for lovers of the outdoors and
kingdom, the royal centre of the Ma-
the island’s more ancient history.
japahit Kingdom when they invaded
Highlights include: Bali. Thus, it is rich in cultural history
and ancient arts.
• Mount Batur and Abang
• Lake Batur Highlights include:
• Kintamani Pine Forests • Kerta Gosa
• Penglipuran Village • Kamasan Village
• Trunyan Village • Semarapura
• Puputan Monument KARANGASEM REGENCY
• Pura Goa Lawah
• Nusa Penida, Lembongan and This eastern region has so much
Ceningan to offer. From the mountain to
the sea, to under the sea!
Singaraja Highlights include:
• Mount Agung & Pura
Besakih
• Pura Lempuyang
• Candidasa & Amed
vina • Virgin Beach
• Tenganan Pegringsingan
Village
ULELENG • Padang Bai Port
• Taman Ujung & Tirta Gangga
Lake Buyan
Mt. Batur
Bedugul
Mt. Batukaru
Mt. Agung Amed
BANGLI KARANGASEM
Tegalalang Amlapura
TABANAN KLUNGKUNG
www.nowbali.co.id | 27
EX P LO R E BA L I
28 | www.nowbali.co.id
EX P LO R E BA L I
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W
est Bali National Park may seem like an age sapphire coat of the Collared Kingfisher, or bright orange
away, being roughly a four-hour drive from of the Rufous-Backed Kingfisher. The small and colourful
Denpasar. However, distance should not birds are best seen early in the morning by quiet alcoves
dissuade curious travellers, as a visit to this in the mangrove forest where they feed. Rare birds like
part of the island is an eye-opening experience, presenting the endangered and endemic Jalak Bali, or Bali Starling
a side to Bali vastly different from what many experience in will also be spotted thanks to great breeding programs
the lifestyle-heavy south. on the island. Less common nowadays are sightings
of Crested Serpent-eagle and Javan hawks, who once
The national park is found at the very northwestern tip of regularly glided above the tree-line in the afternoons —
the island, occupying a substantial 190-square kilometres but you might get lucky!
of land and sea. Much of this located on a vast peninsula
that juts out towards east Java, where the majestic Mt. Ijen ENJOYING THE SURROUNDINGS
and Mt Baluran tower on the horizon.
Now, you don’t have to be forest explorer to enjoy a visit to
What is perhaps most intriguing, and what makes West Bali West Bali National Park. Whilst the forests and wildlife are
National Park such a great playground for nature lovers, certainly the main draw, there are other ways to enjoy the
is that it is home to a variety of different habitats. It is natural surroundings.
dominated mainly by monsoon forest, which sprawls across
undulating hills and into valleys; but this transforms into For one a trip to Menjangan Island is a popular experience,
a contrast of rainforest and savannah terrains in different where a local jukung boat takes you out to this island
areas, each a host to different vegetation and wildlife. found 8km off-shore. Named after the Balinese word for
Along the coast, a thick, tangling mangrove forest binds deer, you’ll find many roaming the beaches here, but it’s
the borders of land and sea; and underwater, thriving coral actually a great spot for snorkelling and diving, especially
reefs are a world of their own. ‘wall diving’.
A WILDLIFE WONDERLAND Many of the resorts are located around Pejarakan Bay, a
calm-watered, mangrove-lined inlet where visitors can
With such a patchwork of habitats, this sprawling garden of kayak and swim in the open waters, with some great little
wilderness is home to 175 species of plants, 110 species of coral reefs to view whilst snorkelling too. On the east side
coral and hundreds of species of animals, some of which of the bay, you will also find Banyuwedang Hotspring, a
are found exclusively in this quiet little nook of Bali. public hot spring pool in the thickets of the mangrove.
Commonly seen are wild deer that roam and graze the Generally though, the West Bali National Park is a place to
forest floor in groups, as well as long-tail Macaques, far get away. Whether you trek through the forests, birdwatch
more reserved than their thieving cousins in Ubud and around the mangroves, go snorkelling or simply enjoy the
Uluwatu! quiet and natural scenery with a book in hand, this distant
destination is escapism at its best.
However, there are other very unique mammals that call
this forest home. These include the Southern Red Muntjac, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
often referred to as barking deer, who are small deer
about the size of a dog. Another monkey species is found As a monsoon forest, the national park changes dramatically
here too, the endangered Javan Langur, or Ebony Lutung, in the wet season. It is generally best to go during the drier
endemic to Indonesia. Adorable monkeys with big, dark months (June-August) as the deciduous trees lose their
glassy eyes and shining black fur. They are hard to spot leaves and make it safer to trek, and easier to spot animals.
in the canopies, where they feed mainly on leaves. Also It also generally better weather and climate.
roaming the park are wild boar, feeding in the dry savannah
areas by day, or foraging between trees at night; wild We highly recommend that you trek in the main national
luwak (civet cats) traipsing from the tangling mangroves to park area with a local guide, this makes for a better
the forest floor; giant tree squirrels hopping between high experience and will take you deeper into the wilderness.
branches; swopping large flying fox; and Sunda leopard Go to the Ticketing Office at Labuan Lalang (Kantor SPTN,
cats, said to be dwelling deep in the forest. Labuan Lalang) to find a guide. This is also where you must
go to book a boat trip to Menjangan Island. Note that there
The national park is really a birdwatchers paradise. are entrance fees for the park (IDR 200.000 for foreigners
According to the late Victor Mason, author of ‘Birds of and IDR 10.000 for Indonesians) and additional fees of the
Bali’, flamboyant birds were found across the island. But same amount to visit Menjangan.
with land-use change and habitat loss, many of them
find refuge in the safety of the park. Now, you may not Finally, getting to West Bali National Park takes roughly
consider yourself an ornithologist, but when you’re under four-hours drive. There are many routes to get there,
the canopy trying to spot the Chestnut-breasted Malkoha including the road to west Bali (Jl. Raya Denpasar-
having heard its distinct call (“kuk-kuk”) in the branches, Gilimanuk) which is shortest but busiest; through the
that may very well change. central highlands of Bedugul, offering great views and a
place to pitstop before heading down the north coast; or
Yes, there are 160 different species of birds recorded at the most scenic route is going north just before Medewi,
West Bali National Park, each presenting a spectrum of up Pekutatan, with quaint village roads and beautiful rice
hues and colours, like the Green Pigeon, the dazzling fields and valleys.
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M
ost people’s perception of Balinese history is dominated by events
of the last millennium. If we rewind the clock, we will see influences
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY EDWARD SPEIRS
from the Dutch colonisation, before that the arrival of the Majapahit
Empire, and before that the blurry history of what is considered
Bali’s ‘ancient’ period, spanning from the 8th to 14th centuries. The likes of the
For the history buffs Prasasti Blanjong (Blanjong inscription), Goa Gajah, Candi Gunung Kawi are
remnants of this period; of Bali’s early ‘Indianised’ Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms.
out there, Museum
Gedong Arca in But what preceded these? Today’s Bali still reflects the influences of these
historical periods, but prior to that, it was a very different island indeed. It is this
Blahbatuh, Gianyar, past that Museum Gedong Arca (also known as Museum Arkeologi) puts on
is a lesser-visited display, ‘arca’ being the Indonesian word for the statute.
museum that houses The museum was founded in the late 1950s by Indonesian archaeologists of the
time. It was built to house the various prehistoric relics and artefacts found in the
ancient artefacts distant corners of Bali. More than 3,000 pieces are now stored here, organised
dating back to Bali’s and displayed in chronological order for visitors to discover a past of Bali that
many may not have heard about.
palaeolithic era,
including the largest A series of display rooms and pavilions are dotted around the museum
compound. The first opens with Bali’s Palaeolithic Age, otherwise known as
collection of ancient the Old Stone Age. Yes, Bali was once home to hunter-gatherers, assumed to
sarcophagi. be an extinct human species known as homo erectus, who used stone tools.
Remnants of these tools were found in the villages of Trunyan and Sembiran,
examples of which are on display at the museum and date back to 600,000
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BCE! Moving forward in time, the museum shows some relics The 186cm relic is kept at Pura Penataran
of a slightly more advanced culture of the Mesolithic Age, Sasih Temple in Pejeng, east of Ubud.
otherwise known as the Middle Stone Age, with improved
stone tools. This period in Bali’s history is dated to around Lastly, Museum Gedong Arca moves into Bali’s
20,000 BCE. ancient period. It is this period that really gives
the museum its name, typified by the many
Following this fascinating period comes a more sophisticated statues that came out of this time. Little stone
Neolithic Age, which marks the arrival of Austronesian peoples linggas, statuettes of Ganesha, Siwa, Durga
to Indonesia from South China. Dated between 3,000 to 600 and stupikas are evidence of the arrival of early
BCE, these migrants brought with them agriculture, namely Hindu-Buddhist influences, much like those
rice growing techniques using mixed-material hand tools, found in Pura Puncak Penulisan in Kintamani.
plus evidence of ceramic pottery. This marks the beginning of Bali’s written history,
where ‘prasati’ (stone inscriptions) of the kings
The most intriguing aspect of this age is its stone sarcophagi, of old help to place timestamps in Bali’s pre-
which the museum houses more than 50. These giant stone Majapahit past. The archaeological museum
coffins are of varying sizes and styles, some featuring human showcases replicas of these carvings, the most
or animal heads carved as handles — these are clues to the interesting being those found in Pura Penataran
culture of the time, as bodies would have been placed in Belungsung showcasing an ancient numerical
foetal positions to fit into these ancient tombs. When these system that used images: the carvings of a
sarcophagi were found, some still had bones of the departed, moon, eye, ear and elephant translated into the
with burial goods found nearby. These are all on display year ‘1228’ on the Saka calendar year, or 1303
in a large courtyard dedicated to these giant, mysterious on the Gregorian Calendar.
artefacts. Evidence of these Neolithic communities has been
found from Cekik Village, west Bali all the way to Bangli, Though very humble and simple, Museum
central-east Bali. Gedong Arca’s collection of artefacts, and
the way it is displayed, helps to open visitors’
The intriguing displays continue at the museum, the next understanding of these intriguing periods
featuring evidence of Bali’s Bronze Age. Intricate metal in Balinese history. From tools to bones and
relics, from statuettes to earrings, spear tips and coins, giant sarcophagi, you are welcome to witness
dated between 600 BCE to 800 AD, show a sophisticated the clues and remnants of a prehistoric past.
grasp of metallurgy. This is assumed to have been an import
from Vietnam’s ‘Dong Son’ culture of the time, evidence of Gedong Arca is open on weekdays, from 9am
migration and trade during that period. This is the time in to 4pm. It is free entry and normally a museum
which the ‘Moon of Pejeng’, was made: a bronze ceremonial guide is available to share insight into the
kettledrum said to be the largest of its kind in the world. displays and chronology.
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BALI
A Family Affair
On this family-friendly island, it’s all about making new
memories and enjoying quality time with loved ones.
Whether you’re a resident or a visitor to Bali, there are many
opportunities to create memorable experiences and precious
moments, either for the children or indeed the whole family.
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BALI’S
Family Folklore
Folk stories are told all around the world and are part of the cultural
fabric of different societies. Passed down from generation to generation,
they are more than just bedtime stories, they are often imbued with
morals and messages that reflect values of each time and place, hoping
to instil the next generation with the right virtues to live a good life.
F
olk stories around the globe will often cover similar themes, from family
values and appropriate behaviour to religious piety. These same themes
are found in Bali’s own folklore, coloured with a local flair, some mysticism
and of course, the godly. Here we share some of the island’s age-old
myths and legends, passed down through the generations.
Men and Pan Brayut were a simple farming family, adherents of the Buddhist
religion but of course practitioners of Bali’s ancestral rites and rituals. They are
known for having 18 children (a multiple of 9 which is symbolically important in
Hindu philosophy.), who are the source of their struggle but also their salvation.
The story shares of the family household as they prepare for Galungan Day, and
describes as an exhausted Men Brayut falls asleep, having cared for the rabble
of children all morning. Meanwhile, Pan Brayut is busy in the kitchen, he has
cooked the pork and prepared it all for the Galungan offerings, letting his wife
rest, taking on some of her offering preparation chores.
Later, Men Brayut wakes up and is famished. She sees the delicious pork and
ceremonial food all laid out and without thinking begins to eat it. So hungry is she
that she ignores her crying children as she feeds. Suddently, her husband enters and
sees that she has eaten the ceremonial food and scolds her. A fight ensures: “Not
only do you not help to prepare the offerings, you go ahead and eat it all yourself!”
shouts the angry husband. “All the while our many children are neglected.” In her
own fury, Men Brayut spits back: “Well, I wouldn’t be so exhausted if we didn’t have
this many children — all because you are unable to control your lust!”
Alas, Pan Brayut seeks the wisdom of his spiritual teacher, Prince Jembong,
from whom he learns the teachings of Buddha. The struggling father meditates
under the large kepuh tree, and finds solace in his situation, seeing what must be
done. The story continues with Men and Pan Brayut essentially accepting their
responsibility as parents of these 18 children and, despite their low social
and financial status, do their best to raise them well. They succeed, and all
18 children were considered to be standup members of the community.
Completing their ‘task’ as parents, the committed mother and father thus
leave their home and take up a life dedicated to spirituality - the next
‘phase’ of life, wanaprasta (retired life).
There is a lot to learn from this little story about a big family, what can we
identify? It’s a message to parents, that they despite difficulty, they must
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accept the responsibility of their parental role and are goal is to learn and acquire knowledge; (2) Grhasta,
obliged to give their children a good upbringing. It household life, when an individual gets married and
hints at the risks of succumbing to one’s lust so easily, assumes the responsibility of raising children and
and also the solace and guidance that one’s belief in building a stable household; (3) Wanaprasta, retired
God and spirituality can give you in times of trouble. life, where you pass the household on to the next
In this case, the wisdom found in Buddhism. The story generation and begin spiritual learnings and liberation;
suggests that responsibilities must be shared, lest and finally (4) Sanyasin, renounced life, where you
conflict arise between a couple. release any material attachments and focus on achieving
enlightenment through a simple and peaceful life.
The story’s ultimate lesson is that spirituality is a part
of family life, but also that a positive family life leads to Men and Pan Brayut have become immortalised figures
better spirituality. in Balinese everyday life. Not only as symbols for familial
responsibility, but also as symbols of fertility. This is
Finally, it is a reminder on the four Hindu stages of life, specific to Men Brayut, of whom many statues have
catur asrama: (1) Brahmacari, student life, where one’s been made, depicting her carrying many children.
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BALI’S
Family Folklore
This next story comes from esteemed cultural contributor, Jean
Couteau, who shares a local wayang adaptation of a story from the
Ramayana. The wayang puppet show theatres being the old medium
for moral storytelling in villages, shared Hindu epics and local folklore
coloured with magic and mysticism and of course, important morals.
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The girl emerged from behind the bushes daughter, show me that magical box. Do not hit it from
where she had been hiding and said to her my eyes, tell me how it came to your hands. And Naraci,
mother: “Oh, Mother, tell me who it was nymph of heaven, tell me the secrets of its powers. And
whose light was so bright that it blinded why only share this with your daughter?”
me.” And Naraci replied: “It was the blinding
light of the day, the Sun God himself. He Naraci blushed and squirmed, staying silent. The old
handed a gift to me, which I will give to you. man suddenly understood, she had been unfaithful
It is called the Astagina Box. It can grant to him. He snatched the box and, his voice quivering,
you whatever wish you wish for. But, please, cursed his wife: “Naraci, if indeed you remain silent,
don’t disclose this secret to anyone, not then silent you shall remain - may you be turned to
even to your father and brothers.” stone for the times to come!”
Much to her mother’s regret, the daughter Naraci indeed slowly turned to stone. Shaken and in
was quiet but her use of the box was far tears, Gotama threw the box with all his might and
from discreet. She soon discovered how said to his children: “Whoever wants this magical box
convenient it was to have such a magical will have to go and find it themselves!”
talisman, using it whenever she dancied.
Her tutor, Jembawan, became aware of her The children, not even paying heed to their mother’s
doings. He thought:“If Renjani has been demise, chased after the shining Astagina and
given such magical powers, why should not followed it as it plummeted into a lake. Its magic now
the two sons?” in the waters, the sons were turned into monkeys; the
daughter only partly monkey, having splashed lightly
Jembawan confronted Dwarsa and in the water. Mortified, they headed their father’s
Dwantara: “Sons of Gotama, your sister advice, who told them that was the fate of their choices
has been bequeathed with a magical box — and that their only hopes in returning to human form
by your mother, the Astagina. Why is it that was to meditate and find peace within.
you don’t have a share of its powers? Are
you not the heirs of your house and name?” What does this story tell us? Well, it is open to interpretation,
but it shares of the pitfalls of abundance, putting us at
The boys were confused, having never known risk to becoming nothing but ‘apes’; what our desire for
about it. They approached their father and abundance can lead us to do, or indeed make us ignore.
asked: “Why is that you have given this box to It is a story on greed, and on honesty, and tells of the cure
your daughter, and not us?” to our woes: meditation and introspection.
Gotama himself was unaware of what this Perhaps it’s not even as deep as that, perhaps all it
was all about — why were his sons accusing says is: “Kids, don’t unravel your mother’s secrets! She
him of being unjust? He then summoned may well turn into stone, while you will be turned into
his wife and daughter and said, “Renjani, a monkey.”
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A DAY OF NATURE WALKING here are two walks you can go on which
are easy for kids of all ages.
Simple, but memorable, going for a walk out in nature
is an excuse to pack the bags and travel somewhere A great walking destination is Jatiluwih
together. A reason to get out the house, get off devices Rice Terraces in Tabanan. At the area’s
and go on a little road trip. There’s many great walks central point you’ll find a network of paved
in Bali, of varying difficulty and distance. The beach, trails through the rice fields of different
is of course an obvious walk, but for those who want lengths and difficulties, all mapped out
to travel a little further and enjoy a more green scene, and colour coded.
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The trekking routes range from 1.5km can take a seat at one of the many restaurants that line the
to 3.1km, with a longer route for cyclists roads of Jatiluwih, overlooking the horizon of rice fields.
(5.5km) available as well.On clear, sunny
days, the climate in the area is fair. Being If you’re just after an afternoon stroll, the most accessible
700m above sea level the air here is cooler, route is without a doubt the Campuhan Ridge Walk in Ubud.
making for pleasant temperatures as you This charming little trek spans a comfortable 2km and takes
walk. As you wander through across the you across the palm-lined spine of ridge, overlooking two
terraced ridges and valleys, backdropped valleys. Paved the whole way, it’s an easy route that offers
by Tabanan’s rolling hillsides, you’ll see fresh air and verdant views of the Ubud jungle surroundings.
many farmers working on their near You can start at Pura Gunung Lebah temple at the centre of
perfect plots. You’ll find two eateries Ubud, or from the Keliki side of the ridge, just outside the
inside the terrace area, which make for a town centre, thus requiring you to walk one way and back
great lunch of refreshment break; or you again to get back to where you started.
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Family-Fun at
BALI’S BEST PARKS
Here in Bali there are some great destinations to keep kids entertained
for the entire day. The island is home to many family-friendly parks,
which make for a memorable excursion for both kids and adults. From
waterparks to bird parks, elephant sanctuaries to safaris, there’s plenty
of choice for a fun family day out.
Waterbom has added 4 new slides to their previous total of 22, Open daily from 9am to 6pm.
ranging from moderate to extreme, tubes to open tubes, body +62 361 755 676
mats to kiddy slides, and many more. If you’re a bit of the daredevil, info@waterbom-bali.com
the waterpark has three slides on the extreme side that utilise the waterbom-bali.com
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The elephant tour is something both kids and adults Open daily from 10am to 5pm.
will love as you’ll get the chance to get up close and +62 361 721 480
personal with the elephants. During the tour, visitors will info@masonadventures.com
be able to observe, hand-feed, touch and take photos masonadventures.com
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BALI SAFARI
Located in the Gianyar Regency, this park is a
unique destination for families — Bali Safari, a
leading animal conservation park in Indonesia
under the Taman Safari Indonesia group.
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KEMENUH BUTTERFLY PARK The park features a cool and shaded Tropical
Garden with various blooming orchid plants
Have you ever seen a garden full of butterflies flying from and a mini zoo with various aviaries and
flower to flower, sucking the nectar or simply hovering animals. The Butterfly House is a conservation
beyond the plants? Located in Kemenuh, Gianyar Regency, facility that houses over 500 butterflies of
Kemenuh Butterfly Park is a great attraction to take your kids different species. You and your children will be
on a fun, educational and visually-striking day out. amazed and entranced by the colourful and
diverse butterflies roaming freely throughout
Tucked amidst lush rice fields, Kemenuh Butterfly Park the facility. You’ll also encounter various
focuses on the conservation and education of butterflies. species of insects, including grasshoppers
and beetles.
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Outdoor
FAMILY ADVENTURES
One of the best things about Bali is that it offers a whole host of outdoor
experiences, great for children and adults alike. With its rugged and
mountainous landscape filled with verdant forests, down to the coastline
where white sands and sparkling seas await, the island is one giant
playground for the adventurous soul.
LEARN TO SURF
What’s a more iconic outdoor experience than
surfing in Bali? The island’s south coast is blessed
with a variety of surf breaks, from beach to reef,
meaning this classic water sport is accessible for
beginners, amateurs and pros. With that, Rip Curl
School of Surf is the perfect jumping-off point for
those keen to hit the waves for the first time.
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CANYON TUBING
Explore the depths of a hidden canyon in the most unique the canyon, filled with crystal-clear
way possible: tubing down its centre! Also run by Bali Quad waters. This is where you’ll jump into
Discovery Tours, the adventure starts with an exciting off- an individual inflatable tube and
road transfer that will take you from the base to the head of float through the stunning canyon
surroundings.
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HORSEBACK RIDING
Another fun way to enjoy Bali’s great outdoors is
on horseback! Surrounded by temples, and just a
stone’s throw away from the Canggu beachfront, is
Royal Sporthorse Bali, a stable providing a variety
of horseback tours as well as riding lessons.
Starting from the stables, you’ll be taken around
the Pererenan area, down to the beach, and
passing through villages and rice fields along the
way. On the beach, riders can enjoy the pleasant
sea breeze and even take their horse into the
cooling seas and waters for a dip.
SNORKELLING
Most of Bali’s south coast is dominated by surf beaches, Bali’s coral reefs. Through their
but over in Sanur, the Rip Curl School of Surf invites collaboration with the NGO ‘Ocean
you not only to snorkel but to support the recovery of Gardener’, as well as neighbouring
Prama Beach Hotel Sanur, they have
installed the first Coral Gardner
nursery on the reefs of Sanur Beach.
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F EATU R E
I
sland Camps at AYANA Estate elevates the summer camp aged seven to 12, the program includes a
experience through a collaboration with two global leaders series of daily activities which can also be
in holistic childhood education, creating two specialised combined to create multi-day experiences.
programs. The first is Guidepost at AYANA, in collaboration
with Guidepost Montessori, that immerse children aged two to six As its name suggests, Green Camp activities
into a week-long authentic Montessori curricula experience. The are designed to develop awareness of
second is Green Camp AYANA, featuring daily activities designed sustainability and encourage creativity
to foster a love for nature among children aged seven to 12. amongst children, helping them to foster
respect for and an understanding of the
natural world as well as different cultures.
ABOUT GUIDEPOST AT AYANA
With a mission to guide, empower and nurture independence What makes Island Camps at AYANA Estate
in children during their early years, Guidepost Montessori is so unique is that it brings these two, highly
a global network of schools helping young children develop educational ‘summer camp’ experiences
academic, social and emotional skills, as well as a love for into their lush, 90-hectare grounds, home to
learning. These educational values are at the core of the four award-winning resorts. By making the
Guidepost at AYANA programs, which will run for week-long programs so accessible to guests, parents too
themes: connection to nature, awe for the underwater world, can enjoy some guilt-free time off, knowing
appreciating fresh food, and igniting cultural curiosity. that their children are not only in safe hands,
but are really enjoying themselves.
Led by seasoned Guidepost educators and specially-trained
Special stay offers are available for families
AYANA staff, Guidepost at AYANA offers holiday programming
enrolling the children in either of the
for short-term guests’ children aged two to six, and an extended
‘Island Camps by AYANA’ programs. For
program for families staying long-term on the island.
enrolment information visit ayana.com/bali/
ayanacamps to find out more.
GREEN CAMP AT AYANA
Once again partnering with Green Camp Bali, a nature-focused AYANA Estate
children’s program set up by the award-winning Green School Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran
Bali, AYANA Estate brings their specialised experiences into their +62 361 702222
resort grounds with Green Camp AYANA. Catered for children ayana.com/bali
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INDOOR ACTIVITIES
and Experiences
Summer holidays in Bali are, of course, often spent outdoors under the
sun. However, if you’re looking to take a break from the heat, or indeed
the weather suddenly becomes unfavourable, there’s still plenty of
engaging experiences found indoors across the island. Get crafty, get
creative, stay active, these indoor pastimes will keep kids and families
seriously engaged and entertained.
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BOWLING
Get excited for this old-time classic
activity that brings friends and family
closer together. A favourite of Bali’s
indoor activities is chasing those
strikes and spares with a bit of ten-pin
bowling!
CERAMIC WORKSHOP
The ceramics classes at Kevala Studio Ceramic
is the perfect introduction to pottery. Located
on a quiet street in Sanur, it is an intimate and
relaxed studio space dedicated to the medium
of clay, offering 7 different ceramic workshops.
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TRAMPOLINING can free-bounce and practice tricks all day, or they can join
organised activities.
Another way to exercise while having
fun is provided at Bali’s first trampoline A perfect go-to for a thrilling adrenaline-pumping outing
centre, found at the Finns Recreation Club. with the entire family, Bounce Bali also caters to bookings
Unlike home trampolines, Bounce Bali has for special occasions with packages for birthdays, corporate
specially designed, spring-loaded frames events, holiday parties and more.
allowing users to bounce, jump, flip and
dunk higher than you have before! All
frames and springs are covered by 2-inch +62 811 388 2015
thick safety pads for extra protection. Kids bouncereception@finnsrecclub.com | bouncebali.com
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CHOCOLATE WORKSHOP
What’s something that always gets every child
(and even adults) excited? Sweets, of course!
If you’re a great fan of chocolates, Bali is home
to one of the finest chocolate brands on the
island: Junglegold Bali, a 100% plant-based
direct-trade chocolate brand!
JEWELLERY-MAKING
If you’re keen on learning one of the most
intricate, unique and fun crafts you can
experience in Bali, jewellery-making should
be on your list! Silver and jewellery-making
has been one of the longest crafts in Balinese
culture spanning many generations past and
you can learn this age-old craft at SUNSRI
House of Jewellery.
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F EATU R E
Bali’s Family-friendly
BEACH CLUBS
The summertime calls for fun family times under the sun and one of the
most popular pastimes during a holiday in Bali is spending leisurely
days at one of the island’s top beach clubs. But not all beach clubs are
made the same! To make sure you don’t accidentally end up at one of
Bali’s bumping day clubs, we’ve curated a list of family-friendly beach
clubs, where great food, drinks and games can be enjoyed by both
parents and children alike.
Daybeds and sun loungers are spread across the soft sand
beach, providing guests with a serene beach hotspot to +62 811 3829 3360
unwind and bask under the Bali sun. A great place to bring reservations@karmabeach.com
the family, Karma Beach Bali offers a series of fun activities @karmabeachclubs
56 | www.nowbali.co.id
F EATU R E
www.nowbali.co.id | 57
F EATU R E
58 | www.nowbali.co.id
F EATU R E
www.nowbali.co.id | 59
F EATU R E
Bali’s Best
KIDS CLUBS
Taking the family on a summer escape to the island of the gods is
always a great idea. However, as parents know, travelling with kids can
be a challenge: keeping them constantly entertained and tending to
their every need! Luckily, Bali has a superb collection of professional
kids clubs that can care for young ones, offering excellent facilities and
stimulating activities s that parents can enjoy some adult quality time!
60 | www.nowbali.co.id
F EATU R E
A palatial luxury resort like The Apurva Kempinski The club also provides various fun toys
Bali certainly has all of the facilities expected the little ones can play with at the indoor
of a five-star destination, including a fantastic playground. There are also optional paid
oasis for young guests to retreat to. The resort’s programmes offered including batik painting,
Jalak Family Club draws inspiration from the doughnut and cookie decorations, and tie-
methodical approach of Montessori, wherein dye t-shirt making.
education is based on self-directed activity and
hands-on learning. The club presents wide- Additionally, kids can enjoy a jolly good time
ranging activities that cater to the diverse needs at the fantastic outdoor playground, where
of children, teens and their families amidst the there is a lot of recreational equipment
resort facilities. installed that can help them stay active and
develop their physical coordination strength
Offering a visually striking tree house-inspired and flexibility. They can also take a dip in the
space, the little ones will stay entertained family pool which features waterslides that will
with fun and interactive activities to keep surely leave a lasting impression. Jalak Family
them engaged both indoors and outdoors. Club is open daily from 8am to 8pm.
Accompanied by experienced staff members,
the activities offered at the club include movie
times, fun traditional Indonesian games +62 361 209 2288
such as congklak, ular naga, lompat tali, and kempinski.com/bali
www.nowbali.co.id | 61
F EATU R E
HARD ROCK HOTEL BALI For the younger kids, TABU Teens Club
is a unique venue dedicated to young
Situated on the iconic Kuta beachfront, Hard Rock adults aged 13-17 years old. Featuring
Hotel Bali has long been one of the most beloved a spacious 252 sqm venue, TABU has an
destinations for families. Featuring stylish, modern Internet and Gaming Lounge with Xbox
and visually-appealing rooms and suites, the hotel’s Connect, PS4 with VR, a large cinema
vibrant ambience isn’t the only reason why this space, a bar and lounge with a pool table
accommodation is favoured amongst families as and other games. Open from 10am to
it features some of the best facilities on the island 6pm, access to TABU is free of charge.
specifically for the young guests.
For the little ones under 4 years old, the
In addition to its expansive free-form swimming pool, LULLABY Playroom is an indoor playroom
Kids WaterPark and slides, children can experience found at the back of the TABU Teens
exciting experiences at its various kids clubs. The Club. Here, they can enjoy an array of
ROXITY Kids Club is a drop-off-only Kids Club for kids educational toys and games provided
aged 4-12 years old, where no parents or adults are in the colourful playroom, fitted with
allowed. Supervised by experienced staff, kids will stay play mats and cosy cushions. Open daily
occupied with a series of exciting games and activities from 10am to 5pm, the kids must be
including Lego building, arts & crafts activities, Play- accompanied by parents or guardians at
Doh modelling, Balinese dancing, treasure hunts, the LULLABY Playroom.
and pizza-making to sports games and rock climbing.
Open daily from 9am to 6pm, the ROXITY Kids Club
offers several prices and packages that include goodie +62 361 761 869
bags, a daily set lunch and a lanyard name tag. hardrockhotels.com/bali
62 | www.nowbali.co.id
F EATU R E
BALI DYNASTY RESORT movies, video games, billiards, foosball or simply chill
out with no parents around.
Bali Dynasty Resort in Kuta is well-known
as a go-to destination for families on The resort also has a new games room located behind
holidays. The resort has recently renovated the lobby. Designed to cater to teenagers (and even
its Kupu-Kupu Kids Club featuring a new adults), the game room is equipped with the latest
concept equipped with improved modern high-tech games including virtual reality games,
facilities and activities that accommodate PlayStations, and more.
kids of all ages.
To keep the kids entertained, the resort has curated
With a design aptly themed around the a series of daily educational and cultural activities
concept of ‘kupu-kupu’ (butterflies), kids that will ensure kids have plenty of educational fun.
can enjoy fun-filled days in the spacious and Additionally, there are various thrilling outdoor
colourful venue under the safe supervision activities such as Water Pillow Fights, High-Splash
of the experienced and qualified staff, Contests, Watermelon Eating Contests, and more.
giving parents peace of mind knowing
their little ones are attended to as they relax Kupu-Kupu Kids Club is located within the resort’s
and unwind. In-house guests can enjoy free kid’s area, which also features the Kids Water Fun
access to the kids club. Zone, equipped with a large freeform pool, a
56-metre giant caterpillar waterslide, a mini waterpark
Promoting the philosophy to ‘Make Friends and a playground area with swings, a climbing frame,
for Life!’, the two-storey kids club is split a seesaw, slides and a trampoline. Babysitting services
into different age categories. The younger are also available. Kupu-Kupu Kids Club is open daily
kids aged 4-9 years old can have fun on from 9am to 6pm.
the ground floor where games, education
and cultural activities are offered, while
the older kids aged 10-16 years old can +62 361 752 403
head upstairs to the Den Teen Club and bdr.pphotels.com
keep themselves busy with board games,
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F EATU R E
MELIÃ BALI
Nestled along the pristine Nusa Dua coastline, Meliã Bali is
a popular accommodation for vacationing families due to
its Balinese elegance, stylish rooms and suites, collection
of restaurants and bars, and its stunning beachfront
location with direct access to the pearly white sand beach.
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F EATU R E
THE WESTIN RESORT NUSA kids’ Travel Journals to the Local Activity Guide, the
Westin Family offerings are curated to engage, inspire
DUA, BALI and celebrate young travellers and their families. The
kids club provide plenty of fun activities that will excite
The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali is renowned as a young guests. These activities include stargazing, wall
family-friendly resort with facilities and services catering climbing, keychain-making, flying kites, nail art, and
to all of its guests including the young ones. The resort’s paper puppetry among many others.
Westin Family Kids Club is a hub for children where they
can enjoy immersive experiences with games, toys and Kids can also enjoy a day of pampering at the Westin
enriching activities in a supervised centre. Kids Spa located just outside of the kids club. The
spa offers a nurturing menu of mini-manicures, hair
Tucked amidst a tranquil garden corner shaded by braiding and special holiday treatments.
tropical greenery, the kids club features a toddler
area, toddler playground, Kids Discovery Room, and
Kids Playground, complete with slides and swings, +62 361 771 906 | westinnusaduabali.com
facilities that will ensure the little ones have an
exceptionally enjoyable time. There is also the Mini
Zoo, where kids can not only pet and feed rabbits,
but learn how to care for animals from an early age.
At the Teen Zone, the older kids can enjoy their own
space. Decorated with “The Island’s Adventures”
murals by Florto Studio, consisting of several inspiring
local illustrators under the leadership of prominent
Balinese illustrator, Monez. The mural’s design merges
the imaginative worlds of adolescents and Balinese
culture by incorporating expressive and colourful
moods combined with Balinese and game elements.
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D I N I NG
A ‘MOZAIC’
Of Dining Experiences
T
TEXT BY EDWARD SPEIRS he name is legendary in Bali’s food and beverage scene, considered at first a
pioneer and later an institution of fine dining offerings on the island. Opened
20 years ago, Founder Chef Chris Salans, knew he needed something
really fresh for the post-pandemic return of the restaurant. Thus, he called former
Mozaic Restaurant Mozaic chef Blake Thornley to arms, now a partner and driving force. Together,
in Ubud has the two chefs have introduced an all-new concept since they reopened in 2022,
transforming each area of the venue into an experience of its own.
experienced a
wealth of changes, The Dining Room
from its interiors to
its menu. The latest The core of Mozaic has always been its degustation menus, where Chris’ original
concept of Indonesian ingredients introduced as French haute cuisine comes
developments have to life. Whilst that core concept remains, the new vision aims to present a more
transformed the relaxed dining environment.
classic restaurant The al-fresco dining area has been enclosed, brightened up and cooled down.
into a multi-dining Gone are the white tablecloths, replaced by chic wooden furnishings, with light
destination, with green finishings to respect Mozaic’s natural garden feel, which indeed remains.
three distinct “I wanted the menu to be more fun, more experiential,” shares Chef Blake, who hopes
experiences to this new Mozaic is less intimidating for curious diners. The Dining Room features two
discover: The new degustation menus, a Seasonal Menu and Botanical Menu (vegetarian) available
as both 6- and 8-courses.
Tasting Rooms, The
Dining Room and There is more interaction with the chefs now, who serve the last touches at the
table. “Each dish has a lot of different textures to experience,” explains Blake as
The Chef’s Table. he serves the ‘Kingfish Ham’, a delicate flower of radish and kingfish at the centre
of the plate. He pours a clarified gazpacho around it, and, from a smoking pot, he
throws in chips of tomato granita (frozen in liquid nitrogen), to complete the now
misty lotus pond. The ‘Seared Scallop’ is also a real stand-out dish, served in fresh
parsley sauce with tapioca pearls, a rich crab mousse and coconut foam.
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D I N I NG
More inventive still are the dishes from the featuring an a la carte menu of inventive dishes. “This is a neo-bistro,
Botanical Menu. ‘Pomelo Lard’is an example of where we serve premium ingredients in unconventional ways,” shares
ingenuity, as charred cauliflower in a smooth Blake. Bites range from Caviar Doughnuts to Tuna Collar, very ‘Non-
curry paste is served alongside pomelo skin, French’, the chefs explain. The bar features Seasonal Cocktails and
but burned then hydrated for hours, swelling instead of a wine list, guests are asked to browse the purpose-built
to create a texture of ‘fat’ with a citrus-bitter wine room and pick a bottle they like from the shelves. Opening to
flavour. Quite unlike anything you’ve had in your the wee hours, it›s set to be a place to sip and nibble in style with a
mouth, and yet still a delicious combination of suave-yet-laidback atmosphere.
flavours. Another curious dish is the Frozen
Burrata, served as a dessert alongside candied
beetroot and olive. Three savoury ingredients,
The Chef’s Table
reimagined, and delicious.
On the far side of Mozaic, in a cosy room overlooking the Ubud rice
fields, Mozaic’s most refined experience awaits. This private dining
I could share more about every dish, but this
room is where diners can witness the height of culinary creativity
would ruin the surprise. The above serve
and watch as the Mozaic chefs cook directly in front of them at the
as an example of the inventiveness one can
showcase kitchen.
expect, none of which steals from the fabulous
flavours.
Open for lunch (5-course) and dinner (7-course), The Chef’s Table is
made to feel exclusive and intimate, serving dishes reserved for this
To highlight the experiential and more casual
room, such as the ‘Foie Gras Snow’, with cured duck, pickled beetroot
Mozaic, Blake invites diners out to the courtyard
and kluwek.
for one course, where his ‘Fire Pit’ grills up
another dish in the open air, a moment to
So, Mozaic is home to three distinct destinations: from the relaxed
stretch your legs… and make room for more!
Tasting Rooms, experiential Dining Room and refined Chef’s Table,
the experience evolves and elevates as you continue through the
The Tasting Rooms restaurant. The new concept invites a wider range of diners to discover
the flavours and creations of Mozaic, as they highlight premium
This is the new iteration of the Mozaic Lounge, ingredients and local Indonesian spices in new exciting ways.
found upon entry. Completely renovated with
an open kitchen by Nayati, a walk-in wine
room and a full bar. Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomic
Jl. Raya Sangginan, Ubud
This is for those who want a taste of Mozaic +62 821 4723 5550 (WA)
but without the full degustation experience, mozaic-bali.com
www.nowbali.co.id | 67
D I N I NG
A BEACHFRONT IZAKAYA
SugarSand, the vibrant beachfront eatery that has been a beloved Seminyak
destination since its inception in 2018, has recently undergone a remarkable
conceptual transformation. Under the helm of the new head chef, Syamsul
Rizal, the venue now offers an exhilarating dining experience that still carries
the same suave atmosphere but with new bites and fresh imbibes. This is
SugarSand re-mastered!
N
estled along Seminyak’s golden coastline, renowned
for its spellbinding ocean views, SugarSand invites
guests into a world of enchantment and indulgence.
Chef Syamsul Rizal, armed with his vast culinary expertise from
his experiences across the globe, has crafted an entirely new
lunch, dinner, and cocktail menu that promises to tantalise
guests’ taste buds.
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D I N I NG
www.nowbali.co.id | 69
DINING
BALI'S
NEWEST BITES AND SIPS
AMICI BY ENRICO BARTOLINI
restaurant’s exquisitely designed space intertwines
earth tones with timber-lined interiors and high
ceilings. It features an open-view kitchen and a
S
eminyak welcomes a new addition with the opening of AMICI private dining space capable of accommodating
by Enrico Bartolini. This sophisticated Italian dining venue is the up to 10 guests. AMICI’s expansive terrace hosts
brainchild of the esteemed 12 Michelin-star Chef Enrico Bartolini. a captivating open bar, adorned with inviting
lounge furniture, brass embellishments, and lush
Paying homage to the rich food culture of Italy, AMICI captures greenery to set the scene.
generations of classic dishes passed down through time. The
AMICI’s meticulously curated menu, crafted by Chef
Enrico and executed by Chef Alessandro D’amico,
takes guests on an unforgettable gastronomic
journey. Signature dishes such as the Pizza Burrata
& Capocollo, Ravioli d’Anatra, and Torta Tenerina
showcase AMICI’s dedication to serving authentic
Italian flavours.
H
ailing from Singapore, The Flying Squirrel brings its
innovative sushi bar concept to the island of the gods.
Tucked away in a corner along Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak,
this new restaurant serves up a range of bespoke sushi and sashimi
platters, with Balinese-inspired creations, as well as an array of
Japanese comfort favourites.
Here in Bali, The Flying Squirrel spreads its wings with a more
expansive venue. The restaurant offers a wide-ranging menu,
open from breakfast to dinner. Breakfast (8am - 11am) includes a
selection of breakfast sets (Indonesian, Western and Japanese) and
a la carte options. Their main a la carte menu (11am to closing) is
where The Flying Squirrel really shines, displaying a comprehensive
list of fresh sushi and sashimi options. Then you’ll find options for
Maki and Temaki rolls, and combo sets with platters and chirashi
rice bowl selections available. Squirrel features eclectic signature cocktails, wines,
and also a selection of Japanese sake.
Really innovative, fusion-style dishes come alive with their Starters,
Tapas and Tacos selections, featuring unique creations like ‘Wagyu
Scotch Eggs’, to ‘Balinese Pulled Pork Seaweed Tacos’. Dinner-sharing Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak
platters and mains are available too, like ‘Soft Shell Crab’, ‘Creamy +62 811 3827 7773 | @theflyingsquirrelbali
Egg Yolk Tiger Prawns’ and ‘Butter Clam Udon’. The bar at The Flying theflyingsquirrelbali.com
70 | www.nowbali.co.id
DINING
BARBAROSSA SEMINYAK
O
pening in Seminyak Village Mall, Barbarossa
Seminyak welcomes guests to indulge in the
vibrant cuisines of Italy, Spain, France and the
Mediterranean region; expanding from their already
popular Sanur venue.
N
great produce sourced at Barbarossa. But diners
estled within a secluded aromatic herb garden at
can indulge in hearty mains like Magret de Canard
the heart of Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran
(pan-seared duck breast) and Médaillion de Boeuf
Bay, TELU celebrates modern mixology that pays
á la Bourguignon (pan-seared beef in bourguignon
homage to Bali’s heritage, environment and people.
sauce). The rustic, wood-fired pizzas are a favourite
Meaning ‘three’ in Balinese, TELU is a reflection of the
at Barbarossa as well, with unique toppings that
Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Kirana that teaches the
reflect the sun-kissed flavours of the Mediterranean.
three pillars of well-being, i.e. our relationship with each
other, nature and the cosmos.
Barbarossa Seminyak also caters to the preferences
of its guests with a thoughtfully curated selection of
This huge undertaking has been spearheaded by Bar
wines, expertly chosen to complement the diverse
Manager, Jan Jurecka and addresses sustainability and
flavours presented in each dish.
locality in many ways. Selected drinks on TELU’s menu
raise funds for Balinese organisations, including Sungai
Watch who tackles river pollution; Bali Children’s Project
which helps Balinese youth escape poverty through
education; and Ocean Gardener, a coral reef restoration
project.
www.nowbali.co.id | 71
DINING
F
ollowing the success of Bulgari Hotel Milano’s Dom Pérignon amidst the tranquil ambience and lush tropical
Lounge & Raw Bar and La Terrazza Dom Pérignon Lounge in surroundings, reminiscent of a secret Roman
Ginza, Tokyo, Bulgari Resort Bali and Dom Pérignon presents garden. Diners can revel in Mediterranean-
the summer-only Domenica Italiana programme at Sangkar inspired bites including cured Hamachi,
Restaurant and an intimate dining experience at La Terrazza Lounge. burrata cheese, and Vitello tomato as you
Diners can savour tantalising dishes inspired by the Mediterranean enjoy front-row seats to catch the golden
coast along with Dom Pérignon Champagne at both venues. sunsets, accompanied by Dom Pérignon.
Available every Sunday starting from 9 July onwards, indulge in The exclusive Dom Pérignon x Bulgari
the exquisite culinary offerings of Domenica Italiana at Sangkar summer experience is available from July
Restaurant. Drawing inspiration from the Italian Sunday lunch until 30 September 2023. Reservations are
culture, a beloved tradition that sees families and friends gather recommended due to limited seating.
over leisurely and sumptuous meals. Deeply rooted in Italy’s
rich culinary heritage, this weekly gathering is a celebration of
food and connection. Bulgari Resort Bali
Jl. Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu
Guests can dive into the flavours of Italian cuisine featuring a +62 361 847 1000
lavish spread of freshly baked bread and antipasti chockfull bulgarihotels.com
72 | www.nowbali.co.id
DINING
S
erving breakfast, lunch and dinner, Rüsters’ restaurant welcomes
a flurry of all-day diners through its doors. On the breakfast and
lunch menu, you’ll find a variety of dishes from their ‘Breakfast
Burrito’ with premium Spanish chorizo, to ‘Korean Fried Chicken
Waffles’, ‘Souvlaki Wrap’ and ‘Fried Goat Cheese Salad’ — everything is
made fresh with high-quality ingredients. At dinner, the menu shifts into
a sharing-style concept, great for gathering with friends; plus options
of a set tasting menu as well as a la carte specialities. Mix and match a Rüsters
selection of creations by the restaurant’s Danish head chef, who serves Jl. Raya Kengetan 44, Ubud
European classics with an Asian twist: ‘Laksa Seafood Tortellini’, ‘Crispy +62 811 3804 341
Duck in Bao Bun’, ‘Local Oysters with Chilli Ponzu’ and much more. @rustersbali | rusters.com
www.nowbali.co.id | 73
DINING
A
s one of the island’s most popular brunch experiences, the
Cucina Brunch at Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort has Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort
become a weekend ritual for many. Continuously looking for Lot N5, ITDC Tourism Complex Nusa Dua
new ways to impress and entice their guests, their brunch experience +62 811 3820 3740 | fb.reservation@sofitelba-
has now been extended with their additional ‘Seaside Delight’, an linusadua.com
additional 2-hour indulgence on the Nusa Dua beachfront. sofitelbalinusadua.com
W
hat’s a more indulgent way to spend your
mornings than breakfast with bubbles?
You can enjoy exactly that at Kuta Social
Club, where they’ve launched the Breakfast &
Bubbles package perched high above the palms of
the Kuta coastline.
74 | www.nowbali.co.id
DINING
EMBER BY FIRE:
W BALI-SEMINYAK’S NEW
BRUNCH RITUAL
S
etting a new dining experience alight, W Bali -
Seminyak’s FIRE Restaurant unveils their special
brunch ritual known as ‘Ember by Fire’, a lavish à la
carte feast highlighting flavours of the flame.
SEASONAL FLAVOURS IN
IL RISTORANTE - LUCA
FANTIN’S NEW MENU
O
ne way to experience the exclusive Bulgari
Resort Bali is to book a table at Il Ristorante -
Luca Fantin and immerse oneself in a decadent
dining experience up on the cliffs of Uluwatu.
www.nowbali.co.id | 75
DINING
WIDYA’S WINES
C
hardonnay from Chateau Montelena, vintage
1973, and Cabernet Sauvignon Stag›s Leap
Wine Cellars Vintage 1973 won the highest
marks, and this changed the whole perception
of Californian wines. The documentary ‘Bottle Shock’
tells the story of this very well.
76 | www.nowbali.co.id
DINING
KERTAWIDYAWATI
Domaine Drouhin
Oregon Roserock Widya is a WSET Certified Educator / Head
Chardonnay of Hatten Education Center. Recently
she published ‘Tasting Journeys of a
Sommelier’, a wine-drinker’s companion to
tastings; and also broke a new Indonesian
record on 20 June 2023 for ‘wine-tasting
event with the most participants (205
attendees)’. Head to kertawidyawati.id to
find out more.
www.nowbali.co.id | 77
ROOM RAIDER
R I T U A L S A N D R O YA L S E R V I C E A T
St. Regis
Other than its enviable location on the pristine beachfront of Nusa Dua, staying
in the One-Bedroom Strand Villa at The St. Regis Bali Resort opens up a wealth
of indulgences that make guests feel like they’re royalty.
T
he St. Regis brand harkens back to a bygone era, Bali itself is renowned for warm hospitality,
founded by the Astors, a family at the peak of marrying perfectly with the timeless traditions
New York aristocracy back in the 1900s. Service of the brand. These two worlds come together
and experience were of utmost importance, as at The St. Regis Bali Resort, where exceptional
founder John Jacob Astor IV, as well as his mother Lady service and tropical luxury are abundant.
Caroline Astor, knew how to treat their guests — i.e. the
creme de la creme of society. Out of this emerged a The resort puts itself on display from the lobby,
philosophy of service that remains legendary to this day, where guests checking in are welcomed by
and is best described in this contemporary era as ‘classic a stretching view down the palm-lined ‘Fire
hospitality’. Garden’, all the way to the beach. This is
78 | www.nowbali.co.id
ROOM RAIDER
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ROOM RAIDER
O
n this issue’s Room Raider, we’ll with nuances of nature and traditional Balinese elements
be highlighting the resort’s most through planes of wood, water, stone and rattan, where
opulent category: the Three- the expansive living areas connect to the relaxation
Bedroom Cliff Edge Villa. The pavilions and pools via walkways and bridges. The villa is
breathtaking villa enjoys 3000 sqm of living, also designed and constructed under an environmentally
sleeping and relaxing space, accommodating sustainable framework as showcased by the unique flat
guests with an expansive secluded haven in lava rock roofs and bamboo ceilings, which enable the
ultimate comfort, complete with million-dollar cool ocean breeze to flow through all the rooms.
views. The massive scale of this villa will make
you feel like you’re living in your own private The perfect choice to accommodate families and large
tropical compound. groups, the Three-Bedroom Cliff Edge Villa, sleeping up
to 6 people, has spacious bedrooms equipped with king-
The villa features an open-plan concept, sized beds with indoor and outdoor showers as well as
showcasing contemporary interiors elevated separate bathtubs.
80 | www.nowbali.co.id
ROOM RAIDER
www.nowbali.co.id | 81
CULTURE CORNER
Balinese culture appears in many forms. It is both tangible (dances, temples,
ceremonies) and intangible (beliefs, creativity, personal connection). Bali’s is
without a doubt one of the richest, most vibrant, active.
82 | www.nowbali.co.id
THE LOCAL TONGUE
The best way to connect to any local person, be it in Bali or Barcelona, is to
speak the local tongue! So, we’ve teamed up with BASAbali to share some
easy-to-use Balinese phrases for when you’re roaming around the island. You’ll
see just how this simple effort will bring down barriers.
Om Swastyastu - May all be well with you (also used for “hello”)
Kenken kebare? - How are you?
Tiang becik. - I’m fine.
Nyen adanne? - What is your name?
Adan titiange Wayan - My name is Wayan
Uli dija? - Where are you from?
Tiang uli Amerika. - I’m from America.
Luas kija? - Where are you going?
Tiang lakar mayah. - I’d like to pay.
Tiang lakar majalan ka peken. - I want to go to the market.
Enu joh? - Is it still far away?
Dija kamar kecil? - Where is the bathroom?
Aji kuda akilo? - How much is the price of one kilo?
Matur suksma. - Thank you.
Suksma mewali. - You are welcome.
Dumugi kacunduk malih. - Goodbye/see you.
www.nowbali.co.id | 83
CULTURE CORNER | TYPICAL BALI
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CULTURE CORNER | TYPICAL BALI
Lembu
THE BULL SARCOPHAGUS
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY EDWARD SPEIRS
F
If one is lucky or the Balinese Hindu, the journey of the soul is
of utmost importance. Through life, death and
enough to thereafter, the soul moves through the cycles of
witness a Balinese reincarnation, samsara, and much of ritual life
is dedicated to its smooth passage through certain
cremation, milestones.
especially that
As such, the Balinese cremation ceremony is certainly
of a high caste, a highlight on the soul’s ritual calendar. Known as
one will see ngaben for ‘lower caste’, or pelebon for higher castes,
the cremation is the ‘climax’ in a series of death rites.
the impressive The death rites, include ceremonies before and after
animal-shaped the cremation and are necessary to release the soul,
or atman, from its worldly shell (i.e. one’s body) and
sarcophagi that send it successfully to heaven where it will await
are used as reincarnation.
‘vessels’ in this An important element of a Balinese cremation is a
ever-important sarcophagus. Unlike those of Ancient Egypt, these are
temporary vessels, not made to preserve the body but
death rite. rather accompany it as the body is burned.
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L
ocated in Bedulu, where the kingdoms among their people and so proactively set about to bridge
of ancient Bali were once centred, the the divisions.
spacious Pura Samuan Tiga sprawls
across the verdant terrain of inland Queen Mahendradatta, who was of East Javan royalty,
Gianyar. According to ancient manuscripts called for the assistance of the ‘Panca Pandita’, five
(the Lontar Tatwa Shiva), the temple was built legendary holy priests. Who came is a figure of legend in
during the reign of King Candrabhayasingha Bali, a name recognised to this day: Mpu Kuturan.
Warmadewa, placing its construction some
time in the 10th century. Mpu Kuturan called for a meeting amongst the sects,
asking them to gather at the central temple (Pura Pentaran)
Initially, the temple’s name was Pura Gunung of the kingdom, which was Pura Gunung Goak. From this
Goak, but this all changed after an important gathering, Mpu Kuturan introduced the concept of Trimurti,
meeting took place there. Temples in Bali get a way to honour the three major deities: Brahma, Wisnu and
their names because of a place, a purpose Siwa. Out of this came the establishment of the ‘Kahyangan
or indeed to commemorate an important Tiga’ (three places of worship), a temple for each deity in
moment: and the latter explains why Pura every village: Pura Desa (village temple) for Brahma, Pura
Gunung Goak became Pura Samuan Tiga. Puseh (centre temple) for Wisnu and Pura Dalem (death
The clue is in the name: samuan means unity temple) for Siwa.
(sangkep) and tiga refers to three. The unity of
the three. Through this new ‘architecture’ of temples and villages, the
major sects could all be appeased, seeing a ‘home’ for their
During the Ancient Bali Era — i.e. the period istadewata, and indeed finding a way to respect and pay
before the arrival of the Majapahit Empire homage to the istadewata of their neighbours.
— the island’s population were divided into
nine sects, each with their own istadewata, Essentially, this special meeting unified the island under
or main deity. The rulers at the time, King one practice and structure. The Trimurti philosophy and
Udayana Warmadewa and Queen Gunaprya the Kahyangan Tiga are in practice to this very day, a
Dharmapatni (also known as Mahendradatta), millenium later, making this temple deserving of its name,
saw this as a potential for conflict and instability Pura Samuan Tiga: the unity of three.
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CULTURE CORNER | HISTORY
Indonesian Fruits
THROUGH THE EYES OF EARLY EXPLORERS
AND BOTANISTS
BY SAKE SANTEMA, INDIES GALLERY
Indonesia is known for its vibrant markets which boast a rich variety of
fruits, or ‘buah’. From luscious mangosteens to spiky durian, fruits play an
important part in Indonesian cuisine. While Indonesians have cherished these
delights for centuries, it was the first European explorers and botanists who
introduced these exotic fruits to the rest of the world. Sake Santema, owner
of Indies Gallery, delves into the world of antique botanical prints featuring
Indonesian fruits, showcasing a few treasures from his collection.
P
rior to the development of greenhouses during the Later, the Dutch East Indies company (VOC)
17th and 18th centuries, paintings and drawings recognised the value of indigenous medicinal
were really the only reference of exotic ‘Far East’ plants for the treatment of tropical diseases, which
fruits for Europeans. However, early depictions led to better efforts to document tropical plants in
of fruits suffered from inaccuracies, as they were often detail. One of these detailed publications is Hortus
sketched from memory. Transporting fresh fruit back to Malabaricus (Garden of Malabar), published in
Europe by ship proved impractical, as the return journey the year 1678 in Amsterdam, one of the earliest
alone took approximately 200 days, and dried spices published works on the flora of Southeast Asia,
were the only botanical goods that could withstand the with over 700 plants described with titles in Latin,
journey home. Sanskrit, Arabic and Malayalam.
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CULTURE CORNER | ART IN BALI
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respond, issuing 20 x 20 x 3–4 cm portions fastened together
ajoring in Fine Art at the Nanyang on an aluminium frame creating ‘Phantom’, a 150 x 150
Academy of Fine Art in Singapore, one of graphite black abstract composition with similarities to Balinese
the subjects Murti studied during his four traditional Patra floral designs. The 3D printing signature is
years at college was New Media Art. The angulated textures carved into plastic; Phantom appears as
genre includes digital art, interactive art, internet art, a dark yet intriguing underworld landscape. Murti has since
virtual art, art made using AI, robotics, video games, completed numerous works within this series featuring differing
biotechnology, 3D printing, computer animation; design aesthetics and textured surfaces, coloured with futuristic
any form of contemporary art created using new dynamic hues. His objective is to introduce unnatural colours to
technology. The subject ignited his already growing traditional carvings.
fascination for technology and the AI culture, and how
to empower his ideas and develop his practice with “I like to think of ‘Ghosts of Future’ as a visual representation
hi-tech digital tools. of what may happen if we become lazy enough to allow
technology to do our job, including preserving the culture,”
After returning to Bali in 2020 after four years in Murti told me. “I consider this series an antithesis of my
Singapore, along with vacations abroad, Murti had culture. I’m doing everything we shouldn’t do when it comes
become progressively sensitive to the vulnerabilities to preserving the legacy of the Balinese people.”
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CULTURE CORNER | CULTURE
Ngiring
ACCOMPANIED BY THE GODS
PART ONE OF ‘BALINESE TRANCE’ BY JEAN COUTEAU, PHOTOS BY EDWARD SPEIRS
Priest Paraphernalia
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T
hen, you have Wayan T., a well-known Balinese intellectual. That person will then set up a shrine in
He sits at my house and tells me in the privacy of my his or her house from which they will call
house that there is then the “original” Balinese religion, the god down on request to give advice
practiced by all those who never go to the high priests for to visitors. The medium then usually
the holy waters. They go instead to holy water spots themselves, functions as a balian, or a shaman. The
and direct their life following the advice not from the Brahmins, balian is, as Wayan T said above, the
but instead the balians — the shamans and trance mediums. principal priest of the old Balinese ways.
It is the balian that guides the Balinese
“This is the deepest, and most indigenous side of Balinese through life. This has little to do with
‘religion’, Pak Jean,” he tells me. “All the other layers are Hinduism. Hinduism may provide a
historical additions,” he adds. Instead of addressing prayers theoretical and theological framework,
to a cosmic God, like Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa, who to some but it is the veneration and deification of
may feel too abstract and distant, or indeed to a pantheon of local ancestors and the local worship of
Hindu deities; and instead of referring according to the rules natural elements as gods which governs
and rites of high priests; there are those who prefer to address much of Balinese life.
the gods directly. These gods, who are mostly ancestral souls,
are asked to come down and manifest themselves through the
balian and indeed other mediums, through whom instruction,
How the Balians Guide
advice, direction are given. This practice, at least in Western the Balinese Through Life
definition, would qualify as a type of ‘trance’ or ‘possession’.
Life is a passage. One is born when an
Let’s take a closer look at this phenomenon… There are all ancestral soul comes down. It then goes
sorts of possessions in Bali. The most common of which is through life trying to keep balance . This
ngiring, meaning exercising the ability to be ‘accompanied’ is the purpose of calendar rites, and of
by a god. The ability to “ngiring Ida Batara” (be accompanied offerings and ceremonies. After death the
by a god) is often obtained following an illness or other crisis, same soul goes back home. Where to? To
followed by a loss of consciousness, and a visit to some holy ‘tanah ane wayah’, the old country, a world
temple where this chosen person is then visited by a given above the high mountains. Here, the soul
god. This god is never an Indian-named god, but always a takes the form of ‘yeh’ (water), whilst they
god with a typical Balinese name, such as Batara Selat Tukad, await to be reincarnated in ‘gumi Bali’, or
“the gods from the opposite side of the river”. the world of Bali.
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For life to run smoothly, parents must inquire which soul to Hindu gods. This is done using holy
it is that has incarnated their baby. Because, unlike formal “water” from the water spots traditionally
Hinduism, one always incarnates among the members of used locally for generations.
one’s own family here in Bali. This identification is not too
difficult, as there are numerous balians and mediums who Alas, it does not always work. There are
are able to become ‘possessed’ (kerauhan) by godly forces illnesses, accidents, psychological distress.
at will. These are signs of imbalance. Then, what
does one do? A visit to a balian is required
12 days after the birth of a child, all parents in Bali go to a once again, to seek answers from the
balian, who shall tell the parents the significance of this birth. niskala. This summoned ancestor - again,
The parents usually will bring a small pejati offering. Once speaking through the balian - will have a
they have been introduced, the balian burns some pasepan, complaint of their own, accompanied by
a ceremonial wood incense, which he or she will inhale tears and shrieks: “Why have you and your
deeply whilst calling out a series of gods’ names (normally kin neglected me after I have passed away!”
mountains): God of Gunung Agung, God of Lempuyang, says a disgruntled uncle who disappeared
God of the ‘Opposite Valley’, and so on. At some point, the decades ago, and was thus never given the
balian will submit to an ‘incarnating soul’ who has come proper death and burial rites. He has been
down from above, taking control of the balian. The soul will stuck in purgatory, his ‘lost soul’ unable to
ask the parents that the purpose of their visit is: “What can I return to the top of the mountain to find
do for you, my dew?” the ancestral soul will ask (‘dew’ refers peace and await reincarnation. He has been
to the form that souls take upon death). the cause of the misfortunes and incidents;
best to appease him lest new woes follow!
The same voice will utter in a jumble of words — the signs
that will enable an identification of the soul that has It goes on like this through all life, with
entered the child. Perhaps a famous grand father, perhaps ceremonies to keep the balance, and
a forgotten great aunt. balian trance sessions whenever advice is
needed or something feels ‘off’. The last
Once satisfied in their quest, the parents take leave. They consultation is after death. Then, it is the
will then help the newborn to carry on with his/her life, newly dead person who is consulted. His/
including the related rites. All clearly defined by habit and her soul will come down using the same
calendar duties. procedure, even though the request will
be different: “ Children, don’t forget to give
The important point is that once the ancestor is identified, me a proper batik cloth, with a big jug of
it is on its way to life – and ultimately to death. Now a water, I will need on my way back home.”
person, he or she has to maintain the right balance
between the positive and negative forces of the niskala, This is how the soul travels: it comes down,
the unseen forces. For that purpose, he or she has to lives a life of rites, and then returns back
follow strictly defined calendar rites, most importantly to the old country. Samsara, the cycle of
those addressed to ancestors and local gods – never reincarnation continues.
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