Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Submitted
By
Hashmeet Kaur
I Ms. Hashmeet Kaur, hereby declare that the Graduation Research Project (GRP)
entitled “product development in an export house” is the result of my own research work
carried out by me during the period from January 2016 to April 2016 except as cited in
the references. This report has not been submitted to any other University or Institution
for award of any degree/diploma etc.
Signature
Name of the Student: Hashmeet Kaur
Date: 11th may’16
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CERTIFICATE
Signature
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Signature
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Contents
List of tables and figures ...........................................................................................................viii
Chapter 1: Introduction about the company ................................................................................. 1
Richa group ............................................................................................................................ 1
Company’s divisions ............................................................................................................... 1
Wovens division.................................................................................................................. 1
Knits division ...................................................................................................................... 2
Home furnishing divisions ................................................................................................... 2
1.1 Infrastructure ............................................................................................................... 3
Quality and R&D .................................................................................................................... 4
Clients .................................................................................................................................... 4
Chapter 2: Background of the project .......................................................................................... 7
About the project .................................................................................................................... 7
Project objectives .................................................................................................................... 7
Chapter 3: Review of literature.................................................................................................... 8
Textile industry in India ...................................................................................................... 8
Contribution to employment generation ............................................................................... 9
Chapter 4: Methodology ........................................................................................................... 10
4.1 Designing ........................................................................................................................ 10
4.1.1 Developing fashion designs ...................................................................................... 11
4.2 Merchandising................................................................................................................. 13
4.2.1 Merchandiser ............................................................................................................ 13
4.2.1.................................................................................................................................. 14
4.3 Product Development ...................................................................................................... 15
4.3.1 Roles and responsibilities of a merchandiser ............................................................. 16
4.4 Garment Sampling........................................................................................................... 16
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4.4.1 Sampling Process ..................................................................................................... 17
4.5 Department Structure ..................................................................................................... 17
Chapter5: Project Undertaken: .................................................................................................. 20
Product Development in an Export House ................................................................................. 20
5.1 PROJECT 1: RANGE DEVELOPMENT IN THE DESIGN DEPARTMENT ................. 20
Project’s objective ............................................................................................................. 22
Project description ............................................................................................................ 22
Range development process.............................................................................................. 23
Range development for Ann Taylor brand for spring/ summer’17 ..................................... 27
FINDINGS AND RECOMMENDED SOLUTIONS ..................................................................... 39
PROJECT 2: SAMPLING IN THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT ............................................ 42
Project description ............................................................................................................ 42
Role of the Department ..................................................................................................... 42
Activities of a Merchandiser .............................................................................................. 43
Workflow of Merchandising Department .......................................................................... 50
Findings and recommended solutions ................................................................................... 51
Chapter 6: Learning ................................................................................................................... 54
References ................................................................................................................................ 55
Appendices ............................................................................................................................... 56
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List of tables and figures
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Chapter 1: Introduction about the company
Richa group
Richa groupis a group of 2 companines:
Richa and Company was set up in the year 1977. The company is operating with its four
units located at Kirti Nagar (Delhi), Mayapuri (Delhi), Mangolpuri (Delhi) and Gurgaon.
It specializes in the manufacturing of woven readymade garments.
Gaurav international
Company’s divisions
Wovens division
The woven division of Richa Group is equipped with state-of-the-art technology.
Leveraging on its technical superiority and the expertise of the professionals, this division
has achieved an in-house annual production capacity of 15 million pieces.
Requirement of the clients is one of the foremost elements that determine the
specifications of the products. The preferences of the clients vary from place to place.
Besides, it keeps on changing from time to time. Keeping an account of all these aspects,
the woven division of Richa Group manufactures the products as per the market demand.
Through a wide range of woven products, Richa Group has earned the goodwill of
reputed brands from across the globe. Today, it boasts of its prestigious clients who are
importing products from it. Every year it is creating a newer image for itself by offering
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innovative woven products. Richa Group is exploring new markets of its woven products
across the world with a rich heritage, contemporary professionalism and high-end
technology.
Knits division
Richa Group has successfully created a superior foothold in the knit category too. The
total capacity of the Knits division is 1 million garments per year. It specializes in a
variety of products for men, women and kids including Polo T-shirts, Jackets, Ladies
knitted tops.
Richa Group is well accepted as a leading vendor of knitwear by the buyers from all the
major destinations of the world. Because of the world-class standards that it maintains
while manufacturing the products, it has become a reputed manufacturer of knitted
garments in the international arena. Many reputed brands have enriched the clientele of
the Richa Group. It speaks volumes of the level of efficiency that the knits division has
achieved.
Over the years, the division has developed an excellent infrastructure essential for
producing home furnishing products of international standards. It procures raw materials
from reputed vendors in order to maintain the best quality in all the products. Cutting-
edge technologies play a major role in the manufacturing process. Richa Group has taken
all possible steps to equip the home furnishing division with the latest technologies and
the best of expertise.
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The dedication of the professionals and satisfactions of the customers have brought
success for the home furnishing division in the markets across the globe. It is growing at
a remarkable pace bringing out more and more unique products in the market.
1.1 Infrastructure
Richa Group is equipped with more than 12 fully integrated manufacturing units in
Delhi, Gurgaon & Manesar. The Group is all set to establish more and more
manufacturing units. It will further enhance the production capacity of the Group. A
textile mill at Tiruthani near Chennai is giving an extra dimension to the Group.
Offices strategically located all over India are operating with a commitment to excel.
The Group is equipped with state of the art machinery like Tunnel Cover Seaming
Machines, Heat Transferring Machines and Vertical Garments processing with auto
tilting to produce various types of high quality knitted garments. Ultramodern
technologies lead the Group ahead of the competitors. It plays the key role in
producing the products of superior quality. The unique blend of modern technologies
from all over the world has enabled Richa Group to maximize its capability.
Keeping an account of the changing needs of the customers the Group equips itself
with the latest technologies. It is determined to make use of the most modern
technologies for offering the finest product to the clients. Technological superiority
plays a crucial role in gaining an edge in today’s competitive market. It also
empowers the Group to achieve the optimum production levels. The latest
highlighted-tech machinery is used at every stage, from - designing (CAD), Cutting
(Digitizers, Plotters & Automated Cutting Machines) to Fabric Testing (Fully
Equipped Laboratory) and Fusing.
Cutting
The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber spreader
and cutter that ensure 100% perfection. It improves
turnaround times and expedites the cutting process with
minimal waste and cost. The section also has Bend Knife
machine and Fusing machines. Most modern CAD
systems from Gerber, Tukatech and Lectra are employed
for Computerized Precision Pattern Making, Grading and
Marking System.
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Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality
washing and wrinkle-free finishing. The in-house washing capacity is one
million pieces per month. The laundry division is well equipped with
a.utomatic washers, extractors, PERK and dryers. It has ultramodern
facilities like Enzyme, Stone, Sandblasting, Pigment Dying, Over Dying
and Vertical Garment Processing with Auto Tilting etc. Various pressing
machines and heat transferring machines are also available to ensure
improvement in high functional performance of the garment through
specialty finishing.
Final Inspection
Richa Group has an efficient Final Inspection Department equipped with
the latest equipments. This section plays the most crucial role in ensuring
100% perfection of all the products. It is inspected that all the features
demanded by the clients are designed or not. The experts thoroughly
check all the products to make sure that the perfect products are delivered
to the client. The products carry the brand image of the company. That’s
why utmost care has been taken in this section to ensure that all the
products are faultless.
Quality plays the key role in the business expansion of any corporation. It’s the core of a
business for what it gets acceptance and credibility amongst its clients. All possible
measures are taken at Richa Group to maintain the world-class quality. At Richa Group,
we endeavor to achieve the best quality from two points of view.
Innovations lead ahead a leader to remain at its position tackling all the challenges. At
Richa Group, utmost importance is given on Research & Development and all efforts are
made to make it one of the best in the world. It is involved in the entire process of
garment manufacturing from pre-production sampling to packing stage. It looks into
Industrial engineering, process feasibility and other technical aspects.
Clients
Through a wide range of high fashion garments for men, women and children, Richa
Group has marked a distinguished presence in over fifteen countries including USA, UK,
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Europe and Canada. In the leading retail outlets around the world, the products of Richa
Group are flaunting the latest fashions. With over two decades of presence as a major
Indian Government Recognized Trading House in the international fashion apparel
market, Richa Group has become a widely admired name.
The Richa Group has become a favoured supplier of High fashion garments and has
worked with the leading customers across the world.
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Kohl's Venezia Chico's MAX&Co.
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Chapter 2: Background of the project
About the project
For the period of three and a half months, I interned in Gaurav International which is
located in phase 1 udyog vihar, Gurgaon. It was a great learning experience to work in
richa groups which is a manufacturer and exporter of women’s wear, kid’s wear, men’s
wear and home furnishing products.
All the departments are equally important to carry out the export process effectively but
the merchandising department plays a vital role in getting the export orders. Thus,
selecting a project on process of merchandising department was an important decision.
Project objectives
To understand the importance of product development in an export house.
To analyze the work process of designing department.
To analyze the work process of the merchandising department.
To analyze the day-to-day challenges faced by the design and merchandising
process and how the workforce adapts to changes at work.
To understand the important of sampling process in export business.
To have in-depth knowledge about various departments in an export house that
helps in carrying out the export process successfully.
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Chapter 3: Review of literature
Export Sector of Indian Economy has improved immensely over the years and has earned
US $ 125 billion in the current fiscal year. The goods exported from India mainly include
wide variety of agricultural products, chemicals, jewelry, garments, leather goods
and so on.
India has developed business relations with a number of foreign countries like the
member countries of SAARC, some Eastern European countries as well as African
countries, Members of EU. The impressive list of countries includes:
Russia
UAE
USA
Hong Kong
UK
Japan
Germany
Singapore
Belgium
Malaysia
Netherlands
Bangladesh
Italy
Thailand
France
Australia
Belgium
The major export products of India hail from the following divisions within the
export sector of Indian economy like:
Engineering Goods
Agricultural Products
Chemicals
Marine Products
Petroleum products
Leather Goods
Textiles
Plantations
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of silk and cotton, and third largest in cellulosic fiber). India has the highest loom
capacity (including hand looms) with 63 per cent of the world's market share.
The domestic textile and apparel industry in India is estimated to reach US$ 141 billion
by 2021 from US$ 67 billion in 2014. Increased penetration of organized retail,
favorable demographics, and rising income levels are likely to drive demand for textiles.
Textile and apparel exports from India are expected to increase to US$ 82 billion by 2021
from US$ 40 billion in 2014. Readymade garments remain the largest contributor to total
textile and apparel exports from India. In FY15 the segment had a share of 40 per cent of
all textile and apparel exports. Cotton and man-made textiles were the other major
contributors with shares of 31 per cent and 16 per cent, respectively.
Rising government focus and favorable policies is leading to growth in the textiles and
clothing industry. Foreign direct investment (FDI) in textile sector increased to US$
1,587.8 million in FY15 from US$ 1,424.9 million in FY14. The Ministry of Textiles is
encouraging investments through increasing focus on schemes such as Technology Up-
gradation Fund Scheme (TUFS). To promote apparel exports, 12 locations have been
approved by the government to set up apparel parks for exports. As per the 12th Five
Year Plan, the Government plans to provide a budgetary support of US$ 4.25 billion to
textiles. Free trade with ASEAN countries and proposed agreement with European Union
will also help boost exports.
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Chapter 4: Methodology
The primary objective of doing this project was to understand the first-hand knowledge
of the designing and merchandising process in an export house. Thus, an observational
method was required which involves systematically watching and recording what people
say and do.
4.1 Designing
Designing is simply creating or an innovation of an idea. A development of design
requires rigorous involvement and it requires a systematic process to formulate a design.
Designers must be able to convey their ideas through their designs effectively.
If a designer is creative and is blessed with artistic talent then the outcome will obviously
be highly enhanced. Every designer need10s a methodology for approaching problems
and each designer or a group of designers need a specific format that will assist them in
making their work simpler and more effective.
Irrespective of the stages in the design process there are certain factors which have to be
dealt with before starting the works. Some of these may be:
Identify the target market - The market that a firm is catering to is segregated on the
basis of gender, age, social and economic segment. Here the market is a group of people
or the consumers. Each market segment is going to have different requirements and
expectations from a design and all of these have to be satisfied by the designer, in order
to make it a success.
Maintaining an Identity for the brand - Every company has a specific look and caters
to a particular clientele. The price ranges are also fixed since generally they cater to a
specific target market. All this has to remain more or less constant so that the company
has a proper brand identity.
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Designing department is also considered as the research and development department of
the clothing factory because this is a department where garment prototypes are developed
for selling and production. Mostly in all the clothing factories, process of product
development consists of seven stages:
Forecasting
Designing
Collection Planning
Pattern Making
Technology
Production of sample garments
Pattern Grading
Some designers select an image, or series of images, to display their color story. Others
use forecasting services which offer a variety of different color swatches, silhouette, and
textile forecasts. Once you select your first color story, you are able to utilize Pantone to
develop color standards. Pantone functions as both a trend and color forecasting site.
They are also the industry standard for identifying colors. Each color swatch is labeled
and categorized with numbers and letters, allowing you to easily find the true color.
Customer satisfaction and functionality plays a big role in designing a garment. The
designer and product developer have to take into consideration what their customer
desires in a specific garment. It could be anything from adding a back pocket on a cycling
jacket or a forearm pocket for a runner’s phone. By balancing function with design, you
create a garment that fits brand desires with customer wants and needs.
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There really is a science to developing the silhouette of the garment. Large brands have
the designers, fashion forecasters, merchandisers, and product developer’s work together
to determine which direction they go. Smaller labels, where most positions are combined,
should still take into consideration each position while moving from concept to technical
sketch.
The world of design is never as easy and glamorous as it looks. From demographic and
trend research, finding your brand’s voice, and narrowing down your collection, the
entire process can get a bit overwhelming. But, one of the most important pieces of the
development puzzle is the Technical Design. Though many people do not know about
this process, developing the technical sketch and technical package is essential to move
onto Production.
The technical package is similar to the blueprint of the design. It shows graphic
placement, points of measure, graded measurements, trim placement, seams, etc.
Manufacturing a garment without a tech pack would be like putting together a puzzle
without the picture on the front of the puzzle box. The factory would be assembling the
pattern blind, making educated guesses where certain pieces go. No one wants to do that.
Costs for Tech Packs vary depending on the complexity of the garment, so it is important
to do your research. It is not always about the lowest price, but the greatest value. There
are typically three factors that determine which design studio and factory you chose:
price, quality, and speed; and you can only pick two. You will pay more for quality and
speed, but you cannot have great quality, fast turnover, and a low price. Deciding which
two factors are most important will help you to choose your vendor.
The industry standard for the development of technical illustrations is Adobe’s Illustrator.
This program allows you to accurately work alongside the curves and seams of the
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garment. This vector based program ensures that details are captured without any grainy
or pixilated lines.
This is the last step in the development process. Garment patterns are the key ingredient
to fit and styling. More returns happen because of fit issues than any other reason,
especially among online sales. A well fit garment will also be worn more often and spend
less time in your customers closet, which increases brand awareness and follow-up sales.
*You can create patterns in two ways. The first, and easiest to work with, is digital
patterns. These are created on a computer and able to be sent quickly and fairly easily
between vendors. The second method is by hand drawing the pattern pieces. You are able
to use either type of pattern when moving to production, however, each factory has
different requirements, and so flexibility is key.
4.2 Merchandising
Export merchandising is a method of offering retail goods for sale in a foreign consumer
market. Many large companies across the country maintain entire divisions devoted to
finding ways to better enter foreign retail markets through export merchandising to
increase profit and sustain growth. Merchandising department is considered as an
important department to run an export house successfully.
4.2.1 Merchandiser
Merchandisers are the mediator between the customer or buyer and the internal
production team. The function of the merchandising department begins with the sourcing
for the new order or the repeat order and continues till the shipment deadline has met.
Merchandisers act as a link between the export house and the buying house. They know
what buyers want and what the company is able to and willing to deliver. They are
responsible for timely execution of the orders.
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The merchandiser coordinates with the design team to effectively present the product or
product line. He or she develops colors and specifications, and performs market research
to determine the most effective ways to sell and promote the product. This person needs
strong communication and negotiation skills and visual and analytical abilities. He or she
also needs to be a creative and innovative thinker.
Garment Sampling
Without sample development export house cannot think of doing export business.
Sampling is one way to attract customers for bulk orders. Merchandising team
take full responsibility of developing samples at various stages, like Proto sample,
size set sample, salesman sample etc. They source all required material for the
sampling, download sample construction to sampling master and sampling tailors.
Send samples to buyers for approvals
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Finding suppliers for accessories and trims for the samples and bulk orders
Production Follow up
Once production started, merchandisers do continuous follow up for production
with in-house production team and subcontracting factories. This way they keep
production and shipment delivery on time.
Follow up of Shipment
Last but not the least, they do follow up of shipment with buyers and send
shipment related document to buyer.
In the product development process, merchandiser coordinates with the designer and
helps them in idea generation and idea screening. Since the product should be production
feasible and viable in the market, it is necessary that the concept for product development
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should clear and tested. Also market analysis and technical implementation is required
before product pricing is done. Product pricing is later conveyed to the concerned buyer.
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important part in attracting export orders from the buyers. Before placing an order a
buyer wants to know whether the export house is capable of developing design samples
of desired quality and style. Thus, it is essential that the samples are innovative and
should be manufactured at optimum quality.
Purpose of sampling
• fabric store
• purchase department
• sampling department
• cutting department
• trims and accessory store
• merchandising department
• production department
• CAD department
• finishing department
• washing department
• packing department
• shipping department
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Fabric store
Gaurav International, udyog had their own fabric store and all the necessary
fabrics were made available from the 219 unit, Gurgaon. The main fabric store
of Gaurav International was at 219 unit. When the fabric is sourced and
brought to the company, they are stored in the factory’s fabric storage area
and it is the responsibility of fabric stores department. From here, the fabric is
taken for inspection and then stored in specific locations from where it is
issued for cutting.
Cutting department
The cutting floor of Gaurav International Pvt. Ltd. has acquired a good
amount of space. It is located in the basement of the factory and includes the following
department:
Fabric Store, Trim Store, Spreading and Re Cutting Area, Bundling and Ticketing
Area
Trims & Accessory store of Gaurav Internationa pvt. ltd is quite huge and has variety of
laces, buttons all the necessary trims.
When need of items arises, it is communicated to the purchase department which places
the order and the goods are then received.
Workforce
4 staff members
6 helpers
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Finishing department
Finishing department of Gaurav International pvt. ltd is located at the second floor of the
unit 225 along with Packing and Dispatch Department. The various jobs done in the
finishing department are:
Washing department
Washing department at Gaurav International had a workforce of 40
employees. Types of machines available were:
8 washing machines (for softner wash, enzyme wash, dying, 5 tumblers
(dryer), 3 machines for acid wash. Total capacity of the washing
department was 10000-12000 pieces per day.
Sampling department
Sampling department at Gaurav International is situated on the ground
floor with the merchandising department. Per day efficiency of the
sampling department was 2.5 to 4 pieces per day.
Merchandising department
Merchandising department in Gaurav International exports is situated on
the ground floor of the unit. The merchandising department has 3 teams.
Each team consisted\s of senior merchants, assistant merchants and trainee
merchants. Each team has one helper to help them out procuring fabrics
and trims.
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Chapter5: Project Undertaken:
For the period of three and half months I worked in the design and merchandising
department of Gaurav International, udyog vihar. After working in the designing and
merchandising department I was able to understand the importance of product
development process in the export business and I had an in depth knowledge about the
sampling process and how different departments work in order to make the export
process successful.
To understand the process of products development, one must have in depth knowledge
about the range development process which is the first step towards the product
development.
During the internship, project on development of spring/ summer collection was assigned
to the designing team. New collections were developed for different buyers; Ann Taylor
LOFT, Ann Taylor Store, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, J.Jill, Lucky Brand,
American Eagle Outlet, Talbots to name a few.
Range Development can be a very complex and time bound process but it is also very
interesting. Before starting the process of range development it is very important to know
about the brand or the buyer for which the collection has to be prepared. For this a
designer needs to study about the brand, its target market, its concept and its previous
collection.
This gives a designer clear knowledge about the buyer’s specifications and requirements.
For example, Calvin Klein does not prefer bright colors or heavy embroidery in its
collection. Therefore, making a range using bright colors for Calvin Klein could be a
disaster and can cost a huge amount and a client to the organization.
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Thus, range development process requires creativity and skills and with that a designer
must have a particular method to carry out the process. Specific pattern helps a designer
to complete the process in time; also it helps to follow up each and every step involved in
the range development process.
The process of range development is carried out by a designing team which includes;
product manager, senior designers, junior designers, graphic designers and assistant
designers. There is a constant coordination and communication between the designing
and the merchandising department because merchandisers stays in one to one contact
with the buyers so they are aware of the specifications and the quality of designs that the
buyers are expecting from the exporters and the costing process of all the design samples
made is done by the merchandisers after the range is developed. Thus, there should be a
smooth communication between the designers and the merchandisers.
Before developing a new line of collection and even before doing the trend analysis, a
designer should be familiar certain terms that are important for the process of range
development. These are as follows;
Product range
Product range refers to the new line of product that is made for a particular
market. For example, developing a new range for spring/ summer collection for
lucky brand (age group: 30-40years)
Style
Style refers to a distinct aspect that appears in all the garments in range
development. It can be determined by the type of fabric used, type of techniques
used to make a garment or an inspiration behind developing the whole range. For
example, style can be contemporary, classic or modern.
Theme/ concept
It refers to a story from where ideas are drawn to create a unified look.
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Collection
These are the basic terms that a designer working in an export house must be
aware of to carry out the designing process smoothly.
While I was working with the designing team I was required to coordinate with
senior designer, product manager, the merchandising team and various other
departments.
Project’s objective
Main purpose or objective for this project was to;
Project description
Project under the designing department included the following job description;
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Developing a product range
Sending design mock ups (embroidery mock ups etc.)
Sending design range for presentation
Taking follow up from my seniors regarding any selections from the buyer
Taking follow up from the buying house, if required
Thereby making changes in the design samples as per the buyer’s instructions
Conveying the same to the product manager and the merchandising team.
During the internship program they got new design collection for spring/ summer’17
developed for different buyers. To name a few, ANN TAYLOR LOFT, ANN
TAYLOR STORE, CALVIN KLEIN, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, J.JILL, TALBOTS,
LUCKY BRANDS, AMERICAN EAGLE OUTLET, ABERCROMBIE AND
FITCH etc.
Season selected: the season for which a designer has to develop a range. For
example, range can be developed for pre-spring season, spring/ summer, fall/
winter, holiday season etc.
Market: a designer must be clear about the market for which the range has to be
made. A market can have various segments on the basis of gender, age,
geographic etc. for example; we had to develop a collection for modern women of
age group 30 to 40.
Brand identity: a designer should know about the brands identity i.e. personality
of a brand and its market.
Company’s ability: the main motive of any export house is to get the maximum
orders in order to generate maximum profits. Therefore, a designer working in an
export house should know about the company’s strengths and constraints. If any
decision is made which is beyond the company’s limit then it can bring loses to
the company.
Price category: for every buyer there is a different price category for developing
garment samples. Garments made of a premium brand can be relatively high
priced because of different types of techniques applied in making the garment.
These are the important factors that help the designing team and the merchandising team
to set a pattern for completing the tasks effectively on time.
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Before we begin with the range development process, we were required to have a mood
board ready of a respective brand, which consists of the visual presentation of the brand’s
concept for a particular season. Mood board explains the color story and the ideas on the
basis of which a designer is suppose to develop a range. Mood board gives an idea of
what the collection will look like. A designer should be creative but he/she must develop
a collection which is inspired by the brand’s mood board only. This is because every
buyer has different expectations and requirements regarding their collection and a
designer must work on to fulfill those.
Season selection
During the internship, design team worked on developing new range of high fashion
women garments for spring/ summer season for the year 2017. For a particular season
there is a different color story and theme. Usually all of the manufacturers of women
apparel follow four different seasons i.e. spring, summer, fall and holiday.
For fashion forecasting, designers also refer to certain websites such as WGSN,
STYLE SITE and FIBRE TO FABRIC.
Following pictures depict some future trends predicted by WGSN for spring summer
collection’ 17 for women apparel.
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Figure 1: inspirations from wgsn
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Mood board
Story making or mood board making is followed by fashion forecasting. Here designers
consider all the factors to be taken into account while forecasting for a new product. For
example, if we are working on women apparel then we must add all the accessories that
would tune in with the product forecasted. Based on this, team has to decide the graphics
for prints, embroidery, styling etc.
Pattern making
After finalizing the design sheets, they must be sent for pattern making. Pattern can be
made manually or they can also be computer generated. After pattern making is done,
sampling process will start.
Sampling
Sampling process is the process in which the garment is made. It involves cutting,
stitching, embroidery process.
Finishing
After a garment is stitched, it undergoes various techniques to give a specific texture or a
finish to the garment. Techniques for finishes vary from garment to garment. It can be a
specific wash or treatment applied to a garment to get the desired results.
Presentation
After the garments have been made they are arranged according to a story in a showroom
in order to present it to the buyer.
These were the steps are just an overview of the range development process. The process
continues even after the meeting is held. In the meeting, designers, merchandisers, buyers
and retailers discuss about the new collection made by the manufacturer and they give a
review on that. The buyers make selections out of that collection also suggest the changes
to be made in the regarding the designing, fit or the look of the garment. This information
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is important for the future collection and for the product development process that
continues.
Following are the examples for a range development process that was a part of my
internship project;
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Mood board of Ann Taylor LOFT spring/summer’16
Figure 2: inspiration taken from Ann Taylor mood board spring/ summer'17
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Figure 3: inspirations from Ann Taylor mood board spring/ summer'17
Analyzing a mood board means; preparing a color story for the range, understanding the
concept about garment bodies, garment fits, fabrics, stitch detailing etc.
Analyzing Ann Taylor’s mood board, it can be interpreted that the collections that they
desire for the spring/ summer season should be clean, subtle, with minimalistic detailing
in terms of prints or contrast tipping in the garment. Also there mood board is inspired
with different types of lace and free flow fabrics, different types of techniques used to
combine lace fabrics with other forms of fabrics.
Therefore, a designer must analyze all such factors in terms of style, color story, garment
bodies, garment construction, stitching techniques and the treatment to be applied on a
garment to give certain type of finish to the sample.
All of these factors must be analyzed carefully before proceeding with the development
process. Throughout the process a designer must stick to these interpretations only.
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Ann Taylor’s mood board
was inspired by soft and
delicate color scheme.
Such as soft pastels of
pink, cream shades to
give the airy look, and
subtle shades of brown,
green
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After the color story has been decided by
the designer, next step is to analyze the trim
or embroidery detailing in the mood board.
A designer must incorporate maximum trim
and stitch details in its collection that goes
with theme in the mood board.
Figure 4: trim and stitch techniques A designer sources similar kind of fabric and
trims so deliver the desired design collection
to the buyer.
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Design sheets
After a designer sources all the raw material required, the next step that follows is to
make design sheets. While making design sheets a designer must keep that in mind that
for which market we are suppose to design a collection. This is because the style, look, fit
and construction of a garment varies throughout different market segments.
For Ann Taylor LOFT our target market was modern women in U.S., aged between 30 to
40 years, working or home makers with family.
Based on this segment, we prepared following designs with different variations in style
and garment construction.
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Figure 5: design sheet and sample
33
34
35
36
37
These were some of the design samples made for Ann Tayor LOFT for spring/
summer’17.
After the collection is ready, a meeting is held where the collection made is presented to
the buyer. People presented in meeting includes general manager, product manager,
senior designer and the buyer team.
For the meeting, designer set up a whole showroom according to the theme they have
selected. All the design samples are displayed in a manner so that they form a story. Story
can differ according to the color, fit, stitch, finish of the gament. All the samples must
have sample lables that mentions the fabric content, style no. of a design sample.
The buyer then review the design collection and give comments on it. the buyer provide
comments if the buyer wants any changes in the fit, design or the quality of the garment.
If there are no changes, buyer can simply approve it for the next step.
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FINDINGS AND RECOMMENDED SOLUTIONS
Current scenario Problems faced Probable solutions
Labor Poor quality Proper training program should be held in the
inefficiency of samples, company premises on monthly basis for the
poor finish in workers in the sampling department, to make
garments. them familiar with new stitching techniques
and enhance their product knowledge in
terms of its construction, design, stitch,
quality of the fabric.
Understaffed Patterns not During the design meetings, the major
CAD department made on problem faced by the design department was
time, hence that the patterns were not made on time
delayed because of less number of pattern masters
process and therefore the samples were not made on
time and they lacked quality in terms of
finishing and stitch. As a result, design
department did not receive good response on
the design samples. This problem was
conveyed to the management after 2-3
design meetings. Then the management
decided to hire CAD masters only for the
design department.
Focus on making Lack of Initially the designers focused on making the
maximum innovation maximum number of design samples as
number of due to time possible for every design meeting. As a result,
design samples constraint the design samples that were made lacked
possible and less man innovation and quality. This approach was
power not fetching good results in terms of
selections from the buyer. Therefore,
considering the inefficiency in the sampling
department and time constraints, the
management later decided to make limited
number of samples but with good quality and
finish.
Improper Confusion Proper documentation of the design sheet
documentation regarding the with exact style number, fabric and trim
and record selection on details was not being followed in the
maintenance design department. Due to this, it used to create
samples, unnecessary hassle whenever there was a
unnecessary selection on any design sample from a buyer.
hassle in the As a result, it became impossible to check
department. which design has been selected in which
fabric quality. Therefore, proper method for
filing and documentation was recommended
to the department.
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These were the problems analyzed while working in the design department.
Out of the solutions given, some were implemented by the management and some were
taken into consideration and were still under the planning stage. The solutions that were
implemented fetched good results to the department as well as the company.
Two new patterns masters used to make patterns manually and outcome was 7-8
patterns each in a day.
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examples; out 200 hundred samples, selections used to be for 10-15 samples, which is
very less. The design samples that were made ready at the last moment did not have style
number mentioned and the some of the design samples did not even had a record of
quality of fabric, fabric source for future reference. Such small management problems
lead to hassle and confusion in the organization. Therefore, to avoid this scenario on
future, designers and the product manager decided to make limited number of design
samples so that more focus could be given to the finish and quality of the samples. Then
for future design meetings, designers use to make 80-100 design samples. This approach
was proved to be beneficial for the organization.
Our manufacturing unit also received an award for most clean and flexible collection for
Ann Taylor spring/summer collection’17.
Improper documentation
Every designer needs to keep a record of each and every design sample. This record
includes; design sheets, details of all the vendors from where the fabric and trims have
been sourced, garment details with proper style numbers, fabric content, and pattern no,
variations in design sample. This record helps a designer to answer any query regarding,
design, fabric or finish of the sample.
Since proper documentation procedure was not followed in this unit, as a result there use
to be a lot of confusion regarding the selection of the design sample.
The department must prepare proper excel sheets for each and every range developed.
The designers to keep an organized record of each design sample with their proper style
no. fabric details and also the number of steps under which the sample has undergone
from pattern making to the finishing of the garment. This would also help the designers to
analyze their process at each and every step in terms of time taken to complete the
designing process.
Later, proper filing and documentation procedure were followed in the department that
made the management process smoother than before. Proper filing and systematic
preparation of excel sheets helped the designers to avoid unnecessary piling of paper
work and confusion regarding and the selection of design samples.
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PROJECT 2: SAMPLING IN THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
After the collection is presented to the concerned buyer, next step is to seek response
from them regarding any selection of design samples. From this point onwards the
process of product development is shifted from design department to the merchandising
process.
A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to ensure the
quality of production and timely delivery. The function of the merchandising department
begins with the sourcing for the new order or the repeat order and continues till the
shipment deadline has met. Merchandisers act as mediators between the export house and
the buying house. They know what buyers want and what the company is able to and
willing to deliver. They are responsible for timely execution of the orders.
Project description
Product Development
Receiving tech pack from the buyer
Sampling according to the buyer’s tech pack
Placing orders for fabrics and trims
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Follows Internal & external communication
Sending lab dips, bit loom and strike offs for approval
Preparing program sheets
Advising quality department about quality level
Giving shipping instructions and following shipping
Have basic knowledge of costing
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To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with
them
Getting orders
Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval
To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production
Co-coordinating with the PPC and production
Activities of a Merchandiser
Buyer directly communicates with the merchandiser in order to place the order. Fixed
buyers are allotted to merchandisers and the communication is between the buyer and
that particular merchant. After the approval of the development samples, the order is
confirmed by the buyer. Merchandiser receives the PO sheet. Then he fixes up the PCD
and delivery date with the buyer
Development Sample
Range Planning
Confirm Costing
Confirm Delivery
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Costing:
Costing of the garment in bulk is calculated on the basis of quality of material and their
requirement in the garment. It is one of the most important activities of the merchandiser.
To arrive at a perfect price to be quoted to the buyer, following points are taken into
consideration:
They use the designer’s worksheet, prototype garment and the production pattern to
analyze the material used and garment construction. Usually the final costs are mutually
agreed on between the manufactures and the contractor based on the production costs and
the similar type of garment made last season.
A detailed cost analysis may be made for each garment, included expenses for fabric,
trims, cutting, labor, overheads, sale’s commission and manufacturer’s profit.
Factors that are taken into consideration for costing are as follows;
Material
Trims
Production pattern making, grading , marking
CMT
Finishing
Freight
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Calculation of Average
For Buyer: Average is found by Pattern Master only for Costing Purpose.
Sampling:
Sampling is the product development stage. This department makes samples on the basis
of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer.
Types of Sample
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2. Fit sample: The comments are received regarding the shape, size and fullness.
The sample is checked for fit on body forms. It is made in exact fabric, though
print maybe different, since the drape and fit are to be checked.
3. Second fit sample: It is similar to the first fit sample made with a few changes
according to comments received from the buyer. Again a third or fourth fit sample
may be required to be made. After approval of fit sample, order is confirmed
along with all the specifications.
5. GPT sample: These samples are made for garment testing for seam-slippage,
tearing strength, button pulling etc.
6. TOP (top of production) sample: It is the best sample from first of bulk
production. Sometimes TOP sample is also called shipment sample.
7. Salesman sample: It is made for the buyer to find out the opinion of the store
owners whether the style would sell in the market or not, and the demand of that
product.
Buyers sending his tech pack, defining the requirements. Pinned Sample might
also be received.
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Patterns are developed by the masters with necessary amendments in the pinned
sample.
Fit samples are developed.
By the time fit sample develop fabric color, thread runs, embroidery mocks, lace
mock etc are sent for approval.
The necessary tests are done on the fabrics and trims.
First fit after QA review and buying house QA review is sent to the buyer.
If it gets approved well and good else 2nd and 3rd fits are made.
Once the sample gets approved the Market adopt sample and the GPT samples are
developed.
Also 3pcs cutting is sent to the production unit for checking production
feasibility.
After the three pieces report, comes sealers and size sets are developed.
By the time we reach the sealers level the bulk fabric is sources, trims are sources,
and all these receive approvals. The garment test report is passed and other test i
The costing gets finalized.
Before the PPM occurs the complete working on the garment is done all the tests
should be passed.
During the internship program, samples for holiday’16 were developed.
Sampling process in the merchandising department is same as in the designing
department. But in the merchandising department, samples are developed exactly
according the buyer’s tech pack. Therefore, fit and techniques for garment
construction should be precisely according to the specifications given by the
buyer.
Workforce of the sampling department at Gaurav International Pvt. Ltd was as follows:
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Total machinery- 40 machines
o 5 over lock machines (5 thread, 4 thread, 1 baby over lock),
o 1 machine for picoting,
o 1 machine for kaj button
o 28 single needle machines
o 7 double needle machines
Per day efficiency of the sampling department was 80 pieces and efficiency per operator
was 2.96 pieces per day.
Workflow of Sampling Department
Cutting
Stitching
Washing
Measurement Checking
Kaj Button
Finishing
Ironing
Packing
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Preparing the time and action plan:
This is prepared by the merchant stating that all the different activities associated with the
order should be complete by the stipulated dates. It is like making sub goals to
accomplish the ultimate goal which is shipping of the order on the pre- decided date.
1. Preparing the bill of material: This enlists all the different materials required for
making the garment.
3. Shipment of goods: According to delivery date the goods are shipped on time.
Documentation department is informed about the delivery date, the quantity etc.
In case of any delay, goods are sent through air on the company’s country.
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Workflow of Merchandising Department
Presentation from buyer/for buyer
Development Sample
Range Planning
Confirm Costing
Confirm Delivery
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Findings and recommended solutions
CURRENT SCENAIRO PROBLEM FACED PROBABLE SOLUTIONS
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Inexperienced labor
The maximum productivity of the sampling department at Gaurav International was 4
garments each operator per day. But the level of productivity fluctuated between 2-2.5
garments per operator per day. The major reason for not attaining the desired level of
productivity in the sampling department was that the workers were inadequate in terms of
skills and knowledge required for making the garment. Most of the tailors could not
understand and interpret the specifications mentioned in the tech pack given to them. Not
having a proper knowledge about the product, lead to confusion regarding the
construction of the garment, which often resulted in poor quality of samples. Sometimes
the stitching process was repeated if the garments were not stitched according the
specifications given, which in turn resulted in wastage of fabrics and trims and also
delayed the whole process.
To run a successful export business it is necessary that the delivery responsiveness of the
company is good and utilization of raw material is optimum. For every new buyer, it is
important for them to know whether an export house is capable of delivering the quality
products that they desire. In this, sampling process plays a major role.
At Gaurav International, there was an immediate need to improve its quality of the
sampling department. The R&D department of the company must take necessary
measures in order to reduce the inefficiency in the sampling department. Measures like,
organizing regular sessions for teaching the workers about technicalities involved in
stitching different types garment, organizing training programs to improve the skills of
the workers to help them enhance their productivity, teaching them about new
technologies being adopted. Such steps would help the company to improve its sampling
quality and would help them to carry out the process smoothly.
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in. this creates a delay in the wok process and the whole communication channel
becomes hampered. Delay in process created tension in the work environment and caused
internal conflicts among the employees.
Workers also faced confusion about who to report in case of any query related to the
garment sampling. Employees in the merchandising department often worked for 2 teams
at once due to excessive workload. In this way employee had to report to two different
seniors throughout. Also, none of the merchandising teams were given any helpers due to
which the junior merchandisers were responsible to do tasks like getting a garment
washed, sending the samples for finishing, cutting swatches. This affected the overall
productivity of the junior merchandisers.
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Chapter 6: Learning
Product development is a very crucial stage where a manufacturer can show its
ability to buyer that would help the manufacturer to attract maximum export
orders.
Innovation in terms of design samples is necessary but it should also be
production feasible. Without production feasibility innovation becomes less
relevant.
The merchandiser keeps the business running. They communicate with the buyer,
buying house and even with all the departments so as to get the work done as per
the deadlines.
It is always an advantage to know about different fabrics used, the kinds of trims
used for every buyer.
There are merchandiser’s team which includes Senior Merchant and Asst.
Merchant and Trainee Merchant and a helper which makes the work more
systematically and organized.
A designer and a merchandiser should have some knowledge about production
whether it could be cutting, stitching, washing or finishing. They must maintain
good relation with the department heads and the workers and they should be
updated to latest designs and trends in market.
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References
business.mapsofindia.com
indianexpress.com
www.ibef.org
www.wgsn.com
www.fiber2fabric.com
www.pinterest.com
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Appendices
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57
58
59
60
61
62
63
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(External Jury Examination Proceedings)
NIFT: MUMBAI
The GRP Internal Jury Examination of Ms. Hashmeet Kaur on her MFM GRP
report entitled “ Product Development in an export house” was conducted
in <NIFT Mumbai> at am/pm on .
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RECOMMENDATION
The Research scholar Hashmeet Kaur has presented the salient features of
her GRP work. This was followed by questions from the External Jury
members. The questions raised by the Jury Examiners were also put to the
scholar. The scholar answered the questions to the full satisfaction of the
jury members.
Based on the scholar’s research work, his/her presentation and also the
clarifications and answers by the scholar to the questions, the board
recommends that Ms. Hashmeet Kaur be awarded the Master Degree in
"Master of Fashion Management (MFM)"
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