Mah e

USA$49-95
Canada '$74-95 (aontim1ed fr(:)m front j1a.p) .

Tyrone Power, and Fred Astaire are etn.ployed to

D ressingtheMan is the definitive guide to what
help illustrate the range and diversity of a1,1then-
men need to know in. qrd~ tQ dress well and
tic men's fashion. Dr~s#tg the Man's sheer rpagni-
look stylish. without becoming fashion victims.
tude of options will enable the xeader to expand
Alan FLusser's name is synonymouswi th taste
both d1e grammar and verfuiage o.fhis petmanent-
and style. With his new b ook, he combines his
fashion vocabLuary
encyclopedic knowledge of men's clothes with his
For thosemen.hoping to find sarto~fu1 -
signature wit ancl eleg~ce to address the funda-
fillm.ent somewhere down the road, tethering
mental paradox of modern men's fashion: 'Why,
their journey to the mind-set of permanent
after men today have spen t more money on
fashion will deiivet them there earlier rather
dothes than in any other period of history; -are
than later in life.
there few~r well-dressed m en than· at any time
ever before?
According to Flusser, dressing well is not all
that difficult; the real challenge lies in being ahle
to acquire the fight person-al-ized Instruction.
Dressing well pivots on two pillars-proportion
and color. Flus,ser believes that '"Permanent
Fashionibillty,J) both hi,s promise and goal for
the reader, starts by being accountable to a per-
sonal set of physical trademarks ·and not to any
Jcind of .random, seasonally se.rved-Llp collection
of fashion .flashes.
Unlike fashic;m. which is obliged to cha:q.ge
each season. the face's shape, the neck's height,
the shoulder~s width, the arm's length. the torso's
strucwre, and the foot's size reJnain fairly con-
stant over time. Once a man learlis how to adapt ALAN FLUS S'ER ls the President of Alan F1usser
the :fundamentals of permanent fashion to his Designs, a company he founded in I979- He
physique a:nd complexion,_he's halfway home. received the 1985 Goty Aw~d as Top Mc~.nswear
Taking the reader through each major cloth- Designer and the Cut.t y SarkAwardin1987for his
ing das15i£cation step - by-step, tW.s user-friendly first two books' ''ilni.q ue contribution tQ the Utera-
guide helps you apply your own specifics to a tute of menswear." He attracmd natiohal attention
series of dressing options> fro1n business casual for designing Michael DOL~glas"s wardrobe in the
·and fotmalwear to pattern-on-pattern coordina- movie Wall Stret;t, as well as acclaim for hJs work on
tion, or how to choose the m0_st flattetihg doth- the HB 0 m0yie Barbarians at th~ Gate and the ·6lm
.ingsiihouette for your body type and shirt collar Scent of a ~ro1.rtatl; He is the author ·o f four books;
for your fa~e. Jnduding Style and the Man, clothes and ih.e Mart, and
A man's physical traits represent his individ- Mak~rtg the Mq:n. l-Ie has two daughters and lives in

ual .roadmap, and the quickestroute toward forg- New York.

ing an endn ring sty1e of dress is through exposure
to the legendary practitioners of this rare m ascu-
line art. Flusser has assembled the largest and
most diver-se collectien of sty.lishly mantled 1nen
everfound in one book Nlany nevet-before-seeh
vintage photographs from the ern of Cary Grant,
Jacket design by Joel Avirom and Jason Snyder
&ant cover photograph:Getty Archives.
Back c:::over photographs:
top: Illusfirated..Ne~vs, l ondon; m~dcUe: Culver PJ1otqs;
bottom: courtesy of Polo Ralph lauren
Author photograph by James Murray

(conti11ued on &~ckjlb;p) Harper~ollinsPublishers

t002 ~ -www.harpere0.ll.in:s.com
 Mantesh

ALSO BY ALAN fL USS I R

Style and the Man

Clothes and the Man
Making the Man

•
 Mantesh

PERMANENT THE PO\¥ER PROPORT ION: THE

FASH ION OF COLOR T HE fOUNDATION PREROGATIVES
2 16 OF STYLE OF PATTERN

34

HOSIERY FOOT ACCESSORIES: FORMALWEAR:

1-IARMONIES DECORUM THE MAJOR IMPORTANCE BLACK- AND - WH I TE

170 186 OF 1/[INOR THINGS ET I ~ETTE

210 232

•
 Mantesh

THE SUIT ODD JACKETS, THE DRESS NECKWEAR

78 TROUSERS. AND SHIRT 144
WAI STCOATS 120
100

BUSINESS GLOSSARY BIBLIO G RAPHY ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

CASUAL 277 J06 307
254
Mantesh
 Mantesh

Male adornment has blo~~o med. in p<1rt. because of the cultural shift toward personal
expression and individuality that took place in the latter third of the twentieth century. During
the 1950 . the typical businessman literally hid behind hi gray flannel uir. The era's political cli-
mate mandated fashion conservatism and uniforrnity. ln some circles. men who dared to dress
diFferently ·were viewed with derision. as outsiders. Fortunately for men's fashion. the tradition -
toppling sixties provided the jump start for males to shed their stereotyped personas. By the
dawn of the new mHienrtium. a peacock had stepped out of the gray Aannel cocoon.
One positive outgrmvth of the sixties tw-bulence was the legitimacy that the period gave
4
DRESSING
to clothes as badges of communication. Masculine attire vvas svvepr up in the quest for broader
THE MAN social freedoms: conformity came to be regarded as almost an infringement of personal! iberty In
the image-oriented eighties. men dre, sed to look wealthy and powerfld. By the nineties. sophisti-
cated men looked upon fashion as another means of discourse in an information-driven '"'orld.
However, i.n one of fashion ·s less forhmatc ironies. when asked to name those public
figures \vho now exemplify this ne,,found interest in male decor. American style gurus and
menswear professionals come up relatively empty- handed. Like·w ise. fas hion journalists from
other Westernized countries are equall y baHlcd. unable to produce even a foursome of domes-

LEFT:
Mencifstyk
J. mU:Xt:t. RtOOt.~, J K. ntr.u "'TAIAh r. ,\MJiltaS~ CI.Ak~
circa 19JOS cap tared
1
J• HU~IJ4)1't IWHft; I,AS \\II t.UM f10t\UR \ " f,IIHW (\XTitO:SY
SpcwtJ!IItm
,"lcrtltly \/(nl llroAir lhtln;r Mon 'J'IJtNIU
head-to-toe.
OPPOSITE:

Men cifstyle,
circa 2oooJ pictured in
celebrity hea.dshots.

~t ll.'tt):,' fl()l,l)P.)rt JU~KI'rl 1'. w-IIH!~&K OUliC'U.~:J rAikiJAlC ,._l"', 'J~. T• • t ,•\IIU~ftf~ R(JIUl ll. f'JflN • 1AU IIA~~ r!rl.ll
~\tJift•lr Almt SJ'r>rl"rtn11 Mqtl,., l'fnurt tf(t~r ,frthllrtl FlJfi"ufrr
 Mantesh

tic male fas hion exemplar. under the age of si.'ty And no one is tqring to come up with such
iconic elegantes as film legend Cary Grant o r Italian industrialist G ianni gnel li; justa couple of
high -:Bying social or busLness magnates or even the odd Hollywood leading man with an affin-
ity for the random sartorial flourish ·would do.
How is it tha t aft~r almost three decades of unprecedented fasb ion consumption. so
few capable practitioners of this ma ·culine art form have been bred? If d:ressi ng well were sim -
ply a matte r of donning the latest designer duds o r owning an expensi\'e wardrobe. fashion
nabobs should be in abLuldance. My quick response is that learning how to dress welJ is much
like trring to build a classically beautiful place to live. ~o amount of professional decoration or PERM ANENT

priceless fu rnishings will ultimately make much of a diffe rence if the :floors or \•valls that they FA SifiON

:.1re to adorn re~ton ~l shaky foundation. ln trying to su rvive in ::u1 increasiJ1gly competitive Jrena,
the men's retailer decided to ride on the coattails of the high-profile designer brand.Je:.:t\'ing the
customer Iittle cho.ice bur to base his dressing style on the shi Fri ng sands of fashion. Unfortu-
nately. when the style '"'inds change. and they always do. the trend-captive man Found himself
standing omewhere other than terra firma.
Lec.1rn ing how to dress '"'el l is not as diFficult as ir may seem. Mud1 Iike the newly fashion-
able pastime of golf. stylish dressing is
an acquired sk ill that can be honed and
impro;ved with correct practice. /\s J
Cormer low-handicap go.lfcr. f am often
srruck by the Fact that the vast majority
of participants in both activities spend
an inm·dimlte amount of time repeat-
ing the wrong techn iques. h 1rthcr
ingr~lin i ng tbe same faults into their
swings, ori n this case. in to thei r closet .
\iVh ile the go Ifing enthusiast
can engage a recognized profession;1_l
+or instruction. d1e +ash ion follower
lacks a body of objective experD\ to call
upon fo1· indi,·idual gu.idance. Al1)' go'lf
pro will confin11 that v.rithout the
proper grip, stance, and balance- the
Fundamentals-a]! the practice iJ1 the
world will not enable the most dedi-
cated goJfcr to fulfill his potenrial.
Developing a Aattering mode of dress
is no diFferent: without a ·working
knowledge of the basics, a man can not
achieve true stylishness.

-- -
 Mantesh

Dressitlg,vell rests on two pillars-colot ari.d

propon ion. O nce yo u learn vvhich colors enhance
yoLu· complexion and why specific proportions flatter
your physique, you are haJ-~vay home. And '~rhar does
i r take for a man to grasp these two critical ae . thetics?
Nor nearlr as much aptitude or savoir faire as you
might think C€msider rhis: the classic m.ale tu:xedo
confers ins tan r;;u1eous ·elatl on aU corners, yet this old-
wo rld regime is composed of only two colors, black
and whjte. lf such a simple color scenario qlll help any
m.an appear debonair, you don't need m be smn e kind
of Kandinsky to look your best.
As for proportion. here's the kind of mind-set
responsible for the current state of sartorial confLls.i.on.
'Men. tlS \~reJI as women, invatiably i.nqu.ire whether tie
widths will become lat·ger or smaller. F-Tovvever. the
aJ1S\Ne r lies not in the world of fashion but it1 the realm
of personal architectLu·e. The vvidd1 o f a w:an's .necktie
should relate to that ofhis jacket's lapels. which, in turn ,
are govctned by the size of the coat's shoulders. (See
chapter 3, "Proportion: The Foundation of· Style.")
Should a1nan be broad-shmddcrcd. a slightl y wider necktie will harmonize better with the jacket's
ti-tUet proportions: if small-shoulderecl a na1-.r.ower necktie vvould be the liJ.ore flattering choice.
Fashion should be accountable to a specific ·s et of physica1 trademarks and not to some random.
seasonally served-up set.of±ashioo Hashes.
\ tVith this. indiYidual i.zed app170ach, leac~:ning bo'w to dress vvell begi.ns to take on a cer-
tain logic, if oot clarity Howeve r. men intent upon improving their dressing skills are often
stymied by the lack of access to intelligent and personaLized instruction. UnforwnateJy: no mat-
ter hovv sophisticated a store's merchandise, without a knowledg~able and experienced sales
staff the right clothes have l-ittle chance of ending up 011 the right back in the righ t \(\.ray.
Due to l.J.llStablc financ ing, debt-ridden balance sh~ets. or stocld1older pressures, many
larger retailers have been discoLmlg~d from th iJli.Jng about the long term.· And with profits
squeezed by increasing overheads.. sa.lcs training and se rvice are the first to·suffer. Most retailers
m·e reluctant to invest much in educatin g :a new hire. Although the exceptional retaileJ- or indi-
vidual sales e.,~ecutive might take the initiative to lean1 about the history and traditions und.er-
lyi n.g fine rnenswe:;tr. he or she is not the norm. Nowadays. the distinguished salesperson is
either promoted up to managemen t or hired a,;vay by.a competitor.
l'artiarhtrly at the top end, whe re expectations for professionalisn1 and superior service
a re justifiably h.ighcr, retail expertise has sunk to an all -time low. }vlost better-quality retailers
have t raded up to more expensive mer12handise, ceding almost all responsibility for the educatio n

--- - - _--=~
- - .
- ·- --- ~---~~-~~~~~-~~~~~~~--
. - --
 7
PERMANEN T
fASJ-II ON

OPPOSITE 0. LEFT:
Two paragons of ,.seasoned
simplicity": Sig110r Agnelli and
Doug Fairbm1ks Jr. blanketed in
the quiet asserrive11ess ofa
two-color ensemble.

- -- ~ ---
 of its sales staff to their suppliers, which is like letting the fox loose in the henhouse. As expe1·i-
enced vetera ns retire or are pushed our to make '''ay for a more youth-ful and cost~ efficient sell -
ing Staff. Itl Cll 's clothing floors become increasingly bereft cif those qualified tO jnstruct anyone
imetestcd .i.n the finer points of this masculine ·a rt fortn.
vVith most selJers' incomes derived primarily from commission., fash.ion advice is too
frequentl y prejudiced by t he p rospect of a sale. It's rare to find a salesperson inclined to dissuade
a customer frorn buying an ill-fitti ng or w1A atteri.ng garment because of tbe pressure to ·sustain

8 or increase bis fjgures. Too ofte11 , perso nal opinion and ~i friendl y smile are respons.i.b.le for the

DR ESS I NfJ
fashion -challenged's slu·u1.ki ng closet space. And ~N·ith the econon:Jic reali ties currently operating
TH·E MAN in men's f~1s hion retailing, there is not n1uch reason to expect immediate i.Jnprm'ement.
'vVhereas rhis might sotmd like chapte r and ve rse li·om any period in t\ventieih-century
menswea r. such vvas not always the case. T he tv.renty-year span bookended by the tvvo worl.d wars
marked theh.igh poi.ntofAmerican men's retaiLing and fashion. This was the lasttimethatthe man-
ufacturing, retailing. and editorial sectors of the mensvvear industry worked together to ~ nsurc the
del.ivery of what it prcnriised: authentic style and correct taste. Even though the I920s and J930S
VI'Ct~e de cad~ of considerable econon1 ic uun td dar Ame rica, they produced the best-c:U·e~'Sed gener-
ation it1 the t-vven:tieth cenhuy But the lesson from th.at bygone time vvas.not how well kitted-out
the well -to-do ,;.,,·ere, but r;;) ther that the ~1verage mc,m 's dressing tastes were not th:rt±ar behind.
D uring that pe riod. the American male was
the be neficiary of some very favo rable sartorial cir-
cumstances. The period b~gan by catapulting the most
important single force in m.odern me n's fashion onto
tbe -world stage. Whi.le still not yet ] ing of England,
David \i\lind$or was rega rded in A mericaa5 the undis-
puted King of Fash1on. The yeUov\r-haired heiJ· to the
thro11e. Yariouslv knovvn as the Prince of \tVales and
J .

1ate.r as d1c Duk~ ofvVindsor, visited the U nited States

The Prince qfwales: The Beau ofthe Twentiet11 Century.
in 1924 and made fro nt-page news . ..Plmtographers
trailed him from the Lo ng Island estates of America's
wealthiest families to lunch with President Calvi.n
Coolidge, with detours to the races at BeL11onr Park
and the polo 111atches at Meadowbrook.
1\s British menS\i\rear's greatest u aveling
salesman. th~ young Prince of'vVales ap.d wh<lf he w01·e
\.ve re matters of deep interest wbe.rever he. we.nt. On
September l O, r924, 1vlcn's \iVear magazi.ne reported,
"The average yo ung man in America .is mote inter-
ested in the clothes o f the Prince of\Vales than in any
other individual on earth." T he travels of this sartorial
Pied l)iper elevated rhe new men's o rder to center
stage. \ Vhen the ·rock market crash came. \\'h icb one would haYe expected to S\\'ecp fa:h ion awa)~
it .had the opposite -effect.
\iVai I Sn·eet might have laid an egg but Fashion didn't The Grear De pres ·ion rcLUrned
style supremacy ro the hands of the lucky fc\\' " ·ho could still aFf-o rd co dress'' ell. General business
conditio ns did the vvo d~ of the thrc11hcr by eliminating the chaff or those followers of Fashion.
lc;:n·L.ng the ke rnels. those men of inAuentiaJ positions in finance and societr ro do the leading. T he
new cafe society"s dressing habits. wate[i.ng holes. and social acti\·ities monopolized the attentions
o l~ the -fashion press. Their intact fortunes <lnd inbred se nse of security emboldened these men to
imprm·ise <md break the fashion rLJe ·. Ironically. despite the Depression. or rather. becau~e of it. P ERMANENT
the next decade proved to be the most important per.iod in rwentieth-cc nmry menswear. Fil S /liON

The ·i ntet\:va,· pe riod signaled the last rime thm the introduction o Fa new men's Fash-
ion (o r a different wa) of rigging out an old one) gra\ itated down from the upper bracket · to
the lowe!'. In o ther words. before the hot po llo i could sign up fo r it. the high ~class had to sign off
on tt A ny fash ion innovation ·first required the app roval of those men co nsidered reliable
arbiters of popular taste. Only whe n a ne\\' wearable \\·as adopted by a sufficient num ber of
these style setters wou ld fashi on bibles such as .-\pparcl ,\rts or Esquire magazine t·eco m mend it to
the greater buying public. tvluch like the French vinegrower's Appellation Contn)lcc. c8ch new
item of apparel faced a rite of passage before it could be ccr6fied :18 "authentic fashion ."
If this system did not foster a high enough level. o Fcl1m;umer trust. the retailer v\·as i11 tum
expected ro assume final responsibility for hi.o.; establishment's fashion crcdibilil:)z As Appctrel I \rts
ad,·ised. " 1 o merchant can devote his time to better use than to emplo) it in a constant effort to dis~
ti nguish between real and bogus t:1shion. A ma n who GLilllOt buy with confidence will nor buy at al l.''
This point of vie-w became a regult.1 r theme o ( the period icRI's momhl y 6di11gs in the 1930s. Stores
.selling men's apparel that lacked the con·ecr pedigree or that ended up prematurely out of fush io!'1

Camels Hai1' Coat Coconut Straw Hat Norwegia11 Slippers

Mahare1.jahs.of b~.dja Bahamian §tt:aw Norway to London

original us€rs w0ven by NassaLt natives

I I To NassaLL
Adopted by British Sold by
army officers f9r,vear 1t[ary Wilso11, Nassau
after polo games To Palm Beach
I I
Worn in Brought Purchased by British To N(:wport and
E11,gland on ro U.S. by and Anierican U.S., hatlonwide
furloughs American sociali res and won1 Thence.
socialite in P~ Beach_and national
travel.ets Newport pqpuJ ari:t:y
Noted at I
pol.Q matches Worn at EXAMPLE S OF H OW I930S T AS T ES
and society Newport BECAME PERMANENT FA S H f ON.
gatherings telilr;ti.s n:tatches
 favor could expect the victim to promptly
transfer his loyalt)' else,vhue.
By the thirties, nevl me n's fashions
appeared fast an.d furious. Formal evening
and d:1y attire were supplauted by more·
casual garme ntS; such as the d inner jacket
the th ree-piece lo unge sui:t. a nd the dress
hirt with attached soft coUar. 'vVith the
advent of i11creased le isure time. the odd
ja~ket and ~l acks ensemble, active and spec-
tator sports\:veat attd all types oflight·weight
rewrt garb pressed the.ir ·way into vogue.
The thirties fashion ~co nscioLL""l Jiiale de~-per­
ately needed both info[med and individual
~qvicc. And an'lazingly, that is e--xactly '"'1hat
he gor!
for all A merica's sa rto 1ial shortcomings to follow and fo r all the legend of England's
supremacy in the field of hlen's d o.thcs, durir1g those i11tervvar years, America evolved in large
part through a process of cuhural mimests into the best-dressed ll<ltion in the "'INorld. Pictures of
gents aTtending sporting eve nts or simply enxoute t o work corroborate this. O ld newsreels and
pe riodicals reveal a SLtrprising number of well -d ressed chaps. w ith the average Joe ve ry much a
part o·f the equation.
The question a1·ises: 1:-low di.d the so~call ed hapless American .male end up on top of the
styJe-leader board? And ho,vwas the id ~al of masculine elegance so widelydisseminated dm:i.ng this
decade.? Three factors hel ped the-Ametican
male step out Fmm uninfonned mediocrity
and up the proverbial ladder toward sty'le
supetiority- ·rhe prcvalenGe of credible role
models. "bespoke" fashion, and _generally
accep ted stancL1.rds of taste.
From the early twenties through
the late t hi rties. t hat elusive but convenient
charact~r. "th e average mJ.Il."'~'a.." exposed to
more vis ual "aids'' in the fbrni of stnartl.y
attired public t1gm·es than he could shake a
stick at. Well-dressed sociaLites, such as the
13.iddles and the Rhinelanders, and fa!Sh iOll-
savvy business leaders, such as Charlie 11.LtbJ1
and NUlton Holden, fo~·med just t\vo of the
 SETTiNG THE STY tE BAR

OPPOSITE TOP:
Three ofsociety's irifluential men:
Y.Villiam Rhinelander Stewart,
the Duke ofSutherland,
and Chadie Munn.
OPPOSITE BOTTOM:
Even the average joe
sho..,ved a certain style.
ABOVE :
Hollywood set the stage-
Cla1'k Gable, out shopping.
many ·trQta of society helping to lift the t aste level of rhe masses. T he silver screen
presented scores of male stars ·winging about glamorous environs. Fred Asraire.
Humphrey Bogart. Gary Cooper. Dougbs fai rbanks. Clark Gable. Cary Grant. Adolphe Mchjou,
Ra) t\'1 illand. 1)rrone Power, George Raft. Jimmy Stewart. and Robert larlor were regularly profiled
at\\ ork and home upholstered in aUsorts of decorous fi ncry T.hct·e vvas even a British contingent
called the'' llollrwood Raj." composed of ·ud1 Engli ·h gallants as David ivcn. RonaJd Coleman.
Errol Flynn. and Basil Rathbone. who paraded arOLUld town like peacocks from Piccad.illy. \Vhilc
Holly\~·ood's leadi ng men occupied center stage, England's adstocracy consistently ranked among
rhc swankier sahibs in rhc ciYilized vvorld. had tbe tradition and t he time to flaunt the Empire's
inHucnce 0\'Cr mJ.lc habiliment. Daily tidings oF the Prince of vVales \1\TCl'C broadcast worldwide
along with the ocial and sartorial escapades of his dub-elegant confreres. Much like today's
omnipresent billboards. the landscape Furnished C..'\t ensive opportun.ity to observe and imitate the
.
g01ngs-o n.

Basil Rathbone, part ofthe "Hollywood Raj,"
sho1vinghis high style.
~ -
The second factor rcspon ·ible for the
emergence of ·o many dome ·ric -,,ells was the
inl-lucnce of ·'bespoke" taste. which wa to say.
the '·London Look.'" Ta.ilor and Cutter. Britain's
weekly trade gazette, trumpeted that "a man
can't make love with conviction unless he is
wcarjng a coat cut v\·ithin ~1 half a mile of Pic-
cadilly" \Vith the world's economies depressed.
men's styk took its lead from those 'Ncll-
st::trc hcd stalwarts ·w ith sufficient cash to have
their clothe · tailored on London's legendary
avile Ro": The English ··drape" su it and all raj-
ment .. Briddish" were regarded as the quintes-
sence of masculine sophistication.
The thirties represented the last epoch
in which a gentleman's ideal w::ts to be attired in
"bespoke E1shions... Men's dress still represented
a form of class-consciou.•me.ss, and tai lor-made
clothes ranked as another of those vessels oFdi.s-
ti nction O-Jnong the ch1sscs. \~i th men's modes
molded by the eGte palates of the international
businessman. Europe's titled aristocrxr and
llollywood's cinematic royalty. the general taste
lcvd had nowhere to go but up. and up it went.
Even todar seven decades later. were
one ro conYene the world's be. t-dn:sscd men
under one roo£ the majority \\'Ould still show
up mantled in some form of custom- made clotb-
ing. Despite the culture's need for immedi<:l te
gratification. the most sophisticated dressers.
p::tsr o1· present, ·c ontinue to go to the effort and
expense of bespoke tailoring. Un like coda)( when
fashion is so mething formulated by a designer
or a store. back in the thirties. the style seeker
learned that genuine stylishnes ·was an extension
of himself not the other way around.
The third catalyst serving ro heighten
rhe American male's receptivirr to Cashion \\":15
the medium of established taste. Historically.
taste in masculine atti re tended to rdlecr rh~1r of
. -....
----- - - ~-..J
 t he commu11 ity's social leaders. In t he 11ineteenrh cen-
ttuy. mal e decorwn.\vaslargely determi ned by the sor:ts
of the landed gentr y, while that of the new royalty and
tbe u pper class dom Lnated the eady 19 2 0s and 1930s.
DtU·ingthe thirties, person:oll taste and expres-
sjon had comfortable lirnits w ithin which to operate. lt
~was still 1·ight or vvrong to we4r cert..L.i n clothes fo r cer-
tain occas iohs. O nce a gaJ·ment was classified as sltch,
the re vYas no need to qnesti_o n its legitimacy or appro-
priateness. "A uthentic h1shion .. involved little specula-
non or p0tennal h azard: in principle, it ,~ras ,nothing
mort. th~m adopting apparel that had al1·eady been
deem~d correct and so6aUy acceptable.

U p thro ugh the late I9) 0s, pivotal variation s

iP male att·ire v'lrere relatively fevv. making it far easier to
recogniz<" and foll.ow the dictaEe~ of fashion. ivlen kn ew
fi 'ughlr v,·ha.t to wear for most occasions. ln fact. at
e.a.'r in rhe United ~tates prio r to the Peacock Revolu.-
non. there was an LLnspoke n co nse nsus among tbe
u"ell bred as to what constituted good taste in mascu-
llite decor. lt w.as part Brooks Brothers and part Savile
Rt:m a dictum forged by the land's Ne,~r EnglaJld her-

uage. with gentlemanly etiquette presided over by

Uoston's Brahm ins.
But by the late SL'Ities, tbe
..ebellious offsp ring of t he m.iddle ENGLAND 'S AR ISTOC RACY:

c J.SS had forced ~tpper-dass taste The Duke ojWestminster (above)

m take a backseat t0 the ne\vly and Mayor '~Fruity" Metcalfe
(accom.panied by his 1•v[ft}.011e of
licensed f reedo ms of youth and t he
the Kfng'sfo1'emost savm~ts ofstyle.
'rrcet. ··nowh with the Ritz, up
wirh rhe street.'' prodauned Paris
coururier Yves St. Laurent. \ Vith the cbntinuj ty of
e~rablished taste broken and social custom.s n o longer
offering strong guidance for appropriate dress. the
concept of objective st andards -f0> r sartodal taste was
abandoned. Toda)r, one man's good taste 1s another
man's "pizza tie'' (a term 5·o m novelist TO'rn vVolfe).
VIe have now arriv ed at that point where ·rhe
book's sub title. "lvlasterlng the Art of Permanent
Fashion." n ~ed s some ex planati o n. T he hnki.n.g of per-
 mtmem with ji1slzio11 may wel'l strike. ma11y as an oxymoro.rt. Particula rly today. \vhen fashion is
taken. to mea.n. a .CC.)lll11litment to risk and change. mating it '~· ith d1c idea of permanence i.s
bound to cause confusion. if not dmvnright controversy. This is not an oversight bltt rather an
atte.n1pt to provoke the inquiring mind.
The idea of pe rmanent fashion operates on two levels. First, it syitibolizes· the current
paradox of modern men's fashion. which is. that mens\'vear has enjoyed three decades <.:1f
w1precedenred .grmvth and freedom to configure and reconfigl.Lre the sarto rial tastes of several
generations. yet th e re are fe'''er genuinelr well-dressed men 1tow than .bdore. There has been
D RESSiNG
noth ing permanent about recent fashion. A nd second. perma nen t Fashion is the book's
THE lvLlN prospect us, its .m.issiori to .its teaders. For those .~:ne.n hoping to .find sartorial fulfi.llmcllt some-
\yhere dm;vn the road, tethe ri ng t heir joumey to the mind -set of permane nt fashion will dd ivcr
them there earlier rather than later in life.
Moving towaH:I such a stat~ requires the creation o f a classicall y stylish W<:lrdrobe and
the knowledge of how to wear it to best personal ad van rage. For n wearable to qu ~llif~; as fash -
ionable )'€~u in and year out. .it must possess Ln.h erenr merit. useful.ness-. and all -around good
taste. And while the evolntion of on e's personal look 1s a work- in-progress. tmderstanding
vvh.ich colors and proporti0ns strit yew the best e:md why
fertilizes the sarto1·ial so i.l in vvhkh 0ne's permanent
fashio nability can b.lossom.
Some may feel that establishi ng ru les for gpod
taste may iflhibir self-expression. It's my op.inion that
Dl ey provide the only cha nce For genuine ind iv id uality:
Real innovatioh has always taken place with an a\vare-
ness qf. ra~:-her than an ignorance of the rules. Afte r all.
GOOD TASTE IS PRICELESS .l1ovv can you push the envelope if there is no envelope
.. . BUT IT DOESN'T COST A THING
AT BROOKS BROTHERS to push? Knowing rh e basics of setting a proper table or
Good rasre i:> an .ingredie.nt thar gots intO everything
we scl1 here at Breoks Brothe rs. Tr costs .no· more now writing a decent letter preve nts getting bogged down in
than it dld.in l s·ui: when-we started in husincs; ... and
it clldn't cost n· cent tlten. It's something we put in
the small stuff Finally. good fo rm makes for a level play-
•
everything we maite1 nncl demand i n ev~:ryth i ng we·
huy . .. nn intangible quality tha t h elps i4entify quF
ing field on which ex~d l ence has real n1eaning.
merchancl ise as Brooks Br:others. Therefore. for me n ro develop the confideJ1ce·
W!! invite' yciu co drop i:n and cli5covcr tl1at "ther~ 1s
no addftion:il charge fur the name Brooks Brot.her;.." and skills to take a new look out fo r a spin on their
0Jir.0WJI Make Rendy-Nlndd St.tiss, jmn $16:5 0 \'\·n , they need visual re inforcen1ents. Less i.ncliJled
Our ..J 46"Suiu,$125t4 j.ISS
th<:m the opposite sex to risk victinlizat1on by the
caprices of f1shion, tiH~n feel niore st yle-secure when
surrounded by like-attired numbers. \Vhereas th e thir -
ties provided an w1 interrupted vi.sta of yvell-clad coves.
the paucity 0f such .male paragons novvaclars is perlu1ps
BOSTON · PITT5UU'~Oii • Ati...\i<'rA • ·CF!lCA.GO
spi. FP#<ICISOO • L.!)S ANO~ts:
t he principal cause. fo r the species's current con.tm-
dtL1111. Jn an attempt to redress th is. Catch-22, Dressing
the Mi7.'11 has pressed into .service th~ largest and most
diverse collection of stylishly m:mtlcd men ever to be assembled bet\~·een rwo co\'ers. Hope-
fu lly. the sheer magnitude of options; presented he re wi ll enable the reader. regard less of his sar-
torial persuasion, ro expand both the grammar and range of his permanent r~lshion vocabulary
However, one smaJ I ca,·ear before we proceed. Though these pages arc Filled with men
''rho demonstrate an c.xception;JI feel for clothes. I am not tl)'ing to turn the proverbial "ape-
man into an Adolphe 1\ lenjou.·· The best- dressed men consistcntJy demonstrate the greatest
degree of self- knowledge, which. for Olll' purposes. means a superio r LUldcrstandi ng of tl1eir
physical manne r and appea rance. Their style deri ve::; from an evolved itnvard eye rhat guides
them tmvard those cuts and colors that best articulate rhei r physiques. At such a rarefied level. PERMANENT

an indi,·idual's bodily a\vareness becomes an almo t unconscious dynamic. much like muJtipli- FASHION

carion fur c1 mathematician . \Nhile Dressing the 1\ll mz's visual content goes a long '"a)' toward
preparing the reader to take that next . tep. teaching such a high level of style consciousness is
not its primary goal.
The great dressers oF the past c~n be a pleasure to look at, but they should be regarded
as sources of inspiration. a means to an end. They developed a 'vorlung knowledge of the basic .
freeing their fashion intelligence to experiment and shape these fundamentals inro a more per-
sonal rendering of the art form. ' trctdLing a fundamental here. bending a rule there, the
sophisr:ic:tted dresser aspires to a more poetic, less studied expression. As art critic Kath leen
Campbell has stnted 1 ''The perfect art is that which conceals art."
In my t hirt)'-odd years oi designing and writing about men's .style, I h8ve come to realize
that men possess more naturaJ talent for persOiial decor than generally given credit for. vVhen
:1fFordcd the opporttmity to gertlrsrhand ad\'ice, they rurn out to be surprisingly quick studies. Hav-
ing created custom clothes for a diverse audience of men. I have ret to meet one "'ho, in the privacy
of the fitting room. will not express an interest in wanting tGiook better. I believe rhat men not on ly
w~nt t0 expand their capacity for self-adornment but that they have never been more ready
DaisakLLIkeda, third president of rhe Soka Gakkai. a Buddhist world- peace organiza-
tion. states. "Our lives are ruled by impermanence. The challenge is l10w to create somethi1igof
e.nduri ng ,·aluc \\'ithin the context oF our impermanent Iivc ·." Dressing the 1\lan: 1\ fasteri11g the Art C!_{
Permanent Fashioll aspires ro do just that. Although the responsLbility fo r its realization lie ·
squarely \Vithin, permanent fashionability is ,,vithi n t he re~Kh oF any interested man.
 exist benveen a man's m.ost visible and.expressive body part, his face, and the clothes surround-
ing it is a prereqt.Lisite of fihe dressing. Oscar Schoefrl er, Esquire rnagazi1:1e's legendaty fashion
editor. once vvarned, "Never underestimate the power of what you rveru·. Aft.er all. theJ:"e is just a
small bit of you sticking out at the neck and cuff Jihe rest of \e.rhat the V\rorld sees is what'$
draped on yo ur fran"ie.'' AJ1d ·wh iah .colors end up fratning this <•sm.aU bit of you'' can1nake d1e
difference between this cynosw~e of expression being brought t o life or not.
first .impresstons more than any other aspect of attire. It can establish an
Cbl oJ: influences

r8. emotional link bet\veen object and observer. When the fa£e is surrounded by tonalities thatinvjg-
DRE·ssrNG
orate and iliuminate its presence, its ability to provoke immediate and marked reactions is ampli-
THE M AN Fied. ~ro.s t wome n learn early 'O·n of th ~ role of the face iJ1 the dressjng game. The pretti.est
woman's fuce is us ua]Jy a canvas to w hj ch bo th nature and art have· contr.ibuted. Unfortunately
for the n:tan, ''fe n:Jinineu artifices such as cosmetics are not rea:listic option s, leaving tile male
countenance more vulnerable to outside siege than those fortified facades of the fairer sex.
J-lowever. r11en need to knovYhmNto vveat color .not .so tnuch for its beauty or alJu.re but in.m·der
to heighten the face's expressive capacity in the commLmication process.
Although a lot is known abo ut the effect of certain colors on the heartbeat and rate .of
respir~tion,
little h.:1s beeri taught of late about t he transforming effect of clothing colors on a
mah's appearance. The on1y time in this.ce.t1tury that 1nen had ready access tO·such information
was du.ri n.g tl1e heyday of men ,s elegance, t he 1920s and 1930s. Thjs was a period in vvhich the
drab stiffness of the Victorian costume was being rep.laced by the colorful informality of the
evolvi.ng l oung~ s ~1it and fl edgling sportswear fashions.
Among t he century's e~u-ly fashion peri0dicals, Esqu·i1'e magazine established itself as the
leading arbiter of American rnen's style. Beginning in t he fall of 1933, Jts editorial department
vvould dispatch style scouts ro the far corners of the globe in search of those dress innovations
and style cues m.estlikely to develop inro long:-term fashion trends. But before Esqtdre roJled o.Llt
its fashion findings to the public at large, Appm·elAJ'ts, its sibling publication, wo uld first present
their conuuerciaJ prospects to i.ts professional audience. the mens,<Vea.r indusrry
·w hen a new color became important;, Apparel Arts would introduce it by inventing
sobriqu.ets hke "sandune'' or «brownstone" to rmnanticize its appeal. Leading illusti'atots Nvould
be co mmissioJ1ed to portray the new· color"s style currency and wardrobe possibiJities. S~rn ple
point-of-sale and window display layouts 'WoLJ.d folJ.o"w so that retailers could learn how best to
present. promote. and se.ll it .
As suppliers. solicited wholesalers and manu-facturers geared up production. Apparel Arts
· announced which Ltpt.on1.Lng Esquir.e :issues ·wo.uld feanrre the new color "story.'' Depending on
its perceived impor tance i11 the larger fashjon firmament Esquire vi'O uld sornetitties devote an
e11tire season's coverage to promulgating the color story. Style histories discussed \iVh.ich
ceJebriry and what water:ing hole pioneered the tony new shade. Newspaper ads linkilig the n~w
color to, say, one's complexion would appear. such as the one on the foll0wij1g page. "Color
vvheeht .inch1di ng the ne'vY shade vvere .devised t:o coordinaJe n1en's c;ornplexions with the latest
suiting fabrics ::tnd fm·ni shings. By the time the he ralded new colo rs finall y hi t the shel ves. both
the me rchants and the masses \\'ere appropriate!) primed.
The sheer pace of change in Fashion betwee n the wars co mpelled the ed itorial wo rld to
exalt the hmv- to aspect of masculine style as in no other pe riod in menswear before or a~Fte r. As
::1 result. a 111an's complexion and his cho ice of clothes became an ongoing t heme in each sea-
on's ·ryle presentatio n. Men we re in ·rructed on how to incorporate colors such as to·wn
browns and rustic gree ns into thcjr city wardrobes and e ncouraged to take personal advantage
of less popu lar shades Iike pi.nk. lavender, and gold. Nm surprisingly. the period turned out the
most colorfull y clad 111ale in the twentieth century. not to mention the best dressed. T HE P OWER

U nfortLulatel)~ vVo rld \~far I [ sidetracked the exuberance o f the '''ealthy fashions of the O F C O LOR

thirties. This, Collovved by the gray Banncl conformity of the ~i Fties and the social upheavals of the
sixties, left later generat ions of style-conscious males pretty rnuch on their own in d ivining 1:1.11 indi-
vidual d othing palette. fn the early eighties, offshoots of several commercially succe."sfi..tl color books
fo r '"'omen we re broached for men. Unfortunately. their methodology was o to rtuous in detail and
demanding in time rhat most men decided to ignore their entreatie· of sartorial cnUgbtenment,
resigning them ·elves to the predictable sa11ctuar}' of the dark blue or gray business rnantlc.

Sll ljtief\\Clnl-h._lull~l t'ltl t'llllitl' ttl h.tlrl Mtl tlilttrldllj; ttllll t'11,llt\J~Ih1f1•1Uinr$liclrll#.!JIIi IJi .iJOlthl tull ltoUII'Ol'IJirH>\l 1b lh•• tlilti~f!l:l
tli1111Jtl~):i0n~; tlhi lllulllr.\lttl tm lh~.~ ~~lt~brr.r lhu~ , ,(l tfln "Uil ti ll ~dtlt nt. .V.rt-:~1 lu,fr:...::nu\ lrall!ll •:nnh l) t'-1 uf ln.l:an lti~ nul u,,,ft
wllh app.ciJ,trialc .."'iht'- HI lnltrlr• filr Utt' .ult tiUwk., pnrui~y tllll''" i.ollf1-h w':t.) l1t1 lrl tiMII iu Uit' c-nhlf,. 11f k!. Jt f,J~ ' ~ htrh lu t'\'l't')
t.•-lH; l,ut$. nt~tllr ~'"' ,lthtt. 11tC·IIQ.jt!J VQ tlt~ ).UUc:th• 4lt~>Wt1 •)r rn.ul\' ••the~ a\l1Tia14~.

P EX0
l.'.:l f(" tCf•tl'lllttU \l lir!ot cltPlt.~~ Cat\•
as J;UMtet. fQr .,.-uhanut,q O"l"ff•..nrt"' in h.u-~ ·11Ht ..J~q "'-I..,Ctl"tl t~ tf1,.. •rce"'I;;ri~ '*"111··1t 1"' Cl<>tti~~t.lfl h• iirnd uubtNwn,::

Magazines keyedfashion colot stories to d@rent complexions.

 THE ABC SOFA PERSONAL
COLOR STRATEGY

ecping in mind that the face is rhe destination to vvh:.ich one's artirQshould escort
the b eholder's ;Jrtention, i-F too mucl1 or too 1ittlc; repartee occLLr.s bet\i\'ccn it and the stu-round -
20 ing colbrs. the vie\~-re r 's eye is diverted and one:s perso nal. pi:ese.nt:Jtion is ·w eakened . Tv.vo co lor
DRESSING techniques mu.stbe learned ifthe male'l'\comrnunication center is to be.assuredofoptimal a ni -
TH.E b'£AN
marion and inAuence. The first involves the relationsbip betvvcen the co mple-~ i on aJ1d an out-
fit's level oF co ntrast. The colo rs of :;m y given ensemble shoLJd exhibit the same degree of
contrast as th ~Jt manifested by one's skin a nd hair tones. <1 person's two primary colo r signposts.

Bold stripes lighting up Tyrone Powers higl-vcontrast complexion (left). and monotone sh.adings dampening it (right).
The ·econd approach re,·olvcs around highlighting each face by repeating one or more of its
natmal pig111ents i.n the colors vvern below.
Starting with the first principle-while the rainbow of m~n 's complexions encom-
passes a great variety oF shadings. tlle field can be scaled dow11 into tvVG basic formats: contrast
or muted. ff your hair is dark and yo ur skin light . yo u have a contrast complexion. If you r hair
·and skin to iiC arc similar, your complexion vvould be conside red muted. or ton~1J.
Having now matriculated into one oF t he ·t\·VO prevai ling male color -Fraternities, you
might \1\rondcr how such a diversit-y of facial a1id hai r colors can be so neatly djvided into .just 21
t'NO p.rofilc?s. Although me mbership in the- contrast club. substanti<:lUy outnumbers that of the Tr-11~ Po :w~; .R
OF COLOR.
muted. both complexion types cotJt.'lin one important subgroup. The higher- contrast contin-
gcotshares the spotligbnvith the medium- contrasts. 'vh.ile the m~.:tred's hmelight i~ partl y shad-
owed by the Light-b rights.
ln an effort to simplifj' the subject our
discus.sion will be limired to the more graphic
dark-light differential. Sirice relatively few me n
have nm~h knm:vlcdge.or experience in this area.
if the reader can cmne avvayvvith a rudiment;,uy
understanding of the larger conrrasr tTl:LLt<.~d pic-
ture. he '"·.UJ be ,~.-el l ahead ofthe pack.
Look at l)t~:one Power~s invigorated
facial tones as they interact wi th hi$ bl,ick-
and-\1\rhi.tc ping~ pong t<egaUa. \iVbe11 a m.an's
skin and hair to nes are in such powerful Goun-
t.erpo:int to each other. surrou nding tbern vrith
contrast ing colors of equal stre ngth se rves to
en Iive n the fan:- 's n~1 tural vitality. Converse!y,
o bscr~~-e thte. dam pened dra ma oP Mr. rower's
visage when Yisited by the monotone shadings
ofl1 is tonal khaki turnont. -
Alternatively.. \Voody Alle n's muted
colmtenan ce of sandy h aj r and fa ir-toned ski·n
requires the nurturi ng effect o f a softer. mo re
monotoned color for mat. as provided by his
be1ge polo shi n. Encasing a low- intensit-y
co mplexio n vvith in a highe r-contrast setti ng·
d i.lures the face's natura l pigmen t~1tion in
addition to di stracting the viewe r's eye. As
l.ow~conrrast cOITtpl exions are e~~i l y over- vVoody Allen·uses black eyeglasses to call attention to.
lvhclmcd by aggressive color CO(.Wdination, his low-fntensity co·mplexion.
these ski 11 tortes demand more attentLOlJ and a
 lighter touch. A nd because d1e man with a complexion of average conb·ast can tolerate J fu ller
range of color coordination than hi muted counterpart. he also enjoys more latitude and mar-
gin of e r·ror with colors.
The photograph below illustrate<; the importance of such color strategies. llere are two
models with different complexions bu t at-rired in the same outfit. \t\lith the fairer- hai red man,
because ofhis tonal complexion, the necktie's stark black and white stripes jump out. jarring the
eye and leading it away fi·om his face. Conversely. with the darker-haired model. the necktie··

22
high..,conua.st format actually invites the eye to look at his face because of its compatibility \Vith

DRESS 1 NG
his black hair and light skin.
THE M AN Learning color management can produce immediate cLvide nds. Take the example of a
light-complexioned man in pursuit of the classic navy blazer. Armed \\'ith the knowledge that the
blacker the blazer. the more it will contrast wid1 and thus weaken his lighter cornplexion. he will
concern himself only \Vith brighte r. rjcher- hued blues. By cirnm1scribing his range of choices, he
will not on.ly save time but be rewarded with a superior purchase.

Same outfit, d{fferent comple:"~:ions:

On the lift, your eye goes to the tie;
on the right, you1' eye goes to theface.
 The second color technique Focuses on the enhancen1ent of the face through repetition of
one or more of its rones in the suJTOl ii K~ing apparel. This principle c::m £·equently be found inform-
ing the presentation of ari art piece or the choice of eyeglasses. A pjcttu·e tnatting or frame \V iii often
be selected just to highlight one of rhe painting's key colors. Sim.iJarly. a blond man rends to opt for
gold-toned spectacles. "1Ule the salt-and-pepper brow favors the more silver- ro ned rims.
The early menswear magazines thought it was im portan r that a man know the wl1 ys
and \vhereFo rcs of proper complexion and dothing coordination. Take this gent with brmvn
hair and a slight ruddiness to his face (below lift) . Following the second technique's. imperatives,
;

tht:: ob\·ious choice of su it shade would be that which repeated his hair color. thereby drawing Ti-f.£ POWER.

the ob t.:rver's attu1rion to vvhat was bracketed in between - in other words. his face. The fasl1- Of COLOR

ion editor employL'd the same logic relative to the necktie-it's no coincidence that the tie's
reddish GISt just happe n to pick up its wearer's ruddy facial pigmentation.
By sponing a scarf around his neck in the same pale bu.e as his ashe n skin and hair tone,
this next gL'Ilt vouchsafes that his visage won't vanish from view (belo·w righ0. And to prove that

• Echoi11g the hairs color w1der theface

does wondersfor ones complexion.
 the rradition of augmenting one's facial coloring transcends even social station, here'$ the futurt'
hng of England (opposit~, coloni.zi ng his auburn- tin ted face i11 a sea of rubescent tr~ppings.
Eye color fo1Jows skin and hair as the next most i mponanr faci:J11ndicawr. especial ly
\Nhen a man .happe ns to lo0k out behind the baby blues of a P:c1LJ Ne'vvman or a Frank S.i nat.J·a.
Nothing brings.an azure-eyed coun tena nce· into 1nore·e ngagingfocns than a bluc-tcmed shirt OT
1ike- hued necktie cavorting just below the chjJJ.
The last facjal feature to consider is any special p-igment like rosy cheeks o r suntanned
skin. Tn trying to enhance the face's glmv and primacy, t he ide;1 is t o plHy up such colorations. br
24
keying them to apparel in close proximity. such as a scar£ necktie. or spon shirt. Because the
DRESSTNG
Tlf E M,iN bPo.nzed ~ki n 's dc,1fkcr hue increases its level of co nu~1st clothing colors should be stepped up
incremCJ1taLiy in strength. This is 011e re<:tson why warm-weather dimes te nd to bring Gtlt the
peacock i11 a man .
Captured jn the auhtmn of his life. here's our man 11·oni Om~lha. F1·ed Astaire. stilJ chore-
ographing himself into sa.r-tOt'iai.PerFecti·on. Rc~cognizing t hat age lightens o ne's hair and skin tone.
fred e nacts the f in:>t color strategy by :1dopring a muted toupee with tonal clothes to type. I-J is pale
blue Brooks button-down and soft- hued tweed jacket ensure that his feature~ remain cente r stage.
rlumbi.ng the second techniqLlC,,~th typic:l! Astaire pomp.11e highlights his cheeks' slight pinkish-
ness.with a lilac scuf and pocket sqLtarc.
Let's look at some typical in;:-tle
comple-xions· to see Jm,..v these n~ro co lor
ted1.11iques can be ;:-tpplied to improve
them. Think of rhe 'fuce as tbe plcttlre
and the clothes as their frame. \.Vhik the
Fn.u11e should be <.lt[racdve in i.ts o\vn
right, its primary funcri01'J is to help focu..~
the viewer's eye on thatwbich it contains.
\Vich a neLLtral- m ned subject. the fnu11e
needs to recede ihto -rhe background
vvithour lo~ ing
its ability :co def1ne t he
<;ontent's borders. \i\/ith a more graphic
subject the fr:!une must bc·srrongenough
to delineate its perimeter~ withoLtt dis-
ttacting from it.
 25
THE POWE R
O F C O LO R

P::lQSITE & RIGHT:

Proper complexio·1·~ a·nd

rlriug coordihatio1t-
Fml r\staire and
thr P• ince cifvvales
nliuate colors with their
lwrr and skin tones
wnce their appeara11ce.
 TREVOR: MEDIUM CONTRAST

.........,.._sa medium=-contrasr comp lexion, Trevor e nj ors the most latitude of any type rela-
tive to his selection of clothing colors. AJthough still darkJy stylish. Trevor's black hair and
sw;.uthy skin appear almos t· in shadow when framed by the monoroned gray ensemble (above
l~ft) . The lack of opposition between the gray suit and gray ch·ess sh in underplays the highe r
lew~l of counterpoint found iJl Trevor's Face above.
No\\' observe vvhat happens when the gray shirt i · replaced by \\'hire. The relief yielded
by its ligh tness against the suit's d:u·ker background illuminates Tre,·or's face and skin. The
tonall y accesso ri zed suit makes his tanned skin look lackluster: the high-contrast one makes it
glisten. Because of his hair and skin's substantial distinction. Ti:evor .is ft:ee to expet'iment \>V•ith
almost an)' medium-to-strong colo r coordination. confident in the knovvledgc that it can onl y
strengt hen his own complexion.
 FUMIHII(O: HIGH CONTRAST

_ _ om pared to the rainbow of European complexions. the classic FarIa ·tern coloring is
gene rall y confin ed to o ne high- contrast fornl-at-lighr skin and dark hair. Here's a handsome
represc mativc. Although he is \Ve l! rurned out by most sarto rial standards. Fu m ihi.ko 's mono-
chrom atic coord.ination can never fu lly underscore the bold ness of. his high-co ntrast complex-
27
io n. Like t he dampening effect of l)Tone Power's klutki outfit shown earlier. its sobriety TH E P OWER

actuall y diminishes the drama w1folding (below lift). OF C O LOR

However. set sud1 dynamic good looks amid the garnishment of a blue-bodied dress
sh irt with contra ting \~v·hire collar. da rk na,·y suit. and ada ·hing burgundy siH< necktie and.
presto. resplende nce results, All it took vvas a si mple change of facial scenery to t ransform
funiihiko from pedestrian to prince.
 JOHN: MUTED COMPLEXION

--
and skill
Ithough less graphic in content. d1e mured or toned ,·isagc demands more ,-igilancc
to enliven. Due ro irs lower tolerance (or roo noi.'i'' or m erl\' qLtiet color mixes, the
' J

muted I~Ki~tl trpc ill\ ites anonymity iF not handled \Yith nppmpriate care.
28 Just as vvatercolors need c.1 lighter frame to co mplement whc.1t thcr enclose, so docs
Dl~ESSING
]ohJ1's low- key fran tage. 'vVi thou t a cOJl rrasting dark hair sh;..1de tO coun terbalancc the opposi-
TilE MAN rion underneath. John's muted complexion is bullied into submission br the starkness of his
black-and-\\ bite outfit (bclull' l~ft).
J\lternati,·eJy. \Vben rhc less contrasti ng warmer shadings of his rvvo- tonc spo rt jacket
and knit shirt enter the picture. suddenly. Jolu1's dough)' skin shade picks up luster whiJe the tint
of his hair color gajns promi.nence. Once ;:t.gain, whcneve1· the face can be bracketed below in
the s~tm e color as the crop above. it's bound tO end up t:hc clear beneficiary.
 Q

~
• .. •
~ ~

II •
• • 0

EDWIN: LIGHT-BRIGHT

( ~0111e of yo ur clorhcs-e\Cll il they arc exquisite!) (T~lftcd Or luxu rious to the touch-
make rour hKc look more dulled and aged than orhcrs. it i~ certainly because their colors arc
probabl) incompatible " ·irh you r o" n. Ed"·u1 is a pcd"c:ct case in poi nt.
J\ s ment ioned earlier. k1w-contrast complexions ,,re highl r susceptible to Further \\'ash-
ing out by cat·eless color-co.ordin arion!-1. Edwin need$ ro pa) !-lpecial artcnrlo n to those cDiots
capable oF siphoning off additional pigmentation from his fair skin and blo11d - turn ing-whire
hair. ln the left picture. Edwin wears a midnight na') ;;uir "irh a pale blue dress shirt. The suit's
near- black shade ol na'}' coupled \\'ith the icc blue dress -;birr" ork to drain color from his face.
In the picture to the right. r dwi n's dark 11:.1\)' suit lw-. been changed to a brighter. \\'(l l'1llCr
shade of l1<1V) '" hi le the cool blue of his dress shirt is now a dL'cper shade ofblue. Although the dif-
ference is subtle. with richer tones now throwing more w~1rmth :ll"olind his 1:.,ce. [dwin's blue eyes
sudden!) ~p t·i ng to lil"c. and his as hen skin appears Bush and in,·igoratccl \~'ith his tic pulling his
hair color in to the mix ~md his blue-~cccnted pocket ~quare reinforci.ng his eye shade. the OYeraJJ
~Ffecr is mcasurabl) ad,·a.nced.
 ALEX: LIGHT BRIGHT AND BLOND

norher classic male complexion is fair skin crowned with golden

blond hair. Once again. the surest \vay to ensure your visage its rightFul due
is to buck it up with the relevant pagcanrry a · exemplified by these two

30
fas h.ion plates (right) . whose spot·t jacket and suit ensembles clearly publkize
DRESS CNG
rhei r gilded crowns.
THE NiAN Likewise. AJex. who has built his dressing St}'le around hjs distinc-
riYe colo ring. makes sure at least one item in each ensemble reflects his
gold-toned c01nplexion. In his fir ·t outfit (belo11' left). Alex looks classy. yet
nor enlightened. since his white shirt and bold striped tie do little to
enhance his specially-hued cotmtcnance. In his next. by pressing in to sen'-
ice an array of colors more congenial to his own. he elevates his face to a
higher level of stylish ·ophisticatio n. As long as Alex continues to ·wreathe
himself with those v1·arm golds. rusts. and browns found in his hair. his face
vvill remain center srage.
 TOM: MEDIUM CONTRAST

hen rou are as debonclir as Tom here, there is an abLmdance of riches to work with.
lll<lking it a chaJienge to rendc.r him in sub- par raiment. 1 lis plaid ·LLit"s Ughr- and-dark pattern
synch ron izes well with Toni's ovvn medium -contrast features. His conntenance would suggest
t:i tarting with a bl.ue dress shirt to play up his bespectacled orbs of cobalt blue, and redd ish or
burgundy necbvear to vvork the same magic on his slighdy ruddy skin ron e.
Although Tom's no slouch when swathed iJ1 this first combination o-f somber gray shirt
and maroon necktie (above lcj~. that look pales by comparison when juxtaposed ro the next one.
Things can't help but perk up when a strong blue hade of shirt and a ,·ery pink tie are lobbed
into the proceedings. Once again. echoing skin tone and eye sh:1dc i_n clothing helps lift the face
from smart to smarter.
 AFRICAN AMERICAN:
MEDIUM TO HIGH CONTRAST

rymg to apply the contrast- muted paradigm to the

African-A merican complexio n req uites .so me explanatio n.
T he fact char the ave rage African-Ame rican face. vvhether
black or light brov\TI, cx.h_ibits little contrnst between its bajr
and ski n tone \\,.o uJd seemingly qual if)' ir as a mttted faciaJ type.
I lowe,·c r. when a dark face. regardless of shade. is smrounded
b) a white shirr. considerable conrrasr results. Therefore. for
che African-Amerjcan man to get the most our of his clothing
combi nations. he shoLJd ap proach the enterprise as a medium-
to high-contrast com plexion, the degree of which is dictated b)
his indi,·iduaJ fa(e's relative depth of color.
Ralph Lauren didn't put the black modcll)rson Beck-
ford (cJppositc) in this highest of high -contr:lSt mamlt::s because o F
his bh.1nd countenance. Beck:ford,s extremely da rk skin produces
n·emendo us contrast with any clothing colot. Th.c rcfo rc. the
brighter and more dramatic the shadt: o fhis clothing, the better
he looks and the more radi&omt his skin tone .
... tepping down one rung on the contrast ladder. this
nc:-;:t man's medjum- brown faciaJ rones do not produce che
same ·tark effect as Beckford's. Conscquenrl): for rhis medium-
contrast complexion. choosing clothes with a definite, but not
deafen ing. intensity vvo tt.ld be appropriate. Integrating his strik-
ing blue ercs into his ensemble is certainl y a good way to start
Thi.-: third African-American man's skin shade is yet
another gradation down in cont rast, making his well-chosen
~· ~

sport jacket and matching T-shi rt ham1011 ize graccFuJJ y wit h his
coloring. lf one we re holding up each of the rhrce models, skin
to nes against :1 white ·hirt. the amount or contrast yielded
wou ld provide a dependable yardstick for determining rhe ideal
amount o r contrast that should be likewise used in the clothes.
 lnapprop riateJy scaled clothing is d1e root cause for the contemporary m;.m 's current
bck of sarto rial distinction. O bsolescence in mens" ·ear is built upon the manipulation of the
classic proportions. sometimes in vYays thar do nor flatter. as flared bottoms, o,·erly "houldcrcd
jackets. and ·qua re- toed shoes attest.
lt is said that the quaLity o f a chef can be judged b) his consomme. Likewise. a man's
dressing skill rests on his ability ro wea r the simplest clothes to iJldividual perfection. This is
essentially a l ess~m in proportion . T he rirst step in evolving <l distinctive yet long- rer111 dress ing
Sl) tlc i~ Fo1· each man to master t he st<.U1dni'd scheme of tai lored suit white dress shirt. solid
DR ESS I N'G
necktie. \vhitc pocket sqnare. wit h dnrk socks and shoes. This is not to suggest that he adopt
THE Jvl r\ N such formulaic attire. aJrhough ir ca n come in handy for ce rtain occasion~ .
\Nhile this classic outfit docs not constitute a stud) of all possjble dressi ng proportions.
its curriculum is fundamental to moving up ro the next level of sartorial sophistiGltion. The
relevance oF this specific s:;t.rtorial paradigm is that'' ithin it resides a series of mini- po rtraitures.
which. whe n knowledgeably rendered. fo rm <1 choreography oF ideal dressing proportions unique
to each man. O nce fumi liar with how best to exploit each fo r maximum personal ad\ an tag~. one
can usc them <:lS the bluep rin t for futLu-c t~1shio n explorations. As stated earlier. genuine innoya-
tion has aJ\\'ays taken place with an awareness. 1·ather than ~111 ignorance. of restraints.
Breaking down this ensemble in to a corporeal map. you discover that in o rder to tra-
ve rse it smartl y. fi ve major intersections must be negotiated-the neck, shoulder. waist, wrist.
and ankle. Each contclins a network of lines and curves that when co rrectly co nnected to oile
another enhances the overall aesthetic. Applying rhc whys of its collar deco r to you r face. o r
jacket lcngd1 to your body, improves ) our t~Ktd ty for less ritualistic rai_ment. such as t~1 il n rcd
spo rtswe~u· or casua l attire.
Fortu natcly, the face's ·hape. the neck's heigh r. the shoulder'· width. the arm·s length.
the rorso's structure. and the fOot's size remain fairly constant oYer time. eYen allowing for .. o me
weighr Auctuation. Unlike fashion. which is obliged to change seasonallr learning hm' to dre~s
well docs not have to be a case of stalking a constant!)' mO\ ing targer. Confining o ne's ~~1s hi o n
focus to those physical character·istics found betvvcc n hat and ho ·c will facilitatc one's maste rr of
,-;calc and proportion. Once these rules of c la~s ic for m rdating to his own unique physiognolll)'
arc understood. a man has every reason to feel confident about gctting his arms around th is stuff
Ler's examine in more depth the archi tectural logic and fashion rationale at work here.
 THE SUIT JACI<ET

llilc fj,brics and patterns usuc,tll y attract the C) e first. the suit's prop~).t:ti ons anchor ir
in time. r\ $Llit c:..xneme in silhouette is more likely to go out of srrlc bd()r(' it falls apart. ]Jl

assl:'ss·ing cl suit jacket's potential Life !'pan. (i,·e clements of design requ ire j:mrticuJar attention:
th ese arc th e garment's "bones." SJ1ould the co·;,1t's arc hitecture confl ict '"·ith that of rhc ·w~a rcr .,) -/
o r d.eyiatc too far from rhc archetype. the coat's staying pov\·er wi ll be significantly vveakencd. P ·ROPORTJON

THE JACKET S HOULD.ER .1\s its widest dimension. the shoulder sets th e mood lu r the
rest of the jacket. Sinee t he jacket's shou1ders ft·;;une the head. if they are n1o nat-row. the head
\•Viii appear larger than actL.t <l l size: conve rsely; iF cut too wide. the head will appear disp·r opor-
tionatcly small. Notice the differeti.€e in the shoulde r expression between Dollg )!'.'s sui,t ja~l-:er
and that of 1\·•lastc t· C-.ary (Jnlfo,Pingpage) . Doug's shoulders a rc built up to offset his wider het1d,
v.rhlk Cc:H)p's arc nJ.rrovv t.Uld more .slt1ped to h;,lnnoJlizc" ith his thiJlJler face and Jo.nger fr;:tmc.

THE CORRECT SHOU LDER~

WIDTH PRQPQRTION.

SHOULD ERS CUT TOO WIDE S.HOULDERS CUT TOO NA RROW

DIMINISH T H'E HEAD. MAKE THE HEAD APPEAR
LARGER i'HAN IT IS .

•
 ABOVE LEFT:

Douglas Fairbanks]r.s shoultlers are built u.p to <?.f!S~t his wider head.
ABOVE RIGHT:
Gary Cooper's shoulders a.re narro·w and sloped to balance with his
thin.foce and narrow.fi·arne.
OPPOSITE:
Dean Acheson in a natural-shoulder suit silhouette.
 The nant l·al -shouldcr suit ~ ilhoucttc udopted by the h')' Leaguers in the J9'0s came to
be identified "ith America's upper class and irs pruxipal pun·eyor. Brooks Brothers. Here is
the late secrcrarr oF state Dean \cheson i 11
I L) pical New England undcr ~ mrement. his Brooks
Bmthc t·s naturaJ shoulder :.111d fullr rolled butron -dovvn vvhispe ring thei r patrician prove nance.
C ompare his j~ckct's row1dcr sleeYeheads with those lightl y pu[Ced and contoured confections
.;;marring up Gaq Cooper's shoulders.
L.Jn less a mc.u1 is extreme!) slope-shouldered or so self-consciously short that he \\ants
hio.; shoulder line r~1ised ro produce :.u1 ill.usion o r~ height. sharply a_ngled or co.nsp.icuously buil.t-
39
up j<lcketshoulders should be ~l\oidcd. The)' look artifici<.ll and a rrivist e in taste. s1gnaling that PROPORTION

their wearer i ~Hrcmpting to appear rnore imporranr than he feels.

 JACKET LENGTH The principal criterion go\'ern ing a jacket"s length is that it be long
enough to cover the cLu-varure of the buttocks while giving the leg as long a line a..;; possible.
\~fbereas the ideal measuremen t of a man's jacket can \"<try b) up to 12 inch -vvithout compro-
mising Its l ongev i t)~ any mo re variation c~m play havoc v:ith t he hip pockets by mo\'ing t hem out
oCproper balance with the ''hole. It is qu ite t1ormal for a jacket to be lightly longer in front
than back i11 order to hang properlr
Due to the longer ::;wath lngs of the 1980s, d1c so-caiJed Armani era. the m8jority of
men wear their jacket and jacket sleeves far too long. +o rcshorrening both their legs and arms.
40
DR ESS ING
This is cspeciallr evident in the Far East. where the aYe rage person's torso is longer in relation
Tl-11: M AN to his legs. in comparison to the average person's build in the \ Vest uch a man needs to pay
particular attention ro his jacket's .l ength to help him reproportion his longer torso with his

.JACKET LENGTH

IN RELATION TO

THE TORSO:

DIVIDE IN HALF THE

DISTA N C E FRO IVI THE

CO L LAR' S SEAM

TO THE FLOOR.

RIGHT:
The longjacket
diminishes the
mans leg line.
 4J
PROPORTION

..JACKET LENGT11 IN

RELATIO N TO T H E ARM:

.JACKET'S BOTTOM

SHOULD LINE UP WITH

THUMB KNUCKLE.

'•

·barter leg ]j ne. In the illustration on the previous page, examine the length of the jacket and irs
diminishing effect on the man's leg line.
1\~o methods for dete rmining the correct jacket length originated '"'ith America's devel-
opment of ready-made men's clothing, which needed general guidelines upon which ro establish
lts standards of fit. T he first employs the arm as a guide; when your h~t.nd is dropped at your side.
the bottom of the jacket is uppo ·ed to line up with the outstretched thumb (above lifi). Though
generally reliable. this fo rmul a has one d rawback: arm length vari.es f rom person to person.
T he second approach (previous pag~ measures the distance from the jacket's back collar
(at th e poin tvvhere it joins t be coat's body) to t be1ioor. vvJ1id1 Ls t he n divided i n half Th is is the
procedure taught in most tailoring schools. Either of these two approaches can be influenced by
dimens ions un iq ue to the wearer; a top tailo r will use ne ither. trusting his practiced eye to t ake
in the who le picn.u·e before deciding on the jacket's ideal length.

THE WAI ST BUTT 0 N T he '"'aist button is to a suit jacket what the fulcrum is to a see-
saw. If incorrectly positioned. a de licate balance is lost, calling the garment's pedigree into
immediate question. The button functions as an axis: raise it too much. and the torso become
abbreviated : lower it too much, and th e torso is elongated at the expense of a longer leg line.
vVhen the waist button of a coat is fastened. it should di\'ide the body so that the torso
and legs appea r at maximum length. Observe the navy suit's elegant silhot.tette by following the
 Ii11e ri·om its trouser bottom up to the jacket's
waistline. The n·ousen;' Ful lness smoothes the
transition between the botton1 ~UJcl top h::Jves
of the s uit, stretching out the overall Figure. and
the coat's W3ist button ple1cer1ient enhances the
iUusion of along lcghne \Vh ile bel ping to ;,trticu-
late its inhabitant's chest an<;! shoLJders.
The correct pJaccmcn:t of rhi~ crirjca.l
detail occurs V2 inch bdow the nat ural wai::;t. To
find you r natural waist. place your hands aroLmd
the smallest part of yow· torso and then pre..lls
dowt'1 at the sides into the hollm" above the hip-
bone. lkcaL~sc t his all- important burton func-
tions as the coat's center point, a top a,·ile
Rm"·-trJined tai lor wiiJ grab the waist button in
the- final fitting and puU it from side to side to
tna.ke sure the coat has enough room to move
gracefully on the body.
ln an effott to dd8ng the overly ~tiff
tailored SLUt jacket. along ·v,rith culling its guts
out Giorgio A rmani lowered .its vvaistlinc and
extended its l ~ ngth. Although he creat~d a more
Huid-looking jacket with ~ to t::~ Ly differellt feeL
he doomed h,is early low-·waisted jacket~. along
with their numerou." wannabes, to lives of quiet
obsolescence in their ovvners' closet$. (Of co Lu·sc.
tbanl.s to Giorgio. J.ll tailored clothing is much
more comfort~b l e nowadays. llls positive im,lo-
vatio ns, on babn(e. transcended any t~t~hionc.1ble
excesses.)

THE GORGE AND LAPEL WIDTH

The go rge 'is d1at point 'vhe 1·e colbr :md lapd
meet to form either ;,i stepUke "notch.. or a
pointed '·peak'' · ~ZFfect. The positioning of t he
gorge on cbc j~Kket's chest shotdd be a li.mctiori of
one's build. not fashion ! Dwp it too low. and t h.e
tr.uncatcd lapel's line makes chc short man appear
The placeme11.t ofthe coat's waist butto1·1should divide the body
shorter and the hea,·y n1an look. heavier. If he is
so th.a t the torso an.d'legs appear at ma.x£1nu·m length.
short. a ma n 's lapel notches should sit high e r up
 on his chest. the longer lapel line emphasizing
, ·c rticality. As Coop's lm,er-sitting peaked
bpds illustrate. the taller man's lapel notches
GU1 rest a bit lmver in the d1e t area, condens-
ing the upper bodis length 'IYhilc extend ing
it~ breadth. 1\.vem:y yea rs ago. this clement of
rhc coat's design rarely came into question.
I lowever. once again, \VhiJe i njcctlng more 43
svvagger into the conventional man -tailored PROPORTION

jacket Armani and other· lovvcred irs lapel

go rges along with its waistline. looseningc uni
t..: \.. L,.l

both its classic demeanor and it· hold on styl-

ish longcYi ry.
In order for a buttoned suit jacket's
··v" opening to smooth!)' escotT rhe Yie\\'er's
ere LIP\\ '; lJ'd toward the EKe. the jacket's lapels
c.md the neckrie's width shOLdd harmonize.
~ i nee the bread:tb of the jacket's shoulder
gu·idcs its lapel width. a broad-shoulde red
man will nattlrally regLtiJ·e a -fLlllcr lapel For
proper balance. Like the singlc- bt·eastcd
norchc!' o n Gary Cooper's three-button (sec
page 38) or on Dean Acheson's n,·o- burton
coar (sec page 39). the single-breasted lapel
should cover between !\Yo-fifths to th rce-
fi frhs of the d istancc bet\Yecn the jacket's
chest and shoulder line. \\'hich usual!}· results
in the average notch lapel measuring from
33/s inches to -+1.4 inches in '"·idth.
\.Vhile peaked lapels need more
breadth to accommodate their upsweep
design , the) should nor be so broad as to
become conspicuous, such as those gracing
Doug Jr.'s chest (~cc page 38). ln the itwari-
ably dapper \lr. Fairbanks's case, his dra-
matic shaped lapd::. fall more into the arena
of period stde than of cle:L"sic taste.

Gar)' Cooper's lower~sitting lapels play down. his height.

 THE JACKET SLEEVE Properly cut jacket sleeves
lend a o·im, well-formed grace to the arm. Full at the
top. or sleevehead. and tapering down to the vvrist bone,
rhe sleeve's converging lines should conform to the
broad shoulder and narrowing waist of the jacket.
leeves that flap around the wrist not only Jack smart-
ness, but give the illusion ofheft.
T he b;md of line11 between jacket sleeve and
hand is yet another stylistic gestw·e associated with
the we'll-turned-out man. lt used ro be said that a
jacket sleeve vvithout a bit of visible shirt cuff below
made the hand appear as if part of it were missing.

THE SUIT TROUSER

,_,., ul t trousers should extend the line of the jacket.

Fuller-chested jackets require fuller-cut trousers. just as
more fitted jackets mandate shmmer~fitting trouser.
The proportions of today"s average suit have recovered
from the hip-hugging jeans mentality of the sixties and
the tight. low-waisted seventies fashions of the Pierre
Cardin era. Today. most suit trousers are pleated for
comfort with a longer rise, allmving them to reside at
the wearer's actual \vaisr. and full er at the knee than bot-
tom. follovving the natural line of the body
LLke the navy blue suit trousers seen earlier
and the gray flan nGJls of this·trayeler (oppositerigh~ . sui t
trousers shoLtld be worn on the wa.ist. not on the hip.
Not only does the waist then appear smaller, but by
raising the trousers' fuiJ ness, it can better filJ up the
jacket's bottom opening, thereby lengthening the
overall figure.

The proper tapering on the jacket sleeve.

 45
PR O P O RTION

Suit trousers should extend

the Une ofthe jacket thereby
le?1gthe11ing the overallfigure.
 THE DRESS Sl--IIRT

ust as the suit frames the collar. maki:ng it tile Focal po int of the shirt. t he shin co llar fl:ames
~he face. mal<i ng it the ~ynosurc of the ensemble. The choice of a dress shirt should be guided
first and foremost by the app ro priateness of its coll.ar sbape to that of the \Vea.re r's Face. Think
0J the face as cr picture ;;md the collar as its lra n:1c. A small picture req uires a Like-.scaled frame.
just as. a smalle r m::1n vvith delicate features rtc'g uireS a collar of rcstra..ined dimensions. CGn-
DRE SSING
Tl:l t JV1AN Ye rscly. wh ~ n the content is more expansh e. the frame nu,Jst <;o rrespondingl r enlarge.

THE NECI(TIE

he necktie's co rrect width has always been dete rmined by t he jacket's lapel. A man \Vitb
narrov,· shoulde rs has. less chest to drape a lapel across; therefore. the lapel's narrm·v cr d..i me n-
sian dictates that tie vvidth follow suit Conversely. a broad~shoulde red n'lm1 requires the se ry-
·9us lapel and rhus a larger-.~caled nc_cktie. As the cwerage s ingl~-breasted
ices of a .more geneL
n otch lapel ranges .in '\:'iridt h fro1u 33/s inches to 4~ inches_ at'!. equivalent ran.geoFhottom \Vidths
:..Yill lm1i1uJil.ze most neckti.es fro m the Yagaries·of high fash iort.
T he secret of t ie aesthetics lies u1 compress-
ing tJ1e kn ot so that it can dovetail high up into the
inverted "V" of the colla r's co1we rging side ·. To
enha11ee its staying povver, ad imple or inverted pleat
shoul.d emerg~ from under the middle of rhc knot. If
the tyi11g procedure is not executed -v,rith an eye
t O\l\:ard producing a taut knot. the knot will not have
the necessary spring to arc h out f ron1 the collar.
Jnstead of looking crisp and distinguis hed. it will
hang like a d~ad fish. w'ldermioingthe coin position 's
dignity. \tVith tbe preferred fmtr-i.n -hand smanlr
wedged higl1 into the collar and irs din1pJe lined np
directly under tlle upside-dm:vn "V" po.int of the
collar, a plum b une is formed, St~b.limin:J.ll y convey-
ing authority on the ,.vea rer~s part_ as one who is i 11
con1mand of his own stvle. J

Necktie wid'th should relate to lapel width.

 PROPORTJON

THE POCI<ET HANDI<ERCHIEF

~1e would be bard-pressed to find a pi entre of the Duke of \Nindsor. Fred J\st~1i re. or
any well -dressed Adam from the th irties in whic h some form of pocket square was not i11 e\·i-
dencc. The Last American politician to be considered St) Iish. President John F. ken ned). ne,·cr
left the \Vhite JJousc in a suit jacket sans pocket linen. Although most men arc intimidated by
st1ch vcsdgial raiment. no man can consider hi mscll. an elegat·lte vd thou.t knowing how to rig out
the simple white pocket square.
Bur in terms of proportion. one way to en.surc a n:-ttural effect is to angle the hank out-
w:;trd toward the shoulder. with its points irregularly a rranged. \ Vhcn worn Vlell. this eye cue of
1

sartorial refinement can add more than just polish: br echoing the slant of the jacket's lapel. it
rei nforces the breadth of the v..·ean:~r·s chest ellld upper body. Jean Cocteau·s casually fuded
pocket hank and unfurled jacker cuffs were trademarks of his unique dcg;:tgc dressing style.
 THE TAILORED ANI<lE

·om hat crease to trouser cuff. the

art of male habiliment can be divided into
a series of mini-portraitures. the most
southern being the rendezvous of trouser.
hose. and shoe. To effect a permanently
DRESSING
THE M AN smart aesthetic below one's knee. certain
rules of proporti.on must be respected.
Once again, it is the body rather
than fashion that should rake the lead-
the general rule of thumb being that the
trouser bottom shoul.d cover about two-
thirds of the shoe. Narrow trouser bot-
toms make large feet loom even larger.
while wide trouser bottoms make a small
foot appear even smaller.
This symmetry in scale between
trouser bottom and shoe remains an
immutable linchpin of permanent fash -
io n. Just like the slippe r-type evening
shoe vvorn under cufBess fo rmal dress
trousers. the round- or slightly- ·quare-
toed oArford. or blucher lace-up with a
welt-constructed sole. ranks as the id.eaUy
proportioned shoe for suit-driven attire.
The shoe's leaner line is enhanced by its
beveled waist. the center portion of the
sole that joins the heel to the toe. a feature
of all dress shoes as opposed to the square
waist used for stouter outdoo rs types. like
the Norwegian modeL The si_nuousness
of the shoe's form suggests its dressieJ"
intentions. wh ile its sturdier (nonglued)
"Welted soles offer the correct balance
under the weightier-appearing cufffed
trouser bottoms. For n1ore on shoes,
please see chapter 1o. "foot Deconm1."
Trouser bottoms should harmon.ize with shoe scale.
 PROPORTION AND BODY TYPE

hether short or tall. port1) or lim. most men

aspire to look lil<e some idealized vcr ·ion of themselves.
Although the model male fashion fi gure has changed
over time, fo1· the past eighty or so years the principal goal
has been to affect a tall. broad -should.~.: red, slim-waisted
appearance. Therefore. that archetypal physique \viii
serve as a reference point for the principles that follow
The rules for downplaytng girth or maximiz-
ing height can be helpfuL but they should always be
viewed as a guide rather than as dogma. There are m.any
well-turned-out men who consistently dress against
type. I can recall one portly patron of New York's
famous ·'21'' Club sitting down ro lunch in a butky
three-piece hetland vvool sLLit tailored out of the most
enormous estate plaid. "Wbjle its sc:oue violated every
canon of aJ1atom ical logic. the man looked positively
regal because of its impeccable cut and customized fit.
Back in the t1uxties. no group of swells was
alleged to have exuded more collective swank than the
Brazilian diplomati.c corps. Contrary to conventional wis-
dom that swore short men off double-breasted jad<ets,
these 5 feet. 7 inch ple1,jpotentiades not only preferred
their lounge suits double,. breasted but also finished than
off with another sartorial no-no: leg-shorte1,jng cuffs.
America's own guru of gesm.ral elegance. hoofer Fred
Astaire, al·way sported cuffed uousers, and he stood
barely 5 feet 9 inches.
Dressing for your body type is a subject pep-
pered with misguided prescriptions and arcane rules.
For example, heavy men are advised to avo.id double-
breasted jacket , supposedly because they add bLJk.
However, j n reality, if the jacket's peaked lapels roll
below the ·waist, their long diagonal slant will do more
for a man's avoirdupois than any line produced by the
single-breasted model. Similar!)'· ~ triped suits, which
tend to elongate the figure. should not be automatically The long-rolled, double-breasted lapel can
dow11play girth and maximize height.
 eliminated from contention just because a
man is talJ. The important thing is for the
·cale and strength of the stripes tO harmo-
nize \Vith the particular body t) pc: narrmv-
to mediLtm-spaced stripes for the thin
physique; slightly broader ~md less pro-
nouJKed lines for the fLLIIet' figure .

)0
SCALING THE HE I GHTS:
DR ESS IN G
TilE M .AN TIPS FOR S H ORT, HEAVY MEN
vVithout question, correctly cut clothes can
definitely aid t he short, stout man in
appearing taller J.nd thinner. \1\lhen an
ensemble's north and south lines begin to
replace those preYiously moving cast and
west. tl1ev, sb-etch out and narrow the cor-
NORTJ-1 AND SOUTH LINES pulenr physigue. To .elongate the figure. the
HELP THE 5 'H0RT, STOUT MAN
eye needs to be distracted from the vvaistline
A PPEAR TA LL ER AND T t; I NNER..

and led north to the shoLdders a.nd south

belo'v d1c knee$.
vVhether tall or short, the hca\'icr man. much like the thjn rnan, shou ld always drc.ss
"large." Jacket shoLdd be cut with tra.ight-hanging or slighrly shaped body lines so the)' appear
to hang loose from the shoulder downvvard. Close- fitting clothes reveal more than rhey con -
ceal. There is nothing like the look of a stuffed ausage to call attention to a man' · heft.
In general. short men are short. ph ysiologically speaking. because their legs arc propor-
tionally short in relation ro their tor ·o. Therefore, for a jacket to endo\\' such a physique" irh
the illusion of greater height. it must create the jmpression that the leg Jine is actuall y longer
than it really is. To accornplish this. the jacket's length needs to be kept on the short ·ide, vvhich
is tricky. because the coat's length must remain as short as poss ible ?-nd yet cover the seat or his
prlnts. If too short. the jacker \viii saw him in half; if too long, it\·vill abbreviate rhe appearance
of his legs.
Along with a shorter coat. the to rso can be optically elevated by raising its shoulder
line. The slightly higher shm.J dcr give the added illusion of elevating the torso while elongat-
ing the leg line. Tllis is not to recomrnend squaring the shoulder. since you want to a,·o id the
appearance of two right angles bracketing the head. Ninery-degree angle, punctuating the head
of any height-challenged man on ly emphasi£e th:lt which be wants to diminish- his phrsique's
lack of stantcsque distance from the grow1d.
The s ingl c-bJ·ea~tccL nvo-button jacket with a medium "V" that opens down ro the
waist is more Hattcring to the short figure than the higher. closed fronts of d1e tlu-ee- button coat.
quat figures should ~void jackets with stubby or ·hoLT- rolled lapels. because they accentuate
breadth. Thj.s includes the low-gorge designs
of recent fashion. Lapd notchc · for the
short-legged should rest high on the upper
chest. for a longer lapel 1iJ1e. Peaked lapels
with their upsv.rept. pointed ends accentuate
verticality more than the notched ,·ariery:
Jacket sleeves should finish to show a half
ir1ch of shirt cuFf: this heips balance off the SI
sleeve and shorter jacket length. The coat' PROP ORT ION

sleeve should taper down to the wrist bone.

so there is no e\.cess material jangling about
the hand. creating unnecessary bu lk.
Ianting lines minimize rorundit)~
-
Take the double- breasted jacket: whatever
extra thickness the double- breasted's over-
lapping layer of cloth may add across the
midsection. the slimming effect of its asym-
THE WELL-CUT DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT'S
metrical lapels more than com pen, ates for it.
SLANTING L INES HELP SLIM ALL BODY TYPES.
The DB's dia,gonal ly runni11g lapels lead the
eye ~·way from the center of the torso, and
their upcurving pointed ends elongate and
narrow the £·amc. Addi.tionaJly, the classic si.x-on-two double- breasted create an additional "V"
effect dm~ti the r=ront of the jacket. which helps scu lpt the to rso and slim the \Vaist.
\Vh.cn it comes to jacket derailing, less is more. Extra A ap~. like the change pocket, tend
to bulk up and horten lines. Beson~-style (unlhppcd) hip pockets create less thickness and
clutter than the Aapped varier)'. although the hacki ng (slanted) Aap pocket can chisel av\'a)'
breadth frorn the hip. Flap pockets are p referab le to the patch design. whose ex,rra laye r of fab-
ric adds heft.
Like irs front. the back of this body t) pc's ideal coat should promote a straighter line by
h~l nging Erom the shOLdders vYith a mini Ill lUll or contour at the\\ aist. Viewed from the ide, the
nonvented back cnn lend the corpulent hip a trimmer line; however. from the back. its one-
piece expanse docs little to break up the heavy rear end, particularly if the jacket f1ts sn ugl y.
When tailored to lie tlat. -ide vents e con the viewer' eye up the coar's sides. suggesting a
longer leg Li11e and overall impression of height.
A.., for the trouse r. because the short man asp ires to an illusion of height, he must wear
the su it trouser on his natural waist, not below it. Pu hiJJg the trou -er waisr down below rhe
bell}' is this body type's most common and counterproducri\e tendenc). hortening the
trousers' front line and forcing the pleats to open destroy the suit's potential vertical Auidiry.
The man with a prominent mjddle needs full trousers that hang straight from the
waist. By sitting higher on the w::tist rather thanlm"'er on the hip the trou~ers ·elevated fullness
 al o works to smooth the transition between jacket bottom and trouser. \1\/hat is to be avoided
is the impression of rwo legs pouring out of the jacket's oversize bottom cavity like two straws
in a j~u. creating a visual break that divides the figure in hal F. Following the same logic, men with
shorter legs should wear self-supporting or suspendered trousers since a belt's horizontal line
interrupts the suit's vertical Bm:~.:
Pleated trousers offer the man wirh a prominent middle m.ore fuiiJless in front so the
trott~cr can hang straight from the waist. 1f designed well. pleats also d ivide Llp the stomach

52 expanse. The reverse-pleat style (facing the pocket) may be more flattering for this f igure, because

DR'ESSTNG
they tend to lie flatter than the forward- pleated model (facing tbe fly) . Ti·ouser· legs should taper
THE MAN modestly fi·om thigh to bottom and sit on top of the shoe with a slight break.
Although conventional guidance advises against cuffs due to their horizon tal elfect. if
the trousers are pleated. the cuff's weight knifes the front leg crease vvhile better anchoring the
pant's bottom to the shoes. The cuffs mass also helps forge a more balanced transirjon between
the trousers· smaller bottom and larger shoe. particularly important for the heavyset man. ·who
needs Jarger footwear to counterpoint the volume above. The width of the shorter man's cuffs
should measLu·e 1% inches. lF uncuffed bottoms are preferred. they should break slightly on the
shoe front \Vhilc angling dov.r.Jl\·Va rd to the heel to prevent them ilapping about.
In the matter of m:1terials. to discourage the impression of bull<. solids and vertical pat-
terning should predomincuc. Colors sho uld remai n in the medium- to dark register, because
lighter colors tend make a stout physique appear larger. The n1ission .i.s to stretch out and pro~
more long. easy Unes. and the less co ntrast bervveen the two halves of the body. the lengthier tbe

THE MAN WITH A PROMINENT

MIDDLE NEEDS TROUSERS

THAT HANG QUITE STRAIGHT

FROM THE WAIST.
appearance. O ne color from top to bottom. d1e suit's ultimate color lesson. should generally be
the coordinating benchmark For this body type. Smooth fab rics such as fine worsteds mit1imize
t hickness. as do up-and-down patterns such as fine pinstripes. herri ngbones. and windovvpanes
longer jn the warp than woof

TIP S FOR THE SHORT, S LIM MAN like the heavyset frame. the thin physique
should al·ways dress "large." C losely fitted clothes serve to accentuate the narrow frame. The
n1ajo r difference betwee11 the short, stout body and the short. thin ooe is that t he latter's leaner
53
scaffold can entertain more defin ition to the torso. especially around the waist. In order to con- P R.OPORTION
struct thi , lightl y hourglass shaping. the short. slender physique needs more breadth across his
shoulders and chest and fullnes. Lll the upper trouser.
The ingle-breasted, three-button jacket would be ·welcome here. as when worn w1but-
to ned. each side fo.rms a panel down the front that creates an illusion of verticality. The double-
breasted model with lapels rotled below the waist would also serve to elongate this body type.
Flaps or patch pockets add weight to the jad<et's proport io nally smaller hip. effecting a better
overall balance between the top and botto m halves of the jacket. The height-challenged man,
whether wide or narrow. should a\'oid ensembles in '<vhich there is a pronounced contrast
between Lipper and lower halves. Hovvever, the thin man can wear lighter colors to better advan-
tage than his corpulent confrere. Fabrics '~' ith strong vertical Unes, such as some plaids and win-
dowpanes. as well as more textured A::tnnels and tweeds~ are very sympathetic to this body type.

TIPS FOR THE TALL The higher the tree. the broader its branches: ergo. the ·ix- footer
and above need · full-proportioned cl othing for both naturalness and style. As this guy has
plenty of ve rtica1Unes. he needs to produce more ho rizontal ones. His suit jacket should affect
an easy-fittiJ1g deme::m or, particularl y around the torso and waist, with ample breadth across
the shoul de rs and sufficient length for symmetry and balance. Tl1e rule of thumb on jacket
length : sho rt jackets on short men . long ones on tall men.
ince this bod)' type's shoulders ah·eady tower high above the floor. rus jacket's shoulders
should slope gent ly downward. The only reason for any extra padding or thickness would be to
build them out a little..A..Itl1ough slightly augmented in scale. the tall man's jacket shouJders should
pitdJ forward ever so slightly, contri buting ro the suppleness and softness encircling his upper strata.
As for jacket model, this man ca n wear them all. Double-b reasteds are helpful to the
cause. because the horizontal t hrust of tl1eir lapels can build out a man, especially if fastened on
the natural waistline, not below it. Another 'O ption wouJd be the single- breasted. th ree-button
jacket with generous width notch lapels that sit a fract1on low on the chest. such as those of NLr.
Cooper's illustrated earlier (sec page 38).
Details like the patch and llap pocket. an exua ticket packer. or turn-back sleeve cuffs
inject a sense of stylish clutter tl1at impedes the eye from making long. vertical sweeps. Here's
one ca e where a belt's horizontal personality could come in hand~. interrupting the occupants
Ye rtica1 roulade.
 Trousers should be long..._ in the rise and tai -
lored '' ith deep. for\\'<lfd-facing plc2t~ to bring a
comfortable ii.tllness to the front. f'aturall r. trousers
positioned any lo\\·er than on the n:nural "ai.stline
\\'t)uld spell sJrrorial disaster for the long oC leg.
Gene rously cut thighs need to taper gently down to
13; 4 -i nch cull-;. which are to rest on the shoe with a
generous bt·eak. And should thi.s high -rise gent be
ab le ro aiTord the custom mute. his prominence
,., ould prolic handsomely from the double-breasted ,
.;h;.t\\ !-collar \\'aisrcoat's str<ctight-fronted design (see
page 91 ).
~mall -pattcroed dorhcs only setYe to exag-
gerate a rail m;m·s length. To achic\'e a more natural
pmporrion. long- limbed lads need hJrgcr-scakd p~r­
term. prcfCr:Jbly those haYing some weight ~111d te'\nu·e
to them. like tlannds. cheviots. <utd surface- interest
woolens. If stripes ::liT fcJVorcd. they'll need some width
ror symmctT)' and softness for re·Rnemcnt. T he hori -
zo nt:11 K1rl11ation of checks. OYcrplaids. ;,md boxl ike
dL'signs has alwavs been ofbenefitin the beam deFxlrt~
~ J

mcnt. High-profile Gary Cooper cnlisr.s the p;1tlcmcd

sport coJt ~111d CL)ntrast trouser ro chip m,·ay at his clon-
ga ted plumb line.

TIPS FOR THE ATHlE TI C BUILD t\n

athletic physique is defined by rhe clothing industq as
a man" hose chest measures eight inches or more rhan
his waist \Nirh such an e'\aggcratcd V -shaped torso.
the goal would be to forge a mo re ~trc h itccturall y h~1i·~
moniou~ rd;nionship bct\veen the high ly upho l ~tcrccl
upper half of the body ;md the di.sproportioniJ rely
Details like a ticket pocket, pocketjlaps, smaller lower h<li-F. \\'id1ouc sacriRcing
'-
d1c mcr<lll ath ~
and sleeve ct~f{s help break down verticality. letic image.
l~cginning at the top. expansi,·e shou lders
and chest mean char d1e jacket's shoulder~ must be as soft and nantral- looking as possible. The
jacker·s length is critical and should. i( an) thing. err slighrly on the long side. \ \'hile its dimen-
sions need to balance the shoulder's bulk. it<; c\tra length must nor shorten rhc leg's line.
The .single-breasted. n,·o-burron modd "irh generous lapels positioned on the upper
chest will help pby do\\'n the shoulders· bre;1dth. " L) a~ notto pby up the :..llread) top-hea' 'Y look. one
 should aYoid any lUlncce . ary waist sup-
pression in the jacket. lust as the jacket
shOLJd be genrly shaped through rhe
waist! inc. the slce\ e ·houJd Iikewi e taper
gent!y dmYnward to the wrist. Jacket
detailing should be kept at a minimum to
acce ntuate the vertical line. although -Rap
or patch pockets can add weight to the hip 55
for a better balance with the shoulder. PR OIIORTLON

The suit trouser for the athletic

bLLild should be cut as full around the
hip and thigh as possible. fitting as high
on the \\·~list as comfortable. Its Full ness
worlc to fi ll up t he jacket bottom's large
cavir;. and its high-waisted place ment
translates to a longer leg line. TrolL"ers
, hould taper down ro a cuffed bottom
that rests on the shoe with some break
puJI.ing the eye all t he w:1y down to th e
\ -
floo r. fLJ ier-scale foonvear plus the
cuff's mass aid in countering the upsidc-
dovvn pyramid effect of tbe uppe r body.
Trying to emphasize the up-
and-dovm wh ile playing down breadth.
smooth-faced fabrics. such as worsted
stripes. herringbones. and even wi ndow-
panes longer in length d1an width. will
do ve ry nicely here. Assun1ing a broad
tace and thick neck. ve rrical- poin tiJ1g
dress shirt collars, such as tabs or straight
points, are rhe ticket to ride here.

Tarl men Uke Gm·y Cooper can wear larger patteri1S.

 INTO THE FITTING ROOM

__.._.._rc is ;.mall - roo- poignant example of why today's fashion -c011 cious male does not
dress better. As thi · conteniporary photograph graphically illustrate . even the most class ic
clothing can be compromised by poor fit. While th is bbck- and-wh ite shot projects an LLnmis-

s6 takable aura of elegance. the poor fit o[ the model's jacket and shirt col1;1r. not to mentfon his
DR £SS1 NG
dress shirt and jacket's voluminous cufCs. is <.me more reminder of the need ·for self-sufficie ncy
THE MAN in all matters sarto rial. particularly fit.
Once inside the fitting mom, surrounded by mirrors. tape measures. and the like. most
men relinquish questions of styling and fitto the store's salesperson <Or tailor. Years ago. when men's
fashions were Jcs ficlde CJ11d tailors were be~ter trained in the protocol or proper dress, this was a
reasonable act of faith. However. today's firt:i ng tc.1ilor is oFten obligated to alter clothes Ln conform-
ity with the wishes of the suit's desig1icr or
the store mvne r. \Vhile the independent-
minded tailor with real expertise can be
found, the preponderance of noor tailors
are simply duty-bound cogs in the store's
assembly Une, anxious to get you out with
as few alteratio1is as possible-hardly peo-
An example ofa. badfit. ple to deter to in matters concerning taste
or correctness.
Fortl.Ulatcl): the correct fitting of
a man's suit is not the arcane science that
it i · often made out to be. lt is something
that can be learned. .. incc a man's suit is
made to fit a standard form and oo tvvo
people are builr exactly aLkc. only one
man in a hw1dred is likely to step into a
ready-made suit and find that it needs no
alterations. Once :1gain. the rnore knmvl.-
edgeable you can become about how your clothes should Ht in relatiOj1 to your unique architecture.
the more likel)' you are to walk out \Vith an elegantly tailored result.
As tor the prel inun;;~ ri es. when first putting on a ready-made s1.1it to be fitted. make
sure you ha,·e your wallet in yo u.r pocket and your keys o r cell phone wherever you normal.ly
keep them . No sense in haYing a breast- pocket billfold produce a bulge whe11 che suit G111 be
altered to bide it. It is also a good idea to wear or bring along a representative dres~ shirtvvith
the correct sleeve length and collar height to help in t he f itting process. Dress shoes 'With the
proper heel height can aid in estab lishing the correct trOLtser length and bottom v\·idth.
 I NCORRECT FIT OF JACK ET COLLAR

... t

S7
PR OPORTiON

STANDING AWAY . BUNCHING IN BACK.

Propel· fitting can do much for an jnexpensive suit. w.h ilea poor fit can scuttle the mo~t
cxpcnsindr hand- tailored creation. If a three- thousand- doiJar suit's collar bounce. off yo ur
neck as you vvalk. the suit's value w·ill be .se\'erely compromised. The jacket collar that creeps up
or stands away From your neck is tbe fault of the tailor. unless you asstu11cd a posture other than
rour normal one during the fitting. After slipping on the rrous~rs and jacket. rand naturally in
front of the mirror. and not as if rou had just graduated \Vest Point or a 1·c anticipating losing
ten pottnds.
Having already established that the jacket' "bones" harmonize with yo ur O\vn . rou
should begin the suit's fitti 1g at the top. In addition ro the shoulder's relationship ro the head ,
its width ncecL' to be generous enough to permit the jacket's fab ric to fall From t he shoulder in
~w unbroken line alJ the \Yay down the sleeve. Also needed is enough fullne ·s across the back
and chest fo t· the lapels to lie flat vvithout gapping open.
This part or the fitting procedure can GlLLSe all kinds of problems. because there arc
those men . frcqucmly accompanied by like-m inded won1c:n. who feel that for a man's jacker to
fit t0 pe rf~cti o n , it should be \Vrin.kle-ft-~c. meaning it shouJd look as if the fab ric were painted
on the body: For starters. there should be sufficient fullness over the shoulder blades for a slight
break. or fo ld of ~~1bric. to extend up the back from below the armJ1oles. L:nless the wearer
doesn't mind donning a -Aawless ly fitting straitjacket, these folds ensu re that there is enoLLgh
room for moYemcnt and comfort
Fifty percent of all tailored jackets need some kind of collar alteration to make them
hug the \\'Carer 's neck. \Vatch that the collar does not stand m:vay or have horizontal ridges
below the base of the neck a sign that the collar must be lowered br cutting a\\'ay the excess fab-
ric under the coiJar (t1bave) . Tr there arc tension lines pulling acros!- the shoulder blades, the back
is too tight and must be let out a little,
 The jacket collar at tbe back
should ahvays be at such a .height th<olt at
least half an inch o-f shirt collar shows
above it. This vvay the jacket not onfy
looks best but hangs correctly. \~!ere it any
hjgher, the collar would chafe against rhe
neck; were .i t lower. the jacket -would look
as lf i.t -vvas sliding off your back Since
DRESSING
many fabrics fit and drape differ~rly, this
THE MAN is a comnwn alteration that can be com-
petently pe tformed by most store tailors,
Once the jacket's shoLuders1 chest
FULLNESS 0.~~~ T HE BlADES and neck are deemed .satisfactory, continue
Al-LOWS T HE JACK ETTb DR.APE
the inspection dmi\rnward. The waist
C()M FORIABILITY AND ~ELEASES

T HE ARMS T O MOVE FREELY. should be slightly suppressed. responding

to the natural curves of the body under-
neath. You cu1 teU if the fit is roo tight by
looking for X-shaped lines forming on
either side of the fastened waist button. IF too pro11ounced. d1e waist should be let out. \ t\fhetJ bur-
noned, it should have enough room for you to sit down comfonabl)~ although no style points are lost
for unbuttoning a jacket vv.ben seated. The tailor can usually adjust the waist to your l.ild.ng, but be
c;::areful n ot to have it raken in to the point where horizontal ~reases appear in the smaJJ of the back,

·.

.JACKET COLLAR NEEDS CORRECT AMOUNT OF SHIRT ..JACKET COLLAR NEEDS

TO BE LOWERED . COLLAR SHOWING, TO BE RAISED .

 "X" MEANS CORRECT
THE .JACKET IS PR OPORTION
CLOSURE.
TOO TIGHT.

mgging on th~ jacket's h.ip and pulling the rear Yent(s) open. Back vents should hnng in a straight
line perpendicular to the Roor.
The jacket .slee,·es should also hang straight. with no horizontal wri nklcs or breaks form-
ing on the uppe r arm. l Fa 111:111 carries his arms e ith.er too much to the front or back of the coat. the
<ilec,·es will not lie smoothly. and they should be remoYed and rotated accorcLngly A good tailor
"''ill rccomme11d such an alteration (and ch8rge
you for it) . The jacket's slce\·c should taper to
the vaist bone. w·irh a bottom opening mca,o.:-
Lu·ing around si'\ inches in diameter. or no
larger than to frame the shirr's cuff.
"lvlost men wear their jacket sleeves too
long, either because of recent fashions or their
tailo r's lack of sophistication. As for the correct :8
{)
lengd1. a man's arms ought to be his guide. The -o
jacket sleeve should e~"Lend ro where the wrist I
brcal.;.s with the hand. If the arms are on the
short side, ~ inch of shirt cuff can peep Out

below the coat ·lccvcs: if long~r. lil<.e Gary

Cooper's. 3/ 4 inch to 1. inch will give the arm a
DRESSING THE HAI~D :
better proportion. The band of linen bet'v\·ecn_
NO LESS THAN A HALF-INCH OF' SHIRT CUFF'
sleeve and band is one of the deuils that deli ne SHOULD SHOW BELOW THE JACKi:.T CUFF.
MOST MEN WEAR TH EIR COAT SLEEVES TOO LONG.
the sophisticated dresser.
 o-

60
DR.ESS I NC
:
THE Mi\N

TH E TROUSERS' WAISTBAND MUST BE COVERED BY T HE VEST.

WAIST COAT The fitting of any tailored waistcoat should be done \\'ith its back strap fas-
tened-. The adjustable rear belt gives shape to the vest's waist Iine and discourages the vest From
riding up the torso during the course of wear. The \\aistcoat's chc.:-st should be full enough to
all ow its vvearer to sit comfortably with no hin t of looseness ~t rhe Wi:1ist. O nly a small segment of
\\'aistcoat, re\ eal ing no more than the top butron. should be visible c.lbO\ e the jacket (sec page p ) .
The vest must be long enough to cover t he trousers' -vvaistband, stopping in front
before its points extend below the hipbone. A delicate balance must be forged between the
trousers' waisr and the depth of the \'est's "V'' points: the whole edifice vvou ld CJTU11ble should it
expo e a patch oF shirt or belt buckle.
~ uspcnders arc the recommended antidote for the gap that typ ically develops bet\vccn
suit trouser and \'Csr. They raise the trousers' wa.istband so it remains covered by the' est. \\'hile
bringi.ng the trousers' pleat.s and Yest's points into better harmo ny with each ocher. Vests and
belts shou ld choose different dance partners. A strip of leather encircling the sto mach adds
more bulk to an already layered waistline. and bdtcd trouse rs also tend to slide down the hip.
freq uentl y reveali ng the undesirable presence of a belt buckle.
Top-quality vvaistco~lts have slits on either l-id e. the back 'en rs extending below the
front so as to keep the trousers' rear v\·aistband from shm'\·ing v-rhcn it$ wearer bends fo rward.
ll igh-class railor- n1ade \\·aistcoars haYc slightly curved fronts. echoing the rounded shape of the
single-breasted co~t's fronts (.see page 15;). The \·est's button stance is designed so that irs bot-
tom button is left undone. a custom dating back to the eighteenth ccntt.u·y. when Ed\\'ard V 11. a
corpulent sovereign, forgot to bunon his after an unusuaLl y vigorous repast with the ove rsight
ultimatelr taken and handed down as a style indicator.

TROUSERS \Vhen fitting trouser ·. the cardinal rule is to wear them as high on the waist as
comfortable. lli p-pos.itioned pants wi ll m::1kc the crotch hang too lov\ and lo.ok sloppy. More-
over. the cLu-varurc of the lLip rends to spread pants pockets and pleats. Like rhe jacket' arm-
hole. the trousers' fork should fit as high as hospitable jf it is to Facilitate
muH'ment comfortabl).
\Vicl1 pleated trou e t... the hip and thigh musrbc cut full enough
so that t lte pleats lie flat :.md do nor pu.IJ opc 11 whe11 standing. The fLinc-
tion of the pleat is to respond to cl1e natural ~widening of the hip and seat
\\hen sitting do\\'11. l C}'OLl <UT llOt prepared tO \\car trousers \\ j th a more TROUSERS SHOULD BE WORN
ON THE WAIST, NOT BELOW.
generous front. stick with d1c plain- front trouser. vVhcn one is St:ltldi_ng.
the t rousers· fmnt leg crease should bisect the kneecap t.m d fin ish in the
middle of the shoe. ll·ouser creases should err toward the inside of the
knee: those fulling m the outside create rhe illu. ion of breadth. ·omething
most men prcrer to avoid.
lf it is ro be vvorn on occasion with suspenders. 111akc sure the
trou cr is Fitted \\ ith them, since suspendered trousers can change the fit
/
of the \\'aist. back rise. and inseam. Th cl1cm on in the standing. sitting. and
leg~- cros.sed positions. ll·ouser.s intended to be wo m exclusively ,.,~th sus-
penders should allow more room in the vvaist 1-iO that they can ''.su~pcnd"
from the shoulders.
Today rherc arc several schools of Lhought on the length of a
trouser. Ln the Sta res. they ~tre oCte n worn to rest with a slight break. or
"shi\'Cr." o n top or the shoe. In this case. they shou ld be long enough to
THE TROUSER CREASE
cover the ho~e \\'hen a man is in stride. with a '~ idth that conceals the SHOULD INTERSECT THE

shoelaces. Pbin -bottom [I'OUSC I'S should slant downward from rront to MIDDLE OF THE KNEE
AND B ISECT THE MIDDL E
back so as to not ~1)' away at the heel when the man is walking. IJ cuffed. OF THE SHOE.

their width should be neither so narrm.y nor so wide that it ca ll ~ atten-

tion to itself For rime-honored balance. the proper width of trou er
curTs shoLLld be 1 5/g inches for a man u11der 5 feet. ro inches. and 1 3; 4 inches if taller.
Anothe r approach is that of the Europeans or. more specificall)'. theM ilanese, ,.,·ho wear
their trousers n~1t-rvw cut and Cl little on the short side. even showing some sock. In this case. the
pants sir just Light!} on the shoe. Signor Luciano Barbera. head of an Lralian menswear company
that bears his name. Gills ir the "m id-Atlantic solution." since it is halfwa) bcrween ELu·opc and
America. Although he doesn't want to sec your socks. he docs \V~lnt to see your shoes.

CUF'FEb BOTTOMS SHOULD REST TH E MID·Al'LANTIC SOLUTION CUFFLESS BOTTOMS SHOULD

WITH A SLIGHT BREAK ON TOP SlANT TOWARD TH E HE.EL.
OF THE SHOE.
 but the spare-;r outfit.'' hile on others he "'·ill not be abk to get enough decoration. Regardkss
of the c.1ppro:.1eh. the ~1bi lit) to -,vvitch from one Ill ode tQ anotlw r is an cssenti<l l skill in ~Ul)' man's
drcs~ing rii'SL'nal. On the pr~KticaJ front. a dc:--rcrit) for harmonizing pattem ed clothes can lend
ver:-ati Iit) to a wardrobe o( modest means as wd I as incrcase the number or combinations whc n
tr~l\ eli ng wi rh Ii 111 ired luggage.
The hi:-toq L)f pc.uterned 1-'ashions and their rise to sartorial sophistication has irs ori-
gi 11s i11 the carl} L9J.Os. when lllt'll begc.1 n to experiment with a varief)' ofks.s formal g:1rmcnts <lS
a resu lt of -;pending so much ti me ih the function-d ri n:- n gear of \~!odd \iV:u I. Patterned artirc
DRFSSIN G
al:-o represented a dcp~uture !-rom the srjA~ stolid Vicrorian dress oF rhe prewar yea rs. The ne\\
THE .M.\N lounge com's caS). tlowing line' inspired men to loosen up ;1nd .smd l the roses.
\\ 'hilc the da.-,h ing Pri nee o( \Vale~ cstabl ishcd ma nr of rhe styles that came to be iden,
rifled with the era's "man abotlt tO\\·n:· perhaps his mostdcCiningcontribution ro popLdar t<lStc
was his insatiable appetite (o r pattern mixing. Throughout his life. lhe Prince was routinely
phowgr~tphed in anr numbc l· of :llldacious COJlSO l'tiums o·f checks. stripes. ;111d piJids. A nd he
wo re them all "'' ith an <lplomb dcYoid of arrogance. 11.>rmaJ and fastid io us wirhour a hint of
stuiTine"s. \VhiJc his interest and affinity for clothes ,,·as no doubt e'\ceptional in the annals of
modern mens\\'ear. his particular fondness ~or pattemed attire \\as as much a function of his
13riti.shncss as his roral birth.
T he [ngJish ~1 ristocracy spent considerable time on their coun tr) estates. and their dress
:l~'ltl r rcnected their outdoor lifc.sryle. with large-patterned.
splash)' hued c~tatc suits as the fcl\·ored regalia. The cottish
in Aucnce of Balm oral Castle and other 1'0) al hunting lodges
paved the way for the introduction of indi' iduaJ district checks
and clan tarta n ~ into ~state Ji,·ing. Hosts and guests were regu-
lady kirted our in local I fighland fare of tarrans. tweeds, plaids.
and arg) les. As the philosopbet and confcs-;cd Anglophi le Andre
~ laurois once obsen·cd. "There is something affected and delib-
erate abou r the casual ness of shaggy fabrics in "h id1 a con ri ncnt
dresses, " ·hile the English kno,,· how robe truly casual and there-
fare trul r elegant."
As For rhc noblem;1n ·s seat irscl ( m<tlcmg~s of color and
pattern \VCre strewn about to warm up the typically coJd. cav,
crnuus mano r house into a place of li . . ·ed- in warmth and casual-
ness. The typical English countr)' room \\'as an eclectic amalgam of
~1ncestral heirlooms. antique tapestries. and chintz-covered fi.tmi,
tltlT. puncruated by overc;ized shocks of fresh flowers. T hus the
[nglish country squ ire t·o lllid himself sLtrrounded by a plethora of
ABOVE · visual "timuli.
The J'Outzg Pri11ce £ij\'Xlales in ro}'al attire. Howe' cr. unJikc other roung men of rcgaJ birth. the
OPPOSITE : (uturc king of [ngland dc,·ored a considen1blc part of his ado-
The Prince qfWales had an insatiable
appetite j0rpatt-er11 mL'dng- here are four.
 LEFT:
Prince Charles
carries on the royal
pattern traditio11..
R IGHT:
The Prince ofvvales
checkedfrom
/1.ead to toe.

lescencc to the Fitting ;,Uld donning of \'ividlr colored and elaborately decorated clothes that
bon:- some myal. military. family sign i:ficancc. Such a diverse and exte nsive wardmbe
0 1·

requited d1e ful l- time sc1Yices of four 111en just to l> rg:a nizc and t1·e:1.nsport it ,., hen the Prince of
'vVa'lcs tr~vclcd.
G i v~ n the stri ct dress requ irements of his yo uth, wit h its disc iplined and ne:-lrly retishLs-
ri c atte nr ion ro detaiL it's IJO wonde1· rhatas soo n as he "''as old enough, the Prince tbrevv. off th e-
shackles oF his parents' Edwardian fo rm~tlit) . ln doing :-:o. he created a vvoddwide ~W<}.re ness a11d
·d emand for his l.iberated dress. which t he French later -termed "chic ratigue.'' denoting an easy.
c:1.s ual sty!ish ness.
\Vith aFil uent h') League collegiares taking their fashio n cues from vacatio.rts spent
atte ndi ng the n.!>wing races at Oxford ~ nd ·cambridge. Angloman·ia was at a feve r pitcb. \~hi l e
they brought home interp retatio 1is of the cloth~:\ \\•O rtl by the das hi 1ig Princt of \iValcs. men
fmm around the globe turned to the British heir for cluc!-i on h0\-'1' to dress for spo rt and o::wel.
Pretty soon, fashionab le men everywhere began to realize that cor=nbining t\vo or more p~itterns
,,yithin an outfit imbued them with an <lllra ofd istinctil111 and urbanity.
 MIXING TWO PATTERNS OF
THE SAME DESIGN

arrowing the wo rking C:.lll\'<lS to the imeraction of the suit. dress shirt. a11d necktie
greatly simpliFies rhc partcrn-cOL)rdin;lting tutorial. The fi rst step roward pattern - mixing
prmvcs is lea rning how to mate two like- patterned garments. ~uch as a striped tie witl1 a
striped dress shirt, or a checked necktie with a plaid suit. \Vhen combin ing two patterns of the THE
PRE I~OGATIVE~
same design. d1e ize of each should be :1s different from the other as possible. otherwise the OF PA TTEJ~N

simi l;;, rity vYill produce an optic2l ill usion of movement or ,·ibr<.ltion .
Cary Grant ensures the visual compatibilit:) or his two !'\tripes by va rying their spacing.
allov\ ing the viewer to eas il )' di.sti ngu ish one rrom the other. The .solid necktie's subtle diaJoguc

Cm~y Grant keeping his stripes

tiifJerent settles.
 68
DIH.SSiN C.
TIT E l'Yif\ N

with each stripe ~!so enhances the overall

ease on the eye. ABOV£:
Fred.Astaire achieves compatability
Ever the style sette r and cyc._r
with -two stripes ofvarying spacing.
comfortable with hi.-: c1L1thes, Fred
BELOW:
Astaire was certainly no stranger to shuf-
DoN'T 1nate two two stripes that are similar i11 size.
flin g around different patterns. Here he
chooses the pcJfcctdancc partner for his
fow·-in-hand; h..is Brook.:~ button-down·s
closer-sctstrLpe arrangement has no dif-
Ficulty follovving the lead of the repp tic's
larger-spaced-stripe design.
Al.ternati velr. herc:s a lesson in
how not to mate two sttipes. Although the
overal l ensen:tble is artfull y arranged. rhc
tie's bar-stripe design a1nost duplicates
that of the suit's. fOrcing the eye to \\·ork
ove1·timc and strai n for focus.
 MATING TWO CHECI(S

L tylis hl r combining two checks requires a bit more sa,·oir Caire than co mbining two stripes.
However. the risk c:1n be held "in check'' by once ~1gain impo~ in g <=!. healthy dose of contra..'>t
bet\Yeen the sGtle of each pla)'cr. folio" ing closely in ~I r. Lauren's (oot-;tcp~ (tzl>lH'dqfi). ~ I r. Agnd Ii
(trbol'e right). ~mo th er men's ~tyle innovator or estlblished legend. takes 11 0 chances 011 his two
checks cb ·hi11g. keepi ng them about as dif-
rerenr in size as a fiat is ti·om a Ford.
DoN'T wear t11'o checks t!zat are similar in scale.
r
I th i~ assemblage to Lhe right cloe-;n'r
make you squint. plcm;e collect rwo hL111drcd
dollars and proceed to the ne3rest optome-
trist \ Vhen two similar-srzc checks are placed
in close proximity. l~1111iliarity can b1·eed confu-
sion. lm onl),. docs their lack oF congenialitY
'- '
undermim:· the ensemble's overall effect, bLtt
with the battl~ficld situated right below the
face. life is unnecessaril) difficult for the ob-
s~rve r ' s eye.
 MIXING TWO DIFFERENT PATTERNS

hile tile agency of o;;cale W<1S used ro scp~1ratc two like patterns. in the case of two
unlike patrcrns. scale mtL<;t ~ l.so be emplorcd ro harmonize them - bttt \\·ith :.1 Cl)nvcrsc rule
applied . Two si 111 ilar patterns necessitate' arri ng s ize~ ro avoid oppos ition: however. coordi 11at-
ing rwo diffe1-cnt p;1tterns. :'uch as ~1 sr,·ipcd suir ;l!ld a check dre~s shirt. o r a plaid jacker and a
70
l'ibTtm~d necktie. neces~itates keepi ng
th em close in size.
DlU.:SS I NG
THE MAN The shirt-and- tic merger bclm\ illustrntes this point. A dominant- patterned dn:ss
shirt requ ires a necktie with a dcsigt1 at lc:l!'lt equal in .SGllc: otherwise. the strength oC rhc sh ir t's
aesthetic \\'ill eclipse that of the necktie's. This open spaced striped ~ hirt (bcloll' l~{i) dema_nds ~l
large- figured print necktie for proper pattern parit}. The I~Kt that the tie's color rcli ccrs that or
the shirt (urrhcr ad,·ances the combination's Sl11:lrtlleS~.

This next S\-clte boulcYardier (bch>ll' ,-;ght) emph<lsizes his distinct bold suit by mating it
\\'ith '1 11 equally spirited necktie. Notice ho\\' rhe spaci ng of his necktie's stripe-; melds'' irh the
size of the suit's plaid. \7\' hen in doubr abl)ltL coordinaring a second prominent pattern with a
(j 1·sr. choose u larger rather than a smaller dc:-,ign. , \~ ·pt'C\ iously demo nstratcd . the arrangcmem
of the rwo patterns il' further abetted b)' the necktie's rcpctftion of the gn rnct-colored
Dvcrchcck in the su.Jt's plaid.
Like ~1 11 guidelines. there arc ~1 l ways cxceprions. The bi&,rcst challenge in combining two
pmterns ham10niousl) occu rs" he11 Olll' design happens tn be partiCLdarly small. PicKing two small
patterns ne~1r each other. whether simibr
or 110t. wil l wreak ha,·oc on the eye ol the
beholder. Y<.m rare!} sec a 111~111 on Lclevision
\\caring t\\ o small patterns. because d1eir
\ ibre1ring cH.ect distorts the camen1's tixus.
ll.) safeguard optical clarity w he n
coordinating one small p<lttcrn wirh <l
second, one design must be signiFicantly
larger. Consider t his next coordinatiOt1 nf
two small patterns (abot~c right) , and )'OU will
immediately re~1lizt:' that i. ts miniatun.: scale
forces the eyes to work overtime ro <Woid ~1
blur. 1\lterna ti\ el). the mini- hou ndstooth
composition manage!' to f~1rgc a ,·isual har-
mom. beGlLL"c the necktie's foulard moti ~s
'
arc \paced h11· enough apart to distinguish
themsdres from the suit':-; diminuti\ c
check p;:~ttern (apposfte r(~ht).
Keep the sc(rles equal to harmo11i.ze two dt[fere11tpattcrns.
 71
T ,/'JE
PREROG ATIVES
OF PATTERN

lOP·
illl pafferm
cnuu Jascord.
BOTTOM .
~TJ pattern
::ta to be relieved
c lurger o·ne.
 MIXING THREE PATTERNS

J on\'cntional taste has guided us . afcly to this \'antagc point, but sealing the next peak
of patterning wil l require a bit more sartorial rope- from this point o nw~1 rd. reward <lnd risk go
hand in hand. The safest route to the happy rendeY\'OUS of three patterns ''"ithin one ensemble
is wl1cre each design d iFfcr~ fn:Jm the others. -.,
I ?
Following the same tra.il that helped us unite unlike patterns. we again rei) on tl1e
THE
medium of sc1lt tO s~rfcgu <c1 rd our footing. Obsene l)rronc Power's. strategy (apposite). By main- P Rli R 0 (; J\ T 1 V r S
oFPArrERN
taining a consi:\tcnt ::~mount of contrast and scale n·ithin his
ensemble's compone11ts. he makes the overall cnterp1·isc appe::tr
relativclr elfo rtless. Sim il~1rlr in the illu~tration to the right,
the dimension of the suit's herringbone pattern. the size of
the dress shirt's check. and the width of the necktie's stripe ~111
acco1·d in proportion :.md weight \Vith one anothe r. Even the
border of the pocket handkerchief reAccts the bolder stature
of this multi patterned rown outfit.

OPPOSITE :
Tyrone Power wearing three d@rent patterns.

RIGHT:
Using t:he sam.e scale to hold together mu.!tiple patterns.
 MIXING THREE PATTERNS WHEN
TWO ARE THE SAME

e encounter an e\·en more demanding slope when rwo ofthe three playe rs share the
same de~ign. such as two stripe~ ru1d a check, or rwo checks an d a stripe. In this case. safe passage
; -!- can be assured only by separ3ting the tv,·o like desjgns in size vvh ile selecting a11 unlike pattern
DReSSING that is' isuall) compatible with both. In this example. the two stripes are kept at arm's length by
THE MAN
virnu? of their differing scales. whtle the necktie conso rts h~uKlsomely with either stripe.
D itto For the check-o n-check class ic bdow.
T he dress shirt's smaller check is app.eali11gly framed
within the suit's bolder check. \ t\/ hen sporti11g a tri-
umvirate of patterns in wh ich two share the same
design. the odd Olle o ut .(in this case. t he neck-
tie) must take its cue from the more promi-
nent of the two partners.
Notice the usefi.tln~s of a larger-pat-
tenled necktie in harmonizing .111any of these
multiparrerned compositions. Of all neckties,
the opcn-grouncllarge-spaccd motif affords the
greatest possibilities for textural har-
mony. Multiple-patterned ensembles
often require at least one larger-scaled
design for proper balance. and these
bolder-all-over neckties ;ue indispens-
able fo1· accomplishing just such an
:1esrhetic accord.

TOP :
,Correct balance- large stripe, small stt'ipe, largepaisley;

LEFT:
Correct balance- large check, small check, large stripe.
 MIXING THREE PATTERNS
OF THE SAME DESIGN

he air continues to thin at this ~1 lti tude as \ 'Ve leave solid

ground and rule of tlwm b, guided nov, only b) int·uition and experi-
ence. Brandishing three plaids or three stripes ral ls very much withjn
the parameters of traditional elegance; however. such an enterprise
is fraught wjth the risk of contrivance and self-consciousness.
\t\lhethcr such a conYergence strikes the observer as the ununit of
'tylc or the edge of arrogance depends on the " ·earer's skiU.
Once agajn. scale becomes the blueprint for success. Follow-
ing the technique for dea1ingwirh two like patterns. scale must nO\\'
work overtime to i111pose a sjmilar discipline on rh rcc. Sometimes
these creations go easier \Yhe n graduating in size from small out to
large, begin at the base with the smallest step and proceed o n up.
-n1ke a look at Basi l Rathbone's graduated arrangement of
checks (top). Starting\vith his shirt's small tatte1·sall. he bui lds u.p to the
jacket's larger houndstooth d1eck. and rhc11 extends things outward to
the jacket's larger plaid pocket square. Likewise, Prince Charles (cente1)
jumbles around three plaids with a display of aristocratic aplomb.
The same basic geometry applies to succcs -fu lly choreo-
graphing three stripes (bottom). O nce again, such a linear scenario
fal ls \err much within the mainstream of sophisticated ra..o:;re. and.
like the plaid trio. its fortune rests squarely on the skill of the
wearer. ln melding three stripes. start with the smallest at the base
and then branch up and out l.n scale. By building upon each ·trtipe's
graduation in size, the arr;,u1gement is infused 'vVith dimension and
propo rtio n. min1mizing the potential fo r contrivance .inherent in
such repetition.

TOP:
Graduating checksfi'om shirt outward.

CENTER:
Prince Charles in three checks.

BOlTOM:
Graduating stl"ipesfi'om shirt outward.
 MIXING FOUR PATTERNS

a\·ing now arri\-cd at the summjr of p~utern pas-

tiche. we haYe reached the point ''here inspirJtion trumps
imitation. Collecti,·clr. these next toffs probably ,·iolarc every
rule o l~ pattern mixing in the book. lobbi11g a fC"' of their m•n1
.in For good measure. This super-secret wo rld·widc Order of
DR f .S .S /Nl:
Tll£ NIA N Dandies (:.1 ll1m \Molfc <1ppcllation) dress almost cxclusi,·clr
for themseh cs. undaLmted b) an outcome that might contra-
Ye ne cO il\'Cil rio n or raise eyebrow ·. They relish t he challenge
of a fine matcb. Is thi.s.c.lrt or simplr ,·aniry?
rred J\staire (center r(~h~ once compared dressi ng well
to putting on a sho,,·-he had to rchc:.u·se in order to get it
right. I Jere arc just a fe"· of the fdlo\\-s \\'h o ha' c practiced
long and hard , a.nd ha\'e e\·err th i ng to sbm\ for it
Luciano Barbera (apposite pa~r;[e) is one of those fcv.- con-
tcmpor:.u·y men whose personal tc.1stc and code of conduct set the
standard by '' hich ma.ny in the business of menswe<:1 1· measure
2:cnuinc elegance. let's ·rudr one of the ··nuestro of mix's" 0\\'11
Ll (.._l ;

confection~. t\Jthough he is S\nHhed in foLu- dilicrcnrlr pat-

temcd garme ms-windowpanc jacket. striped oxfo rd shirt.
checked tic. and foulard pocket h~tndkerchief-nonc of them
calls attention to itself G ran ted, in 1\uch h:1nds, such dcuils of
dress become demen ts of design. Barbera undersrands that in
order to don four different parrcrns without ~1ppeari ng O\·erly
dccorcd. the clothes must be \\'Orn with a slight di~order and
looseness. Dressing at this rarefied altintde pjvots on something
of a paradox; the more imagination and taste one puts in to his
appearance, the mQre sub de rhc rcsuJts should be.
Although not quite at the same level as these other
du·ee pc.ll'agons of men's srrlc, )'OUng l)Tonc Pm\·cr (toJ~ may
have been the hancL'\omest man to kno'' hLm to wear clothes
'veU. He re he i~. mantled in motif- four oCthem. allied b)' their
munlaliry oF scale and degree of contrast. \\lhjk he exudc.s
"noth ing but naturaJJJess," the melange h;]J1gs togethc l' superb ly.
 \·Vhc rcas rlw LlLU-\.C of \\'ind,or would knoc k <lbout i.n combinations of garm ents that
110 orhcr I'I'IOrral (()Uid co ncci\ l? or Fn'd ;\st~lirc's (vpposftc cmlct) innate sense of St) le endowed
everything he wore \\ '1Lh ~1 grace :.111d charm. Few men co-t Jd sport such a cons(·>rtium of apparel
:.1nd not ~ppc:.rr Fooli"h. Shall we gl~ our nn ~1 limb and spcnd:.1rc that a fifth pattern L,c.; prob;1bl)
graci n~
.... ....
his ;:mkk~?
Thic.; expo~ition couldn\ end with1.1trr gtling to t he well one [;;1 st time with a f~wol-itc D-
uf- 'vV snap (opposite bottom). [yen though \\'C alllu1o\\ thar he h,td li ttlc d~e to amuse himsd Fwith
besides his cloth.cs. hc1"t:'·s yet anothct· inimitable cotKoctiun in the DLLkc'.s sccm inglr incx- 77
h.wsriblc su~) pl y of sui gcncris. patrcrncd pcrspic:J.cit). This guy \va.c.; a onl'- mnn t~1shion institute. THE
PJU ROG:\ Tl \ ' SS
Of P J\T T/.!ftN

O PPOSITE T OP:
Tyrone Power
in fou.t' patter11s.
OPPOSITE CENTER :
Fred Mtalre donnfngfour
pattern.~ 6ua.ybe fiFe-
ifhis socks wen· visible).
OPPOSITE BOlTOM:

The Duke ltwd

on planet "pattern."
R IGHT:

Luciano Barbera
lookit~g as !fl1e lvere
wettring 11.othi11g u:n.u.sual.
"I'll throw in aje1111 extra pinstripes."
 garment or ensemble that aA-"ord~ ~uch a compkrc yet variable envelope for the male body.
Although the r~1sh ion community s~c ms congcnjtally disposed tG se:lson<lllr remodel it in the
name of"modernism," all this invention has managed to proceed without radical ly undermin-
ing the suit's eminence among hierarchical male n~stments.
The Peacock Revolution accdcrated the mo,·c mc nt aw<l)' from tai lor_:diaated taste to
dcsigJlcr- inspired fashion~1 biliry as the basis of mens style. The popuhu·iry L)f the Pierre Cardin
hourglass su it in the se,·enties. follo\·vcd by Hugo Boss's ai1·pla11e-shotddered power suits and
8o Giorgio A nnani ·~ lovv-gorge sv.r~1 things in the eighties·. transformed the busiJ1Css suit from the

DRESSJ NO
standard-bcal·er orconfo rmity a.11d membership into a vessd of cuxrenC) and Fashjonable energy.
THTi Jvfr1N By the m_id-cigbtj~s. having establishcd lrsclf as the contemporary clothier's h igh-pmfile
caLLing cclrd, the designer sav\· suit sales begin to eclipse botll natio nal brands as well as the top
retaile rs' own private-label offerings. vVhereas previously men te nded m t>ay aJJegiance to one suit
.shc1pc and dressing sryle. by the end of the go~go eighties. fashion 's ne,vest expone nts began to

exper.iment with clothing silhouettes the way wo men did with makeup. thinking nothing of buy-
jng three new sui ts <1 season. from th n;:e different designers, in three different cuts.
For most of the last century, the corporate wlifonn ,·irtttt..tU)' guart..H1teed the suit an ~vcr­
\Videning audience. HD\YC\'C r. the hltest\vorkplacc freedoms have encouraged more comfonabJe
and collegial garb. \IVith bw>iness 8ttii·e no lo 1Jgcr f~ttcrcd by strict soci:.Ll codes. casual dress novv
shates the 0ffice wid1 the tailored unifo rm.
Despite the suit's cu rrent bad press and steady decline in unit·s::1les. more -f1-fteC1l -hund red-
dol 1m-and-up sLLits were so1d. in the l'a:st £,·e years of the t\iVentieth century fl1<1h duri1ig rhe preYious
thirt): The sophisticated dresser understands thar \\1hile no lo nge r n1andatory co rpo rarc E1re. the
suit is here to stay \tVith the classic dtcss suit now pressed into service more for ceremony than ordi-
n<:U'}' day wear. men want their mi.lorcd attire to be no·less a talisnli:U1 of snccess than their cars. wines.
and \•vatc ht;s, and ·when a man needs real sartorial firepo\i\·er, he looks for tl1e best armaments money
c.u1 tai.lor.
Anothc1· contJ·ibutor to this colhweral trading-up is the m:.:TtLu·ation oF the contemporary
male's t~1stc lc, el. T he style-conscious man has graduated riom d1e h.igb-tashion suit's L-vvo-ye~u· cycle
ofdisp0sabilit}' rm:vard one wi th a longer life exp!,::cte:ulcy and thus, value. Old-,•vorld ve rities such a:-:
hand,vork and :.,u-tisan cra:ftmai1...;hip are making their '"':1)' back into modern fashion parlance.
And bespoke rai.lo1·i ng is by no means dead. .still serri ng the .standcud for today's rap tie.r
of rcadj -1na.dcs. so that d othing lTJerchants assure you that. except on close inspection. their
hanging product is111distiJi1guishable From custom-m<lde examples.
Tnstcad of shedding value. the ta ilored sui t has actually returned with Inte rest. Even
the Cucci- Prada colony portrays jts po.snnode 1·J1 t\vo- pieces as tonics rather than tyra1111ies. tbe
lone garment capable of transporting th e1 1· m·ban knights from day to night. uptovvn to dm.vn -
CO\.vn. Despite the ne\1\ hm1tc corporate regime of <::asuaJ dressing, when success is in the ai.r. no
ensemble can delivc r such a message more poignan dy than the well -raiJored d res.s SLlit.
 THE SILHOUETTE

orty years ago, one could break down rhe dominant su it si lhouettes into three or four
"schools" of custom tailoring. In [ngland. they call it "bespoke." 111 Italy, the wo rd is sartor!tt.. In
France. it's known as taillctw. Each generic suit shape could be identified by its national custom-
tailoring tradition, which fil tered down into a variety of rcady-ro-vvear suit styles, several of
8L
which emerged over the long term robe almo t i1iimune to the vagaries of fashion ..
THE SVTT
The first archetype silhouette w'as the so-ca lled Eng!ish look, wh ich took its lead from
royalty. who in turn were invariably clothed by one or more of Britain's legendary of avile Row
tailors. The Briti h style modeled itself along the lines of them il itary uniform as exemplified by
the long- fitting. hourglass-shaped hack.i ng jacket. Adhering closely to the body. with subtle
emphas is on the chest and a soft shoulder. the siJhouette's marked waist. slightly ~larcd skirt,
and deep side vents, tritnmed s.leeves and tmuser line gave a man a firm, almost regal bearing,
especially if he happened to be arisrocraticall)' ·lender.
1\ second generic suit shape vYas popularized b)' Brooks Brothers in America, which
became !mown as the "1vy League look" in the 1950s. Characterized b) a tlu·ee-button. single-
breasted jacket \Nith nanu:al shoulders, undartcd fronts. Aap pockets. center vent, and pl_ain -fronr
trousers, Brook.-;' "Number One Sack Su it" vvas the first ma_ss- produced suit, its shape undiHer-
entiated and unse:-ry. offering the wearer a soft-spoken. calculated anonymity. The American suit
makers were the first to learn t hat the less there was trt c.l garmenr. the better one felt in Jt.
The third basic tailored expression became the Continental or l.:.uropean look. Conti-
nental style revolved around Italian and, to a lesser extent. French fashion. Virtually the polar
opposite of the shapeless American sack suit the ELu·opean cut relied on severity of line to project
.its style. Ch<lractc rized by high squarish shoulders cl11d a .shortoveralllengrh. the jacket demanded
smalL high armholes to give the chest the length that short jackets denied it. Cut close through the
chest and hips. the coat was usually single-brcastecl two-buttoned with high notched lapels and
slimming llaplcss pockets. and a ventless back. Its trouse1·s had a lower rise vvith figure-hugging
legs. The European's wedgclike torso and lean-fitting trousers turned many a young male into a
walking phaJ Iic symbol.
The last or fourth t)'pe of suit style was a blend of merican and English. Brooks
Brothers and avile Row. Long the st:::tplc affine dressers, From F1·ed Astaire to Gary Grant. this
updated American suit combined the Rov,;s trademark smartness \:vith the understated com-
Fort of the sack suit. Introduced ro the Gotham gent in the middle sixties by :Vladison Avenue
retailer Paul . . tuart. this shaped. two- button suit was later offered ro the general public through
rhe fashions of designer Ralph Lauren.
Feantring higher armholes and a smaller chest ,;vith dart'ed fronts for a more shaped
waist. the updated American suit's longer rolled lapels opened the coat's front to reveal more of
 the man's fLu·n1shings while emphasizing his V-shaped tor o. Whether Americanized by a center
vent or anglicized with side vents. for several decade . this soft-shoulder hyb rid \Vas the keynote
of traditional American fashion. breathing fresh air into the East Coast hry League look.
For years. the terms "EngJjsh" or"American" seemed frozen in time. denoting a particu-
lar style of suit and manner of dress that cut across continental and LLLihtral diYides. To be
de cribed as" Italian" in one's sartorial proclivities was to suggest t hat a man preferred his clothes
fitted and wo rn with a certain aair. Today such references h:lVe lost all practical mean ing. The last
thirty yea rs ofgloba'l fashion have transcended national b01.mdat:ies and cross-pollin~1tcd indige-
DR 'E SSTNG
nous tastes to such a degree that those standard suit si Lhouettes have been completely unhi_nged
THE Mi\.N from their former territorial or rruloring moorings.
Today, Le Styl€ Anglais is more popular abroad than in England, where only an aging
landowner or steadfast client of a avile Rovv tailor might stil l adhere to the old 13ond trcet bro-
mides. One would be equally hard-pressed to find the authentic sack suit for sale in lvlanhartan.
The former European fig, with its tight fit and wedge shoulder. has no~r eYolved into a slope-
shouldered, side-vented. softly scuJptLu·ed three-button affair, more Anglo-American than Conti-
nental. more Metropolitan than iilanese.
Therefore, rather than getting sidetracked by fashion's latest n.:m,~·ay of moYing suit sil -
houettes, arriving at d1at stilt shape relevant to permanent sty! ishness will be made much simplcr
if o ne basic silhouette can be employed as the ·s tarting point. ln fact. such an assumption is t'H)t as
big a leap of faith as one might think. Due to a un·ique confluence of evenrs. for the ·first time
since menswear's golden age. present-day suit makers agree on the suit jacket's most defining yet
variable feature. its shoulder expression. 13y the dawning of the nvenry-first centuq: Italy's lead-
ing fashion designers. England's avile Row tailors. France's top retailers. and America's sartorial
elite basically agree that the sine qua non of tailoring sophistication is a suit that brackets the
wearer'· head with gently sloped, natural-looking, but defined shoulders.
This is not to suggest that men's uits have become so homogeneous in cur o r detailing
as to be indistinguishable from one another. 1 lovveve r, it is to affirm that the real differe nces in
today's top- rung suit sill1ouettes have seldom been less remarkable or more subtle. And if yo u
th rO\"'' into the mi.x the fact tl1atmost better suits' shoulder lines now appear to share more sim-
il:uity than ever before, then, wl1ether a ,r:nan favors a suit shape that is sLightly boxy or fitted,
fuller cut or tapered, the exercise becomes more an expression of personal rasre rather than ar-
terial correctness.
Therefore. assuming that the suit's propo1·tions acco rd with those of the wearer and
this "international silhouette'' can be used as a constant in our discussjon. \Ve are freed to focus
on tho ·e models. details. and fabrics that translate into pe rmanent fashion. at least for the fo re-
seeable future.
 CLASSIC SUIT MODELS
TOP :
GJry Cooper demMzstrates the classic
urroniug ofa three-button suit with
its center button closed.
BOTIOM :
:~an Cocteau shows the larger "V"
openitzg ofthe two-button suit.
THE SINGLE-BREASTED SUIT The single-breasted
t wo- piece is the mainstay of most n1en 's suit wardrobes. Early
single-breasted suits were usually three- button. mostly with
notch lapels, and always vested. FolLovving the Lines of its t'..vo
progenitors, the riding jacket and then later on. the morning
T H'ESUIT
coat, the single- breasted lounge coat made the transition from
country to city ·when its cunred fronts we re cut away below the
waist button. As the curve prevented the bottom button from
fasteni.ng, the top button was worn undone to balance the trio,
giv1ng the low1ge suit a distinctly degage air.
An alternative mode of wearing the three-button coat was
to fasten its top t\vo buttons, ald1ough the lapeJ had to be designed
to roll high enough to pem1itthe top button to be d osed. Compared
"vith the openness of Mr. Cooper's singJe-button
fasten ing, this arrangement doses up the coat,
somc·what formaUzing the presentation. Its two
upper buttons aLo form a vertical line in front,
promoting a mo re up-and-down dynamic,
thought to add length to a man's torso. Here is
an elegant Apparel Arts stripLing tal<ing in all
measure of three-button stylishness.
\M:1.nn weather fOLmd men remov-
ing their vests. and over time, the matchi11g
vest's high ''V" front began dropping lower
and lower. Not surprisingly, the three-
button jacket's high- button stance was like-
vvise lowered, L~Shcring in the two-button suit
model. Ultimately eclipsing the three-button in
popularity. the two-button with its open front not
only exposed the wearer's furnishings to better
advantage, but its darts and defined wa1stlinc gave The three-button
occupants a trin1mer look. \1\fho says that the con- suit with:its top
two buttons closed.
servative nvo-button bu iness suit neces a.rily tifles
self-expression? T his classic dark worsted doesn't
seem tO have inhibited Jean Cocteau from
imposi11g hls stamp of individuali ty on it.
 THE SINGLE- BREASTED PEAK LAPEL SUIT ln the 1920s, the peaked lapel
n1asterm.inded th e metamo rph osis of the male to rso. Throughout th e interwar period. whethe r
for s·ingle- or double-breasted suit jackets, ove rcoats, or blazers, pointed revers or lapel peaks
spearheaded the popularity of th e V-shaped male chest. The acceptance of the single-breasted
dinne r jacket with peaked lapels i1:J the late twe nties ultimately spilled over into daywear.
By rigging a single-breasted jacket wit h a double- breasted tever, this lapel treatment
vi rtJ-tally neutralized th e double-breasted edge in formality This opt1on offered particular relief
in the sun1Jner months. su1ce siJlgle- breasted styles eliminated the warmth oftlie 0 B's ove rhtp-
DRESSING
p.ing fronts. Rarely fo und on ready- to-wear racks. this mildly offbeat suit model rernains pretty
TH!. MAN much confined to the cu."tom-tailored crowd. Bespo ke and vested with walking stick in hand,
tv\iO of the I :Lome Cou ntry's better-uph olstered public servants. Sir Anthony Eden and Sir
Samuel Hoare, show their take on the smartly stocked city wardrobe.

LEFT:

Sir A1tthony Eden a·nd

Sir Samuel Hoare {n single-
breasted peak-lapel suits that
spearheaded the populat'ity
if'the V-sl·mped male chr~st.
OPPOSITE TOP:
'
Adolphe Mtnjotdtt a natty,
classic double-breasted suit.
• •• OPPOSITE B01TON :
The Duke cifKerzt in the
.I\.ent., '' a [onget'-1'me versi on.
-
..........
"v

l!
THE DOUBLE- BREAS TED SU IT Prior to \Vodd \\1ar II. single
~111d dL)ublc ~ brca.sted suits SL)Id in almo:-.t equal numbers. f\.s the dri\·ing
(orcc behind tailored mcn~\\·car in the twcntic.. and thirties. the double
brca"n:-d ,'\U it's most popular rendering "a:- the ..;j~ on t\\ o button from.
with broad lapels marking a high \raist and stl'aight ,·entl es~ ta.ils hugging
o lindrical hips. Long, "·ide trow;crs supponcd th i" col umnli ke shape.
"erving as the base of an athletic si lh m1ettc th~1t Ctllll C to define 111asnJinc
"
elell~1ncc
0
thn.~uc.Thour
0
rhc period.
, \ctnr I\ dolphc tvlcnjou·.s ward robe wa~ ~up posed tn ha,·c been a
\ 1rtual ~tnth o l o~')' of men's fe:1s h ion. Repo rted ly. it includcd at least one
p.lckct rrom C\'Cf) f:llllOUS EuwpeJn tai lor up through 19)6. l !ere's one of
1
11., killer I) B\ natt) in e\ ery nu:1nce. from it" ~u(r. contoured shoulders
and 'llloothl) dr<1pcd chest do" n to his full cur trou-;cr..;' S) mmctrical and
centered crease
\\'hen , \mcric:t':-; elite adopted London·~ famouc; dr;1pc cut JS rheir
O\\ n. Ill'\\ ck1Ltble-brc~ted ver~i om emerged. One model in particLJar spi r-
il.cd lt'icl r tO the top of the ch8 1T~. the "iX- Or fom button from \Yith bpcJs
\.·-..1gncd
... to rol l down below the \-\·rust ;]nd lc1~ten on the bottom button.
k.n0\\'11 a~ t he "Kent." it \;1,1;11\ named ~lfrcr rhc Prince or \A/aJcq's )'Ollllgcr
brother. Pri ncc Geo rge. the Duke of Kcm. who \\':1.S gcncr;1ll)' Cl'edited with
It~ mtmduction in the late twenties. Lkcausc it:-. longe r bpd line extended
through the \\·:1isrlinc. less c mphasi" \Vas pbccd on the \Yru:-\t. rhus giving the
\\e<lrcr an illusion of heigh t. Not onl~ did the Kent seduce the superbl) pro~
pon i~.med. its sty! ish swagger curried p;lrricular ~~1\ OJ'\\ ith the short:md stout.
. \s to its stvle rankin!:!. the doublc- brc;1Sted suit is to the -;ing:Je-
1 L' L'

bn.~a-.red \\hat rhe pleated pant is to rhc plain front. incrcmentallr more
't\ li-..h. The DB's pt1inted. diagonal lc.1pd:-. ~piiY up :111) wor:-ted \\ ool \\ ith
.1 .,J,ghtl) dres-;icr panache. Because rhc j;Kket's m·crbpping fronts look
tidier\\ hen squared up. one oCtheir front butto11.s shmdd be fastened to
(.'\:plolt the model'-; in he rcm ~wank. Like the pinned dress shirt coll ar or
;;uspcndcrcd rrousc 1·. the DB suit rL·quires a bit mo re apJomb to effect a
n:.ntrr:.1l stylishness.
l\'k n arc crc.attu·es of k1bir. \ Vhen ~en 1cemen returned fro m
\\1 )rid \ Var II . 1hey opted for the single-breasted ~ u it. h:.wing become accus-
rnmed to its comfort ~md case of wea r during their milirar) sen icc. As a
rc-,ult rlk' fifties" irnessed the populnr decline or the DB. \ Vith the c:-.ccp-
unn or a Fe\\ random periods of limited I'Cil~lisc;ancc. the double-breasted's
princip:.1l proponents h:J\·e been the custom milnr.s and their st) le-con. cious clientele. Although its
~lppeaJ comes ~Uld goes. as long as men 1·egard Lhl' dress suit as a srmbol or male elegance and
;lllrhorit). thL· dou ble- bre~lsted suit'' ill a.l\\ays justi~ irs inclusion in the top-echelon \\·ardrobe.
 SUIT JACJ(ET DETAILING

SUIT jACKET POCKETS [~rl }' suit pockets were

jcm:d. or Aapless. ln 1921 the Prince of \Vales started yet
another trend b)' rc\'C.:~rting to n~lps for his ~mit coat's lower
pockets. Although he \\a.s not the first to wear them. his
<ldoprion s~mctioncd their vogue for his legion~ of r=ollowcrs.
Rl.'gardlcss of their style or size. the jacket's side pockets (or
the top edge or the f1ap) gener~llly line up with the bottom
button on the coat's Front.
Fh1pped pockets add a laye r of fab ric to the jacket,
therefore making it les" sleek and dreSS}: This is why top-
pedigreed tuxedo jackets feature jetted rmhcr than Ha pped
ABOVE:

Side pockets line up with the bottom bttttoH on the pockets. !3ener- quality fbp pockets arc ..double-besomed." a
coat'sji-ont. Notice the pocl~et!s D-tachflnlshing. railoring term for a narrovv wei ted edge sewn above and
B01TOM :
bdo\\ the pocket's slit opening. ~ot only is this the most
Patch pockets are considered the nwst CL1Stuz! expensive type oF pocket Aap constructio n, but also shouJd
ofthe three classic suit pockets. the \Ycarer decide m tuck his tlaps inside the pockets. these
two vvel ts givc the pocket a more 1-i 1rished appt-arance.
,\lternativdy. lhp pocket:- arc dressier than the :{ewn-on patched variety As such. the open
orflappcd style of p~ltch pocket can usua11) be round astride the
sportier t\\o- piece or light-colored solid suit. Lince patch
pockets add anOLher layer to the j;.Kkefs Slllfacc. they an: con-
sidered the most casual of the three classic sui l pockets. \ Vere a
navy or dark pitlStriped dress .sujr adorned with pard1 pockets.
it would be fro" ned upon as a sartorial O") moron. Here's a trio
sported by the \Vhite House's only president to do ti_me in the
mens\\·ear busincs'i. haberdasher I larry li·um;,1Jl.
The extra change pocket situated abnYc the lo,•vcr
hip pocket. whether rl1pped Or jetted. has ~liW(.l)'S been J

derail signi~ing <1 sui r·s custom tailored genesis. tvlovie srars
such as rrcd ;\staire had many of their Lm - c~unera suits
made with them. thus introducing the ticket pocket Lo the
male viewing public. As a rule of thumb. the !lapped cash
pocket diminishes a suit's dressiness. while the besom style
heightens i t. Years ago. if <l customer "<lnted a cash pocket
added to a read) made suit. most better mcn·s stores ,,·ere
equipped to accommod:1te him.
 I B I
FALL

OXFORD GRAY SHARKSKIN

NAVY WoRs aED c ....~ STR!P£ MEDIUM-WEIGHT BLACK-AND-WHITE

GLENUROUHART PLAID WITH BLUE 0VERCHECK
Unless indicated, all suitings are coustructcd withji11e merino wool }'arm at1d two-plyflllings.

WINTER

MARI NE BLUE f:?IRD ' s EYE NAVY WoRSTED FLANNEL

WITH WINDOWPANE DECORATION CHALK STRIPE

CAMBRIDGE GRAY
WORSTED FU>.NNEL

CHARCOAL BROWN DoUBLE-BEAD STRIPE TAUPE GLENURQUHART PLAID

 SPRING

MARINE BLUE MICRO-NAILHEAD

LIGHT-GRAY TROPICAL WORSTED
WrTH PEA R L CHAL K S T R IP E

~~ rr ~ :.;.,
~ ;nl.!_ll t II ~II!. .1

1J~%:J~Il~'"D
,ill ~ftl
II U I
f!•• ,. • • •
II • ••
~:..
~
M EDIUIY1 -GRAY W O RSTED
IN PLAIN WEAVE

8; .t.CK- AN D- W H IT E PLAID IN TROPICAL WE IGHT

WITH REO 0VEACHECK U GH'lWEIGHT NAVY WORSTED WINDOWPANE
 GRAY Pick-AND-PICK FAWN G L EN PLAID WITH TONAL 0VERCHECK

COLONIAL TAN PLAIN WEAVE

BLACK-AND-WHITE TRO P ICAL C REAM DUPIONI SILK

SHEPHARD ' S CHECK
 8;
THE S tJlT

RIGHT:

Casl1 pocket.
BELOW:
-\ugled hacHng pocket.

l
\

The angled Aap o r '' h:Kking'' pockcL so called bcc lllse or irs anccs~
o·a.l connectio n to the [ngli~ h ridin g o r "hacking·· jacket. i.s a nother ri md ess
suit- poc ket option. Rarel y fo u11d o n non - l) ritish ready- mades. irs prese nce
tend~ to project :1 slightly t\nglicizL'cl if not bespoke, slant. r\ [wo ,·irc
det2i ling of the house or llun tsman. the l·amed \aYile Row tailor known r~) l'
their riding jacket inspi1-cd cur. rhc tlap·, diagonaJ chisels breadth awar
from the hip \\'hile adding <111 illu~ion t)f height to the wearer. \.Vith its
spo rty roots. the lanring. h<.Kking- "r:·le pocket \Yorks bette r \\'ith . inglc-
breastcd clothes. although its angles harmoniL.e handsome!) " ·ith those of
the peaked-bpel. single- breasted suit modd Occasionally accom panied b)
a like-pitched cash pocket. this arrangt·mcm ~ better left to rusticate the
spo rt) countrr suit.
 JA CKE T VENTS Vents hme a military
heri tage. \Vhen men traveled on ho r eback.
their coats were designed For comfo rt in rhe
saddle. A single slit in the coat's back permi t-
red its tails to fall naturally on either side ofrhe
horse. J very practical reason v' hr even todar
the long single back ,·ent: still ado rns most
88 modern riding jackets. As the male suit jacket
DR.ESS I NG must be long e no ugh to cover the buttocks.
THF. M tiN
rear ve nts m::tke the n ouser pockets more
accessible. There are three choices in jacket
venting: Ycncless. single center vent, and the
double-vented side vent.

Th.e Ventless Back In the late seventies, the ve nt-

less :;uit was a mrity Over the next ten years.
the men's designer business catapuJted the
plain- back suit into mainstream Fa 'hion. estab-
lishing it as the most popular rype of jacket. a
status it retains wdar Although its origins are
Erequenrly traced to the tight~ fitting Italian
suit of the sixties. nonvcntcd suits are as ABOVE :
The long single back vent adorns most
time-honored as the British side ven t.
modern ridingjackets.
[kt\\'een the wars. '~·hen English tailors
LEFT:
ruled men's seams. the majori t:y of
The ventless back bunches up ifforced to accommodate
bespoke lounge suits and. in par- a hand in search ofa pocket.
ticular. dinner jackets. ·were tai-
lored without vents.
The nonvcn tcd jacket hugs the hip. giving it a clean. trim contour and a
dressier mien. \~hilc off~ ri ng implkity of line and form. it fu nctions poorly ln
order for the weare r to reach into a trouser pocket or to sit down. the ve ncle~'S back
must bunch up. frequently leaving a crease. Advocates choose to ignore such inconven-
iencc. bec-ause of its supposed sexier allur-e.

The Center Vettt T he cente r-ven ted back. an Ame rican predilection. rose to promi-
ne nce in the dars whe n ready- to-wear clothes were first arri\'ing on the ·ceo e. V/ ith
the evolutio n of America's natural-shoulder (ashions in the fifties. the center-vented
jacket became a featured part oF the lv) League lool. Jnitially designed for ho rsebac k.
the single vent lacks any sty Iish Form \\'hatsoe' er when not in the saddle.
lf ::1 m::tn 's hand is in search of a jacket or trouser pocket. at the slightest ntg the sin-
gle \ 'C n t pulls open Iike <l garage door. re\ eal ing \\hat it should be covering. This center slit
 am·acts tUldue attention to rhe man's expo, ed der-
riere, and. if cut high enough. the yent encourage · a
fringe of disordered ·shi rt ro join the spectacle.
As the least expensh e vent to manufacture
;;md. until recentl y. the most common style of rear
venting. the center-vented treatment usually con.fi_rms
the garment's ready-made provenance. The Italian
cognoscenti never succttmbed to its middlebrow favor,
and mo~t Savile Row tailots avoided it like the sanGria! THE SurT
sophomorism it is. O:ffeting a bit more fi.mction than
the non vented arrangeme11t, the single slit's only saving
grace is that it can occasionall y be employed to better
conceal a prominent hjp than either the ready-made
ventless or side-vented jacket back

The Side Vent Side vent.;;

offer the wearer the high-
est unjon of function and
form. notto mention flexi-
biJjty. Should a man try
a double-vented coat and
ABOVE : later decide that he doesn ·r
The single ve·nt pttlls open to expose a Iike the t\~'0 vents, rhc back
ma.n's de-rriere, on.ce a hand is placed
i11 a trouser or jacket poc~et.
can be easily converted
mto a vc mless by sewing
RIGHT:
The side 11e11t permits access to trouser pockets
rhcsidc vents closed. As for
whfle co11eri11g the buttocks. function. when the wearer
is sitting down. the ·ide slit
allows its bad< flap to move
a\Ya)~ thereby minimizing creasing. And when one accesses a trouser
pocket, the double vent's back Aap permits smooth entry while conceal-
ulg the buttocks. \tVhether single- or double-breasted. the side-vented
coat can be worn buttoned and still provide ready en tr<mce to the jacket
or trouse r pockets without disturbing the line of the jacket's back.
ln spite of its ove rwhelming upside, the doubJe-vcntcd sce-
nario is the least popular of th~ three back treatments. l_;nfortu-
nately. because side-ve nted coats demand better design and t:o1iloring
to fit well, the public's negative opin ion has been fed by the all -too-
common e.'<ample of side- vented coats whose rear bottoms either
kicked out o r stood avvny from the wea rer's seat. Alo ng vvith the pub-
 Uc'.-, lack of intl're~t. ~ide-vented clothes have neve r bee n enthusi-
astically l'mbraccd b},. rhe manufactLuing or rct~ i l sector. T he fact
i~ that double ,-enr~ arc the most expcnsiYc rype of jacket back to
manufacture and also the most li_keh- to in\'oh-e additional alter-
'
ation cost~ for Lhc seller.
Ilo\\'cvcr. "hen its side slits fit properl r Jring flat and per-
pendicular to the ground. the do uble--vented jacket offers a poste-
rior guard of practicality and propriety \i\/hile t his rear design
d ispenses its duties with ~ im ple chm. its benefits are not lim ited to a
man's hindq uarters. Side ve nts le8d t he observer 's eye up either side
of the coat's back, sublim in,, [ly imbuing t he wec-ll'er with an illusion
or greater height. \Nhen the man is in stride, the SLtb tlc concert of
motion between the re;J. r Yents above and the trousers· thighs below
lend Auidity and grace to the male siU1ouette (an attribute th<lt f-red
Astaire exploited to the hilt for his on-camera dance routines) .
The side vent's he ight constitutes another of tho~e

minute details that rdlect a man's personal taste. In general. its

The side vent minimizes creasi1'tg whe'/'1. a
man chooses tosit·down.
length shOldd not e'tend above the top of the jacket's hip pocket
tlap o r below its bottom edge. If the pocket is jetted. the vent· ·
length general!) tak.es its cue from the pocket's height. although it
can finish lower. Side vents cur above the height of a pocket Aap
tend to mm e about. calling undue attentio n to the mselves b)'
svvinging open ~111d ~ h ut li ke an unlatched gate.

D RESS I NG THE jACKET SLEEVE Buttons on jacket sleeves have passed through
,-~, ,·ious ,·ogues. Cenrru·ies ago. the}' \vere employed on jacket cuffs so the vvearer could unfasten
hi slcc\'C to permit his ruffled cuffs to be pu~hed th rough without wrinkling them. These cus-
rums :111tedare Frederick the Gre:..1t's order ro hcl \·e burtons put on the sleeves or his soldier .
uniforms to encourage rhem to u e their shirt cuFfs instead of jacket sleeves as handkerchiefs.
Jacket-button logic has h isto rical ly operated as if it we re a Glbalistic language No l)nC
knows for sure why fou r buttons on a suit jacket's c;lccve conver superior sartorial breeding. but
th;1t's hovv LoJldo n·s master tai lo r~ h:J\'e rrimmed suit sleeves since tirnc immemo rial. And
bec::tuse t hey have mentoFcd ever)' civil ized country in the fas hioning of fine mcn·s tailoJ·.ing.
[ ngl<llld·s s~wil e Row remains the "cul tut~a l arm·· of the fas hion papacy in such lllatters.
Re2:ardle~s
L'
of rhejr number or functiona lin·. suit
I
~deeve butto ns shmdd be set close
together. the ir edges "kis, ing." vvit h the bottom button finishing no more than % inch above the
~dcc,e\ bottom. (Note Captain Eden's cuf(burtons. in rhe il lustration, opposite.)
 THE SUIT WAISTCOAT

__.___U tailored men's \est::. descend rrom the origi nal postbO)
waistcoat of nineteenth -centurr E11gland. \!\lorn br the postboy, or
postilion. who rode as a guide on one of the pairs of horses attached to
~1 coach, the garmen t was inte nded mai n I)' to pro,·ide ·w armth. so it
was usuall r made of a woolen fab ric. front and back. and cut high
under the armholes.
The Wclisrcoat is teclu1ically the most challengi ng garment to
construct sarisfacroril ). s a high point of the rai lor's craft. it is
req u.ired to lie Hm as a p~uKakc on a surf:1ce as contoured as n potato
as well a~ maintain a "touch fit" that is 110\\ here tight. The waistcoat
has sun ·ived because it added gravitas ro the single-breasted s uit, held
a tic in place. kept the ·hi.rt neat and tidr and lent an effjcient appear-
:l!lcc to vvo rkin g in shirtsleeves. It was not on ly W(;l.rm and decorative
but utilitarian. since the ·wearer ca rried a hc~wy gold watch in one
waistcoat pocl;:ct and his watch fob in <~nother.
with a gold cha.i n extending across its fmnt to
con n~cr the t\\'O.
Prior to the Second World vVar, most single- breasted as well
as 11lJ_I1) double- breasted sui ts were \YOrtl with a Ycsr. However. historical
circumstance~ co nspi red against tbe waistcoat. Cc ntr~1l heaci ng a nd the
;urival of \\'arm ~ \\ cather fashjons in the late rwemie.s c ncour~1ged the
shedding oF superlluous clothing. The double- breasted suit was the
first to dispense vvith its customary "ai.srcoat. a nd the n '"'a rtimc
fabric rationing all but de~t the :'Ui t \ CSt a dcathblo\\'. In the
1960s. three- piece suits began a slmv rccO\ e ry, but- the inclusion
ol the \'est i ncreascd rhe cnsembl~ ·s rcrail price. diminishing its
commercial \'iabiJ it). l()day the vested suit is a n~ mcmbra n cc or
things past and accessible on I) ro those able to afford o ne cus-
tom made.
The addition of rhe right "odd" w::1istcoat CJ_J1 tra nsfOrm
en·n the most predictable m·o-piece, as sho\\'n here by Captain
Eden's white line n .single- breasted waistcuar with small notc h col-
lar. Following suit. the single-bre~l'ted. peaked- lapel model (c1bo11e
righO provides an ideal setting For more? meticulous \\·aist deco r as
\\ Orn by one of rhc dream machine·, mu-;t dcbon:1i r leading men.

Randolph Scott.
 THE SUIT TROUSER

1e most fortuitous development in recent trouser f~shion occurred in the eighties,

vvhen pleats and suspenders returned dress trousers to the t1attering sancrua1y of the man:'s nat-
ural ' 'vaist. vVhether plain-front or pleated, forwe1rd - or reverse-pleated. narrow- or ful.l -legged.
should a suit trousers' rise be .so low the:1 t their \•vaistband is obliged to rest betvveen the wearer's
natural \iVaist and hip. the ideal balance between suit jacket and trousers will be doo1ned.
Although plain-fran t trousers have .staged a comeback. today's suit n-o users are pretty
much a pleated affair, their shape dictated by the natural li nes of the bod)~ ful:l across the hip
and thigh. tapering down to natrm~'er bottom. Pleated pants look dressier, and their pleated
fronts provide greater comfurt d1an plain--·front trousers. H ·ips widen when the \Vearer is
seated, and pleats faci l itat~ this shift more easily and with less wear to the trouser. Objects
placed in a front pants pocket are beuer concealed within the pleated trousers' liotlt.
The dassicall]' designed pleated dress trol,lser has two ple;1ts on either sicle of its tly-a
deep one neai· the By and a shallower one placed toward the pod<et. This design fostered a
working rehtionship bet\veen the two pleats, as the smaller one helps the larger one to remain
dosed. Having more than two ple;,its on a trousers· fron t intetferes.with this symbiotic function
and is simply a gimmick of fashion.

COLORS AND FABRICS

s rece.ntly as ten years ago, 1nen still spent the majotit)r of their clntbit1g budget o n
fall-weight suits. Nmva,days, courtesy of high prices and fears of global \i\rarming, 1t is them id-
vveight. eight-month two-piece that monopolizes most of their funds. Perhaps the single largest
beneficiary of recent textile and manufacturing advances is the three-season suit, the wm-k-
horse of the male suit wardrobe.
\Nhether Lmtouched by hun1an hands or completely hand-tailored, today's $750 -and-
up suits ·are confections of m1rivaled lightness. suppleness, and performance. Never before has
an1a;n ~s suit provided him with such comfort along with a sense.o·Fwell-- be,ing. Advanced textile
technology has enabled the top Italian and British mills to fabricate worsted wools that look
and hang like cloths. almost tv~rice their .weight. Yesterday's rzoarse wool yarns made tailored
clothes feel heavy and boardy; conversely today's high- count ·wo rsted yarns make dress suit
jackets as Lght as cardigan s-vveaters. 'vVhile vintage suits in oJ'd films appear Lmpeccably suave,
\vereyou to s1ip one on today, itwuuld probablyfeel more like an -overcoat than a suit.
 The orthodox Yiew held that suits bould be in neat patterns and quiet tones. rmging
from midnight to shte blue. from dark charcoal to light gray. Blue and gray5 ''ere considered
the business basics be~ause they facllitated the transition From work to after-work activ ity. In
the fall. a rich-hued brown suit in cheviot or tweed could be added to the rotation.
\iVhile this limited color palette continues to direcr the selection of most men's busi-
ness suits. d1ere arc more options than e\er before. Let's focus on rho e classic suitings that
should form the backbone of the well -dressed m:m's tailored wardrobe.

THE CHA R COAL SUIT \Nhen it comes to starter

suits, the dark gray two- piece gets the professional's. nod.
\"lillie 11<:1\')' is more formal. charcoal complements more men's
com plexions. Tn the case of the young man. navy's starkness
frequently accentuates a pubescent face.
The d<1rk gray dress suir e mpowers the knovving
weare r with LUlrivalcd flexibility It can be accessorized with a
vrbite dress shirt and dark tic for uptown. black mrrleneck or
T-shirt for downtown. Such fasJ1 ion -Auidity makes the char-
coal two - piece the blazer of male suits. As the \•.rell ~ heclcd
1vWaJ1esc's most vvorsh ipc.::d worsted. the percnni.a l.l y srylisl1
charcoal affords the maturing n1astcr of the uni\'erse a neutral
Ralph Laurens birds-eye gray dress suit:
canvas on ·w hich to rough o ur the morning's vestia ry possibili-
ties, readi ly accommodati11g a larger ,·ariery of colo red or pat-
tcnu~d fur nishi ngs than any other single suit shade.

THE NAVY SU IT At the tLu·n of the ccntul} if a man owed one suit. it was usual -
lythe o ld .. trust) blue se rge·." Its navy jacket topped w hite tlann els. m aking the first nation-
ally accepted \Veckend leisure ensemble. Coming into it~ own as dartime wear for the man
who needed a bridge betwee n the in formal and formal. the navy two-p ieee ,.vas the first
lmmge suit to be accorded the stants of a modern bu ·iness Lmiform. Recommended fm
tovvn wear w ith a bowler hat. yet sp ruce enough to wear when taki ng a ladr to an even ing
co ncert. rhe dark blue dress suit could transport irs owner from day to night, weekday to
weekend. even showing up at semiformal occasions when black tie was not required.
The quintessential power suit color. navy was the colo r called upo n for t he
t-Aichael Douglas character Go rdon Gekko to deli' er hjs infamous ''greed is good" speech
in the movie vVall Street, not to m entio n all se riOLls-minded American preside nt ial candi-
dates. who seldom appear on national rdevision wrapped in anything lcs~ patriotic than
the colo r t.Ulthem of navy suit. whi te shirt. and red tie. lore cnrichi ng than stark black,
more cercmonbJ than charcoal \Yhether in tw ill or plain wean~. n ounces or 8, a navy
suit shows off rhe average man to best adv~Ultagc.
 THE STRIPED SUIT Of all men's swnngs. none has ever
mntched the glamour and populariry o Frhe sniped sLut. At o ne ti me
or another in rhc thirties. rhe striped suit probably graced every pair
of male shoulders. from rhe humble to the most famous. from the
uncmpiO)'Cd w the d1airman of the board.
Although its ~tripes had ro be positioned perfectly for maxi-
mum effect, rhis pattem's innate appeal derived fro m irs vertical line.
Elongating any physique. the striped ·worsted qLLickly establishcd itself
as the patriarch of aU patterned drc:-.s suits.
The ,·ariery ~md sco.ie of classy
suiting stripes are endless. They can be i 11
single. double. or triple tracks. against
plain or fLilC)' backgrounds. Lines can be
faint or bold. from subtle shadows to hair-
lines ro pins. up to pencils or chalks. in
spacings ranging from narrow n..) \vide.
vVhen the Prince of \Vales launched the
dayri me vogue for ~ hadowy d1al k stripes.
he devared the sni pe suit to new level of
cosmopol i t~1n consciousness.
The striped jacket and matching
trow:cr formed their own partl1e t·shjp
around the turn of the cenuuy ·when the
lounge suit started to replace the black
jacket and odd sniped tro user For busi-
ness dress. The montage of striped S\\ ells
here illustmtes the proposirion that
when executed knowledgeably. the two-
color taiJored el1semblc can add up to
more than just a simple two-color look.
ABOVE:

Ronald Colema11 in early lounge

coatformality.
RIGHT TOP :
james Jvfason in his stripes.
R IGHT BOTTOM:
The ever~stylish Ralph Laure11 in
striped repose.
TH E PLAID SUIT \ iVhile the Victorian
era entertained tart;ms and the tum of the cen-
tury ho ted checks, it v\'asn't w1til the L920S d1at
plaid clothing revolutionized the rules of urban
style. following the English trend in which "coun-
tty'' began to impinge upon "town" i11 matters of
male dress. ,\Jthough some checks 1ike the hound-
stooth enjoyed a distinguish~d career. none would
become as endw·inglr scylish as the glen plaid.
For the sartorial romantic. the glen plaid
suit conjured up images of strolling in the fresh
and radiant Light of a spring morning. It~ charm
stemmed from the overall Iighmcss ach icved
throllgh a refined play of ve rtical and horizo ntal
lines that intersected at rcgLtb.r intervals OYer a
houndsrooth check. "'omerimcs thin th.reads of
bright color (red. blue. rust. pin1) were woven
through the checks.
AJthougb the glen plaid could rlattQr
almost any physique. tor tailors, plaids posed
m.;~mcrous challenges ~tnd additionc.1 l cosrs. Thei_r
hoJ·izontal and vertical lines had to march up
exactly. requiring slightly more fabric than the
solid or sn·ipcd two- piece. However. the plaid's
higher cost and complexity o( production
invewtcd it vvith just the right allure to secu re its
The man who raised the plaid suit: The Prittce cif\1"\Tales
position inn1Hsculine t3shion mythology. 1 h'
~11 tS OW1t
"pnnce vva les. ,,
· 0, .r11r.

THE WINDOWPAN E The \VindovvpJ nL'

worsted has ahntys featu red low among the
rank and f ile. while its standing wirh the well-starched set has ne\c r been highe r. Rarely found
hanging ~lround aYerage retail climes. the windo\\'pane suit.'' hen it did make one of its r;ue
appe;:Hances on a selling rlooL·, tended to overstay its '"'elcome. A.-. a result of i.ts commerc ial dis ~
abilities, most men remain unfamiliar " ·ith the windowp;1ne's in. ider charisma.
for the initiated. the pattern's individu:.1liry and popular neglect arc two of its main
attractions. the third being its salutm·y effect on the male ngtu-c. Longer in length than width ,
its upright rectangular formation subtl y elongates. unlike the stripe. which \vorks its magic in
more conspintous \<vays. Another plus is its facilit) for harm o niou~l; combining \\'ith a second
or third pattern. The windowpa ne's open~ box setti ng encourage~ l~u·more varied pattern mixes
 thJn the glen plaid's multiline~ll.· ground. However. the willdowpane's dearly deJnarcated out-
line gives manufacrurcr~ e.Yen less margin for error in matchiJlg.
\Nhether in J chtu·coal Hannel enlivened \\'ith n chalk-toned vvindowpane or.a tropical
\VOrsted em bellished with a colored ovcrcheck. this e rudite pattern is. like Cacse1 r's vviFe, ::~bove
susptciun.

THE GRAY fLANNEL Though

._ the shrink-
ing demand for winter-weight wools has dimin-
DruisSH!G
rshcd the appeal ofth rs icon of male refinement, .the
THE MAN cla..-;sic gray llan nel suit remu.i m; a paragon of cool-
'"'cathcr stylishness. Ever since the famous I9')0s

novel The M~m ·in the Gray Flannel Suit immortalized

t his doth as a symbol of <Co rporate recitirude. colle-
giJns, Jd cxecutiYcs, Jnd i\ Iadison Ave nue clothiers
have reg<n-ded it as :J , ., ·ardrobe staple.
Soft rather than :o;tlf( with just a plnch of
texture, rhe best gray BanneJ eschews at1y hint of
that slightl r wo m -
s harpne:-;x or nevvncss. exuding
in , old- money look associated with genteel taste.
Owing to advanced textile technology Englar:td's
;Ind italy's top weavers nnw turn out Lghter- '~'eight
'"orsted ~lan11ds with the authentic "English +1an -
nel" look.
Like the charco~1 l \Vorsted. the medium-
gray flannel is dJc perfect foil for accessories of aU
backgroLmds. \Vhethcr a soft-spoken button- dovvn
o r ~l st:J.rchy spread-collar, dr<;ss sh irrs ~md nccbvca.r
of every description are welcomed by gt·ay Hanners
sumptuous repose. [mbu.ing its -vve;,u·erv\~th a rda.."'ed elegance, the vvell-cut gray flannel grows mo re
ll:ttte rjng with wear (see page +3) .

THE B R o ·wN SUI T Perhaps no other mJlc vestmer1t has been more maligned over the past
fifty ycar5 than the brovm suit. Firs:c. there was the old British saw about never wearing brovvn i.n
town. Churd1tll once impugned it as the nit:u1tle ofa cad. The khaki-dad legioJ1s of the post-\IVodd
War em eschewed brown bccaLJSe it rem·inded them oF th~ir mi li taq' service. while th <Si,r brides felt
thatrhe shade aged them. Finally Charles Rcvson·s highly publicized quip about brmvn making men
l.ook l. ike "'shit" pretty much resigned it to the wardrobe of the nonconformist.
Brown's reprieve from suiting obl ivion came during the tenure of Pre~ident Ro nald
Reagan. whose personal affinity for the disgraced color rerurned the brown dress suit to public
currency: rorn1nately for the modern S·\ll··eJI reared on a srcady diet oF na'i'Y or charcoal, just a& the
twentieth ccnturr wa~ about ro close its
books. fashion resto red rhe brown sq it to its
l~1 r·mcr smte of masculine v~Trace Folio\\ i rw
~

dosel) on the heels of the marrer .;er's par-

tialirr for walnut- toned bee-up~ mer black
'' irh their na' v or charcoal suit. all 'orrs of
I

bm\\'n ~~,.orsteds suddenly starred silL)\\· i ng up

on the b~Kk.s of the better-shod.
ln 1939 Esquire presented :1 "thought-
ful sh!d\' in charcoal bro,Yn." inrroducinev
J

an outfit it judged "c.umosr pettccr fo r main-

taining a due degree of formality for definite
town occasions.'' Back when me n~wear jmu·-
nalismfocused on individual dressing strategies
as opposed to generic fashion. a rna11's com-
plc""ion. vis-::-1-vis his dothjng's colors. used
to recci\ e exrcnsi' e em erage. As a result.
chocdate-. blond -. red- . or sandy- haired men
we re conrinu:rl l}' encouraged to consider
brown as one oFtheir staple wa rd robe themes.
\Vhilc there arc those diehards who
refuse to consider a bro\\'n suit. there is no man
"ho cannot wear one to personal advantage.
T he dark brown suit offers man)' Yit·n te.s. rhe
first being its freedom fmm dependence on the
predictable blue and gray. The second is rhar
the dark brown suit is every bit as dressy as the
naY\': like clurcoal. the richness of brown's
J

darker bue harmonizes wdl with dress .shirrs

of aUshades. from gold to green to tan. \\'ith the
r~cenrmat i ng
of the dark brov.·n worsted and
medium-blue dress .shirt attracting consider-
able :reclaim.\ Vhether in a winter or summer
weight plain o r pin.stripcd. double- or single-
breasted, the high ~class brown suit wi ll alv.'ays The dark broWtl suit is every bit as much a power suit as navy or charcoal.
be a povver plare r in any male wardrobe aspir-
ing to permanent stylishne~s.

ABOVE:
Ray Mifla11d sll'athed i11 silky gabardine.
BELOW:
Sir Anthon)' [den i11 moh.ai1~ wher1
a soupron qfsltwt was viewed as a
touch ofclass rather than crass.
GA B A RDINE For rhe ulti mate in Iight-colorcd sui r fa re, norh ~
i11g bears ~l 1c colonial tan gabarcl·ine. Since its introduction in the
thirries. tbc cbssic g~1 b has consistently ranked right up the re on
rhe Iist or idealized dress suits. Cosrlr tO weaYe. expcnsi\'e ro tailor.
and problematic to press. the rop-qualit) gab~1rdi ne is neither <cl
wintcl' nor summer suit but an in tc rsea.son opt ion for those with
deep-enough pockets ro aFford its ddicatc lu~tll') and limi ted
"earabili t)'
\\' hile noL as SLL111ptuous as irs \\'OOI con(rere. the cotton
gabardi ne rwo-picce oilers a .soothing alte rnative to the l)'pic::l ll )'
dt'}'. firm -feeling u opica l wo rsted. The fine lta li ~l ll cotton gnb::tr-
dine "uit "ill wrinkle. but i~ sarin)' freshness and cool suppleness
offer the humidified cpidcnn is a princclr measure ofco mforr.
SUMMER STAN D A RD S For n~:1rs. whe n the seasons
'
changed from cold ro \\arm. so did the te.xture or lllcn'.s tai lored
ck)tltc:-.. Fabrics became more buoran t. drier to the ro uch. wich
incrc:::tsed pomsity fo r better air circula tio n. Voiles. ai rtex wen,·cs.
and open-mesh dress shirts helped \'l.~nri l ate male torsos. \\'hilc
Palm Beach worsteds. cotton seersuckers. and nubby silks helped
layer bodily zo nes for hot- dimme Cl1mfor t. G;ntzy silk grenadine
and ~pongy lincn neckwear com plc ted t he su d·:Kc- imerest picture.
\\'ith the disappearance of the hand laundry and the com-
mcrcial i/.ation of the drr- clc~ming process. the 111<-ljority of these
highe1·- mc.1inte nance summe r materials we nt the \\':1) of the two-
toned spectator shoe. I lowe\·er. a few of the st~mdbys are sri II avail -
able for those interested in unearthing them. Jlthough they <lrC t:1.sr
becoming extinct due to the public's lack of exposure to then1. 'v\' har
has rendered rhem i ncrcasi ngly lc::;s com mercial m·e r the years arc
their surface properties. such as sheen or texture. ' vhich todar arc
either misundersrood o r neglected. The following arc classic suit-
ing-." hose particular fabric~ were bred to prm·ide the wearer with
comfort ; J nd coolness. <1 nd still do.
Seersucker is , \merica's most icoriic summer suit. "\Nh}
should the \ 'Cl') cheap remain the pro,·ince of the 'err rich?" asked
Esqnfrc magazine in , \ugust 1936. This rLun pled- looking cotton li1bric
first became :1 srmbol of the rich and sociall y secut'C be Fore the ave r-
age man Finall) e:1cccpred it as somcth ing other than a poor man '.s .su it.
,\lrhuugh not an C:\pen.siYe t:1bric. the all-cotton seersucker will go
right o n ticking " ·a) after other luxury gam1enrs ha,·e tossed in the
towel. Tbdar in medium blue. brown. or gray and white oxford stripe. S·inglc- or double-breasted.
v.rorn '"·ith a necktie or polo shirt. the seersucker suit offers a bem- benter styli•du1ess trans('cnding
both lovv and high fashio n. (Sec page ro;;.)
One of the few sLunmcr suits capable of holding irs crisp good looks has always been the
vvool mohair suit. Toda)( vvhcn fine baby mohair is mixed \\'ith superfine merino ,,·ool. a crcnse-
resistant fine blend results. leaving the old moktir suit stilT m d old-fashioned by comparison.
Unfortunately. because of the dulled ILtstcr of mohair's swtacc. its sensibility i5 frequent!) identified
wirh its older emhusiasts. the"' hltc-on-'"'hitc-.shirted. bLJbous \Vindsor-knotrcd bou lev~1rdicr.
Sjncc its debut on the Ri,·iera in the late twenties. the pure silk dup1oni suit has al" ays been TH
the last wo rd in sumJ11er chic. From its well-bred bcginn i11gs. the silk suit ,.vit h its natural glossy
beauty :md superior draping quality wa..~ a status symbol, an aristocratic gam1cnt made only by the
prestigious cu$tom tailors and top m:u1uf:lcrurers.
Todar only one mdl in ltal) weaves thi.. , Lm.ique
fabric in its original quality and narrow width.
T l1e classic shades arc cream. bro·wn, blue, and
elephanrgray Combin ing the bcstofnantraJ fiber
vvorlds. this shantunglike nubby silk mate rial is
drier yet more luxurious to the touch than carton.
resists wrinkling better than .linen. and drape!-~
\Yith more Auidity than fine worsted wool.

Pri11ce Charles. backdropped by the tropic

ptt:radise ofHawaii's Btg Island, immaculately
rigged out itl silken Savile Ro11' dupioni.
 In t he period foll mving \\/o rl d vV;:rr 1. d ischargcd veterans
thronged to depc:t rtm etit sto res and. haberd ashe rs to make up for the
deprivation suffered in the distant trench es of ElLrope. The era offlam-
ing youth was unfolding, ~nd never before w~s the American man more
inclined to try sontethi11g nevv and diffe.1·e nt. The postwar obsessio n
w ith sports and outdoor activities encouraged fashion experimenta-
tion. wirh the main are na being spot·ts dotJJes. The N ew York ekgance
of the pe riod meant looking wel l h1rn ed out but comfortable. Fro m
thjs tin1c fo rward , the virtue of comfort vvould be an evolving constant

THE ODD JAC K.ET

of men's fas hi~.1n. In a few short )'ears. the CQntentporctry s·port coat

B;tllk in the Nineties when eil.l·ly American

would become the hallmru·k expression of mode rn m en's clothing.
gp~l? 6rat battled w.ith bogey arrayed in J acket~ for sporr have a common progenito r i11 the Norfolk
.red coars (\!sed to wurn non-player.s of im-
jacket of tht mid-nineteenth cenrury: Fo rty yea rs later. ir reappe<:l red
pending dnnget) Brook,-; Brorhm began to

make odd jackets>.ready-mnde, Over this with .its original detaiLi11g iJ1tact. The later Norft)lk jacket of 19 r8
pedod of furry to fifty years; we h.rv.e inrro-
111 ight be caUcd the first A me i-ican s port jacl.;:et. although it was bor~
ducel:l ;t[ld· populh.riied .in th~ country more

of tbc mn:ious British mate rials, pcrrhap.s, rm"red fror1l the N01foli< suit of Hcu-ris or Donegal tweed that manu-
than an; btber establish ment. That th<:se.
facnm~rs adve rtised as "a thorough !)' serviceable suir for men who are
Englisb and Scottish rwedds :~nd cheviots
C:Jn suU oe Imported by us in exclusive col- young, e ither in age or spjrit. and vvho want to be distinctly well
ori ariel ~rterns• .. as clearly ·demonstrated dressed. eve n on their outings." \Vhen paired \:vith white Ha11nel
by ow cum;pt st.o~ ... is n. SQu~e ofgmrifi-
dltticin to oum:lvt'S illi)d pur customer!; alike. trouse rs and a natty straw-.skimmer. t hi.s summe-r outfit passed muste r
at eve n the most sn.obbi.sh vatati<:) n resons.
l])iil wll/wriJ• ;, <rlr Ncw.iY~rl Il•r•,:w• Jnl•ll Along with the dark blue serge $Uit jacket ~md whit e flannel
b'"Kl(l:/ "".scu!.J4U thrt/IJ':r.(ndtill~nl? if our
ti<a;l(1/1.1rt:r'f!.rtlflllflli'an"fl(~IP nr( lfey.vltititr~ slack "u rl ifo n ti'. o:f fashionable reso rt wear, the afil Ltent A rn e rica n was
52di~~~ ~tlf -!J<r th~ (J;U'!}r1'from t'tf(Jt I• t•m"
accumulating an im pressive w~1rdrobe of No rfolk sL!its a nd odd
knid<erbockers that he could 1'11LX and l11atch. As the G reat vVar had
not undermin ed British supre macy in the real m ofnTaBcLtline strlish;-
ness. London was nto.r c than cv~r its capitaL Duririg the Angloma nie:1
of t he 1920s. ~varie ty of high l ~:md jacketings r.hrilled co nno isseurs and
neophytes alike. The rough. \1\l~ll'm woolens of cheviot saxony. and donegal brought a breath of
fresh air to t he slec k \VC> rsreds then popula r. Scottish and lrish n veeds. countrified yet civiLized,
represented the apex of ill t@brics ;::t.ssociatcd vvitl1 rhe Brit1sh sportsman. with the we ll- worn - in
tweed looked upon as the epjton'le of aristocrat ic ap lo mb.
1\'\'0 silhouettes came to define the earl y spo rt coat: the EngLish drape, with its broade r
shoulders. fuller chest. slightly shaped waist. and close- fitting hip. and the Am:erican Ivy League
ack coat, an unpadded and undartcd. straigh t- hanging jacket w ith p.l..i.able front~. soft roiled
b pe1s. an d a three-button front. A n elegant example of earl y Ame rica·n sport jackets i:s shown
a bove- the Brooks Brothe rs Sh etland sport coat. complete \Vith its charact e ristic t hree-button ,
two- to - butto n front_
ln those days. fo r a Fasllioll t o start off on the correct focn. it had to be see n \vo rn by the
right folk. A merican postwar prosperity created overn ight 1n1llionaircs, resulting in "ne\1\_.,
 money Fol lo\\'ing "old'' down to their r:avolitc warm-we::tthcr \V::tterlilg hnlcs. \IV ith ;1 sbcial ~ca­
son that demanded multiple changes of \\·;udrobe and a concentration of socict) ·s leaders in
attendance. PaJm Beach became the founta.inhead !"o r 1\merica n resort fash ion. Rcprcsenta-
ti,·cs from national pu.blicarions and _ports\\ car manuf=J.cturers flocked to this elite turl to
report on the latest lcisul'c ap parel of the upper brackets.
I loweve r. it wasn't until I923 that fashionab le den izcn, began
'-'
t o witness some of thcjr
regulars donning jackets that could claim to be epamre "odd jackets." Profiled (bC'lony i11 pre-
vaili ng plage L1sl~o ns is one o f its northern habitues. ~cw York soc ialite ~d ilton I !olden .

FASH I ON PROF TLE

"Milton Holden, ·well,know11 socialite, appears

at practically every authe11tic spot inseaso11-
Sottthampton, Belmont, New York, Palm
Beach, Meadorvbrook, etc. Here arefour
Esquire- Apparel Arts photos take11 in
February within aJew days' time showing
how correct clothes ha.ve labeled him awell-
dressed man with fashion leadership."'
 13y the latter part ol=- the t\\ enties. the
-;porting jacker. trimmed of its countri fied
deuiling and worn wirh separate trousers in
contrasting fab rics such as flannel or gab<'lr-
dine. bccarile the ideal expression o F ca.sual
elegance for competitors and spectators alike.
Iro nicall)·~ it " ·as rh is garment. as adopt ed by
the upper crust for the sport of ten ni ·, that
bcgat the designer logo. Dubbed Le Crocodile
br the spa n s press for his tenacity on the
court. hend1 tennis champion Rene Lacoste
had his s\'m.bol embro idered on his blazer
I

jacket se,·eral years prior to its debut on his

legendnry \\'hitc pique sport shirt.
1ftherc was C\'er ;]11)' doubt about the
aptitude of fullCrica·s le1ders of male styl.e to
hold their own at the proverbi81 card table of
intemarional (uduon. he re·~ a gu) who could
do it in spades: Anthon y Drexel Biddle. scion
of the Philadelphia Biddies. Tbe hue Douglas
Fairbanks Jr. once told that in the 1920s
nK

and 1930s. t\\'O men monopolized the rop

rungs on everyo ne's best-dressed li.st: \iVilliGm
ABOVF:
Rhinelander tC\\'art (the fam ilr"s Rhine-
Rene Lacoste sporting thefirst designer logo.
lander l\ Ian ·ion hosts R~1 lph L'1uren·~ tlagship
OPPOSITE:
sto1-c) and our man Biddle. Behold Americc1n
Accompanied by his wife and afriend ~n a suit coat),
best~dresse11 Antho11y Drexel Biddle t'n a. sport coat
style at its mosr pab·ician in one of my all -
was one ofthe era's lege11dary barometers ojmer1'sjasltiorJ. time- Eworite ·6.:t.llhion candids.
Although Biddle's male confrere
relic!-l o n hi.s suit j::~cket ro double as a sport
coat. Biddle brooks no such backsliding. Tony Biddle wJs not on ly a prominent ·ocialitc; he also
was one of those rare baro mete rs of male fashio n who could single- handedl y reaLgn its bound -
aries. Foll owing~ strenuous workout. ~iddle bundle~ himself up with hi~ tovvcl-curn- neckcr-
scarf lobs a seersuc ker -;port co:J.t m·er his tennis swearer. and exits the court in full- cut
loose-cuffed ten nis whites astride bespoke spectators.
\!o longer the ne\\ kid on the block, the sport coat became the cen te rpiece around which
the citr's leisu re wardrobe \~·as assembled . Now Found in most better urbrtn wardrobes. a vvcll-
blended gray and marbe a morning or tra\d jacket in a countrr homespw1 look we re relied upon
for less fo rmnl occasiom. such as a 11 afternoo n's socinl call or a few· rubbers of bridge in the evening.
 ABOVE:
Brooks Bt·others pleated-backjacl~et.
LEFT:
Henr11Fonda i11 action-back tweed
and sport-detailedflannels.
BELOW:
Clatk Gal?lc i11 a shin-ed-bacl~, desig1't.

THE ODD JACICET

___ he term "odd'' for a sport jacket \vas not occasio ned onl y by its lack of a m:1tching trouser:
1he \\'ord also fits because of rhe garment's 1ndi,·idual izcd detailing. In r926. the outstanding sport
coat at Palm Beach wa.-; the .solid tan gabardine sport coaL Ushering in
the E.uKy-back jacket era. here's another of the Brother~ Brooks' many
contributions to permanent Fm;hion. tbeir clns~ ic pleated-back gabar-
J inc -;port j~Kket. wi rh a stitched belt ac~·oss the back waistl inc nnd fcRu
plear-: abme and bcJo,, it.
In the photograph abO\'C, a \ Cl')' routhful Henry Fonda
co mFo rtabl )' furl .; hi:-~ l ~m k) r·ramc tm the st:1gc. courtesy of his jacket's.
"bi S\\ it1g... Jction ~ b~1ck dc~ign . Function::tl bcl lo\\'s pleats run from
the b::~ck's belt up to its rokc. Freeing the arms· mo' emen r ,, hilc fadl-
imring d1e rotatiun of his shoulde r. :\oticc the conso rt ing of his
tweed jacket's edge-stitching"' ith his fbn nel trousers' cor-
respondingly jauntkr open lap-our side scams.
.
The most popular fanq - back jacket of the n me
was rhe shirred- back dc~ign \Yith one piece of material
bL't\veen the yoke and bel r. \ Vlwn Clark GJble '' alked
across the ~crcen \\caring one. this model catapulted to the
front of the pack. 1\r firsr. this back treatment was confined
to gabardine. but as it gre" in accept<lllce, otllc r f~lbric~ such
as ~ h etlan d wool. Ii nen. and t\vced soon saw ::1ction.
Likewise. offbeat pocket t:rc;ltmen ts vvel·e li-cqucnrly
em plored to in jeer ~l bi r of social pluck into rhc odd j:Kket's
rusticity Ba$cd on the way Hollywood filin director Cel)rgc
Fitzpatrick is upholstered. you'd expect him to be a chap of
cc1sual but eccentric bonhomie. Cert;:tinJ) hi· splayed shirt col-
lar and foulard cascading from his one- button jacket's inYcrted
pleated breast pocket would support such a hypothesis ABOVE.
Another pocket permutation plaring to gentle pre- Film director George Fitzpatrick's very
tense is ~/laster Gable's asymmctricallr angled <1nd gusseted "oddly" detailed sportjacl~et.
breast pocket. \Vhile merging form and function . it also BtLOW:

seems to ht.Wc resoh-ed tbc challe nge of how ro accommo Clark Gable with pipe and pockets to go.
date t he bul k of both~ pocket square and pipe.
l r has bee n sajd that tbc ho rse acru~dl) imented
male sports clothes. 1\ s a result of the British sport~ m an·s
p<Ission for all things equestrian. the doth coat was fo 1·ccd to
be cut awav :n the from for freedom of rnm:cment, c\ cntu-
'
ally inrlucncing the t:.1iloriJ1g of suits \\'Ort1 in to\\ n. By d1c
mid - rhi rries. the hacking jacket moved out of the fields and
into the cit} shO\\ ing the influence of riding clothe~ in its
extra length and ll ai 1·. sla 11ting Hap packers. and t\n:h'e- inch
side ,·ents. Straiglll from the bo rse's mouth. here's an e~tdy
Brooks rend it ion oF the classic English liding rig.
T he thirties also vVitnesscd the civi li~111 adoptio n or
mili ta ry appa rel ide ntified 'vvith r hc Com111onwcalth's
colo nies in As i:1 a.nd 1\ fric:J. The firs t of these was the mid -
length sa~8 ri j~Kk.ct. inspi red by the SU111111Cl' uniform o( the
Eng!ish <11'111) during the First \ iVorld \Mar. Fastened b) a row
of buttons. it featured a yoke in From and back. lour gus-
seted pockets. a bclr. and long slccYes with cuff,. Different
design offshoots of this garment ha,·e enjoyed periods of
rc\ i\·al. and \\'ith the ne\Y business'"'casual modc raking hold.
 a simplified version of the classic safari jacket cotJd
,·en' weH be in tbc offing.
I . ~

Although \Norld \Va_r I1 pt,tt a dam.per on

nc\V .sport coats. when the vvar ended. the ·first article
of appa rel to l'eflcct a sense of ceJcbratio11 was the pat-
terned sport jacket. Back i_n mtd=ti and cxtrcmdy
sporn;-minded. the fa5h ion -conscious man had no
intention of letting his nevv sport coat be mistaken for
a suit jacket. and rhc:refore bold-patterned jackets
returned stronger than ever.
In the late Forties. pri.marily on Ivy Le:1gue [am -
pu$e$, the exuberant sn·iped Shetland jacket loomed as
heir apparent t-o the bold plaid. About the same time.
authentic madras pl.-ti.ds vvcre making their \<vay into d1C~
fashion lexicLm o-fth~ college and countr) dub set. \N'ith
Esquire's" Bold Look'' ofl9-.1:8. the American male~eemed
destined to we:1r clothes that would express his new
optitlli.s n1. l1owever. no one ctmld have predicted the
conservatism of the fifties . when the gray flannel suit
practicall) became <l state of mind.
From the seventies onw:1 rd. desLgner-dJivcn
exploits subjected the sport jacket to n10re experiments
and me:lll ipulations than any other piece of tailored
111en's clothing. The recent
i nrc rest in altcrnarivc busi-
ness attire has reuwigo-
rated the r~1ilored sport
jacket, investing it wirh a
neiV t~1shion import<'UKe.

TOP:
Brooks Brothers classic haddngjacket.
ABOVE:
Sifarf.or bush jacket-
the alternative sportjacket.
RIGHT:
The stripe sport coat asfavored
by Princetonian.s.
 THE BLAZER

ust a.~ the Fancy-b:::tck sport jacket" as reach_ing its peak oF populariq . rhc burgeoning appc:::tl
/ of the plain-back blazer loomed on the horizon. The overwhelming acceptance oftl1e blazer
marked the decline of the fancy-back jacket, :1nd by 1938 the plain-back jacket became the lead-
ing odd jacket style.
The first blazers had been parr of English cricket club ~cenery as\\ ell as other sporting
environs si nce rhe 188os. T hese sport jackets were custnmaril)' deco rated with stripes in rhc
club's colors. omc \\'ere .so bright that they became knL)\\·n as ··blazers." :oHd serge or striped
blazers with Aannd trousers and straw boaters became a farnili:H" Edwardian sight. Thq were
subsequen rl r joined br Yersions of rhc English naYy's reefer jacket in double- and single-
breasted models \Vith gilt button· and club badge on the breast pocket.

A few English lads soak up America's swing mt.tsic between races. Both the Cambridge a11d O::iford crewmembers sport
their colors atop Oxford bags 'While the clzapp}' on the right optsfor the updated reefer blazer.
 \ Vith blLte a11d white as the imper~1rives of nautical dress. navy
blazers and ·vvlute nousers rn?.de a dashing sports outfit for the \Vealthy
Ame.t'ican m.an of the 1920s. Being cla.o:;s-conscious, he adopted it a.s
anothe r means of distingu ishing hjmsdf 6·om the masses. Whether tn
a solid color and piped at the edges or in bold regatta stripes. the light-
weight blazer became a summer sensation.
By the thjrties, tl1e bh12er began to be seen in different
soLid colors. The stand,ud shade of dark b:l.ue so long associated
\"-~' ith white trousers was now being ovc rshadow~,;d by brighter and
gayer s.hades such as n.>bin's-egg bhte. deep medium hl ues. or pur-
plish blue&. vVhether i.n nne of the nevv blues or its second- nmni_ng
favorite. dark green. the blazer became the bridge betwe~ ri worka-:
dar and weekend wea r.
The blazer ranks in cL-essiness som.ewhere between a suit
m1d a sport jacket. and its formality tan be influenced by simple
changes in modeling, detaili ng, o.r accessorizing. As the double-
breasted blazer projects a sli.ghtly hcightened.aura ofdress ;up over
the s ingle- breasted modc.l, so do Hap pockets ove r patch, peaked
lapeJs over notched, side or no \·ents over center, aJ:id dark trousers
over light.

THE BLAZER BUTTON Embl8zoned vdth its typieal metal

hardware, th e 11avy blazer remains 8 h1erarcrucal t)rp e of garment
A roundup cifsame ofAtnericas early \iVhile many meH app reciate the gentility in1plied by the traditional
bla.zers as pictured on Palm Beaclls gilt blc1Zet: button. in roday's les$ ceremonial world some men feel
older attd younger denizem.
uncomfortable with Sttc h conspicuous d.isplay. \Vhile tl1e dark brown
horn button is LL"il,mlly the Brst no nmetal alternative co nsidered, its
dLJiish chatacter l.acks the personality .11ecessary to offset the dark jacket.
The mosr rraditional blazer bqtton is ~he brass or gilt variety. Unless your family has its
own coat of arms or you a re entitled to vVetu· a dist i.n guished club buttol1.. the classiest choice is
the plain, flat. English gilt blltton 'vVith 8 shanl<. that must be anchored into the doth. Alterna-
rjye ly, m en w ith gray hair or those planning to wear predon·, j nantly gray- toned trouse1's will often
opt for the ~rforeme ntioncd button in a dulled nickcl or ~ilver shade. In the case ofa brighter bl-ue
tropical \Vool c_w linen blazer, off-vvhite moilicr- of-peaTl buttons arc always an option.
As to the idea] nmnber of buttons fc.1r the blazer'·s Front and sleeves. penor'la.l taste
tends to defer to LTadi tion. To begin with, the number o£ sleeve buttons is related to the. coat
Front's button arrangen1ent. \Vi.tb the mosr popular jacket modd being the l\?iro-button single-
breasted. fol\.r sleeve bi,.tttons a.re the norm , et.lthough two are equally prope~·. Thtec sleeve but-
tons on a two- button coat seem sl.igh rly out of balance. whereas with rhe three-button model,
th ree o r four sleeve bL1ttons harm o nize h::llldsomcly.
 Judging the correct number of buttons for a double-breasted blazer is guided fir ·t br
its St ) ling, second by tradition. and tJl ird by pcrso n<ll taste. The classic doub le-breasted blazer
with flap pockets i. traditional!} trimmed with six fro nt burrons. t\\ o thnt button, t\VO that
don·r. and two upper display or d ress bun:ons, a formation that pretty much demands fou r
sleeve burro ns, as illus tr~tcd by a preening Prince C harles
The well-sdccted n;l\ r blazer ofFers an almosr chClmclconlikc ver ari lity. \tVhcther tn
the country or traveling around the wo rld. 'virh long or short pants. Han nels or jeans. ascots o r
neckties. short slcl'vcs or french cuffs. t he classic navy blazct· remains man ~s most accomJilOdat-
ing tailored companion. Oot
TR O
' iVA

Prince Charles practices his

Napoleonic pose in a.
classic navy blazer.
 THE ODD TROUSER

the earJy t\~enti€'S. the ·odd trouser had ..est;;;1blished itseJ f as an essential part of every
well- dressed ma-r1's wardrobe. :However, in 1925. A mer1can coUege .men vacat ioning in England
vvere confronted by voluminous pantaloons wo rn hy the Oxford and Cambtidge Lmdergradu-

11.2
ates to camoutlage the.ir knickers, vvhich we re not allowed Ln t'be classroom . With pleated

·R ES$ING
v.raist.li.lie, baggy Jmees. and bottoms measuri11g from 22 to 26 inches, the Oxford bag ignited a
l-1 E Nll\ N fad tha t swept the coun try in the space of a year.
Although their popularity we nt into decline
the foUm-ving year. the Oxford bag initiated a vogue
that would last forever-fuller-cut trousers. \~ith
A,;glomania at an all- time high and the Ivy League stu-
dent a major source of fash·ion irmovation for America.
d1ese pajan1a-width bottotns left the sryle.-tonscious
young American in favor of wider-cut slacks. Here's
the soon-:-to-be exemplar of English fashion, Jack
Buchanan. takh1g a pair of bags our for a spin.
As the thirties began. many young men
began orde riJ1:g an exrra pair 0f trousers to nn.atch
their tweed t hJ·ee-p-ieces of jacket, vest, and pigs
foLu·s. or knickerhockers, a style that .f:lourisbed on th~
.golf Links. vVhen the trouser vvas donned with the
vest and jac ket, the ensen1.ble coLtld be u-sed fbr busi-
ness . and then split up for sport or other leisure pur-
suits. This development resulted in Jnany young men
reverting ro odd trousers For casual wear because .they
vvere mo re serviceable th an the sport-o nly kn ickers.
T he ne·\N trouser Fitted dose at d1e vvaist
-vvhil'e hanging freely a nd easily over the hips. 1\.vo gen-
erous pleats \·vere R-zed into its lTigh waistband to give
extra ful11css across t he fro nt, while
the tro user leg wai\ long enough to
E11-gland's answer ·to America's
break shghtly over the in,. ; rep. It vvas
Fred AstaireJashion plate
jack Buchanan i11 Oiford bags. thoLtght that the cuffed bottOm and
crease fore and <-liT h ~d significan tl y
ip:lproved the line of a trouser, abo l1sh-
jJ-:t.g baggy knees and fringed hems.
 Along vvith tweed . ±1annel became a lead-
ing bottoms 6bric during the interwar period. It
was first used in the nineteenth century strictly for
underwear. bur by the L88os. ·Aannel was wot·n for
golf cycl ing. and tennis. ln the twe ntieth century,
f-lannel was recognized as a stylish cloth. and in the
late 19.10s. the vvoolcn mills in the '"'est of England
created ski llful mixtures of black, gray, and wi"U te
that added light and dark highlights to the plain
gray cloth. establishing the gray Han.nel trouser as a
worJd,yide commod ity. Among tl1e yoLlJlg blue
bloods from British societr gray Aannel slacks came
Mens ready,made jlan·nel trouser swatches
to be known as ··graye rs.'' foam Brooh Brothe-rs
Charcoal flannels dealt
the sporting k.nicker. or plu ·
fou 1·s. an early blow. vvh ile col-
ored and striped flannel pants
relegated it to chasing golf balls
over the countryside. By th e latt'
thirties 1~1 hionable Americans
aba ndoned knee- length bot-
roms both on and oFf rhe go IF
coLu·se. and the knickerbockers
went into ful l eclipse.
G ray ult imately loos-
ened white's srranglehold on the
upper-class weekend regiment,
because it looked more appro-
priate in winter than white. As a
result, it -vvas not long before rhe
gray -flannel pant Found its pri n-
cipal role a the companion for
any type of sport coat. 11ere's a
19-J.Os French menswear maga-
zine's depiction of this "trouser
of trouse rs''' vin:ually unumitcd
choice of d~1nce partne1·s. Rang-
ing in tcx ru rc fro 111 rwccd to cor-
duroy. in pattern fro.m solid to
Su.1't'Clunded b)'friends, the grayjlam1el t:rouse1• is th.e
blue bla:er ofcool,weather dress slacks.
 !~ncr. nnd in color frvm gre<;n to fu" n. the medium gray wo rsted o·ouse.r i · d'lc blue blazer of odd
d rc~s slack~.
Today's less tradition-s;:l\'\} male is sometimes confused \\'hen the sen·ices oL1medium
gra) d I'L'~~ trouser arc n.'CL)l11mended for a non-gra) solid or patterned sport coat. AIthough the
blue bb1.cr has long been paired" ith gra} trouser~. someho\\' the inherent stylishness of such a
combination loses irs rclc,·aJ1CC when the non- blazer jackcr ~1nd trow;er ensemble i~ being con-
sidered. No doLLbt. such an me rsight is occasioned br the pragmatic bu r instinctive!)' female
rq apprn~ch of marrr ing the pants colo r to ~111 exact match found in th ~ jacket. Untortunarcl). this
; SSINCi
sensibi lity o(ten leads to rhc less sophi..,;ticarcd colo11 ization of t he sport jacket \Vith :1 navr or
: 7\J,o\ N . r shade. This is one of those rimes where the obvious is nut :llway!'
dark brown dress su ir- rn.1u.'\c
t he more t::t~tcful. , hould yo u be considering a new sport jacket and are havi1igdifficul t)' visual -
izing it with a medium gra) trouser.
move on.
The fir.s't: alternate to the
classic charcoal gray dress trou.scr for
the blazer or odd jacker is ci rhcr a
sli{rhtlr licrhter shi.lde of oriJ\' or a ren-
~ J ~ ~ ; r

resentatin~ from the tan E:un il y- in a

wool cm·c rt. gaba.rdi nc. or em all')
twill. Because tan produces sligh rlr
mot-e contrast t ha n grar under the
average sport coar. it rcgi.stcrs a !' light
dmp in rdati\·e dre siness. Various
shades of cordLLroy or classic olive
drab ch inos fo llmY next on the dress-
do" n meter. " ·ith blue jca ns rcsid i ng
~ome\\·here belo'' ·
One trouser rabric that gan~
both the white and gra) Aannel a run fo r
its money back in the rh i rties was wool
gabardine. The silk): smooth gab~1rdin e
offered a texu.u·al change of pace to the
rough, woolly t1anneL Sti ll regarded as
one the most ILL'\\trious lengths ol
ABOVE :

David Ni11e11 !uxuriatit~g in gabardine trousers. "' o rsred eYer to grace a ak th igh. it's
111

shown he1·e on a ma 11 wi rh rhe leg-

OPPOS ITE TOP:

The ge11trt{ied C01'duro11 sport trouser. cndar)' gift of "gab." the wcU -Iightcd
David Niw:n in rustic dishabille.
OPPOSITE BOTIOM :
\~lith tl1e 1930s uni,·c rsit}
The Duke of'Vi11dsor nursing his pipe attd baby cords.
lll<U1 donning sport jnckets and slacks
almost every day for class. it's litclc-vvonder t hat t he
college c;;1mpus pioneered many of the nevv dress
trouser fasb iOj1S. Ln t he early thirties, Glenurqubart
pb1id .slad<S gained popul~- acceptance among Lm.i-
versity students. When wor:n \Vith solid jackets.
they rnarked an emphatic d1ange in the balance of
pattern between the tradit ion;]J tailored sport
ensemble of solid bottom and patterned top.
l n r933, baving gained acceptance at Y~ll e
and other Eastern ceUege campuses. CO\'Crt cloth
started the trend for stmdier. more rugged types of
slacks fabrjcs. As ano the r tan alte rnative to the
·omnjprese nt gray -A.annel, covert's gray-green hue
WlH·ked well with mo~ t tweed jackets. and especially
\.VeD with t he blue blaze r. [n.itially tailo red From
topcoat fabric that proved too heavy For comfort.
coven cloth"s endm·.ing populari ty \>\;as assured
wben it was fab ricated into lighter-weight trousers.
Al'ready familiar with t he ribbed hardi-
ness of Bedford cord and cavalry tvvi ll i11 the sad-
dle, the paddock set cha.tnped at the bit for anr
oppGrtu.,n ity to sport the cord trousers on tcrr:;1
firma. l n regular \i\'cights and variegated ribs. cot-
ton cords were pe1-fect fo r campLIS or outdoor
activities. H.c re we observe two of t he fai thful
cbnsidering ~v..-hich suds ro sam pie first on a Satu r-
day afternoo n's tailgate g~the ring.
Following on the heels o F rhc 'ivider-\V<U(:;
corduroy's popularity. what better way to step up its
warm-weathe•r comfort level t han to step do·wn it.-;
\Veight? T he DLtke of vVindsor keeps ~core on one
of Arnold Palmer 's gol.fing nemeses. Sout.h Afric:a's
Gary Player. 'vVhile always resple ndent, the Duke
tones dovm not only to avoid any backs"vi.ngdjstrac-
tion but also to acco Fd wi th his light-colo r complex-
ion. Details worthy of note a.t'e h is low-fastened
tweed sport jacket '-.vith short side vent~ (Ycry fred
Astaire): cuffed baby cords: and nionk.-strap shoes.
\\lit h the coLlege ma:n ret-:urning to classes
afte1· mil ita.ry service. the arrinu on campus. of <1
military type of wo rk fabr.ic in rhc fall of T9-1-S came as no s urprise. Chino cotton trousers in olive
drab became d1e new uniform . remaining a11 inrcgr:1l part of the collegiate rnai1's wa rdrobe for
the rest of the Forties and ioro the fifties. By the mid-fifties . gripped by the emerging gray liannel
conservat ism. spo rt slacks .gained 3 back ~trap but lost their p.lcats. cuffs. and swagger. tape t-ing
down tO Li / 2 inches at t he bottom. The plain-f ront model maintained a do minant position
throughout the next several decades. courtesy of a , cries of fas hio ns that pushed the trouser '
waist d own to the hip: d1e fif6es Continenta.llook. with its lew- rise pant: the sixties h ip- huggi_ng
blue jean: and the low-slung suit tro user of french designer Pierre Cardin 's seventies si lhouette.
I ron icaU y, the century's last two decades witnessed the remrn of the t:lllored trouser to
nearly the height .of its pr:e-World \ Var l l stylishness. \ iVith t he drapey swathings of ltalian
designer G io rgio A rmani and the 1980s miru- reviYaJ of the 1930s look fu ller-cur trousers
made a come back. And along ·w ith its softer mien. rhc sometirn es suspend cred. al-ways longer-
rbe trouse r resumed its classical position ing on dJe male's natur;;l l waist.
As the new mille nnium picks up pace. men's ta ilored trou -e:rs are dividing into two
camps: the "updated classic" as represented by the fuller-cut, pleated -front torm: and the
"moderne." as co nfigured by the harder-edged, pJain- front. trim-fitted -shape. The modcrtlists'
slack "de leek'' reflects their preference fo r pared- down. uncluttered sifnplicity. for the fashion
vanguard. this cuFAcss bottom 's lov,· rise and condom like contour otte r a sexy antido te to the
loyalist s' large r-volumed sill1mtctte. For t he fashion savvy. tb_is dernier cri seems vaguely t·c mi-
tuscen r of a former leg-hugging ·ocial equalizer. the blue jean. except that now its chic can be
dispensed in any o ne o-f three shades of black.

CLASSIC ODD TROUSER MODELS

"-v"'t me n's dress slacks <lfe made with belt loops. vVh.i.le trouser \Yaistbands and
belt loop djmensions are not immw1e to fas hion. t hose accommodating belt 'vidths ranging
from 1r/ 4 inches to 11/ 2 inches -vvill always rcm;;un impervious to obsolescence. Alo ng \\'jth the
traditionaJ plain- and pleated- Front trouse r models. seYeral lessc r- knm,yn odd slack models
continue to ct.uTy favor w itl1 the better-slip pe red buck. \Vheth e r n ;UT OW o r FLdl cm, th e follow-
ing v,raistband b·eatmeJ1ts have maintained their fashion authenticity and insider currency since
their jnceprion back in n1enswea r 's pre\var heyday.

THE DAKS SLA C K The Daks waistband \Yas invented in 1932 by Alec impson. the eld-
est so n of Si-meon Sim pson. founde r of the English llouse of ~ impson. As an avid golrer, Alec
shared th e irritation felt by fellow go'l fe rs whe n i_p1peded by one's braces and disord ered shirt i.n
the course of a swing. Trained as an engineer. Alec decided th at there must be a better way to
 WITH THOUGH T S OF SU MMER rnrhincl,
we 0ffer you a few suggestions from
SJmpsens~ vast at'ray of appropriate
clothes. The left-hand figure seems com-
fortable in a double-breasted suit-worn
without waistcoat-at £6.12 .6. The saw-
edge straw hat and the whangee cane add
a touch of seasonable light-heartedness.
ODD
Right, the Daks trousers are in hGpsack
T B.. OU
'(30)-) ; the striped sports shirt (3Q/·) \iVAI
being neatly topped by a foulard scarf.

The Dal~s Slach- the

first self-supporting
beltless trottser

construct a sport trouser and came up with the idea of a "comfort- iJ1- action slack.·· the first sci f-
supporting beltlcss trouse r. In memory oF his t~1thc r. he named his creation Oaks, an acronym
combi11 i11g "Dad" and "slacks."'
f irst, r-ubbe r pads we re sewn in ro the waistband to hole! the shin in place. The n, on
e ither .s ide of t he waist. self-cloth tabs vvith buttonholes -vvere designed
... to connect to a con-
cealed band of elastic running through a tunnel loop around the inside back of the waistb<111d.
This permitted the tab on either side of the waist to pull forward and fasten o n one of the t\\'0

side waistband buttons. bringing additional tension on the waistband for support.
Although sporr- inspired, the ge nui ne Oaks top waist design is expensjve to manufac-
ture a nd the refore typicnll) found only on higher- priced ready- made or custom- milored sui t or
spo1·t trousers. Here·s one of the ea rlie$t ads Fo r Simpson\ bcltlcss classic.

THE SELF- BELT Bet\reen the v,rars. the demand for 1ighrweight sports clothes encour-
aged innovations in beachwcar. The sci F-bclt design remm ed the bother of having ro pack a
separate waist rigging. \Vhcn cotton slacks \\'ith matching tops saunte red into vogue For resort
wea r during the late twe nties. the convenient and easy- to-fasten seiF-bdt p~mts model ga.incd
fu rthe r acceptance, cvcnmally infiltrating gene r:1 l spo rts,-ve~tr and dr·ess trousers. A matchi ng
 sepatatc or attached hdlf self-belt was
USLially·pn.1Yidcd with eiTher a plain ·o r
con'red D-ring, as modeled here by
actOr Errol Flvnn. I

THE HOLLYWOOD WAIST-

BAND T he popLJ.at'ity fo.r h_igher-
v,~a_isted trousers in tl1e Hfties spurred
the re- eFr:Jcrgencc on the \VesT Coast of
a model initially created 1n the thirties.
Apd y tenned the "T-Iollyvvood.'" this
long~..: r- ris(' model featured'a one-piece
front and back. 'Nitl.1 narrow be.lt loop s
po.sitioned below the trousers' top.
Jvlodeled here by "OJ' Blue Eyes." the
Hollywootfs 11omv<~,istband design and
lo,vered bd t loops necessitated nar-
ro~ver bel:ts. -vvhith were bdje~~ed ro hdp it conform more dosely tO d1e we<:rrer's nan_u~al waist-
line. One v:1riatio n on thi~ d1cme \Vas ~or style ;;tV~lt~u·s such as Leslie Hmvard to sport his belt
buckle oFf to the side. pu:rpo.neciJy for com fort butprobably al.so for svvagger.

TOP:
Errol .Flynn.wea1'in.g a:
se!fbelt tweed troi1se1·.
LEFT:
Frank Sinat;ra st.wrounded
by a Holl.ywoo.d-st)lle
waistband.
R IGHT:
Leslie Howa-rd sp01'ting
his se!fbelt stylishly
to the side.
 THE ODD WAISTCOAT

t her th<H1 coming upun an odd ·'postboy" languishij1g about o ne o l Lo ndcm's anri-
qu~ui~lll men's emporiums. the last time anyone -;potted the genuine odd wni.stcoat for :-,ale on
American shores ,,·as back ,,·hen Brooks, Chipp. J. Pres~. <lnd li·iplers still basked in i\ lad ison
r\H~ nue gloq: The odd ,,·aistcoat \\as one of the chromosomal \V,\~ P's trump cards in his lor-
I I C

mer dars of peacockcrr

Ooo]Ac
J\ cursory sun ·ey into this Ame ri.Glll tr;;tdilion begins in 1928. the Gatsby era. with a Tn o USB
I~'·" lSTC
lil1t'1l \\'~istcoat in pastel shades of tan, gra). and blue. ft \.VJS apparent!) in such favor that the
trade paper j\ fens \\ 'ear decreed that "the linen 'odd' vest is an import~1nt item in the ward robe oF
e\·er) man \Yho m~tkes :.111} pretense whatever at foUowing the fashions." By the mid - thirtie~.
sma rr countrr attire spawned a ne\\ w:.1istcoat. the single- bre;:~sted tatte rsall vest its colors cho-
sen to harmonize with the :-Kcompanying ho1·sc) jackets. Younge 1· men who had never worn the
odd waistcoat berLli"C '"'e re ca uti oned to remember that the loude r its hue. the quic:te 1· its
style should be. ''For instance.'' wrote a Mens \\ 'et1r editor. ''the t;;ltre rsall check is almost
im~uiablr ~ccn in the single-breasted model. while the plainer. more consctTative
colors mar be ' porred in the double- breasted model."
B) the 19-!-0S, <l semi-sports outfit ,,·as not only acceptable for city \\'ear
but acco rdin g to Esquire. "it wa~ ~mart to be ~po rt(' The 11ew det:.1 iling oF semi-
spo rts clothes \\'as a n outgrowth oF hun ti ng and ridi 11g togs. Unfort unatel y
despite the separate \'est's nJtiona1 sponsorship. the wJ.i stco~1t per ~e \\'as
waning. During d1e \\arrears. it was dealt an insurmountable blow " ·hen
the \ Var Production Board dL·crced that doublc-breaHed suits could no
longer be manufactured \\'ith 'ests. \Vhilc the checked. plaid, or brightly
roned solid odd ves t 1·emai ned :1 fixture on mall } hJ League campuses up
through the sixties. the Pencock Revolution u-;hc,·ed in the shaped suit,
eflccri\'cly killing it. By the early se,rcntics. the peacock had distmced him-
sci f from the postboy.
[\·en though the current ,,·orkplacc has ~KtiYated the sport j:.1ckct
Cor d ress-dmrn dut). unl ess the (our- in - h~lnd is similarly mobilized. the sepa-
rate vest is not liJ.:ely to be see n storming the fro nt lines of men's fashion anytime
soon. This is a shame. because the snapp}' odd weskit could al\\ a)'S be depe1ldcd
upon to inject a bit of\\'himsr inro rhe ward robe.

The tattersall waistcoat em semble.

"Since you asked, sir, I tecommen.d aplain white sl1irt
witl1 that su.it and a no-nonsense tie."
 Throughout most oF the nineteenth century. all ·gcntlenicm's undcrclothirig was made
of line n. The word "linen'' bccatne a generic ren11 for a tnan·s undenvear. The dress shirt func-
tioned exactJy like tbe modern T-shirr br keepilig sweat mvay from the outer garments while
pro recti ng the body From the coarse outerwear m<1terials. HoweveL propriety demanded that
only its coll;,1r and cuff be vi~ ibl c. hence the term ·'showing lin en" mea11t that vvhire lit~ e n at the
neck and hand was a sign oF gentility. As recentlr as the late 1940s. it was as shocking for a man
to expose his dress shirt in polite society a!) it would have been for a vvom8n to walk into a
restmLrant wearing·no thin~ over her brassiere.
<... L'

The modern dress shin's shape developed dnri11g Vkto6an tim.es as men do n ned tight
vvaistcoats. fo'rerunners· of the modern vest, thqs rendering the :full- cut shi.rt obsolete. Once the
HltTent dress shi rt's body shape \\:as establ.ished. the col lar became its most distingtt.ishing and
Elsl_;.ion-setisitive feature. In Uho. a hcmscv\'ite in Troy Nnv York. changed the face of men'~
l~1shion. J Janna Montagut: \:Vas the wiFe of a h.1stidious blacksmith who insisted on a clean shjrt
every eveni ng to arrenq his ci\·ic engagements. Vexed by the daily drudgery of laundering. she
Iiberated both the s hirt and herself by cutting oFf the calLus. binding the edges and ncckb~uids,
and attaching .strings to hold them in place.
At first, Mr. Montague .,IVas disturbed b) his detflchable coUar. but the idea caught on
among his fr iends. and soon Th)y housewives \Ne re snipping away. The o\\'ner oF a general store
recognized the commercial possibilities of this simpler shirt and started manui~Kn11'ing some in
his back rt)O nl. Almost ove rnight. Troy abounded vvith shops clamoring to tt.u·n out the detachable
collar. [n fact. American sh iiT-makinggiants such as Clueu Peabody and Phillips Van Heusen fi rst
began as separate-colla t' manufucntrers in the Tro) area. Septtrate collars rose to the pinnacle of
t'"a."hion in the years preceding the First \iVorld VV;,u·. when the commercial artist J. C. Leyendecker
created the m<lle eqLtivalen t oF the fmnous Gibson girl. the legendary Arro"v Collar Tv!an.
As sportswear came imo be ing during rhe seco nd halFofthe n in ~teenth century. so did
the 'Separate double, or turricd-down. collar. However, wru- forever changed its destjny \1\fith
five \ll.ill io n men serving tkt€'i r ~Country i t~ government- issue soft attacbed~.collat shirts. the vvar
dce:1lt a blow to the ~epa rate stiff collru· from which ic nevet 1·ecoveted. By the 1920:.; , a-itiGS
la,m ented that the United -tares \vas alone in its espousal Gf the collar-~utached shirt for town
\Year. By the early 1930s. sof1- double collars we re accompanying the new dinner jacket. a dt:vel-
opment that sparked conside rable debate. Advocates of the stiff tollar regarded it as the key-
stone of classical male cleg;Jncc, the last b2stion against slovenliness.
U L

A youthful Anthon),. Eden (preceding page) dons a dress shiJ'twith a stiff. attached straigh t-
point collar. Notice how rightly knotted ·allrl therefore. smalL the ,knot had to be to fit into it'5
starched e1'1virons. The knot's positioning tlp, into. and directly out from under the stiff collcu·'s
inverted ''V', -point became the cr.iteria of smartness for the emerging :mft-collar fashions. Ju~t as
the tailcoat mentored the dinner jacket's evolution, the older .stiff-co llar,s design 3bet_-red that of
the newer .soft att:::~ched-col lar deconLm. Even todar. a dress shin appointed with a pw·posdy tied
neckie 3ffecting :.1 crisp knot si tting high in its collar is stjiJ a.n expression of an authoritative and
polished practitioner.
 PLAY YOUR BEST LINE

ne of th~ most important but least unde rsrood Functions of male attire is to l ~ad the
viewer's q 1e tow~u-d the f~Kc. Unde ,·standing the subtle balance rhe1t should ex ist between a
m:.111 's most visible and e'\prcssive body part- his ~~Ke-and the clothes that lead up to it is a
prerequisite of fi nc d ressing. By , .j rn1e·of its pro xi miry to the r=acc and irs con Figuration of angle.
scale. <llld mass. no article of m<tle apparel is better equipped to enhance a man's countenance
than the appropriately shaped dress shi rr collcl r.
The triangular sector formed belm' the chin by the "V .. opening of a burtoncd suir jad<.et
constitutes the cynosure or· a man's tai lo r~d cosnlmc. Sc,·cral dy1w.mics work to direct the ' i~wer's
focus Loward th is area. First of all. iris d1rcctlr uoder :1 m'"u,·s most an imated featu re. his f~Ke. Sec-
'
oncl this triangu l<lr encasement is ::~ccenntatcd b) contrasts between the darker jacket and lighr~r

shirt, silken tic and du lled or matre ~hirrin g. etc. gain. keepi ng in mind that t he face is that desti-
ll<.ltion where one's dress ·hould be escorting the attention of the beholder. think or the face as a
picture : 1 nd wh<:lt suno unds it as rhc frame.
'vVhcthcr or not the. color or pattern of a dress shirt coordinates perfectly with an outfit.
irirs collar is too small, the head will appear large: if the collar sits too lm\· on the neck. it \\:ill ma ke
the neck look longer than it is. The choice of a dress !\hirt should be guided fi rsr and fo remost by
rhc appropriatencs1-> of its coUar to the
\\ eatTI·'s I~Ke. rather tha11 the ,·icissihtdes
of !~1shion or person::~! "'him. THE CYNOSURE OF THE TAILORE D
MAN 'S PRESENTATION .
Ghoosi ng the app ropriate shirt
collar requires a bit of experimentation
and a li ttle common sense. A ~ma l l pic-
ture requjres a compar:1ble frame. just as
a smaller man with delicate Features
requires a collar of mo re restrai ned
dimensions. Conversely. when the con-
tent is mo re expansive, t he frame must
enlarge ro aftord proper balance withouT
disn acting from the intended focaJ
point. Just as large t;;lblctops beg fo r
ample pedestals. heavyset or big-boned
men require more ful ly proportioned
col hr~. For e.\.ample. former President
Clinton compe11satcs for his larger jaw
with slightlr spread collar~ \Yhilc balanc-
ing his Ful l face ·with vgenerous!)' scaled,
~

Founder qf'Black enterprise
magazine, Earl Gnives employs a long
poirttedfull-scale collar to balance his
lionesque visage.
structure by ejrher sorrcn ing it~ dominant line~ or strengthening its We;Jk o nes. Long-pointed
collars th8t are either pinned o r buttoned down will help to coumennand Faces ·with angular
SMALL COLLARS MAKE A LAROE
HEAD APPEAR LARGER .
long- pointed ones. Both Conan O ' Brien and Dm·id
Letterman pos ess pronounced jaw!incs and favor dress
shirts'' ith brgcr-proportioncd collars on camera.
T ht length nnd spread of the collar points
should complement the head's co nto ur and size. Long
straight- po inrcolbrs. those 3 inches or more. with li ttle
spread between rhei r points. \\'ill extend and narro\\' a
"ide countenance, just as the broadly spaced poi nrs of a
spread collar will counterbala nce ;1 long a11d narrow
l1Ke. Long- necked men require talle r colla.r.s with wider
neckbc111ds that l·aisc the collar's height. whi le short-
necked men need lower-sitting collars \\'ith a more for-
" ard lope. The tab collar or other pin-affixed collars
pn)\·idc the add itionaJ height thar can diminish a long
neck! i ne. The writer Tom \!Volr:C presents a fairly srrik-
itlg image \·Vith his lchc.1bod Crane-height co l l ~1 rs.
almost Victorian in thcir sriffness and grandeur, but
they do camou!lage his longer neck.
Collars .should also counterbalance the f;.Kial
features and strong lines. A Ful l l~t.ce that .sags around
the chin or checks dema11ds a stiffer collar to counte r-
~111d
act the effects L)f age grm it). \ Vhile soft burton-
down collar<; arc classically ty li.sh. they are too ortcn
fa, ored b) rhe double-chinned set, who should
e'\p re~s l r avoid them in Iieu of,, slightl )' firme r collar.
T hroughout 1980s ;:111d llluch of the J 990s, ill
an effort ro give men a mo re Gl."ual air. fashion designers
Lmfornmately tried to neutralize the dress sh ids n·ad i-
tionally d ignified and ordered format. Dress shjrt colbrs
we re .shortened. lm,·crcd. and softened to such a degree
that their original stylistic precepts we re eithe r disto rted
beyond l·ecognition or lost co mpletely. Abbreviated
button -do\\ n collars could no longer roll. shortened
straighr-poim collars losr contact with rhe shirt's chest.
and spread collar.s sat so low on the neck from their
diminished colh:tr bands th ~r they vvcre sapped of :;:dl
rhcir inherem llair.
 MEDIUM TO LONG STRAIGHT-POINT COLLARS SPREAD COLLARS COUNTER· LON G NECKLINES REQUIRE
WILL NARROW A WIDE COUNTENANCE . BALANCE A NARROW FACE , HIGHER-SITTING COLLARS .

Other than the Jerm yn ~ treet or odd bespoke product.

nowada)S most men nre wea ring dress shirrs \·Vith collat·s roo
small for their face t hat sit roo low on their necks. And. '' ith the
spread collar's ren1rn to the fas hio n forefront. those men vvbo
have adopted the so-called h ~1l f- or full -Vlind!'ior tic knot have
succeeded only in e:'{accrbati ng the problem. as its bulbous mass
inYariably fo rces the collar's already truncated length po ints even
farther off the shirt's che T
forhtnatel): tO\:va rd the late 1990s. dress shirt aesthetics
began to follow that of suits br returning to their cusrom-t~1 il ored
roots. Fueled by an Ital ian reviYal of classical clcg::uKc and rhe emer-
gence of artisan- made clothes. bigh-c11d menswear stepped into the
new millennium on bespoke footing. A plethora of ready-made
dJ·ess shirts are now beginning to 1-e' anu·e collars that no longer h.ave
to apologize fo r their style-defining presence. ·

Tom \!Volfe's t:alkollar·

cammiflages his long neck.
 ON THE FACE OF THINGS

nlike o dx~r less ,·isible acco utrements such as hosie r\' o r sh if't cuFFs, the shirt coll <ll. is <111
J

integral and highl y tTH~alingge~tuPe of personal style. All sop histiGltcd d resse 1·s have <.UI"i\cd at
o ne or more collar styles tbat best highlight their unique feattu·e.s whJe adcLng n bit uf dash
alo ng the ,;,-~1): The foiiO\ving me n ill~tstrate hmv tbeir physjognomy and sens~ a ( style inAu-
cttccd their choice oF dre~s ~h ir t colbr.
iS I NG
Mrl N

THE STRAIGHT-POINT COLLAR

,;ccausc the srraighr- poinr collar was the colJar shap.e gracing mos t millta ry- issued dress.
sh irts since \~ 1 VV 1, it has long been the foundat iun of the mndcrn man·s dress shirt wa rdmbe.
As the most stylisticall ),. neutral of al'l coll :1rs, the
str::tigh t- poi nt coHar can be wo rn wit h ~my kind of
sui t or spo 1·t jac ket. Ideally, its collar points should
finish bet\·VCC I11. 3/4 inches ond 33/ s inches in length.
The narrow opening between irs points favors a
rou.nde1·, oval-shaped face. rarher than a nar row one.
Here is rt man who chose to ti tle his autobi-
ography Lr Tt.Jol< Nine Tiii!Grs. As one of lloll y,-vood '~
great early Leading men. Adolphe ~~fenj ou vvas also one
of its lead.i ng dand ies. Jlet·c he is tailored to hi1:i own
measu re in a long~po inr ~ol.l;:u· with jusr rhc righr
amount ofcakulated disobedience to pla) the han·ied
polit ical boss in Frank Capra's The Mtul Behind the Presi-
dettt. I-:1is collar's casual deport111cnt not only de fangs
his aggrcss ivel)' .stri ped bespo kc su itiJl g but also serves
to elongate his OV<D contours.
11=you \vcre fceJ i ng unensr that rh is. coll;.l r
presentatio n was overly ball yhooe~. consider the
ne\:t victim. Here's a dJ•ess shirr perJo rmauce rhat is
dcfinicclr laying an ~gg. Engl and's L~sli e ll oward i~
pictured tak i11g ~l stl'oll o n deck as he returns to
ELu·opc aboard the SS Berc,ngaria (and, let's hope. to a
 Leslie Howard i11 a collar stylt
accentuates his mtrr01vjac

glXKI Jcrm)'ll .)trcct chemi~ic r). I low he has 111~111agc.d ro en me up \\'ith exactlr Lhc wrong collar
For his Face is <l nyonc'.:; guess. Its long ::m d \ 'l'l") perpendicular lines pick up whcl·e thL~SC or his
r:lce k·;n c otf. rendering his aIread) gaulll \'i:\~lgc e\·en more bnk. If there C\·cr \\aS a prj me C111 -
d idatc lor a spn.~<.ld-collcH ~hi rt. \ la.stL' r I lm' ard \nmld be it.
 THE SPRE1\D COLLAR

lh. ' '-pn.'.ld O:\lhJr hi.l~ be~n the kc} srane of rhr rngli h bespClkl! look slllCC the doub)c col
lar caml~ ro nm 11 during rlw c~lrl) 1920!-i. h~ intrl1duction 1~ "id'-'1} auribmed to rhe famous
P rin~o.·l· <.11- \\a l ~~. probabh due hl hi~ alk:ged t:rc-alinn oC the \Vind~or knot dml \\as supp •'ed to
l'~(\)J'I i I. In r:li1'll~~~. it "<1~ fGlll) lti-.;} oungcr hrlll her. rhe nuke nf Kc.Jir. who first p0pulanzcd ~t
])l'G1liSC or lht: sprca~_i \ inht:l'i.:'llll) d r\''iS} nnd L'legant Dl.'::tring. it h.L become h.1da~,
mosf implll't:lllt dress ~hirt CL)IItlr .\, .spread Cr"'lbr~ \:11') gre;:ul} 111
hL' !gh t. pur m lengll1. :liH.i open nco,;~. there are usual I} sCh>r:II model. Ihnt
wilJ llanc.r :lily ma11\ head shape or profile Ifani) for \:lnt't). some \c.:r
.sinn ul· lh~ sprl·r11J cdlar ~huuld be a perman~nr fixLnre 111 all mcn·s
\Yard robt.:s.
\ lrlll'ugh Prince Chark·~ mar~ rhi~ perfccl mb]caux of ro)al
~hirrmaking b, being caughr wirh his Cinger in hi ear. hi-. collnr ~m:hi,
reclllre i~ ·pot ~r111 (top l~ft) . The height, point Jengrh. and ~prcad of hi.
Turnbull & \:-"er glen plnid coll<1r Pl'inr..,; arc pcifecd) '} rnmetric:.1l \\ id1
the conrour.s or hi-; I.Ke '-otice ho" the. collar\ pl1im~ rouch hb che..-t
whil~ I'Clllt:li11 i11g tud~l·d under hi' coat's rront. e\ell \\ht?n flj~ head I~
wrned, one o( the 'rrcad\ p1·anical adv<.lntage." O\l'l' ~)thcr rnodt..~k In
~1dd nion. the: drmplc o( hi, l~our- rn- hand knot falJ, Jircnl} u11der rhe
"\ "po1nt ;Jt chc coiL.11·· top , \nd ju.st for good m~a~ure. nor icc tb::u hi . .
~IcC\ c cuA-ha-. not rcccdl'd from ,·icw, l''\·cn when hi-. 31'111 e:-;:rend'. cour
tCS\'
' nr tb longer
._ !'Ice\ L' and cJo,e fit of it~ cuff around hi' "ri't
lkc.lll'L' rhc majority of ltalia11 men are ~rnaller~buned. lllO!-t

fanq ~ome 'cr.., Jon of LIK -.pread colbr. FabJO Borelli. one of lml}\ nl'\\
gencratton of shrrr ~ m~1k111g scions. j.., 1111 c'.ccption. A. . hi~ l~cc t:1p....r ..
do'' 11 almo"t tl1 .1 pLHlll , the $prcad collar ~~ 111 fan. tlw onl) po,,ible
dcs1gn abl~ to coumcr~1ct such a conrom:
B~..m:ll tha-. L'mplorcd ~1 l11ghcr-sirring 'Pf(;'.1d ~.·oll.tr ro betlcr
F1-a.me hi~ I~Kc " l11 lc t i11 ken ng \\ ith rrad 1tiL'll wi rh L) piGll It:&l i.tn5prr::mmi1
(botto111l~fi) Pon·t think l~1r ~l minutL' rhm Ius cnlbr', :-light bo" ing. the
minutd} ,k~wcd .mgle ur hi' knot. ~>r ('\en the pcakmg ('lr hi .. de\ under
bl:ldc h.1ppcn tl1 bL· l.:'oinCidencL'. Tt) rhc conrr:Ir). 1his demon,tr:ltton of
noblesse IH:gligctKe 1., .llh'thcr rcmindcrL)f:.m almo~t culmml prcdi ptlsl
rjon bv lr:tlr".. :-t\ k· co~nn-,cemi ro conrinualh rc'h'rk rhc c..mon . . ofrng
u '

Ii-.h r.l ...lC \\ hu ,,,b rhar the male ~PL'Ctc' j, an} lcs drcorari' c minded

--------------------------
- ---------
£han th~ fi?m.1k·: lit,,, L'\ cc ltkc In~)-.r .1-.p~...·r~ of 'l) Ii.:-h habil i llll'IH. LTll'-' "'·l~g.111C"'' rc~idcs not i 11 rhe.:
elm he-. lhem cht!'' but in ho'' rht:} ,.tr~ '' ont
llerc·. rhc -.prL'::td collar ,:um \\ irhJ,or knct' llhJ~l in"'id~Hig~1blc champiun. the I.HL'

acror .lnd Jllthor 11oughb rnirbanb. Jr. (bdon~. ThL· lllnlllL'IH thi~ Clllbr Jnd krll)[ 1~;1111 hit L L)JJ

d n luruor nnmediarch e1doprl·d ir. l.'\('ntualh bcr.Jmin\! its lil~·l . .,nu ~1mba,sc.1dor. h1irb.tnb's
• J '- .._

cnthu''·' m 111.1\ haH" h.1d .1~ nmch to do'' ith the l:.tr~"'· klll'L and cnllar's ~arl: .Kccptancc b) rhc
beau monde as" nh it-. alleged in~tig<Htlr.
....
~
rhL· I )ukc l)r \ \ 'ind-.lH
1.! 9

TIH D Rf.SS
SIIIRT

OPI='OSITE :

\\ 'dl-proport(OIIt'J spn·ad
•
collars as li'OI'II b}' Priuet'
Chtrrlt·s cmd Fa(,;o Bol't.'lli

LEFT:
Dt1ug Fairbanks witb spmul
collar tlllcljitll
•
\ Vindsor kuut.

---~
j
 TilE I~OUNDED COLL 1~

"·ulbr shitt t·",d). l'.trl~ \riJ thl~ L·llll.tr stgndltnl lllllllh uf the \\nrld' m' t t ~.h
-r. . lup iJJ Pllt:

111.!1~ t·lub~.lli'Jl(<:' it!' tllll11iker. the ..,J,,b .. u)lbr I h~..· frttlll'U' \rrd\\ t:n11.ar ad .. 111 tht t..lrl h'• 11

r :. II\ l•
ti~.·rh l!clpl·d ll) t'lcutc tht ~ ~'' ll' llrolbr liltht• p.ulth..:t'll ('fda . . ,cdr"" ~lurt ·~.II H">
C\.'111111'}

l .\1 \ N .\s .1 ~lli'L .llt.tdu!'d ,·oll.lr the duh cniiJrbeL".mre on~ .-(rh~ 19~oso m "l p •P J.u·f ,flu
. . h.tpl':> 1u be \H'J"il ptlllll.'d IL' l.'lll"\\..' pl.tp. \J p.trucul.trh \\dl under dtL' Jc\ tdc ~ thlltt• II
L"hi~~.·ll•d \l~ag~ \ltlt,,uglt dw clt~b cnll.tr r.uL·h c.l\tH'l!-i mHtmg thr..: ma'- t: tfu, huld hr fh m
\ it ruri:m !\l)Cll'l) '"·a11 l)ff.hlOil dl} hl' lcmnd h~1bnubbmg" uh tht cu-.tum t.uf, rt d ' l l

Ilen·s o11t' ~r \mtTtnl ~

11ftl5tJ1slt fmralllt' Stltrtlll tt'S,

4\ Iilwul Jilfdrn. Jp1mill..~ 1111

carl}' im•oc,ttiou, aslwrr. st[f}:
to·tlttm:Jt cf,£, r,)nu:
 Tl-IE TJ\L~ CO LL;\R

tgun Ill thl' JlJ(,(), \Jthough it' pnpul.trin h.l:- \\:111cd due 1~1 til(' ill('Xtlf~lblc ('~1SU!lli:t~ltilll1 or
m.-IIL' J:1 ha,lt the t.Ib coll.l r r~mai 11 •.., a fd\ 1,ll"lt C ll ( tlw~t' ~C\.' kiII ..g t h:t t ('X tra Ill L.:.liKC 0 r n;H Lj 11\.'S'\ Ij I
Tlt..· tah \..llll.1r tutht be dc~ignc~..f perl~~,-tl} l~lr the tk" knot h.l r·~..·~t cPml1)r-rablr in ih l'Fk'tl 'rllr.DRlSS

mg '-pect.tll.tb-.la.'lL'Il rl> c.tch ~.Hh:.·r Luh.ll'r the tic\ km't tu huld tlw (lllhu··,. pt)illt" in pl ~K~' 1hnt.st S If nrr

mg dt~,• ~h1n cull:w .mJ rJt•ckrie knot higher up llllLI..:r d11.:· \\~,·;m.·r'.s chi11 l t,llg ll~("kcd r1tl' ll "ckurne
rht: rnb l11ghcr po moiling "hile the t\mnd or ~qu;lrc ,lmp~..·d \ i..;agc apprcl."r~ues 11s lt..)rrgitLII...lin:ll
,, mnwtr t )nguull) a 't'f-"''CCial br.t':- srud 'elur~,·d d ,~,. culbr I<l d11..· ncckb.md \Yhilc Ctmnccting 1h~,·
cnll.1r t,Lh'\ lod.1~ '' irh pre .1rrachL'd mb
lnlbr drc " lun a ~nap nr a burmn :nkl
bmwnh ,lc ~1pp.1r.1nt' •~ w.ualh substlllll\:'1..1.
1ltl\H:\Cr ,1\ "trh mt,:st uld \Hlrld ,,c,u·
.tbk· 1he ung111.tl bra's 'tud :;ull pn,jcct' :t
tn•'ll polt"iltcJ llph• tic..nton tl1.1n it' Jc,,

\ t4iu.JI mc.xil.'ru urrog3le'-

Hnt.lin'. .111 \\t.'r tn til~ 'l\ 1~.~11
'
suprl'lll,t(} ',( \ nll·nc.t\ I red \'ram:· w.t"
tlwtr l1\\ n tLlrt} rhe"pi.tn artJ huofcr l.h.·k
nudt.m.m In be cnllcd :t .. Hnch.man .. \\ .t~
J \))mplmtl'lll. su~L"'tlllg the r~crp1em
knL.,_, lu ... \\.1\ .lround J fi trin~... room \ nd
tha' Hu ·h.m.m gtl\ t"ould outfit lmn~cli
"
\\llh th. ocst ot"thcm

jm:l.: Hudwuau, the

always natty IJO(!f~T.
,md Britams tmsn•cr Ia
Ameriuts fred ,\stlllrc.
L---- -

T
 I)l.NNED COLLARS

t one pt)tllr during the 19~os. nt:nrl~ half nf all \mcrican men repun~dl} du...Jr \\Ofl:

dr\~s~ ~hwt cllllnr pinned. fod.l}: It" nuld be surprising to flud unc.: man in .1 hundrL'd o appumtcJ
\nnw llll'H lfth.lthe pinncJ C"01Jar ru.SS) : 11101\l IUL'Il ar'-' simp!~ imirllld3ted b) lt"i ob!Jgatuf} nggmg
~:on.-:idered hr man~ ,hin ..:maJH' to bt: rlw· pinnnrle ,_,r cr~lbred carnage tin 1s nor
th·~·k t r:1pping w hide bdtind. L'tllik,, 1hl· t:tl t :m ;1) or hul wn du\\ n. rhe pinnl!d coll.1r"s ~>nJi,h
or
11~''-S l'l~Cs ()J' Ctlls ill n:l:lli(lfl l't'l l'llL' ~ki ll its C:>:t?cution. \\L•aring it \\llh pnnach~ dt.>mandt, .lin
rJc pr.h·t·kL'. "l)fi1C tll.111UllJ dt:>\'lL'I'it}. illld ;1 bi1 o( p:tt it'lll'C.

runctiu11i11g lllLIC"h likt' thL' t:Ih, thl• pi1111Cd \-\)liar l';li l'.:i the ric knot L1p Oil illl' llCCK -.hort
Lning dw ltl1 tg_llcd-=. The ~t raighr puitll '' t:n ic:~lit) \\ C')rk w countt.'rpoint the rounded or O\J) con
totm.•d lt~.?al{ nr chin. Hack in their hl'htl\
, , in the thirties, strnigln-nninr
..._: r· collarc, \\C'rt• Gm hed at
bet'\\ ec-n 3 inche.' ond 3' 2 inches long.
m~1king \.
rhem n3rural candidarc~ for
pinning up. The mo"t common app.1
r.nu' "a. . a pbln gold ....Ift:q pm. llC\l

was a :-;on· or~pring-loadt•d :-,I ide mcch

i111i!'lll; while the aftciunado u~t"d a bar
''it h sh:1pcd end,., rh~n Ull!ilJ'C\\'tX-1 10 fit
through 'Pt>L"iall~ m~ldt• colla! t'~ dcts
Tht• next step in 'ur:h collar :Kcou
tremenr wa' m a(quire one dccrm11c..-d
'' ith a 'porring molif such .1!> a goli
dub. pol . ., malice or riding O\.lp
following dte 'aml' pnnnplt~
nf ~ryli...:h neck rigging. lhc pinned club
~.:·olbr rr.m ... pln"t~ 0nc quieth 01110f dte
ordinrtl) r·m·t~~ning 'nugl~ beneath the
1ic ku0r. rht' n_,m1lk'd Ct,JI.tr t ..lt:' .ue
rite "e<1rcr':. '""JII.1r ltcighr. ~m1 trs
~

l~~--------------------------

LEFT
.''lllk.s Fifth i\l't.'nuc:•-former dUJ;rmarJ, thr fl'iT
~

clt"~llut Plrilip B. j\ filler, dmmiug his sigmzture

lcm~~·~olut collm· 5tcum! h}' asimpit-gold Sl!f~' pm.
- --------------------------- -- - ]_
....---------

I
1 Riclt,ml Mrrkit1.
t,;, ned to pti~{t:ctiou .
•-#: 4 ..
• • •A...f.O. J:IU.J'rr\,
. .. ;1;; wwt
. 'It;
..• ,u;,. 11\.RAJt

l ftt:r rmrndcrllUtline harmoniz~' panicubrl} well

\Hth rht: quJn.- or angular j:m line \\"id1 no p~Jim ...
to curl up. bend 0\ cr. or go .tSke\\. the rounded pm
collar r~rn:IIIt\ trnn &md rid} throughour the d.1y.
\rtto;,t \\ ntl·r and \H~II-known ~ew York roiT
Ptdutrd ~lcrlcin pins lu' collar to perfection (rigl!O.

Tl-fE BU TTON -DOWN COLLAR

ntta.1fh popul.lnzed b} ~meric:1n port ... men ~llld htstcrn uni' cr~it) men during tht: 192t)~
and ll)JO-. the oxford buttcm~down i~ ,\mcril:a\ ..;oJ~ CI)Jit rilnll itltl IU th~ Jt.:~xicon o( pcrntallC tH
drc \ htrt fJshtOtl Sfnce \\ C.'lrld \Vnr 11 . rllt'LJpC:lll ~Ill hu~i;tsts have descended upon tlw
door rep uf lt'i hrme. 3.~6 ~1ad1son A\l!rtuc. to lo:1d up 011 this uni\.]liC AnH.'nran da~~ic. Utuil
rt.:ccnrl} nu elegant male could t.rn(url hi~ stripe witlwut at lc<lsr one 1\rollks l ~rother~ pink
tl"\tord gracing hts clo"l.;t
\\ rth dr..: tgner men \\t:ar helpmg to blur the disrmctton bet"~cn tlispns~blc :mll penn•1
nrnr t:Bhwn Brook<> Hrorher~ ha! fun her muddied the \\:Her.; b) abdicating t~ f\Jic a.' the ptl'tcc-
mr~u of \mcnCJ tr.1d1ttonnll"dsluon \s goe.' Brooks . () goe. rlw buttt-.n-down The 1\1 l caguc
l k \\.1. the l.tsr parrictJn in~;pircd men\ fi1shion to establish it"elf betorc the mors of!\ mcric;1's
upper -cLt· Llst~ "'~rc di placed in the uphca,al nf the 1960!' Pcacack RcYollllion. \Vcrc H 11ut 1;w

- -- ---------~-----
 - -----

the \ i"ion .md g~Jt m1s uf IL1Iph I .mrt·n \mt~r

Ka'... \'eq O\\ n n;~mmf ,Jwuldt..T '1' It \hlUid
h.t\L' f(>lhm~d lu-. alm,J nuter 1\n,Pl. Brurht•f
illLl' ~.J rll1rial ccltp"L"
·rradiwm.tlh (hd l nntmt 111 I. h.nl

i11n,uc da !11Tll:'11), Lxh )'\.:Jr. .1 'm til r,ucril- ( (

J-r~'IH."h nnt.4 ltnlian ml.·rchHH\ uU~r" up tl"iCI\\11

1.1ke 011 1 ht! h ~ l.t?nguc look in~prn·J lT\ l ))J

\\~-:wid ll nng.L:\, I ~r \menc.Ui "iftCic[1
& dl ria~ in
"-:~·" pl 'n or Palm H~.~arb
\ Vltt."n ho~Iin!!
.. :J necktie thl hutwn
dm, 11 collar prLljCl."l' .:~bout the :o;:tmc lrh·l of
~.Jrc:-. . inc-.!- as the n~l\} hl.lh'r llr \\t;it.'Jlln 't\ It!
lt•:1lcr. t'\t' uf ir, more fi·equcm rocnn-.pir:unr...
I ike Llll' blue bi.IZer. [ht: trxl~m.1 buncm dll\\11

c1n bt> dn?s..,cd up or do\\ n :1hhwugh 1t t~nd~ tn

t"O tl!'-nn lllL)rc o•mlunabh '' ith l1kc lc\.t-un.:d

1~1hrits "LKh a~ llmmd ur "' l..'t·d fn rhr burtt. Ill

dnw11's ~.1lnd d~ip:. all 'l)'IL' \\.1!\ I~Jrl~·itcd ,!Juuld
its pl •im.; brk ~uftkient kngth h) rnll t>h'r .md
pl,t: r:I-.wtl.

-----------
ABOVE:
Scquestad .uniJ irs crm;ir~ cir:.o 1950, the
buttotJ·dowJI isjllwkcil br otlrrr ll)' Lraguc
both1 jldt's, sl!} i, 5houldtr tu wd span _jc;ckct. m![ird
smr.f]mwt'ls.foulm·Jfallr-in·h·wd. ,1,ll>Jkiu \'rst.
1111d s/ri'·Llll ttlt'Ctast'ns..

LEFT
Spc,1kilt~ t~(tlwsc u•htl like rhm:fi1sJu'on
unlmtttltzt'd. ,,bst·n•.: s,~utlr
.. Bnrbtras sldglu
tlf/umd.
. Nm btli/Jt'riH£ ,,, brlfl.tiiJ his L't,flar~1tnls.
~

lrt· 5t't'mS ftl hr~rc trmrtd 11 blind l')'i: tothasr <1U his
J•1dm t15 wdl. Barbera..'• 51.}'/ish impt~/i-aum
Jut• bt'c'' parrlr inspired br his Cl'lll1tr}':' ol!'lt
~i~uc1r
..., at'srric.
. Gmr1ui .Agm1li 6-r.rpagr :!Jo)

~---- --

l - 1
- -- --------------------
 I

"' CRO CtofFC"K 8LUI! BA"llSTE

1.
I
I I
j 1
ETON BLUE ENlXJN•END BROADCLOT>-t
\mH fANCY BOND STREET STRIPE HIGH-COUtiT MULn-TRACY. BLUE
BROADCLOTh

OLIVE l·11NI.CHECI\ POPUI'f

CttAMB~V GRAPH CHECK L!Gt-flWEIGI'iT F.ANC'r" WEAVE
BLuE 8A'n5Tff.
0PCrt·WF".AVE l IOHTWtiCHr 0£!l..iFT BI..UE P£!14CIL.-5TR!PE BROJ-\C>Cl..OTH
BLUE O>tFOnu

COTION/LUiEN PASTEL BLUE CAMBRIDGE BLUE C.-.r•m· Sl?JPE 8ATIST£

MADRAS STRIPE

·r

. '

( OFHIFLQV/1 R BLUE CRIMSON HAIR U HI! CtiECK

C.oTTON/Lti~L t~ PoPL.III

, 12 ~~ ,~ ~~ 1- I~
~,. I~ t~ ~~

'~ I~ ,-;
1;: I~ I·
•
I• r•
t' 1= r~ ~~
f•
l>
I~

I" I; ,.,.,
• I<
,, ~~ I· I~ ,_
'' 1- b
I'
I'
"' ~~ I,

,,. h
l•
I' lq-
F F
·-
f1t l f r 1 t f ilii
 FITTING TJ-IE DRESS SI-IIRT

th rht:"' ex\:epriun ;..)(the (r:.lian~. wh0 blJt\.l~..·r t\ll

d11..' f~ti'hl'llL rd.tti\l~ t1..1 rhl..' fir of rhcir
dn...:s' ~hirt:-.. mo:-l
men \\C;Jf their~ roo tight ... iu the neck roo ~h<.'rr in rh~..· ~k·c' c.
nnd hXl tl.JIJ.uound th~..· wri~l. The explanm ion l~1r thi.s i~ n. .•l
.1 thl'l~ ~1111ple- ,u.:xe..,,ih~ ,,,c.hin~ "hri11k rlw collar .sizt• and
kc' ~ lcn~th.
•
'' hif~ mo't manulacturcn...111,)" cnuugh cttFr
,, idth t~)r a l.u·gc Rol~..·:-. - . . izcd watch to drh·e rhrough.
~ ~

,hirt i~ u.;de'"· \\ i£h the top bunon cll):-c-~..L f\\O f'inger~

should be .1blc ro ~I ide com tortubh bet\\ ccn l he neck and

I

rhe coll.tr or,} fl('\\ ... hirt \lo:.r fine .. ltirr 111~1kl'r. :tdd all
l'\.U'il hnlf inch to the ~mr.~d collar ~ize r1..1 al111W i(lr ~hrink­ 5EMl-'SPREAD COLLARS
SHOULD HAVE NO TIE SPACE
.1geduring the fir r se,~ral \\a.;;hing' Should the coll:lrl)f~l AND POINTS LOI'fG ENOUGH

n~\\ TO BE COVERED BY THE

drt:'- shirt ftr W perfecTion \\hen fir...,l tl'll'd 011. l'l'l'lll'll JACKETS /'IECKLINE

nor risk bemg 'Lmnglcd bcf0rc ro") long

.\-..the WI"•L)·:-. ~~.xund ~kin. th..! shrrr should l.it' Cl1111~
fun.auh \r a mmimum it :;hould be cut full t.:lll'ttgh ro :tlh)\\ Llw w~arcr ll) sit without cotKt'rn l~1r
\\ hcth<.~r it~ fwm \\ ill.(}lpl' opcR r\Cil mXlll:ll.shrinkagc 1JI' \\l'lght galll' shottld nnr cr1.~~1LC lc.m~ioll
ili.."l'Ch' th~ che t o1· \\ ai't. The :-.hi n'.s (l\ cr.1lllc ll~L
... h shoukl be ~u\.'h rhat \'( 1u c:m rai..;e \ 'Our mIll' " uh
(lLTt it pulling out of the trow•cr rop.
\\"hen n necktie is worn the collar\. point.s tlltght tl) h~ .1blc m rcm:1in in t0uch "irh the
hu-r' bod} no m.Hl'cr ho'' the wc.an:.-r llll'll' hi . . hc.1d Sl.·mi spread to cut.1\\ .1y c~.lll~ro• should h~n e
no th.' p:tccabme thL· ric"... knor. \\ith po1nL' lung ~.:taougl& robe ~..-mer~..~d bv rhc j;Kh·r·~ neckliue.
'\nd finLilh nu p:~n nf the colbr·, ncckband ~hl)ttld pc~k out n\l.'r rill' ric·~ knnr
\\ hether barrd or rrl.'ll('h cull r -
rhc bin nun tit '"~:tugl) .lround ihe '' nsl I
IF THE SL.EEVE l.Et4GTH ANO CUFF FIT
., th.u th~: addinonJilt•n,glh required ll' CORRECTt...Y 1 THE WEARER SHOl)C..O BE

k~L'p the cul'f from pulling bhck wh1:n I

I
A13LE TO EXfEND HIS ARM lf'l ANY
DIRECTI0~4 WITHOUT THE CLIFF
rhc nrn 1 ~~ e'\rendccl dot:~ rtnt l~lrCI.:.' ir. PUU.ING AWAY fROM THE WRlS-r.

dm, n d1t· hand. hurt cull and hand

. . huuld mm e :l"'d.lllt!. Iftlw hand can t-1i de:
thn,ugh thl' cufT opening \\ nhout 11rst
nnt:l,tt>nmg 1t tht' cuff\ nr",_unt~rencc
'' httl l.trgl!
0

~--~-

------
 --- --- --
I DR.ESS Sl-1I fZT MODES
--

{1:\l men arc r;ntght tv ~mplo}' tlw dre's slun a a harmomzerof the uit and lll:Ck

tic \\he' ll tltc g.n g,_., L'i~hri~-. trnnsform~d 1he IH.>L"ktic into a rior of patt~rn the drt:,., ~Inn \\.lS
fo rcPd t \.1 t.1k1-. a backsc:lt \\'hik· the 'l"bd dn.' ~ "hin pro\'ide), :1 blank can\a . . ou \\hach tc.l

J------- - - --- imprmisP theaccompli,1t0d dn.'·~cr\\rll frequemh optlrn·rht•

l~tnl) shin tn ~en c :1~ the cn~t·mble\ foLal p HIH h:J \\ hicb tilL

necktie ~1 11d suit ja\rket llll!Sl rltcn pa) Jl.'fercnce

The f ngli!'lt cia's'} tl!!lll is rcspc Jllsihl\; for thi~ rcahgtt
llH:'Ilt ll ,. rurnishing:-.. Ill pn!"~lr rjme..'i, 111U"f uppt't' d.l~li I ngltsh
llll'll t ) pically "orl" on I) 1h~..ls~ n~d. tiL' rh.u d1c) \\ere emnled tn
b} 'irtUL' .._,r a publi-..· 'ldmol. milimq regiment or pri\.HL' dub
a((i Ii,n inn. \~ the- 1) piral [ngl i~h ari.stocr.H CllJO} ed no more
rhan a duz~n or so of these assocmunn~ ht
era' at cdk·crion "3!:\ thereion.:• ~oml'\\ h:u
TOP · limitt•d. -f(, comrcn~att'. he ronk ll'\ di\~r,rf)
Punctttilting 11 plam
ing ht-. "('mbcr "Or'-ted....md pr(:dtnnbl~ duh
backdrop. the shirting's
tics wirh ')llappicr- k,,_,king drc....:..: ..;hin \~he
bold srnpe lights rtp
both center stage t111d bcgcm acculllulming more dn.,.,, 'hirt' rhan
1\Ir. J-lo111ard's l'isage n~ckric_ , lt!nnyn Street~ ltkc "a' 1lc R1.J\\
LEFT· bL'ltm.' it. b~c1mc an ~.:-mirl· ~trcct dt!~med ro
\ \' ith "polka dot lhc cr:Jft t,fbL"spt'lkL' ,hinm11kcr~
dress sl11rt and a A::. rhe_x~ nt?xt piC! ure.•. an:e"1 du'
breast packet ~(
, pirircd drc~~ :-hin nltcrnariH' ran ll'nd
pattcn·nrd .srlk.
Douglas Fairbanks}r -.m;l rtnc~s ro rhe wilorcd ~cennrill '' i l hout
tmmps up his so/rd compromi.-.ing the boundanc" L f £,ood tJ. te
.suit cmd tic. lkc.usc rh1" t~ m11ar rdi~, on .1 lugh dt.•grce
o( cnuntcrpGint b~..·mcetl ~uiL. hin and 'Ill'.

j[ lL'11d ~ t ('t JQ\'01" dll' htglh"'r· l'Oiltr.l'l (0111

plc\lun. I lo\\'C\ ~ r. n!len!ng :-ouch -;1 tn• )1\.iintlt ion l' no mu~r

~'nmpliGncd rh~111 . . L'~ui ng a Cc" \.1f ~L"lllf nl'"i \\ardn.A>e .. w.ndb\~

Ih.::\ r Ll) d irt~rl"·n r di 11111.: r p~11-rncr~.:.
Iktt cr culbrcd and ll"l'king quire .. urc of himself: rhe
[ngli~h .lLll)rTrt'\Or llow~1rd ddth 'J'c~a pot~miall~ Hat pre:-
~

cmaril'll b,·
'
c:1sL 111~
.. hi~ JrL''' -.hirr in the leading rt..ll'.

-------------------------- --------~-----~ ~ -
 DRESS SH IRT f\ EST l-1 ETI.CS

n addition ro tbrrcring.. d1c we~lrt·r. dte drl·'' 'hin ·dllluld t) p~ with an ourfit'_... sq·k· and le\'d
of formnlit} \\'hile \.iiffering collar ,t· k~ Ct)lllh'tl? \af) 111g degrCt.'' of dn.:s' up so Jtl certain
,hirt fitbrin.. fhe ~,1phi. rica red drc,~t.r "ould lllH normnlh pa1r a ~ptlrty butron-d,m n \\ ith an
dct!:lllt
... mn,. ~mit. nor would lw marc ~1 .;olgnt~ dn>" -.ltirt "1rh contrastlllg "hire collar wiLh a
c.bu.tl t\\t:ed 'Port jackL't. Although rhe Ltl"<;c;~t~urc attitude of modern men\ t;1!'hinn ha~ TilE OR.HS
obfu,c.-ntctl mall} o( rh<'~~..~ guidt:'lim_. . ., that ,.l(l...'gu.lrlkd glluJ ra.•m.~ sc,eml r~main thnt :11-c .st ill SlllR'T'

rcle\alll in J:--~c;;sing "hether a particular dr~..·-.s 'l11n will add <11' ~ubtract from nn cn.;cmbk·'s
imcndcd dre,,i IIC~!'.
\ ,bin' lorm~1lir1 begin~ nr the collar. irs lllt)st prominent and defining feature. The
nffer rhe collar. the more lormal1t' lntcnriun-. Th~ more t>pen rhe coll.a.r·s point' rhc l.lre.ssicr
rhc prc.!'enranou . \ conrra:-ring "hirl? Cl.)llar aurnmat icnlly adds ccrcmOn). while most tab or
pinned col1.1r~ heighten the ~'crage solid or patterned dre"' .;.hin' pruprict\ 1.\ofrcr collar Cl)ll
il~ur.utOn~ such a~ the buuon- down or u nsrarchcd long po11n rank lower on rhc formal i r; .scale
The cuff al..;o COil tribute~ to the overall d"fcG. Tht• formal sh1rt's stit"C '\lllgk· cuii which
<c.

accompanies the whire r1c Jnd tailcoat prc\Cilh the lllo-,r formal arrangcmcn t \ Vhile Lhe
f rc..:nch cuff drcs:-c~ the hand more than the Sl<lndard buvton vartt'[\'. the double-button curf
~

«;mtr..mb the tngle-buuon

.... in wrisr dl.'cnrum .
f .1bric 'l'rvcs as the next indic:nor 1.1( Cnrmnlil'\. \moothcr L)r more lu,tmu~ m.tt~..·rial!'
'
nrl' drc' icr \Vhit~ broaddlJth ranks ab,mt t:qually with" hitc-on- \\1hite broaddnth in l~>nn!tl ­
iq. '' hile "hire ro) al oxford run:-. a dusc .scc~md. \\1 hit~ ,·nik' l~1r summer inches (lllf rlw ''hit~
pmpoinr. \\ luch do~' the same ro tbt.: rcguhlr white nxrord.
\ for nomdurc solids. blue brnadclorh registers bd<)W white-on-" hiLc but abmc the
\\hire oxford in torm.lln} \Vhilc blue L'lll1-on-cltd nllt.:~ :1bnut equally wirh white pinpPint o :\:f0t\l.
pink. pan.tcubrl} in broaddorh. is nor lar behind. ft llluwcd bv \ dlnw t)r gold. ran. and then green.
A } ~ ~

fhc drcs~illC." or a fany --hining is derermined b) the amounr of whirc in the design·~
ground \\'hite ground pattern~ di,play n mon:: f:t~t id ious air than a en bred ground !:1bric. mak
ing them n step up on the fDrmali:Kldt?r. !11 n t\\t)~culur stnpc 11r dwck wlh..·rc whit~.· is the
ground the bdder pattt:rn denorcs the 1~ .... dn.::-S) ~al'lll<'IIL l-iner srripl'' ;trl' lllOI'L' rl·remn11i.1l il.
not mnr~ att~tL'rc than widely "P·1ccd ;;rripc". \\ hile:: the ~111a llcr dJc dlcck. 1)r plakl i11 ~, pallt'rm·d
-.hwung. the Jre!'sicr the (•(feeL l n gutct';ll. n hllri,.nrHnl - -arip.~d ~hin wdl n~ad drc~~ic1· t h:lll t ht:
o;;amc ~n·ip~ running\ cnicall).

-
 - - -- ----

SI-1I J~T

ltlmugh pure whitt~ hr~~ trndttionall) been th~ color of choiCe I{ r a ba~1\_ dr\:"' 'ihnt
medium blu~ ~Ktu.dl) llnn~r' 111nr~ rnen\ fact?" thnn "hit~ l)um \',hire ~m drain J\\,l\ \\hJt lutle
na1uml rolor lllt'll {:'Xtrdc kk·' {,i,Jn pr•>ducer~ "ill ad' i c rnale gue~t'i tt) dun :1 blue drl'"' "hln to
\'t)lltpell~.nc ~1r the :-:;wdru's -.trtHlg ligl11 ing. "hich tend' tt • ll.uJt.•n and \\CJkcu tbL" rompll'~wm
lu~t ~1s a tll:thl~gnm· t:-~ble lend~ a mnPc.:' l'xpen-.i'c :Htm ltl thr: irem plxed on it mediUm
)R f." S"' :-.: G
Hr. M-,z... blu'-" t..:nl iH'th :tl l men ~t ,l~n rnnL\"i. r\ 11) l"~ dor Lll' lt~:'\ltl n.• pi.Kcd un llf nc.tr a 11 nc llt mhq medium b-lnc
drl's~ :'hin .llllt'lll~lli\·:111~ ~1ppc~tr~ wnrn1crnnd richer t\tl(';l't half of a JlJ:lJ]\ dll!C'n or~o dr\~"- "llln~
.... hnuld h.k:lll} he itt '!JtlK' 'hade t)f ~nli~..l blul" or in :1 predominant)} blm: panern: The l pr\J\ 1dc tht:
mo:'l \CI'!i:Uile b.h..-kdr. . )p rl) Cllt'rdin~Hc a 1:1ilorcd ~.·n~crnhl~.· (~ce ,hn-r fabric~ gatL'fnld)

"-.uurnll1: 'nme blue hue~ ,Jffcr n'mplcxions moru help than t'lhcr:-;, bm then.: an: m
k·;1~1 'L \l'ral ~h.h.~l'~ <)f n1L·dium hlul' tltnt notabh' im·igorate C\Cn. mnn·. kin lOne nnd lu"t'-'r
...
The trick i:' ll~ rind the dt?L'f'C.'t -.h~dc ol-blue tlt:1r highlight!' the face without di~tr:tcting from
it.. \nd It_:...(, rH.ll be misled b\' dw~'-' l1\t.'fC:l.St. .llllll)Sl ru\nl
I '
numbt-r~ that have been JlTlllllOh.:d of
l.nc \\ith ,jmilar ~ t~..mcd ,olid rwcktic~. The} art? ret another nni\'C :.Iberr.ltilln frnm good t.Jstc
and pt..:rmancnr r~1:--hion lust~. red by dw irJLhl'u ,.\ Jh..:c-d for -.bon tl!rm Jl•)\ dt} and pro in
, \ 111n11 "ith .srroil!l
~-'
(OtHTa~t in hb Cl'llll1k·xi(l!1
t
G11l L'llJ.O\' ,1
I
lnrgcr nlO\!e of colors. mclud
'- V

ingdL'l'P t1JtW blue-. like dlL' (~ambndgc t"~r \-\cdg\\Ol)d -.hade.> fotl111..1 in fin~ l'\\ 'l ph hnJaddnlit
rn}.1l 1:\l(ltTL ur d~1rkL'r cnd-un l..'nd cnthlll:->. l·a ir... hairl'd men'' irh nultl'd complexion~ r.111 hal
<llKC their ligln~r tone" '' ith ,l,t't lntt?~o.1 blttL'' ,ud1 a-. end-on-end~. ln~(ords ••md mint check~
,,j,o,l '''-'a\l~~ u-.c \\hnL' to reduct: the blue's intt?n.sity. \\'ith :1~ummcr t.m.thcdcrnh ofhluectJn
bL· incrca~cd t•l play up the hcightcned colnr contrasr bct\\ccn ,l....iu and hair
Cream or ran can be complimcllt~ll'}. though thl!_,c lo\\ - inu?n,it~ ~hade" dtl mure f'-H.
the muted than rhc ClHHr~bting cnmpkxion Pink is .:-omt:'time~ 'i~w'-~d .1' too fcmminc .1 ~hade
far men~ ho" L'\ '-"r. d1e ptnk l>~ford butttm dP\\11 h~b bc~n :1 lindtpin ,,f ~lad1-.on. hultlc fort::
l·or fift) }CUrs. Pink ~11'\t) tlancn• th1..· m~} dweked Yi:-agt' \\'hen bcdu:-kcd \\Hh "comr.lstmg
"hit'-' L'olbr. and p;litTd with a dark gr.ty l't' nm~ :-.tnpcd ''or.srcd. the pmk end on end drl'!'
.-.hi n , >I' b r, wdclut It d rl'~~ ~It l l't t:"Ollt i nw: ....t.s :1 perc 1111 ial (a, ~.lri reo Crill' Jenn ~ n . Lr~t.~l 'er
)cliP\\ t..lr guld toi1C' <ll'l' highl) de!'irablc bur .;rrnilarl) unden:lht(•d drc-.~ -.hin ~~Jint-...
L.;nlikc blue. 1he'' dl, han: a drawback \ IL·n ,\It h ,,,lin'" .skin nt?ed to -.t-ecr de1u· ,11- thC''-l~ ~hadt:
~

nul their dwmp:tgnc "F"'rklc Glll impnrr an cl.lll .md \ielliq t('l .lll} suit from the bnmn~
thn.'ugh thc \!rav.s [~) naY\~ t_;t)ld j.. fn.:oucml}
"" '- 4 "l
u,cd :I' .111 .Kcem LOior in mnm p3ttl:-rned ncrk
l iL·='· M l j fa lllilll ha:o. lied..' of blond lt~1 j I~ l'Cht)i ng It Ulldt''l' l he d1i11 i:' illl oppnn liJlC \\:1\ ITI Jllu
~

mina1c .
Lhe l~tCl.'. In t:h:L, rhe bold \'clkl\\' \ll' gl1ld 'l ri1~cd drc.'' .:-hin .md blu~ bhllcr "ilh glldl·d
~

L ----~~-
 TI~IE -\TTERNED DRESS SHIRT
PA

__...-omplexu.:m .aL o dictate~ rhe dtLlil·e l)t" pau~..·rn. t_1ncl' :-tg~tin. the :1mnum o( (l}lllJ"<l.!-t
ftntnd 111 rhe curnpl~xton .tboH" ,,iJI~..Iin.trc i.he dcg.rcc nl.(l'lllra.sr dc~ircd bckn' Tit~..· h:1irlinc.
pm penctl. ...h.ldlH\, BengaL ~Uld , ..tricgarL·'--1 . . rripcd \t'llilt~!' cnju} h.mg- q~1n~..1111g ptlpulnrin on
dw bu:!!llll''~ circuit In the dlL't-k t"amil). the pin. mtnJ:nurt• graph. and ~mall bo'\ t:Jttcr....Jil ~lfL'
af-;l) h1uhl} rcc,J~n;zL·d (igurc_, \\ ithin rhe cor1Jl11·nrc l·h.l.1rdn)<llll.
~ ~ ~ Tu r D R.FS.>
\\ hilc it\ h~1r·d roO\\ n Lt1ll Jll.tll) simplt• bluL' and "hitL' 'ifl"lpt.:d dn.;:-.s .shirt'i the ,,1111c SHIRT

C.lll bt• ,JKI ior duN_. dr'--'"''}' mini ch~?ck . . rh.n t'IYc('L .1 prL'dl,min:mrh bl u'--~ b;KkgrnUtlLL fkc~1t1'C
rh~ 'mall f:tnq blue l'heck nppcars like .1 '()ltd from ~1 di!'ltallC'L'. ~ub... tnuring [he fi11e blul.~ ch,xk
fc•r .1 blue soltd ~hirt lcud-. an .1ir 1.lf ~ophi~[i(.nic111 with liul~ n.;k t,l-ru,,lnc"s "'lnpc' or check'
"Hh red .K(l'llt .. '\'liii u ruddier L"Pmplc:\il)n. whik·) L'lll.)\\' l.ll' ~<.)ld pattern~ f3\·c,r the 1:1ir :-.kinnl.'d
ur blond mJn ~ll'tltum Lu bonk· ~rt·cn ~rripL'' \lr !'limplc grt'l'll graph chec-ks un whitl.' grl1ttnd-.
an.· ~11\\.l\-.: n lt .. h. c~pccialh under rhc das,Jc n~n'
r 1
~.u· bl'J"a\, \\'l.)f",h:d su1t.

\\ i th il '' hlll' ground srripc or check. a co1Hra'r i ng \\ h1tL' ftll b r 1' .1! \\'3\'" .111 npt il,n. and
It' lu tllrical pro,enance ,Jmuld nor be i~tlt''lred. Thl' cnnrra,ttn~ '' hitc col!Jr drL'':- -,IHrt'- h:1rl..
~ ~

buck w the d:t) :s of the .. cparak~ collar. -ltkb). unl) the

nJUildcd. club l} pe (prcfcrablr rinned) 1.ll' Lh~ \ L'r~
open .IImtl"t (ll[:J\\3\ mndcl nrl' "t' Jj,h cnnugh il,
4 ..

hold their tm n \\hen C(Hltrasrcd again:-.t

... n different
color or pancJ·ncd ,lurt bod). ContrM) to popul~lT'
uplntlHl the cunrrn ting \\hirt.' coll.1r Joe' llOl rlxluirc
a mJtdmle \\hire I n:nch cuff ro maintain it' pt:•digrl'e .
•1lrhough a d\lC' mon:: m catch rhc c?} e. \\'!tile the
m.Jtdung I r'-'nch culT L• al"a)~ atcl'ptable..1 buuon
cutT h.l" no place at the cud of a ,J('c' e an!tdt~d rn a
\l11rr" •th a contrasting\\ hire collar.

-~- ------
 ..
DRESSING TI-IE 1-IAND

hi n culT dc~ign usuall} C\ oh ~'along"

nh collar ~11 lc-. and durmg
tltt· nitlL'fc~.:•nth L'L'llllll"), curt!- ,111J colbr!\ .shar~d rnnn} famrcs I d.~ dlc
blttlll. "G' '~1rc .;inglc Ctll lnt: till.:' ~birr cuff '"1~ n.::ctangubr and uA1, ~ I

~1.1 rlhed. The cuff could ai.M' DL' ~inglc or double hut It ''.IS tltt: Ia ncr
~~~~·m that came ru ig11il) fonm1lit} "eparmc cufi-., lske rhe dctarhablc
'"·ollnt·. n ,u iJ be l'l'\l'l''l?d '' ht."n '..111l' edgt.· wa' ~oiled
In thl· lllllL'h..'t:IHh (('llllll'). thl' cuff \\i})oi orlL'Il left unbununoo .lt
the ~i~.lt.· :md could hang ~1bmtt h:1lr :tn incl1 bckm the co~u :'llt:c\e a thrm'
b,Kk tn the dap \\hell dw -:hirt \\:1:- cothid\;-rL·d undcnn~nr ~md \Cn~d a~ .1
pmtc(t i' c b) l.:'r again'il rougher m:ncri:1l~. In prim:ipl~ mudcn1 nrf( t"anun
1\,lkm:-l irs forcbl':ll·,· ,tc.;thcric "irh th·~ ndded LJ\~ar thar a hmt l,f hin
linc11 bel('" Glll make 1hc ;Jrm appe~H· kmgcr. prO\ 1ded rh~ J·Kkc:'t\ ~lee\e
k·ngrh is Cll r rcct. J\ 111~111 with "'H'rl <WllS .shpulJ .th\:n!\ c:..nlr~it
'"'- r 1
d11 .. ~leioln
.t;.
l)l.h;111d ..

\mcc rhl' h~md g~...·,nt rc~ i 11 :1Cl.·orth1Kc \\it h a mnn ·~ facial C\lJfC"

~it'll" l~'~r drama and ctnpha'I' drt.·,~ing 1h1.:' h:md an ran~ n . . o.,harc of JC..'-·
rh~...·uc focu' and cumnl\l'f<\) J ILrL· i~ l wl~" nh>st rentt\\ncJ daJJdroftht.>
carh (\\ cnticrb (('Jlllll): th~...· pnct l~abriel~ r)1\nnunzi•) (t..lp). ··. ..huonng hi'i
cuC(, .. ln11nmacul:ne rcpt)S~ rh'- 'riiTculbrand cul"fdc.\:lfC h1s appl!.ndag~
w pnruc pcliccttun.
T he dcb.HL' bcm ccn 'ri IT 'l'pnt·arc collar. . and ,ofr ;lrt~u:hcd LJI1C'
had l o~t much nf irs 'ream b,· rhl.:' time bunon-dtJ\\ n comJoj,!'.rur Fred
.J

\-;t ..ltl'l' .1ppcarcd in tht ncx1 pil.·ture. .t\merira·, O\\ n ma,rer oi -.tage
5crcctl ..lth.1 "orr st\ lc liked hi' Hroob bunnn dm, n~ "ith ju t ~1hc,ur
e\cn·rhing• Of\ 'uir~ drl'SS\ wL·dding\..- nc~ c1rdig.m
~ '-r
.S\\L::m~rs lie even
pinned Li1L' collar dL)Wil jlL"t tLl •. ho" it" ho wa' bns!- Perhap:- ir take~ \..llll'
jaunn pcrt~)nncr tll ~1ppnxiarc ~llh)rhL·t .1 .. \qajl'c'!' Fulded ba~k ...tun cuti.
pia)!- t lw pcrfrct 1~'1il tn ht!\ coll.u··, unprcdi(t:Jblc roll (a:urcr) L1kc:- 1he
~b,1L·cr's g~11t. ht~ clothes al" :1) s appcarL'd In PL'fpt'LLtal morinn
Thmk 1he .shirr cuff" a~ d'-''l~Ik~d :-imp!) ~1:- a milormg comn' ance
inr~...~ndcd 10 join rhc ,Jcc'c ro rhc" rist? k:m C\xtc.m Jidn'r (bnrr,mr) \~hi'
CL'llllltl'\ 111<111 ~lcph:111t" \..~rappdli did for the jazz Yiolin. Cl't.l~.nl deuttcd
rhc orn:1mcnr <lr Lhc "1 ;,r wan an l~m11. dr'-'-"ing hi . . h.md "ith the ...11m?
crcati' in he im·cstL·d in ~1ll m~tncr. . 'j,ual.

L__--~----------~
-~---
 THE SHIRT MONOGRAM

hen laum-lq ":1!' fjp.r scnr tHrt ""(till· hnn11..'. rhe 11hllll1£1"<lll1 was used tn mnhcnticatc
O\' ncr ·hip lu the heHi:n· l'( men"_.; t:1,hwn. llll'llvvr~11111rrcd
S I C'
br.llL''. iniualcd belt bth:kks. :1r1Li
embroidered pucker b.llldkcrcllrL'f, ''ere pllpuhH gifr, (rom gn..llllll~ w u:-hcr" "hilc rL·gardcJ .1 . .
roken~ of .ll"fc"·ri)n (rom rhc t""~ircr ~C\.. ltKhl\. 'lli11C men Cllll'ldl·r rhc drspla) 1Jf one·~ i11itials I..} I
,OiliC'\\ h~lt prcrcllliolb. \\ h ilc l.H her..; .lpprcc i.HC ll' J~ :1 \ ig11 n r i n"ln id ll~l i i ~ and Cjll<ll j l} . TH f. D k E.S'
"-111cc d,c: drc'' ~hin 'Ll.' CLm~tl·krl'd und~.:n-..c.1r until \\ell rnro the l~tc 1930' J1l(t~t SHIRT

lllCillOgr.llll' \\(.'rC Su.l!IL';.ttL'I"L'd rrom \ ic\\, L'lthl•r l)ll thl• bllttulll of the 'lh 1rt\ l;.ll l 01" bCI1L'~Jth thl'
uir \c't .\:- thl? n~.st began w d1'.1ppcar and men bq~an n..1 remmc thcrr )Jcl-.cr.;. 111 publiC. Lhis
In de qe cue bcg.m w acqwrc it' P\\' ll cadu:r.
l )j..,crt:riL"m i.-. par~1mow1t to gp(Jd ra!'itC. ~md
la~c
~
or con,!JicwJu.,h
r nlncL·d
r initiJI.-. an: indr.;crcet.
J

Di pl.t} mg one\ m 'lll'gram ~m n collar or cutrclearl)

dccbre' the pcrpcn·amr·~ lack uf ~JYoir t:1ire. t\~ in
nll'ht martcr:. . t>f mak· dl-coration. Icy,," u..,ualhJ morL'.
I or th<.· ~htn lll\)llO~FJI11
... to create a rouch
of cla' . lcrrcrin~ 'n lc shl'uld bt· simple and ~mall.
'- I

m.!l l.trgor tlr:111 1 ·• inch high. ~ [oq m~mogr~l111.'­

shmlld be itunte\.1 ~tbmrt +inches to the kJr t)f rhe
hin pl.Kh:t'" ccnrut: I(tilL' ~hin h1.1s .1 pockcr. ini ~
rial'i are u ua11} ccmcrcd on it or P{'!'iriLmL'd in rhe
middle of It upper \\ elt. ~fi..)p-dm\\ cr initialing is
Jonc D) hand. \\ ith rht: lt~nep; ~urnetimrs puncru ~
:ned b} tm) periods. Bccau<ie llf the marking\
dimmutJ\C scale. it' frequc.ntl} C(Hltr~l!"Lcd in ciLhl·r
a darker hJde or a different cuklr fn 1111 the .-.hin
ing If the fabric j, lilllC\.
J
the monoC't
.."'mtn li)'>U:llhI
t'cfJOc 011l' of j l" O)lllp011Cllt rdlor~ . ._ l)J11(' 111eTI
hme cl t:nt•rtlc? (Oior•. uch .b 0L'old or purFJ!t: • which
c.;ene" to ddincate their p~r,onal ~rylc.
1} ronc 1\J\\ ~r\ monogram j, .,o !llllllltC

( ugge't111g 11 s handm~1Je origin) a.;.; tn beconte a

point of cuno~it) It-; appcanmcc rellcCls t:hc [ng
.
h hand \rncriGm pre'-irlcction for the rnon~ con
picuou!' pocket pl:lccmcm .•1bout 9 inches do'' n
from the neck point. \ltern.niH~I): thl· rurupcnn
mans escutcheon c~pou:\"~ hi~ penchant fur disci

~------ ------------------- - ~--------~-----·- -

 -- ----
plincd undcr~tatCJih.~nr Uroppcd JU"l bdo'' rht: d1rt:n line t,f ,i,.ion the munogrmn' ln\h'Lllu
mdr w,unll~ nppt\1 r rough I} 14 inche-. from hs~ n~ck point or -l lll ) mchc~ .tbm c t ht n·ou l r'
"·"~'ditll" (If the· two .tddrcsst'" rhi IClcalt.' '" def1nitch tht.' more ~ubtic 1f not\ luc
•
\\ hen the Com int.'nt.:JI '' ~1r:-. lu:- mgle brea"teJ j.J.ckcr unbuttonc:d. a \\ ai'l ll·h:l dlll1
C(llllllJl:"tlCl'' bc·nn•en rlw coar\ open fronts and lht.' nt.'d..Lit:\ end~ Tht: nl'cktlt: · unf&?tlL"rl·d blad~,:
in rh} t h m "it h the n1.1n \. g.ti l. t:lll .tcro:-:' till ,birr' from permitting 11Pdung mor:L' lhJn 4bUl1Jl\Oil
oi monogr.mt tn peak through. \~ tthmu supc:rfluou!\ distrJCllon .... rhe..c ~mallurdw:-.lr.ut lJh t.JI~t.:
on .t s'• rllbnli'lll ~tiJ their tm 11•

DR~S'{,'\t.i
Tlw rngli~h ~tn:-to\.4 rnq lm~ kmg
nH ,\L., :-.: <h:kno" IL"dgcd ih hercLliraq ~train ttl. cC('l.'ll
tri~..-i t'\. rr. .·d \~tai r~ hoLm~)bb~d \\ it.h ent)ugh
~

of these '.1ll't -trained bd..; m L)bsen e such

form 1-ir,th:md.
. ( -.....:. ... ~me·., initials on
')uarrcring
the ,Jtirr\ t1UtL'r :-l~e\e j, ~ithcr ~1 cu,tom
pL'l-uli.tr ro slh)\\ biz l') pt.'~ or nnorher nfTecm

Lion of rhe pn\ ik:g\.:J \\ irh mo much ume on

d1c1r band'. \\ hcrhcr such ~wank .. ma("b
mon.~ l,f the titled rhan rhc Lht::uric.al. nnc-
t hmg'-' i:-; lor sur~: h:1llmarking l'nc·s ,hirt .·deL'\ c
011 it" upp~.·r lore:1nn ccl't:.unh rcinfon:c-. it"
bcsp\'kt· ~,tll\Cnancc. a propllsiti~_)n nut likd)
O\'Crlt.lclkt·d b,·' tho,t: :'O inclined.

~-- -- ---

- -
 Iu tmd I
..(n1m t t em r
 impbc.1ble re... i:-tance to dcmh b) 1-:.... hinn deaec maJ\? nl:cb,~arfact·!'i Jh m '"' Mnou d1.1llL·ngl:
tn dmc. \\ hile the w~.1rkplacc has tradn•onall~ b~..:cn the m~cktit:·~ for:t:mm•t ba!'.tJun n-. r.tp 1d
~a~u.lhzatil'll i~ handing d1is l(.>rnk'r ndjunCl uf rn.t1t• dcgancc ib pink lip in\ nmg ~m. numbl·r
of les' throat ·COil.'ll"aini ng altt•rn:Hi\t~ lO appl} t:u· the job !t is incrca'111gh ~mnmun l 1 \tlt
mcntn po,nion~ of:tullh'nq \\ithmu a ned tie lu "umeofficcem&ronmenh thl! ban." nt.cted
cxe~.·utl\ c l1:1-. ben, me the~) mho! l,f., llC\\ maJtagemL'111 -.t~ le
l11 .111 ironi(' l\\ isr~ 1he nc.•ckul'·~ longtmw ptlllCLWr l:l'irpor:nt.> confonwq ma} no\\ bl:
ib uhimatc- undoing \\'hethcr rhi~ hHC'-t Jip in t:henccbic\ f(u·wne~ \\ill pcnnancmh .ther n'
DRE5.SI1\ G de~llll\ I.' h.~rcl to ~:t). \V1dtuttt the tailurL'd lll11fonn to 111onopolt:r..e 1he cnrpor.n~ bnd c:.1pe . tlH!
Tllf. hi~~
nt•rktit'·~ rL"'k illl'Untempumrr lllL''n·s l~1slli~•n v.ill certainf) change h'nppc.Jr.ann·\\Jllmorc
dl:tlll'\\.'r'-lguif) rhc w~aJ\.·r·... dl·,ir\? 10 e1nbr.tcc .1 drt?-.-.lt.?r. mm~c .mrbonratl\c.: imJg-t 1\.:rltJP"Ill
time. man 111:1) C('111C tu regard the 11cckLie as pn.,of uf hi' mdh idu::Ilil). ~~..nm.•thing. that 'itt'- hrm
.1 p:1 rr fro 111 t h(' l.'fl m d.

CRA\IATOLOGY

-...,_, inct:' :1 ncckric· :-h. .)lJid be •1grcc.:abl~ n' the t•lllch , ..:ilk i~ und~.:·niabl~ lhl' fabnc of dmict:
Jdc;1lly. rl1l' l~lCI'ilc qu:·tlities o( :1 (jlll' silk rie shtlllk~ prlkillce a SCU'i:Uion nlll unllltt dun u( ,jIll
The term that th\? indw. tn u.;c~ ro dc~ign~1rc a h1bric\ \\cigh1. lc.~xmrc and lt.·cl '' i:&llled u. .
··baud·· l:l'lllllll'scur~ apprcci:u~.."' a b~..~.unifullwnd
The 11ccknc'~ mori( llr pan ern. expr~..·,~e" rlw p~..,erq . rhl:· !\~n~e o(" him~\. tlw P"' dml
0"' of rite indiYidual \\L'ar~.·r Dcs1gn mor.il... (,lll~d cr:l\arol<>i-1: began tt.l floun.;h in tlw fl)3<.)
~ L

pl\n.1 great j~,..,,gn t!w1ili~s dh id~.· rhc pauerned nt.>ckrie. kingdwu· ~arn d}e \\0\l..'O' and pnm'
1n d1~:' c;;.1 s~.· L,f the II r"t. the jacquard loom "~...·:1\l'~ di fTc rent color rh read, direnh into t hl' f'Jbnc.
'' hile in tit~. '-L'Cond. col~.1rcd p:.nrcrns :1rc prime~.! dire(tl} onro ra'' <'I' d) ed ,il]~

\\l O\l EN N ECl(\\lEt\R

u!'e 1r alh.m s t~'r highl) LleruiiL'd motif~" hilc l'I'P\ tding an lllC\Hnp.u·able nchnv.. , '-1f
hand. thl' ,, 0 , L'll ~ilk til1 b I'L'\!,~1rdcd :1~ the nc pJu~ ultra of male plumage. The" ~.a' mg pnK"<-....,,
temper~ :.1 eulur\ inn3tt" brill~atKl~ b~ illl"llrporatmg ir into ~l cmnplt!" ...uri:ltL' HHt.'rtl~.,ng. m.tl
ing 1h: """'Hm t·l 'll r 1n •11n nJ t I w cj n.:·~-.tc"t
• e ""'en'
o ,- :1 II llCL·k·til• ' ' Jk ' · \Jtll')tt'll
.. l
rc•'fL''C'nt
r a ...null
pt=rct:nt!lge of rhe tot-al nL"ckwear produ(cd t':lt:"h ~ c:1 r. rhe} h<I\ c returned w t:.var .tlong n id1
""
hand rmforcd dC\rha and bcm.-]1-crafrcd foon\ car.
llcre·. a cia ,j, examplt:> of hon Engl:md came ro -.er rhe ~randard in imernarional
men '£1 k fnr tht:> better p~1n ofrhc rwcnticth c<.'lltUr). ThL' i\lacck·,:fidd ntxkrie. a ~ilk group of
parrcm' m.1dc from 'mall '' c~' e~ of dimnon~h . .;quare... and cirdc.:-. bL~amc e.:'pcciall) fashion
able among ~
\\Cil drl.~,,cJ Briri"'h men in rhc carhI lli.!O~
~
The~e 'mall ~,~comL'tric!' \\Crc fir.,.t
m.1dc in contra~ I ~ • t:lL'~ of gra\: black and white. £,1\'ing a marot.h.:'fr)r efFect acn."""'' rhc :-urtncc
&,.; • .... ""' ...,

tlfthe tiC The} \\ere the 'Pt·cialf) uf dw texrile wemt~r~ frnm ~ lacde.,fidd.a :-;mall town in l.an
Gl hire. nonln\Qt En~land.
...., N £CJ.:.n
\mung the· '' orhfs _,anorjaJ literati. rhe ;\.lacdt. ,fidd lk'ckrle conri nuc.l' w en jo) i r~
long,[.mdin{! repur:ttion a:' the quinrcsscncc of upper d.N, Engli~h ar'tL Par'-·ntht.•ricall~. it i:- 1he
onh gc11re of rradmonal neck\\ ear
~
to rcmin ir, ori\.•inal mctanhorical
~ i
iruaaen. Referred to a~ a
i:t~

---~
 - --
\\\...Jdm~ uc-" 111 n~rram eire!~-. tht' . . jJ\t'l"\ nr..:kti~ b~:.--g•m ib 'cncr.1bk ctrL't'l. a~ d1c llbligawr)
l
I

lc.mg ttl' t"l,r l~mnal dJ} attirt•. meaning \\C~.idill~' ~md mlwr da) Liml' ~clcbratitm,, \' \llltrt ltmn~c
d lth\;-, b<:1!~Ul w obnt it" (Onmam. thl' dn.•.:-s\ ~l.tcdc~(icld lhYktil.' l~,und 11, t•lnc sen icc~
r • ~

bnJ.tdtnto include the ~mbclli-.lunem ._)fl>rhcr lc,, l~'rnlal~.·ns~.·mblcs

r rom ro) aln w rodt.·o. here·-=- a pictori.1l !Jistoin· (tlflJltlSilt', bdt tl'. uud 011 rl~t')olloll'illg P''S.c) t..l (
1

thl \I.Kdc,fldd'. fi"•C ro ...anorial 'tardom. bl·ginning "ith rhc lbn'll "\.in,la!'l de l ~l11ubcrg.
IO(ll·l.tltt~. \nrl1llll\ nrt•xcl Blddll\ and I k'll) \\l1lld' 1\.nbcn \hmLgomcry ~111d l ~an { .lll)Pl.'l'.
\\ lulc dtt'rl' .1rc :t lll} riad of", 'h'll neck ttl p.H t~.·rn:-. l)nh a hath.~ (ul h.n c \H~n t 1111l'
lwnor~.:d pl.l~c!' of corrcctJic. . s aalll J(leni\Jn i11 the gcntl~.'mJn·s \\,lrdrt..,b~. l)I1L' tJr the mo.st N .I:'C:k WF.t\R

ft'rlLi\\llCd ... the "nitill-.fidd

.. til'. )'Ut anmhl'r ((.lJlll'lhllrlun or rngland.;; kgcnd;1!'\' Bond '-' trccl
c \.. ,J

"n lc tn pcrm.111L'Ilt tJ~rk\\(•:tr Ct...;hj,111 R1'111g tn prl111litll.'ll(Y bc,h.:ic tr" sth er \Ltcdc~ric l d con
fr~..·rc m rhc t9~0". thi~ \\O\en ne~kri~..· \\;1:-. al,o n~1mcJ I~H· the to\\ n th.u prl>duccd 1~. \pnab·
iadd on Lhc outskans of LundPn.
llw ""pHal,fldd d~.:·•ign L•rigin;III) dt-.wtgui:.hcd ll"L I( (rom the- \ LKclcs(rcld by irs
.;li~l.d} Cm~..·i r ::md Llrgt.•r rnuti[,. which \\l'rc .trrattgL·d in ~tlkncr "t.'tungs
., 'L.- c_. L
t'r t\Vl' . thrL'l'~. or
tour ~Oillr ('Ptllbm,Hillll!\_ This more \('f'\:Hil~..· l} pc l)f silk tlC\tgn (l.111Sllllltl''\ the backb<.'lll' l}r

Hntam' htgh ciJ. \\ll\CJ1 ncck\\car 0:o l~)ngcr made cxclu~iH·I) in rht' 'mall l.nndon rnwn.
\\ ..l\C'll ncd.tJc5 of tit.: pii~I~Jicld L] p~.· ,, rt' tld\\ m:11lltt:Kwrcd all 1n·cr the wn1ld

·--- --
 THIS PAGE

Gr1ry Coopu drt•ssing up d 5port jtrckrt

\l'tl /J t1 J\ I acdt'~/irfJ ITt'Ckt it•.

OPPOSITE ·
Ca'1' <;,·clmt-rosst•d al,lltltm Jo\1'11 slurt
wit II ti dttllblt• l,n·,t~tcd .suit i111~I a
Spital~(;c/J nL'rkt it·.
 llcr..: I >eau \chc son rL·h\: un the firm lund "' lu" i.ltl r1\. h d
tab l·ollar 111 dm\ npl.l\ hi, -.agging ll~d..ltth..· \d11Jt. the r1J ., 111c, 0 f111.,
'-pit:~J,fldd nccktw pl.t) ~up hi d1plom:urc urb:uun

l~H E REG IMENTAL CANARD Bnthh Ln dl'rJ\,llt 11 rt ,1

......
llll'Jll.tl stripL's h.I\c been contn1u lll'-1) u. .ed 111 tiC Jt.•,ign '-IIKt: rhe
I '},2( ·~ Hd(xe rill' d.n .. ur lllll\ (·r-,~d I h.lkl all Hmi~.h fL'g.unem lnJ n
C( ,Jc)r ,._-h,•mt.• uf t heu· ')\\ n. 'L'CJI Jt ll "i nm~t l\ pt ·al1n dlt: mt "'" l·trktt , (
rhi'· c11Til·l!r:-.
I ngl ish rt.'gi Ill Pill~" ore ('J"~\ .H~ Lll'conned ''It h "itTI p :'1 nH hur
r~..:·gii iiL'IH:ll ct•lm·'· Tl11~ g.JH' ri'L' h \\h,ll 1~ kncJ\\11 .Js the rcgmlcntal
•
l iL'. \d lith rl'.1 I UJ'e:. (t ,Jurt.•d ~tripL''i 011 thl' di.lgon.tl ,) ~~ .ltUfi.! Ul L p.u

Dtcm Achrsonu·c:,lriu..~ a
ble from gn ,, . . h uni r\11'111 de ...ign. Xftl!l" r~,.~tunllllg n l CJ\Ihnn ld~ l~nll h
Spiral~flt·ld IJ'J'e '"·ckt;t'. men "ore tlw tiC'-. of l bei r iormer r~giml."nt .•md (rt."quemh no orhct
( "\nc pnim nf long "ilJnJmg (()Jlh:.'lltl('IJl ben\ n'll bbdc, fr,,m
the uther . . ide of tiJt• herring pond \\a" lhe culnlllst-. .tlltl!cd -.,trhH1 tl
\ inlnt inn o( ha\ ing 1hLir :-;rripc.... rllll COU ilh'l' ll) dm~l' of the king· men roil(')\\ mg b~lth 1w•h.lr1Lc I
PfL'(C'dCflt .111d tic_q hL•fiC logit, rngJj~~~ til• \ll'ipl':-. f~11l from ltf1,houldc-rdt.l\\1l i0\\3rd the nglrt \lJC
·1hi' dir\.Yti. . liiCPirKidcd" it h dll." male jad-\ct\ tr.1~..ii ri' nallct"r ou·r right t;,~reniug (thu .. pr'-'\L m
in~
'-'
the coat'" fronr fnnn imu·J~ring.... \\itll :1 ~oldicr'.., utl!--beathin~(·fhio;
... '"l1rJ from hn.ldt rdl)
()nc lllllldr...·d \ t'jfS
i
t1\.Jl),
ft
when l),·onk ... Hrnlhl'r~ rlr ... t intmducn:l rhL· LngH
'-
. .h rc-~nncm.tl
0
lk' H'l

the ~tAll!.:.'~. in dd~ n:·nc~~ l l l the nri~in:1l-.. tlJl') hnd theirs (lll i11thc opp\>,ire dll't.'Cllt'n (lu~h ught h

l<m left). App;ltvntl)~ Fngli•dlllll'll

bclnnuin~
b "-
l L' n·ruin Brit ish rq~i-
\.-

lll('Jlll\ g~..)t \ C'T}

their prcciou:--
lll::ch or I\ mcric:ll1 tllUri~rs. II ere j,
I . R ·Ti·iplcr\ pb) on '' l1rd~ m l? r the
''t\meri...-:lll \\ '~t} ··\,(it~ ~tripe...

. \t (lllds \\llh the prt'\:Jil

1ng. tastt;' l't 'r "hi IllS) . dn.''IL qri pt;•d
Jll'd. \\CUI' h.lLl bent l)ll1 n( r-:1\-lH. 1: ll"
• t'Hlll'' rime I lu"~' cr. :1~ a rc~uli
ni ltal)\ tit: designt·rs lotl"t~lling
~ ~
Famous Stripes ... in the. ~1mtricatJ !Pa;'
up Brit:111ni~1\ C\1 1l\L""I11Hlll:ll ~inpt• TJr~ umtJUi1lly smarl duipu am! a(htDI colM comMrr41t'"'! if
1hr Engltth srJuxsl1ir.s1 a:lid ''O.m Bovs," rrrrwnlun t~par'al.'y
.trmngcmcllh .llld cokw tllmhiu.l jorTIUPLF.ll.. Ami in All~ilk "I'P· f'n-~ Jr:zm!iom~TGT.re
of fJIIUrns fur bme, grry tl1" lrrOr:m .tuitt. T/:11 Jl<ll rt:n•l rni.ll-
11011" •qripc.J Jll'd.\\c;tr j, in a rcn thrJ mY lopsjor thai pjt. bt T&Jr&.EJt mAkr .rour stl~rltcrrr
Wml f'OLD£0 .Sll.X TlUOUQHOUT, J...-~5 £.1-Im
:11 l.,;lJlCC I)....::-.igner
.....
r tlcl~111 l) B:uher.1 W~ onfCJ'lfli by maiJ•raa: C'C!kn of IIWU. EuJr •kctlOU &U...a.blc

(ptigt" 1-JS) could h:l\ c dw,cn .lll} JiRTRrPI]R & ]]

t\ pt• (lr nccktll' fc.11' thi-. nllrl1t, bw
l.. ---- ---- ---
-
-- 1

h.: tlptL'•d ti)r a 'tnpc l)n~ \umld be h:.1r~.t- pr~.·:-)cd tl' fiud
.111} thmg r~~uncml·d d~ri' a[i\ c or prcdinabk· J.bnttt ll'

J~-.tgn \\lud1 j.,. prob.tbl) \\h) bt: ch~..bl! j; "·'It' the pn1p..:r
dm.:crmn uflu . . uipc .... lugb
... lcti ro lm' right.
._

\norhcr rca.,on t'Or thl' 'tripe\ h.Ibitu.tl prr.:>cncr

under rht: bcncr .1rrmcd
•
ch.in j..; il~ diagom1l
<-
d\ n.lllliC" The
I

b 'd' al o \\I.Jrk.' to .:-lim it. In

' .. .triphl necktie\;
sman d~~l.'r undcr..tanJ, d~1tam lim• that angk•!\
th~·
~Kro"' th~
(:l!'-1.', 1t~
l~blrquc parrcm m.tgic4tllr chisel~·'" ~1) brL'.l~.irh ~111d snftllL'"'
r·n. m tht• [JCe•• m .1...ham.1gl' much priz~.·d br it:\ d~.·, ntccs
I her~.:.;!' ~murher cumpdling illu"lr:Hit'n ,~r "In
men l)r lofikr . .ocial plarr-.ut...; rend w lean wward the
'trtpc ir!' mEuuarmg '"agger Bd<n\: fdm :tct,)l' I~eginakl
ltardin~.:.~r cmpk'~) hi~ . . tripe tu pwKtll!H~.: hi..; C;\pan:-c ,)1-
biUt: sen~~
0
\\hale cJch of ir..) fortY fi, e degrees rcinl~m:cs
l ~

rhc fhagon~tl !I.} mmctq (,f hL' double -brca,tcd ~ui r. Hl)l )k
t:ndmg"'- \\ iK· Bcnn.1 on the left. Rl)Jlald ~~o lem:tn '-'lll'agc.s
0 L
STRIPED NECKTIES CHISEL
I

thl' br,.lad repeat of hi' n.ccktic· . . rripc ro harmonize with

AWAY BREADTH AND SOFTNESS
FROM THE FACE. J
1

ht" -.;port Jacket'.... O\Cr~izLxl pbid. 1..------

- ----
 - -
-rl t E p LA 1 D ~r1 E \\ 'h~th~r pt·int~d tif wo\~11 \ilk ur
\\lllJI. t hL' pl.1id nt"·ckrie ha. . :1l \\ ar~
•
attmned r he traditional
i"t b, 'irtue o(it!' rkh "cutu,Ja heritage ~I ill' fir~• plaid tie~
\\\.'1"(' mndl· L)r \\ r•ol. b~L'HU'L' t)f tbl· lllOll r\ :l"'I{)Cl:ldon "11 h

l.lrt.lll kilt.-. 1lo\\ CH·r. l he mu hemic J I ighland plaid~ "t:rc

g~ntrillcd inro dre~,j~r ~ilk \'t'I'Sit)ll\ r\)J' 10\\11 \\CHI' \~ ·hnt
dbt1ngui~llt'~ the pbid frum11thcr &tt.!doie mottl-., 1s i1 mul
lil.l)L't'cd bl'~l1k~ dt..·':'lign. "hich crcml·.'\ 1hc illu ion of
DRhSI~G ~iillll'n~iniL \\'lwn m:11cd \\ irh :1 :-rripc• nr· ~1 ditTm\'nt :'!Calc
1Hf 1\I!\N
dwd... the pbid\ \.kpdl or ril·ld jll'l'h.ltlccs :1 ri~."h alld
ntt.\JlCl'd 11~11 tin\?ss. I lc'TL:. a 111;111 "h~_..l kll\.1\\' ho\\ II• Jlli:lkc n
:-oli~.l .suil .ln~l ~.lrL·~s shin JflPL'ar k·~s plain. jlqwcr':- lugh
com r:t~tcol(')l"t'd lll'cktic abP :-;a\ rs his\)\\ n st r0ng ((llllplex-
inn (dnrk hair nnd lighL -:kin) frl'lll nppc:tring le s ~o.

SOLID NECK\YEAR Thi~ ne~t :-tatcmcm might

"l'l'lll :-.omc" har t.lf an L1Xrnwmn. hllt t ht..: 111orc sc)phisticm~d
a man\ t~l"LC.S in Llnrhe< the mnn.' "ol1d 11cckrie.' he's likcl} Lu

d\\ 11 like the lltxcdo' chic which depends llll only two cui~
ors. the ~~)lid necktie h.:.'cotnL'!- 'Inu:1lly tndispl'nsabk· i( llllC
1~1\C'I"S rlw quiL~t ::tsJ-ctth·ctlL'S:s ~>I the ~impk t'\l) · tun~ kir
(~ec Dnugi:Js T:1irh~1nk.s and ( rl~lnni 1\gndli. ch~lptL'r 1. .. Per-
m:mL'lll F:1shiun."') l;enrgc I ra.siL'r. esquire':, l;t,hion pundit
cx:traor~linairc. had~ pcr~tmalln,cal"f:lil'\\ith thL'~olid bi.Kk
...~rcnadlnc necktie. ::ts di,J l~1rmcr Banw\ ' '\.t'\\ York\'" ner.
rrc\.{ PrL·~~man. ~~")ll(OLJid mah· boPk l\11 Prt!~'man slwwing
unt il1lllll' of hi~ cla . . sic ._grJv llanncl c'r r.111 ~~1bardirw en em
J \.

blcs aco1111p~mi~d by his L~Ycr pr~,.·,cm bl~h.·k grcn:tdme lour

i11 -hand pinned just ~o askC\\ intn lw• blue drL''·' . . hirt . The
perenJJiall) suign.: cntcrwint;r 1\ubhr Sht)t'l uw11~ !l collcc~
tin11 of ~di~.:.l n~l\\ and Stllrd black 1~111(\ ''men .silk.: th~1r
' '
tllldl'!Ubtt'dh niiUHJmhcr thnt-t.' n( P0rtt.:r
•
lrcr.sln' ttl. and
Ulingrun n'rnbincd.
The ~crond ratinnalc l~>r a \\':lrdrwhc: rcpl('fl' "it h inTl:'fC!>tjng ...olrd nc..>d.me.tr 1.!' thL p&~l
tl'l'll prt..:rog:Jt ih' .\~ thl'" ·ai'ici0nadt' .l~(Cilds the p.HLern lln -paut·rn :-rairGl'l'. rhc :-olr~~ nt.>cktll:
oftt..:n becomes IJi, bcq rriend St,mctJtll' ~'n(r farctinu~h Jc,cribed dw 1\riu,h 3ppr:o.Kh w
'
d~,..·("l)f ,1, that \\hicb L~mplcl}t>d the brgcq IIUJllbCr of (('lllll'~ \\ithotll dJ..,hlllg ) llf thn t'
lllfllf'

men inclined tL' push rite p:utrrn cmell'pc. the 't)lrd tic ba~ ,3\l·d m:~m a llL~cl. from ll\l;J h
ambi 1iou" del·{ >r~ll il m.

-~-
 ,
....---------------1
\\ 0 Q L t 1EC K \V EA R The- ll.tli.IIJ:- h:n l.' i mere' d 11~ "t' lc
k.1nn.t l mpll\H~rcd Ln their de...;ign 'tnuo,ir~. "irh ClllC lmnd
t ht.:\ m.111~1gcd tn mundarc rlw rie \\(\tring world in a ~ca ot"
~ ~

mtrll..,lH' prim... \\ InI~ \\ l[h t hl.· •Jrlwr dw~ m:ln.l~~.·d l\' prol.lth.·c
CJhJUgh h1gh d.l'- tWCktics to kc0p frlllll drO\\ 11i11~ ill dH.•ir (l\\ 11
C\.lOlllll.'J'(I.tlcftlm nun lk,"~J. ., \.':o-~.·uing rhc ..:trip~.:· (r'-'111 ~..·l·rt.1in
l'~nn~~tftlJl rhl'~ ~..m aha be lTl:''-htL·d '' ith till' ~l) li'h m.tk\ cur-
rent JpprlYI.ltlon of lu~uq \h.: llncckwl.·ar
I \lrtun.nch t~1r rbc. oubidc ''odd.
~
L':Kh ol-lt:th \ Lltic"

e..nnt.tHl" pod...et, of so(i.llly pr{'minl.'nt. q} lt· .....1\'\) bu'ii lll'':-.llll'Jt

,, ho h<~pp~'' w be p.t.. ._,ion.trc .1bou1 app.tl\'1 L,r L:xccptinnal qual-
It\ .md undt·rqmcd r:a..:tc. \\t.!rc ir nul I~H· this ~.liscrimin~tting

(.·gment
.. in tht" h.11i.m men·" ma rkl.'t. ma m . 1hHl I tal i:111 men
\Hntld not bl· pri' ~ to ,ud1 rar~fieJ ra,rt• and \\ carablc:-..
otto be confu,ed "irh rhe im.~'pctt-.:1\ I? '' Olll countr)
llL'(kllL' of I ngh"h
~
nntorict"'-.
"J
tlw; i:- ,1 tmalh I
~.li(ferent animal.
I tmd "~" n in lllt'l p -r~cnt wor:-tcd (,bhmcn.· or blends of (,,,h
ntt:l'l.' aud ,,lk. clw. sm:tll knortin~ ""inuou:- "rrif-, uf L.Ktik ddight
~ ~

rtlJt:(r~ JtllHhcr ht}Cf of re.xtur~d ridlltL''' intri th(' fl~ti1J11:1 :-~uit cJr luxLtr~ 'port j~KkeLl'llSl'Jllble.
I k·rl· \H·It:nc the embodiment of ltaliJn brio. l~inttlli i\gndl1 '' ho like'i hi~ hcrnngbotle wPol
~ ~

tie -.n much th.ll IH.: \\e.u·..: it O\L'r lti~ c.1-..hmL'rc ~"cater. Lllllks perfectly kosher rn me.
I ong .111 .td\·c,carc on thi:- !'ide <.,( thL' t\tl:mt ic lclr tlu' (t)Gl -" eathcr ned, rq~:1l i~1. t hl' L

1.1 r flO\\ undcr~tanJ, the wool tic\ tc..\Lural GKhct :1:- well as it$ change of...;ilkcn pace
 -- - -
l) I~ I NTE D N E~C K\\'EJ\R

l' rm.t printed Clhrk' anuall) 'ihl)\\Cd up :ll't~und man\ throat t1l tht." form off 1m1Jl
"ilk muflkrs '-llllJ•~rim~ in rhe latl' nitlL'tt'~.:'IHh cenruq II \Ul-..n't un11t th . . e~rl~ llJlrJ.., that thl'
fir,! gf'oJllCtric ~.:k•qgn::. pnntt>d •)Jl :1 pure> sill,. £:\\ jJI bl.!gnu to 111:1ke the rllUlld'\ of the '--ultur<;\
mor~ fn~hton.tbiL' n0lk~. l"rnm tberL'. tlw tr.111:,iti11n to ned.ttc~"\\,ts almo.t automatK If\ mk
DRl:SS l'i\',;
''hat limited Inn·· (c.•nn;ll iH· ~ ~.~al'l'\, the st:unped l1f;lpplt~d method uf making p.m(:·rnu.i dmh
HH M -1 ~ "ns ··unsid~.:"'rt·cl 111 fcrinr rP pL"nn~men tl) "em. ing rilL~ tk·~jgn dirc~d~ i 11 U.l t h~· cl~th " ~lli{tct:
Bc-c.lbl'-c 1r ts le~' '-'xpett~he t't' prt)llu~c th~m thl" wt.:,\·~n nnd em accPmmpJan.: decorn
ti\l~ rno11f, c•f C\cry \.-uJlC"ei,abJ~ ,.ui. .·t). pnm ~1rd~.l!t'S ar\! rhe brge.;r-~L·lltng cattg~..'l! ll( m!c.k
\h'ar P.} tht ltJ(,rJ:-.. rlw f'-'P('fl nf printl'd "iilb 11' tile \a ·t .\menG1n markt.:t uni~.J:-htd a
\ eri tnbll.." e~plo..;inn in thL~ qu:mti n at~d dn cr'tt} n( f.'lbric design~. '' hJCh u1 turn prumpr.. d fi1r
thl"r 111 11li\Olt j, lll~ in rhc produft iou ptucr:-s.
In rhc cighrit?~. comput~r~driH~n tcduh;Jiog) prcs\!m~d rlh.• prim de'-Jgrwr \\Hh a \11

rual bl.mk l"am .1 ... on'\ hich he n•tdd 1\.'corcl and iu,tanr.:meousl} reproduL"c m1~ or nil r:r~.JU\l
impul'c". \Vh~tht?r i-n the name of \\l!nrablc an ~nteJTainmcm. ur \11npJc ~hod, thr lll't rt: Ulh
\\:l' Lh:lt ;li-ter p,,,o de;.;adt~!" of m·ckues as comer
_,,lJ iun shHTl't''. rht· pnnu;d Jh.'tktit und\!rmmcd
it!'df :h ~m..tdjmKt of mule dcg:l.Jh·~ \\ hde dc:bJ,
... t !Jt.> ll~~bH~<lr taste of ~111
i 11g C'Jlttn.; cult lll'l.: f m·
tl!l' mO!TlC'Ilt. :--hould ,1 man \\.am n"') :tcqu•r~ .1

neL·bic "ith ~ r·c l'-onablc prob.1bilit~ of ue then'

I( Hl''C''
t::'
in. rhe" m t'O de1-ign tie \H,uJJ gcul't aJh bl.'
I '" '-

[he ~:1fer bt•t.

That ~aid . .tlwrt• .1r,• ~nil :1 'h~hh of (igu
nn ih' mnti fc; and gt"'llfe~ ut print ttt.: rh.u t r4m
:-~..·ctll..~
tlw 'Ltgarie~
....
of fa.lmm Ltkc 1h • ''til cut
gra) tlmnl·l ~uiL tbc,\..~ 1w..:ku~. rct~in thc.:·tr-.n lr h~
m·~- b, \ inue o( rbeir 1nl\11lrt.•..,l:.ctble g~.u d l.t,h!
•

C H.-\ R VET pRINT S \\ tth rht" ;tfHliL:ill m

t bt.• 1q ].1.'b Lmd tq ~l. b ~pendmg more Jnd moll rime
\ m ul'.H ion. rc~orr dn.: sing l}(.,Y.unc .1 prml.1pal
Sl.'lli'Cl' l'~f f:t~hwiJl in:'pimnnn. l11.:r \\ eah h' I ur\.1
p,·:m cmbra~ed .1 '1Jmmct) lol1long ric t"(IJl(t::lh"C! h\
rht' Em1ou-. P..u·i.::i.m ,Iurr and cr.1' .u makt:r Chan N
l"hi' li\'IH .1nd bn"c:A. ncc.knt· fc.uurcd Jlll'rtl:. th.u
~

fX'I"f~· ....tl' c.1pmrcd lhL' holid.t\ mood ,,f n t!ll\lrtlll'

~ -- --------
 \kan\\hile in the !arc l\\\_~ntiL''· tht: "hir'-· ~UIIll11Cr 'llil began
""
111 g<llll <KL·t•nt.lni.'G i11
, r
J'Jim Ht•a'-·h and around 'c\Cr.ll \m~ri(J.Il unin.!r'itiL'~. -, h~ ncull':tl roncd "till d~..·matHieLI "Oilk'

,trongcunrrast .md hke their lurup~au~..·.,mnt"·rr:llh ,m:ut \mcrkan~ tl)t'k w dw t:hancr tic
l1h· Jm:b ro \\,ttt:r. \ltln'llgh till' 1:1,hion~tbk· 111an ...geucr.tllr' <1\'('l"lcd bold Jh.'Ck\\L"ar. thi~"- L''L~r)
'-'

non [CI rht ru .:. Jed the PJ\l'lr or th '"''- \\ dl drc"'L'd 'tKicn lllL'I1 \\ hl'"l t'rd in:tril) held tkl:->L'I) hl
.. mall.md con,cn d[l\ ~ ~11~cb in t hell· Jh:Ck\\ ('~1 r. I r:- ..:.-h K \\ ~1~ 111 their ll n ru'>S\ m lllChal.m [ bt:ann~
...
fo rh.~ Jdt..!ht
'
of rhctr m.1m .tdmtrt r~. the "-:11:11'\l..'r:-; L'n~'
r
ll o.;ettin~~
'-
t:Kdn.ucd blcnd111~'- "it.h ;111
kmd.., off'Jnt"\ 'uiL'. frl m ht1Uilli'r u.. 1rlh tP 'trine:-..
r tll f1bJl!, nfi!lml)~t ~1m* '1/L' \ll' dt•,tgn
'-
The l)rig-
._

trJ.lll.luner pnnt' bt•c:tmcthe tlr:-ot and rcgrt'tmbl~· almnst rhe !.1 .... 1 buld- ftgurcd ntxktit· ll.l')l11 N I ( K WT.-\

[,till:~ upper da:'l' r.t~h:: \\ ith rhc t':\Ct'plilHt l,f [mi lio Pqcci'o.; l.1rge alJ tWer p1·i111 tic' in rhc
ftJ)\.'' elected llcnne' ~c..:~rf ri~,·,. :111d thl' ,>dd R~tlph Lauren :md l.;arn..:.-k \ndcrs\lll ncckric
prmt (n\o oi" \mct'tl:i:-. bc~r punC}Llr~ l,( the p.lst). tilL' prc...'Pt'IJder.mcc nl" l~1rgc· figured prim
ncdare' cmrld prubabl} be termed lll\t:o;~ r~Hht.:r rh~n nJcc

RI1dh) pcrsoualir)' tllld wmt·~iillu Fn·d 1\llm

hosr i~rg l17cjimwus Amos ii ·A ml}' ttmm.
Up to thdr 11t'Ck in chan't'1S, tlzt:S(' bry~ kllc.'ll'
lww tc>l'JIIt'rlaiu millions •rith wit mrd imdli{!nlcr
.. •
words that cmtlcl ctptly dt'.suibr thdr llt'Ckll'ctlr
--
TilE PAJ..,l£1
lr7lt1on .md It' .L''oci:ujon '' trh rugli~h t.l:-tc, p;u:-k·) l'lliO}' .1 'F'L'ri:1J stalll'
111 the ,,orld of malt~ lll'chH•·Jr. In hi:-. (l>llll"l'l\L'r:;i~ll :-cYcllt'il.·~ bt"1~)k Prc,::.f~w
.'ll;t',~-'· "-'<.:'' ) ork im:1g~ (On,ul rant Itlim \ loll0' t.lpi 111.'d 1h.n t:t..'nain lll'lk

lll' h.11..1 rhar .. h' I cngtK' ca-..-hl'r:· bcc.u thL'' 'h.!llificlt ~l t'-..1 breeding ~1nd
'L

l,"dUCHIILlll { )f J11 tht:• k)ttd lk'Ckrie.'. he d<.:'l'l11l'1.1 r',IJ'k'\ tilt" lllll} pcrml''lblc

nne bcc~u:~l.' It \\,b the .. li.mlic.. ut rhc uppt•r llliddlc d l''l'" I'rcud thought'

d1ar J p.u lc} p.1ncrncd ric'} mb,,lized 'irilit\ -.ttlCl' it rc~cmbk·d ...perm.
nw p~wdl', mmit- prm id~ ... K1r nch npponunitie~ l'r color
ntl.TilCt: mh.l1ormaJ ill\ ~.:nrion :tJkl rhL't'l.:fur'L' (.l n rc.1l iz~.· it!' full (Oil1Jilk'ir~
onh through rhe pruned medium. Jintlll\ '-)tl.'W;-Jl't :.hm,~ o(( hi-. p~llrem~
1111\:Jng pro\\ 6:- "tth a dre.:-:-. do" 11 L lhlmbk· of qrjpl·d o.;hin. glen dwt:.k
'PPrt J:Kkct .m i ~clulard (lHir in-han~.! ("L'c al'u lll':lll.\c hc~nn·, \\O\L'I1

paJ,Ic\ ut~ page ~9 )

CLUB AND '"'P 0 R TS In rhe tnrmdu(tiPn l\1 his bnnk Tb, rhc cmi-
twnt 1 ngh-.h co,tume Ju,rorian }<111ll'' l.a\l'r pni mcd tllll that rill' carltL''t
rt.'(\,rded ct of porting col~)r' bdong.c~.l ro thl' I /mgari Crh:kd Club.
\\ htch \\.h l~\t.!llJcd around J~...j.) b) .1 gruup l)t") llllllg c~ullbridgl L 111\L'f'iltY
mJcnL" \\ho cnJ ;} ed both the ga111e nnd .llll:ILL'lll' thc;,tric.ll~. I hq \'ro1.dd
JciH.feZ\Ilth ;a thl' Blenheim J h)rd on i'cmlt \trl.'c:t. '-lnm~titll1.' rhL""fL·aCtcr· a

~·t nl" (r1lur' '' .1' adoprt•d that could b~.. ~,n nll:d \.m :1 lbg nnd llmrn ('' cr the
Pm 1JJ.._ Ft dunng their mmcht:" ·1ht"'' cho,c hi.Kk. a CliTUt \ bri~hr I'L'd .•md
\. # • '-""'

g,)IJ. tn~}mbolize outofdarkm.:,s. thn1ugh rirc. imu light" In t~/(1. when

the\ (,line ro :1dopt a ric. it naturall) emb,,dietl rite' ~a me col~ >rs.
\nothcrcategon
"'- . offigurarin~
... motii. . th<H bcg:111
"'
\\'lth a l'riti~h
m1l\.1tllm ''a' the allon:r spon tic. I ir.;t g<1jning (11. pubrit\ in d11..' I..'Jrh
~ "- j .,

19.2Ch. It \\as 1 ucd m ... m.1ll editinn~ (If subwn ~rela tl•d pat tern' printed
m '' 1..10l chaiJ i I ach theme prtl\ illcd it''> liCHH Cl'" \\ i rh .111 c\:Cll:o.c h,
TOP
''('.If 111.111 '\P('rt~ f&gurcs that signified tHll..'\ soci~tl ~t:tt.us .1s .1 pol~) pl.l} cr.
Jiwmr Stemm ;, ,, pm'slt'}' ul'rktit.
g( 1! fer. :mJ n 011
BOITOtv1:
It took thl' cdcbr.lted r n... nch dl· ig11er lle111'i d't )ngn). ;l pas- I
I
lliltatt hur'r lmcr hl put rhc ~pc..'rrs rit:: h.Kk i11 thl: . . . ltltlk· \\hen l1c
n.:l~.,,cJ lw~ fanll\LIS cqw·,trian J~,igns fut·l kn1tc i11 the Jl)~\l~ 'Ti,day. - -
..
the d.u 11.: llcrmc-. rae has brand1cd our Lu tll her ubj~."ns. such~~' paltnl rcc-., ek·phant' and b.1l
h• Hl~ g..1111~ring J tc11lo'' ing around the \\uriJ C\l'n amollg nll'n "111-. ll<.'nnalh C''cl1c" ::\11\
•
1~'1"111
)f tdl·nufi.1blc .u11re In nmd1 the :,amc \\cl) that the llcnnc . . lie":. n.lrru\\ "ill tit Jd~~" f.1:-hion
anJ llhl't tlll' n"" ph) ''-lut·s. tlu" icon' "ct•mtngl) comr.trinn im.1ge '' l'rb tl) ih .k·h ~tntagt: I <'r
th.: 1mc tmcnt (llmmunit} and other uil"\. its C1miliar J J crmc~ dc . . ign a1·g(lt l1n' nt.11.k it dw
\HJrld Ot:\\t~..'it nkl ho, 'dub nc.. (:--.cc: Jlso Pnncc Ch.1rl~~\ ric page 12.R)

----
 T l.l E ASCOT J h._, .t~cott~ thl' mn"' [~H·malt)J11l' ufnet"kuc l~nm\n It-, nJme dlrr\i. fr un
rngl.111d'~ \sc~._n r.tr:c~ hdll nnnuallr in \pril -,mn· 1-1 • \hhough n adhere\ llll rt. do d hl dtt.
t.•arl i L.'r 1) pes of ncrk\\ car th:m the f~,u r in h.md t hl' .hcot '\till bdong\ ro tht gc.:nn: 1h..t ltll m
dll' ru:H fro11t \Vurn 'pccilkall} '' 1rh ~Htn.ll d.J} dntlu?~ tlte .l'ct'Jt '' frcqHL>ntl~ found 111 ru:h
)R£~ '1 ~ l;
:.Ilks tJf .-.ubdttL'd Cell( 1rings ~llld, in.:i ·il'lllalh all~)l·ds the genrJeman n ho \\ p.:h,.. u~ 111d11l!!'-' 111 i
-u L i\fA r-.1 \.~bpl.1} ,lijl.'\\clr) rhe opr)onunit) lLl wenr n cr(''-tt~d pm t.>r n pc:1rl
~I Oll~t). a cots .1 rt:' \\urn ftw !i-1rmnl d.t) .Jn_.!-1~ c . .pcci:dl} \\ edding. Jnd ro11. sdu,~ J'=
ngut·ur al hunting owing. rhl' Fhlinted cndt'd blade., .trc tt~."Cl m a -.impk I nt:•t \\lth tht t.:nJ\0
cm,~~.:d c.>H'r the ~hinframt t11 l~>nll a pl.~twn on cl1e che l the \\boll -,t.•t"urcd b, a cr.n n pm n
pearl. prder.1bl} J r~.tl on~.-,~, quorc f1·om .1 19J 3 <..;a:t•Jtt dt· Btm 1im. 'oOt."T} ·"' htgh .trhnl r oi l , ••lit~.
JtHit. ··1 ur a m.m to \\Car the. hcot proper!). along" ith the nobilit1 nfhi" m.mn<:r t1u: .uuhunq "i
his g.ti!. :md Lhe 'olumt~ l)f hi~ mf',. ), an deg:mt beanng ~'Uid much nJntr.tl pr..:.'il'lkl' .m.· l!l.t.'l\1~
iJldi!'ncn~nbk•.'' ·l, much for rhL' ~lh'ragc joe being nblc tO muck ~n·0und 111 unc
r '" '"'

·rll E Bo ' v l -IE ThL· bcm tie deri,,·s fmm the ccnturie -old 'i:ql~ knl'''n .t... £ht.: 'h1 d d

bolt or\\" hahl~ l~lbric \\ r.'lpp~d tn.lll) rime.•lrnund the fle'l·k and Ut~d in front I \t.>ntualh rht.•
stock,, ,1, rl'dli("~J tn a 'i11~le ha11J around rhe rwck '' ith h~ end~ tied up Ill rhe h~m uf h JJ \t
d1c t.:nd (If rhe nitlL'tL·L~Il l h cl!nrun. there'' ere La lca'il two dt!"tinct m£tdd . . t,fb{l\\ nc' tilt ~tn
•
tarll} and t ltl:' hat \d ng The "·arliLT hunc•rll~ t) l~ ''a' dtaractenzed b\ brl.Md tl.tru:i . . h .. [X
----
end',, ho'~ "h.ll! bo" riC>d up "ith ct :>m.tll knot Tlw 1!1m~d
I n~hsh manufacturer \\·d,h \ l.u·g~t'-L"~n. aloll~ '' irh orlwr
[ 11 gl1 h firm ... called rheir bunrrtl~ b"'''~ tl11'-tk· tie~. which
'-'

\\,1. a more accur.l.tl! dc . . cnprion of rh~ir form

Luc-r on, rhe burrcrtl) w·.IS 1110'-litled into a narrl)\\~o:'r
~hape "irh qu.tre end:- and n:nn~d rhe ·'batwing .. \lrhough
rhe dTcct "a' pa~Kticilll} rhc ~anw. it '' .1' .m~1incd "ith llllKh

Jt:Ss rroubl~ The butterfly· '' ing' h~1d to be m~1dc in di!"l~·rcnt

,, idth' ro .1rcom mol.latL' \":lf}'iug (\)I! a r heigh t.s. wh i It: the
un~Jmpcd, .,tr.1iglll C'lh._b or the ban' ing fir CdJbr '>ilL'\ J ll
llll''t

\mei'JCa. dw. 't} le came to be knO\\ n a.." rhe dub bu\\: AIrhlmgh
rhc:) can l~ \\Ort1 intcrcharlgc;lbl}. tlh' thr'lk ends ,houklnol
~xcet·d 2 ~ 4 inche_, or bL·Icss d1::tn .2 1 4 inrhc' Ill'' idrh. while dw
bat\\ ma'_
b
t ..tb" c.m rang~
~
b~nvecn 1' 1 inch~.' h1 2. inchL''·
Bo" tic~ can be ''orn 011 both (~,rm~1l :1nd inl~'nn<11
occa~ion!>, Ja) or C\'ening. and are (Orren" irh ~..·ithc.:r '-tnglc-
or dl'ublc brc.1sred jackN'. t\s rhcr cxpn~t· more.· ,hJn(J\'IH
rhnn &.he ltmucr
.::- l·~lttr-in-h~md. it· i~ not lltli.'Otnnum ro find
sumc form of~ \\ai ... tcoar in :lrtt•ndancc The bow til' tends lll

be adopted b) rhu. . c men "husr prnfcs . . itlll' rcquirL' th~111 w

lean O\er frcqul!ntly. such a' archir~cts. doctors ..mcl ''aitcrs.
In \meriLa. the lxm ric retKhcd ib pc~tk ol" pt)pubr-
H) 111 rhc nud thinics. [Jucatcd bcm de l~1rc l·or till' n'llcgc
man "cnr omcrhing like rhi!>. a t~ 'ulard bow fDr a L\\ ccd
""
Jacket. a plaid buttcrtl} fur his ')inglc-brc.btcd gabardine !-llit.
.md m:t} be J rcginw11ntl bat\\ ing '' ith hi~ ~hcrl:'md j:1ckct <md
gr:t\ tlJnnel' Jn the l.are 1960s. lhc bo\\ ric ancd a' Lhe per~
feet fotl for th~ mo't inuginath
'-'
c and ourrngeou of cok)r ..
cumbi rl.ltton~ .md de,tgns

\<\'raring tile Bow Tic In the hnnds uf :111 1.!':\PI..'I'it.:tlC\.:d pcu.:ti ~ Le Corbrtsic:r q·itlg IIi$ b,,w tic iu
tlunl.'r. the bm\ ·s final .:bnpc can end up inilucm:i11g dw nutfrt·s aaonlcwcr ll'it!J IIi)> m~,od.
O\t:raiJ im.1gt! ~ell rTJ(,rc chan its fabriL >-:~o.'Ck\\t'!lr ~huuld nut L - f
d1 t:r;Jct from th~ t:K~ .111d bccau:-.c t[ is usunll} th,: llh.l::.t prl'Hni- j
nent item of doth mg. i[ musr ah\ ·•>' bc GJreli.tll} prcsen1 ~d. I krc' l he architeC't It' ( :urhu.,icr (at
rt1p) f~htuning hir.. slip of Mlk to Ci.lnlorm "irh it:-. more t'rdcrcd '-'11\ irom. \sk(.''' c..:rwugh to rclll!tl
tt.s bcncf.tcrnr\ h:mdmork. the bo,., ·s f~,,·mmion suggc h .1 man in control t.."~fhis PJJ\ ironment. of
hi, 0\\11 l}lc .\ltcrnari'elr (bdou:J. he 1._ c.-apmrcd m lt''i .tustl.'rt· circurn~tancc-;, rdlc..'cted l>01h 111

hjc; fact.ll L'Xpn: '-tOn and b} hJ!'!lllL'rc C<l'-U:ll (L lbr a11d ~u([cr r~nd~red bl 'w !\:orieL· in c~ch ra... ~ the
prcsl.'n~e of rl \\.ll~tcoat \\ htch hdp~; t1..1 mmimizc thl' from·, opelll'Xpilll~c

-- ---- ----
16! .....,
a af'

0 •
Tt-tE BOW 11E SHOULD F1NISH .VITHIN THE OUTER EDGES OF A MAU S £YES AHO Tr.~£ ~ DE L r ~ o.- 5 F t.

lll\\t':tr,lblm tir . . qJi"ltl) t\\ni ..-.qc ~o,hnulJb~.·~_·,m idtrLL:I fJr,t ih \tdrh!\h uld,ht
C\te!ld ht:}L'nd the ourr..~r t.>dgl' ,,f.l pcrlinn\ l~cl:' .•md dl'ltnitt.•h m~r bqtHh:l rill: btt.tJt.h .. (h, . .
n)II.J r \:- \\ i rl1 \'rher n~"'l-b' ~:tr r h'-' ,hj n '~ \:'oil a r .;la;u ld Fr.unc.' 1 he rie" l.nnL Ht~n{ 111 Jl'\\ 11-o \\it h
. . 'lllL' n .J],ir lt~llf.t.'r 'tT.1igln pt;>im lW "~lfter st.'llll spre.Jd co!I:ll·" '' 1!1 happ1l~ aaonunod,nr ht
.1\ t'ra~c'
~
'iZI...' hu\\ tTL'.

I nsuriug th~lt rh!? bti\\ \width l'nd~ up\\ it hin rhl' L"nlhlr ... 'lllL.'r cJg'-·' 1~ c l 1h lCt·c t
ph~ilwd wda). thanb to l11c graduated hand~~ 'tl'l1l that 'Hpl'r cdeJ tht: ongan d t '\,Kl "11~ h '''
tiC llnn'l purch.l~l"' Ull) btl\\ tie\\ itlllHll Jlr~t II\ ing it dll 0 .b ro he- ~i.:rtttmth;-tt I[ -.n bt sh ·tn
ened "'nough ro hnnn,mi:~.e "ith \l)ur t'" 11 fact.tl f~aHJrc-. 1 h1" ml"'.m" rh.n
~
1f .I(tt; r \C\U h.t\l
aJju ... f,·d it h1 ~~lur c~act nee!.. :.i/t'. ir:, bl'" ;.., 'IIIItclo ''Ide (a ,-\,lll11lun plt>blc.:m) chc.. ·k h '-c

that it L.111 ~uJI be m.h.lc "lll:tllcr l<J fu C\)J'fL'Cih. •

I I1L' ~ ·o.) nd i:~.su~ l"nJKt·rn' tl1 t; 1\ in~ .
.. l) ( th(' bo''· ·r he brm ru:- \\ 1'- tJila Jt•,,·nhL.J J' .1
"g,trtll~lll tkiT LOillbill~'- GnnridClll tllllll"l'h \\ llh .lb-.~.,,,ll[t; rc'pcct ..IbJJJt\' l hl•f\..' I"' Jll\ pntn[ Ill
~pl1rting Lhl' brm lit: tll1lc ::> ~qu plan 1.,111 r~ iltg II }•Hii''t.lr Pl.Kt' a llUlhL'tnltk.dh pert~ -r rr'\j Ut.:U

bl)\\ lllldl·r \Our

0
chi11 .lu\.1 \OU tLll·~nkL' .til I Ill~ I\ tdu.1l1t\ llw h.md nl'J bn\.\"' 111\Jl'IJ\ lo ,p..., t d
unprc~.:IiL"tnhle .. ,, irl~ g.iH" )<'HI tlhH suhtle m . . ~..mn:tJt..·t~ dun dt'"'>~rL'd ..1plmnb
le" men \\c,lr their~ \\ilh mt>n! !\.mgfn•1d
.. th.m the fn:nch bnult\Jf<~.ll\:f J .lllt r 1

l'hilippe '-:c)jreL llerc hl' t~1~h1o11. 111~ dub brm '' ith under... t.n'-"<1 d4111 -h,n·d 1:Kkct .Jfp•.tt.. :t
'' m tCl1:lt. ~o1i l)11br ~hirL mini dot DO\\ -.pm of f..ml.ud .11 \.11'-''l. .md 'tU z tllr: idll dw ,bft.; t

.. nr irs lll"'l SIICL'illft 'llh.' )l1ll .ln.: mun.• m.ch I'tl fmJ flll n \\lth rt.d per
.. lJnJI,c ..llt'llfl
tun cig.tr.
~ lllnl ..,q·lc frt.. m thu:-;e \dw hnH·Ih \.·d lung c.'nough rtl h.n c l'b \.1'\ ._•,u Jf .lJld thc.u appr lpn::un.ln
f(H· tiH..·m~c-ht'' i11 ~._nlll·r "')rd ... thl· n\L'r ftfl\ '~t

- - -
 N f c /.: \\ I .A

Ph1l1ppe N lti t s!Jo" u~

hu Galltc gout
 •

DRI:: '·' r N:tr

TH r i\1 :\ ';-..•

--~

T}'itlg the Bow T;c L'-'arning to knnr riK' b(m tic i" m-n tht: daunting m k )OU 1mght imagine tt
requires Ill> tm>rl' 'kill rhan tying'
• tr,..;J
ot r 'hllC.!'. Onl' "m to pracri~c i.:- to f1r5t rn nnw 1\.UlL' .tround hlUr
I ~ Q ..

lhigh. SirJo,, 11 and eros~~ our legs.\\ r:1p the bcm an,und) 0t1r thigh jusr abV\\:' dw knl.X' :\m\ do'~
yottr l') L'S ~1nd tit: it J.<.. H1ll \\ 1.)uld roLl I" shod~lC\!. \.."'lpcnin~} ('llf C~ l'.',) OU ~hlmfd 1ind l hm . .!It h ugh 11
ll\:I} lad~ ~1 cc•·tain nc.srltetic }'Oll haYl manipulatL'd the bl-,w t1Hl1 J re(o_f.nizablr knut

\Vi1 h n ...;nil ''TappL·d ..tbnttl vn11r knee. rhr bl)W GHl BL)" be fin~ wncd 11mld It le-11
1, ,op in )'tJttr l~(r h~md and the rtght lm'p in) 011r right. Pull1n~ tla~ r\\O loop:-. 111 nppn ne din:t:
t iot1~ 1ightcn~ 1he knot:.'' hdt.' pulling rhL' two t,tb L'nrb rc.-.hnpt.:.s a.nd ~u·.11ghrcn' the loop
.. \ Crt'r t:mDJ iarihing y•1ttr<•cll \\ lth tl~t.• prl1CP!'-.. lhl\\ 1ry knouing it around~ lmr neck bm
without ~1 shirt FL'r Ill)\ lccs. the :-;h 1n collar c<,mpl icatc-. rhl' le.trning pron~:-~ The big J,ffen:nc~
here i · 1h:.H in ,rJer ro get e:tl·h ..-id~? nf dtl! be"' tll ,.:omc \)Ur equaUy m "idth and lt·ngth l'JlL

blallc tllll'>t "t.lrl out Ct)ur L1r .-.o inches l,,ng('r dt:lll thl· orhcr \\ "hic:h ,jde} ou cht\l'":t· fd lllJU
llmg,·r i~ rca II} up t·p} oLL

--- ------- - ----- -

 ------------ -
1-H E F 0 UR-I 1- H .\ ~ D Th~ term "l~)ur in lund" l(x Lh\:.· ~1 ipkuot nnw \Hll'll duuugh
om the \\oriJ came im.' ~,· 1cmilbc .u the end l'r Lhc nitwtl'l"tHh Ll'IHllf}. The cx:1,.:t dt•ri,,Hion
of the term 1.. 'ull un,cLLil.:d \tun~ time. it \\.b tlllltJgln t0 bL· a rcferLTKc to rhc h)tJr-in ll~n~l
Club timrh.lcd England in the nint:tC\:'nth cumuq b) young nten who indul~cd in c:lJTi:1gc
111

r;J(lllgand then adopted thi~ t) pc ofknot ror their lit.'' l)r, itt.-Pllld haYe rl?fcrrcd lll the \\:1) l)Jll'
hdd the rem of a four hot· c "-arringc Th~..· tit.'\\" tour in hanLI knm \\'~b qui\."kcr w l'Xccutc. nnd
ccm Jdcrcd more ma:\culinc tlwn the dccnrou.; blm tit.·.
\\I tit 1t' conn01~rs and harmoni~..·.... rhc Jh.'dni~..·'..; dL''1gn C<.:lmc~ ckN? rtJ tilL· ann( p.1int ing·
hPWt'\Cr knotting it l'L'St'mhk·-. th~..· :ll'tll(.sculpwn·. Th~.... man•wr in \\'hiLh a ne is kncJthxl oflcr.., rhe N I! c K \\' L•.o\
onl~ tnt~ rncan:' ofimpt• .. ing onc"'s indi\ idunl st.llllp 0 11 ir ( )"-'~" Li111~. Lhi" mal~ ric~.:: !il1l'ukl eV< 1hl'
mro .morhrr mnnitcc:.mrinuufonc\ pc..'r'L'm,J :-t) lc ~ lust men'' CIT intn1duccd [l1 rhc dr . . cipl i ti L' o(
ncckti•: decorum b: thf'ir Cuhcr~. :it h.-~..· d1"~ m.ljl>nl) Cl11Hilllrcs to rcgarJ this c~1rlr indoctrina
unn a ...ntnch~,.n, . . aero 'tllKt. 1~~\\ h.ne ncr rn i!'itcd this prucl·Ju1·c in ;.1 crcariH' manner. l ~L'll
dem.m designer Lunann Harbcr.1, one ,_,f Italy"' tllL)"l l'l~"pccrcd raqcm:1kcrs. ~hare.., -.nnw
rihmghr. on h1s rcl.ttion~hip wirh the necktie: "The tic iullow_.. rhL~ culture. In the 1-i(rics. I wor('
abm ne In rhc,ixtie-.. I tried a \\ 'ind~orknl..'t.ln thc'c..'\L'lllic~. l wcntl..'pen~ncckcd In the
caghtJ~s. 1 h.1d cl big ~lggrc,~i\1..' knm that s:1id. 'Don't mc. . s \\ith me '\.c.m· I find that "hat I
\\Jilt 1!- .1lc .. , fu,,cd l)\Cr knot'' id1 a ,l.,.ft plc:1ting. It I" '11nplc. It is dccbrarivc. Ir feel~ right.
I ~0\\ "ill I \\car 111) tit in the n~xt decade? \VIm knuw~? t\$k me then_"
\!though 1\\0 knot~. the \Vindsc.lr and half~ \\ mdsnr sui! enjoy limited u~c. rh~ f()ur
111 h.tllcl n:main-. the prcK'JTcd ktwr lilr mu~t I·:Ki::d L) p~s ~m d l~1r ~he wurld\ mosr ck·gantl)
<lttlrcd men. The four-in hand\ principal adV:lllt':lgc i~ tlwt it 1.., the .simpJc,r knnr to c:-:ccutc
Jnd it rlllnm:r (rnme rl(.:; into all :-;hirt colbrs \\ ithuut pushing its point~ awar (rl)!ll the ~hin
bod\ like the \\idcr bt>died \\'iw.lsors. <..Jn a purcl) architectural basis. ir~ conic~111~1rt11 il:Hrers
more rnc-n' faces rhau th~ \\.im:f,{.1f\ horiZltJlLal gcomctr}. \\ hich lonl' att,dd~ ttlldcr :1 L.lpered
dun ·1 h\.:· fnur in hand·s ~tighrlr a'rmn11~trical set al~ll help.; rhc prc-.cnrarjon appl~:tr Irs~ fu~'}
than rill unmctriatll} t.1tic and tri~ngular \Vithl,l)J" pre . .entaLinn.
It' h,bnd the half-\\'indsf'IJ', c.m :1lmost hl' excu~c~..L i!"onl) whelp n thin ti~· prl)tlttCl' a
l.trgt}r knot llo\\t:>\er hould a fulkr !...not be "Jc.;irc~.l. ir's better Ln ll"l the Prince ,\lbl'rt \cr
tnn b.t~tcall} .t four in h~md luupcd 1.}\~r ;.1 St'Cllnd rime. I hi.., fl'::~turr nqkl'' it p.lrti(\d,lrl)
.u:rr.l~tl\c to .. hurt m~n be-=.au~c it results i11 :1n ;thbrL'' i~ul·d tic IL·ngth Il1l'r~ cnn~istl'lll
'L
"ith
thcu 0\t.Iture. \~'hen luoping th~ rw Oh.:r the n:lrr,,\\ ~trip. rnrc ~huukl bt· Lilkcn nut to pull the
knot roo nghtlr othCf\\1'-t' pa~s:tgc or tl.l.' Sl.'Cf'ltld lnop "dl be dillJclliL. Like the four ill lt.tnd
knot. lite Pnncc: \lbert\ ell\} llliJll"trkal Ct add-that ~;lllltar~ IPllch so import:llll ill COilH.'ying
clu:~ lonk or
11 mchabnc('_

Rc.~garding the appropriate \\idth nf:-t m.111·~ tic the princip.1l criterion hn.!- .rhHl~.!) h~en
th rrl.mun l11p tt'\ thl' jack~t lapel llJ1Ce .tgaill, t:1shinn mu'l d~fc..:r w rhc :1rchit~cturc o( its
prat:utimh.:r-. \\',Jth-. bc..·t\\CCn -t-' 4 inche~ ''ill gene-mil) cn~ure longf'' ir~. \ Jli:Hl
) 1 :t inchc~ and
\\llh n.lrrt)~\ "houldcr h:1 lc~ chest to drape a lapci.Km~s. and thereh:w~ ib nan·o\\er dinll'll

"-H n dtctate.., that the tJe foliO\\ su11 CCHnl'rc;cl}. a 111.111 who ha!'l brl):ld ~houldt.•r~.; rt'quin· dw

--
 - ---~

-
l
~---

I(,-

NlCKWLitR

tHE" TYING P~E.OIJRE ,AIMS TO EXECUTE A TAUT KI'IOT WITH A DIMPLE UNDERNEATH.
__j
(,l·tting the kn"n to tOld rhi:.- \\a} i:- important. bccau~c i(i tightened properly. th~ t\\0

:-illL"' uf it~ crea..,\.· \\ill deepen. blo:-,oming our und~:.·r Lhc knnr. andl~.lnng tr ~ll rhar it rc~iq~ lno~­
~ning It j, partKlilarl~ nnportanr upon fir.:-t knouing a nc'' ric ro rq ro makc the knot dimple
pmpcrl} .1; the neck-tie' lininJ anJ .. ilk cn..:a..;cmenr (cmn a "mL'llH)ry" rh:.n" ill a!)~ist in rhc dim-
f le . . lnrm.nion the nexl time..· out. Thi." i:-; ~llh'l her rc..':bull wh} nwt\.' "t':lS\ Hlcd pr!l..:rit ioncrs of thi5
,tn h.:nd [O prd~·r !1.1nd 'L'\\ n Ik..:hi~" of wtnelt silk The \\ll\'L'll :-;ilk·~ rc.xrurcd ..;url~c"· hdp~ di-.
Cl,ur.:tgc undue ,}ippngc of the knot. nnd rlw g~...·nuinL· handmade anide hn~ gn.:at.l'r re~ilicnq.
1 hth mort.~ ten 1011 can bt- impo"cd on the knot:\\ ithout ruining rhc tit;~ fabric
\\ &rh rhc parriaUr complcrcd knOl qp.. pcndcd rrom rh".. neck. place both rhttmb.!i Jll'l

bdo\\ the knot under eirher ide oF top blaJc...: '' irh d1e lorct"ingcrs rt:sring. Jirc..:rl) above. Pull
do\\11 martl} )ou \\ ilJ find thar the tic\ top blade'' ill .,ran tn buckle: in the middle ju:-;[ belu\\
dt(' kn n fitrming .1 slight com ex cm·it}. It "ill com inuc to
du on the upper blade j, pulled tiglu L;t•nd) guided Lo it~ 1
fln.1l de,umnion b} tl1c rip~ of rlw rhumb and forefinger pf ) I

nne h.tnd (,t.., opposed to the Eu of the palm)" hilc the other
hand hold') tht.> bnrtom blade 111 place. the knot. arri' . .::-
appearmg t"rt•~;,her. more rda..xe"l and ueed i "g lc..;s fi n.1l
Jdju-.nncnt
If tht.> l) m~ prn~c.durc i.;o, not e\cnn.ed "ith :u1
llm .uJ producing .1 rnur knnr. tht> tie ''iII not h.l\ c the ncccs
·an 'prm~ .1ruund its. klltH to arch out from the collnr. as if
pmsrd .n artl'lltnm ln~tt.!.."ld it,\111 hang.lrlc n dead Ctl\h com·
prmnic.mg the "t.tmre o( the entir~ arrang~mcnl..
.. \\ nh the tie
pn ltl• Hkd m.trtl~ up uuu d1~ Lollar. ir~ JunpiL: ~xtcnding
J~1 \11\\ Jrd d11.~ t:'{'lllP ,...,ttion pruJ~ct~ ..1 4iublrmin.tl.mrhl)rii} A "TAUT KNOT LETS THE TIE
J\RCt-! OUT F'ROt-: ll-iE COLLAR WITH
MINIMAL F'E.RIOOIC Ao.JUSTMENT

- -- - - - - ---~--
 I - -

T il E N EC K ER C II J E F ~incc .mch..'nt time.. a m:m has ~th\ J\ ... fdt tht. lil t ""'T\ h.' \h. r
DR£. t>Sl N l•
TH.Fti!AN
~tHnethlllg :ll'("lltlh.i hh 1lt!ck. \~'ith the cxplo,ion fll.mmll•ru 'JlOrt't\h'.tr m dw JI.JlO" the 1 u h
ofthl't'rl~n nc("kcd !'lf'llrt shirt in,ptrcd n \';lriL·q ~>fnt:\\ ''~}~ wappmntth( ned. I ifl);u JH'J'
ui:Jr r,l:;hion .It [urDpc~lll \\,liLTing holes, the ~pOrt\ !\Car(\\.l' and 'lliiJJ;; du">d} tdL"IlUfh;J \\Jth
l~idern high''} le J \ ... illtcrmuiumtln·a,d .tcc.."cler.Jtl'd the ..h.1opnun ofltght\\t t~ht "PPfh\\l: r 1r
''·'"'n·t lnng bd~,re the llt:\\ 1/.llltdt•cozt begnn lltrnmg up around dw ned.., of rrurtl t n1 J ,Jill

F'OI..DING THE NECKERChiEF

tOLOINO THE NECKERSCARF

, ..
,• ' '•
. •
.----- .

.'
.• •• , .,

TYING THE NECI<ERSCARF WITH A LOOSE F'OUR•IN·t--.MIO !<NOT.

 --

\m\.'riCUT1'i from I he '\\.luth o( rrancc l() till' C.uibbt.':lll's

n ft,h -.rmn~hokh
1\h.'l basiL mo~.id.., n( :-pnn nc~l'' c~u b~~.111
. 1.1ki11g
...

h.tpe 1 he mnrc common ''~~ rhl' neckerchief. .1 -.plid Cl,jl,r

t.\r partt. n1cd 'qu.m! o( -.ilk. corwn. or nrlll·r m.Hcri~tl t h~l£ \\ <1~
knom·d t.lrdrap~d m .1.:-cor ta:-l11on around lhe neck (tJppt 1.'itc,
wp) \t lllle pOI Ill in the mid rhinics. l)l'hL·r dun !(,r :tl~'nnal
\h'.tr I:t, llUt~ C\ en• I k·ll,"
•
\lOO hl.":td ~hor of .1 m..1ll· '-t'l'lllL'U to

fc.1ture one 'crsi m (.)r anorher l ,f thcsL' c.1-.ual nc" k-.cu \c ....
lake l'aq <;rum here. l1km, hL' h.t... a hca~..l stan in the
'
deb 1nnrr dcpnrnncm. bu[ drape a ncckcrdlicr in a t hm" -
ou·r sq lc und~.:·r a mund:mc knit polo and wund neck
pullm l'l' and pre,to. in~tant chic.
The ccond :.carf 'n lc was the neckcrtic. "hich "as a
~

. ,tk qu.trc t~1ldcd nn.,und the n('ck "irh it:-; cnt.f.,Jpn,dy rkd in
a four 111 hnnd ~t) lc (oppasur. m£./Jlc tmd bl,ttl1111). 0Lhcr 1ha1 1 rhe
l'·Jd £uropc.m. ur c pcci:1ll} Frrnchm~m ... pnning ~1 loul.1rd
ABOVE
n l:Ot Jl \ ;1 r.Uit) hl. fj 11d a man \\'Cari 11}.!. cl llt:ChTch ll.J
~
CnT)' Gra11t w'al'ittg a neckr.!rclri~f.
anpnorc. I or 1110::-1 men. f) ing 'omcthing ~Hound rhc neck
BELOW·
r..mack.-. of the- tit~:\} rhe (cmininc. l)r bctth. ·11w. '' .t bit
Animating the oprn nccklim·
biZ&liTC c:uKe most mtddle-m;rcd
~
t\meric111s ~~rL'\\ ut)
r wnruh- with a scaiftird·likt· aJour-in·hcmd.
•ng RO) l~oger and <lll} number uf John \\l;l } Ile L)Pl:'
!'.\\ athc lm neck decor nC\ the\ r. klc herd on tlw bad ~u\ s.
' ~ I

v\ err the neckcr. Glrf ever ro ::-L.lg('

... :1 1~1::-h iL)Il "·nmL'-
back. thc ne\\ mode in c.lSual office mrirc mi~hr
.... "dl become
tt5logu:.ll "PL'>n"or. \\ nh 311 manner of rid(:."" neck~ de,ccnd i ng.._
nn rht> modern \h'rkplace. a '~riet) tll- alternate neck treat
mc1tt' uuglu pn..1\ 1dc n wdco111C rein:( from to\\ h:n promi ...c~
to be m ern t~f rdatncl} blanJ bu lllt>~-.~bod) cmering (\t.'l.
pngc 2-~)

--- --- c~~-

T
 1 ht! c' ~lot' nnd p:Htt.·rn of .1 lll.m lw,l' w~ tht anonul s nw 1h t •n r II
l\Hl t,•xruml om:po ts g} n:itcmungat fl, urlc:HI.t~uJ.,r._ rpntr.:rn fmnd lk rt1 th .. ,)
ht'lll.: t tc:\ upper :tJu:i It>" s?r /..\ th:' bt:glll to m.'t\hlrl \\ nh c:.tch Jth~;r pn mpun~ tlt 1 t

tnkt: 111 tb,· \\h~1lc picture. I t.:•\\ .1n1q capturt.•d :\bnhatts 11'- cal~" llltl\ \\JtJ nu h
sl} li~hliC'\' <h Pete•· ruo .:.u It i" nu surpn'c th.u he knc\\ hu\ td l:tnpl the diiLlllu t
upt1111:1l cfiL'Ct lie's mpltl} t>d yuitl! .1 It\\ he.: ~L' but \\l: \\Ill iocu'i, n tht'~ It d t. i nu1 1htr~ r
'11it.111g lu-. .lllkl\:'

DR I. s .. , r\(,
iT u r M A :'II

Jn stnp1 anr Jre. dut1 tt1td hosr

armt J>~rLr Anra rdtat5 m lmr.ar ftJ' 11

----
 - --~------- 1
..J.
IIL'r~\ thcd~b'icn~'} Jn.·,, suit L'nlh~n~d
b,• J "lurh' md llf nm} and" hire :Kn.''"l)ric!' .. \\.ld
•t red carn.tnon ~md \Oll CL'mlJho'l \our 0\\ ll arwr
• J

noon \\t:dd111g ,\hJmugh s,llid mn1 dr'-''' lh ~-.."-·

\Hmld be dw '~milia of choice t~ ,r :-ot~~.:h .1 l~·a:-t vf
fonn.tlm "irhtlm .1 parrcrn bdcm the w.1ist w
int~"f3t~ thl• t"O'tWlll'\ l"\\ L'lliah-L'', the b(lt tlllll h.1l r
~

is ll:ft m r~:.·lmhc cclip''-~-

lmpll'llh!IHlll£ .... uch .1 rchtri(li1Ship is lh.H

"itKb J d:nu1t mg
....
rn,k. 'J(, bct!in.
...
hP~renJ ~hu1 tld matrh
th~ rrou-scr r:uhL:r th:m th'-· .sh,)L: fnut\\'<.'ar ~md
h'-l JCr") rh~u ar~ pcrcci' c~..l H~ a unir ult irn~ltd~ .scpa
r.ue rhcm che~ fi·om rhc rrou~r. !'>n 1pping thl' C) t.: at
t!JL: p~mt lt:g bmtnm insrC~h.{ Ot: C•..,Ctlning ir all the
\\,1\ d(l\\11
•
to the llom: \\ irh :t nan·• suir and black
~h'-lt.'!- na'} "L>cb app1..'ar richer than black. \ \'i l h a
d.uk gra} Stilt and bro\\ n l~>om ear, ch;1rco~tl ho. . c
\\ ould th\.' mnre ~I} lbh coku: \\11 ile apprnprin rc I(1r
lornlai \\t:at' and pracdcall) oblig.twrr fpr those
..
s\\,ttltc.J he.1d to roc In rcgubtion hlnck. black IH'~L'
-.hould b'-• .wuidcd .lt \Jther time'. "' ll~>sc noir" [fall\
l~mns the aukle imo :1 bl.tck hole. dim111ish111~ th~u ~

'' hich n could bt:amif\•.

Pattcmt:d hose ltelp intc,grr1U llllcl c:nlit~t'll the.• top

fltld bottOcnt hall't's o{Ms t'tlst•mb!t:.

- --- --
 THIS PAGE
Saclul Guitr)' in silk dress ho$e ~111d crocodile lace-ups.

OPPOSITE :
Tite slrcen C?.{Deau Acheson$ atrtl Al'erill I farriman's lrosc
connerr rhr:1r dim1er clothes to rltdrformal shors below.
 \ 111.111' ho~c .tbo nctx1.' m be nunp.Hihk· in drl''~illL'" \\ith it' t\\l) lll'ighbor:-.. the
up tJJrs rt\.>w•cr and thm 11-'r.1ir' 'hoc: \' , gL'Tll'l':ll priTk·iplc. tlu: mt rc l~wmal rlh' ~11'-~o'tllhlr. t h~
flnt:t or llh)J"C ..h.:~r rlw L_,,'-
ilk drt''' hn"tt'n. \utlt ir' inhercm 'himmct: dll.'t'L'I~)rl'. Ct'lltilltiL'" tn bL' the .111klc: l'lllbd
It hment ~,f ·hoKL'Iin· rhc Cl.)gno,(l.'rHi l'f.tt"tcr -.i:-.: Lhic ·r:tkc llllLC l"l( Lhl' h~1'c \\llfll h' '-.Khat ;ui
m l.mcoftht.'~rc.H b ule,ardier,oftltL' ln.·nclt "ta~l.' I I.'" (l"ltlll.'lllP'lran mend\ nllllsicr~ ll(dti,
-,hL-ernc . . l'I"tlpJ.k• . . ~,.·('IKC. bm it dllL'' complcmcm rile . . uhtlc lwacr fn•m ht:- (Tll(l,dtk• ..;hl'L'". I ih.· -
\\ i e ,.>b,cn c l ard111nl ~F'dlman .1.-- piCtured here" ith t\\ u prL,mim·lll ~llld "dl-drc:-."cd '1 uc,m \!11
ufdwird.l} I c,m \cht'!-l,.lll.md \h·rrll J larriman. lk~innittg"ith dtcir,ill. . - laccd l.tpcl!->. tr~1\di11g I ( O.SJ nrY
J \\11 rh~1r u·ou,t:r 'C:;lllh ,md culmin:uing
.. \\ irh thctr 'ilh.:k.... .llh.1 ~hu~'>. :111 unbroken ,eL umlbllu ll i\R.\IONI£5

"'' ~ sn·ipe oflt\!ht in plnmarc.-. each ~'-·'-·riot! ot" dw ("Hilrit "Hit th12 llL'\.l '\nricc hu\\ \If I brriman':-
lm"c t:'con: rh~ hecnti·L".,m hi:- rrou,Lr 't.:~lllb dm\ 11 H• hi:- pmcm lc:uht'·r L'Yening .. ht)C'.
 -

DRE '~I" G
r rJ E. .'Ill .A •

As wifh lJJciJiuo \ 'i$(oOillii tw.i Frank Sinmr~s rhtrk ;;illi'.

J~r tltt' st,rk !t1 ~f_l;ocr a ~l}'lMi ~r.zuJition bm1·un
frc.mst·r· cmd sliLit', it tlrtW 5lrcliY .'CIJIIC' t!(rTit'rr plty~rtitl pnlpmn'.i-

----- ---
The bulkier 1h(· mnCit, dw 1m:~rc ~'lh.' mwa Sh?p up th~ -.ud..\ duclnc'-~ ·~"'"·un~r ,,.ul
wn li~lc ho:,c.' would ~lppt:ar lnq '' ith .1 p.1ir of hc.n} tlmmd :-~1. \.-k., .md .t t''"' L't..i "'P 11 Fl J rot
\\ci~hin~
~ ~
in bn11..:.arh thL· ~l1 r~u dirc.'Ctl'lr I uchilin \ is-.-tliHI\ tbnnd trOlt"t:'r' .1rc \\ 1ttl ll -.e JU
"ide.· chnn k.) rib~. dem~m . . t r~u ing .tg.H u ho'' 1he :igc.·nq of re"nm..• run join d1tl( rent!''''' h •ns f
:m 'll~t·mhlc. Likt'\\ i:;~- rwt uul) dol>), 'ung I rank 'ii1:Jll'a\ :-p '1 n h '"" lu1h ht' 0JmllJ tl\ ll"i.:P.
cnar-.\:·r h'~ run• "i th rh.n of hi~ i nf(,nn:tl blnchc.:r hKe-up... but hi-. arg' lc-. \\ ang ll tht une
bent .1:-. his nerkuc.~

--- --
S QE_
soc s
ECK . EA
 \' lllClltl 111cd prL\ IOU•·d\ the bc~l drC~'-l'd llll'll llll)l.., llthlll ;1((\..':-.sorit..::-> :l" (Uillf<ldt's in

th. struggk Jg.un ( ...Jfl(lrl.ll ntcdincnt) \\ IH n:.Is hosier} h:t" long rul(iik·d il!' h)giL'Ilir 1"1..':-;potl

-.Jitllth... l 1 gu.trda,In o!"thc .111klt: n hlnk ,,me tunc h(•illT'C it oHdd dch'IPp intP ih "lC:tlnd;lr}
rmll11ll. .:rufappard -, h~'nphisllclll.'d 111.111 tll.tlw I<J~ ls\\,l:'•.t{·ru~ttlllll'~lt o(norllt
n 11mg lu hl 1igcnr \\ nh lu" fout'\\l .1 r \\ ath t h1s pt'l.:~o:~d 'Ill 111 plclc"L.:. \\h) c.-,uld n·t IKis il' r} \ ':1 r

t: ~ • I r llh.l p.lttt rn' .alo; , prumntc..: h.n·mom bt:l\\ ccn ditYcrclll senor' uf
1 uttn-- \\ hc.:11 n ·lk\\l.'3r mouf ~ud1 .1s P''lk:-~ dnt\ . tnl'cs .111d "pii,ll' ABOVE
(I I n:
b t n 'W lppear Ill tinl gauge\\ 1lll drL"' lw .. itT\ 111Cil \\ere rur Gt111' Ctlopcr dons
tl• r t l"ptn J t l t.lkL full td\:lntJgt:: lr rJu :lC\."t:\'-1.ln lllL't'C:l mg f'Ol~.'lll i:JJ complt·mflllaJ)'ItllSf ,wtf
{<lur i11 hc~ud
t nh ~ t11 c.: nur~ L ll cmblc •
Bogg uSts hJs parrJM1ll"1 ro
d:realus ho££s ciMrucra.
- ----
rh the ell~l Jf th~ 19-!0~ lnnq ho't'
a(U1unu...J tl:n· u{l percent oLt.ll men· 'l'(k pur-
ch.t~ocs '-em (.J t J.' a princip.1l cb.:mKrcr. tht·
, -=k.. ml~ c~p.md~d be) ond the :-nnplc
cxdt.mgt~ of d l.llllh'l.IC \\lth the neck ric t' l 'll:ll
c' lbbor.m..u· .tnd ro ,}, ccnr~r -m1~'-" .lk'n~'i'-lc
thl' t)tht·r ert-.~mblt• pb} ~r,
ll1c: tl\.~\:l pictun.> prnii lc rh i' Ill'\\~..--~ r t8 J
cdc:bnn nnd rt leading c~..}.. rar... J \ licr tit«.: n~..Yk H nsrrnY
f1 ,, n M o .N r L s
Ut: tlw ho:-c\ 111\) r lmquem .St.lgC partJKT i-:
thlJlt: mhc:r th.m the dre,~ 'hirt •\:- dw ~hin 1.-.

treqm:ml\ olrd. the ho~c i5\ 6·c:L 10 pl:1~ ~,n· th~..·

!'ohn-r 111 Cl'lorur parn.:m a-. rhl'~l.' ncxr n'n illu'
lrJt1 ms ~Jcmon .. rr.ne
\\ Hh ho.,ien llC'\\ CllJ.l '\ . Hl'';:;, its Ill'\\

f~nm'-i tJndmg nrlwr btt pb}l'f' "·lit «..:a~crl)

111 th~.· "mg., h~,pmg ro JDirl the 'hm' .. \ n odd
pt,rr J.Kkct CJil sonH.·ttm~-'· impr'tl\ c: :..om..:· ol
rlt~.: mnt\' 1mpmb.1blc r ,uti lll."'S. I lt.:rc\ l~ogc} .
rclaxmg Ill .1 md:mgc of'~,·, rli~ll \\OOit*llS, Iii."
h.md \\ O\ ell '\\Ctnl hos~ fl.'dmg h~JI111} com
fi..lrt.tblt• pl.1) ing oppll..,ltP a t \'11 ecd j:1cket rrnlll
rhc Jml.' ~ughl.md
fht: cnn. cl\atiH~ 1"))0$ -.oundcd .1
dc.nlt knell fi,r ~nphisticatcd men\ ho icq.
lrr r the ~r.n fbnnd mnn tried hi\ bc~t to
~

IL>nk lllvn mou uppre ... mg 3.11) IIKimation

tm,nrJ t:t"luun or md1' rdualrt\ Then the I

pr.tCllt111 •mir t f tilt• \mcric:m m,lll's br.lill .

.md ~non l'h·q lHn.·' plar du jm1r '"'as a choice
bcnH:cn bbck n.n) .md brfl\\ 11 strctdt sud.:s.
'l'tne I .1 t ( ll,1sr cnllcgc~ l'\'Cn inlli.n·cd the
rn Jdt.·r· fJ..,hll)(l fl)r d•spcnstng \\ ith "ocb
.Jit 1gcrhcr umt: -.om:hcrn Gunpu't'' <.'\ L'll

h td 1{'kh_.,.., fr.ttcrnn tl'"\. but a.;, cc,ol ...1, it

' .1' lt > ge1 Jrt"' ' d up md bctrc }our ankle".
f '\\ gu .tcru.1ll <: 111 H:d '' ennng... ~\h'al\
\ \ u,: JUil 'r ta."'d l dt~r

------
 ~~ etmcemiug the waangof ~ ,_ th sllottJ. Unl.--you can pia, basket
ti:.tl• 1M 1~ ¢_ts pOWer forward Keith an Hom cal{ or knee--high •port btl!it u
unifor:mlf e:ma~v~: Hbwever. 'Yidt Wlonrd shons finWHng at differen! lu!lghts idlove me
~. their hottt>.al opu-nillgs r:eqwre mote mass th~n just ~rear at the bue a£ thl! bod} for
proper b~. Other tlwlloling dre ROd altogether the Ottl) St) mh *mati c ti an nnlck
50Ck with clther-a rib top that can be rolled o\ cr or a loose-fitting pair of hulk) half Mll:b "tth
the tops folded down. (ln ~ auk.kts look plttt) tYfish under long uuusers prondiog the
trouser featur.e.s a ful1 and casual cut) Vvom here b) oel Co\\tard (oppMtt) and pictured tn dif
ft.,ent periodicals tro1n the ~hiT-ties the anklet t.s stiJJ the most chic wa) to tt!:ttn t~ocks and
shorts. Unfortunatel): the sports ankl~r "'as ant)ther in a long line of sn lu~b ho!.1e11 asualtu:s
 r

flJH \ ,'i l t-:G

T JI r l\1 A

RIGHT.

The Dttkt '1'Vimisor nn•cr missed

em opportumty to pnra.de his colors..
or irr rlns Cr.ZSt, /Jis stripes. 1 Irre he shows
tht·m t1fwtth pinwalr: cord trousers ami
iiJit! ~(It is t)'picallr audacious ll•fndaw-

panc affairs dirt!ctmg tra.fl1c.

OPPOSITL
America'sJmntT ambassador ofmetf's
fashion. NeimrJtJ .Marws's own
mmswcar cxpen, Dernll Osborn
fl'eJJ i11c gr,mdwr l~(tltc Taj Atalwl
cannot l!umb/t: this mans dedfcatiOt1 tO
pcrs. mal aJormmmr A more spectacular
rxample '!flwrmouizing headwrm·,
ltosit•t-y. ancl heart we lttli'c }'Vt 10 St'C

-~-~-----~- ----------------- -- --
•
\. , llh II l /,1
 --
OLE OF COMFORT

he l1r~t shoe' \\Cil? liul~ nu.tre than ~ole . con tructed from leather or\\ ,od J• ughh
sh.lpcd \\ ithoul de:-.ign.Hilm to the right or left foot. tile) \\e:re 'ieettred h1 "trap~ or ~mul.1r f.1'i
tcnjng th:u kept: them frllln l~'llling ufT I cathcrpro\cd durable readil) m~ulabk nd m r~ ph
I I~ .1bl..? than '' •l•Jd. \\ 'l n• n ~hq, ., beea me l:'IH:l(l.sl"d, il!.1thcr\ prom tnenc~.: incrca~oCd b~.:cmst: n \\ u'-
J) R E \ ' I I\ ,; one Ll Jl 1e (C,, CO\ t..::ring:-. dm t .tJJnwl'd :11 r lOci rcul.t£e \\ h tie ~ffording the fnm m.t\1111\1111 prou•c
TiH: ~\J !\ N 11011 .1~:1in~t. rlw clt'llk'tlL~
~

1hough the <::J rh lll~le ~hodd mg" "crP l?xp,,scd to J'igl)f~ unl 110\\ n 10 all but d l: mo\t
nd\l'llUtnlll~ u( moden1 n11m. durabilit} m tltOdl·rn hoes j ... ,,m a I-.e, fentun.: .\ \Hl1 madl .and
prnpcrl} ltH;ketlnfrer pair ,,flem her dr~s' siH'e..-. c.1n prnvidL" e\l'r.lf decadt.~ of llne ~ n tee.: lop
dr:l\\ cr loot\\ e:1r ha, upp~rs
(tlw top pan of rhe shoe) made from km~ n l nwrc th.m t:\h:ht.::
\h'cb \)ld These hide-. b.n t' :1 fine grain taking a high poli,h. The ~1ut:er ,oft al,u made ot
leather. "Ill uld bt> '\velt\Jd" Lo the J'l.'St of the sht>e \~ drnm . . tmctton d.th::s back t 'the ftfteemh
ccntltf} in \\'c~ten1 Europe .1111J con~i.:-1. c)f .!'it:\\ ing a srrip of leather in Ot.'l\\t~n the t..Jgc of the
,ol~ anJ the turned-in eligc u( the upper. Thi. i·•rocc's pdd~ an dcg:uul) dur.tble '-hl c in ''hich
the ·l)lc c:.1n be remmcd :llld rt'pairl!d repcnrf~dl) '' irh minimal dumagL" to the -.hot>'. uppt;r
The snlc~ of the be!'it •d10es ~trl' 'c.:gl't:tble ran ned for long~' it~ .md ~( l In~ .. ~ the1r
'-litche' hidden in n -"J.>L'Ciall) rut cllaJlllel <1r0u11d the 'ole. lnsoh:.s :111J lilting~ sh ·mid al'>rJ he
con·'lrtKt~d oCic:nher bt·um~c tilt') ab~orb per pi ration WirlhHU condp(ting he'at altcm mg tht•
font ll. ' brt.'~lthe ~md rht' ~h£'t' 10 !11(Jid Ill tb ..1t:1pc. \\dl -c.rafrcd h~d" are mnde ftum b}Cr> ~f
lc:Hilt' r 11.1 ilcd together \\ i 1 h brass pillS. :l sand" ich i 11£ crfcct 1hat prO\ ide..; the grt.>:Ht.'"ll...ll!'hmn
ing suppllrl, and :-rrcugth Fill.lll). lhl· ,!J,tpc of the fir.SL dns' ~boc 'hdtdd folio\\ the ron
it elf -srraigln till dw in,ide ;md cun ccl on the 0ut. ide." ith rhe in-.rcp pointing ttmnrJ d1~ bt~
hl~ ra1her than the shoe's cl"ntcrlint·. If the .shoe·~ hht (the "~"~od form on \\IHch t.ht: lh>t.' \\;ls

crafh~d) rm; rhc wear~r\ f'oor "ell. thcrt'" ill be little need t(1r dw ritual bre~1kmg 111 that •' u'u
all) a~~ocbtcd '' ith rhe 11L'\\"~~ hoc e:-.:pcricnc:c
In hi;-; lif(.cime. a m:ln may wnlk :1~ m.mya~ r I).OOC'rnile.s. ::-\1J\\\ ndt.•r th:lt I cmur-dnJJ
\'im:·i, all arti._t of ~pic: il11p\1IT:l1Kl: :llh.f :t lll,lSI\.'1' of an~ll011l}: called dJl' f~lOI a maSt'Crplt!L't! o(
t11gineering :-111d a work ol- art." h·s in•pt'.:sible to 'pend wu much ~m J tlneh ct.lftcd p~rlec:u~
n[ling P•~ i r 0 ( 'hlK'' Unl ih· m:m·s 0\\'ll t \H) cuiTl·d \\ l)rk, l' ( .lrt rhe-,e llC'\\ .lrll Ctct:-. \\ lllunprm e
"ith age.

PREVIOUS PAGE:
Adolplzc Jo. feujou in front oflt isfootm:ar stabft-.
Gi•·en ltis rxpansc ~frusttJm·nwde shoes, tl(ll tc1 mot troll
his collertiou ofrjJing boots, wlroe1•er coit~ed rlu rc:nn
·clotlu·slwrsr'' must ltc1l't' had him it1 m{Hd.
_j

-~ --------- ~- --- --
 ---~

STEPS IN TIME

hl· louk pf 11Hxlt·n1 nwn, :-ht,c:-; h b lh\,1\.' b~.Hnl' .1 ~.Hn·ct

rdation,lJip W dh:' Cll[ u( rh\:• trou~crs .\l dw lllrll l,f dll' f\\l'IHit:rh
. hi~b
ccntun. ... ,IWL'' "nh 'h:trpl) pt,int~.·d hll':\ pcrl~ctl) L"t11llpk·
rnt:mcd rh'-"' L"uft1~,. narro''- bonum pcg._\.!'-'d li"IJU.scr. B) llJU~
~,_rfrL•J [ftllbCI':' p:n cd l he \\'3} lor iJll"' tlX f 1t\.f ''H'l' \\ i th I[." l'l llllld .

bulbl>ll!" tt1t:
H: 1'"I 19 IJL'\\'1) I ibcrarcd 't'l"\ icemen gm l' tlw oxl"urd 'lht'L'
.1 tremcnJou. botl"l. opting f~'l" it' L"UI11ron after '\lOillping <Ki'O''-
[ urtlpe 111 ,ufi(xatlng cotllbjtt bu(1t'. \cCL 1rding tl' Equircs Euqdll}lt'
dwP{20thCt'llll11)'•\fl'lls Ft1slriou. -The \\'dl \.lrc~~l·d man of the posl\\',11'
•

period L·lL"'GJme a' comt<.1n (Otbcious rb ltc "a" dorh~..o·."' c~.,,,,,.oou"' ··

\\hen the fll"'pular kni~·kl·rblKhr "ttir dC'maltLkd cqu~lll) 11h)\.k·rn

,mJ lllOI"L t.:'Oillllln-:tblt• f0l1t" L'ar. th\.• high -tup !'>hoc\\ L'nt l he \\'~1)' or
(he . . ntT high
...
tlrting
"-
,hin c~..,lbr.

l~g and it\ ~LJli.III} t:I,tidiou:- naiTP\\: plain bottom a., th~ \()\ crcign J'ltJin,bottom trousrrs anJ
of.1ll rnm,~r silll('lucne'. \\'irh 'uch dtminu t i\~ dim~nst~ms .shcn th· slim-fitting bendwwdes.
__j
111g tht: clllkiL' ,111)'! hing lc.•·,~ ~p.trtal1 [h:tJ1 a p~1i I" I l(dliSl'' [lll'd i111pe~
n.tlh ·dim hcnchm~klc" ''uuki L·on:--tillliL' .s!lrtorial ~lltCJdL·.
Bct'\h'Cn rhc 1'\\P \\tlrld \\~tr......1 ridnl ol m~tlc Ct~hinn' \\c.l~ unk·~1,hcJ a.s io,lL\\car
\\J\'l'

1\tcppcd h) the IDil:fn)nt -1-hc m~tjorit) of tndn} ·~ ('l..t'='l\- ,lhK' ltlt)t..k:ls "ere llrsL (:rc~Hcd l~'r indi,·id
.
U3l cll':tl'Illcl"'l !J, unC' llf BriL•1i11\ u\\ 11 custulll "hn~..·m:1kcr:;J lmt as th~..· l:ngl[sh ~
"·l\ ik Ruw :1nis:.1rb
e i.1bli h~d the bt'tlchrll:H k lor t;ult.m.?d nwn':o, l~t,hillll during dtc and 3d' Lt)tldnn\ \\t·~r
~
ll).!l)s

lnd cobbk'r:" scr the -.r:m~.tlrlb l~u· hi':.!h-das." 1~'01\\'t.:~tr lh ll)2l), o.;hoL' manui~.Klt1rcr~ and r~?taikrs
~· I

.lgrL-eJ that the \\a\ to dl ·hoe-. \\as thruugh "st\ k·agc rather th.llllltilcn~\? .. Thi" lluol\'st-l'lll rncrioJ
... , t..: ....:.,.

uf men\ td.-.hit'n produced rhc half brogue oxl~)rd. the ~·;lp we blucher. the pbln H>t'' mnnk fr,·•nL
rlw \\ mg tip bud....kin. the ~orwcgian I.Kc up dw L"nrTc:-plll h.~L'Il t ... Ill k'. rhc "hi fl' bulk. tlw \\'t:t:ju n
shp on . .an~L.n.1rict} l'r~a~u.1l" iiJr . . pori ~p~l·t.llur1 <lllt.ll·\l'lling \\C.ll'. t\ltlllntgh the l1t ter h;llrL)r the
CCilttlll COillTibmed U f~\\ mar~· t'lllfiL''idw dns,jc i('ltHWC,ll' illllllibu~.likt: 111l.'ll.!' I~I~IJit>ll i11 ~Ctl ...
[l)
'
t•ral <llldltmtic.IIl) I.I"ihil1Jl:tblc male l( ot\\C,tr enn~umcred a ~eric: uf l1ctl Htr~ tl!ld Lk:nd L'lllk
In the fitll of l<J48.1Jquire m.tg.t~:inc prC\1~\\L't.l the Ill'\\ head tel-rue "f;uiJ I onk" Thi'
Ct 11ltrlhxl bur m.I~tt.'rlill rctrtil promotion prop~.')~"'d t h~n the cothlliL'I'IIlg . \ ml'J'ic.ul "ar hero nt.lll

rfi.: .. t the til'\\ \\urlJ PrdL:r b} \\l.':umg bold"-r pmp~ )niom:d :111d rnl~lfl'LI ckllhl''· ~:nurall}. 111

nr"ler In kL:cp 111 o;tep.J1Wn'...I~)C•t'h.':tr h~cl !'I• "'t~p up in btHh --n1le :111ll design. I rnm th~,•tt thruug.h
the IJlter hnlr uf rhc I9~l.l~. tlw \me1·i~.111 fit hi~m plelw ,,(tell '':1lkc"l .1n.1und in ~tr.tlgiH lt.mging.
n.uura1 --houldcr r..uir'i .llldltlrl'd b) gunboat izc brogue.-.'' ith hL'm d) dcL:tiled "ing tip~
 \ rh~..· \ etcran \ •~it.c:d ltii'Opt• tht'} lwgan 1.1t ing tWtli.: uf the halLll 1 ''· lnht:
"n,lunmar·· It ~>k I hi-. ugln finmg ,jlhuw..:nr ulnlfJ.(,l.I.'d sh:lrpl~ "rth tht: ..hlp..dc ,. ~..1 k. un t'
\1.tdi'>~..m \H!llllt" l)\c'l" rht.• JW\t rhirn r1r)' ~l"ar~ \mL-"f"icm men h ~:mthuJ flu'tJtllll \ll 1
~."lot hrng .mel lunl'' car d~~rgnr:d tD makt· dh.: male b1Jd\ .md ((,t t :1pp~a.r 11 11 , nl rn lltr b u
ll.'.lllcr \\ 1th ll'- lo\\ er 'amp ptlUllrl·r tm and ._IJppcrltl e pl.uh1nn tht l.gfu \ 1gl t lul1;11
~..r.t11t'd 'hoc \\ilS the lugic1l (tllldu .. ton hJ tlw L'ra\ n.HTO\\ k~gt"d lmnl m \:( tunulth· 11 J
12'ight ie . \\hen C.,H"rgi >. \nn.mi 1111n1 lu('cd t,,, fulll'r h.luch "'Lilts. dulm~n .. l\h' dt: 1~0 btgtll u
ll)U rl~\ t:-ort rln·l.trgt>r pr\f'l..lrti,m~ ~ fit fort•be~u·~ tl1e ''dt cnn truct~d \ngl(• \u L rh:.an dtt"' '-hoc
flRIS'\1"<• \\ hilr.:- fhc 'lxtJes Pc.tnld l{l'\olrrtion sp.mn("d .t plcth•nltl ~rt: ltl\ln c ptLI.lll f r
AI-\"
Lho'c o)ll('l.-mr" of pop "·ulnrn.: ki r ch. ud IL r 1h.m l'icrr~ ( ardin \-blum h1L: hf m uf lt)(>t-\ ,, htrh
fiH 1

'l't\cd .1 tlh_' lll'pirati,m (or (;,•n X\ "p1lgnrn tue dunk~r' thn~t.: )c.u·, .1ud d1l nt t l\\UU~
\h'rc a '' .1 relanJ nf malt· "lllW ~..i'-·~•gn llmH:' er \\ rth r he &m ning o( the He\\ Ct: mun nult
ll1t1l\\l!.11. (itll~ ir:,cJftrcaJingorl t:1milr,lrh.'ll':lUl. roiiO\\ingdo d~ llllht: h .UH lc.:J'"<fdttN.: h.ll
ln\\cd nr-.,tom .. h,'lc~ crl'.llcd rn I d\\,trdi.m Lngl.md more fine men ... 'h'l't' wd.t\ ~dl t:"b... tcJlh
proportioned. hand la'\tl'l.l f~mt\\C:lr than at nn~ wne 'incc thl· rrm.:lnmn ll'pplmg '1 tit.:

COLOR

hile black drc'~ .. hf,rs h.th' ah' np been con .. iderc~.l de rigueur f~H J.:~rk drv•'} 'uumg:-.
dark bn''' n 0n~·r~ equal re(incnwnt. ifrh'l superior ~qle Regardlt·:-.~ of thc1r lthl ·r. biJd. Jrt: "
,hn1.> "ill ah\.lp la(k the amiqucd brm\ n\ dc~·p patina :md changing lu!!hltgln-.: lu\1 .1 ....ttl\ .trtl

de placed on a poli .. hcd mahc lg:tll} rahlcrtlp imm~dmt.:h acquire' an cxp~n r\ t: :lUfJ. ll)p <.pulm
bnJ\\ nlearlwr slwcs invc:-l .111 (abric~" nh .111 rm4mgiblt• nchne~:-
ln £936. the k:.ulwr .1m il]uing pnJCL'"' "a.. final I) refined hl rhe ('lHnt "hen. n 'PLU rt::d
acceptano; of rhc- ~..-brk bro\\ 11 'hlll' r'-'r drc'') \\Ur.ted \H'ar I krc j, the ednnr" IC:'JXHl'L h J

r~a~.1~r\ qu~.·r) fmm ~~ 193(1 ,\p}'tlrd .\rts m.1g~1zinl.' on thl! cm-rt.:cm~~~ of'{ l)rdm.nmg ht•'-'"n
I ~hoes \\it h 1111\} .. uits:

D II.\ R :\ l R. E.; It was CtlSftJIJlal'}' rears ag(.) hl ll'ear 0111}' blLick shoes witlr &1tlnrk blur swt.
111 n:UI1t }'t'ars thrrc /tasl1ecn tl daidcd trmd ltHI'clrJ browns/roes, tl )f tl:i' /ig/ll (at1, brll tJr
dm·k an rique brow11 slmd.:. Siuct' tlrcsc tire' aJUJl15( JS cwrk as apair ~fblack shoe.£. their
aclaptiOtzJor u•c:ur with dczrk blue suits bl•ccWil. quite gt:n~rai.
At tlu prest'mtimt.', dark broll'll shoes an.· co11sidc.red torratmrd satijuttOI)'.for
wear with a dt1rk blue suir. U!!ht mn slroes tlri' uot nmsMercd appropriate.
~
---- ---------

I C) I

f OOT
DI C:(H C M
 PlJTTING 1.l)U R
BEST FOL'T FOR\\1;\RD

THE OXFORD HOE Thel)'Jord :-;h(\l'd~:.·ri'~-' (rom the O);L)llian . .l h.,lrbllOt with ,,de
lrb th:n lln;r gamed popularity ar l)xfc,rd Lnih~r:-iry in 18l10. The ">tdc slit ~ollll dcH·loped
mto J sH3' beL· rh.u C\enntalh... m(wed roth~.:' lll~tcnr .b . . tlt~J~m~ bc!!:.lll ltJ rebd a~i:t1 ~11!1st kncc ~ high 19 3
.... '""
Foor
.md .111kl<! lngh
... bunt . D C:GOIHJ.\1
The plnm c1p l"{k' axfiJrd hK~.: -up b th~.:· ba"i..- -.hlk' -;n lc !l.)r Slll:llT. rh~o>ugh tH •t 'rriLtl}
t'lxm.II W\\ n "~.1r Dc:-igncd tl) nwl:!t the ~...k·man~...{ ll.>r .1 nlllrc ,n lis h. Iightcr wctgln shoe t h<111
rhe full brogue nxfllf\.1 ~hoc. rlti, oxford \\ .1-. l'llC of rhc c.1rl) :;t) ll!...' ro t:1kc rhc.· pi<Ke o( btxHs.
I he 11.: c r.tp't\ punched hole. ar~.:· smncLimc!- rq>l.lc~.:·d br t\\l' natTl>W rm'" of srirch111g \\ nh a
n1und tJr hghrl} :-.quare plain roc or" i1h a 111\.'dallion dt:coratit)Jl. it j, the ~rJ.plc l)( m ~lll }' hu'-t
nt:" \,,trdrub · 1 hi-. tll\\ n .:-hoe\ :-111~1n lin~ i~ t:>nll<lllCL'd b) its beveled ··\\aisr .. the CL'tltt::r pl>r-
tu.llll>f th~ t~l~ that J0111" rhc frorn: with th~.:' hc~.:-1. a l~.uurc oralll igh[\h?ighr ·dwcs ;}~ l)pposcd (t)
the '"1u..Irc \\,ll"t u...cd fur more . . rout type:- :-uch .b the Illl'nk or '\.orwcgtan.
 --- -- - -

D.-\.rs~JNG
nu: ;\I' N

., .... . *"- •
, o· . .. • •.. u "
.• •
' ...
•

TH E \Af I N G- TIP B R 0 G U E Tlw lnw~h~ekd 1'lxtord rrimmcd "ith perlorauon-t stitdl

ing . ~nd pinki1 1brs knnwn a~ rlw brogue comes from I rei and and the ~coni. h llrghbnds t~enntrie
a~n. ir haJ nu hcd and ''•b made n( lhick. untanned deer hide'' irh the ·fl:rr mrnct 111e \hJrJ
~

'"brogue.. en me~ t"i·om rhc l~~lcl iC" brJg. which mcanr ttl pu~h nr~ &m lr.hrou~h. a. . wa.-. dnnc in d1c ~titch
ing oflcadk·r. ~ 1odenl brogues h~l\ 0n't borrowed much m1.rre Lhan the name from rhe ancient st)le
exccpr tor rh~ pum::hjng" rhm art:: known a~ broguing!l. The imitation punching~ thar dt.,.-or:nt:
rodm 'bn >gtiL'S once" ere acmal hole-. or sl.1:-hing~ m:lde to let water L:kun out ulth~-..c carh o. t
~ ~

ti~h shoe....,, whkh werL' ot1en worn" hile lording a !'ffcam or cra-:-.:ing 111<1fS.hy l.md
The Lradirional wing-tinr dre...;s :-:hue i!' ~ligluk lc~s- h1rmal dum the phun nr dcL·Lmut,j
~ ~ ~

(.lp-tqc: modd. lt.s ~omplcte broguing pt\lduce~ ~1 ~lighrl} bulkier. lc_.. , ~let"'k .appt•aranct.· .md it"
larger propnrti•Jns alk1w lor :t nwrc h~ll'lllti'niou' match "nh h~1' icr £l•xrun.:d !abnc.; :.uch a..
lln111lt'l.s. l.·ht.:\"kl[.<\. or t\' c~d "· The wing tip take~ i [~ 11:lll1l' rn.
llll I r. . [I. II? l"ap ~lmp~:d ltkc tlnr spread
wing" al- ~bird, pnil1rcd in rht..· cc:1ltc:r and ~xtcnding hl\\ard the rear \\ilh hcmrh perJun:nt>d
~ idC' -..ca 111.:-.

-----~ ~ ------- --~

 19)

Fo<'>T
DliCORU.\1

Tf r E BLUCHER \vhen Pnt~5ian general Cebhard Lcbcrccht 'on Bli.i.cher. nne o( N:tpoleon 's
more formrdnblc oppon•:nL'. Llccidcd that hi~ troop\ n~cdcd hL·nct· -.,hoes than the low-cur one~
the\ \\Ore with gaiter'. h~ commi,~ion~d :1 boot" ll h s1de pieces lapped oYer the fronr. They had a
I,JO~c inner edge
... and lacing aero'S the wnuue.
f.:t \ Vhcthcr or not tl11, l(lotwcar '-gave his inlanrn men j

.m ad,amage j, debatable. But Bliichcr'.s wdl-shod force,... did help \Vdlington rr::tmplc the Frcnrh
at \ \aterloo

Success beget~ imitation. <llld after Blikhrr participalt'd in '-'apt'lt.:oll·.; r:~mous dc(car.
the c;;hoc beanng ht"' n.Ime was adnprcd U} annie' rhroughllut' Europe During the I8')Ch. the
blucher C\Ohed into a tn•nd) sporting and hunting 'hoc, bm it \\'llSil't until the turn or l h~ ccn-
tll') thar ir dcbut~d a .t IO\\ .)hoe ror toWil :lfl~lirs. Distingui~hcd rrom t:ilrlicr shm·s h) dw for~
\\urd C.XlCJl'lJOJl of it\ {ILI<lt'h:r~ OYer the \'amp. the blucher ortt!ll itas :1 wnguc lilt' in (lllC piece
\\ ith the forepat1
the ITIOdcrn blucher j, a h~1sic llHidd for town . .SpOrtS. nJh.l Jeisur~ .shlll'" or OXI~H.J.
height BcGmsc at ~ide t;traps lend a sltghd} hcm'ier :tppl:ar:mcc l han ~.:he cln.;ed dtroat bee-up.
rhc blucher i a h:p ckm n in drc -.,i11ess from 1hr oxford. ~len\\ ir.:h higher in,.nk·' tend ro invor
its npcn·thro~u from fitst•.:ning. "hich permits more gh·c. ewer rhc in~rcp rlwn ''it h tlw clo~er­
fitting bal·tj pc (shan for lhlmornl. the (~u?cn· cnsrlt' in ;)codand) oxford.

--- ---~--------
___ j
 r -
-- -~--- --

D.Rt lNf;
l HI M ... l'i'

THE DR rs s s L l P- ON Back'' hr·n :1 m:111\ choict• ofdothl'' wa:. dictmrd rn dt~l!t'tC.:'

.. of
fnrmal i l). p~iri ng a ,( i p nn shoc'' i 1h d res.:- t"kH he:-" ould h:l\ t' bu.·n fru\\ n~d upon .t'- n t:-tu\ p.t ..
Hut wilh current mt:n·-. C1~hion (ul'leJ b) comcnience :md comfi~n-. lht• l•p nn ntn\..td.t~ "J

enjoy~ an equal footing \\'irh rlh.·lan?~ up for r.ulortxi bu~i11ess dot·he'.

ThL: imroductil'll of the low~r cu1. li~hnH?Jght
"-' ._ lraltan f~)O£\\e~tr 111 rht: mid t1fttt: h.1 . .
tcncd tllL·Iace-up·s ~lidc from sn, lc Stlpr~man~ The l'l:llnng
r ~
b, d1e American bu-.ine :-,man lihl"
l.. ..

n:nural -.lh)ulder .;uit' with hbck \\'e ejun' in rhe ~.:i:xric' p1r'agcd the gdt bm:·kll'd l,ucn
loafer'!' infiiLrarion ()r \Vall 5rreer\: btl:ll"l!n"~mn in the C\cntie' In the t.'ightt("'
... tlw '''-k
rc\caling lo\\ v~mp ~lip~on rl!nchcd :1 kind ur dubiou~ ubiqmt}
t\ (a.s:-.cllo:l r~r of :111\. shal)e. d~:-ign.
'
llrcolor\\ a~ oneln:~lh
.. U cnsuaf.,.IHw .lTl\.i r h~rchx~

11c' t?r i11 ten'-kd f\ 1r d0nning under rhe ClJ (frd '~l>hriety uf lhc dnrk: n:n} or gm} \\ l: r'"h.:d llln\
('\ l'!l"
t
(~rtain ·dip, on!' (:111 .St:.lnd ~idl· h\ -IJdl' wid1 the n·nic:tl
<l • t
hu.sim·--~ brogut~
'
in the :rtnkk pro
pri~t) dt•panmt.•tn. Th~.s(._' h} brld~ nrc us11a1l) appo111ted '' irh the tnllo" mg lan• up l&l..e
(c-nrurc~: \\L'It .sc,lcd brHTom." l~'r bcrrcr fo11t :-'-:ak· and -:tamre. drc"'~· bl:"pok~.: m-.pJr'-"ti \J111p
de ign~. and 1"1\ l.'rall dccor:n j, e under .. tat~nll't1l
 Fo oT
[;)f: C 0 R l ,\1

.t•..a••••.. .
.. . •
....
•
•• ,
•• • •
-

• , .
=- ,.. I ..
'
•

THE ~.,.~IDE-GUSSET 5HOE j. ~p:11kl'" Ilall. hn•'lt makL·r to ~L·cn \1CL111·in. ~,.lc,nrcd
muLh of ht' Iii~· to dc-.igning l~)t..'l(\\'Car rh~11 W<l'- e~t') m pur \.tll and t.the oil lt1 1g3~. ~11 dll.'

t~ll:l'n· urging he imented a ."lttlc? with ill"Crl~ or clastic Elbrk 011 \.·irhl'r 'ide. ~lad~ \\irh
"itrt·tch.lbk· gore.'~ nf rubberized cloth 1hat prc,~,.•mcd a trim!) firred ankle. his feminine? bch)l \\~b
de crib ·db, ~
Olh.' of the ()uccn\ ladiD
~
i.l' "the comfon t)( Ill\
I
life." As he de, doped this llC\\

bmnch of ~hocmakmg lhc "t} lc spread to. \mcrk:t. bel'Oillillg known as the ''l:ongrC:\:' g.tircr.. 01'
.. Ho"ton b lOt.
ft,Lb) rhl' d.tstJc sided men\ ,he·~ i~ gl'lh:!r.lll) coni"ined 111 the r~lr~?Ci\.·d \\c1rld of thL'
l.1.t,wm ltoL· aficiomtdo r\ Ion grime chnmpion uf 1hi' 1r.lllit iom1ll) lw"pnkt.· St) lc ,lr .,h0~.1~.1illg. 1h{'
f~1nnc.: r dean nf l nglio;;h 4\hn~rnakutg t ;e<'rgc l :l(':rn·rle} I~>' cd d1is model. hcG.Ili'C hc.? tell IU' u dIL~r
"ft.·. .tgn produced a bt•trer Fining -;lip-on. '" li'itumillg dte cxpo. . ed rb~tic .side gus:-;\::1~ with "mall
lt'.ltlter panel' r one \\:1} tl iurrhcr relining it. I ur thm...: i11 the kno\\ ~ulLll~H'lttrl:lle ClltlUglt tu
':lmH; upon .1 gtl\,d p:ur. dtc Sldt?-gu"~t't ~lip .. on is~~ \Cr}' .sl) Iish ~t1lutiun tt"' the busincs~ siHK'
.:unundnun nf comfort \CJ'll' corre~ttlc.:"'s
 ------- -
From t"r or(einal prim ad·
tf"Tia· t1m·e monkfnmt slrnes shL'Il'll /zen;
rl!a~ml}' madt' bJ' ufimrous Ltmtftm bookmaker,
arefrom l~fi to ,.(~lu a bntwu Cfl[{shot~
a ITl'Ct'Sed f"a!{slroc, (Uicl a pigt..kiu slror...

DB;tH i Nt>
THE AlAN

TH 11 ~ 10 N K- 5TRA P S H 0 F. U11c uf dt~ fc\\ anjd~s {'f app.1rd to t.•:trn ir~ n.tmt. hon
~...·~ tl}. d1t.• mcll! k · frun t ~hnc W!l~ lKtuall y pn trt' rnl~d after :1 q pe of fi-,on\ cnr \\lu·n fi1r u·ut ttrh'" an
run 'PL~n Jl 111011~l~tc ri~s. Lcgl'lh:l h~JS II dm t Ihe sn k· t'irigi n::n~d .am~mg !tin r' Ill 1he lt.Jit.lfl \ lp, Ill
thl:' fi!"rt.'t'tll"h CCIHLIJY
;
.\ \isit· ill~
t.
I 1t~lbl1
'"-
hrother\\a~ . . upf:lll~t-dh :-.o imJ:trc-.,cd h\ the.,tmJ)It(ll\
fl. l •

r>f the tnt.mks· sh('""" rhat he was prL''~Iltl:ll \\'Hh :t pa1r lit:.· wok rhcm b:t(k ll.' Lngl.md ''hl:!t'
tht: !;11• lc \\a> r~adik• adl n1rt.·d.
r
The modern mot1~ - l-ronr modd i. :1 lm\ fitting strapped hu~ \\Hh .m upper l"vm
posed of rhn.'C ~~~Lhe.r pitxt~.' . t\ bro:h.l ;;rr~lp .tLnJ'' the in~h.'P [n_,lCJlc; du\mJ!h .1 5.llldlc hud-.lt: (lll
dw sh(ll:, our,idt.: The nwnk-,trap·, tongu~ i~ broade-r than 1hn~~ w-ed m mo"t Jon h 1e'
,irahlc. tlw~ ennblin~ .1 more l-om1on ..lble fit around ·d w .1nkiL" rhJn till.~
\\hen· a d(lSl'r fir is dl'_ ~

l) pic:tl bel~ - up .shoe.

I1c, ntCL'' ~tppreciare the tnon k\ 'ltpcrb1) propo11illlcd -..mttrtllC"' .md ~at1bt:at p.m
'du
a:; "ell as it' irH~o:rmcdiate (urmalit). t"l'gi,t~.;•ring 'nma:\\In~rt' bt>t\\tX'n rh:u tll a slip un .UtJ J
lao.:' up . . hlk'. rs:.L'11li;_tll) pl:till ll)L', the tll(ll1k tlliJdd \.·:tn la.H1dl~ 't..ltne bnlguing. tfdl'sir~J IJ(lf11
bb(k c1lf tn bn,,, 11 rt'\llr!'cd c:1IC dlf' Jlll)tJk '!> e~.·onomirnll} eJpqut.~m fr'Om ~n.tblc' It to ~r-:t.:r~
In Ih' t:'t-l) n a d i' cr.!\e ran0'-"'C f Lrl"lll ..;e r..
(l

- ~ -
-- ~---
-
TH L. ...... ED r H . .TE
. lr ... Jcncr.tlh c )n..xdcJ rkn tlw flr~t L.. \ _'tghring ll( m.tlt' ("\tl\'11ll
ttc \\ 1thni m, methmg <..Hh~·r dun poli"iht."d kmhcr \)L'-·urrcd "hui11g the 192-4 l ntcn1atinn.1l
r I Hn.ltchc .1t Lon~ I l.mJ\ ~ k:-h..l l\\ brook l~LlUil rn Club. -1 here. 3~tndc rh~ ,·ega I (t?cL \J( the
Inn~ 'If \~a.lt!-' \mcri~m ''Clt:I) \\.1 rrc.ncd t() the first ll.lllllcl 'Lilt •..111d brrmn bllck..,kin
h , t:n'(; mblc IIJiJu~h !he l\('l\c.."r6Jn h' [lc ~ 'trtorial pn)dl\ 1ncs ''ere aln::ad\ legend on bu[h
~J \ t"rh~ \tl,mtK t:1 . . hton ob~cTh'r' \' t:n.: agh.1'f ar hi, ..;upptLcd brc..h·h
. oC good rasrt' 111

p "~rtrng rt..'h.'r"e calf 'ul'dc "a' then termed) O\:I~Jl-d' \\'tth ~1 -;un. th..'l les""C\
(.1 ..

t\ Jc 'CO !It''- 11lc.J the l~n nn..·\ J~~hion rt'<k . a ntal'k or

grc.lt l' ffcm i nacY .. \ 1.111\ men
._ • J Ill j.- 199
tllll quc'llll ned the ,fuJQ. 1:,,hion pedigrcL' "tdr..''-tcppmg rhcm bt.·c~w!-c oi rhcir l~e1r rhaL o;nch FooT
la(klu ... l:f tcR'~t'' ear . .~ppt:·artJd J.diGllt' and unm~nlj. l)ther" (~tiled rhem .. brorhcl-crccpcrs ·· Dr coR..uM
i
fu t:ulu f lUnd t ht; r\ , t
Gil( 'hoc hJO r.n.ht al ill .m~ t1

b.ro\\ n ~Jl1Liung Jl "--nul \'at In "l

mnt 10 ll) tn cod I h.:.·nJt ritll t .. on ti L
cnrrl·ct dntlte' tn \\L1I '' nh thun
I hmt:\CJ fit.,hlon ;ui·nh-r..., J i1 'pu.oJ
the ucdc ... u nmt'lilatd\ .1h It :ltlgh n
\\ nsn I tum! ~1lmo._ t a dt'l"cld~.. I.Ut>!
LI1Jt th lntt) t1u.lll) '-J\\ the ),~fn
~

\\ htn rhL '\ttt•dl.! c;h,,l fa.;.h

aon fin,tl1} did lur H rrnhd m
C't.tll"ptCUOll plenttuJt ·rf nHt'li
p

cnp we un ttl\\ 11 faq, I~ ,r hu ..ntt ,

unmg mbht·r oled b]u, ht.:r> f~;r
rhi? countY) and ml J~· h1!!h "'
C'} det Ill.' mr~dcJ, ~~)r '-pt

'purt~\~ar

B} llJP rhl bJ\)\\ n bu {.

ktn .il11.. t h.,1d !\0 inflltnth d f ngf1 h
:-p~) n i ng circle~ t hJt Ol \\ l:.'IJ dn: "'t'ti
lkir t:on,idcred hi.-.. \' ardmbc nun
Hrou·nsueJe or bttchkiu shoes ,,m b,· wow ,111 }'l'ar rorwJ pi etc "idmur ..u k·a.. t um: p.m l )n
i du~ oppo:-.n-e .. horc dll' 'L 'IIt.'n

"pon sml'll .n \ kad( ''' brd ,1 .tnd

Piping Rock clllllllf~ Club!- on L<)ng j,land \\ere '\.) cnamor~.J of the bill\\ ll l\\t.'c.!d J.ld Ct nd
gr:n ·tl:mnd- tron,cr cnmbi11ati•m that he \\ho .. rc~1lh bdcml;!ed.. itn.1n.1hh tlmslwJ nlf due;
~ ~ ~ ~

e.n-.cmblc "it h .1 p.tlr l,f thrIll'\\ buck--kin shoddin~s

\ VhiiL· dti!' timck·,, '} ml:h.'>lvf .tt'i~h..Kratic Britt·dt m,tc mak~ am tlung \\l'~rn \\llh n
;lppear mon: st)'lish, rhc brown ~lh.:'dc ~h''L' ~tiM) h.1ppen:-. to he suitnhle fur :til 'l:·l"<\Jl'l pt·ri~·~tl,
.sh.tded f<')r 1ight L"nlored 'Pr111g doth i ng, nnd rich i 11 nt.H -.o hm~ r\?fnll·mrnl lrw" IllH. t \h:igln
\\Or't"ed:- ~mel llnnnd .. ( )1Kt.' .;mitn.·n. matn afi~.·i\'JHldo~ hmr .1 tlJtt..th time tt.•turmn~ h. thL
• I t,..

,:; hi 11 \' ~ Ll r i~Ke:-> n f \-(,11\ c n t illnal mn lc I~ •lll" c:t r

'

-- -
--

,!OJ

FOOT'
D r: c I'll( lJ.\t

THE CROCODILE SHOE The ilrsr croc-udile k•ath0r

shoe l~'r men \\41S mrroducl.'d in £he :spring o( 19~" L()tlrll''>! o(
one Df I ondon's b~·rrcr knQwn boOl m;1ker'. It nll'r ''it h
in tJnt Mtcc~ umon~
... wdl-drc.:-:!'CJ [ngli~hmcn.
'- '' hu adontcd
r
tt .
for re~on .md mfonnnl t~Jwn \\ear ~ larn \m<?ric.a n~' i~itin~ ~

I n~land br~Juglu rhe hoe back hume tu in.Higuratc

~ '-
rhc E1ll
fashion l.':lsPn
l ikc.- the bro'' n buck kin ho(\ Lf• )codilt.: k·arhcr in a
dark hmtC} wnc .ltl(lrd_, \Cr~4ujlit:) \\ ltethL·r in :1 lllunk
"lr..tp mudd tell· rl1e \\Cekcnd, pl.1in cap t•)C I.Kc~up ltH'lO\\ 11.
or tJ,..,cl lu::tler lcrr rlw nin~r~L·nth hole. the sJu:dlw,c:d~.:d
t::r1 KocHie ho~.· oft~n.. tlw norm:1lly nwt 1r, shl)d ..,,iplt i~ t i.::lll.: .1
r:tn: opporllllllt) t\J Cll!''CL l1imsel( it1 S) bnriLIL ..,hccn.
 ---- --

DRl"SSTNG I
Tflf M.A.-.:

T H E N 0 R \ V E G IAN Hy th~ lllid t hirtie . \\•cll-dre.!>'~d \meric::tn!- h:1d adoptt:d t'\\ o lctrure

inspired ... huc.s. J -.l,p-01111loccasill \ll" \Vl''t'jllll nnll n lace -up mcxiel \\ith moccn in fr,,m '-.1JieJ tht
Nurwcgi:m. I )t"fingui~hcd l·w its snl~t-~t"l'L'
~ r ~
dc~ign. the i"orweuian fearurc'i ~
.1 \crnc.ll h.md r.,lJti"h
do\\'n the (t:nrcr ofit!i toe~ \Viti! hc:l\~y lcmlh·'r upptt'" and thick coumr~ sole . the ru!;_gt'lf :O....:onH·
gia11 \\'as buil r (or dw ourdoor~. · r~ ,d,l), the n1l st famou!' pttnre) or of cl1c '\:unH·gi:m qrtaet "hnc I"
the 1-rL'lKh !'hvcm·ah:r J ~ ~ \\'c$LOtl. \Vhen the broadcr-.shonJder:cd dl1rhing ni the Lnc L.'tghue~
II r.. . r clllghr hL)Id. \\ t'.'lon
. 's black scmi-cha,:-c lac.:c-up "a' one of tht? fe'' qua hi} hnr .. capable oi

..
bala 11ci ng rhc fttllcr-:\calcJ l~1~h ion~.

T H E S L £ P - 0 N ~~ 0 C C :\ S I N \\'he 11 (i~h were lc'~ rh:u1 tOrthcommg on' t>gt:IJJ fi~h

~rman "ould pass the timL' b) :-litchitlg tngcther pc·a~am ~hoes. nme of rh~,l ~t'nh"gl.lll
.. 10
-

"t'n: expurtl..'d rorsah.: lO Great Brit.lin .•wd dunng rhL' 1')30S \menC:lfi!' wunng london dJ'
((1\cr<:'d rh~ Osk' impmT-<1 Gl='ll:ll ~li~"' t'll1 with a moccl~m -s r~,l~ fllmt
- tr~1ngcl~~ tt·w;l~ dw ~l'rwegi:111 :md mn the Indian "h(1gaH· tl11.:: nh ~C.1'1H II"' b1gho'"'
:1~ a ca ... u~l fn~hinn. Pr\.'vJ{lllSI}. thc- Indian moo::a ...m :lppcarL"d mo,lh a' soli_, .,fed L."":unp ~~~Ot'\\ eo~r
11r a bc:1dcli bedroom slipper. ='on\ l'ginn dt.?signct-.. w.:rc rhe fir't rn cop\ the ":\,Jtl\ ~ 1\menc.m,
idea oi itherting a plug l)l'll·atlwr L(l con:r the l~1rcp.trtof the t1mt and then h.md ntd11ng tt hJ a
Cl)Jllblnation .sole :md uppL'r.

--
 -

.203

f tJOT
D L\ ORU,\1

\\'uh rhc hdp of rhc.loc:1l l~i~hing indttstn. dl t' ~o nvcgi:Jn-. began producing lc1surc
"Iipper th.u turned up at ;man Continental re~ons .md sekcn:d Curopc.111 cn1c~ \ ,..,lli11g
\m~rican manuC1crur~n- brouglu them humt: and rc adapted the ungm,ll \ llll.'ncan lnd1an
nncnttOil I Ierc\ a man\\ ho rare!; srood on cercmon). the'' ell-heeled Jin11n' '-,tC\\·an. luafing
ahour 111 J p.1ir of\\ ccjun'.
Jn the r111d thiniei;, the G. I I Jh,s com-
p<1m rt.'giStcrcd the name -\\ eejun." "hich. nlc1ng
"ath at.'\ mtKGl in roe and diamc lJKI cutout pmtcrn.
6cc.unc one of the mo"t n.xognized models of this
popular ne\\ genre. rtl,o km1'' n .1~ penn) lu.1l~... rs.
lnm.tll} \\urn n .Jii.ummcr~hoe in ;md amund thc
•A•• fiTq
homr thl' \\eejun ~l} lc ~lap on b~c.1mc the }c,tr I ~ · ·· · · ~·
a

round '' orkhlH-..c of many 1Jh:n's r;t,ual :-.ito!..'

\\drdrl'llx- lcJd~l} bolrr maker... I :\I. \\{:-_'-H1ll and
John I obb produce rcnJmon" lh,'lt cnmt? a~ cln.sc
h.l pL'ntlh.:' from ht:.1\ en .. ~ po. tble I
J
 -

DRI ,_:. f Nu
HH ~\1" ..

--
nff~•I..HWCar h:h in~pir~d lllUll} ufl:,llPOP,; hO\\L'\Cr, i1 j.,

P n.'~L'nt~;.·d hl're in rr' nri~inal fimll . the m ~·

~
l'\I d~t

.mkle buot. l )ri~malh-. brou~ln tnt he \\ t_,_,, !"rom lndin

~ ~

b\ Lhc HriLish
I
l~lJ·. Lhcv dubbed i1 '\·hukka." :1r1cr the
I

pl:l) illf!, pcrilid in pulo. l )ftl'll unllul.·d :111d fiucd "irh

a Je.nh~r ur rubber .. ulc. thi' fidd ~hnl' c.111 ir\:'qth.:ntl)'
bl· fonnd ens("t il1Ccd undt.~r a p.1ir L,( llm11lt:'l' or ~ord~.
in either ~1 .slllol'lth tnn calfskin or a n'''e1 :-.h.1dc l}r

"uedc. l(irrcd out in 1} rolcan ('hapL':Hr. ~Cl)tti~h ~her

land ~port coat. and [ngli ... h llll)k~..,kin trnn~cr!'. rhi,
t:btditlh• aitircd roiT rl!:lllinn~ the ~..":hukka\ lllll' rll<l

1ionnl rankin~.
'-'

_J
-~--

L----
~ur )f Jll"'bdtn thl· l~mou ... <...Jurcrlo<lf~r rrinm11.:'d "irh :1 btt l,,- gd~..lcd
~
hoP•e re~~1li:1
'
nHilillltL'' to
n.: '"lll.1t~ ~h k \\ h~thcr in bn..1wn leathl'r forth~..· (\.'~llh'PQiiran'~ g.rar thn11d~ ''r black ... u~..·dc
\\lth Jug '-Ole f~lr tTil: drm ll£0" ll urbanite. tilt' (;lKCi Joal~·r I' ,UJI Clllt' 1..1l:th1..· ~l"'l(tt'Sl. llll)~[ ~..·um
tl.•rr.L1bk· c.t~>uaJ, in t~r tlut of W\\ 11
]n 1<)66 rhe I h.m~c •Jf L~ucn "''H~Ir .
... lt:llldcdh rc\ j,·~..·d intcn.·,t in th~..·ir (anh.ltt!- ~liJ1 -<J11,
,,hu:h h.t. 'Pd\\lh.:-d more imir..1ril'th [h,m :mr other :'l') lc l\( mak· l~'lt)r\\l.'JI". H) rh~..· carl) :\~\t'll
ttl'' \\,til 'n·eet imeqmenl banker~ rook h"l appl,illling tht.'ir Cl'rporare ch.1Jk ~tnpc" "ith Titrn -
JQ~
)

bull & \:-...L'r 'Pf""·ll1 (t,II.u~. llcnne' f~._)ur-in h:md~ 111d l;ucCI k~~uhcr ..,Jip on'. \ L" IT i"~..·w tn~liL' FOOT
~~WL' dl'l,tgn.; '\lit'\ iH? l he ug:li'IL'~ or high l:tshfl'll. I.'IUt llll"'l!'L' t h:it1 thin\ ) l'Jr~ l:ltl'r. ( ~tiCCI\ bltfk ~ DECORuM

l~d ,oJe~ o( coml~u·r h.t' ~- .;r} Je mi1t:agc [\., "P 1 rt'. Duuglns Fa1 r~.111b Jr. po~cs i11 rh i-; i(l)ll t ll ml -
inn a~ti.llm.lll hip

Dorcglc1s l·iu'rballksJt~ in Gucd lof!{t·rs.

J
 I --- --

DR r s., I SG
TH! MAN

Famed Hol~·woL)d costume desig11er Adrian,

cosstted itt the classic white buck shoe.

TH E \ V H ITE B UC k ".l1 artie!~ oC it1t.>n\e.lr bl·uer q·pafit?d t~he po"t\\,lr tn·nJ tl'''..trd
relaxed sryk· than t\mt?rKall "hire bucks. Tlk'ir slightl~ ,cuft~J Jppt•arJUC<t lent thun thJI

nr
IiH:d i Jl cha racrer $0 chan1(ll'ri'l it l he ("I 'Uill f} ':- nnmraJ· . .1mulder fil,luon l mqud) \ml n
can in r heir undc r-.t ..tttJd ll~mpt?ram~nt. Llw \\ hitl" buc..k,kin cl'.ford lan.· llf' \\ll"h u' n..:d n1hh r
soles r 1rsL 'IL't"\l'J ,)', CtJtn(()rt~lbll "lllllll1L'I~:lCCOlllp.111il1Wnt tv l"e'~<)rt dmht?' \H'fll 10 tht ~trl\
r9 ~o.s. Larer c..'ll rc.,ourccful comtmtter' di~(L'' acd rlmt t hL·~e .:-t:Hnl; 'ucde' comporrt<d tl1l·m
~ekes coualh
"1
"dl on sh.~annI
4
!-illlli111Cr pa\'l~mcm~ under lighn'
._-
l?tQht
'-
{!abardme ~~.:cr,.,ud l r
'
l'f

trnpictl \\L1r:-rccl SUir'

Bmdt~r~ Hrotlk, li'•Cd lf..) make tlw ,ine quLl non uf"himbut:k' rng1.md 1 ht:\ \\ciT
111

thL perfect Cll111panion tL1 t h,· 1r:1~.i':-: well-" orn kh.1l..i pnnt, ur madm, 1\c.: rmudn ... L n1~'nun tch
tin· l~ruoks' J\1-tt'i,h ~lriginal i:-; )l'{ ;1!1udwr c t'u dt~ of tlw compml) \ n1!>.h t l d.i\t:'r IL~If '-fIt
...
old-nu:1rd hernaoc. HcrL' '' l lt)lh• 'Ot1d's !"tlm\:'d CChtume JL'~£ncr \dnJn ~llJ('\ mg tht c. lh
b t' ._.

:-pnkt!n luxurr ol~hi~ \\'0rll in bw.·b

----- --
- - ---------------------- -~----

John Lobb daim, ll.) han" designed the firo..t .:-.pcct~uor :-hoL
fur cracker .1round 1~68. It":-. prob~1blc rhat the shoe\ cnn ~
rra-.ring dJrk l~arhcrarc.ls-iL' counrcrs, l,Hsal strap. toe cap.
anJ tacings wcrl' initi.1lly dc,Igncd rhi~ \\U\. bcGlu..,c the)
had to'' idi,t::md th~ most '' t'~l r during rhc ngon. 1.11· 'Pl'HT.
In the j.lu age. the ,IJoc "a.:> ktw'' n :-~~ "rhL' currc-
'ipondcnr " iL" rwo tOJh.::d rcm1r a.ssoci:ncd wi£11 thu~L' ~had)
chnrncrers \\Ito sometime.'~ acted a t"Orrc,:.;pondcm:-- in
dthll"fCC.l~c .lt\\,lSoriginalh de:-igncd
J '-'
in brll\\'11 willo" c.1lf
and \\ hJtc buck or reverse calf suede. \\ i Lh black box calf
often . ub,nrutcd for the bra\\ n lear her. \11 essential pan~,,(
the tltirncs rncln:_t;m~m or holidar 'ports \\ ard robe. t hi~ t\\ t•

toned lace up\ unusual contra r l)( tcxLurc ~111d col{w e'en ~
tuall} bL'c.1me knl''' n in rht: ~t:ue . . a~ "tht> spcn:ltur ,.
·Iixla} the real ~deCor (an be acquin·d only thruu~h
th~ Jllspl~..:s ol the bespOk·l! -,!Joemttkl'r l,:(iUrh~S) c.)f. lllUtk'l'll

commerce. m:~nui.lcntrer h.t,·e replaced this prdigr~cd !~hoc's

autht:nttt. ''hire ~uede "irh a ch~1p nnd :-,hin} ")JiritcLit: lrat her,
effecu'd) dimnmring the d:tss from rhis summer cb ,jc_

Gmrgt• Cersl!u-irr nud Jniug lkrlin 11'iuging it iu

14
t."Ofl't'5pt.lltdiugu spatcllors

... -
 r 11 L I) RE SS SL IPP ER Its ~~~1rd to pinptHlll the exan Wlll' or place \\hen .1 I }J\JU ;\rh n

l\ pe mi~ht ltm h'ntttr'L•d ouhtdL· hi' IHHl1l' or d11h '''Jthcd in a pJtr ,f dtg nr h(•U~ 'hpptr
1.,;

.'t!t.-h .tn l'\"f.l ... ton llllt~l h;l\t• f~,ll~.m l•d du,t.:h on the ht.:d' .o f the mndt:nl dmner Jn. .·ll·t (.; 1 1,
pub]it' \.'XCUI'!o..!t)JI'
l·nl dw m hl·r nppard wagm.H cJ ll\ ro} ~tit} or Iugh sout L) Jn..._, "'•pp~." J, r mu1 m h r
·.utght dw publir r:mc~ \ tde from lite CC•Iit ,,f ~udt a one uf a ktnd furbd,m tht urn.lmt.:nh:d
\I ben .;lapJ:.wr r.1rd~ n\ l:-.:.;~d path~" ith tlw JH'ra1tc m(m Pan llf n:. l'ltth , tl:g.un .tppt:.ll \\it tts
Jlt!'ider d11C. 1.. }m· a} ... , • llt:('dl'd cuniiJt!nn· in CHH' s O\\JJlJ.s1e ;tnldm~ abuut Ul1\\ mpathlit\ t p

DRL"'SIXo n 1l H r1:s iu •l p.1ir \1f 1he..;e t•lu i't 1r.1 ~~pmg" ..:m lid t~.:'">l rh&? Jl prhs nf an} 111.1 n !'> m.Jdw.rn~
liH J\LHi
. \ ·dippt!r i-... a gl:'twric 1ype n( "ihLlC 1tul a pan icuhu· :-.t\ IL' tndudmg :t \\ 1de \ :triL·n nf
f~'Ol\\t':lt'f~x mnu~ tl~c" "Iipper~. \\ hflh t•ttJ hel1l\\ the .\nldt.> auL· ~hppcd on L,nd held h, tlw f till

'' idtnua :U1) 1:1S!L'11ing The pu111p t~ .l lippe1·.. t:'\ i~ rht: ( )J'ieutdl b.1huuchc \\iLh turnuJ up H1\:
To break ~m . n trcnn old !:1-:luunc.J h li!IIL
.Lhl

l . Iipper assoctation '

~nnH.: m.mu1"Jrrurl·r.. ('~tii~J the
indour ~ourduor r~ pt.• a :-.lip- on
I kre\ Cecil HcJit.'n :md ht•'lt:t: t uaordm:urc
rl~a ~In:-. well maHng merll at tlw \nt1bc~ H.tll m the
~nut II of I mnrc drca 19}.;. 'h·ung Hcmt'lll' c.: n rmblt '"
\\onh t!xantinalion. as iL dtiJtl'"~ murL' dr~"' '\."UJt::- th~tl
rt I~ lllllw. Lih;> nne of hb lcgCJubJ] photogr,tphk 'II
1ing~. "h~rc Ill' "ottld imbue .1 mentbi?r ~,( rhL bt.:. u
tllllntle "ith a hd~h.tem?..:f ~u1m l'"fgbmllllr lkJt.lll1 h. 'i

Llmh' Jlluch dw ~am~ dung her~ dr~~ing Jm, n due\:

llOJ'Illalh Ull!'datl"d \\ t'3r:Ihfe, of Ullitnpt:.::lrh,tblc Ll'{L
I
•1

bcspt)kL· suit. ~1 dn:~sic T ~hu1 . anJ a parr of hl.trl dr. . ~

pump.... -, ht· tiuurc :-.ir \.~t~.:il rran...ct.:ndeJ mnc plact
nnd , qgtw to bl'come IilL' much of'' hat h~ toudwJ.
pc:nnnnl·ntl) fn~htLmahlt

LEFT
Crdl JkdtoH nwakinl! (iln 1't'tmou in opt'm pump!.
~

T 5/m·t. unA nllt.

OPPOSITE ;
Dul'id Ni1'm \l'ith tH'o got;geotL' clif!tlr~rr dlid
motlt,__t:rammcd s!~vprrs m hn'.
--------~--------

[ ~--~ ---
 TI-lE PO C KEl- 1IA. DKERC IIIEF

11 \ l.t} l lJ~- \pparel \rt5. the men\ ( t:,hton btb1c dcdarl!d rht: pvck~:l hnndkt n:hH:f :.u1mJt:: .,~
l!t,hlfm chauge- In od t~.:·r word . ''hun dt-:og:mn: penuchc.aJI} retun1rd w th~ fllrdi1tin i men t:t h
It 'Ill. !:10 lHd rlk· pufTufp:Ull'rtlllllllans brt.·a-.t pockt:t \ \\tth (~tJk·rnruf:Kl,of'JrCiuJ ••J ~ l'lt"h tiL.:
l-t\'tld 1 cufr~ ,,r ~1 c<1ll.tr b:u: the jn.:-k.:t ·f\ cht''·ll hnnukerL.htef .tdd,.. .1 ri1w~.lung wnrh u.~ til= t: n. mhl~
21~

Dl~ll ~.s I·'·<.;

I luPin\! the cnrh; f~r-nai"
~·
.1J11·e luwrfk.·rd1id~ \\L'fc cdnl-lidL·red an L""l"'lll:t.tl antd liml'
n rt ~\·1 A N t i•1n. tl ~teet·)\~" '} r\~ the ..,j\:ICL'i1th c~·nwr~ iutellccnl.ll gmnt J r:t"-'inu:'; nm~d · ·ro \\ ipt:: '1 u1 flll\t'
llll )(lur ~lcL'\L' \HlS" bnl)l"i:'ll. ·I t.,ndkerdu~Jf, gr.tduall} brc.11m::: more ornate ~\(!lllUJJl "tr\lllP,
.1:-i rokrtl-" t ,1- ~l L"tmpte\ loH? l~lr c~tch ot Iter h eq n.: .. pecrabh..: m.1le c.lfn~d .1 h.lndkt.·rdlll t' and H1
rhi:-. d~l). it i" collsidcrl'd :1 ~}'lllhul ,,( gcnttliq and M cinlt~mk

l11 cighrccndt (Ctllllr} l:11gbncl. the pPpular ~nurlh.1hir ~1nd tts coucmnn.mt .trt ul "- '"
taining :1 ~Ilt't·zc hn1ugln men\ h.1uk.<: i1110 thl' d1:.1\\ing room. B~ lhe muctt.:s.::mh ~entun tl1c ordt
llill') • \Jnl·ri\2~m fanner in tilL· I >eL·p ~omh w;·b mopping his bnm \\Hh ..1 ...-nnlm \\.'f 1m1 Hf tbt

origin:tl silk print llllJWrted fn,m lndt.1 I ht 1ra

litiuu tnr cuiPrL-d han\.~kctrhit.'fi gr.tdualh g~tl
loped '\t.)Uthwcsl aJqng \\ 1th t lw t:U\\ b.o\
rht.. Roaring 1\,entu"' 'a'' a ,i1.1rp n'c:
in dccut·ativ~ handl cruhtd. ,,,.., the P1'11lCt' c I

. ' Ii"h drc''l?f harmon i:1cd h," h.mk .md

mtH't.' SL'

lit· but did nor march it' iabnc ~,r c~..,lor B\ dtl
rhi rt ic!\ \\ell -drt:~:-ed men carnl d t\h '1f dtt.:''-'
app:trd uple. .
lmmcdmtc .lCCJl'~" to .1 hJndl.t:r:du~.:f t'-
cmcia1. wh~rhcr h.J hl·nd ofr th.u unt:\f'L'Cl~J
_, tll't'Zt' or ro map up -;prlled champ.tglH I '\ur
in~ \\ orld \~nr 1. uujj~lfJTJcd
~
ll1fll"l'l"" \\ th
tight!~ 11app~d pocket, ~achn:~ thdr lundku
t·hid:..; "trhin 1heir coar slce' e\; """ tlw t~HJU!!
i.1d:l'l ,, id1 it!- bn.:!a't pockt t .. uppbm~J t ht·
irnck .:o~u. d1t• "nne f\ lr bkm IH "' \\.1 "' If( h

From tlte 1930s

rue ked :m .:n ur thl.· unfbppl·ll ft,;.ar trlnht.: r
right up to todar. ptKket "hilt~ tiTL' -.)nt: lor . . hm\ln "\\J..., pt•rma
pockt:t handkcrcltic:Js m•m h• di:-cp~n e.J in lhl' J.Kkt."t' brt a'l plX h t
•
l't'ntuin symbols q[ '···.:-c 1he ad\cnt llf rhc rm.:n It ungt
sa r1\Jria 1gw t if if)'·
.. uit in the btr ninetcl.·nth t:t."tHun .11J rr.1d1
tionnl h raih.lfl'd C:\lfll' h.n c ~~ JlUI'l'.d .1n .tppn
•

l --
\ p&tt i breast pocket mu d~(~11ed to displai'
c: pockn hundki•rd:r~f

1\t <'ES~ORffS

l,n.uch antrk·d
~
l:J
ch~"t pocket 11ot lor ciuarct
::.::')
tc' ur ~1 p.tir ~~r rcadi11g !!Ll''L"'. but L•l Lii . . nl,n
L,..f
H bit tlf
L"" I

imt'h \\ uhom 'onw ttlnn 1..1f pl)ck~t rigging. an ullt~ide hr~.·ast pt lCkct JPJX~<lf'· 'llperflth.>ll~. ~111d
the nur lit in(ompk·tc
I11 the bilk} Llll petiod r.( 111<1lc..: ck~gathT. nne \\ nuld hL' h:lrd prc,,ed to find :1 ~,hlllP or
unt.: nf the "bo}':· without cl prupcrlr dn.:-:,cd (hc:-t pnckL'I. F1lr each ol- r·hesc l,rnllh.'tht:~ln
dn.:". ~r' the plKkcr hank .1ffordcd )C'l ~tnothcr opponunir) l"\1 exprt.'\'- his ll\\11 indi,idtr>llit}
f ht.: pi..ll;.·b_ t h:tnLlkt::rchicr iS part of tiJ~ uf maleS[} ic rh:H CCIII\ 1..') S llH ll't' th:111 )ll'l ll'a
IlliiHtiWL'

~.ltth'll tht rn.mn\.'r IJl \\ hi·-h 11 i.s di~pla} cd c.m be a~ d1s1 inguishin~ ~1' it' ,:o;dcctiull.
l )n rlw it,Ucm mg page. cl1c I )uke ni \\ i nd!'or ':-; ~ubi i me chic rl.'~idcd in d 11..' ca'l.' ;md n,nu
mint \\It h \\ hich hl· "c. lrl' dorht•' p11Ckct dccc.Jr i nd udcd -, h,Jugh the l )ukc folded hi:-- tiC~l tl} he
\\on them .lt ,,dd .mglt•s witlm1 tht• breast pocket ()rhcr C1mcl1 [lshil'nable~ :1dd\·d their~,,, 11
t\\ 1st ( Jf) t ~ mnt Ill\ Jored lw;, 't' di-.crectl} th.H it !ilk' rnrnt:r sla IH!\ tU\\ .1 rd hi~ I:Kt>. l"olll ran t n 1L~
CW·lom.ll) Jngk· puintmgout rt)\\.trd the ~ltouldcr I red \~t.11rr hknltt• \\c..lr hi~ ~ilk ~qu:tn:'' 111:1
putr l~1ld tlmt h~ .1llegcdl} inh·m..:d. (Jar} L\1opcr Sf1(H'tcd his :tl" ir ~1n ~~rrt·rthnught. '' ltid1 hnb
nubhcd h.1ppll} \\ tth l11~ curled up ~.-(lll:lr~ :md cctsunll} .l'>ke\\ th.:d. rit:".
\ I.Jic hahllimcnt i.._ n dml} 11111111.1C'\ lh:u publici} tr:msmit ~ i n:-.cl'tmJbl~ pri' .\!(' tnG~o.:.tgL'S
\\ htlc pL•rmancm f:t"htoll' like rhc shrph··rJ'<> chL'ck necktie. d1c GJmd hair pol<' co:1r. ,,r hl.h:k
cnl(up.:rn pump-. arc .1 t~·" of thi ql, ... tk l.mgtt.lg...·\ bctl'\.'r kno\\n ~..yc ...:11es -.o i~ 1hc ~implt•
\\ hn.: h.mdkr-rlltic{ fi."'dm mu't 111L'rl .1\ ntd dOJ111ing one. l~nring thm d1q "ill dL, It incl)rn.Ytl~
h~tJh •'r both ImJgL:' \\here t:ht handl...t·rl"ht ....f j, so cnn~pi'-"'ltoth dt,n it· appc..lr.. rc.1d} LU balloon
IIU.ll p.tl"~· l lr pni l'd J«, .1 m1Jlc napkm rl.'lll fl>rc...· rh~..· :n er.l~'t' 111:111\ dr~:~d of the plllt'IH t;d Gut~ p.l~.

To the 1.: .. snplu"tiCJ.t\..'{1 man. thl· pnckct 'tlll.tn.' 111.1} ..,lTill :111 crfete llnuri:-h. )t'I" a C.lsU.tll} (oldcd
 CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT
Th~·
Dt4hc sct~gccl Jus,
Cary Gra11t trrcgulm·Iy auglt!d llli.
f-red Astt1in· pt![TJ-.lded his,
a11d Ga'l' Cooprr ploppt•d hi.~.

•
 -----
1
.L -

\\ lll[t: ha11dker.chicf utter~ the· quid~l'Sl :md lr..·a~t

~'Xp\?n,i\L' ''a~ tn lend 4~ mcdit'~.-r~· sui l .1 llll'n.·

c.'f>C'l't\ c loc.lk
'lin~x· mo'r dn.:~s~} ~uir' arc paired "id1
,t.-.hd "hue. blue 01 "h1te gr0und pattc'J"Ilt.'\.{ drc"~
·h1n'. rhi' color f~·mn:n aflord..., the ... irnpl"· "hire
hJndken:hicf :1mplc opporrunif) ro pn'' idl· all the
b.L,ic pnmp Jlct:;d~d Tlwrd~Jrc. rhc tl r'-t nrdt.'r lll.
busint?"" j, tl' learn h,)\\ to pr\1pcrl~ :;pon lHlc l)l'
tiW'\:' \\ 111! L' llUI I lbl' r~

rhough [he lnll1ing of ;] hnnk rt't.lllirc~

mtnJful L".m.·. like the n ing .
.... L'f a bow Lie. rlw lllll"t
impw ram dung ro remctnb.t.•r t'> dun it:-; dcplH·t-
mcm 'hould nppc.1r un mdied . d"f(..,nlc ... ,h con-
rnbutin!! to the m·e,-:~11 aph-.mb. PaniLularlr
bcc.lll'L~ nf It' 'tar1 counterpoint w rhc dJrk ..;uir.
the \\hire linen qtr;lrc no.·d.s ro be irrc~ubrly C-011Sp1cuous pockr:t dt'cor
detractsfrom tlu· H"lwk
.lrr:tnc~..·cl. "uh 1l" pornEs neither marlwm~ui~..·~1lh•'
~
'------------------
c\an nor tlnnened n~ if prc:-~~cd "ith n n.'lling iron.
Lik~,.· .1 .~uod ha1rcut,. rhc be~t - fnldc-d "-lJLLnrc.., <l i'L'

uh~.·~e th:ll d\;l mll· dr.m attcnrldn to rhcm .. ch cs.

l)llC \\3\ . .
[I) eJICOllrag~ r!Jj.; h.h:k vf \-l"lllll'l\;lJICt.' IS

-- -..,
tt, gngl~
"-
the h.mk ~I i£!1nh ~)utwnrd tOW<lrJ rhl:
""-~ I

houldcr Thi. po:"itioning noL onlr rcintorct:.., till.'

dsagon.IIIiJlc nf Ule j<h.:kcLT' bpcl bur :tcCt.'llltl:llt'"

the dtt: t\ \ ... hapl· .md "houldcr.< brc.11..hh.
AlthDugh lo11g con~ide.rcd tHllL'\\ hm p.h~l'.
clu.. \l]LL1J"C '"T\ .. h'lld ~ain~d pupularll) back in 1 he
19)U" \\hen C\crnl of ,\mt.'rici\ tdc.:\i.siun c~.:-kbri
tic" be~m1 ~
to cn:.a!-c rbcir' in .;uch a manner Th~'(l~h ~

PJL'~Jd~~,Jt 11.:-~rq ' · rnlman . •1 htJ'f11l'l. h:lhCI\1.1'-Iwr.

aJl,pted th~ same sq le. d1c rrcnd !:tiled ro Ctldurc.
prob.tbl} bc.'Clrl'>t ns purpo..;eful s~mtJtf•try c:omm -
\ «.:ned the .111 l~'rm·~ under!) iug spnm.mci t )·
r he best sii.C I~ H. the pul'kCl h.1lldkPrchic(
. I
b t 1l: I 6
n
tlw ~ubrlc
to Jti inch quilre. and. like
hand stirchl.'d edge t'l" n find~ railoreLI jnckt:>t lapd.
iv rxpn"t.: d pntm ~ :md ctlgt.!.-t nt:C\.1 to bl' rolled :md
"intchc..xl b} hanJ l~tr g~nuin~ rd1llcrnem llerc nrc
Tht st[ft..TV"Jold.
11ft..\\ \\41~ stu fi,ld rhc o:;olid linen ~quare.
 ,~
---- ~--- --- --- -----
\Vhilc dw white hath.ikcrchief ,,jfla)\\::l)s bl' mailable to f31J back upon lt1\ mmt Pll

10 the :-ulid coil) red hank. Altll\)Ugh the pocket handkerchief can rake its coordmate.c; fr,m 1 '-

eral C'nmp,,nent~ within rlw tailored Cfllllpnsilion. the ltt.. \ cnl11r and pant:ru usuall; dctennme
it clwi(c. lkcau:-e dllrh~ ~h(')ttld hdp ~·scon rhe 1bscner\ C}e td\\an.:l the lac~ mcrrh nwrdJ
u:ning. or worse!. m~uching :t rie and h:mdkerchief is not only a "ign of an un ure drc.:\st•r bm a)'"",
n 'ure \\:1\ to lead d ll.'' l'\' c.' acn'"' thr bod\ :md a\\ a\ from the face. 1nllowmo thi' logtc
I I ,J I ~
.1 -. lhd
cDiorcJ h:tndkcrchicf ~h~)uld only be tn:Hed wiLh a paucrned Tl1:'Cktie. nnd it td~alh "hould nm
hl' {,(the s<1111C culor: a~ thc grnunJ ~h:1dr.:• 1Jf the IIL'cktje l)ll dv" oppo..,itl.! pag..:' i~ an t•dn lf

DR F~ .SJ f\h: in((,rmcd r~_·,pnns,~ to :111 Esquire r<... n~oler\ qttCI') . drc:1 19':16.
TJf r Al.H\
l\ I.Hing tics ~nd or di[(l'l\~lll li.."Xturcs ;llso helps keep them From apprarmg lU
hnllks
hrackcr the chest. As a general rule or dllllllb, a ie".s !-iilkcn lu'>ter calls f~:tr matH~· pod l't !'quare
I ,J

like linl:'n or cutt'-''111. Ct)I1\er.sdy. a \\ll<'l••r linen necktie \\ith a dulled surflce requm.:-. ahc
upbc.::u lu~tcr or a ~ilk l~ntbrd. 1\ ((ltllnrd h:mk !\hltltld fit cmnfunnhl) into the pod..u \\ithnut

L___ J-- ----

j ~---------------------------------
- - - - - ---
------------------------------------------

,1-
- I

A CCESSORJ

\Vearing a matching handkcrchiif

and necktie is a sure sigt1 ofatl
wrsophisticared dresser. A solid pocket
hank should echo a color in the nl!cktie,
shin, or jacket.

- ------------------------------------------------------.
rOR~fUL,\ FOR I IAN DKERCII J r f'-

Gentlemen.
Kindly suggest colors and design~ of handkerchiefs (dress) tCl

wear wirh combinadons of plain color white. blue and brown shuts \Vith
blue and white vertical stripe; with wide light brown stripe on whirc: and
with solid color brown suit; grey suit (dark): or with a spon combination
of unmarchcd coat and linen trousers.
Very tnrly yours,
Denton. ~1d. L F. C.

Breast pocket hamlkcrchicfi may be 4 similar s!Jude to either tht· tit wont. iii ba~~ounJ
color, or the colors cifits.figures or stripes. Altcrnatil·dy, it may be. ofa srmilar shade h, the
sllirr wom, or its srrip!S or patt~nas.
If it 1.: possible to srcurc a IIaudkuchiif wllicll contains colors tlutt arc l,oth in
the shirt mJd tie, tlrisfteqctently makt~ a smart combinatiotJ.
It {s undesirablt to match tlu colors txacrly. llS tllis looks stwlird.
I
L ---~---~------~-~- ----------~ ____ J
L --~
 -~
--

'--::tggJ ng •'~" bulk1 ng n up Ht fl rP hu, ing

nnt: HlU might \\.mtt) tt::~t Jl"i ulumt:
b~ fir~t plwnp1111! 11 111 Hur bn~t"l
pocket
lu afFcG a nJtural bot lht
smoother ... u, "qunres rcqum.: ~ h1t
mun.~ dj]ig~nc\; in furlmg th~ut the
, I
- .
I
perlq. sn1~ Jt attcnuon lmt n~ \\ hen
DR.fL. Sl~G khrcd up in 'Oilk 'r.: r"nm of dll' puff
nu M l.,. l fuld t '' i th or \\ l tlwut ars po11H -.hm\
in\!. the l~ntlard handl~L·rduef !'lhould
'-'

re-;r in d lL' brc.tM pltCkct m 1 ~1 :\Itgin

angle \ ... "1tl1 n~ luwn Lt. nfr~;rt. .1
dmgonal ~etting fo t.cr' .1 ft·,.., (".tku
hned. lllllr~ jaunq '\\.Jill
ignnr lhrber.1 h.t~ de h.: rl\.
~

configur(!d h1 pnntt:d ftmlarJ tn ~W\

put I kn· \\e '"c the mac,tm of nu\
t'ir"t t~'11l1 i1 rccrangtdarly in the T\' m.mncr bef~Jr0 lll(king it mer nn\.-e more J1w. Jn•angc
till' cxtm \ nluml' ~lflli .'hapL' ncedL·d to
llh.' ll t Cl'l':lf t'-' re111:1111 upright "hiJe .IIJm, mg thl:· pat

tt:rllL'd bl:.lJ'l.k t· w 1~1!1 propt:tlr It) tlw pocket\ out~idt:

, - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -----------
II

L_ -~---- --

---~~-
 219

OPPOSITE TOP:
Contrast trxtun:s:
dry twecJ.fackct, wet silk hanky.
ABOVE
Luciano witlrfrirnd and podttt ltanlJ.
folJeJ his way. (Set also pagt 145)
DRl :,,:., IN l:
l /H i\1 r\N

And to conclude this pocket pontiflcation

ott a celebrator)' note, legendary social
critic Ltlcirts Beebe toasts cafi sodetys
mostj{m1ous parade grocmd, El Morocco,
b}1 sporting (ts sigruzwre leopa.rd motif.
- - ~--------

BELTS AND BRACES

_ , uspendt:•r, ha,,·lt>nge,·irh.·\.:d :m :tir uf-;upt·riorit} over bdts like the 'bghr :.lrTngancc felt b)
cl man proud ro dednre him,df a guH~·r hut ~ht•t•pi::-h ro admir ht: likes bu\\ ling. ThL' Dath.~tt'S
t:1H'rt:-d rhcm mcrrhe ("nu.lcr bdt. '' hiLh tltt.:)" ctm~idt·rl'd 41 l~LH hie inven rion: they Iiked their p:lll-
takHlJlS Lighd} dra'' nand ultra-rrim. l-r;mcc is gt'Jh.:'ralh crt·dired as rht• birrhpb.ce tl rhe ''gallu~:· 2.11
nr nwdern :;u,p(•ndt!r. originalk made t"rlllll line :-ilk ribbon in a mulrintde oC CLllors and patterns. .-\ ccrs ..,.cHo
fhe 3111..-it.:Jlt l'i\aln bt. t\\C~Il 'll~pt'lh.k•rs and belts g<.'t\'(' ri-.c to\ L'l"\ di!)t JIKL" periods Llr
u 'l''('Jld~r "upn"JltaC' 'w-pcndcr~ WL'I'L' ~lllllJtg l'ill' rir'\L Wl'M:Jbh.:c; to be rc.ld} made in Amer~
ic.t. being f.,,(,ioncd and \ended to rile early (olnnt-a-. b,· tr;l\cling pc.Jdl..:-rs. One~
they tll1
longt.•r ~Ct.:mcd m be n11 artifact for paundn uld lllt'll. su.;;pcndc:r'>. or .. braces" .1.., the English
called them r\?igncd ... uprcmc in the L'nircJ \r.ltl'' dunng the yc<Jr.s pnor to rhc first \\t,rld
\\:u J Jm,e,cr. :tccording m Dquirt·5 Eucrdt,pt·ditrL~(loth Ct'lllllr}' J\Jcns l~1shion. "'The dnughbll)' o(
\\\\I ,,o,·c J co.tr:-oc rarn b~lr with hi.' khaki uni!"orm. and when he rewrncd in 1919. he wa~
"
dc.Yldcdl) bdr consriou~ .. '\Jcvcnhdl'ss. bract:!' t"lmrinucd w domin.ltt.. mcn,wcar thmughmn
the t\\ cntic. '' ith thL' Cutl~L·nstb th.n l11gh rise. (ull cur tTl1llSL'f" with pleats dr:1pcd best when
held up b~ br.1ce~
Dt.•.;pir~ rht.·ir ''"t'rwhdming acceptance. a gcnr rl'vc.tlcd h1.s .;;~1.spcnJer.s only r1l his
\,tJct nnd tht: \\OITl.lfl ),p bnmght hnml'. [: \po-.ed bratT.S :we re a 'OU_(CC or cmba tTJ'I'\J11l:Jlt fol'
nk~ltnm•x~d l10111pan>: a~ the) were st illcnn..-idl~l·cd male undcn' car. a' cstigc l)f the \ tLtnrian
era J J,mc\<er...1' lighl'\\t.'jghr
~ "-
arrirc cmcr~cd
\..
durin}!,
\.
tl1c da1·111g Jau. ,\ue.
b
\'Oung men bt.'\!.:lll I '- '-1

rcmL\\Jng thctr \est' ~llh.l Jonning belt". According to E.squird clltycfopcdi,l. dudng summe-r
mumh. 111 the hue t\\Cnties. sales oCbdt" uutnurnbcred .:-uspendcr" four ro one.
Dunng the 193lb, the succc~' ,J( the dr~1pcd .:-;uit (()upl~d wirh the inlllli.'ll(L' o( Sm ilc
Ro\\ fi>rmalit) rcntrncd "u"pender' ro finor. but the lime lwd cnme fL)r rhc ,,eJJ -wardt\)bcd
man toO\\ n .1 dct"tJ,,n ofbcJr, Th~.:· decade\ full :1nd loo,cr..cut rrouscr<; cnt:tJUragcJ ma1HII~ll
Lllrcr-. tU cqtup them \\lth belt loop.s rhe popubrit) n(knicker.' and knlckt:rbi..'Ckcr ~llib also
rnrmcd a bnou to rhc bch mduqn \11tl. n' a rcsuli o( tilL' interest gl'nl.'r~ncd in
I L
rc\l'I''-L'
~
calf
fnonH.:ar br the Princt: of \Vnles, the \\Prlcl'«;; Ulh.li"plllt'd fashion l ea~cr. c11ordinating shut'~" anti
bclr'\ ~o;onn b~ra111c the \l1gue. \\ith dmmt'i" and sucdl· hdr~ made ro conrditl~lll' with thr' newly
(a,humablt~ "ucde spurt "hoe.
\\~)rid \\:u· II ~bbrc,·iatcd dtc pn:)\.luct iun l )f bl)til hl·h~ and br~K~~- I 11 lt.t.l 1 , E.'qufrc
nugannc nl<.1ng ''irh ~ome t\rn~rican 111;1nuf.1cturcr.;;. l.uuh:hc~..i the !\old Look. an :tllL'Jllpt to
g~thanil.c the \mericnn man to coordin:ltl! him:-cl( frnm hat tu h~ds in H lm!'k}'. conli\.knt 111:1n

ncr r hl luok fe:tturing large ~calc proportion ~tnd strong color m~trkcd the bcginnillg nr the..·
end of ( ngland·~ hcgcmnnr mer .\mcncan male . . l!'os aud .\111eric:J\ own dc~n·nt into tht.•
morac;s off~t"hton medi\xrcil) ~u~pt.•ndt:rs "0Llll l(lllo\\cd suit
 -
1111 ring tl H? I LJ')lh. Esqt~in• ld lu\\ t.•d ''it h another fa~o.htoJl pn.unotit'll rcrn 1t d "\!r J In
c''l1!t.1S.I tn the former. more ~grL'g1011s di~ph.l) Df~,d( dH? \lr. T look \\&1 kJn.tnd (\Jil~tef\Jti\t
~~CIJ 110\\ opt~U ror (tJill(lnni~t. ~11011~ lllllWI .l:J..'lp:Jrd fL·aLltring dm·J. and 113ITo,.J\\ dr'l:!'l\ bt:lt~ t ,

suppl)rt 1lw11' ,1 i mmcr. pia in frum t rou~er~. I lwt undt,tiuglll hcd sl\ lc hd ped ro quicrh prupd
the \llJL'l'ltall man lllil) the gnt) lbnncl <•r:t \s nwn rtArurned from the \\ar .tc"'''r unt:d tu the
~en il'c' uf u bdt. 'u~pcn,.1·r-. rut'k .1 fa~hto11 himu~ rhat cxtt>ndl.'d lm· tlurn \tar.. 111L h1p hdd J •

tmuser ll( tht> \.:olllincnral. L:Jnl.tb) Stree1. 1\:ac~..Kk Ptl"ITC L .trdm <111d H1ut knn er:t rdt

---
'\~} gnted brao. > l~..l tht' priv-:nl' hn'lion" <,(the ~m ilt• Ro\\ aficionado .111d thL)~L: rt·m~unillg l?lldJh-s
Dllb -o-:-.·c; {lthe Lt~il_:{,a~t \VAsP. p.lrti(ulnrly \\'~til \irct·t
HH l\Lu:
The It;~u:- brot1ght the slu" blll lltc~nr~blt> rl:'tttrn u( tlleJJ·s rruu'-l?f!> frc'llll their hmh
I '

pt.'' it iu t 1i ng dll d1 (' hip 10 t h~ s:am:tu:lt')' Ll the lll an".., "ail'i r .\ contlueth:~ of e\l·nt" '-·uns:pm:d ttJ
rcpb.:c rhc -d..:imigbr fit o( tilL' pust Pc~K!lCk R~\<)lunon \\ith 11Ill~r. iongL'r n L' plc.n(_•d frt.lllt
trou ...crs. In tilt~ I lolly" ood mm il" ,\mcrir,lfl c;g,,fo, fn~h10n J~ocign~r l,ir,rgin \rmmu JJllh.idu(:eJ
hi lt1l'"t'r. mnrc r<Hual ,jiJh'liL'rt~ L\' tlte IJshi,Jn pubJic m:1king it cc,ol lt>r men U..J lnok Jl1h:r
c~red in dwir :1ppcnra1Ke. The \\'urh.i" idL· succt>" ol Ralph Laun.·n·'\ rran!ipl.lmt.•d \nglomant..I
al-•ll hdpt•d ru cducnc men in ~nnw of the h'ritit'' c,f l1!d \\orld ra.;rc
\mcri(a!l men's (:t:-hiun ha . . :-.kl\\·hs bl'~LIIl
.....
w rl'connt?Lr "ith "omc ,(its prt:\\Jf her
it.tg\!. ~lichaL"·I DougLt" \\Oil nnl},car for J,j, portr;~}nl o((;t";rdon <..;ckko. rlw rt:ptilt.mm,iJc
trader wlwl~norcd rc'iplcl~llend ) .stript~d rnglisb br.lCC~ alon~ WIL11 mher 'mile RO\\ 11\t:f\ in
Lhc llJ86 film \\i1/l &.,freer. P"olluwin,,C" l )l)tii..TI:J,' lead . a nl'\\ ~cncr:nit•n •)f HH.:'tl hxamt? eu.unun..·d
t" '*
uf tit(' suspcnd~_.:r'.s inhemm :-111<11Tlll'\:-i .llnng \\'lth cur( links. pl'lcket watches and ntl nmnnu ,lf
dn~sic rn:1k dn.·~~ nnl<lllll'llL

THE BRACE SUSPENDER l),GH \\ 'ildt· lllKL' _,t:ued .... Ciorbcs ,Jmuld hang from 1ht•
,Jwuldcr. nor from rhc ''~list.·· In rhts. ht· i~ (Ompldt'lrcorrccL \belL can nc,er m.ud1 the 'u"
pender in allowing rhc plcJ.tcd troll.sl'r w ful!"ill il\ ~1c.-;rhcric J1tnnion H~ 'C\.'1Jring the p~un ~.;
rc:1r on either ~1dc of it~ back sc:1m while andwring the trou~cr,· tmm dit'cctl) :-~bene il~ T\\Ll

I
L-~----------~------~--------
--
-
 m.11 n ple.lt' 'll9-''-"'llders .'lllO\\ rhc nnrumlpull oCgra\ it) to ket•p dtL' pant':- fnmt :-tn~.l b:1cl... crca t•

t.lut Jnd in pf<l~l: The rrou~er~· 'crric.1l luw.-. :1ppL'.1r nwn: defined and t.•lon~:llctl. \\ htlt· Lhc
rn.1u eN p hi tlL"ming on rhc '' a:i 'r uulme . . t lie 0\1:' r.11l ll>l>k '' i rh llh >re clcgan t p rc~pnrt lOll'
t 1rigm311) bm~t:' Jik\.· bdr ... \\ert• m.td~ 111 t:\..Kt ... i/.t'' :-oth.-lt .b )2., ~-+-or ~6 inch., \('on
rrnllul l~ngd1 alltm l.'d dll· su 'pendt:r \ hack i~lrh and .1d ju:-tabk Crum len.·rs to b~..· COITfXrl) po i
0 uk-d ..lC\Lm.hn~ ro the'' l::lrer\: height. Tlk frLHH lc' L"i"' .II\~ mt•am tr) 1·L·,r 111 tlw hoflm, ~.-rc:m.:d
b\ thl' ch ,r· pn.aubt·ratKt' and dt~.· r.1pcr of the- ".ti,tltn{' If -.cr ab~,.,,L rhc bl)ltl'ln h~tlf nf the
cht•-...r. rhL~ double l.nt.:r of ribbon bu]k-' np tht· tol'..,tl. "lulL· dw gilded buckle!'" ind up di,£r,Kt
m~h dt.JS~ w the "enrt'r's (;Ke lodm. mo~r br.h.:~;'' .m.• ~l1kl in ()lh.? '1/..L' w <l((l..lll1111lK~nLL' ulk·r A (:CT."S0lt
"
men It'd' mg 1ha.·,~? under - :et.t i l) inch'"·~ " i l h bucklt·s up a r, llll 11J t hcf r 11ccks. I km e\ cr. if .1
r~r.ula c.1n"r .Kn>mmodau.· \l'U.•1 :...htrl" rcp.1ir -...ht..'F' ha Ihl' prnper machim.:q to ~hurrl!ll I hem
...,u,p~ndcr worn trou~~r:- ... lmuld h:nc l'''' re:1r br<lll' burrnns l.'quidi~t.lnt imm the
tWll"t.'r cetucr '~am &md t~1ur in 11-om L:\\O linL·d up" ith c~1ch of rite m~1in pk::n~ (the one'

dnse't to rl11: t-1\) Jlld another t\\ 0 pt1,iticmcd ju't fi,n, .1rd of thL' side 'L'JllL \\'hell !>ll'pcndcd
~-nrrccrh the rrou L'r..: mmn pk·.H lic. . 'nh othl~ "hik the fnlllt crL·a,e r(·rain:-. ir:- kni(clike line.
BUlh)ll!' l'[ ro • fur {Ll the ...ide or dw li"Olht'rs· lll.lill pleat not Olll) fat! ro andh)r it proper!} but

reduce the rcn,inn on the 'houldt•r .:-trap~.\\ hich rht·n ~lip (mm t hl' !'hPuldl'r. TrLm,cr' ... huuld
.th\.1\. b · \\l.lm Luger at rhe \\ai,t -...o th~H thL·, Clll :t('tltally bt: ,u,pcndl'tf" from the ~lllmiJcr'.
ncpcnl"Hng on pcr~onal ra,tt:. brae~ bunon ma} be wom l'n the im;idt.· ,,r llllt:-idc l.,r
thl" \\,lJ tbnnd In the carl} )C.a rs, '' ht:n F'rmocol dkt;llcd th~ll brace' be cmKe.llcd. Lhc ,.e,t or
bunonc:-d jJckt·t .tecompli .. hcd thut dr:~:.·d ha11dily. l'\:uurall). it ''a~ llll"~rc n.,mhH't3bk: trl 'l·rure
lht•m tu thl· (iLlt. 1de ot" the wai,tband ..1\\ .1} lTum r ht• ht~d; In rhi . . portrt.lit t1( t ~aq l:oL1pcr nn
the ( llltl\\ mg..... page
.... ht-... are affi:\cd L:O .
the om side: n( hi~ '' ai~L b.1nd F)rnbabh bccltl::iC: he '' .1~
"e-trmg a' c t llo\\ L~ cr "hen men :'! tarr~...l g"i ng ·\ c ... tlt.:'=-··· rhc sw•pt.·nder but ron ... "ere mo\ ct.l
our of tght to th~ rmade of Lht;" '',ai,rb.1nJ
"
"'cl·dle "ro <-m. bdr. hould ncH.·r br "orn "ilh . . u-.pcndt~r.• ;Uld bdt lotlP' . . hould not
.lc~('~mpan trou~er-. \\trh 'uspcndcr butwn. I \~11 though 'ome mt•n likt.· tll .1ltcrnat~ a bdt or
u. p~ndl r \\ Jth ont.: pair of trouser~. u:-petll..lcrcd pam \\ rth em pi) bdr loop . . j~ l)lll' or rhl)'('
dudgt:' born tf c mH~.mcnce that t ll\\ ~1rt' both com em iun and go< d ta.'tL'~ I ( ,u~pcr1dl·r.-. .1rc
gomg to be \\Orn ideall} the pcmt \:;hould be 111;1dl' '' nh ancxtcn ·ion \\ni... tb,md. ll) !'i11h>Oth e-\t~r
rhc tr JU! er npt.•n front. alnng "i rh 'ume kind nf adj u "' .tblc stdl· 1~b I( r aJJiL ionnl \\ .1 j,t ll~J 1\ilm
'"'h'U \H m '' tthout .. u~p.~ndcrs_ \\ hile must nd~.?-. r l drc'' an· m;H.ll' tube b\.'!m. 1hi~ (h1l''ll.l h.lp

r~n ['be: one of them_

Tht• fml.'"it qu.1l1l) ~u..,pcnders .ut~ m<:a.ie of r.1) nn. rcp1.1Ci 11~ } 1.> wq L""'.l r ·, sdk l'l1t ,,,.•1p~

are rut m 11 1 mdt or 1 1 _ inch stnp' \n\ nan·tm er and the) "ill b111J.. lll} ' ' 1Jcr and the' "1ll
t~d nnnher c m~· Hra~ec; \\ nh clip end~ .1rc proh:1hl) oka~ for l:1nn "ork but lll\f under n sutt u(
l.lt th 1 ho't. of ncd:nc . . dk Glll be comfonnble but .trc lll~ithcr m1rlwnric tlllr durable \m I

pattern gr.tcmg J su.'ipcnder strap lll1uld be \\ O\ en rathL~r th:111 printt:~..l. .1s on h 1 he "O\ en
dl:-...1gn p, ...c.: ~c rhc o,trt:ngth uf dmrJcter tn .:umc\ tht appunen.mcc".. uuhrnn~m lim:agL:
 ----------
l

OPPOSITE
Stl5p(ndtrs tiSd co arruch w omsidc ofrrottst:rs .-\ CC E5SORl E

ill l't'SHI't.'llriug dt~p,

RIGHT.
P(.rJ:cr po.sitimred levers witlr guh:rrd su.spmdas.

u~pc11dcr..; "ith knitrt.•d end~ \\'l'rk well wirh lc>t·mnl wear: they ::J.re ,oft0r. 111L)I"L' piinbk .
Jnd It: ' bulk\ under n w.1brcoar or cumm~rbund. ( )ualiLY bnKcs
• ........_ J
:.lJ"L cu.stot11an h• m.1dc \\ ith
r

machurt~ mad~ end in an cfhln to 1111 derate price. IIO\\C\'l'r. rllgland's \ lbL·n Thurston srill
turn.; our the Rt lis Royce of Lrou.;er usp~nsion. espcriall) if} ou happcn ro lind tt'• lund-finished
pt.~imt:ns 111 "hiLc cargur The "hire C\'C'ntunll) turn~ crl'am. it11p:1rting 'Jil ,1gcd patina. Lih·
\\Drkmg leeH· bunonhole~. old-fashinnt:d white cargm j, onl' nf thn'L sanonal bt\lla 1"1dc~ con-
m.mng an cducntLx1 palate. ~otc the corren pusitjoning ,__l d1i' Engli~h bracc·.s k' cr~

BRACE }\ESTJJ ETICS Sine!.! br;.tc~s -.hare the '\:111H.: \erLical pl:.1nc as Lhc tic. rhc:.sL l\\0

element~ arc coordinated flr!'t.. l~Jllo\\ed b) the drc~s c,;!Jin am1 rnJll~t:r. Th\? C'\pLril?nct'·d drc:-,er
\\Iii uc;.e the bra~e·. color or pattern m (rnme r he ~n~t·mblc\ compl}si t ion. <>~.~l id ur 'l ripcd bra~:l''.!'
.:tfl~ rd more vt:n••triltt:) rhan a patt\..·nwd pair \s 1he: m.ljllrit )' ol" rncn Gn or pJrtenh.:d Ill'lk\\ L':lr.
tht: !\t1ftl! Or tmple "tripcd ribbon Call pick up uncof the tic\ CtJII.li'S Wilh\llll L'Oil1pL'lillg witltlltt'
trc\ d~.;; 1gn
Patterned braces ~nonstripcd) cot"rdimttc bell ·r "irh £he ~c,Jid (lr stripl:d n~cktic. In
tht t.:ruil d1e\ c.m t:1d1er repeat one of rht: tic\ colors or look lo rhc trouser nr shirt !"or com-
pamon.o;;hrp llll\\C\er: smcc suspender arC' hidden under the \C"t or jacket~ thcr elljtl}' 1r~nH·n
d~lus freedom to complement an~. all or none (,f the tor:'lo·!' nt-ce ..... ories. tl~pcnding on the
prnLtttl Hh:r" per onai skill and ta'itt:
 ·rl l E DRESS BELT -1 he d111iL·e n( dre~s
bdt 'hould be dict;lll'd fln,t br the• ~huk'·~ t1'lnr
' 0
.1111~ th~n b) tlw hue of the j:Kket ~md trou')cr

.. ll.':llllL·r color s.u..:h :ts a hn'\\ n bdt

\\llid mixmg
"11 It .1 bbck ,!Joe :wd 'i\{' 'er~a l;cncr,lll). ,Jrc's
/1
b~ It~ ,JH.Iuld b(•t>(,m equ;1l t~r ~..brker shrh..ll· dwn
tilL· :-.uit. \ &u-kl'r bdr impans a dr~..!'isit•r l~mk
J'lw 111\HV rill· (on tra•.;r ben,l.·~n hc.:·lt a11d tl'flll'l..'r
DIU 'I.) I~\~ tl1e ~plH·ti('r lilt' rc~ult. \\ hc11 "ell "·1~~,~~11. the
1U!t\l~~
l"l''''r pf d1\? drc'" bdt mmitniz~' llw transirilln
A BELT"s Et~o 5HOULO FiNIS!-t
~11 till' '':1i't wit hnur inrerrupti11g dl~..·lillL':lr llc.n\ BETWEEN THE TROUSER S FIRST

nf tltC' C1l:H ~llld rnnbl•r.,·. t.NO SECOND LOOP

l\ot h tilt' Jrc!>S bcJt\, L'"tcrilll' at1Ll und\: r

,jl.k' should be con.strucred """~1 nne gr~li lled lc:ll ht: r iII :J " id I h \ af} j ng fi·.om I I
~ ~
4 in~.h~..· . . lO I I llllL'he
\\ hen buckled, it-. end -;hould b~..·long ('Jllmgh ll' ilni'h 1hrough th~..~ trouse~ fir:'I belt luop \\ nh mt
l'llllllillg pa,tlhL' 'l'Cl>lld nuddl:..' .:-hould be o.;jmpJe ill lit,~o.;ig.n. in cit:hcr ,iJ\'ef tlf gold dcptndmg Oil
t lw C< 1lor l d. the a~.xomp;.m~ ing it'\\ d~ \ monogram 1f
dl'.'i r~..·d . shnuld bl' d i~1.TL'L'l and \our
, 0\\ n

I )r~..·~.., bell:- arc di~tinguislwd

~
either b' thl..' 'imuoth
'
dulled . . uri~K\'~ u( fine grained leather:-~ such :1' pin c.li nr
(,aby• caJI~klll , ur (rll!ll the :-.ubrfe ln~ter C:l~L from the luxun ~
<ltt" ... kin l)r a lt/~1rJ ur bub} CTOC\'dilr. I lt''"'-'H·r. here\ the
I )ukc using :1 gtldl?d D-ring huckk· to drc'" do\\'11 hi'i .tll1g~
wr W:ll!"t p~1g~.·antr~ into ~ 'emi - . . pon bdt d1:1t .tCC<Wd"
mo1\.' \\'ith hi' patterned u1'Ll11ble\. mform3lil) TJke nnh:'

,JC ho'' b\ h·eping tht..' nccktit:' mp bJad~ horr. it~ Ltnd,·r

blad~.· h:1 ... L'th)u~h length to n~t..-k through the ll'p\ undl:r
kll1P .1 nd sccu rL· rhc "hole arnmgL'IiK'IH lldHI~ nuo t lw

\\.li.,th<md. \, u-.tul. rhc ~lan h~1:- m:ma~l.·d l\..1 wrn riiL'\Jrda

tHll') inll" :1 mini -ponraillJre ot-~L'<Uii) ~wd pt"l"'~mal ~n ic

The D ukc 11ppom ritl..l; his 11'11 isr as tml}' he mttld

(Set" also rl1r bMrom ~(p,zgc JcitiJ
 ] E \~I ELR'(

"""'-"" mce \ Ktonnn run~~..'I} li·dt men lta\l.· tt'rllk-\f tu ~1\ ord all bur the Illl''-l di!-CI'cct .md u ~.•rul
3cce,snrte \\ nh the cx(;e.prion of £he finger ring. 111.111' Jt ,,cln· has bc~n 1:nhercd b} function
the lll\Hll'\ dip tic dip. Cl'lllar pin. kcr ch:Jill, ndrlud''· si111T scud, .md \\Tt\t\\,nch :1rc llliliraria11
tll't. dccor.nivc ~~cond I l<mC'\L'f. .1 g~nrlcm.lll C.ll1 'till \\<.::<11' quit~ an armr L)( iL'\\dl'} \drill Hit .,.,-
Hl'>:lllC'I
.:"
thl: !unit' ofgol1d
~
u.;rc.
In pre \\urld \\~1r 1 d.n ... 1 hip lla~k :1nd cigarl'tre c1sc were con,idcred e.s.se1Hial :tcccs
~oon~!l; f~w .1 ~
t.'Ct:lCJ'.lllon d mr bel ic' 1..'d a d ri 11 k hd~WL' :u h.~ a ci\'arct
~
rc .:tl"tcr \\ere f\\ n n ( t h"'· rl1 I'L't' bc.:-;t
rhmgs in Ill~'. I he demise of wbaccu h:t~ 'Li~nHHizL·d C'\ en 1he mnst ~l} Iish of smnking impk·me11L'.
\\ hile rlw tl.1~k ha' gone rht: ''a) nf tlw ''"niL 'lick. (h,nhe ntntttcm. 'L''- 1~ -rill in fa!'lti,'tl.)
The 19~Lh re\i\cd rhn:-~ fc" :-;Jnctinnl;!d ill'tlht.l(,dt"-cmbc!II.,htnL'nt th~H Cl•tdd:'ignit')
rhc \\l.'an:r husinl?'' and .soc.al srattl". \\'idt tlw rerum l'r cui"!" link~ u . . ptndcr~. thl:· Ct.,llcett'r\
\\Ti't or pockcn,:tiCh. and 'deer'' riring in:-LniiiiL'llb, lllnrc men bccmw cofltYTl'r' 1.1f' image
JC\\dr: rhnn in <111) other pcrir1J p( rhc Cl?lltlll').

l.HE FrNGER RING The rin~ ~

llll rhe 111<1lc l.itwer lwQan
~ ~,
IL" Cl\iltt.cd ~.-~nxr amon~ th ...· ~

I I!'PWHI!i \\IHllinked th . .·m tl1gl'rhcr into :1 necld:Ke <1 a ft,nn of (1t1Tl'IIC). The <..~rt'L'ks •md I

R.~,,mnns u~~.·d the1~ .t., uf(ici..tl "LJI:-, and b) the l'nd n( th~.., \Iiddle l-
\gr:"t nug Lx·c..ullc ~o pt1rular th,lt· dTerc \\l.'rc 1.1\\., lt11biddttlg ~cn ­
tlern.m "ith Ittt k· ur 110 pr~ >pcrty aml men bch '" d lL' r.u 1k n( k11 iglu-
h, td w \\ ~.tr one During the hue Rcnais,ancr. the an
'-'
o( heraldnI
amnlduccd a\\ hlllc raft<'( "ignc:l rillg · crcstul "ith 1he 1!11nil~ cnm nt"
.trm J(ld:l) fr.ncnlit} pin' and sdmul rill~'~ Gtrl) ou thi~ tr.tdition.
Hel~lrc \\ orld \\ .tr II the double ring \H:dding ccrc>mtJll) \\ :1" a rar
~ l

at bm b) lhe middle Jl)'\0~. ncar!} lJO percc11t u( t\mcric.m lm:'

b.lnJ, h.1d ll'\1\l'd tht: old -\\llr!J CUsr0111 or \\Caring get! . .! 01'

pl.nmum band
\'i l{w linger jewdr~. lc-.~ is ttstt:lll) Jlllll\', l:'p~.·cinll) Pll
}L1ttllgL:r men.\\ l10 should 'ilh:k wirh "implc.u11dc.:t·~t:JI1..'d lllnmmr.:nt.
\k t\.' or·n.m:• lllllll11rtrn.II im~er 1ingo; haH:' ah\~1} s het'll cnn.,.i...lc.·rcd
1

gaudw .md .1 'OCIJtt.'<l \\ tth met I " ho mnk~ a II\ ing h) c• Hllltli~sintt.
( )rg.mt/ 1tic '11.11 ring:;. d,p;, ring . or ~ignt"t. fa mil} ere' I.•md
mtltt.ln rm~ Call bl· \\Ofll Oil either h.md rhc 'lglll'l ri11g j, 011~
t\ lt~h Jlr~ the !)imple \h.'dding band o1· Jl''' dl·r·~ ring.
rtl.lllH' ltl

\\ ht:n cngr.l\cd \\ nh the \\carer·~ imtials. H ~uggc~t th.n nne could

h.ul from t:h.n 'iJdc (,f tht: rmcb \\here hi~ forcbe.u·-, r:11led up('ll
their ll\\ n c.1l to notJrizc corr~pnndcncc nr pared )tttl.llld
Rogtirt iu douMr. ringtd undt·rst,lfr.urrnt
 f
----
CU FF LI N KS AND DRESS JE \VEL}{)·~
rhc golden age ofjewd') '' orkman~;.hip '\pauncd
rh~·mid ninctl'clll h cctHllf}' LO the beginning of the 11rst \~'orld \~m~ \\ uh the later an nomc.m and
:ll'l dcco pcriud:- aJ,~) prvduci11g '0111C. G'\lr:turdinaq dt:sign and craft lUJJF•hip r d,l) 3 patr of
Fd"ardi:111 cuiTimk:' or an ('.lrl)' l:anicr t:mk \\atdt afford.~> a man one of the fe,\ opportumuL-.: 1•
anuallr ~pnn an ~.mtamcnt of be:HII) nnd antiqttil) "it bout e1iciung Lhc di. apprm mg luql of hi
"·~.,hun-. JZ~.·,\lllllling some fanciful tale tracing th,: it~m\ origin or rccallmg n.s cdcbrnn.>t.i U\\ner

011 h ~nhat Kl':-. the nn .sriq1 1L' of a s(Yntll..11tn nd cdlenibll.!.

' I

It lw~ bc~n -.:1iJ that ward1i11g a gt•nt undf1 ltts cuff links i~ t'\C'f} bit J~ ~cu~ual Cc)r a
D.R £:..\ s 1 =' c \\oman as (nt' ,1 m~m tu hc<t r Lhe 1 'l'lvr sli~o.1t? d, l\\ n the back of ~1 dre.s~. Reg.lrlflcss of Ill) c ~~~"Ct. no
n n 1' l ~t.l'\ rorm ur shinsk:e\ ('closure drl'.S~L'~ n 111:111' hand hcll.:r I hnn (] \\ ell-fiu~d I J"('IlCh cufr ftCCC'lllJt'd
b) the ~ubth.: glaJnc1uruf it' buaunlwlc cu\l"ring lit1k.
The mosr prl/cd c:·mmpk·~ pfcuf(-link ilJ'I h:l\e :1lwa~ rdt("d on .til J(:mrstdt:-' we lll\C\

tht·ir (T~lrt~nnmship and lineage. -1(, Cull) l!xpklit tht> cufflink\ d~carari\e potenu.tl ~.~ach ,idt·
shfluld bc:1r :1 de~ign and connect with a chain or link, 1 he rcnson iris \Cl nnmed. \\'l:anng ruff
link' Lhat clip on one ~id~ c.-..:posL' the supcrstrunure. and sugge t rou could afford unl) thr
\!Old l)r ...~cm.stone
._ on the nur.;idc. ThPugh it i~ admitrcdJ) ea~icr ro lmk rrcnch (uff \\ 1th a bar
..
that pushc' rhrnugh it." four burr,)nlwk . . on I} half of each hand L'nd ... up cmbdln.hed
\rnund 19)1. along ''irh the nc" backdrop of Palm
Heach·, \\'lllle di1111Cr jad~t·r. drcs:"- .sn1d!' and matching cuff lml..s
\\ irh colorL·d '\toties crL'atcd a .s.rir. CufC!inh \\ iLh brighr. colnrfi.~l
1·L1btc'. l'11lcr:1ld.:-;, (.)J' ~.tpphirc... arc. ,uJI cnn~idered h 10 o~rent.ttiou!­
lor d.1\. wear ;,nLI n:sen cd ft)l' aftt:'r-dark ~.-erL·mnnie". ~lmncr nr
Ia tcr c\ en "cll -d rc•N.:d man should :-~cquirL' all :muyuc !'~Ct l",f
'llld' \ pmpL'I' drc:-' set nf jcwdf} include:- ~ pair of douhle
.s1dcd cuft" linb t\\ o or rhrL'I:? marching .:-hin n~t·k and nu tc\\er
rhan rhrcc w:ti.stcnaL button .
\ n \ mcncan tJwcmion. rhc 1ie hnldcr or da~p <tdds a
roL1ch llr cum rolled llouri~h. t\ tic dasp b.·tp~ rhc tte undl!r crln
trol. preventing. it (rnm tbpping in the breeze or :tcling a-. a n:tp
kin while dining In additif,n. a(fixing dw til! t'l rhc .. hin\ from
helps 1('1 m;1itlt:lin the tie·~ arch in th~? ncckband Tic bar al~0 ~tdd
~1 lllC:lS LII'C of" p.lll:lChl' l~"lr tht'.~·C ... hm·tl~f men\\ ho JllU!-1 lllCk their
Ct)lll' tn .. hnlh.i" till(' their ll\)ll\L'I H>ps. :1 b I rrJ \!-rarr~. \hm}
~1 nt:t onac.h'=" c:111 t thctr" dlw•n" ~1rd ro ~,rTc(l .1nwrc ca.;u.JI .tir
In the .,j,uc:-. tie d;.·hp~, em mto dedme becal~'>C the
,t\ J 1 ~h wider nc \\,1-.thrcm n offcentL'f"hen clipped to the ~turt
-lL,d:J\. nc~..·krie bar.' $ht~uld hL '-tmplc and under-.ratcd. though a
ABOVE :
Canting tltt' tie clip d!lwnward cfficrs a casual wl 111 n,tl":ll (\IlL' ~.,.·:111 add .1 bit of irrc,cvencc r,l the haghbro"
elan attd att ecceutrif charm.

OPPOSITE ·
Cary Gram iu ll'l'il:flrtt'd rrctrch cr!ffs.
 TIMEPIECE AN D \i\l IZI T\J\IAT C 1--1 E

un u11a t ely. 'h' h~n e 1110\ ed be} t)IJd the Victnrian taboo on publtc da~pJ.n, o( a tnnl p1cea.: (.1
t niL' gent Ieman \ cnnccnh ''ere nnt 'lii'PCI"icd to include the pa~~age of rime) On 1hc uthtr
h.1t11..l:· till· ac.tor Peter ( r·ItHllt: 111.1} h:n t: rarried thing~ a bit 1;,o i:1r \\hen qu~n('d J t, ,,In ht•
, ~ (1 ~pun l'd .1 '' :nch 1J11 b0t h "rist'. ht? rcplieJ. ··1 1fc J:o. lOt> shon L"O ri~d· ".1'-Ung prt.•nuu. . "t'u"~Jhi~
-'
DRf!• .'d" l;
gl.wri11g :lt Llw \\run~\\ 1'1.1\t.''
T fi [T M A I'' Ll rl r L'l iLllll't l C rcq I ti rl'd l he pnd{l'l \\:11 ch I() :lCLO Ill pa fl~ I he I a ilcn,H. \\ l:nll' .1 thlll drt''>S
''~1t~.-h ''~Is dl'l.."tnl'Ll ·1ppn)pri:H1.' ~~~rdillltl'rl·lutht:'lnrdrc ~i~J·dm \\ear ·1 h~:1tt.1Lhcd ke" clmm
~lth.i pnch•t \\:ltch :Jchtc\n.l C\~11 t,r~.·:ncr 'i:-ibilit) during rhe Lhintc' a' n hccam'"• thl; umfunn
~~)t' l'hllh ~.hl) .tnJ C\L'ntng \\~:1r. (~cl·lh:tprL·r 12... , nrm~lh\l!ar Hbck and \\ hitt: lttqueltl' -)
l )nc llll'asuremcllll'ra Lirncpiccl·\ qu.tllt) and drc . . -.int'·.~~ hit~ thmnc :-. L nf."'~rtun.Ih.h
mam men \\Car I)ick Tr~K) 'LJied "risn,:ncltc!- '' idt bu!-inc..... :o-uiL' (.1lnug, ''Hh drc~ ,h1n
\\hlhL (li(J-:. .ll'l' t:itht'f [l10 :-lhH'f t>l' ltll1 !till'(' at rhc \\l'i,t). 0H?r!cizc \\3tCht:' do lnde for lhl'

man\; m cr.11l :-n• h:dlll~'' .md ~uch t:ncum

bran(cS in\'ariabl) !lcccfcrall: the (m, mg of
rhe <>hin:, cttii
1 '( cout~l'. th~· lwlum~ h.nc the1r
Ll\\ n a~rcnda
0
\\ ht:n it come~ tn "n-.r d 'n''
\ lrhough thcr Jon·t general!\ faH'r t ht>
f-rench l'll f( thC) do like thru· barrel cuff,
[I) fit . . nugl~ .u d1l \\ n..,l . le:n ing lml >

for :Jll} 1hit1(1

.;::,
but the mo t slt"udcr
"risf:\' ;uch Iral} \ {)\\ n .. nukl· ~,.,( \~ inJ'l'r"
l~i.mni ~\gndh. cro,\nl.'d the -Ral..l' of' rilL
~

Ri,ier~l.. back in dw I<)~Cls h.t . . het·n "·on

t r~n t.llJ'ng proto~uL -..tnnri.1I and nthc !'\\ N
l~lr 3' Ion~
'-' .
3!' am ('Ill' c.m rrmcmbcr · \\ ''

c1do.. rc.-.nhPd Ihi~"·ummdrum h1 "}'h'H·ung

his \\4ll~h rn e1· his ... htrt \ufT alil'f "lud1
all lt:ll) r~l\)k m'lte.

L_ -~------

~_j
 ----~- ----
THE Bl1LITl>NNIERE

n JX"hr~ -:ocic~ of timner da) ... , the w<.·aring '-l .1

IJpd tl~l\\t.•r \\J.S a"} mbo1 of gnKiuth lh ing ..1 tnburc
n., the bd\ un •\ llllf arm. a'" dl a~ to) t..'ttr hL':-t or ho:-t ·
~ .. 'h•ar....t~l''
.. it \\"3.'- rwthing C'"X(~:'pti\'ll.tl to ~et: ,, man
"t'Jrm~... .t bnlHL1tmicrC' loda). (:~dw-r rh.m 11.1\ oring the
odd l.1pd ~.l( an -old b<..1) .. ar .. n·· c · 'omc ~nlwr clitl'
r"'1pn..'lom cuming ttpnn t u' t~trnwr grace 11<..'l t' oi male
rcltlll'JliUH l' ,1 J":ll"lr\

\ fC\\ blade . . abom ro" n :-till in--ist on m.tin

tJtning lhc Pkl . randlrd' b~ not appt.•aring in coaL
.tnd lfl.' '!Uns.nnrr :\~'' )brk an:i'l .md d.md} Richard
\ lcrkm 1' ont• of the h\."lldour'. ]1 'i .1~ rllt:' . . uit.:'.... "cit
brl.W>l puc~d '' .1 ... dc.>rgnt'd m hold a pocket Imndker
dud· rlh.' l.tpcl bunonhok· '' ns nude m :KLC'm ll1l)
d.ttl' .1 flm l.'r \lthou\!h
~
n bouronnicre is no l~m~cr
'
«.:xpcctu.i or C\iCI1 comt:nrionnl to&l). 111nn· tim~s
th.m not, tht: mau "l1o ian>r~ one u~uallr (ulr-ill-; rhc
pmmi c: l,fgcnnltn sugt.c..,ted b) 'th:h cu~tum. ..__ __________________ _
ltk~ the ronccalcd oJIIar button. the stem
of rh~ lapd b lUtonniL:re hould l ~ im i.;iblc. ·rop ~dra\\ "~r dudlL'" are Fim·dwd with dw~t· L:1ilor

mg dct,ul required [0 proper!} 't.1gl:' the J41pd fl1)\\ cr\ prL'~('ll[altiun · a\\ orking buttOllhuiC 011
rhe J.h•.i.<:f lt.·ft l.1pd of nor lc,:,' rh.lt) 1 inch tn len~th :md ~1 loop t)r rhre1d to hok1 Llll' flo\\cr\
tt.•m on thl.•lJpcr-- undcr.!'ide. Rc!-l't pinning. .1 flower ro the nut-.idc l'r rour bpel. rcgLu"t.11e . . ~ or
rlu '-'ct.JillCOl,lOn lr nor onl} make_, }ou look lih· :111 u. her at j wl'dding. i1 .lppL·ar!' ~1s if the
tlc \\cr 1 \\c,trmg \llll If}Ollr J~Kket L..11111ot propl'rl} ~WC<illunodatc the? bmnonnit..•n.\ there 1~ no

~n'e going t'llt of )Ollr\\3\ m Jcm 'Hsl rm~ tt

th~
bouronnicr·c natur.III) .llll':l(t' Lhe ere. iLs '~'rill shuul\1 b~ \.k·rlftt·d siillpl}
Bt:(Ull'ol:

.mJ Jt,t lltrth rht.• bl.."'i flm, crs arc rhos(' tll.lt prm idl' a p.l n In tla r spu t nr hl l t lOll o( (l}J ll m:-. I. Ii kc
th~o.•mtm carnatrun ('f rh~,·ornflo\\l'r J'hc . mnll c:mwrion\ b;l\;e i"tt:' im., mw.t l.tpd bntt•1111Jt.lk·~.
''l11k •t' tl'"'Crt~ nor:so l.trge a"i tn mrn\hdmthc.J\t:r.lge "tdrh lapt'l. lk(au.;t.:• it' b.l'l' em ~•t in
rht" butronhtllc: \\nhmu H~ stem h.nlllg to be 'L'Cutt~d in dw buttonl11)lc gu.trd. n
L '-
c.111 rl.."~t flat
.tg.lin r rhl: l.1pd
TIR·n· '<·em . . robe an imprc ~•on 1har the \H.'.tnng \)f bm:h ~ polkct sqt1.1re .md bnu
rnmlh.:n.· t t.hc cqtm,Jlt·Ynofgildmg the Iii} Thi aberrant nntiou i~ 'uppnncd b) ncithC'r aflL)

n.tl tndttJL'n nor ht tllnc.1J pracncc 1£ 1 pcrft:ctl) proper to \\C.lr hl'th .1 pucker h.mdkcrLhit..f
.mJ .1 flo\\L'f :.c. t \ aden.ccd b~ mnn~ of the gentlemen in tha~ book
 f
TELLIN G TA J L. · Tl-1 E F-I I ST O RY

ht.• m~'ldcm rrrilco:u ".1:- inaugur.ncd b) th'-· l.mmu" ( ,eur_;e Bq :m -ncau Brummdl
\\ 'bile lHhcr g~l) t.bndie!' or!Jis ci:l} \\()J"C colurrul CU!It.!- and breedll~, ft)ft.'\l'lllllg dk t..:llltlh:ll[ \Jr
Bnlllltllell d{11111ed a nav~ blur ~m:1lhm Lail co:H bl:1d lm.:'ech\:'". \\hire wa1 tcu.n :md .,_hin •11l,11g
..,.,-! with .1 "bin: ned. doth :u1d ,1 () i tlt.:h 't :1 rclwd CtJII<I r ofh is u" n i m "nuun 't!ar tl11.: end uflw. n: 1gn
-~

Dlt.L.'>.S IN G
a:-. rhP (bnd; dcrintt iH·. all l.tmdt!Jlel·~ lUJ'llCd t1• '0111ber dmlw~ ancl h::~Hm't loL"I·cd bad *\in.:l..'
11-I£ AI"' I" The t:1ikoar h:1s ch:mgl·d 'en litd,• sitJ(•• it: ori~inah.·d
L· I ..._
:.1!'1 a ridingcu.H dunnol:' 1he l.~ner
&...

p:t n or dtc cigh

.. ll'l'lll h lTllt II n. IkGHISI.:' I t.s II Hlg.... frulll'' prm cd rumhcrsnme fbr \\ afkmrr ,}'. \\ dl J't
~ ~

riding. it!' th.:uthlc~hre:lS[t::d llli.Xicl \\as (lll baLk. I h~..· llWdrrn taikom dnt•o;, nut hunon Ill rrunt
and -:till t·..:·tnin~ rhrce buun11:-. on cnher 'licit.? o( il ·._honer front'' uh a \.Cilt .md buth n~ llll the;
b.Kk. :1 'C!'t ige llf a tim~ when tIt~, '' ~~-...~ u"ed
~ I
h..' attach a\\\ ord or Gutt(m back rhl' bon, 1m of thr
ro:H when \\alkingnr
... ndtiH.!. ...
, \' tlJt.' quill l l.'S!'C'tlliaJ ") mbnl or the l.ngli,hman'!-1 1:11110U~ formnllt) tbl\ gannt•Jll rcpr~
..;cnt,:.; rhe ..::--am smndard ~cr by dh.: Briti"h gemlt!man l(x m.1lc elegance \llth.n \\a'l nt:t!dt'd \\a'-.
(,x the t:liiPr to appl) 1t.; pmpl)rt illtlS m rhl! '' L'<lrcr\ frame. :md pn.·.sro- m crag..: llll'll turned inh'
tlh'l\ i(' 'tar~ like Adulphe \knjL)lt, one l)( llnll) "t)ud\ l{·:1ding p:tragons of l~n.hion

TI-lE TAILCOA T

iko:u-. "ere orKc akin to Fords it \\':1!'\ a puim o( pride d1•1t the modtl sddmn changed
Cu t ()11 :1 ~Lraight
,_ lin.: to rhc knee" idl the rn1Jll llni,hing abom cllc hipbnn~ the r;ulcll.U fit
..;nugly ro the chest ~1" rfir \\ere· buttlllH:'Lt t\ man t)(~,,C'r3g'-· hcighr IL>ok:-o hc~t in a tailcoat fca
wring sun~~..:· fullnc'' :Kro•"- the elk 'L lr~ obligator: jX':Jkcd lapl·l~ !-hould nor be -limp~ Ill
bn:~<1d t h and should be C1ccd in ci l her ,Jl k grn~grnin or s:H in "irlu1 cloth Lollar: The j.l(+~t \.had,
lclwth
I:'
~hmdd rc . . t about :.minch bch.lw 1he bend t)f thl..' knc·e Tl!t: side~ t.lr rhc coat (Uru· "hglnh
t'\cr tin.· htr"· running down tl") the r.uJ, "ith norhing but dw ~.lik,r':- m,} .. tt..•rtul ~et unobtru.sJ\C
an lO hold d1cm tu the f1gure
ThL· coat's o )lbr should em cr LllL~ shirt f(lllar':-; rear "nt~.1 :md the 1\'ar b:md ofl.,(l\\ lh:' '' IHir

rc\C:lling aLica~r :1 ~~ mch or rlw \\ ingct)llac \Vhcn,,IH? j, d~liKing \\'lth dlx'\\~ r.1i cd tht t:h'Jlfl~
(\),11 nm~t
. . nnt pull up rr1 rL'\ La1t 11c ":li,TCO.ll"
· ~ · J l1,:·'~·I IIll_· -~1 ·1 h.· drl.:..''
· "1\.ll' • L-oJr·
.. '
fium pvi nt .. h mid fin•
- 1·1111..' ~\.) t Il<ll
j,!J bd1..t\\ t hL'· n:uura l "tliSt pan 11 1· 1I1t, " Illtt:
Ill)
· " ".:1.1:-. r L-o:n c;-.1"L•nd' bdl l\\ 11 l1lt: ttuk Mt '
'dl!L'\ ~~ arl..' cut narro": ) L't not ~n mpcrcuJ 111:11 r1lt:). t.:.mnot
· ·a~.-~d.>lil m' ,lhr • the:-\\ tt.··hh t ( __thL· innnal
• 1.

shin'.-. 'l~lrdR~d ~mglc cuff. Th~ir k·ngrh .:-hould bc ~lwrr enLmgh to .1lkm the ~lun\ L''l.dt hJ t:\tc:n..i
:1b1 1ut ,\ 34 inch. Th~ j~Kkct ,:o;lt.:l'\ (.' c.trric t~'llr l·I1N.h ,, t button:'
 0

THE DRU5 VIAJS:TCOAT" S POUlTS

5HOULO MltVER PTEHD B"E'LOW THOSE
0,. "TH£ 'tAU-CO~

tME 80¥ fQM QF "ft4S TAILCOAT

SHOULD UNit UP Ym"H "ff..U~
BACK 0~ A fot.t.M' S KN££.
Frtd n tilrs a .d~~ris 1'f'st deng red or~l _

.jttr rlu' l,rmcc of\\ . ale;

 THE FlJLL- Dili SS \¥AISTC0 1\T 1

ormul drc:·"' dtcr.Ht:' a ~ldrdwd \\hire bir.. r ~~} c b.Kklc (piqul.:) wai~tr
~uJr 1n etdwr smglc- or d~..mblt! brcn.-.ted dc:-ign. The most rradirional
mudd '' the . ine,lc-brea~rcd
.... ~h.t\\ I collar '' i 1!1 l h n:~..·· b111wn do~ure. The
b tnL!m edge" of dw dn•-., \c-.r·~ lapd, c.111 either be ''-lll~lll'. wundccl or
blum~d. '\ 1rl1 rhe front gcnc.r;lll} cndi11g in t·wu S} lllllll'tric1l point:-.
though there.-.., orne tlc:-..:tbilil) lterl\ as detlll'll'•trmL'd b) ~ l r. h'p I Jar. 1

\\'lutt.· Tic.•md faib him,..elf rrcd .t\swirc llcre lw sp~1rt:' a rcp!tca o( rhl·
model dut rht: r~.l) ..tl .)hin m~1ker llm\c~ ath.l <:uni:-- h:lL1 dc\nc up c~pe­

(jall~ it"'r I fa-, I fighn '"'· rhc Prinlx of \\';lll·'· which ••t~ legend goc1'1. Lh<?y
polncl) rdil'•eJ ro m:ake for ~ Ll-.r~r Freel.
The dn.~-.:- \\al~tcoar·.:- dt:cp ~\'~ c pening must bt· ('lit roper ~

i~(ll\lll tix ir' narn.m from ro co' ~r rhc .)hin ·~ bib from bot rom
.md tn)Us~r:: \\ai ·rb.md "irhour irs l'\' n bt)lfOlll CXLt:111..Hn~
...
bt'1 ond the t.11ko:n ·=- end pnmL'-. -~~) prt!\'..:'111 the 't..'~t !'rom
pullmg up. tlw cur recti) tailored' crsion provided :1 f;t~l'('ll
ing lJb rh.n huttoned LO rhc trt1Uscrs' in:-icl~ ''~li,rbamL

--~-

Fine arc:ss I'£'.StS lzmlf a tt1b

rlwr 111 ~rzdres to tlte trousers.

---- - 1

Nothing so quit-kl}' gil'es th!! ll'dl dressed ma11

a11 attach ofrlz,· 1'apvrs as the sight <?[the waisft·om
showing bmrarlz thefr,mrs ofa taflr.o,rr.
 -----
f
FULL- ORE

:til,,rcd 1i·um mntdting cloth the dre's trow•t•r reqwrc" along~r rh.m
tll)l'lll.d ri..,c .111d ·'li"J'C'Ih.h?rs 10 'It pt'i1pcrl) undl.'r the htgh rut raiknal Jnd
'hon ,,.~i . . ted drc':- ,,..,.,L It \\,lsn·, ltH'Ilothj,,g that l\1enj,lu rnlo2d hi-. amt•hmg
r.tplt) It Ti.1ok Ni11L' Tmlws. <.)b:-t:rH' d1e height ,,r his w.ai:.;tcoat \\hich h~lp-. sets.
the -;tagt· ~~~r the !.""u\ttrme'~ ~ublittw propnniL'Il" lligh cl~ts!" drco'
DRL,Sl·''··
1 1/f M ..\ N 1.1\lllsCI's LI.:-LI:lll) !lllgk·d th~H' pl~ab t'OW:Jrd I h~ 11) lll tiistriblllt' the
rul!lll'.SS 11ll·\\ :trJ with \'Crrical Ull "\t':ll11 side pocket$~() .lS Tlt)l '1"(;1 dJS
turh rhe ~..-n:n':- line ·dwuld :.1 lll;lll dHH'SC ru Llt i 'U~l a lmnd imo om•
lul l . .IrL '' tTou:-cr' !lt\.~ cunl~.·!':-. brL·ak .sl igh d) :u 1h~.· in!'tt:p. and
:-htlllkt be 1rinmt~.·d "id1 l\\ l> ll:tiTLl\\" plain braid, set dnse together

THE FORMAL DRE SS Sl1IRT

AND BOW TIE

h~ I~Jrmnl dinnci· ~h11·t j..., another item th~lt hn.Jt'b no de\ i

~ll1011 rrolll tradition Dc.;lgn~d ro run her ren Ill' dw \\'C:lrcr ·s \ jo,;agl'.
~ ~

ir lcawres a ~nff (prdcrablr !'cp~1r~uc w nnal'h) high~~rnnding wing

cullar. a stilT bib front th<lt :K((llllllll)datc.; either one or t:\n.l ~md~.
(dcpc.?nding \.Hl th~ wean~r\ height). and ~l.lrclwd ,jngk culf-;.
ThL' \\ tdth or the 'htrr·~ btlSl)lll, ~1 biblikc Jc~ign in boik·d plain
linent'r ... uiT pique. L:'o\ nor rt' ~xtcnd under rlw 'li'PL'Ild~.:~r .... rr:lp~. ''hilt..· tL"
length lll't:d~ lO'toP shnrr Llr d1L' trtlll'-t'l',' \Lll~tbaJh.l If It' ··Ol;lrchl'd t"rt>UI
\..!XlL'i1LkJ ITlLL""~ tltL tfl1LISl'r~' wp ..... ''hen a lll:tll .snL ~h)\\'11, ir \\(JUld bill(m

like .1.s~1d 111 l-ull\' ind, Ltke dw dr~~s \C\l , rlw \\Cll m:1de (ornllJI ,!tirt lm-. .1
tab th:H at'IJxcs to a dc~ign~Jtcd burron on the tmu ...cr,· iw.;idc ''ai..;rb:wd.
ThL' set l11. the ''ill~ (11ll:1r .tnd bl'" til' j.., h·} h' thi.:- t'n-.embl~\
...
prL·or~.bined ek·g<liKc. Designed tc..) .;it high on
the neck. the dramatic "111g n~lbr nc~.·~.h to The llc:ighr l{tlzr taik.,at ~
sh1l\\ 314 ind1 ~1bu\C the taiko:n\ rl":tr ('l'lbt: or ll'aistliur is rile: lmdzpiu L"!fthis
1/ inch mnre th~1n thL' s~mi (urmal Lllrlh.ln" n tuscmblls disrinctf,•c clrgaucr.
4
t:"ulbr !'hirl \\ hcther in •qn~lc 'L'I11j hut tt·rll)
 ----
- ------ I
•
•
• •
•

FORJJIIL\V

A PRtlPERLY MADE DINNER SI·HqT HAS A THE BOW TIE ALWAYS SITS IN FRONT OF"
-AB THAT f'ASTENS ~0 THE TRO\JSERS THE WING COLLAR"S WINGS .
,.0 KEEF l'r F"ROM PULLING UF

nr ban\ mg !o.hapc £he \\hiLL' ptque hem\ elllf, nrc :tl\\ a)' "OJ'n in fn,tll of rhc \\ ing cvllar tab..
11('\l."r bt:hind rh~m. \~i(k· fn..1111 the 1:1ct th.tt th~ ~tiiC" ing' nl· the •lriginaJ :--cpa rate cullar"' t"ould
ltt'h'r h.n\: tlt 0\~r th~ kncJttc..:\.i b(m. d1c t:tb ··'Pring hdped to push the bm\ l'ie lt)l"\\ m\L

\incc thc.,c 'rud'. ~Lra~.-·. :wd bulliOn~ lll."t'd tP be precisclr lincd.Ltp. rln: ,,J,itL·-ric ki1
twght ~\.·unto be .omc torrn tJ( \ ictnrian Gund:1g~o.•. the L"0IllT<11'}. "hen npprupriatd} wi
T(J

ll'rl!d the outfit i c.urprisingl} coml~1rtable.. \ 111.!. 11n1 h.t\'ing I\) \\\'lr'f) .tbmrr tlw ck't h\.·s :-.t.t~ i11g
put .1111.111 \.",111 rd.1~ .Uld LU1K~lltrare Oil 11101'1? import:"! Ill thing~. SliCh a:- tilt' J,,C:HitHI n( the b.ll'.

STUD ENSE

m C" lmg m .1 mnLching ~et of am iqul' drc.: ' '-ltl(.l~ l.:r:d·t cd during the l.nc 11 i IWl\:'\..'11 t h lW ~.:·.1rh
t\\t"nth.:th ~l.·ntuq 111 U1L:ttJ1c.r l..,f pearl 1S knr.H gnld tlr !..ltht:r pr•"!CiLlli.S llllttl•rial:; it•r tit•• ~.:lrcss
\\JJ'Il·uat t~m11JI birtfrLHlt and L.uff '' ould be lllUilC\ ~J"L'Ill
..,lim guld pn..:kt"·t w:uch "it II
\\ dl ,\

tint." le} ..:h.w1 \\OUIJ "'mgmcnt 311} l(:u-m.II prt.''1Cllt:11ion Cnmpleti11g the piourc. dn:.-!' . . ho:-ic~q
1muld Iw bl.td••tbn\~ the calf m ~·U· or"' f1111.: nblwd Llll ron li·dc" irh or\\ it hom dncb I ur for
m.II1~1Ut\'.l.H~ opt:r.t pumps or plJm tnc oxJC.rd~ in bl.lck Gtlf or pat em leather nrc m.mdarcd
llt:oJlhH,lropttorb mdudL' thl' n,IJ,Jp~tblc "!ilk opera h.u or top hal pJircd '' 1rh .t ~inglc or
doubk bn:.1 t<..'d drt: dH...~tcrl1dd (l\t.~rc.ocn 111 bl.lck or midmght blu~ \\ ith matching \l'h~r cPII.u:
 --- --
( )b\ ii)IISJ). :111} Cll:lfVs'l)l"n ror ~~-~nnal\\ 1.'~lf lllll"il DC lung L..'llllllgh to CO\erthe tntlcoat b l1 Jtll \\hldl
ts ''It) thc·Iungcr thl· man\ coat. th.: dn:ssicr it wnd . . tolr)l)k Pt.:rh.1 p~ d 1e mw. 1 , 01gm: 0 f.111 tonnal
("l>.ll j, th~..· ~light!} .shorter lcng1h .. \ 11h:.l)JC' single hreasted, A} from modd \Hth r.1gtm-,huuld r:..
peal.cd Ltpel.s. ~ll1t..:l n~hct cc1llnc \Vith \\hilt.• bnKl'llllnderne~nh and cc,rn:-.pnnd.ing ,,hnt tiL muf
fler.glml?' linen handkct\:hk{:md mmi carnatiou.s\\clleganrc ,8 ne\<:dnrbehmd

DRf;,:.fNG SEM I -FOlZM A LWEAR

TfH ,\fl\1'

dol phc i\l~o."ll jnu "as once n~kcd "lu..:l hc.r Jk' though r the dmn.:r Jnckcr \Hmld endmt>
lie replied, L1 ( cour...c iL "~Jllld . -.i ncc this Ia"' \ cstigc of upper-cia:-. drc~"' ''a a \Jnboll"'f gr.1
cic)tb lh ing
~
thar 11aid
r tribute tc1 tlw l:tth J
l)ll rour
~
.1n11 :b \\ell LOth~ ~\cninu\
o ho~r
\.s rhe n.llllL' :-11gge~r'. the ~:trl) dinner j~ckct \\:I\ e~actl} dun a lcs
form.tl dmmg
cn~cmbk· \\ ClrJl iu rhc pri' <K) pf nne\ home or club The original d,•,ign \\.1~ cr~att:d dunng the
l:ur~·r nineteenth ccnrur~ ar the reque~t of thr rn~li..:h l'rin-:c (later h.ing) I dwnrd \ I) ,du
w.111 t~:d a more ("Oilll~rrlt.lbk· :1ltcn 1:11 i\ t' 1(l d 111c i 11 rhau rhe ~w.11lo" rail c\ ening
.. com \\ n b n'
bodKr'LlillC r.11L I Icrc i roy:1 l wilnr 1\)nlc'.s ledger rccordmg th\? Prince of \\ales· origm.tl
order fnr rhc riF.S[ dinner jad.:.ct.
The Ll1IlSC.ll'll' j, that the fu·,t 111Pdd or tillS cur~ l( raJC:0<1f wa~ sm~lc
... brc:!l !t~d "uh n
roll ("t1lbr· (shJ"l) in black wor~tcd \\t)lll "irh bl:lck silk l~cin6~ on the lnpl'l This same Jacket
mo~lel had been sported._,, a scp~ratc ··~llH'kirrg jacket .. in . . ill.. 'civet b) dw I nglt-.h gemn Ir..

:-;ilk t:1ei11g~ \\cr~ lifted from 1hc Laiko.H' l.tpel'. \'icwri~m ladie_, did n01 -.moke and u1.1 tL·d
that their hu,bands confine tl11 nnxillll.; .Ktr\il) .md j<Kkct to another nJom I rom that ttmt.•
rh rough rhc early 1920~. bbl'k- tiL" au i rL' w:1s dt·emL'd ac("cpmblc in the pri' .1~..--, nf ones home or
dub. whcrc<l!' thL' t:Jikoar rcmain~d L'blig:HOr) l~)r pol ire s('CJCl)" 111 public
l·ur the low-down how the Krng·~ P~-'~"'l'llal wilcrtt" manngc?d 10 acqmrc tin: nam~
··tuxedo,'' please r~fcr to the gJL,...-:ary lllmc,cr. the term "tll\.cdt.,:· ofren .lbhre\i<Jtcd ttl .. tuck.-
or c\cll \\OI:..,c. "tux.'' i1-> thankfulh• oll1r111cd tt' rlw L 11i1ed ~tah?~ l....~em·rJII} tt 1~ cc~rrlYtl}
tl!nncd the d ir 111cr j<lcket b~.1th here ~tnd abt\'lild. ~llh.i rare!} ralk·d~1 m:xcd•"'. I?\ <.:n in -111!\l'do !'Jrk
'\.t.'\\ York.
ThL· Il)2.u:- produced mcll'"~,':lr·" 1-irst tiiH,(fici.ll designer Lhc Prinrc of \\aft·, later
Kinu and c'cntualh· the IJukc l,( \\ in,Jq,r Llt)th~..·-. con~-:-iou.:- and .1 bitl)l.tm.th'rtck he ".1"
t"t· '
tktcrrninc~l to rhrnw orr the (()Urt-rllk~i ~wfflll~''' (.)r hi~ f~nher·.s gencr.. HIOil I \("11 het~u·c Jt,,
:1bd rem iun i 11 19 ~<'. the l'rinn· had '" "'rn ~ \ff t ht• bc.:)ilcd from l'\ cning ,htrt :md '~p::mll~ ~.uiT
\\in~ (nllar I~H· the more CI.Hllft,rtabl~· plc:H~.'d (wnt dinilL. .r 'hin "11 h ,t,ft_ :n1J-:hl;·d tlJntdo\\ 11.
~

coli:! r I k· al.-.o piciiWl'l'ed the ba('kh.~~' r~lJ'lll.ll wai,tt"O:ll fun\l·ar in \\ nnncr diml':- g, rhc end 1)1

-----
 /J'R

.!.t I

'

• /

-
-- - /
y
, . -
L 11·---------------~--~--~~·--~--~

tltL'l<J30 • \\ ith dw Prine~· cott:'rie t.1rrup1l i'\\d[., legging :1routtd in rht: h1r..
,---------~~ ---. I
I·fmrr Pools ldgcr n:corJiu~~ rlu'}ir.st I
e t !t.Cnll ti 1rnml trnpprng5. dw dinnl!r jnckcr bc.:gan 111 rc.:plncc rhe tailcllat.
ord,•r)or a Ji11ner TtLXt'.dn Jc•L·ker.
?\:o other era could ha\c produced !lw:h ,1 .sart~.wial :-.ucces~. Em:h
rt>p of rhe dinn.:r jad.er·~ C\OhJuun '' .,, mca,ur~d b)' rlw pertccrion 0C
rhr outf1r H mtcndtd to rl.!pbce- the gmndl~nhcr uf 111.1le elegance. dw LailcLl3r ,md whill.· Lie
1\rno.• the culmm. .tnun of the dinner facket\ dc-.:rgn in the hue t~,no:-. n1cn':-- f:1~hil1ll ha~ }'t!t to

unp•'o\e upon the gt.:nm" oCirs original Jc,,ign or the rtuimpe~Khablc.: rd1n~.·nwrlt flfits acc<.'ll
tn:mcnt'J The nc" dinn1:r jacket pt'ojcrtcd :r lcH·I ol- ,l,H ltr~ ;lth.i da. . s equal w rlt~lt of its
 D I NNE I~ JAC I(ET DOG1vi A

, rill' dir~·cr dt'.sCL'lldant l'f 1he r,1ikoat. th~ ~mgk·

ht\':l'•tc~..1 din11cr j~k-k~..·t \\ith up\\.u·d ~\\L't•ping pcak~·J bpP1s
imc:'h :1ll lllL'Il with pn,milleth·~ a11d height. \\'ith onh vne L •

., ,_
__ ' ., \\:ti-.t bllllt)ll ltJ l!t.,IL'Il. it lll'Ct'~sit:ll'l.:~ ~I \\~lisle ):11 (tf Cltlll!lll'r

bLtlld {~l CO\CI' tilL' lr.t.Ht<;t'n,' l'~p<•SCd \\:tisth:llld.

DRJ ,_\4 Nli
r11 r J\1 \ •" I nr thu~~..·" ho dtm't ohjvn to \H.: arillg tltl·ir jacket bur ..-
IClllL'll. I h,· dn11hlc bn.::·a,r~..~d dinner j~td,~..·t oiT~..·r, ,·qual di~rinc
tiutl "llilc ~Hspen~ing \\ ith tlw :kldirinn ~tll:t)L'l't)l-:t \\:li~rcu,tt nr
t..•ttllllllL'rbUJld . l'lallkL·d b} l\H) nr C.ll'(> '\llCiL'I) 's ll10fc ttOig_llC

'~..Hd' :tt\' ..;:uin r~·\l·n·J husb:llld l:ol~ 1\,ner (n~~ht) \\ tdl Ill
" tl~·. LlllJa. ~mJ l),,ug Fai rba 11 k, Ir in gw-.grai n (, nen
'"- '--- "- I

\ Vhilc dlL -.ILl\\ I CL)IIar dinner jacket CtlllY~} s a 'Omt?-

" h:H mc..x~· 0ld-world i m~1gc than the peaked bpcl. the cu n c of irs
l:tpL·ItL'Itd" Ll) t:n<.'r the ITh1rL' angubr ph}'iognmn) '-nll rhro'''
<lrchitl'L"llln: to rhc '' ind .1~ hL· ~l iTcGs thm c..'ld-bl') p~ln;Khc. ABOVE
I ;lrh L'IT the peg Engli~h tu.\t:dll:- "~~rc I~Kcd in gk1.'') Tlte S. B. dimwrjnckrt witI. ptaktd inpr:ls.
.s.trin \r unc polllL rhc ~m tl~..· Ru" t:Sti.lhlishnt~.·nt·decided th:1t· the' OPPOSITE
Cflle Portrr aud DClli_g fair.bauksjr
lhtllcd ribbGti -..tlk gn.i.sgr:ltll CL)IlW) cd :1 111orc cus~-...)111- tailored
u1 D B. Jwurr jaikm.
pcdigrcl'. IIP\\e\'CI'. <1S long a~ l)lll' npl\ ror :l ~ingk- llr dnubk~
brL'.l't~..·d mudd trimmed
111 -..HIIlt '~" grosgrai 11 , ' ' ith cirhcr 'ha" I t'f pr..:::nkeJ bpd . . per
mancm 1:1:-;hion j, :b..;urL·d.
Dinner jackc-r modd, dur d~' i..ne fr~.. m 1hl:'"t'
four cl.l''ic :u(lll't) p~s or boa:.;t ,uch inf@rnul emhdll',·h
mcnh .l' rwtched l:a~"'d~ Pr tl.1p P'-Kket..., de' oh \! inw ~.tr
ll..lriaiL'~rmort'llS . ..::cll1H11ming bod1 th~ f~•rm\• .ll''thcnc
l<wil· and
~
ll'i n!'()flli\C
r
ll( rimcJt:'~~ dcg;tll(('
~
rhe \\holt;' idL'!l
tl a (nrmal :-uit '' t~l dt...,tingui~h it . . df fn.Hn rl1L• not~h
L1 p~· I bu'i IlL'"' '-lll r. rw t rl' pl JC~H t' i r
-I he babncc 0r thC' prop~r dinner J.h·kct \ dl't~ul
ing t\'111illll't 1:111-1) ..:rr.1i,ghtfon' .1n..1- J '' eh br~a!'t pulkl't i~ \r
<t "hi 1c Ii nl'n handkcn:-hief .md ;1 \\l,)rkmg hutt\mholc un
the krr l.tpd m hold ~t bouronmcrc 1)oublt• be l~mt-d
(jL·ttcd) hip po~..-ker.. can be eirlwr plmn ,...,r rrimmc:-d m thl:
s~1mc ,jlk a.; the lapd. like rhe raik~'Jt~ tht> 'lllgll: bm:t~h.:d
~..lirlllL'r j:tch·t t.1b.> llll~ '' ..... r ~1UHOil and fnur dlh~h 't't

Nud Co mrrJ ill cr sht~wlt"ol1m· .mavit}'·

. - -~---- ----
 ----
':llt:c\ c bunons, "hich C1J1 cuher b~.: simple black hl•rn
ur cm·cred in the lapel' ~1Ik facing (en her gro'-gntm or
o;atin to match)
incc mo~t formal aHatt ar~ hdd 111 dm1aLt:
controlled em 1rons. a finished or uniuw.lwd tmd
\\l?ight \\Or~L\!:d (q' 2 to I O' z ounce~) huuld take .1

m:Hl c01nfonablr through cl1r~e ea.sun" of d1e \Car

Like rhe tailc• •:u·, dinnel' dorhe.s arc trimmed in facmg
of, :tl) ingd L"gr~te~ ,,flu.,.rer, rhcretoJ(! so a llllt ttl mt:'r
sr:w: the sheen quotient. th,; dinn~r jncl,et· bar ~h·uh
shuullf be in a dt died or m:llle fm1sh ubtl · trxturrd
...
"~a\ e cl leers such as barathe.Js and miw hciTingbtme:-
">r quit'L \:lri~?gared ~?!Tccr' moid afienar:wn '\hrJe
nddi11g surf.Ke ime rt:'~l m the fonnnl an,emble
\Vhcn it comes 10 col<'r the bas~? \\ 1lr h.:d
cluth i:- limited to black or midnigiH
... blue In the
t~gos , 111idnighr blue began to replace black bccau e
undL'r anilki:1l li~ht Lh~ dark blue retained it. richne:-s "hilL" blad
~

.sumcti mc.s g~,, c uiY n ruo;r nr a rrificta1 cast The term .. mtdru~ln blue"
I conjured up imjgL'' l)( the -.hank nf rh~..· C'\Cning. ''hen ronmnce i.lnd
I
r;Jmbultn·ic)U\tlc.... ~ \\C IT in l·ull .,, ing. \Vhile midnight blue dmn~r
I
cnal's orilTJnalh
Ct 4
IOt'k matchtng (:.Kings, bbck ~I\J!'>~fa111 or s.ltlll tnm
\.. \,__.; \..J; I

111ings h<l\L' bl'L:Il "orn c;inn: (he rhirtic-..

Back i 11 rlw day' when thL' bon Yi' ~1m rcquirt:"d more tlmn CII1L
dinner jacket. ir W:l\ not unusual rv find him d~..mning a lighnu~tght
\tT~ton i11 llll)h;lir or :-;ilk. lixl.l~. rht• dulled sheen ofbab) mohair and
fme ,n,r'\fcd "no! i.s l111l' of the le\\ ra.. . rcfuJ c:-..ceptmn' roth~ rule that
norrnalk cuthtgn~ ~him dC'lrhc~ tn th~? parn:·m1 s1dt· of the track I lc.·rc
• <.

~BOVE

1\ rtdniglu .bluefonnalwear.

LEFT:
Signiorc 1\gud/i shiUt'S.

I
-
Dl l ER] CKET _ LTE RN;\TI \ IES

"one .het·ml rhe ..or:i:1li.HI\.icr, wid1 :r' 111~1\'~lsin\'c- ~.lc·m,lllJ, ft1r ~..lr~..·~, un,
r thL' t1d~..l \)r
cp:.~rar~ dinner pcket .,urfncc~ Paired'' ith rhc '-""l'll\'t'IHic.'llall~'rm.ll tr<.)u:-;er. thi~ nonmatching

1,tckt.>t ·un\.lgJtc: '' ofrt.:n .1 'arintim1 ('111 rhe 'ch l't -:-. llH'king j:1ckct theme .wd t radit ionall)
r~'cnt:d ((u·le-. . . .. .
grand .1Hnir-. '' • !on~ a' ih dc~ign ronl(,rm" w l)lll' l,r dw I~Htr da~~i\.· mod~..·b
245
mcnnoned L'~lrlier. n . . Elbric can illl'{ \\it h a\.h i?tlturc. c~c~ ll'l in~ the.. ['ludlt.'SS n( "l'lll rmn1 his
r () R ,\J A I, \V Elt
1 cmdon hnusc w her .m ~uLing rh.Jril)t. our man }nirbanb: "Pt'll~ .1 .....Iun-f:1Cl'd 'ch·~..·t "Ill' 'king
1·'\·kcr and llll""~nogr.unnwd slipper 111 tm:.
\A~cttng an oflb~ar apllJmb thar Lmlr dw gcnuiJlL' [n~lish tl,ff Glll mu~tcr. art i!'r :md
phC\h1gmph~r Ce -,) H•nton "quire' I~..·~ l~adzi\\':ill to the· I ngli .. h prcmicrt• o( G1m lkt\\ ~en
Beaton\ c \\11 formal ~armtur~an i dll'ir mat~-.-hing "-'her (n,rb. the coupl,.: radial~~ gi:HllllliL

- - ~- - ~------------------------'-------,

LEfT
D. Fmrbauks ftJ 1•d~·ct smoki11g}atkct and monogrcmtmtJ slippas.
-- RIGHT.
Cedi Beaton drt55i7lgfor him(clf
 --~-

-
Tl-I E I3LAC J(-TI E \\fA I. T

Ill undcrpi11ning ~)r high das~ dinth::r clothe" \\as urjginall) d~'-tgned to be in\J. 1bk
I )J"t''' ..:tud-.: hid the evening shin·~ slltli ltolc'. :1nd ~ilk band~ cm~r.~d the formal trou.,.,·n· um
side -.e~lllh. r\'lllll\\ ing in the t:1ikn:11 ',:.; (l,<'l"lCps. tilL' "ingle-br~a~tl!d dinner j.tcket rcquir~' tlw
l.-f6 :-.en icL's o( till' dress \ L'~t or (llllllllt:rbttnd tC'l (~llll'L':ll ;llld smoorh ._,,crt hi! t"<lge" L1f th..: ,fun,
l.
D R [ '1.'1 I ~ bl,'-t.Hll :11 h. I 1he cxptlSL'J ti'Oll'iL'r "ni:..;t hand -1 he l~utx '' ai!'1band dre..,~ tn.)uscr not onh und-.>r
n 11. •' l A 1'> mint.·" 1hL· form"' Jlltt.:griry h1 11 lntlk' bush lc:lgliL', .. 10 bt)rrm~ a phra-.e from d1e d:J) . . "hen th1~
•I

lllH"Ci t v nri~in~ul~d.
~ ....
Tht> ~ingk brc~sted din11Cr jackt.•t with pL'akcd bpd!', likl" it~ taJio.lat prcdccL·"· ur . . , n
\.·hn'ttizl.'s bcucr wirh the drc-..s \\:Ji!\tcn:n. -,incc the ,t. ,t'.~. lo\\Cr point" echo dw·c ,I[ the emu
l.tpd~ .lhl'' ~ \\ h ~~~ dw sh~1wl ~ l:tpd d i nncr j.Kkct Glll ~KCl)ITHnod:ue en her 'n lc of" at .. t dl·d-'r
rlw rumnh.!rbund\ '-·un C' h:1rmomzc~ p~trt~t.-ubrl) \\eiJ "nh the
Ia pd... rounlil.'d -.hapc. In ortkr w keep du:ah."'r ticket:-. .n the
rca'-1). b~tter quali1) cummt.•rbund~ bme a little pn l.. ct .. tnd11.~J
behind their dct·p~."!-1 plc::-~r. '' hid1 IS ,\Jw the t·ummcrbund ....
~lh\ .1~-.; \\urn wi 1h it' fold~ PL'i nri ng uP'' :.lfd
01'igil1<11
.. k. the Jmn~.-hing
.... bla~.-k ''ai,tl'a:.u \\a· imper:HJ\t:
'' 1rh a dinnt.•r jackl!t. Onct. rlut royal twcakcr of rr.1diuun deLtdt•d
fL1 t LlS'- 0 11c t)( h1, "hit~ ..,tie wc~kh~ imo rlw (orm::tl ring. dw re~t

a-. the, '

\cl\ ' ' l11ston. '\.1t1tr.1lh. rbt' Prince':- imprimatur brought
I

ovcrntght ~lCCL'pt~lJKl' ro the ''hire ·\\ai'lco.tr and black dmner-

j;Kkct n)mbi n:ninn.
Proust tliK1..' ~:1iJ that clc~atKc '-
\\,1-; lll"\Cr f.1r .t\\:1\ (rpm
!'impliciry. Tlw JHwdr) ,l(:lll odd-..::r,kwcd \\,listL"o.uur panLrncd
cummerbund is t\) be cn..:our.1ged. 'n long a:- jt'.., limited w tha.
,jngll' lll)lll'l,h !njcctin~
. Ml(lfl? th:lll OJ1L' ..:ont:f<hlillg :lCl."C '01")

into ti1L' t '' ... ) c~.)IL'r (ormat fragment' iL' J(>rm.ll integnt~ mto
~mallcr k·s-. llllp\.1fl.li1L piLYt'!'. Ppnhcrmt.,ft:'. 'incc d1r bl.tck tiL'

rcgti11L'Ill" .tlrc:H.h btwdcr' on the prcdicr.Jb!c?. km111ng a bo" uc

and matching \l'-.t l)r ..:t1111111erbund impo:-.L'' on tlw \\L'.H\."f • n
CVl'll morL' ..:o111 ri\ cd. ~..,t.L-p<Kk.Igcd look
Hy limiring }our 'l·k·crion lf.l on I} dH."C component
prcdomin:mrh b~.)rdt•rcd b) black. 'ucb .1.:- thL· ''·li't("Orll cum
nwrh.lllll.c.lrL'" . . ltin .c.x P'-'cker 'q mft>. ~ou 1

hil\t"Cthut"Cd thar dH
, 111 gll:· dnl h'p ~., ,-d '"l,11 •111c\.· rem=tlfb a parr of rhc ''hole I JLl\\ c>\t'r:
"lll:'ll rht• (l)llt r.1:-;t b<.)\\ riL" ,, r'lrtJ\' n in under rhc dun \\ 1rhout
Cun't'tl cummrl'btmd 11'itlt bel ill' (r:lmcd b) :1 dark ..:ol0r. n
1::"
~t:tn ..h l'tH on H"' O\\ n makmg dw
sqf( plf.ate,l dimtu shirt.
L
11\..:k look gift "'r.lf'~ Jt ..Jso dlstnadS from the.cksired fOQit pOint--~
Jo .tmbr:k-e atlo~ or patt:.!~ IKW~ as th~ir personal badinage
fUr unn tire more~ ~t
The tunalitJes•-:apable-ofenn.:hmg thi already dtam30C ~~n~st ~It
tfk~ ~~4ft equ:d dew« of p~k and nchne . such al\ pltttn bottk sree~
.mJ gold lfa pttt¢tn is chnsen.rtsboukl be~ simple two coJQ.r; d~ign in whicll
bluck or wtn~ like a cb.K' b~ and "iUte pnlb dot ora m'l!tmd~-a!ld...Wh1rttUiO
 - ---
FORJ\!tAl__\1\IEJ\FZ TRo·u

lllilCr j~Kkct adht'I"C' IIJ dw s,une principle of prt\pOrtiC1Jl and "-11 hng a10 tull 1n.: c..
Ll\)ll!-iL:f:-.

rrnu,er~. \\ ith L)Jll' eXCt.'pt in!). a slighd} "ttfcr ~mglc de..:orntiH:: band t'i.-place... the f~ rrn.tl t~ lUM: r,
t\\ '- .small ~~rips l'l1 ib Lnner k·g ~cam If rhc jackl·t·'i lnpd facing' .m.: sann the lt.'\Wn.· nf thr
ll\'>ll~0-r•: side. trim llltt~r l~)llll\\ :-.uit. llcJ\\C'\Cr. iJ" thl' J:lCket·~ bpd~ .m.• ltlllllfll•d Ill i!llJ"'~I7Iut cl
L '-

DRl 's r 1\'t:; lll:llchinggr\)~gr:lill '-'ra~lightl} 11nrnm('rb.llld '''th~1 rru:-cd ribct-lcct ;-~reeqll:tll\ '"·tmtd ltkc.: du:
TIH \ ·f.lN
taik·o.lt ll'l)ll "LT. i r' bounm is 11~·' er l"t rlTcd ·1he I t\'1J t'\ Mairl:'· -~ 1 inger Rng\.!1 . . mn\ H.: slwll \\ r Duur.e~
t"llll! ai th :lll ~U llll~ing JcpiCtiUI I of l !JI..' fll nless I radi tkm j 11 \\ htch \~tmn~\ b.md lnt mbt: r:"' 11\ tll ...it.:!t
rr:Kk hi' \h·Jdin\., t"' b' com inLing him that till~ btl·~t f."l."hJl>ll r~l,uire
J .. -:1 thm drrs' truu~T hL ctdk>d

FORMAL WHITE-TIE TROUSERS

SEMl·fOR~AL BLACK·lliE TROUSEJ':S

--- ------- --------
THE BLAC I<-TI E DRESS SI-IIRT

II
nnd morC" f~wnJJJ is th~ "hire ti~ C\C'ntiH! ~
-.hin "uh ~r:1n:h~d wing ~.?olbr.
~
J. dc.••\:rtbed ~<uher
1 he ~c\.mJ a:-. rhe un,tarched. rttrrll.lt.."'~'' n collar ,hin "ith .,n(r plc~ncd iTt1llb and double culT.
,. cr nnmhcr· ,,trrori.tl conrriburit'll !'rom the .. l,rinr~· t,( \V.llcs ...
\\ h tle eirlwr f1.ll'l urrl :·>1 un doc ju~ticc 10 l hL· fl.lur da,,i~.: di nncr jacket nll1dd-.. the" i11g col
),11"\ htgh st'JrGh~d polllL" hnnllulllZf' p.tn i\.·ttbri~ \\ dl with I hJt u( the ~ingle-bl·ta~lc.J. pcak~xl lapd
dinn~r J·h:k~r Ltkt> th~ fuTI~dr~s" f~,rnwl hfn. mp
dnt''~r rw·ndo\\n l"olbr ~.:'\Cning
'-
'birr.'. ''herlwr
pleawd or marrdb fr"mrs are con,rntctcd "ir h .t bib ~
n pl~ de •gn furndo\\ n collnr dinner !'hin' nh' a)'
rake I r~..·nch ~ufY and t\\ll or tlm..:c ~ntd'. thL· Cl'rr~n
.
mnnbl.·r dtcLtrcJ b\ the W<.~rt:r\. h~ight.
....

must \lf t ~1\ • r~alh or a1~rom m:1de \ er!'ion' ntak"·

'
t heinh'.lr~rs look htc m:ll.l scienti.'>(S:" it h nne t" j,t 1l
the ht.-nd .md d1e cnlbr's limp. dim11111th~ p~1i111.~ h~lt1.l
to rull ml.'r rhe bO\\ tie. ( )riginall}. the~~ lfr" ing ~.·ol1:11· I
Gitlllt.: ~;~paratt.'l). offering n \l1lnety of dill""..·rt:lll height' THE WELL-PROPORTIONED TURNDOWtl• II
COL!.AR DINNER 5r41RT AND BLACK BOW TIE

Lmd contt1t1r.s dmt ensured its hro:td wingvd pr~cncc

fr.un~dall men C.1~e-- in r~,1l 'plendor. L'nftll'lllllatc..:l).

t'JlO.' f.J,hi"m m.andatL~ r~ad\ to \\l.'ar \crsion~. it . .
•
Jtmcht·d colbr became homnuenizeL.I IT'Jr bro:Jdl.'r
~

app~al rhu.-. fixlt-m.ng mosi ofi1-.:. fimcrion and all ofi~

mdt\ idual rclint."'menr Ii :., 110 \\01 11.:fer that 't:\ 0rnl }l..a1
bnck. tht.· \\ ing colbr\ emn'io.dmed remain' \\t!I"C 0
pu.-.hc,l ~'"''de lU mal.~ "U) [(if the l r.m . . tcnt .m~.l iri\ o
I
k,u_.,. col1.1dt formal shm \\ 1th a Cmn• hutw11 d,l'illrl..' FLACIO WII~Ci COLLARS ENDING ON THE
WRO.NG SlOE. OF A !"OFUiiAL BOW
Bonum right i' <111 r!-x.'1mplc nf.uint lwt·mix~d
mct.lph~'lr: .l pleakd [rum dinner ~lun ''it h n '' i11g
cr)ltu· a mutt nf a ~arm&:nr if l hcrt.~ u er \\ .1c; ~11\C
II
I
I

0 '
TIHY WING COI.J...AFUi OVERWHELMED
ev A Bl'lW TIE

----
l
-~
 ---

Tire autht'lltic \Vindsor kuor

the Drtkt•'s tlH'Il pt'rsmwl St)'k
Thf bt'tWS own bow.

DIU_," ~G
THE: ,\li\~

THE BLACJ( BO\\TTI E

he scmi-(unnnl bl ..1ck ~dk blm 's tl'\turc 1~ g~.l\l'rn~d b~ the j.Kkcr·.. L1pl'l E1ring' a ... ;um
buw for satin l~1cings.
~ a nbbcd or rncbbk· \\C'HH' \,1riario11 l~u· n'"'rO"l~r.Iin
~ I:Kings
~ ltc; bmtedl\J OJ

bnt \\'111g "h~1pc j, J m:H rcr n( pcr-.lmnl pr~..·l~·r~._·nc~.·. \\ hi I..-: llll'"l mea cnngc- .11 vhc? rlmughr ofhn'
ing~ w kiH)r rh~ir o"n bo'' ur. 1t' r.lrc to t"l)J11C un~.m r. ~1 \\l..'ll-turncd our ~lLJH ' ' ho nmnm \ LILk
o( !!l'omctrical pcrl~ction ill the Citll',llL'J knl'l i:-- bnrh d~._,ir..·d ~nd imp~. rram. humJJ1IZII1g dw
L'llSl..'lllblc ~111d 111~1kmg it lollk il1l'rc: md1\ Jdu:1l ( "l'L the :-l"l:dt)n (ll1 bo'' ric' 111 d1.1ptcr < "\('('I
\\l'.lr.") The bo" \" idrh sh\)tdd ntH t'\:t~nd bC)l1mi the ..-,JII.lr\ \\ ing'. rh~..· "lwe:ui Cl'llm· .. pcrunc
t~..·r. \)r rhc man-.. -.pe~...wl \\ 111d-.Pr knell C(Htld he rorrccth .uuJbutcd to the Pukt II
t:Kc. I( ;1
''ould be rhc nnl' h~...· empln)ed l~ll· Jtj, bl"'' 1 niter rhan lhc bulb1u . . ~·oniccriPn f<.,r ll'llj! nt:'
L'ITOJll'l)ll~h Cl'l:dLtL'd lO him
•
 Ft\ ""' 1-IIO ~ TI .1 G T I-I E FOI~MALAN J(LE
1\ND FOC}T

b\! t~lnnal 'htX' as a' Ji,nnt:l from nt h~r nwle l~}l>l '' C'.ll' a:- the di nn(•r jacket i~ frnm a ~uit
LJkt· urhl'r 'nlJd.mon~ llf ''hilL.. L''r hLKk ti~ ..~1..'11tdin. the l~)rma l slwc mu"t i111ht1L' the drc....s
.
tTOLISl:r \\tth n Ct:'rt£1111 .:\\\;}Ilk \\hilL' atTonJiug tht> ~~hJl L'IIC\llgh Jighllh;'~.; ~111d C lllll;>rL l\l help
1 -I
_').

d.ti1Ct:: lht: lJig}H ,1\\.l\~ "-\,Hill:"tillR'S ~IJlll\'.

, 'IPilk'tilllC~ .tnD(
r r I JJH~d wiriJ a ~jlk_ bu\\. \C
.. l <:lh\<1\'S
,

npp(.·uring more like .1 'Iipper than .1 .:-.lnw. thl· l~>rm,tl ~lll'l' is rite {ml} ;lpprupri.lL~ W<l} tn l·tni!'h
nff th~ furmJicn,(.·mbll"
\. ~ \ l''Bge of m~1l~ cc•un d rt's'. tlw ('PL~ra pump rcmai n~ the .:'l ,It• i rem ~.~( mctl \ [l,J liLm
hl cntl."r rh~ t\\Cill~ t1r,I cl."nntr~ prt:lf} much :1:- il kl.t tilL· ninL'IL'L' lllh. \\.ith ribbl·d !'ilk b)\\.
tl1l· upct-J ,[,ppl·t '1rik~' the le:-~ ~ophi·aicH~.?d :1' 'lllllL'\\ h.n c~rcmin:.u~ This ~~ unl~'nun.tre.
ince 11 h:1 been tlu.: foundation(,ff(.,nn.tl hJl't\\car ,jncl· rhc turn pfrhc pr~..·\it•U~ LCillllf)- ·11w
more . . uignt.: tend tu Lhoc1~t' thL' dulled calf,LI· ion
'
u\ er its p~Hent lear her peer
.\ltholll.!h
'-
tin.: more Ct'mcmiunal t'r the
t \\ n d.ts,ic l~1nnal ~I we'. tlw p.trcnt lear her It)\\

(lit \)xl0rd ~..Hd tlnl make it~ deb11t on tlw d:-~nct·

lk~nr ulll il 1hl' carl) 19 ~lh, \\rll :Jrl(:r r l ~t• c' ca1i11g
ptunp\ entre~. \\'it!t ib plain hu.~. clt>. . clr crtJpp('d
c;olcs.,Jt·li(.:ltt.:!} bt\L'k•d \\.Ii-.L. ~ut<:.l glt''CIIkL:. lit
this lon11.d I:Kt.: up i.:: l ~..llh ck·~a11t :mJ pr~Kticall~.,r
dmtctng. '\;( 1trcc thi~ bt.':.-pt.Jkc ... hoc's "ilk l~ces. nn
old wuriJ lurbclcm rard) ~ecn tuda'
I hl' llH)r~ C:lllC nn~..1s
lum,clr dt'llTling dill
nc1 clothes ~(>r pri\.lrc ocnl-:J()Il'. the more ltkcl) he
i!' to .ld npr ~c' era I nlrernal'i' l' :- t} !t.:.' t)f 1~Jtlt\H·ar I he
dub t'll'g.mt C'lk'r.l pump :llld \I hen -.ltpp"'r nwtdd!o>
lt:J\ ~ lcmg bl~L'll ''"~d ..1~ f0nnnl :'1-hol's Thl' Ill(' ·t
t""l.t~s} 't.•r,it11l t ,( tlh·lancr .1n: thu"c
maJt Ill .I J.1rJ n.·lvet ~{ ,Jm· .HIIJ embmldt.'rt}d \\It" i1 llltltlt>gr.lm nf I he
\h'.trl·r nntt.tJ.., or J (mtil} or dub ( ll'"t (~ce png~ 19.!) "J h~ j,Jcal ~utklc
\\ r.tppmg ttl augm~.·nt .til tlw; pnli\h arc L1( '-rti1J bbck 'iiik :~ finl·
nbhl.~ U\L:l" tht ".tlf t.:llth_,n tL.. Ic nr g~tfll'r :1 :.t'>tL·d ht,SL' \\ ith
t!Hht.•r <1 d ( Clllt ,r ur t:ontr;:tsnng dncklil...e ~Je,Jgn

Hltcm Jrr$$ o~
-- ~ .. u·dlr Jilk 14«$.
l
 he '' hi tt.:' me'' j:Kkct repre!\eJHed 1he f1 r:-,t r:td ical change in malt." t:\ enmg "'ear and
rcl:t'h ed Slll'h btU:ld n:lt iorwl ~Kcc:pti111l'L' th:H it ";ls immediate!} adopted fur rhe umform~ of
hdllinp:-: ~111d l')rdw~rr:l 111t:lllbe1·.s. \\' hilc it rc~t'mble..:i .1 ~lilcoat cmutrm rlw \\at~dim: tlw me
jacket \\:1!'1 Ill\[ n~lllLTing lO 111:111} fi,gurc~ pnrliCtlbrJ~ those rhar didn't happen t I fL' ~mhJl· dmt

Dn1 s.• 1 N~ oi , \duni.!'.

THE Milt\ Tlh~ AmcriL'an m:1lc "a~ ripl' l"dr somctl11ng alotlg mure romemional 1m~.·~ that
1\.'L:lincd the (tJI111~HT :1ntl '--l>lur o( th~ Ill~'' jacket In IV34. [S,]lllrt' wrned the 111glnmnre of
\\:lrlll- \\C:lthcr l~ll·maliL1 intl) a mid.su111111er night' dr~am. un\l·dmg the "hill dmner J:lcket
\\ith ~luwl L'OIIn1: PrL''L'IHl'd in bod1 'inglc and doubll' brt':I.Sted m,,dd:-, it recei,cd .Kt:.oladc
from hablltll'" c,l· cxdw.i' t: r~~orr!-> C\TI'}'\\ hl'rc.

------ ~-----­ ---

- -

- - -

______________________ __ -- ......__

l )n(~" hhc bn,kc the ruh:lr b:11Tier. nthe r rdlo red di 11fh' r j:Kk~r.'i s.onn l'l'llrm ~d.1:m f1 r-. 1
gamt.AJ populariq m .t n~~-\' cnlur calbJ ··bi~qllt.:.•." ll.s ~t:t'11 hcrt? i 11 rile nJmpan) o( t.hi!' blond-on
bkmJ LOn~orrium \~ ith mcu buck in to\\ n II\ 1\\ \\':lilting to .-.hm\ _l __ -
'
\lft1lldr rn·ctu -.umanneJ. Cl'Titpl~xicliJ~. tht: IlL'\\ c~llllr~ \h:l't..' \rd-
CHllW .llldmon!'. to rh~..· c.lll...e a~;. the ~u1i"1 I \.•..,Jic ~:mlburg'~ r~nd~.-ring
(,rf,rt•c ltj1) ~ \f m:t~rulinc formcll t:lt.'ganc~.· on rhl' I rench 1\.i\ it:•ra bril
ham h pnn r.I}
\\e ,,,11 ue\cr k!H.l\\ \\hcthcr thi'\ blat.er trimmed tu:xc~lo

(,th," nglrt) ''a'> rn p1r~.~~.i b} the ani'L Uqmrl. . ta~hiun .,mf( tlr an actual

-.;::" .
P.1lm IX'.t("h rltJ!t11lte. \\'h.lt an l'Xtr.mrdtnnnh ~t:\.. ltsh id~.1 1 Re' cr-.mg \...-

rha.: '' h1b: t''lll .llld uudmglu blue bt,nnm \\ tt' thl' m.•xt '"'!!JC.11 !.tt'p in
t:~t·nmg ,, •.,,r,mf~mnalm,trdl.

(.l(t,"lSIOil Cc1JI111g ftlf th~ ntL~l\\,1) ,111lj it' cllfClld:lllt alL.L<'

far ben\ .1,.'('11 ~ J~ Wl" l't.'IC\ a'llll
-,prp, .trt.' lC\\ .ll\J miglll bt.: rn sugg,t::-if'
thf' propl r drc"'' ~~~r .1 ''cddu1g Dr o•tl moni.d \lilting
\\h 11 f~,nn.d .utlrl' ico nprinn.tl h the l~lkm C•mgr.uu
bung rht• "<. n tL.''- m.m 4un: .Jd\· knPw~. run U11g up fol' ~uch
.m p"·-.·.1 illll da~.l in "ulid n.n •\ 'itut ' ' httl Jrcss -.hjrr
:1

n.lH Aitd \\ hitl· ~ltt.'pht.'rd's chc(:k til· \\hit ...~ h.tndkt•rrhief and hl..1ck

-:.tlf "hl h..: ' ' J•• . mJ "'lllll\ .1 prcr11 t.:tfe .md ~t} },.;h l1t.·t.
l __
 In 1 h~,; t ll'<h L'Lan~c from the cl.l ..s~t· "od ~ .11·.1d tgrn q lat.· Jlt"\\ ca.. uul Hll' tr{· .. d 1 r
tt 1 t1

l~11· .1JI t:ll-.tled k·.t\ tng Jll,lfl) 1111?11 ~trugglmg w f111d .1 "-l\ le ,( u(fi ... c at[lfC t ,11 J J 1 t
1 t rl
dJc1r bu"in~.•s., lTt.·drbtllt\
•
r!u: t'lllLTgt...'llCL'Of('I'Il\atll'so.;;llflfl lllth~l\t:CUlJ\tUtljcl'tnJfkstlll•~o,m~J 1 t\ t t p r
t.lllt ch.mgt.:· 111 husmes.. l:t"lmJn 111 our til1ll' I \.Cl.'pt l~1r blue cnlbr IJl r u t 1111111:! lhl: \\ r 11
CtJII.11 cr.l\JI \\ai,tcom. and ~.ln.'s' c~).ll h~1h: bl.'en lhl' ltmlCr:-.llmc < f nllt. L11 , 1J ._, i ~. .., ,
llt.'.l rh l~' o llU mi r~·d }l!ar:- \\ 11 h t ht.• d~.·nll lCJ\lllt:lt 1t 111 of corp£W.Itc d rt. , Ct dv.. t lu g l n Itf 4
(

--.•'
~ 11" ll\\ 11 c.l!:!U.tl I rid.t} d, ~thing hn' rlt 1\\ rl'pl.lc{·d t mdi11ounl bu ...'int " 1.11-rc.::~, .11 lt. 1\l l h: d. 1 J

DIU q-..: \H'l'k l~>r ~)l' percent 1)( \mcric111 pffke \\orkm·;;
T HI ~~ \-.;
Rel.txing t h 'ct ,q )(ll";J.lt' ~.hl'"" ..:'\h.k· ".ts ttlll..'llt.k:d to d i mmtsh tho c btt: J"dr ·lu\..tl harnLr" th:u
,lf'irClttr.lgcd a t1 1urc Ctllk•giill \\llrkingtmllL)sphell I nltL"rout uft~ll' lf.lppt'.lnngnld f.t,..lm. 1 td "'
lllll \\.lilting t1J pl.tee tlh·tn,~hn 111 rhe path (tl.\\ll:tt 'l'l'I1H:d h] e.1 culnu·.1lul.:~l \\ ..1\-t 111.111 g r Lc~Tl
guru.s t';lg('rl} jlltllpPllllll t h~: d1\.'s-.
dcm 11 h.md,, ngnn 11:1\ing emb1·.1u~d the l :1 u.ltn:11d \ nl ~h."
t.e.tl, the} ueglcc1ed Ln .mal)ze" hcther the \t,l...,teruf the L nncr)\e~ Ill'\\ duthe-. mJL:h. nud u '-l
Rcg.trd!t.·~-. qf ir:- 'inllL'"· bu ine~~ Ca'LJ.ll has l:OtnpltcarcJ the II\ c.:\ t r lllt f1 \\ l Ill..

thnught thl·m ...chc-" Immune to 1:a.hHm \\ lulc dt.:\~tnP\ nr-t.: j:unmed \\ltb upLJt ('t ll.tr h1 t<•
and (,tsu:Il <::l.1cks. mo~r l''xecuti\e-. l...ccp a 'JJ.II\~ 'llit and .1 coupll' of nccktH:.., m tht tr ( f h.l: h r
tmpr<.)mptLt m~ctings ..'\t mo~t cnmpaniL·s. old l'l:OllOlll} cllnft~, (me.nnng 'lilt' .md tt J r~
-.t iii Jll,llld.Ht ll') l~ll· llll'L'ting.~ \\it h uld cconolll} dieJl!!- It!) i11g ro juggle J\Hl drc.: "' n t jl \\ ull
lllixing intern:d \\\lrk ''irl1 cilt:IIr l·m:I11g \\urk h.1s lc{Ltllnll} men ''ith a!'!inki11g fcdang that th
l)ld ruJt:, li:l\L' bt'L·n dinH' n out. n ith nnthing to put in thL"ir plrKe
.\It h{ ~t~gh rhc in it i:1l e\·idcncc i.'> l.1 rgt:l) .l!teccft.,r.tl the drt:.•s do\\ n plll'n muH'll
.lppc(11':-. w be si,Kking ~)cr Thl' tcrh !-C(tl1r meltdll\\11 fl'lll\)\Cd '\(.)lU(' or rht' 111( 11\.lllllll bduud
casu.1l d res~. There .lt\~ '-'~rm\ i ng'- i nd i~.·::n iPn · 1h.n dre . . 5.ier dorbe, nrc ~..-reepmg h.KI. 1111 ' rht
\\ o rk ~, l.h."c
\ \'hiJe (\• nic:- arc ~till nur C1.JI1\ incccl or a true ttpri~ing tO\\ JrJ lllnt1..' pc lt-.hcd drc' ll~
orw Lhing j, certain Tht· dor-com cr.1Z1.' rh~t lll•)k nfflikt.• a t'l'cker <md t~ll hk~ J m~l lu. rt.J tht.
l;"~nd:-Glpt' bnrh cHitur~ll} ,lJld .:-anonall). Th(' l.'ll crufca"u,1l f-rid~I) fu1lon~.d "hl'tih then..Jf1t.:r
b, (orp()rntc C:l!'ll<ll c111 bL· , ic" cJ as a bu~i 11~"' gtl\ \ gra~)roob mo\ t.•ment the mag• "l h '' '
dl..':-;irc LO lt,uk and feel cnm(orwblc Cun~unwr drl\cn .;;qlc Jm: cnnw Dfagc mtld{tmzmg tht:
lll&llr'du~l't \\ithit~mc .-.agt.'l)(!'utKiiOIJ,IJldCt)llllt rt. \\'ithalllC\\ t:hhion\3Cut1Jfllt..1ftll '-". ttJI
cl H hl':-. IIL'"l\\ haltg 11L'XI tl) slliL". t.iPl'!-Sittg ~.·ach othL'r up •lr dlm 11 a~ rlw tJC(.l I( n dcmmd" I '
bdil'\ t: t hal Lhc- comf~ sit in j .. tll)\\ ab~.1uL (I) ... u...-L"ttlllb l•' dJt? '-l.lr~h, one l!<o. J df""Jlll In nth r
,, or~.1 ... 11\ ~oing tu he t•.ntgh rn wr11 h:Kk till' clock
-1 he ch.1llcngt.:s po,t•d b} n (.:buaiLL'HT•tlr.ltt! clim.ll(: huuld nut d1"
tr:lG tncn fn)IIJ thl' l.1rg~.·r goal n( becommg more lneJah.: .1buur "h I thtrr
PREVIOUS PAGE bu,ine~~ (l1th~' nw.m. Ikcna..c ~bent t.'XPL~cmtion' conunnt: tt. .,d dn.:,, f' ,J
J.,--amiug how to ll'ear i1 suit
iL·, fi)r llh>"l ''ell nwnagt~d bu. lllC'"t'' making one\ da1h Jr"· " nwr d c.m
witlzout a fft' i11cn•ascs thL'
corporal£' casual options.
" ··
'l'Jl-;JllH' ,Jll)ll 1~l1 l'l'
L •Jll'i\l cb nnpnt · t.Hl t •1' h Lmul''
;:: ~ 1\!~
(Jnc·.. I tn'-'ll ~ md
J prc:o>ent:uion . . !...ilk \\ h1lh mam ambinou~ c\~CutiH~' dt.-dtL.Itl.' thc.:·n . . d L' t
- ---
rhr<'ttghtlUt tllt.'lr c.1r~ers. clt.lthc. :ue th~.-· mo:-t po\\ crfullh. lll\'t'rbal rot'!.; of CUI111J1Lillir.t
l
I
L IJ1(:l?

u 1.:m \\In ;;houldn'r rhn bect'llll' an ctTtx:rih· tore~.'' in one\. L'\t'r~lll bu~mc,, sn·ateg}? .\nd \\tth
tht: ~.·orporat~ (.t... u.ll phcmltnt:'non helpmg Lo lunhcr r~.·nm' t'' :til) --rigm.1 fl'lllll men put rmg
mor~ ~fton uno\\ h.tr rhe~ \\eal~ rhl.:' rime h.1' ncH'r been nH.wc prupitiow.
In l!nlt on~ mw' arrn\.' f~w rhe lar~~.:·r bu,inc-.~ mi~:-.inn. thl? illeal or··businc_-.s .1ppwpriate
~ ~

,tltlfl.' 'huuiJ be l'\.ll.~lldcd tD indudc (he dr~~" dl)\\ll (\pl iOJl \\ hL'l her lll:ltChing till" s11lc or 1 he
d1enr '' 1th .1 k ti1rnul oud1t tt..1 mnl..:c him l)r Iter fet•l rnun:· :lt c:hC l'r ~.-·.1llin~ utll rl1e pin~tnpc
md bmgut.''- h-' cnnnn.mdeer rht! simmiun. ''hu~incss c.P•u.11 drc..,~ing.. ~hl'Uid b~.· ~~ubr~Kcd mt h~r
rh•m c chc\H.J •L'· one more w~~1pon in rh~..· bu:-inc-. . . mall·:\ ar,cnal. T he n.~:-nlt ~,;hnuki bl· :1 b11sin~ss lh o;l N'H S

tppmpnate ·t)lt.· n( dre:--. .1ncl a\\ a1\l1·0lw cap:-~ bit· ll( ~e~un lc~~lr ~cci 11g_o1k' fnm1 '' l) l·k tu wt.:ckend CAlif Al

1 1.1m thmg ttl b'-'l"\\cen

GU IDELI ES FOR BUSINESS-

1\PPROPRI I\TE DRESS

• 1 he fii.,t mc.t~unng 'nck ~~~r bu~ilh>:-. .ntirc •dwuld bl· dc:l nlinc"~ l :liclll~ prefer their
prpfc siunal klokilJg well gr(1\Hncd l:a-.unl Ll res ... ing i:' Ill) L'XCttSC r~)J· ltH)king ~Jopp).
n 1111pleJ. or 1.111" J'hcd

• \\ ht.'n in doubr .h ro the rorn~C'l ,lttirc for a ~pecific bu-.inc"~ IIICcting. 0pt for .1 'uil.
Drc .,. d1..1\\ n \\enri ...,'till rd.niH~I) nt.'\\ to the (nrpor.ne ~1rcnn •md :-tillll(lt pcrcciH~d a-.
profc,\IL'tl.ll ,lfld po"~r(u] a the cia sic bu~inc'~ cn~emble

lfun,Urt: .tb,\ut an ucl"n . . ton-. lc\cl offormaliq mcr'"1r·:~\iug is the safer bet ll} drcs~
111g up lltlt onl~ do' nu pa\ .l complimcm to) our dit:nt. cohort, l_)r cum pan}. hut} nu
.d\\,1\ .. h.n e dw ('puou of rt:"mo\ mg onr.: or me 'Ire .lrtid,:, of Lbth111g.

• Dn.''' rn lme \\lrh hmr "-Upcnor" and ll~\cr more rn.!'lhlll~ th.w )Our 'ubordiJJau·s lk
(.u •.Ju] nut rt drc 'l!lto;lldt :1 rdnxed m.mn~r th.tt )'" ' nulnngl·r ll't'k like -..)Illl'P ih.' "ho
Glll b~com'" nn .mrhl'rtt) iigurt?

• \\1ilh:h:t" dl'thc~ \DU LhO•ls(' to \\c.:ar w \Htrk make 'llr•' the,• h,lH.' the "~llllt' dt~l'.lC
tLrt It\. dt.u \OU louk l~)r 111 .t f1tlt: snit glmd nt,Jterr.ll fine\\urknwn~tlup. nnd ~\cclk·m
ht Bm the. be"t qualil) )'Ju c,1n ntFmd 11kc om:' cdth...lllnll t.lothing ~~ .111 imt:~o:nncm
m \our lianu't;
 --- ------ -----
Bu!-incss cas.ual :111ir~ i~ t) picalJ) brokt~ll dtm n into muhiple cntL·gunec; dt·nntmg ,, ~ 1
ing Lfegr~cs of lllfl11:1lit'). SUCh :'ts .lLli\ 1..' C:l!\U<II. "POri) ca:;ual, or .snl:liT C:ISU:ll. a_., dw trend 1

known i11 [ngl:tnd. In thr intc.?re~t l)f simpltcit} and ~tructurl.' I ant g~.,mg 10 di, 1de dw cnt\:r
pri'c it tiLl t:wn Glmp~. drc~ up busines~ cas11nl and dre~r;;-do" n bu,jnc ., La1\ual The dr0 , up
bu~itlc'' c.n~gor} rangr.s (rlllll the Jres l,:d d{m n uit m an t:n,cmble of ,l•parah: .. fur 111 cJ
ni\)tllh.f the tailured j~Kkt'l t?~dW'ii\L' ol 11 IHYktie. \\'ith thu; j.tc.kct driHm option thl.' 1111'1'10111'\

h> l'\li11111Ul1iCalC the- ~:llllC' dcgn.·~ or :1\lthurit) and prnf'"es~ionaJi~m as lhl' tmdittlmaJ bu~ime . . ~
... -~
-)Cl uniflll'lll bnr ~.m a k·~, ~l!trchy \\:1\ d~ngth
DR£.):,J SCi :\ ltcrn~tli\ d~; d r·r.:=-.~-du\\ 11 busi 1H:"'S C!ISIJ!iil hm rwo-piece ofli.ce an ire rankt11g beJm, rhc:
l'i l

j:Jd~t·t~uri~nh.·d ou t Cit in drt's!-lil res!-. httr ~lhtl\ t' tlw [1f'l.:..'iscd jl.'~Hl:-i atld :spon. 'hin lunl l nnnnJ) to
THe i\lAN

\dwt \Vall Street Llr rhc \Vhanon Schn~'l IIUl) hme nni'dr rl•n.sor1crl b) jt•tti,mllng the ~Lm and
neck tit· uniform. the~· ch..•,r:Jt~..:d 1he ld1:1ki ~tnd polo .shin unift'lnn into the 111..'\\ (ummun dtc.'\'i dm' n
~..l~·ntllllillator. \ \'hilc cnrp1 mltt' Gl,ual attire '':1s imendcd to ben more comfortnblt nnd 1es-. l~mlul
aht:l'll<Jti\L' [Ll the ch:tS'\1( Mllt :111d Ili.:.'Ckti~? rcgilll(", it "3!"-1 also ·u ppo~ed to COJl\C\ cUl Ullage ofbusJ
nc:-:slikt• intcmiDn. But commq tn popular thmking no combination of dre 'pam .md \lun \\til

l'\Cr [in
r rhc aurhorin .'\c:tk· at :11n \\eight
J ~
~lpnnxtehing
1r ~
that t.lfthe da!!sic bu!'!lne-, ~uh l'll"l'lllhlc
\ \'ith that Ill""' ted. rlwrl? arc man} ":l) ~to make the rrou~er-.-.hin par4tdigm more C\l:-
uti\t? ·lot)king and bu,tnc-.slikc. "hich "ill be ,Iddrc.,:.ed lml:r. llo\\t:h•r dre' up bu lllt''-!ot
c:1su:tl olrcr-. the h ighcr probnbilit) l,r rcm.1ining buth snnoriallr :md ..:oculi} rdc\Jill m cr the
kmgcr term wh1ch is wh) it i.s L'mph:1sizcd in this chapter.

DRESS -- UP BUSINE SS CASU1-\L:

TH.E THIRD v\'ARDRO BE

___ L.-f'"orc men·,'' cckcnd drc.s!' stepped down ton pair,,{ :;neakcr~ .md jc.ms. 1L1 gu) \\ tJfc
~roir1u
C b
out st 'cialh~ he wou ld usuolhr step l'lll in wh:tt used robe tt:rmcd "taJl.,red port. \h.'CU'- 1(
J I

hL· didn't dono "1'01T jacket .Imlllcckric, he m:u:lll}' shl''" L'd up in ~1 rhrcc pi~r~ outfit c" mpn. L'd
ora 'f"PITCLJUt or '-WC.arcr \\ irh h;lt"llWllizing \.11\: ·' p:tlll\ ,llki OPL'Il colbr·~?d 'Pltrt 'hin 11res~ ur
bu!\i tlt'SS Gt."u::U ,, retllr ~111 upda1cd vl·r.siorl t'( 1har 'l)lllt'\\ h:1r old fu~hwnc~..l mix-and march
rormula. with the ~h.iJed IJIIip l)fitKrC':I!"\l'd \.'(llllflU"I and per~tmal e.xpre,:-itm.
-ri>d:n. nH.>~r men·~ dPst:t" ar~.. ,tl lL:k~..·d "it h somb~r 'lilt~ ft"lr t bt• \H!>rkd.n .md lob dotht.·'
for the \\·cckL·:1d In pulliug ti·om 11cith~r thl' pinstripe: Jlt)r the jean-. :-1de nf the cln,t'r dre'>-, up
bu~inl'ss c:tsunl demand~ ;1 dre,,rng qvle and a wHrdrobc th.tt bib 'onll'\\ lk'l'l? Ill bct"~cn one that
- clmqntere~..d f~K
iiKorpor.nc~ :-;pJtly · 1...~..·t, 1111..11 ~.He~
1 • · • • "'th
trou . ·.u~ ' Hn t:.. quuin
• '"eaten; Jnd ~ron
-.hin-. L1 nl~H·tun~u<'l}~ tr) ing LG .lY'-cmbIe outflt, '"" 1n.1llllll1lll.W
- . ..-1 1ca' , c·par.uc.., re-.,mn!.,
~, dr~. 'tnt! ..111'
... ..1

men nc:\ cr Il:tltJ to 1earn 111 I :->Lilt·

· allt.'SC 1Lbl\ c) llrll'lltc?d '' (lrk erwironmcnL

----------- - - - ---- --
 -------- --------~

~C LO R1 TG U.P ):YO UR DRESS - U I)

BL- ~ I N ESS \~lARD ROBE

Up bu"illt''' l."a,ual forrC' .I lll:tll to ("(lOrd j 11:11 L' tailPrl'd l'fl 'CmbJc, lll:tdt" rrom d j 1--
fertll£ tilbno fhe c.L-.it.:'t: \\&t~ to pull ro~cr her unm:Hdh·d ''-'p:u·:nc.:-; i:-- rhrmr~h the mellium of
,_(1
colur \good ntk· of thumb" hen lummnizinl;! dlrt~e dil"t~·rcm !'t'pnr.nc~ is to keep two pit·c~ in _.,~

rhc >.;1me t"l..ll L)f C·Hnil): Thi~ <1pp nJ:,,-h :-;impliCit'' tht..· melding pror~c::- and Ih ' rdds a murc t l.'-tW Bt'S1l'H5
CAst ..u
(Cllltt mp 'lrl'lq 1magc J or example. p.tiring thi:-- nn' )' Ctlrduro) sp,Jrt cuar :md n:l\ y k11it ~hi rt
'~tnkc ;I more IUlldern mo0d (1~/i) th:m t.tking rhc ..;;lllll.' blue j:.Kkcl and wcaring.1 difl~·renr color
,hjn (nghr) \\ tth ir' gr:n trOU:...er~.lnki ng tilt~ I."OilCt:p[ Olll' ~tcp (un her.\\ caring L';l(h piClT j ll a di r~
l~·rent h.m.tltn tt.md, . (,In
t,, achie\ e a more traditional mn,Jl.l, .1s Hlll 'il't' from 1his beige ·Jilck~r.
~

pead1 knit Pl'll). •md d.1rk bn''' n -.l.lC'k l'll.,t:mbk· (Jar r(~ht) .
....,l10ul~..l \nu \\Jnt to .lCLCk:t·cnc dt~.:' EbhiPn rempo. kct•ping all th ree pieces in the same
LL "-'r lnm1l~ packs up the p.h:L' ~ \~ thc.f;t,lziollistci~ l~arned b) nL"quinng a prcdnmin:111rlr bbc-k

.\flm: moJrrn. l.ess modern.

 I - -~

"·JI'drt)bc~ ~,,,tthing tht'llt..,el'c' hend ,., ltmt in nne cuk11· n,>, unl} rcdu\.ed th~tr marg 111 t1f
'-'1'1'01', it unil(irttlt'd them in a kiud or Sll"t.':tlllii!Jed C'tJOI. Acce" ori.dng .! "tWl In .1 mun \t11fll:d

pnl~..·n~ 1111bll\.'!" ir" it h ill~t.mt sll'cknc"' and nmdcrml): a" C\ ide need b} th1~ charcoal md.mgc of
gr:1} tunk•nt-ck l"\n gr.J) tl.11111d. \\ h.u·~ ch::~ngcd in tlw nt:\\ millennium 1S that men hJ\L'
k·.tnwd he''' tp embr.Ict· lhcir exi,ting \\:11'\.lrohl.' h~ 'Lr~rchiug ns fa~hmndb1Jir~
\ prc,li:-~~ionnl lol1kiug oudla rdiLs lHl :1 n·n41in le\~·1 off{,rmaht) w Ct1me\ ~tnhvnn J
I pri llll' l'oi 11 L ot- LO tKcrn " lwn \.lr\''~i 11g d, H\ 11 I ~~~~ Lilli form or robe:-. c•f am hnrit} itgw c" :-~uch ru.
J ju\.lg( -.. bm en(()rC.t.:llll:'nt uiTir~rs (1r dcrm nre u::-ual1) m <.brk. ">olid Ct)lor-, na\' or hlac.k ~um\
Dnr... 1 ~~;
ume-. 1111:\l'll \\ith \\llit ..•. l)usiltc~.s "liits .trc- 11picall) rcli~.:.·\l'd b) light~l~ ~one dr~s~ 'hu·rs ,,J,iJ~
nJ r !\I 1 ~~. nH~n·, I~Jrlltalut'~ll' ft.;:\ nh ~,, :m \lllld th~ Ll,l,, il·li!Jck and \\ lme co~tttmc \hb<."'llgh t"')" h(,IPglt~l~
\..t1JI'il .. ler hint!....l11d "hit~,.• th~ lllllst .nnltt.Jri1~1ri:m nt· all co!ur comhlllnt1un illch lugh ct)ntl.lSI
d,J~,.· llDL lbt 1(!J' l~, l:'n. n~tt•'s 1:1cial Ct ~~~~ring~.
~

.\" di::-:rus. ~d t.~arhei: a man·., C\ unpfc:\tnll and

ph~ ·''lllle sri II (Onstinu~: rhe main cnmpru for hr~
, dec! itJll or clothing (OJ or, :md I he1r Idea) Cl t lrd liLt
tbuugi1 darl~er hued h.1nnon1e\ happen t\1
ti1 111. EH'li

ht• in' c1gu~

•
that i. no rea~on tC1r the fmr-ham.~u light
skinned t'Xc\.·utih~ ro ~-.ho,, up mnmled 111 a C'JCt'piR'm
nr dark color:-. Likt?'\ is~· lf}"ir1g tn pl'll)Cf~ :1 lc C~re
mPil h1l oiTice iJnJg\. 1" no excu:"~e tn -,nf:n nl'rgc .1 lu~h­
CL"~IHmsr \' i.,~ge
... in .1 ~~~ ~)(ant"lllit· tuned .Ipp.tn·l
<.. )n the urchitcl'tural side. JU'>t as contrJ~t~ng
top~ ~111d borrom~ can unnert:.."~~1ril} dimrm'ih -hnrtt.:r
lll\:'!1 , darh·r nnuscr-. \\'ill mike ~p 1rt jad~t'l' npp<.-.tr
drc~~icr. In en"h ing n n1rpor;uc Gl u:~t 'nk· tlf drc '
that bnt h tl:urL"r' and prllje:·ch pmf~ .. ,,onall~m 'nu
must nPt '-tra' roo far fl\ )Ill tlm..e mdn idu.u gUide
•
J'• "l~ 1h:u dt( t:m.• nuc cnJ....1r :.t r~ItCg) V\t'f :tlH.li hL:C

LEFT
J Icn·$/ww lt1}trsfriotr a 5U(LT5gii/
rnmmctwu bctwcnl,l bn1n·u ;portja1kLt
11.11d ramd umfnlt'L"k ttsinggolll·hut·dluTinmd
/f~hur·tout•d
... skiu ltllre/p detcrm;nr rbr idrul
tWitlrtllt t!{col1f1'tJJt to .•lwn· bc:low.

OPPOStTE.

Ki:('jJitlg rl1e (t'l"r sclrt'mr UJtlJJCHilJ~

rcztdrt'ts tip the cJ;semble's anJ in ellis CU.St"..
tltt· suits modrrnitr.

---~
-------~~
 ----
I PI.EC I NG TOGETI-IER Tt-I E
1
ORE - Ul BU ., fNE S-CA UA L
\t\1A RD I' 0 BE

lw drc.,~ up bu~iriL~'' c!l . . ual "nrJrohc rl.'\uke~ .trnund l\\\ j~teket on~nh:d ~("eu.m"
Dra~1-.t~a thE' 1hrt'L' piere '-t'p:trarc~ c-n~emble and dw nornie ,uiL <:nufir \;inc~ mn ..t men ha\(. )t; 'l'Xp~n
ntr ~\I lN
encl! drL·,~iug d1n\ 11 a sui\ dt:llltt'H illing up 01 sport· j~tdn:-r l~r·~ t;mn \\ith tlw dar!· Lulurcd "'PL'rt
ith"kt":t \\ Oftl \\it" cl (ttl 1111d ~l'\\ ll or ,-.. ,llatvd knit ~hj rl :'llld 3 pai I Of \\~11 pn.'s~J dr~~' ,JJt"k'
1\n::lW•t' it\."\')\ ~r., rht·large;;t pt,nion c,( tl1c bPd). th~ jJcker "rt~ 1he culor d•nx-ttonti.Jrthl'
r~.:?'t l>l 1he team. \ .; ~plm co.11' nrc apprL1primc in nH.Hit c.1sual bu,mc ;-s 'l rting' n htgl quJitf}
"ell milur~d jackt!t 1 cntiLal lf) tht.: drt' up
l bu.sine.'i~ Cl'iUal \\Jrdrolx 'tnn \\llh .1 l< xnurd
r
dark oliJ or ubtir pan:crned splln (OJ.t llli..Hlt

u f l h~ pO\\ L'f llCUl raJ ,f1Jdt'' of llJ\ }· dur~tul

lbrl· bnJ'' 11, or raupc ( ; m1mkk1 JJd~t: ung" ,m;
tiJI J lllr..'lllf'll'abl~
f<.1r muJ tJpl~ 'H .tnng... "t 1 'nd
'' ith tUtdl?r~l:a[r_:d p:mrrn~ at the bcgnmmg
\~'ith thl· spl.ln L'tl::tr fiHKiioning J'i dw.

I c::tp:-;u]c col1x t":Imil) ·~ ccmcrpiccl' 1>.urrnund Jl

'' i 1h rd:ncd !\~.:"'}1J.r:li'-'" JoiJm, ing the gmddu1r
o((t..)Qrdin:u in~ n' o of the thr~t: gJrm<:·m '· ht·~m
.
l:n lmrmon iz ino rhe ux.,u.-.er \\it h 1he j.lcku 1hr
~

btHlOll.:- or JlltU '}tOn jack~t often \.""011}(' Ill 3

complemem:.u1 nmn-ast s.hndt.•. -.o its J 1:m

t'llt"
~
-' ' th:u rn.ms('r: chtht'll 111 tht: .um.' llln.tln
"ill match rhe j:-~cket prl'lT} \\ dl \\ ith t lw i.:lckc·t
and rrPtbi?r in a "itmbr hul' 1hc ... hin G.tn c..-ith~l
be in ~ll:LliHF.l!\t or: ~o.Jnal rd~uon-.htp It~ loth. it ..
~:vordin~ltltll! ~..1in.lll.'d h} } Llllr o" n l:t''HllJ k~\um
~nd prr~utlal I.l~f·.· I( the :-hirt 1~ muhi ·olur't.'J.
c, 11c ,}(its ,::, )lllfS -.lmt11d c_cho tb.n ut" dw I·Kkci
and 1 rPmet: L)n!,"' \\.n to hoot up u.;u.tl mtt.·J\~~a
i~ ro cmplO\ a p:111ern on p.-Hll: n1 l r.th:·g~

,, l1i -h \.~Oilll'' with .1 c~na1u ri.:-k hut c.m prHducc..·

h.mJ!-, )Jilt' dt' idcnd . ._
 ln\.: ~Almplc of~·\oh mg 'lh.·h .m uuual \.·.1p,ult· '' .trdrubL· mi~ht ,t.ll't "it h .111lltbnlid.
) II p.utt rtl:d [\Hl ~-(,ftlr J.1L."k{'[ Ill .l prcdomin.llll ~han·o.ll :-h.tde. \\ ith l.lll cl' It' 'L'I..l)lli.Ltq
Ju.~nt ( ,f, r \11\:r .~t:qwrmg ba~JL" gr.t\ "-umponl~nt, . . uch 4L' rh.m.:oal Jlannd truthl'r-. ..1 gr.l}
j ' .,fn.: h ~ullatvd kmt .,(lin .mJ perh.tp' a 'm~ll ~r.l\ and t.lll panerned "'" c:-n -.pon 'hin
"til \\Jnt t 'PI,ltt the t.m '''-'~ L.,f the jacket\ color 'dwmc \pair llt-Cm n ("O\ en t n'll'l'r'
tn i mtr...hrn~ r m d I mg le~\l' roll.trt·d knu ,Jllrt ''mdd imr,khKc ir ni~.-cl~ '\.'till· gr.1) (nJ,,r
1 .. ..
ul \JJ 1 \ nl'~.-k \\L'atl:f\t;'t 111 ch:trco.d gr.t\ or i1 c.trdi~.lll in bru\\ 11. :.111d). ou'n: "ell \.hm 11
thl: dr," up ca u..tl nJad \\J thom bcmg fi.,r ·ed l\) nmke n bl.17er pit ·'ll'P _...,'
., I' .,

\~ t:u· .1 .. od ll.•r' JJL"kcr d rn ~·n PUL ii 1' g~,.. tlw 111h~·r"·m da~., inc'' {.,-the ~tngk· n r dot 1h le
~ ~ Rt $1Nf.

hr•t t...d rl.t\\ hf.tzcr .tnd gr~l} tn..tll"icr l·oordillntiClll \\ould ~-''-"'11.~1inh be high t'1ll dw list '\.l'\.1 CA."I A

n gin t lim\ .1 I\'"'\ .. r.trch fl'll\lll1 m .._,.(the bl.""·r lnok pcrhnp' a p<ll tt:ml.'d nr t~o.":\ttJ ll'd d11rk
IUl p U t (CJ lt that CtluJd be pmn:J \\ nh l hl' bl.!ll."r\ 11:1\} .md gr;l} :Kl"t'""'rlf..'' ltkc I ht" \-11111rh:l

uaun h,·r~~.· ( )nt.: .llt.t,;rnarl\e h .l thl' da -.ac 'P ,n coat" ould he 'cHn~ '\.!r'iLlll l'r tilL.· ,:~f:m ,ackct ,
lak thl: ~d111t FKkl•f. \\lndl L.lll ~.t,th multu.bk to :lL"COillllhllhHc .1 br~.iad sptYtl'lllll Llf~o.it"l.'''l'd ­
dl \ 1 lltL'rtl. tlh.' u~h .1 ... d11, modcn1 a sL·mbbgc uf d.trk huc"i .'~p:tr:Hl·~.

A slurr ;acklt am be JrcrscJ up or dowH.

 II J I

''''-·JICI \-.II,, .111Jtlltl I''' \\CI(ll '.llllltlll II'\

!till,..! ''U'\1 \ ll\il~.lll \\1111 ltq'l pttlllt' till' I

DRC" '
1111 \I '

Cm·dlgiiii.Jiwll )'lt"kc1 'll't'ollt'l'

an ~!llotbt•r \1',1)' fLl drtS' up rht

dn·sr. dl,,l'll /,,t,k
 --------- ----~---

1rh ~{ mt~-.rt dictating otTk~ dt!(Ortllll. th! da.:-~ic spP•T C\1:1r mu.'t bt!Cl1111C mt•rc Lhan
.t \l.''"\.·luf nulc rc-,pt•n4tbilit} Jt I wed' to (Ombi m· '" t.•att.·rlik~ c0mlt'n "ith bu:"~inc ..!'ltkc protu
,·ol \\ hl·rt'J' 'ou ~lm updJtl· the rradino11.11 'uit b~ painng ir '' 11 h n rnrrl~.~Jh'\k or ·r ~:-hin. try
mg m rl·nd~ rhosc -.rrairjacker.. . fro111 the sc\ctuic~ or ci~lllit.'.' underm111~~ Lh~ ~nrirc
l"rttt·rpri'c hc~.-dti,L' d1~1r pa.ddcLt torm.tlity belie·" tl'>da) \ mudL·rn c.I:-u;Iitll.~''·
fltt~ mo~t 'cr a tile and t'Ollh:'mpr:waq jnl·kct ~I) I(· i~ the Thrce bunlln. si nglc-brc:Jstcd
mudd '' i[h cJft n1lk·d front~. hghd) p.1ddeLI 'ho~t l1· r". <llld notch lnpd::. B\?Glu~e ~lf its <;o(t·
undcrpm11i11g' '
.md threl.' button fi'Onr. it c1n be'' 1l1'n in ':1riou~ bunnn con(i~urari~m~ one ~

butt\.,nt..-d .u the\\ at l. dt'lll\? up" nh it\ t"o uppi'J' bulln11:-. or lct-r open. like a cnrdigan .:-\\carer
.llb~..·tt "1rh nwn.' f~1m1 ~nd snucmrt~ \\ ·hilc mo .. t llll'll ~lrl.' l]Uic:k w rcmtn c rhl·i r jacJ...l!t" upun
~..·trlmg uno tht•ufftcc rhi dc.mdld..c garment might ('llcour.lg~ them t<.l ke~p rhcmun.
\nd l1k"~ th(' ..,;mtou:- (ard1gan .,,,catL"r. the ~l,fd) comourcd :-p0tT ja~.:"kl.'t can be \\tlrn

IIKrcmcnt&llh lllflgcr. \\ hen mared '' i11l .1 'aricq ofloug ~~t:~\·e kn i r'. ~uch :b Lll nkne(b or pt'l~ '~·
11 k·t'\ l' ll.'ngth ~an ..1l~o drop ,.Jightl~ lo" er 1111 rill· \\l'i,t. Thi:-; .1dditinnal :-lee\ c length Ime' up
l:wtt'l'r \\ nh rht..' jackt:•r'-. h,,n~c-r k·ngr h..md wgct her t hq pr01111 ten nwrt' rl·laxcd bt'd) l.mgu.1gc
\\ 1uh.· the older man tl'nd~ tu f:tH)r dw d.l''ic t\h' ·bunf'll rc• rht~ IIC\\ l!r three buttorJ
Jackt>l mudd (,1ltl1•mglt the rhrce~bun~m j.Kkct pr<.'datt:d it, l:l'lhit."ll~'' i:--~) either i~ p..:dccd) :JL:~'t'pl
.1hk· I h~ Llouble brea.,rcd )Jt:ket i~
.tl'-ll m opUl111.•drhough. bccm.;c- Jl

1'- 'k b\.·nt-r hntnmcd up. it tcn'-h t~l

'
li..IU\<.' .1 -.J,glttl~ dn:,sa~..-r pt.' "tlm:.

\\ htk Jll thrt•~.: JclCket ITilldd:t can

be 'n lr hi\ \' ,,m ro (\.m\l'\ a mon.·
I

ra u.1l bu uw ~ 1n.mncr. at\ u~u.tH}

Jt,m · r aht~r rh.m ·" I"Wt \JilC \h:,u-s
rh.u dt,ungm .. he." both the appard
.m 1rh"· mJn

The llll'' SI'Drl cod I nuds to

combmt· su e:attrW:t.. com(o~t
~

witlJ brmnGUkc J'rotocol.

 UNf-f lNG I NG TIZADITION:
DRESSING 00\\! N THE SUIT

_ , l'L"iet~ ·s :-.man scr h.t" lwen :"'puning suit!i '' uhout rk·. hw man} )t"_;u-... .1 .. \\L. nlht•nc both
C,H'\ l ;rnru (brlmt~ ~~nd J,trl.. 1\om 11'1' }llcquditH' k~nnt·d} l 'na"'''" 1:u:h ·r (opJ''"IIc) .il-qurttmg
t h~m:-t•lvl' .. '' i1h ~..-lrar.rcteristic aplnmh "-tuch :t '{1guL" h.HJ pn.'\Jl1usl} !wen a,nrt,wd w rhc 111'11
Dll t I '\ c
bu.-.in'~'~ arena (I( r~..·~1wt or ~P~'r·r~\\'C~tr~ hl'i\\C\L'r. oncr lt.1Ifnn J~.,tgltt'r (.,n,rgto
t. •

l HI \-I 1\ ~
'l't'ri,Hor
\rnu111i unhirch~d th~Miit fJ\.>111 ib unbL·ndi11g bDx-nl n hltt'ines . . unif~li'IJJ in the ft~Hus \H~Jnng

tt '' ith11ut .1 de h~camL"· b(.)th :t lugio:nl :J thJ p~l"lll.lUCtll l~t!·hiun

\\'hi I~ the 11111,:rnet gener~u i•m gn''' up not ha' i ng l\.J \\ ~tr ~~ Hlll t.o \\ ork 111 ~..·sd ''-'' m~
'\.'1kc.s and jem1s f~.1r HKkcd in ,!Jjn.,. and cknh~ tku fit true w ~zc mnn} '~ ungt•r men ha\c
rcdb(O\ ~rt'd l he sui r. The \\ell ' l.'lll sui 1 slill hn, ,.•x ~ppectl ·rbdirional men can nv lon~t r aJil.u·d
to htJc bl•hind tlw "lilt- rh<.'\. nc...:d ru n:•itl\t''rll il.
Th~f'L• arc m:m} Ill'\\ '' <l}' to\\ c-:1 r ~u. u i 1 h d.I). Lk'Glu~c it h:b undergone :1 makl'('\ ~rm buth
f~tbric and consrructil1n. ~\ lnden 1 t...:d 1110log) h:1' pr•x!un:d Iabrie" light~.?r and llll)f't.' ..upplt" dun
'' nu1J h:n!! been bdic' cd unl) d(·c.ldl .1g\l
.1

t..:nmbin~,1 \\ rrh cl ~.;nfr COJl'ti"UOtOil W•ing

lighter p.tddmg and thinnl'r intt.·n:1cmg' tlu~
furmt..:rl} hor :md rc•a rkt h c d t.td,·l (,j ru1iug
cb~~ :nnhorin h~1~ drm11loadcd it . .di into rhe
•
ulrimar(' !'tufT\\ ear.
Lc:Irninc-!... ht l\\ tu \\ ~.lr .a -.un \\ n huur
a t i\.:· affords 1 he bLI'iinc ~m.m lliW more
l)pponunirr ro ~..·xtend hi. r.111gl· \lfo..,rp 'mtt."
c:bmU optiLm;-; . \c(C...'-'uri.zing. the ~1m '' 1th
~t 'met hin~,
.. 't her than ir"' n1-.rum:u'\ fnre lt:.ld'
it :ma) f"ro111 it!' roml'i. hLmcH·r l·mbmcing
-.uC"h ~1 :-.f) lei:- not abow abandt~ning tlu.: \\.1\

men h~n c dre:-,t..'d in rhl' p.;:Jl\1 It· .1bnw np n

in~ up "·hokes tor the" J~ rh~·} ,,111 dr'-'' in
dlt' rm Lll\?.
-~- - - · - -----
.............

LEFT
Heres Cm1' Gra11r nn-rching tlzr-. s:rrt~ sariorial bt1undar1tL
OPPOSITE
_lad~ Hou1•it·r attd daugllto}arqudiur iti rslaud.fim".
 Hfa.·k Cci$}1111fl't' tlll'lft'lh'Ck
black amlwlwt' pl,uli $It 11
~~ru)1.llHt raH, f~a{~lh Lmtrcn
 Let me the backd1op of~ classiC gray bultneas
swt to hdp illustrate some of the more pracnced aasual tech
mqucs. Without the dosed shin collar and necktie• ordert.~
glamour to highlight the face atld 611 up the \uid under the
chta the ~down •~me- must still frame the £tce-
\\1thout disna:tingfium it 111e button-down collar accortt-
ph~ such a mission. be~11use of bo" tts &stened..c:lown
pomb help 1t to stand Up around the wea~et! neck When
worn under a racket. ItS m placf' s~· ron~s ~ snappy
dan dt~mg up the face more than other sporr bin collars.
l.ayerii1g a dark T-sbirt t.tndemeath adds vaswal intemt
whiJe helping 611 tn the space left bj the open roHar.
\s a ~ nile. dosing a ~· collar cmates a
~ .mage bcc;••se rts relative neatric."Ss hdps tHe face to
;appear more iauporram: (see ptge Ul2) eamp,.st)ie tollm
should be a\'Oided af the idea is tOr the shirt alllar to .afd
~to the~ ja<\efsopen ~ Tbe~ofa
a.._,bmd~theirftat-lyingcoUats~dowtrtihe
~of~ neck. leaving the .thtuat uncovered aod the wearer
laxikingdLShev.ded.
Lt1ce\\i5C' a knit Jldrt buttnned at the neck imari
abl) ~ a tidiery less «.iisuaalool However.. •rs soft knit
colbr can be easil) ~ ~ the jackets sturdier
collar rt ~ ends up gcthllg tm;:d•ed oot of ~itil)n
and &o;ng down thr neck en-fins the face praonce This
can be awidedb, rnattng a JPOtl awt With only diose 1mit
!httts Rlillfewith the-~ m&sraua..eone1*"-sclf--:eo0at.
which SitS on.thr neck mudt h'h awown sport-shin tol~r.
~ ... me it;Jn~ •dt.rted• mod: tunJt
knitcoiLmliR•e ~~ 61berse:t~~- ~•J:•
tbJMt:hy ~&lw:• Oftfw d1M~P.¥f ~. . .
"**~~~ hsie~• eltt:attJ N ~ of b~.
ocu·~itwithancd•••~r.~tit
a .a•.- Jld&eti. ~ ~~
..... 'Vt••t;
........ -.
 I
In lhl' ru ... h Ill expand th . .· ...nnonnllmundanl' ( r ihl" "ttll Ct"rnun !!uiddmt~ ~l"l tr Pl

pled upun h w mstancc. t I"} mg to mnl. . ..: a \Ull j.td ct double J'- J -..pun 1:1. -krt g~.: n~.: ull} It \t"-1;. ",11
\\ tth nL•ither \uir n)m' tend to rl't.un thetr Jre.,,~ probh' h~ 'u1ut: of their fabnc e;.nu)( flh ur
[Kl'!'l .md rht•tr tlattt r. poli:-hed buuon' lltl· cxrc:ptiun-. to 1 hrs ntk \Hmld be tht ctt ......I • ctttttlll
g.tbn rd lne or the htrgl.!r-dun micro scale t: hl:d~ !1\UI\ J.Klt: t p.trticulLtrl\ 1( .lppnint tad\\ uh ..porn..: r
hnrn 'it) lc buttl111'-~ and p.ucb t) pt pocb:t!i
()pmt lW tlappcd p.udl [llXh.: t'- c.m .tbet .1 Jnd~et \ t.:asu~JI Jspt.r...IHt"ll"' Ja~kl"L ti ~.:uu u
'' i 11 t er -.:tilt of cordun ') llt' 1\\ ~cd \H"'uld .:&1'\o pnJb.1bl) mak~ rl11.: cut 1 Ji.,. \\ c .1nng .1 LtU1\ t.:ruh t:
D.RfS.SI'CI ,jngiL" (II((\\ ith culT linl...". :--pt)rtmg unl) Llll~ trtp h:tll (lc'll ~till U'iualh u1c.b up f.tlling, -.h~.lrt 111
TPl F i\1 .\ ~ bn t h sl') I~.:• :111\1 ~,..,phi "il ir.t t ion.

l'atclz undJ1ap pi1rkcts permrt

1his catt4m smt jad:n ra assume
tlw CLlmposure ~fa sporr coat.
 DRE -DO

bile a dark spott jacket can make an} man look more professiomd
bustn\: auual remoH5 the protective wrapping of such taiJored refuge to reveal
neath Built on the fOundation of the $pOrt shirt-and-trouser combiruttio~ ti· ~;(aj£C
m dressiness from.a h{!.tb-qu:dity cotton~~~ or sport shirt atop dark wooJ trousers to
'"ell pressed khakis or c~ fean below a Ane gauge. long. .sleeve. cut-and sewn knit:sl'ltC
h.>ng as ~las$tc fabrics and pattems are relit.~ up014 arriving :tt a busit~csslike
should not test the coordinating skills of the avernge fashion -pressed male-
Taking a page out of the t\\--o..p~ece suit' story. the le$s contrast gc!nerated by. ~~
tound abo"e and below the waistline. the dressier and more elongating the effuct. ltt ge. .
dark rolors worn under- the chin tilt the shirt-slack scheme toward the dresstet ide of
L41Sual spectrum Just as most shin--and-trouser cootditiations acquire an increased ..
when anchored b) a deeper-toned bottom.. sequestering darker colors on the lower half
body tends to produce a raUer. sltntmcr outbne
\\ ithout a j:tdcet a.~ the top layer. the shirt takes center~­
the hrrt component- to c01111ttahd authority. it should be collar~ pre£emb:l} c:trt
either one pit-ce or with a collar- band. These twa construetiotts help the ool1ar to
around the neck, better presenting the face.
Ideally. thtdte&-do\\n business-casual shin should haw long lcteves,sincee\'CA
up lt."C\'es canvey a more profussionaJ look than half leeves. lf:tavore.d. shor-t smcs rhar-
ro just above the elbow g.vc a slight~) more dignihed ~e thanmi~-btQ!ps -vers-.o
the Duk~ of Windsot: plF 76). Although the) till c;ommUrtkaJe an attitt.uk <lfleiSUte
k~ve knit! become lligbtly more business-appropriate when-paired-with dress tt01tsfl'S.
The fine-~ long-sleeve. collared knit pullover ha.., rcce.ml.y beCOJne .,..-.C!-
rne to the conventional woven sport:shirt. ~toned ca.tthmer.e~silltpdltowril1
neck. mock tuttle: or rollued mudef can lend .retln~nt w ca&ttr.al ~a Aidl~ the
sophistication depends on the fabax and. &msW. ~knint)_pS ~w.eu ~II
types. UoJn dms ~ to feat1B; cord~ tP kh•kis. Like-itt -wo m ~
shtrt houtd be~ 1ft~ ~lbt ®Ill',.. and ~lf4-(\W*: ~-
One way to rnject mdiWdsabty mto the. & ~ is 1:0
and tex~ ~ tilt parter~ the must &if-Mk.~h it to n.~a
or stnptd sport~ ._,fc;{ .olhl ~ ii'M: *115• ~ ~
~&om the shin a paftftiUtt ihe soJ14 bdttoa. ~- -
~w·•~•~ thetW4·- •·~ li
While ttxtua: ~ •
bP&~ •·lli!s~
._....,~oh~
 -
flh{L....tJ of ...,,plu,rKah:..-d In \\inter. m.lltL~ tlni 'bed knit.' or nnd} hru,hcd ,, 1)\ ('II~ (jill b~ p~ll r~d
'' erh rc,·mr~·J \.'"Wd'- ur !l.mnel p.1nr . . t 'ottl'Ht 1 .111 t.:'\cdlent natur.tl l:tbri(" (l>f trou.;ers. blll n
\ 111 t:\ J nmre L.bU.1I Jrnrudc dun 'H'l,J Jn tht: 'pring .md summt·r. litH.'ll HI)USer' crm bL"
JJJ~...J ttl Lht ma\ . •tlthou~h ~ 1n art of £heir ~h1c i:- in tht"ir t'bli~.ltOf) \\ rink!i11g Drc~!ilt'd lo\\ n
~ ~

l u..,nw"' lx"Hll\111" "hnuld be pre:-. ed ('fl p w c'\uJl' prul~- .. ~i ~uali .. m

1 he p.tncnwd \H\\cn rop ~md ~nltd hl'lttOm an:- th~..· bL"drock l)f rh..:- \Ire'~ dv\\ 11 bu~i
n~.. -. uutfh tntn.ldth..·in~ .mother Ll~ cr hdp~ m~.ii\(~l''i~ ing d1~.' lnuk. The th:cklii1L' o( l he rln~'ic
~r.l} f ,h, rt P'-·d~mg um from tllh.l....-r a sp, lrt :--It in·~ l"nil.1r cw <tdd :1 subtle tuu..:h ()I. i nd j, idunl i q. - ,..
,-
I nr..:rmg .1 \ llt!-~..-k t'f cudig.ln ,fec\clt's~ \l.''l nn t~'P i~ Jth.)tltl'l' tt·L"hni"'lllt:. Repenting a col,lr lhstNE
irum t hL' .:hll t ·, p.n te1 n " lHlld bl.' rhe m<l!"l d i rc~-, '' :t} 10 i llll..'~r:ll (" 1h~.,' 1hi rd brc r i 111 i' d1L' '' hole. c t\.)1 ,\
\\lui"'· "lum.uJ,... 11L'Cd n,, dr-.,tppenr bent•mh tl'l:ltt~cr tnp~ t{w a bu~itlL'"~ image. In} c'r ~" eatl'r-: 111:1}
h lt:ft umu ·lcJ
h 1111. nrtLlneJ. t ille undcn .1lued
hur urpn-.mgl~ U"-.:fttl.tddm~..m tn the \I~ I
tsh blL'm~ ' (.btul '' Jrdrolk' "ouJd bl.' dw
J.' <'tortlw 11\.:Ck&:'f'c:nf lr :-ub ltinnc f~1r.1
n ·lut.• under .1 !-tut t.:Jcket Pr pt111 co.H.
I
tr.m-.t~,rnung 1hc most humdrum o( [\\\.l~ I
I

pH.:Ct' mto .tn cn,t•mblt: of con:;idcrabll'

dn · \\ ll h lc.•s!\ pracnct• and . . kdl rcqtu rc~.l
ttl til..' .t brt\\ ut• tbt: nt.•ck1-'I'~Jrf fi:llded 1n ._t
h1\lr m h.111d knL't Jdd~ a 'P lt nf llair rn
dtt un.ltlt'fh.1t.•d lll'cklin~. tUrning thl· typi
\.II ltu k ~ut Jrt.'' :\ bu. . uiL>< - L·l'-UJI outfit
uuu lltlll~hmt; '-pt.·cul .md de\.Htng a
1mp1t• htrt .md Ttol~cr ('ILJttf1 uno .tn
~·n ·mbll' uf 'urpn .. ing 'l) li hnt...,~

OPPOSITE ~ RICHT
Drt'JS(J down business (t1mal
c,m look dtstir~guislred
 AC~C ESSO Rl ZING -rJ-lE DJtE ~ - DO\i\1
13USINE S-CASUAL OUTF IT

It h sP h:\\ gurm~..·mo.; tu hdp com L') Jrt:-.,ed up bcanng tach uccl\.--..;.,un bnt•m
&.J

th:u llllllh II ILl I\' 1111pnn ant. neC.lll!oit.' or l he beltl'd \\ ,1isdme'" \ l'iibdin rdatmg ft Ill ( JihL'f IlldPJ

~.:·t d, 11·. t.J 1 t L'Xllli'l' l< dw I{ 'Ol" ear bdc>\\ i llllllCl''iLl tch
1
:.lL'h ann.~' the •udlr ... l'\ L'l :til hnnnum 111t.:
(~
~.:·d wing 0111.:\ hair Wilt· i 11 tl H' d ll>icl' of.u.!(l'~'lorie' em Jl.~~o pro!TI(lt"" the u1u 'it.'
PRJ). J
I H J 1\J \ ~.
" 1:-.c\ ( ' " .t: o d nh
in~· r,)ll· 111 lc.~~.Jing rlt~ 'ic'' L?r t&J tin: ub,cned·~ conlmuntcal!un' remer. Jlj, t:Kt rulcrawag
L)J1L'·~ h,Jirl·tllur :u tlw \\:ll1-1tlint!and :1~nin.1t rhL· fuut i:-..mOihc?r h1ghh.J rt:,·( nHlWrki~J -.trat.l•'t•rn
~ ~ ~

I'~:ll'k brcm 11 Je.nhcr bL'It.., a11d hnm n 'iliC'dL· 'hoe" r;w•e l11e Ll.\lc leH::I t•f.tn\ ~4'-U~tf "lH
fn lor rhl.' ~ l il.tlll''-~ :md o1hcr clnhing nfictt'ltl:ldo:'\ nu ''~arabft: b~.·rn:r '>Jgnafit:-. ont, t~mJmg
dun .1 pa1r ofbro\\ n -..uedc ~hoes. \ rorn \\ Hh JC'tlllS or : :1 "llJl. 'PL'n "'ilun or ptln J:1d.(•t till"' ft. r
lllt'f ~} !11hLlJ or \\'ind't)J'd&.)llJ hn~ bCC0Jil(' J '\lOll
~
of ~\Cr\d.J\
~ , chic
~ftxinga bl.tt:k .:liJigator bdt \\ith a p:11r o(black ._}jp on~ 1111p0-it' J dtff~·rcm lll"'-'l (
"'} IL" p:1nicularl) i( rite \\l':ll't'r·~ hair lwppcn'\ tO b~ 111 dark acct)rd llo\\t.'\cr uule-. .. 1h\;: ,,uttit ~
~.1omin:liH Ct>lllr-.c!K·rn~.· Ctllll .:1i11~ a S!Tong bind: morir (:lltt1.,ometimt•'- c\{~n tl1~.•u). dn~"' d<\\\11
lc.nht·r accc~~ori~.s ilrc bt•tL&..T kep1 111 the wn rnwr. t:~1nhi1'r bro'' n f~nnil). "h~rher rn r.mneJ -s d
die k·:uher. '1111plt.· pin 'l~:11. t)l"~)baritic liz:t1\.l. \\c.lring l1..lp qLmliq bn-mulc.nht:·r~.:nnt:"hl"· 11}
rhing ., , lll'll inl·lo~<.:' prcJxirrJrt}
·rhc t.'Xct?pt iu11 r\) t hi~ p rc ...l~ri pt i( m '' ot dd bl· rlm:-.e men t n ing w nif~ct a lllllfl.;' dn\\ n
tO\\il denll'~lnor.AI!huttgh black bel t ~ :md -.!we~ \\ould not be rhc d~h:-inc.;r\ dll.llCt'' t l appomt

hi, chino . ~l muld tlw fa~h ion an) I} h.:' be '-\\ :uhcd in lower-ri't'. 11m fnmrt.•d kh.Ilt" bl.Kl..
lc>athl'r rc,onatc!> a llllll'l' nwdcrni,t mamra rhan brm\ n
Sh,x·~' should complcmcnr rhc l utfn a.' a" lmle and drt: ' du\\ n bw;J
IlL'~' lt)a..H\H'nr i~ nn exception A m..m·... :-hoes n:fl~l.l h1s hl.lt.' llllJfC th.m .un
odlL'r ite-m . . ,( dothmg. and llo_lthing rt't1cct~ more pl rl) nn 3 11Lln\

dl"l''~i11g st} lc th:111 unp~lfi,hed or broken dn\\n t~;on,eJr Tit..

'IHl (• o( l''ll1l"'\ ,hoc' bro:1dca-;b hm' ) ou mnn.1gc dca.ul"' t."'lle
cia II~ i tl·m~ requiring muimen.nKt'
The tl.h.1iti1Jilal d1:-rinaion bcnh'Cil dr('"'" .md
Gl~ual shoe~ u:-ed h) bl• rhar the fnnn,>r 1.1 ·t.:d Up. \\ htlt
the I:Htt.'r:-lippt·d nu.lod.l) . .. omeofrh~be...t loukm~(.t.'lt.Il
..hue~ nrl?" ing tip or cap Hk' bn.· -up~
mlmJ\\ n ~n~dt• '' uh J lug
:.ol~ Chunkier ~ol ., "·hangc dtt wnc
r tJf .m nudlr dft.'.'. . up w d1"'""
frLHll
I A dn:ss·,iowiJ ·t·r.rsionou a
..
do\\ n Re~MrdJe.'- ~1f ho\\ dn: '"' dtl
drc.sml up cf,1Sstt.
~--
uppL'r :-brx."'... dt: . .tgn tf It C.Jllllt'H lx-
 pt'lhhL-J hkc matt~' fini ...ht•" nr ·ucdc. 11 ~('m·mJI) t:JIJ, 111tn th\.· molt' c.t!>tl!ll ~hot' ·.llC!!nn (an
e'\t:L~pt t\.m of LllUt"'l' bt·ing rcn!r. . e c.tl f",.km ~:;hoc.•. '' 11 h k•;H her "ule . . )
\' tlw . .h k' gci." more !'Ub. . r.mn.tl '0 'hould the~ . . ck rlw Lhirlcr rht? snck. the m,lft.' Gl~u.tl
If' mrcnmm fht.• thin blaLk or nm'\ dn: . . , \ariCt) h.l\ c 110 pi.Kt' in~ ide- the~e l.u-gcr propnrtillnl'd
~ht.k!'i Ltkl' drc . .s ho . .ter~. cn:-ual hu'e mu . . t be kmg en~..,ugh to rm c-r bare skm "hen llflC. leg :uc
.:rP ~'-; In gezwrJL rh<-~; -.hould be in the mil? t~mc .1s llw
)I, tt\lllscc \ lnlrkolor pat u,'rnt:d socb Glll
en her p.trmen' uh l he m.>tbt."r .md lux· tnne '~~' blcn~..l "it h .1 ~..·olor :!btl\ c l he-'' ;Ii~t.
l--
- '

D l~E -- ~ I N G F0 R T I-I E J0 B I NT E RVI EvV

1b intcn IL'\\ "ln not penn it n great deal Cll" timL' lll crrare the right impre..,.,iull l'cnplc rend
tn "1/C }OU up in the fir..,t thirl) "L'Ctmd"'. "hkh r:m inllucnL"c ho'' £hq dm~.."~ lll imcr:Kl '' nh
ou In the pt'nCL'' uf gJtht.>rmg inrlwlll~HIOJI. the intervil'W<'r o.>n.:-:6l)U,Jy and un~<m:.dou!\1}
m.rk~ JUdgments b~t,cJ on }\.lUr ,·isual and 'l'rbal cuc'i. The 111o~t com pel Ii 11~ 1h )11\ crbal indka
t )J"' art.'\ nur dur hl-·" allcl c \ t:rall gfl)tllllin~.
·- '
housmg uht.· righ1 "·Jut hcs [~,r .l job 111 ten icw h:h a h' :l) ' bct:~l d3ulll i ng. ~ h<l\\ i ng up
~..la·,M:d appmpnatdr h.h ht.>L"nmc (·,·en nm&\' t'f :1 ch~1lk·llg<· 'Iince corpl1f;Ht' drc,, co~..k"i ClHI
rmm.· to bt' in flux .. \.s husnk•-; mrirr...' llCJ\\ allu''" ~lr a hro.tder ran~c nf pcr.:>nnal c.:xprt:s:-1un. it
al~o lll\ ILL'' 111• m.· mJrgin for t'rrnr. The c111didatt' \\ ho o;hm\:- ur, "caring th~.· righ t ciDthc~
.. ... v
11M}

g.nn .1 '"' nnpl'tlt th .1d\ .un.1gc

\n} ~m.tn .lpplicJrJr prepare~ for .1 job imrn j,~,, b} Cm1iliurizing... him~'-·1( \\ irh the C< m
pan 'hu me.' it compem i!:m ,rnd t h~ mark~tplacc. "10ll.t} Ill\ ~st igating .1 pro,pc(ti\ e cmplu) cr ~
\\ orkpiJ.:\: pt.'~{lfld 111C<11llllg u-c.. dre-.f\ c.udc shlmld .tlso be p.-lrl or the prl'l illl111:1ru.:<... B~Hmd
irt· 'mg '' dl .md m.1kmg ._t proJes.~o~ional pn.:'t"'lllati• m ) ou \\ .mL ) nur choKe oF d<'l hl's w 1n. ,. "tth
th pr 'pt'L'U\\.' org.ttnl..ttnm'~ culturf'. \lrlmugh it t~ al\\ !J}' prd~.'r:thlc ro err uu tht:· l)\cn.:lrL:S~ed
JdL rf.t ~.ump.111) LXc..utJ\t:" happen LO be• p.-triiJILO k~llll'> nnd turtlencL'ks. ,Jhm ing !Lp Ill .1 thnx
pH.·~: <>uu Jlh..:l biJ~kbce up 1\\\'ould 111H Lv pnttiJJg}lntrh •q foot fnnL1rd.
\ppmprtat"L" llltt' nIt'\\.•a tire \Cill.h thl.'! mcssngt: t h;tt Itere j._ <lit a,,plic.lltl '' ho dtd Ius
hornt \(irk l hmk .1bout rhc\\AI\ tl1c p~r on 11llt.'nte\\11lg \'Oum:l) \.lr~~s 11·) t., l'hjuthrl) "t.'l'

\ ntr £'1(thr m~h dll' l'"-'" uf a 'trangll~ ~..nn~i~.lcr

I \.,.
\\hal \l)ur clothe!' lllJ\ nnnowKc :~bottt \ott
.f • •

<\u"l t tht m.ttl tn ing rn sh11n1m up d1l' ~nrp{,r.ttC' c.trCL'f pl de \YHhin his CXI!o.ting L' llnp.tn\
d t ~ t~'r tit~.; pl)'lltit~n \OU J.c;pm.· ro llllld nor the OTIC }Oll cutTL ml~ hme
 GLO~
Cr ,. refel"(.'llCcJ dcfinmon-- c1ppear lD ' " \Ll L.\l'
<\Cl ORnll'l" ru o\T'S
sene" of n:u-ro\\ fold-
\ 111 n
r~hra.7 dwt ~~mblc dtosc of .10 accordtnn.
\tlit:'TI.r surrrJ: \ l.lcclco;!>. pull-on tnb fronr shoe
ariguuu:.d b} Princl' Albcrr Qp~u \ 1ctoria's Prince
Comorr ('« p1~~
1()2)
\ll {.,)\ £R \ lh• l£11. such .1, polka dots, rhat rr~!p~at~
conunullu~h .mel n:gu1.trl) OH!r the t'ntire :-urf:lCl' of .1
(II! (.~Y tl~ potgt> -~ )
ALl AC\ \ rn~nbcr of the ~mel ~1"~ctc-... s1mdar to rhc
IJ.un:.~ faund tn the \ndc.m JHghl.mcl..: UJ Clul\' .111~!
Pcru It 1s u dJppl!Xl .nnmJI whu.-.c Utldcrco:u is dClwnr
~n.h \Ct') fint= h.ur '<err olt and lustrous lb wool can
b.: d~dcd from a grcJn.trietrofsoft grars. ru c;cL,
und bm'' n . from pure '' hirr- m a ntst} black
\MF1 JL\:-.; loo~ \. dc~cnb.:-d b) Brook-: Hrothcr.~
me 19l9 11uBn 1(· ts. Jbm-e :Ill. di_tinguishcd by ir<.
n.uur.d!US$ dothi!s should be wont for comfon :md
uncon ciou .. c.·a"e 111c wc.1rer :<>hould look hkc himscl~
.tn,lno other no m.:men\h..tt the OCUJStOn or "h:n he
h..LS on fh,,. cannot be accr1mpli~hed wuh clothe~ th.u
bavt• urnethmg abum rhcm rh.tr i~ foreign TLl rh~
v.carer s h.1bJt lirspnsiuon, or ~uryd.i}' app1~ar:m.:~
lud~.:cd natural clothes, like n:uunl P"opk·, .1rc :tl\\ars
rhc rmm plt·n~•ng- ( rr Dean . \d1'-'"on. pag,, VJ)
\ rJQ.L'lNG Also culled •boormakcr'o; f'lni"h .. A
prott.>s.; of i!ppl)lng t.tin v. .1-..:, or uil tl1 Jeathcr
.tfJu,\ mg It to be .tbsorbcd or "'Cl, .Htd Lhen rubb111g rhc
le.1thcr \\lth ll doth or hruoihmg ir. Begu111ingaround
19~6 Jttr1qumg produced :.1 dchbcrarclr \\'l!athcrcd
p..uinJ.. ermchmg a "hoc s appearance \\hilc pa\·mg th1•
wa tor the nch bro" n ~hoe·s acccpt:tncc for tO\\ n and
bu mc.c; \\car (Sec p.tge l91 )
ArRnN fhe \mcncan term for tht: wtdc ends. front
nd b.at.k. af a long uc r\Jt;o a nu'>cd or flat scam
round ~ situ~: front or "amp (Sa ~hoc pagt:' 1CJh)
\tH. 11 1 h houom c1mc of a shoe from the heel m
rh 1--:zfl ,f thl.: fot"'l
\RG't u \ mulnco)orr.;d titamund pancrn .somcnmcs
"JW m.crpl.ud usuafl) 111 '\\ oul ong.mally kmttcd 111
l.ngl;md on hand fr.:un•~Cj 11 ts UO\\ made ll} m.tchtn~
und applu~d prunanh tu oc~ .md .li\\e:ner-. (~u I GJnk
lll.ltr.l. pJgc ~--)
:\R ~ c ll ' C(llltrn•:ti!JO ar·amt·~ C} c- the IO\'>Cr Ide
of th .:~rmholt> to \\ luch the lec... r ofa 1adet or ~.:oat •~
qo n If tht~ an'<'! h~ dn'!d} n i.ot known :t'i a lugh
.1nnhol • af 1t flrsloosel tt .,. kno,vn ao;; a hH\
;JfmhLlft'
A r T \ "quan: ended ue wnlu~ach {.ltd uf c.:quaJ
\' fth '•"rn pnmaril~ for (nnn.tl d:!\ \H':tr Ocnv111g it
rum· from \q:-ut H~ th th~ Englt h r..tcetrad \\hc•n•
th~ taa: ~~ finr \\iUn. The.• , ot .coust5b of t\\O kmu
RY
The first is a smglc knm. while rlw second '"a Gordian
knot with one end cro~.;ing over the t'thcr and hrld 111
pl.tci:' with a ~tiC'kpllt. J\lso, a dtro\\-over nctk ~carl for
sponswcar. (.."u Caf) Gmm. page 169.)
~\UIH.RGJNL A .shadt.· llf purple rcs~..·mbling rhar of the
t'ggpl.ant.
-.. --
I\ \Ct.: r.u.A rs· The t•\ o plc:.u:- it1 th~.· wpskks of
Lrou.;c:rs 1,\..·:m:cl bei'\\C.:t'll rhe front plc.us .tnd rhc sid(•
l!,•:un:. (S,·!' plc.ucd trow;cr illustrnlion, top nfpagc 61.)
B \C~ Vl.N'r: J\ siuglc upeuing or sfit :u dw ha\:k of n
~armcnt Cl( varying lcngrh~. Jep~..'thling nn 1h..: srylmg
oC dtl..! jackcr. (S''" page 89,)
B,\C~LE.'i:o- \\' \I~TCOAT: J\
mndern kind cl formal \CSt
uuroduccJ in londt'n in 19.23 rnaJc without :1 back
.uh.l hd ..t in plncc h} mc~m;; ofhands. ia:.-tcncd with n
buckle or Inmon, :lcmss the bat:k at the waic;diuc. An
innm•ation of the DRF.SS SOFT cr;1 popuh1riu•d bphe
Pt iucc of \\'.1les allowing tnr more comfon and
coblnt•ss for male formal "\\car. 1 Iawes nnd Curtis, d1c
l'nn~c of\Y.1lc~\ :-.hirtmaker, claim~ w have invented
the gann~1H.
ni\CKS riTCJ J• The tailor\ sti~ch, a kj nd of 10ckstirch.
diiTcl'ing fru111 others br covering the whole l,f the
... ud:u:c Getwccn the swchcs. wirh thl: tht·ca~l exposed
011 du: 11Ke of l he mnteJ'i:!L t\ "dl-ti.1rtncJ bnck~IHch
ghcs a p(~r.fc..:trlitH! of SCam.
HAl IO I.t.AR: A !ugh milirary cnlbr thntlll.l) bl.' \\Orn
n.u or llii'IJCJ up ~IllJ buttoned. The 1.'\)ll:tr is
b:tnd nf
t1
m:ttc•·ial :about three and a half indres wide, on a
rain(o:n or rnpcn;lL The name dedvc-. frlllll
IIAI.?-.1.'\CAAN
HAL ~1101.. J\ do~cd-rhro.lt shoe" itha lact:d front.
derived frum Hal moral Ca~tle in ·.:mlnmi (&r Oxford
~hoc. page 19:;.)
BAI.ANCr MAin.:'\: l;uH.h• klr the workmnn 111 ~cwmg
the \;mou scctium of clothing rogclht•r corrcc-tl) as
well as inJtCiltions ro the CUi"fl't' th.:lt this h:1 been
d<JilC In tr•lllSt:rs, 111!\W.td or clt •.Jk m:trk!>, sm.tll v
marks nrc Clll :a Lhc knr.:c :md hip for the lllllllg up of
the rcspccrhc p.trts lnlhi" way. the JMI \NCr: of the
Wh1.)le g:trfllCIH IS pt'C,\l'f\TCd
1\A Li\NCE- A term 11~cd lC describe rlw lt.thg of :t
g.1rmcnt
BAll rh~ pan of dJC shOt' just: bchmd tlu· toC'i
HALM \CAA • A Joost• fitting co::u bas~~! on the
nrtginolnulit:tJ} \'Crs-ion worn b) dte Pmssi.tn \rnt}
N;uncd rl)l" c... r~Jte nc.lr lmcrnco;~.
Bnltn:tiOilll ;If)
-:cotlau\1. tl feature~ rnghm shoulders and a ~u·ro"
mrn~d do\\ n"\',Jlar: bmh coll.u anJ coat art: c.:tllcd
hat· for shorr
I~ALMOR.U sof1 p-caUco;s Sc\Jtrl'ih hcnd~cnr for men
n~uncd rn the nmeu!t'nth ~t!tUUry u1 honor of Qul!t'U
 cas de nr Hal moral, wht!re 11 \\'11!;
\ t\l\lt i-1':, )!rCat
usuall\ ri ppe'd ap2n ro be mad m cl n :r ffli r;
ln·qut?udy worn Also c.:~llcd'" liun ·o ha.nr.cr."' or nd\':l.nced and p mnanent fin ng
... l:umn}.• :tftt·r a IH·rn i11 one uf J(!,lJcn Hunts• poems
I\"- II ~TE A find\ :mvcn shr.:r.r ll" mred fo1u1 n:
gi\N I>A:-INA· A large. b1 ighcly colored h:mdkcrchi~f cotton or tnhPr fiber:. ud li r 1 mu m d r
''orn tic\1 :tround dtt! nc·d:. Ongmall) mndc uf ilk J~n 1\apn tc a french 1!3H~r fim lmen \\I
rhq•\\'en· imported from lndt:tan rhccarh e•ghtccmh 111 Cnmbrai and fmr pmduced tht 1 th (
ccn tUJ) and worn hr rh,, Arnencan cowbo) Also a • UJruner" m the ... hm F:ilin l?t.di ld )
I Iindi Wt)t d !'or t} ing nnd drcing doth
HA1TLE )A<..KET A \\t;Ust-lcngtb mglc br~ t
BA!-:Dt)ll f R s I'RI rr:· A tH.1guna1 snipe .tppt::a·ring on I) "oolcn J:td.et wiuch wru rcgulau n fi .t d c.: L:
nun: lwlow 1he lll''s knot. in \\orld \\arll lhe t'l"t wedL r 't\'llran
-,-Q
BAil.A1 II I i\ ·A fine~ rcxnrred \\'OJ sted
sportS>\ l'nr m a '"':meq of fi hn
- '' doth ui a broken
DRJ. )JNG
H ll I NG l'ft~ct, \\ hicl1 prnd11..:~s :1 pt•bhldtkc surface 1r BAI"\\INv ~namcgJ\(;fltoahP\\ tit \\h tTilPht
Ttl£ M .\,, b m:uJ,· prim~tdlr in wool for L!\'euing dothes and S1U: square ends resemble th:tl nf bar "JUg bei ~ "£
riJr llt."L'kwt'a r I' n~l\\11 as tJu~ dub ho\\ in Ammc.a IllS n hrm tl\
I~ HllOUR COA'l; i\ da'>Sic Engli)h hunung 0\crro:u shnpo to dte bune.rfl} bo\\ arr. H·r rh n :1ln1m"rll
with a '>tand up hmwn corduro} nllbr an\i thmat l.adt l·o"• u 1 m d With a I:ngcr l.nl)r \\ ll 1a\ l f; und
111 ribbed sdk or ~tut for('\ t-rung ~c.ilr fir 111 il
dt!mil . made frl)m dark greennih.kinnf Cm pttnn
cotltm ~1nd linl-'J in a dur;:~bll' briwu couon pl:ud Its pancrm:d fabnc fur <hr "car (5tt (Ufi 1i ) )
multi pit.• pnl"kct~ and ''catht?rproof construcrtotl make l\1 A\ if R fur fiber of a fum &Ino th 1UJike t TUn'
it dti' squir..:-'s choice for coumrr 01 ell) \\('af_ u..st-d cxrcnStH!l} m the Jn:.tnufJctUrf' of :li 1t lut
BARl I: 'I COR:-:· All owr d'-~icn
'-"
nf mimawre HEnFORf"' CORD A "JSter dot.h r ptqiU' t 1 cl
pmpunions charJctcri;ted b) small, f:usu "corn" \\0\CtlStuTd\ fAhnc 1U 2 nb \\e:J\C !..-d r
\tlh 11 CU.
•
tri:lllglc~ used for rwccd and othct woolen fahrics corded efTccr It ''"25 first u cd lo maJ.c br~ l C. r the
"I hi!'! t\\ ill ~ wcarc pattern 1~ achi~H~d
b} comr.tstmg Booford rn.Iuia henct: the namt: It ongmJl
the WARP and WET r thrl•aJ.;, (Sec l lumphrt.'} f\ogurt, r.c.,emblc~ CO\ ERT CLOTH Bedford cord com JQ
pagL' 180) \\O(')I couon. or blends (..\u the entcd SJ rt m n
page liS)
B \RRH CUFF: A single cuff anached 10 n ~hinslcc\c
:md C1stc11cd with n button and .1 buttonholt• Br 1 1 t E .B.'\C~ The bad: nf.a w:,usrroat' 1th rounded
co1 ncrs" hos~ length extend" be}ond rh. edt'- J tU t
BARR"\ MORT· GOt.I..AR; A low-~ct, attacht.>d drcsb shirt
its rorcpafl'-
coll:tr with kmg poilus. first worn br John B~trr) more
in the btl' 1910" and rhen adopLcd br llollywood ~a.1r~ Brwr. \ natural or und) e,JcoloJ \!..:" p. h: t nt'
:wd ot hero; in California. it later becmnl' knlm n as- 1he.: of 1a.n.
C.tlilornin colbr.
BrLL B01TOMS Fbres ot pants \\Jth fhred fi tin
B,\R ~S IIAI'f:D I J£:.1\four-in-h;1nd ric in ''hich th\: suggesting 1ht• :.h:tpe of a bi!U Ongmall the I r
l'Uds ar\.' of equal\\ idtb and parallel ''hire trou cr.s worn bj ml\"\ SG~man al l:n \\
rulor\ panr-..
BAll TACK: A stirch made in hcav'' \':tru w rcinforcl'
• •
rht: slip stitching that jomo; the bod} of thl· tit.~ at rhL· BF~J OW!- PtE/.T dc'-1' fold at the 1dc f ~ t r
front bl3dc l'nd. coat to pro' tdc cnr.t fullness for comf n (~ t fmn
Fonda. page 1 h)
H,\SKf. r \\T~\'1:: A ''ariarioJT of a pl.lin~,VL':I\'l' f:1bric in
"bich two or lllOrc yarns arc worked lTI 1 he W\RI' and Hn LOW PO Ll lro tcmtcd .1: n p 1\
WEFT to proJucc a pWrt!d c::m~ baskt·r t!li<.·ct.lwncc p!nch st)ic podc:~ with thr~ oadt•ptr c rh I :~:ermn
1he n;unc It is used mainly in shining" and spon dtl• pocke-r to c.\:pand 11tc e "tdt· JUCL" gt'' the-
j.tckt.'lings. (h:tord doth is:t type ofb.1~kc1 \H':t\c. :tppe:tr:aiLt:c of old [nghsJt firt: bgfnHl£ bdl lV. «
~lark Gable pag~ I.o-)
B,\SQ!.If 1\li lUl : A d1,.N.' ilrrhtg, round~crown~d ~·np
with no "isor c1r brun. ns worn in rht.• I~Il ..qtt<-" coun1 f')~ Bl.MRE.R~· A trnde rtame for Cupr:tm mum nn Jl
(Sec the Prinl"t.' of \Val~s p:tgc 8 far left phNogrnph) U. urrlh found m top qu~hf) J:IC~ t'nher a t. lor
.,J~C\'C hmng'
rr: li1 't.'W loosely tog~.:thc'l' or f~·btcJt r\'mpornr:iJr
l\A:o,
m pl.tn:: with long, cusil) n.-mmcd ~utchc~ In men' l~tNt..HMADE .\ mlsleildmg lC'..rtn 11~ Uft£ l t
tailoring. it j., u:-u::J!I) us~d tv rcmp('ltanlr hnld dtl" percent handt:rnftcd shoe m~de on J ben h h, ~
p:trb of:t g:trmclll so that it em be tried on crafr-snuuL T<Hil' it means a .., pt..'T • m awdnllC' nude
hoe hand l.lstc-d 'With ltJnd wehr-d ul
n,\S r1 P F 1'111 ~G. The tiN fininl! in thC" crcauon of a
tnh.' custom t:tilored j.1i"ker \~hell nr·r.:m tf'} on· i BENGAL 'TRJrE5· Ahem:nmg !impe!- ot e-1 \\d
u"ualh "hue nnd R~"'lor Th \ \\Crc <'ngm ppeJ
prt'p:tr('d dirL'Ctl} from a pap~r patt('rn crl!~tcd b) dll·
ro world mnrkt"r.s from llt>n~ India d rc 11
tmlor This ~kdr.ton coat hz U" c:mv;t~~ wch•d 111
:-c.uns ba.~1cd. ftlHH edge:- mrn~d in. collar ba~t<'d on. found 111 "him~ (Str 1-aH· and wnmer 1 t1
llld, ~LlfTlCiillh''-, Ollt' :.lct.•\·t~ t:1Ck~d 011, nftcr \duch II I
-,hitt r-abnc-p g:netold)

~-----~-
 BE"RrT \ bruulcss.. Ufl\1-Su~d tnm dTt•ct cap of fch \lr BLOt" l'lu~·TtNG \n Llld mcrhod of hand pnnttng
t~hn~ fab1r~ rr,llll i:.trn.•d woo~l (lf mct.ll blt!Cb
BERMl D'l IIORH \\:llkmgshort." ofdtc t}lc-· \\Ortl BLUCJH:R \bee ur ,lwt.: \\itlt a Jo\\ op~n thro.tt
an Iknnud.l hrcndmg to Jbout the brc.tk in the knt•c. front O\'t:r rhe m.;a~p patt'trnt!d alter the rmlH.tt} buutc;
"'
th 1r 1de ,~.tms r.tngc &om t\\CHt) tu r\Wnt} U\'O \\0111 b,• Gene-ral <..lchh:1rd I ebC'rcchr \Oil Blucher \\ho
rnchc (11t'4 pagl·n 2 :md 1 -l} l~!d tit~ J'ru,"i.ln .trtn} again."t 1.tpolcon. \lso known .1.,
Bf A t.ulonng term for d.n in.;cr pt,xk~t made "nJt
OM .:1 nr fUn (.'lu pages 1--;. 19~)

a rurnm "~ltcd edge abo\'~ the plxkct opc.ning It a-. HJ lJII 1 PGI~ ,\n c~igc.: nwdc up in w;u:ll W:J} bm
cnlk·d a dl1ublc bos.lm pod:~ ifbflth top o.nd botmm flrw.hl•d \\it hout outside sllt,-luug
c.dg'-"~ W\ \Wit" .tnd ~o·allt.•d .1 ilapp~.-d b~om "hen a
tl.tp I .ufdc:J 1\('1 \1 NlGK ;\honz-t>rl!:U c)pcning :11 rhl• tl•p oi a
knit wd pullm cr.
Br rc Kl t:waOIII made. a rcrm .tpplir I m 1 ngl.tnd to
.urlcfc, m.1d~ to mdt·.-du~tl ('rder HO,.\TLR.Su l-U'fNIT

Ui\5 Cl)r-,; TRl no. Scr. nrstu rxT l or-:-. rRL'-.;:"1 !I.JN. f\011.1 D l>ltiiH" An irwlcg:uu rec111 l{,r ,1 stilT bc•somcd
..:\'l'll rug :-.hirt. 1.. )ng111.1ll). rht· fr\)ms lit~·rallr hall robe
81 kJ ,..., \bbrc\l:trcd- nle ~\Hm :~hons, ad:~ptNI ir,,rn
borlcd ro rcrum·e the.: srarch fllr ".t:.hing
\HUncn o: unrlcnH~:tr

Bt LLl l OC:.:J.:
BIRD UL \ll U\~T\\il"\t.>tt-Unmgorncck\\l!llrf':tbt•Jc
'--'
mJdl: from u sm;.1U gcomctnc p.urcrn '' ilh n dot
ru~~tmg .t bird' c\c. Tfti ... fang ;)olid ~1111 is a
(.1\- nrc ot bespoke utlors and t hc1r murL' . t} li~h
parr m. ( rt \\ nncr· m tltco -.:·mtt J-abno g;u~rold.
fi,IJt"d nn. pag~ 9J )
Rb .(l 1 .\ p.1lc.- tnnt: uf tan suggc,ri\"' of 1hc: color oi n
HOJD l.oo"· lmroJucL·J br 8cjuiu magazine m the
~pnng ot ICq~, the [\~)fd 1 ook \\Xi :t rt~ICI son W thl" J.td:
of nc'' tashions during and just arrcr· \V\VII. £3.tsmg H
ou th~, appeal of the: large \V!NDS1JR knot :md
'omm:~ nd spread-cnllar dre-::s shirt, l:.~rurl~ fa~lmm
dcpartllll'lll propo~cd ~ lw~H:l ro roc luok oi owrsizcd
.tpp:u-d fc.uuringJullt~r suit l·h-·kcts "it h prt•millL'lH
. lh,uldt:r.!', .lggrl'''J' c- paw.: rued llt.'C kwc.tr, masSJ\'C
k'H:In_ .md thtd: ru ucm.R (,,mwear \ldJOm!h th~.•
I '

slaslnl .. bra" n bi..cuu (Sri' pag~ 2 53)
fll \\IN<.. I M ~f he back of.1 pckct \\ 1th a G ' ' I 1
or 1!" \ 1 ruru I' lEA 1 s:xt-cnliu1sr.._ from ~hlluldcr m
...,:;u tlmt• ou .1ch stdc wwnlly with a srtrdu!d on hnlt
belt 111 b;tck (Srr p:~gc 1o6)
1St M K \\ ncu fh..: Black \\atd1 or tli.J.ck G11:ml. \\,l'i
mg.mafl) a grcmp uf n.·ru:~nd~.: c..1rs rccrunc~f b) The
km f f n~bnd to chcd: mmblc,omc I IighLmcl dans
Titt' \\ m~ J parnnti.tdmtd of TART AN or I'U.I 0 It
1 the umf. nn tnnJn of the Unnsh t\rm} ·:. 4.2nd
Ht hbnd R.t:gamt·nr the C:unphdlt.1nan mums dtl'
dl " .md .., futc 0\L::rch\:ck Popul.u m men\ \\~ar
bc-~J c It unnbmc mo cia~ JL blazer color , na\) >1nd
~ 1 tlu: reb\' ~nrng 11~ .mother hlazcr po tblllt)
nunt Or Bnu h bwdc tlus I~ CXtnl ti.allnc.:~ nt the
J41ckt-t shouldt: r bi.IJ, ~ C'nmtruc(ion ongmat rng
uth U~t lfn r.ulors m rhc \\e,.., r nd or
London Ill I Itt'
bt r• 20~ lr 1 .1l • d1e BmLh tcrrn filr tht· hroadl r
l"r J f 1 f Jl R I 11 !\N h knot \\ lru·h u'iunll) hangs tu
du.• fl-onr ol the under t. nd ofJJ ncckuc '\!No. rht> c11dc;
of .t ncm ru
Bt -'1/fR rhl: t'l! t bl.u:
u.erc bnght J;Qtrlct 1lcX\.'t \HlrJJ
r-.;
Bnld lc•ok ll ·~t Jtll)lllt:mrun bph~.-· ncx[ dcc:td.: iT
unhill.hed t\mcricauml~n\ L:l!HI.' Crom its r>rooks
[kothc:n; ~.n ilc R,·w~mchllr. inittariug .\m,·nc-a'~
Jll\I'UWUI'J spit';1l illh1 Iht! 1<))0!' (1()~ rl N f:~ It\ I 1.00 "·
! hl• 1\)60- 1'1 \COCl\' Rl:VOil n I 0 N, and the dt.spl.lSahJ!'
ltt!lhioth (>f the 19-os
B1) In T 11 \ cnwboy- inc;pir~'-1 ~tnng uc m:lt.lt· \: f
leather or hea'} brJided wrJ with metnlups fu tcnt!,l
wuh a 'llidc dcvkc
HOI TAn Clltin~ length of \\On) doth from tfrc loom.
rullcd or ioldc:d Holt:. \-:Jr}' in lc:ngth 311}'\\ hcre from
6fq ro t:\'Cllt}tnl.!ter:s .md ,,jdth from thrrt} moto
"ir"t} tncl~t:s
13oM HER J \C Kl r A \\ :11-.r length ja~kcr '' nrn b) C ~
\1r I oru: ptlots adapted f,..,, Cl\ 11J.m pllrpl1. ~ m
lc.11 ht: r '' uJ1 lwl:pskin lining or m .1 i:tbnr \\ uh :3 prlc
f:tlmc lming.
fhl 1
1 FoPtwc,1r thor cXtL'Illh am ltl'lglu ab<.nc rhl.·
.urklt•.
B•'IU,\lJNu I he ••:uJJl'oithc:grear ltal1.11t h.tlm.tkcl\
CUiltrthutmn roth!! TlULBl h.u l:rnHI} \\Hh 11~

h) tuclcnt mcrnlx-r uf dw l.ad) r-..litrgaret Boar Llub .11 ..:h 11':1 tC'rtsttc Lrt:tngle patrh h• the ~..rem n ("t't Mtltu11
lluldl'n p:tgc 1 ~o )
ambndg lm\ r.:rnt A 1ukmg n:te1-enu w a"bl.1/. •o(
l1r " applied to bnghd srnpt•d boauog J•b.lu:t B'-> rr Ll t•ltH N A dc...1' ~ba.:Ir: nf grcL·n rc'\t'mblrug
hkh bt'G.I~ popul.u- 111 d1 1 8 llu t} 1~ rohcr.:d rhat n1 t fT .1i11 gl.t~ botrlt_~,
t1 ut th l')J• ~ \\1th the modem bLazer r:o~O , rmg
1 n- Imtl Jnt} tl cl c 1\mt h a\'\ RH HR. bm ~ r onll' Bl'\Tfl r II AI'£ D fllhapt·" Hit 1 rnatkt·d
\ tit•
11 t rum bltz..c"r·~~tud (Set page J '') n:~rro,\ing under the knut th.at \Hdcn~ do\\n n1
n·~cmblt: the h 'I'L' nf.a horde; pcruut .a \\tdl'r hoJ.inl
nurrn <.; Tlb: t rm d cnpm· of a (~tlmc 111 '"'"'"h nt r , 1111~ c .1 norm.1l ~•zed knnt
tl d 1 n ; a5 .tnd cum •Ut when wet
lk)TfOM Tht. S<Ctllm of o lm~ :o;ok ~l:t{'ndmg from
B l 1 nr If :\ nc~.tkd smdt
H tOt tu till' brcJ t ,j 1hc ht d uot lilt lud111~ tht· h, 1)
 llOU• I I 1 n1111 dH· I rt.'ncll \... ord b11Utir mcan 11 tu a
·b•h:kl"" o•·"ringlct .. A um·dL) )am.utd fnu.sh:trccr
prdduc'"J on dt•th~; \\hereby \"t'l") f;llJall. dra\' n out
curl) lnnps 1r1 the! indi\'tdunl thread appear on rhf'
surfncl' of rill· •n:ucn:tl
BnL N ll t 111,1 I dge!> fllllshcd \\ ith hr.~id or odu J
kmd~ of COH'rmg
Bot 1 ONN II RI. 1. ::~m:mon \:OrufkH\t: ,, ur 1du:r
flm\el \Hilll on the bpd of a jnd.t•! orolllcrco:u (.Srt
p;tg·~ 201 .2'31 236)
\
.Hit>
UOW Til .')n• 1\,tgC!I I bO 64
Dnr ....-51 ,.u 1\0WI I R .\u nr Kill
rru M 1 .....
1\o.x U OTII. A la<'tl\'), C•'I'IJ'.'It: doth. ()rigm:tll)' m bulT or
1:111 cok,rcJ M 11Tr.JN lt'ied li1 tlw •)VCtt.!O:ttmg tmdc
1\b('lus<.•d fflr llll'll\ SIJ~r·ENr•tRS
Uax I' 1 r A r '' plcar with fo!Jcd \!dgt~s facing i 11
nppo:-it(• ..itrecrion~. u<ovd •111 pockc•t:; o( shjns :tnd
jnckt:ts or thl'· b.Kk yoke of :t shirt it•r fullnc ·s :rnd en,.~·
of lllO\ O:lllCill
Bo:..: TO[: Tht.> !'Uppnrt u:.ed in,.idc the shoe to hold the
!ihtt~)C of the 10(' \I'UaJiy rigid. but mar be ::oft Or
llcxtblc
BRACJ BU rT,)N /\ :.pt:cbllr shapt'd burron domed nn
the sidl! :md o~u.:u:lw~I ro 1T1c wat:.tb:md. pcrrnin i ng
suffkicm sp;Kl' for dw "ll'>p~ndcr 's lo0p h1 m ove fr<'d)'
Cmm :ml~ w .~idt: (S« pJge l:LJ )
1\JL\Gt: p,rjfi,J, tum fur SU~PLNI"\Eil'O. (Sr.· pagl? .22.!.)
Bltr\DFORD ~PINN ING: Oneo(thrl'l.' prllh.:tplc
or ~pinn ing WORSTED l A.RNS Origll1 :1! illg in
Tlll'Lhuds
Ymkshirc. liogbnd. rhis proccs~ or spinning wool ill!\)
wor.~t1:d rnrn t.tk~:- rhc w~,ol and Llwroughlr o1l ir
before b CI'OlbcJ. '' hjdt produ('cc; a ,mullth,lustrous
It
prnuscd for\\or:acJ !'littings. Thi!>Jiiicr' from du~
l"r\~lCIJ ~} S{('ltl, \\ hich lS. Jl") spun.
HIM 1I} \Vovcn, knitted. or pl:1itcd nmtcri:tJu,c:J for
trimming or binding Oiren u:.c:-J for roruulwc:ar
lfOU!iCfS SU pagt.'s 2.:,!8. 2.)1.
BHr..i\l~ "llw amt.lUnt offt..1lding. rrc:.bing.or M,Juva- oi
the troust•r horrom "ben it mcer~ :wd .Sit!> 011 the top
of rh~ :.hut' (s~( page' 4-8. (, r.)
HHt.t:t'll· An old~l~u.hmncd [ngli:.h \h>rd for
bm r..Jck~ Ilene~... brccdw!'~ i-. whar Ct'\'C rs dwm Tlw
word Cir.st :H\I"'~,·:m•d in rngl:md tn rh(•$iXll'l'1llb
C~TilUf} an~.! nrigi tl:lll~ rete ucd to krwc l.:ngt h twusc 1"
"nh t~tiiC\ buc.kle1\ for dcc<'mtion l .1tt·r. brccclws were!
• :h·ms~ the back n('ck rh:n ghc!' !1 fim.,h to thnl iJ n ol
lt:ngthcncd :llld cnnn.· h~ mean p:~nts.
HRI 1 Ks Colloqui:tlt!'m fur br...·eclu•,,nl!>~' :1 1cnn for
t rou:;e r.s i rn plying trim linc.:-
bridiC' j.. aau:tU} comn..'lllwg gt•:t.r hkc the
BIU 1)1 1.:.: \
bndle in a hor.;c·~ mourh it:. mcnnin~
... here i ru-.1
jnd:et's princjpk "t•ur.:-c a f suppon \t ...o. a n•rm
appJietl fur p.1dding :t piCCl' of lll!liL!rJ<t.J from the UCC'l:
Ofll\l the C:ln\n' a.lllll).!. tlw in:.idt.• crc.t.sc or roll••i the
~
lnpd tt> hold or .:'0111 rol rhc ;:he't.
UJ tii'IH\\ARM onvnu tiU~ lEDou~ ~ t t
mtfu.Jr) origin 1t1 kne <Jr aboh ., lcugtl \ t:h
sh;~pecl bod\ lmt! .tnd a O.trt. t \\.lnJ du: ll( rtnm
"1th epaulet-.; It JS u u.Uh af .tEL r ~
BRO~IlC...LOTH Ch.Hd) '\"~>mmi hn ... "u 1 th
• r
runmng \h1rnJ.Se 11 cmu•.anc; ''"''~ 05 nun \\ \RP
thrt•ad ...., tl1c fl UINb pr'-l(iu 111g c: llcm lu t r 1
cotton l1f pol} lllcnds It u u tJ m luru un t; h 11
and ~pnnM\i"ar (Sa rht.• ll.I.It J abn t i M1
URc l ~Df frum the lmltan brou-.xrr mt>;uung r
pnck cu Mm fignn.: " A ltc3\'\ br~~ :111d ftgur ~d tll
~ unll) 111 all-o\crrlr 1gm uf r.uscJ figure or A .c
mad~ l)) \\Ant throacl-" bt*m~ r.u~l m JA Ql !\Jm
\\l'iJ\ 1ng to fonn 1he paurrn
Blll1GUr. IIJstoncn.IJ) a rough uurdum h c If
UJilni\ned lc.athcn\1th ;.~ lhong ~ lo urr.: \\ '"' b ' :ot
a11d lmh pt.;:as.mh (fmm Lache br~ J h[\() lbd
brogue i~< n hea\'y oxft.llll.i lihOt' "' nh a IJrgc pPd r.ucd
dcstgn on toe and border '5L".atm mu 11~ \\IN 1 il (\i
pag~ 194)
BROI L"' 1\ 1\rimh rerm for wnbrcll
BROWN TO!':£ A combinntJOll of d cp lud f
enrrh-made rod. et £1If \\ rth l\ertnnt.: ,f ~reel gr.
Coined hr Dqmu\ ...Apparel \ru" m 1941 t<. "'" l
rail r.:.olor blcndtng \\ ttll all cmnpll· ll "" nJ pr m trd
:ts a n<'\\ w~t) to sell brown.
H1WM.M11. l 11 ORC.l UR1A ,. Bcnu Jirumm,l
(178 J8:.40) An ear:l} uinct.ecnth ttntUf) I ng{t I
d.llld\• \dtosc du::mtcs on male dn: ~ !\UIJ cndutt• •' th~
l'":-L'IHI:llmdc of lhe \\ell -rlr.e<: ed gcntlun:m Pn rt 1
" J he lh:1.111." 3 gt·mJcm:lll''i nppCi3CU1Cl' dt p~ll !ed OU
dtc riclmes of the m.1to:nal ,,nfu b:tl± r"cn rl 111gl
the dnthcs were often b.tdl) mnde til fittm • and not
:th\.1}, de:tn. \Y1th Brummd male snh bt.·.. am
m:uttr of tmpt."ccnblc Gt and cut exqu• n dt t tl nd
tllltll!lrubre cl~nlme ~ [\en fu, prefi n: n e t 'r thl
color blue would erulure tn the cxt<'nt tft:u tlu: n.n
t.11it bccamC' the urufomt oi mtlhon.. through mu h l t
Lhe 1" entieth a::ntun•
BRl "lJIN(; \lso call~d nnpptng .1 hnisluug procC'
\\ ht·rc cin:ular blu~h~ pull up the tib~ r cnJ to I rnt
a iun} urf:Ke dk!r:eb) r.usinp. aN !\I' un l nnt J
\\ owH fabrics.
1\Lit:J\.,1..:1 ~
'l'ft napped lt:.athcr ofut•cr or ell tur fine
gloh: J; or m ~1'0~1:. qu!llm . hoes ( « J tgr .!Ol J
BL IHI'f~l \ '\\ dl
'-nl.)\\ n lttU hrttgue I'H tm'l mI Ul
shot' with a lugh roc cap
BU(ili'l 11H:: :smp of au unlin~.:d Jl.ld t•r t.~h:mltng
thC' ·"l:tl. (In cu<:tom tmlonng whr-n the luungaun :o.
four rn fiH· mchc bdO\\ the .mnhull" n a rdrrreJ t
., .. ·half hnoo )
Humn RR1 Thoma, Burbern ~ c:' unm cirapcr m
lngLwd hie upon a me'rhod of chl"nn-. II treanr g
('Ot ron fnbnc ,o that It rrpcUcd Wd!CJ"\\ htlc n-m:un I •
porou In t'h 4 ht• ad\crUst.-d ..PRt"lLll g 10 t th
I ka\ IC"l .R.lin.s and ~1m Hurbcrn umlonn
dcparnncnt dc ... tgt\N u r;un rc"tsl nt c,,n,wn ~.... ~~ me
 tre1lcll.:o.Jt th:tt "~ tssued to mun: th<111 ~ hnlf nul lion higbland. l "Cd eirhcr brir:sclfor rn ct~mhulauou wJth
rm~J 111 the ~"'tJI"SC ol \\ \\ I Sa n~.E:-<( H GOA I wool ior ro:u ... stur5, .1ncl , ..,ea,crs
1\L Rut~ Dl det:p n.:h red ~hade: SUg&C'itiVe l'f CAN'\ A Ouginnll} n cltnh mack· from hemp ):lrtl~
burguud} \HJJ.C ( « 'ch ct: .,Jtpper, page I ''2 ) und u:rmcd from the ward mnrwlm A genet.!
cln. lf)c:mon of srmug. lit'~l\'}: c:o,uscl} , ..'0\ en t:'lbrics
ftt "IlL ll"L '\nmhcr renn for n:p.unn~ or alrcrrng
uu ,ackeb ~bds orourcn\-e;:u:
or
u.su.tll) rnat.!c ~OltOil The lcrms Cltll\.1~ and duck arc
u"ed imt:rdt:tnt!cnhl}: but ...Cinv:.v,'' g~o•nernll} rd.nes to
UL H£L \f :\N \ ~L•urne\ nun tailor v. ho undcrtttkt·s hc.a' ier con-.tructions.
alu:rnu~uts nnd rr.p::urs:
CAl' A \'isorrd I:,Lmc h(:adpi('..:c \\ nh :1 rounded crO\\ n.
Bl .. u r \( RI.f \ belted ~mglc bn::ml."d slun t:u:ket cut in ~·tdwr on C'tghr ·ptcc.." wp or .1 Pill" P"-'CC-lOp
\\1th four PH\. H l'1.lt.$.ET' and tlJp m tan co non St'. lc. In 1~71. tht· llritish P.1rlinmcnt p.tSSl'll :1 law
~81
Of.Ul.L'" r l,.o.>\IJ.AR[tl !'.'T;. (Sct page I (.1~) tl'<.ftllrlllg all htgli~h male~ lWt!r 1he ag • ohix (b\11
t.::'\dttdin~ ttt>bili~)) lt' w.:or :1 \\'()tolcn ""Pun S11 nd.tys
L\t rrrFFL.1 A aow TIE cut wnh thbrlc shape.-,] or
Til(' law, iutc.nd~d h• stimulate rltr wool trade, wns
fl.ued cmb ned "nh a sm:lll knot aud a ·wide bow '' ll h rcpc.llcd in 1)4Jj', but dw ~.lp with bonnwtal rrour
hro.td cuds l.il\\!11 It 11:unc m 1C)04 due ru the suCCL'"~
, t the opera \'tad.mw Ruttrtjly Unnl that tame. 1 ics
or
hritll \":lf}'tng length~ has ~\'t.'r sin.:c bc·cn rhc
IH"'.t<h!•
... ·n1 of lc i:.ure. (St't' page f.(l)
f;u;hmn..:d m ~ bo\\ \\en' ~1mpl) called l;RA,ATS (.v~
pagt: 2.4 s 24- ) C,\Pl An Ollh'r gMmcnr \\id1\.lUl .,.fcc\Cs but •wtth bllts
.H .-ide.~ for dlC a.rms
Ht T rrRNt T Dc..-s-~ripm e of a bm\\11 color thar \\il"
n:: ue<J 'ult rhe J c: of rhe bark of a bLtncmut or C.I\RIHGA.N· A k111d of knitting -md1 Al o a knitted
\\Jinut tn~ \pphcd to a coarse \\'\Jolcn h~nnc.~pm1 '' c:u.cr" ir hl•llf a collnr or lapels. madl! \\ nh or
l.1l nl.. once cxu·n"'' eh \\Ofll m the Southern states of '' tthout ~Ice''"'· Named for the ~c,·cnth carl of
th l Cardig:m
'-'
who c..lislikcJ disturbing his <"Oificur bur" ho
did knd the Charge of 1he Light Brigade 111 the
UL rro:--.~ (}0\\ s COU \R '-17 p.Jgl' 134 fred Asr.;urc,
Crm11.:an \Var (~a page Hi~)
f"J&<' 1-J 0
CARDING. J\ prore~ .. for pn~parin,g W•llll pm l~1r
Rl.: T'f :SHOll GLARD fhc loo. "'-= o;u:.tnd of 1:\\ IS tee!
spinuing Till' fibers arc .turom:lticJIIy pl:tcL'd 10 propt.'r'
thn·ad s~Jl ou thcunde~rd~ ofdll' pck~,·~ k:fl lapel
:alisnm,•nt :urd tlw impurities rc•no\'t:~ The ~ardcd
bummbol· m t<cure the nou roNN 1E:R [~stem ) ams aro.: Lh~n pm into~~ m:m.lgl!ablc form known jJs
Bl irCi~ NH::K The lfsrc::ad allcn':!nce given t(s :t "s fi\ Cr~ rh;H :1pproximah!.' dtr .stzc of:-r mau'-: thumb.
burton \~ ht•rt ~ \\ ll to .1 g:tnncnt rude; 1Jl the US(' of l he
I..~AR.NAli'r ~T illl.T1 he binhpl:tn· ot' the l'c.u:ock
button ;u vtdl .1 m promonng ft.·wer \\ rmkles '~hen
Rcvuluti1111 111 ~\\ ingmg I ominn \ two blq.:k street
th ~rmr111 1 hutt011ed
parallel ro Rt'gl!nt ~m·cJ. London.\\ h~r.:- mnn} shop.s
Bl r n !..;1 h hetght dastance.•md ~p:li:ing
iAN{ l or in the ll)h~)s imroduc«Jd ·mt--.d~ clotlut1g a.nd later:: ~uch
J Cb.lt fmnt button rebrtu~ to tts from l'dgc and st}lcs as Onrcd lacb, brighd} pancrncd s.hms :mJ
".tL t (su p.tgc J 84) adapt:ttaons of \mcnr.tn "'estern dorl11.·

llt rr lt,; Til ROt uJI DCSJgn;mng the dasur~ or on CA II J'OCI(fl' t'C'Th:I\ETJ'Ollo:II
utt.r.:-1 .JT •r J.Kkct an'' ludt burtons :~rc f~tt:IIL"tl tn
CA511 MJ IH. lmt< wool frmn the underco:u of the 1\ ng
buttonhole' ~·1u thruugh the f~ir .tnd nm CO\cre!d
haired K.tshnur go.n, '' hkh is \\Oven or l:nincd smo
nh o1 tl from
"-Dlt f.1bnts rh~u .trc luxurious to thL: hHh:h l o"hmc rc
'1\l r n \n mt"rlappmg bmung stuc.h m:~dc
Tl T llf"it ''on ncd:um \\hen d 11.' pt'Oplt: uf K.1shmrr "cwt.· H
b n .1 hm nr b) h.1nd th•lt re.;cmblcs a cabll' lL~cd m uno cxqtuor;tte ~h.l\d.s. 111 tl1c nin~.:rccndr cenrun the
\ ttcr :tnd Ui:k (<itt p3gc lD5) rnglr~h. ~c-ottlsh, and J rendt S(• t\l\'Ctcd tlu~!'tc h.l\\L
thnr the' lmll.uNI rh~m. c-.pcci:J.llr m I'.H~Il·). swtl trtd
<. ;\lJ· l..ctthl"r m:~dc from rhl! ktll of.t )Oung
f...l"l
-, h~o· hulk l'f dt~.· wnol1s ;1 p<tll! "arm gtm nnd tnJ.:t•!~ d, c
~alf .a ft.'"\\ ruy
nr \\CC'ks, hL \\ cn"!hmg 'il>.-rean ~)()twds ln·utr 1h.m :1Tl}' mlwr ot' du: mrr.:t m•ol<~i \\bJt~ Til)
r k prcc.cs ·d fur U.'l Ill r 101~ear .tnd uthcr ~a!>llmcrt Is lin~·r .md. mmc cxp~nsh~ rh:u1 \H:!ulcn
I rlll rgffi d
cno;hmc: rc ns tltt.' cmnbcd ).tnt! c.anntH h~ :o.pun \\ uh
"UJUR I\ It lU.R Su u.a.ltR't'"\tnRf r.uli...AR Ul•fccmc or unp<•rfeC'l fibct \\ orsrcd c;ashmL•rc) .Int
)1dd;; c .trc.tndy lrghr tn.nr:nJ.l tll.u ts mor~ rc.. mmn 10
( c\M RIO ,f RU <; t "X:fOIUl LR•\1"
I'U 11sr~ (tho.! Lr~o..-.raot• ofltttlt nuhs ofiu7.z on .;url.t•c
\ U l \ lrght \\: llou1 h t:rn based un dh coh r of the (lf dw f.thrtc) used t•xJust\Ch lor .mung.-. nml sporr

hump~.:d c;uncl Ja~.lc.•tmg! \Voolcn ca-;luncn: 1., ~ltghtl} lnfmr lc

Q•cun nnd b.tll c:asil'r th.ur woNted C"".t<.IUlwrc \\oolt'n
\ 1 L H :\In hl1tt I r• m ..1 &>nmd
r-.m!?Jng m enlor c t hmer~.: r u t.'d pnm:ml} for 1:td.eun~ .uhi \\C:•ltt .-..
fi m natur.d t:m t bm·• n \ \c;n \\Mm and
l1 \ rght ' tn I It Jch JU dun c..t hmcrc: fhc Co\ t " \ W'•nl.1tccl l<'w \arnpcd ~hcte
hr cart 1 I ur m fmm tlt under o lt pf a CAV'\l I fit tift felt h:tt \\ idt a ~~1ll'f'1} Jllll\ ht.d
rr n (rn hum~ J) amd taunJ m th ( hm "'(; CTO\\ n tml.1 flnpp) bnm tumt>d up .;til lmunJ
 ~lndcll·d aftt:'r :'1 slnnmtbl}' plumed afliur fn.lrn the CH £\ I )1 uun(utfi bnc (Jln» un e 1 ,
\ f'H"i'lh
Sl~h'\.101 It ~cJltllf} \\ l l f l l b} tlu:: \\CUJ"iJ em .all") \\i1tLft '(t-ol) Jll,Idc from dw , ..~m ( t h
{i und unrncdhltc fa\Or\\lth ccn:tm rake' 111 the Bnuo;h dtr.; hc-t>p fotmd in th ( ht mt lull f
" I
eland It
J'Ovnh) lmu.1Il} "POrtl'd wtth plume~ on tin· left s1dc tr •dnumaJ \\c;t). u; aft h bon p ncn
and ttlnt~cl up hrim on the 11glu Ill order tu haH• more h.J m~.; o;s tv. til amc-rscct.ed b bn~ht t• r 1 dt. 1r. n n
in•cdom \\ 1dding n S\ltt.lrd. mnH• cour.1gc.:ou~ bbdc ) Jm A grnm1 tmrgh nap~d t \ d the d 1 t
upped the tlurd ~1dt.> and tht~ soft cuckt:d hIt ~~~. bct'n charancr t qutntQ cnnall) [ nf:h h (:S« p~( ~ J
knLl\\ n .1~ ~t CJ\ .tlt~r C\ cr s.~nce (.Stt' man 111 polka dpt
tll', p:tgL' 1)8 ) Cu 1 \ liON wr "' 1
n up ud dll\, n v.tp ftt>c1
forml'd b; rt"n·nmg t h~: dtrr.;ctl 11 of tb '" 1ll t r gular
CtWAI rt) TWlll A ~mrd) \H~l\t' fab11C made \\llh a mtt n.1ls Res~mblmg:t hrr.nugl lllt' 1h1 b u U\111
dmgon.tl corcl Sll!l'P :;~r {HI a (,3 dcgtd: l\\ 11l \H':W~ iur p:mt>rn l!i found m topcnnt .md ~mug.~ (Sa p::~gr - _
trou ..er.' 111d hrrcchL'<:, hcth::f' 1 he .lS'>t)\Iat ron "nh rutd 73)
1\mish C'.l\.rlq• o(ilccrs. Alrhuugh ca\1111) twillts dw
IJ R I \ S I ..; (,, Cill!NO A durnblt• dose \\O\cn ton 11 tabm
n,·,guuln:lmt: rh,· l'.:-- go\erumctll n:tmt.>d Jt
llfl \J\r\
"claslltl''~" ht•cuu't: t1fi1s ~u·c1rh qunlity :uru ~iurnlHitty ongtnall} marie~ m M:llldtesr~r lngl.md eliiJWrt~'ll tc
I~H ri.imc clut h~~ lnt.t Ill rhe,11 exported >lg;Jtn to Llulla'l (r m \\ iu r; tt \\
•
UCluglu for b) the U "- \nn~ 'tanc ned u tht.
U!iC
C1 1 1 ~ :~TRJl'l. \ ~~ IipL• of h.}~~dik"· cfCr:ot suntlllr tn l,l11hppmc~ bt·forc \\ \\ I Jnc ruunt·- hm • \\ ...
dJ\•m:u k r11.1J~ with ..1 railof"s chall. usunll) fuuud m .1ppar.:ntl~ dcrhcd from rht: r~,l th.1l rhc fal n "
l1:umt•l dm!J, "ath .1 light orwhitl' l',,Jor spaced pu.rchatit:d in dun:. Du.•d 111 J:ktll n \\ 1hc nl
'l npt' "l!t 1111g ($er the -!'ui1 I nbncs.. g:atcfuld p.1gtJ 79) inbnc nnd drc d1:u \\.ouJd o.:nlt rand rhc u , 1f
l'IIALLI A hght'\\ eaght. IUIC•.!iplln. ria Ill '\h'n\ c \\ on;r('() nuhtJn "enr \lso the naant of 01 m~n \\:t h:1W f 1n

\\ ool t:tbrtc nr·igm,mng 10 l n~lnud arouud 1831,;1 Its p:tm made ofduno duth.
tl.1f11t' ClllllCS from a llindi word nw.111ing '"~oft w the
Cl IROML TANNJ N{ •. 1
ht: l.llllltng oflt>.:uhcr h\ a n, 11
lbuch - h W':l" ilr-.t u~~d as a ncckwcnr prim cloth for of rhrommm ~ah ale~ C::li:pci sl\l :m.:ll ' d~ ira lc:
.-mnll overall p:mL-rns of a sport ur p:tislr} na111r~ :md ml'dmd than 'cgetablc l!!ntuu~
rh\!.11 Jd:1prcd by r he 113tural "'h(llilJcr !iCt in the Ill 50s for
OLid Vt.''l!t, tromcrs .•m\1 j..u:ker:-. (&r page 1)'1) C Ill R I~ HOOT Srr. p:tl).L 204

.... IIA M liRA) A fine. pl:liu Wll\ cu EtbriL· wi1 b a snft ~1...1\SS!C: AnY \\:~':lrnblc oi cndurmg \Jive .utJ amrn. t

fini~h mil izing u ''hit!? cow'n WJ\ n I' and cnlurcd
I I Ll.l NG .m..l fmtatJ rrimMil}' in shirt i11gs 0rlgtJ1;ttcd
r,:tmhr,li. rrancc. (St'l•""bW and "Spri11g"
111
hShir:r Dtbncs" g.udold.)
!l"-ll.1lh• ch:~racn~rih-d b~ unden;uttcd d('S'Ign and •muph:
dcmtlfng It u,t,r·d to be ~:ud th.tt lf an Ht m uf .tpp.ud
i11 1hc rcnuinrcl ia.:.hionabh• lor st."Vl n \ c:at"' u could bt:
'''nsillt:rt·d a "cb:\;-.il· ~

:n \MI'lfS· i\ pale ydl~m o;uedC' cnlm ti·lHll du.· t.lltnt•d t..:u \I{ I i\1~1 D WOR$1TO .\do cf} t:1bn· of
\\0\ L ll

!ikin0f 1hc [mopean gl'l;H of dw :.:unc llttmc: rwi~;rl·d prn~. \\ith rhc nnp rcmtl\c.'t.l .md rlllmughl
s-court!d o tlu:- wca\:C ' dl...drh- \1 th1c l ..cd f ...,r UJt 1
Cll \NNI l 1\ .;Jamed groO\c cut around dw uudcr
cdgl· of" IH'JL' m cutll."cal thl! 5,1k·'s ~titchil1g CLTI'I'[D I J~URE..'· Small cmhroadt: rod fil!urc:"' n dh.
t:u:e uf a fubric from \\ bich the Ilu;m- lx-'t" en the:
Cll.:\HM 1 usrA lighrwclgln, rich·luoking. ,oft 'a lin figure~ ha\c bL·cn dtppcd 1\n old and c'o:pe.tN\
"irh :t subdued lu~tcr and ;t dull O;ll"kin~ It i~ n pmccss rur WL•::n mg finl' p.tttr.tllt" I rru.tdd nh
registered nnml· of Bi:mchini Fcr:ricr, .md Comp:tll} ~hining no" illmos£ e du<-J\d produ ·ed m
SwJt7..crland
CIIA H,\'1:1 A "C't\..:
.. .
LCchlllc:llh· h1m\ n :1~ n-gmtr. ...
rm.mt.· gl\ en it during it~ !1r~r era of popu~.~~ II): lro.m
n -
.... r OC'K. A l:mucd ur cmhro1dcn~ H me I J 1nn ~n
about 171 s to 1-.l:;. Jurmg rhc rcgctK) nl llull("lpc , . the ('utsidc.lildL' uf the !;ock (Set p.1~c r-.l J
Dukr·oi OrlL':m,. Mndc from :t dingnnnlnb \H!:lH'. tll!'-
:-;ol1 duiJ tit.• silk drapt.:S \'Cf}' wdl Chat'\ l!t C'l Joik dtr Cu n TJ E. \ ti(• prime.! m the chrucn roh.: ~ •r
t1111~d PMi" o;htrtm:Ikcr.mad~ :;ldllfulul'C: nfth1 t:1brrc emblem of;1 club 1.3r group 1'h1.. l•~t dub tiL" •~ cr<duro
to 1 he nwmbcr ~ of rhc 18So l xetcr l olll·!:_~ nm tng
:1 '"dl .15 hldd fi!!llf'cd. spaL"ed-prim n..:..:ktic:s. "hti."h
the lllllllt' "l:har\'l'l~ C.lhlt' LO .. t~·tWI'P. (Srt' p;tgt.• 1-i-.) tt•:uu ~~~ lJ.xiord Urm~r: tn \\ ho rook 1h'· !'Ofnp<:d b. nd'>
t,ff 1h\.'11' ttl\\ 1ng h:~r ... :md tied them .1rot111d du:u nt"rl
l;lll·l '>r:.-\ noo·1. J\ plain toc,i. ... id<"·el.l~t i.:-atcd .t11kll~ in 1880
bocn, simrlar ro rho..; JODIIPUTIIIOOT hm s1r.1ph:s~
Popula1 in thL' T'J';u" and 196~1:. when H'r} n.ll'rc,\\
1 UB B(.)\\ f,/>TWlNG flO\\ flit: \mrri.'an IUUll gr\: 'll
to 3 b:tn\ mg-!thnpc btl\\ tic \Vluh:: \\hen ~ nt \ntl
tn111SCI"S \\ CJ'L' in\ Oglli'.
TA 1LCOA T: hla.:k or mtdm!!ht blm: \\Hh c:hnm:r J .. Let
C nr Nllt £ A \ant with a .:m pik pl'otrudm£ all muud (: r.· 1c:- C<>rbu~tcr: rop of p:t,gc lllJ Phtlrpp ~, 1rct
.It right anglc.!i 'rrom the rrcnch word for-l·:tu'J]>tlbr,.
page 1bJ.)
CJJ 15'1T.R IIIl D.,\ plain back. :-lightl} slmped O\crcu:ll CO"- r \n outcrgann~m \\Hlt lt'C'\e~ '"''m f :n'
m enhasrngk hrea~tl·d Jl} from or dnuble brc~ tt;d \\:lrtlllh 1)1C. fabnc. and l~n~J \4f\ \\tth f~h Jtl
l>t)1c.· In d:11 k grn} bl11e or bbck it may !l:l\ c .t mat" hmg
H:l"c' orsdi coll:1r · nh! ~·o.1t Is n.uncd lorn Hlllt.'t(·c•nh COAT lE NGTI L The dl l~O"l" a_-.; me-asured trom rhl"
ce.uruq i.:Jrl nf< hcMc·rtlel..l (..'ia patl! l~t'l)
·ofl:tr ~L':tlll undcrrhc Cctllfi of the lu-.k l,f rn£ n -.1 f
 o~ 1.:rdcr s '""011 u: do''
11 to thf' llt~n1 of d11~ j,tck~t \ center
bWiiliiL (~« p:1gt:> 40)
1..\.lllAR :H 1A.CIIFD HJRr J.'opulanzcd ;~frcr \\r\\ I
thts h n tJn..i.uJ slun "nh lmNI. fused. or s:t.'lrcht~
roi!Jr .ur;:rdtt.-d to .1 neck banJ
l..OU.-\R rAND The '~rtknl dimcn. ie>rt of.l collar
b.md m frum
O.ltl:.\R ~ r ns '(r 'iLLlTITl> .._OLLAR..
\..(.'M flf"'l!. nn~ 1..'\ST \ LA Tor f.·mn ofn ,ftoc \\it h
~t.utJJrd waddt and length mc:l5urcm~m~ but wtrlr
narf'O'.H~r timug he(·l Fhr c~.11nplc. a I) \\:ldth sltoc
\\-llll C wt.h h hcd
CtlM OJNt. \n .sdunn~d form of .:-Jm11tlg. rhe pro~~·~.;
ofarr.1ugmg fibc~ 111 p.rrnllcl altgnmcllt ;m~l n"lllll\ ing
.1010 fi~ \honer thnn dw desired lcngrh... 1 he rt·~ult is
'imooth )3m i~r.spuuungand \\C.a,ing
l.t.l':'IT:I LOOK In counterpoint ro \ nwn•n'
l:.NTAl
an Lr \Gt.: E f.t h10ns thiS I•ro~ \mcnc:.1n
mtt..·qtr~r-anon of·' P"cudu 1t.1han look f~:uured a
han "hapcl} '"'d'-" \t rtr\.'d "llll 1:u:kcr and l:tpcrcd
cufficss rmuscrs
Ct1N\t:RTrnu Cl m Luffi rhar can buuon or rake'
c:ufflmk
l:OJ'IHSfl~'-·fN DLl r \ ~ot"r medium .-.baJc ol grJp~tl.
blu~.:
CORm:n <-TtUI'I \ t)J.lC of shirting fJbru: 111 which
r.uc:~:d thr~ads arc bunched Ill \!V(.'f11) 'ip.h7ed im..:n·Jls
on the r.,bric ~ surfuce. gi·.mg a 1\.:.xwr~J dimt•fT'IIOII
l 01 UO\ N A bnd oi lc.nhc.r inr focm' ca1 m.Kk· fn.i m
"phr horsd11Jc or from the mnel"hidr. o(th~ horsl!'s
rump N11mcd for Cordob:~. Sp.tin ''here i r wao; II n~t
made l.mucd wuh 'cgctnblc mau:·nals, &t LS durnble
but H np ,rau
{ lROl no., \ lurd W(":tnng cur Fll.ll NG ptlc f.1brtc
mJtlc: of rottcm '" iclt runkcn lme-o n111ning length\\ 1sc.
"><> ailed bcr;.tu e It \lo.tS ungmall) made and ~xdushd)
" rn b) the hum"men oFd ~rtatn Hourbnn kmg of
I r;mcC' dm J ..:nm.~ptaon of the Frt!nch n:tme of the
kmg ~ dotlt ~orJ Jt, n" (~a p;tgc 1Pi )
l RHI ;;1' :.... UI: N r A spcct:uor ~hoe (.Sa p.t,gr 207)
( ., \r\< KCOLL\R \ !it)1eofcoiiJ.rfc.nurmg.Jhtglt
b md "uh a stcft" dosure. wom b) Ru".luau
llt'Lk
l o ack rrt ups
COTTo~ flufi} whltl! fiber.> irorn thL' :;cedpods of
\lft
th cutt 111 plitnt I ii'!it I nO\\ n C1fm luclh around 300 •
I l onon ~ "i ~ ltl.'iaderc:rl u·r~ mn- aucl prcciou~. lit!!
I ngcr n fiber: thl" bs.:nct the coaun qualm
L ll"'h 'N fL-\:N u A Ntll spon shm f.tbr11.: an'' hi... h
th IJCk t Ffl LIt;;{, thre:td .m: nappa:l m crc.u • 3
rn-1
\\ lh eft.ect lah· \ t db In oltd cult\~"\ strlpd. 1r
pb d (Sa \\tnt r-an the Slurt fabn1.s" g.ltt•f\tl,i)
• IT"'l"' r, \B,\k.DINE .A. duculc salk} !\mumh umng
be tt m fabric \\ tth .1 prepondcr.mu• o( \\ \I 1
I'
thf J In :t n n t\\ dl cft't:n h • mg pmnounc~.: d
dugiu :d 1m • r :\i,tl s
Ct.rrro~ -.WI! L A 1!1bric- "ith a ,lt,agonall) src..ocp waled
'urfaccc.m<.l'lj b) rhc inrcrlaringnirlu~w Rr•and \HI r
thrcud<: TWILL IS une.Ot th._• three basic \\'C:lVC'.'i
\ 'ou Nr ' r r M: \ ~..:.1le fM l'valu:mng rite qu.1l1t} uf
won I \nth gmJc..c; r.angmg irom 8o" or h•ght·r for
mt•rinn \\llol to lo\\ cr 1~1r l\\L'cd~. ck "I ht• ducker rh~
)'nrn. rhc lowl'l' dw gr.tdc mnnbt:l': the lugltcr the grade
uurnhcr. r!w fin~r the ynm
Cuu:-n ElL,\ pi\."CC or su(l~niilg lll:ttcrul or l~iltcr
ill~c!riC.I,JI"O\IIld thl" DaCk part or thL• :-hoc 1~1 uppon
1he oilter lto.:l dw r
Ct\tJ){:,f : \.)nc orrhc hon~ollt;ll row~ llriii<IP) in i1
kuh ll'd ~~~nic or .;wear..:r. Cm1r;~e~ 'i 'lri' s1 mtl:tr m
I II LINt: Inn WO\Cll flnril•
l:l>VIiRT ~.,<1.0 l li! 1\
rnidweigiH OVt!r\CMting
~ollo;;tructt:d froJrn two y.aru" nf difl~·re111 colt'lr!\ 111
W.\RI' and ·inglc color in PJI.~LJNG. gi,•ing at\\ illcJ.
mot tlt·d ;rppc.tr;tncc. Derin.:d frl'lm rhc rrcnch romtt·rr
and tt!t~Oct:ucd "tth rllt' ridtng ~I) at worn br h~"'rscmcn
guing imo th~.· thi~kcts or "coun:n .. where thl' pur~ut!'J
gaml' take:. refuge. Coven clorh" dJs)oic h:hlc is <1 tJ.n
with a dml~ ~,Jj,,c cast Usl'd toda) in it.\ nnginallo hl
18 ounce "'-'ighr torTOT'COATS :ts \\cll.ns lighrer
W('lglu vc.r.~10ns f\•rtk~·.;c; or spor1 tmu<ers.
\ \ Ru r r t'~ r ~1-11 L' i\t ~~
C/LJ/ht:s dl1Jl't IH<lkC: tflc lllllJl dJI}' JIJ<lfC thc111 d
I11d11Call dctlldtu/ respect. l ie CLW, lwwct'cr. do
Hwch /t1 l·omJJh111d it. - /3ro{1]~s Brothers
---------------~~
l ~O\ nn COA 1: A knrl' k·ngrh. s.ltowcr pt·oof fJ
fronh d wpcoat in \'FNITIJ\N I'Wl Ll. gcncrnlJ}' of :1
p:1lc ~tone color aud often with mmng '"h.ct coll.tr nnd
tlctali~cl \\llh three <.1r four ruv.·o; of.sttrchc.:: thr~c
c&ghrhs of an mch ap.•rr .n Jts slccn! cufi and btlttom
hem rl he: Slltdungs :tl"!! laold\)\Cr'i frurn flu: LIJIIC \\hCn
l"t!'infor\:erncm \\ J!'t needed tr;, prote•cr rhC' Co!ll cdgt.:"
from wear 111 rhc rhidl•t
{ 0\\' IJ[I L \11 uld CliptC,.SlOII illl" .J I"Clllll\ll•d COrlll..'f
slun cuff
RAVt\T .\ rcrmfor:tm•d3t<•dert\·cd iwm thr l•ench
cnmztr In the SCH~nrc:emh ccullll"} <.;m.lfian mut\7Cil.u
~oldie!'\ cmplorcd b) the fr1·nch gmcnunc-nt wore
lin~n sr:an,.• around their nc,·k!\ I rcnclm umcn tlmk ur
thas kind of m·c~vl':tr. \\luch mt•nl:acrnduptt•d 11ll'
fa.sluon !-prt'~d to I ngbnl1" b('r~; tlj{' ,snrf \\.ts t·lllcd n
cr.tvmr It w;p; the {lflgm (If thl' modern nc•tktlr:
t IU rr Fmm tlw frf'nch' rb (rc~r. llh.'.rn1ng ..lll fuu
nnd curl dl·ri,_,c,l from th~; Lwu rrisp111 \\nul rq><'
1
nnklf m.mc ~urfncc rl r'~o·ct '" obtJmccl w uh ,,}ugh
tw1st >·u·u knnwn .1s l."n~ pc t\\ •"t pm Jlld Jlrcrnilld
nght l1and .md left hand rw1&red y tnt" m tht• l-' 1u
 -
1r '·'as popul.mud for mcu&wcnt m the 1')80s b' Cl R I -\l ~ \ hangsng np Pt l~n n • t 1 1 t
•
luls.m ~:lc .. Jgncr <...,orgu.> Arm.uu \\ h~tlJt"r trt a t\\ all or \\ 1nband muill) f dt ~ \:I bn th J
plau1 \\ \.'il\ c aep · d11th!i arc dr) hght. and dmpey llmng. m W' a.Llcan hm\h r tht tr u
I' en though th pm .trc \\oorstcd tt not of d1~ be l
1..1ualit} \\'t,ol ~rcpt• can bt• cuarsc to the ruud1 l f Jt,. u rm pplJcd
TO I M.-'1. Of t
app:~rel,naJc h' cortfonu h then l u
(. JU 1'1 l>l ( IIINL \fine lighrnl'sghr slk madt
\C') 1nd" sdual ru mmcr' fl"'ct 'I' bod 1 1 [
'dth .a crC'pt.: w~a' ~ u~u.tll) ~onstnactc!d \\ n h o1 ro" dl lor tlu as Ill !' nJ
\\AilP ,lJ1d CI'Cp< (\liJlH salk I IL11Nl.
Cl.., \ ttnn tl'il.-d pnuctp:~IJ n m: l.u- b uu ,
l RJ \\'N I \ ~ Pullm ur S\h!atcr wrth :t rouud nb kn11 \\ hach u.Jtcah:~ rht: numb r f 1 t: dl pt r n h rhr
nt>rl, '.uncd for lmn shins w:or n h) mcmhc,-.; of c~,llcgc 1tliU 111g m•Klum: I hu m.ulun h vu g 4 n dl
.!·-1 rt•\' ing team:. r" "~n·ws- (Srt11......aq t~r:mr. page 169) JlCr mdt IS a J.:J cut ma.chtnt .md llw r ult n f. h u
CIUMI' Tlh' n.nur.Jl wmmc!ts fo11ud 111 wool iihc1s
a 1::J ·em doth
DRL ... ~(;
ffH ;\1 ~"
L1111 f, )flit it)' of w:n iII<''~ snd Ka tc10 n ··II pcdor "ool TlrL• CtrTII.N!) 1\\N .Thct~.:nn.ppltt.:dt llpr.,;tr lrutlnn
IliOn· th~.· cnmp 1he fiHL'f the wuc·l orl:mncd falmcand
\\'ll\'cll e\\Jll i.IZ h}land, r
madunt:
l.RI M"ON· A Jl·cp tn 'hid purpli!ib 1vd m a' 1dd red
t:olor. (.t rA\,A"''· In fimn;~l cLn \\tar a u~t JLJ\\ m trmn
wtth t:ul:; C'.tt"!nJing tO the bre..U. nf rh kn , m b k
l;R• 11 1rI.-"T A m:ucrial h:tnd nudt• or m:tdune kntt b}
and a cmc button siuglc hre:t h:d fr m ' rh n t iu.'ld
hook!'; hum rhc French word mca11ing "tu I!O(lk ·
pc:~ked I.~pd:. Tha coat J' cut .m.a\ on 4 mn hn
CRL'\...k!Nl~ .\n cx.~s~ d~e thar mhs otT on :m nrticlt:> fmm thr \\:list rn irom tn dt n-:~r Jr m ,, be W d. r
(If :tppard of\\ hich dll' 1Jl!llCrial j.; said lQ "crock" oxford &fllJ worsted wnl1 br.udoo or pl tn tdgt Jnd
CROS"~ ~Tni·l r .A ncedl~work srirch M'lllt:tllliCS u cd
\\ orn '' irh a m.atchmg pale gr.a} '' lutt: b If'' t,~t~,..
forornnrncmatron.orn~a uhsmutc fur 1 Eli II'!, [hin CL TA\\Al' l..OU.AR TI1c formal da) " r shrn tJ
m.n~riaJ:.. or tho:~e li.tbl~ ro frar on r he edge. "1dc~rc~d pomts th:u. coompanu d the f, rmal
cur:t\\ 3) tnsernblt.• 'Iod::j) thl h.:nn ' a g ntiJt.:
CHl>TCJI I he f.)fk or :l pa'irof Ll (lli'L'P•; th-: anglt' dc.o;cnpnon fl)r an) £lun collar" h , e pntna re
ftmnt:d h\' dll~ rnr11nt!
.... of l'H.l ~~~s lll' branclll·'
~ l'Xlrcmcl} sprc3d or upcn ( tt page 26 nght
CRO'I'CJI 1.1 Nl NG. t\ pk;,:c oilining pi:Kt•d at t ht.~ phuh,gmph)
tfotl!>t'l'~· fnrk ro co,er the junction of ll~ li:'ur se:tm~
" !)'' I'OCKI T JAC ~ \ pr.tcth:.:JIJ~ 10\J1i!UI t) oth•• p~
CROTl;J-1 fill CE , \ pkcc of sdf~fitbric ~c" 11 to the
1111 pnckeJ .;1dc-stitd1 rack runnmg fl'om ~··.mt ro •c;1m li
LI'Oltst'r.s· under~1Jcs :u the fork. whc.m the m.ttNi:tl i.' :1 jt>t ted po ·k~r lll rcmforrc tt.'l ends frurn bre.1J tng

not widt.• enough ..)uch :1 tailoring det<ul i!. cmb!cnr. t1" ul the fine t
qualiq in ll.and.madc dothutg 5« Dougt>l... Ja rb;u~
Gnu\\:--:: The rounded se,rion oi dw rop:mlc lt~ad oJi suit ~XJrke' pag{' 8C))
the skc'e
11 B l.AI'rL .. A pmmed sn le of I.Jpcl5 u UAII) c.: n an
C RO\\ FOOT TWILl: A 'atin wea\l• \\ ith a broken doublt.•-brenstcd coat:.. suit j~d:er~ .ortnpcaJt
t\\ ill efi';.·n. somenmt5 styled m smgfc br<:;.lSI~ sun ·o;nc: (~
CRl 111.1> llfv.n.r:s· [nglish ..;bng for·badlr m.tdc dlustnmon pages ~4 and '))
bunonlwle!> ~ DA~~ \\ "h 1 BAND· The first !odf suppomng bc:Jrlr "
CUUAJ-: !I EEL: A broad low or rn~dium - high h~l·l w11h trous\.'r ill\ emed m JQ)2 bJ \Icc tmp!o n I Ir. ~cntu.ill)
n.mu:d n Daks ~the acrumm combmmg (bd 11nd
M

a st:r:uglu brc.1s1 :tnd a curved back line

Cut r ::,: -, ht: rurn ... up of rrou~~..·r bot tOms. whtdl "c.r\,
oircn turned ttp in w~-.·t ond muddr wc-:nhcr. Kmg
J d" :m:l VI I (then Prince of\\ ale<;) s(:mcd dw f:tsluon
fCir ptnmnm·nrl}' turning them up in the t8•,Hh. PTU:o.
(Penn.lll(~nt 1i.u·n - lrp~) b thc.!:!.A\'lU 1-:o..•W tl:rl!l rt)f
1 n:mst·r t ll rn ... up~.
CuM r.11 Rntrr-.: 1"1 •\ w:~i,rb.tnd of :-.oli\1 or paltt'rnt•o.l 'Ilk
made wirh or wil hout up.,vard-f:win!! ph;:Hs 111 pl.tco: of
n form.tl wai,tcoal \\ idt a single-hr~:to,;tcd Jinnl.'l' J:tckcr
Originollr a snsh \\urn in lndi:~ (llinJ1 kamarbarrJ).
brought tu the \Vr..-.t b} the Hriri:-h lbj In J~H thr
cununct bund c.unc to the fore :1~ an aac soq ~lr thl'
\\hue nws~ p•ker. \Vhilc rh\.'! me'' jn-:kcr's popuJnril)
w:1s sh011 lived. ir did t'pen the doM for rlh· "hit~;•
dinner J:h·kct :tnd helped mak(' Amcri~.."ttns
ounrncrbunlf nms<Jous. (Sl'f page ;..t6)
~~lncks.- in mcmorplflm f.1rhcr ( • p.:l!!C1i-)
DAND'I J.)M l'opubd) thought ro mritn •dJ~b) r
•cxlubmom m ··but m fru:t u onl) mean
rerf~crionbm In the Lime.: of ncau Bmmmd
<bml} i~m \\':1• a ~tern rc:u:ttdll ng:unst lht: b~m.. nd
or
mac::Jroni..; the crghtee:u:h ccnmn , .. Jm h.td been
I )ppi:..h !bt'} om.l all bnund Brummd produced n
drc>sing ~ric of -uch C\:CfH} dtat n renun JJtnd
cxco replanng n '\\Jth nl:'.ltnt:"!--.:: "Hnplu:Jt\ nnd ,ar I
rnnc." .. orr~crncss
D.-\RT r\ -han -.c;un usro to gt\c requrrcd !.h pc t ... a
paniculaJ p.tn ofgarment: \ cur,).( h"h .. m t.ui
p:u:lancc O\\ mg it:' rumc u lt' rough n""~tnblan ~ ll
ft. h hcmg 'nde:- m rhe m,ddlc rh.m n1 C1th rend
l)[:J:ft">TAU:I:.R: 1\ ,.tifT-bnmmcod ~ ft l"ecd T nh
c-ar tl:1p..; Lh:u are Lt<?d up an thC' crown \\h~n n l m u;,e

---

~ pula.nzcJ dunng Q_UCl•n \ 'icrm:.t' rt:•gn un comsh
c:.s&u "here deer st<tHting \\a.' t---opular
[lE \U BOSOM mort tan:hoo pLun Ur ph.·arcJ
\
b sam ofa dmt Oes1gned pnroarih for formal and
cmtfomul ua:Jr (.'i« p.tg~ .l.) )
[)Fs 1M \ "tunh rwtll \\.:~h:
fabric 111 cotton or n
bfcrui 'f fiber \\lUl a :s.oltJ \\ARr and \\hitc Fll LING
{kmm ''a first m.1d~ about two hundred '\Cars .agtl in
"'-i unc" f r.mc~ and us n=unc ~ a corrupuon ofru·
:-..; mc.s. • fhc \\ord JC.m~" 1s nnorhcr corruption of
·G(JOdr. hahan s:ulnrs fmm dte port ofGcntl:t b~tng
tltl* t'1r:o;t w \\-C:tr the t} pe
U1 RD"' \ bo\\ lcr \ h.trd -t1m h ic.lt h.a with ,,
rounded cr~Jwn .tud a SLJI1: curled ~dgt! brim "Ihking
tl!' namL· (rom the Derb' .1 hoc;e •.trc t:,t,tb"sh•d
.u Epsom DcJ\\ns ml-&0, it "a~ custmn to wear .1
bt "l'-"r at tlus .md other races m England lu th.:
~ fi1ldcd C'111lar: J.$ l)PPl'St:J to tlw upturned sltlglc
L mti!<l t:;ttcs the sutTiut also h:1d n..-..o.:umon~
'' nh ho c me~ parucularlr the Kcnrucb Dcrb~
In I• so ~orfolk bnduwncr \\ illiam Coke (hcucc
th rumc I\alh t okt:· or .. Bill) cock) commis,ioncd
}.tmc L.od the wnc:rnblc.! london hatter. to levisc
omctlung rugged fi.1r lu:; g:unckccpers, \\hoM" topper
kept gcmng knocked off,,hcn the) \\crC chJ!!ing
pqachcr Lad adopted nne of thmr 0\\ n cightCl'Hth
r ntun ndmg h:.1h nnd h:HI the protot} pe m.tdc up
b i1 Soutli\\.Hi; fell m.lkcr named n \\lcr. Tlw I I'CJl('h
lrke to poult nut dull 11 ~lmuld be: rightly btl!..:J a
hcauhcu lfl(C th:tn\.1~ rhe n:tmc• of the fdt 111akt:r
\\ ho budt r he lock protot) pe. be tore ht.· :.ngl int.t~d rt
1 1 l;()\\ ll·r 1ock London still c:tlls j r a ( okc. (Su
p-Jgt: 88)
OJAG lNU \\EA\EA rccprv.lll\\t.':J\'C\\ith
n table hncs th.u appear. Ill mall)' fabncs su..:h 15
11
w t,·n [\\ cd anJ \\aNted sutrings \Vh;:n ;~ ·c.tiagon.tl"
1 spokton l 111 the rrade at i.: undcrnood to mt!:ln n
~ rs:teJ dodnnth J \\l"JI defined nght h.md t\\ rll face
uda :t thL" tnnd.:trJ Sl:"RG£.
l1L\MO o \ that progrcso;co; JU<;t '\o far
m1ll \\c:p.;e
mJ then rc\-Cf""e'i .tnd then l'C\Cr5CS tlu: TC"o crr;h •n to
makt i1tmond~ JOUI un c:tdt uthcr TI11s we.wc can
m.tk.c man dtlTl!rcrn on:s ofthamond lake Jc~tgus.
udtl.l'i the phc.tsam !'i c...1· • lor ultmgs and 1ackcungs
D1 til dctJchnblc bosom rhat could be ~lipped
\
t•\.cr the body of the ~;hlrt that been me an ~scnri 1l p 1rt
f \\.:tltl'r\ umfunn rn the 1~30s
Dr \I Pt r The' rncal gromt: fonncd undc1' the iour
m h nd or \\ rndstr ~ate Hi'' h~.:u ucclkmw•Jcdgc.tbh
( pag· 167 .lll)
[ J N l R 1-U...K.E.T .st.( H XI 0 )
fll HARGf PRIN fiSt. fhi."
unpnntmga
prot:<!SS 1f
p n m • n :apr 't ru !\ d 1:J I lm \"Hh bll'a hmg
m 1 The h mrcal dischargt:thc d c Lim
ere an!!th p u m
[ m \\nh p!!ddi aradun~.;nt'> thu
It pc I m c.-t\ Jll-mcr d~rgm dot~ ~md
r np 111 rm~d w \CD r ~If «1lor ct:io:: P.i
-~~ --
I )O[Sh.f<". I hi.' ~l! lD!: ,jJt· ~ f the .. kan ol .1 dl'tc.lnrnb.
or ~hccp. used for glo\C~ t'r ~>th ...·r lcarhcr goods 1\lso .1
ct . _,scl} ,\:~wen labn. .· \\ ith 01 .laghtl) n:1pp~d surfurc.
used for -l:t~b or .;porv:mear:
I 01 tAN "1 FrV£· \ full--t:ut slcC\C th.u IS \'cl') '''dt• at
the annholc
Dt>SI G.\1 ·1 \\'1 f:p· ' ' hanJ-s.-o\lrl:d !tome pun n'ccd
urigin~lll)•lt:l!hh\O\ en b} croftc.·r~ in Count} Dor1lgnl
lrctmd No'' '' P\en b) n1.1chin~.·. :1 clt.Jr:tCtl!ri~tk of the
f.'!bnc is irs cnlmful nubs.
l1l>t IH.l IHtL\STCn: \ Joublc·dlCstcJ j.tckcl
'' :ltSl(u:~r. 01 omer(mH C'ltt hl all(l\\' 1.l\ l.!rl:tpping :1t
Gto
irom ... lm.iug "irh tW-(l vcn ic:tl mws u(buttom anJ a
ingfl• ru\\ of bmmnhole5, '' ith ustl:l!ly n singll' burton
nu tlw unJc.:rsiLic to .;~·cure tl1c fabric ..m d1<> \nhcr side.
Dot nu: L..0Ll.AR' .i\n old lt.'rlll for .l turnc:J del\\ llllr
'' ing \."olbr St} Ie.
DOUTII.E CUFP :::!ec fRENCil CUI F
DOUI\Lf KNIT. Double t:.Ked f.1bn( that lms the
:tppc;u:tnc~ of tWJCL"-knini'd jcrsc} lauric I)oubl<.>-knn
ftbn~.· br re.1:.on af irs rwo ·nt·cdlc con't rucdo11 is n
more d1mcnsi~.1nall)' ~tahlc doth th.ll1 ~irtglc needle or
wm·cnrinnnl1cr.;c) i.'lhric ~lade un circul.tr muclnncs
DnlJBL~-Vl.N n:D: Si!r p.tgc ~9
DOUUI.I WARP Thjl) do~dytextun:d t"ill
~·mrst ruetion lor lll!ckwcar produ,~.· .. '('ry iitll bodied.
lui\uriou~ silk rh.,t pro,idel' the grouud t(,r mall)
sp.IC..:cl and nil on· r flgu r•cs.
DJt.\P[· The m;tl111t'r in which a £:lflllt'llt hJng~ from
rht• 'ihouldcr or wai'r ror t~1\.;mpk dte Lngllsh dr •IJ.1l'
(or English lounge) is au intcnclcJ "l) lc fe.uun.: 0i
men's j .•ckt•r;, or omcrcu;HS pionecrc,1 i11 the carl)
l~.lOs b) the Pdnc(' uf\\alc!..,'s m:wcrrd: tll1lor
I rcdcnck Sch,~Jt,•, inspired by the \.UARPS t 0\1, it as
char.tctcn~:t•d h} fullucs~ acrms chc:-t nnd mcrthc
houkb bladt· l•l form tht vt·t'lJcal \\ nnkkc; lor form
comfort. and the tmpression of rnu:.cularitY The
draped ~1lhoucui.' domin.ucd men' L!Uiorcd tnsh1ons
t1woughout tit~· I'HO.,.md 1930s llr.: word ~.fcrn•c·
from the I rcnch t!r.zp. me11ning Mdoth .. (Str llnugln,
hmb.mks und U,tr) Cnopcr· p:tgc 38)
DHAWI~~G IN A tntueexpre:),'>tnndc~nrbingn
IICCC.;~lf} I ighteuiug .11 .1 pan or
:t g11rtncllt WIJ~t'C
lo<,s(!ncssc.'l:i$t:" .1 nmningstit~eh drnwn nglu ~ .., ns ru
gather tlw m.uen11111ore ur lc ..~ 11poa1 itsclf.
DIU SS; or
Rdl-rs to tbiH ~~~t...- the l rotch fork oi n pur
l,( trou!ir•rc; \\here tlw m:tll' gu11t.1IJ.1 Me pl.1 .:-d Bclorc
bncfs '" lu.·tl muST mc..:n wore boxc~. smpC'ndcn; pullt·d
the truU'mr h•gh up mtO rl1c t..r'Otch IH!CC.\Sit:mng rh:a
rhl' uppt.'r thrgh .trc:t of a slim fimng tramc.:r bt:
dcstgnt.: I to acrommodnrc tlae ~right or "le-ft cJ;-c, cd
m;~n (Mo'>t men dresc: on Lhl' left)
DR.I:S'i or1 f d\\<trJ \ J I I rescued tncn' s-tyle from
rt'i \ Ktora:m I rruglu p~kct mcm.tfm h) promuung
\\ h.n he fL•nnt:d drcr;..o; 11oit • roft .:t:~ll.u lurt~ \Hth
loungc1illlto; pleated frum oft.dt~uhlc culhrformal
 :~h ll't uJstl·ad of st4lrchca fnmt ont s "ir h o;r •IT,., us,g
a:oll.u" dtnnt.•r tarkct$ 0\l~r 1aslconrs l>.1cldl!'>
\\Jt'ih': ~~H tu r<~pl.u.-c full bad.cd tmco; ct~
DRILl \ dur.~blc
co tf'il.' mutcnal wnh .tl\\ ill "e.ne
t \:lf..•ndm~ up\\,trd tm,ard lilt' left· M 1 \A<..J J ht nJJuc
p~t.Jbahh d~mc.-. I rom ns u c f tr rht dnlllll~ umfi.mn
of the 1\nuo;h lrln) an trop1cul clunarcs
DR\.>11 nu· ddTc rcnti! in fndlC'i b<!f\\ ecn tit('
nW:t'iurcmtmt of .1 stm Jad.ct"~ dwo;t and du~ su11
tfOUM.!fiS. \\!liM [\ fmt \m~na111 lllf..!ll ~ "iUUS :liT. d~'l!;JW i
ll' .H·rn•nml""tm: 11 st~ mdt drop tfi'r c:-.::unplr .:1 .:12
1. h
111 h com cJ.cq 311 I a ~b indt t rwl!'t , ''at 'it) arhl<·tlc
cut:!! feature .1 dmp uf ~'eon indt("" or more
Dl' c 1\ l11~ mu:a dllrable J:tbt h. t:tiiiSlfliCliL•n so called
be-t-:t\1 <' 1t 'ht!d:. \\,Ut•r.IJkc a du,·k d, ,c_, Onuiu:.tlh .1
t> •
pl.uu do.;t•l) woven fitbrk tc,..CJnblmg, 1lu: liglmH•tghr
cnm.1s U!>ed for sail:. Used fc.,rsl:~t.ks sporf'menr. Jlld
''ark cluthc:;
l UT1-f.l. COI,T ,\ thrl'l' quart:et h•ngrh. k10 l:: 6mng
~oar\\ tth a huocl [tst..·nt•d wil h loop-; an,{ toggles of
\\Ood {II" horn In .t h~itV'\ ''onlc.n fabrk,tt \\.Is dubb~d
b) the lhl) al Na'} tl1c.' ~mm·o} coat· :m"1 bC"c.umc the
''gn:mtr~ wear of IJcld ~1:trshal Montgomery m
\\ \\ 11 In the 1')50!> th•· l\"'1 1 EAGl E .::;c.~ I ~doptl'<fll n~
J c.::tmpu i.1 luon -1111? name cOtnl'.S from the Hclgl.lll
'capon town oi nuf(d
Du~.t "" \VtND. Ole l'RINCL 01 WAll" .~c:t pages 64
and 6~
DUNwAIU!:I: )\ CCl:lr"c 1wilJ t~OUOn, tlriginal!y JH:tdc 111
l~omb:t) :llld ukcnup for \\enraboard ship b' -.nibr"
iu till' cightc~.•uth ccntur)~ Th,· "ard nc1\\ rdcrs to :1
p:m of \Hlr k bot tom!' or jean!' in btu\,· denim
DUl'IONI 1\ lu\mimts ~hanmng~l:·pc ~ilk l::tbric 1111dt:
from 3 double srlk ilber from t'\\ o cocotm:-. nc:-.rcu
mgcchcr (Srr Ullllllt.'rft in rl11.· "SUit rabrico:" gar..: fold
M
page 9~)
[liON1; [so:-: A bl:t~k color likt> that of cbom
- crade \n\• ktnd of :uncle mad"· from ;t .:umbuuucm f
[CRU \ beige or pale ran 'hade of unblcafhc?~j ilk or
Iuten
EoW.\RDJAN: P\.'scripti\C of f.tshi\)IIS f:t,·orcd b) King
Edward VII (reigned 1901 1910) and. oisub:-t•qm·nr
r.,shion_.. b.t l'U on rhc origin:~ I-.. !>Ul,h a:. long J:lfk~t:-.
:tnd dt:1inpip~ pant~.
I'GCSII r 1 1.. 1\ n off.,., hitc, the :.h:r~.k· o( :111 c~"hdl
[lSI NIIOWI R JAGl\l J • \Vuisr• lcugth j:trh•t of<,liH•
drnb wool \\'l)fll b,' '-.~cncrJI (),,ighr !) ll~t·nhowl!r.111d
~
othL•rs iu nllllt:'ln• :.cn'tL"c in \V\\ I I Luct \:tfilllJS
'\L'r~i{)Jili of tlu :;cylt> w~rc.: .tdaptcd for civtli.m we.tr
J NO ._lfWI\Rf'
I N D ON r.Nn u IJtTI.:-.:G· t\ rcnn .l~"p!.ed w a \H':l\'t'
0 '' hitc nnd colorco w \ RP •,·nrn~ t bat fonn
of rdtern:u ino
•1 minu ..culc cht.>ek effei"t. used in Cit" M IW.A \
lU OADC.l•) n 1. and ux htltD drcs.s :;hirrmgs
J NGl N I I: RED MOTJ I A me-t if dt:ll .lppc!<trl' inn
parw:ular !KlSifiOillHI ,1 w:~ usual!~ 1H1l) LlllC'~.
IN .. 1 JSH l.t\( J, The hsgh" t sed tn: u rd M J1
Lt \\ rn cu:lu
1 J\cl\ \\JUl u pt;nd.cr nd 1
\\.lJ!;tband curH.:' up"" rd m rhe b.1d· fiOJ hug
ll >tch at tlu.· C&: m-.•r bach floC :.im fhr- tdt:Oll , , t
It oust"r \\ lu.·n \\t armg a on JHtLJ\ :at
fN IC.~ niL r \ JarL tU\>t btu
wl"'r ,f an t: liStgn un1l1 mt
1 1'1."' LLOPF lltc ouu:r heU f tl n , l!.llt' dt l
\l'>tblc IntO '> htch thr mt rluung .... 11 ~rtcrl
1 l'i\UH r t\ ~tmp or orn.uncnt ~>tJTdud r 1 u n li
onto the: huuldr."T o{ a1 ganncm bon \\ d fr m
md rtnq uuai mns (Srr. s..1fa.rt J••da:l p.tg{" 1olt)
I n upngln <;LtUCC rcqumng ;I «<ltiJJ tt-mng r
Rfif j • I
the ~·om' b:tck ll!ngt h and u lengdlL"Tlrn • f u front
1 he opposite of iTOOl'1 Nc.
[SJ'~\ Dllll.Il \ Jnd.tl wnh ..l cnma ttppcr and .a n p
s~..~lc· lor bcadl\u~ar. h' AS cmgmall v.um b,
dockv.nrh·r m Sp:un and I r.mc
E roN 01.1 A R i\ rounibl i"l ul c<tll:u- .rcquu d ,
p.m of the Lrnn :tchoo1 umform ( fr p 1g~o: 1:;o )
LXTrNSJON WAISTuAl'\D A bcJdr:' ,,Jc c J tr •U r
rop \\here the left front of the \\.11 tband ext ruif n
10 fimr mchcs across tlte middl~ ro l.l ten 1Hth nh r ;.~
buuonholc and burtun r1r hook .md e\ 'm l tltl
oppo~irc ~ 'de of the wai~tband\ front ( rr 11lu Uil.Uun
page 6! top page 2.68.)
l "'r H t 1 .t\ mall hole or pc:rfor•n mn m:tdc l rt"i I\'C a
l.1n· or t:~pt• as m a shoe
r, [UT COI.l. \JL A drC!>S} co1br O:t}IC \\here small
huks n•c situated nc:trthc edgl• mtd\\il} up rhc coll.u-
'"~ an:ommodate :1 galtf or ~i.h c.r colbr bJr th:u
unscrew~ :.Hom· end The.st· cmh are uswlh m the
l~mn of tin} ,qnan.:. or ball . \\lu!.!h c.ut h g.mn hL.J
"1d1 a small shme. md1 m; a cabochon rul'} 1r
~mppl11rc
\\Ood
r \1\RJ C Thl" mo~T. comprt:hcnsl\i:' tt>rm Ill dtL' t~uk
tcxtilq"3rns Cloth "hirh r.mb nl"xt to fabnc m 1
dc..h ripti\ e bro!u.ittes: em not be u'){'d to denotl" l.ti:t"
carper. or· knmed goods. bur all of rhr c .trc f:.tbna
that ts. m:ucriaJ., mndc \\ ith tc:xtJic fibe-rs or prn
I AC£ 1fhc hcncr lookmg or .tnt<-nded upper c.tdr of
d{1rh
r ·'h"' l NC· The luting or ('(Wcrmg JT the edge or ,nlwr
pan of n g.trmcm. Iik~ tlll~ em ~nng on tht" lnpcl nJ .a
llinncr jlhcket (~c:c r~lgL' 1.42)
J <\ltU: A rib \\i:;lH! li.tbnc\\ltbacotdltf"tflict
.tehte\ cd b) w•tng h~,·tcT pmt m rhc lllll"'it.. Ut. n ttl
rhe WAR I' I ht> oppo.mt- oi RI:I' l~tll~.: •~ usn! tor bpd
L1nng~ ~1u fonn:tl cYo:.-ning dodtl.'"' other trtmnnng'
and ncd."'''"·1T. fr \\~, ongin:tll) a ht od \\UntO\ nun A•
tcnn later d~cnhmg :tnunl \ctlmg ( S« pa.;c ~-)
r.-.t R I'1 ~ Uoth a pbre otnd :1 dc.stgn The pl.lC~o: t~ ~
..m.tll. nts;i!cd r<:Innd ru..:kcd .>IT rhc ..o~N llf cmLmJ
1111.' dcstgn '"a i:'olorful kmmng pattern wnh
no' ·band:- oiwlnr in a fl£ :t\\ 1\ ~ oi conti:;tm:atJnn
 gnn.st .:s 6-ltJJ\ bad:.ground 'W~tcrs bc~mng du-
p-.utcrn \\ere first made b) the 1s-h•1J crofu:rs or
renam t~c" Ht.:.-:Jnn-g that au~ Hdm.m f:mncrs
\\ cr IIl a:onomtc trouble. the nuJ.-c of \\ md..or
donned 'De .lS rhe Cilpi.Un of the R...wal and \ndcm
\.Jo.lt t'lub m S.unt \ndre\\-; m Iq~~on:Jpulung thl•
..,\.:Jter arui the tdand -s cconoun into fa~ ronurd
( ,-r PrUicc of\\ ale<: page bonum nght )
FtiHION '\t \R ~m;Ul mdi.!Iltunun;; o~mun-i dtt:
rull.tr Jnd sh •uldcrs of a fuJI fa$h1£lncd g.mnt'm
slu wm,g 1h~t n was knmed ut t"t1C pien" and tll\•n
~m.:h~-..d r.;c;hwrung D1C.1Jt•; the proccs.. of mcre:hing
or dt:cri!a. Ill£ th~.: \\ tdth vfk nlrred f:iliric h}
'onnnllmg du~ rnph:mt·.nl ot tbc- nt~dl~s S«
Tt:l.l M~HIO~t:D
f.iiT Th~.: Lcrm .1pphed m a culor clur:rernms It"
ongU1tl 4ld~ .:tfrcr '~po!iure ro sunlighr. \\:Her.
hle-.1dung. pn:~ rug bc;1t. en:.
FruOR.\ :\ m~n:; {Oit fdr har "~ idu ccnt~r crca.<:c and
61 roUL-d bnm It mkes u:-. n.unc fi-am the drama f"idcrJ
{r 1) b, \ actoncn 'ardou (.S« Btddlc, pjgt: ~)
FLU 1"l\, one pmcc of m.ncnal.ll\ it.~ edge
C\\ mg
upon another: thc 'it'\Hl t•dgc being cithcr r.m or
rumcd m .JC@rdmg ro ih~; m.ncrial or the pw posl' to
~ cu.lmphsh~·d
FnTI}. , The pmrc..;. ofcombmg fi1rpanidcs or
ther fibers b) kndtdmg then fthrmking the-.~ nuo one
mhd f»C'Gl: of mat.cn.1l l"hrec uuncc" t.lffur make .1 hat.
[ka\ er w s once usaf but Of\\\ umsth nurn:1 has t~tk~n
l place
EfLUNG S« \\EfT In W("..l\ mg. me prn mnnmg .1[
ng. lt :tns:!lc~ tlJ rhc length ur \\ t\Rr yarn
ff"l£ flt~ rcnn appltcd w gr.u:ics ofwool or conon
tn '"- ~n mg. ~udt a'C h)O~ l2.0s, I)Cl.'-
fI GERffl' LrNL.> n-1 l1t~: lengt:h l1fa ~O:tt th.Jt CXll.'ndc:
t 1 th tip frhe finger ormrdw21 berv.ccn the htps
omd knt.-c
Ff..,.l H P••"'t. l reJung .t t~nc ~ covenng t:hc surf.-tct"
unprn tt .:tppcar.zn c b bfCllching J1·cmg.
pnnnng \ r '\\ ~erpn.,..•flng tt It b 'S:tid that tC.'itllc
bhn .rrl" m..1d · Ill r:ht fint'lh11l}'!.- .tS no ):.trd of doth
' ompJ trl} free from dcfcru
fJ lUR\H"c ~~IT. Bulk} h.tru:I-knn :v.c.ncrmadt:
f n; tuntl It r '' Jtl'r rr:pellcnt "ool ut Emq t r tchc~
d1arJa rt"liC oi \ran I land off the 1\J\ of {,:tl\\'li}
10 ltclJnd l)ngtnalh f-r: m In It f1~1t"'nnen who
' -.re h.tndknn swc.-:trcr!J m t p-;utcrn md.Jcaung
i\h~.:reth lr\cd..
I L\IR \ urpiu f v.adth pur m bc.lo" the \\'3l.'it nl
•mnl"nt l gn .m mrcnu rul ZlJlpt:nr~nc~ nfluo~uco;
t tdc r du; ct ttn \ !me bapc fmm rh~ \\;}1 l
J ( h ~ku ~ l · pAg1! lOS )
11 th \\ mi' r.t:" d lous 1 '\1.
ll n r u u t.:d \ .trm LU phun art HII
rh :t pp<".d urfar c ~once 1tht' \\ :t ~
f \P \ ·nng fi r tht= m• tth of a pf'\.d..t!t
rt.ARES. ~« J;H l 8C~n\)l\t"'
ll..AT BT:· \scat \Hth Jt:,.s fullncs than .1v1:rJge
t.".au~mg the ~:1nncnt to :tp~:tr t110 btg 111 sc;ar ;~r~a
fliGHT J \CKET \\:tl.H-IengLh jm:kct oCk.-ttht ror
other nut~d:t) \\tth a shccp!'kin hn1ng and tnmnung
fuqcncd with a .,ftd,· fibnmcror with bunons
mechnrtJC'.aJ1}
rtOA1'': W\Rl' thr(!aili that arc 110!
mckt•d uuo the bad:·sid~· ofjn"qU!lnk-d destgn th:Jt
musr "'cro ~"or •Jloar- .:wcr the" I f T rhrcud:<~ on the
l:udt \.Urf:tcc nfa "ovt:n fubric
I L."' 1 RO;:o..;T A dt:Ntre in which a pbckr.:1 ur pir~c uf
[1bri.: .:cwcr.s the buttons or zipper. u~cd on coars.
J:l~kc:•t<; .lnJ tr<H~t!r•
FOH· \chain {)J'riblx.H1.hanging from a pock.:r ,,,m:h
cunue.::ring it "ith an onmmcnt It 1:; wo1 non the
rn.m~ left 'Ide ( th,.- ,.unc -:id\.· of whtch J man c.lfricd
his 'word. ~ilnc(.~ rhe ward1 was caster' to locarc '' trh hts
n)!lu hand than with hi5 kft:). (Su page S-tand 91 )
rooTWT \R u:~r~o. The rea~•m win·• an old boot or
shoe is tkd to :t hone} moon car 1S a rt•minder of .m
and.:nt cu:-wm. In An£1o Saxon ume~. th<" shoe haJ
4
the importnuc.: rhac a. wedding rmg dot:' m modern
time~. Th.: hdd~ would pass her shoe tO thl' groom
dunng the ccrcmon} :md he would st nkc her he:td
"irh it :ts a ~ign ,,fhis fururol! authar.it) u w;tcmng to
his pou;o,t' to w:nch her "'~-.rcpper
FORK Str. CRCl rcu
FO!l.:'\fAL; ·r hu ll..:rm .tppllcd to clothe.-.. and J.CCI!~"C'fiC:i
for w<.·~r on full~drc». or form:tl \)CO.'iions t.l ikuar" or
cla•uter jackers for cvenmg: cm.n-..':1} t:oat.<: or oxford
ptckers ,,.ith ~tripcd trouser.' tor d:!)'IUllC
Fotn\'AJU> PlEAT A ItnU!'Cr pleat th:n fold, Ltcmg
th~ fl} 1.;sociatcJ wuh EngiL'ih tail(!nng. ,tl> opp;; ed
to dtc rcu·1 'i.!d plc.tt onl!maJI~ chlled Lhc l onunenul
plcnt. \\ hach hh:es u:m-arJ rhc pocket.:.. (Sur Errol fh n11
page 118.)
l OL LAim Ton Frcndunan aJoulanf L" a "'ilk
h:mdkcrchn:·f 1\'ld.a~ fou.la.rd ,., a nnll dorh for
ned.:\\ i"~r or scarves usuallr made ln a laght ..!1k tabrtc
for prmnn~ multicllforecl parte' ns and often shnpeJ
hke tt·ardrop or. h,trru::t mcmt'S lnt:rtAiu,ed to
Ament:";~ 111 1R9o hy the ~enior partt\er of llrof'k&
Urot.hc~. ~I r rr.1 ncis Lloyd. (."cr puckt•t (qu.1rc
pag~.: .21~)
rOt R IN II.!\ NT) One of SC\Cf"'JI name-, for dtc -o;hp
knor • (1hc • :~don; knot- hCJng another) 11.' cd m kncn
tht! "long tte~ at du.: c.nd of the mnctcem h tcntUI) .md
«.-:trl) '" tmtJcth ~emuracr Tit~.: fi10r m l!.md ~~ thought
to b~ n ['('f renee to the rour~111 1-lnnd Club fmrudcJ
m f ngl111d 111 the rnn~recnth Ct'ntucy b oung rncn
\\ho mdulgcd m cmn..tge r..ICmg nnd "ho Jdorrc..l thr
\ ·n l.at1d oHn01 for therr llt.:s \ln:n~au,C'h rr c uld rd4 r
1 the I') pe ofknnt u~ h) dtc dri\ c: r \\hen h held the
rctl1 tlf .1 Cirn&~gt.: pulled bl four hor>c m ,, m;anncr
rh~l re mbloo a knm wnh l"\\Oiung u·.11hng cuJ
p..1ge 1C•6 and r6-)
---~-
 I mo N • I hl' lcat.hct· UM!d 111 tht! lowt:r pan ul d1c
qiUlrtl'r or h:h. k J'WTJUJl of thrt slwc,; l f'J'l R
l J'I:NCJJ ncn A l"liiUI'IHg lll~l• orgmng HOUH'rs
li.)M\..
1hc .tppcarnnet.• of normal·su.c cuff~ th:u do nm h.tvt:
t unugh lcugd• to make th~ cuir \\ rdth" pmpt rl}
I RENt H L n ll1c doublt: lcugth turm·d bJd '"·uff
of a dn.:.;.. o;hm, fnst<'lll d \Hth l.'Uftlmks
I JU N II Tl PI' I. c. 1 hc fi111slung of rltt• IJl'iJdtH•nds of
!l nc<"ktll' \\ ith the '>arne mnt~.:~rul as the 11IH·Il of the- til':
rn:o.rc:1.l nj a h111ng: a mort.' {'Xpcur>t\e :tnd sJallcd tim~h
to :J ll(
~I • l >.;c. I• HI S~l' ~l.ut} 'tllhmt·r -,umng1> in till' JlJ~U'> \\ t.: rc
t:
HI AI P~> laslu 111cd nfalooscl) wtncu. cnsp wook:11 1:1hra&:
<':tiled "tr\·-.ru.- \s rt "dghcd ••Imust q uunl-e' fl) rh"·
\Jr.! u ,,,1s £.:.trccl) light weight lull it\ pr·r~msit)
nccuUIItt:d lOr 11.5 cnnlnc' li,J:J~, nullt>d 111 8 to 10
ounCl' \\ur reds. dus f..ttha of 1It\.· mud an high m asr
cloth lllUI.l'S a pc.•r l~l't .tnt i~fute tO wnnkJ(' prone
tropic J! \\l.~1ght s111ri ng-.
I RON"I Pl.[~ nTht..: pleat.) in dt\! !Op!;idcs uf trousers
t h:n run an line\\ uh uou~cr< front ae:~se"S (Sc·r. p:tge
61 )
r~_;u C.AHDIGAN :'IT ITCH )\ h:tsic loop !ilrtlCillrC 111
buii..T nb kmrrmg r:. produced b) plain net•dlcs kruuiug
\\hit(· the rib n~c~llc.!:- tuck \t thc rwxt counc. the
fl''~"C rJccurs 1 hr 1:1bric h!t:- d1e . .ante .tpp\.·araWt' ou
DLllh -.ides. rhcrc bt•ing :m cquolmrmbcr· ot loop~ 1111
d1c f:tl't' .llld rht- rc\1.'r~t: o)f ~Itt' l:tbrie-
FULL I \~IIJuNJ:D ,r\ term appliL·d ru sweater.. and
~H.h\'r .:;:munu' compk·td}' knirtcd ro thdr lrubhcd
hapc 011 rho.: ma,hin~. .Shapiug j, done hy :1dding or
:suhrrncring srirchc:; to widen or n:~rnl\\ the i.1hrk ill
dc.trcd :~rcn~. The pt\J..:ess is used for .soc:k ..... ~\\~:ttl!l ,
ttndl'f" rar. ~md orhcr :sport:S\\ c;1r
I u ED COL LAR: .i\ ("ollnr !>titi~nt"d b) :m inrl'rliniug
l:umnatcd through h\!:&t and pre~!'ure w thl' top
and or the under.,idc Gbric to pn!\'l!nt wilrrng
and wnnkl6.
fU\1 NC.: Bondmg the inner and outer shell of n
garml!nr b) "dding rhc r.wo lay!.!r:- together The most
common mcd1od of tailoring co:u irnrw. wda). 1 h~·
intcrltuiug j, cl1:ued '' irh :1 bonding .1gent and "(u~<·d
to the ttJuJerstdc ni the surftJCc fabri'-' wnl1 heat .111d
pre!>'-Ur~· . gi' iug the clmh more sh:tpl' :md :-.tabtlir).
l11 e:-;pensl\'c dotlll'!ii rh~!\c r''") se,·tious ,,.,,nld be
sewn togctht!r b)' h.iiiJ
l.:n\ BAIUtl N E· A ill Wl',l\'~ in ~jn!!l~ or t\h' pl)
t\\
comht•d )':tl'll 'onu.•tinte" :1 thrl'e harn<'S" \\l',l\l'.
l.h:tJ':lCl<'ITI.c.l b)' di.tgunal twill line" in eitlwl' .1 .J) <)a'
63~dcgrc1! ,,hl~ljncd \\ Hh mort.' \\i\RI' thr~·;tds tlum
WII Ar thr~1ds. tightly WO\l!U !l~
w make it .1lmost
\\:ttc• pronf lJsu::tll} in :.olid colM~. rn \\OOI ~·\)liOn,
(Jr woc·l blL'ml. thi' ddicne but luxumm!>1) sdk) <·lc.rh
ts popul.tr for mtdwcight :-uittngs (,f trou,cr~ (.'lrr
DaHd Nivl n. p:tgc 114)
GA 10511 l), crshoe of rubb~..·r or ruhbcnud f;~hric
\\llh .1 rubber sole dos!'d iu front b) a z1ppea· 01
buckle.,
l~o~\liNJT \ d:ul n!d •qm.·.o u.-: nnn raJ u d 11
th.U I Cf•mpart.•d Ill ,fur tn th fruu f ;t r
(St<.c bou1 nru rrc pagL !f ll J
(u\U.• t 11u· .p;u:mg •fun nt"L'dlta fa krum 1
tnJLhmc \~ luch d~rennmc the- thr lu fin 11
tlf t h\: I mth .d f.ilin fh h1ghc rrh g u r numb r
of needle per gJ\ ~ n ~re.t th thmn r rhc fJbri
LuH Nflll HUITPN llutu. non J \ pi lt-1 t '"
d1c opcmng madt> b) th ufl illt.<l hm nt t d c
tJpt:nug Jun sit C\c
<.;u.J.Jt c..HJUU A lu\\ .murt 1>ho \\Ith ( l dt-d I n •
thai pass Llrrough lt·atllcrluop m.srt>;td ut ~ lt:t ::md
•
~..rm" bnd·ward :md fon\ar.1.1cro \.lh Ul!ilCJ
smn,•tunrs lll!ln amund rhr nn' lc A L-liW"h re..t 1
tht } Jti(.' U<>IUlll)" mJde \\ulmus n tongue II \\t1. r a( .1
tl'lnguc 1 useJ. "•' ll"lLlll) ftmg\:d TJ ~;; pte em ghillac
IS named afrcr rhe hrgbland s:cnaJJr'> \h Yt rt tllt"tn
viM I' I JIRBUA s~.;Jnl t H."tcd thrtad uJublc tor
makmg r:mcd edge~ ruuund h.mdm;u.lt• buu th I
Gl M l'J NG 1runnung and c..rmult.mcou!tl de. ~;:tm
the edges nflt~thcr pscccs Int >;ho maler J !> tiJ
\\ ith a gimpmg madunc: m ,,Jud1 ld.'J t l \\Jth
\'.lr"lous panem.; .md d{'1;!gn can bt- fined
GINGJII\M From thL htda)~\\ord rnfi?11ft vludJ
bcc:unc dte h c nchgumgan. A d} cd m thr- \.un fi bn
:111 l"X:tct rcplicn c·f th~· madr.a" constmcwm •n a m.tm
t hrrnds in WI FT :1$ m rhc \\rf\RP GeuL·r.Ul .hown m
ched:s or pbuk (Set Da\ id Nl\'en pngc 20'J)
l~l EN I'LAW· A four b\ fourand £'\\0 b\ t\\ tWlll
t•ffcn :in both th~~ \\' \ IU' ~fld I'ILLJN(, dtr<·• u n' 'fhr
['lncy owrpl.:tid uf ch~ GLJ NL RQ.1 Ht\R1 l'l.Aill J~>
mi :-.ing ill n glen pbid (Scr p:1g~ .:!.h8}
L~ J.i.:,Jl.JRQ_U !I ART l'LAI D .\ \\ ooJeJt or\\ nud <Uitmg
or n~ati11g ruatenal mndc'\\Jth the c\t:T populllr {!! u
plaid wn h nn ,o, erpl.:ud effect '' ~:n e 111 both\\ <\I,I ;znd
1 I LUNG direcuom Tlus i unc of the.- dt trt t du·d"
onguutll) :.doplt?d for In en \\ear b) nmcwcndt
c..:lltUI'} ~cornsh l:tndO\\"lll"n> It \\.1 a i;t\ nm~ uf
Ed\\ ard \ 11 I \\ he.1 he! was lhc Pnuu: of\\ 1l " (.vc
rhc "~uit I-abril-" gatefold)
~'ivi~L· :o-;ATI\ E .1\n cxprc -.ion coml-'i m [u~bnd
Jur111g the TCJ2P~ and 1q1os mc.uung h' dopr the
indJgc.nou... dn:-.. .s of::tn} lncJI culrur~ ror the
1-u rc1pl'an it mcnm \H'rmng rhC"co;padnllc f the
~kditc•r:tne:m fl~hcrm:tn, rho! ber. tot tl.e Bn qut
loc.rl or 1hl' seaward o:h rc of rhc: Rt\1(•r:t, I~ r \rnenrnn
ir tr:tn:-.hucd trtW dn:·~smg hke th~ f ..anbbt.Jn td ndcr
of lkm1Ud.1 .md 1:un.:u.~
GonGT -..C'nm th•u JOmnhe J:t.;ket 'colbrm ~~~ bp
( '\u pages .p. and 43-)
l.l RAIN The marL.;n\!' that arc left un the Jlmmod
"' rhc r<"mt)\ .d of h. 11"l .uh..r
..;urf.Io. r of a l~thcr aftcr
\\Hh 3 p:m"rncd sur.fac(" pn: duud b' pnnnng r
cmbu ~mg for footwear
G:tuNITI GRJ\'1 A darkt h .Judt: of~' ~&li!C~ln;;
gr<tmtc
--~-
 Li 1u h.• r: ( <.R \l) \~oon
Thl' \;f.;l£1..: of doth ,,Sit "ornt'"
from loom pnor to bleadune d) mg. or flni luug rtw
mmw ~-orne.; from rhe Fr.cru:h wordgrc~e. "hu:·h u~~J to
n:ftrtt naumtl illL:duth bctnrc tlni,hutg btc1
nngltctzafto -gra} "
GR! ~~OJ "t[ A ned,,\ car fabric wtth n gau?.cltke
qualm nude on .1 pcqwrd loom'\\ nh rhrcads ..--ro -.mg
from ~tdc to 5Jd~ Origuull~ ;t black silk bee \\Orn in
rrnncc- during rhc: caghtcenth ccmuq· Fsrs1 \\ o\'Cll
e~dust\d)· m halt \)II h:md looms cltc sumplU\JitSll•:.-s
of tr!o open tcxmre has c:-rnb!Jshl·d dw; !ioltJ rnlor w·
"-' u t:.tplc 10 the ltghtwei~hJ 'Htnlrob~·~ ui the "'''rid':;
~rton tl cugno!iccon
G~t0mR.Aa Thi dulled, nL -.ilk t~t.:ing jo; ll:>a-1.1:' .m
~
.tltcr:ll.tti\S: to the himc.r:11 ttin for trimming 011 loJrm.d
t'\cnmg dorlu:o; neckwear, auJ :accc"~l'ncl' It
onron:ual in the ~IIddie. \ges :111d gained popularit) in
f r.tnce "h~n tlk rarn \\ ns u~cd 10 m::tkc 1:abric. and i
nntcd fur n< pronounced Fll.U~,; rib cffc..:t 1 ike
FAILLf the h:t'm nnpltcs n hc-3\1 or dtickgr.Un line m
the cro •wt~ dtrccuon of the gooJ, (Src p.tgc..• 2.4;.)
lrl ARU l.-0 \T cwd111n O\cr..:oat p-atterned after tltt•
Jon r coat \'>i1rn b, the grcnadli.'T guardc; m Engl.tn~I It
tc; :~dark color: double-bre:tsred ·oat with n h:tli bl·lr.
an m\ l!rtcd pleat cxt~ndjng from benn.'i'n the houldc.r
bl.ldcs r • dtc homm1 hc.:m. and det..-p folds :1t rhe sides
l ;uM "' n L A name .;ometimc.." appl•cd m :a
JOLLARD R!t" tlk t$lcft ,t.ghtl) h::u:sh by a cc.•n:un
gum c.\udcd b} the tlk\'.orm A~ a-= removnl lt:.,t;'it'll"'
\\CJgln ,1 gum mill[;, WU\Cn wirh parr of rhc ••u•••
mrnct w be boJlcd off at'tcr wca•. tng Tht' proccs:.
pn1ducc :t ~ch'Ct [C..'\tlli"Cd surhtCCSIIIliJar to d1c fccJ of'
Jrh.lcnr madclt•r
rt: M\HE \n Qld fa!ihionl d tte'rm for casual ~hoc.'i
"rth tlHI.k ~;:rcpc nabbcr ~olc'i
<.rl "'i \..ll 8 ( HJ Tht" ch~d: wasorrgrn~ll} The
K.
( o1gach from thi' Clbpool •Jre.t m th~ wesr of cml . md
\t nmund 18-4. h \\i:t5 nclopted b. an .\mcrtcan
~hootmg dub ..ts rhetr lwl:ry and the n.1mc changed Its
W.\R I' ..utd WEfT ttre gcncCIII} arr..mgcd in rhrcc colors
:~nd \\,men In .a l'.\0 up f\\O dm-.n rwtll. An .~en d1cck
p~ncm \\olth row nf altcrn.mng coloro; and, uo;unll) n
\\h tl" background l 'rd tor sumngs sport ,.tckct!i and
trou t:N (c;a ]tntrll) Stewart page LS9)
{,l N FI .... r 'rigmalh, :m t· rrr.a thid.ncs<; of r.1bric
.tdded ro llt'tJtrjiJzc du: 1mpaa of.J shotgun~ recoil on
the hoqrmg iad d t~houldcr Nownd.t)S It 1 .Iddccl a.:
1m ph as .a ...!cn,ratt..·c ti. otrttre
r{ "U TAl \ d.uk gray r;hadc. stmilar to th~ ,h.u:.i,• or'
cl c nu. r.U f ~ gun b:trrd
bL S)f r \ fahrrr M'rtton m~crtcd .u the !fC.:trn of n
&J1TT1cnr to til " L"Xtr:l fuilnl:" forc..t.'S} muv\!rnent and
n ~ nc· ac :.1 rt'tnf"'lrCs.."Dll"nt \ho :m cxna l.t)Cfor
p c f cltd m rrcd 11t rhc borwm J tmng oi ~ lurr·~
!ird ">C;un L r rernfor· m m fnt• U<;e of tJtc gu •t, a
·mb.~ ,f htgher qualm, 11lurr makmg AI~ ) the c ntcr
ccnon i \\ cll IT .1dc ru:d:tt~: t h:t:t go~ ~round the
l.u:k i th~ n I and UH.dc rncmh th ,_oil r JOimng the
from: bJ J t dt nell end
II 1\C~ IN~... 1 \t;._l 1"; "llxk" is !;hon for ~hucknc)."
dcs•gn:niu_t! .t --rtdtlll· hem;'-" il'r ordiTI:.tl') rond or lmdiC"
parh riding r.uhcr dmn for rncing ur hunung A
longer than r~gubr-ll'ngth tweed Jacket f(,r rrdutg :.1
lmr.;;c \\ ith 3 wa1st lmc r:ti~t:d n three ·c.1unncr inch ft~r
more "'spring" or llaJc ut the hip ro >~IIO\\ for\\ 1ddt
\\hen sitt mg .1 ~uide :t hor:sc, ,1 deep ccntcn ~;: nt to open
ll\ 1.'1" rhc.• huN' (the original!i had \v:tterproufcd tntl
Jinrng). thn•<.•- nr iOur buttnu from \\o~th siH1TI lapd..,
and .slamt:J ,jde O.tp po~kcts(wtt!J Or'\\tdHJut n .;l:tlltr.:d
t iLkct pnck~t) J:,r C:i"} :u:cc<.~ The h.tcking stlhoucm•
£n':ltl} iniltll!lh.Xd rile ~-ut urlugh dass f nglislt
t.ulur111g (Su p:tgL! 1OR)
GL 'J:ot •
11.'\t;._I:-:G roc"rr ,\ htp·lcq•J flup po•:kct .u dt(• :-.idt• of
.t ~pon r:H:kcr thal i!> sl:tmcd or cut 011 !l an .mgle..1~ '\\ trh
the Jbp pn~-kl'ts ou .t hacking j:Jckc[. {Sa p:tg..· 88 top)
f I,\ I RCLUlll· 1\ stiJ{ wit'} f.1bric Usll;lll) mndc uf a
couon or linen in lhl· WAH.I' aml f~.:,nncrlr hor.sch:ur (uc
in rhe horse's JnJJlc) in the: rtLLI.NG .lS .111 imctlamng
or .sriffc..•nm!! mar..:rial. Tc.1c.hy, mohnir ol" forme; {tf
hur-.eh.tir an· tt_,cd in the filling.
II '\I Rl.l N£ STRIPES· \ C:l") llllHO\\ stripes in one rhrcad
Lhack11e.s:-. rh:u resemble IUlirmadc brwca\ingsinglc
threads in color to wntrnst with the b.td.grow1d ... of
\\llrstt·d WOl•l or corron shirung !\lore '-limcn.,tonal
th.m a 'oliJ. tlu: tlnl.· [1ncr li11cs :;cr uff rhl· \\ cm·e1 a
\H!II as gi' Lug ltim a $liglulr dangatcd l'lli·'t (s,·,· ~ hirt
l~lhric~" ~.ttcfult.l; p;tg~ ''' bNttJilt;)
J Lur UACK· t\ rtwasun.:mcm acrus~ tltl' widc:-.r pan of
the jackc1':; bl.aJ"' (rom rlu: ba~k (Ctll£'t sl'um £11th('
puin1 whcrt• rhc :.lccve"s back St'Uill1!1H'r"C\7ts the
armhole.
II '1 1 ·.st 1 EYl: rhl' slc~·,·e of;~ slurt or- oahcr g.tnm•nr
cxtcndmg .lpprl1Xi m.uel} 10 rlw c Ibl >\\ (.:-u tht! Duke of
\Yiudsor. p:1gc 76)
tfALF WAIST!\ tllC:J.~tlr~nlCill t.tkcn at dn·w;uo;rJmc
from thl' J·•ckct':~ hack cents:r ~!.!am to the coat" from
cdg..·
HAlF \VJNn OJL A kuot brger tlt.m 1hc.· four rn hand
but sm<tllcr dutn .t full \Vim:J,or: ttcd in the manner of
a loci. knta ''r!l paru.tlluii-\Vmdsur ktwt
IIANI'I liANIH.L 'Thcwud•u• fecf<,faf;tbn-.. \n
c;.;pcaten"t'd tndi\'idual c.m dcrerrmttc th~ (pJUI•t) nnd
ch rmuc-1 of a fabnc h~ lmudlmg. pnll111!t· w·0kmg or
~t]ttcezmg tt
I IAN I> nt OCK.I n ·nn-: term .tppltcd m rnatl"nnl pnrncd
b,• hnud "1tl1 11 \\O-:~dcn or .t wood ~111d metal blo~k
I IAN ltNCKI P rite tcnn ·•l'pltnl to lt:md M·hclung al
the <>dgt•c of 3 jackt"t l.tpcl vent pttckN ot t rou cr
.nus 1lu: ~·xp.:'ctccl Bm~hutg fur top qu.llll) tlalort d
dothcs (~u page 2t;)
II!\NL1 ROLJ 1 n HIM l11ec:dg~of.t handkc.:rdurfor
orhcr arttdr rollc·d und tJtL..h~d b) band In o1 nccktt(;
1he c ndc: u:~:;: fol ...icd tutder a~-,ut a qu;>tnt>r i Ill h .tnd
Stttdh:d h) h.1nd producmg n oft mil off.tbnc ltdd b
&rn:gu1. r sutclh' • found only on h1gh qunlir., nc~kt
 II \1 l)W • n 1 N \\~Well ()J1 .1 lot •Ill 6per.1h d h\ hand
ami four I he firu,.;hcd fabm:.. sud1 as a !1o\ccd ur
lmmc'>pun h•• . , IITC'gul:umc, th:n t.•nh:mcc tl..
nuth~m•c•t) nddmg ~ har.:tctL"r:.tnd appcJI
II RM<JN1 llu:: plc.a!'lllg cfTl!cr JdllC\ cd b) tltc propL"r
n lnt •on shtp bt'l ween aud courd m.u hill of C'ul01~
f.tslunn dct.ld" .md .t(~oswu•., m the :u !inmhlag~ nl
•
,"111~ 1> .Ht m:
II \ltNI ~ 1 he iramc on a loum thar ts r.us~d ro
'it'p.tr.uc rile WARJ' fHlm the 1 Ill IN{. prn~> ro .11Im\ th\:
slnlldt.• w p.1-..., bct\\CCil tluun There .It'"' .Hil'.t'it tv.o
h.trncssc~ un .1 lnnn1 ~lore dabor:nc \W.l\'t); I'('{!Ulrc
)nr '"Nl. mnrc hn•nt·~sc• • tiH' c.x:nnpl,· ;t b.r,r.. cy,• lon•n 1C<jtlll t"S
M'\ N iour harn~.;sc.~
fU
ll...ruus 1\\ IJ.n Ill\• rradcnwrkot\\lnJicnlll.lh'tl.ll
"f1Ull, drcd .Uld \\'(Wr.,!O b) hand hy fltl' cmr~l'I'.S of
I Ism·•, nnd I P\\ is nnd ••d11:r ~~l.wJ:. ~)r dw Outer
llchnd~" islnnd:; of ~.:-ndanJ.
II \1 IICI\\ , . 'Ibd~'· tile fc.nh~n· l1kt.• bow on rlw hat's
J •
msJCic.. 1 holdm·~r from rhe :~.ncicm dr.m:otnng rhat
nr
mt•d Ill tltP hat tJgJH Oil the hc:~._f ~len'~ hat bo\\S
areal\\a)c; \\Orn ou tht.·lcft ~idcofLhc hnr a remmd.:r
of the d.tp \\hen till" plume or lr)\ c rokl'll \\ a1> "nm on
tlw heart ~l ..lt• for 1(\\ ~. nnJ awH) li·om rhe SWllrJ "ide
f(lr .. nfet}
-----------------------
,\~, Rl ' LI. nr· -rrrv~tn:
Cft1thl':' lh11t £1J'C IOOirendy tli"C dcstint'd (0
bctOIJlc old bt)~>n: 1heir tfmc. Toda)' 's pencoch is
/OJHOJT01t' 's j'elllhcr duster. - Hn.>t1hs Brothers
- IN -uu: TlK' foundnuon
llfAD Ft1ltWARD. \Vht.•n a human figure\ head i'}
earned tom .trd slighd) fmu1 the normal Tlu~ 11'-'tltlllr
require.:; an .Jit('r:nion llf "horrenmg the p(k!!t's colbr
:tnd :t 'lighr incrca~e 111 ils bJck li>ngth
II EM. The llnish pru,fuccd hy turning b:.1d. rhe r<l\\
c.•dg<' of a m:ut.:ri.JI :md :-c'' iHg it br hand or mac hull'.
III JUUNGIJO.Nr A ribbed rwill \\e;l\t' in \\hll·h ;m
cqualmnnb\.'r ,,f rhrcads ~l.nH right and kft to 1{'1'111 .1
:tigt..;tg p.llt 1't'J1 :>imibr t.l rha1 Ll(a fish\ skdt:t,~n
(Nc1rr h J\ 1111.: nc:m lluriug). A puptil.t r d"·~•gn tor
clmhing ~111d ac~·co;soril's (Sa Bubb) ~horr p.1gc I ~.:t)
J IJ~...II tusr. Su H.I'-'L
J II Gil 'iHOUlnt It\, ,\ fipurc with ...houldcrs "hu~c
squ::t I'Cih'ss 1S greater than the norm.
ll&GJ 1- W...,\ n R I' \Nl s Jlams th:u r~••ch on I) tu :t pmnt
~ltghtlr :1bm c t ht: ankles
1ll) llllJJtl. \fa•·m:1l luuking snfr felt h.u \\ nh u
t •• percJ crm\ n .md :t rollcA.~ boun~l edge.· bnm In hla.:-k
nr d.trk blue 11111.1) b~..· \\l)rn \\ith .1 dinnl r j:tckct m
1,1th~.: t
lurs \\ nl1 J hu inc o;uJt a
Cl l
King I d\\ rd \11 ,-Jm brought n b
W I o ndnn a ;m nhcrn:nJ\ e fonn;J t '' n h t l <.~tt r
popul:mt.cd Ut tl c- 11.)-JO;, b.. Bntnh ~ Tt. gn rn.1n
(I ru smmr 1111111 u-r) \ml!Ofl} ldrn (~a p~~~ ' 1 1
I IOP\AC:l Ungmall ..1
lNG I " 1 ~:n 1 rrlap (;iffi
b} thl' prd:cn of bop~ ..1 gc n -raJ dt nJ u t ,f ~
luo t•l > \\ n u falm, n~d~.: m .1 b. ili ' ur i r I l'a\
1\\o tltrr•.ui.; ufbmh \\ U I nu \\:ARI n t 'th r
mstt.:a..l of mtl} one u mg rough t • turs>d .m1 J uurl
in :.utung Jac:kc•tmg, and othrr "Pf n. c: r
J IOl "ND.c> I Ol.lTJI UHCJ;. \ mrdmm t • cb .J
p:ttte.nt \\JUl JDggcd eJg ., rt 'lt"mhl111g th 1 e ol dug
rootl1 and 1s not pl"rfcul) quar£< (St't' 1:~g\: 1 ,
I it Dl.lll RS TJf I n .\ fO\\ n 111 'orl ~urc [ ngl .d rlt.:l 1
tlh• cemer of th~ 1 cncr Brirt"Sh \\it.r'\too h un
mdu'>r 'l
IIUD'tUN UAl <OAT '\ doul fe- brc.~ctt.od. \H t. I n
ou tcrro::~r 111 ''hire or v1T whnt.• "uh m r thn ~:
\\ sdc colortul huriz<Jnt.JI 5trrpe.-. amunrlthc h \\ r part
II UN rIll G REJ. N A deep o;hru:fc ui green v. J th L1 nt
}ello\\ •~h c.ru.t
Ill.: NUNC.. l'lNI-i. Nut m:tuall~ pml. but ':iUftt:nh Jr
of !\C;trlcl <. )rigmalf) all [ng!.'!.h huuung raghb
b(•longed ao rhe kmg nnd those t:akmg p rt 111 a hum
h:1d ro W(:;lf the kmg\ lwC'n \\Inch \\a.! '-•1rlct I 1e
.lllthcHtJC huntmg piuk dn· '" &ud tu t: lffit: fr.om n p o;tc.·
111.ule up of malt en nus bcctiD. mtxed \\ tth tm tn aad
IN!.,.\ 1 :s ·rh'-' t!\'lr:J cloth lei1 m $c.:tm "Ju, h en.thlt:
e11fnr.gcmt.'nt. ornettnw' ailed nmlt'tt~
I ~st A 'I\I ., he distilnce m mclk~ from tht" aot h i~t
forL w the bl1ttom oft he t rous~rs \L\:0 cant on a
glon· ti1Jt i~ sewn ia!tidc out
Jf the ~h~.•c a p1ccc ofle: the:r
ben' ecn one L~nth :md •me L\ utth ot n ntch tlud
cut to conform cxnctl) ff' the 1zr- and lupc ot thL
bouom of the LA.,,.
of th~ "hoc .\)o;<1 th p.m t the
!<h~ between tihc '' El.T .md the outo;ulc
I "'~1"1!1' The bnd2c mer the tnp .of the foot
rrotn the )ralt6111 rerm for rnt~ntart. In umg
[ S 1A R I !!t.
"utl:t) .. !\ knmcd d!'"'S" Lhat g•w the cffi•l.f oflx mg
inlntd in rhc l~httcwttltttl> p:mern m '01tdcoiLlrs,
.'thO\\ Ill~ Oil ~_-loth ,}Jl!:~ or tJn• iabnc
doth llf ntJh.'ll.tf o; \\'11 her" 'Cll rh
IN 1 1 IU LNT ,'\G. A
btx-h r~bric cl:tgannou and the expa,t..-d lmut~ utstdt•
•
fi,r sulfnCS! "'
"hnpc 'L
or I 110\ ant1. ·w h _;
.1 t e pllYil' w
m:u~n:tf nm I oftell WP\ J Dr al \\\')OJ hJcnd f~und
instdr the.' ~tndopc ofthl' ric ro £1'C ll bulk .and i)nru~
INTF:RLOC~ tcnn appherl u1 ad "t'h kmncd t bn
,\
produ\:·cd on :1 circular 1ulllung mnduur. lmcJ "nh
long :md short n~"':dlc:.
.
1:--.1\ E.RJ.;I. s \ H.mn ~..·mbnd wht<n
in nonlm .t
rcrnpcr.nurc<. dL'm.'lnd w:arm pnnL nts Tht> ~ Jt I dut
n:uue j,. a s.~ngiC"" brea.o;u:d. ~IC'\.~C~ (o:lt '\: Ut pc.a cd r
not du-d lapel .md .m :u~ht•d Collpc '-':~.t ndm!! Tl' thl"
c1 bt,-.w,; n prmci:uon LO the ann!> .. n.t upprr ~d In
 t\\~'\.>th u '' J a fn\nnh: of thl• \ ICtnri.tn tr:n clcr In
Lbrk omtOilfh fubnL"' n mct.lmorphe.~c~ uao nn dL·gant
t~nJUl at.tt I ilrc the DEER: T \t.kfR. tt b .d o
po...-ryphall .lSSOCJ:u~.:d '' ntt h.:rlock llolrnc
l:-o\ tR1 fD rLL>\f A pll".tt \\ith fullnt on tht: mcotd~
du: m~n:e of 1 ho.x pl .. at (S« G fitzp.unck s brcoJ.s!
pock<'! pag~ ro-)
IRilli'>C~\..E. The rmrupb or rctlc.:no.n of nutltJpk•
~..·nl,u .mmnl-d b\ u.Jng .t \.lncn of ...ol..>r.i m the " \ R I'
.mJ 11 u 1NG 1,.1f a fabnc (~'I' Gnl'} Cbopcr\ uc page ~ S)
h l r M .. L r 1\Jtothcr rcnn f(,r t\mntcn\ naturnl-
,ft utdcr f.!shron L,rc:u 1li)O, .t:. popul:m1.~d b) Bmt.,ks
1\rother~ Jnd ftmntf un . \ mcri.;.a '.s h'} L.:ague college
~mpu cS \ kmd ..,f ~mr in whtch rhe j:~t:kcr h.t~
n..Hur.tl \\ tddt houldt rs '" rnughr h:mgmg.•tn,l h.lS .t
LL.!Dtl'r n:m Tnt.• trou.:oers .UI.' piJin rrom .md qraiglll ..
hangmg nude\\ lthcmr l'L[AT' 31 f11t: WAISTU \ D
I \.SllT ()ngtn.tlh a ruffie on the bo~om t'f a m:lll·,
Jun .1 nf oi ned.:l\t:ar for fommhn·ar "tth n
nt:db.md nnd ruffic., hclo'\ u
h Q.l o\RO amcd .Ifit:r joq:pb ~ l:tril' Jacquard n
r rcndmun bom an 1~'OilS. \\-ho In 1~01, imcntcd .1 lonm
th It u;;.....J punL-h~d CJrd-: ro \\t.~a\e ~mcrn" 10 dmh
pul n 111\'ltcd lum w P:lns ttl detllllll.:otr:'ltr.: it. and b)
t •)6 the:- I "'tn \\.tS p;arcntcd To&n laCC}uard h .1 rcrm
J to Jcsai~ m} mottf p&Jttcm or inmcarclrwovcn
I:Wnc: lrom rnpt·~m ;Ind brocade to cl.unn ..k .md knn~
l\M \H "\ HORn ',honsen,lmg.+u nm.l dugh. shorter
rhan nl:HMUfJA (,H('RT::t ~mncd fmt· the sn·lc ,,j •liNts
•
(! un I on the tslJnJ of ltm:.uca m rhl' 19.!0'1
J\ I'( \ nc.:k\1-t..'.tr fobnc \\110 an arr<mgcmcnt oiilue
fi nncd b) ltght mcd1um and dnrk haclcs "rn
s(\ n I r
IF \~ 1\ ~fT \ \\.11 t length Jac.k<'f at den rm or otltcr
n 11l tton \\lth p;aocl sut-chmg and chest bctght
P tLh pOd> 1$_
JrR"l 1 r 11 \. kmucd f.tbri.: made from h-'p\ rll:u
fl
tnt nne ...It 111 unc dtrl.s..'"t"ton \\ tth the result that the
[ hnL fu, 1 pp r.mrc un the i'.!~::...: ~ldl· .md a\\ !toll}
dtfli r m rtt· n the rc' <-'T e 'itdc m.1dC' of wool cotton,
'IT hi nd offtbc.·rs: for s!un~ c;portswcar: :tth:l
mdcN ·ar h dcnn• n" name from lhc ,,.f:tnd C~fJcr~cy
h n.· .ulu Jar t\\nrt: ~t''lttnnnadcoftltt~ inbnc
Jf·n f Sa 8E'i{i~f rf'(' In tJI\: f rem:h jrttr. lO ltu,lt
• mCI\l!rll'('d ctlrton )'nrn
ti1rth ut tn throw ut Th\! tnrlor ~ \\urd "tctrtng
tnl .ut t b~.: 1d t'T prpc dat h t r otltcr tn:.ttci'J.J! .n
r ·J.. 1~ m h \\ln,g th Jrt.>dgc Jct:rmg.'l m.l) l•t
pi m
l,u H p \\t"ff olt UOtn tf pu.:-kcr mouth~
\Vlw:n I' d' n •th td dtt' p tcr 1'1 t~rmcd
d uhl h m1 1r duubk JCttcJ (St·~ p.tgc.· 8b )
}1 ,, t R El r r ' \ n.un gt .. '11 bz t;ulur t(l thr.-
hu n pl;a l d u 1d th• l.dt fl1n.:p;.trt ol a man
I br: ~ted .u r w;u tcn.1r o .t t , keep tlu:
J rtf.'.Jth r p fmm ~..imppmg d v.m,Jrd
rJ'1J\ :\ n n m 1 trt ··ut ~ palm1tl•.e rrcc th I{ .t\c
f luc 1 IJ fth d tt tre pl.utcJ rnt , h 1t In \\ n
as Pun,unu h:u' i\1-o, n bro:td bnrmned pbntcr f. ~t}lt"
of hat
ll\'1 In \ n:trru\\ .-.lumldcrcJ smglt• brcao;u:d J.ad.ct
wnh .1 four bunon fium .1nd snug iimng paut an)
garml'nr or dressing St) lc tending m p.arod) b)
C\::Jt'''Cr.ltlon
oc- the In• lc::tguc
~
lntlk.
Jomr PUR. BOOT .\ lo~ ll'ath,·r bont "Hit a strap and
buckk·l:t tcncr or clnstic ,jd~ for '•' cnr c!ipt'C'I31l) "ah
lc:HH!I'UR\ {<lt:L' page q.)
In P 1rl't.: K~. 1ong ri,ling truuscr.s t1:u"·d owr 1he lup.s nnd
lllll'h'\\li·om knc\.' ttl .mklc. llr.;t ~l'l'll 111 f:11gl:tml wltc>ro.:
1 her ''err· ;t~'propt·tat~J frmH the: :ji .HL' o( Jv~l hptt r. In,Ita
Gtv 'i
whnsl: loc.1IS' J:n ured rhcm over tlu.· snJ;'lrl('J:. but more
e rrort (()Jl'ollrning, brt!£'chc.... nnJ r~ li.!".ltrtl k";lt her ri.lmg
hom~. (~r·~ r.Jgc: 4. uppt:-r nglu picrum)
Klr ~KJ· t\ llmdi- UrJu \\Ord mt·.aning Mdu~q .. or
'\:.mh-(olt,rcd .. Th~ firs! khak1 (11lor~d dnth \\J."i
so.tkcd in mud and trNlc:,i ,lrr Khaki h::t:. conw to refer
ro bro\\ 11 £'''11.·'' and oll\ t: t1m~. \\ hach 1mlir ..1~ ior~cs
h,t\e ltntnd ucoc-fulln reducing\ ''ihilit) .tg.uno:t ground
and folt.tgc lu the nmt.•[cemh ccntun. the Brrttsh tn
I ndt•l "ore rhe firsr khaki u111fnrms.
K1LTII •\ sh.m I tougue of iflllgcd lc.1t hcrthnt L'- drnpt·d
c.wcr rhc ino;rcp ,,rJ shoe, cmering tltt•lacc." :md t1'Cict
wadc-wid!h twckuc dwl bccum"·
k:IPI'I.n. A
hbllJ(wahk· in the :o.i).;tics th:lllh LO ;\Jidud Ftsh l'h<.'
hu, a of the f.1nH'~u~ Jt-nm n rrcct ~lunmJkt·r tn
I •
l.undon, Titrnbull aud Ass\:'r. Th~ ~LI~.'llClllJ' "hl't her
dJc moniker came from ~ l r. F1:~h\ n:tme nr rhc tn!"
~ltapr! 1 ' \ ltkh rl'"l'tnblcd a "ktppct·" ll;,h
K.NI E "1 ht• knn· mca~urerncrtt llf,l rrou::;er.. wht h 1.
<1Ch'fl11ll1Cd U) hah utg Its i n'>eam and dtt'll mc.t ~tt rmg
t\m m\;h.:s nbuv<' rhc resulung fold lwe
KNICKER~ K.NICKLIUH.)CI...l~R • Loose p.mtc: dr.ap~d
met the knee .md fa rcncd \\ tth :a band :md bu"l.le
nbo\c dt~..• ~al( onginallr wt'm tor golf and then nthcr
"ports 111~ n:unc cClm~ from D&cdnch Kmckcrbt"Ck,•r
ficriuous-:lUthorof \I IiS1n'1 ~(l\'n" York (actual!~ \Hilh:n
b) \:\a.~hHlgtoll I rnng) rJu, rour<. arc- lull CUt ~Uli\;ker;
t h31 pnudll'd fo11r inches bdol\ the knee· plus rwns .md
plu · c•glu~ were Jcs~·nhC'd ..IC('ordlllgl} ~"il'r J).lgc u6)
l..A LO~ n STI 1Ct 1 \ cross w~:k ron:>t run it'll" u h
:thcnmtc plnln Jt.:n:e) cour.:.(·~ prc.duc~d uu J fine cut
tnnchine Used prun ml~ fm kntt spoq \I11T't ni
I AMn 'i \\~.'(ll The mrnen.tlmndl' of!Jbcr ~horn
li •m l.tmb.. np to monrh!' old 1 ht' fiht rs ,IJ"C' ,oft
, H'll
.tud h.t\C "Upcrwr spmnutg prf'pcruc-.
L-\PLL I h~ f.1cmg oi :t J:t...kct ur coat tnmt th.tt p.trl<..'l
;11ackct or rn;u front JOllied\\ tth tl1c coiiJr th.rt '"\\Urn
turned I a~k
1 \I'PUI JAM \ wclkd clrulhcpnmotm~rd t·un
mad b) pte \ltlg tfu: C.:Jnl to 00(' ..Ide lb ' " 0 l dgero
I tng l.:tppcd m •r t ..tclt other .111d firusltl•d btt .1 row of
l 1p tu"h··., of' tr} rng \\ idth ~\\ u cn:het b) Imud ur
nu lunc If tl1c bp c.:.un ts ldr op~n and nm sut h£'\i
UOWil Us C.11Jr.: ._j lll .. Opt.'ll lap t! IIH J'Jw, sc.ltn J f!Ufing
 rt·n~h·t the odd ).iCkct ur tY•Juscr mOri! ~prJrf) (See
llt"•n11 FonJn, page 106. I tumphrt1 Bogan p~gc 1~0)
L1\Sl A lorm of Wc)Od or metal !)luped likt.- 01 rOOt 0\ er
\\luch a <:hoc I" f-as.hioncd In llESJ'O~l :;hocma.bng. cl
pJirofindtvtdualln'>LS 1s hand carved b} a :o.pccialla!tt
m.1kcr from bl·ech, maple. or bc.am wood into a
prectscl) comour\.d f~lt:..(umlc of the Ot\rotm·r :t ftact
protnlSlOllS, indl·ntations and nil The utlc chm:cn for
tlw book\\ rut en on clw lift.: of john Lobh tile lcgcndJf)
t .ugl•sh bonnnaki~.r hears 3 pun 1111~ l.iUt Onnr.s.l rrst
l AWr, Origiu:.t.ll) fr\)lll tht! dry C,ll Lton. r ranee :t
hr dtc:" dcrg}' .,,It"
J:1brJC USCd ({ll gntllll'IJI:S WOrn
) Iu:s l.l'H.• prcscHt d.t)' bwn is n ligluwl.light nm'''' ut Imen fitbli\.
ur:~I\V uf t hc- b~u~r gmdc, usu.1!1) mn~ic of ~·ombl!d Ntmn
prn :llld gi\'CII a pol[•;Ju~cl ..-;urfac~.·
Lf. :;:o.~ahiNG. Set• 1'UXEDO.
Ll n •\ Sl'lll i.uu om a tic mac him· LhaL f\.'pr•ld uco.s hnnd
sltp•stitching in ncd:nt! mnnufacnarl!
lJGNE; Unir of I r('nch origin. equal ro 1 11 in<"h, used u1
mc.t:-uring d!l" width of hat b:.mds an"l bindings ufhats.
LINE.; The swnd:ud l~lr me.tsudng buttons; the t:\'lclfth
p:trt of an md1. (.S~·calm LJGNt )
Lt NE:N. A strong. lustrou~ rarn or lnbric oi smooth-
suri.tcL'U llax f.1.brk:. thaL ,-.;·nnl:h.!!'i casilr Tht.: fiber is
actually llax. Menri01wd in the Bible, linen was \\0\l?rt
tnL•f(' than four tlll>liS:tnd years ng~o1
I.ININGS (~110r:) UscJ to rL'inforcc ;md ;tb:.orb
pt!r<:pil':Hi~n. afford ~1 smooth fit w rhl~ in~1dc of tlw
~hoe .md 11.J hdp 11 rctam tts shape. MaLcrials Cor
linings :He lenrher on all bett~,;r grade~ of fchHWc.lr.
l.l:-:I{.S-M-IH- l.lNK.S. The term <1pplied 10 ;t r:mern or
purl or t:'lllC} -knirring sritdk·s produccll on n "J'l'l in I
mndtinc known a:\ alinks-and-linb machine th:lt knit"
\'enically r:uhcr rhan horizonrallr. This i~ the stitch
used fN alpac.r golf-rypc ~\\L'nt\!r:s (s,·,· alpacn \'CSL.
page 163)
LISU · \ fincqualiry of riglulr twil.ted.long swpk
couon )r:trn that is passed near a ga:- ll:unc tL) rcrnll' c
tht> fu:t.z and gin• it a sleek .!'urfac~. Original!) IISl'd m
hosicl)~ now nscd for fin(' knit ~him•. lr i!'i "o ca~lt:>d
bcc;m~e it W'~1s fina made in Lisle (now I.Jilc). I ranee.
LOAr'JJR: A brrmd n:1me of a mocc.1~in -!o.t)'lc ~lip · on
shoe \\'it h a broaclllar heel registered Llr Ncul<"mll
"hops, Inc (sc,, p:tgc .2tl3)
l!)DEN! 'Tht! oli\'c grt:I.'JI of the Au~trian "l}·rol. which
urig&n:ul!d in the sixrct·nrh cunwry Tlw p~o•n:.!lllt .. \\IHl
first m.1dc t hi:- grt.:en ::.IMdc of doth in dw .
m•lllnt:tiuous Jist net \\ere c~llt:J Lodl·rc r.:-o, lnomr ng
the materml from the rough and oil)' won! of the arc:t•!\
mountain sh~;cp. Bl.'ncr lod~n doth t'frcn ha~ some
c.1md hair tn it and i!' \\"atet prol'lf wirlh.mt being
treah:d chemi~-:.'llly.
1unrN c0 T. 1 he f.·l\oritl! co:1t of tltl~ Eump~an "h')
League." A mglc hrc:t!-Leti co:tt with a butmwthro11gh
front~ milit.try <tJII:u·. chest yola·. l:tslt pod:l'tS. ,ic"p
imt rrcd plc.m m back and n:;pednllr stitdtcd 'l'l 111
shoulder' dcsigu fc:uuring an l.,p~·ning in th\.·lO\\crr.tn
~----
of the nmtholt foncnn1ation ::and mam-u\er It il.:
madt• from D St•fr fleece..: fabru: nngmoo~ung tn Aur.ma (
narm sho\\er--proof ltghtY.'CJglu fo~t grc n lodt..'tl
doth \\om b) pummcn fmmrhc 1\ 1 f. r e::~ra for
walking. shooung ;;mJ dmlllg,
LONUO~ SU.Hl N~ fhe bntJkng(; ofcl th II tfu r Lid
uater method in ordcrm pmcm shnnb,ge nd re;Idt
m b em up. 11u.· diJ doth to bt' ~hruJJ.l. 1 Jilld~:t.i
bcm L"en an upper and low~r Ia} rr of' ~ dath a.hrn
dncd naturall} Jlnd n.fu:rward prc~ti ln LalJ ll)Jr; ultr
PQ\\cr 011tgmall) a01o:rblureclorll\,';;lf\" md \\flU
London mcrchanq; m be submmcd ID-.l cnrm trm
mcrhod of "hrinb~ e:ontro1 NOVo .uJ:n thr t~hmquc 1
:l(tplac•d u~>ualh· at the :.<.>at of prothJL n( n hur rhc u nn
London £hrunk" rc.m:ttu;; a widd) accs.•pu;d o;mndatd
LoNe. fRONT llAI.ANCF An excei's ofiC"ngth m riw
from b;~lancc ofgamtem ~u.sc!. gannent to nppc;u- full
<11 fronr -cr.ens:c edge "hen buttoned. :1. dcfca common
on clothes \mm by 'to.~opmg figure
LoN& NfCK. A neddu11.: dun rcquarc ~ luglu.•r
placement of collar (Sr.i" page 125 )
LONu-nOLL C:OIJ..I\Il A. hm rollar set lu\\ 111 fmnt
\\ith point~ four inchr long and adt:quat..: fullne5!> 1:
permit 3 rolled effect
l Ol'll' 1 NG: The hand fru;tC"ning of S\\t"atcr !tcatnl; rn
high qU!l.liq :>\\t:atcrs; al-a .doni! ou a lo p111g lllilt'htnc
m simul.ne n handmade :1ppear.mcr.
LOUNGf :-.UfT• ·n1e e.u'l} n:Jml' giH~n ro :.t ACJ I.e IT
with siuglc- ()f dotthle-brcasrcd J:~d:et sn soft f.1imc for
busines~ wear.
I.OVAT. 1:tmL·d a(tt"r Lord.l.O\dl of~otlnnd who
prd.~:rrcu blend~ ofhaz) blue soft grec.n nd t.1n and
gtn}. sugg~.-'~"'Ting du= lh·athiTCd mne<i found an the
l:andsc:~p,• of the Highbnd
l.t)W-SWPE COllAR The upper Jane of:m Jttuciloo
..·olbr th.tt h:ts a forward <;lope .md .J lcm n~tk band
c~u shirt coJbr in tllu t:r.:mon pJgc 49 )
~1ACCLI.:<:f IEl.D Sa pages 14- 49
fo.tACI\:INAW' Arype ofhe.a\l napped\\ JoJ bbnl:cr m
big ~rripcs orchccb used 1.0 bancnnth du: .ttn~
ArnC'rk:m lndiau" around Fon Mndcin2\\ • hdugan
·nll· bJ.ml.:ct. m:uainl was al. o turned mro coat for
lumbt·r[ach. Tl1e ryptcal cont was dC'nblc br~a.,tLod lit a
ilng~o·nip length" ith shawl ~oll.u :md an cl!
arounJ
bdt that bcc4tmc knmHt.ts tlu~ ... M:rdnn:m
~lACK!!'-~ 0~11 The tertn U~('d rn tnglnnd tNln, fir
raincoar~ called a ...Mac -for bhon Ycaa ago it \\.1'1 •
term o[ten applied to rul) • hm~. blad: \\Jtt>rprouf
rain.::o:~r ln r823. Chadt:S Ma•lammh • .> \;l.tS!!OV.
.:-hcmiSt, patented :t medwd ofoondntg nw~r
he tween two l:t) crs ofcloth to m.Wt· th fim
\\-::ttC'rp.rooff~bm:
\lAD \~ A HA I I LR \ phro..q:o t1~t ..pp}Jt-d 111 l ';l r.n
\\ rlli.un I Ie.un MIHL'r. a f;unoul' Engh.h hanL£·" h
o;uffcrcd UJtsrrolc and \\em ll1911!' tls. r bemg c.:trried
bareheaded through the street!. of l ondnn on h~
dr..-~ttlln 10 the I Jowe ~)f Gammon$
 "\pring'' '" tl1c "Sua l.1bnrs l!<•tcfi.,ld J{r)lph L1un•n
, ...181! 9) )
Nl\1' I hl' fibrous I'Ut fnc~; g•\cn to .1 dcnh 111 ilmshmg
sud! liS n:wncl .md doeskin . . . urf.'l.::c flbl r:. an: ral ..ed U)
n'hll\ mg t.."'fllllden; C(\\ crcd \\1Ul metal poults or t<.•a.;cd
burrr.
AI'I'INv $u 1\Rl. ')IIIN{.
NAl I J \ b;~skct wcaH'
ofhc.I\ h'J cuu\tru~IUU
cmplo) mg M.'H·r.tl colors to nchtc\·t.> n pl'bblcd ciT~ct
ll"t'd 111 llt'Ck\\Car: Tlw word is I r\!nch .md n11.:.ans
.. bf:'ll J l.!d "
D1u: 1 ~~ NA'I't It'' 'llhJI ll)I: R Stt I\TJ llA .~n.•md P·•~c ~CJ
H M 11\'
\\\.. ) Ull t • \ .. \\t1rn 1f1 tbc Hriu-.h Nav). dtis d>lur IS
\ m uall) black
Nt:.A 1 .\ Tt'ltnuseJ in tht! nedml~ar rr:tdi.! fo1 rdernng
to a cO•l~,·r\,ltiH' tic p.mern \\ irh =-m.1llrcgular
flgurnuon ~'re page 1 )~)
NH ~H \ND 'H llt:r A :.hirt \\ ith a narrow bnnd ctrdmg
the neck and buttonhole... at tht• end~ d~~~igncd w be
:llt=trhcd LO .1 ~t>p~ll":llC Cl"">il:tr.
J:C h:ERCH II bwttcc.l or dr:ape~l in :.1 unt
r \ squ:'lrl."
fa.•d11on ar.1und t h\1u~ck usuallr madt· ofcoth>n. silk
Imen. or n wool- blend (Su· p.1g~ I6tJ)
N1 CKI RTII: (\ .~qunrt· folded and ~..lr.Jpcd around
the neck" ith the cuds Lied in :1 rot..:n- JN IIAN!l or
otlwr knN ;1J1d worn with ~n npen mxkl·d ... pun shin
It '' usual I) m.td'-· of cotton. <>ilk linen. or a wrml·
bf,~nd (.Set• p.tgc 169)
NrcK'JII : Tlw sL:ttJdard term tt!ied (M male n('ck\H!:tr
im111 ,unuud 1840 nnwnrd. ~upcr.seding dlf: word
"ncckdl'l h.-li.,fo or more thid:ncs:.~~ of 1:1brk 't'\\'11 in
:1 shaped scar( or band l~"'r w<>a r unJcr r ht• n >II a r fold or
4r'Onnd the- llt..X:k and knorrcd iu fr~.mr .
~ EH RU JAC~'"ET· .1\ ~ingle~brc::t~tcd
jnckcr oi shapelr
lines buuon!.'J high ro a --mnding-balld r~.lllnr, named
lor lnd m's former prim.: mini:.tcr Jnwall.lrlal Nehru.
NILTIJ{J\1.:. Tht.• tc.nn applied to color that mm.tins
none ol rlw primary colorl' l"nd) ed lint!n ;, on~
c:<.Jmpk·
t Htt 01 ~
J \~KL:'r:An informal jot..""k,:t wtth ;1 bliX plc-nr
at eac:h sid~, in irom. yoked. tWQ 1>imililr bux plt·:tr" in
b:~ck. and .111 all :tround hdt Cnnsiden·d the ilr~t "rnrt
1:1l·kcr
NonwrrJI nrsr populari7.cd b) l oudonl'l~ JlS: :t
\N;
c:t~11nl shoa. rhi, fm•IWL'~1rw:b lntcradoptt•d h} 'isrling
~lllL'rtl::tu~ in tht.· nud~thlrtic .... ·rwo tnot.h·ls bcr:HJW
pllpubr a sli p-cm mtlCt.oL"iu we ca:;ua.l t h.11 '' .ts t:".1llcd
.. ,, 1 f J UNS ":md :t lac.l.'~.l rnodd "uh ;1 <.pliL, Ioc dc . . ign
and morC.J'illl fronr 1hat ~t!.:amc kntn\ 11 3, the
Norwcw:m. Origin;~lly; NLlrwcgian ~hoc:. were h:md
sewn hr Norwegian i'ishcrm:ul~.luring thl!tr off ~t·ac:;on
{Sre pngc .: w.l)
'tl'p cullar: a la~wl ~t} lc fi,r s1ngle
Nl ')"J'CH l.AI'f L
brcasred coats fcarunng an ;~nglc b.:tpcd' pt:ning ur
step cffcn "at the puint when~ the collar of :1 jilckct
or com n•cct <; Lhc l:tpd (S~t! p:li!~ ~1. hottom)
N~ !\ kt\ut or t .. ngl m \ m pbn t: 1b J ..mt
H f
incrcllo.c-s or cl~cre-a~t."S uf tt:n ton dunnb the f lfl
proc.~.~ nubbc:d \.lm gtn• n trri"gular u-nt rc
labnc bUrt~ ·t
OJk~JdJI. Ongmall\ .'l~mtem m :i "-ttrpr r b
~com h ftihc:mum anh ~\c-r.tl oo:umgs c. f cruJc
lmo;ct d ml 1bda} a r.1mcoar m.:~dc t u ' n (abrrr
pmc\!s~rl \\+JUJ ro;mng; uf otl ( u LILkJ 1 )
01 1\ E A sf•ft tone ofgrttn \\"Jth ... hght \ 11 \\ h
c~ 1 It 1:~ that ot an unnpt; o] n c
( 'M lHU. \ J-rcuch rerm (rnl'dtuug" Judo\ 1 pphed
tQ :t fabm· dted unHJhn r11 a gr..1danon llf h:otde ("irr
R.1nduJph :1\cau's nt:, pagt! tfl)
A ro!l3fl.t;tbl, ~ugh h..1t "\\Jth a firm ~url ~
)l't.;IV. !tAT
brim fCJr f~mnal C\'~uing" L..-tr cmcrrd \\Hh Jull \IU ,r
otlu·r matd"i:tl
OJ'LRA l'CMI' 5o· pagt :!)I
01'11 tA 1 h._. hope of.t I'AN'AMA rotht:r tra\\ Jut
wHh a full crown and a ndgt' t"~tcndmg front .fi nr r
b:td (St't pageJ8!)
01 TOM!\ 4 OfTurl.tsh ongm . tt·~-rured d~ ~h \\ '' n
f.1hric of r.t1s.cd crusswt'>C 11ru m:.tdl" nr
aU· r mh~r
i.1hnc., u!'icd for nccl.wt>arand form.Jh,t:.Jr 6 mgs
OUNc fS I'I:R ''t:ARD One ofr\\0.3CC'-"Jll000l tpl!ltl n
for 1he "e1p,ln of.a clorh It ~;hnuld r~;~lh r ad a"
·-.)unce!l pt.!r lmcar ..rtrd... nnt pt•r c;qu;rre ;wJ
Ou rstAM The t:rr•tt:.t:r lr..:ngth nwASurtmlltt r 1('n
ir,Jm t h<' top uf dt~ wJmbnnd to the trouser b,ltturn
0\'1 RCOAT· \Vnrn1 outer gartnl-·nt frt ~mgl t1r
~1ouble hn~stt'd 't} le lw;~' ll r
than.1 topcoat Tht coat
c:1n be rmccd b:1.d: ro the 'iC\ cntcemh C<'ntUJl "hen
ancu:nt B1iwn mndedo wtth a ptc.:c• crf,, I doth
Lhnt doubled a.<> .1 mantle b) d;J} and a blanket b, rught
0\•ERJ'l.A m A pattern m \\ ruL"h il block hgurc rhuJ u
superimpn"c.d upon a :muller pl:ud r othc:r npe of
de-ign (S« l uct:mo B:~rber.J J:trkct I~St"-)
OXFORD UAG In n::t4-"lJOJl pinq the dmtnptpt:
tmuser leg'' orn b, Edw;~nl1am 0-d~ niL nt\t.Nr>
Mudcnt '' idenccl thL"'1r trou;;cr lcp- ~o tlmt W£'\
resembled a patr of deph.nnt s legs :\ltltt~ugh tlu·
f.1shiun for'"Oxfor-d ha!!- grnduall) Jtl'd nut lhi."' "l~
'' orn for ..omC' wnc on the golf courM farcnmt..nl .and
prl!hahh pbFd a roll! in the C"\ nm..tl dCJill!oC of plllli
fin1rs m f:a\ 01 ni LrolL~~s fm golf (~r:r J red 6uch:anJn
p:tgl' 112)
OxfORD N.11ncd tun.J ford lJm cNltl dIn'' .. h"
with t\', ormo1-c 11et. of <1lllt;"'i .. ~~,r l01c:~ mJdc Ill I ~l
JH,l t..lllR. or Gl u 1 r. "'} t~ (~c p.tgt" 191} \I ,, >1 r1un
or bn'ikCt \\ l-•a\•c .shirung 211 OlltoJJ faro rn•Ju, l!'({ b;
rlt•m1'h wc;aer.' "\\ hn h.1d nugr.atdd tl lnglan.:l t Ilu:
umc of thL: re' oc.arion of d1l· Ed1ct ,f ';tnl tn lhS~
1 he cloth ~imuLrres:. l} JX' ofb;.t!'let \h:<n \ rth a tlh
ph \\ARI' and .J bull-.1. rounded m H~t ~1u~l l JlliM·
\:Jrn oi \"-lu."ll "ILC to [ht- \\:ARI' \"ant Broub l\rmll n.
popubn:r.cd Lhc tJ.bnL in ns buttllll dm' 1 roll m ~I
bec.onnng l'\llC: oftltc sanun2l t\tlll., of th l'' nt 'tl
C".l!ntlln (set• rrcd \'ir.ntr~ p:t_gc ·~o)
 'f t-:.r1 h'R.n .\ J.rrk gtm MlJ.Jl of c~Jlun·ift d~d b) I'\ Ilk\ \ IJ,~ ~fl•J !.l'Jl dl~lh:d frorn tht• [ l;unu pJrk 1
t.Ung o.;:O un fU' 'pPrttt.; .. nfblr t~ht-d \\ l11tt..• ~ S" tl• 1:; llri!!tu.tll~ n \\ md bn·al.t·r ltl,t' g.tnn ·nt nit r • h.~~~
p ·nr) aud hlJ I. '-lh·d '\ oul<> ('lS t.• :-- ·r'" m) •\ r luo!.ch lrmn ! ht slmuldt.:r and shp owr rlu l11 .:..f r h
tgl ft. r Elf.! "~ gn ...·n rru·
u.tnk: l•l l..Imbndgr:: h\ \\.1\ .1 np~~r itt tlt~ datuJt4tnd .1 dt.t\\ '>lnng tw ~1 mmalh
t dJ ua ~Ur<thtrlf! tttn.uu Li'l;}~rd ~~~~ted b\ th mn\ll• uf .1 lrghNctgln m.1lt; n.tl
( tl 1r th wlors fL..tmbndgt: .m laf!IH
ur &h"mt}
(b <'l "hal..: tf 1 .. "f\. h.tnrd ..trl: J.ul {hlue) ( • tht.· P\..., J II \ 'Cl'} p~lt· ton,· uf .1 c(•lor
I[ f b • g;m.·f-.fd)
JJ\ Tr 11 It£ H 11.1 I pnd.d llllldl' b\ Utrhtng J pn:cr of
\
lll nR \hn fsth.·'iiM.k IIL-.tt•ft'~hrtc Ill <II c n:tl 0.1 t lht." nut ~•dc of .a g;, rnw rn '' ir h " r\\ 1r! •LH :t
PHJ t I hr rorUJ applr"1 to J t:\h} uuttnn
(ll ... MI )Of I
lbp. This (XJckct Jc..,i~n COJI\C\., ..1 ~J.!urn { L'iU111 nut.'n
(~« f>41J:!C H6)
r-L.r "ttlt d1e lo\\l!r burnm plt.cnl tbu\C till' \qtsliJII~'
JnJ th_ uppcdt rtt!Jn ct Jngh \\\.ln~ b\ th~ hor~t'\ !OCI l'r \ J h. KtT \ heu\1 dnuhl~;: brca..;tt.:d d.1rk blu
I th Jq1l o;; (&l p.tg \4) wu\.!IC'n j.h:k~''t '""·'rn hy !\:till)ts h ~it't •~c . . Jto.; n.un~ I rom
I'\ 1 I ,..,.t. 11 ttddltJOtl.IJ! ru~.. ,- of tabu.: {lf IJh; h tltt· l'>tnLh wnrd py· f\>r a h<. .w\ c.tl,t rs~ ' , ~..,len lll!lt~nJI
arJtctad~ f hl J;l\.(' or fl\ I p.trU~:UIJr m.tpt:• tO p:trt'i •'lf •l In thL· c:td) p.u1 c)f tht! uiur.r~~urh Lt:lltttry l.1lUnr
k t uu.-nr \I fred ,!'O.r"ill\, .1 E.sluon pcr"'~m.•ltt} g Jll_,lU,ght 111 tin
nun\\ uhc,ur .a ro.u illlU hnught u~h a rccfl·r Jl··k('t
P\J \n mrh...ttt" :tlJo,crdcsrgn '!>uggr.ung .1
l l
Hrlm~ pmt" "lltll pe~trc.·f'n \\(1\ en or pnrucd
from .t ~;:rilor. n,
the l<~~ns. It hnd hl!cmnc pupul.tr •n
tin: L:nnc.d \t..tt~~ ~md ~·rl-'ar Tlntdnl
r mHm thr pan em~ of \Hlulc.·n "'h.m Is m.tdl· ;n
lor I d.md (the hl\\n so n.tma.'li m \ tt"b,n:m l 'r \CliC"K R1 \ Oll1ll>i'li ~ <. \ ltNA 81 1)J RH r f hl
h r at t.._ '"" tan produa) 1 h ·..:c 'cLlrtt.'h "h.m 1<. 11.HJJC glh'll TO the CX1.1tJC COfl'lT~ .llld CCC'~IltTk do· ht'\
"' n an tum dd.tpt.I%1 lJh I .:-a-;It me.: re h.J\\ ~ oi of 1he 1q6w rh.n nmdr: men lol)k like p~: .kfltk... A tht
l r ur1 Jcn mon .-.ngmalh m.t.lc tn J.:ashrmr: lnc.ha popubra~ for uu;; d:tnJificd da~ph\ gn.: \\ trl~t..Uilt
In rh !Jt Nlt.h thl" pat.~ill' '"'-1 .1d.tptcd a pnnt kno\\ n .1" th,, 1'~1L'Ct.:k ikHlluuon
Jr. "S' ... tor nll."tl n~: ·fmc 1r ( u twck.nc pagt 3q)
J11 H.. E j') 1. ~PH ~ J.tpL•J nit (JTl Ml llfl\\ trd c:J.mt ~~ tnl11F,
o\J \ '\!' r he I·~ ntfl" lccnrh '"I.."'Cnlu.n repl.lC('Il)CJit t1• n poi11t nnd ll'aYlug ''"I)' it n.trnm ~pa'c.: hL't\\.:cn rl'tt:
,r d u gln·durr ill>Utt Cl.lJN:.cing ,,f.t butrun front or ~()ll:lr .uH.ll.1pd l!~u.•llr fimnd on \:ll.)ubll· bn.';~"tl'C.!
pt!flm ·r 1 rp ~ uh a Jr: JW tn"!! t~ rl.tsnc \\ us rband L"O:It:o bm somclllnt', in ~mgle hrc t~Hl.'J •"(l.l!s I ht~;,
f 1u l m td ufcuu 'lit. sail ur other t:il.mi:< prim.ml)
' '}k· v( t.11koJL l.1pd gr'OI!..o, stm' ur. fllll't tm.:l.ct.., .1 mun·
titr t~ Ill ~hut .11 'fitr {,1uttgmg J he \'-'prd 1 tJf fi HtltHtf d rl'SS} IDok. ~<.cr P•lgt• t<-t )
llmJr nrtg10 <t the !!annenu \\en.• bnmght u.h:k to
ln~l.wJ I rt. ·unnng munl:>e.r:; of dtL; BmJ'h ILJ f'ru. Ill ''lli ~f-rench phrase ntC'a:ttHtg km pJstll.. -
ddlnllt~pt flt,c, c\eu gr.11n nr lc.nhl.'rltl.i" surf:ll.:c 11ft,
r~t r Br ~ H lln U \ bmnd ufd •tit rt!~t~rcr~J
dull 4ll1t in) labn. woH·rtltkc .1 H\:11 t1 but'' rth Htb H•
h I I lm 1k 1 h ( mpanl Ongut :dl} a "11tnn1L'r
flnc .111 tlmoJ-1 !ifllnnt11 f.1cc IS pmdut'cd
uftnt! fTbJJ rrJI r.angmg au \'>I. aghr fnun- tet '8 ount.C!o
n p :tut '' \\ th ..tcut«nJ \\,\Jtf' :lfld MI..)H\rR l'r HIt F W[ \\£ \ dud1 \\ uh J 1cmgh( nt·d urhu;
rnrs " f. •mw.iln dt her n spcu.tl \\~.1w ur lu!-!.hl\ '" 1"'" I
I '~"rtf \ umnu:r r,;uttJng rn:.trcnal tlt.tt \.1m" th.tt hnnk \\hen wer
m ~ t~ r lUOCco; m J pl.un "'-':l\l ,,r1gmnfl~ I'll.. '\ dl·'>cnptwn fnr tl1at ~c..:tmn of .1 rR 'l r 1
\\ trh • rt ~n \\ \ltP .tnd
\' itr5t\ d f ll U M (St't outt: r ll g ltnl· cxtt·ndn1g fmm lhl' mhJdlc of th htp
. r rh~ '-utt l.tbn,· ... g.tft>h ld )
pc;•cl c.: 1 do\\ n h• th~.: J ur·~ PC!! hlp tmu t. r; ..tn 1m full
1

r I\ u\ \ r r-c f I nfJttl'd ,lJJ I umh.tpt:J 'itr.m tuf \\ tdc OH"Ifht.•lups nncl rap.. r w u~n \1\\ b Htnn ...
Ju h"ugnl b o~tltH"' JnU \ ~lil'IT'i tu the pun of
hrr.t
Pr "'l r''' t;. r r \ pcc"Uf dr\l'm:m \\fUJIJ .i f.trtcr r\' k t
I n&t J (t ~ It ud plur I f( •m Alu (f of the long
or 1 ep.lrJh: JJ,ltrt " Jle,ckr't u~u.lll} ln~hi~ .1 m.ut=-
f 'L fl'' F It 'Jutlf.l) pi 11 (lt~'J·I£ 1r th••nJd
' ru fs n tm I 1 Lcu1Jnr 1( )ngtn.tttllg 111 f u.tclor
J.td., l ro lmu t: ) 11(' ;11' lll(Jfi.• rl 11
t nhu " l F'i: ru rJ c.• r l\\ nu• ri.d ,!oc.. not u nh Pt 'l u t PJ I t;'\ \ t..'l'} tim ...mpcs m \ nr tlun: \\ -\ IU1-..
l m I an 01 bur I Jn.lm.Jt t.u~· tc.. I rhL l•:.~u .mtf got \\ lei• 'uggt ... rmg tlm..•c d1 ;t\>il d'} :l p~ rh d 1n nwn " auir
hr ·r\.'IIIt
i tl•h UJ J • ,.)urtu blt:nd ,,rcontt '"' '"'" t1....
rd p.ntt I h< rt ltr \ Jnt.JI• n b.t ~·r •unJ (su th ~lmr r •lmn ,g rrd~,J,1 1\..!IJI
J 1r ' u l Jnt.tf nr dura r au d t I :wreu PJt;• u-1 }
n \\ ~ lr.g - n. rm~ I •l J PJ l u \ Rr u l 'I 1 h~ pu c.•rmatt. c It r.tt h.'l'ttU\ 1 1
'I
pr d n } 1 lng_Jn 11 \ "' ,tft \ hch pt<mut t \'<lt.c.'f Jll f ~q ...... L1 r
m l" · t Jm ffnm l~.J ~ n r i •t rhh u h n tnt1 , h.
f ... t l J nth\: 1lt It lrt ,f ~
t • th r \ • f tor lt Jt rtl
I .\ /'
I 1£ J. "\ Jl I f1 \ \1 i ..t t1L Jt 1 nrn-
t rm Jflplt
thJ• !Yrm~
in \\1.. .t I' It It iugt,· f.J ll !~ l, dtrt..LJ 111 htt n ••t i!nbr
d n .m,ll ~n• (\ff' umm r trl thr- "'Ult J.1~ru-o; &-11~ fnld )
I'I [C.[ D'\ I I' J1w l"nn upphcd Ul ll fabrrc th.H hil! cor w I ..h ph z t
Dl'<'ll dh d alil r If ha... bee 11\\ OH'Il th opp! ltl' r r m ,., trom thl
l AR Ill Lli
Pt \I ftt JrT

rL"-1 "r ~\ r
am t • rnm 111 f .111
I~ Ill INC. 1 he fornt:tUtln of grot!p'> of . .hon 1r hr l ·1 d c J I 1 l t t. art p
hb<·r- on t ha surfa\;e of 3 lrrhru: that :m: l:tngk(i llldt; r th~ T1 M CODtlUUUig
tog •1lwr m lite sh.tpt' uf:r tilt} h.tll cnlled 1 -r.ull P"h
ln! rmmcd \\ Jat.>n I he enciH)f n h:ttl") 01 \\ miJ) ltbtr PLr 1 \ fold nf m tt.:rul p d r t 1
brc.tk Iron• du! ftb!lc surfitcc Wit4lil} from\\'(' t I~ h lltn piJ~.c.: l\- tl c n tTi n, p1
I d\ .n·d aan utt tt• u c.: r \ldtn J pit; t
p 1M •\ <.:0 J H 'N •\ l,Hlg :,lnplt• ~OtHHl gmv. n tn rh~ 111 l'rtc.:d l do\ thr- ~ .u~rl md t t l n
\uwric.m outlml..'c.:t numt!J aftct' l1am., C ,,unr) IIHUiu,gL:tn< Ill Plr::1t~ tr~ u ro; f I t 1 tl u
t\ • 1z, 111::1 ( n:.ucd b) ~ros.,brt"'nling Lg; pt!.lll .md wit.bting nf th r. I1Jp "'h u ~ rt d \I J1 rc- 1
\rlll.:ti..<IO \,Jnl:Hc~ l'tm:tl:llf hlfl •~ c1nl} fi1und tn trn r \l:numllm \\ju?Jt t.ntdin • (. u p:t~ 118
qJJ.ll111 lurtmg"
Jitl A'TF JJ 8t)S<t!o.f !\ ofr luu L s m mt J t
PIN ~HI Ch. \check "i~~ apprDaduug that of .1 qu3rter u rhrc-e quaner-tnon t ld na nUig
pmh~.!nd smaller than 11 shL-plt~rd\ d11 rl. produo..t d h} "lm~..-lcngtJt tt"P shun I d t v. rt:r f r r
rhc t'nd m end Wt"':l\"C o( ah.:mlllllg mlorc,l thrv.ld'i tnd Y. fh>s~· \'fJJth dnt 11 nor c.:Jil J nd r l1
uo:cd for sumngs spvnsv•c.lr and -.hirunga.; (~ sumng sur.pcndc~ (~tt p gc !. 4-h
p:tgc -I bortom.)
PLLGbiN<. Thcpw c,o(m l,,~ hI ntl
1'1 N 0 1 Ukc n anw's a F. pauurn but sm:tller .1
1'1 furi'mg du....h...nJ. tlf rht> buu n Lin u~l
snull dor nppru.-xtm.nd) rhe iil7-C of a ptnhl!ad, usuJJiv tton rhl" other ._Jdc w Jth .a piUJ:! t t L,,_,
found 111 \\Orstcd m.ti11ngs (~u !;UJting page 145) Other mnrcnnl t; ~ed nh nuln h1 'r b
I'INl'OIN I OXI OIW A qpe at ,.Junmg th:tr is liglua button< \\-'JUt metJI ~lunl. .~ dldt. f n 1 plu :< ,, 1
an wc1ghr .md linn in h~:ulth:tn '>r;mcbrd oxliJfd dodt hnlc: \\til It(jl he th1 on dtl' urfac:L I U1t 1 l 1

PtN W\I.J.' Cor~iuror with .1 \l!l"}t1:u:r•JW wale ot• nb I' I U~ 1 Ot.: It\. '>u KNlc J::l fWt) t I R
(5tt• n:n ~ jn~ket. pngc 1.-;q) Pn A "lrnn~i of n um JU v..hh.h rn r owt tr.u J
PINK \ :-.ttlt ~hade of reeL nre tw ~~ted tog&.:Ul('lt 111\ rcrm 1 u d 1 t u• ..{
d Js.>tfic.twm. ior t·l\:.unplc ~ngJ ph ~'w pl) 1 pi r..
Pt ~Kl NC Tlk nHring of d1c l~dgc ul~ mnrcrial m a
:'.igz.1g, ~.l,, tuoth de.."Hgn LQ pr~vem fr:t} 111g. Pn• ...: 1 T .\ b:.1g mad!.! of~ lor h 111~ uc n t nh t

PtNNI"I) COLL\R Am ~~hirt collar su'-h n. a mum! •)r 1'0Il' I TO rnt Jl.l \ mc.~un.'tllt'IJl r
:ll."l~ [ I IU J r
•
'tr.ughr·point -=ollar who-a~ l~oJim.c; ru-e de~ign"·d to bl \\ 1d1 h Tht dr~.mn.:.L' het\\ ccn the l\\ tJ, uldl r 1 t
hcl..lu1 phh·c with~ ~atcty--.1;-k pin. If dw (oll:.u Ita..; a \\11lchJ,Jcfillt:dasdt.1tprunt\\h rcrh<"i r h. fJ r
natural tiber luting. rathcnhan lihing rlw pm's lwlcs :>l':tm lllt!Cn- the top ..:lee'~ at rh 11 ... k am rf t:Il
will do'c up tn dw wibhing process. (St:r pngl!~ 1H 229) runmng behind rbt" bad, of til!" \."Ull:u r r d
other houlder 2long \\lth tl1c hnlib ~~ m t
I' IN~ IIUI'ES· Fine 'itripc.s the wtdth of a pin scrnrch [hc.;c t\\ o rn~ tsurc..-n1C1lt':i LCLintt'-'1 th \\ dtit I th
resulting from the u l' uf whire, gray. 01 orher).trtl5 in Jackl t shouldm;o;
sencs lf1 the \\'ARf' ufa \\OR."TLD I \1\RJ<..•. c~~c"FnlJ'"sn
rhc "Sun I .rbric.:, .. g.ncfokL) 1'OLKA nor 11H· carlH!.•;;r dt'"l~n l..n u n t l ' I

nee I.\\ ~:mr. Llrtgmdll) reputed It ~ mb u t t • "un

A ll<lrmw (Ord. braiclort~1l,l U!it'd 10 fini:-.h •JI
l'ti'TNt..,
dccor:nt' tht• cdg~:- or pockl·t~oi a garment.
l'IQ! t: ,\ 'ur~l.
rib, nr wale f:1brk >lChi~.:\ il1~ its r.1isc,l
~urt:,cc. a,,~swtse from -.dvage to\ ~dv:1gc sornclllllt!'i
W(l\On w forl'rl :t hmw1. (vtnb or w:t11le •. JlTt:ct 11 •~ used
l(w hnsomo: of f01!l1.1l !ihirts and I~Jrm:tl \\ nio;rco!H~. l he
\H1rd b dcrhed from dw Fr,·n~rh •ltt~l rcft>n. to·:~ pth•"
or "rh.u whu:h picrrl•s.-
Pl '\l-:Kn A s, p.tr:th.' .,rrip ofrubnr st'wn onto n slun
from nr c;lec~c g:tunclct 10 .;t:cun: the bummholc ~ .wd
God (Srr pnge 11)8)
PbLO COA 1 \ dmiblc ur 'utglc- hfl' c;red '
cJmd s h:nr nr s11ft i1f.'l'.:.~ '' ath ~·J n ·r 13.1!1
pat.·ll pockets '"·nh ilaps -s.fcc i' :-utr.. m..l h r t' Jl
:tround belt Thrs Amc:nL .m dm.c; r.. Jll;e<il 11 b
rr.1<.r.d h.l Brmun·c. h.h'.-.tnhan pol fidd h h
•pC'TUil!; SI.JOCl) g"' ndcmcll bnd tl car J fi r
'' tdl ~ru nct1ung h • rhr...J\\' \.t•r rlll"lr h d
co.n bt•t"~oen -chull:as .md s~ l f t n r t
Bmthl!r.; as bn!Ch cre4it d "nh mtroJu Ill! d 1
~

prO\ ide "rructur~· and finish (.)(t :;hin pngc 2-.l) 1..":\lat f.,t "' c:~r .J\\ .I} imm tb~ p1 ill!! h fLh.

I'LAI D ~ hoxM>c di!Stgn fi1rmcd b} smpt'' oPYnnous Po:-..t.a F. A hghnn!ight ilighth n =t IT J rl

\\ttlths nuuung \crric.dh aud honzonmlh on .tl":tbnc. 'Ilk fubn~- m J n~turnl ..JuJc • r" um :or al .J

C>rig1n:tll} the ..plaid- \\a.; a ltmg ~t•cmng,th1r doth'' nh t.ulon.-d spon,-nc.tt. I' ~pe,"t.: " 1d t be · tf
c.tn.tn (mtllll) in hlark and \dur\!~hCJ'Iwrd dtldt) rorruprmn of rh.: Clum ' pr bt m..: \
worn owr the left should~·r b) d:t\ nr mp,ht the pw1 slrl 11.1tl\.t. unuld ..til.
 ------ - -
l't1 "R llC\'l fit.rihh\!d knn~'ih.th:r
·\n.urtt l>t>n"\! pulllp. i\lt!H:.tugh the pump bc:~u :1 ;r pc.t~UJt., ~h•x Jt
nmd.: ''aha Jngh round neck '-"r rurrl~.:nL-ck Rl-' t\cd 111 \\.1~ .tdoptcd h) tht.• .unifi..•mts,:d mnn t."r\,1nt n rhC" l.n~
1qbo tn'm a type 1f S\\t.:Jren,om b) n"'~ ho" ~; ~·f du~ 1-l.ws tbl' lm\ hcdcd shp nn \\lth flJt hu\\ hnall
c: uh twrnnerh ccntur} c•JUt red . .oucn as-n srnan Iipper fllr th&: f !>hiouabl
dl"t's,.cd bd ship qfLnndun L1tL•I tl br~ urt~:.• \LtmbrJ
l'aJI'U ~Spl.-un tight f.. WtJ\'CJl t:tbnn' n h prououm:cJ
:\.
rib.. ftWd tn..J
. b) u . . m~ lre-~•cr .:md CPUI~r\\ \Rll pmcc, ..
\H'ilr for mi.'Q forcrnnd .rlTo!Jno.. and \\1 rn wnh hri" • he-.
(St.e page.. 208 .!'if )
tl1:an \\ n r l ru.1U \U'"Rl.TIU7..E.n fQr higlu.rr lll'ilcr
p< pltn has .1 h~' tcr n"\."turc dun broaddNh II \US l 1 l'N,~IIJ "lu" P~r:fontw.lnc; to tr(',lh.' .m ontnmctltal
l ngm.:lllv a ~rlk IJbm. fur ~hurch o; esmu.:11t~o.••.md tht' cff~~1 nn shot~ (,VC' p;~gc l'Jl)
rc~ s... dcm nf fc'Vm the FrcndtJ'.'lptEr~t•, {rqm "lwn dw
l:tlu i · \\.1'1 m.1d~o: w htgnolt,. a p~p:~l cirr (sec mnrnt•r' f'U IH. j\ o;utch Ill k.nmJng Hl \\hiCU I he ).ltn I!\ ruJI..:d
In th~ htn rahm . . ~pt.efuld)
fi
tr<:1111 tin• 1:nx~ of the f:thric row·a,·d tlu: bad~ n. dJC; nc\\
lnt,p:. .ut' ti'mn~d Th..:. wvi'rsc uf the pl.un kun st itdt
1
( (m.K l If. .\ -.pdl4 h_.l£ ur f..tl,ric ha\ 111)! •1 fl.ll
ltat JO ir pn:•du..:cs horizunt;J I rm' ~> f 11 nwd 11m· kuu riu,g purl
rnpl1cJ "ro" tt rc~c-mblmg .a pork pic 111 r;h:~pt.: ... \ stitch,•., ,HI! produ.:c.d un .1 Hnl.s ,,m~ Jmh machl"ne
I lt::.td urn">llmt:.. M) r.:rmcd E!.JilO'Ffll:Jg:ll.inc wlnrh
Putti'LF.. 1\ coludmll~u~ bet\\Ct:It hluc and n-.d rlu·
rnt:rttduc~.:J tt tn rhc t-<no:; lmqaH) the hat"s lo"
cdor rh;tt ts aSS\)CJ:ncd \'>1 t h 1hi! gunm.·ms wou1 hy
hn~ dn" mu..srh scuti~ IK1\H'\Cr. It"'' olved IIHO an
''nt}Wrurs ( ( ~mcierH H1Jme was .uctualh crunsuu
<."'ttubfl.,hed Lhhron for W\\ 11 .und .cmapw; tn .1 \~rieq
of "·n)op; and latt-r hc('omrng a gtn.t.'Ttc r.·rm in the Q!_: '\It rt:lt Titt• CNnpkte bad~ and upper p.tn nf .l
h.1 t bu ~ 11("5!; hoc th:tt ;l,ins the ' !'.111 r
PRI~l.£ or \\ALE-s LHECJ:.. The rramc "iJch hut
m nrrcctl upphcJ t11 rhe Ol.£NU RQ..LHAl{ 1 ch~ck .1nd
'lnHI.Jr chn·k '' uh u rolored 'Hrcheck 11tt' au!hcnttc-
Pnncc of\\.Ut:E cl1cck "\\,,~ dr:.s1gn ·d h} Ktn!;! hh,arJ
' R u L I: L) 1 ., 11 t ~~ n
\ H gr.mdf:uhcr •fme f.unons Oukcuf\\ mdso1
\\hi: Jl he \\.t<; Pnn~ nf \\1al~s as b\c"t'f) 1:1r his :;ltootrng:.
,J.t \lwrgdd11.: •lnltt;t• un cotland ~ Dt•cstdc. It rs oi
muLu· p.mcm tel the ~cnurqulmn but TJt!,l rl} (\\icc 11 ~
IT.£ on r pc:tt with .;oJ,, r;s of red bmw n on .1 \\hue
the doilzes )'Oil HL't'cr tP('llr.
grnund '' uh .1 !!Wtt· gr:J} u•uxc.hl.'d.
- . - -.-~-~· ..... --- -. -
l'RINCl. t'l \\ .u E~ • •"~A: I.
A !'hort.lno'r:'-larung
ragla.n I C\ed mgk bre:~.tcd n} thmt tupcoat wnh .I
H.ACI \N r\ luO..'t:.' fh.rmg rope oar with full ..:ut -.It-co\ es
ruhb\ fJCllk Ltpd and ..ttsh pcn::l:.et.; Titt' tnn nf rlus
c.uar r that lhc Pouct: of \\~c s.m rhc ortgHl.tlsu A c:ncuding at an nnglc from e.1~h armhole to llw wll:tr
\\tn lm~ uf d~p.arrmc.·nt swn· w fdmhurgh likt:d 1r
m fooru nnd h:tcLgL~.ucr.1lh o;inglt hr~·a trd \Hth .1
.md \\Cut msnit and bnughnt huuon·thmugh fmm:. uotclti."d l.1pd Jnd turn bJd
\'uff.., ~ arnr•d for Lord R.agla.u ~n Ef1!!h h g<-ncral m
Pa l"'llT rancrn appltcd tu fabric b} mean nf !OCJ"CC:ll'i the~ nmcan \\~rwho \\a mputtd t\.., ha\1.' "liAA( "tt..J
llr" or uth~r tmpn. ton that Ius troop' .:ut hnle:s m thr.ll' blanker.; ar1J the:: n
Hlh-h tht> ha11~ing folds rnto C)lmdnt alm:tpt·~ fl,r thctr
fl l!.H £• r ~BT \pcr<iall\\itlulnrgt:.r1ic:-tt than
:tnns to pi\H\!u them fn"'m tht• bm,•r H..1f.tdinn t:"ulJ
\Cr.tgt' 1 CJU"r ,f 'eat tJt!htnt·~ on o.n .1mf t rnuscr-..
\ raothi!r ~wr~ goc" tlut I nrd R.1gbn h.1d ht~o f'11lor
r•nt ~ lint m.uendl made ftorn n twn up .md
Nf 1 u dl: 1g11 ,1 C.OJl 51~\"" that d tsgmsc.-d rhl' Jo-. "(.li ou..: qf lm
m ' do' n \tAtlP taL:c:cl m1ll \ha>oe \n t·~ht..cnth 1nn" rn b.1ul~
c'" nun I n_glt!'h "ttr:tni f:.1bnc m td~· tn " dm~c h.tl'J\r:~s R \1 ON \ ll.'xnlc fiber m:hiv l-;.,111 n.:g m~r:m::d
t \Jll.md \l"il~ll· ~J~d J tl.ulpmpl~ urpfttm hade
t:dlullll\1.' b} the\ ISH'"'~ t'rcupr~unmuuimu pro«" :-~
1 h1 term'' Ut nhd fmm the f r~ul"h wttr.ll'f'l411tlllJ
wlu h m an'" ,plnm .. 1 ltc. \\ \fO -1.nun"",\I;J..-If1VI!1ltCd II] 1•)..2.J Kl·tmuhm
J t1f{l '' bu rhottgl·n rite hb ·r hntlln..w•
It H ~ \n niJ t~tl r ~t, rm for 'iiUC si •t~ an '\ ttl'i t(o u.,
Rm f'J H. .,hurt f,ttsbl~ brc:-.1~trd ~~' l rct,at or J.n·kr.t
\
I•t ,l}!\14 It \ pk h:~ \ t\t'U f.abn In n soLd "r usu.tlb m:tJc of 1 h• ~H<) , ll•th ~\'UrtJ l)\ o;c am.an
r.t!t •rn fnr: th b-.md of 3 <tl:rm:V r fdt h:.Jl \ •Jiltll.tr ( "~r1gh,,tll) ir fttMl."ned at tlrf' '.tJl'.; ~u tt mr.tlh pla.. Nl
f ....rt \I; .1: \\- () rn 0 n ~II illl\ 1IJ 'ntL ol. ( I " p·'Sto l.!,.l.2.J hmttm41 \\(1\lld Jlut he ...uJghl 111 nggmp.ltnt "hen
tluft rl"~...fing s til ·r;_....,_.-Ja> It as tltc hJ\1 Brut h Rm111
rl ~.u• rlil unJ lcJ mal :a hKirn dr fur •nn:ll r. .r\-y \lffi(cr " pd..l:t ami rfu~ ftul!bl'.ar oft hl· doubk·
"'~'-• mn gronrl r L'Jltlri 1 aud ball, non l.ci JUit~ br'£"..1: t~d bbzcr mudd (~ PntH C' { harl r-.tg<: I II )
uc ~J\' n tm p uup ugur.ui."lf I he h'rnt ''-il flr'<lr '\1:.' t ..angle !r dL uhlt: hre.t. t ...J httt·d r:ul~,rcd
llil-11"' tl :tn i""m \\i1cn fm rmt""JI mJ
d dumtg tl oH·r ~ t.M t \I "ltU :t m ufflc r
tb uu! .tn~ ailed pump~ v•m tlun led
I 1tb r l lr h 1 b, ~n ugge'>t<-d tb.u du•n I
t;
RJ(riMI~TA~ liiiRJI'E..Sc't p,tg\.'1'1
it 10 home ~ho tltppmg np :md d 1 m a th~ Rrr Ill r..- \do d) nbhcd fnhr·tt; -with.-
\\ll\'('11
U .1 :\ ~ ntnri•lc tlnur... oundt:d hk .t \\".llU:l rr.w L'Nt ~ord vtlccr fomtL-d b,- rfu.· rut r
 tlu: "Akl• m regular I'll\\" of lluat~ P.1n ll ulnrl..1 lat ted l\ I agur.H ~ m lhc L.lrl ll)_ 'UU
la o.tnpt"c; '' rth the rth runnmg tLrolt;~ 1lu I 1bnc an has1 of Hn nls Bmthr r 0 tlU I
\\(~\Hag Jr '' U'iL'd prun:tnl~ lar ucd:"<".tt .tnd f. Jr th rh. u ,,. n car
.t~.:<"C'> orlt· llh tctm onginntcd m !.!lglnet mh &:l'ntun
f J,111t:L LUI'l'Upl~\i from nf. • '\Vfll £ \HOl uh trtp
'\ l;{ceJ ,_, rd :i
leathcrmcJ UlJ.•m b-p n !h m cnl rh t f
I' r I' I A 1 \ \.lc~agn t hu1 appearr. agatn und 'l! un m a th fih•• .,r ln mt~t ug I r u h a, bn n r
ttbaiL.•thn tht· munhr r ol 1 hrcaJs or ttiLho rcqutr(t]l(, black on "lutr (~r p.l$' _ •C.)
~:om pic 1e tllll.' Jt:s1gn
!oo '\I AJU JAt <..lT \(( nt.: H J ,.c. 1 fl
RII'R ''I !l:,l I'\\ H.H . \\noll~bt·r:. th.n ha\t prC'\10u I)
b~L'Il f.,bncatL:d hll1 th.:H'r worn, The\' .uc thtn ALf \JI'O J1ff'PTR fhr 1ipct..klud II -t u -d r
Ulli'JH'In1_ fL"SWI'~d ttl nlwt' r,·,rm 'if'UII afh.l \\O\'t:l1 otht: I f11bn produced b) fled fl b_ck uJ \
-.
, ll ~
~~.1111 inmm:.tl~n.tl bnm 11 ,md whht. a-~
fall

Rl II 1tNT Ct)N:o\'1 lf t.o •l~nN. \ 1m'1hod of ~A •.. DAJ foot\~ ear con~tl'itmg <•La ole \IUt .,,,.. p~
m:muh1Clll111l~ ,, nt.·daic. inH'I1!~.:'d in tlliJt•nrl) uppct·m Ur1 •tn· and .a bud. led rr.1p c''lcndtng frt•m d
''J2lh l'r Jc:.s1e l.tHgsdinf f11 \\ htdl riH: lm•~ cut
bm:l. o\ cr the jw:wp. 'lnmt:umt•o.: 1hrn are n o· 1
to~· ~traps tn front
~hdl and rhr: bws ._mjmerltntng.ln' h•'ld wg~.·dtL·r
h) .1 rl.'"ilwm "lip 'urch -.o rhal tl1~· ii1ushcLI ric SiA 'N L>t :-. J \ suit tJnnl~t u:lh.n\ h.tdt' fiR :lJ p<. nng
'>tn!lt.-hl·s and fl'<;\lH'f'i \\hen knot:tl'd ,\lJ ltnc ttcs rm.• un rhe f.1sluon ccm· a .t nn\' Wthardm Muu.:l titr p r1
em u11 rht: hw-. hclpu1g them Lu htm prc>pt.'d) to tlCll ~lud:l'> COIIIcd h) Bqurrr., #\pp.ard A. f" mund ~·J4
mist \\ IH·n hung fmm rhc nt!d.:. and to rct.tm thl!Jr
A~r,Hunn Tllt p:uuned proe£' of ldmpte h"
f\.''tltt::nl·\ a ft{'J- ll1111 mg
'>hrml..l}:.'<! Ut:ll guaramt,w that .. Ltbnc" r tdu:tl
Rn TllS \ llOI her n.ml~ fN lapds ,lC[ll:tllr the fncmg of furrher hrmb~ \ull he Jc,c; 1lun J pt r em u d
the: l.tpcls which folds back to show the rr.wrsr c;1dc uf primanl) fnr. drcs!> hirt. J he hrand namt 1 l\ th .i b
rite collnr and l.tpd-. the :-,anforized Compam \dnd1 1 .t ubi 1d1;u I
Clu~rr P<.·:Jhnd\
Itt \ ut~l J'lr u \ 1RQUsrR 1'1 L.t\I thJriolds or face"
out tO\\'ltrd dw pocket, l>ngln.dlrcallrclth, AT J ~ A dfl:tel} wo...en shnt) f.abnc pmdu '"...:ll .t
Conttncntnl plt:ntllS llppn~~ lll rhe t:n~IJsh r IJ'\Hlrd \\Ca\'t'th,u pennirsasm:nt} ofdw'\\l\IU•end p1 .,,bfc il
ple:tt 'I Itt• t'C\'Cnc pleat proJul"cs a ll:m~ r HcJUH!f' irom 10 llu:u 011 the faa: of the good! rt!,uJung JU g!t '} fi ce
I h,m dtc il H'\\ilJ\1 p1<.'31:. (Sec page I J ~. I \\'0 bo1 h llll anr.i dull llmsh b."lck Mad.: of qfk ur' nthenr t!u~: r .unn
phnr ogr.tphs.) 1~ u~-cd i"nr nc.. laveal' :ntd :1s trimrnmg lor fnrmah\~ ar :1'
:111 ahcrn,mvc 1,) rhc.- dulkr nbb,:d gru."!!f'l'" {.Vt
Rm 1 l"G no en ;\ h1gh leadwrf,ul·,r ~lt:tpc..•d w l11 1bt·
tlt!cltt:it., of lame" Mru.on p.agc q.t and I IOU5 beebe.
leg dcsi~11L'd c-.pl'ci.JJy I(Jr hor!>L•buck riding
p:tgc 1:0.)
RISl Tlw dist:tnc..·ll-om lh~? crotch dw '"P of th~.~
tu
~A' ILE Rtm, Tht" tnmou.'> fa.shton t: tab!tc,hmmtlnult
1 Rul rrt-.' \\'\I,TT>ANfi, a' tn lo\\" rise sln~.Cks and high
h) the rnrl of Burlmglon ;md n:unt.>.d ft t lu.s nft
rise u·ou,crs or tht! diiTen.·n~e b~.:'l\h'Cn the Tn'u~cr
Dnror h) :n tle Toda} 'J str~'!'t 111 tht.: \\ L l l nd nl
leg's \)Unl A~t and I~£L\M
London on\\ hrch mam ct\l>h m t;ul 1n an: hxuu:d I

R011 COL I !\R ~rr SHAWI L>\1'1:1.. until H~·au Brummd CT~ted ;t 'n~n'" tnr ni '-1 )Kf ..\ I

Rt..Wl sou \ hoc !>ok· m:t:dc l,rhcmp '"'r hruided

or
l.1!loring 111 the Iauer p<trt the <.·~hllcrtth t.~ntUt)
dttl S:J\ile Rm\ bec.1mc J mL'CC~I fnrrh~: \\dl raalllr"-d
flbcr.s .amJ hdd rogcrhcr wnh 1hrc:tcl ~1r adhc.!SI\1..'
L
maint~imng ~uch :t reputdrltm 1\'l dtl'• d.:
Ru't.Al. ox 1onn· A lu'itrous.. high "'-'Uill (lrtgin:tl!) "~l.lN'"t: \ dmh rh:n dl!tl't:s.at tunH· from rhr \Cf!
lllglis!J drc~<;~~bining clotb cnn..,trucft~t.lllt .1 II \l>f.: IT higt; gr.aie \\ODl r:u~;cJ m ~axom \•cnnnm \\hu~l the
WJ \.\ 1 d(',ign of fine two-pi) } ,tm~. (."irt'' \.\ inter~ ill
hc11·!i to rh~ Engli::.h tlm.m u .;uch ct [d\\.trJ \I I Ill d
the "'Slurt [abri ~~.. g:u~·fold.)
tn w~:ar l'll rltc•r-coWill"' t;:.<a~t""' fhc mun • (
Itt I I· 01 ·r IH Mfl:"' fht• tcrm 'rult• ,,( dm111b' IS dl·riH•ti :1ppltcd l\1 solt~fu1isbcd \\Uok<tt fuhn s nf ~uruu rl~ 111u:
iri1m rhc rmcu:tH prao:ticc of U!'ing the thumb n., :-. stotk 111 f.'lncy yaru ._}Iocr$ on tlt.. o:rdc or fl\h cd. ll!it

lllC':.t!;UI'iug de\ icl!. Jn mnrL• nwd,·rn rimt'!', 11 h:t~>
tn be kmm n .1s :t guiJfng principle\\ nit" td<·
.tpplioui<m oncc agatu urn mrcndcd to b~.:• mkcn .t:o
g\1:-pcl \\ hile r11uch ii.1ss has bt:cn m:ull.'" ahoul tilt> t'ttlcs
that govcm pmrcrdt\' !'.lnrk· has h!.!t'll said .1hotn tht::
les." tall~lblf• Cfl\tlllrlllD th:u rnflu~IKt' pJ.un, oJd
iashtonc.J good juclgmt•nt" L\r0•1k· l)rOlhcro; 1•)3q
Rl ';SI r \ .:hHh d)ixl "ith bark m a dark bro\' n
1\Lj,; 'll r \ .;nfcl} t:ulvrcd cvar (r;.Hht:r th:lll.l .,,ut)
cumt' i~'r o;Uitlll~ l<lLkcliug~. ;wd trnU:-ct r~
sctMI'rt. \ q p<' oJ""•\.l''l.C sallth.u rc ·en d 11 n.lltl~.;;
from kdrrr. \\ htch mean~ rn ch p en .:-ur up ' h.lppi
1lk I!> cut uno ..hoa lcugth" nd nuxcd """ odu:r
fibcn> in th~ spun salk method llf m:tkmg \.lm Jl .,
~tronu but e\iJlL'~ trregubr Ju.,ta.>r
;:, "'
'L 01 ..-u c..R \I' \ pet•blc gt:Un1hat t:. m tnmt
hem" chrome- .mnneJ .:.'l.J~ lcad1Lr '' tth u dccph
cmhm.:l•d pcbblciJ ~urf:au: tku t ret:uncd C\c:U tt r

\\ n h ~tr.1igln hanging lmt:>~ ltghtl) ~p:~ddcd mmmd rhc:- "'hn~.: h~!' bL·cu L \STLD c n!!mall} mad Ill ~ d.md
~houldcr> .md undann1 fr,,ms (whn-h ml·ntb the ~o.lt ;~nd I ngland for shoe' of lht' ~mrJ l\NO{ l I 1\-p h
h:ll; lru lc ~haping ,11 the w.t&~t) fir,l pc,pul:uiz~..J b1 dtl' mt'
Lt.::'l(lltrc:J c:uri..,"t.• knJ' ,rux_. ' "f1l rtU1J! jgpl,
 'C T• H T\\'l:£1'' Twe-."\\c. tn!!dc: m .1 J:\H" up .wd two th" Joiumg uf f'\\o pwc~""\ ._,f(tlmo: a 't~l'"dl I' h :
J~)\\"11 nHU ut pl.un \\ lntt" ··nth .t PH u :-.:{i .,f "' ,, k d) c<l ltL•.ltnt.'s,<; tO m:d..---c iunJ fiar curf h ~. tlch J· Ill I hr
\ ..:um th~ rrc ifuggt :md trtt'gular m.tppt'"tranc~ scrgiug of a ru.tr w .1 It'<'\~
'\ R.ff"{ rRit.:fi'SG l'ontu~ 1.1hnc h) me 111 ut'a Gn~ ~F1 TN 51 rn I \ .:-o;~r. Inn. -tlr •IIu.;r ~ mucm \lcL
m ..h ~rcett u1 \\hhlt . . p<!... tfic .m:J" .1rc trt".Itcd to Qh\td
'>('\\ n tn .11 the armhole.
uhmng m ttt..r r he c.olurtng m.ltl.!rt.tlts f\.m:t•.J
tfm,ugh thl: ~o ·n m tlu pan oftill· t:1l nc tmJ'-'' rh" ~£\ 1 UnlmcJ ll!.!l.."k\\l'.lr nu~tt \\ uh
F{ till liE d ·r
unr~tc..f .lrc.t" L!.:h .:clor m th'-' dcs1gn rl'qum.• .1 told" of Ghnc dn: uu>st l:ill d .ltld c\.t'ith uc-
-, p.1r.1t1.; crcetl
'-n (st \ND l't.R Tc..i'-' I ht' \'4!I) finl''\t loug l>!plc IIA !IE I he lOO\: of :1 ooJur .tpprua.:h rng the d 1d cud
cnooJl ltt...tn.tu- .UlJ r;trun8 gro''" orig1t1t1lh-1n 1\nu!>h oF tlu.: \t,ll "c ":nl·.·
cnkmutl r.Jan {o; w lfh' l .mbh·.m lollJ) 11 •~ r.uscd 011
.!'ill \l"ti\\ '>Tilii'ES \nmdr!!ttnct. o;hadU\\ 'ltl 'P'' t:ftett
~nJ~ 11fr LhL' mudit.':in cna..,T nf <.,L"i.lr~l:t. m •Jmh
~ro 1 ana, Jnd u1 dtt \\est lndn.:~. "r t l:~l.ut\f ~ •nun i!i.
pi'OJuc..:d by rmplo~ ing .llu·m.1t mg smpc~; tlf n~thi
!tlld fefr JmnJ f\\ N }ilrll lii dtt! WAR I' (St\ 1.!11 IU tlk
a ul.thl.! t uh m rh~ lugltc-..1 quaftt) shtnurg:>.
'>J111 t r .tbn,:~ ~ g.n-di,ld prtg~; 1,~. brtUOIIl )
!oi.l \ M 1 h U p.:1n !'lf n gnr~nt \dlCf.: dae l'dg~ · uf t\\ U
p~.~.:ct" nf m t~n.U ll'c ~\\ n mga~lwr '\If \1)0\\ \\Il\V! Thcdil•ct on Clloth~ m tnpl: · •r
pl.:~iJ, prnducC~.-1 h) tlat! umutJtal(' duplu uu:m o( tla"·
r. \I utt..nw.'< t \..Jcnt·rn.fl• nH'I h til(<'\' mdlt.:"" of '' l't~\c t(mnauon afn:r a dcflruttt n.: pt<nr 111 Jarl.e.r tnnc
:.id.:lmotul millCruJ inr tmu crs nllu\\ ing for t hl·
or "lud~ of ~an1 cl1:u £.f\-" the -prw.mmu •t rdl«n:J
C p;ttl$ti.'D Ot ~ \'then \\ ~.ucr i!> "eltcd ~had ~oms h<!mg crua upun tlu.: ltglu\: r p.u-t nl tlu: f lm
\I I R t < K.Elt \ ~\tl."hahle
f.thnc afwmm (•rotiwr
~UAJ,.:.J:.l( f..:~ I r \~\cater kmtRd oflit.:l\) \hl•l \utn
nl
blc.n.J: lmh "-rmklt'tl "-10pt:.s1tl.ldl·ln alrenng £he
.1 pi:Uu riblwd !.tttdt P c...tllt!J be~ m~· m mb~ r~ i"f rh •
lC'fl."l\1 'II ll r.hc \\ \Rl' dtn.•JJs f tn.l dt'iCO\ .:red b\ rhc
• '-h:Jkcr :-ni ongin:trt>d ir
llnnm an hrdt.t J .." .1 stlk tnbrtL' rlw \\urd 1 licnwd frum
tht: I ftnds trtahr (Penmn slJrr tt sld.:.tr. mc:.tnulg ··mtlk H \M l\l 1 TO''IIltuu· ,\ lt111\b l!lmng the am t.mm.:...
.md ug;u ) (~£' o\nrhum Drcxd p,,Jdlc p~1gc 10c;) of n buttonhole bur J10l L"Ut tlm)ugh

\1:-u U1tW \ luLlJl m.1d~ fr"m clu.· ~Wrm· ~ht: II iithrk :a!> 11 u-:t.. 1 ill.' >;t\!d pl.nc or l~;tLitl•r n•mlrm.:(m~ntuJ
th~t of tht; N LC K Tl E '\l[UJtt•d ti rr.:f~ 1 11~ {{lp bJ.1d~ a ~JrrJc l':'{tt.:mdmg trQm th\ lwd fot ".u.J ill "ill~'J'nrt
thruugh \\h1cf1 rhc uc', ~nail c11d ,:!111 bl :tiTu ro l11li,.J1t th~· anch
tU pl c ln tha.: .tlHit.•ncectlrn >elr lul'll· d1t u~.: · l.tb,l
uhcn ·~·:'\c;; t1 'iJmc pu.rp l<t Tt~p- LJU::LfltJ lun~lrnade II A I' I k A pattern guid£." ur CIU"h!d 11IIt.'l' tht'l:f lot' J

tl rt"Jnf r.· t h .tr ~elf lu 'P:t Oi' ~cunni! dac1r gtt1J(' u' gi\ 'llg t ht" desired t.vnwuno dtt.:' t'Famt 1 1 •
undt r'in:l ' , the tl(.' • n·nu·r back :-.&;.1m g.tnm:ttt \lu'.. " worLcr who pcrf,,tm-.. dm hill~ 1 m
b, mnuninJ! rhe front wrth sht.m.
"Jl F 1'-\ rl L1 !1i; \ \\0\-C.Il UCStgn IU thl• .tmt.: '§b,td\• iJ~ "
rh.~; h •· kgr mnd af du: iahnc ~11 >\RK Kl'-.i; \ dl'ar fan:-d dr\: ") \hH~ttJ fdbnc- n
t\\o tom:-s-n i"prn (lf t\\ dl \h.:.J\l' th:n '-tmul.JlL'"' r he ~m
'I U rJ PM {, .'o« fJtf"p.;( H l fl'I'J l';<.;
uf 11 -.h:~rk (~c·t J-ail" 1ll thl' Suu f thnc: "g.udi lJ )
ll\ \{.,~ fJdtlt oft hi'" cdgl"5 (
f .l f.abrJC. \\'C.I\\,'11 uf
I..H \\\ L l \1'1 t \ lapel cut 111 .~ac p1 ·~~ •r- \\ rrh sc.. m
I • \ t r ! \ ':il m u u.tlh- m bngbt c 1lor;; fur
tn l"t'nt.l'f b.-~.-k. that iol1o"' 1 he tront 'rt'mng ot tit
nJ rc tnl:O' Qr til prt""\Cii1 uura\'t'hng l he ch;~.go:.;
\\41 I ma: rl .rnarh,f tn wea\ltng 1._. tndtL.U•' thl" -smglc ur tfuublc brt'J.t:1cd r.td:t•t .md t\lll'i b.tl ~
J tr ·rcr ry.rnJ f dm e- lfmun mh 11 c"l l1hn "1thout ii(.HCh\:c; m~ pc.tb f lr:' J man.., Jinn r! 1d. t
lu . _ . _ 1 r tru~.·hon ''~ fiK J b) l.1w ' ''"~ tu·an., rn"rk 11te ouh th.:tn:nh c w the pt: :~kt',t l1pd J"· 1~11 f. r-
tlJcrr n nw qr ttndt: mark nr r'rcqm•m httL'r\.tl" 1.11\ the dw d.t'>!llt dmut•t ~.1 ·kt•t. (~I.". Nc~l t 1\\,.Jrd p.1g :!4.1
l i!' 1.. In 111~11 the word\\ .1!1 ~l·lf "J,gc rtf. Ri1"'(, t....(~\1. \ \CJ.1 \\.lflU Ol.ill'- "1Uh.f\ l:IT In
"-ntrHJF~fM 1 h · h.trnn;iL'1tOU!Ig hltd ti.._ r.nh r l~unh or ~ltt•t·p·~kin thnt f1:1" bet. 11 ranm...t WlJh HS "'\lt\1
than "hm 1w funnnh' \!llr \~ n \l Nl ttll tdht:J mg to rbc ~Ill
'"-1 ~ Ir \ ttff tr;t\\ h;.~r Y.ICh fl;.u bnut m .:ufor n 1. . '\lin HI HU ~ Cll H:~. ~hcpltcf'\f"..; pi.Jid 1hl:
f'Ol."ll;ml d In I.fiR \\ lu, h ("'UJOH.'.d tfiL prn..tkg ~ flliiJl\.l;)tt(')fl Ur(}IJ \•dttdl dtL (.'llltr( S rJ\: 'i ,1,1( S\ 11f"£14J
run tnen1mt> nghr ll• bt \\ ,__ rn \ nh :t dum ••· jn kt. t J norJt·, Ptsmu chcd~ n.: t 1 he· ol"tgtn ,t rh, i\J t rn
\\ Jl ... ~ I I p rt~i\ r ..Uld lrl.I! r; (\a r ' I I Jat .. b a.;kh\th 'St:'\Cilht'ntltt:\'111\111 y,Jt tlll \lo.t:
1 n m) 1 1 d h\ the lu-phL"nls- tor the 1r pln,,t.. tn tht• I ''" 1 11 f

"' R .E \ mtll j; ~ ., rn J t.ahnr. ~\a rh 11 m~tml
url'.t._'- .md .;~ dJagJJn:.J n1 ... n tu tll td.i: of(;tbr a.; \)!1,
a \ , u eJ ~nh llh l lrt ,n;rJJ from dh' I tun "' trtl
I 1r lk IMCd
\ m\il th.a: r •(n: tf, .. dtr td OhT ~t mau:n.~l
t tt L"i1m ff...un mr.ndm ~JW!Lb I ht
In tltf' ure;u I ~1ulutJ n tlf Jk;;J rl p \th n r .acJ
t:rn.mor1 .111d "il' dl nh: .:i I :u nn·n 11 1 R ~t r ~ \n
nh pn.•pm1t,Jtro:.;:d '"h .. d pltt nt • r 't\\ ill w .a
\\ht n• th~ '\ tpuag ,nJ \tdnng h u u I!\ t tttr fb~t.«~
,..........
•md fi lllr ()f\\ llJf or ·cmtr.1.-'iUng .u lur an"' 1t J
mnug .mJ tt au\Cr... (.~ ...,UJ,Ulttr 111 till" Suit
lt1bn.... ~.udold th~ Pnn -.- •d \:\ tfc-, p:1~c 66)
 ~Ill r1 A A "Ol•l pnzc·d (,Jr tt,s lightnru aud
D
ll I ( ( fl ~1
) JI t '-II' t d t~·n ,.,. I
\\ .tnnt h from f1t.'1'p 011 \: d off tfu: IU.Udll'rJl I;J t
h d u .. umkrt o <' 111 ~.: r m t
of ~cmlnnd 111 rh~.: h\'tl.wd a lcs. ~lh tl.md hct p tcm u tghrh u
ltk\: ~hetland punac ShL tl:md C\l\\.fi ltld lu: tlaud 1h n dt qu..n
ollu• do~<. :tn· the :-.m.• llt:st or t:bcu pc\.1 .
J n nc.h h 1~ rt' tzrd h\ hah
l

Rt'"'t"tllblmg 1"\\t>t.:d 10 .tppc.mmc<· but sufr'"·r 111 ft r I

odd jnckt•t'i m he d:md wo I b, c.tmt· .1 t pll' uf 'IZING ( HOP,) h
the 'HCJl"l\ .tiport~IU.UJ ,IJI~J lVI LtA• .t:£ l"l 11J tltl' .tn m h JnJ \\Jdth b th
t'.lrl) I •)l.l\S COUJ'tl''i' ~,r Umoks nmtllL r (.Su rnpt~ '\ti.JM HR~rt.SfN IT
J.rckcr pagL' 1oS)
SHIIUUN,.. \ ~ent·.-.ofdoq: p~trallcl ruammg.....,f,,onl
\1...\ Jll' l pocket 'OCt •m • 1 d t' t
hE I ft r
Jh.n Ul! 1rn\\Jl up M.l M.to anakt the: mottcn.tl bct\\ctn
't rtlt.:al ur dr. ga'llLil p )_In m th 1 1 t:t tl h d J
gothroughtoLhenc\:tb)r.;r f II m,gutJuJ
dwm s.·t 11111 hr g.JI ht:nugs (.Sre l Inrl.. t.nblc page H ,(,)
found on r. llll~•:ltb or uwn t..lt
SIll 'R I II A( " BA l A CI lad. Hf
In :t tntl Jt"l'd J:ld.l!l i1
1n \ f. flu: ptt Ill n ot 1lu: h tg f t · 1 r
I' 11 c H
hadt IC'rlgth •>wr dat: -...lmu(Jcr bbdc~ 10 tit\: b:h k nf the
lt~·d :md llohnuldcn cammg <] rolb r to dr:ag dunn rmm
J·•d er slct: c fu f1 n' ani I \ flltt. h a t m t

b.tck ~,r 1h..: rw..,l :111d or :t c0at ro lnmg ()Umard .md ~lc '\ c fun~• mor~ fon'-ard tu nut m ' u lu \; l!l l 1

1\\ n) from 1 he .;cat n.aural hang o( rhc "e.trt. r ~ nn >\ nomt I ll 1 )

1 \\hct~ th llnn hangs • 1h.l11t fn nd 1 t th

SUOH f IRON I BAI ANCI In a t.lilon:d Jnc.J.ct ,1 JncJ uf nuddle of thl." tad..cr lnp P' I 1.::1
from lcug1 h 111 tlt'-' h.,fance C\J tht" gamlt:nt causmg dtc
garment to pull fom-ard fn1m Lhc figur\.' and to appear san ELt'-S l -umH.I\"' A J nm d (: I rl Jll'
shorter m from. 1\ defect common to erect figure fromcd n :. T \Ulh bunon I ttl' " tb t

causmg a bad.: ccnrcncm to open someflnli!S ~;ubsmunng ~~~ a ''-'h n t und r ff

J:lCkrr or C\ <"'n ~u• r lt ualh 111 " 1 t. lh r. r b nd
~IIL-'~trr Nf..l K \ nc,Jdlllc that rc~JUtf('S :tiU\H'r ( u pagt. 169)
plaC'cmc·nt of collnr
"11 t •· I R :'\ r.unc:,J:ll uf utled l:l rr n or r h
~HOt..' u rfH LIN I· 1 he Gnishc:d ,mdinc of d1c ~hc•(tlder falmc \\ nh snap ta~tl'ncn or bun n nd .t 1.. rJur '
run t111 :1 g.1rmcm rhrrt j, ~qwm:-, nawr.JI t'tC. luu·d stnndmg oolbr
'IIU 1 I l l .. \11 imph.·uwnr Lhat tll(WC~ rill IN(. prns
1 1J' ON \ notllace!d ~h )t.: C'&th • J ' UL,Lt:d I
bt't\H'Nl \\' tu•) aru~ ro pnlUu(e ::1 wnvcu (aL,nL·
~tylc

~IDE HAM. The .sen in running from the :trmltolc F> 1h~ ~~ 11'1'1 H
\m foot'"\ .tr (~'lcc-pr u rul-bcrJ \\lUI HU
bolllllll or the coat jPIUIIlg du.' fi·ont ro dtt• ba(k ofco:ll
fustcmng Lhat as <.]Jf'Jled on the f.., 11 .tnd h ld 11 plot
II)~ \ FNT~. Sec page 89 "nhour ·Ill)' f.'ll>..h.::nulg; frmn the tcnst n ilJ'( 'ttl :1 the 1

• u r SI ,. \ lighrw'"·ighr CPW>n nv1 LI n1.1tcnal wuh a U I' STITt. H 1d 1i '"" mg t ~ t fu-r

\ mnh tl h If
calcndcnzt•d '-')!1:1/.c fimsh usl'd f~,r pockl't lming~ ..:rc Jn\1 blanket of a nt.!d~u~ dlat pcnnm n m um lrL l I
and rccm er} charac~nud b the pre.."" fl('l(! ot
1 Llli.JUJ ·r 1 r: Th'"· outhnt- of a garmcut t'lr •.md'it :ts
·spnnc· or expn"t-d lo p uf th~ d ft unJ r th 11
womb} au indivi~hml, .;uch as shupclr or flowing Hn~
end 11u<:luopofmrcadl'•dnmnupmt rh In t f
Stt h A fiber cxrru ..lcd b) dw silk" ,1nn m fonmng :1 dH! uc durm.g wear: prcH~unn._q the ;un n m oop)n ng
c:oconn "ht'h is pro.:\~,scd and \HlYcn imo fabric. The addmg l'b"ucn~ to the OC" nnd hdpmg Jt h 1.: , t'
"II.: thrc.td is :1lmo~1 :1s .-,trong .t~ one of cqu:tl daamctcr shup~ ~upt"rinr nt-cktt~.: .:tJ"C h md ~tp stH } d
in srcd Stlk i~ .tl~o cxrrcmdy ri!..,llknt .mu r"t'-:il'ts
LOl'l~u ~JIOULDfH'i .\ pcna~n \\1th "h ulllcr:. h '
wnnkles. 1\ tltrct·-tont ll..'ngth strcn:hcd to tlu rc ami a
llH'rc than .n:cragc "'Iopt> to 1ht: m
hnlf icm \\ill o;ubsl·qm.·ntly rl..'\~rt to 1t:. t'nginallcngth
' l OlTiiH:Ol..l ~R A lnr coll..r wtth nmfl tnp d
1L" 11 ,\I·, -~~ •r 11,\ 1;
I< wr r: R; A :.1 i I{ Iugh c10" 11 cd
Ifill'!! rfn Ur Or ilU~laf put til rhc U!ld('~ld p JCJ '"I 'i
hut with ll rolled l·dgL' brim mndl' £1flu:-.ltOU!> o.:ilk
c,11.J1 collnrpomt rn ",t '~ ,n stifftn n thu pre~ nt ng
plush: US'Cd (Of\\ hit£' tic fi,nnaf \\'l'olt: I~CplllL'd h 1 h.tW
If fn>m L.,trhl:tg up ord{ '.\ n T~ ttn dun h \C
or lgimucd m Chinn .1 round r/-5. \\ hL·n n Cn nmnc)C
rcmo,~bll· ,sun" 6.1r l:mndt•rtn,g
horfl·r produced .t ~ilk wpper t"t>t' a ~lonsi'"·ur ll!!un
'"lw cani~'-1 tlw ~t}'lt' with him b.te'k t•J I r..:tlh'C -..u 11" \ d,,th .ddcrr c:m5cd b) r. htupd rn.-d
n ThL· hmn .tppl•~d to .llilckct
tNGLT lllt[I\S'J"J plnrc m a v.am
w:uMco.n. or outcrcoat w1th .t.singl{' :;ct of button~ 'MOf.d:-.;G Jt\c:t.rr Sun xEnl
st.'\\ n a short d1Hmu:e from r he c:dg~ of OtiC .. tdc \lt the
from .111d bunouholc:- 'c" n w th~ corrcspondmg s~Ar flRlM HAl Fl"lt ~tr.i\\ ot t:ID.n h t ' nit o1 r
posuaons llO the other iJc ..
bnm dl'"tgned to be mmrd dO\\ n tn fr. ut r '
~adc and up in b:;d..
INGI.l Cl!l 1 [ lw emiT of.t :;hlrt cuhl·r 5oft or .•
'ihtrclt •d o( om~ ducJ...ucss J1 Jllll) bt~ ~~~tent.'!f \\lth C"Ufi
~
'NlAf...ffi· :\ Iac~d Or!>np m h• 1
&lh un r
l111b, or hun.tms und ,1 mbber. ,.,oft:. ~r.d for 'po:n nJ aro.1 "
 H { H ~~ \ rnl! C ' oft utislmy: lc.lth~: r!, lv l':'tn~ u tth da ar uro; sull tmlfl'd' ..._u,dJ thn.mgf
1 g d .. 1 , 1 i" ~ f fh l..rn t gt\~ n :1 ~hurt ptlt• dt sr nng> dn-! t.n~t d .. tl~ w I \k III i'J.~Iuon. '' lu h
Jl ~ltli1 \ b..i I ke "UCJL· \\ t,; pmmpd)_ r.;.lbi the 'ltl Illkid. I ha• "'tho 1! 1\o

\ l \ I -\t indc!lo: lt red bad.a{ ~ h 1rdm~ r 1ut tmtform tod.n !-":UlJ "" lu It tht Lind ,f tu:
\ ln:Jb\ tbt: f n_g.l1m ·, funr.1J ,_('U..tU:..c- ft ~Ttl' < l l l \H .'\tt NU f~ H t \Pil
~lut.k~rd \\.1 uppt"~·th.. \.ltdvifthcsun.,r.l\'>
f .trr .u .1 gn: n h ,Ju: n ~ .t .ttreM:nt n rhc S.1o '!'INti· \ lc:mrng (;)n~ard pn.,tua• thilt rcqtttre•
f fl .,_c; c\1'J mcJ b rtte prt..HihU.k Ll~ th.u •rt{'H the c to h.n l'>l shoncr fr mr bJI m , .m 11. n ro.:r
.11

I lpJ IH.Hl&\1' L •h.lr r 1\ red l ,J.I\ 1!1 .1 '\ lkll b:~d..: lmgrh. The oppn..-rth ul .m ~r c:; pn m
~ru r. t\ dl ,u.uing b~ ..n \ v h tf ;JO,
~ n \lt.H:I rc11NT L\Jll ~~oR. tr pagr J .!6 md 1 ~''
' -\ r \n .l 1ktc; ~' ~ L. nn~1n b 'X doth Um n "". m l~t: r
~I l P \ f:"L.,.Lt'rH.•t' \\ •th J p.tn or bun~•n bad;, t l1' tht>
t Till ~p r-. cxtund .bl')\'t." rht llnU~.: ;lli: f<t<ih•w·d ,tt
lh•s •m vi •1 ft)r.nt.u ...flln h ltlll h~ m.t.l~. ftchlk--d
~•th budd~: ur buu '>OJ. .mJ .1re hdd UJhh·r
mcol. pearJ. n calor,cd ·.wm'. ur ~n;'ltm'l (~« 1 rc.•J
rh c; 11 •! dT shoe v. tb strap md bud•. k--..: lbt•
\:.t Ill'\." l"agt 1~6.)
\ r~ .m .thhr~ tannn •l 'lpJm rJ ,fu·s tkttL.'(.' lugh
\ nob lonUL.rJ w.~.:J ag.~in....,"t mud .md W:Jtt.·r) !)L f.ni lcaLhtr tfuu h.1-. been ~ufft-d f(l l 11rK n.1p l'r
h!h o.'t ftJII }J 110 the flL-sb othlllC'f 'ild~ of tht: sku •flu•
..,r, r l '! < It• ""·' th!&: \\h n r :y•· nt"Jt~ht '3!.5
ch u I t m 1rr.;n c:d m orJ r • f dt~·ar \\ Jh: \\ tu-d ,,. dem~J tn'm ~:1,'dt, rht· h'(."rt..h uanw tt1r
tu.l~:t 1 ·•hg ~lut.• gr. n ll \\ ur.n g' n:d ''\ dc11 .. "' lwrc rh!! prru:t'>:'i \.lng_tn..Hed
l N'HO f St'{ '\OL-\.RI
n l1r t~ a ~u.. r \ JJ r t: •' •at \\ JUtt ut tt~
n tlK: ~.:~tt~mn .:uunn l.t•rd "'E ~u..~r ,tnod '"'h St:cr•rRH"' \\ HliT. 1\n ahcniu 'n b\ addmg more sii.JfX'
th t Tt. d C.Jugh• h ~ t.Ul.thglu Ilh· ~mcd .tt the WJI"tltne ofn gannr:nt
\' d '~ .tnJ spc'"n"cr Mu:J the· ft. ult1ng '-!\I,•
\ r i..t \\ n b.~.,"'.., the 11 - lh • bum lrt!~Z :f '-t IlL;[()~~ ~,-·u r. \ L.maJuH ~,..pr~'""' n i\11 J.lt:kc
~uft .. Y.tth M••rking bLttr mhotcs
1r Hl \ I .. J .t•tt m!i 'itllln ,nuJI tll 1\l'l
:J ft r • •..{. 1r Ir ~ l" ~: rigut.alf ~ ,J .:n ru thl" \ t I;.J L'\1 01: R.' .Srt p:tb'lt! .:.22
r J ' l:i l rn.. r lU rhc. f.t ,£ l nJ ,f 1 ond.Jn \\ hen•
' " -\.tLlnn·NII t:O!\ r rite old F.l.shh:mfXI nun~ t(. r a
tfu lfu tMl t \h " ~p IJ~.:J ftt•rn rl,1f1U' ctd\·d T\11 f.IHT
.it m 1-J:- w •-- 1 tfu ltt·n m lit! f I '"" , .. " ,,Jk
p u mg u:n .... (~.. ~~ 1'>2)
\ t -pc of mrc-rcrr.u h uddn Jc: ''!.ty'
u• t tlu: fr:nm lntt l~trnung a rngbn
I U f El ~ h 1~ 1 pl.un .1nd ch1~ll1~ \HW~ u m• ltllh
r r t lt:.mc· ...xh udm~ .-u 111 .tfl}~k from
rl t um!t tl!ll
i.1bra.. \\ ARI' .md r 11 r P•.(, an 1lm(1 J 1f thL '~:.:tnt
cmuu faffi: m '" fr,,m du.• l'crst.m ''ord tufi.Jr nu o~niu!!
\ hu1 11 pn , ! u lltll .1pphrd r 1 ~\\!'-ted ~ \\u\ c·u.
i \ 1 d- hlf [h u !1. t llp It J.ll
t 1 f bru: rh .1 \\; t11.p 11p.· 1r l .tm I \II l.:t.t:\1 1: \fl," \\ !\11 UW fAll l LH f ~(t p.t~c .l.~
J p..i."!f • n J t"\ lu dLr. 1 "tl \N I ht· ];JpJJt~t.: h:Jh• wnrn pl.ud tot
h L! pun •., tri rn 1
\:c-Ulltn ~ but oul) tha• "u•tttsh 1h)3hlotu d \. (.\n~ y, '"'
..f ,I~,. 1 ful cro .;-cht.'<"'lcd pl.nd ns J nu ans 1 •f
J Hr h I U P bUt h t lJ 'l
1 L-\. "rc pJ~t 1..11' • t ) tdt nrtl1aunu I h~· \\or.! formcrh !ipcllcd tdf.fa m
\\J bumml~ fro:ln tbr r ngh!llt. wh '1 \ltk it f m th
r I H 1p:un,:b term nl'lt,tM Th '-p.tm~h gJ\4. tht naml h.
J.. \\ 1 •L • !I 1rr ftl t 1f 11. 'ipl.IU uth Jfll l tn.m 1lor!~ .t...., t':tt h.d~ .a-, the thu t t>Uth ~ IU'-ln I he
I t n t bnc ~t::r l.Wih \\Ufi Urt;m [n d.t) aud ,fq1t Uthl r thf'!lll m
n•~tr Ln an JC.ut l al\!d( Hid (ntl\\ knn\\n J•, ,._orfnnl'l)
!r m:r I fi l .u HC \ ()ttft
rh 1£·~ of t»L.lllllcc:ned to J~<.nnpnJtlh\; dum
\ I[ \J I
' t ~t m :.fun Itt 1f IX'r t r Jturt thr d n ~fthl ~uttt<h I hghlund..
umL ;::J I ft ·In I.') .t
f n'l ft.' !:t I '\ chCL kJ: d p;UWtll f rmcJ b\ \ rmnl
••• f .
(, ~ rm f. 1' • rr~ n {L1'Jn
mt.f b uwnt;allmt w udlh HI r. ,,,J,tr"!<< f.)n ~ t1ght l,
q
r mthuh ~ l 11
{ f n::J \ OU'i p •c: -l I 1 k~muod. I t r:'CJ6 fttr.h:u I I Jlh: ~11 h und".J J
h 1 m ;da·r m l -;nd m Tuttcr.>i.11l ~ ~Aht h <"' •nuaalh
R~ (j
·~ il n I ,, 1 ntH ' ..-s:m:l\..l\a• h.u •~ml '• ro ilJL f, '" bl.mk<t
Uf'O<'"
It r.l lc. h.: r.rct('tLSU• pl:tt,f u dun fane h ~ ,mg Jr nght
(
F -4 ,_1{ \\ lni."h bt·,.,.m( ktJo\HJ ., t.Jtlt.. r" U" h w: Dna
d tr IC1l hr Uk I b\ p rr ~1¢U h ndtnJ! '\\..iL';J1. .m toda\ the
d t I •i rJ tern I fi tttJd
1Jm ( 1 \&!J'\ l} pL U
ill ~~.
u .J J•tr T 'I (s W\'-.;. r p.t~,. rr 1 \\ mrer ;ancf
f ~ th t L t •t 'n f
' !; • un me-r u• tlt !shu:t hhn ~nd IJ )
 ltU ..,. Dl'f t IU m N nil' f lt or UJ\\ h r
r.Lm 11 uf
"I'<' ,.. d \\ 1d1 ., il tt r 1p .1 nd :m l'\ cu hl tglu . tlh sdt
)U l'Ottl\. I' IE

JI ~ Ill \Titp.;~ T JI 11Je fur.:c p and

tnt: Ufc: d 1
p~.:r~qu.lr, 111ch proth runus. rhat 1 (Ilm .. tlf..J jh r
t.:.UJ \Hdl t ud \Hthour l n...1tmg

1 P\T L. R l Ill<: ur ftu.• llf.t f.tbn. \\It 1her o;m , 1h

mugh ur •rrcgubr Ongmalh :1" "~..:' f:tbn (1h
\\ orcl Jem ~.·d trom Lill lrttru tatura me.1uang \d }

I HI ...: ND llll N A tr~hn~ ""'"n \\rth unc\dl T\. IIII '- I 1 ~>. II \
t Xllll •.d )lr!J hl .:r,~:ltc ~:h~ t'fit.•ctc,f.t hom~!o.pun dod1 lltl ~t 11 I .1\T J ~ubJ
1lt Ro 1 I he part ,,j tlao:' "hue .ll rlu l N '1"11 I'\\ h~n \\0\t:U b;rnl1
OU )llg

the'\ \M l' l.}pl th "I' wd f n-1.t nt m th 1 1U r \... r 1

1 1 at~ rpru f mtlt- n

u A t~ur orfhu uidt stup•lfdorh
IHit\,\1 l !\Tt umt !mdt:p nm~m
JUndacd t•• lhc lt,;H llltllcr rullnn\ nh t hunonh• lr .11 l. Htrut. I r' .:~r m th I l
on~ cHcltlt:.H can be qmppcd ..tc-ro~s rltr.: t~d. to J:,.,, n t lLC'" m \\\\I r
tC3 a butron on tlw opp(l'>it(" undc: r et'fl:tr" h1 n 1h~.: '' r wo he·;. .snd m11. mi
pck~t <; c..1lbr '" mritcd up round on rugged p H1 l:ltn~. :n \\cr rud ~ t.an: f
J·''- L:ct" .tnd Ult\."ndcd w p!t.lt~o t hu n~ck frn111 r.tJJJ or tht pn~ fi:·d rtLltcn I ·a.' JilU
mid (.St~ J.\du.or. pag .l.C11 ) b.td h!t!h•
h.mn c: ll.tno bu u
\\ nh pa..,dl ibp. \ .•m m" r; Lli t l
TIL KET l'OlJ(E r Bnush tailoring 1~nn lorn o;mall lhm~d thl hangm 0 ft:qu•pn
p0rkN lhU,lll} fl..ppcd. plact!d abn\c the rcgul.tr \\a~ b nt I Jolh ood rtLld t rlli :m.;
•
po\;kcl ~..ln the right ~1de of :t man\ swt COlt or md ~~.rt 1 .tc~m
.._ ..
O\crcn;n 1ntrt,ducl.'d ut rhi.' lara.: 18~ "fur .1 r:ulm.td
ucl.ct :1nd used at imcn .ll~ CH!r .. in.:c AI -.o Lntm n :Ll" 1
rnL-\1 (JI('r[ Th m t c pt 1 1 I
cu tnm madt or,hl \ h: t p;t r c
~c.t'h pOt·k,·t ·· (,'it't' p.lg~~~ ~~. 130)
1~:: :nlu.: r hoc~ '" d· m: from th 11p
fll l 1 II' .\ ~pring lua.dcd f'astcnc1 used w cl1p rl1c ''·1lk .llwmm" rdut fit1.1l d,u~rnu m 1
t\\n p~.·11dmn ~nds 1.li th~..· til..· h) th(." :.hirt lntt·rmmeml} the LJ\'i r pnon.tJ cte•lting rht: hr.-.r C.r 1 h
t:~'>hiun.lblc sill~t· the fi.J.!{}.). (Sec' pag<.· .uS)
I Rl l 1\ )ouch h.:h h t \\ trh "-hi li
\
T1 r PA~;f Su f'otgt: L! 1 :mJ cop} on 1 ht.• l n 1t 11m o.t'
1 ongrnoll, worn m fngl nd b J h rr 1, r
page 12.2. Cc f:h'<' du M mr4crpJ4 .tb lut l fl
TIT. rl\r....h:· \ l~sai."nmg dc\'icc .:tmJ~i~tmg o( 1\\0 pans
H•ng:tfl \\ Juch \\.1' :uhpic.d nm h I
Trslh) ( « p. gt I i9 )
an out<· r decomti,·e head hackt•J bra pin rh:n p~t~r..:cs
through t11c ncrkti~..· and top l::trcr of ·han pl.trkct l1I U Ll <\ ..;,rrd •'f '>tnng .uou11J lh I
coJuto:rmg to a pmth IJpr: fiHrcncr undcrr1C'.uh cndmg rn .:1 bunnn nu~ bl dt> f th
\\OU}d :InCh\ r th~ butt 11 II bt J 1 r
1"1 1'1'1 NG. rill' in~u.k liuint! ~Cell ull the b)ndc and hnt [rum! ulmg vff \\1ten b1 ... IUJ.F,
..
und~'!l" end uf .1 nc uftcn m:n.. hutl!. the ·hade of dw tu:
1noru u. ..\ oR.s rrn \ .. run'n b u tr
u.;l If ·lop-tlr.n\ N 1 c" 1 1F s u-.c silk tippmg m .. h~ad <'r .1
\\UTHr.:d '\Uttlllgm:ti.l•A] "c'ghmg U l
~} lllhCllC \Jso, I irptng Ollt:\ h:H. lOU Up )'OUr h~H
uunre" per' ard made 111 :1 \ ru \ t1t pl.un
I•Jd:t} becnusc 111 thL· day:s of dii\:llf} thl! kmgln
\\c:l\'i'~ with 1,\ l ph nr nglc rl. ' ttl
rc.•mo\cd hi ... hdmcf •)f rais\?d hi;\ \'~:-nr .t:- Jnd TILLJ"lt. ( cr- pnng" mlf '-itttnnh
:t~:krhl" lc,lgnwut that hl" '' ,l.S aulong li1e1hb f-alu:-Jc" ... l!,.m·l'i,fd )
I 01 Ul"~:X \ ·uff. ~dtdl sh.1pcd pic.:-1.' of leathe-r pl.tc1•d Ttt\11.: stR· r.:uu. gamu nr fn m rh ~ .;u ;
LH•twcc" :1 shoe\ lining :111d tip w m:Hnmin ir.- conn.Hu' but unt <"m mng rhe 1 n~t -.1
ti.ut \ ten I t
ami prrnmnent ~hapt' .mJ e.1rh Olll!"ltr'L'nrh c nmr tor I,,..,_.,.• ll

10! I)J'IUNl~ 1"111: ~lisrauco..: fn)lu tbt• grN1nd to rhc ~\om pamcuhri) b\ -.ul•m· '-OtdiJ:
tr~ad -.udi1cc of-t he •ole ;tt rhe cxrrt.~mC' np of tlw h•C.
,,mi:t.•r: \ft-. r rh!! W.u af J 11 lT
\\001 1ll the l OltCd li:ITC" In h: J f
\dm:·h g1"'' the fi'L' it<~ .l'.l1ghrh mrned up cffo.:c:r
Mud:mg~ '' ludt -e~'"ttlCd h o Bnu h I J
1l.lN 1 11ll' qunlit' or' :1Ju,.. of n cnlo.r l,glucm:d \\ 1th tntu!S(t'. mt'.tnlllg ru..'ked up~
rhc o.~dditt1111 uf" h1tc 01 dark<•nc~.l b\ t h nJ.1m m oi n~ol I R JU: o\s-l! llnguull tr USC
hlud. or gr.t\
J(l\\ n the ~td · (.IS m rht' ,JJ "'"'
JONl.ll \ lrnrhl•f 1l.1p .ura~hcd IL' th(' HlSh.lt' ot outside "h~n m dc:g:mm fr~t.. c..uttd {yu...
of a ~hO<!'r. ''PP''r tu prc:•rc<"t tht.· lacing .u.::t fnlm fnl·tmn .u th 11crh\ h , m m 1 p IT !!
pressure and perh'tr:trion h} c:\'trUtt1·<1U~ object- .,h 'lfl'h i ron "'"i fr uu ..-re.l l't
 r (.:. ) l(l ' brq!hr ~ rkt d r.~nn d\ "k fl\ l'd T\\ t. "T 1 h~ tummg •I the y:tnl t"llht..•r t • t1t f,•tt ('\
• .W.k.- tum: auJ lh"l\\ mtJ. dtt•fllh·all r \ l<t) (.tr n tht• rt!!ht (l t\\ r»r) tn prq"'.u• • tm
Jl 1U-o I P~> f ' f.tapkJt u..·rm f r troU r (."\Iff.~
\h. .l\ tnf! uno .l
'
tJhrK... '\l!iJ..t woolc n •r \\ ur..1 J uf
.,, ht~h tit.:\ •lrtl!i 11-r nude oi rwo l. ,lot' duuhlcd .or
" 'l H
C\H"tcd tu~wdmr t I' llh.'tn llntlftLd .pp .n.u a:
I 11 \ \.a ut pu ),"\\l!r "''"'' 1 1 l"ng rnJ th u
11 ~l'»l Ft'" Jl U \ rtntgh tt.:\ttu~J fdt lr\-tll1Uf !..11
I p-r J (l"',IJr th.· he tJ mJ thr.:n r.ohrJ l • lu fu h
\\nla .l<olntrplr i.!p.1.•n•d kO\\N 1 n trr; )\\ lmrn turncJ
t n.:d. nd~ ·n "" I , rton • r l•lt nLlc·d
Ui' tu l•J(k md ,{own tn fn:n1r llnJ 1 • urd l) p• ,,fbaud
l I f { &!&; m 1 h.: rRf>i !:: t tr UlLI'I ropuiJr Ill
Jccurttt..:J v.uh .1 fi•Jdwr bru>th muunt .1!'" ''"L;ttc.U '\lth
h ht 1 !u'J r•; ' n.~l\t!d m rht: mt·u~ ltir 1111..'11
th.. \U!ilri.!Jt ·1) ml {S« J1<1!!<' .!O.f)
d 1: ~ 1 tnuJ t:
ttU'ltlal \\~ IT f\t. rJ.J;l .!hl)
Lt lloubiE· bn·.t'l"t.'l:l ftmg O\ r Jtt. '1 \ r U\ hell"}
rt;R
It "\ 1 n In llt~t• llLlt.thl~ f!.Mtl ,,! up:o.l lh; N._ \\
I\\ rt I l If M ll [\)'"' \\ irfn1 big Ct1l1~ c-rr rbk ..:olin I \\Hit
\ 1rk.1: r.. f U•tJ J du.• pOl tt!- duh lt :\:• tin r.1rJ.. llu11
lapds .tnd ."1 lt.l1( u1 .111 .tT"(mnJ lwh h ,,,, mtl"'(t lu\ 1
.,rr
u~ Jm I ro\l.n f'ntu.'f ua l hi"''"" 1tc t or 1.
h\ l1 n~ lf.N linn Ill the tS(•I)S lh thl" tttnl ltJ tftl'
t 1 nt' "J t fngl.tnJ \1 h ··~ tht Hh.'J rht: l'nn~.·~ ul •
r.·ntun 1n~lt'h fiL~hiou dct'"mt:~J dt.ll uo ll~tn Wlnld r:,t
\\ tl a •tu·r l•.JU f he rrin ' .lh"\:.t\ s fi,ullut l'll'tn
\H-ll (b: or;sctl ~\ ttht'ntr .1t h·$t UU•' l l'lti.'J m lu \\.mJ,·<'I' •
"'1\ ted d l'on•"r":.. tL\ "andn ngh.am Ill';
1 nt '~::n 1• .: \\ he1t \lr Pt •rt-cr tnt}Uil d l ~{'tl N TIU <. I El) \ It> 1tn u "t"U h) I hL Oll"ll \\ l'..t.r
t ' \: ' Jr. t.h.!: J rmct '>pul. ,j;1 hurt an~fuq 11 t•l dt.'M7Tibc n: ~oir up padded !Hit full} lined
t.h.tt I uJ 1I ptl'tl 11• pl..h..: of tlu t.a•k, •Jt t tilurcd pckt.·t J tctlll r•i'tcn rnr.:-undt'J"lh•u..l tu nh: .111

m •rLJ ~ th cl..~1tb.a or 11 ht "r mL I r'"i ~IIH.'ipt·u~.tH'.. t•r lm:kmgiui.ulonug 111 i.l!;.t hs.·tJu
1 • pf luu \ If I ( Jn Ill fUll n ght tln:r'C ,., uo lming tn ro' cr up tt!'t insidt s n• op· n
I I l'mn fl"\:•liJHtll rn-k•tl~:h.tr Pon..,·r gt:t ttt lw~ nueriur uircn rt.·quin..-:.. more t'1\.u.tjng lm~ lu~ .1nJ.
t m L nf' n ~tl n11..· t 'f h1m• U J' 'Hl'r L41 tlmo.; C""~>pensl.' tlJJn :.1 1\tllt ltncd Jat:ko.:t
,lfl r r II tlturJUI1'.! t\ • fit nJo J'nrk f !J.Jt f. 1J
L·~tC'N 'illT Llltkn,~ar,·uu"t"'tm~ofil-;hartand
f' r L nliJ..-J nJ 11fll"t duo m~.:utN r.> \\c:n .ftort., or p;mt" i11 onC'pt~.:ce
lftl ' j b' r tt r.. l'llr JJ d C\'Pit: :1 tltt ~~~" flldJC t:
m 1 •t ' 111ft: lrpmpn!l t: tha.n taaf f. •r lnformnl ll'l'fR fht: top t!IO\t pan •lf th~.: -h11,• Jt;:putdmg~'"
1111 \ t:J Hl6 • mt. ,f the fu\lc.Jn Ju~ d \h re :.luJL' t p~ <"OilSISt ang of (lllC ur IJll..ll"t: p trr:-. luwn lmmg
ft rl Jl 'th d fu'li ..~ l ~~ U ~.tdlcklr JutJWl •II '"'d~t hh.ing 'dth undL'lln) mllnr. linin~J,:athl~r
Ptl n 1 1ll .._.., r.u ( lite (uth t'tll'lt\· " ' bls~un..: m
V \~II' 'I11C' •lt.;"l IIIII i,.l ~tilt' ltppel p I rt Uf :.J ~btl~
rn1 n Ut~h t lw.H ""' dr~.: ''" t:,r dmnt·c~· lilt tc"ll'thhJI~ 1~&'\\,m:f In th..·nw ;:,11 .111d pJn "r .tilth~
.u r l l'c: \\ ~tC' .I (Oill'ih :.J ~IJd \\ ht ll wid ",,, to tire n·.11· -"-~>1111.
. 1\\ l m rl lru·n up Jll fuxt J ~n·· ctl f~r
l nn~: d tutur ll ...wn J rd~ll'llli: co th 1 u..L.·t ht \ El·l i \:lHI T\~Nt~'' lh old...~t and '""':-.t~•} tl
t u ul. 1;"\ fC ui '-hvv lc adll.'r i.anmng. "\\ hti!h U!.t.: UJtUro} h~ri.
JI r nJIJrJ t m ~~~IJ " nL'IIW onfirutt.'t.i or l''<tt'ltCl . ~nmdhnt.:!' ~L·m~ltlcd \\ith '~mlu. l•t..
rt .. Jth nJ ~ fuxL·dr ~-t \utumn B,1ll 1tt1m.l \ cg< r.tb.lc t.tnrlhl'-
n t 1I J , t• \lmnC'r dt.m u itllttt•r , \ J" 1 \ I I \ l fl J"' .,fh\rr p1Jc f.1hrtC"\\tlh J ·Ntun JIll I"'<<,
\
UJll \ Cf'ildll t1 J 1\11 J \\. t [ f tin tlf
lh..tr n·'-tmhlt: \doq:t u• d f,u ..malmy J.h.kr-. uttt
•• J t l ala t n .tl f, v·m.tJI ..t Ctrd m: t • <iplm h 1r {St p:!~ ~ · )
1p h
\luanu h t:t.'h. m 'Ill
1 u;,h kL\1
rI t~ n Ul(• ~hut t r f lim.tffih t4 I tlld \ t NI Tl !\~ \ lith \\olf",tc,ll" rll dl th \\ht•fl! th, \\!.PI
t rt 1 nt ~""\\ ucadtl pt. pular \\ uh dH t .1hnu: t 111 on dn:: urt:.h.:t 11 t h · d~;ttb ..lrt\1 1h, \\ 1 f 1
• :1 ·U l.tn~ J, rr g•) .-J \. llh •r n.rm l!'i ru rlw ~ td. Jlu: tt.tnk ts t.tk~n tmm d1c
I m kmg lt kt.l J 111 1 ~·~ (\a 1~sl UJhl.uttc ll•:Jts..•d w silk \t ncua.n.. .l Lh th <l r ;~I lrtl'·Hc
\.thh rhJt \\J"; nt.1dr.: 111 \cnf, l: Tht· ll01h t"'>!lJ 'tlrlt
h »;1JII1 d ""'~.:·~ \\ ur ...tc...l.u\..1 tn,td\ ,(\\'(~·I 01 ' l I I m I n
' h·llb urf l t.:~ u uf om ttl'rul ult WL,,;t,t ,.., tl\nl fi.11 -utt . nt~ )t 'I 1t5 .111d 1 ~J·r t• \1 "
I u 1f1 rl!fll fJ " ttl \1. t\t llttf
l \ • J ~ 11 gf t rlh IJill t.\l tit \r>qJ '>t ~1111 \i~f 11.lrmut•d"ilflC( th~ fiitc mh
rn It 11 rh Jr h J[Ul~
u.m Uf U lltliT Tel lllfiJ{ \1~· rl lrL;('"[IQfll{u 111 g.lrtlll:llt li"U.llh
Up t1 !~I f lw ~..tl,l .UIIII \ It
tnmt th~ 11 •m UJ'" ;ln;l ( ~l'l (r.J~ 88)
I R· l , ric i d •t: r t It \\ 1 \ I t lc.,_.. }tlrJIIt nt f....,J t bt. urpt: r b td·
\ oU1 t \
l l nJ h m h l •n,iut_r h' tltt" \\ .u t u tt.:tll ~' 'nl unJN J '-l.HJ IMk r
f u nd l lr I m t \l"t• l.:n mn 1 , \\.Jt tc t l:~t ' rn h}
t ''

I c rn lr m J r ~ 111d ~ ng U1.trl I I ( :u r<ft.,lm l'rn I"'• a

t m IS.lh \ 1 n u l• tht..""f 8 I~ Mt) I {Ill f dh H ~\ f.t...!ttf"'lll hL
t
h "t:J tl)r • k..t\\ l\: IJUb to 1 • f,WtiCIO f,
I r Uh \ rrh ..dulhl f ll,l!lmJ \\ J.~ u \\ tr
I hr. r~lb \r r 'H J.J · \\\I tr p<h r.t pl:t~~..d mthc Aid~.
l
• · rb • l.. hn c•t ·1 \ II l ~ :;JI vt .. \ r <;I • rt~hlJfry l \Clf
 I' d.( l '\\ th I n t l a.g o! l u:l \ u, rnL:J ' rl
J ,J \\ h.h tht>r fnrt d r I \ I m l
11 th '
H.lc.: f g:tnt t'llt ( I p:t~t JJ )

\ ''"' NA 1 h p II l I 1' t
Ul d h at I th~.; \1\."t.ltu ro11 Un 1 thi
11
hun ire l fi· r ab l :tl
I ,nJ m ul me l JJJ 1 l ' tWc o..>gt n dl l l
\ ICUn.t .ir • b ut rlm::c fc.--c h·J~lt h:n .tl I p I \\ J I I
t \ hc\l:.:u- ndpn.Juc· ,,.J, 1l,f I h l f l tu I
1! f I TXh ll ), 1 sh J
\\ t r
\Ill dN Wt•Ol \.\; ft t tint :Jh r
( USt'd fir J1r
ht~ng r-lrppt.: d fmm hc..-p tn mht r "'' r t \\ •nl tl1 1
l ' I'\: h..J run JlfC'o j(!U h bt l1 nt.ldt: tnto \ .J TII Of (.J h 1
!\I\~ \'·••tl.:
\ oru ~\o\1.'11 i'r<Qm fim: hard "'~Uit d prn~ \\lt~l
n:\\.'tl!e rnt r \\ •\ltl' rhrl'.1d' tln pbtn tuhru:- 1
ltgJu,w,~lu •twl and rlf) Hccruht I 11 twt•rnc s
OUt.: dt 05~ \lllll'i .1ft" madr.: \\ u:h doubk Ill ~· rr\l:Ul
m<l \\. n1 prunanlr t(,r ''. rm \h .trher \ l o1 n•p•t 11 'HI llil.l Jt: n \ 1J
f th l.mn ,.,}a, \\ lucll unplte~ .1 t:ovc.•nn1• «!UrtJ.m flul • 1 \\ U t~' J
f..)r ;:u)
\ Hl
\\ t\1 ~ T llw n.trro\\T<I£ p.tn uf the tan;u :md
\\AI\ r t.:I'I'ItE~.!lJON 1 hl' addmou pf~hnpc at du· t:np
'' 1o;tlm~ oi a g:trmcnt betn
b rJ

sr 1.:' ., (' pa c;: 9

\\ r s r or l " I !'! n Fu
l~ \LIT) rcputatt :m n adt.•m c U"tn h t.n
. ~ oa )It d "'u:h th~.: t~' did J1
....1here 1~' lwrdlr ,1nythi11g nt the 1\'tlrld rhat 3rOUHd .md U \bt:Jdn
[I'{IUJ
It igh ~md Irm ~hadtn_g th r
:·mnc man cclml(lf 111akc a linle worse a11d sdl t11 n: dtmLJn mn h th
flanncl (.'lu lJ r 1;. • per p.1 4~
a little theaper aud the peoplr ,,]w CL"lnsidcr \\ HJl Tlu h..u:J m 1 tru
<:'Rl" rr
l1..1s d agmul rib;, !, pmmm tt
prt(t' ,lfoHc are this 11ltl11 sltnt~j1tl pr.:y. '' Rrtslan boldh 111 :.1 k1ncl oi r 11 d ff
1

IJ h ( wiup t • m h ch n d
range.~ lrom 11. t 2l

\\ Hl 11 "\..-hronun
\\ .\l 'i I 8 \N Jl f n•arcnal rn nnmg .mmnd t ht.:
Jl1c ti ip 0 bla.. k to \\hut: ..;.c.tle
rop nf the Tn.OUSI u .:md formtng a t1ni~h lo trou cr colur' of the pearun r.tu~ml! 111 " ...
tops usually 1:1Cl-d :.md tm:erl.tc:('d nnd zhcu sc.uncJ w h1ng~.: t to tht: slmrt
the watM line nf tr.cntsL·~ \' lit Jf ON WH fT[ In" h:-tm ppl
\\ hitt: figttfc'- or:stnpes 1 h tr..
\\
o:lruwt..... \\c:J\CGl~!'dab th It l
\\ Al"li1 1.1 N 1 .'\ 11 im i.:.iblc lm:ing hnt• '~ !.t:tt> wais-t
'ltrppr~·.s..,ton ts m:tde WHITJ 1 H. f he term fi r

''ARt• Y.trn tlt.urun~ l~.:ngrlmt:>t tn.tlQOrn .md \'\ 11 KJ c.. 1 he .atulm ~~ .1 fibc; t t
ro..:~cd h) thl' \\ t 1 1 The 'varp prn gene rail) 11111~ frum unc :s<"cttoo of-dt\: g.~nn 1 h.
\cfllc:nlh·tn adot.h org:tmtt:nt as\.1ppos(;d wthc pcr'$prr.m 'fi I' Oatl"porRJ .tJ n~ tl L: h 1

Fl UJ. u } Jfn. or\\ c.fr whu::h run~ crosswu} s from t h~ \lUtdt o;uriJ c of th :iarlt tl
<ichngc Lu .;dvag~ nno,phert'

\\A rc..H Pl"'lCh.I r !\ small pocket m r.h" srdc from of.1 \\ I IlO\\,k-..;; f (f - \ \ mer HJ rn
man l; tTousers. u~ualh of tht: \h:lt st}lc- u~cd to c..trq .1 l.1bri-(; g.nd~ ld p~t ' c:
\\Oltdt ~ISQ l...11lcd a fob p lCket-
\\ INI S\. Rl LL~ '\n Jlt :f d t

\\ J ~'V r
IN<;, 111\: rnh: rrro::sing a tWO ~"1: t-. of ).lnl tlll \\lth (l{ tJU'<; dut are ru
\.' ARI' \\ltr... h run:s dt•\\n tht: length of the doth nJ , ,1ll.ar but l( ~n r.• ""'" ~ ·
the 'v'
1T '' hu:.h nms ncms... rlu Whhl1 In knuu tg UT5l "~~rn h) the Dol,

\\ 1"'-![!-,(llt t:~r .\ brgt.> nccl.:t11: knm ut•t.i an a ~f'Ct."'tal
1 d1c prinu•d ri~ \\ lu, h musr rdr on ns inner :urnatul'\'
nunru.•r \\ nh l!);tr.t loor" lr io: insp1red l•) but fal!it'l)
ttnbuk'ti m tltr [lul:e of" tndror (Sr( flt,ugla.;
L.1irktnL p:tgt· l.lt.J pag(! 2SU )
\\ l~h l.l ll I. \R. S?f p~e 2:JU
\\.11'.\a riP «pagt! t«14
\\V(1L- I iber~ timu Ul.(' (0\trJng t:oat ufslti!cp ~nd
t.nhcr .mmul< 11Im \\uWJt knm:ed or fclt~d filllrll"
pro l({u tad from th~ tiber
"(.ltlLl ~ n e; n~-t l'fllet:<>::. of ... unlllg
.scouring.
blc.nd..ing. otUug conJing. :mtl r;pinning prn c1i :.hon
t:.lbic!i \\:JMt• ..n1d rev.urLcd '' ool. "tbru... 1ka h;wc
bt-cn t'ltrdcd .n1J ~un fmm w<.tol in'' hich .u1rth111g
bur a par.;tlld po!itwn of tbc iihen; •"' nonct•.tblc a~
d1 uncr from \Hltsicd) ;am Ht '\\ h1ch th~~.· wdol flbc1:; ~re
mat kedl) ~ralldcd
\\OR:..'- lNG lit rr Nltt'LPi J.1ckct sleeve buttonhole:.
th.1t .:tetwlh unbutton (Sa page 1 ~4 )
\\,'lR'HHl BHJur.: d~r smooth imndcd tnbric in
\\ h•ch the nructurc and coiPr ar\.~ dc.1rh dell ned .
•
' \ mg til the de;ames~ and smoothness of both the
pn1 nd mtcrbd11g
\'" RHID \1 ~Tf M Pnlccs.~ ofcnr~ltng. combjng.
tlro\\ mg. and ~pmning wot..o;red fib,~r.s int• ) .m1 lor
m.mutt:lurc mm ~~ted cloths
\\ORHJif' "1..\RN:o:i M:1JL' frcm ti1mhmg the \\l•t'llcn
(rhcr> ~o th n clu.1 fi,, pJt.1JJcl til t::Jt"h nth<-.r, then dra\\ fhg
,md ugltrl) n~ l~{m~ tht! 'i1nooth )·lrll. th~ rmmc comc.s
from 11 little vtllagt" 111 Nt-'rfoU:, \\ar-;tc:td
\Vt'JHN 1u .\ da!'i nf11cd:wc,3r fnbru:: in \~hkh the
JUttcrn 1fl p.trt of r~ wca\'c d.S nppo ..cd m prum.
crobmtdttrlco; anti lund pautt8 \\here llu.• p·ntcm t<J
.1p-plrtJ :~ft~r the f:ilirk 1.'0 \\U\'<'11 \ 11 rc:•mlt of rile
~ \Cn JUt 'r.n" more tc'\;tured ru-~J thn:kcr i:tbru:, uus
ncckur fu nto~ bach. thus miling .1 her ter 1-:J,~, 1han
- -
-- ----~
for its fi•r111 nnd 'it.llllrc, (St't pag~: tlr,.)
\VRAI' COAr· A loose fimng. n1.sua.ll} bdltd
b:nlambc-lrkt' co;.~r with turucd·up Ctll1.1t inrmduccJ In
lt~tdc~rt and lloUp,ik•d during tfw-e1rlr IQ~n:; usu II\
in C;\Mfli-lAlR or ~oft flecee
)A IU >· Unit o£ m~asun... equal to thu'tl !ill\Jnclu. m
.\llh!t;k.t. the Fuglhh rnr~f i'l.ll M<lTH.IaJ·d CS\abJi .. hcd b)
th<! g•.l1.'Crnmcm. ihoiW~tcd h) two fll.Jd.s on n meud
rod embcdd~,l in rlt£" m:•~·•myin the I luusr of
I'::trl iamcm. or n.q q me tcr.
)ARN-D'l ID .\ fnbt'I0:\\0\l'll \\lJh )"anlS that lt;t\t:
:1lre:hlt lot.oell d}~·d. :1:- op.pu:-ed to piL·c:c:-,dp.:d, where rh.
fabri\· tS fir.sr WU\'Cn and then dyed.
)'OKl· The fubnc fit~o.-d Q\'Cr thl! houldr:rs n:ncl jotnl!'d
w thL· lowe•· p.Lrt of the g:umcm ~r a' l"ibl~ 'iC:un
:.nos:\ the "·he:.'f or ba.:k (Srr t,;l.trk G.1blc, p.agl" 106)
ZEPU YR ,\ )"dnt offight\\'dglu W(.iRSTI:ll, .ottr:n
blended '"'ith other fibc1-s: also. pplic5 to a s-heer. soft.
woolc.n f.'tbrlc The name. is From Ztj!hyrus. d;~ss1al god
(>r the wcs [\\ md.
ZOOT -uJ r· Outr.Jgt•ou!i snit worn b :-~omc HJttng
hipstc.•r_.., in lhc I.u~ 1910~. ll)40ll. ~UJd ~arl) ll'l~o~
rcf(•rn:d lu 4l\ .. tilt? bndgc of the ho<,dlt Jml' ~The rnc~r't
Jmd hca\'ltr padJt\1. sq(ll1rc ~h"uldl!rs :1 1:tpcrcd \\ .1i'>t,
:wd cxh:ncled :tltnoo;t ro tht: knees. It~ h:1gg~ ·koggcd
tr('llo;cr, mcasuring:\lmv t th1rq rwu inches .u the
knc~ ;tnJ Lap~: ring dm\ 11 1\l twch:e n-;1 flftccn inlhL-s nr
bt.'ltH'llll, "a~ J·lt:kl'd up alnmsr rn t:hl.' chest by
~thpcndc.: B \Vom wirh cquaih· btZlrrc :t~Ld ''"~
lrkc st-..: foot kt:y r:hnms. :;nakc tlt!~ roll collan.-d slurt...
tutd wtde bornmcd head \War th1' t:t,lorful coo;tumc
repr\!~;~:ntcd au carl} rebcllion of \nJcnc~,·~ h." "
for~un.t[(.• t\juths ag.1iosr the conformt!.>t order
. -
 ELECl-E 1) 131 I3LI OG Jv\P I ·I Y

mr.:r il.lll I abnc~ Magazam• cdc; .'\F l n.l'llOpt·Jia o(Tcx J l.trt \' riJ Tirs \ f);A PuhLt ..uon t~1 t X
ulcr l'rrnn ..-c ll.Jil tl)C,u
llo~·hs.\\ ,·udt."f: \\ ~"~' Mm tn MfL Rwl ola
\mit·~ ll:trd) T/lt. I:11gltSlmum'S- Sui1 Q!_lartrt Uo t..,
1994 J lull.mdl"r Annl mend Suu fm f :.rw1
Hrm f IIL)Jlf 19<14
\llgt•lom Umbconu. rlrr il~tUii1111li(of4. ~tyft '" I.JIIc'S l.l•J1fl
l uiwrse l,uhli~hing . .!<JOO ht" .,...,. Paul A l~mfl't:tffls U:i.!r.lrurtt J l.1.rmun 1 ~-

Und11 ~H:h, 1\L'rt. IU.f}ll l Jrtsi A ~- 1\n rtll!.<i, 19~S l,) U.1k1'a l.uJrmLl Olg.1 J lcriu.-n .;11 ,l 1du

l .1 ntan'l\';.L Th, PrdMTa} l.nry. fCIJ r.fur .il il:dmm f bntl n

lbkur: \\ ·m i.ll n lll·nr} J~ Dll1'fioun'1' ~~{Mens Wtar \\ t1 J ')(,/'~
H11kc1~ ll}C,$
I .IH"r l:tnlc!i TJu Ut1ol: !!.f"trll<lCil Lnn mtr } '\rrJ 1 \
HL•rcruh. Jphn, .1nd tltt~ cduurs ull.!'·~uirc Magazm< 1Oltt ·md Club rra ~·drr 't·n JL"t &l 1) 1 ,.,x
F.irlwmsjill' Alcn, I l.trpL·r & f<Jl\\. 19(>6
nmJra \\ e-td(•nidd .& hhcoJ n 1 c~
Uorcr t, 1\tm'(" llt.~atlfr· .r\ Gmdr to Q_uafit}'"' Mc-ll.nl'l'ar
L.c·mus <..l.sc~tr A \\d]H~Grrultm. J LL.-~u.w.U
Norton, J 98).
l'rJrJJI. 1998
l·mmrrrtl}'Sflitab/f;. T/11~ fknrmrs t!(SI)•Ic· iul!ruwm
\rtrn·. Nt1rtnrJ JlJlJO
I C'llr r: K:Jthcnne Murn nJ Ul \ t (. r "
X~riuoJnrt"s..r Chas-lc:- '-\ Bcnnl"U PuhJacnt1 tn I') JC
Hril{gland. J\ S.. t•d Tire: i\lt.'lcftrn ·1;zilor. Ou!Jrttrr, Clotl!lrr, 3
lunc, Ah'iPn Tl:r Ltni~.~l' '!.fclc:lu~ 1.. )v.l ht ' l•J -.
\OillfiiCS. L:JXWJl PubJi~hiug. l')~O
Mel )o\H~Jl CuiiJl Jlllti. Rl:uah 1")').1
Buzz.tcr:tri ni. V1 ttor i:t t.le. Ekianu .md St}'lt'. Til'il llundaJ
1e.ars '!f.\ 1m's Iitslrimu. Lupl'ru u: Co_, ll)ll.l TIII'.ManL!{ra!lucm -1 h mL· & Hmhntt "~.....
. ,\ fc·rrh:,•ITrs / Jnfi !'diton. 1986. Mnlossi t.:tinunmo. OrtOJundrcJ)i..JtHr{ltJLa., \1i%u ll:
_g.JII.:t rleomnd Lb:t.ra f'•9Q
B} nfc:, P~rwlupL·. 'tht \liclc lmllgt" .Mms litslrionsi11 1J1 ir.drr,
nllo 1:110. B. 1: Hnt..s(onl. 1LJ'N· ~l:mm. Rich.u·d ~to,ll farold 1-..ur.s:b }~.: Lmrd 1'\~r.U
Alt'ns Nrlc rntlrr 'fi~WmJCzlt CtrliUf) RrnoJ. 19 <J
CIJailll·, hall\Ois Tlrl'lluok ti{Tics. t\bbl·\·illt-. 1q9o+.
~ Ia} ~OfllJ\'c. ')ht:!T). Ul!JJJII'•'ll't'r J\nght Hm•l ~ .!t 1.1li
Chcnnnnc. r-arid. J\ J li>t~try·tJfM,ms rasllimrs rl:111HI131 ion.
19•.n Mollo~. )~Jhn r Drtsl.fM :,um::s ".lrtll r lll"'1ll

I )nnncr. Jane. r.ul1iou i11 tiJ( T11'1:111iu a11J Tlurti,·s. lnu Piifcni. rnzr, Mt$~ CrJ\'Jtla.! lJuri, c: I· I' I Jll 1f8
All.m, II.J7 3 schol.'mcr: <.) F. and\\ dltaml..aiL" 1 Si:JUI1'(lJJU)"l pJJ
fl us ..c r. A b n CIMI!a au,ltlw .\1an: Tlu· Pn'trc1plrs ~fl"Jttc· qf2Mlr CmtuJ)' .Wm-5 Fol!I:J\IIU. i\k{.; ra\\ I !all Jq- ~
.\fc'ns nr,·$s. Vill:1rll. 19X;;. Store. Doroth} ~len 1ilD \\ 'tatCl,tl/rr.I. l.tpprn ::un:.. rq=a
. J\ l,lkin...~ tlrl' Man \\:1.llah}. 1981. \ '.1~' 1 aszlo and Ma.,gda \tolnar H.mdm.:rlr Sl.. 1: \ft'n
.Sty!L iJIJd the Mun: f luw ,w,! \.\'lrm·w Bur Fi11r \I£~11F Ron~mann 1999
Clorht·s. I brpl.' rCull im.. 19 ") 6 \ ill:aro~a. RKC".ltdo. :md Gmlnuo \ugdt T'r.. tltgJal
lulledllrl·. Guiliano ,\ftru liars. Zanll [Juoni. lfJ'H'l \tun=I low,,, G•r<:7Tlla tl:!ik.Jl \\ m-JrJJ,r H nd,,m ll{lU"'':

<;jbbing~. !:i~1rnh Tlzr: Tt.:: TrmJs,wd Tr.uliritw. l~n!'l'l..,n\,

19'.)1 i, \Valka Rtdl:trd. Stzl'ik rur. 'n 1lfusrmrJ 1 hshlr) ltl7 uh
1989
1 jiurgt•tti, Cristinn Bricmi~S,, )(Llfi,~{St')'lc. OCI.t\O, I•Jt)'i
\\ .11lt·r: J.lllc . \ 1\l.nrs lii1ttk. Ilndm<trr h, 19-
(~()ld, t\nu:tln· \tt•t'IH}'_Iil't' 1'i:ur:s ·~fl:J>hirm Fnirduld
Bonks. 1975
Grntifrtl acktro" kdgmrnt Is madt to tlttfo!Lmur~~lr thr t •CntJ') '-.1~g.vnte" rc 1'\ fb, ~
P.1 c c: I &
t11ustrattorrs on tiJr 1.1aga tiOtt:J (bottom nghr l 1'il (b( n m ) 1 '"' ( I -
(b.,nom)
Ad:tlll Maga;,itw P.tgc~ 17. 2~ (nghr) . .;o {ll·ft) -o
(b~mom) Ill (IO\\cr) ~--~ 211 .ll:;- (lctt), :!'il (top) l.rn,r~t• Nt>nlGll l~gc b'l (wp r ghtJ .14 (t I a-
Inn J lus!lcr- P.tges 8h. 88 10~ 1~0 q~ l.JCJ 183 18~
(tup). t66 (bouom) .ll
20~ .ll ~.::us, 228 23- (hottom) .244 (top) llrnn P }O)e & Lo London I ~gl 241
Arcluw Ph..1rus Pngc 6 ; 38 (right).~~. 1~6 llolland tt J lQIJJnd l'ag 1.1~
\rc:hih• !'how', Ridt::~rd :md lkn ~ lurgan. Pag.. .LJ3 lllu 1r:;att;d NL"ws L.nnd')ll 11.-t~t: 'i ' u.~ (upJ C"T' Jdt
..!6,... .l.J S (ltmhmt)

JnnH• Murr.l) Phorogr.tph) flag .!C. r _ ~'I ~~ ;J

46 l~S {lwt:tnm) 2JS (1 p) -">9 261 U,t _ ...! _

John lol1b l.ond m fl~g\: ICJl.. l - (u pJ 2. 1

(bottom)
Juhn \\ t.:llz PhotogrnphL'"T' Jl;Jg •-'
Koh:d Collt-cuon l undon Page 11 _ (jdr) -
(mtddlc) ')J (upper) 1 lh (lOJ' It-ft. b rt m '11 ll'
1~(, {upper), J)o, 1<;9 (ro1) .214 (upJKrng!tt b tt m
lcll) 224. :133, ~66
I \lUIS BushJll Page oi

lucJalm lhrhem PagL:r; -- 1~ 14~ 119

?-.l:tgmun nag!! 2.27

Nl'\\ )i... rkcr ColleCT ion Mtl.c 1\\oh Pogc -R { fl,
~l'\\' rorkt~ ~ollect:ion I i)O(i M tkc h\ In mm r
c.trtclnJibank com) lC'o l uJimn Puge l.lO ( 1l l ...
I. eo Cullum from cannonbanL rom Jtl nglu
n.'scrvcdJ. 144 ~ 200.1 I co ( ullum from
etnoonh:mk com all nghr r~L'n">d) uu. ( Th.
Nc\\ Yorker ColltiLton 19Q2. l ro Cullum fn m
canoonbauk.com a11 nght'> rcsencJ)
Paul "tll41n~ ' e\\ )ork l'age-> ""'J (u p nd I tt m)
.!64

Patrick DcnulrrJlclJer. Inc_ l'ag.· I ~2

Photofc,.L Pagc--s 24 -q 9l (mtddJr nght) q- I p)
hJI 14, '-c,, 180 203, 214 (bortom nght)
Polo R.1lph l..41uren Pag(;" p 69 (t p lett) •H 04
11aks i mp:>on: P.tgt: 117. (Hrucl' \\eber) .ZI:i;; {l~rua. \\<:bvr) 1-hl (1 nt
\\cb~.·r). 2.68 (Bru('e \\ t'bc-r)
Pep.trtlln'!\ ?\ lng:Jt.U\C. P:tgc:> !2 (right). n (hllllllll)
.260 .1{0, !7•1· R.tpho, l'.trt Pages 4-. 16, 14 21\0

G:tmma Prt's!'C lnugl's: Pngi."" u.S (upper) Rcmn l.trl ~)' ~ r.;gc I) 1 {hoth m)

Gctt) lm.tgt..,, Archh L" f!hon,s· f1•1gl·.-; 6, - J~ (right) ~~

llh. 241 2r.7. llulwn Gerty. Pnges n (r.Jp. bonmn) 6<;
'ipa Prt!.)~ P.:tg.... 161 (top)
8.t. 8<; (lower). 8t; (h'wt·r). ')'\, t>S (lower). 10'), Lll
140 (11nddJt!) . 199, .22~ 2.H (bot1nm) . 14' (left) lopl~tm hnag<" \\ orks' PngG 11 (mp) Jl•& (bon m
Roger VtollcL J'.t~i.'s 83 (hottom lt!ft), 140 (hot rom) 176

UndC'rwnod &- t ndcn\ood <.. ~1rbt~ I g J IO

- ---~