FIROZABAD – FIFTH CITY OF DELHI

Delhi is about rising like a phoenix from the ashes. William Dalrymple, author of
‘City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi’, writes in the prologue – “Just as the Hindus believe
that a body [sic] will be reincarnated over and over again until it becomes perfect, so it
seemed Delhi was destined to appear in a new incarnation century after century”. The
present times can be called the eighth reincarnation. Delhi has been plundered,
pillaged and burnt to the ground only to be built back stronger, richer and more
splendid; but in a way unwittingly becoming attractive to the next invader. Delhi
teaches us resilience and the ability to bounce back like the proverbial cat with nine
lives.

According to recorded historical facts Delhi has seen the establishment of seven cities;
if we do not consider the mythological city of Indraprastha believed to be buried under
the present Purana Qila. The Seven Cities of Delhi are: Qila Rai Pithora, Mehrauli,
Siri, Tughlaqabad, Firozabad, Shergarh and Shahjahanabad.
Firoz Shah Tughlaq (1351-1388) succeeded his cousin Mohammad bin Tughlaq and
decided to build his own capital away from Tughlaqabad and Jahanpanah. He was a
renowned builder who built hunting lodges, mosques, reservoirs and colleges in and
around Delhi. Some of his other well known monuments lie in the Hauz Khas Village
area along with his tomb. He also added top two floors on Qutab Minar after it was
damaged by lightning and repaired Suraj Kund.

Firozabad extended from Hauz Khas to Pir Ghaib in north ridge area and was the first
city that was built on the banks of river Yamuna partly to solve the problem of water
scarcity experienced in Tughlakabad. It was Mohammad-bin-Tughlaq’s bad luck that
both his capitals – Tughlaqabad in Delhi and Daulatabad in Aurangabad – were hit
with water scarcity problems.
Firozabad Kotla’s (fortress or citadel) western gate is protected by bastioned walls.
Once inside you notice that most of the citadel is in ruins. There are few structures
with surviving roofs. All you see are the shells of ruined structures, exposed
subterranean passages, low rubble masonry walls and stumps that were once pillars to
magnificent palaces and halls. Also seen are few structures with pyramid roofs. Ten
years after Firoz Shah’s death, Taimur arrived on his plunder excursion in December
1398, pillaged the city, prayed at the mosque and decamped with the goodies. Later,
successive rulers dismantled the surviving structures and used the stone in the
construction of Shahjahanabad and other structures.

Main features of the citadel that have largely survived are the Ashokan Pillar, Jami
Masjid and the Baoli.
Pyramid of Cells is a three tiered diminishing pyramid like structure with the Ashok
Pillar towering on top inscribed with edicts in Pali. The pillar was originally erected in
Ambala by Emperor Ashok. The thirteen metre tall pillar is made of polished
sandstone and weighs about 27 tonnes. When the sun rays falls on the pillar it glints
like brass. Another Ashok Pillar brought from Meerut was installed in the ridge area
of North Delhi.

Next to the pillar is the Jami Masjid. The masjid has entrance from the north with
stairs leading up. Only the south & west walls survive. Friday prayers are held in the
courtyard. There are underground accessible calls below the structure. Timur too
prayed here and was so impressed with the architecture that he built a similar mosque
in Samarkand. The loot financed it and the Delhi workers taken prisoners as spoils of
war built it.

Few steps away from the pillar and the masjid is the Baoli or a stepwell. Presumably
there used to be elaborate piping system connecting the baoli to the Yamuna. The
palace walls on the east were flanked by the flowing river. Now Yamuna has shifted
eastwards. Urban legend has it that about six years ago a teenager urinated in the baoli
while bathing. The resident Djinns were not happy and drowned the boy. Since then
the baoli has been cordoned off.
Nothing beats the romance and magic of visiting a monument in Delhi on a wintry
Sunday afternoon. The light December breeze has cleared the smog. The air seems
almost crisp. Kotla Firoz Shah is an oasis in the middle of the city. It is hard to
imagine that exactly 614 years ago on an equally beautiful December day this fortress
was being plundered. Soak in the atmosphere sprawled on the green grass under the
flitting sun. You can see Delhi’s first skyscraper Vikas Minar in the south, the IG
Stadium in the east, floodlights of Firoz Shah Kotla Stadium just yards away, and for
company you have crows, mynahs, eagles, dogs and even cats. Chat up the security
guard for nuggets of information.

Apparently, this is the only place in Delhi supposed to be the abode of Djinns or
spirits. Believers come and light up diyas and incense sticks. Some people even leave
written requests and that is what we saw there. The steady stream of believers assures
that wishes are being granted by the Djinns. Thursday is the day when most people
come with their petitions and leave offerings. It is believed that the Djinns love Delhi
so much that they cannot bear to see it deserted. The day beliefs die, city dies and you
die. This is your city. You were born here. You are a link in the continuum stretching
over several millenniums.

Visiting Delhi’s heritage is like connecting with your past; it is connecting your soul
and spirit with the spirit of your city. You are walking the same ground people who
built this city walked on. Delhi has been attracting people through ages: people who
were welcomed, people who assimilated; people who provided their own colour and
texture to the canvas that Delhi is. Once in a while we need to take this walk. Djinns
will love it.

References:
1. An advance study of medieval history of India-J.L Mehta
2. Seven cities of Delhi –Sir Gordon Hearn

PREPARED BY:

Apurva Kumar
Chitrali Ghatak
Harshita Sharma
Mohit
Rahul Dev
Shradha Priya