AP°YPO¶OY§OY TELOS 30-01-08 11:00 ™ÂÏ›‰·23

Conservation Strategy of Metal Embroidery Threads in Textile Objects

in Museum of Jordanian Heritage
Omar Abdel-Kareem, Ziad Al-Saad
Yarmouk University, Jordan
Conservation Department,
Faculty of Archaeology and Anthropology
Yarmouk University, Irbid, Jordan
e-mail: Omaa67@yahoo.com,
zalsaad@yu.edu.jo

Documenting the manufacturing technology and corrosion of metal embroidery threads is essential for their
diagnosis so as to provide effective conservation treatment. In this study, different types of non-destructive
scientific methods, such as optical microscopy, Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) with energy-disper-
sive x-ray analyzer (EDX), was applied to determine the chemical composition, manufacturing technology
and corrosion of a collection of metal embroideries. Various samples that represent: strips, wires, coils and
spangles were investigated. One type has been identified as a thread made of silver (Ag) and copper (Cu).
Another type has been identified as strips wound around undyed fibre cotton core. The investigation showed
that the metal threads were damaged most probably due to the uncontrolled environmental conditions in
the museum. The paper also provides an effective conservation approach for costumes made up of textiles
and metal embroidery thread according to the type damage documented in this paper.

Keywords: Metal threads, Corrosion, SEM- EDX, Conservation Methods, Cleaning

1. INTRODUCTION Conservation of metal threads is a complex process

Decorative metals have been incorporated into tex-
tiles for thousands of years [1]. Embroideries were one of
the most sumptuous kinds of textiles produced in six-
teenth-century Europe, and among these costly goods,
gold embroideries were the most precious [2]. Metal
threads deteriorate and corrode due to attack by different
corrosive factors such as high and fluctuating relative hu-
midity, air pollutants and elevated temperatures [3]. Tex-
tiles employing metal are generally in poorer condition
than those that do not contain metal, because of extra
stresses from the high mass of the material and the multi-
plicity of degradation processes. The condition of the
metal textile depends on various factors related to the
quality of the materials from which they were made and
their manufacturing techniques in addition to the sur-
rounding environmental factors. This type of objects,
which is formed of composite materials of different origin
and nature pose a major conservation challenge [4]. The
purpose of this type of conservation intervention is to es-
tablish the level of decay of an object and to return it to its
original form as closely as possible, so that the object may
reflect the original artistic concept [5]. For effective con-
servation planning and treatment of such composite ob-
jects, it is necessary to carry out a diagnosis of the materi-
als that constitute the object. For this type of composite
object, many studies have already focused on investigat-
ing the technology and types of materials for metal
threads [6, 7, 1, 8].
23
that includes several steps. Knowing the complexity and
fragility of metal threads, cleaning is usually the first step
and the most difficult to be implemented. Any cleaning
must be carried out with great respect and consideration
of the original object’s form, function and material. In
recent years, new methods for cleaning using laser clean-
ing of metal threads have been investigated [9]. Howev-
er, traditionally, conservation treatment usually starts
with vacuum cleaning the object to remove dust. Some
textiles are also wet cleaned with a detergent. It has been
found that some metal threads become very bright after
wet cleaning, whereas others are not [7]. Nowadays, laser
cleaning is increasingly becoming popular for cleaning
such complex objects [10]. Laser cleaning is an effective
cleaning technique of metal artefacts since it provides a
high degree of control that allows fragile objects espe-
cially those with a considerable amount of surface detail
to be effectively and safely cleaned. High control permits
the preservation of objects with surface details, such as
relief, original tool markings and surface patina. The use
of this technique requires skilful conservators in order to
achieve the most satisfactory results [11].
Furthermore, conservation of historical objects made
from composite materials is a complex operation, since
conservation materials that may suite the treatment of
one component may be harmful for the other. For in-
stance, cleaning agents effective for cleaning metals may
cause harm to core yarns, ground fabric or to needlework
pads. Therefore, it is essential to find a common conser-
AP°YPO¶OY§OY TELOS 30-01-08 11:00 ™ÂÏ›‰·24

Omar Abdel-Kareem, Ziad Al-Saad

vation approach and materials that respect integrity and

can preserve all components.
Identification of the nature of the materials that con-
stitute the object is an essential prior step for effective
conservation treatment, and if possible should be carried
out with non-destructive methods. This study presents
approaches that can be used in analysis and conservation
of historical textiles decorated with metal threads in Mu-
seum of Jordanian Heritage.

2. METHODOLOGY

Three metal embroidered textile objects that are dat-

ed to the late Ottoman period were investigated and
conserved. The selected textile objects are displayed in
the Museum of Jordanian Heritage at Yarmouk Univer-
sity. The metal embroidered textile objects are: an out-
door woman’s dress (short coat and skirt) in blue colour,
a man’s cloak in dark green colour, and a child’s suit in
red colour. The objects are displayed in a display case
that has no climatic control. (Figure 1).
The visual inspection shows that all the investigated
objects have accumulated dust and dirt mainly due to
many years of exhibition in the museum under unsuit-
able and uncontrolled environment. The embroidery
metal threads are extremely fragile and in very poor con-
dition. The textile fabrics suffered greatly from time and
poor display conditions. Nevertheless, the metal threads
are relatively bright, though brittle and tarnished by dust
and various residues. The reverse side of the embroi-
deries is in very poor condition. Different samples of
each type of embroidered metal threads and from the
textile fabric were taken and subjected for further analy-
sis using the following scientific techniques: Figure 1 - Ottoman textile objects in the Jordanian Heritage
Museum displayed in a poor condition in one showcase
2.1 Scientific Examination
Optical Microscopy was used to examine the threads 3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
both longitudinally and by its cross-section. The cross sec-
tion was prepared according to Abdel-Kareem [12]. The results of optical microscope investigation en-
Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) Model Quanta abled the identification of various types of embroidered
200 with EDX was applied to examine the surface mor- metal threads. Three different types were identified: met-
phology of each type of metal threads with accelerating al strips wound around a fibre core (cotton), spangles (a
voltage 30 KV, magnification 10x up to 4000x small piece of metal sheet in a round shape), and metal
coil (metal wires wound around threads of cotton). The
2.2 Scientific Analysis microscopic examination showed that all tested metal
SEM Energy dispersive X-ray Analysis (EDX) was threads are badly deteriorated due to advance and exten-
used to chemically analyze the metal threads. The sam- sive corrosion. Various types of fabrics were also identi-
ples were mounted on carbon stubs using adhesive-coat- fied. The woman’s blue dress was made from a velvet fab-
ed carbon discs, and then were investigated directly with- ric. The velvet piles were made from silk, while the main
out any coating layer. This technique has been widely fabric was made from cotton fibre. The dress has an in-
used to analyze metal threads and proves to be powerful side lining fabric in green that was made of cotton fibre.
for the determination of their chemical composition [6, However, the dark green man’s cloak was made of cotton
13, 1, 8, 12]. fabric that has an inside lining fabric made of red silk. The
child’s suit was made from a similar cotton fabric but with
an inside lining made of the same fabric.
The results of SEM morphological examination of the
samples taken from the blue woman’s dress demonstrate
24
AP°YPO¶OY§OY TELOS 30-01-08 11:00 ™ÂÏ›‰·25
Conservation Strategy of Metal Embroidery Threads in Textile objects
that the embroidered metal threads are coils that were
made of wires (Figure 2). The wires are distinguished by
having a rectangular cylindrical shape. The width of the
wire was measure at about 82 Ìm, while its thickness is
about 32 Ìm. The wires may have been made by hammer-
ing rods. This conclusion is based on the fact that edges of
the wires have circular shape while the main body of the
wires has a rectangular shape. This variation is indicative
of hammering of the surface of the wires. All tested metal
embroideries (coils) are made from metal wires wound
around fibrous core of cotton fibre yarn. Signs of surface
damage were noticed, and are shown in Figure 3. The
damage is mainly attributed to the surface metal corro-
sion as many corrosion pits can be seen.
Figure 2 - SEM image of a metal embroidery taken from
the woman’s dress, A) Metal thread mounted for mor-
phological examination, B) Areas of the spot analysis
SEM examination performed on samples taken from
the dark green man’s cloak reveals important information
about manufacturing technology (Figure 4). The results
25
show that the metal threads in the dark green man’s cloak
were made of solid strips wound around a fibrous core of
cotton. The twisting direction of the strips wound around
fibre core is ‘S’-shaped. The strips may have been pro-
duced by cutting them out from a thin metal foil indica-
tive by such obvious signs in the sampled edges. The re-
sults also show that the investigated metal threads are in
relatively bad condition as there is a thin layer of corro-
sion products, which covers the entire surface of the met-
al threads with deep corrosion pits.
Figure 3 - SEM image of other metal embroidery from
woman’s dress, showing the damage in the surface of met-
al strip, A) Metal thread mounted for morphological ex-
amination, B) (some details from photo A)
The corrosion is not uniformly distributed on the sur-
face indicating selective corrosion in some areas. Howev-
er, the core fibre is in a fair condition when compared to
the main textile fabric of the cloak. This may be attrib-
uted to the protective effect of the metal to the fibre core
(Figure 5).
AP°YPO¶OY§OY TELOS 30-01-08 11:00 ™ÂÏ›‰·26
Omar Abdel-Kareem, Ziad Al-Saad
The results of SEM morphological examination of
spangles from child’s suit are shown in Figure 6. It is clear
that the spangles may have been produced by cutting
from them from metal foil, since it is evident that there is
an obvious sign of the effect of the cutting tool on the
edges of the spangles. The results show that the width of
spangle is about 1020 Ìm, while the width of the inside
whole is about 540 Ìm. There is noticeable damage to the
surface of spangle (see Figure 6 B is pitting in the surface
as effect of corrosion products).
Figure 4 - SEM Photographs for an embroidered met-
al thread taken from the black man’s cloak
Figure 5 - SEM Photographs for the core fiber of metal
thread taken from the black man’s cloak show that it is
cotton fiber
The SEM morphological examination of metal threads
from child’s suit are shown in Figure 7, which was a metal
thread made of a solid metal strip wound around a fibre
core. The thickness of the strip is about 264 Ìm. The strip
may have been made by cutting from a thin metal foil.
The results show that the strips were corroded. There is a
26
thin layer of corrosion products that cover the surface of
the metal strips. There are obvious signs of damage on
the metal strip as it is broken and corroded and there are
a lot of corrosion pits.
The results of EDX spot analysis of different areas of
metal thread from the woman’s dress is shown in Table 1.
The results show that the whole surface is covered with
metal corrosion products. It is noticed that the percentage
of contamination elements C, O, Mg, and Cl are high. The
results indicate that the corrosion extent on the metal sur-
face is not equally distributed on the whole surface. The
nature and type of corrosion is slightly different from one
area to another. The contamination elements are the main
component of corrosion products commonly present on
silver. However, the results show that the corrosion and
dirt on the metal threads are localized. The spot analysis
clearly shows the extent of corrosion variation from one
area to another of the same metal thread. This uneven dis-
tribution of corrosion both in terms of type and extent is an
important factor that should be taken in consideration
when considering conservation treatment of such material.
Figure 6 - SEM Photographs for an embroidered metal
circle piece (spangle) taken from the Child’s dress, A) a
spangle mounted for morphological examination, B)
(some details from photo A)
AP°YPO¶OY§OY TELOS 30-01-08 11:00 ™ÂÏ›‰·27

Conservation Strategy of Metal Embroidery Threads in Textile objects

Table 1 also gives the results of EDX analysis of the Table 1 - EDX spot analysis of the chemical composition
cross section of metal thread from the woman’s dress. (Wt %) of different corroded surface areas and cross sec-
The results indicate that the main components of metal tion of a metal thread from woman’s dress
composition are silver (Ag) 91.71%. The results show
Element Area A Area B Area C Cross section
that the gold may have been used as a coating layer on the
C 3.29 3.15 25.43 -
surface as the percentage of gold in cross section sample
O 1.64 2.27 10.04 -
is about 5%, while the percentage of gold on the surface
Mg 0.72 1.04 0.71 -
is about 24% (see Table 1area B).
Au 14.63 23.85 12.07 5.59
S 6.48 1.83 4.95 -
Cl 0.92 0.38 1.88 -
Ag 70.78 66.29 43.5 91.71
Cu 1.54 1.19 1.43 2.7
The results of EDX analysis of the metal threads from
man’s cloak are presented in Table 2. The results show
that the percent of elements composing the corrosion
products are high. As the total percent of C, O, Na, Mg, Si,
S, Cl, Ag, Ca, Fe are about 65 %, while the percent of cop-
per is about 30% only. The results of EDX analysis of
cross section of the same sample indicate that the main
components of tested metal thread in man’s cloak are cop-
per (Cu) about 80%. The severity of the corrosion in these
samples is indicative of the unsuitable environmental con-
ditions in the display case where this object is exhibited.
Al-Saad and Khasawneh (2006) confirmed that the
relative humidity surrounding textile objects in Museum
of Jordanian Heritage is about 78% with fluctuations of
about 28% throughout the year [14]. Also there are dif-
ferent types of pollution sources in the museum. So the
corrosion products found on the metal embroidery are
most probably due to display these textile objects.
The results of EDX analysis of metal embroideries
(spangle and metal thread) from child’s suit are present in
Tables 3 and 4. The results show that this object has suf-
fered less corrosion when compared to samples taken from
both woman’s dress and man’s cloak. The main component
of chemical composition of both spangle and metal thread
may be the same as copper (Cu) forms main component.

Table 2 - EDX spot analysis of the chemical composition

Wt % of corroded surface area and cross section of a met-
al thread from man's cloak.
Elements corroded surface area Cross section
C 21.14 10.19
O 14.5 3.46
Na 13.66 -
Mg 0.58 -
Si 1.13 -
Figure 7 - SEM Photographs for an embroidered metal Au 0.68 -
thread taken from the Child’s dress, A) SEM image of the S 0.89 -
metal strip, B) The cotton fibre core Cl 7.29 -
Ag 0.35 -
K 2.95 -
Ca 1.12 -
Fe 0.88 -
Ni 4.63 7.28
Cu 30.2 79.06

27
AP°YPO¶OY§OY TELOS 30-01-08 11:00 ™ÂÏ›‰·28
Omar Abdel-Kareem, Ziad Al-Saad
Table 3 - EDX analysis of the chemical composition % of
an around metal embroidered from child’s suit
Elements Cl Cu Ag Au
Wt % 0.79 92.65 1.24 5.33
Table 4 - EDX analysis of the chemical composition % of
a metal embroidered thread from child’s suit
Elements Cl Cu Ag Au
Wt % 0.61 98.16 0.53 0.7
3. CONSERVATION STRATEGY
The analytical results show that both the textile core
and the metal threads have extensive dirt deposition. The
dirt accumulation is mainly due to air particulates and
pollutants coming from the display case environment. In
addition, both the textile core and the metal threads suf-
fer from corrosion and deterioration caused by the sur-
rounding environmental conditions. The aim of any con-
servation treatment of such objects should be focused on
dealing with the causes that led to the deterioration and
damage of these objects. The long-term preservation of
these objects can be achieved by eliminating and/or mon-
itoring and controlling the deterioration factors.
A conservation treatment that includes various con-
servation measures is proposed. The proposed treatment
composed of the following steps: (1) Cleaning of the tex-
tile core and the embroidered metal threads. This step in-
cludes the removal of the corrosion products from metal
threads using methods not harmful to metal threads, core
fibres or textile fabrics carrying these metal embroideries.
(2) Isolation of the metal threads against deterioration.
After cleaning of the metal threads it is vital to protect
the metal by using protective film to reduce or prevent
any future corrosion. (3) Consolidation of the textile fab-
rics. Reinforcement of the textile cores by lining them on
new fabrics with needle work to improve their strength
during display. (4) Displaying the objects in proper show-
cases in controlled environmental conditions.
4.1 Cleaning
The aim of conservation cleaning is to remove harm-
ful soils, which may be disfiguring or cause physical or
chemical damage to a textile. Selection of the appropriate
cleaning method depends on the nature of the soil pre-
sent, and on the materials, structure, and condition of the
textile. Thorough testing should always be carried out
first to determine the response of the textile to cleaning
and to identify the most suitable method [15]. The initial
investigation carried out by this study showed that most
of the dust can be cleaned safely using low vacuum suc-
tion cleaner. All particle soils should be removed from
both the face and reverse the textile objects. This process
should be applied through gauze or net fabrics under
binocular microscope. The procedure should be repeated
many times to ensure that all loose dust has been com-
pletely removed. The cleaning with low suction cleaner is
28
one of the most common and safe methods that can be
applied in cleaning of metal embroidered textile objects
[16, 17]. However unregulated suction can be very dan-
gerous, and must not be so strong so as to pick up the ob-
ject by holding it against the nozzle [17].
The next step in the cleaning process is the removal of
corrosion products from metal embroideries. The clean-
ing of metal threads should be undertaken with great cau-
tion; it is often considered better not to clean, or to limit
the extent of cleaning rather than to subject metal threads
to potentially damaging treatments [16]. All metal objects
are best left untreated until a conservator has had an op-
portunity to examine them. Cleaning involves the risk of
over cleaning, exposure to hazardous solvents and chemi-
cals, and the consequence of higher corrosion rates on
freshly exposed metal surfaces [3].
Wet cleaning processes are commonly used in remov-
ing corrosion from metal threads [16, 17, 18]. In most of
cases, some detergents and chemicals have to be added to
water to enhance the ability of wet cleaning in removing
of corrosion stains. Some examples of the common added
materials are nonionic detergents, sequestering agent,
the disodium salt of ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid
(EDTA) [16]. In the case of the objects tested in this
study, chemical cleaning may be used with extreme cau-
tion as corrosion only partially covers the surface of the
metal. There is a danger of dissolving some of the original
metal and activating more corrosion. So another study
will be done to evaluate some suggested materials and
methods that can be used safely in cleaning these objects.
4.2 Isolation and Protection
Protective coatings are often applied to metal objects
to prevent or reduce the possibility of corrosion from high
humidity, frequent handling and atmospheric pollution.
However, the selected coating should not be harmful for
both of metal embroideries, fibre core and the textile fab-
rics carrying the metal embroideries. Also, it should be
not harmful to other components contacted with metal
threads such as dyes and pigments. Based on lab results
and experience of the others, 4% Paraloid® B-72 in
ethanol is recommended for protection of the investigat-
ed objects. This polymer is widely used in conservation of
both metals and textiles [19]. In our case there is necessity
to use protective coating layer on the surface of metal
threads, because the objects are composite that contain
different materials which require various range of RH for
each type of material. The optimum RH needed to avoid
re-corrosion of metal threads will cause dryness for textile
fabrics (see recommended RH% for metals and textiles
in NPS, 1999) [20].
4.3 Consolidation
Consolidation treatments to stabilize damaged areas
and to provide additional strength for a weak textile is an
essential conservation step. This treatment involves plac-
ing a layer of new fabric behind damaged section or the
AP°YPO¶OY§OY TELOS 30-01-08 11:00 ™ÂÏ›‰·29
Conservation Strategy of Metal Embroidery Threads in Textile objects
whole textile, and securing it in place with conservation
stitching or selected adhesives. The fabrics and threads
used should be sympathetic in appearance, colour, and
weight to the original fabric, and the support treatment
should be unobtrusive while remaining apparent to an ex-
perienced eye [15].
The loose metal threads should be secured with silk
threads. The silk threads should be dyed with colours to
match each area. The loose metal threads have to be re-
sewn in proper position with dyed silk threads using
couching technique. The smallest numbers of stitches
necessary to keep the metal threads firmly in their posi-
tion should be used. The new stitches should be sewn
through the original holes. There is various consolidation
methods for treatment of weakened three dimensional
textile objects embroidered with metal threads [18, 21, 22,
17]. The results of the present study confirm that a com-
plete lining attached to the back of the textile objects is
very important to stabilize loose elements, and to support
the textile objects while on display. The complete mount-
ing carries the overall stress and strain of the weight of
the metal embroidered threads while hanging during dis-
play. The study suggests to inserting and stitching new
dresses made from linen fabric with the textile objects.
4.4 Display
The display of costume presents a range of curatorial
and conservation challenges, often necessitating compro-
mise to achieve an appropriate balance between presen-
tation and preservation. The vulnerability of costume
means that damaging factors must be eliminated or re-
duced as far as possible. For this reason costumes are not
kept on display for extended period [23]. Careful and ap-
propriate mounting provides a textile with additional
overall support, reduces the tension on weakened areas,
and enables it to be displayed and handled with the mini-
mal amount of stress. Three dimensional textiles can be
supported onto specially shaped forms made of soft inert
materials [15].
The study suggests displaying the woman’s dress on a
mannequin. However, mounting costume on mannequins
or other shaped forms requires skill and time. What mat-
ters is that the form be made or adapted to meet the
unique shape of each garment [23]. It is very important
that the materials selected to prepare the mannequin
should be good and do not cause any harm to the textile
objects and metal threads [24]. A mannequin can be con-
structed to the appropriate size to support and display the
woman dress. The mannequin should be dressed with an
unfinished molleton (thick, soft flannel). Its visible parts
(neck, sides) should be covered with a fabric similar to
fabric used in the ground of the display showcase. This
fabric should be made from good materials and not harm-
ful to all materials composed of the woman’s dress.
For displaying the man’s cloak, the study suggests
hanging it from a dowel. This method is useful for unfit-
ted costumes made of flat sections of cloth, such as this
29
cloak. A covered dowel will be placed inside the shoulder
seams and the top of the sleeves. The cloak will be hung
then from the exposed dowel at the neck opening. The
dowel should be covered with cotton cloth. The dowel
should be extended to within a few centimetres of the end
of the sleeves to ensure that the sleeves are fully support-
ed. The cloth covering should extend over the ends of the
dowel and be secured so that the dowel ends are fully cov-
ered. This prevents any abrasion of the textile when the
dowel is being inserted in place. The cloth should be of
washed cotton. The dowel is least obtrusive on display if
the cloth matches the basic colour of the textile. The dyes
must be non-running. To insert the dowel, place the cloak
flat on the table and insert the dowel from the end of one
of the sleeves.
For displaying the child’s suit, the study suggests to as-
semble both of the two parts (jacket and trousers) on a
new model. This new model can be made from undyed
cotton fabric and padded with polyester fibres. The final
layer of the model can be made from cotton fabric dyed
with suitable colour adapted to the original colour of the
suit. Then the child’s suit can be displayed on a stand
made of Perspex in showcase.
Finally the three textile objects should be displayed in
separate showcases, which will make it easier to create
the appropriate environmental conditions for each ob-
ject. The objects should be periodically inspected for any
signs of physical or chemical deterioration [23].
5. CONCLUSIONS
1- Metal threads in our case study suffer deterioration as
SEM morphological showed that there are obvious
signs of damages. The metal threads are too dirty,
broken, corroded and there a lot of corrosion pits.
2- The proper conservation approach for both fabric and
metal threads should be include various steps such as
cleaning, isolation and protection coating, consolida-
tion and display methods.
3- The study confirmed that there is a lack of research on
composite materials such as textile objects decorated
with metal threads.
4- It is necessity to carry out further research to evaluate
materials and methods used in cleaning of metal
threads, so as to determine the most appropriate and
effective approaches and methods for removing cor-
rosion from metal threads without harming the textile
fabrics.
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