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Haworth: village of the Brontës were written the famous novels – Jane Eyre,

Wuthering Heights, The Tenant of Wildfell Hall and


a tempting array of loaves round and square, of
tea cakes and currant buns and seed and plum
A late-19th-century depiction of wool combing (detail from SC Lister's statue in Manningham)
Haworth
‘We no sooner reached the foot of the hill others – which shook the literary world in the cakes, riveted their gaze. The vicar passed by
than we had to begin to mount again, over a middle of the 19th century. At first, the identity with the Curate in earnest conversation … a
narrow, rough stone-paved road; the horses’ of the authors was hidden from the public, huge cart horse struggled upward with a heavy Village of the Brontës
feet seemed to catch at boulders, as if climbing. but soon the names of Charlotte, Emily and load, slipping backward almost every step of
When we reached the top of the village there Anne Brontë – and of Haworth – were known the steep way, while the carter in dingy smock
was apparently no outlet, but we were directed across the country. The family was touched by walked at his head and sought to ease and
to drive into an entry which just admitted the tragedy, however. Their brother Branwell died encourage his beast. Grimy mill hands passed,
gig; we wound round in the entry and then in 1848, aged 31, Emily soon followed, aged 30, taciturn and grave; a man with a squealing pig
saw the church close at hand, and we entered Anne died in 1849, aged 29, and Charlotte died had difficulties in driving the porker, who bolted
on the short lane which led to the parsonage in 1855 at the age of 38. Their father Patrick into every lane and doorway … the draper
gateway. Here Charlotte was waiting, having lived on until 1861, aged 84. He had buried all next door came to his window to watch the
caught the sound of the approaching gig’. his children. pig’s divagations’.
So wrote Ellen Nussey, describing a visit to Haworth lies four miles from Keighley and Many of the buildings on Main Street were
Haworth and her great friend Charlotte Brontë even further from the bigger towns of Halifax built as shops, with large display windows –
in 1833. Her experience of arrival at the village and Bradford. The village climbs the side of Shops on Main Street (13) some with handsome stone surrounds – to
has been shared by visitors ever since: the a steep hill and behind it, stretching to the attract customers. The village had a Co-
steep hill is still a challenge and the way to the Pennine watershed, rise the lonely, desolate time of the Brontës it had booksellers, grocers, operative Society with a shop, once in the
Parsonage, home of the Brontë family, remains moors so beloved of the Brontë sisters and tailors, drapers, a clockmaker and surgeons.
the same. made famous by Emily’s great novel Wuthering Around the miniature square at the church
Haworth is, of course, best known for its Heights. Due to its remoteness and because steps (8) were an apothecary, a wine and spirit
association with the Brontës. Patrick Brontë it lay on an important trans-Pennine turnpike merchant, an ironmonger (who doubled as
was appointed curate in 1820 and the family road, Haworth was rather more than a rural a postmaster), a temperance hotel and four
took up residence in the Parsonage. Here village, for it served a large hinterland. In the inns (the Black Bull, the Old White Lion, the was the production of worsted yarn and cloth: Many of the cottages in the village today were
Cross, and the King’s Arms). In among these worsteds were fine cloths using long-fibre wool. once used for wool combing.
businesses were more humble trades: many The work was mainly carried out in factories: Historic Haworth is largely a product of the
boot and clog makers, a blacksmith and joiners, the biggest in Haworth was Bridgehouse Mills 19th century. The Brontës knew a village that
plasterers and stone masons. The atmosphere (24), on the Bridgehouse Beck in the valley was a scene of constant building activity: new
was captured vividly by a 19th-century visitor: below the village. The mid-19th-century houses and shops were always in the course of
staying at the Black Bull, she was ‘just looking census returns show that many households had construction and old houses were replaced by
from the window which gave on the square. fathers, mothers, sons and daughters employed new. The cottages are substantially built of local
Indifferent to the rain, the people clattered by in in the textile industry. In 1851, the 60-year sandstone and gritstone, with dressed stone
their wooden shoes. Two toddlers, bare necked The Co-operative Stores (15) old John Mitchell and his wife, of Hall Green, surrounds to the doorways and mullioned
and bare armed, stood hand-in-hand, looking worked as handloom weavers, a vanishing windows in characteristic Pennine style. Some
wistfully into the window of a bake shop, where central ‘square’ but later further down Main occupation by that time. They probably had houses were built back-to-back and some
Street, where its premises, built in 1897, proudly their looms in their cottage. Two daughters, had a main dwelling at one level and a cellar
display the inscription ‘Haworth Industrial however, worked as powerloom weavers in dwelling below: a short back-to-back terrace on
Cooperative Society Limited Central Stores’ one of the local mills. In addition, a son was a West Lane (5) has four cellar dwellings below
(15). The village also had a branch of the wool comber. This last process, which involved the houses on the main street front. Not all
Yorkshire Penny Bank, which opened in 1860 the combing of raw wool to produce fibres of Haworth’s houses, however, were relatively
and by 1894 had moved to what is now the ready for spinning, was still carried out in the new in the time of the Brontës. The Old Hall
Visitor Information Centre (7), adding the houses of the workers. It was an arduous and at Hall Green (18) is an excellent example of Village of the Brontës
prominent turret on the older building to dangerous occupation, for it required charcoal 17th-century Yorkshire Pennine housing and
proclaim its importance. or coal stoves to heat the combs. These stoves on North Street is another fine 17th-century
In the time of the Brontës, Haworth was very were rarely extinguished, windows were rarely house with its aisled barn alongside (4). Haworth
The Parsonage (11) The Black Bull inn (8) much a working village. The main industry opened and fumes caused illness and death.

the Methodists ran a school in the village Branwell Brontë was a member of the Three before they were six years old. In St Michael’s charm; buildings of different size, type and age
from 1821 and in 1832 the Church of England Graces Lodge, which met in rooms in Newell churchyard, one memorial records that Joseph are set at different angles and distances from
responded by building a National School (10), Hill (now Lodge Street) (14). Another form Heaton buried seven infant children, and there the street, but are nevertheless united by their
close to the church and parsonage. Patrick of association is represented by Victoria Hall are many similar gravestones in the village’s level of preservation and by the colour of the
Brontë was instrumental in founding the school (20), adjacent to the Hall Green Baptist Chapel. burial grounds. For those who survived infancy, stone from which they are built. Together they
and Charlotte, Emily, Anne and Branwell all Built in 1854, the hall provided a meeting place life expectancy was around 44 years. The reflect the gradual and organic development
taught there. Only with the building of the for the Oddfellows Friendly Society, formed Brontë family itself illustrated the devastating and the diverse assortment of facilities,
Central Board Schools in Butt Lane (16) in to provide help and support to its members. impact of disease and sickness: none of the six employers, people and institutions once found
1895 was non-denominational education Nearby, in Minnie Street, is the Drill Hall (21), children died in infancy, but none reached the in an industrious, self-sufficient Pennine hill
Townend Farm (4) provided for the children of Haworth. built in 1873 to provide training facilities for age of forty. village. They also provide the very fabric of
Despite the widespread ignorance which the present-day living village, which is home
The wealthier or higher status inhabitants Patrick Brontë complained about, the village did to a thriving community and is also a popular
lived in houses which introduced new styles of enjoy a social and cultural life. A Philosophical and friendly tourist destination. In partnership
architecture to the village: the Parsonage (11), Society was formed in 1780 and orchestral and with Bradford Council, local groups and
built in 1779, has a symmetrical elevation and choral concerts were held in the church and Memorial to Joseph Heaton's children (9) business owners, Historic England is working
sash windows, in contrast to the mullioned the Black Bull. Brass bands from the mills held to maintain the character of Haworth and its
windows of the cottages, and Woodlands (22), concerts and the Haworth Brass Band, formed Conservation in Haworth authentic atmosphere, for visitors and residents
the home of the family that ran Bridgehouse in 1854 and originating as the Springhead mill alike, by assisting and advising on schemes of
Mills, has a fine restrained classical front. band, still meets in rooms next to the Fleece The heart of Haworth is a conservation area maintenance and through the sympathetic Engraving of Haworth of circa 1860-80 (Courtesy of the Brontë Society)
Inn on Main Street. The improvement of the which contains over 80 listed buildings and a management of change. The aim is to protect
working man was advanced by the founding of significant number of others which contribute and enhance Haworth, and its international Acknowledgements:
a Mechanics’ Institute in 1849, offering a library, greatly to the village’s character. Haworth reputation as a high-quality tourist destination, This leaflet has been produced by Historic England to promote Haworth’s rich history and built
a newsroom and a lecture hall. Both Patrick Conservation Area has a chaotic but cohesive for generations to come. heritage. Work has been assisted by members of the Brontë Society, particularly Christine Went,
and Charlotte Brontë were staunch supporters formerly the Society’s Heritage and Conservation Officer; Ann Dinsdale, Collections Manager; and
of the Institute, which moved in 1853 to new Sarah Laycock, Librarian. Mick Lockwood of Hall Green Baptist Chapel kindly gave access to the
premises, now the Villette Café, in Main Street building. Help was also received from staff at the Keighley Local Studies Library and from local
(13). The Freemasons were active in Haworth: historian Steven Wood. The text was researched and written by Colum Giles.

Further reading:
The history of Haworth is described in some excellent recent publications, including:
Baumber, M 2009 A History of Haworth from earliest times. Lancaster: Carnegie
Woodlands (22) West Lane Methodist Chapel graveyard (2) Whitehead, S R 2006 The Brontës’ Haworth. Kendal: Ashmount
Wood, S 2009, 2011 Haworth Oxenhope and Stanbury from old photographs. Stroud: Amberley (2
A very important part of life in 19th-century the 42nd Company of the West Yorkshire Rifle For Haworth, nothing would be the same
volumes)
Haworth was played by religion. Patrick Volunteers who were renowned for their after the Brontës. The village expanded
Wood, S and Palmer, I 2009 Haworth through time. Stroud: Amberley
Brontë preached for forty years in St Michael’s shooting prowess, winning many competitions after the opening of the Keighley and Worth
The story of the Brontës is explored in numerous publications, the most extensive being:
Church, which in his time was largely an 18th- in the late 19th century. Valley Railway (26) in 1867 and many of the
century building, although retaining the tower Alongside the industry, the commerce, the local mills grew into large steam-powered Barker, J 2010 The Brontës. London: Abacus
of the chapel established in 1655. Today’s religion and social life was one dominant factories. Brow, curiously in the valley below
church (9) dates from a rebuilding of 1879- presence in the village in the time of the the village, became a distinct settlement, Places to visit:
80. Patrick may have felt beleaguered in Brontës: death. Haworth was a notoriously industrial in character. For the village itself, Brontë Parsonage Musuem, Church Street, Haworth (http://www.bronte.org.uk/)
Haworth, however, for the Church of England unhealthy place, as bad, it was reported, as the on the hill above, literary pilgrimages became Keighley and Worth Valley Railway (http://www.kwvr.co.uk/)
was overshadowed by the Nonconformist worst slums of London. A poor water supply, an important source of income, especially
denominations. In 1851, Patrick could count no proper provision for sewage, harsh working after the foundation of the Brontë Society in © Historic England 2016
on 500 adherents, but three times as many conditions and perhaps even seepage from 1893. Today, the Brontë association and the All photographs © Historic England
villagers attended the three chapels – Wesleyan the churchyard burials were to blame. Infant preservation of the village largely as it was in
and Baptist – which flourished in Haworth (2, mortality reached horrifying levels in the middle the middle decades of the 19th century, make
3, 19). Competition extended to education: Victoria Hall (20) years of the century: 41% of children died Haworth a popular and rewarding place to visit. The square (8)
Key buildings and sites in Haworth members who are buried in a vault beneath
the floor. The crowded churchyard contains
1 Sun Inn, West Lane: in the mid-19th many gravestones of interest. Boundary of Conservation Area

Lo
rdL
century turnpike road tolls were collected

an
e
here.
To Keighley
2 West Lane Methodist Chapel: the chapel,
built in 1758 and rebuilt in 1846, has been
demolished, the congregation moving to the
adjacent schoolroom of 1853. At the rear is

Bridgehouse Beck
the chapel graveyard.

ne
La
es
To Keighley

olm
yth
4

M
MILL HEY
et
th Stre
Nor P
2 3

Change Gate
1
ane We
estL st Lan
10 National School, Church Street: the W e
5
little school house was built in 1832 as a
Sunday school with funds from the National
3 West Lane Baptist Chapel: founded in Society and from public subscriptions, P 7
To Stanbury 6
the 1750s, but provided with a new chapel generated through the efforts of Patrick
27
in 1844. Behind the chapel is an extensive Brontë. Charlotte, Emily, Anne and Branwell

Raw
school. all taught here. 10 Haworth P
8

don
Church Street
11 9 12 Station

Roa
26

d
Graveyard

Ma
in
Str
ee
t
15 The Co-operative Stores, Main Street: 21 Drill Hall, Minnie Street: built in 1873 for 16
built in 1897, it originally provided drapers’, the 42nd Company of the West Yorkshire
14

Station Road
butchers’ and grocers’ departments on the Rifle Volunteers. BROW

ground floor and an ‘assembly room’ on the Lane


11 The Parsonage, Church Street: this is Butt
top floor. Next to the Co-op, Nos. 25-27
the centrepiece for visitors interested in the were probably built half a century earlier as 13
4 Townend Farm, North Street: a well- Brontë family. Built in 1779, the house is a workshop, lit by long mullioned windows

Belle Isle Road


preserved 17th-century house and adjacent modest but dignified and provided a home on the upper floors and with a taking-in Central Park

barn. for the family from 1820 to 1861. Patrick’s door for goods on the top floor.
5 West Lane, Nos. 21-34: a row of back- successor, the Reverend Wade, added the 16 The Central Board Schools, Butt Lane:
to-back houses, with cellar dwellings on the gabled wing in 1878. The house is now the these large school buildings were opened P
street side. Brontë Parsonage Museum, owned and run 17
in 1895 and replaced the denominational
6 The Fold, West Lane: this yard is lined by the Brontë Society. It acts as a research schools which up to that date had provided
with cottages. In 1851 there were eight and cultural centre and attracts thousands education in Haworth. 15 25
households here with 52 inhabitants, nine of visitors each year. The museum displays
of them lodgers in a lodging house run by a many original pieces of furniture and house
Lane
Bridge
handloom weaver. exhibitions from their extensive Brontë 25 The War Memorial, Bridgehouse: 105
7 Visitor Information Centre: the Mechanics’ collection. men from Haworth village lost their lives 24
18 et
Institute, founded in 1849, originally met 12 Gauger’s Croft: through the archway in the First World War: their regiments 19 t re
tS
here. In 1894 the Yorkshire Penny Bank next to Emma’s Café lay Gauger’s Croft. In 22 Woodlands, Sun Street: built by the ec
saw action at the battles of Ypres and the osp
took over the property and added the the time of the Brontës, this was a densely Pr
Greenwood family, of Bridgehouse Mills, in Somme. 20
short tower and pyramidal roof. The Brontë packed area of terraced housing, with 1832. A private drive leads to the house
Society, founded in 1893, opened its first many cellar dwellings. The houses were 17 Central Park: this opened in 1929 and and after 1867 a bridge was built over the

k Lane
museum in an upper room in 1895. demolished as part of a slum clearance brass band concerts were once performed railway and the Bridgehouse Beck to provide 21
campaign in the 1960s. in a bandstand. direct access to the factory.

Ivy Ban
18 The Old Hall, Hall Green: the best 23 Ivy Bank Mills: this mill, now derelict, was
surviving 17th-century house in Haworth, built for worsted spinning in about 1870.
with characteristic mullioned windows, 24 Bridge House and Bridgehouse
gritstone masonry and a projecting porch Mills: Bridge House is a beautiful mid-
with a little chamber lit by windows on 18th-century building with sophisticated
three sides. Inside, the main feature is a architectural features which contrast strongly 23
large arched kitchen fireplace with a small with the vernacular cottages of the village.
opening to an oven on one side.

26 Haworth railway station, Station Road:


the Keighley and Worth Valley Railway
opened in 1867 and the original station
13 Main Street: this leads steeply down building survives. Steam trains run from
from the square. On both sides of the Keighley to Oxenhope and the smell of coal

Brid
Sun
street are cottages and shops, some with smoke is an evocative part of the Haworth

Str

ehog
eet
fine shop window surrounds in ashlar. experience.

use
8 The ‘square’: the road widens at the foot ‘Villette’, built in 1853, was originally a lecture

Bec
of the church steps to form a little square. room for the Black Bull, then the Mechanics’

k
On the upper side, to one side of the old Institute and later the Liberal Club. Perhaps
village stocks, is a short row of shops: No. the best shop front belongs to Nos. 75 and 19 Hall Green Baptist Chapel: built in 1824
121 was the post office in the time of the 77, a pair of shops built in 1854. and retaining a galleried interior and original
Brontës, and No.123 was a temperance pews. The organ was added in 1840.
(teetotal) hotel. It was supported by Patrick Next to it in the late 18th century was built
Brontë, who was President of Haworth’s Bridgehouse Mills. Originally water-powered
Temperance Society. Opposite is another and used for worsted yarn spinning, steam
row of shops: Rose’s Apothecary, a fine power and weaving sheds were added later. 22
building with smooth ashlar masonry, was a Only the frontage buildings survive: these 27 Mill Hey and Brow: Mill Hey was
chemist’s store in the mid-19th century. Two date from the mid and late 19th century. originally a scatter of cottages near to the
sides of the square are lined with inns: the corn mill on the Bridgehouse Beck. Brow
Black Bull, favoured by Branwell Brontë, and developed after the arrival of the railway
the Old White Lion, rebuilt in 1858. in 1867 to form a settlement distinct from
9 St Michael and All Angels’ Church and 14 Lodge Street (formerly Newell Hill): in that of Haworth village on the hill above.
graveyard: the church was largely rebuilt this short fold are the rooms used by the The settlement had chapels, Sunday schools,
in 1879 to replace the building known to Three Graces Masonic Lodge and the three- 20 Victoria Hall, Prospect Street: this shops, a police station and, by the early 20th
the Brontës. Inside, a stained glass window storey house of William Wood, a joiner, who meeting hall, in the middle of a terrace of century, two cinemas: the Hippodrome, on 0 100
commemorates Charlotte and a memorial made furniture for the Parsonage and the houses, was built in 1854 by the Oddfellows Belle Isle, of 1913 (now converted to flats)
tablet records the deaths of the family coffins for the Brontë family. Friendly Society. and the Bronte, which opened in 1921. metres
To Hebden Bridge To Oxenhope

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