Let the scales of a mighty

dragon cloak your wrist.

by Dori Olmesdahl

IDRAGON
FCT-MW-040317_07

©2005 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be

reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. facetjewelry.com
 intermediate
chainmail
metal

Medieval warriors wore chainmail shirts

to deflect the worst of the blows delivered by such
weapons as the bastard sword and the spiked mace.
The tighter the link, the better the protection,
though the payoff was more weight to carry about
and less maneuverability.
Thankfully, we no longer need armor—but we do
need chainmail. Based on an ancient pattern called
Dragon’s Weave, this substantial cuff sports a silver
plate, which recalls other pieces of armor such as
the cuirass or gauntlet. At 2 inches wide, it
consumes jump rings; narrow the width to extend
your supply if need be, but keep the pattern even.
You can embellish the plate however you like
(here, it is is simply hammered for texture), or you
can make the plate larger or smaller. You can also
skip the plate altogether and make a solid chainmail
mesh. However, unless you’re an expert chainmailler,
you need the plate if you really want to make this
piece in a day.
Chainmail, regardless of its pattern, is a
confusing technique to learn initially. Just relax and
keep plugging away. Suddenly the pattern will make materials
sense. You will see instantly where each ring should ■ 2 troy oz. sterling-silver tools & supplies
go. You will know if you’re on a 5-row or a 6-row, jump rings, ■ Chainnose and bent
whether you should reach for a small ring or large. 6.5mm interior chainnose pliers
You may even begin to dream about chainmail in diameter, 18-gauge ■ Steel block

your sleep. ■ 1 troy oz. sterling-silver ■ Engraved hammer or

jump rings, regular hammer and

4mm interior diameter, steel mesh
19-gauge ■ Wood block

■ Sheet silver: 2 ⁄8×2-inch ■ Rubber mallet

3
  The version, opposite, sports small rings patinated
with liver of sulfur and a heavy patination on the (6×5.1cm) piece, ■ Power drill

silver plate. The version, above right, is in its original 12-gauge ■ Metal files
shiny state. ■ Six-loop slide clasp ■ Liver of sulfur

N SCALE
[1] Large ring 6-row/small [8] Large ring 5-row (first
ring 5-row step).  Loop a large ring
combination. Connect through the2 leftmost small
6 large rings with 5 small
rings. 1 rings from the previous
small ring 6-row.

[2] Large ring 5-row/large ring

6-row combination (first
step).  Place 1 large closed ring
over the far left small ring. Place a
second large closed ring over the
small ring second from the left.
2
[3] Large ring 5-row/large [10] Small ring 5-row
ring 6-row combination (first step).  Loop a small
(second step).  Secure the ring around the 2 leftmost
2 large closed rings by sliding large rings sandwiched
a large open ring through the between the 2 topmost
2 encircled small rings. Close layers. Look for the
the large ring. Continue this
pattern across the row to
finish the large ring 5-row.
3 upside-down V-shape
indicator.

[4] Large ring 6-row (final

step).  Attach a large ring to the
far left and the far right small
rings to finish the large ring-6
row. The introductory rows are
now complete, and the pattern
becomes easier.
4
[5] Small ring 6-row (first [12] Large ring 6-row
step).  Starting on the far left, (first step).  Attach a large
take 1 small ring and grab the ring to the far left small ring.
large ring sandwiched
beneath the first and third

5
rows of large rings you just
completed.

[6] Small ring 6-row (second

step).  Use 1 small ring to grab
the adjacent large rings between
the first and third rows. Add
3 more rings in this manner.
You should see an upside-down
V-shape as you work.
6 small ring that is second
[7] Small ring 6-row (final
step).  Add 1 final ring to the
far right, using the same
technique as from step 5.
[13] Large ring 6-row
(final step).  Now slide a
large ring through the far
left small ring (on the right
side of it), and through the
from the left. Add 4 more
large rings in this manner to
complete the row.

7

8 a steel block and texture it
[9] Large ring 5-row (final
step).  Continue the pattern
from step 8, and add 4 more
large rings to complete the row.
9
10
[11] Small ring 5-row (final
step).  Continue the pattern
from step 10, and add 4 more
small rings to complete the row.
Again, look for the upside-down
V-shape.
11
12
[14] Repeat the pattern.  file to smooth the interior of
Add length as follows:
■ Small ring 6-row (steps 5–7)
■ Large ring 5-row (steps 8–9)
■ Small ring 5-row (steps 10–11)
■ Large ring 6-row (steps 12–13)
■ Repeat
13 When you’ve reached your
desired length for one side of the
bracelet, attach a six-loop slide
clasp to your first row. Start
from the beginning to make the
second half of the cuff. Or, skip
the next steps and make an
all-chainmail cuff.
[15] Cut and texture sheet
silver. Cut a 23⁄8×2-inch
(6×5.1cm) piece of 12-gauge
sheet silver. Place the metal on
using an engraved hammer;
use a regular hammer to
pound steel mesh over the
surface to imprint a pattern.
Hammer away, but the more
you do, the more distorted the
sheet will get and the harder it
15
will be to flatten.
[16] Flatten the metal
plate.  Place the textured silver
sheet between a steel block and a
flat wooden board. Hammer on
top of the wood using a rubber
mallet to flatten the piece.
16
[17] Fold the edges. Use
the squared edge of your
steel block to bend over the
sharp edges of the plate.
Extend 3–4mm over the
edge of the block, and
hammer the edge down at
17 a 90-degree angle. Flip the
plate over and hammer this
lip flat against the
underside of the plate.
[18] Drill holes. Drill Repeat for all four sides,
6 equidistant holes across the and file as necessary.
short side of your rectangular
plate. Be sure the holes are
large enough to fit your small
jump rings. Use a round metal
the holes; also file the
underside of the plate if
needed. Repeat for the
18
opposite side of the plate.
[19] Attach the
chainmail.  Attach 6 small
jump rings to the holes in
the metal plate and to one
half of your chainmail.
Repeat on the other side to
complete your cuff. The
version, left, was entirely
19 patinated in liver of sulfur.
Note the purple hues.