CONTENTS

QUALITY ASSURANCE…………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 2
GARMENT SPECIFICATION……………………………………………………………………………………………….3
STYLE DESCRIPTION…………………………………………………………………………………………………………3
FABRIC & TRIM DETAILS………………………………………………………………………………………………… 4
MEASUREMENT CHART…………………………………………………………………………………………………. 5
OREPARTION BREAK DOWN………………………………………………………………………………………….. 6
QUALITY ASPECTS IN DEPT…………………………………………………………………………………………….11
MARKER MAKING AND LAY PLANNING………………………………………………………………………….15
FABRIC SPREADING ………………………………………………………………………………………………………15

FABRIC CUTTING AND BUNDLING………………………………………………………………………………….17

SEWING AND ASSEMBLY……………………………………………………………………………………………….18

FINAL PRESSING AND FINISHING…………………………………………………………………………………..19

TYPES OF DEFECTS………………………………………………………………………………………………………..19

CONCLUSION……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….24

REFERENCES………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..25

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 QUALITY ASSURANCE

Introduction

It is the objective of any manufacturer to offer his customers first quality merchandise. The
purpose of the quality control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting their high
standards. In addition quality control program can help them in their operations quality
control program, spot and reject Defective items and more importantly pinpoint production
operations that need special attention thereby reducing the future production failures. This
type of quality control provides a basis for management decisions in the plant.

Quality is

 Fit for use

 Conformance to requirements

 When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy when it is defect free

 When it has a long life

 When it has good wear ability and wash ability

General quality problem break up:

 Sewing : 75%
 Fabric : 14%
 Finishing : 10%
 Others : 1%
 Total : 100%

Methods of Quality Control:-

1) Testing

2) Inspection

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Inspection:

Inspection may be defined as the visual examination in relation to some standards.

Objective of Inspection

The main objectives of inspection are

 Detection of defects
 Correcting the defects or defective

GARMENT SPECIFICATION
Spec sheet
A specification sheet, commonly abbreviated to “spec sheet,” is a technical document that
sets out the details of how, exactly, a certain product is intended to perform or function.
These sorts of sheets are very common in the information industry, particularly as relates to
computer and software design, though they are used in any circumstance where something
needs to be built or constructed in a precise way. Construction projects, general
manufacturing, and some telecommunications work are all places where this sort of
document can be found.

Specification sheets provide important details to ensure the correct execution of your
patterns into finished garments. Spec sheets help to produce accurate samples, which
improves turnaround time and simplifies communication during all stages of manufacturing
and quality control.

Spec sheets include detailed technical diagrams, construction notes, finished garment
measurements, fabric yields and material and trim details. We can tailor the format and
information provided to suit your company’s individual needs.

STYLE DESCRIPTION

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FABRIC & TRIMS DETAILS

4
MEASUREMENT CHART

5
OPERATION BREAK DOWN

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7
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QUALITY ASPECTS IN DEPARTMENTS
FABRIC AND TRIM STORE

4 POINT SYSTEM
The 4 point system is generally used for fabric inspection. In this system, points are assigned
for every possible defect in the fabric as follows.

Width wise point criteria Penalty points

Upton 3” 1 point
3-6” 2 points
6-9” 3 points
9” 4 points

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 Length wise point criteria Penalty points
Upton 5” 1 point
3-6” 2 points
6-9” 3 points
9” 4 points

Area wise point criteria Penalty points

1X1 cm float 1 point
Upto 1X1 cm hole/stain 2 points
Over 1X1 cm to 2X2 hole/stain 3 points
Over 2X2 cm hole/stain 4 points

Yarn variation/Beam motion/Barre effect Penalty points

Minor 2 points
Major 4 points

• 3 points and 4 points are pointed and are called Cutable defects.
• 1 and 2 point are identified by stickers and panels replaced cutting.
• If defect points/100m3 < 40 then accept the fabric.
• If defect points/100m3 > 40 then reject the fabric.

Major woven defects: slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end out, and soiled yarns,
wrong warns.

Major dyeing or printing defects: out of register, dye stops, machine stops, color out, color
smear, or shading.

These defects are marked with colored tape so that they can be easily located.

Others Penalty points

Patta Cutable defect

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Count or composition variation Cutable defect
Short end Reject roll
Selvedge loose Reject roll
Wrong drawing Reject roll
Reed marks Reject roll
Temple marks Reject roll
Damaged selvedge Reject roll
Wrong weave Reject roll

FABRIC TESTING
• Fabric Shrinkage
• Color Fastness or Crocking
• Centre Selvedge

This test is used to check the color variation in the fabric. Full width of the fabric is taken
(length can vary according to requirement say 10”). The Fabric is divided into 6 pieces and
their grain line is marked.

These pieces are then cut and re stitched in a random series. For e.g. 3, 6, 2, 5, 4, 1.

When we arrange these fabric pieces in a series, we can see the shade variation in the
same fabric. Noting of this variation is very important at the time of cutting.

Maximum CS is seen in solid/printed fabrics as compared to stripes and checks.

FABRIC DEFECTS
 Abrasion Mark
 Double Pick
 Oil Stain
 Hole
 Bow
 Skew
 Crease
 Dye Stain

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  Miss-pick
 Slubs
 Calendar Line
 Contamination

TRIM TESTING
Buttons:

 Colour fastness
 Dry Cleaning
 Washing test
 Steam Test

Labels:

 Colour fastness
 Dry Cleaning
 Dimension Stability
 Physical and Chemical Test

TRIM DEFECTS
Buttons and Labels:

 Broken buttons
 Misprinted and wrong care labels
 Color bleeding labels
 DTM buttons not dyed to match
 Incorrect size of buttons

MARKER MAKING AND LAY PLANNING

MARKER DEFECTS
 Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include
the correct number of parts.

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  Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a
marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped
fabrics.
 Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
 Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not
powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.
 Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the
pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the
pattern into a smaller space for economizing the fabric.
 The pattern may have worn out edges.
 Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in
components being sewn together with puckering and pleating.
 When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut
with bits missing.
 Not enough knife clearance freedom.
 Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.
 Wrong checks boxing i.e. checks are not showing a full/partial box across the seam.
 Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.

FABRIC SPREADING
FABRIC SPREAD
 Markers
 Marker Placement
 Table Marks
 Pattern Check
 Splices
 Narrow Goods
 Tension
 Leaning
 Remnants
 Fabric Flaws
 Defects
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  Ends
 Spreader should spread rolls according to shade. If two shades must be used in a
spread, tissue paper should be used to separate the rolls.
 Spreaders should also make sure that fabric defects are cut out of the rolls of fabric
before they are spread.

SPREADING AUDIT
 Inaccurate ply count
 Wrong color
 Wrong marker
 End loss exceeds allowance
 Inaccurate set up
 Improper shading
 Wrong cut number
 Inaccurate tickets
 Four point flaw left in (marked)
 Wrinkle
 Over Splice
 Under Splice
 Four point flaw left in (unmarked)
 One cutout not utilized in spread remnant
 Selvage cutting edge variance >1/2”

FABRIC CUTTING AND BUNDLING

CUTTING AUDIT
• Miscut: Check for miscut or the failure of the Cutter to split the line. Tolerance is
1/16”. Report all defects for miscuts to Cutting Foreman (Supervisor).

• Matching Plies: Check the top ply with the bottom ply to see that they are the same.
Compare both to a hard pattern or paper maker. Tolerance is 1/8”.

• Ragged Cutting: Check for ragged cutting according to the standards of the customer.
It is a judgment defect. It is important on critical parts that if it has to be re-cut then it is a
defect.

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• Notches: Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply. Any critical
notch missing needs to be checked 100%. Tolerance is 1/8”.

• 10% of bundles in a cut should be inspected

Lot Size 1.5 2.5 4.O 6.5

Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept
Less than 151 8 0 5 0 13 1 8 1
151-280 8 0 20 1 13 1 13 2
280-500 32 1 20 1 20 2 20 3
501-1200 32 1 32 2 32 3 32 5
1201-3200 50 2 50 3 50 5 50 7
3201-10000 80 3 80 5 80 7 80 10
10001-35000 125 5 125 7 125 10 125 14
35001-150000 200 7 200 10 200 14 200 21
150001-500000 315 10 315 14 315 21 200 21
500001 & Over 500 14 500 21 315 21 200 21

SEWING AND ASSEMBLY

INSPECTIONS
• Inline inspection: Our assembly line check points ensure 100% checking is done for the
partially stitched garments and only defect free garments are forwarded to the next stage of
garment manufacturing.

• Roaming inspection: Designated checkers randomly check pieces at each operation along
the assembly line.

• Traffic light inspection system: In this system check each operator is given a card for
measuring their quality performance. The quality checker goes to the operator and randomly
checks a few garments. The inspection result is marked red or green on the card post scrutiny
based on rating criteria.

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• End of line inspection or table checking: Our checkers scrutinize each completely stitched
garment at the end of the line. This ensures 100% checking is done for all garments
proceeding to the next stage of garment manufacturing.

• Auditing of checked pieces: Our audit procedure is a checkpoint that ensures that only 100%
inspected garments are sent for finishing. This audit also ensures that all defective pieces are
removed from the assembly line.

COMMON DEFECTS
 Sewing Defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from wrong
functioning of sewing machines.
o Skipped Stitch
o Staggered Stitch
o Unbalanced Stitch
o Variable Stitch
o Open Stitch
o Needle Mark
 Seaming defects: These defects are usually caused by errors arising from the
interaction of the operator and machine in the handling of garment.

FINAL PRESSING AND FINISHING

FINISHING AUDIT
Initial finishing inspection: During initial finishing we ensure that the garment is scrutinized
prior to being sent for pressing.

• Final finishing Inspection: After the garments have been pressed they are again checked and
sent for tagging and packaging.

• Internal final audit: Our quality control team carries out a final audit of all packed garments.
This audit is carried out to guarantee that before handing over shipment, only top quality
garments reach our clients.

Effective quality control at each process ensures that defective garments are removed before
handing to the next step of garment manufacturing. Our checks ensure that at the end of
production the chances of having a defective garment are slim.

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FINISHING DEFECTS
 Unwanted marks on fabric
 Pin holes
 Bowing
 Pilling
 Water Spots
 Cuts or Nicks
 Seam Tears
 Streaks
 Inadequate Pressing

TYPES OF DEFECTS
Critical Defect - A defect that is likely to result in a hazardous or unsafe condition for an
individual using the product or that contravenes mandatory regulations.

Major Defect – A defect that is likely to result in failure; reducing the usability of the product
and obvious appearance defects affecting the saleability of the product.

Minor Defect – A defect that does not reduce the usability of the product but is nevertheless
a workmanship defect beyond the defined quality standard.

Defect Description Critical Major Minor

Material Defects - Woven Garments
Weaving Faults - (broken yarn) X
Weaving Faults – (missed yarn) X
Weaving Faults – (coarse yarn) X X
Weaving Faults – (slub) X
Weaving Faults – (neps) X
Weaving Faults – (colour dye bars) X
Weaving Faults – (colour stripes) X
Weaving Faults – (thick place) X
Weaving Faults – (thin place) X
Weaving Faults – (thick bar) X
Weaving Faults – (thin bar) X
Holes X
Fabric torn X
Permanent crease lines in fabric X
Permanent fold lines in fabric X
Cleanliness
Stain X X
Oil spots X X

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Oil stain X X
Water spots X
Water stain X X
Rust stain X
Pen mark X
Pencil mark X X
Chalk mark X X
Glue stain X X
Glue mark X X
Untrimmed thread ends X
Loose thread X
Dust fibres attached on fabric surface X
Loose fibres attached on fabric surface X
Appearance
Colour shade variation X X
Colour off tone X
Glaze X
Poor ironing X
Crease mark X
Wrinkle mark X
Fold mark X X
Unmatched checks X X
Unmatched stripes X X
Sewn in wrong fabric direction X
Sewn in wrong fabric side X
Washing mark X X
Uneven washing effect X
Burned X
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Scorched X
Over pressed (seam impressions) X
Stretched shape due to pressing X
Distorted shape due to pressing X
Bubbles due to improper fusing X
Stitching Defects
Broken stitches X
Skipped stitches X X
Run-off stitching X X
Uneven stitching X X
Irregular stitching X X
Wavy stitching X X
Insecure back stitching X
Loose stitch tension X X
Uneven stitch tension X X
Uneven stitch density X X
Missed stitching X
Missed bar tack X
Unmatched join stitching X X

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Missed sewing operation X
Needle chewing(cutting and holes) X
Seaming Defects
Open seam X
Puckered seam X X
Pleated seam X
Twisted seam X
Puckering X X
Frayed edges X
Folded seam X
Seams folded opposite to specified direction X
Unaligned seam X
Unmatched seam X
Uneven pleats length X X
Uneven darts width X X
Misplaced bar tacks X
Uneven seam length X X
Seam cracking on stretch fabric X
Linking seam cannot stand for stretch X
Collar/Neck
Uneven collar points X
Mis-shaped collar points X
Unbalanced collar X
Overlapping collar X
Bubble in collar fall X
Bubble in collar stand X
Uneven collar end X
Collar shape not as approved X
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Little recovery or no elasticity at neck X
Neck opening too small for wearing X
Front Placket
Uneven placket width X X
Incorrect placket width X
Uneven placket length X X
Visible under placket X X
Button & Button Hole
Missed button X
Broken button X
Insecure button stitching X
Wrong button X
Omitted button hole X
Incomplete stitching X
Uncut button hole X
Unaligned button & button hole X X
Misplaced button & button hole X X
Button stitch not properly locked X
Sleeve & Cuff

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Uneven sleeve length X X
Uneven sleeve placket length X X
Uneven sleeve placket width X X
Notches exposed at sleeve slit X
Wrong attachment of sleeve lining X
Uneven cuff width X X
Uneven cuff height X X
Front/Back Yoke/Shoulder
Excess gathering at yoke seam X X
Unmatched seams at armhole X X
Improper gathering at sleeve cap X X
Pocket & Pocket Flap
Unaligned front pockets (hi-low pocket) X X
Slanted pocket X X
Excess tightness of pocket X X
Excess fullness of pocket X X
Pocket cloth not smooth when bar tacking X X
Twisted pocket cloth X
Poorly shaped pocket X
Poorly shaped pocket corner X
Misplaced pocket position X X
Incorrect pocket position X
Exposing pocket corner X
Incorrect position of pocket flap X
Hem
Torn at rib X
Holes at rib X
Uneven hem X X
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Twisted hem X
Wavy hem X X
Ribbing
Torn at ribbing X
Holes at ribbing X
Little recovery or no elasticity at ribbing X
Lining
Lining too short or too long X
Puckering at lining seam X X
Twisted lining X
Waistband & Belt Loop
Uneven waistband (Hi-low waistband) X X
Poor waistband finishing X X
Uneven belt loop X X
Improper position of belt loop X
Missed belt loop X
Waistband stitching broken when stretched X
Little recovery or no elasticity at waistband X
Side seam turned wrongly X

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Irregular hem width X X
Embroidery
Missed embroidery X
Misplaced embroidery X
Broken embroidery stitches X
Incorrect embroidery stitch density X
Uneven embroidery stitching X X
Colour off shade or not as specified X
Wrong embroidery X
Printing Defects
Missed printing X
Misplaced printing X
Printing faults – (printing stain) X X
Printing faults – (off printing) X
Glitter / diamantes rubbing off print X
Colour off shade or not as specified X
Wrong printing X
Labels & Hangtags
Missed label X
Missed hangtag X
Wrong label X
Wrong hangtag X
Label insecurely stitched X X
Label folded by stitching X X
Part of label sewn inside seam X
Label sewn inverted (label up-side-down) X
Label sewn reversed (label up-side-down) X
Brand – no sew in, swing ticket or price ticket X
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Brand – wrong sew in, swing ticket or price X
ticket
Brand – wrong colour sew in, swing ticket or X
price ticket
Care label – no label X
Care label – label inaccessible and no details X
elsewhere
Care label – letter height under 1.5mm X
Care label – only symbols used X
Care label – not legible X
Care label – does not comply with legal X
specification
Country of Origin – no label X
Country of Origin – label inaccessible and no X
details elsewhere
Country of Origin – letter height under 1.5mm X
Country of Origin – does not comply with legal X
specification
Fibre Content – no label X

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Fibre Content – label inaccessible and no X
details elsewhere
Fibre Content – letter height under 1.5mm X
Fibre Content – does not comply with legal X
specification
Fire Safety – no label X
Fire Safety – label obscured and no details on X
packet or elsewhere
Fire Safety – not at centre back X
Fire Safety –each separate piece of garment X
not labelled
Fire Safety – incorrect label X
Fire Safety – does not comply with legal X
specification
Accessories
Scratches X X
Poor plating X
Sharp points X
Sharp edges X
Rust X
Wrong accessories X
Colour discharged X
Malfunction of zipper X
Zipper slider not running smoothly X X
Missed zipper teeth X
Missed zipper puller X
Wavy zipper X X
Poor setting of zipper X
Defect Description Critical Major Minor
Zipper tape too close to fly seam affecting X
zipper function
Detached snap X
Detached rivet X
Detached stud X
Snap too tight to close or open X X
Snap too loose to close or open X X
Fabric torn around snaps X
Missed shoulder pads X
Misplaced shoulder pads X X
Missed Velcro tapes X
Misplaced Velcro tapes X X
Packing Defects
Wrong folding size X
Wrong folding method X
Wrong hangtag X
Wrong tissue paper X
Missed hangtag X
Missed tissue paper X

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 Missed silica gel X
Missed spare button X
Polybag torn X
Body
Excess gathering at yoke seam X X
Unmatched seams at armhole X X
Improper gatherings at sleeve cap X X
Deformed shape X
Measurement
Outside tolerance less than a grade X
Outside tolerance equal to or more than a X
grade
Miscellaneous Defects
Wrong size label X
Odour X
Mildew X
Wet item X
Damp item X
Visible or disturbing mending places X

CONCLUSION

It is important to maintain a level of quality for every industry or business to get increased
sales and better name amongst consumers and fellow companies. Especially for the business
engaged in export business has to sustain a high level of quality to ensure better business
globally. Companies who are into export business hold the prestige of the country, and due
to this generally quality control standards for export are set strictly. It becomes mandatory to
have good quality control of their products as export houses earn foreign exchange for the
country. In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of
sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. In this industry, product quality
is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, fabric construction, yarn, surface
designs, colors fastness and the final finished garment products. The quality expectations for
export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets.

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REFERENCES:

 www.Supplierportal.HM.com

 www.Globalsourcing.landsend.com

 www.fashion2fiber.com

 www.onlineclothingstudy.com

 www.slideshare.com

 quality manual of matrix sourcing pvt ltd

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