ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The success of this project depends largely on the encouragement and guidelines of many.
We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people who have been instrumental in the
successful completion of this project.

We take immense pleasure in thanking Dr.Pawan Godiawala, Director – National Institute

of Fashion Institute, Mumbai, for having permitted us to carry out this project work. We would
also like to thank Dr. A.K. Khare (Professor, Department of Fashion Technology), for helping
us get in touch with people at Siyaram’s and Ms. Aboli Naik, (Assistant Professor, Department
of Fashion Technology), for guiding us throughout the internship period.

We wish to express our deep sense of gratitude to our mentors at Siyaram’s, Mr. Sadashiv
Patil (HR Manager) for his able guidance at each step and useful suggestions, which helped us in
completing the project work, in time. I would also like to thank the entire Siyaram’s team along
with Mr. Ganesh Punde (HR) in the Silk Mills and others for all their on ground and off ground
assistance in the project work and their timely inputs. Besides, I would like to thank the staff of
Siyaram’s for providing us with the best environment and facilities to complete this project.

The guidance and support received from all the team members who contributed and are
contributing to this project, was vital for the success of the project. We are grateful for their
constant support and help.

Words are inadequate in offering our thanks to our Summer Project Guide – Prof.Jomi
Chan Pattahil (Professor, Department of Fashion Technology) for his constant feedback,
encouragement, patience and cooperation in carrying out the project work.

1 Textile Internship 2018

2 Textile Internship 2018
3 Textile Internship 2018
 


4 Textile Internship 2018

5 Textile Internship 2018
6 Textile Internship 2018
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

S.No Content Page

. No.

1. Objective of Internship 8
2. Company Profile 9-12
3. Weaving Section 13-16
4. Dyeing Section 17-23
5. Testing 24-25

7 Textile Internship 2018

 OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP

The main objective was to understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production,
dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as
well as for commercial purposes.

This report is intended to describe the various dimensions of Siyaram’s Silk Mills, Tarapur Unit that
we have been able to observe in our 12-days internship.

Hence, this report has been made to elaborate all the aforementioned fields of the textile industry.

8 Textile Internship 2018

 COMPANY PROFILE

Among the creators of fashion and fashion trends in India, one name stands head and shoulders
above the rest, a company that has stayed contemporary with a vision well-focused on the future.

Siyaram’s, a part of the Rs.1250 cr. well diversified Siyaram Poddar Group, which also comprises
Balkrishna Industries Ltd and Govind Rubber Ltd, all listed companies at  Bombay Stock
Exchange,  SSM is a  small cap  company with a market cap of Rs 936.75 Cr. Siyaram's
manufactures and sells  fabrics, ready-made men’s and women's apparel, home furnishing, and
yarns.  Siyaram's is associated with over 1  lakh  retail outlets, and has over 170 branded
showrooms spread across the nation. It is one of the largest producer of fancy blended suiting’s
and shirting’s in India producing 60 million meters of fabric annually and is reputed to bring new
designs in to the market faster than any other manufacturers.

Siyaram’s high-tech plants at Tarapur and Silvassa are the most modern plants where latest
shuttle-less Dornier Rapier, Sulzer Projectile & Toyoda Air Jet weaving machines with electronic
dobby has been incorporated. The world-class processing-cum-finishing plant at Tarapur is one of
the latest and most modern plants in the country equipped with machineries imported from Japan,
Italy, U.K., Germany and Switzerland etc. This is the only plant in India which can process various
blends like polyester-viscose, poly-wool, polyester-cotton, 100% cotton and 100% polyester, under
one roof. Siyaram is the first company to introduce Relaxed Finishing System – RF 2000 in India.

In the year 1995 Siyaram’s had tied up with J.HAMPSTEAD, England for marketing of very
fine premium wool suiting in India. These suiting’s are woven from the exclusive and rich natural
fibres – merino wool, cashmere, kidmohairwool and wool silk. Looking to the increasing demand
for the wool blended suiting’s, Siyaram’s has started manufacturing of finest wool blended suiting’s
under J.HAMPSTEAD brand using fine micron merino wool imported from Australia and super fine
polyester with technical assistance from J.Hampstead.

MISTAIR – an established brand is also from the house of Siyaram’s. Mistair is highly
popular today among young generation because it keeps introducing innovative and fashionable
suitings from time to time. The sub brands introduced by Mistair are – Luxuria, M-brace, Envogue,
Lords & Kings, Breathers & Hi-flier.

On 24 September 2015, Siyaram's Silk Mills announced its global venture with a prominent
Italian brand, Cadini at Sahara Star, Mumbai. The company plans to develop an exclusive range of

9 Textile Internship 2018

fabrics in long staple cotton, Giza cotton, linen, wool cashmere, wool-silk-linen, silk, wool blends,
and jacketing fabrics in linen.

In FY07, it formed two subsidiaries namely Siyaram Polycote Ltd and Oxemberg Clothing
Ltd. The company operates five weaving plants, two yarn plants, and two readymade garment
plant spread across Maharashtra and Gujarat. It has an installed capacity of 409 looms, 616
stitching machines, and 4,500 tons of yarn dyeing capacity, of which 1,500 tons were installed in
FY07.
Siyaram Silk has also ventured into retail, opening a few shops where all its brands will be
under one roof. Siyaram Silk exports to countries in Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Australia,
America, and Latin America. Siyaram Silk Mills is the market leader in the Polyester Viscose (PV)
segment, with a reputation of ushering in the latest fashion trends. It is one of the largest players in
the market with a weaving capacity of over 25 lakhs meters every month. Siyaram is one of the
pioneers in the Indian fashion industry and after over 25 years in the industry, it still ranks amongst
the top companies in India.
Siyaram is involved in the manufacture of synthetic yarns and specialized fabrics like
Polynosic and Tencel. Equipped with the state-of-the-art weaving machines, Siyaram’s ensures
that the fabric produced is flawless. Siyaram has one of the most modern processing and finishing
plants in India. It is equipped with the latest world-class machinery imported from Europe. Superior
quality is the hallmark of Siyaram's fabrics.


SSML spends INR 180 Million for the brand building exercise. The advertising campaigns of the
company have effectively built a positive image placing all its brands - SIYARAM’S, MISTAIR,
J.HAMPSTEAD, CADINI& OXEMBERG up front in dress circles.

Oxemberg, the formal and semi-formal apparel brand from Siyaram Silk Mills, has roped in
Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan as its brand ambassador. This was done to reinforce the positioning
and concept of ‘‘Body Music -- Clothes that move to my rhythm” -- Oxemberg’s tagline.

Mission
To be the preferred partner to every stakeholder in the textile and fashion industry by delivering
high quality fabrics, implementing design-driven innovation, building trust, creating unsurpassed
value and delighting customers time and again.

Vision
To provide quality products and to be a name, synonymous with high fashion in India and across
the globe.

Values
At Siyaram’s we have chosen six core values which include – passion, integrity, team spirit,
humility, value creation and excellence.

10 Textile Internship 2018

Brands
% Siyaram's shirtings and suitings
% Mistair
% Moretti
% Royale Linen
% Little Champ
% Miniature
% Unicode
% J. Hampstead
% Oxemberg
% Siya
% Cadini
% Casa Moda

Brand Ambassadors of Siyaram’s

% MS Dhoni
% Priyanka Chopra
% Saif Ali Khan
% Hritik Roshan

Milestones
% Came into being in 1978
% Set up a production unit in Tarapur in 1980
% Successfully pursued backward integration by setting up manufacturing plant for textured
yarn at Patalganga in 1984
% Set up another weaving unit at Murbad in 1987
% Crossed 100 crore turnover in 1990-1991.
% Ventured into ready-made garment segment in 1991 and introduced Oxemberg
% In 1995, they achieved economies of scale with 240 looms and a turnover of 200 crores
% Furthur expanded the weaving capacity at Silvassa in 1997-1998
% Launched Mistair in 2001
% Crossed the 500 crore turnover mark in financial year 2008-2009
% J. Hampstead apparel was launched in 2009.
% Achieved a staggering turnover of 1000 crores in financial year 2010-2011
% Voted most trusted brand by Economic Times and Nielsen Media Research in 2013.
% Entered into women's category with the brand name Siya in 2014.
% Venture with Italian brand Cadini in 2015.

Organization Chart

11 Textile Internship 2018

 WEAVING SECTION (ASSIGNMENT 2)

12 Textile Internship 2018

The weaving section of the industry was divided in three basic sections - Suiting, Shirting and
Upholstery. The production was divided into various departments on each floor, like:
% Yarn Storage
% Preparatory Department
% Drawing Department
% Weaving
% Grey Inspection

Machines and their specifications

1. Staubli Safir 540 (FS ULTIMA 53-6A) drawing machines. In one minute, it can draw 154
ends. Price: 2.5 crores.

2. A total of 11 warping machines were used. Each warping machine had 12 creels to hold the
yarns. The speed was 600 rpm. The maximum width possible in these machines was 190
cm.
3. Karl Mayer Warp prep Sizomatic machines were used for sizing. Two of these were
available and being used. The parameters were set according to the weight and length of
yarns being sized. These parameters were - Tension, Moisture content (For cotton, less
than 12% and for PC, 60-70%) and Speed. Maintenance of this machine is done every 15
days for proper functioning.

4. Automatic drawing machine, 2 in number, was used. The speed was 100 rpm. The older
version of the machine was also there but not being used.

5. A total of 248 weaving machines were used. These machines were maintained every 6
months. Mineral oil (better) and synthetic oil used in machines, Mobil being the best option.
Their classification is as follows:
% 78 Airjet JAT 810 - They were strictly used for sized yarns with 700-800 rpm.
% 72 Somet Super X - These machines were used for polyester and its blends.
% 44 Somet 93 - These were used for linen with 500 rpm.
% 54 Dornier and Staubli Jacquard machines - Only used for furnishing textiles.
6. KSA Embroidery Machine for upholstery. This machine had 36 heads, with 6 needles in one
head. The stitch types being used were – 200 & 800. The machine had an auto stoppage
system that would stop the machine if any thread breaks. The speed of 800 rpm was used,
although 1100 rpm was the machine’s maximum speed. Every 3-4 days, the machine was
oiled and every 6 months, serviced.

Yarn Storage Department

The plant had a huge centralized go-down where all the yarns were stored. These yarns were
arranged according to the yarn count and type. Texturized yarns were stored in cartons and Spun
yarns were stored in sacks. If linen was used, they were kept in air-conditioned rooms before
warping to avoid breakage.
% All the cartons had Carton number, Lot number, Weight, Gross weight, Batch number and
Quality written on them.
% To distinguish between the white yarns, the cones were of specific colours.

% On an average, 40-50 tons of yarn was dispatched and restocked every day.
% Capacity: 1600 tons

13 Textile Internship 2018

Preparatory Department
The two major processes under this department are warping and sizing.

Warping
The daily production of the warping department was 45,000 m on an average. Knotters
were used to make sure the length of the warped yarns is according to the order given.
The yarns were also coated with wax/oil before warping to facilitate the process.

Sizing
The sizing process was mostly done for shirting fabric to increase the strength of the
yarns and to protect from the abrasion of weaving. The differentiating parameters in this
process were the moisture content in yarn, strength required and tension. These were
controlled by the machine mostly through the speed and temperature.
Earlier, binders, softeners and anti-static solvents were used to size. Nowadays, RTU
modified starch-based product and hydroxylated methylated starch were used to size
the yarns, although the latter was used the most.
The machine (Karl Mayer Warp Preparatory machine) was divided in 5 zones:
% Main beam to machine roller

% Sizing (85-90° C)

% Passed to rollers to squeeze the excess size (90-125° C)

% Separation of yarns

% Rewinding/ Warping

There were combs on the Rewinding/ Warping section of the machine for separation,
equal division of space and apt placement of the yarns on the warping wheel.

Drawing Department
There were automatic drawing machines as well as workers manually drawing the yarns. The
yarns used for shirting were drawn after sizing was done. The machine used was Staubli Safir 540
(FS ULTIMA 53-6A).

Weaving Department

Sampling
In the sampling department they produce samples of 8, 14 or 21 meters for future bulk
productions for which they require 2-4 days. Orders up to 50,000 meters are also woven
in the sample department which require at least 15 days .For shirting, the patterns are
printed on a paper and given to them along with the number of yarns and the yarn
colour. The width of the fabric produced is 60 inches to 78 inches. The samples
produced are sent to the headquarters to confirm the order and quantity. The production
capacity is 180 meters per day.
The wastage of fabric in the sample department is a minimum of 20%, whereas during
bulk production the wastage reduces to 1%. This happens because in case any problem

14 Textile Internship 2018

 arises while weaving the sample fabric, the entire process needs to be restarted which
is not the case for bulk production.
The machines are cleaned after every 3-4 samples and every 6 months a complete
evaluation and replacement of the machine parts are done.

Production Flow
Yarn sample received

Approval of yarn

Yarn ordered in bulk quantity

Fabric sample is woven

Approval of fabric

Fabric is woven in bulk

Bulk Production (Suiting)

Production capacity: 33000 meters per day
The looms are checked by an expert right before starting the weaving process of every
fabric. 64 ends are used to make the monogram.
Weaving of cotton is done at 80% RH. And therefore, the looms are generally kept near
the windows for natural humidity. Polyester/cotton blends are woven at 70% RH.
To clean the looms, there were air pipes that ejected air at high pressure to remove dust
and other particles from the looms.
Safety measures: mask, earplug

Bulk Production (Shirting and Upholstery)

Yarn capacity of this section: 500 tonnes
Production capacity of shirting: 40-42 kms per day
Production capacity of furnishing: 7 kms per day
Furnishing material: 70/30 PC, 80 – 150 deniers

SAP is used to maintain the storage and keep a track of the incoming and outgoing orders. If QA
rejects a yarn lot, it will be blocked in the system and nobody can issue/use it.
Winding is done to make cones according to the required length.

15 Textile Internship 2018

They also have an embroidery facility in house which is used to embroider fabrics as per the order.
If the fabric being embroidered is stretchable, then a water-soluble paper is used on top of the
fabric.

Inspection Department

A 100% inspection is done three times for the samples according to the four-point system which
includes checking, mending, mid-checking and final checking. The acceptance limit is 8 points for
their brand Cadini and 12 points for the rest.

DYEING SECTION (ASSIGNMENT 4)

16 Textile Internship 2018

At Siyaram’s, both yarn dyeing and piece dyeing was being done, depending on the order
requirement.

Yarn Dyeing
There were two methods for yarn dyeing:
• Package dyeing
• Space dyeing

Sample Dyeing

Production capacity: 100-150 samples/day.

Machines used in this department
1. ColorMATCH Spectro X-RITE
2. ColorFocus II (124)
3. Lab Rota Dyer
4. Red Krome II HTHP dyeing machine
5. Infra Color Dyeing Machine
6. digiWASH II
7. Hydroextractor
8. Drying Machine

The samples received by the company for orders can be in the form of yarns, fabric or pantone
number. Once they receive a sample, they use the spectrophotometer to generate a report that
contains the information of the quantities of the colours red, blue and yellow required obtaining the
particular shade. The composition is then entered into the system along with the type of the yarn
that is needed to be dyed. The system then displays the dye bath recipe and the Auto-dispenser
then collects the required dyes and other chemicals and supplies them to the respective test
tubes. The dyes are continuously stirred using a magnetic stirrer to maintain a homogenous
solution. There are sensors present to guide the test tubes.

The Auto-dispenser can hold a maximum of 124 solutions at one time.

Once the dye has been prepared, the M:L is obtained.
The samples can weigh 5gms, 50gms, 100gms or 200 gms and there are different machines for
each quantity.

Process Flow
Yarn sample received

Composition of yarn identified

Dye bath obtained

Dyeing

↓
17 Textile Internship 2018
 Hydroextractor

Drying in the oven

Testing of the sample dyed yarns

Colour Matching

Approval of the sample dyed yarn

Bulk dyeing

Dyeing of cotton
% Lab Rota dyer is used.
% 60 ° C for 30 minutes
% Add soda Ash.
% Continue process for another 30 minutes.
% Hot wash at 70 ° C using PNN (soaping agent)

Dyeing of Polyester
% HTHP m/c
% 130 ° C
% 30 minutes

Dyeing of Poly Cotton

% Disperse dye using Sodium Hydrosulphite at 90 ° C for 20 minutes
% Unfixed dyes are removed
% Reactive dye for cotton

Once the sample is dyed, the excess water is removed using a hydroextractor after which the
yarns are dried in the oven.

Bulk Dyeing

Process Flow:

Soft Winding
18 Textile Internship 2018
 ↓

Twisting (if required)

Dyeing

Coning

Winding and Coning

The machine used was SMEW-FILCONO. They had a total of 3 machines. Tension and length had
to be manually entered. It checks and records the length that has been wound. There were
sensors that would stop the process in case of a thread breakage.

• RJK - 4 machines for winding, 2 were old and 2 were new.

• SSM - 2 machines for winding. It has vacuum blowers to prevent dust which also helps in
the cooling of the machine.
• Weavetex PCW filament winder - It has Wet-Coll viscose oil to avoid abrasion.
• Aalidhra - 10 machines for coning

Twisting

Twisting was done to achieve 350 TPI for the yarns. Production capacity is 8 tons per day. ‘S’
twist is mostly done. If two plied yarns then first the individual yarns are ‘S’ twisted and then they
are combined using ‘Z’ twist. Food colour is used to mark the different cones to differentiate
between sparkling bright and normal bright polyester.
Maintenance of machines: Spindle oil changed every 3 months and gear oil changed every year.

Machines
• Aalidhra Texpro 01: 17 machines
• Cops Winder: 8 machines
• TFO: 20 machines

Package Dyeing

Production capacity: 18 tonnes per day

Types of yarn that are dyed: Cotton yarns (10s – 100s), P/C, P/V, P/W, silk. NO NYLON.
Machines used in this department were
1. Lorris Bellini and LPK for dyeing. Total number of Machines: 31
% 1000 kg: 2 machines
% 500 kg: 2 machines
% 300 kg: 1 machine
% 250 kg: 1 machine
% 200 kg: 2 machines
% 150 kg: 3 machines
% 100 kg: 9 machines
19 Textile Internship 2018
 % 70 kgs: 6 machines
% 50 kgs: 5 machines
% 35 kg: 1 machine
2. Monga Strayfield: RF Dryer (only for cotton and PVC). The yarns are dried using an RF
dryer. Time and temperature is to be set according to the material. The capacity is 100-125
kgs. Once the yarns are dried, finishes are applied manually to a small quantity to check if
there is any effect on the shade.
3. Dettin Hydroextractor: 50%-55% moisture is removed using a hydroextractor. The capacity
of the machine is 3 pounds – 18 pounds and the speed is 1200 rpm.
4. Automatic shade dispenser is used for consistency for which the chemicals are restocked
every 24 hours. More than 60 dyes (reactive, acid, sulphur and disperse) were stored.

The dye machines are washed using caustic soda and water after every dye cycle.
The cones were separated using plastic sheets to prevent the dyed yarns from touching one
another.
The total yarn wastage is below 1%.

Parameters for dyeing

• Pump speed
• In-out, out-in timing
• Temperature
• Dye mix time (before yarn is inserted) (10-15 mins for light shade; 30 mins dark shade)

Safety measures: shoes are compulsory.

Possible errors while dyeing

• Problem in pumping
• Mistake in paperwork
• Wrong pH
• Power failure
• Machine stoppage for any other reason

Space Dyeing

It can be done after dyeing the spool or for undyed yarns as well. The materials that can be space
dyed are polyester and cotton. Blends cannot be dyed using this method. Productivity = 1.5 kgs
per minute per machine.
There is no difference in the dyebath. The tube takes the dye and ejects it onto the yarn package
according to the pattern that has been entered into the machine. The high pressure allows the dye
20 Textile Internship 2018
to penetrate into the package. Only 60%-70% of the dye is utilized and remains in the spool. The
yarn packages are then kept in the Autoclave after dyeing for fixing the dye. Then, the packages
are washed in water and soap to remove the superficial dyes. The packages are then put into a
hydroextractor to remove the water.

Machine used for space dyeing is Weavetex. There were a total of 6 machines. The machines are
cleaned daily and the parts are examined every 8 days. The daily cleaning only requires water
because no heat is used in the dyeing machine for dye fixation.

THE DYES WERE STORED IN AN OPEN ROOM WHICH IS NOT THE BEST METHOD TO
STORE DYES. THE COMPANY WAS WORKING TOWARDS CREATING AN AIR-
CONDITIONED ROOM FOR THEIR DYE STORAGE.

Yarn studio

A room used to catalogue the different types of yarn that have ever been produced in the plant.
This helped with prospective clients and orders.

Fabric Dyeing
Mainly poly viscose and poly wool were dyed in this stage. The first step is to segregate the fabrics
into domestic and export orders. The process for every order is followed according to the job card
but the common process flow is as follows.

Process Flow
Inspection of grey fabric

Heat Set

Singeing (900-1300 degree Celsius)

Scouring (jet and jigger)

Weight reduction (treatment with caustic)

Dyeing

Checking

21 Textile Internship 2018

 ↓

Warp shrinkage

Softener (if required)

Calendaring

Comfit

Decatizing

Inspection

Grey department
Rolls are checked before they are processed. The rolls that have to go through the same process
are stitched together to allow a continuity in the process.

Gas singeing
Both the surfaces of the fabric were being singed. The parameters that could be controlled were
speed, flame position and temperature. The fabrics were then passed between two rollers which
had water running inside them to bring down the temperature of the fabric. The temperature of the
flame reaches 1200° C, thus the speed of the process needs to be set according to the fabric.

Scouring
The machines being used to scour the fabrics can also be used for dyeing. The fabrics are kept at
85 for 30 – 35 minutes. The chemicals being used for scouring were Cida scour and Cida bright.

% Super finishes are applied for extra smooth texture and shine. The chemicals being used
were not revealed.
% Flame Retardant finish is also done for furnishing fabrics.
% After Calendaring, the fabric becomes a little brittle. The fabric is passed along a rubber belt
in the presence of steam to make the fabric a little softer. This process is called Comfit.
% Soil release, water repellency, and stiffness finishes were applied as per order.
% Once the dyeing and finishing is done, checking is done in three phases. After the first
checking, marking and mending is done of possible defects. Once the mending is done, the
fabric is checked two more times before dispatch.

Machines used in this department

22 Textile Internship 2018
 1. Jet machine (rope form): 6 machines
2. Yamuna Jigger (open width): 8 machines
3. Soft flow dyeing machine: 2 machines
4. Shearing machine was present but non-functional.
5. Flow drying machine: Fabric is dried using this machine. Temperature of the machine is
changed according to the GSM and type of fabric.

Finishing machines being used were either Mortez or Yamuna.

Jet dyeing (VAT dye)

% High temperature rapid jet machine was used.
% The temperature is between 110-135 ° C.
" Capacity: 500 kgs
% 12-15% extra fabric is dyed.
% Loading and unloading is manual in all the machines.
% 1:8 M:L ratio is maintained.
% The machine can hold liquor up to 8 thousand litres.
% A sample of the fabric is taken midway during the dyeing process and dried to check
whether they are getting the desired shade. For better quality of dyeing and for delicate
fabrics, soft flow machine is used. Once dyeing is done, the fabric is converted from roper
form to book folds and dried. One round was for 15-20 minutes and a total of 6 rounds were
conducted to complete the dyeing process.

TESTING AND QUALITY (ASSIGNMENT 6)

Testing Of Yarns
• Electronic twist tester
• Yarn evenness tester - Tolerance is 1%
• GSM checking
• Beesley Balance - Tolerance is 4%
• Blend composition
• Sublimation Tester
• Digi strength tester
• Wash Fastness – Soda Ash 2gm/L and Soap 5gm/L
• Tensile testing machine
• CrockMeter (Wet and Dry)
• CSP – Wrap Reel, 80 rounds or 107 rounds
• Colour Matching Cabinet
23 Textile Internship 2018
 − The colour matching process is done either by the experience or using
Spectrophotometer.
− The machine is first calibrated using a black and white tile.
− The report obtained is known as the Delta report which gives us the difference
between the required shade and the obtained shade.
− If the delta value is less than 1, the shade is acceptable.
• Uster Classimat five for defects
− Acceptance criteria are 8 faults per 100 kms of yarn. Detects small, medium and
large faults.

For spun yarns the tests conducted are

• Count: tolerance 4%
• TPI – tolerance 4-6%
• Blend Test
• Board appearance test for evenness of yarn: tolerance 1%
• CSP (count strength product)
• Continuity card for shade checking.

For polyester only denier and set matching is done.

Machines used in this department

1. Colour match SPECTRO-XRITE
2. Digi Strength 1 Nx
3. MacBeth SpectraLight III

% TDS – Total Dissolved Solids (done for water)

% COD – Chemical Oxygen Demand (For wastage, check water and other solutions for
toxicity)
% For Bulk production, only the shade variation and Strength is checked. One cone is divided
in 3 parts and wounded separately to check for colour consistency. Then from each part, 2
leas of 80 rounds are tested for strength.

Testing of Fabrics
Handlooms samples are received from Head Office to test before bulk production.

% pH (of the waste water, it is supposed to be between 6.5 -7.5)

% GSM
% Width
% Crease Recovery Angle (shirting: 120; suiting: 230).
% Tear tester - The result is in pounds or grams. Siyaram’s standard minimum tear strength is
3 pounds.

24 Textile Internship 2018

 % Spray test for Teflon coated fabrics
% SDL Atlas Crockmeter for pilling (3-4% acceptable)

% Incubator for perspiration and water fastness (4% for India; 3.5% for UK; 3% for USA)
% Sublimation fastness (160 degree Celsius polyester; 180 degree Celsius for wool, for 30
seconds)
% Seam slippage- 12 stitches per inch (stitch with 40 tex poly cotton thread and #18 needle)
% Tensile strength - Standards at Siyaram’s is 18 kgs.
Process: Apply weight to the fabric till an opening of 6 mm is achieved. The weight that
gives the opening is used to determine the tensile strength.
% Stretch board for Lycra: 3 pounds for half an hour and then record. Remove the weight and
leave the Lycra for one hour. Then record the length again. Maximum tolerance is 2 %
% ICI box pilling tester (digiPILL i2): In one box you can keep 4 samples (125 X 125 mm
sample size) for 5 hours. The box is made of cork sheet which is changed every 2-3
months.
% Light fastness tester (Paramount digiLight): A sample of 5 X 12 cm is taken and put inside a
test tube for 24 hours for suiting and shirting and 48 hours for upholstery fabrics. The test
tube is kept inside the tester and subjected to xenon bulb to check the light fastness.

MACHINES

1. HTHP Red Krome II

HTHP Red Krome II for applying finishes on a small sample. The sample is 5 grams in
200 ml pot. Party sends samples or chooses from in house samples.
2. Paramount Crease Recovery Tester
3. Martindale abrasion (2000 revs)
4. Tinius Olsen- tensile strength tester
5. digiPILL i2 (60 rpm)
6. Paramount Digi light - light fastness tester

BIBLIOGRAPHY

http://www.siyaram.com/our-company/mission/

25 Textile Internship 2018

 LEARNING OUTCOME

This visit consist of information about the company SIYARAMS.

• This visit helped us to recognize the process unit.

• To see all the inputs and outputs.

• Understand the working strategy of the company

• The division of the departments and how the operations were being done.

First we visited yarn dyeing and testing department where we came across different machines like
spectrophotometer, dye mixing machine, warp wheel etc.

26 Textile Internship 2018

We saw all the processes step by step. Testing was being done to check the strength, bleeding,
color fastness and shade matching. Only after this the yarn will go for the approval if it will meet
the expectations of the buyer.

Then we went to TWISTING SECTION where we saw different types of twists which were used to
make the yarn. They were using powder around the spool to differentiate the yarn and it was
washable.

We saw DYEING DEPARMENT and came to know types of dyes they were using and machines
they were using. We came across the parameters they were following but the dyes which were
being used were kept in an open place which is not suitable we asked about it and they told us
that they were building a place for it, we saw grey yarn storage. They were dyeing as per the
requirement of the party or sometimes they were using their own shades.

We visited weaving department for sampling, they were using different kinds of yarns and they
were tagged to differentiate accordingly, first the sample was made then it will go for the approval
and if the sample is approved then only it would go for the bulk production. There was manual
weaving as well as machine one.

The other day we visited weaving for bulk production for SUITING AND SHIRTING, the processes
were same but in a large amount. Each department had the quality checking dept too where it will
go for checking and meet the needs of the buyer then only it will go for the further process. Also,
we saw FURNISHING and its machines called Jacquard and its features.

We went to visit PROCESSING Dept where we saw different types of process like seinging,
scouring, calendering etc we saw all process in detail and saw types of finishes which were being
applied like mechanical finishes and functional finishes. We came to know production done in a
day, the capacity of the machines. Then we visited their quality check dept, and came to different
parameters for checking of the fabric.

We visited WINDING AND CONING dept, came across the machines and its number, its capacity
and maintenance and the materials used were perforated metal and plastics.

Finally we saw their CUTTING AND PACKAGING dept and we saw different types of materials
they were using for packaging and machines used and they were also checking again before
packing the fabric and if there was any fault they were mending it there only and then packing was
done. For the exporting they were using high quality plastic but for domestic, normal one.

Space dyeing was also there, we saw its operations, machines and the process and also we saw
Embroidery machine.

From this visit we came to know about the costing, workers, its processes, maintenance, strategy,
parameters used by the company itself, and requirements of the buyer and production statistics of
the company.
Meghana Verma
BFT/
16/143]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]

27 Textile Internship 2018

During the course of the textile internship at Siyaram’s (Tarapur), there were various processes
and equipments that caught my attention. For instance, I got to witness the working of a
spectrophotometer. At the beginning of the process, they were using a black and a white tile to
calibrate the machine prior to testing the yarn for the shade. A first hand experience of the report
generated gave me an idea about the complexity involved in interpreting the report. The
autodispensor in the laboratory had magnetic stirrers that continuously moved inside the beakers
containing dyes and chemicals so as to maintain the homogeneity of the solution. There were
sensors to guide the metal test tubes in which the dyes and chemicals were being mixed; and
even the water insertion was being done with utmost accuracy. A lot of care was taken at each
step so as to get the correct shade. The dye stuff being used for the different types of dyes were
same as the ones we had studied, with variation only in the brand names. In the testing
department there was a machine called Infra Colour that could be used to dye both cotton and
polyester. Apart from testing the physical and chemical characteristics of the yarns received, the
laboratory also checked the outgoing water for the toxicity content so as to cause minimum harm
to the environment. Khakhi is the most difficult colour to achieve and takes a minimum of three
tries to get the shade. The twisting department was the noisiest section where earplugs were
mandatory for noise reduction. Two processes were mainly taking place, winding and
intermingling. Winding was mainly done to separate the damaged yarns from the good ones and
to form cones of desired weight.

There was a sample department that made fabrics in small quantities to send new patterns to
potential buyers. However, the wastage percentage of yarns was as high as 20% whereas during
bulk production the wastage reduces to 1%. Drawing is the most tedious process and manual
drawing took around two hours for a 76 inch fabric. To increase the productivity the company had
automatic drawing machines that had the capability to draw 154 ends in 1 minute. This was a
relatively new machine that I had not seen before. The looms had different colour lights to indicate
any problem that occurred during weaving.

Yarns storage was done in a very systematic manner and linen yarns were stored in air
conditioned rooms to avoid breakage during weaving. There was a machine called Classimat
which gave a complete MRI report of the yarn. Food colouring was used to colour the white yarns
to distinguish between their type and content. Humidifiers were placed in the weaving section but
were not being used. Cotton and its blends were produced on looms placed near the windows to
allow natural humidity to play its role.

During sizing the moisture content was being regulated. For cotton, the moisture content was less
than 12% while for P/C the moisture content was higher to reduce the tendency of hairiness.
Hairiness typically occurs in P/C blends because polyester does not bend easily as compare to
cotton and thus ruptures resulting in portruding fibres.

In the embroidery section, in case the material being embroidered on was stretchable, a layer of
water soluble paper was being placed between the needle and the fabric.

The dyeing section was fully automised. A program had to be selected after which the dyes and
chemicals would automatically get dispensed into the respective containers to begin the dyeing
process. There was a small portion in the dyeing section that applied finishes on the yarns
manually to check for the shade variation occurring thereafter. The most interesting section here

28 Textile Internship 2018

was space dyeing where 8 colours could be used for a single cone which could be divided into 60
sections. Unlike the traditional dyeing methods, dyeing and heat application for setting the dye
was not taking place in the same machine. Once the dye is applied to the cone, it is sent to an
autoclave machine for dye fixation and then later washed and dried. Due to this process, the
dyeing machine can be washed using only water whereas the other dyeing machines have to be
washed with hydro caustic acid along with water.

For the processing of the fabric at least three rolls were stitched together to form continuity. They
had finishes such as water repellant, soil repellant, and flame retardant other than the basic
finishes. A different machine to check pilling in the fabric was the Digi Pill i2. In this the fabric was
stitched around a cylinder and placed in a box whose insides were made of cork sheet. The box
was rotated for a certain period of time after which the fabric was checked under daylight 65 for
the extent of pilling. For light fastness the fabric for suiting and shirting was subjected to xenon arc
for 24 hours whereas the upholstery fabric was kept for 48 hours. In case of wool blends, the
fabrics are placed in an air conditioned room after the finishes have been applied. This is done
because the actual properties of wool can only be determined after this time period. If the
properties are not what are desired, then the fabric is sent again to apply the required finish.
Finishes, such as weight reduction, decreases the strength of the fabric by almost 30% and so the
finishes are applied only where required.

Sanvritti Rana
BFT/16/18

29 Textile Internship 2018

India’s one of the largest textile industry Siyaram’s Silk Mill has 17 plants in Tarapur for fabric and
garment manufacturing along with the headquarters situated in Kamala Mills, Lower Parel
Compound, Mumbai.The company deals with – Fabrics, Apparels, Home furnishing and yarns.

The company produces over 60 million meters of fabric annually with more than 200 showrooms
spread across the nation. We visited 5 departments namely –
1. Testing Department

2. Winding Department

3. Dyeing Department

4. Weaving – Suiting

5. Shirting and Furnishing

A major eye capturing machine was Auto dispenser Machine in the Testing department, which had
a capacity of keeping 124 colors at a time. It could mix dyes in different ratios and different
compositions to make the desired colour of dye. The industry had a COD tester too which was
brought to use before draining the chemicals in the water. It was a relief to see the industry taking
care of the environment and treating the waste chemicals and water too. The industry had 6
machines for space dyeing too which could accommodate a maximum of 8 colours at a time. They
had just introduced this and did not require it much, so it was on a small scale.

There was a double winding machine in the winding department which was first making a S twist
and then while intermingling two yarns, it was making a Z twist. Siyaram’s Silk Mills don’t
manufacture Lycra and if at times when they require it, they buy it from outside or else ask the HO
department to produce the required amount. The width of the woven fabric is usually from
60-78inches. There was an altogether different unit of Rapier machines for the manufacturing of
jacquard curtains and sarees. They also had huge embroidery machines too. The linen which they
were producing for suiting was kept in an air conditioned room before warping in order to avoid
breakage.

For storing of the yarns, they had a centralised warehouse which had a capacity of 15-16 ton of
yarn. The storage area had texturized yarns too. They were importing from China as well.

The working environment was very peaceful and organised. Every unit had their own canteen
which would prepare lunch and evening snacks for all the workers. The HRs were very
cooperative and would help us with everything we needed from time to time. The company had
given us accommodation in their guest house which was very clean and the kitchen was
accessible by us as well. The workers there, truly made us feel like coming home to Siyaram’s!

Srishti Gupta
BFT/16/95

30 Textile Internship 2018

There are various things that I got to learn by the hands-on experience offered in during our
internship at Siyaram’s. Not only was I able to see and understand all that we have learnt
theoretically. A practical representation of all the machines and processes was crucial in
completely understanding the working of the industry.

There are various topics that we learnt about during class. The conversion of fibre to fabric
includes a long list of processes. Out of these processes, we saw sampling, weaving, dyeing as
well as other processes that can be included in the process of finishing.

Siyaram’s fabric manufacturing unit in Tarapur had various units, each catering to various aspects
of the manufacturing process.

Dyeing and Winding of yarns:

This was one of their bigger units. The processes of winding and dyeing were taking place
simultaneously. They had various recipes for different dyebaths. The conditions in which the
workers had to work were extremely dire. The temperatures were soaring extremely high and
there was not much ventilation. Working in such conditions was commendable. Having this
experience taught me about the hardships that the workers face. There needs to be a solution and
we need to find it soon.

Most machines used were imported. Machines from Italy and other parts of Europe were being
used. There were only a handful of machines of Indian origin. This is also another aspect that can
be improved in terms of maximizing use of Indian products.

Various sustainable machines are now replacing the older versions and the industry is working
towards becoming more and more sustainable while trying to reduce the pressure on the
environment.

Weaving:

I never thought that the process of weaving would be any different but as the final product
changes, the material changes. The process for weaving fabrics for shirting, suiting and furnishing
are quite different and require experts.

The investment required for even one new machine is extremely high and there is a minimum of
20 machines in each unit which just goes to prove that the textile business has large amounts of
cash flows.

Tanaya Deshpande
(BFT/16/122)

31 Textile Internship 2018

 APPENDIX

• Digital strength Tester

Purpose: to determine Strength and CSP of yarn lea.
Method:
− Switch on the machine and display panel.
− Let the self-check to complete.
− Use unload button to lower down the moving jaw
− Put lea between two jaws.
− Press load button to move the jaw.
− Specimen will break due to constant rate of elongation.
− Put off the machine and note reading.
− Repeat this for all test samples.
− Calculate CSP with the help of below formula: CSP = Kgf x 2.205 x count

• Blend Composition
Purpose: to determine blend composition.
Method:
− Take 1.5gms to 2gms of yarn sample for testing.
− Dip sample in the solution for 1 hour.
− Stir the specimen 3-4 times during the period.
− Viscose/Wool will dissolve in 72% concentrated Sulfuric Acid Solution.
− Carefully drain the solution & take out sample for washing.
− Neutralisation: Wash with soda ash 3 times with plenty of water.
− Wash and rinse with tap water.
− Dry the sample in oven for 1hr at 100 degree in oven.
− Take out final weight to calculate percentage of polyester.
Caution: Acids are corrosive. Avoid skin contact.

• Digital Hot Air Oven

Purpose: to dry the specimen.
Method:
− Open the door of the oven.
− Place the specimen on shelf.
− Shut the door & switch on the heater.
− Press the knob and set desired temp.

32 Textile Internship 2018

 − Temperature will rise to required level within 10-12mins.
− Hold the specimen at desired temp as per requirement.
− Switch off the main and remove the specimen.
Caution: Do not open the door during heating time.

• Wrap Wreel
Purpose: To prepare yarn lease.
Method:
− Place cones on yarn stand.
− Tie each end to respective screw
− Set the counter at 80 rounds with thumb wheel setting.
− After required rounds reel will stop.
− Cut every end from bobbin and unite both ends.
− Slide and remove the lea from wheel.
− The leas are ready for strength or count testing.

• GSM Checking
Purpose: to check gram per square under the weight of fabric.
Method:
− Keep the fabric sample 0.2 meter on rubber pad.
− Push and rotate the blade of rotter.
− Remove the cutter after cutting the sample.
− Measure the width of sample.
− Measure the cut sample with the help of weight balance
GSM = Length of sample in CM x weight of circular cut sample in GM
Caution: Sample should be straight and without wrinkle on rubber pad.

• Yarn evenness tester

Purpose: to prepare boards for yarn appearance checking.
Method:
− Place board onto board fixing position.
− Tighten screws properly to hold it firmly.
− Check the spacing by making small wrapping on it.
− Count up neps, slubs, foreign particles to know evenness.
− Evaluate yarn for hairiness.
− Grade the yarn based on overall appearance.

• Electronic Twist Tester

Purpose: to determine twist per unit length in yarn.
Method:
− Switch on the machine.
− Allow the machine for self-check & press programming key.
− Follow instructions at display panels.
− Select yarn specifications to be tested.
− Put specimen between jaws.
− Adjust dead weight just to straighten the sample.
− Stretch specimen until zero indicator light glow.
− For single yarn take reading directly.
− For double yarn move needle between plies.
− Fine tune for 0 twist with the help of finger knob.
− Take reading.
33 Textile Internship 2018
Caution – Discard 100 mtrs yarn between consecutive testing.

• Beesley Balance
Purpose: to determine count of yarn in fabric specimen.
Method:
− Ensure perfect levelling of the Beesley balance.
− Set the pointer in line with datum line by adjusting side crew.
− Use template to cut exact lengths of yarn specimen.
− Put rider at one end of cross beam.
− Hang yarn specimens at other end of the cross beam.
− Count the threads to determine count directly.

• SOP for Rota Dyer Machine (Cotton)

Heating program for rota dyeing machine

Procedure:
− Take previously dispense pots with color and auxiliaries (salt) from the autodispenser
machine.
− Now load the pots in rota dyer.
− Start machine at R.T.
− Allow to run machine with Salat and color at 60 degree for 20mins
− After that add soda in each pots as per chart.
− Now run machine for another 45mins.
− And now drain it and rinse the material below tap water and neutralise it with acetic acid.
− Now give soaping at 90degree for 15min and drain, and again give hot wash at 80degreesC
for 10mins.

• SOP For I.R. Machine (Cotton)

Heating Program for I.R. Machine

Procedure:
− Take previously dispense pots with color and auxiliaries (salt) from the autodispensor
machine.
− Now load the pots in L.R. Machine.
− Start machine at R.T.
− Allow to run machine with salt and color at 80degreeC for 20mins.
− After that add soda in each pots as per below list.
− Now run machine for another 45mins.
− And now drain it and rinse the material below tap waterland neutralise it with acetic acid.
− Now give soaping at 90degreeC for 15min and drain, and again give hot wash at
80degreeC for 10mins.
− Then give a cold wash.

• SOP for Shade Matching in color matching cabinet

− The shade to be matched is placed on the base of the cabinet and compared or matched in
as per needed illumenent.
− The cabinet is comprised of six different illumenent for better visual result.
− The illumenent I the Macbeth are viz, Day-Light, Cool-White, Horizon, UV, TL-84+ U-30 &
A.
34 Textile Internship 2018
 − Shade is matched in one of the above light as per the customer’s requirements.

• SOP for Auto Dispenser (Color Focus – 2)

− The main moto of the auto dispenser is to dispense color accurately and perfectly to
achieve better results.
− First open Color Focus software and add data or recipe.
− Second save data and click start, now dispenser, start to dispense color.
− The dispenser consists of 126 bottles for color solution storage with different quantity as
well as different concentration for better dispensing.
− There are five chemicals & reagents dispensing bottles.
− The two dispensing arms works simultaneously so as to decrease the total time elapsed for
dispensing.
− The machine is a low maintenance high efficiency and better accuracy as compared to
manual dispensing.

• Strength & Elongation/ Tenacity of the yarn

Purpose: to check actual strength & Elongation/ Tenacity of singly yarn of incoming
material.

INSTRUMENT ACCESORIES

1. Wrap Reel Machine

2. Weighing Balance Machine Raw Material
3. Calculator
4. Single Lea Strength Tester

Procedure:
− It’s a single yarn strength tester.
− First to set the scale on 20cms.
− Now the yarn is to be fixed at 20 FMS knob and then in normal tension it is to be fixed.
− Now start the machine after zero reading.
− Note down the reading which is strength of the yarn and take 5 reading as above.
− Also note down the reading on scale when the yarn is breacked and it is elongation of the
yarn.

Calculation:
− Note down the strength of single yarn display meter.
− Elongation % = Actual reading – Settled reading

Settled reading x 100

− Tenacity = Strength/Act. Denier

− Note down the result.

35 Textile Internship 2018

 • Testing procedure for check strength & CSP

INSTRUMENT ACESSORIES

1. Wrap Reel Machine

2. Weighing Balance Raw Material
Machine
3. Calculator
4. Single Lea Strength
Tester

Procedure:
− It is a lea yarn strength tester.
− First to make the different lea of 80 rounds with the help of weighing balance.
− Note the lea wt.
− Check the resultant count by the help given calculation of each lea.
− Now yarn is to be fixed at 20cms knob and then in normal tension it is to be fixed.
− Now start the machine after zero reading.
− Note down the reading which is strength of the yarn and take 5 reading as above.

Calculation:
− Count = 64.8/Weight of Lea
− CSP =Average count x Average strength x 2.204

• Testing procedure for Sodium Hydro – Sulphite

Purpose: To check % Purity of sodium Hydro – Sulphite (hydro) eq. Weight – 43.5

APPARATUS CHEMICALS

1. 250ml Volumetric Flask

2. 250ml Conical Flask 1. Sodium Hydro –
3. 25ml Pipette Sulphite
4. 50ml Burette 2. Formaline Solution
5. Glass rod 3. Starch as Indicator
6. Weighing Balance 4. Glacial Acetic acid
5. 0.1N iodine

Procedure:
− Take approximately 2.5 to 3.0gm accurate weight of Sodium Hydro Sulphite & dissolve it in
50ml FSolution.
− End point – Colourless to blue

36 Textile Internship 2018

 Calculation:
% Purity of Sodium Hydro Sulphite = BR x 0.004353 x 0.1 x 500 x 100
10 x 0.1 x W
= B.R x 21.76W

• Testing procedure for Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)

Purpose: To check % purity of the Hydrogen Peroxide Equivalent Weight = 17

APPARATUS CHEMICALS

1. 250ml Volumetric Flask

2. 10ml pipette 1. Hydrogen peroxide
3. 250ml conical flask 2. 10% Sulphuric Acid
4. 50ml burette 3. 0.1N Potassium
5. Glass rod Permaganate
6. Weight Balance

Procedure:
− First weigh the sample of hydrogen peroxide accurately approximate 2 to 3gms.
− Make it up to 250ml in the volumetric flask with the distilled water.
− Take 10ml of diluted solution in the conical flask and add 10-20ml of 10%
Sulphuric Acid in the conical flask
− Titrate is against 0.1N Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4) from burette
− Note the end point up to colorless to pink.

Calculation:
% Purity of H2O2 = BR x 17 x 25
Weight of sample x 100

• Testing procedure for check rubbing fastness of the yarn

Purpose: to check actual rubbing fastness Dry & Wet

APPARATUS CHEMICALS

1. Wrap Reel Machine

2. Digi Crock Meter 1. Dyed Material
3. Calculator 2. RFD Cotton (5x5
sample size water)

Procedure:
37 Textile Internship 2018
 − Make 1 hank 80 round to use of wrap reel machine
− To check the rubbing fastness first make lea and then fix it in the machine with knob.
− To check dry fastness, first place the white scoured cloth in the crock meter and give 10
strocks with the handle on the fabric on the cotton cloth.
− As above to check wet fastness, first cloth should be in wet condition and after wetting it
squeeze it and then fix it in crock meter and again give 10 strocks with handle and then
take it out and dry it in oven.
− The arm is fixed in such a way that it automatically moves the dyed material to be tested.
Now check the rubbing fastness with gray scale and give rating for both dry and wet.

• Testing procedure for washing fastness of the yarn for cotton ISO-C03

Purpose: To check the wash fastness of dyed material (check staining)

INSTRUMENT ACCESORIES

1. Wrap Reel Machine

2. Digi wash 1. Dyed material
2. Multifiber
3. Water
4. Std. Soap: Soda

Procedure:
− Make 1 hank 80 round to use of wrap reel machine
− Take dyed sample and white sample of same in 1:2 ratio

Prepare solution as below:

− Soda ash: 2GP
− Soap 5GPL
− MLR should be 1:50
− Start machine and rise the temp to 60degree and allow to run for 30mins
− Now take out the material and properly rinse and then neutral it with acetic acid and dry it
and heck with the scale for rating.

38 Textile Internship 2018