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Layout Basics: by James D. Thompson
Layout Basics: by James D. Thompson
By James D. Thompson
December, 2005
I was taught most of my basic layout in the late 1950’s by a journeyman Millwright who
was dirty, smelled badly, and was constantly spitting tobacco juice on everything and
everybody near him. He was almost illiterate, and spoke like an illiterate, and cursed
constantly. His only saving grace was that he knew what there was to know about layout,
and was willing to teach me. I will always be grateful to him for the knowledge he
imparted to me. His teaching was the basis for me learning more advanced layout later
and earning my living doing layout work. A good portion of the pipe in the mammoth
California Water Project was laid out by me.
Layout is accomplished using one or both basic methods: Centerline layout and/or
baseline layout.
In centerline layout the center of the object is found and a line is drawn through it,
usually vertically. A horizontal centerline is also often used in conjunction with the
vertical line, or alone. Measurements are mostly made from these 2 lines.
In baseline layout a base line is established, usually on or along one edge of the object.
Another baseline can be established, usually at the end of the object, and this line is
usually perpendicular to the first baseline. Measurements are mostly made from these 2
lines.
Notice that I said, “mostly made” from these lines. You can use any combination of base
lines and center lines to get the job done. There are no hard and fast rules, just
guidelines that you may or may not choose to follow.
One of the first things I always tried to teach my apprentices was how to connect 2
points with a straight line. Here they are points A and B.
Bring the straightedge up to the pencil, and then use the pencil (or scribe) as a pivot
point to move the straightedge to the second point.
I have watched many apprentices trying to align the straightedge with both points at the
same time, without using the pencil for a pivot, and it is always a struggle. This way is
quick and accurate.
Here is how I establish a square line at the end of a line without using a square. I learned
this when I was laying out large steel plate. The ends of a large steel plate are rarely
square, so a square line has to be established near the end. A framing square is not large
enough to draw a line all the way across a 12’ wide plate.
You, of course, are not going to lay out any large plate using this method. And on most
of your work you will simply use a square. But you can impress people at parties by
showing them how to do this. It is pretty cool, and if you can do this you can say that
you can do your entire layout without a square.
Set your compass or divider at any convenient distance. Usually this will be slightly less
than half the distance across the plate. Swing an arc back across the line.
Using the same setting on the compass, swing an arc to intersect the first arc.
Still using the same setting on the compass set off another point on the line.
PS
I received a post from John Lederer showing me another way to erect a perpendicular at
the end of a line.
Place your compass center above the line, and draw a circle that intersects the line at A
and at arbitrary point D. Now draw a line from D, through the center of the circle, till it
intersects the circle again at point E. From E to A will be a line at right angles to A-B.
A word about compasses and lead. This probably should have been the first page of the
series.
There are a great many different types of compasses and dividers. This picture shows
one of my sets. The tool at the bottom right is for making very small circles.
If you always sharpen the lead on the inside you will always be able to come back to your
layout after sharpening without having to readjust your compass. It is just a timesaver.
One of the most basic things in layout is bisecting a line. This simply is a way to find the
center of a line, or anything else for that matter.
On line A-B, set the compass to any distance greater than half the length of the line.
Then using both A and B as centers, swing intersecting arcs above and below the line.
A line drawn through the intersections will cut line A-B exactly in half.
Draw a circle of the desired size and then draw a centerline. With the compass set to the
radius of the circle, swing arcs both ways from both the top and bottom intersection.
If the centerline is drawn vertically, then the hexagon will have a point on top. If the
centerline is drawn horizontally, then the hexagon will have a flat on top.
Another basic layout technique is dividing things into a number of equal parts. This can
be quite frustrating when done any other way.
Let’s say that I want to divide this page into 6 equal parts. I ask myself what numbers
can be divided by 6. And the answers are 6, 12, 18, 24, and so on. So now I check to see
which of these numbers of inches will fit diagonally across the page. In this case 12
inches works.
So I divide 12 by 6 and get 2. That means that the equal divisions are 2” apart on the
measuring rule. So I mark every 2 inches.
Well, then you are just out of luck! No! Just kidding!
If you want 5 equal spaces, just ask what numbers are divisible by 5. They are 5, 10, 15,
and so on. Use the one that will fit across the page on a diagonal. If 10” will fit, then the
marks will be 2” apart on the rule. If 15” will fit, then the marks will be 3” apart on the
rule. December, 2005
The numbers don’t have to come out as even numbers. Here I want to divide the width of
the page into 10 equal parts. But 20 inches will not fit in the distance across the page.
Oh, yes I can! 1 1/2 inches times 10 equals 15 inches, and 15 inches will fit diagonally
across the page. Sometimes you have to put on the thinking cap, but this method always
works.
This one is a double feature because one leads into the other.
A couple of years back I read in the Tips and Tricks page of a magazine a tip from a
reader who had discovered a very complicated way to lay out 12 equal spaces on a circle.
He was using 2 framing squares to accomplish this. His ultimate reason for doing this
was that he wanted to make a clock face.
Draw a circle of the required size and draw a centerline through it. Set your compass at a
distance approximately the diameter of the circle.
Draw the line which is now the horizontal centerline. The circle has now been quartered.
That is the first part of the solution.
Logic tells you that if the radius can be used to lay out a 6-sided figure, that it must also
be able to describe a 12-sided figure. So what would be the result if you were to divide
the circle into 8 parts?
There are several devices for sale which are supposed to help you find the center of a
piece of stock that you want to turn in your wood lathe. And they work just fine, as long
as the stock is round or square.
But usually the piece I want to turn is NOT square or round. It is likely to be almost any
shape. Like the piece shown below.
I set the dividers to an approximate size and put one leg on the approximate center.
Now I double check to make sure the stock is big enough for its intended use.
On the drive end of the wood the mounting method depends on how I intend to drive the
piece, but I always have to have at least a small, shallow hole drilled for reference.
I bought and made several different devices for this, but in the end I found that my
trusty dividers are easier and more certain than any other method.
January, 2006
© James D. Thompson
© James D. Thompson