CEBU INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY – UNIVERSITY

COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING AND ARCHITECHURE

DEPARTMENT OF CHEMICAL ENGINEERING

PRODUCTION OF EAU DE COLOGNE

TITLE
EXPERIMENT NO. 6

 CHE 326 INDUSTRIAL CHEMISTRY

Date started: February 4,2016 Group no. 2
Date finished: February 11, 2017 Members:
1. Bartolome, Kristine Josami
2. Buhawe, Shiela
3. Cioco, Myla Grace
4. Padillo, Mae Nielyn
5. Sarong, Kuo

I hereby attest that this report is true and correct and that I am one of those who participated in
this laboratory project.

MAE NIELYN C. PADILLO

CHE 3-V03
I. TITLE: Production of Eau de Cologne
II. OBJECTIVES:
General:
To learn how to produce Eau de Cologne

Specific:
1. To produce Eau de Cologne by mixing fragrance oils with deodorized ethyl
alcohol.
2. To distinguish fragrance oils from essential oils.
3. To demonstrate the value of scents and fragrances as potential source of
income for chemical engineers.

III. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT:

For 100 mL of Eau de Cologne

Fragrance oil of choice, 5 mL
Deodorized Ethyl Alcohol, 74 mL
Distilled water for dilution to 100 mL
Fixative, 1 g (solid)/ 1 mL (liquid)
2-50 ml Cologne bottle (Hard plastic, transparent, Boston type) with spray pump

Equipment:
1-100 ml graduated cylinder 1-25 ml graduated cylinder

1 weighing scale, small 2-250 Erlenmeyer’s Flask with cork

Stirrer 1 watch glass

Hand gloves Hand towels

Rags 500 to 1 liter amber aging bottles with

cover
IV. DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS
A. Summary of the process:
Fragrance oil was measured and pour into the Erlenmeyer’s Flask and was covered.
The fixative was weighed and was dissolved in the fragrance oil, was covered and
was set aside. The deodorized alcohol was measured and was added into the
fragrance oil-fixative mixture. It was mixed thoroughly. Afterwards, it was placed
in the aging bottle and kept in a cool, dark, dry place for one week or three days in
the refrigerator. After aging, the contents was transferred to the cologne bottles. The
cologne is now ready for use.

B. Flowchart:

Measuring the fragrance oil

and pour into the Erlenmeyer’s Flask. Cover the
flask.

The fixative was being weighed and was dissolve

in the fragrance oil.

Measure the deodorized ethyl alcohol and add into

the fragrance oil-fixative mixture.

Mix thoroughly and gently. Cover the flask.

The water was being measured and added to the

fragrance-alcohol mixture. Mix thoroughly.

Place in the aging bottle and keep in a cool,

dark, and dry place for one week of three days in
a refrigerator.

After aging, transfer the contents to the cologne

bottles.

Cologne is ready to use.

V. THEORETICAL BACKGROUND

The base of any perfume you can buy in the shops will be the 'perfume essence', this is what
actually makes the smell. This is a combination of essential oils (cedar wood, lime, sandalwood
etc), absolutes (jasmine, rose, neroli), animal extracts (musk, ambergris) and synthetic fragrance
(this could be nearly anything).

This base perfume essence would actually not be that attractive by itself and in some cases
would be actually unpleasant. It is too concentrated, so it needs to be diluted and this is done
with alcohol and water.

Fragrances come in many forms and have many different names but generally the main four
categories are as follows:

Perfume: The perfume you see in the store is not the pure perfume essence and has been diluted.
However it is the most concentrated of all the fragrance options and it is the most expensive for
this reason. It tends to be slightly oilier and will typically contain 15-40% pure perfume extract.
It has a slightly thicker, oilier consistency. It tends to be sold with 'stopper bottles' and not
sprays. It is too strong to spray all over (and too expensive).

The percentage of pure perfume extract is not necessarily an indicator of the quality of perfume
though. As mentioned there are many essential oils that you wouldn't want to smell like in small
doses (spikenard comes to mind). Real musk and ambergris are expensive and not pleasant in
their pure form, so whereas a single drop can dramatically increase the price of a perfume, but
you wouldn't want more than that single drop, which would be sublime.

Eau de Perfume/(Parfum): This uses the same perfume essence but less of it and more alcohol
and water. This means the smell is a bit lighter and usually doesn't last quite as long, but as it is a
bit lighter, many find this preferable. It is of course cheaper. Typically there will be 10-20%
perfume essence in Eau de Perfume. This perfume might be sold in normal bottles or sprays, but
if a spray is used, it shouldn't be just doused all over.

Eau de Toilette: This is lighter still and usually sold in spray bottles. The lightness of it makes it
more suitable to spray more liberally, the high alcohol content means it will not last very long.
Generally this version is the most advisable to use day to day as it is less intense and even if you
do use too much it will lighten up fairly quickly. Typically there will be 4-15% pure perfume
essence.
 Eau de Cologne: Cologne is an abbreviation of 'eau de Cologne' and is the French word for the
city of Köln where a particular scent was first made hence it was a water from Cologne. There
are specific blends of fragrances that fall in this particular category of 'eau de cologne', they are
very light, fresh and fruity and contain the essential oils, lemon, bergamot, orange and also the
absolute neroli. They may also contain the essential oils lavender and rosemary.

These days though, eau de cologne or cologne is also used to determine the most diluted version
of the perfume. Typically 2-5%. These are rarely used in expensive perfumes, but tend to be
more 'splash' kind of perfumes or fragrances for younger people.

Genuine essential oils are pure distillations of a flowers, herbs, roots, or resins that have not been cut
with any kind of carrier oil. These oils are often expensive, and they are prized for their potent
fragrances as well as their medicinal benefits. Plants and the essential oils derived from them contain
allelochemicals-chemicals that have affects on the human body. Sometimes these effects are good
and sometimes they are bad depending on the plant matter used. This is why it is particularly
important to familiarize yourself with the herbs and oils that you use. Those new to the art should
take the time to use additional resources, and speak with their doctor before using any herbal
preparation that they are not familiar with. Some of the prized effects of certain essential oils are:
skin and hair softening, skin moisturizing, rash / eczema / psoriasis relief, youthful looking
rejuvenation, anxiety dissipation, tension relief, stress relief, pain relief, migraine relief, and
enhancement of overall feeling of well being.

Essential oils have drawbacks as well as benefits. Many essential oils are incredibly expensive - an
example of this is Rose Otto Essential oil. It is said that it takes a thousand Rose petals to make a
mere drop of this oil. A fluid ounce costs, on average, $200 dollars. The pure scent of the oil is
heavenly, and a small amount of the oil will go a long way. However, the expense is something that
few can afford to indulge on a regular basis. This reason alone is often enough for many people to
choose fragrance oils which are much less expensive.

Another drawback of some essential oils is that both their quality and scent varies depending on the
crop. Essential oils can also vary by region due to variations in the plant matter used, conditions
grown in, etc. This makes it difficult for craft makers to keep their finished products consistent. For
people simply making items for personal use this is not usually significant unless the person is very
particular about their fragrances, but for crafters making items for sale this can pose a very large
problem. Many crafters opt for fragrance oils instead to keep their finished product consistent.
 Fragrance Family
Traditional

The traditional classification which emerged around 1900 comprised the following categories:

 Single Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by a scent from one particular flower; in French called
a soliflore.

 Floral Bouquet: Containing the combination of several flowers in a scent.

 Ambery: A large fragrance class featuring the scents of vanilla and animal scents together with
flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins.

 Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of sandalwood and cedar.
Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes.

 Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents of honey, tobacco, wood and wood tars in
its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather.

 Chypre: Meaning cyprus in French, this includes fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of
bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. This family of fragrances is named after a perfume by
Francois Coty. Pronounced: sheep-ra

 Fougère: Meaning fern in French, built on a base of lavedner, coumarin, and oakmoss. Many men's
fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and
woody scent. Pronounced: foozh-air

Modern

Since 1945, due to great advances in the technology of perfume creation such as compound
design and synthesis as well as the natural development of styles and tastes; new categories have
emerged to describe modern scents:

 Bright Floral: combining the traditional Single Floral and Floral Bouquet categories.

 Green: a lighter and more modern interpretation of the Chypre type.

 Oceanic/Ozone: the newest category in perfume history, appearing in 1991. A very clean, modern
smell leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes.

 Citrus or Fruity: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de
colognes due to the low tenacity of citrus scents. Development of newer fragrance compounds has
allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances.

 Gourmand: scents with "edible" or "dessert"-like qualities. These often contain notes like vanilla and
tonka bean, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors.
Women

Chypre – Based on a woody, mossy, floral accord, which can include leathery or fruity notes as
well. Chypre perfumes have a rich and lingering scent. Chypre by Coty enjoyed such success in
1917 that “chypre” is now a generic name for a whole category of classic perfumes. The
compositions are based on oakmoss, ciste-labdanun, patchouli and bergamot accords. The richness
of chypre notes mixes wonderfully with fruity or floral notes. This family is made up of
distinguished, instantly recognizable fragrances.
Subgroups under this family are Floral and Fruity:
Floral – floral notes such as lily of the valley, rose or jasmine are added to the chypre structure.
Examples include: Badgley Mischka, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Givenchy Amariage Mariage,
Chanel Chance and Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious
Fruity – The chypre accord is enriched and embellished with fruity notes such as peach, mirabelle
plum and exotic fruit. Examples include: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, Guerlain Mitsouko, and Dior
Miss Dior Cherie.
Citrus – Each perfume in this family is primarily composed of citrus scents such as bergamot,
lemon, orange, tangerine and grapefruit, to which other orange-tree elements (orange blossoms, petit
grain or neroli oil) have been added. Floral or even chypre accords are sometimes present as well.
These perfumes are characterized by their freshness and lightness including the first “Eaux de
Cologne”.

The one subgroup under this family is Aromatic.

Aromatic – The citrus accord is enhanced by the addition of aromatic notes, such as thyme,
rosemary, tarragon or mint. Examples include: Calvin Klein CK One, Rochas Eau de Rochas, and
Lancome O de Lancome.
Floral – This family is composed of a large variety of creations ranging from sumptuous bouquet
arrangements to “soli flora’ compositions. Perfumers can let their creativity run wild, enriching
florals with green, aldehydic, fruity or spicy hints. With its natural scent, the floral note is one of the
most widely used in women’s perfumes.

Subgroups under this family are :

Aldehyde – Animal, powdery or slightly woody notes often enhance the floral bouquet. The top
note is a marriage of aldehydes and hesperidia. This sub-family came into existence with the
creation of Chanel No. 5, the first floral-aldehydic perfume with an unusually high amount of
aldehydes. Examples include: Chanel No. 5 and Estee Lauder White Linen.
Aquatic – A traditional floral bouquet is enhanced with several marine notes during the evaporation
process. Examples include: Aramis New West for Her, Davidoff Cool Water Woman, Issey Miyake
L’Eau d’Issey for Women, Davidoff Cool Water Game Woman, and Escada Into the Blue.

Carnation – “The poet’s flower” is also found in perfumery and plays a part in the development of
rich and harmonious fragrances. Examples include: Calvin Klein Eternity for Women, Nina Ricci
L’Air du Temps and Lancome Miracle.
Green – Green notes can add a sharper freshness to the floral bouquet. Galbanum is a typical
ingredient in this type of perfume as well as combinations that evoke freshly-cut grass. Examples
include: Chanel No. 19, Ralph Lauren Lauren, and Estee Lauder Beautiful.
Fruity – Since 1995, new fruity notes have blossomed in the world of perfumery. The floral body is
easily identifiable, and the fruity notes are obvious. Among these are apricot, raspberry, lychee and
apple. Examples include: Armani Acqua di Gio, Cacharel Amor Amor, Carolina Herrera 212,
Clinique Happy, Armani Emporio Remix for Her, Cacharel Noa Perle, Cartier Delices, Dior
J’Adore, Escada Pacific Paradise, Juicy Couture, Vera Wang Princess, Guerlain Insolence, and Nina
Ricci Nina.
Jasmine – Also know as “The Flower”, jasmine enhances the floral top notes. It helps give perfume
a complex and refined structure. Examples include: Burberry London, Ferragamo F, Dior Pure
Poison and Jean Patou Joy.
Muguet – A floral bouquet whose keynote is lily of the valley, a timeless white flower which gives
perfume a fresh note of springtime. Examples include: Cacharel Anais Anais and Estee Lauder
Pleasures for Women.
Orange Tuberose – Introduced in 1948 with Fracas de Piguet, this sub-family has kept all of its
appeal. It includes original scents of a unique sensuality. Examples include: Armani Code for Her
and Givenchy Amarige.
Rose Violet – The key floral accord of this sub-family is rose and violet. This widely used flower
duet was launched by Paris, the famous Yves Saint Laurent perfume. Examples include: Lancome
Tresor and Yves Saint Laurent Paris.
Woody Musk – Always based on a floral accord, this family includes fragrances with an additional
woody and/or musky note, which gives a richer, more contemporary structure than that of a
traditional floral perfume. Examples include: Aramis Always for Her, Calvin Klein CK Be, Jette
Joop Jette, Lanvin Rumeur, Bulgari Blv, Donna Karan Gold, Kenzo Kenzo Amour, Lucky Brand
Number 6 for Women, Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely and Stella McCartney Stella in Two Peony.
Oriental – Also known as “amber” fragrances – stand out because of their unique blend of warmth
and sensuality. They draw their richness from heady substances like musk, vanilla and precious
woods, often associated with exotic floral and spicy scents.
Subgroups under this family are: Floral, Spicy, Vanilla and Woody.
Floral – Traditional Oriental base composed of sweet, powdery element, accompanies by an exotic
floral note such as tiare flower or “spicy” flowers such as carnation. Examples include: Britney
Spears In Control Curious, Dolce & Gabbana The One, Gaultier Jean-Paul Gaultier, Guerlain
L’Heure Bleue, Calvin Klein Euphoria, Donna Karan Cashmere Mist, Givenchy Ange ou Demon,
Guerlain L’Instant de Guerlain, Tom Ford Black Orchid, Van Cleef & Arpels First Love, Kenzo
Flower by Kenzo, and Stella McCartney Stella In Two Amber.
Spicy – Spices such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg join the Oriental accord to enhance the
originality and character of these unmistakable perfumes. Examples include: Chanel Coco, Sonia
Rykiel Belle en Rykiel, Estee Lauder Youth Dew and Yves Saint Laurent Opium.
Vanilla – Vanilla and classical amber notes accentuate the original Oriental aroma. Examples
include: Armani Emporio She, Chanel Allure, Guerlain Shalimar, Lolita Lempicka “L”, Ralph
Lauren Ralph Hot, Calvin Klein Obsession, Dior Hypnotic Poison, Lancome Miracle Forever, and
Thierry Mugler Angel.
Woody – Warm and opulent notes like amber and sandalwood, or dry notes like cedar are added to
the Oriental accord to further accentuate it. Examples include: Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Rouge,
Lancome Hypnose, Thierry Mugler Alien, Guerlain Samsar and Molinard Habanita.

Men
Aromatic – Aromatic notes are mainly composed of sage, rosemary, thyme and lavender usually
complemented with citrus and spicy notes. These compositions’ manly character makes them an all-
time favorite in men’s perfumery.
Subgroups under this family are Aquatic, Fougere, Fresh and Rustic.
Aquatic – The compositions of this subfamily brighten up the basic aromatic accord with an ocean
note. This modern family boasts many recent creations. Examples include: Armani Acqua Di Gio
for Men, Davidoff Cool Water Game, Bulgari AQVA Pour Homme and Kenzo for Men.
Fougere – Timeless aromatic notes blend with a traditional fougere accord characterized by
lavender, woody, coumarin, geranium and oak moss notes. Examples include: Armani Emporio
Remix for Him, Dolce & Gabbana Classique, Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir, Loewe Escenia Loewe,
Azzaro Pour Homme, Faberge Brut Original, Hugo Boss BOSS Selection, and Lucky Brand 6 for
Men.
Fresh – Fresh notes such as white flowers or citrus notes are added to an aromatic bouquet
characterized by an underlying woody note. Examples include: Calvin Klein Eternity for Men,
Davidoff Cool Water, Liz Claiborne Curve for Men, Clinique Happy for Men, Estee Lauder
Pleasures for Men, Tommy Hilfiger T.
Rustic – The dominant aromatic accord is enhanced by the addition of rustic notes carrying scents of
the countryside such as new-mown hay or grass. Examples include: Aramis New West for Men,
Hugo Boss Hugo, Ralph Lauren Polo Sport, Calvin Klein Escape for Men and Kenneth Cole
Reaction.
Citrus – This family includes all perfumes mainly composed of citrus notes such as bergamot,
lemon, orange, tangerine and grapefruit. These fragrances are characterized by their freshness and
lightness. The first Eaux de Cologne belong to this category.
VI. DATA AND OBSERVATIONS
Observations:
Date: February 4, 2017

Scent characteristics: Color and

appearance:

Date started: February 4, 2017 Moon Sparkle scent white

Date, one week February 11, 2017 Moon Sparkle scent white
after:
Date of bottling:

Total volume of
EDC produced,
(YIELD):

Material Balance:

Item Percent Volume / Unit cost Total cost

weight
Fragrance oil 5% 30 ml Ᵽ 210.00/30 ml Ᵽ 210.00

DEA 74% 444 ml Ᵽ 175.00/L Ᵽ 77.7

Fixative 1% 6 ml Ᵽ 120.00/30 ml Ᵽ 24.00

Distilled water, 20% 120 ml Ᵽ30.00/1 L Ᵽ 3.60

Q.S.
TOTAL Yield 600 ml Ᵽ 315.90

Bottle, pcs Ᵽ 30.00//pc Ᵽ 30.00//pc

Label, pcs Ᵽ 52.65

Ᵽ 52.65/100 ml

Sample computations:
Fragrance oil: Distilled water:
Ᵽ 210.00 Ᵽ 30.00
30 𝑚𝑙 𝑥 = Ᵽ 210.00 120 𝑚𝑙 𝑥 = Ᵽ 3.60
30 𝑚𝑙 1000 𝑚𝑙

Fixative: Ethyl alcohol:

Ᵽ 175.00
Ᵽ 120.00 444 𝑚𝑙 𝑥 = Ᵽ 7.77
6 𝑚𝑙 𝑥 = Ᵽ 24.00 1000 𝑚𝑙
30 𝑚𝑙
VII. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS
Eau de Perfume/(Parfum): This uses the same perfume essence but less of it and more
alcohol and water. This means the smell is a bit lighter and usually doesn't last quite as long,
but as it is a bit lighter, many find this preferable. It is of course cheaper. Typically there will
be 10-20% perfume essence in Eau de Perfume. This perfume might be sold in normal bottles
or sprays, but if a spray is used, it shouldn't be just doused all over.

Eau de Toilette: This is lighter still and usually sold in spray bottles. The lightness of it
makes it more suitable to spray more liberally, the high alcohol content means it will not last
very long. Generally this version is the most advisable to use day to day as it is less intense
and even if you do use too much it will lighten up fairly quickly. Typically there will be 4-
15% pure perfume essence.

Eau de Cologne: Cologne is an abbreviation of 'eau de Cologne' and is the French word for
the city of Köln where a particular scent was first made hence it was a water from Cologne.
There are specific blends of fragrances that fall in this particular category of 'eau de cologne',
they are very light, fresh and fruity and contain the essential oils, lemon, bergamot, orange
and also the absolute neroli. They may also contain the essential oils lavender and rosemary.

These days though, eau de cologne or cologne is also used to determine the most diluted
version of the perfume. Typically 2-5%. These are rarely used in expensive perfumes, but
tend to be more 'splash' kind of perfumes or fragrances for younger people.

VIII. SUGGESTIONS FOR FURTHER WORK:

The base of any perfume you can buy in the shops will be the 'perfume essence', this is what
actually makes the smell. This is a combination of essential oils (cedar wood, lime,
sandalwood etc), absolutes (jasmine, rose, neroli), animal extracts (musk, ambergris) and
synthetic fragrance (this could be nearly anything).

This base perfume essence would actually not be that attractive by itself and in some cases
would be actually unpleasant. It is too concentrated, so it needs to be diluted and this is done
with alcohol and water.

Fragrances come in many forms and have many different names but generally the main four
categories are as follows:

Perfume: The perfume you see in the store is not the pure perfume essence and has been
 diluted. However it is the most concentrated of all the fragrance options and it is the most
expensive for this reason. It tends to be slightly oilier and will typically contain 15-40% pure
perfume extract. It has a slightly thicker, oilier consistency. It tends to be sold with 'stopper
bottles' and not sprays. It is too strong to spray all over (and too expensive).

The percentage of pure perfume extract is not necessarily an indicator of the quality of
perfume though. As mentioned there are many essential oils that you wouldn't want to smell
like in small doses (spikenard comes to mind). Real musk and ambergris are expensive and
not pleasant in their pure form, so whereas a single drop can dramatically increase the price
of a perfume, but you wouldn't want more than that single drop, which would be sublime.

IX. REFERENCES:

https://www.quora.com/Fragrances-What-is-the-difference-between-perfume-eau-de-

toilette-and-cologne

http://www.herbco.com/t-essential-and-fragrance-oil.aspx

http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924464

http://theperfumedcourt.com/fragrance_families.aspx

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fixative