KASHIDA

Meaning

The name ‘Kashida’ has been derived from Persian and means free-
flowing cursive writing.
 Origin and History

• According to a historian from Srinagar, Dr. Abdul Ahad ,weaving in

Kashmir was known as early as 3rd century BC.
• It was flourished by Sultan Zain Ul Abidin during 15th century who
identified selected and brought the most talented craftsmen and
weavers from Persia to Kashmir.
• Thus Kashida though born in the north most state of India has its
roots in Persian craftsmenship.
 Types of stitches

• Zalakdozo : It is a chain stitch done with hook in long and

flowing designs.
• Vata – Chikan : Buttonhole stitch used only in thick fillings
seen in landscapes,garden and crowded scene.
• Doria : Open work done on all type of fabrics.
• Talaibar : Gold work done on brocades and silks.
• Jaal : All over embroidery designs are worked in trellis
pattern.
• Amli : Delicate filling in stitches in multi coloured threads in
Kari shawls.
Types of stitches - Examples

Satin Stitch Stem Stitch Chain Stitch

Darning Herringbone
Stitch Stitch
 Motifs

• Nature is the biggest influence. The chinar leaf is the motif

most abundantly used along with the Cyprus tree.
• Bird : Parrot, wood pecker, canary, magpie and kingfisher.
• Floral : Iris, lotus, lily, tulip and saffron flower.
• Fruit : Grapes, plums, cherries, almonds and apple
blossoms.
• Kalka or Badami Buta : Cone shaped mango motif
Motifs - Examples
 Embroidery threads

• Embroidery thread employed earlier was fine quality

woolen yarn.
• Gradually woolen yarns were replaced by rich & lustrous
silk threads.
• The bright, gorgeous inexpensive art silk (rayon) thread
has entered the industry by replacing the expensive silk
threads.
• Cotton threads of bright colours with good colour fastness
are also used abundantly.
 Colors

The embroidery is comprised of wide spectrum of colors of

light and dark shades such as
• White (Sufed)
• Green (Zingari)
• Purple (Uda)
• Blue (Ferozi)
• Black (Mushki)
• Crimson (Gulnar)
• Scarlet (Kirmiz)
 Fabrics

Different types of fabrics are used for Kashida of Kashmir.

The most commonly used fabrics are
• Silk
• Cotton
• Wool
Types of Woven Fabrics
• Shawls:
• Pashmina Shawl: these are superior quality shawls. They are made from wool of the
• Capra Hercus, a species of wild Asian mountain goat. So, that the name given.
• Do Shawl/ Double Shawl: these are solids in pairs. Two identical shawls were stitched
• together so that when draped over shoulders wrong sides were not visible. Do Rookha:
Double side work in which there is no right & wrong side. Simple patterns
• were reproduced on both side, but sometimes with different colours.
• Kasaba Shawls: Square in shape and produce on account of European demand. They
• are generally twill weave/ damask in plain work.
• Jamewar Shawl: Woven in wool and some cotton. The floral designs and brocaded
• parts are generally in silk.
• Refoogari: (Darning): It is worked with the same type of material as that of the base so
• that interweaving produces a fine texture in the fabric.
• 4.1.7 Embroidery on shawls:
• The embroidery on shawl is done at different parts like border, corner, centre,
• allover scattered. They are:
• · Hashia: Border design, which runs all along the length of the shawl on either
• side.
• · Phala: It is done on both the ends of the article, popularly known as Pallu.
• · Tanjjir or Zanjir: Border with chain stitch running either above or below the
• Phala.
• · Kunj Butta: Cluster of flowers in the corner.
• · Butta: Generic name for the floral design.
• · Appliqué: Another variety of Kashmir embroidery, which is very unique done
• on carpets, shawls & woolen blankets.
• · Tapestry work: It is done with a blunt tapestry needle, were the material is
• stitched on a wooden frame with the tracing kept along its side.
• · Zalakdozi: Resembles crochet. Various articles are prepared by hook embroidery
• and one of them is Namda, a felt carpet.
• Different types of fabrics are used for Kashida of Kashmir. The
mostcommonly used fabrics are-SilkCottonWoolLike the fabrics,
different types of threads are used in Kashida of Kashmir.The most
commonly used threads are-WoolSilkCottonArt silk,i.e, yarns of
synthetic fabrics.
• The most commonly used colors for Kashmir shawls are as
followsalongwith the terms used for them in local language-
White[sufed]Green[zingari]Purple[Uda]Blue[Ferozi]Black[Mushki]Crim
son[Gulnar]Scarlet[Kirmiz
• The outstanding feature of this embroidery is the fact that it is made
withsingle threads, resulting in a flat, formalized appearance to the
design.The stitches used in Kashida of Kashmir are very simple.
• The outstanding feature of this embroidery is the fact that it is made
withsingle threads, resulting in a flat, formalized appearance to the
design.The stitches used in Kashida of Kashmir are very simple.
• They are-1-The satin stitch-
• used to cover large surfaces without pulling or puckering the cloth in
any way.
• 2-The stem stitch-
• used only on boundary of the motif.
• 3-The chain stitch-
• used only on inferior pieces and never on anexpensive piece of work.
• 4-The darning stitch5-The herring bone.
Colours used:
• The embroidery is comprised of wide spectrum of
colours of light and dark shades, such ass crimson red,
scarlet red, blue, yellow, green, purple, black & brown.
Earlier the yarns were locally dyed with indigenous
natural colours. But nowadays all the threads used in
the industry are invariably mill dyed with synthetic dye
staff.
Types of Woven Fabrics:
• Shawls:
• Pashmina Shawl: these are superior quality shawls. They are made from wool
of the Capra Hercus, a species of wild Asian mountain goat. So, that the name
given.
• Do Shawl/ Double Shawl: these are solids in pairs. Two identical shawls were
stitched together so that when draped over shoulders wrong sides were not
visible.
• Do Rookha: Double side work in which there is no right & wrong side. Simple
patterns were reproduced on both side, but sometimes with different colours.
Kasaba Shawls: Square in shape and produce on account of European demand.
They are generally twill weave/ damask in plain work. Jamewar Shawl: Woven
in wool and some cotton. The floral designs and brocaded parts are generally
in silk. Refoogari: (Darning): It is worked with the same type of material as that
of the base so that interweaving produces a fine texture in the fabric.
Embroidery on shawls:
• The embroidery on shawl is done at different parts like border, corner, centre,
allover scattered. They are:
• Hashia: Border design, which runs all along the length of the shawl on either side.
• Phala: It is done on both the ends of the article, popularly known as Pallu.
• Tanjjir or Zanjir: Border with chain stitch running either above or below the Phala.
• Kunj Butta: Cluster of flowers in the corner.
• Butta: Generic name for the floral design.
• Appliqué: Another variety of Kashmir embroidery, which is very unique done on
carpets, shawls & woolen blankets.
• Tapestry work: It is done with a blunt tapestry needle, were the material is
stitched on a wooden frame with the tracing kept along its side.
• Zalakdozi: Resembles crochet. Various articles are prepared by hook embroidery
and one of them is Namda, a felt carpet.
• Kashmiri or Kashida (Kashmir)[edit]
• Kashmiri embroidery(also Kashida) is used for phirans (woollen kurtas) and namdahs (woollen rugs)as well as stoles. It draws inspiration from nature. Birds, blossoms
and flowers, creepers, chinar leaves, ghobi, mangoes, lotus, and trees are the most common themes. The entire pattern is made with one or two embroidery stitches,
and mainly chain stitch on a base of silk, wool and cotton: the colour is usually white, off-white or cream but nowadays one can find stoles and salwar-kameez sets in
many other colours such as brown, deep blue, sky blue, maroon and rani pink. Kashida is primarily done on canvas with crystal threads, but Kashida also employs
pashmina and leather threads. Apart from clothes, it's found on home furnishings like bed spreads, sofa and floor cushions, and pillow covers.
• The base cloth, whether wool or cotton, is generally white or cream or a similar shade. Pastel colors are also often used. The craftsmen use shades that blend with the
background. Thread colors are inspired by local flowers. Only one or two stitches are employed on one fabric.
• Kashmiri embroidery is known for the skilled execution of a single stitch, which is often called the Kashmiri stitch and which may comprise the chain stitch, the satin
stitch, the slanted darn stitch, the stem stitch, and the herringbone stich. Sometimes, the doori (knot) stitches are used but not more than one or two at a time.
• Sozni embroidery (dorukha) is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides of the shawl with each side having a different color. Consequently, there is no
wrong side. This is done by a fine needle and generally a single or at the most double thread is used.
• 'Papier maché' embroidery. Here flowers and leaves are worked in the satin stitch and employ the bright colors that are found in papier maché objects. Each motif is then
outlined in black. This design is employed either in broad panels on both sides of a shawl or on the entire surface of a stole. The final effect of this type of embroidery
looks translucent and has a “stained-glass work” look.
• Aari (hook) embroidery; motifs include the well-known flower design finely worked in concentric rings with the chain stitch. The Aari is a hook needle which gives an even
and machine like finish of embroidery. The cloth is firmly set of a wooden frame & the aari is maneuvered over the pre-drawn pattern or design. Thoridaar is yet another
variation of the aari work. It is generally the first step to learning the art of hook embroidery.
• Shaaldaar and Chinar-kaam are other popular forms
• Kashida is inspired by nature. The designs and colour combinations of motifs and patterns showcase the flora and fauna of Kashmir.
• The motifs depict the trees, chinar- maple leaves, lotus, creepers & twigs, flowers, blossoms, badaam (almond), other fruits and birds.
• Samovar (the antique Kashimiri tea-pot) is a very typical & popular design used in Kashmiri embroidery. The Samovar patter is then filled up with intricate flowers and
leaves and twigs.
• “Kashir-Jaal” implies fine network of embroidery, particularly on the neckline and sleeves of a dress material. “Naala Jaal” implies embroidery particularly on the neckline
and chest/yoke, because “Naala” means neck in the Koshur dialect of Kashmiri language.
• “Jaama” A very dense embroidery covering the whole base fabric with a thick spread of vine/creepers & flowers, badaam and heart shapes, A variation of this form is
“Neem-Jaama”, where neem means demi or half, because the embroidery is less dense, allowing a view of the fabric underneath.
• “Jaal”. It consists of “bel-buti“: a fine and sparse net of vine/creepers & flowers. Variation of this form is “Neem-Jaal”, where again the work is less dense.
• Kashmir is a melting pot of art and culture and has influenced the world of fashion since the Mughal era. Kashida embroidery is an intricate
craft that was patronized by the royals and was initiated by the local residents of Srinagar. If one sees kashida work in detail, nature has
been one of the biggest influences. The hints of gorgeous flowers and intricate impressions of petals and creepers give Kashida a wholesome
look.
• What is Kashida? Kashida work consists of detailed needlework and primarily involves two styles of embroidery stitching. Single-stitch style
is commonly considered to be classic kashida work. Besides that there are many other types of stitching involved such as satin stitch, chain
stitch or knot stitch. There are many other styles as well, which make kashida a more intricate, time-consuming, yet luxurious
embroidery.These include sozi work and andari work which involve traditional motifs such as animals, birds, flowers and fruits in the threads
of gold, silver and metal. We can see extensive kashida work on shawls, suits and saris, which have motifs in multi-coloured strings.
• Kashida and Contemporary Fashion: Indian fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who is known for reviving a number of Indian
embroideries, often plays with kashida in his collections. He has carved a niche for himself by bridging the gap between Indian crafts and
Western silhouettes by making palazzos, jackets, saris and sherwanis by using kashida work over khadi and net. He has even used gold
kashida work over velvet.
• 
• Another major Indian designer who plays with kashida is the Kashmir-born Rohit Bal. Last year at Indian Bridal Week, he presented a
spectacular collection called ‘Mulmul Masquerade’, which was a gorgeous tribute to kashida work. The collection consisted of saris in ebony
and ivory, lehengas and gowns loaded with beautiful kashida work in gold thread over red and navy blue velvet. Muslin blended with velvet
provided a feel of luxury. International brands such as Etro and Blumarine have also created beautiful outfits using Kashimiri kashida work. 
• How to Wear Kashida: As kashida is primarily very colourful, we suggest you play with separates. In summer, go for a kashida
embroidered tunic or a kurti over white linen pants or regular denims. Kashida prints are also trending, so if you do not want to sport
anything heavy yet want to look regal, try kashida printed saris and shawls. Winter is a very appropriate season to flaunt your kashida-
embroidered outfits. One needs to be careful when accessorizing with kashida outfits. Play with heavy pendant silver jewellery and
neckpieces to complement the look of this embroidery. Pearls can also be a great option to enhance the beauty of the embroidery by
maintaining the ethnicity of the entire look.
• Kashida: Iconic to the region, Kashida is known
commonly as Kashmiri embroidery. It is defined by a
single or a maximum double stitch on a fibre and is
usually done on a pastel coloured fabric. The motifs of
the same were always inspired by the nature and
flowers and buds were used to adorn the kurtas and
pherans. Today, the Kashida is a ramp favourite. The
embroidery has transgressed beyond the pherans and is
often created on stunning shirts, jackets and kaftans;
designers like Sabyasachi and Manish Malhotra have
particularly favoured Kashida.
• Kashmiri embroidery is well known for the beauty of its colour, texture, design and technique. Probably, the best-known Indian
embroidery is the 'Kashida of Kashmir'. This embroidery is revealed in shawls and in cottage industry done by the members of
families in Srinagar. Kashmiri embroidery is practiced by men and it is essentially a commercial craft.
• According to Ramala S. Dongekery, the shawl industry in Kashmir was introduced by Zain-ul-Abedin. Akbar was also responsible for
introducing a new type of shawl - the Dowshala meaning “Twin shawl”. In this two similar shawls were woven together, then sewn
back to back. So the under surface of the shawls were not visible. Khwaja Yusuf during his stay in Kashmir got the idea of producing
shawls with help of 'Rafoogar'. These were later known as “Amli Shawls”. Amli shawls were plain-woven shawls, which were
ornamented with needle wholly. The plain- woven cloth of the amli was placed smooth and flat and then rubbed with a piece of
polished agate till it becomes perfectly even.The design is drawn on paper and with needles lines are pricked through. The charcoal
powder is rubbed on the perforated holes to transfer the design on the fabric. The stitch used was the darning stitch, the thread
being made to pick up the loops of the warp thread. The technique has made the embroidery look as prepared on the loom.
• The motifs were mainly taken from nature; animal and human figures were not seen in this embroidery. Bird motifs were seen on
the shawls (like parrot, woodpeckers and kingfishers). Floral motifs like lily, lotus, iris, saffron flower and tulips were mostly seen on
the shawls. Other designs like grapes, cherries, almonds and The stitches used were simple, the chief being satin stitch, stem stitch
and chain stitch. Occasionally, the darning and herringbone are used. Crewel embroidery is done with the use of hook. Kashida is
general term for Kashmir embroidery, which includes other stitches as Zalakdo (chain stitch), Vatachik (Buttonhole stitch), Talibar
(Gold work). One outstanding feature of the embroidery is the fact that it is made with a single thread giving a flat, formalized
appearance to the design. The satin stitch has been adopted to cover larger surface without pulling the cloth. It has become the
variation of long and short stitch. Chain is used only in inferior places and never on expensive piece of work. The Indian customer
sets a great store by embroidery which displays the same fineness on both sides so as to make the wrong side distinguishable from
right and Kashmiri workman has made himself adapt at this art.

This embroidery is done on silk, cotton and wool fabrics. Colourful fabrics like white (sufed), green (zingari), purple (uder), blue
(ferozi), yellow (zard) and black (mushki). The threads used were wool, cotton and silk.apples were their favourites. The chinar leaf
is considered as an important motif.
• Thus, this embroidery enhanced the beauty of Kashmiri
shawls, silk sarees, dress materials, cushion covers, bed
covers, purses, veils and articles of personal and daily
use. There is no way one can compare the Kashmiri
embroidery with any thing else.
• Introduction:
• Kashmiri embroidery is extraordinary for the excellence of its color, surface, configuration and method. Likely, the
best-known Indian embroidery is the ‘Kashida of Kashmir’. This embroidery is uncovered in shawls and in cabin
industry done by the parts of families in Srinagar. Known to be a standout amongst the most antiquated and
customary kind of inherent workmanship, Kashida Embroidery, likewise spelled as Kasida characterizes its social
substance through the medium of dot and crochet, which has picked up greatest prominence, notoriety and
recognition in the valley of Jammu and Kashmir. Motifs like feathered creatures, leaves, trees and a lot of such
characteristic themes are recreated in this weaving with multi hued strings and dabs woven into the fabrics like
shawls, suits and saris.
• Origin and History:
• Kashmir carved its excellent embodiment of Kashida embroidery into the design world way back in the Mughal period
which was disparaged by the heads and the royals of that time. However in the event that we go further up along the
ways of recorded chronicles of design, it can be discovered that this art of embroidery was additionally innovatively
launched by the occupants of Srinagar. Intrinsic embroidery and quality was webbed into the finest maze of
inventiveness and development utilizing innovative patterns of colors and examples.
• Style:
• Single line style is the trade-mark style of Kashida Embroidery. Other than there are numerous different stitch style like
satin stitch, herringbone, stem stitch, chain stitch, knot stitch and a lot more which are additionally innovatively
executed.
Current Trends and Usage

1.Revival of Kashida embroidery :

•Bed Spreads, Cushion Covers, Rugs, Shawls, Dress Materials etc.

2.Kashida Embroidery at Fashion Week :

•Rohit Bal - The Mulmul Masquerade
•Manish Malhotra – Gulaala and Giltoor, The Blue Runway
•Ritu Kumar – Tree of Life
•Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla
•Sabyasachi Mukherjee
•Naeem Khan

.
3.Cinematic Influence :
• Rockstar
• Kashmir Ki Kali
• Fitoor

4.Global Recognition :
• Michelle Obama
• Sonam Kapoor
• Jemima Khan
• Blumarine & Etro for Kashmiri embroidery
Conclusion