Handyman PDF

Tom’s Complete Do It Yourself Handyman Guide
Tom’s Complete
Do it Yourself
Handyman Guide
By: Tom Joffe
© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 1

Preface
Why I created this book
If you are like any of my customers you too want to know how to do those odd jobs
around the house, from hanging a picture to getting on your roof to fix a slate from a
windy night.
This book has been created with you in mind. It has been written for you to either read
cover to cover or just go straight to what task you need to accomplish.
I come from various backgrounds, my grandfather is a master carpenter, my father is an

electrician, and I have worked in large organizations as a plasterer, painter and decorator,
tiling, roofer, and many many other skills.
For me these tasks are second nature to me, and I have put my skills down on paper step
by step for you.
If you find that there is a task you need to complete that this book does not cover, or you
would like more information let me know and I will give you expert advice on how to
accomplish your task.
For now, let me congratulate you in your first step to taking control of your house.
There are some jobs that a professional must do such as:
Some Electrical work

All Gas work
Some Roofing work
Due to laws, or it is just too hard to do even by the most expert DIYer
Make your House a Home.

Contents
Preface ......................................................................................................................................... 2 
Introduction............................................................................................................................... 4 
Tools ............................................................................................................................................. 6 
Everyday Hand Tools.............................................................................................................. 7 
Safety ......................................................................................................................................... 19 
Repairs ....................................................................................................................................... 22 
Exterior .................................................................................................................................. 22 
Gutters ................................................................................................................................... 35 
Roofs....................................................................................................................................... 37 
Shingles ................................................................................................................................. 38 
Decks ...................................................................................................................................... 42 
Interior....................................................................................................................................... 44 
Doors ...................................................................................................................................... 44 
Windows................................................................................................................................ 47 
Floors...................................................................................................................................... 50 
Walls ....................................................................................................................................... 52 
Wiring / Heating / Plumbing......................................................................................... 54 
Featured Improvements ...................................................................................................... 56 
Interior: Installing Shelves ........................................................................................... 56 
Exterior: Building a Deck ............................................................................................... 61 
Quick Repair and Remodeling Projects ......................................................................... 68 
Replacing a tap washer................................................................................................... 68 
Hooking up a new washing machine ......................................................................... 69 
Hooking up a new dishwasher ..................................................................................... 71 
Remodeling .............................................................................................................................. 74 
Kitchen................................................................................................................................... 74 
Bathrooms ............................................................................................................................ 77 
Water and Electricity do not mix ............................................................................................. 80 
Ladder Safety.............................................................................................................................. 82 
Choosing Ladders....................................................................................................................... 82 
Putting Up Ladders .................................................................................................................... 84 
Using Ladders - Work the Safe Way ....................................................................................... 87 
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) ..................................................................................... 92 
Gas Safety................................................................................................................................. 93 
The Stepladder User's Guide ............................................................................................. 94 
Safety Wear................................................................................................................................. 98 

Introduction
Don’t fear the task, fear what you could accomplish!
Let me set you a scene…
You stumble down the stairs for your morning paper, glance at a typically morbid
headline, and turn back inside, only to find that the old wooden front door won’t shut.
So you sit at the kitchen table reading your daily dose of bad news, you glance out the
back window to see your five-year-old, who’s been playing on the back deck, suddenly
disappear. You open the back door (the lock mechanism sticking hard) only to find a
broken section of rotted deck, your child lost somewhere in the unknown realm of giant
spiders below.
Your reading is further disturbed by the sound of water dripping from your leaky
kitchen faucet/tap. drip…drip…drip--each one is louder than the last.
Does this exaggerated scenario sound familiar? Consider it a form of healthy anxiety.
Calling the necessary army of plumbers, carpenters, and electricians in to help seems
to them daunting and forbidding--almost like inviting invasion. This book is for those of
us who want to help ourselves. I am here to help clear up the mystery that surrounds
building, fixing, and tools--and for anyone you know like them (wink-wink).
Armed with some basic knowledge, anyone can begin making easy repairs. Once
you’ve mastered a hammer, tools like a stud finder will not be far behind?

The key is to acquire knowledge bit-by-bit, which will begin to clear up many
of the mysteries surrounding the shelter you call home.
People are busy. However unless you plan to call a carpenter every time a door or
window goes out of whack, or get the plumber on every leaky faucet/tap, or spend all
your time recruiting handy friends to address the dozens of tiny things that go wrong
each year, your choice is either to live in a partially functioning home (very annoying),
or learn how to repair it.
Going the latter route provides a tremendous sense of satisfaction, and also relaxes the
mind of the weary homeowner. No longer will you tremble in the face of cracked walls,
broken plaster, scuffed floors, rotten decks and even leaky roofs. This knowledge
instills a great deal of confidence, a “can-do” attitude that may well spread into other
areas of your life (raising the hood of a car can actually become a reasonably
comfortable experience, for instance).
Even if you’ve never really been inclined in that direction, with a minimum of study and
effort, you’ll soon be able to take care of the minor boo-boos of
your own house; a wonderful feeling. foothold in the amazing world of tools and
technique, and that is just what this book is intended for: to give you a place on which
to stand, and survey the vast and interesting world of home repair and improvement.

Tools
“You need the proper tools to do the proper job,” as a high-school baseball coach/shop
teacher of mine liked to remark once upon a time. While he definitely did not possess the
requisite set of tools for managing a freshman hardball squad, his unobserved
maxim still holds.
Beginners often try to use tools in all sorts of unorthodox ways: making clamps out of
pliers, using roofing nails in place of lost screws, or even making a folded board from a
game like Monopoly into a carpenter’s square. While these attempts to brave the great
unknown of tool design are admirable, they usually end up causing a great deal of
frustration; can result in unnecessary amounts of sweat, blood, and tears; and
sometimes end in disaster. All handy folk worth their salt engage in a little improvisation
when the need arises, but the smart ones also know that nothing beats having the right
tool for the job. A few bucks at a hardware store can often trim hours off a project.
That being said, you probably won’t need anything beyond a few simple tools for quite
some time. Even as you become an intermediate-level do-it-yourselfer, your
requirements will probably stay minimal. As I stated before, the best way to go is to
buy the tools for each job (excepting any exotic ones, such as the previously mentioned
nail gun or a floor sander) when you need them, and thus build your workshop on the
fly.
In this chapter, we’ll take a look at the basic hand tools everyone will need sooner than
later, then we’ll check out the power tools that will make your life much easier down
the road, and finally we’ll survey the big guys you’ll probably just want to rent or
borrow for
the foreseeable future. And so we enter the wonderful world of tools….
Now this list is by no means a comprehensive list of every tool you will ever use,
it is a starting point to understand what these tools are and what they can do.

Everyday Hand Tools
Included in this group are the essential tools, some of which already have a home in
your closet, basement, or junk drawer. My advice on buying hand tools is to shoot for
the middle. You won’t need expensive, contractor-grade (whatever that means)
equipment. Yet buying cheap, toy-like tools from a dollar store merely means that you’re
going to bend your hammer out of shape while pulling out a nail. Making trips to
the hardware store in the middle of what should be an easy project is no fun.
Besides, you’d like to have tools that will last awhile. It’s comforting to see the same
hammer or set of pliers every time you open up your tool box, for years and years. And
don’t be surprised if you start developing an emotional attachment to those hardy,
unassuming tools that have served you well for years. It happens to even the hardest
cases among us.
One last thing to remember: the real trick is to imagine what kind of tool a certain job
would need, and then find it. Ask yourself questions like “What kind of force needs to
be exerted?” and “What attachments should it have?” and you’re halfway there. Take
on the mindset of a tool designer, not a tool consumer. This imaginative exercise will
not replace trial-and-error and study, but it will give you a glimpse into how real, honest-
o-goodness craftspeople think. Now on to the tools….
Claw Hammer:
A good hammer is a relatively simple thing to find. Select an
8-ounce, claw-type (for pulling nails) hammer to begin with,
and then move onto a more sturdy and efficient 16-ounce
model once you get sick of tapping your nails in instead of
pounding. A must have tool in your tool box, this one has a
rubber coated handle to protect your hands.

Pliers:
Needle-nose pliers have long, skinny jaws that help

you work in tight spaces or with thin material, and often
have wire-cutters attached. (Like all tools, these come
in different sizes and you’ll eventually need one you
don’t have. The best way to go is to have a small and
large size of every tool--like an 8-ounce and 16-ounce
hammer--but if you can’t stomach the idea of buying
two of everything, just get the small size and wait until
ou get annoyed.)
Lineman’s pliers have square, “snub-nose” jaws, and are better suited for gripping
fatter objects. They often have some kind of integrated wire-cutter, too.
Next up are the vise-grip (or locking) pliers. These are of the snub-nose variety, but
have an adjustable knob at the bottom that allows the pliers to grab onto objects of
different sizes without letting go.
Then there are channel-lock (or arc-joint or groove-joint) pliers. These flat-jawed
beauties are adjustable, allowing you to grip objects of greatly varying size. Finally we
have slip-joint (or those-ones-that-aren’t-needle-nose) pliers, a very common type to
find in households. These are merely snub-nose pliers with a joint that allows for two
different settings.

Screwdriver:
There are three basic head types for

screwdrivers: Flat, Phillips, and Square.
Square is a new development, and it is the

best. It takes less energy to sink a square-
driving screw, among other benefits. However,
since Phillips have ruled the market for a generation, and flat-heads are still found here
and there, and since people are afraid of change, the square heads are still a distinct
minority.
Also different lengths, long for those hard to reach areas and stubby for those tight
spaces.
Screwdrivers are the one tool you should absolutely buy in several sizes right from the
get-go. Three sizes of each should do quite nicely (S, M, L, and you’ll also want a
jeweler’s size of each). A nice packaged set of screwdrivers is your best, most
affordable option.
Tape Measure:
The old standby. Here you’ll want a 12-25 foot length
with a locking mechanism that keeps the tape
extended. Don’t go too cheap, you do really get what
you pay for.

WELCOME TO THE NEXT LEVEL
Wrench/Spanner:
A crescent wrench can be very helpful in

removing nuts and bolts. It has an adjustable
head that fits around the fastener to be
unscrewed. The non-adjustable combination
wrenches are usually sold in sets, as their head
openings only fit one size of bolt apiece.
The kit shown is a ratchet set (the closed end) really good idea to get to make your
life so much easier.
Hand Saw:
This is the old solid, wedge-shaped saw,

the one that makes a funny noise when you bend it;
used for cutting woods.
The come in different sizes and tooth size.
I totally recommend to get a toolbox saw which is

about 15” and a normal saw which is about 30”.
Rip saws have straight teeth shaped like chisels and are used for cutting along the
grain of a piece of lumber. Crosscut saws have angled, beveled teeth that allow it
to slice against the grain of the wood. Get a rip saw first, use it for both operations,
and then be prepared to do some sanding.
Held at the handle side laying down provides a true 45 or 90 degree angle for those
picture frame cuts, or a straight line.

Sandpaper:
Paper coated with abrasive minerals of various types,

used for smoothing rough, jagged, or splintered wood.
Sandpaper comes in different grades, with the rougher
grades being used initially, and the finer grades used for
finishing work.
Sanding Block
Use this to protect your hand and it makes sanding a lot
simpler. The paper sits in slits in the block and holds the
paper in place, it stops the sandpaper from sanding your
skin.
Level:
Levels are generally lengths of metal with

enclosed capsules of water. When it’s placed on
a level object, the bubbles in the water line up
with a set of guides. There are many new
variations of this basic tool, including electronic
models that use lasers.
I would recommend in a long level and a small
level for your tool box.

Stud/Pipe/Electric Finder:
Another time-tested tool currently competing with

electronic models, stud finders used to be merely
magnetic pointers in plastic boxes. They were run
along walls to find studs, which are the 2x4 timbers
used to frame most houses. They run up and down
in walls, and are usually spaced about 16 inches
apart. They’re important to find because setting
screws into them to hang things up is much easier and more secure than just drilling into
plaster or drywall. Some tools also incorporate electric cable, water pipe sensors too.
Scraper/Putty Knife:
These look like short-handled metal spatulas and

have sharp, flat blades of different shapes and
sizes for scraping paint (or old inspection stickers
off car windows); smoothing spackle, window putty,
or plaster; removing caulk; and many other jobs.
Carpenter’s Square:
This flat metal ruler bends 90 degrees into a “L’

shape. It’s helpful for framing up lumber, and
doing all kinds of woodworking, especially as a saw
guide.
Held at the opposite side provides a true 45 degree
angle for those picture frame cuts.

Utility Knife:
This is a simple retractable blade with a metal or

plastic sheathing. Good for cutting plastic, wire,
carpeting, and many other things. Don’t scrimp
here; buy the metal-housed kind and they will
last
you far longer than the dollar-store scrapbook
knives.
They also usually have a spare blade holder, buy
spare blades, a sharp blade is very important for
any job.
Hacksaw:
A handsaw consisting of a handle, metal frame,

and blade, used for cutting through metal,
copper, and other hard materials. Comes in two
sizes, large like the one shown and a smaller
one for smaller jobs.
Clamps:
Used to hold materials (such as wood) together for

joining. These quick grips are the best to grip things
quickly.
The metal kind provide a stronger hold.

Everyday Power Tools
Power tools come in a dazzling array of shapes and sizes, from simple, tiny little power
screw drivers to enormous table saws. Don’t be alarmed: there are only a few power
tools your average weekend warrior will ever need more than a couple of times in his or
her life.
Electric Drill:
The drill is one of them. From hanging pictures to

installing shelves to basic woodworking, this is the first
and most essential power tool you’ll buy. With the
proper bits, it can even replace your screwdriver to a
large extent, thus taking a lot of strain off your wrists
and hands. The best kind to get, off the bat, is a
reversible 3/8-inch drill with a nice set of bits (the
interchangeable parts that do the screwing/drilling). Go
moderate here--the cheapest kinds will be nothing but
frustrating, while the expensive ones have features and
ratings you’ll never need. General rule I use is 18volt,
two batteries, charger, drill, driver and hammer.
Skilsaw:
Also known as a circular saw, this handheld

machine will allow you to replace your manual
rip and crosscut saws. In doing so, you’ll literally
save hours on woodworking projects, in addition
to gallons of sweat. It can be tricky to learn at
first, but once you’ve got it, a skilsaw can make
any kind of long, straight cut you need (with the
help of a guide such as a carpenter’s square).
Practice first, and be safe!
Orbital Sander:
These are handheld electric sanders which rotate circles

of sandpaper at very high speed. The same logic
applies to this as to all other power tools: it saves you
much time and effort, but be careful. You can easily
mess up a woodworking project by gouging out too
much with one of these tools.
Remember slowly sand the surface, its a lot harder to make a gauge in wood to look like
real wood.
AND NOW THE NEXT LEVEL
Belt Sander:
This tool runs a length of sandpaper along a wide, tread-

like belt and is better suited for bigger jobs than the smaller
orbital sanders. It must be used with two hands, and with
great care. It’s very easy to overdo it (wood removal) with
a belt sander. Be safe, the sanding belts will snap if they
get too hot.
Mitre Box:
A mitre box is great for cutting skinny lumber into angled

cuts (like those used in mitre joints), or just for making
straight crosscuts in 2x4s or 2x6s. It cannot, however,
handle wide lumber or do much rip cutting (along the
grain).

Saber Saw / Jig Saw:

A handheld jigsaw that allows for straight or curved cuts
in a number of different materials. Ask a number of
different builders about saber saws and you’ll get a
number of different opinions (most likely depending on
their specialty). For my money, the pros of the saber
saw are outweighed by the cons. Buy one only if you’re
sure no other saw will work for the job you have in mind.
AND FOR THOSE BIG BOY DIY JOBS
These are the big-ticket power tools you’ll need very infrequently or never. I
recommend that you hire / rent or borrow these items when you need them, unless
you’re part of some neighborhood tool collective or plan on starting your own business
like I did.
Nail Gun:
Shoots nails quickly and effectively into their target.

Usually attached to an air compressor. A great way to
deal with studs, roofing, and other monotonous tasks
requiring a million nails that would otherwise leave you
pounding away for days. Can be quite a dangerous tool
as the nails can deflect off their targets and go at such a
high speed they can do great damage to a body. Wear
your safety protection!!

Floor Sander:
Used to finish and refinish hardwood floors. An edge sander

works around the tight border spots while a drum sander
does the lion’s share of the work. This machine’s body makes
it looks as if a user is mowing his floor.
Ah, if it were only that simple. A drum
floor sander is a difficult, heavy,
complicated machine to use. And that’s
being nice. What’s more, you can do
great damage to your floors in an instant if you mess up. If you
need to sand a floor, try to find a large 4-head orbital floor sander available for rent.
The job still won’t be easy, but it won’t be akin to torture, either.
Table Saw:
A blade mounted on a table. Sounds simple,

doesn’t it? For a serious woodworker, this is
a major purchase that will be well worth the
price. (I would recommend investing in a
decent belt-driven contractor’s saw and
making sure it has a great fence). For
everyone else, a weekend with a rented or
borrowed bench saw will probably be enough. These are dangerous animals, so keep
your wits about you.

Compound Mitre Saw:
Compound mitre saws although bulky to move around are

very useful. The saw pictured above is the daddy of them
all. These saws are simply excellent for cross cutting timber.
The blade can be set to cut complicated roofing angles and
can cut 12 inch timber with ease. If you are looking to mitre
deep skirting boards this machine will do them for fun!
Unfortunately I have the model which only mitres 45
degrees either way and does not slide like this model.
Cheap makes of compound mitre saw often struggle cutting thick timber and often the
blade will burn on the way through.
Chainsaw:
Speaking of dangerous animals… A chainsaw is a

portable saw with a long chain blade that spins
around a bar of a given length. Chainsaws are good
for working timber, pruning trees, concrete and many
other materials. For cutting firewood, they’re a must.
Unless you live on a rural or semi-rural plot, however,
you’ll have little excuse to buy one. If a tree on your
property needs some work, head to a rental shop.
You should never use a chainsaw when you’re tired. They are known to kick, and
require a great deal of skill and patience to use properly. They come in two types,
Gas/Petrol and electric, the latter has its cons as you will be tethered to a cable which
can be restricting when in use, so I recommend a Gas/Petrol tool.
Respect this tool.

Safety
Tools can, of course, be dangerous, especially the bladed, motor-driven types. But
don’t be lulled into thinking that unless you’re using a saw you don’t need to worry about
your person. Hammers miss, screwdrivers slip, and ladders fall, blades cut deep. The
following are tips intended to help you avoid injury.
1. Stay alert: Fatigue is the primary cause in many accidents. When we’re
tired, we tend to rush or lose our concentration. These tiny moments “away”
can be just enough to let a saw slip or pound a thumb with a hammer. Drink
some
coffee or tea, if you’re fatigued, take plenty of breaks, and if you’re truly worn out,
save the repair for another day.
2. Know what you’re doing: Another good way to get hurt is to mess with
materials or tools you’re not completely comfortable with. Improper technique
can lead to accidents. When we don’t know a tool or the proper method of doing
a certain task, often we exert the wrong type of, or too much, force. A good
example is a pry bar, which has a spring action that can, when pulling nails, fling
said metal spikes back at you at high speed. So, when you don’t know the action
of a certain tool, or how a material will respond to it, go slow and err on the side
of caution. As for power tools, you should always go over the manual, at least
the safety instructions, before turning it on.
3. Beware frustration: Try to work like the Buddha. Otherwise you run the risk of
getting upset and using too much force, or going too fast. Every one of us has
gotten irritated and just taken a whack at something that just required a tap.
Resist this urge, because it often ends in pain.

4. Don’t bite off more than you can chew: This rule can be seen as a kind of
corollary to the fatigue and know-what-you’re-doing rules. Taking on jobs that
are too big, physically demanding, or too far beyond your skill set is a good way to
end up in the hospital. If it’s too hot outside, don’t replace the siding. If you’re
exhausted, call it quits. This rule is perhaps the hardest to follow for those of us
with a glimmer of the Protestant-work-ethic mindset. Still, you’ll do your mind
and body a favor by paying attention to them, instead of pretending they don’t
exist.
5. Wear protective gear:

Another one often skipped. A
complete set of protective gear
includes work gloves, which
are helpful while handling rough
wood, doing demolition work,
during long stints with handled
implements like spades or brooms, and in any other application where your
hands are at risk. They can also increase your confidence and comfort level
when doing a wide range of other activities. I keep mine on whenever I’m doing
something that doesn’t require precise manual manipulation.
Safety glasses are necessary whenever

you’re cutting with a saw, or doing anything
else that can cause debris to strike your
eyeballs (yes, this includes hammering).
Ear plugs or sound-damping muffs should be used in most sawing

operations, or when doing anything that results in a sustained
uncomfortable decibel level. A dust mask should be used during
sawing, demolition, or whenever large amounts of particles are stirred into air.
Steel-toed boots, long pants and sleeves, and a

cap can also be barrier to injury or annoyance.
6. Mind the ladder: A ladder should be set up with its base spaced out from the
wall about a third to a quarter of the distance of the contact height. That is, if
your ladder is braced 10 feet up, your base should be 2.5-3 feet from the wall.
Don’t overextend up or sideways, and always make sure the base is secure.
Always use the 4 to 1 rule, 4 meters up, 1 meter out.

Repairs
Now it’s time to begin looking at the various fixes you’ll want to make as a novice do-it-
yourselfer. The basic concepts and methods used in these repairs can, in many cases,
be extended to cover a wide range of repairs we’ve omitted. This goes along with my
basic philosophy of “handiness”: once you get your feet wet with a few projects,
you’ll gain confidence and knowledge, and the mysteries of construction and building
will begin to open up to you, allowing your intuition and imagination to suggest ways
to fix other problems. After some period of time, this process of learning, working
and seeing will result in your being one of those people of whom it is said, “She can
fix anything.” Because, when it comes to home repair, you can.
Exterior
Siding
The skin of your home, siding protects its

structural elements from
the…uh…elements. Though older
houses were sided almost exclusively
with wood or lap siding, these days’
aluminum and vinyl are more common.
They’re also a lot easier to maintain. If
your home is covered in a durable vinyl
or aluminum skin, pretty much the only
thing to do is rent a pressure washer once a year or so and give it a thorough going-
over.
If you’re one of those people whose home is still covered in beautiful (and maintenance-
heavy) wood, than the methods involved in siding care are a bit more involved.

Cracks or breaks in wood siding should be taken care of right away because moisture,
once it’s found a way in, can do some serious damage beneath the skin of your house.
Think of it as a disease working from the inside out.
Cracks or gaps in lap siding (clapboard), if minimal, can be fixed by the insertion of
products like spackle, caulk, or wood epoxy (liquid wood). First, however, you should
test the board to make sure it hasn’t rotted. Do this by poking at suspect spots with a
screwdriver. If they sink in, or if the board, when tapped, sounds hollow or different
from the other boards, then it should be replaced. If not, you can merely fill the break.
The correct method is to flood the cracks with one of these sealers, smoothing it out
with a putty knife and wiping away excess immediately with a damp cloth. Once the
product has set, you can come back and sand it down with a fine grit sandpaper, then
prime and paint the patch you’ve sealed, so that it matches the surrounding color.
This should be done in all places where there’s any seam or opening showing to the
inside. For a house, moisture is an infection. By closing up all wounds, you’ll protect it
from troubling diseases that could otherwise occur. If you see nails sticking out these
should be attended to as well. The nails should be pounded back, perhaps
supplemented with screws and/or caulk. Inspect carefully to be sure there’s no
underlying damage.
If siding must be replaced, you’ll have to obtain a replacement board, as well as a small,
inexpensive hacksaw and, if you’re planning to replace only a section of siding instead
of a whole board, a keyhole saw.
To begin, pry the offending board away from the wall on the bottom. This may be done
with a chisel or scraper, then a pry bar. Nails that come up may either be punched
through the board or cut with the hacksaw (behind the siding). Some may come out
with the board. Take care not to damage surrounding siding. Once the big board is out,

all that remains is to cut a precisely measured replacement piece, and tap it in and
under the upper board gently with a hammer. It can then be nailed in, caulked, primed,
and painted as needed.
To replace a shorter section, first pry the board away from the wall, then place small
pieces of scrap wood or other spacers in the gap created. Nails can be punched
through or cut. Then the damaged section is cut out with the keyhole saw and replaced
with a piece cut to match. This is tapped in, fastened with screws or nails, and then
caulked, primed, and painted as needed.
Pebble Dashing
If small stones or chippings are thrown onto the sand and cement mix already
applied to the wall surface, the finish is known as a peppledash surface.
Pebbledash is a popular surface coat, consisting of a thick base coat covered with a
thin coat of render and small stones.
Cracks
Small cracks should be filled as with cracks in render.
'Blown' pebbledash
It could be the thin layer has separated from the thick base coat or the whole
surface has separated from the wall behind. Carefully break away the loose area
and determine the extent of the damage.
If the thin top coat has separated, use a stabilizer to seal the surface and repair
the surface. If the damage is through to the wall, replace both surfaces in two
stages, allowing the thick base coat to dry before applying the thin pebbled layer.
If the pebbledash is to remain unpainted, try to use some of the original pebbles
as replacements. If the patch is too obvious and in a very public area, it may be
worth considering painting the wall for an alternative attractive finish.
Repairing Pebble Dashing
If it is external (which i assume it is as pebble dash in doors just sounds too wierd)
then remove any old plaster (hammer and chisel) use a stiff brush to clear any
debris (not wire) from area pressure washers are good, then patch any obvious
areas with chunks missing with sand and cement first.
Prime the area with PVA glue diluted with water 1 part glue to five parts water.
Once dry add the PVA to 1 part mortar to 3 parts water and apply a sloppy mix of
mortar to the wall to a thickness of 1 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick coat evenly and level on
the area. Score this with a scarifyer or scratch it with edge of trowel etc all over
add PVA again then add a thicker second coating sloppier (this is the hard bit
getting the right consistency) too sloppy and it slides, then use a machine to fire
the pebbles in to the second coat or use a hurling trowel throwing at 46 degrees
and commence swearing profusely until finished :-). Please make sure if external
you are adding a plastaciser/waterproofer mix to your coatings to void damp. And
pick the mortar colour to suit your house.
Be warned about 10 /15% falls off naturally but the rest stays on, so put
something down to catch the mortar and pebbles.
Rendering
It is essential to remove any dirt or grime from the wall. The most efficient way of
doing this is hosing the area with a strong jet of water or pressure washer. If
there is evidence of mould growth, use a fungicidal wash over the area before
starting the repair. If the brickwork still looks shabby after cleaning off the
surface, rendering could improve the appearance.

Rendering is a coating of sand and cement. A coating can also contain small
stones or chippings, which is called roughcast. This can be a difficult job, best
results often applied by an expert. However if you wish to turn your hand to this
here is how.
Check the Condition of the render
Cracks
If a crack has occurred in the rendering, it could be due to a structural fault. If
there are any cracks in the rendering they should be filled. Widen the crack with
the point of a trowel or old screwdriver, as this will make a wider area for the filler
to key to. Brush away any loose dust or render before applying exterior filler.
Press it in well, pushing into the gaps.
'Blown' rendering
If you tap an area of render and it feels 'live', it will probably sound hollow. This
means the render is no longer bonded to the wall behind. If it has blown, it
appears to bulge and should be broken away carefully to remove all loose render.
Brush away any loose dust and widen the area around the edge with the point of
a trowel or old screwdriver to improve the bond before applying new render. Use
a mortar mixture comprising of cement : building sand in the ratio 1 : 4. Add a
little PVA bonding agent to improve the bond with the surface behind. If the
render still feels firm, it can be left, but needs to be checked on a regular basis,
and replaced if there is a deterioration in the surface bond.
If the patching is obvious and in a very public area, it may be worth considering
painting the wall for an attractive alternative finish.

Repairing Render
Prime the area with PVA glue diluted with water 1 part glue to five parts water.
Once dry add the PVA to 1 part mortar to 3 parts water and apply a sloppy mix of
mortar to the wall to a thickness of 1 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick coat evenly and level on
the area.
Wait until semi dry and score the surface with a scarifyer or scratch it with edge of
trowel etc all over add PVA again.
Then add a thicker second coating sloppier (this is the hard bit getting the right
consistency) too sloppy and it slides.
Please make sure if external you are adding a plastaciser/waterproofer mix to your
coatings to void damp. And pick the mortar colour to suit your house.
Be warned about 10 /15% falls off naturally but the rest stays on, so put
something down to catch the mortar.
And now now you wait 20mins, when the surface is semi dry, wet the area with a
damp brush flicking water on to the surface and smooth over with the trowel.
Then wait 48 hours for it to dry, longer if required, and then paint.

Brickwork
There are so many things that can go wrong with brickwork here have a look at the list:
Re-Pointing
Replacing a damaged brick
Cracked masonry
Mortar Bees
Damp
What I am going to cover here is how to do simple re-pointing.
Re-pointing and how to re-point a damaged wall
Often when you observe brickwork you will notice that the cement from between the bricks
has started to fall out from the joints, this can happen on new brickwork but especially
happens on old brick or stone work. The cement between the bricks is often called
“pointing”.
Driving water often penetrates the cement as it ages it often becomes more porous, the
water is absorbed by the cement and when the temperature outside is low enough the
water freezes making it expand, this then forces the cement from in between the joints,
often leaving partial or full gaps between the bricks.
Although this type of damage can be caused over decades, it is important to repair the
damaged pointing as soon as possible, either by repairing just the pointing that has fallen
out (patch re-pointing) or by removing all the old cement on a large area and re-pointing
the whole area. Patch re-pointing is fine but if the amount of damage is large it is best to
do a full grind out and re-point (preferably before the onset of winter).
Care must be taken when re-pointing as there are many hazards, working at heights and
using power tools. NEVER RE-POINT FROM A LADDER Always hire a scaffold tower or
get a professional firm to put some scaffolding up for you!
Personally I find re-pointing very therapeutic but others find it boring and laborious, if you
don’t enjoy doing it, then the end job will probably not be satisfactory and perhaps it is
best to call in a builder or other professional.
Safety is of paramount importance when doing a job like this! You are going to be working
at heights with power tools. Dust will fly everywhere and there will be noise pollution also.
Chiselling the mortar from the joints is a bad idea as it causes too much vibration and can
loosen all the bricks.
I never use or recommend abrasive disks as these are considered dangerous, they produce
far more dust than Diamond tipped disks, are noisier, harder to use and can sometimes
disintegrate!
Here’s what you will usually need-
Scaffolding
A small Angle grinder (4.5 inch or 5 inch) with either a diamond tipped mortar raking blade
or a mortar rake attachment and dust guide plate.
A couple of buckets, Pointing trowel, Possibly a brick jointer, Finger pointing trowel, Large
soft brush, Paint brush/ watering spray, Safety shoes, Ear defenders, Industrial gloves,
Head protection, e.g. hard hat or bump cap, Sand, cement and hydrated lime or Mastic.

Full Face Visor Dust Mask Brick Jointer
Mortar raking diamond

Pointing trowel 4 1/2 Inch Angle Grinder
disk
Now for the hard work
If you are re-pointing a large area always start at the top, this prevents dust from falling
down onto the fresh re-pointing.
Using your angle grinder and diamond tipped disk remove the cement from the horizontal
joints but only to a depth of 10-20mm, then remove the cement from the vertical, be
extremely careful not to score the brick as this will look amateurish, grind out the joints
from approx Three courses of brick, the full width of the area that you are doing. With a
large soft brush, remove all the dust from between the joints and then wet the joints with
either a watering spray on fine mist or with a wet paint brush.

Mix half a bucket or mortar, this should be measured accurately as you want all the mortar
to be a consistent colour! If you are using mastic then use it in place of the mortar. Mix to
mortar to – 1 part cement, 3 parts building sand and ¼ part hydrated lime (this helps with
movement and makes the mortar less likely to crack). You can Also add some Mortar
Plasticiser to the gauging water, if required. This can make the Mortar easier to work
with.. The trick here is consistency! Make it too wet and you will struggle and get it all
over the bricks, it needs to be pretty firm so that if you press the mortar against the side of
the bucket you can cut it with the trowel like cutting a piece of marzipan with a knife.
The mortar should stand up on the trowel without sagging. Take your time and ensure you
do not get it all over the bricks as this looks terrible. Re-point the horizontal joints then the
vertical joints in the area that you have just ground out. When you get close to the next
row of joints to grind out, put the cement somewhere safe.

Then grind out the same size area as you did before, then repeat the pointing process until
the whole area is finished.

There are several choices when it comes to re-pointing with the finish of the
mortar.
WEATHER STRUCK FLUSH
STRAP (NORMALLY ONLY USED ON CONCAVE (this is where the brick

STONE) jointer is used)
RECESSED

Re-Pointing in progress

Gutters
Maintaining your gutters (those little

troughs on the edge of your roof) can
prevent a whole host of problems from
setting in, from leaking basements to
moisture-damaged siding. Adjustment
and cleaning is generally an easy and
smart way to keep water away from your
home; the true purpose of gutters.
The first thing to do is to make sure your gutters are taking water away from your home,
as they’re supposed to do. However the water is hitting the ground, whether from an
unassisted downspout or a splash block of some type, make sure it enters the soil at no
less than two feet from the base of your house. Any less, and you’re risking a
compromised or flooded basement. To increase the range of your runoff, you can
install one or two splash blocks (usually cement pads that catch and channel water
away from the base of the house), or you can extend the downspout with an extension
available at any hardware store or big-box home store.
Cleaning leaves and other debris out of your gutter in the spring and fall is another good
way to keep the water flowing freely away. For this, use a ladder and an old plastic
spatula (you can extend it with a broomstick length--these are the kind of situations that
call for improvisation). You may also use any of the commercial scoop devices on the
market. Either way, make sure your gutters are cleaned at least once a year. Use a
flashlight to inspect elbow joints and downspout entries for signs of clogs. Wood gutters
should be treated with linseed oil or a similar product for protection.
If your gutters are clean but still filling up with water, you probably have a sloping issue.
To drain properly, gutters need to slope approximately 1/16 of an inch for every foot of
length, in the direction of the downspout. If your gutter slope seems to be out of whack,
adjust the hangers attaching the gutter to the house until the problem is rectified. Test it
with a hose to check.
Your gutters may also leak at their joints. This can cause ugly water stains on your
house, or even lead to structural damage or basement flooding. If your gutters
don’t hold water you can patch all seams with caulk or roofing cement. Test for
structural integrity (i.e. that it doesn’t still leak) once the product has set, with your
trusty hose.

Roofs
Checking the condition of a tiled roof
From the roof space inside

If the inside of the roof is unlined, check for cracks showing daylight as this will indicate
areas needing closer inspection. Shine a torch on the timbers and check for water staining.
If stains are found on the timber, try to trace the source of the stain. It is useful to inspect
the inner roof space after a long period of rain, as the source of a leak is easier to trace.
Tiles do deteriorate with age so check for hairline cracks by looking for staining on the
tiles.
From ground level

Outside, check the whole roof by inspecting at ground level. It is easy to spot a disjointed
or slipped tile against the regular lines of tiles. If there is a change to the colour of a
section, it could be newly exposed and therefore unweathered. Look at the ridge on the
skyline and check for gaps in the mortar joints. Check for the state of the flashings at
abutments and around chimney stacks. Check for fallen pieces of mortar.
If the roof is too high to allow you comfortable access by ladder for a closer inspection,
use binoculars to scan the surface as carefully as possible, from all angles - front, back
and sides where applicable.
At the roof level

If you are using a ladder, always make sure it is set up correctly and long enough - at
least 3 rungs above the gutter. Always work with someone standing near by when you are
working at a height. See our Ladder Users Guide for details on how to use a ladder
correctly and safely.
Once at the roof level, only access the surface of the roof using a roof ladder. This is a
purpose built ladder that has wheels to allow you to push it up the sloping roof without

dislodging or damaging the slates. When the wheels reach the top of the roof ridge, by
turning the ladder over a hook securely lodges on the ridge.
You can hire roof ladders. Otherwise, there are wheel and hook sections available to buy
which fit onto conventional ladders. If you are going to be working on the house, perhaps
a scaffold tower would be worth hiring.
Shingles
No matter what your roof’s covered with-

-most likely composite shingles, tiles,
slates or felt --you’ll need to pay close
attention to it unless you like the idea
of leaky rooms, falling plaster, and a
certain moldy smell….
Shingles are your home’s first line of

defense against the elements. Their job
is to stop the initial thrust of weather.
The underlying materials of your roof are much less resistant to water, and so your
shingles should be kept as intact as possible, thus protecting the softer skin underneath
them.
Note: If you plan to go up on your roof, use correct ladder procedures, have a spotter,
and wear shoes with “grippy” treads. And step lightly--these roofs are strong, but
tromping around carelessly does them no good. Hold the rungs on the way up and the
sides on the way down. And if you’re someone who’s afraid of heights, this is not the
way to finally face up to it (as if I had to tell you that).
A roof does best when inspected once a year for lost shingles/tiles/slates, moss or
plant growth of any kind (especially in cedar shingles), and irregular or damaged
shingles of any kind. Watch for bent edges or cracked and broken (shingles losing
their granular coating) as well.

In addition, any debris on the roof should be blasted off with a hose or a leaf
blower (then make sure that any debris has not fallen into the gutters, blocking
them). Any caulking that looks weak or compromised should be removed and
replaced.
Pay close attention to the seams where the roof seals against the chimney, exhaust
pipes, or other protruding structural elements. These, along with nail holes, are the
most common leak zones. Also take a good look at the flashing, the metal sheathing
used in the trough and joint areas of the roof for extra protection. Flashing can warp
or pull up from the roof. It should be reattached and smeared with roofing cement if
this is the case. Roofing nails that have wiggled out of place or are “wobbly” may also
lead you to a leak spot.
Roofing cement (or other sealant) can also protect and shore up loose or floppy
shingles. If you’ve located any suspicious areas, or know where your leak is, smear
your product on liberally with a putty knife.
If checking for leaks in the attic, bring a flashlight and look for the water stains or chinks
of light that will indicate a hole in your house’s armor. Bring a big paperclip up with you
and push it through any soft spots or holes so that you will be able to find them later,
when on the roof. (Sometimes a stronger, thicker wire is needed.)
When replacing shingles, make sure to get the right model from your supplier, and when
pulling out the old and hammering in the new, remember to use only galvanized roofing
nails, and to cover any seams, gaps, or spots that may develop into trouble later, with
sealer.
If your roof is made of cedar shingles, generally you’ll want to call an expert in to do any
repairs. These roofs are fragile and difficult to fix properly.
Replacing all your roofing is an ugly job, and I don’t recommend it for novice (or even
intermediate) do-it-yourselfers. Cut your losses and call a professional roofing company.
Tiles
How to replace a tile
If a tile has slipped or shifted from its position

then it can be difficult to remove due to the
retaining nibs on their back edges. Use
wooden battens to lift the two overlapping
tiles immediately above the tile you need to
replace.
Next try lifting the tile in order to allow the

nibs to clear the batten and then pull it out. If
this fails, the tile could be nailed into position.
Try rocking the tile from side to side to loosen
the nails. If it still refuses to move use a slate ripper.
A slate ripper is a flat tool with cutting barbs at one end. Slip a slate ripper under the
centre of the tile. This will enable you to locate the hooked end over the fixing nail. The
steel blade slips under the tile until one of the barbs of the arrow shaped tip hooks round
the nail that is driven into the roof batten.
Once engaged, pull out the nail by pulling down on the tool or giving a hammer blow on
the curved handle. If the nail is proving difficult, the tool will cut through the nail. Repeat
the procedure with the second fixing nail and remove.

Slates
Similar process to tiles, how ever these are

usually more tricky and would recommend a
contractor for slates.

Decks
Rotten decks can cause all kinds of

problems. From weakening wood to
slimy, slippery coating, water-
compromised decks can accumulate
any number of issues. Keeping up with your
annual or biannual cleaning and sealing (a
pressure washer and a high- quality deck
sealer are recommended)
will go a long way in terms of preventative maintenance, but what to do when your deck
suddenly needs some urgent care?
The first thing is to inspect: look for rotten areas, testing for spongy wood as we did
on the siding replacement job; take a peek under the deck, inspecting posts, beams,
and joists; assess railing integrity; finally, look at the floorboards, which are often the
danger
areas.
To begin with, all protruding nails should be pounded down. Then, railings and
balustrades should be shored up, if they’re wobbly. This can be done by adding
fasteners or hardware such as angle irons or corner braces. Rotted joints should be
replaced with pieces cut to match. Use a carpenter’s square and a circular saw (or your
rip saw, or a mitre box) to make an exact cut.
The floor joists (thicker lumber that runs perpendicular to and supports the floorboards)
can be shored up by means of an identical piece of lumber (which you cut to match)
simply placed flush against the old joist, clamped, and then nailed to its weak partner. It
should then be stained to match.

Split boards that have no rot can be filled with glue, caulk, or liquid wood and then
sanded and sealed.
Support posts can be shored up by nailing a support brace between them. One end of
the brace should be placed at the top of one post, the other at the bottom of the other
post (you should measure this distance first, of course, and then cut a board to fit). This
diagonal, once nailed into place, will provide extra support to leaning vertical.
Rotten floorboards or stair steps can be pulled up with a hammer or pry bar. A proper
replacement is cut (be careful with your measurements here--an odd board will stick out
like a sore thumb) and then fastened right back where the old one was. The new board
should be stained and/or sealed to match the surrounding ones, and voila!--problem
solved.
If proper deck maintenance is done once a year, the life of your “outdoor room” can be
extended indefinitely.

Interior
Doors
Everyone’s known, at least once in their life, The

Door That Wouldn’t Close. This could be an outside
door that scrapes against the jamb, a bathroom door
that requires a Herculean jerk to pull flush, or a
basement door with a suspect latch that just keeps
swinging open. In this section we’ll take a look at
addressing these minor, but annoying, problems,
using simple methods that will allow you to get
your doors functioning again.
Doors refuse to stay open when the hinges are not

square and plumb. Sometimes, this occurs when the
door is installed, if it is done incorrectly. More often, it has occurred because of some
settling, either of the house or the door itself. If this has become a problem with one or
more doors in your house, you may be wondering how to fix it. This article will cover
several remedies.
The first things you want to know are the proper names for the parts of a door. The
door frame is made up of the pieces that outline the door opening, but are not part of
the door itself. The jamb is usually used to refer to the part of the frame against which
the door closes--on the side where the latching hardware (strike plates) is installed
(though it may also refer to the hinge side). The header is the top horizontal part of the
frame.
If your door isn’t closing properly, the first thing you should do is check the hinges. If
they are loose, they may be allowing the door to sag down and scrape against the sill
(bottom part of the frame). This may be remedied by a good tightening with your handy

screwdriver, or it may call for replacement screws, especially if the holes have been
damaged. In this case, replacing the old, non-gripping screws with longer screws will
often solve the problem.
If the hinge isn’t the issue, next take a look at the jamb and frame. Are they the culprits,
bending out to impede the door? Nail or screw any protruding parts of the frame
carefully back into position. If the jamb seems loose, and the door is rubbing on that
side, you may also be able to tack the jamb tighter against the frame, using a hand-
driven screw for which you’ve drilled a starter, or “pilot,” hole.
If the frame and the hinges are right, then we must next look to the door itself. Wood
expands and contracts in different weather, and some kinds of doors will perform
differently every season.
If the door is catching only a bit, sanding may do the trick. In this case, you can either
do a spot sand job on the portion that’s catching--working the offending edge with a
medium-grit sandpaper until it opens and closes well, then finishing with a fine grit and
applying stain or paint.
For more serious sanding, it’s better to take the door off its hinges and use your orbital
or belt sander. A carpenter’s square and level can help keep your sanding job precise.
Be careful not to take off too much--better to wrestle a door back up into position to
check it than to buy a new one because you’ve given it an unacceptable shave. Once it
closes easily you should finishing the job with a light, fine-grit sanding and painting or
staining to match.
If the door isn’t latching properly, you may need to adjust the position of the strike plate.
First, unscrew the plate and then close the door, while examining the latch and its hole
in the jamb. Once you see why it isn’t fitting in, trim the hole with a keyhole saw (or
scrape with heavy-duty sandpaper), until the latch catches in the hole. Then slip the
strike plate over the new hole, holding it there temporarily to ensure the door still closes
properly. Once you’ve gotten the strike plate in the right position, drill a couple of new
holes and then reinsert the screws.
Broken or cracked pieces of the frame and doorjamb should be attended to

immediately. Doors and their attendant structures receive a lot of abuse over the
course of a year, and it doesn’t take much for them to begin deteriorating. Cracks in
frames, jambs, or doors should be patched with wood epoxy, caulk, or some other
appropriate filler product, then sanded and repainted. Splinters on the bottom or edges
of doors should likewise be sanded and repainted.
Note: Be careful about the stain-matching process. Many doors use a fast-drying
spray-on finish that is hard to replicate without the proper tools. Make sure you can
match your door’s coating before you start making fixes.
Finally, if a piece of the frame or jamb cracks beyond repair, it can be removed
and replaced by a piece of wood cut to fit, just as we did in the siding task. The
broken piece may be removed with a circular saw, keyhole saw, or saber saw.
Some tight parts may require careful removal with a chisel. Pay close attention to
nails, door
hardware, metal framing pieces, insulation, and weather stripping during this process.
All of these hang around the door frame and need to be avoided, and/or removed during
the replacement procedure--as will, most likely, the casing around the door frame, a
few-inch wide strip of decorative wood that covers up the area where wall meets frame.
Handywork is often a process of removing such things to get to the root problem, then
replacing them once you’ve made your fix (in this case, substituting a new board for the
broken piece of jamb). Just make sure you can restore everything to its original state--
this is a cardinal rule for do-it-yourselfers, and its violation resulted in a generation of
sitcom scenes where a weary housewife rolls her eyes at her water-, wire- or plaster-
covered husband, who’s just “fixed” another household element into total disaster.

Windows
Windows are another element of the home

which can sometimes “go out of whack,” and
which may present several problems. Getting
the darn thing open is usually the first, and
always the most common, problem.
In the overwhelming majority of cases, a window

won’t open because some part of it has been
painted shut. Rusted hardware, or a broken
cord (on double-hung windows) can also
immobilize them. What to do in these
situations? Well, from a preventative
standpoint, the best thing to do is to use extreme care when painting your windows,
avoiding metals parts and opening the window several times as the paint dries. Once
it’s stuck, however, there is a range of ways to get it moving again.
First, however, we should learn a little window jargon. The frame is the structure lining
the window opening (similar to a door frame), often some woodworking and a wide sill,
the bottom piece of the framing; the vertical pieces are known as the jambs. The sash
is the part of the window that holds the glass. Window assemblies (including the frame)
can be made of aluminum, vinyl, metal, or wood.
We should also be familiar with two types of windows very common in older houses.
Double-hung windows have counterweights hidden inside the wall, which keep them
steady at the position to which they’ve been opened. These weights are connected to
the sash by means of rope and a pulley.

Casement windows swing open and out like doors. There’s no need for a gravity
balance here, hence no counterweight.
If either of these types of windows is not opening as they should, the first thing you
should do is take a putty knife and scraper and run it gently between the sash and the
frame. This will slice through any paint (one hopes) and free the window rather quickly--
this is often all it takes. A few light, quick taps with a hammer can help the other tool
break up more recalcitrant paint.
Sometimes a pry bar might be necessary between the sash and sill, to get the window
moving upward and break any hidden bonds. If so, use your scraper as a guard to
protect the window from scratching or gouging (this is why you should use something
thin and sharp, like a scraper, rather than a flat-head screwdriver or a butter knife).
Oiling the window tracks, or using a silicon or other lubricating substance, will help fussy
windows get their momentum back.
If the window doesn’t budge at all, and isn’t painted shut, it may be the case that
someone nailed one or both of the sashes shut. This was an all-too-common fix for
people who were frightened by the idea of removing a side panel (which may also be
painted shut) to get at the counterweights and replace broken ropes, but were sick of
having their sashes--unsupported by the counterweights--crashing to the sill. If there is
a nail or several in our window assembly, take a little time for inspection--a small
finishing nail might have been used and painted over. How you remove it is up to you.
Unless you have room for a hacksaw, it may be best to use a hammer or pry bar--in
these situations, you have to think for yourself. No two are alike.
If your ropes have broken in your double-hung window, don’t despair--and certainly
don’t put a nail in there to hold the upper sash up! That’ll be the next guy’s ruin.
Instead, you can either access the counterweight through a side panel in the jamb (you
may have to strip some paint to get there), or you can run off to your handy-dandy home

store and purchase what’s known as a sash control, a spring-powered system that
keeps your windows where they want to be. These are often sold in kits.
If you do end up getting into the side panel, you’ll have to re-hang the windows and
the counterweights, using new rope threaded through the pulleys. This process is
slightly different for each window, but also fairly obvious once you’re in the right place.
Sometimes, through house settling, weather, and other factors, sashes can become
wedged tightly into frames. In this case, the only recourse is to remove the sash and
sand it down until it fits the frame again. If this method is used, make sure you line the
frame with a gasket or weather stripping of some kind, so that any resultant gaps are
closed to air and moisture.
Casement windows generally have fewer issues than double-hung types do. Sure, in
strange situations they might need to be removed and sanded, and sometimes you’ll be
forced to break paint bonds on them and pry them open (carefully!) just like double-
hung. However, the main complaint with casement windows has to do with their hinges.
If these are problematic, you can hit them with a lubricant (silicon, WD-40, other),
scrape paint and gunk off them, and then use your scraper to coax the window open.
Sometimes the hinges will be rusted out and want to be replaced. Careful measuring
will send you to the hardware store with the proper specs.
And if your window doesn’t want to close again once it’s been opened, it may be time to
get out your sander and go to work!

Floors
The most popular styles of flooring today include

wood, vinyl, tile, and carpet. Of these, tile and
vinyl are the most durable. Wood floors should be
scrubbed, buffed, and waxed once a year (unless
the manufacturer prohibits waxing). Carpets
should be cleaned with an agitating vacuum
weekly and steam-cleaned twice a year, for the
longest life.
Repairs to vinyl floor most often involve concealing rugs. Problems on the edges can
be assuaged by the nailing of decorative metal strips over the boundary. These are
available in a wide variety of styles and colors at you local home store.
Tiles can be replaced, though not always easily, and it often depends on the style of tile
and grout.
Wood floors are famous for being the maintenance-heavy flooring choice. This is why
fifty years ago there was such a scramble for carpeting, or one of the reasons,
anyways. Yet, sometime in the last twenty years, hardwood floors became all the rage,
with everyone and their uncle pulling up old carpeting, tile, and linoleum in search of
their home’s “natural” look. Now those same people despair over each scratch inflicted
on their beloved floor by a thoughtless pet, child, or spouse.
The easiest way to contend with a marred floor is to rent a floor buffer that works with
light steel wool, and run it over the entire surface. Or, instead of the floor buffer, you

can use an extremely light sand paper such as 120 or 150. Once you’ve done this, you
must clean the floor. Sweep, vacuum, then wipe the floor down with a rag soaked in
the proper cleaning agent. Once this has been done, you may apply polyurethane or
buff in wax. (Some water-based polyurethane precludes the use of steel wool.)
This process eliminates many of the scratch issues and can give your floor a
comforting, almost-new glow again. It’s also much, much cheaper than getting your
floors professionally refinished and much, much easier than doing said activity yourself.
Most people who have done it dread the very thought of refinishing floors. It is a
tricky, noisy, dirty, and laborious job--and one that amateurs seldom get quite right.
Squeaky floors are another big issue when it comes to hardwood. Very often this
annoying noise is caused by the floorboards rubbing together. To fix it, try sprinkling
some talcum powder or powdered graphite into the seams of the offending board(s).
Then (first laying down newspaper or the like) step on them to get the noise going. This
will ensure (you can also use a brush, paperclip, or any other applicator skinny enough
to work the lubricant into the seam) that the product you’ve used gets where it needs to
be. A truly great moment in homeowner’s history is made when you’re stepping on that
creak, trying to work the lubricant in, and then, all of a sudden, there’s a sublime (near)
silence….
On the other hand, occasionally you’ll need to secure a loose floorboard that squeaks or
is generally a nuisance. To do this, drive flooring nails near the center of the board (this
is important--otherwise you might damage the joinery on the edges) into the subfloor
(don’t forget to check that there are no pipes or electrics running under that part of the
floor in case the nail goes right through). Once you’ve secured your board(s), tap the
nails down further with a nail set (a device for sinking nails down below a wood surface,
usually so they can be concealed), and then fill in the nail hole with a matching wood
filler--and voila! Floor fix-it realized!

Walls
Most interior walls in the houses we

live in
today have surfaces made of drywall.
The old plaster-and-lathe style, in
which a plaster wall was formed over
a latticework of small wooden slats, is
quickly going the way of the dodo
bird. Unless an owner requests
something special and has a few
dollars to burn, drywall is the default
material for interior walls.
Luckily, drywall repair is fairly easy. If there’s a tiny hole or puncture you’d like to fix, all
you need is your handy scraper, some sandpaper, and some drywall compound.
First sand down the edges of the hole, smoothing the surface completely. Then wipe up
the resultant dust with a damp cloth. Then simply dip your scraper or putty knife into
the bucket, scoop up some drywall compound, and go to work. When patching the
hole, try
not to be too liberal with the compound, or you’ll make more sanding work for yourself
later. Just smooth across enough to provide a consistent and durable patch.
Once the compound’s set, sand it down with a fine sandpaper, prime, and paint. Good
as new! (Note: an artificial texture is often sprayed over drywall to hide the joining of the
sheets in a single wall. Try to replicate this texture as best you can on your own, when
you paint, for a better match. Take a look at the rest of the wall and use your
imagination! If you’ve no idea how to match the texture, ask a salesperson when you
pick up your compound. The texture is usually available in hardware and paint stores in
spray-on cans. Make sure you have a picture or can describe your texture!)

If you’re dealing with a larger-sized hole, you’ll need a drywall patch, which is available
at any hardware store. Cut the patch material to fit the hole, apply the drywall to the
edges of the hole, stick the patch to the drywall, and then cover the patch with
compound. The rest of the steps are the same as discussed previously.
If an entire section of drywall needs to be replaced, you’ll have to obtain a replacement

piece from a hardware store. Drywall can be easily cut out of the wall with a handsaw.
The new drywall can be cut to match with a utility knife, handsaw, whatever--it’s an
extremely easy material to work with. Nor does the fit need to be super-exact--the
seams will be covered with 2-inch drywall tape coated with compound.
Make sure, when replacing a patch of drywall, that you have an exposed stud
somewhere in the middle of the repair. This is what you’ll screw your drywall to. To find
a stud, use your trusty stud finder, which we discussed earlier in the book. The location
of the stud may dictate the size of the drywall section you’ll need to replace.
Once you’ve cut out the old section, merely measure and cut out the new, then put it in
place using drywall screws. Once that’s done, seal the seam between old and new with
drywall compound. Run your scraper/drywall knife over the seam to adhere the tape to
the seam and flatten it. Let it set. When you come back to the wall, add another layer
of compound over the tape, then let that set. Finally, all that’s left is to sand, texture,
prime, and paint, and—voila good as new!.

Wiring / Heating / Plumbing
Wiring, heating (and cooling), and plumbing-

-these are the various circulatory systems of
your house. Like your respiratory,
cardiovascular, or nervous systems, they
maintain the activities necessary to life. And,
while you may feel comfortable patching a
spot of drywall, the same as you do applying
a bandage, you probably aren’t as
comfortable messing with your spinal cord,
heart, or lungs. Just so with your house’s
intricate systems. Concealed, hard to get to, and complex--they’re not for amateurs.
Unless you’ve had some training and know what you’re doing, the repair of these systems
is probably out of your reach. Fitting pipes, wrangling wiring, and working heat ducts are
not on most people’s resumes.
That being said, if you do have an interest in these areas, they can be fascinating, and
there are plenty of places to learn these skills. Mastering the ins and the outs of your
home’s circulatory systems can provide a satisfaction like no other. Plumbing problem?
You can fix that. Short-circuit? No problem. Heat’s gone funky? Let’s take a look….
Outside the expert areas, each of these systems has critical junctures that homeowners
should be aware of. The circuit-breakers are a good example. These are usually
located behind a gray metal panel in a basement, utility room, or some such place.
When too much current runs through a particular circuit, such as the combined outlets
of a single bedroom, the circuit-breaker trips and shuts off the power to that room.
When you open up the circuit box, you’ll often be able to identify the tripped circuit-
switch by its “off” position, which won’t match the others (depending on the size of your
house, you can have anywhere from 10 to 50 or more circuits and corresponding
breaker switches). If this is the case, simply flipping the breaker back into its “on”
position will be enough to get your lights going, in most cases.
On the other hand, if you can’t identify the culprit right away, if all the switches are in
their proper position, you’ll have to go through one by one, tripping all the circuits until
you find the one that works. (If you have a housemate, they can yell to you when
you’ve found it--otherwise, plug a radio into the dead circuit, making sure to unplug
other things first, and turn up the volume loud enough so you can hear it when you’ve
tripped the right one.) If your breakers are labeled, you won’t need to go through this of
course, but if they’ve recently been changed, or are inaccurate, this would be a perfect
time to get out a felt-tipped marker and label your breakers.
As far as plumbing goes, it’s a good idea to know the location of your home’s main shut-
off valve--the place where water comes into your home. Turning this valve will stop the
water flow, enabling you to deal with emergencies such as broken pipes.
Dealing with central heating and air is a specialist’s job, but you can help yourself out a
great deal in heating costs by installing an electronic timer in place of your old
thermostat. These timers can let your house get colder or hotter when you’re not home,
saving on electricity and gas/oil, then warm or cool it to perfection just in time for your
arrival home. The wire leads that are used by older thermostats can usually be plugged
right into new electronic ones, making replacement a snap for do-it-yourselfers. This is
one improvement that will pay for itself right away, and make you feel better about your
energy consumption as well. Just make sure to take a good look at both your old
thermostat assembly and any new one you might purchase, to ensure compatibility, and
that the project is within your current skill set. This is one area where the Internet, and
sounding out a salesperson, can be very helpful.

Featured Improvements
You can improve your home in hundreds of different ways. Finding home improvement
projects on the Internet and at bookstores can be a fun and exciting way to spend your
leisure time. To get you off the ground with these types of tasks, we’ve included one
basic and one intermediate improvement. First, on the interior, we’ll learn how to
install shelves. Then, on the exterior, we’ll build a serviceable deck. After you’ve
finished with these two, you’ll be ready to start exploring the never-ending world of
home improvement with confidence.
Interior: Installing Shelves
Installing shelves is often one of the first

home improvement tasks a do-it-
yourselfer will attempt. To some it may
seem easy, but setting up a precise,
strong set of shelves lays a good
foundation for other improvement
projects down the road. It allows you to
practice your skills with a level, drill, and
tape measure, and it also forces you to
do the kind of thinking necessary to home improvement projects--the planning, the
envisioning, the measuring, and the slight bit of engineering involved when considering
loads and durability. As pictured this is a excellent example of floating shelving.
The first thing to ask yourself is where you want to put your first set of shelves. This will
tell you a lot about what kind of materials you’ll want to use. For instance, in a den or
study, where you very well may be placing books on the shelves, and you’ll want a more
formal look, you may choose oak or pine boards, either pre-stained or done by yourself.
These boards are handsome and can hold a lot of weight.

For bedrooms, living rooms, or other rooms where you might use the shelves for knick-
knacks or pictures, a medium-strength plywood or particle board will do the trick,
painted to match your design concept (mine is eclectic-fusion-mania).
In the kitchen, wire shelving might work the best, perhaps for a pantry or auxiliary
shelving near the sink. These kinds of shelves are widely available at big-box stores
and hardware outlets, and have a huge range of strength ratings.
In the bathroom, glass shelves can be a real crowd-pleaser. They also deal with the
high moisture content much better than wood shelves do.
Shelves can be bought pre-cut and pre-finished, and there’s an extraordinary range
of such kits at the various shopping centers. Or, for true do-it-yourselfer status, you
can get a piece or two of 2x6 or 2x8 pine and make your own shelves. All this
involves is careful measuring, a few rip cuts with your circular saw or handsaw, then
a little edge
sanding and staining. Usually you’ll save a few bucks on nicer shelves this way.
Glass and wire, on the other hand, must be purchased from the store as-is.
In thinking about the loads each shelf will bear, use the 50-pound rule. If you’re
planning to go above 50, choose oak or pine. The shelf won’t bow as much, and it’s a
handsome option for printed matter. If you’re confident that the shelf won’t see
much heavy lifting, then the other options will be fine. Keep in mind that it’s always
better to
build for eventualities, such as shelves needing to store your son’s prize 75-pound lump
of iron, or your husband’s 80-year-old set of The Encyclopedia Britannica, which he’s
going to read from A-Z as soon as they stop showing old Seinfeld reruns on TV.
Always stronger, the better, if in doubt ask!!

Many people like to attach their shelving brackets to standards, which give them
flexibility on the height of the shelves. These standards have many different bracket-
notches which grant this adjustability.
If you’re just hanging one shelf, you probably won’t want the standards. In this case,
you may simply use angle irons or store-bought shelving brackets. Unless you like the
industrial look, you’ll want to shop around for the less utilitarian brackets. In any case,
the methods we’ll use to install your average standard-based shelves may be easily
adjusted to accommodate those who do not want or need standards.
Once you have your materials, the first thing to do is get out your handy-dandy stud-
finder and…well, find some studs. (These are the vertical wall supports behind your
drywall, remember?) Your shelves will do better if screwed into these 2x4s than
they will if you just stick them into drywall.
However, if you can’t locate or use the studs for some reason, or you need to attach
something to the drywall itself, you do have options.
My favorites are toggle bolts, which have spring-loaded wings that fold shut as you push
them through holes you drill into the drywall. Once on the other side of the wall, these
metal wings pop open, and get a wide, firm grip on the hidden side of the drywall as you
screw them in. They are tough, and can hold quite a bit of weight. Usually, once toggle
bolts are in, the wings cannot be retrieved. If you unscrew the bolt from the wall, the
metal wings drop into the abyss behind, never to be seen again. This usually isn’t a
problem, but there are now retrievable toggle bolts on the market now, which come with
a plastic attachment. If your shelves won’t be holding much weight (5-10 pounds, max)
an anchor screw can work in unsecured drywall.
Once you’ve located the center of your studs, and measured from the floor to locate
exactly where your bottom shelf should go, hold one standard up against the wall,
centered on the stud. One of its bottom notches should be at the mark where you want
your lowest shelf. Using a pencil, through the standard’s top screw hole, make a mark

on the wall as you hold it in position. Then you can let it go, get your drill, and put a
small pilot hole on the mark--remember, this is a starter for your screw, and its diameter
should be less than that of the screws you’re using.
Place your standard back up against the wall and put a screw through the top screw
hole, into the pilot hole. Screw it in, making sure with your level that the standard is
perfectly vertical and at a 90-degree angle to the floor. Make marks through the
screw holes, then drill pilot holes through the rest of the standard’s screw holes and
attach it securely to the wall.
Now, put your level atop the standard and extend it out over the next stud to which you’ll
attach a standard. (Studs are 16’’ apart--for three-foot shelves, depending on how much
weight they will hold, you may want to drill into the nearest stud as well as the one 32’’
away, thus using three standards and providing the shelves with a stabilizing middle
bracket.) Keeping the spirit level level, use its bottom edge to make a faint pencil mark
over the center of the stud where your next standard will go. Place the second standard
against the top line, and then make a mark in the top screw hole. Put a screw in, then
insert a bracket into each of the standards and set the level atop them, in a shelf’s
place, to make sure your standards are right. Once they are, secure the second
standard with screws. If you have a third standard, follow the same steps for
the second and third that you did with the first and second.
Note: if you don’t own a level, careful measuring can produce the same results. In this
case, after you’ve hung the first standard, measure again to its top and bottom. Then
go 16’’ or 32’’ horizontally, depending on where you want your next standard, and put
thin, horizontal marks at the two heights. Your standard should fit just between them,
barely covering both marks. Next, measure out from the screws of your first standard,
putting vertical marks at 32’’ (or 16’’)--these marks should lie on a line extended up
and
down from the centers of your horizontal height marks. Once you’ve made the screw
hole marks, simply align the standard between the height marks, keeping the vertical
marks centered in its screw holes. Drill pilot holes, and keep checking the
measurements as you attach the screws. It should come out nearly (or fully) perfect.
Now you’re ready to set in the brackets and attach them to the shelves. To do this,
simply begin with the top shelf, placing it over the two or three brackets, with the same
amount on overhang on either end (measure!). Then drill pilot holes up through the
brackets’ screw holes (this is important because it keeps the wood from splitting). Once
the pilot holes are in, all you need to do is to insert the screws, then move down to the
next shelf, and the next….
And then you’re all done.
That was easy, wasn’t it?
Now enjoy your new storage/display space, your next step is to fill it!

Exterior: Building a Deck
A deck takes a lot of planning, and some hard work, but it is well within the reach of
anyone with a little bit of fix-it experience. If you’ve never built or fixed anything, and the
thought of holding a handsaw or such item seems slightly exotic, then you probably
don’t want to start with a deck.
In this overview we’ll assume that you now have done a few projects, and are
comfortable working with dimensional lumber, measuring things out, and holding tools in
your hand.
[Note: This is only a “skeleton” for a deck project. Details can and should be
modified to accommodate local building codes and personal needs and tastes.
Safety requirements should be thoroughly checked with other sources.]
We’ll build a simple 10x10 deck, with easy footings (below-ground cement blocks that
support foundations, posts, and pillars). However, if you feel the urge to improvise, go
ahead! Make this deck your own, and you won’t be sorry. Even if you make mistakes,
you’ll be learning. If you want to spend a long time on your deck, perhaps weekends
for
an entire outdoor season, then by all means incorporate curves, angles, built-in bench
seats, openings in the deck for trees, outdoor lanterns, and so on. You’ll be happy you
did. However, if you’d like to finish your deck in a month or so of weekends--or a
week
of solid work--then this design, perhaps with a few modifications, should suit you
perfectly.
The first thing you need in building a deck is a detailed drawing. Unless you’re going to
hire an architect or a professional builder, you’ll need this later to show the building
inspectors, in order to get a permit. This is almost always a necessity, especially if your
deck is braced against the house (as most are) or has more than two feet of elevation
(as most do). The local building authority will make sure what you’re planning to do
meets code requirements, then she’ll issue you a permit, and perhaps send out
inspectors (or herself) at some point during the work to check on things.
It’s best, when building a deck, to try and minimize the amount of cutting you’ll have
to do. The more cutting, the more waste you’ll have, and the slower your project will
go. So, take a look at your local lumberyard or home store beforehand, see what the
board
lengths (pre-cut sizes of raw lumber) are, and then incorporate those into your plan.
You’ll thank yourself later, as you skate through the steps doing little more than lifting
and securing.
Preparing the ground for the deck involves getting rid of the grass and sod where your
footings are to go. Some people like to get rid of all the grass, throw down a thin,
durable plastic sheeting underneath, and then cover it with woodchips, gravel, or
other natural materials. This prevents anything annoying or unsavory taking root
below your deck.
The footings will generally be concrete blocks set into the ground. You’ll either rest your
posts on the top of them, bolting them in, or you’ll set the posts directly into the
concrete. Using an anchor bolt, a long l-shaped fastener that sets directly into the
center of the concrete footing, then attaches to a metal post base or the post itself, is
the better method.
Pier blocks, pyramid-shaped concrete blocks, can also be set into the top of the
concrete footings. These are available at most home stores, and allow for a few inches
of elevation above the ground for your posts. The bottom of the posts can rest on these
blocks without any fasteners, or be toe-nailed to a piece of wood set into the block, or
attach via a pre-set bolt and post base. The types of blocks available and your region (if
you’re in an earthquake-prone area, you should use the third method) will determine
how your posts attach to them.

[Note: Pushing a few spaced rods of steel reinforcing bar (rebar) into the
freshly poured cement will also lend strength to your footings.]
No matter what you decide to do, the pier holes (into which you will pour the concrete)
for the footings must be dug below the frost line, or else your deck will heave out of
shape over the years. Local building codes will generally specify what this depth is for
your area. Thirty-six to 48 inches is the common minimum range.
Things to consider before we start (planning issues): weather, wind, privacy, views,
utility lines, childproofing requirements, etc.
As for your deck material: your choices here are fairly limited--redwood, pine, or cedar,
mostly. They’ll all end up gray, in any case. Pine does perfectly well, and is the least
expensive of the three. Pressure-treated lumber is a durable option, but its corrosive
characteristics mean that you’ll need to use higher classes of electro-galvanized and
HDG fasteners (minimum 40 and G-185, respectively).
[Note: All hardware and fasteners used should be HDG (hot dipped galvanized), where
possible. This will prevent rusting and increase longevity.]
The first step in building your deck involves setting the ledger board. This is a long
board, often 2x6 or 2x8, that is secured to the side of your house; to it the floor joists are
attached--the latter (in most cases) run perpendicular to the house, and support your
floorboards.
For our ledger boards, beam (the piece of lumber, parallel to the ledger and house wall,
which connects the posts and supports the joists at the free, or unattached, end of the
deck) and our joists, we’ll use 2x6 stock. Our floorboards will be 2x4. You’ll want to
know the following hardware uses: joist hanger (connects joists to beam and ledger),
post cap (connects posts to beam), post base (secures post to footing or foundation).

In attaching the ledger to the side of the house, you must first make a mark on the
exterior at the height you want the deck to be, minus three inches if measuring from a
door (you want the deck to be a bit more than an inch lower than an access door, and
the flooring will take up a bit less than two inches), or minus one and a half inches
without a door.
The ledger should run the entire length of the deck.
Attach the ledger board to the house at the correct height, removing siding if necessary
and making sure that you’re drilling into good, solid wood. This is essential for safety:
if the house studs are moisture-damaged or rotted, you have bigger problems than a
lack
of deck, and should postpone the project until the larger issue is addressed.
Flashing (pieces of aluminum, copper, vinyl, or sheet metal that are worked in around
seams in home exteriors) is often used around the edges of the ledger board (if you’ve
removed siding) to keep moisture out. You’ll attach the ledger board with lag screws
(long wood fasteners with square or hex heads) or large bolts. Filling their holes with
caulk before you insert them will help keep moisture from entering your home.
Once your ledger board is attached, it’s almost time to make your footings. But first we
want to nail the two outside joists to the ledger board, as this will help us get an idea
where our footings (foundation, piers) need to be. Once you’ve nailed your two outside
joists to either end of the ledger board (using a carpenter’s square to ensure they’re at
a perfect 90-degree angle), support them on their opposite ends with dimensional
lumber. These temporary supports should be placed where your posts will be, and
where they
meet the ground is where your footings should be dug.
Of course, you’ll want to verify your lines on the ground. To do this, set up a box
with string and stakes to get them right. Measure very carefully, using a plumb bob

(a tool, usually part of a chalk line, that drops down to give perfect verticals) to find
out the
exact position of your footings (which will vary according to the design of the deck).
Once you’ve found them, dig out 16x16 square holes with a post-digger or a rented
power tool--the holes should reach down below the frost line, usually 36-48 inches is
enough. Next, using cement you’ve mixed yourself, fill the holes.
Once the cement’s reached the top, set a pier block (again, available at any home
store) atop the hardening mixture, working it in and keeping the top level. As previously
discussed, the pier blocks will serve as a base for your posts.
Now assemble your post-and-beam structure (the beam runs between the two posts--
being bolted, or fastened with post caps, to their tops--and receives the other ends of
the floor joists from the ledger). The posts should be cut to their proper height (it’s often
a good idea to extend posts up past the deck to use as railing supports). The post caps
(and/or angle brackets and/or bolts) then attach your beam to your posts, and you’re
ready to raise the freestanding side of your deck.
Once you have your post/beam assembly ready, you’ll want to get the posts up on their
piers, raise and secure the assembly, and nail the outside joists to the beam. Now all
that’s left for the framing is the installation of your floor joists, which connect ledger to
beam (and often overhang the latter).
First, you’ll want to lay out your joists, marking carefully the points where your joist
hangers will go on both beam and ledger (usually you’ll want to space your joist ends
about 16’’ apart). Some people prefer to rest their joists on top of their beam, which
allows for overhang, and secure them there, rather then butting them up. Either way
works fine, as long as the fasteners and joints are secure and “bombproof.” Once
you’re sure where everything’s going, it’s time to install the joists.

[Note: Make sure all your joists have the peak of their curve (all lumber curves
slightly) pointing upward, so that gravity and the pitter-patter of little feet will
bend them back into shape.]
Now, step back and admire your work! The hard part is finished. All that’s left is to nail
on the deck boards, construct a railing, and do some finishing work. Can you see it?
Next you’ll begin nailing the deck boards into the joists, parallel to the house, using
HDG nails and 2x4s. Because we’re only building a ten-foot deck, we’ll only need one
length of floorboard. However, if you need to used multiple lengths, you must always
remember to join their ends over joists.
[Tip: In the above case, stagger which joists the floorboards are joined over,
so that your deck has a pleasing pattern rather than a factory-built look. You
can extend floor boards out over the sides of the deck in any fashion at this
stage, as you’ll be able to cut them off later.]
In laying the floorboards, start from the house and work toward the posts, putting two
nails into each point where a board runs over a joist. Try to keep your work
symmetrical. Gaps of a quart-inch or so should be left in the boards to allow rainwater
to drain through it.
If you’ve rested your joists on your beam instead of butting them, just before you’ve laid
your last course of floorboards, measure and cut the ends of your joists off so that they
are one and a half inches shorter than the overhanging last course of floor boards.
Then lay the last course, and add a facing “band” joist, usually a somewhat decorative
board that covers your joists ends. It should be flush with the floor boards. Perfect!
Now you can add your railing system, bolting the balusters (vertical pieces that support
the railings) securely to the outside joist faces, then using 2x2, 2x4, or some other
dimensional lumber as rails. If you’ve extended your posts, they make excellent corner
supports. Railings can be attached to the house’s siding by means of angle brackets or
other hardware.

[Note: the railing system is the most important part of your deck. It should
have gaps narrow and small enough to prevent any small children from taking
a tumble, and should be built triple reinforced to accommodate any structural
failures that may occur down the road.]
Now seal and stain the deck, according to the wood’s needs, bolt or otherwise attach
the posts to the piers with the anchors, and you’re all set for fun in the sun. And you
should be congratulating yourself; you’ve just completed your first major project. Here’s
to many, many more.

Quick Repair and Remodeling Projects
The following (relatively) quick sample projects can be done by any novice-level do-it-
yourselfer with a few home-repair victories under her belt. The terminology may seem
daunting at first, but once you have your hand on the parts and materials in question,
things will become much clearer. (You’ll gain confidence as you go, and end up
wondering why you ever wasted money on “experts” for simple tasks--trust me.)
Replacing a tap washer
1. Turn off the water supply to the faucet/tap. This is done by turning a small metal
valve, generally located under the sink or near the base of a basin, clockwise. If you’re
unable
to locate the shut-off, or if it’s inaccessible (as might be the case with a bathtub), you
can use the main water shut-off, discussed earlier in this book, which will be located in
the basement or along the side of the house.
2. Once the water supply is cut off, open the tap to drain anything left in the pipes. If
the water doesn’t stop coming, it’s a clue that you need to return to step 1 and figure out
how to turn off the water.
3. After the pipes drain, unscrew the tap handle. Depending on the age and type of the
assembly, this will either be a matter of removing the retaining screw (capstan-head)
and cross head, then removing the shroud, or, in the case of most modern faucets,
you’ll simply pop off a plastic shroud (often the hot/cold indicator) in the center of the
handle with a blade, revealing a screw that, once removed, will allow you to lift off the
handle.
4. Once the handle is off, you’ll need to remove the nut holding down the “jumper” or
valve assembly. A wrench or spanner of the appropriate size is the correct tool for this
job. Using a pair of pliers runs the risk of gouging or stripping the nut. When loosening
the nut, it is necessary and important to hold the faucet spout tight and immobile with
one hand.

5. Remove the jumper. At the bottom end you’ll see the washer, which will either
be fastened with a nut or simply pushed onto a metal post. Either unscrew or pry
off the old washer, and then replace it with a new one of the appropriate size.
Cheap ones
work, but the newer innovations in washers will be more durable. Take a good look in
the hardware store. Some new faucets have ceramic washers, which are more durable,
but more expensive and difficult to replace.
6. Make sure the washer “seat” (the metal piece inside the tap which fits flush against
the washer) is not scarred or pitted. If it is, you’ll need to buy a “reseating” tool that
will
smooth the piece. These are widely available and easy to use. Once the metal is
smooth (or if the seat is undamaged), replace the jumper, nut, handle, screw,
and shroud. Congratulations!
Hooking up a new washing machine
This project is very simple--as long as you’re only replacing an old washer with a new
one. If you’re remodeling and need to change the location of pipes and/or electrical
outlets, it’s best to call in a professional. Infrastructure can be very tricky, and its not
something you want to mess up!
The first thing you’ll want to do is unplug the old washer and cut off its water supply.
This is usually accomplished by means of valves just behind the machine, however, if
you can’t locate or access the correct ones, you may shut off the house water main.
Next you’ll remove the hot and cold water hoses from their fittings. Do this either by
hand or with a pair of water-pump pliers. Be gentle, so as not to damage the fittings.

Once the hoses are unhooked, all that’s left is to disconnect the drain hose from the wall
(this should come out even easier than the supply hoses), then cart away the old and
bring in the new.
After you’ve put your new washer where you want it (while leaving enough room to
make the necessary connections), you’ll simply connect the hot and cold water hoses to
their appropriate supplies. Gently. Don’t use the old machine’s hoses--rubber
degrades. If for some reason your new washer didn’t come with hoses, you can
purchase new ones at any home store. Braided metal is the long-term winner.
Make sure to attach any included filters or fail-safe devices--these will prevent floods
and clogged pipes. Then connect the drain hose to the washer and the appropriate
pipe in your laundry room.
Now you can slide the machine into its final position and run it to check on your hose-
and pipe-fitting skills. If there are no leaks or disasters, you may proceed.
Otherwise, find the source of the problem and remedy it.
Now all that’s standing between you and a clean shirt is getting the machine level.
The handy torpedo level and the machine’s adjustable feet will help in this task, and
ensure that your machine doesn’t bang or travel.
…And there you are. Easy, wasn’t it? Right. So let’s finish up with something a little
more complicated.

Hooking up a new dishwasher
There are three major hook-up elements for a new dishwasher (if removing an old
dishwasher, pay close attention to how these are hooked up before you unfasten them,
and make sure the water and power supplies are cut off before you begin):
1. The drain/discharge hose, which comes with the machine and connects to the
main drain under the sink.
2. The hot water supply, which will be either a flexible copper line or a braided metal
one. This is not included, but you may purchase them at any hardware store, or,
if your old line is in good condition, simply use the existing one.
3. The electrical supply will either have wires ready to be hooked directly to a circuit
breaker, or a heavy-duty male plug.
The standard dishwasher opening is 24” wide and 35” tall. If working with new cabinets,
you’ll need to drill holes for all of the three elements above in the partition between the
dishwasher opening and the compartment under the sink. If you’re only replacing the
dishwasher, you’ll very likely have all the holes you need already there.
Turn off all water and electrical supply to the area in which you’ll be working (using the
methods discussed earlier). Test thoroughly to make sure nothing is “on.”
The first thing you’ll need to attach is the 3/8 inch “dishwasher elbow” that will connect
the hot-water line to the dishwasher’s plastic intake valve. It is crucial that the open end
of this elbow faces backward, and that it is attached as tightly as possible. The elbow
should be secured with pipe-thread compound and pipe tape.

[Note: Though this differs from manufacturer to manufacturer, very often the
discharge hose is the only piece of hardware supplied with the dishwasher.
Luckily, the rest are all available--and plainly marked--at your local home or
hardware store.]
The connection between the supply hose and the elbow will be a compression fitting,
which requires a lighter touch than the normal pipe fittings (like the elbow-valve one we
just made). Too much force can cause a compression fitting to fail permanently. In
this case, it’s best to tight it firmly, then turn on the water, check for leaks, and tighten
bit-by- bit, gently, until the leaks disappear.
Once the hot-water supply line and discharge hose are connected to the machine, they
can be run through the holes into the under-sink cabinet. The dishwasher will need to
be eased into place at this point. The discharge connection to the drain should be fit
and secured with a clamp. The hot-water supply should be connected to the
appropriate valve and fitted securely. If you’re using your old hook-up, this will already
be done--if not, you’ll need to careful tighten another compression fit.
It’s important to keep your lines from becoming kinked or tangled.
The electrical connection will usually be located in a metal box hidden behind the
access panel located at the bottom of the dishwasher. If there’s an included plug, the
operation is simple: locate the nearest outlet (usually under the sink) and plug the
machine in. The cord will be run through one of the holes drilled in the cabinet. Wiring,
however, is usually required, as machines wired directly to the power source are
considered slightly safer than those running off of a plug.
If there is no plug, there are two options for installation:
A) A heavy-duty male plug may be attached to a cable or cord, which is then wired
in turn to the connection box in the dishwasher. Its other end is plugged into an
outlet.

B) The connection box can be wired to the circuit box directly, via a
cable or cord.
Wiring should only be done by those with electrical experience. The litmus test is this:
if you need directions on wiring up your washer, you probably shouldn’t be doing it. (It’s
a very straightforward connection.)
Once the power is on, the dishwasher can be moved into its slot. It should be run once
or twice to ensure that all connections are right and proper, and then it’s feet and face
plates may be adjusted to fit plumb and snug (use a torpedo level to ensure that the
machine is sitting right). The top of the dishwasher should then be screwed into the
bottom of the countertop above it (if possible), using the included plates and hardware.
Finally, under the sink, the discharge hose should he looped up to the upper side of the
cabinet and secured there with a clamp or other fastener, in order to keep discharge
from the sink running back into the machine.
…And that’s it--you’ve hereby graduated to intermediate do-it-yourselfer. Nicely done!

Remodeling
The following overviews provide a basic look at the necessary steps involved in
remodeling a kitchen or bathroom, the two most commonly reworked rooms in the
house. Though the wiring, plumbing, and heating elements of these jobs can be
complex, and are best left to a professional, a dedicated do-it-yourselfer can reduce
costs immensely by handling the dozens of other tasks that constitute the bulk of
remodeling jobs. Remember, this is just an overview to consider before you decide
whether your skills (and patience) are up to the job! If you go ahead you may need to
research the Internet and seek advice from competent sales staff to really get the
practical help and special tips you may need for the job.
Kitchen
When remodeling a kitchen, as with all major

do-it-yourself tasks, the first step is a great
deal of planning. Your new cabinets, sink,
oven, countertop, etc. will all need to be
thought out.
A layout that allows the cooks in your family
to work together efficiently must be planned.
If your kitchen will be inoperable for more
than a few days, an auxiliary place for basic
food and
drink preparation must be found. Some people merely hold their nose and buy fast-food
or packaged food for the duration, but it doesn’t have to be that extreme as long as you
can set up a makeshift kitchen with hotplate and running water elsewhere. Plastic
utensils an d cups with paper plate mitigate the loss of your sink and dishwasher.

After you’ve done your planning and are ready to begin, the first thing to do is remove
the old appliances. Gas, electric, and water should be shut off to the kitchen before you
begin the demolition phase. In removing dishwashers, you may have to disconnect
wiring--make sure, if this is the case, that the circuit is dead. To pull out your stove and
dishwasher, you’ll need a screwdriver, hammer, and probably a pry bar.
Once the appliances are out the way, you can begin getting rid of the sink and some of
its attendant plumbing. You’ll want to reuse as many old pipes and hoses as you can;
this will save time and money when you install your new appliances and fixtures. Check
out the manual for your new appliances and fixtures, or talk to a knowledgeable
salesperson, ahead of time, so that you know exactly what kind of hook-ups your new
kitchen will need.
After you’ve unscrewed and pried out the sink, the next job is to remove the old
counter tops. This usually involves removing screws drilled up through the tops of the
cabinets beneath the countertop. It often necessitates a pry bar at its final stage.
Once the countertops are off, it’s time to begin disassembling the cabinets. All the
various components should be removed, layer by layer, starting with the floor cabinets.
Drawers, doors, etc. should be taken out first, before the framing is pulled away from
the wall. Depending on the type of your cabinets, you may need to do a little wall
demolition to get them out. This is typical in older homes, where cabinets have been
built into the wall. In newer homes the job is often much easier.
Remove and save any old hardware you think someone (possibly yourself) may have a
use for down the road.
Now that your kitchen has been gutted, you’ll want to patch walls, and tend to the
infrastructure (electrical, plumbing and heating) and the structural elements of your
kitchen, doing whatever needs to be done before the new materials are installed.

Any new floor coverings should be installed now, as well. The most popular floor in use
today is the vinyl type, with tile used often for aesthetic purposes, and hardwood
popping up in many new homes.
Once you’ve painted and done the floors, you can begin installing your cabinets,
working from the top down. Once the cabinets are in, it’s time to fit in your new sink (if
it’s recessed). Then comes the countertop, usually solid surface (such as marble or
granite), laminate, or tile.
If you’re dealing with a solid surface countertop, there isn’t much do-it-yourselfing to be
done. You’ll have to deal with a team that will take measurements for your openings,
delivering and installing the solid surface a few days or weeks later. They’ll usually
want your new cabinets done and put in before they take measurements for the solid
surface. This can cause a delay for which you may have to plan.
The next step involves the setting in and hooking up of your surface sink (if you haven’t
already put in a recessed one).
The appliances follow (dishwasher, refrigerator, garbage disposal, oven) and then all
that’s left to do is the lighting and other fixtures. After that, the fine work is done on the
kitchen, such as touch ups and finishing, and then the utilities may be turned back on.
Welcome to your new kitchen!

Bathrooms
As with kitchens, bathrooms require a lot of

forethought when a full remodel is desired. A
bathroom can be even more daunting
because of the limited space and necessities one is
often forced to work with.
Several things should be kept in mind during the

planning stage:
One, you will save money and feel good about it over time if you implement as many
energy-saving elements as possible into your new home; the bathroom is one of the
most energy intensive rooms in the whole house, and just a few simple changes, like
new faucets or low-flow toilets, can save you money and reduce environmental impact
over the long run.
Two, any existing materials/fixtures that can be saved and used, should be--this will
reduce costs a great deal.
Three, all work needs to be done according to local building codes, which have strict
requirements for bathrooms. Make sure you have the necessary inspections done at
the necessary times, or you may find yourself having to open up a wall or rip out
work
already done in order to satisfy an inspector’s official curiosity.
Once you’re ready to begin, the first thing you’ll want to do is to take out the toilet.
Make sure, when you do this, that the water is off. You’ll probably have to pry up the
bottom from its seal.

Then you can move on to the sink, unfitting all the pipes and removing the bowl
completely. To get the sink out, you’ll often need to pry it away from its caulking with a
pry bar. Note: all pipes left without fixtures (such as the one leading to the toilet we just
removed) should be covered with tin foil or otherwise blocked to prevent methane and
other gases from seeping up into the house.
Remove the cabinetry and countertop piece by piece, unscrewing where necessary and
demolishing in places where the bond is stronger than the material. A pry bar,
hammer, and screwdriver will be your essential tools.
Removing the tub is often the largest part of the job, and often involves the demolition of
one or more masonry walls to get at the pipes behind them. A sledgehammer will be
essential to this process, and may also be needed to destroy the bathtub itself. Newer
bathtubs, however, are quite often much easier to pull out than the tank-like older
models.
Once you’ve taken apart the necessary walls, you may begin performing any
alterations on the plumbing and the wiring that your bathroom design dictates. Of
course, at this point the pertinent circuits and plumbing should be shut off, so that
there’s no danger of a live current or water interrupting your work.
Now comes the framing, in which you’ll construct the walls, partitions, window openings,
etc. for your new bathroom. You’ll need to install vapor barriers (special sheets of
plastic) inside the walls, over the insulation, to keep the bathroom’s moisture from
penetrating into the wall space and going to work on the elements housed therein.
Bathroom remodeling jobs often increase bathroom space by borrowing floor space
from other rooms, or closets. If you’re planning to tear down inner walls, you’ll need to
check with local building authorities to make sure you’re not removing load-bearing
elements--or if you are, you’ll need to brace them with a temporary wall make of 2x4
studs stood upright and wedged between horizontal boards.

Installing skylights, or the housing for whirpool baths, are common steps at this stage.
Once the framing is done, it’s time to get the circulatory infrastructure taken care of.
More often than not, this will require professional intervention. With inspections,
permits, and building codes, it’s very hard for a novice do-it-yourselfer to take care of
the heating, wiring, and plumbing on your own. The correct configuration of pipes,
wires, etc. can often be done in less than a day by a competent professional.
Once the mechanicals have been taken care of, the walls are laid in. The materials
most often used are concrete backerboard (a concrete/fiberglass composite), greenwall
(a water-resistant drywall), or plain drywall. Ceramic tile will later be laid over these
surfaces (even if you are putting ceramic tiles over the drywall consider using greenwall
in case the grout cracks and leaks in years to come).
After the walls have been set in, it’s time to install the cabinets and vanity, and any other
storage spaces. Once this is done, the backsplash and countertops may be set in.
What come next is the wall tiling and the laying of the floor (usually ceramic or
vinyl). Fixtures must be purchased and installed at this point. After your shower,
sink, and toilet are in place, all that’s left is the trim and fine finish work.
Enjoy your new bathroom! (One would hope that, after all this work, it’s more like your
own little retreat/hideaway/spa.)
You now have the knowledge to get started on the road to becoming a
successful
“handyman”! Remember, have fun and be safe!

Water and Electricity do not mix
ALWAYS ENSURE THE ELECTRICITY IS TURNED OFF, SWITCH THE MAIN SWITCH OFF
AND ISOLATE THE CIRCUIT FURTHER BY REMOVING THE FUSE OR THE CIRCUIT
BREAKER, A LARGE NOTE SHOULD BE ATTACHED TO THE FRONT OF THE CONSUMER
UNIT STATING "DO NOT SWITCH ON- WORK IS BEING CARRIED OUT ON THE
ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS".
IF IN ANY DOUBT ABOUT ELECTRICITY, DO NOT

TOUCH IT. CALL OUT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN.
ELECTRICAL EMERGENCY
Electricity can KILL or cause serious burns easily.
Should you be unlucky enough to see a shock victim here is some
advice-
Never touch directly a casualty who is still in contact with the

faulty electrical equipment, If you do electricity will pass through
you as well, giving you an electric shock!
Turn off the Electricity at the main switch Immediately.
If you do not know where it is or cannot isolate the Electricity
from the casualty you can push or pull the casualty away from the
source of the shock using something which is non conductive like
a plastic broom handle or a piece of nylon rope.
DO NOT PUT YOURSELF AT RISK!
Call for an ambulance immediately by dialling UK - 999 / USA -
911 if the casualty has been unconscious or is burnt or unwell.

Ladder Safety
Many people are injured every year by falling from ladders, and some are killed. Most of
these accidents occur during household maintenance and DIY when someone falls from a
ladder or the ladder itself falls because it is being used incorrectly. This Fact Sheet brings
together expert advice and guidance. Follow it and you will lessen the risks to yourself and
to others.
Before You Start
Not every job can be done with just a ladder - or just by you. So always check:
• Are YOU up to the job? Do not overestimate your own abilities. If you are not
completely certain you can manage everything involved in doing the job properly, get
professional help. This is particularly important if you are elderly or not fully fit or not good
with heights - think about getting someone else to do it for you.• Is the LADDER up to
the job? Think ahead to what you will have to do at every stage. If you will need to move
around while you are up there or carry lots of materials, or use heavy equipment, a ladder
may not be sufficient. You might be better off using a mobile tower or scaffolding.
• If you don't know, ask a pro!
Choosing Ladders
Buying, hiring or borrowing, what to look for. All ladders should meet the required British
or European standards. Is it strong enough? New ladders are marked according to their
safe working load. This classification, however, can vary slightly in the values given and
has caused confusion. The variation is due to the different way in which the values for safe
working are expressed. In the British Standard it is "Duty Rating" and has been arrived at
by taking into account conditions and possible frequency of use for each type. The
European Standard uses "Maximum Vertical Static Load”. To help clarify this we have given
both sets of figures.
British Standard Ladders to either BS2037 (aluminium) or BS 1129 (wood).

Class 1 (Industrial) Duty Rating - 130kg (20 stone) = maximum vertical static load
175kg.
Class 3 (Domestic) Duty Rating - 95kg (15 stone) = maximum vertical static load 125kg.
European Standard ladders to BS/EN 131 (all types).
Previous Class 2 Duty Rating - 115kg (18 stone) = maximum vertical static load 150kg.
Is it long enough? The overall length of a ladder is not the same as its usable length;
allow one metre ladder length above the highest rung you use. Never stand on the top
three rungs.
Is it safe enough? Run this quick check on any ladder you are thinking of buying, hiring
or using.
General condition sound (clean and dry, free from wet paint, oil, mud etc)
No cracks
No rungs missing or loose
*Not painted
No stiles** damaged or bent
No warping or splitting (wood)
No corrosion (metal)
No sharp edges or dents (metal)
No rungs bent (metal)
Footpads OK
Caps/rubber fittings OK
All metal ladders should have slip resistant rubber or plastic feet. Damaged ladders need
professional repairing, or replacement.*Ladders should never be painted as this could hide
dangerous defects from view. A wooden ladder can be protected with clear varnish or
transparent rot proofing.**Stiles are the outside uprights on a ladder.

Putting Up Ladders
Whenever you're carrying a ladder keep the front end above head height. Turn carefully -
it's not just in slapstick comedies that people get hit by swinging ladder ends!
Short ladders (can be put up by one person)
1. Place the foot of the ladder against a solid surface (e.g. the foot of the wall to be
mounted). Then lay the ladder flat on the ground.
2. Lift the top of the ladder and walk down it, hand over hand and rung-by-rung, moving
towards the base until the ladder is upright.
3. Rest the top of the ladder against the wall or other firm surface, then lift and slide the
base out to a safe position. Ladders are designed so that their safest angle of use
comes when every 1 measure out from the wall is matched by 4 measures up
the wall.

Long ladders (need two or more people)
1. Lay the ladder on the ground with the base at the spot where it is intended to stand.
2. The heavier person then stands at the base and puts a foot on the bottom rung.
3. The remaining person starts to raise the ladder while the heavy partner reaches forward
from the base and grasps the stiles (take care not to pull or strain while the back is arched
as this can cause serious injury).
4. Once the ladder is upright, ease the top to rest against the wall or other firm surface.

Extension Ladders - Push-up Type (need two or more people for longer lengths)
A short extension ladder (under 2 metres) can be done after the ladder has been raised as
for a short ladder as described above.
For a long extension ladder (over 2 metres):
1. Lay the ladder on the ground in the position to be used and then extend it to the
required length.
2. Raise the ladder as for a long ladder, as described above.
If an extension ladder is to be extended, do so before climbing it.

Using Ladders - Work the Safe Way
DO place the base of the ladder on a firm, level, dry surface. If there is a
time when this isn't possible - working on grass for instance - tie the feet of
the ladder to stakes in the ground to stop it slipping, and place a large flat
wooden board underneath to help prevent it sinking.
DON'T put a ladder on top of boxes, bricks, barrels or any other unstable surfaces just to
gain extra height.
DO position the ladder so that the base won't slip outwards. Leaning
ladders are designed so that the safest angle of use comes when one
measure out from the wall is matched by four measures up it. Rungs are
usually about 30cm apart, so it is easy enough to get the distances
roughly right. Most new extension ladders now have a mark on the stiles
to show the safest angle of lean. Remember the rule:
One out for four up!
The more the base is moved out from this position the greater the risk
that it will slip outwards suddenly and fall down without warning.
DO secure the bottom and the upper part of the ladder by tying them
(from stiles not rungs) with rope or straps to a stable fixed object. You can
tie these to stakes in the ground or use fixed blocks or sandbags to help
guard against the ladder slipping, or buy special stabilisers. A rope or strap
tied from a stake onto a fixed object at about the height of the fifth rung from the bottom
will help to stop any further movement.
If it is impossible for some reason to secure the ladder, get another adult to 'foot it' (by
standing with one foot on the bottom rung and holding a stile in each hand.)

DO rest the top of the ladder against a solid surface, never against
guttering or other narrow or plastic features. Where a surface is too brittle
or weak to support the top of the ladder, use a stay or standoff resting on a
firm surface nearby. Bolt or clip this to the top of the ladder before putting
the ladder up.
DO have at least three rungs beyond the roof's edge if you are using a
ladder to get yourself up on to the roof.
DO make sure that longer extension ladders (over 18 rungs) have an

overlap of at least three rungs. Shorter ones (up to 18 rungs) need a
minimum overlap of two.

DO keep your body facing the ladder at all times, centred between the stiles.
DON'T reach too far forwards or sideways or stand with one foot on the ladder the other
one on something else.
DO move the ladder to avoid overstretching and resecure it whenever necessary, however
frustrating that might be.
DO try to keep both keep both hands free to hold the ladder as much as possible while you
are climbing or descending. If you need to carry any tools, use a shoulder bag, belt holster
or belt hooks.
DON'T carry heavy items or long lengths of material up a ladder.
DO hold onto the ladder with one hand while you work. You can get special trays which fit
between the stiles to take paint pots, tools etc.
DO wear strong flat shoes or boots with dry soles and a good grip.
DON'T wear sandals, slip-ons or have bare feet on a ladder.
DO make sure a door is locked, blocked or guarded by someone if you are up a ladder in
front of it.
DON'T use a ladder in strong wind.
DON'T use a ladder near any power lines.
DON'T be tempted to use a ladder if you're not fit enough, or suffer from giddiness or
aren't confident with heights. See the section above 'Are You Up To The Job?'.
DON'T allow any child under sixteen to use a ladder.

Storing Ladders
Always store ladders in a covered, ventilated area, protected from the weather and away
from too much dampness or heat.
Ladders can fall if stored vertically, so take particular care. If possible, secure the top (with
a bracket, for instance).
Never hang a ladder vertically from a rung.
Don't store a ladder in any place where a child might be tempted to climb it.
For storing horizontally, a rack or wall brackets are ideal. Keep wooden ladders clear of the
ground to avoid contact with damp.
Be Secure
Don't store a ladder on view outdoors where it could be stolen or used in a break-in.

Power Tools
Power tools can be extremely dangerous if not used correctly. The correct techniques
and personal protective equipment must be worn at all times.
Keep Power tools away from Water
Do Not use power tools if damaged
Do NOT carry a power tool with the cord
Only use a power tool for it's original purpose
Follow the Manufacturers instructions
Always unplug power tools after use

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Whilst doing DIY it is essential that the correct PPE (personal protective equipment) is used
to prevent personal injury and injury to others! Last year in the UK some 220,000 people
turned up at hospital after being injured whilst doing DIY.
The most dangerous tools in the RoSPA hit list are:
1, Knives and scalpels (21,300 accidents in the UK each year)
2, Saws (15,100)
3, Grinders (6,400)
4, Hammers (5,800)
5, Chisels (3,900)
6, Screwdrivers (3,400)
7, Power Drills (3,000)
8, Axes (2,200)
9, Planes (2,100)
10, Welding Equipment (2,000).
The majority of these accidents could easily of been prevented if the correct PPE had been
worn!

Gas Safety
Gas has been a valued service in our homes for much longer than electricity.
Gas lamps were often seen in most houses during the Victorian age and some still exist to
this day, whilst we rely on it mainly for Cooking and Heating, Gas tumble driers exist,
although they are still rare compared to electric models.
Natural Gas is colourless, odourless and non Toxic, However it is

Highly Flammable therefore Gas suppliers add a chemical
(mercaptan) that smells like rotten eggs to make it
distinguishable.
GAS IS CONSIDERED TOO DANGEROUS FOR DIY, SO HERE IS SOME ADVICE FROM GAS
SAFE CONTRACTOR
Anyone carrying out work on gas appliances or fittings as part of their business must be
competent and registered with a registered gas safety agency.
Only a competent person can carry out work on gas appliances or fittings. Do-it-yourself
work on gas appliances or fittings could be dangerous and is likely to be illegal.
Do not use any gas appliance or fittings you know or suspect to be unsafe. The Health &
Safety Executive has asked all registered installers to disconnect any gas appliance or
fittings that are so dangerous as to be a threat to life if they are used.

The Stepladder User's Guide
Introduction
Every month more than a thousand people need hospital treatment because
of accidents at home involving stepladders. This Guide gathers together
expert advice and guidance. Please follow it and lessen the risks to yourself
and to others.
Choosing a Stepladder – What to Look for when You’re Buying or Borrowing
Many different designs are available- from small 'step stools' to larger
stepladders and combination designs that can be converted into extending
ladders. The type bought most often is the 4 to 7 step folding version.
These are suited to many jobs around the house, but it's very important
never to use any stepladder that's the wrong height for the particular job
you're doing. Some are too short for high work and some - just as
dangerous - are too tall for lower work. You must be able to do your work
comfortably without ever reaching up, down or sideways.
All stepladders should meet the required British or European standards - check this
whenever you buy, hire or borrow one:
• BS 1129:1990 (British) applies to wooden ladders.

• BS 2037:1994 (British) applies to metal ladders.
• BS EN 131:1993 (European) applies to both.
• BS 7377:1994 (British) applies to step stools.
Is It Strong Enough? New stepladders are generally marked according to their safe
working load. This classification, however, can vary slightly in the values given, and has
caused confusion. The variation is due to the different way in which the values for safe
working are expressed. In the British Standard it is "Duty Rating". These have been arrived
at by taking into account the general conditions and probable frequency of use for each

type. The European Standard uses "Maximum Static Vertical Load". To help clarify this we
have used both sets of figures.
British Standard stepladders to BS 2037 (aluminium) or BS 1129 (wood) or BS 7377 (step

stools).
• Class 1 (Industrial) Duty Rating 130kg -Maximum vertical static load 175kg
• Class 3 (Domestic) Duty Rating 95kg -Maximum vertical static load 125kg
European standard stepladders to BE/EN 131 (All types)
• (Previous Class 2) Duty Rating 115kg - Maximum vertical static Load 150kg
Is It Safe?
Most stepladder accidents are caused by human error, not by ladders failing. But
any equipment in poor condition is potentially dangerous, so do this quick check before
each job.
• Is the stepladder generally sound? No damage to the stiles (the outside uprights), or
steps or top platform. If you do find any structural damage don't attempt to repair it - you
need a new stepladder.• Are the rubber or plastic non-slip feet safely in position? Before
you use the stepladder, any missing ones must be replaced - you can usually get these
from the manufacturer.• Make sure that the steps are all clean and dry.
Get Set - Avoid falls and injuries from equipment by following the points below
for every job.
Getting Ready• Wear flat firm soled shoes. Never work in high heels, bare feet or
slippers.• Check that there are no overhead hazards near where you are going to work.
Setting Up• Check that the stepladder is locked into the correct position. If it is a multi-
way design make sure that it's in the right configuration for the job you're doing. Always
follow the manufacturer's instructions. • Rest it on a firm and level base if
you're working outside. Place a large flat board on any soft ground to make
a stable base.• Place it front-on to the work.•

Never work sideways.
On the Stepladder
• Keep a secure grip at all times.
• Never have more than one person on the stepladder at any one time.
• Don't put loose tools where they could move or fall and cause an injury. Use a fixed-on
work tray, if necessary.
• Always have both your feet on a step. Never stand on the top platform to gain extra
height.
Never over-reach (get down and move the steps).
When the Job's Done
• Keep your stepladder protected from the weather in a covered, ventilated area.
• Never hang it vertically from one of its steps.
• Keep it out of the way of children.

The Right Way The Wrong Way
• Over-reaching
•Wearing slippers
• Slippery steps
• Damaged steps
• Non-slip foot missing.
• Overhead hazard
• Wrong height stepladder for the job
• No grip on ladder
• Standing on top handrail
• Uneven soft ground
• Damaged stiles.

Safety Wear
Wear steel toe cap Boots or trainers when moving heavy items or working on vehicles,
safety trainers are now extremely popular and offer valuable protection!
Safety Glasses are a must when Chiseling or cutting ceramic tiles or glass, your eyes are
easily damaged and should be protected. If working in really dusty conditions then goggles
are preferred as they offer even more protection.
Gloves come in very useful when Using a hammer, if you have ever hit your hand you will
know that a pair of thick gloves can soften the blow.
Wear a dust mask in dusty conditions, respiratory problems are never nice.
When working at heights or below people working at heights wear an helmet.
When working at heights make sure people below are wearing helmets, as you can see
from this picture a screwdriver which has fallen from a workers pocket could have easily
Killed
Hand tools can be just as dangerous as power tools, thousands of people are admitted to
Casualty each year due to the misuse of Hand Tools.
A common sense approach must be Used. Take a step back from the task in hand and try
and identify the hazards before it is too late and you become another statistic!
Tom’s House Work In Progress

I would like to say thank you to my wife, my family and everyone that has helped me get
to where I am today.
If you require any more assistance please do email me and I will get back to you with a
response.
Tom

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Tom’s Complete Do It Yourself Handyman Guide

By: Tom Joffe

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 1

Why I created this book

I come from various backgrounds, my grandfather is a master carpenter, my father is an

There are some jobs that a professional must do such as:

Some Electrical work

Make your House a Home.

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 2

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 3

Don’t fear the task, fear what you could accomplish!

Let me set you a scene…

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 4

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 5

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 6

Everyday Hand Tools

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 7

Needle-nose pliers have long, skinny jaws that help

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 8

There are three basic head types for

Square is a new development, and it is the

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 9

WELCOME TO THE NEXT LEVEL

A crescent wrench can be very helpful in

This is the old solid, wedge-shaped saw,

I totally recommend to get a toolbox saw which is

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 10

Paper coated with abrasive minerals of various types,

Levels are generally lengths of metal with

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 11

Another time-tested tool currently competing with

These look like short-handled metal spatulas and

This flat metal ruler bends 90 degrees into a “L’

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 12

This is a simple retractable blade with a metal or

A handsaw consisting of a handle, metal frame,

Used to hold materials (such as wood) together for

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 13

Everyday Power Tools

The drill is one of them. From hanging pictures to

Also known as a circular saw, this handheld

These are handheld electric sanders which rotate circles

AND NOW THE NEXT LEVEL

This tool runs a length of sandpaper along a wide, tread-

A mitre box is great for cutting skinny lumber into angled

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 15

Saber Saw / Jig Saw:

AND FOR THOSE BIG BOY DIY JOBS

Shoots nails quickly and effectively into their target.

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 16

Used to finish and refinish hardwood floors. An edge sander

A blade mounted on a table. Sounds simple,

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 17

Compound Mitre Saw:

Compound mitre saws although bulky to move around are

Speaking of dangerous animals… A chainsaw is a

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 18

© 2000-2009 The Complete Handyman www.thecompletehandyman.co.uk 19

5. Wear protective gear:

Safety glasses are necessary whenever

Ear plugs or sound-damping muffs should be used in most sawing

Steel-toed boots, long pants and sleeves, and a

Always use the 4 to 1 rule, 4 meters up, 1 meter out.