How to Install Drywall: The Family Handyman 1/14/15, 10:40 AM

How to Install Drywall

Follow these tricks for a faster, trouble-free installation

A good drywall job starts with solid backing and properly driven fasteners. Learn how
pros make their finished drywall look smooth and straight.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine:February 2003

Adjust the screw gun tip for accurate depth

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Photo 1: Adjust screw gun depth
Twist the nosepiece on the screw gun to adjust the screw depth. Practice driving
screws on a scrap of drywall backed by wood until you get the setting just right.

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Photo 2: Proper screw depth
The screw on the top is too shallow. There's no space for joint compound. The middle
screw is just right. There's a recess for joint compound and the paper face of the

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drywall is intact. The screw on the bottom is too deep. The paper face is torn through;
the screw won't hold.

Don't be tempted to use your cordless screwdriver or regular drill to drive drywall screws.
Neither will give you the precise depth control you need for trouble- free fastening. Use a
screw gun instead. They're reasonably priced and available at home centers and tool
retailers.

Photo 1 shows how to adjust the screw gun to set screws at the correct depth. Practice
driving screws on a scrap of drywall or in a closet to get the hang of it before tackling your
room. Start by placing a screw on the magnetic driver tip. Then line up the screw with the
center of the framing and squeeze the trigger to bring the driver up to speed. After the
motor is running full speed, press straight in and don't release the pressure until the
clutch starts to ratchet. You'll know by the clattering sound it makes.

Make sure the drywall is tight

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Photo 1: Push drywall against studs
Press against the drywall while you drive in screws. Don't release the pressure until
you've driven two or three screws into the framing to distribute the load.

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Close up
Screws will pop through the drywall if there is a gap between the stud and the drywall.
Pushing the drywall tight and fastening several screws in the area will solve the
problem.

Crooked studs or puffed-out insulation can prevent the drywall from lying tightly against
the studs. If the gap is too large, the screwhead will pop through rather than pulling the
drywall tight.

Tack with nails, but fasten with screws

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Ring-shank nails
Fasten the drywall in place with a few ring-shank nails around the edges.

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Drywall screws
Finish fastening the drywall with drywall screws, which resist popping and hold better
than nails.

Buy 1-1/4-in. coarse-thread drywall screws to attach 3/8-in., 1/2-in. and 5/8-in. drywall to
wood framing. Use fine-thread screws to attach drywall to steel studs. Place screws 12
in. apart where the ends or edges of sheets butt at framing members, and along each
framing member in the center of the sheet. Don't use longer screws unless you're
screwing through soft material like foam insulation into the underlying framing. The
screws should only penetrate the wood 5/8 to 3/4 in. Any deeper and they'll be prone to
popping later.

For a speedier job, take a tip from the pros and tack the perimeter of the sheets with
several ring-shank drywall nails to hold it. Then return to drive the screws. This saves you
the hassle of carrying the screw gun around while you're supporting the heavy drywall.

Provide solid backing on edges before hanging the sheet

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Photo 1: Add backing at corners
Screw 2x4 backing at the intersection of walls and ceiling if it's missing. Drill clearance
holes at an angle through the top plate. Then drive 3-in. drywall screws into the 2x4

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while you hold it down with your other hand.

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Photo 2: Add cleats
Nail or screw cleats alongside existing framing rather than recutting the sheet. Be
careful to align the face of the cleat flush with the face of the existing framing before
you nail or screw it in.

Inspect inside corners where walls intersect and along the top of walls where they meet
the ceiling. The goal is to provide at least 3/4 in. of exposed framing to drive screws into.
If you can't swing a hammer in tight spots, screw in blocking with 3-in. screws. Keep a
few lumber scraps handy so you can add backing on the fly if necessary (Photo 2).

Mark the framing

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Photo 1: Mark studs and joists
Avoid missed screws by marking all framing members before you start hanging drywall.
Mark the ceiling framing on the top plate of the walls. Avoid climbing a ladder by taping
a pencil to the end of a stick and using this to mark the framing. Then after the ceiling
drywall is hung, mark the centers of the wall studs on the ceiling drywall.

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Photo 2: Show stud locations
Mark the center of wall framing members on the floor with a pencil or marker. When
you secure the upper sheets of drywall, make sure to center a fastener on each
framing member before hanging the lower sheet. Then align a straightedge with the
fastener and the marks on the floor and draw a pencil line to mark the center of the
framing.

It's frustrating to have to guess where framing members are after they're covered with
drywall. Avoid this hassle by marking all the framing members before you start hanging
the drywall. Mark the center of each ceiling framing member on the top plate of the walls
(Photo 1). After you hang the ceiling drywall, mark the wall stud centers on the ceiling
drywall and on the floor (Photo 2). Use a pencil when marking on drywall. Ink from
markers and pens will bleed through the paint.

Remove the screws that missed the framing

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The problem
Pull out screws that don't catch the framing; they'll cause problems later when taping.

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Photo 1: The solution
Remove screws that miss framing. Set the screw gun to reverse (there's usually a little
lever near the switch). With the screw gun running in reverse, apply sideways pressure
to the tip of the screw gun while you pull it back and away from the wall to withdraw the
screw. Even if the screw doesn't come out, it should be loosened enough to pull out by
hand.

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Photo 2: Clean up screw tears
Recess the fuzzy holes left from screws that have been removed. Press the back of
your utility knife against the screw hole and twist while applying pressure to make a
divot. Fill the recess later with joint compound.

Even with careful preparation, you'll occasionally miss a stud, drive a screw too deep or
have trouble driving a screw deep enough. The screws don't usually back out easily.
Photo 1 shows one method of removing screws with your screw gun. If this doesn't work,
slide a putty knife blade under the head and press it against the threads while you back
out the screw with your screw gun, cordless drill or Phillips screwdriver. If you overdrive a
screw and break through the paper, add another screw a few inches away and then
remove the overdriven screw. Locate underdriven screws by sliding your taping knife over
each line of screws and listening for clicks that indicate protruding screws. Use a
screwdriver to twist them in a few turns, or remove them and drive a new screw alongside
with the screw gun.

Tools & Materials List

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Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time
and frustration.

Hammer
Cordless drill
Screw gun
4-in-1 screwdriver
Chalk line
Level
Dust mask
Drywall saw
T-square
Shop vacuum
Utility knife
Taping knife

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's
a list.

Drywall
1-1/4-in. drywall screws
Ring-shank drywall nails

Printed From:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/drywall/installation/how-to-install-drywall

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