Woodcraft Magazine - Issue #074 - Dec, .Jan 2017 - Build This Beautifull Flat Pack Tree

Holiday special!
Great gifts to make & give
Projects, Techniques, and Products

Build this beautiful
Flat-Pack Tree
MORE
PROJECTS:
n Cutting Boards
n Dynamo Lamp
n Dovetailed
Candle Box
n Go! Gameboard EXCLUSIVE:
Nick Offerman
PLUS… Interview
n Locking
Drawer Joint
n Turning—How to
Get Started
n Crossword!
Photos: Doug Rowan Aug/Sept 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 21

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Contents: Projects
21 Dynamo Men Lamp

Who knew a simple table lamp could
Dec/Jan 2017
be so much fun? Flip the switch and

marvel at this tireless crew of two,
who seem to be spinning the
gears of a dynamo to power the
light. We provide patterns
for guys and gears, plus
instructions for making
and assembling all the
parts. A wiring diagram is
also included.
35 Flat-Pack
Christmas Tree
32 Compact Lathe Stand
Eliminate the expense of a factory-made stand by building
Here’s a holiday centerpiece that this sturdy, mobile version. Sized to support a typical
any woodworker can be proud mini lathe, this capable cart includes space for concrete
to build and display. The tree has block ballast, adjustable shelves, tool holders, and a large
four sections that radiate from a drawer to hold more tools and accessories.
slender trunk, with screws and
keyhole slots used for quick and
easy assembly. You’ll have fun
decorating, because the boughs
are built to hold ornaments
and lighting.
40 Candle Box
What better way to practice your dovetailing
technique than to build a beautiful box like
this? Rob Spiece demonstrates how to cut tails
with a special bandsaw jig, then complete pin
board joinery by combining power and hand-
tool work. The sliding, 2-part top is a unique
variation on a classic design.
2 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017 Cover photo: Morehead Photography

Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 3
Contents: Projects
50 GO for
the Game
It’s an ancient but
ever-popular board game
you can build as a gift that will keep
on giving. The sleek design is inspired by the
game’s Oriental origin and includes an attractive base
with built-in drawers for holding game pieces.
Departments
59 Tricky Tenoning Jig 06
Contributors Page/
On the Web
08 Plus
Designed to ride in the table saw’s miter
gauge slot, this sled-type jig adjusts to cut Staying Sharp
different-size tenons with excellent precision. ça change, plus c’est la
Adjustable flip stops enable you to make même chose
10• News
duplicate joints without recalibrating.
& Views
Make it your way…with care
Contents: Tools & Techniques • Let the good times roll
14 Profiles: Nick Offerman

46 Cut-Above
Cutting Boards
Woodworkers love to make
these practical platforms as gifts
and craft sale items. But boards
26 Get a Smart Start

in Woodturning
Take advantage of this expert
don’t need to be boring. You can
significantly increase your cutting
board capabilities by putting
16• Dead-simple
advice to acquire the essential these 5 tips into play. Have more
tools and accessories for fun, and produce cutting boards Tips & Tricks
revolutionary woodworking. that are a cut above. mortising setup
• Planing boards
short and sweet
• Handscrew headstand
56 Make a Locking
Drawer Joint
Learn how to make a strong,
• Glue cleanup detailing
62 Ad Index
64 WoodSense
attractive corner joint, using your
table saw and the two
outer blades of your Olivewood
66 Buyer’s Guide
stack dado.
72 Christmas Crossword
4 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017
Contributors On the Web
No matter what kind of wood furniture
you’re looking for, chances are that Jim
Probst has made it—in several versions
and styles. You’ll even find beautiful
lamps and sculptures on the website
of this West Virginia woodworker
(www.probstfurniture.com). Not
surprisingly, Jim took on the challenge
of building a distinctive Go game board
(p. 50) with plenty of enthusiasm.
“You can’t be a woodworker and not an environmentalist,” Jim
believes. “I joined the Citizens Climate Lobby to help raise awareness Book review. Stop by our staff
about climate change,” he says. Jim’s advocacy work frequently blog to find out what we think
brings him to Washington, DC, where he has met with West Virginia’s of Nick Offerman’s new book
congressional delegation over 30 times. His new workshop will be about woodworking.
built from ash trees on his property that were killed by emerald
ash borers. (Some soon-to-be-milled ash logs are shown above.)
“Building with trees that have been killed in this manner is good
for the environment because it sequesters carbon that might
otherwise be released into the atmosphere by burning,” he explains.
A Vietnam War veteran, Jim Osborn

began his photography career after
mustering out of the Marines. “I landed
a job processing film for a printing More on turning? We’ve got it. Check
company. Before long I was working as a out the onlineEXTRA for this issue’s
photographer’s assistant. I was able to start “Get a Smart Start in Woodturning”
my own photography business in 1977.” article to learn about sharpening turning
Jim has proven to be especially tools. We’ve also got a cutting diagram
talented at capturing a wide variety for the plywood parts necessary to make
of woodworking activities. His photos have been in the magazine the turning cart featured on p. 32.
since issue #1; he photographed the Go gameboard (p. 50)
construction in this issue. These days, he makes his home in
Washington, West Virginia, with his wife and three kids.
Having a 6" rule tattooed on your

arm is one way to show your
dedication to woodworking. But
Robert Spiece backs up this body
art with artful designs and excellent
craftsmanship, as evidenced by the
candle box project that begins on
p. 40. Rob is an instructor at the Go Dynamo! Once you see the short
JD Lohr School of Woodworking in video of The Dynamo Men Lamp (p. 21)
Schwenksville, Pennsylvania. He in action, you’ll REALLY want to
also designs and builds furniture build this special project. Click on
for clients across the country. the onlineEXTRA for this article.

Staying Sharp
Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose
Don’t worry—you haven’t inspiration, and fun. You can help us out by letting
mistakenly received the French us know what we can do to make the magazine
edition. The theme I’m aiming better. We’re listening, and we answer all our mail.
to write about is “The more This is a good time for me to express my
things change, the more they stay the same.” Since appreciation for the talent, dedication and hard
a French philosopher originally coined this saying work that our magazine team puts into every issue.
back in 1849, I’m just giving credit where it’s due. Working with this motley crew (we’re all in the
2016 has been a great year for your magazine— photo below) to make the next issue better than the
because of some changes we’ve made, and also last one is more challenging and fun than I’ll ever be
because certain things have remained the same. able to describe. We send our best holiday wishes to
One of the big changes you’ve seen is the more you, and we’re looking forward to another great year.
visual presentation we’ve been using—inspired —Tim Snyder
by another old saying: “A picture
is worth a thousand words.”
You’ll notice other changes, too—
like the woodworker’s crossword
puzzle on p. 72. See if you can
complete it without going to our
website for the solution. And I
hope you enjoy our profile of Nick
Offerman, a popular comedian and
actor (you’ve seen him on Parks and
Recreation) who also happens to
be a talented woodworker (p. 14).
We’ll be adding more features
to the magazine—in print and
online—in the year ahead. The
motivating force for these changes
is something that’s never going to
change: our mission to surprise Good cheer, plus a little humbug. Somebody had to play the Grinch. Senior editor
and delight our readers. We Paul Anthony grabbed the mask and the flask with great enthusiasm. Surrounding him
want to be your favorite source are (left to right) Kim McLaughlin, Connie Harmon, Gary Lombard, Joe Hurst,
for woodworking information, Bobby Schehl, Chad McClung, Vic Lombard and Stacey Bartenschlag.
Contact us: Canada Post: Publications Mail Agreement #40612608

4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,
P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020 P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
(800) 542-9125
editor@woodcraftmagazine.com ©2017 by Woodcraft Supply, LLC. All rights reserved.
Dec/Jan 2017 Vol. 13, Issue 74 Subscriptions: (U.S. and Canada)
Woodcraft Supply, LLC allows the purchaser of
this magazine to photocopy the included projects
One year: $19.99 and techniques solely for personal use. Any other
Chief Editor: Tim Snyder Single copy: $6.99 reproduction of these projects and techniques is
Senior Editors: Paul Anthony, Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk customer_service@woodcraftmagazine.com strictly prohibited.
Art Director: Chad McClung (800) 542-9125
Graphic Designer: Bobby Schehl Safety First! Working wood can be dangerous.
Woodcraft Magazine (ISSN: 1553.2461, USPS Always make shop safety your first priority by
Copy Editor: Sharon Hambrick 024-953) is published bimonthly (Dec/Jan, Feb/Mar, reading and following the recommendations of your
Publisher: Gary Lombard April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov) and printed machine owner’s manuals, using appropriate guards
Advertising Sales Manager: Vic Lombard in the United States. Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and safety devices, and maintaining all your tools
Circulation Support: Kim McLaughlin, and at additional mailing offices. properly. Use adequate sight and hearing protection.
Please note that for purposes of illustrative clarity,
Stacey Bartenschlag POSTMASTER: Send address changes to guards and other safety devices may be removed
Office Manager: Connie Harmon Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020, from tools shown in photographs and illustrations in
Circulation: Circulation Specialists, Inc. Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. this publication.

News & Views
Make it your way…with care
I am really excited about building the Southern adjustments. For example,
Huntboard (Oct/Nov. 2016, #73), but my to reduce the overall width
problem is that the piece won’t fit where I want of the project by more
it to go. As a newbie woodworker, I’m wondering than a few inches, you can
if it’s OK to make changes, and if it will be downsize the top to maintain
necessary to draw up a new set of plans. the same overhangs that
David Traylor uses. But shortening the front rails
—Frank Rotondo, via email changes the proportional relationship between
rails, stiles, and drawer fronts. To avoid creating a
Senior Editor Joe Hurst responds: downsized huntboard with a clunky appearance,
Woodworking is all about making you can expect that a number of parts may need
a piece that works for you. dimensional adjustments. Many woodworkers use
You should be able to make minor dimensional full-size mockups to resolve proportional issues
changes (like adjusting the top’s length by an inch like these. You can make a full-size drawing on a
or two), without making a noticeable impact on piece of plywood, or create full-size parts from
the overall look of the piece. Make notes on your MDF, scrap wood, or even cardboard. If you like the
own cut list, so that you don’t miscut your parts. huntboard’s proportions, mocking up your revisions
Some changes have a “ripple effect” on other will help preserve this pleasing appearance in the
parts, and this is where you’ll need to make careful differently-sized project you create. Good luck!

News & Views
Let the good times roll
Thanks for the “Toy Trucks from 2×4s” story

in the last issue. I test-built two trucks to try
things out, made a few minor modifications to
work with the scrap I had on hand, and then
built 14 more over the weekend. Since I don’t
own a nailer, I glued the parts in place. I am
planning to build some of the other variations
including the tanker, pickup and stake-side—plus
a truck of my own design—in the near future.
My toy trucks and a few other items I build with
some woodworking buddies will be contributed
to the Marine Corps “Toys for Tots” program.
Together, we make more than 1,000 toys each year.
—Bob Redinger, Kalispell, Montana

Bob,
Nice looking convoy! We’re really excited to
hear that this story may motivate you and your
buddies to make a few hundred more. Here are
a few additional tips that might help keep things
fresh for you and your toy making crew:
• Nothing’s faster than a nail, but it can help to have
adhesive that sets faster than regular yellow glue.
Try Titebond’s Quick & Thick or DAP’s Rapid Fuse.
• Since all of the truck components work on the
standard chassis, making the components
for a few different trucks ahead of time
will speed up the assembly process.
• For a fast coloring, create different-colored
“dip tanks” by mixing a dollar bottle of food
dye with some water. For best results, mix
the entire bottle with just enough water to
dip the part. Then let dry before gluing.
Glad you enjoyed the story.
—JH
Nick gets serious about celebrating
Profiles
Nick Offerman
Offerman the community of woodworkers
Humorist, WM: Why write a immediately became clear that
Woodworker
woodworking book? I had a choice in front of me.
Los Angeles, CA On one hand I could try to
NO: I had written a couple become a huge artist like Jeff
other books and I don’t think Koons or somebody where
it would be immodest to say I had a group of employees
there was a clamoring from my making ‘Nick Offerman’ pieces,
readership for a woodworking slap my name on it and sell it
book. But my good fortune more for the name than the
and showbiz work was really piece. Or, I could embrace this
killing my shop time. I said, group of woodworkers and
‘You know what? I can steer encourage them to become fully
this machine to my own realized on their own. None
advantage.’ So I announced to of this happens without all of
my people that I was ready to these amazing collaborators.
do book three and it’s gonna
be about my shop. So I’m WM: So the cliché about the
going to need to be in there woodworker alone in his
for some months, working on shop doesn’t apply here.
the book and you can all go
to hell. And it worked like a NO: Woodworking can seem
charm. I spent most of the first like such a solitary pursuit,
four months of the year in my and at times it is. When you
shop working on the book. fire up your sander, everyone
clears out of the room. But I
WM: What do you want want to suggest to people that
A s a character on the popular sitcom Parks

and Recreation, Nick Offerman played a park
this book to achieve?
NO: I have an incredible amount

making things in general is so
rewarding. Part of the lifestyle
we’re trying to get back to
director (Ron Swanson) with libertarian views, of enthusiasm and passion not is not just making your own
relationship issues, and a love for woodworking. only for woodworking, but furniture or making clothing
If you’re a fan of this actor and comedian like I am, all handcrafting. And so how or what have you, but it’s
you know that in real life, Offerman’s woodworking can I take that desire and turn behaving as a community, a
connection is authentic. He’s been featured in it into this 350-page piece of neighborhood, as a fellowship.
woodworking magazines, and his woodworking propaganda to get people off The book is a very much a
business (The Offerman Woodshop) is staffed by of their smart phones and onto celebration of that idea. Maybe
fellow woodworkers who turn out everything from their sharpening stones? you can learn woodworking
carved spoons and pinball tables to canoes and fine a lot better if you go in with
furniture. His new book is titled: GOOD CLEAN FUN: WM: In Good Clean Fun, three friends and you each buy
Misadventures in Sawdust at Offerman Woodshop. you feature many other two of the tools you need. Or
—Chad McClung woodworkers. Why if you look around and find an
share the spotlight? artist collective, there’s gonna
Thirsty for more? be a woodworker, but there’s
If this tasty sip didn’t quench your NO: I think it’s just me being also going to be a stained-glass
thirst, drink down the full interview honest. I knew I was going to artist, and a knitter. And it’s so
on our website. You can also find be spending a lot less time in much more fun and productive
a review of Nick’s new book! the shop because of my job on to do these things together
Parks and Recreation. And it rather than on our lonesomes.
14 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017 Photo: Emily Shur/AUGUST
Tips & Tricks
TOP TIP
Dead-simple mortising setup
Loose-tenon joinery is a great way to join pieces. For
ease, efficiency, and dead-on accuracy, making the
joint requires using a jig that secures the workpiece
on end while guiding the router. However, in a pinch,
you can get away with using just your workbench, its
end vise, and a simple plywood or MDF straightedge.
First, clamp your workpiece into your vise with the
end of the work flush to the benchtop. Lay out the ends
of the mortise, and outfit your router with an upcut
spiral bit. Then secure a straightedge at the proper
distance away from the cut and parallel to the end
of your bench. To restrict router travel to the length Mount workpieces
of the mortise, you can set up stops, or simply begin in end vise, with
surface flush
the cut by plunging to full depth at the beginning to benchtop.
and end of the mortise, and then removing the waste
Clamp straightedge
between in subsequently deeper passes. You can perfectly parallel
rout the mating edge mortises in the same manner. to end of bench.
—Andy Rae, Asheville, North Carolina

Planing boards short and sweet
When I saw Paul Anthony’s method
of snipe-free planing in issue #73’s
Tricks column, I thought I’d share
a somewhat similar technique
that I use for safe planing of short
boards. As any thickness planer
manual notes, it’s unsafe to feed
boards shorter than about 12" Use double-faced
through the machine. But there’s a tape to attach runners
as tall as the initial
simple solution: Use double-faced stock thickness.
tape to attach long scrap “runners”
to the workpiece edges, making
sure that the runners start off
at least as thick as the stock so
that the whole assembly will be
pulled safely through the planer.
—Adam Swinton,
Baltimore, Maryland
Illustrations: Christopher Mills Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 17

Tips & Tricks
Handscrew
headstand
Standing short pieces at the
drill press can be challenging
if you don’t have the right
kind of vise. But there’s a
perfectly good way to get by
with no vise at all by using
a notched handscrew. For
safety and accuracy when
holding both round and square
pieces, the notches must be
cut at 90°, and their walls
must be perfectly square to
the sides of the wooden jaws. Notches hold short pieces on
end for boring on drill press.
For best results and greatest
versatility, use a bandsaw to
cut a small and a large notch.
—Marge Fillmore,
San Diego, California

Tuft-head toothbrush
gets into tight spots.
Glue cleanup
detailing
It can be difficult to clean up glue
in tight recessed spots like in beads
and other small profiles, but here’s
a good approach. Begin by using a
damp, short-bristled brush, pushing
it forward to scoop up the majority
of the glue. Keep the brush clean
by washing it in clean water as you
work. When most of the glue is gone,
follow up by scrubbing the area with
a wet tuft-head toothbrush, whose
small cylindrical head easily gets
into tight spaces. Again, keep it clean
as you work to avoid rubbing diluted
glue into the pores, but don’t keep
it sopping, as you want to prevent
dripping water into the joint.
—Frank Ellis, St. Louis, Missouri

Dynamo
Men
Lamp
Make this dynamic duo
work for you
By John Hutchinson
W ho wouldn’t want
officemates like these guys?
have their own switches so that
when you’re not in the mood
Without complaint, or even a for perpetual labor, you still
coffee break, this crew of two have a nice little table lamp. Go to woodcraftmagazine.com to
works tirelessly to help keep Despite it’s complexity, this see a short video of these men
the light on. In truth, we know project isn’t difficult, even at work. You’ll also find full-sized
that lamps require electricity if you aren’t a super scroll patterns for the gears, men,
(just as coworkers require sawyer. As you’ll see, my saw- faceplate, motherboard, and back.
coffee), but this project is still and-sand technique creates
an amusing addition to your smooth-running gears without
workplace. The motor and lamp the risk of stripping yours.
Photos: William Kanzeg Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 21
A motor moves gears & guys
G80 Medium Base, NUT
This project becomes less 4W Mirror Globe LED 10-32 (3 req.)
Lamp socket
daunting when you realize
that it’s just a basic lamp BACK
TOP
3
⁄8 × 6 × 43⁄8"
augmented by a motor that 3
⁄8 × 17⁄8 × 13⁄4" Glue spacers
spins a large center gear. to motor, then
Smaller gears are connected LONG SIDE
attach motor to
motherboard.
to the large gear. Movement 3
⁄8 × 17⁄8 × 6"
⁄4" Vent
1
is transmitted to the figures holes Escutcheon pin
through eccentric pivot points. MOTHERBOARD
3
⁄8 × 63⁄8 × 53⁄8" 11⁄8"
The gears are drilled, sawn,
and sanded to shape. (I used
FACEPLATE 11⁄4"-dia
Baltic birch plywood for 3
⁄8 × 6 × 4 5⁄8" hole
stability and durability.)
GEAR WASHERS
SPACER
1
⁄4 × 17⁄16" MOTOR
⁄16" hole
3 SPACER ⁄4" cord hole
1
1
⁄4" thick
17
⁄64" hole SLOPED SIDE
3
⁄8 × 17⁄8 × 53⁄16"
SWITCH PANEL
3
⁄8 × 17⁄8 × 13⁄4"
DRIVESHAFT
Machine Rotary
screw switches
8-32 × 1⁄2"
BASE
3
⁄8 × 21⁄4 × 53⁄8"
⁄8"
5
⁄16" hole
3
Lamp cord
PEDESTAL
11⁄2 × 15⁄8 × 2" SMALL GEAR
⁄4 × 21⁄8"
1
Machine screw
6-32 × 21⁄2" LARGE GEAR
1
⁄4 × 43⁄64"
PLATFORM Machine screw

⁄8 × 3 × 7"
3 10-32 × 4"
1
⁄16"
⁄8"
5
Construction sequence
• Build the case and base.
Minor motor modifications. To extend • Make, test & install the gears.
the motor’s driveshaft, I attached • Saw, assemble, and
a 3⁄16" aluminum tube. To join the install the workers.
parts, drill a 3⁄64" hole, insert a brass • Wire it up.
escutcheon pin, and then “weld” the • Light it up.
joint with a drop of superglue.

Getting in gear
While some woodworkers rely
on indexing jigs to make gears, I
prefer to use full-sized patterns
that provide center points for
holes and sharp lines I can
sand to on a small belt sander.
First, affix the patterns
to plywood with Elmer’s
washable school glue, taking Bet on your brad point. Instead of marking center points with an awl, save
care to press all patterns time by pressing the brad point’s tip into your workpiece before turning
flat. Drill the holes as shown, on your drill. To prevent blow-out, place the gear on a fresh backer.
then cut each gear free on
the scrollsaw, taking care to
stay outside your lines. Next,
use a strip sander (with the
platen removed for better
maneuverability) to sand
the inner edges of the gears.
Finish up by sweep-sanding
the outer tips of each gear.
Test the gears, as shown
on page 25. If necessary,
do more sanding until
your transmission turns
smoothly. Then remove the
pattern with a damp sponge,
apply a finish and install Sand to the line. After sawing out the
the gear assembly. To make bulk of the waste, I rely on my 1" belt
the gears appear metallic, I sander outfitted with a 220-grit belt.
painted them with copper Sand between teeth first (photo above),
and silver acrylic paints. then remove the waste from each tip.
Take rough-sawn spacers for a spin. After drilling and rough- Use a bit of assistance. Because the gears and their respective
sawing the spacers, sandwich them on a 3⁄16" bolt and spin- spacers need to be perfectly concentric, I use the drill bit
sand on the drill press until they are perfectly round. as an alignment pin when gluing these parts together.
Illustrations: Trevor Johnston Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 23

HEAD
Make & install the workers 1" ball knob
If you’ve created the gears for a smooth-running WASHER

transmission (facing page), you’ll have no trouble
with these workers. As with the gears, drill
NECK ARM
the alignment and pivot holes first, saw 5
⁄16 × 1" dowel 1
⁄4 × 13⁄16 × 21⁄2"
close to the lines, then sand to final shape.
After assembling the workers, screw them
to their gears and glue them to the base TORSO
as shown in the photos below. 11⁄16" × 15⁄8 × 27⁄8"
Connect the motor and lamp socket wires to
the lamp cord, using the wiring diagram below.
Attach the back when you confirm that everything
works. I tacked the lamp cord to the base with a
dollop of hot glue to keep it from pulling loose.
Aluminum rod
⁄8 × 2"
1 NYLON SPACER
⁄4 o.d. × 9⁄64" i.d. × 3⁄4"
1
STOP BEAD
5
⁄16" dia.
LEG SPACER
3
⁄4 × 11⁄8 × 21⁄8"
Let’s get cranking. I cut threads in Use toothpicks to

keep parts aligned
the gears to hold pivot screws, but a during glueup; then Machine screw LEG
dab of epoxy will also do the trick. cut them flush. 6-32 × 2 1⁄2" 1
⁄4 × 11⁄8 × 31⁄4"
Wiring Diagram
Take a stand. I center each worker about 5⁄8" in from the

sides and 1⁄16" back from the platform’s front edge. The
alignment toothpicks make handy reference points.

Patterns for guys & gears SMALL GEAR
(3 req.)
7
⁄64" dia.
LARGE GEAR
⁄64" dia.
7
⁄4" dia.
1
3
⁄16" dia.
⁄16" dia.
3
HEAD
(2 req.)
⁄16"
5
Drill neck hole
Saw hole square to before sawing torso.
fit the driveshaft.
⁄32" pivot holes

5
TORSO ARM
(2 req.) (4 req.)
Make time for a test spin
Even though I’ve made wooden gears for years, I still
try them out on a test board before assembly. Use the
gear pattern to locate the holes on the faceplate.
5
⁄32" pivot hole
LEG ⁄32"
3 LEG SPACER
(4 req.) alignment (2 req.)
holes
Need Parts?
A printed set of patterns—and all components
excluding the flat stock, paint, and bulb—are Full-sized patterns
available as a kit. See the Buyer’s Guide on p. 66.
Get a Smart Start
in Woodturning
For about $800, you’ll have everything you
need to work wood in a revolutionary way
By David Heim
Safety gear. Instead of

relying on safety glasses
alone, many turners
prefer the additional
protection provided
by a full face shield.

F or less than the price of a good
bandsaw and less space than you need
You can branch out to make one-of-a-
kind gifts like pens, bottle stoppers,
Get turned on by turning!
Here are just a few of the
for a planer, you can set up a great pizza cutters, and barbecue tools things you can make with
basic woodturning center. Spending (see photos at right). You might even the gear shown here.
about $800 on a small lathe and some try your hand at turning a bowl or a
versatile turning tools will let you nice box with a lid and a decorative
greatly expand your woodworking finial. Just ahead, I’ll explain what
horizons. You can make unique equipment will give you the best
spindles and legs for chairs and stools, value from your turning start-up
balusters for a staircase, finials and fund. For prices and product numbers,
feet for period chests and dressers. see the Buyer’s Guide on p. 66.
A full-sized lathe requires a fair amount

of floor space and can cost as much as
$8,000. For your first lathe, think small.
A mini lathe like the $400 Rikon model
shown here is surprisingly versatile.
You can use this lathe to turn anything
from tiny pen blanks and ornaments to
12"-dia. bowls and 16"-long spindles. The
1
⁄2 -hp motor delivers plenty of power,
and the reliable step-pulley system
(shown in the photo at left) provides six
speed options (from 430 rpm to 3900
rpm). Electronic variable-speed control
is available on other mini lathes for
faster speed changes, but it typically
increases the price by $200 or so.
Check the alignment. Run this quality

check on a new lathe. The points of the
two centers should meet. If they don’t
meet, something is out of alignment.
Exchange the lathe for another one.
Shop-made support. Factory-made

stands are available, but you can
build this mobile lathe stand for
less than $100. For dimensions
and construction details, see the
project that begins on p. 32.
Photos: Randy O’Rourke; Finished project photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 27
Five key tools and a chuck
You may be tempted to buy a set of six tackle. Try these five first, then add to
or eight turning tools. I did that when I your tool selection as needed. You’ll also
started turning. But experience taught want a 4-jaw chuck like the one shown at
me that the five tools featured here can bottom right, to give you versatile gripping
handle just about any turning project I capability for different turning projects.
ge
uge
gou
ge
l go
gou
ing
ow
dle
ugh
⁄2" B
pin
e ro
1
⁄2" S
ndl
1
Spi
w
Ske
Spindle specialist. You’ll need a spindle roughing gouge to take a long spindle
blank from square to round. Get one that’s at least 3⁄4" wide; bigger is better
here. This tool is only for spindle work. It isn’t safe to use for shaping bowls
because the gouge could break where the shank enters the handle.
Super shaper. Though tricky to use at

first, a skew will soon become your
go-to tool for shaping beads, cutting thin
grooves, or making fine finishing cuts.

Plunge cutter. With its narrow blade and
sharp point, a parting tool can easily
make deep cuts to cut a turning free
or establish a target turning diameter.
You can also use the sharpened sides
of the tool for shaping details on
spindles. A diamond-shaped parting
tool won’t easily get stuck in its kerf,
but a tool that’s rectangular in cross-
section will work fine, too. An 1⁄8"-
wide parting tool is your best bet.
Workhorse tools.
A ⁄2" spindle gouge
1
and a 1⁄2 " bowl gouge

will be the tools you
rely on for many shaping
operations. Although they
ool
look similar, they aren’t

ng t
interchangeable. Their flutes

are shaped differently and the
ti
cutting ends are ground with

Par
different bevel angles. To make

them cut, rub the bevel on the
wood, then pivot the handle to bring
the cutting edge into the wood for
controlled cutting action. Use the spindle
gouge to shape beads and coves. The
bowl gouge shapes both the outside
and inside of bowls and tall vessels.
Great gripper. The jaws on a

scroll chuck adjust with a pair of rods
or a geared wrench and are self-
centering. This enables you to grab a
spindle blank or tenon while keeping
the workpiece on-axis. The chuck will
also expand against a circular recess,
making it ideal for bowl turning.

Take your turning
to the next level
with two key
accessories
There’s no shortage of specialty
tools and accessories for
turning, and a turner’s favorite
accessories usually depend
on the type and scale of work
being done. But you can’t go
wrong with the two accessories
mentioned here. Get these first.
Flexible support. This Oneway Wolverine grinding jig is a favorite
among turners because its adjustable support and tool-holding
features make it easy to sharpen a variety of turning tools.
More woodturning info

For my money, the smartest and expert advice on safety, tools,
thing a beginning turner can do and techniques. It costs $18.95.
is join the American Association As a member, you can also access
of Woodturners as well as a the AAW Video Library, an ever-
local woodturning club. growing roster of informative
A year’s membership in videos. For more information,
AAW costs $60 and gives go to www.woodturner.org.
you access to the most
comprehensive store of
woodturning instruction
Diameter duplicator. If you want to and advice available
make multiple identical turnings, you’ll anywhere. The AAW offers Visit our website for a free
need some good calipers to make sure members Getting Started article that explains how to
diameters are uniform from piece to in Woodturning, a book sharpen turning tools.
piece. Expect to pay $15 to $25. featuring practical projects
New or used?
Websites like Ebay and Craigslist almost frequent sharpening. Old tools may be rusty.
always have plenty of used turning tools, Worse, they may have unseen damage that
lathes, and accessories for sale. Ebay is also would make them dangerous to use.
a good source of wood for turning. • Avoid sets. Buy only the tools you
But it’s risky to buy tools or machinery sight- really need, one at a time.
unseen. Here’s my advice for playing it safe: • Don’t buy a used lathe unless you can check
• Comparison-shop. Check sites like woodcraft.com it out first. If you’re new to turning, it’s smart
or woodturnerscatalog.com to familiarize yourself to bring an experienced turner with you to
with reputable tool brands and current prices. check out the equipment. Your buddy will know
• Look for new tools. “Vintage” tools may be made the difference between problems that can be
of carbon steel, which cuts very well but needs fixed and problems that are deal-breakers.

Compact Lathe Stand
Get the most from your mini lathe with a sturdy, mobile workstation
that’s easy to build
By David Heim
E very
lathe deserves
a nice stand—a
sturdy workstation
that won’t wobble or
vibrate while you work.
This mini lathe stand does
a good job of meeting these
requirements—and it’s portable.
The materials required should leave
you with some extra cash to spend on
turning tools or nice turning blanks.
My stand is sized to provide a compact
but ample platform for a mini lathe. I made room in the
cabinet for a couple of concrete blocks to give the unit extra
mass—very helpful when turning bowls and other large blanks.
You can easily accessorize your stand by adding tool holders on
the sides, and by creating holders and partitions in the drawer.
Before building your own stand, confirm that your lathe will be at a
comfortable working height when mounted on the stand. Most turners
prefer to have a lathe’s axis at elbow height. To achieve that, you may need
to increase or decrease the length of your cabinet sides and center divider.
Build the case, then add drawer, top and base
You can build this lathe stand from a single sheet of 3⁄4" plywood, some scrap
pieces of 1⁄2" plywood, and a little solid lumber. The drawer slides that work
best are 12" side-mount, full-extension slides rated for 75 lbs. For strength
SOLID WOOD EDGING
and longevity, I assembled all case joints with glue and 2"-long screws. Miter to fit top.
3
⁄4" rabbet, TOP
1
⁄2" deep ⁄4 × 13 × 35"
3
SIDE
3
⁄4 × 13 × 223⁄4"
TOOL HOLDER
TOP CLEAT ⁄4 × 31⁄8 × 13"
3
3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 341⁄2"
DRAWER SLIDE CABINET TOP HOLDER
⁄4 × 121⁄4 × 341⁄2"
3 SUPPORT
3
⁄4 × 3 × 13"
3
⁄4" dado,
1
⁄2" deep
BACK ADJUSTABLE SHELF DIVIDER

⁄4 × 223⁄4 × 341⁄2"
3 3
⁄4 × 121⁄4 × 163⁄8" 3
⁄4 × 121⁄4 × 151⁄2"
CABINET BOTTOM
Drawer Detail 3
⁄4 × 121⁄4 × 341⁄2"
IRON-ON EDGING
DIVIDER
3
⁄4 × 41⁄2 × 111⁄2"
SOLID WOOD 2×4 BASE
DRAWER FALSE FRONT TOOL CRADLE 19"W × 38"L
3
⁄4 × 53⁄4 × 35" 3
⁄4 × 21⁄8 × 111⁄2" Half-lap joint
DRAWER BACK
3
⁄4 × 5 × 321⁄2"
⁄4" rabbet,
3
⁄2" deep
1
21⁄2" Double
locking caster
SIDE
3
⁄4 × 5 × 123⁄4"
Rout cove for finger ⁄2" rabbet,

1
pull along bottom ⁄2" deep

1
edge of drawer front.

DRAWER FRONT DRAWER BOTTOM
1
⁄2 × 5 ×321⁄2" ⁄2 × 113⁄4 × 32"
1
Order of Work
• Cut cabinet sides, top, bottom, • Install drawer box with slide hardware,
and back to finished sizes. then install top cleats.
• Complete side joinery work: Rabbet the top, bottom, • Cut the solid wood drawer front to finished size,
and back edges. Dado the sides for the cabinet top. and rout a cove finger-pull along its bottom edge.
• Assemble sides, back, bottom, and cabinet top. • Apply finish to all sides and edges of drawer front,
Cut and install the center divider. then screw it to drawer box from inside the box.
• Cut two adjustable shelves. Cover front edges of • Build the base from 2× lumber, then
shelves and cabinet with iron-on wood edging. screw the cabinet to the base.
• Build the drawer box, then apply finish • Build and finish the top, then install it. Drill shelf
to cabinet, shelves, and drawer box. pin holes in cabinet sides and center divider.
Photos: Randy O'Rourke; Illustrations: Greg Maxson Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 33
Flat-Pack Christmas Tree
A woodworker’s solution to sap and needles on the living room floor
By Andy Rae
I n many homes, the Holiday Season includes an evergreen tree that

serves as a well-decorated centerpiece for several weeks of festivities.
Families who don’t like to deal with watering a real tree or cleaning sap
and pine needles off the floor often replace the real thing with a plastic
version. But if you’re a woodworker, there’s a much nicer option. This
well-proportioned wooden tree is designed to display
all the decorations in your Christmas collection.
When the party’s over, the tree’s four boughs
detach easily (without tools) from a slender trunk,
and store in “flat-pack” fashion until next year.
Baltic birch or Appleply plywood (available from
hardwood plywood dealers) is a good choice for
the panels: Its 5-ply construction is strong yet
lightweight, the core is void-free, and the
material paints beautifully. The panels
mount on screws in the post through
keyhole slots, letting you assemble or
disassemble the tree without tools in
minutes. Small holes on the tips of the
boughs let you hang ornaments at
the edge of the tree, and four sizes
of circular cutouts allow variously
sized ornaments to hang in the
middle. Notches along the edges
accommodate strung lights to
brighten the holiday cheer!
Dimensions: 36" dia. × 651⁄2" tall
Opening photo: Morehead Photography; Inset: Larry Hamel-Lambert Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 35
Fast setup, flat storage! FINIAL
21⁄2" dia. × 4"
Panhead screw
#8 × 11⁄4"
This faux fir consists of 4 shaped plywood panels DOWEL Washer BOUGH
⁄2 × 11⁄4"
1 1
⁄4 × 181⁄2 × 60"
(boughs) that attach to a center post via screws
extending through keyhole slots. A rotating block Stopped hole LOCK BLOCK
atop the post locks the panels down on their screws.
1
⁄2 × 7⁄8"d. 11⁄4" sq. × 1 1⁄4"l.
A finial in the lock block provides a crowning touch. Panhead screw
When the holidays are over, a simple twist #8 × 3⁄4"
of the lock block allows quick removal of the
panels from the post. All the parts can then POST
11⁄4" sq. × 60"
be stacked flat ’til the next holiday season.
Construction steps
• Saw out the panels
• Dimension the post and lock block
• Mount the keyhole screws
• Cap it with a finial
• Paint time!
Bough Layout
6" V-notch
1
⁄4 × 1⁄2" l.
3" dia.
4" dia.
60"
Keyhole Detail Sheet Cutting Layout

6" dia. 5
⁄8" dia. 6" 6"
⁄16"
3
1
⁄4" dia. ⁄8"
3
⁄8"
5
8" dia. Rip sheet in half,
⁄2" dia.
1
then saw diagonals. 60"
3"
123⁄4"
181⁄2"
6" 6"
36 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017 60"
Stack-cut all 4
panels at once
Sturdy, lightweight, and void-
free, Baltic birch or Appleply
plywood makes great tree panels
and accepts paint readily. Start
by cutting the sheet into four
sections, as shown opposite.
Then secure the sections to
each other with pin nails shot
through 1⁄2" hardwood blocks
(making for easy pin removal
later). Next, lay out and drill
the 1⁄4- and 5⁄8"-dia. holes on the
drill press. Then use a jigsaw
with a narrow scrolling blade to
saw the profile, the ornament
holes, and the V-notches for the
light wires. Finally, lay out, drill,
and saw the keyhole slots.
Small blade, small curves. With all

four sheets pinned together, drill a
1
⁄2" starter hole inside each circle, and
then use a narrow scrolling blade to
cut the curve to your layout line.
Saw out the profile. Prop the

assembly onto tall blocks, saw out Connect the keyholes. Drill the
the ornament openings (shown here), bigger hole slightly larger than the
and then the shapes of the boughs. diameter of the screw’s head, and
Smooth any rough edges with 150-grit the second smaller hole equal to the
sandpaper wrapped around a block. screw’s shank. Then saw between
the holes to form the keyhole slot.
Project photos: Andy Rae; Illustrations: Melanie Powell Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 37
Make the post,
turn block and finial
Choose a straight-grained softwood or hardwood
for the post, and saw it and the lock block to
dimension. Lay out and drill the post screw
holes on the drill press, install the screws, and
check the fit of the panels on the screws. Drill the
stopped hole in the lock block on the drill press,
and secure it to the top of the post with a screw
and washer. You can turn the finial on the lathe,
or buy one from a home-improvement store.
Either way, glue a 1⁄2"-dia. dowel into the bottom
of the finial to fit the hole in the lock block.
Not too tight. Install the post screws,

and adjust the screw projection
until the panel slides smoothly
but snugly against the post.
Locate the post screws. Lay out the pilot holes by extending
lines squarely around the post. Then mark at center, and
drill the holes on the drill press using a 1⁄8" twist bit.
Twist to lock, and top it off.

Drill for the dowel. With a handscrew holding the work, use a ⁄2" Forstner bit
1
Turn the block 45° to the faces
in the drill press to drill a 7⁄8"-deep hole at the center of the block. Follow up by of the post to lock the panels in
drilling through the center of the hole with a 3⁄16" bit for the screw and washer. place. Then cap it with the finial.

Decorate
with paint!
It’s time to have fun with paint.
You can choose any colors you
like, or follow my lead and use
a can of medium green paint
along with smaller cans of
white and black. Mixing the
hues gives you three shades
of green. Apply the first and
darkest coat with a brush, and
let dry. Then dry-brush the
second medium-green coat
over the first, keeping your First coat dark; second coat medium. Paint the faces and edges
bristles lightly coated with of the leaves with dark green, and let dry. Then use a ‘dry’ brush
paint while dragging the brush to layer streaks of medium green over the previous coat.
in sweeping motions. Finally,
stipple the third and lightest-
colored coat using wadded
up newspaper, dabbing the
surface for texture and depth.
Three colors from one. Using

medium green as a base, mix in a
little black to get a first-coat of dark
green. For the topcoat, combine
a little white with the green.
Splatter matters. Finish the organic effect by padding light green

over the previous dried paint coats with a towel or wadded up
newspaper. Have fun, and let your inner Rembrandt rule!
Color choices
One quart of medium green paint plus some
white and black will let you mimic the
colors of nature. Here’s the dark/light mix:
Dark green = 2 cups medium green with 8 tbs. black;
light green = 1⁄2 cup medium green with 4 tbs. white.

Candle Box
A clever dovetailing approach yields an enlightening gift
By Robert Spiece
M ost woodworkers approach a time in

their journey when they say “I’m going to learn
If you’re currently traveling down the dovetail
path, I think you’ll appreciate this method.
how to cut dovetails by hand.” When I came to While you’re training yourself to cut dovetails,
that conclusion, I began some research. The you may as well produce something other than
options? Let’s see: pins first, tails first, chopping scrapwood, and this candle box is a great by-
waste, coping saw, western saw, Japanese saw, product. It’s ambitious enough to allow you to hone
cut to the pencil line, cut next to the pencil line, your skills, but not so challenging as that through-
cut the pencil line in HALF? *#!% THAT! dovetailed blanket chest you’ve got on your
But I did try a lot of different methods, playing build list. The box makes a great gift. Even
to my own strengths and avoiding my weaknesses. if you’re not angling for a tasty candlelight
Eventually, I arrived at a friendly approach that dinner, anyone appreciates knowing where the
combines traditional hand-cut techniques candles are during a sudden power outage.
with the advantages of the modern That’ll get you points for being
machine-based woodshop. both romantic and practical.
(See page 66 for a source for
beautiful hand-made candles
to accompany the box.)

A tabletop heirloom in 7 pieces
A great exercise in
cutting dovetails, this
solidly built box is made
of just 4 dovetailed
CAP
walls, a rabbeted bottom 1
⁄2 × 31⁄4 × 11"
that’s doweled in place,
and a 2-piece lid that
slides in grooves. Notch
RUNNER
9
⁄16" R.
7
⁄32 × 313⁄16 × 111⁄2"
⁄8"
3
REAR PINBOARD 1
⁄4" groove
1
⁄2 × 4 × 43⁄8" 1
⁄4" deep
TAILBOARD FRONT PINBOARD

1
⁄2 × 4 × 111⁄2" ⁄2 × 33⁄8 × 43⁄8"
1
5
⁄16" rabbet
3
⁄8" deep 2"
BOTTOM
3
⁄4 × 41⁄8 × 111⁄4 DOWEL
3
⁄16 × 1"
⁄16"
3
TAILBOARD LAYOUT 5
⁄8"
⁄4"
1
15
⁄16"
⁄4"
1
Order of work:
15⁄16"
• Prepare the box stock
1 ⁄4"
1 ⁄4"
1
• Make the bandsaw jig

⁄4"
1
10°
• Mark and cut the tails
• Mark and cut the pins
15⁄16"
• Assemble the walls ⁄16"
3
15
⁄16" ⁄4"
1
• Make the bottom and top
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: John Hamel; Illustrations: Frank Rohrbach III Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 41
A template tends
to the tail layout
Decide on the length of your box
based on your choice of candles.
Pin baseline This one will hold candles up
to 101⁄2" long. If possible, resaw
the box walls from a piece of
thick stock for good grain and
color match throughout. Use
mild, straight-grained stock for
easy pin-paring later. Orient the
pieces as desired, number them
on their top edges, and mark an
Begin with baselines. After cutting the pieces to their X on the inside faces. Then scribe
finished size, set a marking gauge to the stock thickness, the joint baselines as shown.
and scribe a baseline around the faces and edges of the Next, set a bevel gauge to 80°, and
tailboards and across both faces of each pin board. mark out the tails on both faces
of each board. I suggest making
a plywood layout template for
efficient layout of multiples.
Transfer tail cheek lines from template

to tailboards. A template makes quick
work of tail layout. After drawing lines
Template
across the ends of the tailboards as
shown, use a bevel gauge to carry the
angled tail lines down to your scribed
baselines on both faces of the stock.
Make a dovetail sled for the bandsaw

A well-fit dovetail joint depends on tail
cheeks being precisely perpendicular to
10° the stock faces. After countless hours of
errantly hand-sawing cheeks, I determined
that it’s not worth the hassle. Why not use
the bandsaw, which is designed to make
90° square cuts perfectly? Outfitting it with
a simple bandsaw sled works wonders
to efficiently and repeatedly cut perfect
tails. The beauty of the bandsaw sled is
twofold: First, it automatically positions
your tailboard at the proper angle. Second,
after making the first cheek cut, you simply
flip the workpiece, and your next cut is
immediately placed for a symmetrical tail.
Tails first: Saw the cheeks,
nibble the waste, and
chop to the baseline
Start by loading a tailboard into the sled with the
3-tail rear of the box at the leading end. Adjust
your rip fence to align an outermost cheek line
with the blade, and then saw to just shy of the
baseline. Make the same cut on the remaining
tailboard. Then flip the board edge-for-edge and
make the opposing cheek cut on each tailboard
in turn. Reset the fence to make the follow-up
cuts, as shown in the photo sequence.
After making all the tail cheek cuts, use the
bandsaw to nibble away most of the waste between Easy-flip symmetry. The symmetrical
the tails, staying just a bit shy of your baselines. 3-tail layout at the rear of the box
Move briefly to the table saw to trim away the allows you to make the outermost
half-pin socket waste at both rear edges and at cuts on both tailboards with the same
the bottom front edge. To make the cut, stand the saw fence setting by simply flipping
stock on edge against the miter gauge, and exactly each board in the sled. Afterward, adjust
trim to the baseline. Finish up by chopping back the saw fence for the next innermost cuts, as shown here.
to your baseline between the tails as shown.
More steps for asymmetry. Because the 2-tail layout at the front isn’t symmetrical, you’ll need to exercise a little more care and
patience, resetting the fence more often. Just work methodically, and remember to saw both tailboards in turn when making each cut.
Nibble, then chop. After

nibbling away most
of the waste with the
bandsaw, chop away the
rest, working in from
both faces to meet in
the middle. Begin by
chopping to within 1⁄16"
of your baseline, and
Jig-less edge-cut. To make the parallel cut in the half-pin then tuck the chisel in
socket at the top front of each tailboard, simply run the line and undercut by
the workpiece along the fence without the sled. chopping slightly inward.

Precise pins:
Scribe, rout & pare
Now you’re ready to use your perfect tails as a
pattern to scribe your pins. To precisely position
the tailboard, tape a ledger strip to its inside face,
carefully aligning the strip with the scribed baseline.
Then transfer the tail pattern onto the pinboard.
Mill two 2×6s straight, square, and to a width
that equals the length of the pinboards. Then,
working on a dead-flat surface, use a wooden
handscrew to clamp the pinboard against the
2×6s. Outfit your router with a 3⁄8"-dia. straight
bit, setting it to cut about 1⁄16" shy of your pin
Knife-tracing. Use a marking knife to scribe around the tails baseline. Now rout out the majority of the waste
onto the end of the pinboard. Follow up by squaring the marks between the pins, beginning with a shallow cut
down both faces to the baseline. run right to left across each waste area to prevent
tearout. To finish
up the pinboard,
chop to the baseline
as before, and then
pare the pin cheeks.
(Here’s where it
pays to use straight-
grained stock.)
Chop & pare. Chop to

the baselines, working
in from one face, then
Rout out the waste between pins. Clamp your the other (left photo).
pinboard against thick, dressed stock that will Above, the face-grain
serve as a router platform. With cutting depth set knife cuts act as a path
1
⁄16" shy of the baseline, make controlled cuts to of least resistance for
remove waste between pins. No harm’s done if the chisel to follow
you cut into your support platform (inset photo). when paring the pins.
Rout the grooves for the lid

The groove for the lid runs
through the front ends of the Groovin’ with an edge guide. Place
long walls and terminates the front edge of the tailboards
8" beyond the tailboard
1⁄
against each other, and sandwich
baselines at the rear of the them between scrap at each end,
box. You could rout this with everything pressed against a
stopped groove at the router straightedge and clamped in place.
table, but I prefer to use Then plow the groove, stopping
an edge guide as shown. 1
⁄8" outside the tail baselines.

Glue up the walls
In preparation for glue-up, test-fit
the walls without forcing them. A hand from handscrews.
If necessary, pare away the saw Wooden handscrew
marks from the tails to create a clamps provide a great
push fit rather than a hammer way to pull the joints
fit. Ideally, a perfect fitting joint together. Stepped cauls
will need only to be glued and span the pins to apply
then tapped together. However, pressure to only the tails
have some clamps nearby in case for a tight-fitting joint.
the parts don’t seat all the way.
Make and fit the bottom and lid

Cut the bottom 1⁄4" smaller than the wall assembly in both width
and length, and rabbet its edges to fit into the box. Sand or plane
a slight chamfer on the edges, and then attach the bottom to
the walls with 4 dowels, as shown in the drawing on p. 41.
The 2-part lid consists of a runner and a cap. The runner
has a projecting “tongue” that serves as a pull. The cap (a
great opportunity to use figured wood) is notched at the front
to provide finger access. Size the runner to slide easily in its
grooves, cut the radius at the front end, and then shape the
tongue with a spokeshave and sandpaper. Drill the notch at
the front end of the cap using a 11⁄8"-dia. Forstner bit. Then
shape the edge of the notch with a 1⁄4" round-over bit. Two caps at once. For efficiency and neatness
In preparation for gluing the two parts together, when drilling, lay out two caps end to end, then
make a simple centering jig like the one shown drill the hole at the center. Afterward, crosscut
in the photos. Then glue up the lid. the board in half to create two notched caps.
Assembly centering jig. Using the

unglued parts, tack scrap strips against
the rear and sides to align the cap atop
the runner during glue-up. Use a liberal
coat of paste wax on the parts of the
jig where you expect glue squeeze- Capping the runner. With the sanded runner in place in the assembly jig,
out, then wipe away any excess. Make sparingly apply glue to the underside of the cap to avoid excessive glue squeeze-
sure to include a thick cover caul to be out, and then clamp the cap down under a cover caul. Let the piece sit in the jig
placed over the cap during assembly. for 40 minutes, then pull it out to pare away any squeeze-out with a chisel.

Cut-Above
Cutting Boards
5 tips guaranteed to make last-minute gifts
look anything but cheesy.
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
C utting boards and trays are some of the

most appreciated and easiest last-minute gifts a
Because no two scrap bins are alike, this story
isn’t a step-by-step. My goal is to help you set up
woodworker can make. Simply saw, sand, apply your shop with a
finish, add a bow, and you’re out the door. The few helpful tools
gift-giving season offers a perfect opportunity to and materials, and
make the most of your stash of special offcuts. then jump-start
Wood plays the starring role, but a few tips, your imagination Any cutting board deserves a
plus a little inspiration can be a huge help— so that you can good finish. Visit our website
especially when time is tight. Here are a few of transform your scraps for a free article on food-
my favorite tricks for making the most of wood and store-bought safe finishes. Just click on the
that might be waiting for you in your scrap bin, strips into unique and onlineEXTRAS for this issue.
and some finished examples to make your own. practical works of art.
#1 Let the wood
do the work
A blank with beautiful grain is the easiest way
to elevate a cutting board to studio status. I tend
to stick with hard, close-pored woods that are known
to be food-safe such as maple, walnut, cherry, birch, and
sycamore. It’s best to stay away from tropical woods that
contain toxins or allergens. (Since finding olive boards at
boutique kitchen stores, I’ve added it to my acceptable list.)
Let the wood grain dictate the shape of the board. I use
chalk to sketch out the board’s outline. If the shape doesn’t
work, wipe away the lines with a damp rag and try again.
I sand ordinary boards up to 400 grit, but with
figured boards, I’ll take it up to 600 grit.
#2 Get the right tools

You’ll put your tablesaw, bandsaw, and thickness beats a sanding mop. A polishing wheel
planer to work, but to keep the production line (found at auto parts stores) saves time by
humming, be sure have these items close at hand. eliminating plenty of hand rubbing.
(See the Buyer’s Guide on p. 66.) Bits and blades Your choice of finish depends on how close you
should be razor sharp. Freud’s Quadra-cut router are to the finish line. With a few days’ grace, I
bits and Fisch’s forstners cost prefer the look and sheen of a drying oil, or oil/
more, but require less varnish. Flaxseed and walnut oil dry, but a little
cleanup than other bits. more slowly. If finishing a project the morning of
Plan on putting your drill the dinner party, wipe
to work. For smoothing on mineral oil and
curves and polishing top it with wax.
ornery end grain, nothing
Sanding mop
Polishing wheel
Photos: Ralph Lee Anderson Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 47

#3 Don’t settle
for simple strips
There’s no reason why
your creations should
resemble the strip cutting
boards sold at your local
kitchen store. As these examples
show, the same rip-and-glue
approach can be used with more
creative results. Combine four
small strips of store-bought
exotics with a live-edge piece
of walnut. To play the angles,
pull out your tapering jig.
It can also be fun to try
a circular approach. After
gluing together four squares
of contrasting strips around
a single axis point, I used a
Double-
stick tape trammel-guided router to
cut out a round board.
For a completely different
look, make a board featuring
curved strips and contrasting
woods. For this effect, I held two
boards together with double-
stick tape, drew some lines,
and stack-cut the contrasting
blanks on my bandaw with a
8" blade. Separate the stacked
3⁄
pieces and rearrange them

to show alternating species
in your finished boards. TIP:
If a joint isn’t perfect, try
sandwiching a flexible narrow
strip of wood between the two.

Flush-trim bit
#4 Power through
production runs with patterns
Patterns and templates can help you crank out a stack of cutting
boards in no time. Whether you make your own or buy them
(Woodcraft has a good selection; see the Buyer’s Guide, p. 66),
here’s how to make patterns work for you: First, use your pattern
as a tracing template. Place it over your cutting board blank,
and mark a cut line about 1⁄16" beyond the pattern edge. TIP: A
pattern made from clear acrylic or polycarbonate allows you to Half-pattern ensures
see the grain, which can be helpful with a figured wood blank. symmetricity.
Once you’ve cut out the rough shape of your board, adhere
the pattern to the blank with double-stick tape, then rout the
finished shape with a bearing-guided bit, as shown above.
#5 Give ’em a lift

How about handles and feet for your cutting boards? These
hold-ups add visual interest as well as functionality. Handles
simplify storage, while feet raise wood away from moisture,
and can help keep a board from sliding off a countertop.
The photos at right show a few of my favorite handle treatments.
Drilled or pattern-routed holes are two options to consider. Or you
can add a pair of drawer pulls to create a serving tray. Leather offers
additional design opportunities. To avoid rust stains, use brass,
stainless steel or aluminum fasteners to attach leather to the wood.
For feet, wooden pulls or wheels can be attached
with dowels. Clip-on silicone pucks
will prevent a board from sliding
Solid brass screw
around on the counter. They
can also prevent cross
contamination by color-
coding surfaces used for
cutting vegetables or meat.
Aluminum
pin

GO for the Game
Use your joinery skills and a special jig
to create an ancient but ever-popular game
By Jim Probst
C omputers started to beat

humans at chess in the late 1980s.
dimensions, which match up
well with standard black and
use. After all, an ancient game
like Go deserves a well-crafted
But the world’s best programmers white game pieces, or stones. gameboard. A pair of opposing
really struggled to achieve the The board shown here is made drawers built into the base
same success with the game of Go. using walnut as the primary solves the problem of storing
Originally developed in ancient wood, but I’ve also made the lozenge-shaped stones.
China, Go is probably the oldest versions in maple and cherry. My biggest challenge with
board game in history. Today Designing and building this this project was figuring out
it enjoys worldwide popularity board game was challenging how to rout a perfect grid in
(see sidebar, facing page). and fun. I wanted an Oriental- the gameboard surface.
Go gameboards come in style design that would look Your Go game adventure begins
different sizes, but mine is good enough to keep on a on the facing page. See the Buyer’s
based on the most widely used coffee table even when not in Guide (p. 66) for stone sources.

A gameboard grid on a beautiful base
Poplar is a good choice
for this project’s
interior parts. Use clear
hardwood to make
the gameboard and
outer base assembly,
including drawer fronts.
Routed grooves
1
⁄8" W × 1⁄8" D Rout cove along
outside edge.
Figure-8 fastener GAMEBOARD

3
⁄4 × 21 × 21"
#20 Biscuit
11⁄2"
DRAWER GUIDE
3
⁄4 × 1 × 63⁄4"
RUNNER
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 111⁄2"
3
DRAWER RAIL SIDE RAIL

⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 4 9⁄16"
3 3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 171⁄4"
INNER RAIL POST

3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 161⁄2" 13⁄8 × 13⁄8 × 35⁄8"
For grain continuity, cut drawer

rails and front from a single 18"-
long board. See p. 52 for details.
Construction Sequence Learn more about Go

• Cut posts, rails and drawer fronts to size. More detailed directions for playing Go can be found
• Make locking joints for posts and rails. online, but the basic game goes like this: Plays are
• Cut and sand curves in posts. made by placing a stone on a “point,” or intersection.
• Assemble the base, including the inner frame. You always start with an empty board, and black plays
• Complete drawer joinery and assemble drawers. first. The object of the game is to win “territory” by
• Fit drawers in base and install drawer guides. surrounding one or more of your opponent’s stones.
• Make the jig for routing the top. Rout the top grid. Stones don’t move once they are placed, but “captured”
• Apply finish. (surrounded) stones can be removed from the board. For
• Join top to base with 4 figure-8 fasteners. news, strategy, and interaction with other Go enthusiasts,
• Play the game! go to the American Go Association: www.usgo.org.
Opening photo: Morehead Photography; Illustrations: Christopher Mills Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 51
Make a base with room for built-in drawers
The base is a post-and-rail 1"
assembly that includes an inner Post & Rail Details TONGUE 1
⁄2"
frame. Make sure to cut each
RAIL TONGUE RAIL
drawer front from a single board 1
⁄4 × 3⁄8 × 21⁄8"
that’s at least 18" long. This will
enable you to keep the wood grain 21⁄2"
continuous, and to create just a 35⁄8"
small (1⁄16") gap between drawer
fronts and drawer rails. Dry-fit the
post-and-rail assembly together
so you can determine the correct
dimensions for the inner frame.
Stopped groove 1
⁄4" Shoulder 13⁄8"
⁄4 × 3⁄8 × 23⁄8"
1
Bit location
Stop lines
Rout two stopped grooves in each post.

Reference marks on the post and fence enable
me to get the groove length correct. One
Drawer rail
groove in each post requires lowering the post
onto the bit, which needs to be done carefully. Rabbet the rails. A stopblock on my tablesaw’s crosscut sled aligns the shoulder
Rout 1⁄8"-deep grooves first, then raise the bit cuts. Then I run each rail vertically through the blade to create a tongue. Complete
to 1⁄4" and repeat to complete the grooves. each tongue by making a 1⁄4"-wide shoulder, as shown in the drawing above.
Base Construction Sequence

• Rout stopped grooves in posts.
• Cut curves in the posts on the
bandsaw, then sand curves smooth.
• Cut side rails to finished size. Cut the
2 drawer rails to finished width but
about 1" longer than finished length.
• Cut drawer fronts from drawer rails, and
mark adjacent parts with chalk to keep
grain continuous. Then cut drawer rails
to finished length, allowing 1⁄16" space
between drawers and drawer rails.
• Cut tongues in rails to fit
in post grooves.
• Build the inner frame, using biscuit
joints to join all 4 parts together.
Too many clamps? Once the inner frame is completed, the entire base can • Glue the base together.
be glued together. If you don’t have as many clamps as I do, you can simply • Move on to drawer construction.
glue the inner frame to one half of the post-and-rail assembly at a time.

Drawers get inset backs and locking rabbet joints
The drawer opening that extends through the base sides. Inset the drawer backs as shown, so that
allows for sides 81⁄2" long. (Confirm this clearance it’s not necessary to remove the drawer for full
by measuring your completed base.) See the article access to the stones. Since pulls would disrupt
that begins on p. 56 for details on creating the the sleek style of the base, each drawer has an
locking corner joint used to join drawer fronts to integral finger pull along the front’s bottom edge.
Drawer Construction Details

SIDE All side grooves are BACK
1
⁄2 × 13⁄4 × 81⁄2" 1
⁄4"W × 1⁄4"D 1
⁄2 × 13⁄4 × 71⁄2"
13⁄8"
1
⁄4" Groove for
bottom
⁄4"
1
2"
PLYWOOD BOTTOM
⁄4 × 61⁄2 × 71⁄2"
1
FRONT Rout finger Locking corner joint

3
⁄4 × 21⁄2 × 8" pull with 1⁄2" (See p. 56.)
R. cove bit.
⁄4"
1
Easy assembly.
Instead of sliding
the bottom
between the
drawer sides, this
drawer joinery
Groove the fronts. Make the first cut requires the
for the locking drawer joint with a bottom to be
1
⁄4"-wide dado cutter set 1⁄4" away from slid into place
the fence. Step-by-step instructions between the
on making this joint begin on p. 56. back and front.
Project photos: Jim Osborn Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 53

Make a grid routing jig, then put it to work
Since I don’t have a CNC machine in my shop, it was onto the cutter, push it forward until it hits the
necessary to figure out how to rout the front fence, then lift the board’s back edge up
19 × 19" grid into the top of a solid wood panel. off the cutter. Rotate the top 180 ° and repeat
I came up with a jig that clamps in place on my the process. After you have made the first 2
router table and relies on fences and 1"-wide cuts, fix a 1" spacer strip against the side fence
spacers to accurately position the board for and repeat the process. I use this technique to
a progression of stopped cuts. The routing rout all of the cross-grain cuts first, then repeat
procedure is simple: Place one edge of the board the procedure to rout with the grain, this time
against the back fence and the adjacent edge removing one strip at a time (instead of adding
against the side fence. Pivot the board down spacers) until all of the cuts have been made.
Base, bit and spacers. The base of the jig is clamped to the router table. This
photo shows all 9 spacers in place. Witness marks across the spacers ensure
that screws that secure spacers go in the correct holes in the jig. Screws are
necessary so that spacers don’t shift as the board moves against them.
SPACERS (9) BACK FENCE

3
⁄4 × 1 × 37 1⁄2"
40"
Clearance
hole for bit
19"
10"
SIDE FENCE PLYWOOD BASE

3
⁄4 × 1 × 40" ⁄2 × 13 ×40"
1
19"
Carbide straight
router bit 1⁄8" dia.
FRONT FENCE
Keys to success
• Dimension the jig and the board carefully. The jig is • Test your jig for accuracy. Cut a plywood blank
designed to work with a board exactly 21" square. that matches the board’s final dimensions, and
• Make sure your board is flat and smooth. complete a test run with your jig. You’ll be able
Gluing up the board from at least 3 narrower to perfect the “drop, rout, stop and lift” routing
boards is a good idea. Sand both faces technique. More importantly, you’ll find out if
smooth before you begin routing. the jig’s stops or spacers need any adjustment.
• Start with a new router bit. (See Buyer’s Guide, p. • Clear sawdust after every cut, so that it
66.) A sharp bit is critical for this routing work. doesn’t interfere with the jig’s accuracy.

Drop and rout. With the board edges registered against the jig’s side Lift, flip and repeat. When the board contacts the front fence,
and back fences, drop the board carefully onto the bit, then push lift the board’s back edge up off the bit. Then flip the board 180°
the board forward while maintaining contact with the side fence. and repeat the procedure to rout a mirror-image groove.
1st spacer Support

board
Insert spacers, one at a time. Screw the first spacer in Nearly done. With the last spacer in place, you’ll rout the outermost
place against the side fence, then rout two more grooves, grooves. Make sure to place a support board support on the
using the same drop, cut and lift technique. router table as shown, to keep the board level as you rout.
Apply finish, attach the top, and play!

I rounded the edges
of my top with an
oval bullnose bit.
Then I masked the top
with painter’s tape Figure-8 fasteners. Install a
so I could paint the fastener near the ends of the side
grid grooves. After rails. Use a Forstner bit to create
several coats of wiping a shallow hole in the top edge of
varnish (applied to the rail so that each fastener will
both sides), the top screw down flush. Then screw the
was ready to attach. fasteners to the top’s underside.

Make a Locking Drawer Joint
Ideal for small drawers, this joint is easy to make on the tablesaw
By Jim Probst
T here are many joinery options for drawers. Choosing

what’s right for a particular drawer project involves a
number of factors: appearance, durability, the equipment you
have available, and the number of drawers you need to make.
Dovetails will always be popular, of course. (See p. 40.)
But for the pair of drawers required for my Go gameboard
(p. 50), I decided to use a different type of interlocking joint
that I could cut quickly and precisely on my tablesaw.
A locking drawer joint provides a strong corner connection that
also looks attractive in many applications. There are specialized
router bits you can use to cut this type of joint on a router table, but the
technique I’ll demonstrate here only requires a stack dado and a zero-
clearance throat plate. The dimensions and setup details given are suitable
for drawers with 3⁄4"-thick fronts and 1⁄2"-thick sides, a combination that’s
fairly common. Make sure your drawer sides and fronts are milled to uniform
thicknesses before you begin. If you are using 1⁄2" plywood for drawer sides instead
of solid wood, use only high-quality, void-free material to ensure strong joints.
Rout bottom grooves first,

then get set to make 3 cuts
Start by planing drawer fronts 1st CUT: Make a 1⁄4"-wide 2nd CUT: Dado the side to
and sides to uniform thicknesses. groove in the end of drawer front. match the dimensions, and
Groove depth=Side thickness position of the inner tongue.
Prepare some scrap stock so you
can test your tablesaw setups.
You’ll also need to make a backer
block for your first cuts in the
drawer fronts, as shown on the
facing page. Attach a tall auxiliary
rip fence to your saw’s rip fence,
and make sure it’s perpendicular DRAWER SIDE
DRAWER FRONT
to the table surface. Then set ⁄4" thick
3 ⁄2" thick
1
up your stack dado. Use only

the two outer blades—with
shims inserted if necessary—to
create a dado width of 1⁄4".
Making the locking drawer joint
requires three cuts. But I suggest
grooving fronts and sides for
drawer bottoms before making any
corner joint cuts. This will make it 3rd CUT: Replace your dado cutter with
a finish-cutting blade. Trim the inner tongue
easy to keep track of the inside and to match the depth of the side dado.
outside faces of your drawer parts.
A fine way to cut corners. This locking corner joint combines
the strength of a mechanical connection with good surface
area for glue. Using contrasting wood species for
drawer fronts and sides shows off the
joint’s interlocked construction.
Slot the fronts first. Use a tall auxiliary fence and a

notched pushblock to keep the drawer front vertical, as
shown here. The pushblock will also prevent tearout. For
these slots, the dado is set to make a 1⁄4"-wide cut, and
cutting depth equals side thickness (1⁄2"). Position the
fence exactly 1⁄4" from the cutter, and make sure that the
outside face of the drawer front runs against the fence.
2 3
Rip fence and miter gauge guide the sides. After all drawer fronts Crosscut to create a tongue. To complete the corner
are slotted, change the dado’s cutting depth to 1⁄4", and keep the joint, replace the dado cutter with a finish-cutting
rip fence in the same position. Dado each side by running it against blade and trim the inner ends of each drawer front so
the miter gauge and rip fence. Use a backer block as shown. that the resulting tongues fit in the dadoed sides.
Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Illustration: Christopher Mills Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 57

Tricky
Tenoning Jig
This shop-made version has
features found on expensive
commercial models
By Tim Snyder
Clean cheeks. This sled-type jig rides in the

saw table slot. The clamped workpiece is
backed up by a sacrificial fence attached to a
clamp block. Turn the page for a closer look
at the jig’s features and how they work.
W hen it comes to making tenons on the

tablesaw, I’ve always preferred using a tenoning
jigs, I designed mine to ride in a table slot. Like
commercial jigs, it’s got plenty of flexibility. The
jig over removing waste with dado blades. A base slides on the sled and locks in place, enabling
tenoning jig yields cleaner cheek cuts with just you to adjust for workpieces and joints of different
two passes over the blade and a lot less sawdust. sizes. What makes this jig especially useful are
Many shop-made tenoning jigs are saddle-type the adjustable stops built into the sled (see photo
constructions designed to ride on a Biesemeyer- above). Riding in a pair of T-tracks, these flip
style rip fence. But I needed something different stops enable you to easily and accurately reset
for the tablesaw I’m currently using. Borrowing cuts—a big time-saver. The next two pages show
a feature from expensive commercial tenoning you how to make your own tricky tenoning jig.
Making the jig: Dado 1 board to make 2 mating parts
HANDLE CLAMP BLOCK TOGGLE CLAMP SACRIFICIAL FENCE

11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 31⁄2" (Adjust size based on
workpiece dimensions.)
Knob with
1
⁄4 -20 thread
Glue and screw
handle to brace
and base. Attach brace 31⁄4"
to base with
pocket screws.
BASE RUNNER Screw main fence

⁄2 × 3⁄4 × 81⁄4"
1
to base & braces.
3
⁄8" dia.
BRACE MAIN FENCE
3
⁄4 × 4 × 51⁄2" ⁄4 × 121⁄2 × 71⁄2"
3
21⁄2"
BASE
3
⁄4 × 121⁄2 × 51⁄2"
1
⁄4 -20
T-TRACK BOLT
SLED
3
⁄4 × 111⁄2 × 67⁄8"
2"
SPACER T-TRACK, 67⁄8" L

1
⁄4 × 3⁄4" 23⁄4"
(Adjust as
necessary)
Groove for base runner SLED RUNNER

3
⁄4"W × 1⁄4"D 3
⁄8 × 3⁄4 × 13"
NOTE: For T-track and other parts, Glue and screw base ADJUSTABLE
see the Buyer’s Guide (p. 66). runner to groove in base. FLIP STOP

There’s a trick to making 2 ⁄2" 1
this jig: By milling two Cut here to separate

grooves in a single board base from sled.
and then cutting the board
apart, you have a foolproof
way of keeping the jig’s base 51⁄2"
perfectly mated to the sled for Remove these strips to
accommodate T-track.
smooth and precise adjustments.
121⁄2"
Make hardwood runners that slide
smoothly but without slop in their
grooves. To provide clearance for the
flip stops to operate, it’s necessary to 121⁄2"
elevate the end T-tracks 1⁄4" above the 21⁄2"
table saw’s surface. I did this by gluing
4"-thick spacer strips to the underside
1⁄
of the sled. Alternatively, you could

simply glue 1⁄4" plywood to the sled’s Make the sled and base first. Start with a 121⁄2 × 121⁄2" piece of 3⁄4"
underside. Cut the sled runner for a hardwood plywood that’s perfectly square. Cut a pair of 3⁄4"-wide, 1⁄4"-
slop-free slide in the saw table slot, deep grooves, located 21⁄2" from opposite edges of the board. Then cut
and make sure it’s attached perfectly the board into separate sled and base parts. To complete these two parts,
parallel to the face of the main fence. you’ll need to groove the sled for its center T-track, and cut 1⁄2" from
both ends of the sled, where the outboard T-tracks will be attached.
Clamp, adjust, and cut

As shown at right, this jig can also
be used to cut slots for splined miter
joints or angled tenons. No matter
which type of joint you need to cut, the
setup procedure is the same. Begin by
screwing a guide block to the main fence
so that the workpiece will be positioned
correctly. The guide block can also serve
as the sacrificial fence, or a separate
sacrificial fence can be attached.
Make sure any screws driven into the
main fence will not come into contact
with the blade. Clamp the workpiece in
place on the jig, Then adjust the position
of the base on the sled to align the cut
line with the blade. Raise the blade to
the proper height, and set your flip stops
to align subsequent cuts, if necessary. More than tenons. The jig’s main fence is large enough
Now you’re ready to cut some joints. for you to attach angled guide blocks for cutting angled
tenons or spline slots for miter joints (shown here).
Photos: Randy O’Rourke; Illustration: Dan Thornton Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 61

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WoodSense
Spotlight on Olivewood
Add flavor to your next project with this rich and rare wood
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
A lthough better known for

its fruit and oil, the European
Olive tree (Olea europea) hides a
treasure under its gnarled bark: a
creamy sapwood that transforms due to the fruit’s economic
into deliciously striped, importance, healthy trees aren’t
sometimes marbled, heartwood. typically felled for lumber. (Even
Despite its hardness, the wood’s 500-year-old trees can still bear
tight grain and natural oil make fruit.) As a result, the wood is stock. Note that wide boards are
it friendly to turn and carve, rare, expensive, and hard to often actually East African Olive
and the sweet aroma from the acquire in large pieces because (Oleaceae hochstetteri), which is
sawdust may make you think orchard trees are generally kept a larger tree that is not known
you’re working in your kitchen. small to facilitate harvesting. for its fruit. Bandsawing gnarled
As you might expect, gorgeous trunks (see photo, below, right)
wood isn’t necessarily perfect. History in Woodworking to reveal the figure within can be
In addition to its high price, olive Olive is sometimes used for a thrilling and affordable means
challenges you with its inherent fine furniture and paneling, but of obtaining blanks and boards,
instability and high percentage because of the tree’s small size, but you’ll need to accept the
of defects, but the end result it is regarded as a novelty wood, likelihood that the piece hides
is worth the extra work. Read and is typically reserved for a few flaws, such as checks or
on to discover how to make smaller projects. Blocks of olive splits. Also note that air-dried
the most of this rare wood. wood harvested from Rome and
Bethlehem (and sold with labels
Olivewood Quick Take
Where the wood comes from of authenticity) are coveted by
This small evergreen tree some turners and carvers for DENSITY 62 lbs./ft3
is native to the southern their religious significance. HARDNESS Hard
Mediterranean, western Asia,
STABILITY Low
and northern Africa. It’s also How to select the best stock
found in California, where it Stock availability is generally ROT/INSECT Moderately resistant
RESISTANCE to rot, but little
was introduced by the Spanish limited to trimmings and termite resistance
in the 19th century. In some diseased or storm damaged
TEXTURE Fine
areas where the trees have orchard trees. Smaller blanks,
escaped orchard boundaries, suitable for making pens or TOXICITY Moderate
they’re considered invasive. knife scales, cost $3-5 apiece. Small turnings and
Olive is one most cultivated Lumber prices start at $26 per carvings, boxes,
USES utensils, cutting
trees in the world, surpassing board foot, and can exceed boards, bowls, musical
instruments, veneer
even the apple. However, $100 per board foot for figured
Sapwood
Heartwood
trimmings will need additional

time to acclimate. In comparison,
milled and kiln-dried boards are
more expensive, but they are
easier to inspect for defects, and
can be worked without the wait. Roman Olive
Olive’s most alluring figure can (straight grained)
make the wood difficult to work.
Branch, or highly figured burl because the hard wood holds
stock, is likely to have hidden scratches, do not skip grits. Be
checks or cracks that reveal especially mindful when power
themselves during the milling sanding because the wood
process. And because of olive’s may check if you let the disc or
inherent instability, figured wood belt heat the wood. Despite its
is more likely to crack over time. reputation as an oily wood, olive
glues up without difficulty.
Working olive in the shop The shavings and sawdust
Olive dries slowly, and tends to smell sweet, but may be Bethlehem Olive
(figured with checks)
warp, check, split, and honeycomb somewhat toxic. Although severe
if you try to rush it. However, reactions are uncommon, olive
turners frequently use wet has been reported as a sensitizer
wood to their advantage, as it’s and may irritate the eyes, skin,
easier to turn than when dry. and respiratory system. Also
When wet, you can expect long note that prolonged contact with
ribbon-like shavings to fly off olive shavings can leave blackish-
your tools, even when working blue stains on your hands and
irregular grain. Bagging a rough any steel they contact, so clean
turned block with its shavings things up after working with it.
can cut the drying time in half
compared to a solid blank. Finishing
Compared to other green-wood Olive accepts finishing
turnings, you should expect a oils and waxes
higher percentage of cracks as
the rough turned bowl acclimates
well, but the wood’s
natural oils may resist
Treasure-filled trunk
to ambient moisture levels. water-based finishes.
Well-seasoned olive is far more Sealing the wood
challenging. The wood’s hardness, with a shellac wash-
coupled with its interlocking, coat will eliminate
irregular grain will frustrate any compatibility
handsaws, chisels, and planes. problems. You can
You’ll have better luck with power use dyes to add color
tools, but expect a moderate and highlight figure, but
blunting effect on blades and bits. you may want to just leave the
Olive can be scraped and wood alone to become darker
sanded to a polished finish, but and richer naturally over time.
Photos: Ralph Lee Anderson Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 65
United States Postal Service Statement of Ownership,
Buyer’s Guide Management, and Circulation

1. Publication Title: Woodcraft 2. Publication Number: 024-953 3. Filing Date:
10/1/2016 4. Issue Frequency: Bi-Monthly: Dec/Jan, Feb/March, April/May, June/July,
Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 6 6. Annual Subscription
Price: $19.97 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: Woodcraft
Magazine 4420 Emerson Ave, Suite A Parkersburg, WV 26104 8. Complete Mailing
Dynamo Men Lamp (p. 21) 8. Freud Quadra-Cut Round-Over Bit Address of Publisher: Woodcraft Supply LLC P.O Box 1686 Parkersburg, WV 26102
9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher: Gary Lombard, 4420
1. Luxon 6w G80 LED Glove Bulb with Mirror, 1
⁄4" R, 1⁄4" SH #828708, $35.47 Emerson Ave, Suite A Parkersburg, WV 26104; Editor-in-Chief: Tim Snyder, 4420
Emerson Ave, Suite A Parkersburg, WV 26104 10. Owner: Woodcraft Supply, LLC
Half Chrome Silver amazon.com, $17.99 9. Freud Quadra-Cut Round-Over Bit P.O. Box 1686 Parkersburg, WV 26102 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and
Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of
2. Lamp Hardware Kit johnwhutchinson.com, $42.50 3
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and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt status for federal income
10. Whiteside 45° Chamfer Bit, tax purposes: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months 13. Publication Title:
Woodcraft Magazine 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: A/S 16
Get a Smart Start in 1" LD, 5⁄16" CL, 1⁄4" SH #149227, $27.99 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation
Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months:
Woodturning (p. 26) 11. Fisch Multi-Funtion Wave Cutter a. Total Number of Copies (Net press run): 109,917
b. Paid Circulation (By Mail and Outside the Mail)
1. Adjustable Face Shield #150706, $23.99 Forstner Bit, 11⁄16" #160383, $39.99 (1) Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on
PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate,
2. RIKON Mini Lathe 12. General Finishes Butcher Block Oil, advertiser’s proof copies, and exchange copies): 90,787
(2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS
Model 70-100 #832637, $399.99 pint #124024, $10.99 Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate,
advertiser’s proof copies, and exchange copies): 0
3. WoodRiver Bowl Gouge 1⁄2" #146174, $64.50 13. Howard Butcher Block Conditioner, (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers
and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other
4. WoodRiver Spindle Gouge 1⁄2" #145905, $46.50 12oz. #154382, $8.99 Paid Distribution Outside USPS: 4,562
(4) Paid Circulation by Other Classes Mailed Through
5. WoodRiver Roughing Gouge 3⁄4" #146225, $57.99 14. Tried & True Original Wood Finish, the USPS (e.g. First-Class Mail): 0
c. Total Paid Distribution [Sum of 15b. (1) (2), (3), and (4)]: 95,349
6. WoodRiver Diamond Parting Tool 1⁄8" pint #126854, $21.99 d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (By Mail and Outside the Mail)
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Classes Through the USPS (e.g. First-Class Mail): 0
#146229, $44.99 16. Double-Faced Turning Tape, (4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail
(Carriers of other means): 1,423
8. WoodRiver Oval Skew 1" #145907, $51.99 2" × 36 yds. #15D26, $49.50 e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution
(Sum of 15 (1), (2), (3), and (4)): 3,923
9. WoodRiver 4-jaw Lathe Chuck #146796, $99.99 17. Whiteside Over-Under Flush Trim Bit, f. Total Distribution (Sum of 15c. And 15e.): 99,271
g. Copies not Distributed: 10,645
10. Oneway Wolverine Grinding Jig #125676, $89.99 7
⁄8" D, 11⁄2" CL, 1⁄2" SH #149528, $36.49 h. Total (Sum of 15f. And 15g.): 109,917
i. Percent Paid (15c. Divided by 15f. times 100) 96.0%
11. Oneway Wolverine Vari-grind 2 18. Cutting Board Template Rectangle No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date
a. Total Number of Copies (Net press run): 98,399
(jig only) #843655, $74.99 w/Juice Groove, 151⁄2" × 101⁄2" #159047, $9.99 b. Paid Circulation (By Mail and Outside the Mail)
(1) Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated
12. Groz Outside Caliper 8" #141595, $29.99 19. Cutting Board Template, Puzzle Piece, on PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate,
advertiser’s proof copies, and exchange copies): 80,499
121⁄2" × 111⁄2" #159046, $7.99 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541
Compact Lathe Stand (p. 32) 20. Cutting Board Template, Bread Board, (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s
proof copies, and exchange copies): 0
1. HIGHPOINT 3M01 Full-Extension Side Mount 151⁄2" × 51⁄2" #158912, $8.98 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers
and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid
Distribution Outside USPS: 4,959
Drawer Slide 12" (pair) #160240, $16.50 21. Chobs Cutting Board Feet, (4) Paid Circulation by Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS
2. WoodRiver 21⁄2" Double-locking Caster, 4-pc., Red/Green #158830, $11.99 (e.g. First-Class Mail):
c. Total Paid Distribution [Sum of 15b. (1) (2), (3), and (4)]:
0
85,458
Swivel Plate, 33⁄8" tall (4 req.) #152838, $13.99 d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (By Mail and Outside the Mail)
(1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside County
GO for the Game (p. 50) Copies included on PS Form 3541:
(2) Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 0
0
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Classes Through the USPS (e.g. First-Class Mail): 0
1. DB Colonial Candles (Handcrafted 8" × 5⁄8" Bore #127245, $99.97 (4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail
(Carriers of other means): 1,370
spice-scented candles) dbcolonialcandles.com 2. Whiteside SC09 Straight Router Bit, Double Flute e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution
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86,828
11,571
Cut-Above Cutting Boards (p. 46) 3. Figure-8 Fastener h. Total (Sum of 15f. And 15g.):
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98,399
98.4%
1. Titebond III Waterproof Glue, 16 oz. #145562, $9.50 (pack of 10) #159303, $4.49 16. Electronic Copy Circulation
Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months
2. Bosch Colt PR20EVSK, 4. Whiteside 1480 Oval Edge (Half Bull Nose) Bit, a. Paid Electronic Copies: 0
b. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) +
1 HP VS Palm Router #831838, $119.99 11⁄4" CL, 1⁄2" SH #819416, $65.99 Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a): 95,349
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3. Festool ETS 125/3 d. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies)
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EQ Brushless Sander #571897, $385.00 Tricky Tenoning Jig (p. 59) Average No. of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date
a. Paid Electronic Copies: 0
4. 2" Sanding Mop, 180 Grit amazon.com, $24.95 1. WoodRiver 24" b. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) +
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d. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies)
w/Adjustable Mouth #151125, $99.99 2. Woodpeckers Single Molded Flip Stop (16b divided by 16c X 100) 98.4%
17. Publication of Statement of Ownership:
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18. Signature and Title of, Publisher: Gary Lombard, 4420 Emerson Ave, Suite A
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this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or
5" long, .60mm Thick #02Z09, $10.99 1
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and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).
Unless otherwise listed, items above available at Woodcraft stores, at woodcraft.com,

or by calling (800) 225-1153. Prices subject to change without notice.

The Market

DIMENSIONAL LUMBER,
COUNTERTOPS,
VENEERS, PLYWOOD
ADVERTISE IN
The Market
Contact: Vic Lombard
at (304) 865-5262
or e-mail at:
Vic_Lombard@woodcraftmagazine.com
30 issues packed with projects

and detailed instructions on
how to build them.
Plus...
Volume
Issue 32-61 2 • Techniques
• Tool reviews
• Jigs & fixtures
• Workshop projects
• Tips
To order product #161370 visit www.woodcraft.com or visit your local Woodcraft store.

Christmas Crossword
Woodn’t You Know It
Across Down
3. Picture, this in wood 1. Twice the distance between
8. Molding profile based on a sigmoid curve a drive center and bed
9. Furniture style that’s a real mover? 2. Radially cut
10. Warp along the edge of a board 4. Popular ukulele wood
11. Common bit for routing blind mortises 5. Attractive top treatment
14. Construction designed to 6. Square name for a lock
accommodate wood movement 7. Saw name that means “tenon”
15. Final sharpening step, sometimes 9. Screw head patented in 1909 by P.L. Robertson
16. Shop helpers 12. Pretty decay
18. An English joint; an American discount 13. Common term for cyanoacrylate
19. Common sawtooth configuration 17. Super-fine filter
Click for the solution. Go to the woodcraftmagazine.com and select the onlineEXTRAS for this issue.
72 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017 Created with the Crossword Puzzle Generator on TheTeachersCorner.net

Woodcraft Magazine - Issue #074 - Dec, .Jan 2017 - Build This Beautifull Flat Pack Tree

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Holiday special!

Great gifts to make & give

Projects, Techniques, and Products

Photos: Doug Rowan Aug/Sept 2009 woodcraftmagazine.com 21

French Door Premier Adjustable Entry & Interior

Item #98-318 Item #99-762 Item #98-300

UNLEASH YOUR CREATIVITY WITH

21 Dynamo Men Lamp

be so much fun? Flip the switch and

2 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017 Cover photo: Morehead Photography

Contents: Tools & Techniques • Let the good times roll

14 Profiles: Nick Offerman

26 Get a Smart Start

A Vietnam War veteran, Jim Osborn

Having a 6" rule tattooed on your

6 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

Contact us: Canada Post: Publications Mail Agreement #40612608

8 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

10 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

Let the good times roll

Thanks for the “Toy Trucks from 2×4s” story

—Bob Redinger, Kalispell, Montana

A s a character on the popular sitcom Parks

NO: I have an incredible amount

16 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

Illustrations: Christopher Mills Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 17

18 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 19

PLATFORM Machine screw

22 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

Illustrations: Trevor Johnston Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 23

Make & install the workers 1" ball knob

If you’ve created the gears for a smooth-running WASHER

Let’s get cranking. I cut threads in Use toothpicks to

Take a stand. I center each worker about 5⁄8" in from the

24 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

⁄32" pivot holes

Safety gear. Instead of

26 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

A full-sized lathe requires a fair amount

Check the alignment. Run this quality

Shop-made support. Factory-made

Super shaper. Though tricky to use at

28 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

and a 1⁄2 " bowl gouge

look similar, they aren’t

interchangeable. Their flutes

cutting ends are ground with

different bevel angles. To make

Great gripper. The jaws on a

Dec/Jan 2017 woodcraftmagazine.com 29

More woodturning info

30 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017

BACK ADJUSTABLE SHELF DIVIDER

Rout cove for finger ⁄2" rabbet,

pull along bottom ⁄2" deep

edge of drawer front.

I n many homes, the Holiday Season includes an evergreen tree that

Keyhole Detail Sheet Cutting Layout

Small blade, small curves. With all

Saw out the profile. Prop the

Not too tight. Install the post screws,

Twist to lock, and top it off.

38 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2017