Mapua University

Machine Guide
(Three- Piece Pattern)
Shop Exercise # 5

Mejia, Lance Joseph F. Date Performed : December 19, 2018

2013108319 Date Submitted : January 16, 2019

Engr. RJ Lawrence Tiu

Instructor
 Objectives
1. To familiarize the students with the different hand tools and uses.
2. To be able to make a three-piece pattern.

List of Materials
1. Kiln dry lumber- is often used for furniture, cabinets, and flooring.
• 1 piece of 1 3/8”x1 3/8”x2 5/8” kiln dry lumber
• 1 piece of 2 ½”x2 ½”x9/16” kiln dry lumber
• 1 piece of 5/8”x5/8”x5/8” kiln dry lumber

2. Wood Glue- is an adhesive that woodworkers, carpenters and

hobbyists trust for their woodworking projects.
3. Files – these are the tools used for shaping and forming the wooden
piece into the desired shape and edge with particular smoothing.

4. Try Square – these tool is used to measure in inches and in pieces of

wood especially in woodworking and this tool is also accurate in
measuring an angle or 90 degrees .

5. Back Saw- The type of saw used to make straight cuts and basically
contain a metal stiffening rib on top to provide precise cuts.
6. Compass Saw- This particular type of saw is used to make precise and
small cuts , in this particular experiment we used this after drilling the
hole on the inside part of the wood in order to cut and form the hole.

7. Sand Paper- We used this tool or material to have a smooth and fine
finish on the wood in the experiment.

1
8. 1 piece solid wood (5’’ x 12’’ x1’’)- This material is the main object in
our experiment and it is the one to be modified to form the desired
specifications that the instructor has given to us.
9. Woodworking Vise- a vise with jaws that are padded in order to hold
lumber without denting it.

10. Carpenter’s Pencil- are premium quality wood-cased pencils ideal

for marking wood, concrete, and other surfaces.
11. Drafting Template (Circular)- are used for drawing text, including digits and letter characters

12. Drawing Compass- is a drawing tool that can be used to draw circles or arcs.

13. Drill Press (Bit Size: 1/16”)- is used to cut holes into or through metal, wood, or other
materials.
 Procedures
1. Prepare 1 piece of 1 3/8”x1 3/8”x2 5/8” kiln dried wood for the body.
2. Prepare 1 piece of 2 ½”x2 ½”x9/16” kiln dried wood for the base.
3. For the body:
4. Square of the 1 3/8”x1 3/8”x2” kiln dried wood make sure that it has an exact dimension.
5. On the top part of the body which is a square and has a measurement of 1 3/8”x1 3/8”,
draw a smaller square that has a measurement of 1"x1", this will be your guide in tapering
the wood.

6. Use a file to taper the body by following the marking that you made.
7. If you done it right it should look like a truncated trapezoid. Set this aside for later.
8. For the base:
9. Square of the 2 ½”x2 ½”x9/16” kiln dried wood make sure that it has an exact dimension.
10. Draw a ½”x½” square on each corner of the larger square. The middle part should have a
¼”x¼” square.
11. Draw a grid on the 1 3/8”x1 3/8”, the grid would make it easier when the chisel is used
later on.
12. On the front view of the base, in which you will see the height of the base 9/16”, find the
¼” height. Draw a line in that mark, in which it will be perpendicular with the height and
parallel with the length of the wood. Draw on the 3 sides of the wood.
13. The lines must be connected with each sides if you done it right.
14. Clamp the wood in a bench vise parallel to the floor. The gridlines that you have made must
be facing upward.
15. With the use of a back saw, cut the wood by following the gridlines that is drawn and stop
at the halfway mark which is the line drawn on the side of the base.
16. Cut the gridlines in the wood as straight as possible.

17. Remove the wood from the bench vise and clamp it perpendicular to the floor.
18. Make sure the 2 largest surface area of the wood was being clamp and not the sides of the
wood.
19. With the use of a chisel and a mallet remove the individual square that has been form when
the wood was cut. Make sure not to remove the four squares on the four corners of the
wood marked earlier.
20. When using the chisel point the sharp end perpendicular to the floor and parallel to the
wood.
21. Remove the pieces little by little and take your time.
22. As much as possible get the sharp end of the chisel on the wood as close as possible at the
halfway mark in where you stop sawing, so you will have less work to do when filling the
base.
23. Use a flat file to flatten the part that was chiseled. Make sure that it is flat.
24. Remove the wood from the bench vise and check the base. When you look the wood from
the top, only the four grid on the corners was left and the remaining wood beside and
throughout the middle was gone.
25. When you look on the front view, it should look like the middle part and all the way up was
gone and the corner was still there.
26. On the four corners of the gridlines which has a measurement of ½”x½”, draw a square
inside that has a measurement of ¼”x¼”. This will be your guide in tapering.
27. Use a flat file to taper the squares in each side and taper the side of the base by following
the taper that was form in the square.
28. Set the base aside to make the core prints.
29. For the core prints:
30. On the top view of the wood provided, draw 2 identical squares that has a measurement
of 5/8”x5/8”x5/8”.
31. Cut this 2 pieces of wood.
32. After you cut it you must have 2 pieces of 5/8”x5/8”x5/8” wood.
33. On the top part of the 1st piece, draw a smaller square on both piece that has a
measurement of ½”x½”, this will be your guide in tapering the core print.
34. Use a file to taper the 2 core prints.
35. On the 2nd piece of core print, find the center of the square in the bottom part that has a
measurement of ½”x½” and then mark it.
36. Use a drill press (drill bit size: 1/16") to drill a hole on the center of the square. Only drill it
halfway on the wood.
37. Combining the body, base, and the core prints.
38. Prepare 1-piece pin or dowel with measurement of 1" and has a diameter of 1/16".
39. On the bottom part of the base find the center and then mark it. Do the same thing for the
body, find the center on the bottom part and mark it.
40. With the use of the drill press (drill bit size: 1/16") drill a hole on the center mark that was
made in the bottom part of the base.

41. Repeat the drilling process in the bottom of the body but only drill it 1/4" deep.
42. Do a dry fit with the pin, place the pin on the hole that was made in the body and then
through the base and then through the 2nd core print.
43. The body, base, and the 2nd core print should align. Remove the body, base, and the 2nd
core print from the pin.
44. Use a sandpaper (grit size: 100) to smooth out the 1st core print, the body, base, and the
2nd core print.
45. With the use of wood glue combine the bottom part of the body and the top part of the
base and keep the holes align with each other. Make sure that it is centered and the sides
of the body and the base are parallel.
46. Glue the top part of the body to the bottom part of the 1st core print. Make sure that it is
centered and the sides of the body the 1st core print are parallel. Glue the pin on the hole
of the 2nd core print.
47. Let the glued pieces dry and clamp it on the bench vise if needed.
48. If you done it right the pieces should be in this following order; 1st core print, body, base,
and the 2nd core print with pin should slide easily on the hole that was made on the bottom
of the base.
Use sandpaper (grit size:1000) to smoothen out further the final piece.
 Final product

Topic Questions & Answers

1. Why should you give an extra attention in cutting the end grain?

End grain is the grain of wood seen when it is cut across the growth rings.
Rather than cutting a plank of wood the length of the trunk, end grain wood is
actually cut at a 90-degree angle to the grain. This type of cut exposes the
character of the wood rings and graining. Many wood lovers relish the results: a
cross-grain which pleases the eyes and the wallets. Put simply, end grain cuts
produce highlyaesthetic wood with character, color, and durability.

2. Taper means what?

Diminish or reduce in thickness towards one end.

3. What is a kerf?

Kerf is a cut or incision made by a saw or the like in a piece of wood.

4. What is an adhesive?

Adhesive is an adhesive substance (such as glue or cement).

5. What is the use of gouges and chisels?

Chisels and gouges are among the most ancient tools used to shape wood,
and their basic forms have remained the same for thousands of years. Chisels and
gouges shape parts and cut joints more precisely than axes or adzes, and they
made cuts that were impractical or impossible to make with saws, planes, spoke
shaves, or drawknives during colonial times.

6. What is the method called enlarging with squares?

Sometimes you have the perfect image to draw or paint but it's too small.
An easy way to transfer the image to your drawing paper or canvas and increase
its size to what you want, you can use a grid. In this tutorial, I'm going to show
you two easy ways to blow up an image and get it ready for the final art making
process.

7. To buy, a back saw what specification is needed?

A backsaw is a specialized handsaw for cutting tenons (joints or grooves) in

wood. The blade is rectangular, 8 to 14 inches in length, with a hardwood or
plastic handle and a metal-reinforced back edge (opposite the teeth) to keep the
blade from bending while cutting. There are 11 to 20 teeth, or points, per inch.
Backsaws are used to cut across the wood grain similar to the larger and more
flexible crosscut saw.

8. Which is more practical to use a plane or a file in smoothening the edges of this
project?

Microplane rasps cut a lot faster and don't clog with swarf. They tend to
leave a somewhat rough surface. I use them extensively for shaping but always
 follow up with a scraper or sandpaper to smooth the surface. They work equally
well on face grain and end grain.

9. When buying a claw hammer what specification is needed?

Claw hammers are commonly used for everyday purposes and for
construction projects. These types of hammers weigh anywhere from 7 to 32 oz.
The weight is derived from the head of the hammer only. The handle of a claw
hammer is made from either wood, fiberglass or steel. If a claw hammer is laid
down, it resembles the letter "T." The handle is the long part of the "T," while the
top line of the "T" is the hammer's head.

10. If the design is the same on both ends what pattern do you use?

Split Pattern. These patterns are split along the parting plane (which may
be flat or irregular surface) to facilitate the extraction of the pattern out of the
mould before the pouring operation. For a more complex casting, the pattern may
be split in more than two parts.

Conclusion

In this experiment, we were tasked to create a machine guide on a kiln dry

lumber. The objectives of the shop exercise are met since we were able to create a
machine guide and be able to know its use. In addition, we were also able to get to
know more the use of the basic woodworking hand tools.
After performing the experiment, we were able to create a piping elbow. We had
a problem because the output that we have is not as expected. The base of our
output is not as smooth as it must be so we made adjustments and be able to make
cover things up since we gone deep upon the use of chisel. Proper use and stroking of
the tools are necessary to perfect this part. Still, we were able to make a replica of a
machine guide even though we didn’t make it perfect. But we know with a little
practice on the hand tools, next time we did another replica of something we would
ensure that we can perfect it.
Also, we recommend that within the work of the shop exercise be cautious since
a slight mistake would make the shop exercise output be greatly different with the
expected one. Working with different tools and equipment must be used with safety
 since it can cause injuries to users when not used properly. Safety of one’s well-being
is a priority when performing such tasks.

CAD Drawings
1. Mechanical Drawing

2. AutoCAD Drawing