Lost Soles?

Figure 1: Photograph of left shoe, c1914

Figure 2: Bootmaker 1926

Melbourne’s Boot and Shoe Figure 3

Page 1
Manufacturing Industry
 Russell Spencer Student No:17989541
seen the accused , Herbert
Jenner , aged 22 , chase Mr
The Shooter Sherry around the back of his
stationary car and after a
struggle , shoot Sherry in the
I n December 1938 William
Bunge a fourteen year old
boy appeared in court as a
chest.5 The bandits stole
around £130 in silver coins
and escaped from a driver who
witness to a payroll theft and 2019

murder. This occurred on the chased them.6

afternoon of 1 September 1938 and involved Frederick
William Sherry , aged 46, shoe manufacturer .1 The Jenner’s accomplice Selwyn Wallace, aged 23, was
weather on the day of the murder was a cool 18ºC arrested in Melbourne six days later and Jenner
with early showers.2 The robbery took place when was tracked down to Sydney and arrested on 29
Sherry and his co-director William Thomas were on September 1938.7 They
their way back from a bank in Northcote to the shoe were tried in Melbourne
factory in Clifton Hill. The payroll was around £650.3 in December and both
When Sherry realised what was happening he
removed the bank notes from the bag and stuffed
them into Thomas’s pockets .4 Perhaps he was nervous
Page but
1 the 14 year old Bunge gave evidence that he had Figure 5: Photograph of Herbert
Jenner 1938
 found guilty of murder.8 The judge duly noted the
jury’s recommendation for leniency, in light of
the accused’s ages, but sentenced them both to
hang.9

A subsequent appeal against this sentence was

denied.10 The jury’s request for leniency was not
unheeded; the State Executive Council commuted
the sentences to life in prison without remission
or the benefit of gaol regulations.11 Mr Sherry was
William and Thomas Kidney arrived in Melbourne from Muirkirk, Scotland,
buried at Heidelberg Cemetery on 3 September 1938, on the ship ‘North Atlantic’ in April 1853 and set up this shop in 1861 in
with over 500 mourners attending his funeral.12 Smith Street, Collingwood. In 1874 William Kidney was elected Mayor of
Collingwood and the reserve in Rushall Cresent, Fitzroy North is named
after Thomas Kidney

Rising and Falling complementing a specific 1968 comparative study

of the industry’s locations in Melbourne and the city's

W
industrialisation. 13 By 1861 there
hile murders are rare events, 'Lost Soles' tells were already around 301 shoe shops; these were largely
a broader story about Melbourne's Boot and Shoe bespoke boot makers with up to twenty employees.14
Page Manufacturing
31 Industry. It deals with the working
The industry lasted around 130 years until imports
conditions of the industry and some lighter matters,
 overtook local manufactures followed by the removal
of tariffs in the 1990s. Machines gradually
replaced manual production.
For example, a machine to attach soles of boots to
uppers was demonstrated in London in 1862 and a
similar machine first used in Melbourne

in 1891.15 Previously, soles and uppers were manually

sewn together using waxed thread or by riveting the
soles to the uppers. In 10 hours a bootmaker could
produce two pairs of boots using thread or 18 pairs
using rivets. In the same time, a machine produced up
to 100 pairs of boots .16 The industry grew strongly in
the early years , by 1866 - 67 there were 3 factories ,
rising to 29 in 1871 -72, employing 1 ,471 people and
more than doubling to 67 factories by 1876-77.17 The
height of employment
Page 1 was in the 1960s when there were 11,799 employees Pageof4
which 7016 were women.18
 Tariffs for Teenagers people were returning from the goldfields as gold
petered out and 2500-3000 people were employed in

A s early as 1859 Boot and Shoe Makers in Melbourne boot making.22 The following year shoemakers held a
were agitating for tariffs on imported footwear, meeting to consider tariffs and Richard Barry proposed
citing tariffs already that: “The duty imposed on imported boots and shoes
in place for trades of should be at least 15%”.23 He opined that there were still
masons and bakers.19 It experienced boot makers on the diggings earning very
was argued that other little . They wanted to return to their trade and that : “
countries protected Their (Melbourne ) streets were crowded with juveniles
their manufactures and naturally smart, and far more precocious than the same
that Victoria should class in the old country ”, and they could be trained to
do likewise to provide become productive citizens .24 Tariff protection for boot
work for its youth.20 The and shoe imports was introduced into Victoria in 1867
Association urged that and increased in 1871 . 25 By 1870 the industry was
free entry be restricted celebrating this success saying that prior to the 11%
to products Victoria tariff, there were three large boot makers in Melbourne.
didn’t produce for itself These employed less than 400 people whereas by 1870
such as tea, coffee and there were seven or eight factories employing between
tobacco.21 By 1864 Figure 8: Daily News Perth, 1000 and 1200 people of all ages . 26 Not all agreed ,
Page 51 W.A June 1912 factory owner Mr F Castilla, an exponent of free trade,
 believed that the industry did not need protection and
that his company was going well without it.27 NSW
did not introduce tariffs and by the 1890 s its boot
industry was of equal size to Victoria.28 By the late
1960 s Victoria was producing 39.6 million shoes per
annum .29 However , even before then, manufacturers
were suggesting substantial increases in tariffs to
protect Australia against Asian imports . In 1966 Mr F
Harkins the sole agent for Chinese shoe imports argued
that the footwear industry problems were not caused by
Chinese imports because they represented only 1.15%
of the market, this argument was rejected.30 In 1971 the
Australian Boot Trade Employees Federation said that
only sweeping import changes could prevent the
Australian footwear industry from disaster . 31 The
severe problem was addressed in 1977 when the
government again raised tariffs and introduced
Page 61
quotas as part of a three year program to aid the
clothing, textile and footwear industries.32 The
aim was to maintain the jobs of 120,000 people until
the mid-eighties.33 A subsequent report by the Bureau
of Industry Economics in 1983 recommended that the
footwear industry update its technology to compete
against imports.34 It also doubted that employment
for the 13,000 persons could be sustained.35 The last
straw was the Labour Government’s announcement in
1991 that it would reduce tariffs protecting the textiles,
clothing and footwear industry by a half or two thirds
by 1996.36
Odd Shoes
Figure 9: Military Boots c1939-1945
 I t was decided very early on, in 1849, that Kangaroo
skin were not generally good enough for shoe
leather , it being too porous .37 In 1915 the Marshall
highlighted by the six foot shoe.39 Two slightly earlier
curiosities were a floating shoe and a shoe sold with
Shoe Co. received an order from the Russian for four different coloured removable uppers so that a
Government f Melbourne re woman could change the shoe colour to match her
400 ,000 pairs of boots clothes.40
and in the Second
World War one local
manufacturer made up
for the shortage of
leather by making
wooden clogs.38 The
late forties and early
fifties were one of the
halcyon periods of
footwear manufacturing
Figure 11:The Week,
and in 1953 Melbourne Brisbane, Qld 19 March
held a Shoe Fair to 1915
show off its products,

Figure 10: World’s News, Sydney, NSW

Page 1 Page 7
7 November 1953.
Figure 12: Billboard Advertising c1925
 Sweating cheap unskilled labour
making a profit from their

A major industry
issue that bubbled
along from the 1890s
work .42 Factory owners
sometimes paid the correct
rate to sub - contractors but
until the late 1930s was sometimes not.
“ Sweating ”. This
involved a factory owner One such instance involved
sub contracting ‘ a boot manufacturer called
finishing work ’ so that Zemancheff and Sons Pty
a man , his wife and Ltd makers of ‘ Basket
children completed the Shoes ’. This company was
work at home for less located at 163 Napier
money than factory Street , South Melbourne .43
workers . Often the One of two women , Sheila
Figure 13: Photograph of V.G. family worked into the
Zemancheff & Sons Pty Ltd 1931 Smith aged 15 , had worked
night as long at the Zemancheff factory
as it could keep awake .41Alternatively the work
until January 1933.44
was sub-contracted to somebody who employed
Page 8
1 Figure 14: The Age, Melbourne
3 August 1933
 Since then she had been given work at home on piece He went to say that “these Southern Europeans ”
rates where she was ‘lizarding ’ shoes.45 Mr M G want to make enormous profits.52
Zemancheff denied this but his son George
initially admitted it saying that it was without his
father’s knowledge.46The correct salary for the
work was £4/1/9 per week , Sheila Smith was paid 1
shilling per pair and in a full week she could finish 20
pairs of shoes giving her a salary of £1 per week .47 The
second woman , Thelma Lewton lived next door to the
factory and was sacked by Zemancheff but immediately
afterwards worked for them from home 48. Initially the
shoes were delivered by the two sons but later a hole
was made in the factory wall and the shoes passed
through it.49Zemancheff’s was fined
£18, costs of £5/5/0 and arrears of £25.50 A few days
later , Mr W Dempster , Secretary of the Victorian
Labour Department said that “the recent prosecutions
Figure 15: Mrs Zemancheff and Friends,
against the Bulgarians for sweating ” resulted from Melbourne, 1936
complaints received from other Boot Manufacturers
Page 9
1
upset by the "unfair competition". 51
Sole Sisters

W omen accounted for

188 out of a total of
1471 employees in boot
representing 51 % of the
workforce in boot and
shoe manufacturing.56
and shoe manufacturing
in Victoria in 1871.53 By
1890, in Sydney at least,
women formed a branch Turning back the clock,
of the Boot Trades Union by February 1911 the
indicating that the number effect of women being in
of females in the industry the industry was noticed
was growing.54 Victoria and ‘trouble’ was said
had 60% more employees Figure 16 to be brewing, men
in the industry than NSW were receiving wages
suggesting around 950 of £2/14/0 per week
female employees in Victoria . 55 Women ’ s compared to females at £1/1/0.57 Six days later there
employment rose steadily until the 1950 s, with was a meeting of manufacturers because the Wages
hiccups caused by economic circumstances and the Board had permitted “girls ’ to operate the 'Fortuna
two World Wars. In 1959 there were 5,769 women Skiving Machine'. Page 10
 This was considered “men’s work”.58 A for working skiving machines.62 The union
skiving machine pares leather. argued before Judge Heydon that in the
The manufacturers anticipated strikes past that ‘uppers’ had been “women’s
against employers using women to work” and that ‘soles’ had been
operate the machines.59 However, from “men’s work”.63 The skiving machine
an employer’s perspective it must had simplified this and employers
have been financially attractive to pay were in favour of allowing women to
females less than half for the same do the work . In July 1911 Judge
work . Sydney manufacturers argued Heydon supported the Wages Board
that it did not breach the award but saying that skiving machines could
the Wages Board was requested to be worked by 16 year old girls . 64
review the decision.60 By April 1911 Over 100 years ago, in the boot and
the Union argued against women shoe industry at least, women were “
earning male rates predicting serious visible as active participants . 65 In
industrial unrest following a 1920 the boot maker ’s award was
decision by the State Industrial amended to give women with four
tribunal.61 Subsequently there years’ experience, £2/14/0 per week,
was an appeal to the Industrial Court to the same wage as men.66
disallow women being paid the same wage
Figure 17:Photograph of his Honour Judge Charles Gilbert Haydon, c1909
Page 11
1
Page 12
1 Figure 18: Photograph of a group of women and a young boy outside the Gould & Porter Shoe Factory, c1925
 Lost Skills and Language

T he loss of the industry has meant loss of skills

and also the loss of the language of those skills.
For example, some of the boot manufactures tanned
their own leather following which a currier dressed ,
coloured and finished it ready for boot making .67 ‘
Clickers’ was a well-known term and referred to those
men who cut the soles and uppers to the
correct size and shape . 68 The term
clickers is said to come from the noise
they made undertaking this work. A ‘last’
was a foot shape made of wood or metal
on which the soles and uppers were
mounted to join them together. A ‘Laster
’ was the person who fitted the parts of
the shoes to the ‘last’.69 Then there were ‘
Bottomers ’ or ‘Closers ’, who joined the
uppers to the soles .70 Soles were either
one layer of leather or two. ‘Lizarding ’
Figure 19: Photograph of Clicking Room at Whybrows Shoe Factory, Collingwood, 1920 appears to be the art of putting leather
decoration on shoes.71
Page 13
1
 Legacy

T he imprint of boot factories on suburban

space was exemplified by a factory in
Glasshouse Road, Collinwood.72 The site
covered almost a hectare and contained
not only a factory but a tannery of seventy
pits and drying sheds.73 The Boot and Shoe
industry was predominately centred on Fitzroy
and Collingwood. The writer Alan Marshall
describes what it was like there in the late
1920s:

Figure 20: Photograph of Shoe Manufacturer, Abbotsford, c1940

Page 14
1
 “They would talk and laugh when a transformed street saw
them surging homewards in the evening. Now (the morning
before) they must hurry – girls with unbuttoned coats,
the sides floating out-spread, with hair still tossed from
pillows, running girls with anxious faces”.74 This is still a
familiar scene in these suburbs . A legacy of the Boot and
Shoe Industry ; old factories now renovated , refreshed and
renewed as apartments , offices and other businesses
together with the workers’ cottages. Not that they were the
only shoe industry suburbs but they were the biggest until
the drift outwards in the forties and fifties.75
Figure 21: Map of Fitzroy, 1921
Reminiscent of a Marshall’s period of frenetic activity,
Fitzroy and Collingwood are now inhabited by ‘Hipsters’
and any Friday or Saturday night these suburbs are abuzz
with people dropping into pubs, bars or restaurants.

Page 1
Figure 22: Photograph of Fitzroy 2019
 Figure 23: Photograph of Collingwood c1870-1880 Figure 25: Photograph of British United Shoe
Machinery Company, Fitzroy, 1948

Figure 24: Photograph of Fitzroy c1870-1880 Figure 26: Photograph of above Building 2019
Page 16
1
The End
 Acknowledgements

I wish to thank Geoff Palmer for his assistance with the graphic design of this essay and Roland Burke for guiding me
through the labyrinth of Wordpress, both very much appreciated.

References

1 Author Unknown, ‘Boy’s Evidence Clifton Hill Hold-up “Man in raincot shot Sherry” ‘, Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners’
Advocate (NSW), Wednesday , 30 November 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper /rendition/nla.news-article 132840395 .3.
html?followup=9dd175477e9d6b553d9a87cdf08cc036>.

2 Author Unknown, ‘Weather Chart and Forecasts’, Argus (Melbourne), Thursday, 1 September 1938 <https://trove.nla. gov.au/
newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article12481249.3.html?followup=b2e7016b83bd6073a969f5727b0fc09d>.

3 Author Unknown, ‘Payroll Robbery’, Daily Telegraph (Sydney), Saturday, 3 December 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article247441978.3.html?followup=544406be49923be95f2b2d341c2536b8>.

4 Author Unknown, ‘Director Callously Murdered While Saving Payroll’, The Age (Melbourne), Friday, 2 September 1938,
<https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/205183662?searchTerm=armed%20holdup%20clifton%20
hill&searchLimits=>.

5 Author Unknown, Boy’s Evidence Clifton Hill Hold-up “Man in raincot shot Sherry” ; Author Unknown, ‘Shoe
Manufacturer Murdered’, Daily Telegraph and North Murchison and Pilbarra Gazette (Western Australia), Friday,
2 September 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/211784682?searchTerm=shoe%20manufacturer%20
murdered&searchLimits=>.
6 Author Unknown, Shoe Manufacturer Murderered.

Page 1 Page 17
 7 Author Unknown, ‘Sherry Murder - Man Charged’, Cairns Post (Queensland), Wednesday, 7 September 1938, <https:// trove.
nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/42121281?searchTerm=sherry%20murder%20man%20charged&searchLimits=>.; Author
Unknown, Payroll Robbery.

8 Author Unknown, ‘Herbert Jenner and Selwyn Wallace to Hang for Murder - Found Guilty of Shooting Frederick Sherry ‘,
Recorder (Port Pirie SA), Saturday, 3 December 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/96290634?sea rchTerm=
herbert%20Jenner%20and%20Selwyn&searchLimits=>.

9 Ibid.

10 Author Unknown, ‘Jenner-Wallace Appeal Dismissed’, Maryborough Chronicle, Wide Bay and Burnett Advertiser (
Queensland), Friday, 16 December 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/152162614?searchTerm=Jenner- Wallace
%20appeal%20dismissed&searchLimits=>.

11 Author Unknown, ‘Jenner and Wallace - Death Sentence Commuted’, Argus (Melbourne), Thursday, 22 December 1938, <
https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/12078757?searchTerm=Jenner%20and%20Wallace&searchLimits=>.

12 Author Unknown, ‘Funeral of Murder Victim - Largely Attended Services’, The Age (Melbourne), Monday, 5 September
1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/205193580?searchTerm=armed%20holdup%20clifton%20 hill&searchLimits
=>.

13 PJ Rimmer, ‘The boot and shoe industry in Melbourne’, Australian Geographer, 10/5 (1968), 370-381. 14 Ibid. 372.

Page 18
1
 15 Unknown Author, ‘Great Improvement in Boot and Shoe Making’, The Herald Melbourne (Melbourne), 7, <https:// trove.
nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/244180076?searchTerm=Great%20Improvement%20in%20Boot%20and%20
Shoe%20Making&searchLimits=>.;Author Unknown, ‘The Goodyear Shoe Machinery’, Argus (Melbourne), Thursday, 26
March 1891 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/8486557?searchTerm=The%20goodyear%20Shoe%20 Machinery&
searchLimits=>.

16 Unknown Author, Great Improvement in Boot and Shoe Making.

17 Registrar General., Statistics of the Colony of Victoria for the year 1871 (Melbourne: John Ferres, Government Printer
Melbourne 1872), <https://www.abs.gov.au/AUSSTATS/abs@.nsf/DetailsPage/1309.21871?OpenDocument>, 41.

18 V H Arnold, Victorian Year Book 1968 (Melbourne: A C Brooks Government Printer, 1968), <https://www.ausstats. abs.
gov.au/ausstats/free.nsf/0/A9AF10FC686748E3CA257AFD00159705/$File/13012%20-Vic%20YrBook-1968.pdf>, 407,423.

19 Author Unknown, ‘The Melbourne Boot and Shoe Makers Association’, Geelong Advertiser (Victoria ), Wednesday, 23
November 1859, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/146564285?searchTerm=melbourne%20boot%20and%20 shoe%20
makers%20association&searchLimits=l-title=558|||l-decade=185>.

20 Ibid.

21 Ibid.

Page 19
1
 22 Author Unknown, ‘The Condition of Labour’, Argus (Melbourne), Friday, 5 August 1864, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/article/5736962?searchTerm=The%20condition%20of%20labour&searchLimits=>.

23 Author Unknown, 'Meeting of Master and Journeymen Boot and Shoemakers', Leader (Melbourne), Saturday, 28 January 1865 <https://trove.
nla.gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article197034842.3.html?followup=53dc48c93 cb113127eca6fdd9c93a56d>.

24 Author Unknown, ‘Meeting of Master and Journeymen Boot and Shoemakers’, Leader (Melbourne), Saturday, 28
January 1865 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article197034842.3.html?followup=53dc48c93cb 11
3127eca6fdd9c93a56d>.

25 V H Arnold, Victorian Year Book 1961 (Melbourne: A C Brooks Government Printer, 1961), <https://www.ausstats. abs.
gov.au/ausstats/free.nsf/0/938CC156E5C74B68CA257FC40017CFF4/$File/90_13012%20-Vic%20YrBook-1961_ Part_8_
Manufacturing_Industry.pdf>, 531.

26 Author Unknown, ‘Shoe Factories Fear Imports’, Sydney Morning Herald (Sydney), Tuesday, 23 March 1954 <https:// trove
.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/18416029?searchTerm=shoe%20factories%20fear%20imports&searchLimits=>.

27 Author Unknown, ‘Boot and Shoe Making in Victoria’, Adelaide Express (South Australia), Saturday, 14 April
1866 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/207607734?searchTerm=boot%20and%20shoe%20making%20in%20
Victoria&searchLimits=>.

28 V H Arnold, Victorian Year Book 1961, 531

Page 20
1
 29 V H Arnold, Victorian Year Book 1968, 407.

30 Author Unknown, ‘Chinese footwear ‘not affecting jobs’’, Canberra Times (ACT), Saturday, 3 December 1966,
<https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/106950103?searchTerm=chinese%20footwear%20not%20affecting%20
jobs&searchLimits=>.; Author Unknown, ‘Dumpng hits industry’, Canberra Times (ACT), Thursday, 15 December 1966
<https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article106952229.3.html?followup=21f61f6f88eda367d62e2e11e9
15923e>.

31 Author Unknown, ‘Shoe Tariff’, Canberra Times (ACT), Monday 1 February 1971, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article110452454.3.html?followup=cd97c6fa7b811df0c1c6d665c0982049>.

32 Author Unknown, ‘Three-year plan to protect industries announced’, Canberra Times (ACT), Wednesday, 3
Novermber 1977, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article110879444.3.html?followup=da488be4
ea 364b90913fc92d9c57de04>.

33 Ibid.

34 Author Unknown, ‘Shoe Industry ‘should update’’, Canberra Times (ACT), Monday, 9 May 1983, <https://trove.nla.
gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article131842962.3.html?followup=eb7a0c6979ec7adc76a75c469cb8fef3>.

35 Ibid.

Page 21
1
 36 Ian Davis, ‘Import duty reduction to boost competition’, The Canberra Times (ACT), Wedneday, 13 March 1991
<https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/122349074?searchTerm=import%20duty%20reduction%20to%20boost%20
competition&searchLimits=>.

37 Author Unknown, ‘Kangaroo Skins’, Colonial Times (Hobart), Friday, 6 July 1849, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/article/8765250?searchTerm=Kangaroo%20skins&searchLimits=l-decade=184|||l-year=1849|||l-
state=Tasmania|||l-title=24|||l-month=7>.

38 Author Unknown, ‘Clogs to Meet Shoe Shortage’, Daily Telegraph (Sydney), Saturday, 16 May 1942, <https://trove.
nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/247991266?searchTerm=clogs%20to%20meet%20shoe%20shortage&searchLimits=>.;
Author Unknown, ‘Boots for Russians’, Week (Brisbane ), Friday 19 March 1915 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/arti
cle/190553246?searchTerm=boots%20for%20russians&searchLimits=>.

39 Author Unknown, ‘Size 6ft shoe’, World’s News (Sydney), Saturday, 7 NOvember 1953 <https://trove.nla.gov.au
/ newspaper/article/131645125?searchTerm=size%206ft%20shoe&searchLimits=>.

40 Author Unknown, ‘New Type of Shoe’, Morning Bulletin (Rockhampton Queensland ), Monday, 16 May 1949, <https://
trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/56903987?searchTerm=new%20type%20of%20shoe&searchLimits=>; Author
Unknown, ‘Floating Shoe Here Soon’, Advocate (Burnie Tasmania), Thursday 14 May 1953, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/article/69471652?searchTerm=floating%20shoe&searchLimits=>.

Page 22
1
 41 Author Unknown, ‘Sweating in the Boot Trade’, Mount Alexander Mail (Victoria), Saturday, 20 December
1884, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/201206487?searchTerm=Sweating%20in%20the%20boot%20
trade&searchLimits=>.;Author Unknown, ‘The Boot Trade - Public Meeting at Collinwood’, The Age (Melbourne), Tuesday,
2 July 1895, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/203611140?searchTerm=The%20boot%20trade%20 public%20
meeting&searchLimits=>.

42 Author Unknown, Sweating in the Boot Trade.; GJR Linge, Industrial awakening: a geography of Australian
manufacturing, 1788-1890 (Canberra, ACT: Australian National University Press, 1979), 198.; Graeme Davison, The Rise
and Fall of Marvellous Melbourne (Melbourne: Melbourne University Press, 1978), 72.

43 Author Unknown, ‘Local Shoemaker before Court - Remarkable Conflict of Evidence ‘, Record (Emerald Hill Victoria ), Saturday
5 August 1933, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper /article/164457826 ?searchTerm =local%20shoemaker %20 before%20court&
searchLimits=>.

43 Author Unknown, ‘Award Broken Shoe Manufacturers Fined’, The Argus (Melbourne), thursday 3 August 1933,
<https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/4752967?searchTerm=award%20broken%20shoe%20manufacturer%20 fined&
searchLimits=>.
44 Ibid. 45 Ibid. 46 Ibid. 47 Ibid. 48 Author Unknown, 'Award Broken Shoe Manufacturers Fined', The Argus (Melbourne
), Thursday 3 August 1933, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/4752967?searchTerm=award% 20broken%20shoe
%20manufacturer%20fined&searchLimits=>. 49 Ibid
50 Author Unknown, Local Shoemaker before Court - Remarkable Conflict of Evidence

51 Author Unknown, ‘Sweating in the Boot Trade’, Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners’ Advocate (New South Wales), Tuesday 8
August 1933 , <https ://trove .nla .gov .au/newspaper /article /135092429 ?searchTerm =sweating %20in%20boot % 20 trade &

PagesearchLimits=>.
Page 1
23
 52 Ibid.

53 Registrar General., Statistics of the Colony of Victoria for the year 1871, 41.

54 Author Unknown, ‘Boot Trade’, Australian Star (Sydney), Tuesday 25 March 1890, 8, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/article/230625531?searchTerm=Boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

55 J J Fenton, Victorian Year Book 1895-8 (Melbourne: Robt S Brain, Government Printer, 1901), <https://www. ausstats.
abs.gov.au/ausstats/free.nsf/0/64E8DECB1F5B609CCA257F6400149FB3/$File/Victorian_Year_Book_1895-8. pdf>, 951.; H H
Hayter, Victorian Year Book 1889-90 (Melbourne: Sand & McDougall, 365 Collins Street, 1889-90), <https://www.ausstats.
abs.gov.au/ausstats/free.nsf/0/D8BB3779966355E6CA257F6B0008D68D/$File/20_Victorian_ Year_Book_1889-90_Vol_1_
Preface_Contents.pdf>, 347.

56 V H Arnold, Victorian Year Book (Melbourne: A C Brooks, Government Printer Melbourne, 1961), <https://www. ausstats.
abs.gov.au/ausstats/free.nsf/0/5A385F70F26D8FD8CA257AFD001596FE/$File/13012%20-Vic%20YrBook-1961. pdf>, 575

57 Author Unknown, ‘Boot Trade’, Clarence and Richmond Examiner (Grafton, NSW), Thursday 16 February 1911, 5, <https
://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/61604291?searchTerm=Boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

58 Author Unknown, ‘Women Displacing Men’, Register (Adelaide), Saturday 25 February 1911, 16, <https://trove.nla. gov.au
/newspaper/article/58609746?searchTerm=trouble%20in%20boot%20trade&searchLimits=l-title=89>.

Page 24
1
 59 Ibid., 60 Ibid

61 Author Unknown, ‘Women in Boot Trade’, Geelong Advertiser (Geelong), 12 April 1911, 4, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/article/149204067?searchTerm=women%20in%20boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

62 Author Unknown, ‘Women in the Boot Trade - Should They Receive Men’s Wages? ‘, Sun (Sydney), Thursday 18 May 1911,
1, <https ://trove .nla .gov .au /newspaper /article /221588411 ?searchTerm =women %20 in%20 the %20 boot %20 trade &
searchLimits=>. 63 Ibid

64 Author Unknown, ‘Victoria The Boot Trade Dispute - Judge Heydon’s Decision’, Geraldton Guardian (Geraldton), Thursday
27 July 1911, 3, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article66298328.3.html?followup=23b ba78e816948fbd
2943114f2fbc10f>.

65 Joan Wallach Scott, ‘Gender as a useful category of historical analysis’ in Culture, society and sexuality (Routledge, 2007),
1075.

66 Author Unknown , ‘Pay for Women in the Boot Trade ’, Age (Melbourne ), Friday , 30 July 1920 <https ://trove .nla.gov . au/
newspaper/article/203072591?searchTerm=pay%20for%20women%20in%20the%20boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

67 Author Unknown, ‘Our Novel Industries - The Boot and Leather Trade’, Herald (Melbourne), Friday, 27 May 1870, <
https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/244913241?searchTerm=our%20novel%20industries&searchLimits=>.

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 68 Arthur D. Dean, ‘Trade Teaching in the Boot and Shoe Industry’, The Annals of the American Academy of Political and
Social Science, 33/1 (1909), 155-162, 162, in JSTOR [online database].; Author Unknown, ‘The Victorian Co- Operative Boot
Company ‘, Leader (Melbourne), Saturday, 19 June 1869 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/ article/196482012?searchTerm
=the%20victorian%20co-operative%20boot%20company&searchLimits=>.

69 Chamber’s twentieth Century Dictionary of the English Language, s.v. ‘Chamber’s twentieth Century Dictionary of the
English Language’, 518.; Arthur D. Dean, Trade Teaching in the Boot and Shoe Industry, 160.

70 Arthur D. Dean, Trade Teaching in the Boot and Shoe Industry, 161.; Author Unknown, Our Novel Industries - The Boot
and Leather Trade.

71 Author Unknown, ‘Shoe Styles’, The Advertiser (Adelaide), Tuesday, 27 December 1927, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/article/47442938?searchTerm=shoe%20styles&searchLimits=>.

72 Author Unknown, Boot and Shoe Making in Victoria.

73 Ibid.; Graeme Davison, The Rise and Fall of Marvellous Melbourne 55.

74 University Deakin, The Australian city reader. Unit B. Australian writers and the city (Waurn Ponds, Vic: Waurn Ponds,
Vic : Deakin University, 1984), 212-213.

75 PJ Rimmer, The boot and shoe industry in Melbourne, 372, 378.

Page 26
1
 Bibliography

Figure List

Figure 1: Photograph of left shoe, c1914 in Trove [online collection] accessed 10 August 2019.

Figure 2: Photograph of Robert Wright 1926, in Trove [online collections] accessed 4 September 2019.

Figure 3: Taken from a 1930s pictorial booklet of Australian Industries produced by the Education Department of
Victoria. Statistics given are for those of the financial year ended 30th June 1932.

Figure 4: Photograph of Sherry Shoe Factory, Image by Author.

Figure 5: Photograph of Herbert Jenner 1938 contained in a notice published by the Superintendent of Police of the
Criminal Investigation Branch courtesy of the J K Moir Collection in Trove [online collection], accessed 8 August 2019.

Figure 6: Kidney Bros, Smith Street, Collingwood c1860s.

Figure 7: Boot Factory, Tasmania. C1921-1924, in Trove [online collections] accessed 10 August 2019

Figure 8: More Protection - Victoria Wants High Tariffs, Daily News (Perth, WA : 1882 - 1950), Saturday 15 June 1912,
page 9

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 Figure 9: Photograph of Manufacture of Military boots, Clifford Bottomley, c1939-1945 in Trove [online collection]
accessed 10 August 2019.

Figure 10: ‘Size 6ft shoe’, World’s News (Sydney, NSW : 1901 - 1955), Saturday 7 November 1953, page 3 in Trove [online
collection] accessed 10 August 2019.

Figure 11: ‘Boots for Russians’, The Week (Brisbane, Qld: 1876 - 1934), Friday 19 March 1915, page 14, in Trove [online
collection] accessed 10 August 2019.
Figure 12; Billboard Advertising Harkness Shoes, c1925, in Trove [online collection], accessed 10 August 2019

Figure 13: Photograph of V G Zemancheff & Sons Pty Ltd Manufacturers of Basket Shoes, 1931, in Trove [online
collection], accessed 11 August 2019.

Figure 14: Underpaid Employes (sic), The Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), Thursday 3 August 1933, page 7, in Trove
[online collection], accessed 10 August 2019.

Figure 15: Photograph of Mrs Zemancheff and Friends Wearing Basket Shoes, Melbourne, 1936, in Trove [online
collection] accessed 11 August 2019.

Figure 16: Photograph of Young women machinists in a boot factory, Melbourne, c1911, in Trove [online collection],
accessed 1 August 2019.

Figure 17: Photograph of His Honour Judge Charles Gilbert Haydon, c1909, in Trove online [collection], accessed 21
August 2019.
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 Figure 18: Photograph of a group of women and a young boy outside the Gould & Porter Shoe Factory, c1925, in Trove
[online collection] accessed 11 August 2019.

Figure 19: Photograph of the Clicking Room at Whybrows Shoe Factory, Collingwood, 1920, in Trove [online collection],
accessed 2 August 2019.

Figure 20: Photograph of Elevated view of street corner showing backyards with weatherboard buildings, corner building
with sign “Dairy”. Three storey brick building in right background with sign [...] Shoe Manufacturer, Abbotsford, c1940,
in Trove [online collection] accessed 21 August 2019.

Figure 21: Map of Fitzroy, 1921, in Trove [online collection] accessed 8 August 2019

Figure 22: Photograph of Fitzroy, Image by Author.

Figure 23: Photograph of Collingwood, Rudolph Jenny, c1870-1880 in Trove [online collection] accessed 14 September
2019.

Figure 24: Photograph of Fitzroy, Rudolph Jenny, c1870-1880 in Trove [online collection] accessed 14 September 2019.

Figure 25: Photograph of the British United Shoe Machinery Company, Alexandra Parade, Fitzroy, 1948, in Trove
[online collection] accessed 8 August 2019.

Figure 26 Photograph of same building in 2019, Image by Author

Page 29
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 Bibliography

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—, Victorian Year Book 1961 (Melbourne: A C Brooks Government Printer, 1961), <https://www.ausstats.abs.gov.
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—, Victorian Year Book 1968 (Melbourne: A C Brooks Government Printer, 1968), <https://www.ausstats.abs.gov.au/
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 General., Registrar, Statistics of the Colony of Victoria for the year 1871 (Melbourne: John Ferres, Government Printer
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article/5736962?searchTerm=The%20condition%20of%20labour&searchLimits=>.
18

—, ‘Meeting of Master and Journeymen Boot and Shoemakers’, Leader (Melbourne), Saturday, 28 January 1865 <https://
trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article197034842.3.html?followup=53dc48c93cb113127eca6fdd9c93a5
6d>.

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gov.au/newspaper/article/207607734?searchTerm=boot%20and%20shoe%20making%20in%20Victoria&searchLimits=>.
Page 31
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 —, ‘The Victorian Co-Operative Boot Company ‘, Leader (Melbourne), Saturday, 19 June 1869 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
newspaper/article/196482012?searchTerm=the%20victorian%20co-operative%20boot%20company&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Our Novel Industries - The Boot and Leather Trade’, Herald (Melbourne), Friday, 27 May 1870, <https://trove.nla.
gov.au/newspaper/article/244913241?searchTerm=our%20novel%20industries&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Sweating in the Boot Trade’, Mount Alexander Mail (Victoria), Saturday, 20 December 1884, <https://trove.nla.gov.
au/newspaper/article/201206487?searchTerm=Sweating%20in%20the%20boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Boot Trade’, Australian Star (Sydney), Tuesday 25 March 1890, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/23062553

1?searchTerm=Boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘The Goodyear Shoe Machinery’, Argus (Melbourne), Thursday, 26 March 1891 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/
article/8486557?searchTerm=The%20goodyear%20Shoe%20Machinery&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘The Boot Trade - Public Meeting at Collinwood’, The Age (Melbourne), Tuesday, 2 July 1895, <https://trove.nla.gov.
au/newspaper/article/203611140?searchTerm=The%20boot%20trade%20public%20meeting&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Boot Trade’, Clarence and Richmond Examiner (Grafton, NSW), Thursday 16 February 1911, <https://trove.nla.gov.
au/newspaper/article/61604291?searchTerm=Boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Victoria The Boot Trade Dispute - Judge Heydon’s Decision’, Geraldton Guardian (Geraldton), Thursday 27 July
1911, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article66298328.3.html?followup=23bba78e816948fbd2943
114f2fbc10f>.
Page 32
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 —, ‘Women Displacing Men’, Register (Adelaide), Saturday 25 February 1911, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/articl
e/58609746?searchTerm=trouble%20in%20boot%20trade&searchLimits=l-title=89>.

—, ‘Women in Boot Trade’, Geelong Advertiser (Geelong), 12 April 1911, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/1492

04067?searchTerm=women%20in%20boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Women in the Boot Trade - Should They Receive Men’s Wages? ‘, Sun (Sydney), Thursday 18 May 1911, <https://
trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/221588411?searchTerm=women%20in%20the%20boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Boots for Russians’, Week (Brisbane ), Friday 19 March 1915 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/190553246?

searchTerm=boots%20for%20russians&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Pay for Women in the Boot Trade’, Age (Melbourne), Friday, 30 July 1920 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/
article/203072591?searchTerm=pay%20for%20women%20in%20the%20boot%20trade&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Shoe Styles’, The Advertiser (Adelaide), Tuesday, 27 December 1927, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/

article/47442938?searchTerm=shoe%20styles&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Award Broken Shoe Manufacturers Fined’, The Argus (Melbourne), thursday 3 August 1933, <https://trove.nla.gov.
au/newspaper/article/4752967?searchTerm=award%20broken%20shoe%20manufacturer%20fined&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Local Shoemaker before Court - Remarkable Conflict of Evidence ‘, Record (Emerald Hill Victoria), Saturday 5
August 1933, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/164457826?searchTerm=local%20shoemaker%20before%20
court&searchLimits=>.
Page 33
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 —, ‘Sweating in the Boot Trade’, Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners’ Advocate (New South Wales), Tuesday
8 August 1933, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/135092429?searchTerm=sweating%20in%20boot%20
trade&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Boy’s Evidence Clifton Hill Hold-up “Man in raincot shot Sherry” ‘, Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners’ Advocate
(NSW), Wednesday, 30 November 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/rendition/nla.news-article132840395.3.html
?followup=9dd175477e9d6b553d9a87cdf08cc036>.

—, ‘Director Callously Murdered While Saving Payroll’, The Age (Melbourne), Friday, 2 September 1938, <https://trove.
nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/205183662?searchTerm=armed%20holdup%20clifton%20hill&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Funeral of Murder Victim - Largely Attended Services’, The Age (Melbourne), Monday, 5 September 1938, <https://
trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/205193580?searchTerm=armed%20holdup%20clifton%20hill&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Herbert Jenner and Selwyn Wallace to Hang for Murder - Found Guilty of Shooting Frederick Sherry ‘, Recorder
(Port Pirie SA), Saturday, 3 December 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/96290634?searchTerm=herbe
rt%20Jenner%20and%20Selwyn&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Jenner-Wallace Appeal Dismissed’, Maryborough Chronicle, Wide Bay and Burnett Advertiser (Queensland), Friday,
16 December 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/152162614?searchTerm=Jenner-Wallace%20appeal%20
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Page 34
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 —, ‘Payroll Robbery’, Daily Telegraph (Sydney), Saturday, 3 December 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/
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Australia), Friday, 2 September 1938, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/211784682?searchTerm=shoe%20
manufacturer%20murdered&searchLimits=>.

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—, ‘New Type of Shoe’, Morning Bulletin (Rockhampton Queensland ), Monday, 16 May 1949, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
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—, ‘Floating Shoe Here Soon’, Advocate (Burnie Tasmania), Thursday 14 May 1953, <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/
article/69471652?searchTerm=floating%20shoe&searchLimits=>.

—, ‘Size 6ft shoe’, World’s News (Sydney), Saturday, 7 NOvember 1953 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/13164
5125?searchTerm=size%206ft%20shoe&searchLimits=>.
Page 35
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 —, ‘Shoe Factories Fear Imports’, Sydney Morning Herald (Sydney), Tuesday, 23 March 1954 <https://trove.nla.gov.au/
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