The Aromantic Guide To The Use of ... : Herbs

The Aromantic Guide
to the use of ...
Herbs
in Skin, Hair and Health Care products
Kolbjorn Borseth
The Aromantic Guide to the use of Herbs
The Aromantic Guide

to the use of ...
in Skin, Hair and Health Care products
Kolbjorn Borseth
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Precaution
The information published here is not intended as a substitute for personal medical advice. Before making
any decision regarding your health, please consult a physician, medical herbalist or other qualified health
care practitioner. Pregnant women, the elderly or those with difficult medical conditions should be
particularly careful when taking herbs internally or applying them externally. It’s a good idea to let your
GP know that you are considering the use of herbs as some herbs may cross-react with some of the
conventional drugs you are taking. Report any side effects to your health care practitioner.
Disclaimer
This information is provided for our customers and is obtained from a variety of sources, including: the
research, knowledge and experience of Kolbjorn Borseth; Lilly Johansson; books; and the Internet. While
we have obviously done our utmost to provide correct information, there may be errors.
USA: These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These
products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form including digital
reproduction without the prior written consent of the Publisher.
Published by Aromantic Ltd

17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray, IV36 1EL, Scotland.
Tel: (01309) 696900 Fax: (01309) 696911
E-mail: info@aromantic.co.uk
Website: www.aromantic.co.uk
© Copyright 2006 - Aromantic
ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-0-9
2
Welcome…
Welcome to the revised, updated and much expanded ‘Aromantic’s Guide to the use of Herbs as
in Skin, Hair and Health Care products. Formerly known as Aromantic’s Education Pack 3, this
updated Guide will help you to maximise the use of 37 common herbs in the making of your own
Natural Skin, Hair and Body Care products.
It is an excellent addition to the other Aromantic Guides as it again helps you to take your health
and beauty into your hands. While I recommend that you attend an Aromantic education course
or consult other Aromantic Guides or Recipe Brochures to gain the necessary know-how, this
Guide contains the basic information and general methods you need to make many fantastic
products.
For our American readers, we have included Metric-US conversion tables. The measurement that
most of our American customers have trouble with is ‘ml’, which stands for millilitre. I
understand that most measuring jugs in America have ml on one side and oz (fluid ounces) on the
other side. Also we refer to ‘g’ for grams. Buying a sensitive gram scale that can detect 1g may
prove to be very helpful to all of our readers and customers, wherever you may live.
I hope you will find this Guide useful in making your own professional, natural products with the
real healing benefits that herbs can offer, whether you’re making gifts for friends or for selling to
your clients.
Enjoy the adventure.
Acknowledgements...
I would like to thank the people who made this book possible. My great Swedish mentor, Lilly
Johansson, who taught me so much about complementary health and natural healing methods.
Many of the Compress Recipes in this book I owe to Lilly’s knowledge. Over 30,000 patients
attended Lilly’s hospital, Follingegaarden for 30 years, from the mid-1960s.
I wish to thank Susan Kemp, the researcher, editor, proofreader and my ‘ghost writer’ – another
job done with your usual high standards.
Of course, even the most interesting information can be boring if not presented correctly.
Stewart Noble, who has worked closely with me for many years, has done great justice to the
information with his beautiful and clear design work.
Last but not least William Youssi, who, in his lovely drawings, captures the spirit of the stars of
the book itself, the plants.
Thank you all for your hard work and dedication.
Kolbjorn Borseth, Founder of Aromantic
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Contents...
Welcome and Acknowledgements… 3
Herbal medicine traditions… 5
Constituents of herbs… 5
The skin, hair and nails… 10
How to prepare your Herbs for use in Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products… 11
How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your recipes… 11
Tinctures… 12
Herbal CO2 Extracts… 12
Hydrolates… 13
Macerated Herb Oils… 13
Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty… 14
Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems… 16
Skin Toners… 16
Compresses, Poultices and Plasters… 17
Poultices… 19
Gels and Creams… 20
Ointments, Shampoos, Conditioners, Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect Repellents… 22
A description of Herbs and their application… Aloe 23
Arnica 25
Birch 27
Chamomile 29
Chickweed 31
Cleavers 33
Comfrey 34
Coltsfoot 36
Cornflower 37
Dandelion 38
Echinacea 39
Elderflower 41
Eyebright 42
Ginkgo 44
Ginseng 45
Horse Chestnut 46
Horseradish 47
Horsetail 49
Hyssop 50
Lady’s Mantle 52
Lavender 53
Lemon Balm 55
Marigold 56
Myrrh 58
Nettle, Stinging 59
Orris Root 62
Peppermint 63
Plantain 64
Rose 66
Rosemary 68
Sage 70
St. Johns Wort 72
Thyme 74
Tormentilla Root 76
Wild Pansy 77
Witch Hazel 79
Yarrow 80
Glossary… 82
Metric US Conversion Tables… 85
Bibliography… 86
Biographies and List of Suppliers… 87
4
Herbal medicine traditions...

Herbalism is the oldest form of medicine and extends right back to the earliest history of
mankind. All cultures have long folk medicine traditions that include the use of herbs and plants.
Even in ancient cultures, people methodically collected information on herbs and developed well-
defined herbal pharmacopoeias.
The ancient Egyptian priests, who were the physicians in that culture and time, prescribed many
remedies used today, such as Olive Oil, Myrrh and Juniper Berries. The first European botanical
author in our recorded history was probably the Greek, Theophrastos Eresios, who lived from
about 370BC - 285BC. Many other famous European authors followed, such as Galen, Paracelsus,
Gerard, and Culpeper, to name a few.
Well into the 20th century, and still today, much of the pharmacopoeia of scientific medicine was
derived from the herbal lore of native peoples. Many drugs commonly used today are of herbal
origin. Indeed, about one-quarter of the prescription drugs dispensed by community pharmacies
in the United States contain at least one active ingredient derived from plant material. So, the
roots of herbalism lie in the ancient past and still play an essential role in our healing traditions
and will continue to do so on our journey into the future.
Constituents of herbs...
The active constituents of herbs are those substances, which perform a specific therapeutic
function. Herbs are very chemically complex and they contain thousands of biologically active
compounds over and above their everyday components and metabolites, which are called
primary compounds. The primary compounds, such as carbohydrates, lipids, nucleotides and
peptides are shared by all living organisms and are central to life processes. The secondary
compounds are derived from primary compounds, but are not central to metabolism, hence their
name.
These chemical constituents of plants, often called phytochemicals, act in synergy, creating a
greater therapeutic power together than if on their own. This synergy also tends to counteract
the possible side effects of an individual component. Where there are several active ingredients, a
herb may be used for different purposes. St John's Wort, for instance, enhances mood and is also
anti-inflammatory and antiviral.
Numerous studies indicate that phytochemicals in herbs and spices may be accountable for their
health effects. Different herbs each contain a wide variety of active phytochemicals and
constituents.
The chemically distinct, but often overlapping, classes of constituents are mainly:
Terpenoids – such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes, triterpenes, tetraterpenes,

saponins, iridoids, carotenoids and steroids.
Phenolic Acids – such as tannins, gallic acid, ellagic acids, capsaicin, rosmarinic acid, quinones,
salicylates and lignins.
Glycosides – such as flavonoids, glucosinolates and cyanogens.
Phytosterols – such as beta-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, brassicasterol, delta-7-

stigmasterol and delta-7-avenasterol.
Alkaloids – such as caffeine, theobromine, theophylline.
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Polysaccharides – such as gums and mucilages.
Peptides – combinations of amino acids. Peptides combine to make proteins, including antigens.
Also of interest are Essential Oils, Resins, Vitamins, Minerals, Acids, Antibiotics and Heterosides,
which often contain several of the above constituent classes.
Despite the widespread use of medicinal herbs, much research is still required to identify the
active constituents and understand their mode of action but the medical and folk herbalist
traditions from around the world have gone through a lot of trial and error to discover the well-
accepted benefits of herbs we know about today.
More about some of the constituents found in herbs...

Alkaloids
Usually derivatives of amino acids, an alkaloid is a nitrogenous organic molecule that has a
pharmacological effect on humans and other animals. The name derives from the word alkaline;
originally, the term was used to describe any nitrogen-containing base (an amine in modern
terms). Alkaloids are found as secondary metabolites in plants (e.g. in potatoes and tomatoes),
animals (e.g. in shellfish) and fungi, and can be extracted from their sources by treatment with
acids (usually hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid, though organic acids such as maleic acid and
citric acid are sometimes used).
Even though many alkaloids are poisonous (such as strychnine or coniine), some are used in
medicine as analgesics (pain relievers) or anaesthetics, as sedatives, vasoconstrictors and as
antispasmodics particularly morphine and codeine. Other well-known alkaloids are morphine,
cocaine, strychnine, quinine, codeine, solanine, and of course, nicotine.
Most alkaloids have a very bitter taste and act primarily on the central nervous system. Alkaloids
are approximately 2/3 fat-soluble and are readily absorbed by the body through the mucous
membranes and also partly through healthy skin. Herbs with a high alkaloid content should not be
used in Skin Care products.
Bitter Principle
Herbs that taste bitter act as stimulating tonics for the digestive system. Bitter principle is a
group of chemicals that have a severely bitter taste. Bitter tasting compounds cause a reflex in
the taste buds which stimulates the secretion of saliva, digestive juices and secretions from the
gall bladder and also to stimulate the liver, helping hepatic elimination. Bitter herbs offer excellent
health benefits and should be taken for that reason every day as a tonic. The taking of bitter
herbs as a daily tonic is not as popular as it once was, leading to a craving for sweet tasting foods.
Examples of herbs with a high bitter principle are Devil’s Claw, Hops, Burdock, Dandelion, etc.
and are easily dissolved in warm water. Herbs with a high Bitter principle content should not be
used in Skin Care products.
Glycosides
Consist of a sweet and non-sweet component. The non-sweet component determines the
glycoside's pharmacological properties. Some of the better known glycosides include cardiac
glycoside found in foxglove and lily of the valley and flavonoid glycoside found in buckwheat.
Glycosides are normally not absorbed by the skin. They are generally either water or alcohol
soluble.
6
Saponins are glycosides with a distinctive foaming characteristic, which are particularly useful in
Skin and Hair Care products. Saponins are natural surfactants, or detergents, found in many
plants, and so are used in Shampoos, as well as Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles.
Saponins are also used as foaming agents in drinks such as root beer (popular in America), in
improving the head in beer, etc. They are also used in fire extinguishers as a foam producer and
in photographic emulsions. They can be used in industry and mining for activities such as ore
separation.
They reduce the surface tension in a water solution and have cleansing, antifungal, antibacterial,
emollient and emulsifying properties, which are important properties for cosmetic applications.
They can be used to increase reabsorption of substances (e.g. medicines and minerals) in the
mucous membranes and partially in the skin. Saponins are antiseptic and dissolve carbohydrates
and scabs. They help other glycosides to dissolve in water and are themselves water soluble.
Generally they are not absorbed by the skin when it is unbroken. Saponins are found in Birch
Leaves, Cowslip, Wild Pansy, Horsetail, Yucca, Soapbark and Soapwort. To extract saponins from
herbs and roots they must be boiled for 15-20 minutes.
Carbohydrates
These are fructooligosaccharides (FOS), immunomodulating polysaccharides, gums, mucilages,

dietary fibres, cellulose, pectin, & organic acids. When combined with water, carbohydrates form
viscous compounds producing a variety of runny to more solid Gels. They can be used externally
for infections and inflammations and internally in the mouth, throat, stomach and digestive tract
where they coat the skin or mucous membranes with a protective film or barrier against
mechanical or chemical damage. They relieve pain, are cooling and emollient (softening). They are
easily dissolved in water. Some are used as Emulsifiers and Thickening Agents. Some examples of
herbs with a high carbohydrate content are: Coltsfoot, Lime Blossom, Linseed, Agar-agar,
Carrageen, Gum Tragacanth, Gum Arabic, Guar Gum, etc.
Tannins
A group of chemical compounds that occur naturally in some herbs, teas, fruits, such as red
grapes, and in tree bark and wood – part of a larger group of substances called phenolics. The
most important common property of tannins is that they form insoluble bonds with proteins.
They bind (chelate) albumen, a protein which is found in both the skin and mucus membranes,
forming a layer of protection against infection and irritation. This in turn prevents infecting
organisms from invading the body, and helps to hasten the healing process. They increase the
affected tissue's ability to resist infections and reduce its vulnerability to chemical or mechanical
damage. They also reduce redness and swelling in cases of inflammation. Tannins are antiseptic
because they inhibit bacterial growth. They reduce sensitivity in the skin and mucous membranes
and therefore alleviate pain. This shuts out bacteria and hastens the healing of sores and inflamed
mucous membranes and skin. Used in its pure form, at full strength, it tans leather. In lower
concentrations in plants, and in their natural context together with other substances such as
sugars, starches and other viscous substances, tannins normally have a mild and superficially
astringent effect on the skin and mucous membranes.
Their astringent and antiseptic properties make them ideal for sore throat Gargles, diarrhoea,
Wound Compresses, weepy rashes, and more. Tannins also offer antioxidant protection. Some
herbs high in tannins are Witch Hazel, White Oak Bark, Tormentilla, Plantain and Red Raspberry,
Condurango, Willow, Cinnamon, Queen of the Meadow, and black or green tea.
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Some examples of herbs high in tannins in more detail:
Oak Bark: highly astringent and used for haemorrhoids and, internally, for diarrhoea.
Witch Hazel: mildly astringent, used for Skin Toners, skin infections and haemorrhoid
preparations.
Tormentilla Root: used in Mouth Washes and Gargles and in Toothpaste for bleeding and
inflammation of the gums.
Blueberries: used internally for diarrhoea (needs to be boiled first).
There are also smaller quantities of tannins in St. John's Wort, Peppermint and Sage. The most
common tannins found in e.g. Oak Bark and Witch Hazel are water soluble. Others are more
difficult to dissolve. Tannins are not usually absorbed through the skin, but where there are large
open sores or burns they can be absorbed in quantities which can damage the liver, kidneys and
blood circulation.
Herbs containing tannins are used mainly for skin infections (acne), small sores, burns and
chilblains, to staunch bleeding (e.g. in haemorrhoids), for bleeding gums, inflammation in the
mouth and throat, and for weeping eczema. Herbs high in tannins should not be used for
extensive burns.
Other constituents
Apart from those already mentioned, there are other substances found in herbs which are of
lesser pharmaceutical importance. These are substances which can have a certain application or
which can negatively affect a Herbal Extract or finished product, e.g. certain pigments which
produce greys or lighter or darker green pigmentation in, for example, Shampoos or Skin
Creams. One example is the way too much Nettle in a Shampoo will produce a greyish-green
colour.
Fats and Waxes
Fats are esters which occur between fatty acids and the alcohol Glycerine. Waxes are esters
which occur between fatty acids and high molecular weight alcohols such as cetyl and myristyl
alcohols. Fats and Waxes are alcohol soluble (96%) and partially soluble in other Fats and Oils.
They are not water soluble but will melt in warm water. Not all of the components will dissolve
and those that do, will float on the surface of the water.
Resins and Balsams
Resin is usually a yellowish brown plant secretion of vegetable origin. Resins are soluble in Ether,
Alcohol, and Essential Oils, but not in water. Resins exude from trees along with Essential Oils,
Gums, etc, and are found in a liquid or semi-liquid state. They are composed of carbon,
hydrogen, and oxygen, and are supposed to be formed by the oxidation of the Essential Oils.
When mixed with Gum they form Gum Resins.
A Balsam is a solution of Resin in Essential Oil with a syrupy consistency. When a Balsam is
distilled in most cases a Resin and Essential Oil are produced (e.g. Gum Benzoin and Benzoin).
Balsams are alcohol soluble (96%), partially soluble in oil but difficult to dissolve in water. Types
of Balsam include Balsam Peru, Balsam Tolu and Galbanum Oil. Some of the Essential Oils
produced from Balsams include Myrrh, Frankincense and Benzoin.
8
Pigments
Pigments can be fat soluble, e.g. carotenoids, which are natural fat-soluble pigments found in
certain plants. Carotenoids, another name for carotenes, provide the bright red, orange, or
yellow coloration of many vegetables, serve as antioxidants, and can be a source for Vitamin A
activity.
Another fat-soluble pigment is xanthophyll, a yellow or orange pigment in plants that is

responsible for the production of carbohydrates by photosynthesis and when found in to be
found in certain plants in concentrations which produce certain pharmaceutical effects, as in
Marigold (Calendula). Other pigments are water soluble, e.g. chlorophyll, which in normal Herbal
Extracts has barely any effect on the skin.
Salicylic Acid
A glycoside, salicylic acid is a mild acid that works as a keratolytic agent i.e. it encourages the
sloughing of dead skin cells. It stimulates the peeling of the top layer of skin and the opening of
plugged follicles, which helps re-establish the normal skin-cell replacement cycle. For milder acne,
salicylic acid helps unclog pores to resolve and prevent lesions. Herbal Extracts containing
salicylic acid used topically in the right dosages have a pain-relieving, antibacterial effect.
Plants containing salicylic acid are mostly used internally for inflammations and externally in
liniments for rheumatic aches and muscle pain. The highest concentration of salicylic acid is to be
found in Wintergreen. Smaller quantities are found in plants like Meadowsweet and Willow Bark
in the form of phenol glycosides which become converted into salicylic acid in the body. Some
people are very sensitive to salicylics and can react strongly even to small doses.
Minerals
All plants contain different quantities of minerals. These can be extracted into water, for example
the silica from Horsetail and the iron from Stinging Nettles. Due to the size of their molecules,
Minerals are not always absorbed by unbroken skin. They can have a superficial, slight moisture-
binding effect and certain minerals such as silica can soothe itchiness.
Vitamins
Most of the B vitamins are water soluble. Vitamin C is water soluble but is altered when boiled.
Water-soluble vitamins do not penetrate very far into the skin. They can have a certain moisture-
binding effect. A and E vitamins are fat soluble and cannot be dissolved in water. In the quantities
in which they are to be found in the most common herbs, vitamins have hardly any effects on the
skin. The fat-soluble vitamins are very easily absorbed by the skin.
Proteins
Can have a certain moisture-binding effect on the skin. They do not penetrate the skin.
Enzymes
Become inert at temperatures between 50-70 ºC. They become altered when boiled.
Hormones
Most hormones are water soluble and tolerate heat. Other hormones such as oestrogen, e.g. in
Hops, are fat soluble and are best extracted into oil or alcohol. Fat-soluble hormones are easily
absorbed by the skin.
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The Skin…
The skin is a very important organ from the therapeutic and health and beauty standpoint.
The skin has two coats:
Epidermis – the outer layer of skin you can actually see. This layer consists of stratified
epithelium in two sub-layers: the outer layer of dead keratinised cells; and the inner layer, which
is composed of epidermal living cells, gradually growing outwards to form keratin. This inner
layer of the epidermis also contains melanocytes, which are responsible for producing the
pigment, which gives rise to the colour of your skin.
Dermis – the tough elastic layer that lies underneath the epidermis. Also known as the true
skin, it consists of an upper and lower dermis. Composed entirely of living cells, it consists of
bundles of tough elastin and collagen fibres which give your skin its elasticity, firmness and
strength. The dermis is also richly supplied with blood vessels and nerves, which feed vital
nutrients to feed the outer skin layer as well as regulating and facilitating body temperature.
The most important function of the dermis is respiration. The dermis also determines the tone of
the skin. The Lower Dermis is the innermost layer of the skin and where the various glands such
as the oil (sebum) and sweat glands originate. From here, they rise to the surface of the skin to
eliminate waste matter and also regulate temperature. The lower dermis also acts as a cushion
for the rest of the skin and contains the finely distributed muscles of the skin, which regulate
body temperature. Beneath these two coats lies a layer of fat cells, the Subcutaneous Layer.
The skin has a slightly acidic coating of oil at the surface. This coating protects the skin against
some bacteria. Below the surface is a complex of sweat and oil glands, hair follicles, blood vessels,
nerves, and muscle tissue. These are held together by tough connective tissue called collagen and
elastin.
Collagen and elastin are very important in determining the health of the skin. The relative
health of the collagen determines the contour of the skin, how wrinkled and lined it is. Healthy
collagen is often called soluble collagen, because it can absorb and hold moisture.
The problem of skin aging is not considered a medical problem. Since dermatology is restricted
to medical treatment in cases of skin diseases, cosmetics deal more with the maintenance and
improvement of skin condition.
The Hair...
The hair consists of modified eptihelium, growing from hair follicles in the skin. At the base of the
follicle, epithelial cells form the root, maintaining growth of hair. The sebaceous glands are small
saccular glands attached to the hair in the dermis. They secrete an oily substance called sebum,
which serves to lubricate the skin.
The Nails...
The nails are hard plates of modified epithelium, protecting the ends of fingers and toes. They
grow from the roots at the bases of the nails.
Note: Epithelium is a tissue composed of a layer of cells and can be found lining internal (e.g.
endothelium, which lines the inside of blood vessels) or external (e.g. skin) free surfaces of the
body. Functions of epithelial cells include secretion, absorption and protection.
10
How to prepare your Herbs for use in

Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care products...
In this Guide you may find that I ask you to add a ‘Herbal Infusion’, a ‘Herbal Decoction’, or ‘CO2
Extract’ of a certain herb as one of the ingredients in your products such as Shampoos, Creams,
Skin Toners, Pet Care products, Ointments, Hair Treatments, Toothpastes, etc. In addition, you
may be asked to make a ‘Poultice’ or a ‘Compress’. Below you will find definitions of these terms
and, if appropriate, how to prepare them.
Infusions
An Infusion is made like a tea. If using a Herbal Infusion instead of boiling water in your Recipe,
make it as follows: Allow 2-3g dried herbs per 100ml water (please note that sometimes the
amount of dried herb used will vary according to strength needed). Pour boiling water over the
herbs. Cover and allow to stand for 10-20 minutes. Strain and use according to the Method in
the Recipe.
Decoctions
When using Horsetail, or the tougher parts of a plant like the roots, seeds, berries or the bark of
a plant, make a Decoction rather than an Infusion. Making a Decoction involves boiling the herbs.
Put around 2-3g or more of the dried, or 20-30g of the fresh, herb parts into 100ml of water and
cover the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and continue to boil for about twenty minutes.
You may need to add a bit more water if steam escapes. Steep and strain the mixture and use
according to the Method in the Recipe. When making Decoctions and Infusions do not use an
aluminium pan – use a stainless steel, glass, ceramic or enamel (make sure it’s not chipped,
though) pan.
How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your Recipes...

You can replace the water content in your Cream, Lotion, Foam Bath, Gel, Shampoo, and
Conditioner Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion. Infusions and Decoctions are usually
added to the Recipe at the Water Stage of making Creams and Lotions. Don’t use Infusions or
Decoctions in Ointment Recipes – use the Tincture and/or Essential Oil and CO2 Extract instead.
Use the Infusion or Decoction as it is, or combined with other ingredients, for Wound Washes,
Mouth Washes, Eye Baths or Washes, Compresses, and in Whole Body Baths. See individual
herb listings for any variations, as well as for the strength of Infusions and Decoctions.
, Higher amounts of Preservatives are needed when using Herbal Infusions & Decoctions
You need to double the amount of Preservative in your product when you substitute Herbal
Infusions for Boiling Spring Water in Recipes that contain Boiling Spring Water. Because
natural herbs are not radiated, they naturally carry bacteria and fungi. For this reason, use
0.8% of Parabens, or 1.2g of Preservative K, if using a Herbal Infusion or Decoction in your
products. Please note that Sodium benzoate is an inappropriate Preservative to use in
products that contain Herbal Infusions and Decoctions as you would have to use a very large
amount of it for it to work effectively.
, Do not double the amounts of Preservatives found in this Guide as they have already been
adjusted!
- 11 -
Tinctures...
A Tincture is an extraction of a fresh or dried herb using alcohol. The alcohol serves two
purposes: preservation and extraction of active, healing ingredients in the herb. When using these
in your Recipes, you do not have to make an Infusion or Decoction, just follow the instructions
on the Recipe for how much to add and when.
You can make Tinctures using any part of the plant that is appropriate for your use e.g. roots,
leaves, flowers, etc. Simply chop up the herb or part of herb and pack it in a jar half filled with the
strongest vodka you can buy. Use 80-100g fresh herbs, or 8-10g dried herbs to 150ml alcohol.
Seal the jar and leave it in on a sunny windowsill for 2-3 days. Then store in a dark place at room
temperature for 2-3 weeks, shaking it every day. Strain through muslin cloth and store in a dark
bottle. The Tincture will keep for 2-3 years.
Of course, you don’t have to make your own Tinctures; they are available to buy from health
food shops, herbalists and other suppliers such as Aromantic. (See list at the end of the book.)
, When making a Tincture it is important to make sure that the alcohol totally covers the herbs.
Add more alcohol if necessary.
How to use Tinctures in your Recipes
You can replace some of the water in your Cream, Lotion, Gel, Foam Bath, Shampoo and
Conditioner Recipes with up to 10% of a Tincture. Use up to 10% in Ointments, Wound
Washes, Mouth Washes, about 5% Compresses and 1-2% in Eye Baths/Washes. For Whole Body
Baths, use about 15ml for the whole bath. Note: Some Mouth Wash Recipes require more than
10% of the Tincture. See individual herb listings for any variations.
Herbal CO2 Extracts...

Not all of our ‘Herbal’ CO2 Extracts are herbs, some are plants, so should rightly be called
Botanical CO2 Extracts. Whatever we call them, they have healing and beneficial properties that
make them ideal for making powerful, effective and healing Natural Skin, Body and Hair Care
products. In the cosmetic field, CO2 Extracts are used as bioactive components in Creams, Skin
Oils, Body Milks and Lotions, Before and After Sun products, etc. Supercritical CO2 fluid
extraction is an established process for the decaffeination of tea and coffee, as well as for hop
ingredients, of perfumery and aromatherapy.
Botanical CO2 Extracts are becoming more and more popular. The intention is to eliminate
harmful organic solvents used in the past for the production of oil-loving Botanical Extracts, to
avoid environmental pollution and to have a high grade extract composition very close to the
natural raw material. They are free of any solvent residues and diluting agents and are composed
almost exclusively of the raw material's ingredients without any dilution and accordingly can be
used in a fairly low dosage. This low dosage means that a high quality, active cosmetic product
can be created at a reduced cost. For more information about the Botanical CO2 Extracts please
see Aromantic’s Education Pack 2.
How to use Botanical CO2 Extracts in your products
Add 1-3% to your products. If using more than one CO2 Extract, the total percentage used in
your product doesn’t need to exceed 6%. CO2 Extracts can be added even when you have
already used Infusions, Decoctions or Tinctures to your product. They will greatly enhance the
benefits of the product.
12
Hydrolates...
Herbal and Floral Waters, also known as Hydrosols or Hydrolates, are by-products of the
process of making Essential Oils. During that process, the herbs and flowers are distilled with
Spring Water. The water is heated and presses itself through the plants as vapour, which collects
the Essential Oils and other ingredients present. The Essential Oils - which float on the surface of
the water - are removed, leaving the Herbal or Floral Water, which contains a small quantity of
Essential Oil and other water-soluble agents from the plant. Nothing else, e.g. Preservative, is
added.
, Some companies add up to 10% alcohol to preserve the Hydrolate.
How to use Hydrolates in your products
Hydrolates can sometimes be used as they are, as Skin Toners, Facial Cleansers, Hair Rinses, for
Aromatic Baths, Baby Baths, on Compresses or in Sprays for freshening up the skin. They can
also be used to replace, or partially replace, water in various Skin Care products along with other
ingredients, in e.g. Skin Toners, Facial Cleansers, Face Masks, Creams, Lotions or Shampoos.
, Some Hydrolates are too strong to use undiluted – please follow the Recipes.
Macerated Herb Oils...

Dried or fresh plant material (fresh plants are best because volatile oils are still intact) is
macerated by being steeped in a Vegetable Oil and agitated (shaken vigorously) daily for anything
from several days to 6 weeks. An effective method is to leave the jar or bottle in the sun for 3-4
days and then storing it in the dark for the rest of the maceration period. Plant material is then
removed by filtering the Oil, leaving the Oil with some of the therapeutic constituents and
properties of the plant material, including traces of Essential Oils, and even the colour of the
plant material.
Examples of Macerated Oils commonly available are: St. John's Wort Oil; Carrot Oil; Marigold
Oil; Arnica Oil; Aloe Vera Oil; Comfrey Oil; Chamomile Oil; and others. Macerated Oils should
not be confused with Essential Oils. Most Macerated Oils contain extracts of these plants in a
Vegetable Oil base such as Sunflower, Sesame, Olive, Peanut or Soy Oil. None of these plants
contain Essential Oils in any significant quantities when prepared this way, which their price
should reflect.
In the case of St. John's Wort, Chamomile, Marigold and Arnica the flowers are steeped in Oil
and the fat-soluble ingredients 'migrate' from the plant to the Oil. In Carrot Oil, various extracts
from the Carrot are mixed with a Base Oil.

, It is very important to make sure that the Vegetable Oil is covering all of the parts of the fresh
or dried herbs you are using to make the Macerated Oil.
- 13 -
Other ways to use Herbs for Health, Healing and Beauty...
Herbal Teas – Internal use
Make an Infusion or Decoction and drink when cool enough to do so.
, If unsure whether to take any herb, please consult your doctor or find a qualified medical
herbalist in your area. There are many herbs that are not suitable for use during pregnancy,
especially herbs that are abortifacients, emmenagogues and strong laxatives. Please make sure
that you check with an appropriate authoritative guide or consult a medical herbalist. As a
general guideline, don’t take the same herb internally for more than 2 weeks in a row. You can
alternate it with another herb.
Herbal Baths – Whole Body, Foot and Hand
Method 1 - The simplest way is to make a strong Infusion or Decoction of herbs and allow it to
stand for 20-30 minutes. Once strained, this can be added to the bath water or water you’re
using for your Foot or Hand Bath.
Method 2 - You can also place the herbs in the bath. This method is preferable for the use of
such herbs as Plantain and Lady's Mantle for the treatment of eczema and itchiness. When placing
the herbs directly into the bath, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the herbs, leave for 10
minutes, before adjusting the temperature to allow the person to enter the bath. The person
should stay in the bath for at least 20 minutes, adding more hot water if necessary in order to
keep the water as hot as possible. The person should not rinse or towel-dry the body and should
allow the body to air-dry instead.
Method 3 - Place fresh or dried herbs in a muslin bag, tie the bag up with string and place in the
bath. As in the above example, pour 5-10 litres of boiling water over the bag, wait ten minutes
and then follow the same procedure as above.
Method 4 - To use herbs in your Foam Bath Recipes, make a strong Infusion or Decoction of
the herbs and strain them.
Quantities of herbs to Use in Herbal Baths
For a Whole Body Bath use approximately 50-100g of dried herbs or 500-1000g fresh herbs. For
a Foot or Hand Bath use 15-20g of dried herbs or 150-200g of fresh herbs.
If using Method 1 above to make an Infusion or a Decoction, then use:

1 litre of water per 15-20g of dried herbs
2-3 litres water per 150-200g of fresh herbs
3 litres of water per 40-50g of dried herbs
6-7 litres water per 400-500g fresh herb
After letting it stand, you would strain it and add the resulting Infusion or Decoction to the Bath.
Tips
x You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers
or leaves or roots you are using.
x Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.
14
Base Recipe for Foam Baths

(This Recipe makes approximately 1 litre.)
200-250ml of Foam Bath Emulsifier

750-800ml Boiling Water/or Boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction
1 teaspoon (5ml) of Preservative (or double if using Herbal Infusions or Decoctions)
10-20ml Essential Oils (Maximum 2%)
If using Preservative K, add 1 teaspoon Lactic Acid (or 2 teaspoons if using 2 teaspoons
of Preservative K)
Method for making Foam Baths
1. Measure the Foam Bath Emulsifier in a measuring jug and pour into an oven-proof bowl.
2. Measure the boiling water or boiling Herbal Infusion or Decoction and pour into the bowl
with the Foam Bath Emulsifier.
3. Add the Preservative. Stir well until the mixture becomes thick.
4. Place the bowl in a sink of very cold water, stirring the mixture occasionally.
5. When it is cooled to below 30°C, blend in your own Essential Oils and add Lactic Acid if
using Preservative K.
6. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature and then, if you prefer, add more cold
water to achieve the consistency you require.
7. Pour into bottles and label.
Adding Essential Oils to Foam Bath Recipes
Adding different types of Essential Oil blends to your Foam Bath will affect the consistency of
your Foam Bath. Adjust once made by: adding more Foam Bath Emulsifier if too thin; or more
cold water if too thick. The next time you make the same Recipe, adjust your Recipe so that you
add more Foam Bath Emulsifier or water, whatever the case may be, from the start.
When using Essential Oils in your Baths, it is important that the Essential Oils are dispersed
evenly throughout the whole bath and that the drops are not floating on the surface. This
ensures that the Essential Oils penetrate the skin correctly. This is especially important for
sensitive skin types or with conditions such as eczema. Using Essential Oils in Foam Baths is the
easiest way to ensure that they are evenly dispersed in the bath.
Quantities of herbs to use in your Foam Bath Recipes
To make the Infusion or Decoction to use in your Foam Bath Recipe, use approximately 1 litre
per 15-20g of dried herbs or approximately 3 litres of water per 150-200g of fresh herbs for each
1 litre of Foam Bath that you are making.
Tips
x When boiling or infusing your herbs, you need to start off with more water than your
eventual Recipe states you need of an Infusion or Decoction as water will evaporate or be
absorbed by the herb, e.g. if you need a 65ml Decoction, you may need to use 100ml
water.
x You may need to adjust the water you are using according to the volume of fresh flowers
or leaves or roots you are using.
x Please follow instructions for exact amount listed under each herb in this Guide.
- 15 -
Tips for Bath Treatments and skin problems
When using Baths to treat specialised skin problems such as eczema it is important to start with
calming herbs such as Chamomile. This is especially important if the skin is very infected. You can
use Chamomile in your Baths for a whole week, but if using other herbs, use them only for one
night at a time and alternate with one or more herbs.
After using the Chamomile or other calming herbs, you can continue with a drawing and
activating herb such as Wild Pansy and then alternate with Chickweed, for example, if the
problem is itchy skin or eczema.
Eye Baths
You can buy plastic Eye Bath cups from the local pharmacy and put the Infusion, Decoction or
diluted Tincture (1-2% diluted in water e.g. 1-2ml of the Tincture in 100ml of water) in the cup
before placing the eye over the cup and tilting the head back to wash the eye. Make sure you
have covered the neck and chest area with a towel or something similar as the liquid will run
down your face.
, Never use hot liquid in your Eye Bath – make sure the liquid is cold, cool or lukewarm.
Herbal Facial Steams
Boil water and add enough to almost fill a plastic, ceramic or stainless steel basin. Add a few
pinches of the dried herbs of your choice to the water in the basin and allow to draw for a few
minutes. Sit at a table with a towel over your head and cover the basin of hot water in front of
you. Keep your head at a comfortable distance above the water so the steam reaches your face.
Sit for 5-10 minutes with your head in the 'tent' and allow the herbs and the steam to do their
work. Essential Oils can be used instead of herbs. You can use the bathroom sink instead of a
basin – just take a chair into the bathroom so that you can sit comfortably while taking the
steam.
Skin Toners...
Base Toner Recipe
(Makes approximately 250ml)
5 drops Essential Oil

20ml Herbal Tincture
10-20 ml Moisturiser – either Glycerine, Honey Moisturiser, Sorbitol or NFF Moisturiser
210ml Still Water, Aloe Vera, Water or Hydrosols
General Method for making Toners
1. Blend all of the ingredients together in the order of the Recipe into a bottle.
2. Shake the bottle every time you add a new raw material.
3. Top up with Still Water, Hydrolate or Infusion. Use the different Hydrolates, Tinctures,
Essential Oils or other Active Ingredients which suit you best.
Note: The shelf life of the Toners in this Guide without added Preservatives is 6 months. If
Preservatives are added, the shelf life is increased to 2 years. Simply add 10 extra drops of
Preservative per 100ml of any Still Water added. If using Preservative K, add 1g of Lactic Acid at
the end of your Recipe.
16
Compresses, Poultices and Plasters...

Compresses, Poultices and Plasters are an excellent way to apply a treatment externally to a
specific part of the body. This reduces the necessity for internal medication.
Compresses
There are three main types of Compresses: Hot; Cold (varying from room temperature to ice
cold); and Heating Compresses. There are also many different ways of applying Compresses, such
as using botanical material itself e.g. Plantain leaf; dipping a cotton cloth in an Infusion, Decoction,
Tincture (5% diluted in water) and then applying it to the affected area; using Clay; herbal tea
bags; dried herbs, etc. Essential Oils are also often mixed with these substances to be used in a
Compress.
Cold Compresses
Cold Compresses (room temperature) are used on wounds, eczema, psoriasis and similar
problems where the skin is broken (not inflamed). Cold Compresses (ice cold) can help relieve
the pain of gout and minimise swelling from bruises and sprains. Ice cold Compresses can also be
used to prevent or relieve congestion and to reduce blood flow to an area. Experts suggest
limiting ice cold applications to 20 minutes at a time to prevent damage to the skin.
How to prepare a Cold Compress
Follow the methods for Wet or Dry Compresses below. For Sprains and Bruises you can wrap a
pack of frozen peas with cotton cloth and apply to affected area. You can also add ice cubes to
your Infusion, etc. to make it colder.
Hot Compresses
Hot Compresses are used when the skin is not broken, for example with rheumatism, sprains,
inflammations, accidents, pains and swellings (but not to treat shingles). Hot Compresses can also
be used to lessen the discomfort of menstrual cramps and irritable bowel syndrome, and to
increase blood flow to a particular part of the body. Large Hot Compresses applied to the chest
are also helpful for respiratory problems. Smaller Hot Compresses are used for localised pain
relief from muscle spasms and certain types of arthritis.
, Remember: never use Hot Compresses on broken skin.
How to prepare a Hot Compress
Follow the ‘Method for Wet Compresses’ below.
Heating Compresses
Combining the basic Cold Compress Method with adding extra insulating layers over it, you can
make a Heating Compress. The body will gradually warm the Compress and the transition from
cold to warm adds to the therapeutic value. They are left in place until the body's heat warms
them, usually for several hours or overnight.
Used for sore throats, ear infections, chest colds, joint pain and digestive problems, the Heating
Compress creates soothing warmth in the affected area and attracts an influx of nutrient- and
oxygen-rich blood to speed healing.
- 17 -
How to prepare a Heating Compress
A Heating Compress can be a Dry or Wet Compress. For a Dry Heating Compress see ‘Method
for Dry Compresses’ below. For a Wet Heating Compress see ‘Method for Wet Compresses’
below.
How to Make a Compress
You will need:

A cotton/muslin cloth 30x50 cm for suitable Compress for chest, throat, knee, elbow
Compress or tube bandage for smaller Compresses
Clingfilm (never use tape or clingfilm directly on the skin)
Surgical tape or freezer tape
Elastic Bandage
Woollen cloth (for Heating Compress)
Method for Dry Compresses
1 2 3 4
1. Spread a cotton or muslin cloth approximately 30x50cm on a clean and smooth surface.
Evenly place 35-50g of the dried herb in the middle of the cotton cloth (see Fig 1). Then
cover with clingfilm.
2. Fold each side of the cloth over the content (Fig 2).
3. Lastly tape everything so the content is secure (Fig 3).
4. Place the Compress on the area to be treated with the cloth side towards the skin (Fig 4).
The clingfilm is facing out, so the healing content is close to the skin. Wrap around with an
elastic bandage and secure with tape.
5. You can also add a last layer of insulating material, such as a woollen scarf to create a Dry
Heating Compress.
Method for Wet Compresses
1. Make a strong Infusion, Decoction or use a Tincture (mostly diluted but not always,
depending on the use and the herb) of your selected herb/s.
2. Soak a clean cotton or muslin cloth in either a hot or cold (depending on the use) Infusion,
Decoction, Tincture, Hydrolate, Water, etc. and then squeeze out the cloth so that the
desired amount of liquid remains in the cloth.
3. Apply gently and loosely to the affected area of the body.
4. Now, you can either go directly to step 5 below or continue by soaking the cloth in the
herbal solution every 15-30 minutes and applying it to the body. Repeat as often as
necessary.
5. Wrap the soaked cloth over the affected area and cover the cloth and area with clingfilm.
6. Then secure both the cloth and the clingfilm with a stretch bandage.
7. Discard the solution.
8. To make a Heating Compress of a Cold Wet Compress or to keep your Hot Compress
warm, add a layer of insulating material, such as a woollen scarf between the clingfilm layer
and the stretch bandage. You can also keep a Hot Compress Warm by placing a hot water
bottle on the bandaged area.
18
Kolbjorn’s Tips for Compresses
x When onion is used in a Compress, it is important that it doesn’t come in direct contact
with the skin; put it in a cotton cloth.
x Never use raw garlic in a Compress. If you want to use garlic, then crush the garlic and mix
into a vegetable oil, leaving it for 3-4 days and shaking twice a day on those days. Strain
twice, making sure no bits of garlic are left in the oil. Soak a cotton cloth in the oil and use
according to the instruction for Wet Compresses.
x Never use Hot Compresses on wounds, as the ingredients will be absorbed into the body.
As a rule Compresses should be left on the person overnight, but not for more than 8-10
hours at a time. However, if the area of the body starts to itch under the Compress,
remove it immediately. This will apply more specifically to children or when the Compress
contains onions or arnica or when it is being used on burns.
x Compresses on a wounded surface can first appear much worse. This is because the
Compress draws out pus and impurities through the wound. Change the Compress often,
wash and clean the area with a strong Chamomile Infusion. You will soon see a big
improvement and the wound will heal.
x Don’t use the same type of herb in your Compress two nights in a row, alternate with
different types herbs in your Compresses. An exception is the Dry Chamomile Compress,
which you can use every night for up to a week. You can make a Chamomile Heating
Compress (see ‘Method for Dry Compresses’ opposite) using dried Chamomile flowers
and place a hot water bottle on top of the woollen material if you wish.
Poultices...
A Poultice is a wad of chopped, fresh plant material that is applied directly to a wound or
infection on the skin and usually held in place by a Wet Compress that is covered by a bandage.
Poultices & Plasters
Poultices and Plasters are used much like Compresses except they are made with fresh (or dried,
but re-moistened), solid herbal or plant material rather than an Infusion or Decoction. Poultices
are generally a wad of bruised or chopped plant material applied topically to an area of the body,
such as a wound or infection. Poultices work primarily at the application site, typically preventing
infection and hastening the healing of wounds. But there are doubtless many compounds in
Poultice plants that pass through the skin and have internal benefits as well.
They become Plasters when using finely ground herbs or adding ingredients such as cornmeal or
wheat flour to assist their cohesiveness. Generally Plasters are placed in layers of thin material to
protect the skin as well. Plasters tend to be stronger in nature and should be monitored to avoid
any skin reactions to strong herbs such as garlic or mustard. It is advisable to massage oil over
the skin prior to placement of the Plaster.
Both Plasters and Poultices are wonderful for their action of ‘drawing out’ toxins.
You can bandage and cover a Poultice in the same way as you might with a Compress (described
in section on Compresses on page 18).
, When using Baths, Compresses and Poultices to treat skin conditions such as eczema or
psoriasis, it is very important to start with calming or soothing herbs e.g. Chamomile Baths
and Compresses for a week. Then you can continue the treatment with herbs which have
properties of drawing out infections, e.g. Wild Pansy.
- 19 -
Gels...
Recipes for Gels are beyond the scope of this Guide and can be found in other Aromantic
Guides. Always remember that if you add any alcohol-based herbal preparations, such as
Tinctures, to your Gel, you should compensate for the drying effect of the alcohol by adding 3-
4% Vegetable Oil to your Recipe.
Creams...
You can replace the water content in your Cream Recipes with a Herbal Decoction or Infusion
or replace some of the water with up to 10% of the Tincture. We have included the basic Recipe
for Herbal Cream, as well as the Method for making all Creams below. This Cream is especially
suitable for Dry or Mature skin, but can be used for all skin types except oily skin. Refer to
Aromantic’s Education Pack 1 for further Cream, and Lotion Recipes, as well as for
troubleshooting tips. Note: Adding herbal infusions or Decoctions to your Creams, Lotions and
Gels will discolour these products. Carotene is used in the Recipe below to colour the Cream in
order to mask the less attractive colouring caused by the herbs.
Herbal Cream Recipe
(Makes 100gr/ml of Cream. Multiply if you want to make larger quantities e.g. x10 for 1 litre of
Cream.)
Fat Stage
2g Cocoa Butter
3ml Olive Oil
7ml Almond Oil
3ml Thistle Oil
2g Cetyl Alcohol
2.5g VE Emulsifier
Water Stage
4.5g MF Emulsifier
70ml Boiling Infusion and/or Decoction of herbs of your choice
2ml Glycerine (Moisturiser)
20 drops Preservative
2 drops Carotene
Third Stage
0.5ml Vitamin E
2ml/g NFF Moisturiser
[10ml Herbal Tincture of your choice - optional]
, If using the Herbal Tincture mentioned in the Third Stage above, then reduce the Boiling
Infusion/Decoction in the Water Stage to 60ml. Because of tinctures’ dissolving properties,
you must also add an extra 0.5g VE Emulsifier as well as 0.5g MF Emulsifier to your recipe.
Fourth Stage
20 drops Essential Oil
(0.5g/10-12 drops Lactic Acid – if using Preservative K as your Preservative)
, If you wish to make the Dry Skin Care Cream fluffier, add 20-30 ml Aloe Vera Gel to this
amount of Cream and reduce the Boiling Spring Water accordingly.
(See Aromantic’s Recipe Brochure: How to make Gels.)
20
Basic Method for making all Creams
1. Fat Stage: Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double

boiler until all of the ingredients have melted and the
temperature has risen to 75-80°C. There is no need to
use a whisk at this stage.
2. Water Stage: After carefully straining the Infusion or

Decoction, measure it according to the Recipe and
pour it over the MF Emulsifier, the Glycerine, and the
Preservative, which you have put into a separate
double boiler. Heating the Fat and Water Stages
3. Whisk the Water Stage ingredients well together,

making sure that the MF Emulsifier powder is fully
dissolved in the water and that you don’t have any
lumps. Then allow the mixture to heat to 75-80°C.
4. When both Fat and Water Stages are over 75°C

(check with a thermometer), remove both double
boilers from the hob, keeping the Water Stage mixture
hot by leaving it on the top half of the double boiler.
Mixing the Fat and Water Stages
5. Now pour the melted Fat Stage into the Water Stage
in a thin, steady stream, while continuously whisking
the mixture from side to side for 5 minutes. If
necessary, use a spatula to scrape the mixture from
the sides of the saucepan (or bowl).
6. Allow the mixture to cool, stirring all the time. You

can speed up by the cooling process by replacing the
hot water in the double boiler with very COLD water.
In the process of cooling down, the mixture becomes
a Cream and will reach its thickest consistency when it
is has cooled down to room temperature. Pouring the Cream into a jar
7. Third Stage: Stir in the Third Stage ingredients when

the mixture has cooled to under 40C.
8. Fourth Stage: Continue stirring until the mixture has

cooled to under 25°C, then thoroughly mix in the
Essential Oils.
9. Pour the Cream into one big jar or smaller jars and
label.
- 21 -
Ointments...
Ointments are used to protect the skin. They are for use on dry, cracked skin and for minor
injuries to the skin. To make Ointments you will need a stainless steel saucepan, a bowl, a whisk,
a spatula, and a thermometer (optional, up to 110°C) as well as the ingredients.
A simple Base Ointment can be made from Vegetable Oils and Beeswax. The Vegetable Oils
nourish the skin while at the same time softening and protecting it. The Beeswax protects the
skin while giving the Ointment its consistency.
The more Beeswax you add, the harder the Ointment will be and the more Vegetable Oil you
add, the softer it will be.
Base Ointment Recipe
(Makes 100g/ml.)
15g Beeswax
85ml Vegetable Oil of your choice (e.g. Sweet Almond Oil*)
* There are many Vegetable Oils to choose from, everything from a simple Olive or
Sunflower Oil to a more luxurious Avocado, Apricot Kernel or Peach Kernel Oil.
Method for making Base Ointments
1. Melt the Beeswax and Vegetable Oil together in a double boiler.

2. When the Beeswax is completely melted, remove the bowl or saucepan the ingredients are
in from the double boiler.
3. Whisk the Ointment until it has cooled to approximately 40-45°C.
4. Whisk, or stir in, appropriate active raw materials such as Tinctures (up to 15%);
Botanical CO2 Extracts; Vitamins (A &E); and Essential Oils. Remember to reduce the
amount of Vegetable Oil in your Recipe accordingly.
5. Pour into jars.
Shampoos, Conditioners,Toothpastes, Deodorants and Insect

Repellents...
Recipes for these products are beyond the scope of this Guide and can be found in other
Aromantic literature. Simply replace the water in the recipes found in those Guides with Herbal
Infusions, Decoctions, or Tinctures, whichever is specified in the entries for each herb listed in
this Guide.
22
Aloe
Aloe barbadensis
(Although not strictly a herb, we have included

Aloe Vera because of its many useful properties
for Skin, Hair, Body and Pet Care.)
Aloe was also mentioned in ancient Chinese
Synonyms: Barbados Aloe, Coastal Aloe, transcripts. It was used for eczema in China
Curaçao Aloe, Indian Aloe, Jaffarabad Aloe, under the name ‘lu hui’ and in India under the
Medicinal Aloe, Mediterranean Aloe, Star name ‘musabbar’.
Cactus, True Aloe (Aloe Vera), West Indian Aloe was also mentioned in the writings of the
Aloe. well-known Latin writer, Aurelius Celsus, in
Parts used: Gel from the leaves (can be the year 1378. In America, Aloe was
grown as a pot plant). mentioned in Columbus' journals. The earliest
record of using Aloe's bitter material as a drug
Traditional use & history, description in America was 1697. Central and South
and properties: Also known as Aloe Vera, American Indians used it to treat burns,
the clear Gel of this plant has been used kidney and bladder infections, dysentery,
medicinally since the time of the ancient stomach and intestinal disorders.
Egyptians. The bitter yellow aloe latex
obtained from the base of the leaves has also Description & properties: Aloe plants
been used as a traditional remedy for belong to the liliaceae family which contains
constipation and used on warts. over 200 ‘genera’. Aloe, with its different
species composes 1/10th the size of the lily
Ancient records of the Egyptians, family. Aloe can be separated into two basic
Arab, African, Asians and Americans have products: a gel, which is pressed out from the
discussed the different uses and pathological core of the leaves; and a latex, which is a
cases in which Aloes were administered. The sticky, bitter yellow exudate from just below
Arabs had taken Aloe Vera plants to India and the outer skin of the leaves often called Aloe
the Indian people called it ‘savari’, a name juice. A powerful laxative called aloin is found
from which the name ‘savila’’ (Spanish for Aloe in the juice of the Aloe leaf, but only found in
Vera) might have been derived. The Indians, small quantities in the Gel.
who use it as one of the Ayurvedic medicinal
herbs, named Aloe ‘ailwa’, from which the A note of clarification: when I refer to Aloe
Greek word ‘alon’ might have been derived. Vera Gel, I am referring to a Skin Gel made
with Aloe Vera Concentrate (from the
substance called Gel, which is pressed from
the Aloe leaves and 90% of its water content
removed) added to a Thickening Agent;
Water; and other ingredients to reconstitute
it.
The enzymes contained in the Gel are affected

by heating above 70ºC. The fresh leaves and
liquid Gels or Extracts are more effective than
the powdered, dehydrated Aloe, which is
heated. Aloe Gel can be bought in health food
shops and the quality will depend on where it
is made. Often Guar Gum, Xanthan Gum or
extra glucomannan is added to create the
correct consistency.
Aloe barbadensis
- 23 -
Main constituents: 96% water, lignin, Internal use: Aloe Vera has many uses
saponins, anthraquines, carbohydrate internally, such as for treating: constipation;
glucomannans (of particular importance is indigestion; diarrhoea and other intestinal
acemannan), tannins, steroids, enzymes, problems; low energy; cancer; ulcers;
growth hormones, aloin, glucommannans, hangovers; diabetes; diverticulosis;
salicylic acid, and fatty acids. Aloe Vera also diverticulitis and peptic ulcers; sore and
contains twenty amino acids (including all eight bleeding gums; fungal growth such as Candida
essential amino acids), at least nine minerals albicans; asthma; heartburn; haemorrhoids;
i.e. calcium, sodium, iron, potassium, zinc, ulcers; and to speed up and improve general
chromium, magnesium, manganese and healing, to name but a few.
copper, and a number of vitamins, including
B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, A, C, E, folic acid, and Pet Care: Cuts and scrapes: Freshly cut
choline. Aloe or Aloe Vera Gel is an excellent
application for cuts and scrapes. It is a natural
External use for Skin, Hair and Body antiseptic, and will keep the area moist until
products: A lot of research has been done the cut can heal. Skin problems: Aloe Vera
on Aloe Vera and clearly shows that the Gel: is an excellent preparation to use for skin
has anti-inflammatory properties; reduces conditions such as allergies, abscesses, fungal
scarring in burns; skin ulcers and other infections, pyoderma, and many types of
lesions; relieves pain from sunburn and burns dermatitis. Wounds and Burns: These
and helps these to heal quickly by stimulating respond particularly well to Aloe Vera. Aloe
fibroblast and connective tissue formation, and Vera can aid the natural healing processes and
by stimulating the epidermal growth and help to keep the wound or burn moist and
repair process; has rejuvenating effects; and supplied with nutrients. Internal use: The
has also been shown to have an invigorating Aloe Vera Gel can be used for stomach
effect on skin when applied on a regular basis. problems and digestive upsets.
It is an excellent emollient, making it soothing
and calming to the skin, is antiseptic and Usage and preparation of Aloe Vera in
antibacterial, acting against a number of your products:
different bacteria and fungi (staphylococci,
streptococci, salmonella and Candida albicans). For healing purposes, add up to 10% Aloe
Concentrate to Creams, Lotions, Gels, Pre-
Aloe Vera is used in Skin Care products that and After-Sun Protection products, Shampoos,
help to treat: Sunburn; overexposure to Conditioners, Toothpastes, Mouth Washes
radiation (it also helps to protect against solar and Gargles, Vaginal Douches, Skin Toners,
radiation); burns; scars on the skin; irritation and Baby products.
of the skin; nappy rash; acne spots; small
sores; haemorrhoids (piles); herpes; shingles; For how to make your own Aloe Vera Gel from
insect bites; eczema; psoriasis; wounds; 1:9 Liquid Aloe Vera Concentrate, refer to
varicose ulcers; and other sores which are Aromantic’s Education Pack 1.
slow to heal; itchy scalp; and dandruff,.
Aloe Vera Gel can be used in the following

Skin, Hair and Body Care products:
Compresses; Poultices and Plasters – use the
Gel, or the fresh botanical material; Lotions;
Creams; Pre- and After-Sun Protection
products; directly on the skin; Shampoos;
Gels; Mouth Washes and Gargles;
Toothpastes; Vaginal Douches; Toners and
Facial Sprays; and Baby products.
24
Arnica
Arnica montana
Synonyms: Leopard’s bane. crushing. Also good for pulled muscles and
torn ligaments, for gout, lumbago and
Parts used: Flowers and roots. rheumatic ailments.
Traditional use & history, description Arnica montana contains 10 different

and properties: Arnica montana or constituents (including the immuno-stimulant
Leopard's Bane is a perennial herb, indigenous Helenalin, its most active sesquiterpene
to Central Europe, in woods and mountain lactone), which have anti-inflammatory and
pastures, and also native to Siberia and North pain-relieving effects. The plant’s Essential Oils
West North America. It has also been found (which are antiseptic and anti-inflammatory)
in England and southern Scotland, but it is and carotene promote healing. The Essential
probably not indigenous to Britain. Oil stimulates the mopping up and
reabsorption of blood from the bruised tissue
In countries where Arnica is indigenous, it has and hastens the replacement of damaged
long been a popular remedy for bruises, tissue with new cells.
wounds, pain, swellings, rheumatic pain, the
pain and inflammation of phlebitis and similar Main constituents: Essential Oils and
conditions. In North America the flowers are volatile oils, containing thymol and various
used in preference to the roots. Arnica has ethers of thymol, which are mostly found in
been used extensively in folk medicine. The the roots and root stock; sesquiterpene
German philosopher and poet Goethe (1749- lactones; mucilage and polysaccharides; and
1832), claimed that Arnica helped to ease his other substances such as resins, bitters
angina in old age. (arnicin), tannins and carotenes.
Whilst the internal use of Arnica is restricted For external use: Arnica is used almost
to homoeopathic use as it is potentially toxic, exclusively in Tincture form and then mainly in
the herb provides us with one of the best a Compress, Cream or Ointment. Arnica
remedies for external local healing and is Tincture must always be diluted in some way,
mainly used in a Compress for bruises, as prolonged contact with the skin can cause
swellings, inflammations and other tissue severe redness and tissue damage and must
damage caused by sprains, bumps, bangs and not be used on broken skin or open wounds.
Arnica Tincture should be diluted with up to 9

parts water (use approximately 10%) and the
Compress dipped into this and then applied
wet to the affected area. This should be held
in place with a cloth bandage. Do not use any
plastics as it is important that the area should
not be made airtight. The bandage should be
changed regularly, as soon as it dries.
For more comprehensive instructions, follow the

Method for Wet Compresses on page 18.
Arnica montana
- 25 -
For acutely inflamed haemorrhoids, use Cold
Arnica Compresses and replace these hourly. Arnica Recipes
You can also add the Tincture or Infusion to
Creams and Lotions or the Tincture to Arnica Compress
Ointments. Arnica Cream or Lotion is a Use on sprains, bruises, swollen skin, pains,
favourite of athletes and others participating in and herpes blisters. Using Arnica on burns
active sports. increases the bleeding-through and reduces
scar formation.
Homoeopathic Arnica can be taken internally
to promote healing from bruising, sprains, , The skin should not be in contact with
inflammations, internal injuries and also for Arnica for more than 6 hours a day as any
shock and trauma. longer contact can create skin irritation.
Never take Arnica internally, except in
Pet Care: Use Arnica externally for bruises, homoeopathic doses.
wounds, contusions, etc in the same way as
for humans – in Compresses, Ointments, You will need:
Creams, etc.
50ml warm water at blood temperature, 37°C
, Remember not to apply Arnica products to 1 teaspoon Arnica Tincture
an open wound or broken skin.
Method
Homoeopathic Arnica can be given to animals
internally to promote healing from bruising, Follow the Method for Wet Compresses
inflammations, sprains, internal injuries and described on pg 18 and also follow the
also for shock and trauma. instructions in step 8 for keeping Hot
Compresses warm.
Usage and preparation of Arnica in your
products: Arnica Healing Ointment
The Tincture can be made with fresh or dried Stage 1 15g Beeswax
Arnica flowers and alcohol. Use 10g of the 34ml Olive Oil
dried flowers, or 50g of the fresh flowers, to 20ml Avocado Oil
150ml alcohol. Stage 2 10ml Thistle Oil
5ml Borage Oil
To make an Infusion use 15-20g of the dried
flowers, or150-200g of the fresh flowers, to 1 Stage 3 10ml Arnica Tincture
litre of water and allow to infuse for 30 5ml/g Vitamin E Oil
minutes.
Stage 4 15-20 drops healing Essential Oils
Use up to 10% pure Arnica Tincture mixed of your choice
into a Base Ointment, or add to Creams or
Lotions. Method
1. Melt Stage 1 ingredients first in a double

boiler.
2. When melted, add Stage 2 ingredients
and stir well.
3. Then stir in Stage 3 ingredients.
4. Finally add the Essential Oils and stir in
thoroughly.
5. Place in jars and allow to settle.
26
Birch
Betula alba
Synonyms: Lady of the Woods (Anglo- for it's white colour. Found in all parts of
Saxon), Common Birch, Silver Birch. Europe and Northern Asia, all parts of the
Birch tree have also long been used in folk
Parts used: The leaves, but also the bark and medicine, for ritual healing and purification,
tar. The leaves are picked in early spring, the magical protective and creative talismans.
bark either early in the spring or in the
autumn. The production of Birch tar oil is a Russian
industry of considerable importance and apart
Traditional use & history, description from being used for skin complaints, it is also
and properties: The name is a very ancient used in the preserving of leather and in
one, probably derived from the Sanskrit photography. Birch wine has been made for a
‘bhurga’, 'a tree whose bark is used for writing long time in parts of Europe.
upon'. Traditionally, Birch has been used for
many ailments ranging from headache to fever, The tree has been used for many more
cramps, gout, wounds and skin ailments. purposes, such in boat-building, roofing, the
Today researchers are focusing on the manufacture of bobbins for thread mills,
possible anti-cancer and HIV properties of herring-barrel staves, broom handles, various
betulinic acid a pentacyclic triterpene which is fancy articles, thatching, wattles, broom
synthesized or derived from betulin found in making and in the manufacture of cloth, as
the shredding bark of the tree and accounts well as asphyxiating gases and gunpowder.
Native Americans of northern New England
regions in North America are well known for
making Birch-bark canoes but there are also
records of these canoes being made in
Europe.
In Britain, the Birch tree was used for making

the May pole used in folk festivities as it was
very much associated with fertility and
sexuality until the 19th century, when people
considered themselves to be married if they
jumped across a Birch broom. In Sweden,
Birch poles are still used to make May poles.
The bark has also long been used as a source
of tannin for tanning leather.
In Estonia, the leaves are still considered one

of the three most important ‘whisking’ herbs
to use for sauna treatments.
With regard to Natural Skin Care and Beauty,

Birch leaves disinfect wounds and are
considered to alleviate most skin complaints,
including cellulite.
Main constituents: Approximately 3%

saponins (concentration is highest in the
spring), 0.05-1% Essential Oil, 5-9% tannins.
Betulin (also known as Birch Camphor), a
component richest in the Birch bark, is being
Betula alba studied for its hepatoprotective (liver
- 27 -
protecting), anti-ulcer, and anti-inflammatory natural aspirin, those who are allergic to
activities. In high concentration, it may inhibit aspirin should not use Birch-based herbs.
viruses and cancer cell reproduction. The
leaves contain flavonoids that may be Skin and Body Care: The leaves are used
responsible for the anti-inflammatory activity; externally as an astringent and antiseptic (the
one of the components is hyperoside, which is bark is even more effective) for inflammations
also found in St. John's Wort. Birch is also high of the skin and for strengthening the skin
in vitamins A, C, E, B1, B2 and in the minerals tissue. Birch tar, which is extracted through
calcium, chloride, copper, iron, magnesium, the dry distillation of the bark and wood and
phosphorus, potassium, sodium, silicon and is a brown-black, with a thick, runny, sticky,
fluoride. syrupy consistency, is used in an Ointment
base to treat scabies, skin parasites, eczema,
Internal use: Birch leaves have a strong, psoriasis and chronic diseases of the skin.
diuretic effect, which is mainly caused by the Because of the high tannin contents, Birch
saponins found in the leaves. The diuretic leaves have an astringent effect on weeping
effect with normal dosages has been eczemas and other skin problems. In addition,
questioned but when adding a little Sodium Birch leaves contain betulin, which curb or kill
Bicarbonate to the Birch tea will increase its viruses, such as the papillomavirus, which
diuretic effects. This is because the active causes warts.
betulorentic acid in the leaves is easily ,Birch Essential Oil is recommended for use
dissolved by the Sodium Bicarbonate. In a by professional aromatherapists only.
similar way, Birch leaves taken as a hot
Infusion have both diuretic and sudorific Use a strong Birch leaf Decoction for
(sweat-producing) effects as the hot water Compresses for warts and eczema. Soak a
increases the effects. Boil for 15 minutes if you cotton cloth in the Decoction and apply as a
want to release the saponins. Compress to eczema and warts.
Birch leaf is usually taken as a tea or in capsule
form for Arthritis; blood purifying; boils; gout; Hair Care: Birch leaf is considered to
bladder problems; kidney stones; oedema; strengthen skin tissue, tone the scalp and
worms. prevent hair loss and make hair soft and shiny.
, Since its chemical make up is very similar to To use, make a strong Decoction and add it to
your Shampoo Recipe. A Birch leaf Decoction
is an excellent addition to your Nettle
Shampoo recipe as the saponins in the Birch
opens up the pores to allow the minerals in
the Nettle to penetrate the scalp.
Oral Care: It can also be used as a Tooth

Powder to brush teeth.
Preparation and usage of Birch in your

products: For Compresses, make a strong
Decoction by boiling 15-20g dried Birch leaves
per 1 litre of water for 15 minutes to release
the saponins before use.
For Shampoos, add a Birch leaf Decoction to

your Recipe. Add 10-20% of the total volume
of your Shampoo e.g. if using 20%, then you
would use 20ml of the Decoction in 100ml of
Shampoo.
28
Chamomile
Matricaria recutita
To make the Birch leaf Decoction, use 15-20g Synonyms: Chamomilla recutita, German
of dried Birch leaves per 1 litre of water or Chamomile, Blue Chamomile, Sweet
150-200g of fresh Birch leaves per 2-3 litres of Chamomile, Sweet Feverfew, Whig-plant,
water. Manzanilla and too many more to mention
here. Note: Roman Chamomile
For Whole Body Baths, use either 50-100g of (Chamaemelum nobile) is a close relation,
dried Birch Leaves or 500-1000g fresh Birch used in a similar way.
leaves or use a strong Decoction.
Parts used: Flowers.
Use a 15% concentration of Birch tar in an
Ointment base only to treat scabies and skin Traditional use & history, description
parasites and a maximum of 8% concentration and properties: This herb is one of the
for eczema, psoriasis and chronic diseases of best known of the garden herbs and is widely
the skin. cultivated in Europe. In the middle ages,
Chamomile used to be regarded as the 'Plant's
Grind the dried leaves in a coffee grinder and Physician,' and it has been stated that nothing
use as a rough Powder by dipping your contributes as much to the health of a garden
toothbrush in it and brushing the teeth. as a number of Chamomile herbs distributed
around it, and that if another plant is drooping
Birch Hair Rinse Recipe and sickly, in nine cases out of ten, it will
(Makes approximately 1 litre.) recover if you place a herb of Chamomile
near it.
You will need:
For the Decoction Its value as a medicinal herb has been

recognised for many hundreds of years and its
25g dried Birch leaves use has even been recorded in ancient
1200ml Still Water Egyptian manuscripts. It is said that the
Egyptians dedicated Chamomile to their sun
Other Hair Rinse Ingredients god and valued it over all other herbs for its
healing qualities. Due to its sedative and
1-1.2gr Preservative relaxing properties Chamomile was an
20ml D-Panthenol ingredient in some love potions in the middle
20ml Bio-energiser ages.
5g Lactic Acid (if you are using Preservative K
as your Preservative) The fresh plant is strongly and agreeably
aromatic, with a distinct scent of apples - a
, If you are using this Hair Rinse within a characteristic noted by the Greeks, on
week of making it, you don’t need to use a account of which they named it 'ground-apple';
Preservative. - ‘kamai’ (on the ground) and melon (an apple)
- the origin of the name Chamomile.
Method:
1. Make 1 litre of a strong Birch Decoction The Spaniards call it 'manzanilla,' which
and strain. signifies 'a little apple', and give the same name
2. Mix the rest of the ingredients into the to one of their lightest sherries, flavoured with
Decoction and use as a Hair Rinse. this plant. Anglo-Saxons believed it was one of
the nine sacred herbs given to humans by the
god Woden.
- 29 -
Main constituents: The flowers of Crohn’s disease; Irritable Bowel Syndrome;
Chamomile contain 1–2% volatile oils including infantile teething pain (usually homoeopathic
alpha-bisabolol, alpha-bisabolol oxides A & B, doses); and infantile convulsions (usually as a
and matricin (usually converted, when heated weak Infusion).
through distillation or Infusion, to
chamazulene, which is blue). Other active External use: Chamomile is used externally
constituents include the flavonoids apigenin, for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and
luteolin, and quercetin. These active healing effect. The active ingredients in
ingredients contribute to chamomile’s anti- Chamomile flowers can detoxify certain
inflammatory, antispasmodic, and smooth- bacterial toxins, affect the composition of
muscle relaxing action, particularly in the substances in the skin and have a locally
gastrointestinal tract. Also present are bitter astringent effect on the arteries. They also
principles, glycosides and carbohydrates. increase blood circulation in the tissue.
Chamomile is used externally to ease or treat:
Internal use: The Essential Oil found in Inflammation; sore skin; blisters and sores in
Chamomile flowers has anti-inflammatory, the mouth and nose; gingivitis; varicose ulcers;
antispasmodic and anti-microbial activity. It is irritation and infections of the skin;
an excellent herb for many digestive disorders haemorrhoids; fistula; burns; insect bites;
and for nervous tension and irritability. For washing wounds to prevent infections;
safe internal use, only the Infusion or the weeping eczema; colds (inhaled, Steam Baths);
Tincture is recommended. psoriasis (Steam Bath and Creams);
haemorrhoids and vaginal and bladder
Chamomile is used internally to ease or treat: infections (Bath or Steam Bath). Bisabolol and
indigestion; heartburn; nervousness; chamazulene are both anti-inflammatory.
depressions; headaches; emotion-related Chamazulene is found only in the Essential Oil
problems; insomnia; peptic ulcers; colitis; and is hardly present when the flowers are
spastic colon; nervous indigestion; diarrhoea; infused.
Matricaria recutita
30
Chickweed
Stellaria media
Chamomile Tip: Synonyms: Starweed, Starwort.
It is recommended that both the Essential Oil Parts used: Whole above-ground plant.
and the Infusion be used in external
applications. Chamomile Tincture can also be Traditional use & history, description
used, as well as Chamomile CO2 Extract. This and properties: Chickweed use has most
is a powerful form of Chamomile and very likely not changed much since Neolithic man.
little is needed to be effective. It has been gathered in India and used by man
for untold centuries. The early Greeks and
Skin, Hair and Body Care: Romans used Chickweed as one of the few
edible greens available for food during the
Chamomile has cleansing and refreshing winter months.
properties and it soothes delicate, sensitive
skin. It is used in a number of ways for a In the middle ages, Chickweed was popular as
number of purposes: a salad green, pot herb, and as a medicinal for
curing rashes. Chickweed has also been used
For swollen skin and eyes - Facial Steam Baths;
as feed for poultry, a custom from which
Compresses.
Chickweed derives its name. Chickweed seed
For stress and nervous tension - Soothing is still added to commercially prepared poultry
Bath; Massage Oil (Base Oil with Essential Oil feed to stimulate the appetites of chickens
and CO2 Extract). raised in confinement.
For scalp irritation/giving lighter shine - Chickweed was praised by most medieval
Shampoos; Conditioners; Hair Packs. herbalists as an excellent anti-inflammatory
medicinal herb. It is said to have been taken
To lighten hair - Hair Rinses.
to North America by the Puritan immigrants.
For red, sensitive and/or irritated skin - It is also found in Central and South America.
Creams, Skin Oils, Foam Bath.
Chickweed Poultices are still used to combat
To help treat Acne and eczema - Facial/Steam rheumatism by people who continue to use
Baths, Creams, Ointments, Compresses. folk remedies and is widely used in Anti-
itching Creams by herbalists.
Preparation and usage of dried
Chamomile flowers for your products:
For Foot and Hand Baths, use 15-20g per

1 litre of water.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g.
For Foam Baths, add 1-2% of either

Chamomile CO2 Extract, or add 75-80% of a
strong Chamomile Infusion to your Recipes.
For Wet Compresses and Wraps, use 25-30g

per 1 litre of water to make an Infusion.
For Dry Compresses, see section at the

beginning of the Pack for instructions.
For Shampoo and Conditioners, make an

Infusion to use in your Recipe. Use 1 litre of
Stellaria media
water per 15-20g to make the Infusion.
- 31 -
Most important active ingredients: Chickweed Cream Recipe
Triterpene saponins, hentiacontanol,
coumarins, mucilage, phytosterols, (This is an excellent Cream for treating itchy
tocopherols, Gamma Linoleic Acid (GLA), skin and generally good for sensitive skin.
minerals, flavonoids (mainly apigenin c- Makes approximately 100ml/g.)
glycosides and rutin), organic acids (carboxylic
acids) and Vitamin C. Fat Stage 6ml Apricot Kernel Oil
75-80°C 2g Shea Butter
Internal use: Internally, Chickweed is used 2g Cetyl Alcohol
for rheumatism as well as chest infections. 2.5g VE Emulsifier
Fresh Chickweed is also used in salads or 2-3 drops Carotene
cooked as winter greens. When liquidised, it
makes a good tonic juice, especially when it is Water Stage 4g MF Emulsifier
combined with other herbs and vegetables. 75-80°C 48ml Boiling Infusion of
Chickweed (use 2-3g dried,
External use (Skin Care): Best known in or 25-30g fresh Chickweed
its use for treating pruritus and itchy skin, it is per 100ml of water)
also used to treat: eczema; acne; ulcers; 5ml Comfrey Glycerol Extract
haemorrhoids; varicose veins; psoriasis; 2g Lechitin
Inflammation; vaginitis; urticaria (hives, solar 0.8-1.2ml Preservative
rashes, nettle rashes, etc); boils; wounds; (NB Use the higher amount if
abscesses; skin allergies; and other skin using Preservative K)
problems.
Third Stage 2ml Vitamin E Oil
Preparation and usage of Chickweed for 40-35°C 5ml Borage Oil
your products: 1ml/g Vitamin A Palmitate
7ml Aloe Vera concentrate
For Healing Creams, make an Infusion to use 1ml/g Rosehip Seed CO2
in your Recipe. Use 1 litre of water per 15- Extract
20g of dried, or 150-200g of fresh, Chickweed
Fourth 10ml runny Aloe Vera Gel
to make the Infusion. See the Chickweed
Stage 10-15 drops Essential Oils
Cream Recipe opposite as an example.
(optional)
25°C 1g Lactic acid
Use up to 10% of the Tincture in Creams or
(Only add if you are using
Ointments.
Preservative K as your
Preservative)
For Method on how to make a Cream, see

page 21.
32
Cleavers
Galium aparine L
Synonyms: Goosegrass, Catchweed, Most important active ingredients:

Cleavers Goosegrass, Zhu Yang Yang. Galiosin, an anthraquinone glycoside, other
glycosides such as asperuloside, a variety of
Parts used: Aerial parts (gathered before tannins, citric acid and flavonoids.
flowering).
Skin Care: The variety of Tannic Acids in
Traditional use & history, description Cleavers have an astringent and antiseptic
and properties: Cleavers is one of effect and this makes the herb good for
numerous plants considered in ancient times healing wounds. In Skin Care it is useful for
to act as a diuretic and has also long been dry skin conditions such as psoriasis as it
used for treating ulcers and tumours. It is still purifies the blood and is often used in
used to relieve oedema and to promote urine combination with Yellow Dock and Burdock
formation during bladder infections or when in Baths, Compresses, and Creams for this
there the prostate is irritated. It has also been purpose. Cleavers are also useful also for
used very effectively by people with lymph burns and wounds that are hard to heal.
swellings, jaundice, and wounds. It reduces
inflammation and tones the lymphatic system. Preparation and usage of dried
It is often included in herbal ‘detox’ formulas. Cleavers in your products:
Use an Infusion 15-20g per litre of water in

Foam Bath Recipes and Wet Compresses.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g for the

whole bath.
For Creams, make an Infusion to use in your

Recipe. Use 1 litre of water per 15-20g dried
Cleavers to make the Infusion.
Remember that it generally combines well

with Burdock and Yellow Dock.
Galium aparine L
- 33 -
Comfrey
Symphytum officinalis
Synonyms: Ass Ear, Black Root, Blackwort, The carbohydrates provide protective,
Boneset, Bruisewort, Consound, Gum Plant, soothing and rejuvenating properties.
Healing Herb, Knitback, Knitbone, Salsify,
Slippery Root, Wallwort. The tannins and rosmarinic acid have an
astringent and anti-inflammatory effect.
Parts used: Leaves, Root.
The Essential Oil reinforces the tannins'
Traditional use & history, description antibacterial action.
and properties: Comfrey's name derives
from the Latin ‘con firma’, i.e. ‘with strength’, , Comfrey root and young leaf preparations
from the belief that it could heal broken should not be used internally because of its
bones. Long used to heal wounds, the pyrroliziden alkaloid content.
Comfrey leaves and roots have been used to
cure ailments ranging from stubborn leg ulcers Trials with rats using 4% Comfrey root
to broken bones, and hence its common name reported the development of malignant
of ‘boneset’ or ‘knitbone’. tumours in the liver and skin.
Since 400 BCE, early Greek physicians have Main constituents: Allantoin, approx. 30%
used Comfrey to stop bleeding, treat carbohydrate, tannins and small quantities of
bronchial problems, heal wounds, and mend Essential Oil. Comfrey Root contains mucilage
broken bones. During the Irish potato famine (fructans), pyrrolizidine alkaloids, triterpenes,
of the 1840s, an Englishman named Henry allantoin, rosmarinic acid, tannins.
Doubleday became convinced that the world
could be saved from hunger and suffering by
using Comfrey. He was so intrigued by its
possibilities as a useful crop that he devoted
the rest of his life to popularising it. The
Henry Doubleday Research Association
(HDRA), which still exists in England today,
was set up in 1954 by Lawrence Hills, who in
turn was inspired by Henry Doubleday and his
introduction of Russian Comfrey to Great
Britain.
Comfrey has been used for centuries for its

wound healing properties. Comfrey is mainly
used externally to treat inflammation and to
stimulate wound and bone fracture healing.
It is also used for treating: tissue damage;

bone infections; gout; inflammations; sprains;
tendonitis; aches and pains; haemorrhages;
post-operative wounds; sores which do not
heal; eczema; psoriasis; varicose ulcers; boils;
and varicose veins.
The phytochemical allantoin is known for its

stimulation of cell proliferation, healing
wounds and stimulating the growth of healthy
tissue.
Symphytum officinalis
34
Skin Care: Plants like Comfrey, which have Ointment and Face Toner Recipes.
a high carbohydrate content, are considered
to rejuvenate the skin and to have healing, You can also add 3-6% of the water-based
soothing and moisture retaining properties. Comfrey Glycerol Extract to these Recipes in
They are good for rough, damaged skin and addition to using the Decoction or the
can, with time, alleviate wrinkling and enable Tincture.
skin tissue to regain its youthful elasticity.
Kolbjorn’s suggestions for the use of
Allantoin promotes skin cell regeneration, fresh Comfrey Root Decoction:
stimulates the growth of new cells and helps
sensitive skin to become more resilient, Adding the Decoction to an Ointment or
counteracting dryness and cracking. Cream Recipe and using it to treat tendinitis
yields very good results, which makes it ideal
Comfrey Glycerol Extract can also be added for people actively involved in sports.
to products already containing other Comfrey
preparations such as Tinctures or Decoctions. Adding 5% Arnica Tincture to the gel-like
This will enhance the healing, moisturising and Decoction is excellent in a Compress for
soothing effects of your product. It is healing fractures and sprains. See method for
particularly good to add the Glycerol Extract Wet Compresses on page 18.
to Compresses, Shaving products, Shampoos,
Foam Baths and Skin Toners. Kolbjorn’s method for making and using
an effective Comfrey Decoction from
Preparation and usage of Comfrey in fresh Comfrey root:
your products:
Fresh Comfrey roots get the best results and
Comfrey is used in Baths, Poultices, it is easy to grow in your own garden as it
Compresses, Macerated Oils, Ointments, grows like a weed. To prepare the Comfrey
Creams & Lotions, Skin Toners, Shampoos, for boiling, peel the fresh roots, removing any
Foam Baths, and Shaving products. rotten or bruised parts.
Add a strong Decoction to your Foam Bath Chop the roots up into small pieces and boil
and Cream Recipes. Either make a fresh root for 2-3 hours until the brown mucilage starts
Decoction (see below) or use approximately to appear in the water. Use 100g-150g of
1 litre of water per 20-25g dried Comfrey fresh Comfrey root per litre of water.
Roots to make a Decoction from dried roots.
Once boiled, strain and use it in your Recipes.
For a Wet Compress, boil 20-25g dried You can store the Decoction for a few days in
Comfrey roots or leaves, or make a fresh root the fridge. When adding this to a Cream or
Decoction (see below) to apply overnight for Ointment (maximum 8% to an Ointment,
fracture and sprain healing. otherwise it separates), make sure you add
double the Preservative usually required for
For Whole Body Baths use 200g-300g fresh your Recipe.
root or 50-100g dried roots for the whole
bath. Or use 400-500g of the fresh leaves or Add a natural colouring such as, for example,
50-100g of dried Comfrey leaves. Carotene, to your products to cover up the
brownish colour caused by Comfrey root.
For Poultices, use as much of the freshly
chopped root as you need to sufficiently cover
the affected area.
Add up to 10% of the Tincture to your
- 35 -
Coltsfoot
Tussilago farfara
Synonyms: Galax, Galaxy, Wandflower, Main constituents: Mucilage, carbohydrates

Beetleweed. (approximately 8%) and up to 17% tannins.
Small quantities of Essential Oil and flavonoid
Parts used: Leaves and flowers. Flowers are glycosides. These are thought to give the herb
picked in early spring and the leaves are anti-inflammatory and antitussive (cough
picked in May/June, cut and dried. suppression) activity. Coltsfoot also contains
pyrrolizidine alkaloids, potentially toxic
Traditional use & history, description
constituents. The flowers do not contain
and properties: Coltsfoot leaves have
tannins but contain the yellow xanthophyll
historically been used by herbalists to alleviate
pigment related to carotene which, when used
coughs due to all manner of conditions. It was
externally, has wound healing properties.
considered particularly useful for people with
chronic coughs, such as those due to Skin, Hair and Body Care: Considered to
emphysema or silicosis. It is said to have be good for sensitive, spotty and also oily
tissue-healing properties. Lilly Johansson used complexions. Soothes, cleanses and softens
it for this reason at her naturopathic hospital the skin and is considered to be especially
in Follingegaarden, Sweden with very good good for inflammations of the skin and for
results. It has been used effectively for coughs holding moisture in the skins. Use as a
in mixtures with Icelandic Moss and Liquorice Tincture or strong Decoction in Moisturising
Root. and Healing Creams, in Compresses, in Baths,
Skin Toners, Hair Treatment, including Hair
, Coltsfoot should not be used internally as it Packs, and Shampoos.
can cause liver tumours. Note: the presence
of pyrrolizidine alkaloids, which are toxic to Coltsfoot’s mucilage from its leaves forms like
the liver in quantity over a prolonged period, a gel on the skin and acts as a ‘help-
require caution for use of this herb. However, Moisturiser’. The mucilage is actually a
normally applied doses used for a short period carbohydrate-lipid complex capable of holding
of time will present little risk if you have no large amounts of water and so is an excellent
history of liver problems or disease. People hydrator. Because the Coltsfoot molecules are
should not use Coltsfoot for more than one too large to penetrate the skin, and so lie on
month consecutively unless on the advice of a top of the skin, they help to ‘fill in’ small lines
qualified herbalist. Preparations guaranteed to and wrinkles, making the skin look smoother.
be pyrrolizidine-free can be used indefinitely This also serves to create a protective mucous
and are preferable. coat on the skin.

Coltsfoot leaves:
Make a strong Decoction of the leaves by
boiling the leaves for 10 minutes.
For Compresses, Foam Bath Recipes, Creams,
Skin Toners, Shampoos and Hair Treatment
use 15-20g dried leaves and flowers (if you can
obtain the flowers) per 1 litre of water for the
Decoction.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g dried

leaves and flowers (if you can obtain the
flowers) for the whole bath.
Tussilago farfara
36
Cornflower
Centaurea cyanus
Synonyms: Bachelor’s Button. Main constituents: Bitter principle,

flavonoid, glycosides potash salts,
Parts used: Flowers. chichorigenin, resin and tannins. The tannins
are astringent. Cornflower purportedly has an
antibiotic effect against staphylococci.
and properties: The Blue Cornflower has
been the national flower of Estonia since 1968.
Skin Care: Used as a Skin Toner and in
The Latin name, ‘cyanus’, was given to the
Baths for its soothing and astringent effect on
Cornflower after a youthful devotee of the
the skin as well as for its antibacterial and
goddess Flora (Cyanus), whose favourite
antioxidant properties.
flower it was. The name of the genus is
derived from the Centaur, Chiron, who taught
Eye Care: Cornflower’s major application is
mankind the healing virtue of herbs. It has long
for the treatment of the eye area and it is
been cultivated as a garden plant, in several
used in Eye Baths and Washes for corneal
colours.
ulcers, conjunctivitis and as a Wash for minor
Traditionally it has been used to improve wounds. Add to Eye products such as Gels,
digestion, regulate the gall bladder, liver and since it has a gentle astringent effect, but also
kidneys as well as for menstrual disorders and soothes inflamed and irritated skin.
to increase resistance to infections. The
flower of the Cornflower was taken up in the Oral Care: Cornflower works well as a
French Pharmacopoeia since 1884 because of Mouth Wash for mouth ulcers.
its anti-inflammatory properties, specially used
in ophthalmology (diagnosis and treatment of Hair Care: Cornflower is also used as Hair
disorders and diseases of the eye) and in Rinse. Some sources claim that it deepens the
treating the area around the eyes. colour of fair and greying hair.

Cornflower:
For Foam Baths, Mouth Washes, Eye Baths

and Wound Washes, and as a Hair Rinse,
make an Infusion of 15-20g flowers per 1 litre
of water.
For Shampoos and Skin Toners, use 15-20g

per 1 litre of water and use the Infusion
instead of water in your Recipe.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of the

dried flowers (or 200g of the fresh flowers for
the whole bath).
For Eye Gels, add 1-2% of the Tincture to

your Recipes.
Centaurea cyanus
- 37 -
Dandelion
Taraxacum officinale
Synonyms: Lion's Tooth, Bitterwort, Wild used as a coffee substitute and Dandelion wine
Endive, Priest's crown, Doonheadclock, Piss-a- is made from the fermented flowers.
bed, Irish Daisy, Blow Ball, Yellow Gowan, The first mention of the Dandelion as a
Puffball, Clock Flower, Swine Snout, Fortune- medicine is in the works of Arabian physicians
Teller, and Cankerwort. of the tenth and eleventh centuries. In
medieval times, it was planted in the medicinal
Parts used: Roots and Leaves. gardens of monasteries and 13th-century
Welsh medicine praises its properties.
and properties: Dandelion has a long Today it is popular as a ‘detox’ herb and
history. People have carried the seeds from general tonic, though it is often used in
place to place for cultivation since before combination with other cleansing and
written history and the plant’s leaves and strengthening herbs. It helps to detoxify the
roots have been used for centuries to treat body by strengthening the kidneys and liver,
liver, gall bladder, kidney, and joint problems. cleansing the blood, and stimulating the
secretion of bile; thus aiding digestion and
Romans, Gauls and Celts enjoyed young acting as a mild laxative and stool softener.
Dandelion leaves as a delicious food. Anglo-
Saxon tribes of Britain and the Normans of It is a powerful diuretic but does not deplete
France continued to use the plant as food and the body of potassium like many diuretics as it
as medicine to control scurvy and as a itself has a high potassium content. It is used in
diuretic. Dandelion is still eaten today, with many countries around the world for the
the green leaves being used in salads or treatment of: gall bladder, kidney and urinary
cooked as a pot herb; flowers are often disorders; gallstones; hepatitis; jaundice;
dipped in batter and fried; dried roots are cirrhosis; hypoglycaemia; dyspepsia with
constipation; oedema associated with high
blood pressure and heart weakness; anaemia;
chronic joint and skin complaints; gout;
eczema; and acne.
Dandelion may be taken as an Infusion of the

leaf, a Decoction of the root, Tincture or a
juice extraction. Fresh leaves may be added to
salads. The juice extraction is the most potent
for medicinal purposes.
Main constituents: Potassium, Sodium,

Calcium, Phosphorus and Iron.
Leaves: Are a richer source of Vitamin A than
carrots and contain some amounts of Vitamins
B, C and D. Roots: Bitter glycosides, tannins,
triterpenes, sterols, volatile oil, choline,
asparagin, and Inulin.
Internal use: Used internally for its blood

cleansing ability to treat: rashes; psoriasis;
eczema; cancers; chicken pox; measles;
infections; inflammations; boils; intestinal and
breast abscesses; red, swollen painful joints,
eyes, and skin; as well as fever. It is a good
idea to take Dandelion internally while you are
Taraxacum officinale
38
Echinacea
Echinacea purpurea
treating these conditions with external Skin Synonyms: American coneflower, black
Care products. Sampson, black Susan, cock-up-hat,
combflower, hedgehog, igelkopf, Indian head,
External use: Fresh Dandelion juice will fight Kansas snake root, kegelblume, narrow-leaf
bacteria and help heal wounds. The plant has purple coneflower, purple coneflower, red
an antibacterial action, inhibiting the growth of sunflower, rudbeckia, scurvy root, snakeroot,
Staphococcus aureus, pneumococci, solhatt, sun hat.
meningococci, Bacillus dysenteriae, B. typhi, C.
diphtheriae, proteus. Dandelion has Parts used: Leaves and aerial parts.
reportedly been used to eradicate warts and
corns and to soothe calluses, bee stings, or
and properties: Echinacea has a rich
sores.
tradition of use by North American Plains
Indians who used it medicinally more than any
Preparation and usage of Dandelion: other plant. It was introduced into US medical
practice in 1887 and was touted for use in
The Infusion or Tincture is used in skin conditions ranging from colds to syphilis. It
preparations for its astringent and detoxifying continued to be prominent in modern
properties. Add to Creams and Ointments as American medicine in the early 20th century,
well as to Baths. and was discovered by Europeans, who have
used it extensively since the 1930s, when
For Foam Bath Recipes make an Infusion of modern research on Echinacea started in the
15-20g dried flowers or 150-200g fresh 1930s in Germany. Today millions of
flowers, or 10-15g dried root or 100g fresh Europeans use Echinacea as their primary
chopped root per 1 litre of water. therapy for colds, ‘flus, infections, and for
general immune-boosting effects.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g dried
flowers or 400-500g fresh flowers, or 25g
dried root or 150-200g fresh chopped root
for the whole bath.
For Creams and Ointments, add up to10%

Tincture to your Recipes.
Echinacea purpurea
- 39 -
Echinacea is antibacterial, inhibits the spread Preparation and usage of Echinacea:
of local infections, promotes the healing of
wounds that are slow to heal and strengthens To make an Infusion for use in your Skin Care
the body's natural immune defences against products use 15-20g dried herb to 1 litre of
viruses and bacteria. Used externally for water.
infections (persistent sores and formation of
pus), boils and other troublesome skin To add Echinacea Infusion to your Creams,
ailments. Echinacea's antibacterial properties Lotions or Skin Toners, replace the water
can stimulate wound healing and are of benefit with the Infusion in your Recipes.
to skin conditions such as burns, insect bites,
For Compresses, use 15-20g dried herb to 1
ulcers, psoriasis, acne and eczema. Its anti-
litre of water or 5% of the Tincture diluted in
inflammatory properties may relieve arthritis
water.
and lymphatic swelling.
Add 5-10% of the Tincture to your Ointment
Used for spots (where there is a bacterial
Base.
infection) and for staphylococcal and
streptococcal infections. Bathe affected area
with cotton wool dipped in Lactic Acid (3-4%
diluted in water) and apply Echinacea Tincture
after 5 minutes. Also used for cradle cap and
inflammation of the veins and gums. Echinacea
Tincture is used as a Mouth Wash and to
massage the gums.
Main constituents: Echinacein,

approximately 1.2% Essential Oil, Resin, the
alkaloid echinacoside 0.1% and other
constituents. Also contains betaine,
sesquiterpenes, caryophylene, polyacetylene,
rosmarinic acid, glycosides, echinacoside,
chicoric acid.
Skin Care: Considered to regulate and

soothe the skin and to enhance overall
immunity. Use in Ointments, Creams,
Compresses and Toners for wounds, skin
regeneration, skin infections, inflammatory
skin conditions and conditions such as
psoriasis and eczema. It is used primarily in
Tincture form, but an Infusion can also be
used. The Tincture is handy and easily diluted
for use in Compresses to dress (fresh)
wounds.
40
Elderflower
Sambucus nigra
Synonyms: Black Elder. Today, it is also used externally for Mouth

Washes and as a Gargle for inflammation and
Parts used: Flowers, picked in June/July. infections of the oral cavity and throat. It is
also commonly taken internally as an effective
Traditional use & history, description fever-reduction remedy. Make a strong
and properties: Popular these days as a Infusion of the tea and serve or drink at blood
cold and ‘flu medicine, the Elder tree has been temperature.
called 'the medicine chest of the common
people' and has been an important folk For an even more efficient fever-reduction
remedy for centuries. Egyptians discovered method, you can cool down some of the
that using its flowers improved the Infusion in the fridge and then apply to the
complexion while the Greeks used a tea from calves in the form of a Cold Compress. Simply
the root as a laxative. soak towels in the cold Infusion and leave
them wrapped around the calves for 5-10
The Roman naturalist Pliny wrote about the minutes. Repeat the process until the body
therapeutic value of this flowering tree in the temperature has been reduced to a ‘more
1st century AD, using its generic name healthy’ fever. This method was repeatedly
Sambucus nigra. Native Americans used Elder used successfully at Lilly Johansson’s
internally as a treatment for respiratory naturopathic hospital in Sweden.
infections and constipation as well as
externally in Compresses for healing wounds. Main constituents: The flavonoids
In 17th century Britain, people drank (composed mainly of flavanol glycosides) and
homemade wine and cordials that were triterpenes appear to be the main biologically
thought to prolong life and cure the common active constituents. Elderflower also contain
cold. It is still a British favourite today, with free aglycones; minerals, mainly potassium;
many people still making their own phenolic compounds; triterpene; sterols
Elderflower cordial or wine. In older times, (volatile oils; mucilage; pectin; plastocynin
Elderflower was a common ingredient of Facial (protein); sugar, tannins and small amounts of
Waters and Skin Toners. Essential Oil.
Skin Care: Elderflower soothes, heals,

protects and tones sensitive skin and
stimulates its blood circulation. It is
particularly good for older, tougher, rugged
skin. It softens and evens out wrinkles and
eases sunburn. Oily, spotty skins are cleansed,
softened and toned. It soothes tender and
inflamed skin and certain kinds of eczema. It is
used in Baths, Face Toners, Compresses,
Masks, Eye Compresses and in Creams and
Lotions. It is used in Eye Compresses for
swollen and puffy eyes.
Sambucus nigra
- 41 -
Eyebright
Euphrasia spp
Preparation and usage of Elderflower: Synonyms: Euphrasia.
Make an Infusion of the flowers for use in Parts used: Dried aerial parts.
your Skin care products.
For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, Foam Bath and properties: The word ‘Euphrasia’ is of
Recipes, Face Toners and Eye Compresses, Greek origin, deriving from
use 15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of water ‘Euphrosyne’ (gladness), the name of one of
or 150-200g of the fresh flowers per 2-3 litres the Three Graces who was well known for
of water. her joy, mirth and gladness, and these qualities
are thought to be given to this plant for the
For Compresses, use 30-40g dried flowers or valuable properties attributed to it as a an eye
200g of the fresh flowers per 1 litre of water. medicine preserving eyesight and so bringing
gladness into the life of the sufferer. Although
For Whole Baths use 50-100g dried flowers known by the ancient Greeks, it was not until
or 250g of the fresh flowers for the whole 14th century that it is mentioned for 'all evils of
bath. the eye'. In Scotland the Highlanders made an
Infusion of the herb in milk, dipped a feather in
it and applied it to weak or inflamed eyes. The
dried herb is an ingredient in British herbal
tobacco.
A fluid extract is prepared from the plant in

the fresh state, gathered when in flower and
cut off just above the root. Euphrasia is best
collected in July and August when in full flower
and the foliage is in the best condition.
Euphrasia spp
42
Modern herbalists use this herb for Preparation and usage of Eyebright:
weaknesses of the eyes such as opthalmia,
often combining it with Golden Seal is said to For Eye Baths, use an Infusion made with
be excellent for general eye disorders. 1 litre of water per 15-20g dried herbs, or
Eyebright was and continues to be used by 1-2% of the Tincture diluted in water. If adding
herbalists primarily as a Poultice or Eye Wash Golden Seal Tincture, use maximum 1% plus
for the topical treatment of eye inflammations, 1% Eyebright Tincture.
including conjunctivitis/blepharitis, styes, the
treatment of eye fatigue and other Use 1-3% of the Tincture in your Eye Gel or
disturbances of vision. Traditionally, a Eye Cream Recipes.
Compress made from an Infusion of Eyebright
Dilute 1-2% of the Tincture in water and apply
is used to give relief from redness, swelling,
it directly to the skin around the eyes.
and visual disturbances due to eye infections.
Make a strong Infusion of the dried herbs
It acts specifically on the mucous lining of the
(15g-20g per litre of water), strain it
eyes and nose and the upper part of the
thoroughly and use it as Eye Drops.
throat to the top of the windpipe and
herbalists have recommended Eyebright for
For general eye problems, you can also drink
problems of the respiratory tract, including
15-20 drops of Eyebright Tincture in water 3
sinus infections, coughs, and sore throat. The
times a day as well as using it externally.
homoeopathic dose of Eyebright is used to
treat hayfever and related conditions.
Main constituents: Iridoid glycosides,

including aucubin. Tannins, both condensed
and hydrolysable gallic acid types, phenolic
acids including caffeic and ferulic volatile oil.
Also contains an unidentified alkaloid, sterols,
amino acids and choline.
Eye Care: Eyebright Infusion or Tincture is

used in Eye Baths for simple inflammation of
the eyes. Use 2-4% in Eye Gels or Eye Creams
or you can dilute the Tincture (2%) in water
and apply it directly onto the skin around the
eyes. For puffiness around the eyes, combine
with 1-2% Arnica Tincture.
For general eye problems, you can alternate

Poultices made from Ribwort (Plantain) or
Green Cabbage. On alternate nights use a
Clay Compress or Horsetail Decoction
Compress. Leave the Compresses or
Poultices on overnight. Whichever Compress
you are using, in the morning rinse your eyes
with an Infusion of Chamomile and Eyebright.
You can use the same Infusion to rinse your
eyes throughout the day if needed.
- 43 -
Ginkgo
Ginkgo biloba
Synonyms: Maidenhair tree. The Extract taken from the Gingko leaves is
used for circulation, memory and numerous
Parts used: Leaves and seeds. other reasons and is very effective in aiding
the circulatory system. Two Ginkgo trees that
Traditional use & history, description were situated near to the atomic bomb blast
and properties: The Ginkgo tree first in Hiroshima are still alive; and when a temple
appeared on the earth some 190 million years that was destroyed during the blast was
ago, and since that time it has survived all the rebuilt after the war, it was done so with its
changes that have occurred. It is thought that staircase around one of the trees, so that it
the Ginkgo tree has probably existed on earth would not have to be disturbed.
longer than any other tree. The tree itself can
grow 30 metres in height and to a breadth of It is used for a wide range of purposes -
7 metres. mostly related to its ability to improve
circulation and act as an antioxidant.
The tree has beautiful fan-shaped leaves, which Ginkgo biloba maintains the supply of blood to
have led it to be known as the 'Maidenhair the brain and other extremities, consequently
tree'. The fan-shaped leaves are bilobed (the supplying these areas with more oxygen and
leaf has two lobes); hence, the plant was given sugar for their needs. It is believed to help
the name Ginkgo biloba. sustain blood fluidity. It is believed to protect
cells from damage because certain active parts
The uses of Ginkgo in Chinese medicine date have antioxidant effects.
back around 5000 years, and have been well , It dilates blood vessels and thins the blood,
documented over the centuries. so should not be used for people with
extremely low blood pressure. It is also not
suitable for insulin-dependent diabetics.
Main constituents: Leaves: flavone

glycosides (including ginkgolide) bioflavones,
sitosterol, lactones, anthocyanin. Seeds: fatty
acids, minerals, bioflavones
Skin Care: Ginkgo biloba is known for its

great revitalising, stimulating, firming and
powerful antioxidant qualities. It has been
found to improve circulation by helping to
increase healthy blood flow to skin, and is
therefore good for bringing nutrients to the
skin, ultimately improving the appearance of
the skin. All of its qualities make Gingko a
good choice to add to anti-aging Skin Care
properties.
Take the Tincture internally and/or add it to

Creams and Gels. For internal use, take 10-15
drops three times a day in a glass of water.
Preparation and usage of Gingko:
For Creams and Gels, add 5-10% of the

Tincture to your Recipes.
Ginkgo biloba
44
Ginseng
Panax ginseng
Synonyms: Five-leaf ginseng, Ginseng radix, different parts of plant to the different organs
Hakushan, Hungshengjenseng, Jenshen, Man (in colour, shape, etc.) should be used for
Root, Oriental ginseng and too many more to treatment of these specific organ systems)
mention here. Ginseng can be used to strengthen any part of
the body.
Parts used: Root.
Ginseng acts in the following ways:
and properties: Asian Ginseng has been a Adaptogen – adaptogenic herbs increase
part of Chinese medicine for over 2,000 years. resistance and resilience to stress, enabling
The first reference to the use of Asian ginseng the body to adapt around the problem and
dates to the 1st century A.D. Ginseng is avoid reaching collapse.
commonly used by elderly people in the
Orient to improve mental and physical vitality. Tonic – nurtures and enlivens the body. They
are used frequently in Traditional Chinese and
The word ‘panax’ comes from the Greek Ayurvedic medicine, often as a preventative
‘panacea’ or ‘all-healing’, while ‘shen-seng’ measure. Tonic herbs like Ginseng build vital
translates as ‘man-root’ describing what its energy, or qi. Ginseng combats the physical
most useful medicinal part looks like. effects of stress.
According to the ‘Doctrine of
Signatures’ (theory that states resemblance of Stimulant – quickens and invigorates the
physiological and metabolic activity of the
body, including the immune system.
Hypoglycaemic – decreases blood sugar

level.
Antioxidant – lowering the levels of free

radicals in the blood, contributing to anti-aging
effects.
Main constituents: Saponin glycosides -

these are referred to as the ‘ginsenosides’ by
Japanese and ‘panaxosides’ by Russian
scientists; at least 13 ginsenosides have been
isolated; volatile oil, containing b-elemene, a
diene panaxynol, and two acetylenic
compounds, panaxydol and panaxytriol,
falcarinol and falcarintriol; and Vitamins.
Note: Siberian Ginseng (Eleutherococcus

senticosus) is not considered a true ginseng;
instead of a fleshy root, it has a woody root;
instead of ginsenosides, eleutherosides are
present.
Panax ginseng
- 45 -
Horse Chestnut
Aesculus hippocastanum
Skin Care: Ginseng is used in natural Skin Synonyms: Buckeye, Bongay, Chestnut,
Care products for its toning and vitalising Conkers, Conquerors, Eschilo, Fish poison,
effects on the skin. Ginseng helps to balance Hippocastanum vulgare, Hippocastabi folium,
the oil gland production and improves the skin Hippocastani semen, Spanish chestnut and
texture by preventing the formation of many more.
wrinkles. Add to Toners, Gels, Creams and
Lotions. Parts used: Seeds.

Note: Siberian Ginseng Extract is added to
and properties: Horse Chestnut leaves
Gels, Creams, Lotions and Skin Toners for its
have been used by herbalists as a cough
cleansing, rejuvenating, toning, moisturising,
remedy and to reduce fevers. The leaves were
anti-wrinkle and skin cell stimulant properties,
also believed to reduce pain and inflammation
although it is most effective in Gels. Siberian
of arthritis and rheumatism. In traditional
Ginseng Extract makes an effective
herbal medicine, Poultices of the seeds have
combination with Panax ginseng. For internal
been used topically to treat skin ulcers and
use, take 10-15 drops of the Tincture three
skin cancer. Other uses include the internal
times a day in a glass of water.
and external application for problems of
venous circulation, including varicose veins
Preparation and usage of Ginseng in
and haemorrhoids.
Skin Care products:
Horse Chestnut is still used as an astringent
Add 5-10% of the Panax Ginseng Tincture to with particular effect on the venous
your Recipes for Toners, Gels, Creams and circulation. It is also diuretic and prevents
Lotions. oedema. Aescin, the saponin found in the
seeds, has been shown to: promote circulation
Add 5-10% of the Siberian Ginseng Extract to
through the veins; foster normal tone in the
your Recipes for Gels, Creams and Lotions.
walls of the veins, thereby promoting return
See Aromantic’s Education Pack 2 for more of blood to the heart; possess anti-
extensive information about Siberian Ginseng inflammatory properties; and to reduce
Extract. oedema (swelling with fluid) following trauma,
particularly following sports injury, surgery,
and head injury.
This has made both topical (externally on the
affected area) and internal Horse Chestnut
Aesculus hippocastanum
46
Horseradish
Armoracia rusticana
extracts popular in Europe for the treatment Synonyms: Red cole.

of chronic venous insufficiency and, to a lesser
extent, varicose veins. In addition, topical Parts used: Root.
aescin preparation is very popular in Europe
for the treatment of acute sprains during Traditional use & history, description
sporting events. and properties: Horseradish, known for its
pungent taste, has been used as a medicine
Most important active ingredients: The and condiment for centuries in Europe. Its
seeds are the source of a saponin known as name is derived from the common practice of
aescin (see more in properties below). Horse naming a food according to its similarity with
Chestnuts also contain tannins, oils, resin, another food (Horseradish was considered a
pectin, flavonoids and sterols. rough substitute for radishes).
Internal use: Make an Infusion or take it as
Horseradish was utilised both internally and
a Tincture: 10-15 drops three times a day in a
externally by European herbalists. Internally, it
glass of water. Remember to follow the
was considered to be a diuretic and was used
instructions given by the manufacturer or seek
by herbalists to treat kidney stones, urinary
the advice of a qualified herbalist when unsure
infections or oedema. It was also
whether to take herbs internally.
recommended as a digestive stimulant and
External use: Horse Chestnut is used used for its antibacterial and diuretic effect to
externally in Compresses, Baths and Sun Care treat worms, coughs, bronchitis, toothache,
products. Horse Chestnut is a very important sore throats and even migraines.
ingredient for treating varicose veins. Add to
Creams, Gels and Compresses for this
purpose. Aesculin found in Horse Chestnut
absorb harmful UV rays, which makes it an
excellent addition to your Sun Care products.
Preparation and usage of Horse

Chestnut:
Use a Tincture or make a Decoction using

15-20g of the dried seeds or 100-150g of the
fresh leaves per 1 litre of water by boiling for
10-15 mins and allow to infuse for 30 mins.
Use a Decoction (see paragraph above)
instead of water in your Foam Bath Recipes.
For Varicose Vein Compresses, use a
Decoction or 4-5% of the Tincture diluted in
water (1 teaspoon to 100ml of water).
For Varicose Vein Creams and Gels, add 2-5%
Horse Chestnut Tincture.
To add up to 10% of the Tincture to Sun
Protection Cream, use 10ml of the Tincture
per 100ml of the Cream. Armoracia rusticana
For Whole Body Baths, use 50g-100g dried

seeds or 300-400g fresh Horse Chestnut
leaves.
- 47 -
Main constituents: A number of antibiotic Preparation and usage of Horseradish:
constituents, mainly Essential Oil and other
volatile oils. Horseradish contains volatile oils The Oxymel can be made by mixing
that are similar to those found in mustard. approximately 100g freshly grated
These include glucosinolates (mustard oil Horseradish Root with 600g honey and 100ml
glycosides), gluconasturtiin, and sinigrin, which vinegar. Mix it thoroughly and leave to stand
yield allyl isothiocynate when broken down in for 2-3 weeks.
the stomach. In test tubes, the volatile oils in
Horseradish have shown antibiotic properties. The Tincture is made with 100g freshly grated
root to 300-400ml alcohol.
External use: Applied to the skin, it causes
reddening and was used on arthritic or painful For Compresses, use 4-5% Tincture diluted in
joints, sciatica, old wounds, irritated nerves or water.
swellings. Horseradish is a very strong
antiseptic, and makes an excellent A fresh Root Poultice can be prepared by
replacement for garlic for those who can’t use grating the fresh root and spreading it on a
garlic for whatever reason. Garlic must never linen cloth or thin gauze. You can also use a
be used on the skin, for example, but Horseradish Oxymel instead of the fresh,
Horseradish can be used on the skin. grated root. This is then applied to the skin
once or twice per day until a burning
For best results use the fresh root, grated or sensation is experienced, at which point it is
sliced into thin strips or in the form of an removed immediately.
Oxymel or Tincture. According to
Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine,
the combination of vinegar and honey called , If used in amounts higher than
Oxymel was used as a base for many recommended, Horseradish can cause
medicinal herbal formulas. Horseradish stomach upset, vomiting, or excessive
Oxymel used in the form of a Poultice is used sweating.
for sore throats and old wounds. The
Tincture or fresh root is used in Poultices for , Direct application to the skin or eyes
wounds that are difficult to heal. The Tincture may cause irritation and burning.
is somewhat strong but effective for fresh
wounds. Also good for herpetic whitlow (an , Horseradish should be avoided by
infection of the herpes virus around the people with hypothyroidism, gastritis,
fingernail) and other persistent and peptic ulcer disease, and kidney
complicated injuries. disorders.
, Horseradish should not be used by

women during pregnancy or breast-
feeding or by children under four years
of age.
48
Horsetail
Equisetum arvense
Synonyms: Bottle-brush, Horse Willow, Horsetail contains the highest amounts of

Paddock-pipes, Pewterwort, Scouring Rush, Silica of all known herbs. In addition to Silica,
Shave Grass, Toadpipe. Horsetail contains large amounts of potassium
as well as starch and many fatty acids.
Parts used: Whole plant. When collecting
Horsetail it is important to gather the right Use Horsetail in a Compress for sores,
variety (Equisetum palustre is poisonous). psoriasis, eczema, chilblains and varicose veins.
It will soothe and reduce itchiness.
and properties: In folk medicine, Horsetail Main constituents: Silica (5-8%), saponins
has been used for tuberculosis, profuse (5%), tannins and flavonoid glycosides. Large
menstrual bleeding, brittle finger nails, hair amounts of silicic acid and silicates (about
loss, water retention, bed wetting, rheumatic 15%), flavonoids, phenolic acids, alkaloids
diseases, gout, swelling, fractures, frostbite, (including nicotine) sterols and phytosterols,
and nasal, pulmonary, and gastric bleeding. saponins, bitter principle, minerals (potassium,
manganese, magnesium, calcium, chromium,
Reportedly first recommended by the iron, phosphorus, and selenium), tannins.
Roman physician Galen, several cultures have
employed Horsetail as a folk remedy for Skin and Body Care: Often called the
kidney and bladder troubles, arthritis, ‘Beauty Herb’, Horsetail is considered to
bleeding ulcers, and tuberculosis. In addition, strengthen connective tissue and skin. It: is
the topical use of Horsetail was used clarifying; is astringent; closes the pores; and
traditionally to stop the bleeding of wounds stimulates production of new skin cells when
and promote rapid healing. It is a good spring used to treat eczema. Because of its high silica
cleaning detoxification herb. There is content the whole plant is used as an abrasive.
evidence that Horsetail builds the immune
and nervous systems. It is recommended for A strong Decoction is used externally for
urinary tract infections. In addition, the plant Baths, Foot Baths and Compresses in the
can incorporate dissolved gold and other treatment of problematic sores, psoriasis,
minerals into its structure and is used in eczema, athlete's foot and other fungicidal
Europe as a treatment for arthritis. ailments.
Hair and Nail Care: Because of its high

Silica content, Horsetail is excellent for adding
strength, thickness and shininess to hair.
Simply add a strong Decoction of Horsetail to
your Shampoo recipes. Add to a Hair Rinse
and use regularly for an effective tonic against
dandruff and fungi.
Take internally to improve the condition of
your skin and nails.
Dental Care: The dried herb is ground to

produce an abrasive powder used to remove
tartar on the teeth.
The Decoction or diluted Tincture is used as a

Gargle for throat infections.
Equisetum arvense
- 49 -
Hyssop
Hyssopus officinalis
A personal note about Horsetail from Synonyms: None.

Kolbjorn Borseth:
Parts used: Aerial parts. i.e. stem, leaves and
While talking to the retired managing doctor flowers.
of the Dr. Hauschka skin care company in the
1990s, he very much stressed the use of Traditional use & history: The name
Horsetail preparations for healing psoriasis, ‘Hyssop’ is derived from the Hebrew ‘ezob’
due to the herb’s high silica content. So, I meaning ‘holy herb’. A member of the mint
recommend that you always use Horsetail in family, whose flowers and evergreen leaves
your products for psoriasis. You can also take have long been used as a stewing herb or
silica tablets internally while using external flavouring for foods and beverages and as a
psoriasis products. folk medicine, Hyssop reportedly originated in
the area around the Black Sea in central Asia
, Don’t pick your own Horsetail without and today is widely cultivated in other arid
knowing being absolutely sure that you can regions, partly because it thrives even in the
identify it properly. You may easily mistake most desolate soils.
it for a poisonous type.
It is found native in the Mediterranean region
and is commercially cultivated in Europe,
Preparation and usage of Horsetail:
Russia and India. In the past, Hyssop was so
highly esteemed it was regarded as a virtual
Make a strong Decoction that will extract
cure-all. Once widely cultivated for medicinal
parts of the Silica from the Horsetail.
uses, it is now grown mostly as an ornamental
NB The herb has to be boiled for 20-30
shrub. Currently an undervalued medicinal
minutes so that the Silica is extracted.
herb, Hyssop is potentially useful, as it is both
calming and tonic.
For Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Foam Baths,
use a Decoction made with 15-20g dried herb Hyssop has long been used as a folk medicine
per 1 litre of water. for colic, flatulence, and indigestion; or taken
as a hot tea for bronchial infections; or used
For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g of the topically on cuts & burns. The antimicrobial
dried herb, or 500g of the fresh herb for the properties of Hyssop have been subjected to
whole bath. controlled studies and it is one of the more
For Wet Compresses use 25-30g dried herb
per 1 litre of water.
For use as an abrasive Tooth Powder, grind

the dried herb in a coffee grinder, dip
toothbrush into the rough powder and brush
teeth.
Add the dried ground herb 2-5% to

Toothpaste Recipes.
For Gargles or Mouth Washes, use a strong

Decoction of 25-30g per litre of water or up
to 10% of the Tincture diluted with water and/
or other ingredients.
Hyssopus officinalis
50
credible medicinal herbs. An ancient medicinal the same way as Sage, with which it is
cleansing herb, it was also used for its flavour sometimes combined to make a Gargle for a
and aroma to preserve meat. sore throat. Hyssop tea can be used for poor
It is mentioned in both the Old and New digestion, breast and lung problems, coughs
Testaments of the Christian bible as a due to colds, nose and throat infections,
cleansing agent, including David’s prayer in mucous congestion in the intestines,
Psalms, ‘Purge me with Hyssop, and I shall be flatulence, scrofula, dropsy, jaundice, and even
clean’. The East Indians knew it, and both the asthma. Hyssop serves not only as a culinary
Arabs and Jews venerated the plant. herb but in many countries including Hungary,
Dioscorides recommended boiling it with rue where it is used as a folk medicine against
and honey for a cough. In Sicily it is believed certain respiratory diseases and winter colds.
to ward off the evil eye and evil magic. Early
20th century doctors who recommended External use - Skin Care: According to
herbs in the United States used the herb famous 20th century herbalist Maurice
externally to soothe burned skin. Today, Mességué, Hyssop contains substances which
France is the major producer of Hyssop and protect the skin against sunburn so makes and
Hyssop is used to flavour various liqueurs, excellent addition to Sun Protection Creams.
including Chartreuse. Hyssop is antiperspirant and astringent, like
Sage, and can be used in Deodorants. Used as
Possible future uses: Test tube studies a Compress for varicose ulcers and other
have found that certain fractions of Hyssop infected sores, which are difficult to heal, and
(one being a polysaccharide designated as for eczema and burns. Also for fungal
MAR-10) may inhibit the activity of the human infections and insect bites. An Infusion in a
immunodeficiency virus (HIV). Yet, there have Compress together with Arnica makes an
been no studies in humans to determine effective Compress for treating superficial
whether Hyssop or any of its constituents are bruises. Hyssop is used in Whole Body Baths
effective in treating HIV infection or AIDS. to heal ulcerated or irritated skin.
, The Infusion and Tincture of Hyssop are Hair Care: Adding an Infusion of Hyssop to
unlikely to cause adverse effects. Although Hair Rinses and Shampoos will help to get rid
the volatile oil present in Hyssop, of lice and also to cure beard itchiness.
particularly its constituent pinocamphone,
Oral Care: Use in Mouth Washes and
has been reported to cause seizures in
Gargles for inflammation of the oral cavity and
laboratory animals as well as in humans. So,
throat.
Hyssop should not be used for those with
epilepsy or any other seizure disorder or Preparation and usage of Hyssop:
during pregnancy. Check with a qualified
herbalist to check which doses are safe or Make a strong Infusion to use in your
whether to make use of it at all. products.
For Compresses, Washes, and Deodorants,
Main constituents: Its active constituents
Hair Rinses, Shampoos, Conditioners and
are volatile oil, flavonoids, tannins and the
Creams and Lotions, particularly Sun products
bitter substance, marrubin. Also contains
use 15-20g dried Hyssop per 1 litre of water.
0.3-1% Essential Oil, including thujon, 5-8%
tannins, flavonoid glycosides, diterpenoid
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of dried
lactones, triterpenoids, diosmin, oleanolic acid,
Hyssop.
pinocamphone, isopinocamphone, and
hyssopin. , Pinocamphone can cause seizures Use 1% Essential Oil of Hyssop in the same
(see end of Hyssop section for more details). product as you are using the Infusion.
Internal use: Hyssop is used in essentially
- 51 -
Lady's Mantle
Alchemilla vulgaris
Synonyms: Bear's Foot, Lion's Foot, Nine Internal use: It is used internally for
Hooks, and Stellaria. excessive or irregular menstruation, as well as
menopausal problems. Lady's Mantle is a great
Parts used: Leaves and Root. herb to use in cases of mild diarrhoea and
cankers and a Gargle is effective for sore
Traditional use & history, description throats. It also has venotonic properties,
and properties: Lady's Mantle is a perennial which makes it useful to treat vascular (vein)
herb found in Europe, North America, and problems.
Asia that has been used medicinally since the
middle ages. In the medieval period Lady’s External use - Skin and Body Care: Used
Mantle was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The in Skin Care products for its healing effects. It
herb came to be known as Lady's Mantle is said to soothe, cleanse and heal dry,
because of the scalloped shape of its leaves, sensitive skin. It reduces swellings, is good for
which were thought to resemble the mantle of chapped and broken skin on the hands and
the Virgin Mary. The crystal dewdrops on the feet. In addition, it has an astringent effect on
leaves have long inspired poets and alchemists the skin and protects newly formed elastin
and it is said that they used to the dewdrop to fibres. Elastin is required for skin elasticity, and
transform lead into gold. That is why the is a protein in the skin, which together with
flower is called ‘alchemilla’. It was said to have collagen and glycosaminoglycans, makes up the
healing and magical properties, even to connective tissue. Its astringent properties
preserve a woman's youth. also make it effective for treating skin with
large pores. Its venotonic properties help with
In folk medicine, Lady's Mantle has also been vascular health. It can furthermore be used to
taken for menopausal complaints, painful treat sores (including those on the scalp),
menstrual periods, mouth and throat septic wounds and inflamed skin such as
infections, eczema, and skin rashes. The leaves eczema and psoriasis.
can also be boiled to make a light, green dye.
Add Lady’s Mantle to Anti-Wrinkle Creams,
Main constituents: 6-8% tannins, consisting Whole Body and Foot Baths, Compresses,
mainly of glycosides of ellagic acid; flavonoids, Facial Steam Baths, Face Toners and Cleansing
bitter principles, traces of Essential Oil; and a Creams and Lotions.
trace of salicylic acid.
Eye Baths: It is used as Eye Baths for the
inflammation of the mucous membrane in the
eyes.
Oral Care: It is also used as a Mouth Wash

after tooth extraction.
Preparation and usage of Lady’s Mantle:
Make an Infusion to use in your products.
For Creams, Lotions, Compresses, Facial

Steam Baths, Mouth Washes, Skin Toners,
Foam Baths, Shampoos and Eye Baths use
15-20g dried, or 150-200g fresh, herbs to 1
litre of water.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g, or 500-
1000g fresh leaves, for the whole bath.
NB For treating eczema, leave the herbs in
Alchemilla vulgaris
the bath for the best results.
52
Lavender
Lavendula angustifolia/officinalis
Synonyms: English Lavender, True Lavender has been prized for its wonderful
Lavender. perfume since Elizabethan times when it was
used for sweetening washing water and
Parts used: Flowers. disguising smells. The reverence for its
perfume still continues today and Lavender
Essential Oil is very, very popular for use at
and properties: The name Lavender comes
home by people who use it for its relaxing
from the Latin root ‘lavare’, which means ‘to
properties. Apart from its medicinal uses, it
wash’. Lavender has been used for centuries
has culinary and cosmetic uses as well. You
as an herbal remedy for its antiseptic,
can use Lavender to make Lavender sugar,
antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory,
jellies, ice cream and vinegars. It can also be
anticonvulsive, as well as antidepressant
crystallised for use as a cake decoration.
properties.
The Romans introduced Lavender and its uses There is a lot of folklore surrounding
into England and Europe. They used the Lavender for e.g. the belief that putting the
flower heads in their communal baths not only flowers between the bed sheets will ensure
for their fragrance but probably also as an that a couple will never quarrel. Lavender is
antibacterial agent. The ancient Greeks are native to the Mediterranean region and is
also thought to have used Lavender for cultivated in large quantities in France, Spain,
treatment of throat infections and chest Britain, Australia, Russia, and Eastern
complaints. In medieval times herbalists used European countries, particularly Bulgaria.
Lavender to prevent head lice. For many
centuries Lavender flowers have been tied Recent studies bear out years of anecdotal
into small bundles and placed into pillows or evidence showing that Lavender produces
laundry to make them smell pleasant and to calming, soothing, and sedative effects and it is
keep bugs away. very widely used both internally and externally
for a number of reasons.
Although it is the Lavender Essential Oil that

is most often used, the fresh or dried flowers
and the Tincture made from Lavender flowers
are all still popular for both internal and
external use. The dried flowers are used in
sleep and dream pillows, in pot pourris,
sachets and tucked in drawers to freshen
clothing and repel moths.
Main constituents: The most abundant

constituents are the Linalyl esters -
predominately Linalyl-acetate - with lesser
amounts of linalyl-butyrate, linalyl-caproate,
linalyl-isobutyrate and linalyl-valerate. Also
present are linalol, cineole, geraniol, borneol,
camphor, pinene, limonene, b-Ocimene,
tannins, flavonoids, phytosterols, and caproic
acid. The most fragrant and valuable Essential
Oil preparations have the highest
concentration of linalyl-acetate, sometimes up
to 70%.
Lavendula angustifolia/officinalis
- 53 -
Internal use: Internally, Lavender as an Oral Care: Used as a Mouth Wash, it makes
Infused Tea or as a Tincture, is believed to be an excellent breath freshener.
of benefit for a multitude of problems,
including allergies, asthma, bronchitis, Hair Care: Infusion of Lavender flowers
inflammations, throat infections, stress, makes a good Hair Rinse to help reduce hair
nervousness, anxiety, palpitations, exhaustion, loss and dandruff. Add also to Shampoos.
irritability, headaches, migraines, insomnia,
depression, colds, digestion, flatulence, upset Preparation and usage of Lavender:
stomach, liver and gallbladder problems,
nervousness, and for loss of appetite, etc. Add Lavender to Compresses, Whole Body
and Foot Baths, Facial Steam Baths, Creams,
External use - Skin and Body Care: Ointments, Lotions, Face Toners, Cleansers,
Lavender is considered to be a Beauty Hair products, Deodorants, Mouth Washes
product. Lavender has many sedative and Insect Repellents.
compounds that can penetrate the skin.
Especially good for normal and dry skin, Make an Infusion, then keep the lid on and
Lavender is also used as a tonic for all types of allow to draw for 30 minutes. Then combine
skin. As a treatment for wounds, the Tincture with the Essential Oil or Hydrolate during the
is considered to be the most effective making of the product.
(contains both the Essential Oil and tannins).
When using pure Essential Oil it is best to mix For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, Mouth
it with an Oil, Lotion or Cream base. A Washes, Cleansers, Toners, Facial Steam
Macerated Oil can be made using the fresh Baths, use 15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of
flowers and used as a relaxing Face or Body water.
Massage Oil.
For a Whole Body Bath use 50-100g of dried
All types of Lavender have excellent healing Lavender Flowers or 500-1000g of fresh
properties and it is applied topically to treat flower heads.
cuts, sores, scrapes, sprains, wounds, burns,
bee, wasp, and insect stings, rashes, muscle For Baths, Mouth Washes, Compresses, Skin
aches, lumbago, rheumatism, arthritis, cold Toners, Insect Repellents and Deodorants,
sores, canker sores, fungal infections, acne, use a strong Lavender Infusion by using 25-30g
eczema, blisters, bruises, athlete's foot, or dried flowers per 1 litre of water or you can
rubbed directly into the temples in case of use a mixture of 20% Lavender Flower Water
headache or migraine. You can also use a (Hydrolate) and 80% water.
Hydrolate and Still Water mixture instead of
an Infusion, which is especially effective for Use 5-10% Lavender Tincture in Ointments.
treating acne, inflammations, eczema and
wounds.
A Whole Body Bath is an excellent way to

both enjoy the relaxing benefits of Lavender
and also to calm skin after too much sun. To
maximise the relaxing and soothing effects,
combine with Chamomile flowers in an
Infusion for the Bath.
54
Lemon Balm
Melissa officinalis
Synonyms: Melissa, Common Balm, Sweet Today, Lemon Balm is mainly used for its
Balm, Balm. soothing effect, to strengthen the nervous
system in cases of depression, melancholy,
Parts used: Whole plant (leaves). migraine etc. The Infusion is supposed to be
antiviral.
and properties: The word Balm is an Main constituents: Essential Oils (mainly
abbreviation of ‘Balsam’, the chief of sweet- citral and citronellol, eugenol, flavonoids,
smelling oils. It is so called from its honeyed triterpenoids, rosmarinic acid, ferulic acid,
sweetness. It was highly esteemed by methyl carnosoate, hydroxycinnamic Aacid,
Paracelsus, who believed it would completely polyphenols, and tannins.
revivify a man. It was formerly esteemed of
great use in all complaints supposed to Skin Care: Effective in Creams and Toners
proceed from a disordered state of the for mildly oily skin. It cleanses and closes open
nervous system. pores, has an astringent and soothing effect
when used as a Face Toner or a Facial Steam
Charlemagne (714-814AD) once ordered Bath for tired, sensitive skin. Used externally
Lemon Balm planted in every monastery for pain associated with the nervous system,
garden because of its beauty. The London rheumatic pain, healing of wounds (enhances
Dispensary (1696) says: 'An essence of Balm, scar tissue formation) in Compresses, in
given in Canary wine, every morning will Baths, Creams and Lotions. Lemon Balm is
renew youth, strengthen the brain, relieve also used in Baths for melancholy and
languishing nature and prevent baldness.' John insomnia.
Evelyn wrote: 'Balm is sovereign for the brain,
strengthening the memory and powerfully Hair Care: Add to Shampoos for a soothing
chasing away melancholy.' Balm steeped in effect.
wine we are told again, 'comforts the heart
and driveth away melancholy and sadness.' Tip: Genuine Essential Oil of Lemon Balm is
Formerly a spirit of Balm, combined with very expensive. All of the less expensive
lemon-peel, nutmeg and Angelica Root, Essential Oils are mixtures containing other
enjoyed a great reputation under the name of Essential Oils with similar constituents, such as
Carmelite Water, being deemed highly useful citronellol.
against nervous headache and neuralgic
affections. Preparation and usage of Lemon Balm:
Make an Infusion to use in your products.
Prepare Infusion, cover with a lid, and allow to
draw for 30 minutes. You can also use the
Tincture in your products as this is the best
way to preserve the Essential Oil content. The
Essential Oil evaporates very easily with drying
and storage; once gone the herb has a
different effect as the tannins become
dominant and the soothing effect disappears.
For Creams, Lotions, Shampoos, and Foam

Baths infuse 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of
water, or use 100-110g fresh herb per 2 litres
of water.
For Whole Body Baths use 50-100g of the

dried herb or 400-500g of the fresh herb for
the whole bath.
Melissa officinalis
- 55 -
Marigold
Calendula officinalis
Synonyms: Calendula, Pot Marigold. Formerly its bright orange flowers were used
to give cheese and other foods a yellow-
Parts used: Flowers. orange colour in the absence of saffron.
Marigold is an excellent remedy for cuts and
Traditional use & history, description wounds, and their antiseptic and healing
and properties: Calendula is one of the best properties help to prevent the spread of
known and versatile healing herbs and is rich infection and speed up the rate of repair.
in herbal history, widely used by herbalists
throughout the centuries. Calendula is Used externally in the treatment of chronic,
believed to have originated in or near the slow healing sores such as bed sores and
Mediterranean and is now naturalised all over varicose ulcers. Also for frostbite, burns and
the world. The herb is also known as common eczema. Marigold, through the combined
Marigold or ‘pot Marigold’ because the dried action of its Essential Oil, which is antibiotic,
flowers were traditionally used in soups and and other constituents, stimulate the immune
stews to help ward off illness. system and enhance the body's fight against
infection. It rapidly promotes skin tissue repair
Ancient Egyptians and Romans valued and minimises scar formation, is anti-
Calendula highly, and, noticing that in their inflammatory, and promotes granulation.
warm, temperate climates it was always in Other key actions of this plant are the
bloom on the first day of each month, called it following: astringent, heals wounds, antiseptic,
‘calends’, after the calendar. It is known as the antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral, constricts the
flower of the sun, with its petals of golden capillaries, (an action that explains its
orange. They have also been associated with effectiveness for cuts, wounds, varicose veins,
the sun's journey across the sky because they and various inflammatory conditions).
open when the sun rises and close as it sets.
The herbalists Culpeper and Gerard refer to Calendula provides effective treatment for
Calendula as a comforter of the heart and most minor skin problems. It is used for cuts,
spirits. In some traditions, Calendula is a scrapes, wounds, red and inflamed skin,
symbol of endurance. including minor burns and sunburn, for acne,
rashes, and fungal conditions. It is helpful for
nappy rash and soothes nipples that are sore
from breast-feeding.
Also used as a Hot Compress in the

treatment of, and to draw out, boils and
carbuncles (infection of the hair follicle) and
used externally for varicose veins and as a
Mouth Wash for gum infections.
Main constituents: Essential Oil 0.02%,

calenden, calendulin, mucilage, saponins,
organic acids, enzymes, resins, carotene
pigment xanthophyll, salicylic acid,
carbohydrates, cadinol, isorhamnetin,
triterpenes, sesquiterpenoids, scopoletin,
flavonoids, quercetin, kaempferol.
Skin, Hair and Body Care: Used for its

healing and tissue regenerating properties for
all skin types and conditions, including
sensitive skin and for babies. Marigold is good
Calendula officinalis to use in all cases where cell regeneration is
56
required such as in cases of sunburn, sores, picked just after opening (not when they are
where skin has been removed and also where old). Marigold should be picked when the
the skin is red and irritated. Also good as a flower is completely dry e.g. at the end of a
regular Wash for spots, acne and boils. Use sunny day. Use them as they are, or dry them,
either a strong Infusion or the Tincture and make a Tincture or Infusion. You can add
combined with Arnica Tincture for sprains, 2-3% of Marigold CO2 Extract to your
bruises, burns, frostbite and cold sores. products too.
For excellent Healing Ointments, add Marigold

Tincture with Marigold CO2 Extract to your
, Marigold CO2 Extract will colour your
product yellow.
Ointment recipe. Due to its carotene content,
in Marigold Ointment is excellent for healing For use in Foot and Hand Baths, use 15-20g
chapped skin on hands and feet. The carotene dried flowers, or 100g of fresh flowers, per 1
is a powerful antioxidant and so works well to litre of water.
fight the free radicals, the cause of the
chapped skin. For an Antiseptic Mouth Wash, use a strong
Infusion or up to 10% Tincture diluted in
A simple Marigold Ointment Compress can be water or other ingredients.
made by applying a generous amount of
Ointment onto the affected hand or foot, For Shampoos, Conditioners and Creams, use
cover it with a cotton gloves or cotton socks, 10-15g dried flowers, or 80-100g of fresh
then a plastic glove or bag, and finally with flowers, per 1 litre of water. In addition to the
another cotton glove or cotton sock. Leave Infusion, you can add 2-3% Marigold CO2
on overnight, repeat a few nights in a row and Extract.
you will see an improvement in less than a Add 3-5% Tincture, or 1-3% CO2 Extract, to
week. an already-made Cream base.
A strong Infusion is helpful for use in Wound For Healing Ointments, add 5-10% Marigold
Compresses and you can dilute the Tincture Tincture together with 2-3% Marigold CO2
in water for an especially effective Wound Extract to your Ointment recipe.
Wash.
For use as a Cleanser or in Compresses,
either use or make a strong Infusion by using
, If you are going to use a Marigold 15-20g dried flowers per 1 litre of water, or
Compress to help treat eczema, never
150-200g of fresh flowers per 2-3 litres of
leave it on the affected area for more than
water and use accordingly.
1 hour as some people may have an
allergic reaction to it if left on for a longer For an effective Wound Wash, dilute 3-6% of
period of time. the Tincture in water.
Hair Care: A Calendula Hair Rinse adds Marigold Tips: In Skin Care products it is a
shine to the hair and can also be used to good idea to use the Botanical CO2 Extract
highlight the hair slightly red – simply use a and the Tincture or Infusion or so as to gain
strong Infusion. the benefits of both the fat-soluble (Essential
Oil, carotene and resin) and the water-soluble
Oral Care: Marigold makes an effective (viscous and saponins) constituents of the
antiseptic Mouth Wash to treat inflamed plant. The combined action of these
gums. constituents produces better results.
Genuine Essential Oil of Marigold is not
Preparation and usage of Marigold:
available and what is mistakenly sold as Oil of
Marigold does not grow in the wild but is very
Marigold is in fact made from Tagetes (African
easy to grow. The whole flower head is used,
Marigold).
- 57 -
Myrrh
Commiphora myrrha
Synonyms: Gum Myrrh, Sweet Cicely. stimulate macrophages (key players in the
body’s immune system) in test tube studies.
Parts used: Gum Resin and Oil.
Myrrh is an astringent, healing, tonic and
Traditional use & history, description stimulant. It is also: a direct emmenagogue; a
and properties: The red-brown resin and tonic in dyspepsia; an expectorant in the
oil of Myrrh has been used since ancient times absence of feverish symptoms; a stimulant to
as an ingredient in incense, perfumes, etc and the mucous tissues; a stomach carminative; an
in the holy oil of the Jews and of the Kyphi of appetite and gastric juice stimulant; an
the Egyptians for embalming and fumigations. astringent wash; an antiseptic for topical use;
It was also used as a remedy for numerous an antiparasitic used to treat schistosomiasis
infections, including leprosy and syphilis. In (also known as ‘bilharzia’).
addition, Myrrh was recommended by
herbalists for relief from bad breath and for Studies continue on the potential anticancer
dental conditions. In Traditional Chinese and pain-relieving actions of Myrrh resin.
Medicine, it has been used to treat bleeding Human clinical trials are lacking to confirm
disorders and wounds. most uses of Myrrh and yet it has been wisely
used since ancient times.
Myrrh grows as a shrub in desert regions,
particularly in north-eastern Africa and the Main constituents: Volatile oil, resin
Middle East. The resin obtained from the (myrrhin), gum, polysaccharides, benzoates,
stems is used in medicinal preparations. sulphates, malates, ash, triterpenoids,
triterpene acids, and an Essential Oil
The three main constituents of Myrrh are the containing sesquiterpenes and furano
resin, the gum, and the volatile oil. All are sesquiterpenes.
thought to be important in Myrrh’s activity as
a herbal medicine. The resin has reportedly Oral Care: Myrrh is widely used in oral care
been shown to kill various microbes and to for its excellent antibacterial and pain-relieving
properties. Use of Myrrh Tincture, Infusion,
or diluted Essential Oil as a Mouth Wash or
Rinse is good for soothing and helping to heal
spongy, infected, inflamed and diseased gums,
tooth disease, halitosis, promoting general
dental health, ulcerated throat and ulcerative
colitis, sore throats; cold sores, canker sores.
Myrrh Resin is a common ingredient of Tooth
Powders.
Mouth Wash Recipe

(Good for killing bacteria, and fungi such as
Candida albicans, increasing the circulation
and healing wounds.)
30 ml Myrrh Tincture
20 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil
10 drops Peppermint Essential Oil
5 drops Sweet Fennel Essential Oil
Method
1. Measure ingredients and mix together.

Commiphora myrrha 2. Place 5ml of this mixture into a glass of
58
Nettle, Stinging
Urtica dioica, urens.
lukewarm water, stir and then use as a Synonyms: Common Nettle, Stinging
Mouth Wash or Gargle. Nettle.
Skin and Body Care: In addition, Myrrh Parts used: Whole plant, including the
Tincture is used internally and externally for roots, but mainly aerial parts such as leaves
skin disturbances, including boils. The Tincture are commercially available.
has also been used extensively in Wound
Ointments and can be used undiluted as a Traditional use & history, description
Wound Wash. Add Myrrh Tincture to Skin and properties: Stinging Nettle (Urtica
Care products such as Creams, Lotions and dioica and the closely related Urtica urens)
Ointments for mature, dry or chapped skin. has a long history of use. The tough fibres
from the plant stem have been used to make
Nail Care: As a powerful antiseptic and cloth, and have been traditionally used as a
antifungal, Myrrh is an excellent ingredient for cleansing spring tonic and a nourishing
Nail Baths to be used for finger- and toe- nails. vegetable if gathered when the leaves are
young. The plant takes minerals from the soil,
Antifungal Nail Bath Recipe making them a good remedy for anaemia; and,
Excellent for treating fungus nail condition, with the high Vitamin C content, the iron in
and is also good for adding to any of your Nail the herb is easier to absorb.
products. From ancient Greece to the present, Nettle
has been documented for its use in treating
40ml Water coughs, tuberculosis, and arthritis,
10ml Myrrh Tincture rheumatism, eczema, gout, and anaemia and
20 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil for stimulating hair growth. Dioscorides, the
10 drops Myrrh Essential Oil 1st century Greek physician, listed a range of
5 drops Lavender Essential Oil uses for Nettle, including the fresh, chopped
This Nail Bath will last for 1 year without leaves as a Plaster for septic wounds, the juice
Preservatives. for nosebleeds, and the cooked leaves mixed
with Myrrh to stimulate menstruation.
Method
1. Measure and mix together.
2. When ready to use, put some of the
solution in a bowl and dip your nails in it
for 10 minutes.
Preparation and usage of Myrrh: (See

Recipes for Mouth Wash and Nail Care). In
addition:
Use Myrrh Tincture, Infusion, or diluted

Essential Oil or a combination of them all as a
Mouth Wash, Rinse or Gargle.
Add up to 15% of the Tincture to Creams,

Lotions and Ointments. You can also add 0.5%
(about 12 drops per 100ml) of Myrrh Essential
Oil to your products that already contain the
Tincture or Infusion.
Use undiluted Myrrh Tincture for an excellent

antiseptic Wound Wash.
Urtica dioica
- 59 -
The Aztecs made medicinal use of the several Main constituents: High chlorophyll
species native to Mexico. The Aztec Herbal of content, xanthophyll (yellow pigment),
1552, recommended sniffing a mixture of carotene, tannins, carbohydrates, amines
crushed Nettles in milk to stop a nosebleed. It (histamine, choline, acetylcholine, serotonin),
also prescribed a combination of Nettles formic acid, glucoquinones, minerals (including
crushed in water and boiled as a Poultice for silicic acid, calcium, potassium, iron,
arthritis. chromium, magnesium, and zinc), Vitamins A,
B, C, K, protein, mucilage, sterols and phenols
In medieval Europe, diuretics and remedies for (root), flavonoids (including rutin), volatile oil,
joint problems were made from Stinging nitrates (1-3%), 5-HTP.
Nettle. Healers in several traditions used the
branches of Stinging Nettle to strike the arms Uses of Nettle: Astringent; anti-allergenic;
or legs of paralysed patients in order to circulatory stimulant; diuretic; lowers blood
activate their muscles. This whipping sugar levels; nutritive; promotes milk flow
technique, also known a whisking, is used in (leaf); prevents scurvy; reduces prostate
some healing traditions to stimulate the enlargement (root); stops bleeding; tonic.
organs and relieve the pain of sore muscles.
Infusions are taken to stimulate the circulation
Medieval monks would flagellate themselves
and to cleanse the system for arthritis,
with Nettle for penance. This was also done
rheumatism, gout, and eczema, as well as to
by Roman soldiers, but to warm themselves.
increase milk flow in nursing mothers.
They are said to have introduced the plant to
Britain to help them better adapt to the cold, Fresh shoots make a revitalising spring tonic
damp, climate. For stimulating hair growth, the and are often used just as a vegetable.
European herbalists recommended combing
the hair daily with expressed Nettle juice. Tinctures are used in combination with other
herbs for arthritic disorders, skin problems,
The plant has long been valued for its sturdy and heavy uterine bleeding.
stem, similar to flax and hemp, which can be
Compresses soaked in diluted Nettle Tincture
used to make fabrics ranging from fine linen to
are applied to painful joints, sprains, neuralgia,
burlap and rope. In the remote Asian
tendonitis, or sciatic areas.
mountain kingdom of Bhutan, yarn is made
from Himalayan Nettles. It has been said that, Ointments, Creams and Gels are used to treat
up to the 19th century, half of the farmers of haemorrhoids and eczema.
Bhutan dressed in Nettle cloth.
Washes are applied to burns, insect bites, and
Native Americans used it to treat bronchitis wounds.
and other respiratory problems and for
The stinging hairs on Nettle are sharp,
digestive problems, urinary tract disorders,
polished spines that contain histamine and
diarrhoea, and gout.
formic acid, irritating chemicals that are
released when the plant comes in contact with
The common Nettle is one of some 500
the skin. While the hairs, or spines, of the
species that can be found growing in
Stinging Nettle are normally very painful to
temperate regions throughout the northern
the touch, when they come into contact with
hemisphere, southern Africa, the Andes, and
an area of the body that is already in pain, the
Australia. Young shoots are picked in spring
chemicals can actually decrease the original
for use as a tonic and vegetable. The aerial
pain. This is why Stinging Nettle is called a
parts are harvested while flowering, and the
counterirritant. Applying juice from the
roots are unearthed in the autumn.
Stinging Nettle to the skin can actually relieve
painful Nettle stings or insect bites.
Today, many people use it to treat urinary
60
problems during the early stages of an stimulates the blood circulation, reducing the
enlarged prostate (called Benign Prostatic secretion of fat and generally drying out the
Hyperplasia, or BPH), for urinary tract scalp. Its daily use will incidentally colour the
infections, for kidney stones, for hay fever hair a dark, red colour. However, washing the
(allergic rhinitis), or in Compresses or Creams hair with the Infusion works better for this
for treating joint pain, sprains and strains, purpose.
tendonitis, and insect bites. In fact, some small
but well-designed studies are beginning to Kolbjorn’s Tips for Hair Care products:
confirm that certain traditional uses When adding Nettle to Shampoos, Hair Rinses
(particularly to treat BPH and osteoarthritis) and Hair Packs, its advisable to add herbs with
have scientific validity, especially when used in a high saponin content, such as Birch leaves or
conjunction with other anti-inflammatory Horsetail. The saponins open up the pores so
medications. Plus, recent laboratory studies that the minerals in the Nettle can penetrate
are offering plausible explanations for the the scalp easier.
reason that Stinging Nettles might help
rheumatoid arthritis, as well as several of the Nettle Hair Rinse
conditions already mentioned.
(Recipe makes approximately 100ml Rinse.)
In previous animal studies, Nettle has been
shown to relieve pain, have mild anti- 120ml Vodka
inflammatory effects, and to lower blood sugar 3-4g dried, or 20g fresh, Nettle Leaves
levels. Active compounds in Stinging Nettle 1g dried Birch leaves or 10g fresh Birch leaves
may act as expectorants (meaning that it can 3ml D-Panthenol
loosen and break up a cough) and have 1ml/g Sorbitol
antiviral properties. 10-15 drops Essential Oil (add last)
Nettle may also be effective for treating Method for making Nettle Hair Rinse
certain individuals with allergic rhinitis 1. Allow the Nettle to soak in the alcohol
(hayfever). This traditional use has had a lot of for 2 weeks.
historical value for individuals. Early studies of 2. Shake the bottle every other day during
people suggest that this historic use is very the 2 weeks.
likely scientifically valid. 3. Strain off the leaves.
4. Add the other raw materials and bottle.
Skin Care: Used in Compresses, in Lotions 5. Use 2-3 times a week.
and Creams for oily skin, it is cleansing,
clarifying and emollient and soothes sensitive Preparation and usage of Nettle: When
skins with surface blood capillaries. The using Nettle in a water solution, it works best
Tincture can have a positive effect on dry, when used as a Decoction. To make a
sensitive skins with eczema or allergic rashes. Decoction, boil 5-15g of dried Nettle in 1 litre
This is because of the antihistamines and of water, or 50-150g of the fresh leaves in 2-3
sulphur found in the Tincture. litres of water for 10 minutes and then leave
for 30 minutes. The Decoction will be very
Hair Care: Used extensively in Hair Care green and will colour Shampoos and Creams.
products where it is supposed to counteract
hair loss, prevent and cure dandruff, reduce
oily secretions and improve the quality of dry,
, Nettle has a strong odour and colour, so
do not use too much and use Essential Oils
lifeless hair and stimulate the scalp. Best
to mask the smell if necessary and colour
results for hair care are achieved through
the product with your choice of Colour or
Rinses and Hair Packs (better than Shampoos).
Pigment.
The Tincture has been used often as an
alcohol-based Hair Rinse. It works well for Use the Decoction or diluted Tincture in
treating dandruff and an oily scalp as it Compresses (15-20g per 1 litre of water),
Lotions, Creams and Shampoos.
- 61 -
Orris Root
Iris - florentina, Germanica, or pallida
Synonyms: Iris Root. commercially in Tooth Powders, Toothpastes

and snuff because of its pleasant smell. It
Parts used: Decorticated rhizome. tempers bad breath. The dried root is good
for babies to chew on while teething. The
Traditional use & history, description carbohydrates, Essential Oils and tannins work
and properties: From ancient times the together to produce an astringent, protective
stately Iris has stood as a symbol of power and and healing effect..
majesty. It was dedicated to Juno in Roman
times and the Egyptians placed it on the brow Iris continues to be used in the preparation of
of the Sphinx and on the sceptre of their essences for Soaps, Perfumes and Skin Care
kings, the three leaves of its blossoms typifying products (e.g. in Weleda's Iris collection). Is
faith, wisdom and valour. The Iris flower also used as a fixative in Perfumes and pot
(‘fleur de lis’) has represented the French pourris.
monarchy since medieval times.
Main constituents: Essential oil containing
The root has also been extensively used
10% iron (violet-smelling constituent),
historically as a healing agent for coughs,
glycoside (iridin), tannins, more than 50%
dropsy, internal parasites and snake bites. It
starches and carbohydrates.
has played a major role in the history of many
countries, in magic, religion and medicine.
Skin and Body Care: Considered to have a
The smell and taste are aromatic. The fresh
positive effect on the moisture content and
root contains a sharp, acrid substance which
elasticity of the skin. Mildly refreshing and
induces vomiting and colic with diarrhoea.
astringent, it regulates moisture exchange in
This substance is converted when the root is
the skin which helps the skin to rid itself of
dried. In the past it has been used
dead particles and other toxins. Genuine
Essential Oil of Orris Root is very expensive.
A strong Decoction of the root can be used.
Boil with the lid on for 15-20 minutes. For
Skin Care products use 20g of the root per 1
litre of water.
Add the powdered Orris Root to Peeling

Creams and as Peeling Grains to soap.
Oral Care: Use Orris Root Powder as it is

for a Tooth Powder. Simply dip toothbrush
into the Powder and brush teeth. Add 10% of
the finely ground root to Toothpaste recipes.
Other fragrant ideas: To make your own

Iris perfume, you can add 30g of Orris Root
powder or 60g of fresh, chopped roots to
100ml of Vodka. Leave for 2 weeks, shaking
daily, and then strain. Bottle in a perfume
bottle – it’s as simple as that!
Orris Root powder is also a lovely choice for

fragrant wardrobe sachets or incense, or to
use the freshly chopped root in pot pourris.
Iris - florentina, Germanica, or pallida

62
Peppermint
Mentha piperita
Synonyms: Brandy Mint. Peppermint is used externally as an

antibacterial, astringent and anti-inflammatory
Parts used: Leaves. for healing wounds. The Essential Oil is used
for itchiness (itchy eczema, insect bites).
Traditional use & history, description Analgesic (pain-relieving) for headaches and
and properties: Peppermint is a hybrid of migraines. Its menthol content has a
Watermint and Spearmint and was first stimulating effect on the skin's cold receptors
cultivated near London in 1750. Recognized in giving it a cooling (pain relieving/analgesic)
the early 18th century, the historical use of effect on the skin.
Peppermint herb is not dramatically different
than its use in modern herbal medicine. Menthol and Peppermint Oil should be used
Classified as a carminative (prevents and with care when taken internally especially with
relieves intestinal wind) herb, Peppermint has children (in whom it can cause respiratory
been used as a general digestive aid and distress). There are many different kinds of
employed in the treatment of indigestion and Mint all with similar actions, apart from
intestinal colic by herbalists. Spearmint, which contains only small
quantities of Menthol, and Japanese Mint,
Peppermint is now cultivated widely, which contains a high level of Menthol. The
particularly in the U.S. and Europe. The two Essential Oil is widely used in foodstuffs,
main cultivated forms are the Black Mint, natural products, sweets and chewing gum. It
which has violet-coloured leaves and stems is used to flavour Toothpaste and in Mouth
and a relatively high Oil content, and the Washes for its pleasant taste and smell and for
White Mint, which has pure green leaves and a its antibacterial properties.
milder taste. The leaves are used medicinally.
It is valuable in the treatment of Irritable
Bowel Syndrome (combination with Caraway
Oil); strokes; periodontal disease; shingles;
chronic candidiasis; colic; common cold;
gallstones; injuries, infections; inflammations;
back pain; painful attacks of gout and
rheumatism; and as a Gargle for painful gums
and teeth.
Main constituents: 1-3% Essential Oil (50-

80% menthol), 3-12% tannins, bitter principles,
flavonoid glycosides and carotene.
Approximately 0.1–1.0% volatile oil which is
composed primarily of menthol (29–48%) and
menthone (20–31%).
Skin Care: Peppermint cools, refreshes,

stimulates and revitalises. It is considered to
restore elasticity to the skin, to tone tissue,
close pores, reduce swellings, counteract bad
smells, reduce redness and irritation and
clarify the skin. Peppermint Water (a
Hydrolate) is often used in combination with
the Essential Oil and an Infusion of the dried
herb. The Hydrolate diluted in water used as a
Skin Toner is especially effective for oily and
Mentha piperita large pored complexions. It is also commonly
- 63 -
Plantain
Plantago major L.
used for its cooling and soothing qualities in Synonyms: Ribwort. (This is NOT the
Ointments and Creams for the feet. An banana-like vegetable of the same name.)
Infusion used in Whole Body Baths is
excellent for treating itchy skin. Parts used: Leaves.

Summer Skin Care products: Add a
and properties: Plantain leaf has a long
strong Peppermint Infusion along with
history of traditional use as a medicine, dating
Peppermint Essential Oil and Aloe Vera to
back to ancient Roman and Greek times. The
your Cooling Summer Creams, Lotions and
leaves, seeds, and roots are highly
Gels and in Creams for treating itchy skin.
mucilaginous and Plantain has a rich history of
traditional use, particularly in the treatment of:
Eye Care: Use a Peppermint Infusion, once
sores; wounds; cuts; and skin ailments and
cooled, as a soothing, cooling Eye Compress.
inflammations of all types including eczema
and dermatitis; insect bites; diseases related to
Around the house: A strong Peppermint
the respiratory organs, digestive organs,
Infusion or the Hydrolate both make a cooling
reproduction, and circulation; cancer; earache;
and uplifting Air Freshener Spray.
for pain relief; and infections.
Kolbjorn’s Peppermint Bath Tip… In addition, it was considered by herbalists to
Due to its menthol content, Peppermint has a be a gentle, soothing expectorant and was
cooling effect in a Bath. It is wise to use it with most used traditionally internally to suppress
caution in a Bath as the menthol can make you coughs and soothe mucous membrane
feel cold. So it is therefore only recommended inflammation associated with bronchitis, colds
for itchy skin. and upper respiratory congestion. These
green, weedy plants are native to Europe and
Preparation and usage of Peppermint: Asia, but now grow practically anywhere in
For most products, use either the Essential the world where there is sufficient water.
Oil, the Hydrolate or a strong Herbal Infusion,
or a combination of them.
To make an Infusion for Foam Baths and

Compresses use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre
of water or 150-250g of the fresh herb per
2-3 litres of water.
For Whole Body Baths, use 50g of the dried,

or 200-250g of the fresh, herb for the whole
bath.
To make a Skin Toner, dilute a maximum of

20% Hydrolate with water.
Add up to 5-6% Tincture and 0.5% Essential

Oil to Foot Ointments and Creams.
For Cooling Summer Creams, Lotions and

Aloe Vera Gels and in Creams for itchy skin,
use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of water or
150-200g of the fresh herb per 2 litres of
water (allow to infuse for 20 minutes)
together with Peppermint Essential Oil.
Plantago major L.
64
Plantain should not be confused with the rinse the earth or dirt from the leaves
banana-like vegetable of the same name. The before using them in Poultices. This is
leaves of Plantain are primarily used as very important.
medicine. The seeds of Plantain can also be x When using fresh leaves as a Drawing
used medicinally, having mild laxative effects Poultice on a wound, use the underside
similar to the seeds of psyllium, a close of the leaves (the side that grows
relative of Plantain. towards the ground and on which the
veins are visible) in the first stage of the
Main constituents: 2-6.5% mucilage; 6.5% treatment. Once the infection has been
tannins; iridoid glycosides; phenylethanoids; drawn out, apply the top side of the
over 1% silicic acid; phenolic carboxylic acids; Plantain leaf to the wound. This side of
flavonoids; vitamins A, C, and K and several the leaf stimulates the wound to heal.
minerals, including calcium, magnesium, x Another way to use the leaves as a
sodium, potassium, phosphorous, zinc, copper Poultice, is to put the leaves in a blender
and cobalt. and apply the green ‘porridge’ to the
affected area, cover with a cotton cloth,
Today, Plantain is used in much the same way
then clingfilm, and lastly wrap with a
as it has been traditionally has with more uses:
stretch bandage.
x Some prefer to mash, chop or blend the
Internal use: Used as a special children’s
leaves; others prick the leaves with a
remedy for coughs and diarrhoea; for post-
needle before using them as a Poultice.
partum bleeding or haemorrhaging; it is also
You can also use the dried leaves for
mentioned in many European pharmacopoeias
Compresses during winter. Simply
as an emollient and for curing inflamed gums.
moisten them before use on the skin.
Its mild astringent effect is said to help remedy
haemorrhoids or bladder infections with mild Preparation and usage of Plantain: For
amounts of blood in the urine; coughs; Creams, make an Infusion by using 15-20g per
asthma; bronchitis; ulcers; diarrhoea; litre of water and use instead of water in the
haemorrhoids; cystitis; liver tonic; ulcers, Cream Recipe.
including malignant ulcers; and hayfever.
For Drawing Poultices: finely chop or blend a
External use - Skin Care: Plantain is an Plantain leaf then mix with a pinch of cayenne
effective topical treatment for a number of powder. Apply directly to the affected area
conditions, namely: wounds of all kinds – and bandage lightly. Change every 4 hours.
particularly effective at removing the itch from Whole leaves can also be used for Drawing
bites and the sting from cuts and grazes Poultices – see Kolbjorn’s second Tip above.
(Poultices, Gels, Creams); most skin disorders
including psoriasis, cracked skin, eczema, and For Oils and Ointments, use up to 10% of the
pimples (Creams, Gels, Baths); haemorrhoids Tincture.
(Ointments, Creams, Gels); nappy rash
(Ointments, Creams, Baths, Gels); minor For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g dried
burns including mild sunburn (Compress, Oils, herb or 500-1000g fresh leaves for the whole
Creams, Gels); insect bites (Creams, Poultices, bath. NB For treating eczema, leave the herbs
Gels); Conjunctivitis (Eye Washes); gum in the bath for the best results.
disease and inflammation, and mouth ulcers
(Mouth Washes). For Eye Washes, use an Infusion (10-15g dried
leaves per 1 litre of water).
Kolbjorn’s Tips for Plantain Poultices:
x If you pick your own Plantain leaves, be For Mouth Washes, use up to 10% of the
sure they haven't been sprayed with Tincture diluted in water or other ingredients
chemicals and remember to thoroughly of your choice; or use a strong Infusion along
with other ingredients of your choice.
- 65 -
Rose
Rosa alba, Rosa centifolia, Rosa gallica,
Rosa damascena
having special properties, namely sweet, cool,
Synonyms: There are many synonyms for pungent and yet slight bitter. In that tradition
the different types of Roses – too many to list it is prescribed as a cooling tonic for a variety
here. of conditions i.e. as a heart tonic, to combat
fatigue, lethargy, muscular aches, biliousness,
Parts used: Flowers and buds. There are itching, and heat, as well as improving
several different varieties of Rose and all of digestion and metabolism and helping to heal
them can be used, although different varieties pimples and old blemishes.
will have different properties. Red rose petals
of Rosa gallica, for example, are mildly Western herbal medicine doesn’t use the
astringent. Pale Rose petals are obtained from Rose petals in the same way as Ayurveda
the cabbage rose, Rosa centifolia, and contain does, but it has been used for many medicinal
a small quantity of volatile oil and a trace of a purposes in the past, namely as a heart,
bitter principle, to which slightly purgative stomach, and liver tonic and a remedy to
properties have been attributed. prevent vomiting, stop tickling coughs and to
heal consumption. Rose Baths have also been
Traditional use & history, description used to ease rheumatic and joint ailments.
and properties: Sappho, the Greek poetess,
writing about 600 BCE, selected the Rose as Main constituents: Essential Oil 0.02-0.03%
the Queen of Flowers and perhaps no flower with other constituents, tannins, glycosides
is more recognizable and no aroma more and pigments. It contains more than 300
evocative than that of the Rose. Its rich known compounds, yet the main chemical
fragrance has perfumed human history for components of Rose Oil can be listed as:
generations, from ancient Persian gardens, citronellol, phenyl ethanol, geraniol, nerol,
where the Rose was probably first cultivated, farnesol and stearpoten with traces of
to extravagant Roman banquets whose nonanol, linalol, nonanal, phenyl acetaldehyde,
revellers feasted amongst soft piles of Rose citral, carvone, citronellyl acetate, 2-
petals. Fresh Roses were also macerated in phenylmenthyl acetate, methyl eugenol,
hot fat to produce fragrant pomades in ancient eugenol and rose oxide.
India, Greece and Egypt.
The healing tradition associated with the Rose

is no less remarkable than its fragrance and
beauty. The 17th-century English physician
Culpeper wrote that red Roses strengthen the
heart. He may have been referring to a
physical action, but anyone who has inhaled
fresh roses or their Essential Oil knows that
the aroma strengthens the heart emotionally,
and on a deeper level, as well.
Culpeper attributed other properties to the

Rose that foreshadowed its current use in
aromatherapy and cosmetics. He
recommended extract of Rose for its cooling
and astringent benefits, useful for headache
and tired eyes. He also suggested an Ointment
of Roses to ‘cool and heal ‘pushes’, wheals and
other red pimples rising on the face’.
Rosa alba, Rosa centifolia, Rosa gallica,
Today, Ayurvedic medicine recognises Rose as
Rosa damascena
66
Skin Care: Rose Oil, Rose Water and an Preparation and usage of Rose: If making
Infusion made from Rose Petals are used in an Infusion from the Rose petals, use the
Skin Care products for tender, dry, sensitive amount recommended for each product and
skin and have a cleansing, astringent, toning, allow to stand for approximately 20-30
moisture retaining, stimulating, antibacterial, minutes before using. Rose Water (Hydrolate)
healing and soothing effect. When Rose is and Rose Essential Oil (Rose de mai or Rose
included in a Cream or Lotion, it stimulates Otto) can also be used either in combination
and protects the skin, while moisturising and with the Rose Infusion, or on their own.
hydrating it.
For Foam Baths and Shampoos, use a strong
It gives a boost to all skin types, and is Infusion plus Essential Oil. To make the
particularly beneficial to dry, mature and Infusion, use 15-25g dried Roses per 1 litre of
sensitive skin. Of course, Rose has the added water, or 150-250g fresh Rose petals per 2-3
benefit of its wonderful fragrance, which litres of water.
makes it popular in Skin Care products. It
helps to reduce skin redness, fight For Whole Baths use 50-60g dried, or 500-
inflammations, as well as to fix broken 600g fresh, Rose petals, for the whole bath.
capillaries on the skin. It also acts as a general
skin tonic with its astringent properties. For Face Washes, Eye Washes and Skin Care
products such as Creams, Lotions, etc use 15-
Rose has remarkable harmonising and 20g dried Roses per 1 litre of water, or 150-
balancing Skin Care qualities and Rose petals 200g fresh Rose petals per 2-3 litres of water.
have long been used for softening and
rejuvenating skin. A Wash made from strong When making an Infusion of Rose petals, add
Infusion of Rose petals is excellent for treating Lactic or Ascorbic acid to deepen the red
acne, blackheads, small sores, bumps, oedema colour of the Infusion. Adding alkaline raw
and boils. Rose Water (Hydrolate), recovered materials make it blue to green.
from the distillation of Rose Essential Oil, is
mildly astringent and beneficial for cleansing For a Room Spray or Skin Toners, just add
and refreshing dry, sensitive skin. Rose Hydrolate to a bottle with a spray cap.
You can also mix it with smaller amounts of
Hair Care: Use Rose petal Infusion or the other Hydrolates according to your
Hydrolate as a substitute for water in your preference.
Shampoo or Hair Rinse Recipes.
Eye Care: Use the Infusion in an Eye

Compress to reduce swollen skin around the
eyes.
- 67 -
Rosemary
Rosmarinus officinalis
Synonyms:: Rosmarinus prostratus, weak heart, reducing palpitations; a good

Rosmarin, Old Man. remedy for dropsy and for headaches caused
by feeble circulation. It has also been used
Parts used: Leaves. historically for culinary purposes and in Oil for
muscle liniments.
and properties: Traditionally, Rosemary has Its use as a massage remedy to treat
been used by herbalists to improve memory, rheumatism and sciatica goes back 700 years
relieve muscle pain and spasm, stimulate hair ago. In Hungary, in 1235, Queen Izabella was
growth, and to support the circulatory and stricken with a paralysing illness. A hermit
nervous systems. It is also believed to affect came to court with a preparation of Rosemary
the menstrual cycle, act as an abortifacient steeped in distilled wine [Rosemary Tincture],
(inducing miscarriage), relieve menstrual which cured her. The rumour spread
cramps, increase urine flow, and reduce throughout Europe of the benefits of this
kidney pain (for example, from kidney stones). ‘water’ and it became popular with its use
expanding for the treatment of gout and
Rosemary has long had a reputation for baldness too.
strengthening the memory. On this account it
became the emblem of fidelity for lovers. Not Main constituents: 1-2% Essential Oil,
only was it used at weddings, but also at approximately 8% tannins, saponins, bitter
funerals, for decking churches and banqueting principles and flavonoid glycosides, borneol,
halls at festivals, as incense in religious iso-bornyl acetate, carnosol, cineole, pinene
ceremonies, and in magical spells. Rosemary and camphor, linalol, rosmanol, terpeniol and
was one of the cordial herbs used to flavour verbinol, rosmarinic acid, flavonoids, and
ale and wine and was said to be quieting to a limonene.
Internal use: Rosemary is still used as a

culinary herb; for increasing circulation; as a
muscle relaxant; for reducing headaches; to
treat colic; to treat colds; to treat nervous
conditions; to improve food absorption by
stimulating and soothing the digestion, the
liver, the intestinal tract, and the gallbladder
and to treat stomach cramps and flatulence; as
a menstrual tonic; as a tonic, invigorating herb;
for its antibacterial and antifungal properties;
as an antioxidant (for medicinal use and as a
preservative in food and cosmetics); for its
antispasmodic effects; in the preparation of
Eau-de-Cologne; and as an ingredient in
Benedictine.
Rosemary and Coltsfoot leaves are considered

effective when rubbed together and smoked
for asthma and other throat and lung
problems. Recently, Rosemary has been the
object of laboratory studies investigating its
potential in the prevention of cancer and its
antibacterial properties.
Rosmarinus officinalis
68
External use: Used externally primarily for healing agent. The Mouth Wash or Gargle can
its stimulatory effect in increasing blood help to treat sore throats, gum problems, and
circulation in the skin which can affect the canker sores. Make a refreshing, antibacterial
body in many ways. Used in aromatherapy Mouth Wash by adding 5-10% Myrrh Tincture
(Essential Oil only) as a stimulus for nervous to a strong Infusion of Rosemary.
disorders (poor memory, heart and
circulatory problems), for gout and muscular Around the home: Make a refreshing and
aches. It is warming, slightly analgesic and is stimulating Air Freshener Spray by using either
also used for headaches, tiredness, Rosemary Hydrolate on its own or combining
disturbances of the circulatory system and to it with a strong Rosemary Infusion.
increase virility. Use of undiluted Essential Oil
of Rosemary on the skin for prolonged Preparation and Usage of Rosemary: It
periods can produce extensive rashes and is added to and used in Baths, Steam Baths,
blisters. Rosemary is used as a fragrant Compresses, Ointments, Liniments, Creams,
additive in Soaps, Shampoos, Creams and Mouth Washes, Shampoos, Conditioners, Hair
other cosmetics. Packs, etc. It is primarily the Essential Oil
which is used but in Skin, Body and Hair Care
Skin Care: Considered to stimulate blood products it can be beneficial to use both a
circulation and to restore elasticity to the strong Infusion of Rosemary (contains
skin, Rosemary is also effective for lifeless and saponins and tannins) and Rosemary Essential
oily skin, for blackheads and spots Oil.
(antibacterial). An Infusion can also be used as
an invigorating Skin Toner and astringent. For Foam Baths, use Rosemary Infusion in
your Recipes. To make the Infusion, use 20-
Rosemary added to a Bath strengthens and 25g dried Rosemary per 1 litre of water or
refreshes, especially when used following an 200-250g of fresh Rosemary per 2-3 litres of
illness. Make a very strong Infusion and water, plus Rosemary Essential Oil.
combine with 10ml Arnica Tincture and add
to Whole Body Baths to treat oedema and For Whole Body Baths, use 25g of the dried,
swollenness due to sprains and bruises. A or 100g fresh, leaves for the whole bath.
strong Infusion (without the Arnica) is
excellent for easing joint pain. For Compresses or Wound Washes use 10-
15g dried Rosemary leaves per 1 litre of water
Use an Infusion for bathing wounds; it is or 50-100g of fresh Rosemary leaves per 2-3
especially effective for infected and hard-to- litres of water plus Rosemary Essential Oil
heal wounds. Apply also to insect bites, burns (just a few drops).
and eczema.
For Skin Care products such as Creams and
Hair Care: It is used in Hair Care products Lotions and for Shampoos, add an Infusion and
to counteract dandruff, hair loss, and for oily Rosemary Essential Oil (just a few drops) to
hair. Use an Infusion as a Hair Rinse to lighten your Recipes. To make the Infusion, use 10-
blond hair, and to condition and tone all hair. 15g dried Rosemary per 1 litre of water or
It has long been used in Shampoos and 50-100g of fresh Rosemary per 2-3 litres of
traditional Hair Lotions to promote hair water.
growth and to prevent premature baldness by
increasing the circulation in the scalp, thus For Mouth Washes or Gargles, use either a
improving nourishment to the hair follicles. strong Infusion (use 15-20g dried Rosemary
per 1 litre of water or 80-100g of fresh
Oral Care: Rosemary is also used in Rosemary per 2-3 litres of water) or up to
Toothpastes, Mouth Washes and Gargles as 10% of the Tincture diluted in water or other
an antibacterial, antiseptic, astringent and ingredients of your choice.
- 69 -
Sage
Salvia officinalis
Kolbjorn’s Rosemary Tincture-making Synonyms: Garden Sage, Red Sage, Broad-

Tip: leaved White Sage, Narrow-leaved White
Sage.
To make your own Rosemary Tincture:
Parts used: Leaves, which can be picked
Step 1 both before and after flowering.
In a glass jar, add 10-15g of dried, or 50-60g of
fresh, Rosemary leaves to 100ml Vodka. Traditional use & history, description
and properties: The botanical generic name
Step 2 for all the Sage family is derived from the Latin
Leave in the glass jar and shake the mixture ‘salvere’, to save, cure or thrive, a lasting
vigorously once a day, every day for 2 weeks. testament to its ancient reputation as a
medical cure-all. Sage has one of the longest
Step 3 histories of use of any culinary or medicinal
Then strain. It is ready to use and will keep for herb. So strong was the faith in Sage that, by
2-3 years. around the 10th century CE, it had acquired
the reputation of being able to confer
immortality.
Sage was the herb originally used in Europe

for making tea long before the introduction of
Indian tea and the Chinese traded their own
green tea with the Dutch in return for
supplies of the herb. The Chinese healers
considered it to be strengthening to the
digestive system and calming to the nerves.
It was used by herbalists externally to treat

sprains, damaged tissue, swelling, ulcers,
Salvia officinalis
70
chilblains, bruises, ringworm, fungicidal attacks An unpublished, preliminary German study

and bleeding. Internally, a tea made from Sage with people suffering from excessive
leaves has had a long history of use to treat perspiration found that either a dry leaf
sore throats and coughs - often used as a extract or an Infusion of the leaf reduced
Gargle. It was also used by herbalists for sweating by as much as 50%. This cooling
rheumatism, excessive menstrual bleeding, and property also makes it an ideal remedy for
to dry up a mother’s milk when nursing was fevers and flushes, especially those
stopped. It was particularly noted for experienced during the menopause.
strengthening the nervous system, improving
memory, and sharpening the senses. Sage was External use: Sage is an astringent and has
officially listed in the United States an antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral effect.
Pharmacopoeia from 1840 to 1900. Also for washing, bathing and wrapping
varicose ulcers and other sores, which do not
Sage has had its cosmetic uses too; the ancient heal easily.
Romans used a strong Infusion of the herb to
darken their hair. It has also been used for Skin and Body Care: Use Sage for:
moth proofing. Sage is very attractive to bees treating oily, spotty skin and for wrinkled,
and Sage honey is highly regarded by sagging complexions (Skin Toners, Lotions,
aficionados. Native to the Mediterranean Creams, Gels); cleansing, stimulating blood
region, Sage is now grown in all of Europe and circulation, closing pores and restoring
North America. elasticity (Skin Toners, Cleansers, Lotions,
Creams, Gels); treating eczema, spots and
, Because of its thujone content, it is advised rashes (Skin Toners, Cleansers, Lotions,
not to use too much during pregnancy and Creams, Gels); antibacterial properties in
in not too large an amount on a regular Deodorants, as well as Baths for treating
basis for all. Even when consumed in small sweaty feet. It is astringent and the thujone is
amounts for long periods of time, thujone antibacterial and antiperspirant (it takes about
may cause increased heart rate and mental 1 hour for it to become effective). Sage Oil
confusion. Very high amounts may lead to inhibits the action of glands like the sweat and
convulsions or epileptic fits. Sage should be saliva glands.
avoided when fever is present. Extracts of
Sage made with alcohol are likely to be Hair Care: Sage helps to prevent hair loss
higher in thujone than those made with by strengthening and disinfecting the scalp.
water. These concerns do not extend to (Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Conditioners).
the use of Sage as a Gargle or Mouth When used as a Hair Rinse it may darken the
Wash. colour of the hair (not everybody’s hair
responds to this).
Main constituents: 0.5-2.5% Essential Oil
(30-50% thujone), tannins, saponins, flavonoid Oral Care: The Infusion or diluted Tincture
glycosides, monoterpenes, carnosol, rosmanol, is used as an excellent antiseptic Mouth Wash
rosmarinic acid. and Gargle for inflammations of the oral cavity
and throat.
Internal use: Infusion or Tincture of Sage
has antiseptic and antibacterial properties and Preparation and usage of Sage: For Foam
has traditionally been used as a Mouth Wash Baths, Compresses, Face Washes and Sore
to cure mouth ulcers and gum infections and Washes use approximately 10-12g dried
as a Gargle for sore throats. Some herbalists leaves per 1 litre of water or 30-40g of fresh
use Sage to aid digestion of heavy, rich foods leaves per 2-3 litres of water.
and can help to combat a tendency to
sweating. Sage is also approved in Germany For Whole Body Baths use 20-25g dried, or
for mild gastrointestinal upset and excessive 70-100g fresh, Sage for the whole bath.
sweating.
- 71 -
St. John's Wort
Hypericum perforatum
For Lotions, Skin Toners, Creams, Gels and Synonyms: Amber touch-and-heal, Balm of
Shampoos, use an Infusion in your Recipe. To warrior’s wound, Devil’s scourge, Lord God’s
make the Infusion, use 8-10g dried leaves per Wonder plant, Hierba de San Juan, Witcher’s
1 litre of water or 30-35g of fresh leaves per herb, Hypericum millepertuis, etc.
2-3 litres of water.
Parts used: Aerial parts or if for a
For Mouth Washes or Gargles, use a strong Macerated Oil, then only the flowers, or just-
Infusion (15-20g of dried Sage per 1 litre of opened buds of the flowers.
water or 40-60g of fresh leaves per 2-3 litres
of water) or up to 10% of the Tincture diluted Traditional use & history, description
in water and/or other ingredients of your and properties: This plant is named for St.
choice. John, the Baptist, and the word ‘wort’ comes
from an Old English word meaning ‘root’.
For Deodorants use a strong Infusion and/or Sometimes called the 'sunshine herb', it has a
Essential Oil of Sage and other Essential Oils 2400-year history of safe and effective usage in
such as Lemon and Lavender. To make the folk, herbal, and ancient medicine. Hippocrates
strong Infusion, use 15-20g dried leaves per 1 himself prescribed Hypericum as medicine. In
litre of water or 40-60g of fresh leaves per 2-3 ancient Greece, St. John’s Wort was used to
litres of water. treat many ailments, including sciatica, fever
(refer to Elderflower in this Guide) and
For Hair Care products use both the Infusion poisonous reptile bites. In Europe, St. John’s
and Essential Oil. There are several varieties Wort was used by herbalists for the topical
of Sage. treatment of wounds and burns.
Kolbjorn’s Tip for buying dried Sage…
When buying the herb always buy the kind
which contains thujone, recognisable by the
smell of Sage associated with the culinary
herb.
Recipe for Sage Mouth Wash
10ml Sage Tincture

5ml Myrrh Tincture
5ml Marigold Tincture
1ml Peppermint Essential Oil
1ml Tea Tree Essential Oil
10 drops Sage Essential Oil
Method
1. Measure and mix together.

2. Place a teaspoon of this blend in a glass
of lukewarm water.
3. Gargle well.
Hypericum perforatum
72
It is also a folk remedy for kidney and lung Skin Care: St. John’s Wort soothes
ailments as well as for depression. Ancient irritations of the skin, with generally beneficial
Europeans believed it had magical protective effects as the herb has calming properties. St.
powers against disease and evil. It is native to John's Wort is mostly used externally in the
many parts of the world, including Europe and form of a Macerated Oil, an Infusion or a
the United States of America. Tincture, but these preparations are
increasingly been added to Creams and
In more recent times, St. John's Wort Ointments.
achieved instant fame in the USA and in
Europe when clinical studies confirmed its In Skin Care products it is advantageous to
effectiveness in the treatment of mild-to- use both the Macerated Oil and Infusion so as
moderate depression. The news came as no to benefit both from the water- and fat-
surprise to herbalists, who have long used St. soluble constituents. The active constituent
John's Wort not only for depression, but also hypericin is found in the flowers and is what
for the treatment of wounds, burns, injured gives the Macerated Oil its characteristic red
nerves, inflammations, ulcers, anxiety, and colour or this can be reddish brown if olive oil
other ailments. is used for extraction. Many of the St. John's
Wort Oils available for sale are a green colour
In Germany, more than fifty percent of (e.g. those extracted with CO2). This is
depression, anxiety, and sleep disorders are because the whole plant is used, which means
treated with St. John’s Wort. According to the chlorophyll content is higher and the
Norman Rosenthal, the author of ‘St. John's hypericin content lower.
Wort: The Herbal Way to Feeling Good’, St.
John’s Wort enjoys more than ten times the The plant has also generated intense scientific
sales than Prozac. interest because of its potential as an antiviral,
antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and astringent
The herb has also been shown to help people agent. It is particularly effective when applied
with seasonal affective disorder (SAD), a topically (in the form of an Ointment, Cream,
common form of depression believed to be or Gel) for the treatment of sunburn, first
caused by lack of light during autumn and degree burns, cuts, scrapes, bruises, boils,
winter. Recent research suggests that St. minor skin irritations and inflammations,
John's Wort has potential in the treatment of eczema, rheumatic and muscular aches and
premenstrual syndrome (PMS), obsessive pain associated with the nervous system, e.g.
compulsive disorder, menopause symptoms, myalgia. St. John's Wort Cream, Ointment or
and viral infections. Gel can also soothe the pain, burning and
itching of haemorrhoids. To treat oral herpes
Main constituents: St John's Wort contains
(herpes simplex), apply the St. John’s Wort
about 50 active constituents, but research
Tincture to the lips and sit out in the sun for a
indicates that the pigment, hypericin, which is
while.
found in the flowers, is the ingredient that can
help depression. The other major constituents
Ways to use St. John’s Wort Macerated
in St. John’s Wort include Essential Oil
Oil: The Macerated Oil is excellent for
(Oleum hyperici), dianthrones, flavonoids,
sensitive skin, easily irritated skin and infected
xanthones, tannins (mainly found in the
acne or spots.
leaves), glycosides, saponins and hyperforin.
Numerous studies show that hypericin
For a warming effect for stiff and tense
appears to act similar to drugs that are
muscles, neuro-inflammations, sciatica, and
Monoamine Oxidase (MAO) inhibitors and
back pain massage with warm St. John’s Wort
selective serotonin-reuptake inhibitors,
Oil or use warm Oil soaked in a cotton cloth
elevating mood and acting as a mild sedative.
as a warm, relieving Compress.
- 73 -
Thyme
Thymus vulgaris
For a cooling effect - which is appropriate Synonyms: Common Thyme, Garden

when stretching cramped or pinched muscles Thyme, Rubbed Thyme, French Thyme.
and easing pain - use unheated Macerated Oil
in a Compress or to massage the affected Parts used: Leaves and Flowering Tops.
area.
As St. John’s Macerated Oil is antiviral as well and properties: This valuable and still well-
as pain-relieving, the Oil works well for used culinary and medicinal herb was known
healing shingles and associated blisters. Apply to the Sumerians and used by the Egyptians,
the Oil up to 3 times a day. Greeks and Romans as a flavouring agent and
as a fumigant (in incense), but became known
Ways to use St. John’s Wort Infusion... in the 17th century as a treatment for lung
Thanks to the tanning agents found in the diseases and digestive disorders. The herbalist
herb, St. John’s Wort Infusion has excellent Nicholas Culpeper (1616-1654) praised
anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and wound Thyme as ‘a notable strengthener of the lungs’.
healing properties. The name is derived from ‘thumus’, the Greek
word for courage. In medieval times, knights
It can be used to wash wounds, bruises and wore sprigs of Thyme on their armour as a
smaller burns. Use 15-20g dried, or 150-200g sign of courage. The scent of Thyme was
fresh, herbs per 1 litre of water to make the thought to give them strength in the midst of
Infusion. battle, as well as relief from pain.
Use an Infusion in a Whole Body Bath to calm Thyme is indigenous to the Mediterranean
irritated skin. Use 50-100g dried, or 500- region and cultivated widely. Many current
1000g fresh, herbs for the whole bath. formulas for well-known brand Mouth
Washes and Vapour Rubs contain thymol, one
Hair Care: The Infusion makes a good Hair of the constituents found in Thyme.
Rinse for blonde highlights. Use 15-20g dried,
or 150-200g fresh, herbs per 1 litre of water
to make the Infusion.
, While St. John’s Wort is soothing to the

skin, it also makes the skin photosensitive
so the skin should not be exposed to
sunlight after St. John's Wort has been
applied externally, such as in a Cream,
Ointment or Macerated Oil. Even taking it
internally may make fair-skinned people
more sensitive to the sun. Hypericin
promotes blood circulation in the skin and
activates the finer capillaries.
, Research shows that taking St. John’s Wort

internally can counteract the effects of anti-
depressive drugs. If taking these drugs,
consult with your health care professional
before using St. John’s Wort internally.
Thymus vulgaris
74
Main constituents: The Essential Oils are Oral Care: Use Thyme in Mouth Washes to
the main active constituent, with the phenolic ease sore throats and to soothe irritable
compounds, thymol and carvacrol being coughs or to Gargles to help alleviate the
dominant. It also contains resin, tannins, gum, symptoms of laryngitis and tonsillitis. Add to
saponins and organic acids. Toothpaste for its antibacterial properties.
Internal use: Thyme is useful in treating oral Preparation and usage of Thyme: Use an
and respiratory infections, upset stomachs, Infusion (6-10g of the dried leaves per 1 litre
sluggish digestion, flatulence, colic, hysteria, of water, or 25-30g of the fresh leaves per 2-3
pain or discomfort experienced just before or litres of water) for Wet Compresses, Wound,
during a menstrual period, headache, to Cut and Scrape Washes, Foot Baths, Facial
promote perspiration, and as a stimulating Steam Baths, Hair Rinses, as a Mouth Wash or
tonic in convalescence from exhausting Gargle and use instead of the water in your
diseases. It is also an excellent expectorant Toothpaste Recipe. For Mouth Washes and
cough remedy, clearing congestion and Gargles you can also use up to 10% of the
reducing unnecessary spasm. It is often used Tincture diluted in water and/or other
to treat bronchitis, whooping cough and ingredients of your choice.
asthma. As a gentle astringent it has found use
in childhood diarrhoea and bed-wetting. Use 6-10g of the dried leaves, or 25-30g of
the fresh leaves for a Whole Body Bath.
Due to its strong antiseptic qualities, Thyme You can also add up to 0.5% Thyme Essential
destroys intestinal parasites. Research has Oils to these products.
demonstrated Thyme's properties as a
booster to the immune system. , If using in a Whole Body or Foot Bath,
make sure that the Essential Oil is
External use - Skin and Body Care: A dispersed properly, and is contained in, for
Strong Infusion of Thyme together with the example, Foam Bath or Turkey Red Bath
Essential Oil in Creams, Lotions, Gels and Oil.
Compresses makes an effective treatment for
neuralgic and rheumatic pains. Use in an
antiseptic Compress or Wash for infected
wounds, cuts and scrapes.
Add Thyme to Foot Baths to treat fungal

infections such as athlete’s foot and also to
Whole Body Baths or your Foam Bath Recipes
to alleviate vaginal yeast infections. Thyme
contains tannins that cause proteins in skin to
cross-link, forming a barrier to infection. Use
a strong Infusion and/or Thyme Essential Oil
in a Facial Steam Bath to treat coughs and
colds.
Add to your Deodorant Recipes for its strong

antibacterial properties.
Hair Care: Thyme is used as antiseptic Hair

Rinse to treat dandruff; use it twice a week
until it has cleared up. You can also add 15-20
drops of Tea Tree, and 2-3 drops of Lavender,
Essential Oil per 100ml of Hair Rinse.
- 75 -
Tormentilla root
Potentilla erecta, Potentilla tormentilla
Synonyms: Tormentil Root, Bloodroot, Germany in the Wiesental valley in Baden and
Biscuits, Earthbank, English Sarsaparilla, Ewe no salvation was in sight, a bird is said to have
Daisy, Flesh and Blood, Septfoil, Shepherd's come from the sky and chirped the following
Knapperty, Shepherd's Knot, Thormantle. song: ‘Eat Tormentil and pimpernell and keep
away the deathly knell’. The herb priest
Parts used: the root, which is dug up in the Johann Künzle wrote in 1911: ‘Gargling for 8
spring or autumn. days with Bloodroot water makes loose teeth
gain a hold again. For this purpose, decoct the
Traditional use & history, description chopped Bloodroot with hot water.’
and properties: The word ‘Tormentil’ is
derived from the Latin ‘tormentina’ meaning When the dried Peruvian Rhatany Root
intestinal cramps or colic and the use of arrived in Germany in the late 18th century,
Tormentil Root for these symptoms, as well Bloodroot faded into oblivion. In the First
as the twinges of toothache, goes back a long World War, Rhatany - coming from abroad -
way. ‘Potentilla erecta’ literally means an was in short supply, so people turned back to
upright powerful being (‘potentia’ = power, the indigenous Bloodroot, which actually
‘erectus’ = upright). The astringent and contains more tannins than Rhatany.
antibacterial action of Tormentilla Root was
known in antiquity. In the Western Isles of Scotland and in
Orkney, Tormentilla roots were used for
Hildegard von Bingen was aware of the tanning leather and considered superior even
benefits of this healing root and in the days of to Oak Bark, being first boiled in water and
the plague a heavenly voice is said to have the leather steeped in the cold liquor. The
drawn people's attention to Bloodroot, which Laplanders employed the thickened red juice
is what Tormentilla Root was called then. In of the root for staining leather red.
1348-49, when the plague was raging in
The dye, Tormentil Red, extracted from
Tormentil Root is used to make a red ink.
Traditionally, Tormentilla has been used as an
anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiviral, and
astringent to treat allergies, colitis, diarrhoea,
dysentery, gastroenteritis, gingivitis, heart
health maintenance, immune system, mouth
and throat inflammation, skin problems, and
vascular disorders.
In modern herbal medicine it is used

extensively as an astringent in diarrhoea and
other discharges, operating without producing
any stimulant effects. It also imparts
nourishment and support to the bowels.
According to the Doctrine of Signatures,

which according to medieval herbalists and
alchemists, was the idea that God has marked
everything he has created with a sign
(signature). This sign was an indication of the
purpose of the creation of the item.
Tormentilla Root is good for treating
problems or conditions involving the blood.
According to the Doctrine of Signatures, this
Potentilla erecta, Potentilla tormentilla
76
Wild Pansy
Viola tricolor
is because the fleshy part of the root becomes Synonyms: Heartsease, Garden Violet,
red after it has been cut. In this case, the Bonewort, Love Idol.
Doctrine of Signatures theory is correct, as
Tormentilla is good for stopping blood flow. Parts used: Whole plant. It is important to
collect the roots when harvesting. Can be
Main constituents: High concentration (15- picked throughout the summer.
22%) tannins (pyrogallol, catechin derivatives,
ellagic acid derivatives). Other main Main constituents: Mainly saponins,
constituents are the pseudosaponin especially in the roots. Also violine, flavonoid
tormentoside, quinovic acid, phenylpropanes glycosides (rutin, or Vitamin P – which helps
such as caffeic, p-coumaric, and sinapic acids, to increase the permeability of the blood –
as well as traces of Essential Oil. also found in garlic), resin, methyl-salicylic
acid, bitter principle, tannins, carbohydrates
Skin, Oral and Eye Care: Today and small quantities of Essential Oil in the
Tormentilla Root is mainly used externally for flowers.
its highly astringent properties due to its high
tannin content. The red pigment is able to Traditional use & history, description
penetrate bacteria and inhibit their and properties: Wild Pansy has long been
development and it is also anaesthetic. used as medicinal herb for cleansing toxins,
relieving pain and as a healing herb used both
Preparation and usage of Tormentilla: internally and externally.
To use, make a strong Decoction of 20-30g
dried Root per 1 litre of water or use the
Tincture.
Use a strong Decoction or up 15% of the

Tincture diluted in water and/or ingredients of
your choice as an astringent Mouth Wash or
Gargle for loose or bleeding gums, infections
and inflammations of the oral cavity (gums)
and throat.
Add up to 3% of the Tincture to your

Toothpastes.
As a strongly-made Decoction, it is
recommended as a good Wash for piles or an
eye Bath for inflamed eyes.
If a piece of cotton wool is soaked in the

Decoction and kept applied to warts, they
often disappear.
In Compresses for eczema, chilblains and

haemorrhoids.
Viola tricolor
- 77 -
Wild Pansy has been used to treat skin with Comfrey, it is said to reduce the size of
diseases, eczema, asthma and epilepsy. It was pores and to rejuvenate the skin.
also believed that the flowers were good for
the heart, hence its popular name of * A feverish condition in which there are
Heartsease. Today, Wild Pansy is used to alternating periods of chills, fever, and sweating.
treat eczema, psoriasis, acne, pruritis and
impetigo (skin infection around the nose and Hair Care: Used in Hair Care products such
mouth). It is also said to be effective for as Hair Rinses, Shampoos and Conditioners
‘cradle cap’. for conditions where sores are present or
there is eczema of the scalp.
The herbalist John Gerard (1545-1612) states:
'It is good…for such as are sick of ague*, Kolbjorn’s Skin Care Tips for Wild
especially children and infants, whose Pansy: Studies show that Wild Pansy has a
convulsions and fits of the falling sickness it is clear, positive effect on acne, eczema,
thought to cure. It is commended against impetigo, pruritis and baby’s Cradle Cap.
inflammation of the lungs and chest, and To make sure that you derive the best
against scabs and itchings of the whole body benefits from Wild Pansy for these conditions,
and healeth ulcers.' it is important to use the roots, which contain
the highest concentration of saponins in the
The flowers were considered cordial and plant. The saponins seem to exfoliate the
good in diseases of the heart, from which may eczema and any scaly skin from the skin.
have arisen its popular name of Heartsease as
much as from the belief in it as a love potion. Preparation and usage of Wild Pansy:
For all kinds of Skin Care products, including
On the European Continent, the herbaceous Eczema Creams and Gels. Make a strong
parts of the plant have been employed for Decoction of 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre of
their mucilaginous, demulcent and water by boiling for 15-20 minutes and
expectorant properties. The root and seeds allowing to draw for 1 hour.
are also emetic and purgative, which
properties, as well as the expectorant action Eczema Ointments are best made with a
of the plant, are doubtless due to the Tincture. Use 5-10% in your Recipes.
presence of the violine. Pansy leaves are also
used on the European Continent in place of For Shampoos, Conditioners, Foam Baths and
litmus in acid and alkali tests. Hair Rinses use 15-20g dried herb per 1 litre
of water.
Wild Pansy was formerly official in the United
States Pharmacopoeia, and is still employed in For Whole Body Baths, use 50-100g dried
America in the form of an Ointment and herb for the whole bath.
Poultice in eczema and other skin troubles,
and internally for bronchitis. Its external For Steam Baths and Compresses use 20-25g
application seems to be especially effective and dried herb per 1 litre of water.
safe to use on babies and children.
, When using Baths, Compresses and
Skin Care: Wild Pansy is healing, cleansing Poultices to treat conditions such as
and soothing and is used in Compresses, eczema or psoriasis, it is very important to
Baths, Steam Baths and in Creams and start with calming herbs for a week. Then
Ointments for Skin Care. It is especially you can continue the treatment with herbs
effective in helping to treat problem skin, that draw out infections, e.g. Wild Pansy.
acne, eczema, psoriasis and rough skin. Wild
Pansy can be used in Tincture form as an
ingredient in a Facial Toner. When combined
78
Witch Hazel
Hamamelis virginiana
Synonyms: Hamamelis macrophylla, Spotted itching eczema, bruises, etc. Its high tannin
Alder, Striped Alder, Tobacco Wood, content has a strengthening astringent effect
Winterbloom, Snapping Hazelnut. on veins and is therefore very useful for
treating varicose veins and minor capillary
Parts used: Leaves. problems.
Traditional use & history, description The external skin forms a protective covering
and properties: Witch Hazel is a winter after the tannins have tightened the proteins
blooming tree indigenous to Canada and the and underlying blood vessels, thus reducing
eastern United States. It is a traditional inflammation. Unlike Arnica, Witch Hazel can
remedy of North American Indians, who used be used on broken and damaged skin. It is
it as a Decoction in poultices for bruising, mildly antiseptic and soothing.
inflammation and venous problems (including
haemorrhoids). Its use spread to Europe after Witch Hazel is also said to stimulate the
Europeans settled in North America in the formation of new epithelial cells and is often
18th century. used cold or with ice to reduce the pain of
sprains and athletic injuries and to reduce
Main constituents: Tannins (up to 10%) swollen bruises. For this purpose, combine
and volatile oils are the main active with up to 5% of Arnica Tincture.
constituents in Witch Hazel. These
constituents contribute to the strong It is the classic Facial Toner, but don’t use
astringent effect of Witch Hazel. Also contains more than 10-30% in your Toner Recipes
saponins and glycosides. because it is so strong that it can sting your
skin. Because of its skin-tightening and
Skin Care: Witch Hazel is well used in the astringent properties, it is ideal for treating
cosmetic and toiletry industry in Face Toners, oily skin types, controlling minor pimple
Shaving Creams, Face Packs, After Shave formation, and skin with large pores.
Creams and Haemorrhoid Ointments, Creams
and Gels. The Hydrolate, Infusion or Tincture Hair Care: Use as an effective Hair Rinse to
of fresh leaves and twigs of Hamamelis are all combat dandruff. Make a strong Infusion or
used because of the herb’s astringent and anti- 30% Hydrolate diluted in water.
inflammatory effects, and has also been
recommended for certain skin conditions, Eye Care: Use Witch Hazel Infusion or 5%
such as boils, bed sores, insect bites, ulcers, Witch Hazel Hydrolate diluted in water in
combination with 5% Chamomile Hydrolate
or 1-2% Eyebright Tincture in an Eye
Compress to reduce swollen and puffy eyes.
Don’t use more than 10% of Witch Hazel
Hydrolate diluted in water around the eyes.
Oral Care: Add 5% Witch Hazel Tincture to

water and/or other ingredients or 20-30%
Witch Hazel Hydrolate to water /and or other
ingredients and use as a Mouth Wash or
Gargle to counteract gum or throat
inflammations. You can also add other
ingredients to the Mouth Wash or Gargle,
such as Myrrh Tincture, Tormentilla
Decoction or Tea Tree and Peppermint
Essential Oils.
Hamamelis virginiana
- 79 -
Yarrow
Achillea millefolium
Synonyms: Milfoil, Millefoil, Nosebleed,

Staunchgrass, Thousand-leaf, Soldier's
Pet Care: Witch Hazel is commonly used woundwort, Sanguinary, Bloodwort, Noble
for treating horses, but can be used on dogs Yarrow, Old Man's Pepper, Knight's Milfoil,
and cats as well. Use a Decoction made from Herbe Militaris, Thousand Weed, Carpenter's
the bark externally on varicose veins, Weed, Staunchweed, Devil's Nettle, Devil's
inflammation and bruising. Plaything, Bad Man's Plaything, Yarroway,
Angel flower.
,The Witch Hazel Water sold today in
chemists very often does not contain Parts used: Flowering tops.
authentic Witch Hazel extracts but
rather traces of Wintergreen oil in
and properties: Yarrow grows widely in
distilled water and alcohol. Wintergreen
Europe, North America, and Asia and has
needs to be used with caution as it is
traditionally been used in Europe, India and
very strong.
China to help stop minor bleeding and to treat
wounds; to treat inflammation in a number of
Witch Hazel After Shave Toner conditions, especially in the intestinal and
female reproductive tracts; and as a mild
Recipe sedative. The ancient Chinese fortune-telling
(Makes 100ml) system known as the I Ching first used dried
Yarrow stems, then later replaced them with
44ml Still Water coins.
30ml Witch Hazel Hydrolate
25ml Vodka Main constituents: A number of chemicals
10 drops Peppermint Essential Oil may contribute to Yarrow’s actions. The
Normally this will keep for at least 1 year volatile oil, which is rich in sesquiterpene
without any Preservative. To keep it longer, lactones and alkamides, has been found to
add a Preservative. have anti-inflammatory properties in test tube
studies.
Method
1. Simply measure the ingredients and

blend everything together in a bottle.
2. To keep for more than 8 months, add a
Preservative.
Achillea millefolium
80
Internal use: Yarrow is used internally for: hair. Used as a Hair Rinse, it is effective for
Colic; common cold; sore throat; Crohn’s treating dandruff, itchiness and small wounds
disease; indigestion and heartburn; on the scalp. It has also been shown to help
inflammation; premenstrual syndrome; counteract hair loss. Regular use of the Hair
ulcerative colitis; smooth muscle spasms. Rinse will gently bleach the hair.
External use: Used as a universal remedy in Oral Care: Yarrow makes an excellent
the treatment of: a wide range of wounds and astringent Mouth Wash to tighten gums.
sores; malignant sores; bruises and bumps;
swellings; cracked skin, nose bleeds; boils; Pet Care: The alkaloid obtained from
small burns; haemorrhoids; and varicose veins. Yarrow, known as achilletin, reportedly stops
It also staunches bleeding and tones the skin. bleeding in animals. Make a strong Infusion and
Used externally mainly for its antiseptic, anti- either apply topically or let the animal take it
inflammatory and astringent properties in the internally.
healing of sores as it stimulates granulation
through the combined action of the Essential Skin Toner for Oily Skin
Oil, alkaloids and tannins. (Makes approximately 100ml)
Skin Care: Yarrow is used for its astringent, 2 drops Lavender Essential Oil
healing and soothing effects on the skin. It 4ml Sage Tincture
strengthens skin tone. It can be used for oily 4ml Yarrow Tincture
skin, acne, large pores, wrinkles and eczema. 5ml Glycerine/Sorbitol
To make a Facial Toner, add 2.5% Yarrow 87ml Still Water
Tincture to your Recipes (see example of For Method see page 16.
Recipe below). Yarrow is often an ingredient
in certain products for dandruff, itchiness and Kolbjorn’s Yarrow-gathering Tip…
sores of the scalp, eczema-type rashes with Take care when gathering the flowers as the
sores and itchiness. fresh juice can cause photosensitivity in people
with sensitive skins.
Due its astringent, haemostatic (blood-
stopping), antiseptic and anti-inflammatory Usage and preparation of Yarrow: For
properties, Yarrow Tincture has a wide range use in Skin Care products it is best to use the
of uses. It is used as a Wash and in pure Essential Oil, as well as a strong Infusion
Compresses to treat wounds, boils, burns, or Tincture.
bruises, bumps, cracked skin and other skin
problems. For Hair Rinses and Foam Bath, Shampoo and
Cream recipes, use the Infusion. Use
Yarrow Tincture or Infusion together with the approximately 15-20g dried Yarrow flowers
pure Essential Oil can be added to per 1 litre of water or 150-200g fresh flowers
Compresses, Skin Toners, Baths, Ointments, per 2-3 litres of water.
Gels and Creams.
For Whole Body Baths use 50g dried flowers
For Whole Body Baths, use a strong Infusion for the whole bath.
of Yarrow to help treat weeping eczema and For Compresses use 20-25g dried Yarrow
other skin problems. flowers per 1 litre of water or 200-250g fresh
flowers per 2-3 litres of water.
Hair Care: Use Yarrow in Hair Care
products for its strengthening, drying and For Mouth Washes, use up to 10% of the
healing properties. Yarrow has a drying effect Tincture diluted in water and/or other
on the scalp, so only use in products for oily ingredients of your choice.
- 81 -
Glossary...
Acne: a skin disorder caused by excess production of oil from sebaceous glands
causing the hair follicles to become plugged. Hormone changes during
teenage years can cause oil glands to become overactive. Acne is
characterized by black heads, pimple outbreaks, cysts, infected abscesses,
and, sometimes, scarring.
Alterative: a medicine that gradually restores the healthy functions, hastens the
renewal of tissues and changes a bad condition in the blood.
Anodyne: a medicine that eases pain by lessening nervous sensitivity.
Antibacterial: has the same action as an antiseptic, but only acts against bacteria.
Antibilious: combats and stops biliousness (upset stomach caused by a disorder of the
liver or gall bladder).
Antifungal: has the same action as an antiseptic, but only acts against fungi.
Antimicrobial: same as antiseptic i.e. a substance that inhibits the growth of micro
organisms including bacteria, viruses and fungi, though some antimicrobial
herbs work for specific areas of the body only and may be used internally
or externally.
Antiseptic: a substance used to prevent or reduce the possibility of infection, sepsis
or putrefaction by germs. An antiseptic is a substance that kills or
prevents the growth and reproduction of various micro-organisms,
including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses on the external surfaces of
the body.
Antiviral: have the same action as antiseptics, but only act against viruses.
Aromatic: having a fragrant smell.
Astringent: a medicine which causes contraction of tissue, restraining discharges.

Externally applied astringents, which cause mild coagulation of skin
proteins, dry, harden, and protect the skin. Mildly astringent solutions are
used in the relief of such minor skin irritations as those resulting from
superficial cuts, allergies, insect bites, or athlete's foot.
Balsamic: a term usually applied to substances containing resins and benzoic acid.
BCE: this stands for Before the Common Era, which is an alternative notation
for AD (Anno Domini, or the Year of our Lord). It is considered to be
more respectful to non-Christians.
Bitter: bitter tasting substances, used to stimulate the appetite, or aid digestion.
Carbuncle: infection of the hair follicle.
Carminative: a medicine which prevents or relieves flatulence.
Cholagogue: stimulates the production of bile.
82
CE: this stands for Common Era, which is an alternative notation for BC
(Before Christ). It is considered to be more respectful to non-Christians.
Demulcent: soothes the alimentary canal.
Dermatic: acts on the skin.
Detergent: cleansing agent
Digestive: aids digestion.
Diuretic: a medicine that stimulates elimination of water from the body by

increasing urine output.
Eczema: an inflammation of the skin, usually causing itching and sometimes

accompanied by crusting, scaling or blisters. A type of eczema often made
worse by allergen exposure is termed ‘atopic dermatitis’.
Emollient: softens and soothes, reduces inflammation and irritation.
Epithelial cells: the cells that form the outer layer of the skin, and the membranes lining
the digestive tract, bladder and uterus, as well as the tubes and ducts that
run through the body's organs.
Expectorant: promotes the expulsion of secretions from the lungs and so is used for
loosening and breaking up a cough.
Febrifuge: reduces fever.
Granulation: the newly formed vascular tissue normally produced in the healing of
wounds of soft tissue. Some herbs can help this new tissue to grow
quickly, helping wounds to heal faster.
Haemorrhoid: distended, varicose vein either inside or at the opening of the rectum,
usually involving the discomforts of itchiness, pain and bleeding. Can be
treated externally with e.g. tannins and essential oils but better long-term
results are achieved through dietary changes which increase fluid intake
and fibres in the form of grains and fruit and vegetables.
Hayfever: is an allergic condition affecting the mucous membranes of the upper

respiratory tract and the eyes with a collection of symptoms. It is most
often characterized by nasal discharge, sneezing and itchy, watery eyes.
Hayfever is generally caused by an abnormal sensitivity to airborne pollen
or dust.
Hepatic: stimulates the function of the liver.
Infection: caused by bacteria, fungi or parasites invading the skin. Under normal
circumstances the skin is impenetrable but access can be gained, also by
small micro-organisms, wherever the skin is broken or there is damaged
tissue. Once invaded the tissue will react by becoming inflamed.
Immunostimulant: increases the ability of the immune system to fight infection and disease.
- 83 -
Impetigo: a bacterial skin infection characterized by microscopic, pus-filled blisters.
Inflammation: normal defensive reaction of body tissue or organ which has been
subjected to invasion or damage of some kind, e.g. bacterial infection,
physical blow, bruising or burning. The symptoms are a rise in
temperature, reddening, swelling and (painful) tenderness of the affected
area.
Irritant: causes irritation.
Laxative: mild bowel stimulant.
Narcotic: produces deep sleep or unconsciousness.
Nervine: restores normality to the nervous system.
Nutritive: supplies nutrients.
Parasiticide: destroys parasites.
Phlebitis: Inflammation on the wall of a vein, usually in the legs.
Psoriasis: a common disorder of the skin in which scaly, often itchy, pink patches
form on the arms, knees, back and scalp. It will often reoccur and its
cause is not fully understood, although it is generally considered to be an
auto-immune disease. An auto-immune disease is one where the body has
an immune response against one of its own tissues or types of cells.
Purgative: causes evacuations of the bowels (more forceful than a laxative).
Pyoderma: an infection of the skin, which is often the result of a bacterial invasion.
Resolvent: reduces swellings.
Resorptive: reabsorbs blood from bruises.
Sedative: calms nervous excitement.
Stimulant: temporarily stimulates nervous or muscular activity.
Stomachic: gastric stimulant.
Styptic: helps to clot blood, preventing bleeding.
Tonic: a substance that invigorates or strengthens the system (also called

adaptogen); often acting as stimulants or alternatives.
Vasoconstrictor: causes constriction of the blood vessels.
Vulnerary: promotes the healing of the wounds.
84
Metric-US Conversion tables...

These are for our American readers and customers. The millilitres and grams have sometimes
been rounded off to make it easier for you to work with the Recipes in this book. I have used
American spelling in these tables.
If you get stuck, can’t see the measurement you need, or would like to be more precise in your
calculations, a very useful metric conversion site with online calculators for temperature, weight
and volume is www.metric-conversions.org.
Note: I use grams to weigh raw materials because it’s much easier to work with and more
accurate than measuring cups and spoons. This is because the volume (the space something takes
up) of different raw materials will vary in relation to weight e.g. 2 ounces of Shea Butter in weight
will be smaller in size (take up less volume) than 2 ounces of Dried Herbs in weight (there’ll be a
lot more of the Herbs i.e. it would take up more space in a measuring cup). This is why I always
recommend that my students and customers buy a sensitive gram scale.
Volume (Dry) Volume (Liquid)
American Metric American American Metric

standard (millilitres standard standard (millilitres
) (cups and (fluid and litres)
1
/8 teaspoon 0.5ml quarts) ounces)
1
1
/4 teaspoon 1ml /8 teaspoon 0.5ml
1
1
/2 teaspoon 2ml /4 teaspoon 1ml
3 1
/4 teaspoon 4ml /2 teaspoon 2ml
1 teaspoon 5ml 3
/4 teaspoon 4ml
1 tablespoon 15ml 1 teaspoon 5ml
1
/4 cup 59ml 1
/2 tablespoon 1
/4 fl. oz 8ml
1
/3 cup 79ml 1 tablespoon ½ fl. oz 15ml
1
/2 cup 118ml 2 tablespoon 1 fl. oz 30ml
2
/3 cup 158ml 1
/8 cup 35ml
3
/4 cup 177ml 1
/4 cup 2 fl. oz 65ml
1 cup 225ml 1
/3 cup 85ml
2 cups or 1 pint 450ml 3
/8 cup 95ml
3 cups 675ml
1
/2 cup 4 fl. oz 125ml
4 cups or 1 quart 1 litre
5
1
/2 gallon 2 litres /8 cup 160ml
2
1 gallon 4 litres /3 cup 170ml
¾ cup 190ml
7
/8 220ml
1 cup 8 fl. oz 250ml
1
1 /2 cups 12 fl. oz 375ml
2 cups or 1 pint 16 fl. oz 500ml
4 cups or 1 quart 32 fl. oz 1 litre
1 gallon 128 fl. oz 4 litres
- 85 -
Weight/mass Temperature
Celsius (C) Fahrenheit (F)

American standard Metric
(ounces) (grams) 10 50
15 59
½ ounce 15g 20 68
25 77
1 ounce 30g 30 86
35 95
3 ounces 85g 40 104
45 113
3.75 ounces 100g 50 122
60 140
65 149
4 ounces 115g
70 158
75 167
8 ounces 225g
80 176
85 185
12 ounces 340g
90 194
95 203
16 ounces or 1lb 450g
100 212
Bibliography...
Books
Borseth, K. 2005. Aromantic Education Pack 1,
Aromantic, Forres. 135 Hair and Skin Care Recipes, Second Edition.
Borseth, K. 2005. Aromantic Education Pack 2, An A-Z of 160

Aromantic, Forres. Raw materials for Making your own nature-friendly Skin
Care products and Cosmetics, Second Edition.
BHMA. 1983. British Herbal Pharmacopoeia, BHMA, Bournemouth.
Johansson, L; Spångberg, A. 1982. Vital Kur.

Tofters, Ostervala.
Hoffmann, D. 1990 The New Holistic Herbal, Second Edition.

Element, Shaftesbury.
Wickes Felter, H; Uri Lloyd, J. 1898. King's American Dispensatory.
Websites
www.wars-grin.gov/duke/plants.html - Dr. Duke's Phytochemical & Ethnobotanical Databases.
www.botanical.com - A Modern Herbal, Mrs M. Grieve.
www.wikipedia.org - Wikipedia, the free online dictionary.
www.aromantic.co.uk - Aromantic’s website including other publications and recipes.

86
Biographies...
Kolbjørn Borseth
Originally from Norway, Kolbjørn Borseth is the founder of Aromantic and has
been working with and developing Natural Skin Care products since he started
his factory in Sweden 20 years ago. His mission is to reveal the secrets that the
cosmetic industry would rather hide from us. He now teaches others how to
make their own products using natural raw materials tailor-made for their
clients through providing recipes, educational guides and educational courses.
Susan Kemp
Born in South Africa in a country that still places a strong emphasis on folk
remedies today and into a family with more than its fair share of herbalists,
homeopaths, healers and humanitarians, Susan has seen and enjoyed the
benefits of nature’s medicine her whole life. Her professional training and
experience in areas as diverse as advertising and marketing and kinesiology,
massage therapy and natural health retail has resulted in most of her editing
and writing work being in the fields of natural health. Susan has worked on a
variety of Aromantic writing and editing projects with Kolbjorn Borseth since
1998. Herbalism is a favourite subject of hers.
Stewart Noble
Stewart Noble is a social entrepreneur and is now widely known for his work
developing LETS communities (Local Exchange Trading System) to promote the
use of interest free local currencies. Stewart has worked for Aromantic since
1998, contributing to the overall success of the company. He has also produced
most of the Aromantic printed materials, Recipe Brochures and Newsletters.
William Youssi
William was born in Paris and was visiting Scotland when we met him. He is a
carpenter by trade and loves to travel with his art, sculpting, illustrating,
painting and story telling. Of this project he said, “I enjoy to follow the line and
shape of these plants with my eyes and pen and try to capture the spirit of each
herb”.
Companies that sell Herbs,Tinctures and/or Essential Oils...

The Organic Herb Trading Co, Somerset Tel: 01823 401205 www.organicherbtrading.co.uk
Phoenix Apothecary, Findhorn Tel: 01309 691044
Aromantic Natural Skin Care Tel: 01309 696900 www.aromantic.co.uk
Neal’s Yard Remedies Tel: 0845 2623145 www.nealsyardremedies.com
Essentially Oils Tel: 01608 659544 www.essentiallyoils.com
To find a herbalist in your area, contact:

National Institute of Medical Herbalists Tel: 01392 426022 www.nimh.org.uk
- 87 -
88
Learn how to make your own Natural Skin,
Hair, Body and Health Care products that
have real healing benefits!
Featuring recipes for you to try at home, this Guide

contains the basic information and general methods
you need to make natural products for yourself, your
family and friends. If you’re a Complementary
Therapist you may even want to tailor-make them
for, and sell them to, your clients. Learn how to make
Natural Creams, Ointments, Macerated Herb Oils,
Skin Toners, Nail Baths, Hair Rinses & Tonics, Mouth
Washes, Foam Baths, Pet Care products and how to
use herbs in Shampoos, Gels, Body and Foot Baths,
Facial Steams, Compresses and Poultices...and more!
A comprehensive and illustrated reference guide on

37 common, easily available herbs will help you to
decide which herbs to use for different purposes.
Enjoy taking your health and beauty into your

own hands!
Published by Aromantic Ltd

17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray,
IV36 1EL, Scotland.
Tel: (01309) 696900
Fax: (01309) 696911
E-mail: info@aromantic.co.uk
Website: www.aromantic.co.uk
© Copyright 2006 - Aromantic Ltd
ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-0-9 RRP £12.95

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in Skin, Hair and Health Care products

Published by Aromantic Ltd

© Copyright 2006 - Aromantic

ISBN No: 978-0-9554323-0-9

Enjoy the adventure.

Thank you all for your hard work and dedication.

Kolbjorn Borseth, Founder of Aromantic

Herbal medicine traditions...

Terpenoids – such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes, triterpenes, tetraterpenes,

Glycosides – such as flavonoids, glucosinolates and cyanogens.

Phytosterols – such as beta-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, brassicasterol, delta-7-

Alkaloids – such as caffeine, theobromine, theophylline.

More about some of the constituents found in herbs...

These are fructooligosaccharides (FOS), immunomodulating polysaccharides, gums, mucilages,

Blueberries: used internally for diarrhoea (needs to be boiled first).

Fats and Waxes

Resins and Balsams

Another fat-soluble pigment is xanthophyll, a yellow or orange pigment in plants that is

The skin has two coats:

How to prepare your Herbs for use in

How to use Infusions and Decoctions in your Recipes...

How to use Tinctures in your Recipes

Herbal CO2 Extracts...

How to use Botanical CO2 Extracts in your products

, Some companies add up to 10% alcohol to preserve the Hydrolate.

How to use Hydrolates in your products

Macerated Herb Oils...

Make an Infusion or Decoction and drink when cool enough to do so.

Herbal Baths – Whole Body, Foot and Hand

Quantities of herbs to Use in Herbal Baths

If using Method 1 above to make an Infusion or a Decoction, then use:

Base Recipe for Foam Baths

200-250ml of Foam Bath Emulsifier

Method for making Foam Baths

Adding Essential Oils to Foam Bath Recipes

Quantities of herbs to use in your Foam Bath Recipes

Herbal Facial Steams

5 drops Essential Oil

General Method for making Toners

Compresses, Poultices and Plasters...

How to prepare a Cold Compress

, Remember: never use Hot Compresses on broken skin.

How to prepare a Hot Compress

Follow the ‘Method for Wet Compresses’ below.

How to Make a Compress

You will need:

Method for Dry Compresses

Method for Wet Compresses

Kolbjorn’s Tips for Compresses

Poultices & Plasters

Herbal Cream Recipe

Basic Method for making all Creams

1. Fat Stage: Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double

2. Water Stage: After carefully straining the Infusion or

3. Whisk the Water Stage ingredients well together,

4. When both Fat and Water Stages are over 75°C

6. Allow the mixture to cool, stirring all the time. You

7. Third Stage: Stir in the Third Stage ingredients when

8. Fourth Stage: Continue stirring until the mixture has

Base Ointment Recipe