COSMECEUTICALS

OF HERBAL AND
NATURAL ORIGIN

CHETNA KAUSHIK
17/MPH/2018
PHARMACOGNOSY AND
PHYTOCHEMISTRY
Acknowledgement

This is my pleasure to express deep sense of gratitude to Dr. Mahaveer Dhobi , Head Department
of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry , DPSRU for giving me an opportunity to work in this
venerated organization and provide all the essential amenities. I acknowledge my sincere
indebtedness to Ms. Poonam Arora for providing me a great opportunity to work and for his
expert guidance and motivation throughout the work completion.

I am lucky enough to thanks Mrs. Manju Vyas for her valuable guidance, strength of knowledge,
and respectability during work.

I am also thankful to all other members for their direct and indirect help and support.

Chetna Kaushik
Certificate

This is to certify that the seminar assignment, entitled “COSMECEUTICALS OF HERBAL

AND NATURAL ORIGIN” submitted to the department of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry
, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences , DPSRU is a record of work done by Chetna kaushik
under my co-supervision and guidance .

SIGNATURE
 NATURAL COSMECEUTICALS
“Cosmetic products of natural origin that exert both cosmetic and
therapeutic benefits”

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrid products

intended to improve the health and beauty. Cosmeceuticals have
medicinal benefits which affect the biological functioning
depending upon type of functional ingredients they contain and
used for beautification as well as for different ailments.

ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL COSMETICS

Safe to use Natural cosmetics are comparatively

Compatible with all skin types
Wide selection to choose from
Fits your budget
Not tested on animals
safer. They are hypo-allergenic and
tested and proven by dermatologists to
be safe to use anytime, anywhere.
Natural cosmetics are suitable for all skin
types.
Natural cosmetics may still be a new type
in the beauty industry but they already
offer a variety of beauty products for all
make up crazy people out there to
choose from.
Natural cosmetics are not that expensive.
In fact, some of these products are more
affordable than synthetic ones.
Some cosmetics are initially tested on
animals to ensure that they are safe and
effective to use for human. However,
natural cosmetics need not be tested on
animals. These natural formulations are
tested by experts in laboratories using
state of the art equipment with no animals
involved .
 SEGMENTATION

 RETAIL
SALES
 SKIN AND SUN  GENERAL
CARE BY CATEGORY BY DISTRIBUTION DEPARTMEN
 HAIR CARE T STORE
 DEODORANTS
CHANNEL  SUPERMAFK
 MAKEUP AND ET
COLOR 1 2  DRUG
COSEMTICS STORES
 FRAGRANCES  BRAND
 OTHERS OUTLETS
 ONLINE LES
3 4
 NORTH
 MEN AMERICA
 WOMEN BY GENDER BY GEOGRAPHY  EUROPE
 ASIA –
PACIFIC

MARKET SCENARIO

The global herbal beauty products market is projected to grow at

the rate of 6.5% during the forecast period 2018 to 2023 and is
expected to reach USD 120 billion by 2024.
 EVOLUTION OF COSMETICS INDUSTRY IN INDIA

HERBAL COSMETICS IN ANCIENT INDIA

The ancient science of cosmetology is believed to have originated

in Egypt and India, but the earliest records of cosmetic
substances and their application dates back to Circa 2500 and
1550 B.C, to the Indus valley civilization. Many of these practices
were subtly interwoven with the seasons (Sanskrit: Rutus) and the
normal rituals of life (Sanskrit: Dinacharyā). Significantly, the use
of cosmetics was directed not only towards developing an
outwardly pleasant and attractive personality, but towards
achieving merit (Sanskrit: Punya), Longevity with good health
(Sanskrit: Aayush and Aarogyam) and happiness
(Sanskrit: Anandam).
RAJA SERFOJI'S EXPERIMENTS IN COSMETICS
He established an Institute of Medical Research called the
“Dhanvantari Mahāl”, where experiments were conducted, and he
selected a few thousand efficacious recipes after actually testing
them. To facilitate the preparation of medicines, Raja Serfoji
established a grand herbarium in his palace where he had a
nursery which supplied plants for experiments, to the Dhanvantari
Mahāl.
Lip balm / lip salve
“Cracked lips, besides being painful, spoil the beauty of the face.
The following remedy was recommended in such cases – “If the
rind of Bel fruit (Aegle marmelos Corr.) is levigated (i.e. powdered
and mixed) in a woman's milk and the paste thus prepared is
applied to the cracked lips, within 10 days the cracking will stop
and the cracks will heal
Cure for dandruff
“Pound khas-khas seeds (Papaver somniferum Linn.) in milk and
apply to the scalp. It will cure dandruff”.
Skin lightning and exfoliating scrub
A fair skin has always been an attraction for Indians. The
following paste used to be applied to the body to make the skin a
shade or two lighter and give it a natural glow – “Pound together
The root of Kosta [Kooth or Kushtha, English name:
Costus.(Saussurea lappa Clarke.), Til seeds (Sessamum indicum
Linn.), the leaves of Sirisa (Albizzia lebbek Benth.), the leaves of
Chopda (Pongamia pinnata Pierr.), the wood of Devdar (Cedrus
deodara Roxb.) and the wood of Zadali Haled (Berberis aristata
DC.) Roast this mixture between dried cakes of Buffalo dung,
then take it out and grind it properly to a fine powder. If the paste
made from this compound is applied to the body for three
consecutive days, the above mentioned desired results will be
obtained”.
Depilatory
“Pound together dried fruits of Aavalakatti (Emblica officinalis
Gaertn.) and dried fruits of Pimpali (Piper longum Linn.). Soak this
mixture in the milky latex of Nivadunga (Cactus: Euphorbia nivulia
Ham.) If this compound is applied to the desired place, the hair
from that area will fall off”.
Cure for pimples
“The application of plaster composed of Kustumburu [Dhana,
Dhania, English name: Coriander (Coriandrum sativum Linn.),
Vacha or Vekhanda (Acorus calamus Linn.), Lodhra [Lodhar,
Lodhra. English name: The Lodh tree (Symplocos racemosa
Roxb.) and Kushtha or Kosta (Saussurea lappa Clarke.) pasted
together is also recommended for curing pimples”

MARINE COSMECEUTICALS
As more than 70% of the world’s surface is covered by oceans,
the wide diversity of marine organisms offers a rich source of
natural products. Marine environment contains a source of
functional materials, including polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA),
polysaccharides, essential minerals and vitamins, antioxidants,
enzymes, and bioactive peptides. Phycoerythrin pigment protein
in red algae can be used as a pigment in cosmetics. By
incorporating marine proteoglycans, as nutricosmetic skin capsule
is said to boost collagen and help strengthen cell cohesion and
improve skin density, creating firmer skin.
 MARINE CSMECEUTICALS

MARKETED
PRODUCTS

Resilience® by Abyssine® by
Estée Lauder Unipex
NON-HERBAL INGREDIENTS & ADDITIVES WITH
HERBAL COUNTERPARTS

CATEGORY NON HERBAL HERBAL

Oils, Fats Mineral Oil, Petrolatum Almond, Safflower,

Sunflower

Waxes Paraffin, Ozokerite, Cersin Bay berry and Carnauba

Wax

Humectants Propylene/Ethylene Glycol Glycerine, Sorbitol

Detergent SLS Coconut and Palm Oil

soap

Astringents Ethyl Alcohol , Acetone Witch Hazel extract

Sequestrants EDTA/Sodium EDTA Alginates

Colours/Dyes FD & C and D&C , Carbon Beetroot powder (red),

Black Carmine Powder (purplish
red),Curcumin (Yellow)

HAIR GROWTH FORMULATIONS

 SHAMPOO AND HAIR
CONDITIONERS

 HAIR OIL

 HAIR COLORANTS
 LIST OF PLANTS USED FOR HAIR CARE

Common Botanical name / Chemical Uses

name Family constituents

Aloe Aloe vera Aloe contains Enzymes in Aloe

Liliaceae salicylic acid vera dissolve dead skin
cells and excess sebum
which can clog hair follicles

Amla Phyllanthus Gallic acid, ellagic Fruit extract is used in oils

emblica acid, 1-O-galloyl- for promotion of hair growth
Euphorbiaceae beta-D-glucose,
3,6-di-O-galloyl-D-
glucose, chebulinic
acid, quercetin,
chebulagic acid,
corilagin, 3-
ethylgallic acid (3-
ethoxy-4,5-
dihydroxy-benzoic
acid), isostrictiniin,
1,6-di-O-galloyl-
beta-D-glucose

Bhringraj Eclipta alba Ecliptine Ayurvetic herb considered

Asteraceae ,wedelolactone, to be one of the most
wedelic acid, helpful natural means for
apigenin, luteolin, encouraging hair growth
b-amyrin
Henna Lawsonia inermis Lalioside, Leaves paste is used for
Lythraceae lawsoniaside, hair dyeing and
uteolin-7-Ο-β- d- nourishment
glucopyranoside,
awsonicin,
lawsonadeem,
vomifoliol

Shikakai Acacia concinna Lupeol, spinasterol, Pods extract is used as

Mimosaceae lactone, hair cleanser and for
hexacosanol, control of dandruff
spinasterone,
calyctomine,
racimase-A
 oleanolic acid,
lupenone, betulin,
betulinic acid,
betulonic acid

Brahmi Centella asiatica Brahmine, Mix brahmi extract with

Apiaceae herpestine, olive oil and massage into
saponins d- the scalp to improve
mannitol, circulation and promote
hersaponin, stronger hair growth
monnierin, betulic
acid, stigmastarol,
beta-sitosterol,
bacosides A and B
and
bacopasaponins

HERBS FOR DIFFERENT HAIR CONDITIONS

St. John’s wort,

nettle, sage, basil,
rosemary, onion juice

Comfrey root,
Raspberry, avocado, elder
nettle, vinegar, Growth DRY flowers, orange
Shine blossoms
quassia

Oily
Normal

Watercress,
strawberry leaf,
white willow bark, Dandelion, horsetail,
lemon grass clover
SHAMPOO
Material Quantity
Herbal extracts were added to
Reetha extract 2.5 g 10% gelatin solution and were mixed
by shaking for 20 min. Lemon juice
Amla extract 2.5 g
(1 mL) and Methyl paraben were also
Sheekakai 2.5 g added with stirring. Finally, the pH of
extract the solution was adjusted by adding
sufficient quantity of 1% citric
Sidr extract 2g acid solution. Few drops of
rose essential oil were also added to
Lemon juice 1 mL
impart aroma to the prepared
Methyl 1 mL of 0.05% solution shampoo and the final volume was
paraben made to 100 mL with gelatin solution.

Gelatin q.s
solution

Citric acid q.s

Essential oil 0.1 mL

MARKETED HERBAL SHAMPOOS

 HAIR CONDITIONER

JOJOBA CONDITIONER

Ingredients
1 cup rose floral water
1 tablespoon jojoba oil
10 drops vitamin E oil

To make:
1. In the top of a double boiler, gently warm the rose water.
2. Once rose water is warm, add jojoba oil.
3. Pour the mixture in a blender and add the vitamin E. Blend at high
speed for 2 minutes.

MARKETED HAIR CONDITIONERS

LAVENDER PATCHOULI HAIR HIMALAYA PROTEIN

CONDITIONER CONDITIONER - DAMAGE
REPAIR
 HAIR COLORANTS

FORMULATION

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 250 g

leaves

Nardostachys jatamansi 250 g

rhizomes

Saussarea lappa roots 250 g

Amla 250 g

Kattha 250 g
HAIR OIL
INGREDIENTS Quantity (%)

1. Amla 85
2. Nirgundi 2
3. Bringaraj 10
4. Jatamansi 3
5. Neem 2.5
6. Gammbhari 3
7. Aprajita 2
8. Shatavari 2.5
9. Shankpushpi 3.5
10. Brahmi 7
11. Kapur 1
12. Pudina 1
13. Til oil 63
14. Coconut oil 37
15. Rang 5
16. Flavoring agent 2
 MARKETED HAIR OILS

Aryanveda Almond & Olive Hair Oil NAVRATNA OIL -

AYURVEDIC, COOL
SKIN CARE

HERBAL FAIRNESS CREAM AND

VANISHING CREAM

HERBAL SUNSCREEN

HERBAL MOISTURIZER
 LIST OF PLANT USED FOR SKIN CARE

DRY SKIN ANTIAGING SKIN PROTECTION

TREATMENT SKIN
TREATMEN Aloe vera
CASTOR OIL COCOA BUTTER
Ricinus communis T Aloe barbadensis
Theobroma cacao
(Euphorbiaceae) (Sterculiceae)
Emollient for burns,
The oil acts as a sunburn and mild
barrier agent to abrasion, and for
Soothing after
protect against inflammatory skin
windburn or
harsh climate, and disorders
sunburn
is soothing to the
skin
 CREAM
Creams are semisolid dosage forms intended mainly for
external use and commonly consist of two immiscible phases;
an oily phase and an aqueous phase.
HERBAL FAIRNESS CREAM
Preparation of extracts
Air dried and coarsely powdered
(500 gm) of Pleurotus ostreatus,
Glycyrrhiza glabra root, and Camellia
sinensis were placed in Soxhlet
extractor separately, using petroleum
ether and then successively with
ethanol (70%). The extracts were then
concentrated to dryness under
reduced pressure and controlled
temperature, respectively and they
were preserved in a refrigerator.
Marketed products
Khadi Pure Herbal
Fairness Cream
Preparation of cream base
Oil in water (O/W) emulsion-based
cream (semisolid formulation)
The emulsifier (stearic acid) and other oil
soluble
components (Cetyl alcohol, almond oil)
were dissolved in the oil
phase (Part A) and heated to 75° C. The
preservatives and other
water soluble components (Methyl
paraben, Propyl paraben,
Triethanolamine, Propylene glycol) were
dissolved in the aqueous
phase (Part B) and heated to 75° C.
After heating, the aqueous
phase was added in portions to the oil
phase with continuous stirring
until cooling of emulsifier took place.
Lotus Herbals
Cocofair Coconut
Ginseng Fairness
Creme
Vanishing cream
Vanishing cream is o/w emulsion based preparations containing
aqueous phase and oil phase .

HERBAL MOISTURIZER

Oil Phase Water Phase

HERBAL SUNSCREEN
Herbal Sunscreen (also known as Herbal sunblock, Herbal
suntan lotion) is a lotion, spray or other topical product that
helps protect the skin from the sun's ultraviolet (UV)
radiation, and which reduces sunburn and other skin
damage, with the goal of lowering the risk of skin cancer
with the help of herbs.
SPF
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor and is the system used
worldwide to determine how much protection a sunscreen
provides, applied to the skin at a thickness of 2 mg/sq. cm
Measured by applying sunscreen to the skin of a volunteer and measuring
how long it takes before sunburn occurs when exposed to an artificial
sunlight source

HERBS COMMONLY USED IN HERBAL SUNSCREEN

 MARKETED PRODUCTS

HERBAL DEODORANTS AND ANTIPERSPIRANT

A deodorant is a substance applied to the body to prevent body odor
caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration in armpits, feet, and
other areas of the body. A subgroup of deodorants, antiperspirants, affect
odor as well as prevent sweating by affecting sweat glands.

MARKETED PRODUCTS

Citrus 24H Deodorant

Men 24h Roll-On
Deodorant
Regulatory status of cosmeceuticals

The drugs and cosmetic Act 1940 defines a cosmetic as; Cosmetic-“Any
article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced
into or applied to any part of the human body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any
article intended for use as a component of cosmetic”.
Some countries have the classes of products that fall between the two
categories of cosmetics and drugs:
Japan has ‘Quasi-drugs’; Thailand has ‘controlled cosmetics’ and Hong
Kong has ‘cosmetic-type drugs’.
 Regulated under the Drugs and cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945
and Labeling Declarations by Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). BIS
sets the standards for cosmetics for the products listed under
Schedule ‘S’ of the Drugs and cosmetics Rules 1945 .
 The permitted Synthetic Organic Colors and Natural Organic Colors
used in the Cosmetic shall not contain more than:
 • 2 ppm (parts per million) of Arsenic calculated as Arsenic Trioxide.
• 20 ppm of lead calculated as lead.
• 100 ppm of heavy metals other than lead calculated as the total of
the respective metals.
 Rule 134 of Drugs and Cosmetics Rules has laid down restrictions on
use of cosmetics containing Dyes, Colors and Pigments other than
those specified by the Bureau of Indian Standards (IS: 4707 Part 1 as
amended) and Schedule Q.
CONCLUSION
Around 70-80 % of Indian population uses herbal cosmetics.
Herbal cosmetics are prepared, using cosmetic ingredients to
form the base in which one and another herbal ingredients are
used to treat different ailments and for the beautification. The
cosmeceuticals are agents that lie between pure cosmetics and
pure drugs. To prove effectiveness and establish safety profile ,
research and development in the field of herbal cosmetics need to
be improved . if proven safe and effective , herbal cosmeceuticals
can defeat synthetic cosmetic industry on behalf of the
advantages they offer over synthetic cosmetics.
REFERENCES

 Joshi Laxmi S And Pawar Harshal ,Herbal Cosmetics

And Cosmeceuticals: An Overview , Natural Products
Chemistry & Research , February 16, 2015 .
 Kumar Bijauliya Rohit , ShashI Alok, Kumar Mayank,
Chanchal Kumar Dilip And Yadav Shrishti,A
Comprehensive Review On Herbal Cosmetics ,
International Journal Of Pharmaceutical Sciences And
Research
 Varma Sujith ,General Review On Herbal Cosmetics ,
Research gate
 Kim SK ,Marine Cosmeceuticals ,NCBI , Journal of
Cosmetic Dermatology
 Talal Aburjai and Feda M. Natsheh ,Plants Used In
Cosmetics , Phytotherapy Research , November 2003