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17 TEENAGE SK IN CARE: HERBAL RECIPES & SIMPLE ROUTINES

Posted By Heather Irvine / Comments 0 / Tags natural beauty, skin care, skin care recipes, teenage skin care
MAR
2021
When it comes to teenage skin care less is more, despite parental urges to !x, research, and monitor. This is especially true when working
with oily skin, which is usually part of the picture for teen skin troubles. The less is more approach has even more merit in hot or humid
weather, and when stress and hormonal changes are a factor for teens. Assuming that teen skin care often means minimizing breakouts,
redness, and even painful reactions, it’s common for teens (or any person who experiences visible blemishes) to be greeted daily with a
barrage of well-meaning advice. Best intentions from home remedies to high-end products can sting—emotionally, and physically.

Keep It Simple
Teens and other acne su"erers bene!t most from one or two simple supports which can be done consistently. Simplicity and consistency are
most important because the skin will respond to its environment, including anything that is applied topically, whether for a short or long
time. Lifting oil and debris from the skin daily, consistently, will be helpful to teen skin. Take away too much of the skin’s protection and
sebaceous glands will respond, perhaps producing even more oil. Adults who have zeroed in on a skin care routine may be accustomed to
collecting the set: cleanse, exfoliate, tone, moisturize, protect. Teen and sensitive skin might not respond well to all those products. Dialing in
just one or two of these steps to create balance may be just as helpful, or even more bene!cial than a complicated skincare routine…

Testosterone, T-Zone, and the Teen

Teens experience a period in life when the body is dialing up the production of hormones and the rest of the body responds. This is why we
often see mood swings, rapid changes in body composition, and skin issues in teens. Testosterone production increases in all teens during
puberty. Testosterone stimulates the production of the oil sebum, which protects the skin. Out of balance, this can lead to in#ammation of
the sebaceous glands, and acne. When oily skin, in#ammation of the sebaceous glands, a poor reaction of the skin to its natural oils, or other
dysregulations of this system occur it is best to approach with these goals in mind:

1. Reduce excess oil production and/or cleanse the skin of excess oil 1-3 x daily
2. Support healthy balanced function of the sebaceous glands
3. Reduce in#ammation

Additionally, yeasts and other microbes live on healthy skin, though can become out of balance on skin that is especially oily. Herbs that
match the three goals, plus have gentle antimicrobial activity. can be an especially supportive choice for teen skincare.

Herbs for Teenage Skincare

Herbs which are astringent, antimicrobial, and have an a$nity for balancing the sebaceous gland’s activity plus reduce in#ammation include
willow (Salix spp.), witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia), and lavender (Lavandula
spp.). There are certainly others. We will focus on these !ve, with simple recipes incorporating one or more of these herbs as main
ingredients.

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Willow (Salix spp.)

Willow (Salix spp.) delivers a combination of bene!ts when it comes to caring for teen skin troubles. In addition to astringency and anti-
in#ammatory action, willow bark and leaf contain salicylates. Salicylates, named for the willow genus Salix, are constituents with similarity to
salicylic acid. You may recognize salicylic acid as an active ingredient for topical applications. Salicylic acid is said to facilitate and speed the
process of shedding dead skin cells. This may also be relevant to cells that have lost healthy function and become rough, red, and irritated.
Willow preparations may soothe and renew blemished skin, acne, and boils, reducing these irregularities and making way for new skin cells
and a chance to heal, especially when gentler techniques don’t make a di"erence. This is not to say willow is always the answer.

Willow is best used for short periods of time when most needed. That is to say, a teen might use a willow preparation for several months but
not necessarily for years. This is simply because of its potential quality of encouraging the skin to shed layers, a process that can be helpful
while restoring healthy function, after scabbing or scarring, but possibly not ideal for continuous use long term.

Teens going through a rough patch with skin health may bene!t from a daily liniment or wash of willow bark. This can be used as a cleanser
and astringent for oily areas: face, back, and neck. I have also used a bit of willow tincture or powdered willow bark or leaf as a compress
over stubborn blemishes. This also works well for restoring rough areas left behind by skin breakouts. A concentrated preparation of willow
may also be used to encourage softening the skin and resolution of the most stubborn and menacing pimples.

Despite the generally great match that willow is for common teen skin troubles, there is a small percent, perhaps around 3% according to
clinical research, of people for whom willow is not an option. Occasionally allergic reactions have been noted, which tend to end after use is
discontinued. As with any topical application, a small patch test on a less sensitive, less visible area such as the inside of the arm, can be a
wise !rst step before using an herb, wash, or other application on sensitive facial skin.

Once you have patch tested willow (Salix spp.) leaf or bark in the form you plan to use it, you may like to know a few ways to combine it with
other herbs. Remember what we said. Keep it simple. Here is one easy recipe out of hundreds, simple to advanced, from our Botanical
Skincare Course and Botanical Skincare Recipe Book. The addition of zinc further supports healthy function of the sebaceous glands, and
clay can help lift excess oil, dead skin, and debris from problem areas.

Clay, Willow, and Zinc Mask

This could be used as a spot treatment for blemishes or occasionally as a mask for oily skin prone to redness. The powder will store
inde!nitely if you take care to only moisten the portion you will use at a given time. You may want to scale the recipe up to make a
bigger batch.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon French green clay (other types of clay can be used in place of French green clay)
1 teaspoon willow (Salix spp.) bark powder
¼ teaspoon zinc oxide powder

Directions

Combine the ingredients in a container, and stir thoroughly to ensure the zinc powder is mixed in well.
Cap until use.
To use, dispense the desired amount: pea-sized for a spot treatment, or about 1-2 teaspoons for a thin mask over the face or
oily potions of the face.
Moisten with just enough water to achieve a smooth consistency.
Apply to clean wet skin, and leave in place for at least 15 minutes.
Rinse o" with warm water. Gently pat skin lightly with a clean dry towel.

Remember you can also use willow bark or leaves in even simpler ways, such as as a fresh infusion that you then use the same day to wash
and tone your skin. The whole range of species can be used. Tinctures can be diluted to make a liniment that you can then spray or pat onto
your skin. You will !nd many more great ways to use willow bark in the Botanical Skincare Course and Botanical Skincare Recipe Book.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

If you !nd that willow is not your herb, or you would like additional ideas, yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is also very versatile. Like willow it is
widespread, though being a herbaceous plant it is much easier to wild harvest, and it can be grown in a season or two. The leaf, #ower, and
stem can all be used, though if you are drying and powdering yarrow the leaf and #ower will powder !ner and softer than the stem. These
parts are also more potent than the stem. For willow bark, the harvest is a bit more tedious than for yarrow.

Antiseptic, anti-in#ammatory, and astringent, yarrow has at least one additional special action; it has been called an alterative, meaning a
substance that helps purify the blood and detoxify the skin. How you may ask? Yarrow topical applications seem to encourage circulation
close to the surface of the skin—that is when the skin is not broken. When the skin is broken it is said to be a styptic. When circulation is
encouraged, impurities are carried away more e$ciently, and natural metabolic byproducts are also carried away faster. Additionally, my
personal experience is that yarrow can temporarily lessen itchiness. This is an attractive positive side e"ect when trying to avoid touching
troubled skin areas under the judgy watch of onlookers. You can use yarrow similarly to willow. Plus, it seems less likely to provoke allergies
or side e"ects. Try a wash, steam, poultice, bath, or press yarrow infusion or tincture onto the skin once daily. You can also make small
batches of infusion and apply with a mist bottle (handy for large or hard-to-reach areas like the back). Store this in the refrigerator for a
couple of days only, renewing the contents and washing the container between uses. No fun you say? You wanted a recipe? Here we go:

Toning, Cooling Astringent For Oily, Blemished Skin

Designed to refresh blemished bodily and/or facial skin, this can be sprayed or wiped over sweaty, oily, or a"ected areas. It is
especially nice in hot, humid weather!

Ingredients

1⁄4 cup (2 # oz) yarrow (Achillea millefolium) hydrosol

1⁄8 cup (1 # oz) yarrow (Achillea millefolium) aerial parts tincture
1⁄8 cup (1 # oz) witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) bark extract

Directions

Combine the ingredients in a 4-ounce glass bottle with a spray top.

Shake well.
Label, and store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.

Do you remember we were going to keep it simple? If you didn’t have all three of the ingredients above you could still make a preparation
with two out of three listed ingredients, as long as the result is at least 20% alcohol to preserve the solution, that is to keep it from harboring
bacteria. If you have another simple hydrosol or extract that you want to use that agrees with the skin, you could substitute. Rose (Rosa
spp.), lavender (Lavandula spp)., and sage (Salvia o$cinalis) are great candidates to switch out for the yarrow hydrosol or witch hazel
extract.

Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

Here we go! Witch hazel. Were you going to ask about this one? Here we are at yet another astringent. The familiar pharmacy product ‘witch
hazel’ that you may be used to or intrigued by can be used as a base for astringents and washes. Though it is largely alcohol, it also contains
distilled leaves, #owers, and twigs of witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana). You can also use the fresh leaves of this plant to enhance your
herbal preparations. For example, you might use the over-the-counter topical product as part of the water and alcohol base of a facial toner
or wash, and you might additionally use a tincture of witch hazel leaf that you made as an ingredient. Or, extract the leaves in the over-the-
counter solution to potentize it. Witch hazel extract in the recipe above refers to the common over-the-counter topical astringent solution.

But wait, can’t astringents be too drying? Alcohol can strip the skin of too much oil and generally dehydrate the skin’s surface. However, in
small amounts, it can be helpful to oily skin. Additionally, plant astringents, particularly witch hazel (and rose could be included) seem to help
balance the skin’s ability to regulate moisture and oil. While you may crinkle your nose at the thought of witch hazel if you have dry or only
medium oily skin, it can supply the right umph for very oily and teen skin, and is still a bit more sophisticated, balancing, and gentle than
pure alcohol toners.

There are so many ways witch hazel can be integrated into recipes. Here is one recipe featured in the Botanical Skincare Course and it was
inspired by the book Natural Beauty by Karen Gilbert.

Lavender and Witch Hazel Oily Skin Toner

An astringent skin toner to tone skin after washing.

Adapted from Natural Beauty by Karen Gilbert (Gilbert, 2013).

Ingredients

2 teaspoons witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) bark extract

5 tablespoons (2.5 # oz) lavender (Lavandula spp.) hydrosol
½ teaspoon yarrow (Achillea millefolium) aerial parts tincture
½ teaspoon vegetable glycerin

Directions

Combine all ingredients in a 4-ounce glass bottle with a spray top.

Shake well to combine.
Label, and store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.
To use, mist over clean skin.

The glycerine in this recipe can feel a bit sticky on the oiliest skin types. This will be especially noticeable in hot and humid climates, as
glycerine is a humectant—it draws moisture in. But we still love this recipe because it combines many of our teen skin care superstars, and
for oily skin it is much preferred to oil-based carriers.

Lavender (Lavandula spp.)

Lavender (Lavandula spp.), as we are often reminded, whether on plant walks or in blog posts, or by that whimsical lady handing out samples
in the supplement aisle, is named for the Latin word lavare “to wash.” Lavender is gentle yet potent when it comes to skin care. Said to be
cooling, lavender seems to reduce redness and yet promote circulation in the skin. It is even said to be useful with skin that is couperose,
red, with delicate blood vessels, and sometimes blistered. This is yet another herb that can be applied as a gentle wash and or toner. Or, a
fresh infusion can be pressed to the skin on a clean cloth for 5 to 10 minutes at a time. (Start with a little bit shorter period, like 1 minute, as
a test.) In my experience, the bene!ts far exceed that of water and pressure alone, and in many cases this simple application does more than
any commercial product.

Lavender is rich in aromatic oils, and simple preparations can be quite stimulating in a positive and safe way. Clinical studies have shown
lavender essential oil’s e"ectiveness against bacteria that commonly colonize the skin. These bacteria can become overgrown and lead to
visible problems. However, I’m suggesting the most gentle preparations such as hydrosols, steams, infusion or decoction used as a wash,
toner, or bath once cooled. Remember that our goal is to exert a positive in#uence on the skin that it can respond to and not
overcompensate to. Furthermore, ideally the routine will be gentle, sustainable, and will only adjust the current state of the skin slightly, to
bring #ora, circulation, and sebum production back into balance. Lavender has even been used for scar support, which is not to suggest
de!nite e"ectiveness, but because teen acne can be associated with minor scarring or pocks in the skin, lavender is looking like a good
match all around!

Lavender is featured in the earlier recipe and we will give you one more from the Botanical Skincare Recipe Book.