instructables

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer

by DyumanA

Over the past years, 3D printing has opened out amazing opportunities to every builder and maker out there to
become her/his own independent producer and designer. I have always been amazed by the idea that I can design
and print my own parts. I live in a small town and there is only one 3D printing service for miles--and that business
definitely takes advantage of their location because it is NOT cheap to get parts printed with them. So instead of
paying a fortune for all the parts I needed, I thought of designing and building my own 3D printer so that I could
print parts whenever I wanted! But I didn't want to just buy all the parts and assemble a 3D printer (which was too
expensive for me to have considered doing anyway). I wanted to design one that was much more affordable, and
to implement a few of my own structural and design changes to maintain a print resolution that was as good as a
commercial 3D printer's resolution. Conventional 3D printer prices start at about $250 and go up and up! I was
able to make one for about $87 (Prices may vary slightly based on where you live) with the same functionalities,
resolution and a large build volume. I bought all my parts in INR (Indian Roupees). It took me about one and a half
years to design and build this printer, and I'm happy to shorten the whole task for you. I've also made a few minor
changes from my original design to simplify and improve the building process for you.

I've made this Instructable in a very detailed manor including precise measurements for each part to help you
reconstruct this printer exactly. I hope you enjoy making this as much as I did! This project is for all the makers and
innovators who like being independent and getting their hands to build something new. Enjoy! :)

This is my first instructable, so please leave feedback and questions in the comment section below, and don't
forget to drop a vote if you liked this project! :)

How is this printer different from conventional 3D printers?

This printer doesn't use the conventional belt pulley system for the X and Y axes. Instead, it uses a
threaded rod and nut to move each axis. I found that by doing this I was able to cut down the cost
considerably while maintaining the same print resolution.
It uses one stepper motor for the Z axis instead of two. This again maintains the same amount of
stability and resolution while cutting down the cost.
The X axis is placed below with the Y axis instead of with the Z axis above. This small change was
made to reduce the load of the single Z axis stepper motor (conventional 3D printers have the X
axis which moves up and down with the Z axis). The print resolution is still perfect!
And of course, it turned out to be a good 100 - 150 $ cheaper than conventional printers!!

NOTE: I have referred to images as: fig.1, fig. 2 etc. They have all been added in order ("fig.1" = the first image in
the step, and so on). If you click on the image too, you'll see that the images themselves have a "fig." name.

The Instructables Fusion 360 design class was lots of fun and helped me to design this printer and make it easier
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 1
for the reader to visualize parts and fixtures.

Specs:

Build volume: 20cm x 15cm x 35 cm

Resolution: 0.2mm

Travel speed: 80-100 mm/s

Print Speed: 40-60 mm/s

You will need a work space with some powerful tools to make this.

Here's what you have to be prepared for:

Drilling
Cutting (metal, acrylic)
A bit of soldering
Some determination and hard work! :)

Here are the parts you'll need to buy online unless it's sold in your local appliance shops. I found everything I
needed on Ebay India. (Excluding parts that will be necessary for building)

TIP: Check you your local thrift shops for any of these parts. If you do find any, they'll be way cheaper and you'll be
helping to recycle things!

An Arduino Mega
Ramps 1.4 (The printer motherboard)
3 x NEMA 17 12v Stepper Motors
4 x A4988 Stepper Driver Module

A flilament Extruder

A 214 x 214 mm Heated Bed

Hot End Nozzle

A 100k Thermistor for the Heated Bed

3 x Endstops

12V 15A Power Supply

This turned out to be $74 for me. Prices vary based on where you live.

Materials to build:
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 2
Rectangular Metal Rods:(length x width x height)

2 rods sized: 58 cm x 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm

1 rod sized: 60 cm x 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm

1 rod sized 35 cm x 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm

Acrylic/Perspex Sheets 4 mm Thick:(length x width)

1 sheet sized: 35.5 cm x 35.5 cm

1 sheet sized: 31 cm x 22 cm

1 sheet sized: 35 cm x 15 cm

1 sheet sized: 22 cm x 7 cm

Metal U-Channel Width: 2.5 cm, Height: 1.3 cm (width and height may vary slightly in your local stores. Sizes
should be close to these). (length only):

2 U-Channels sized: 60 cm

4 U-Channels sized: 10 cm

4 U-Channels sized: 35 cm

2 U-Channels sized: 7 cm

Total length of the U-Channels: 314 cm

You can buy the total length at one go and then cut them into the sizes required. If you do this make sure to buy at
least 5 cm extra to compensate for loss while cutting.

M8 (8 mm diameter) Threaded rods: (length)

1 rod sized: 65 cm

2 rods sized: 36 cm

Mounted Ball Bearings:

6 ball bearings with 8 mm inner diameter

Couplers:

3 flexible couplers 5 mm x 8 mm

Coupling Nuts:
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 3
3 M8 * 13 * 24 coupling nuts

And finally some sturdy metal sheets (you'll need these to make a few custom L brackets and motor holsters).

Now you can start building!

1. 3D printed iphone case

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 4

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 5
Step 1: The Frame/Base

(NOTE: The dimensions in the image above are all in The metal U-channels will support the X and Y axes
millimeters) as they slide in their respective directions. I used U-
channels with a width of 2.5 cm and a height of 1.3
This is going to be the base for the 3D printer. I used cm. If you don't find the exact sizes in your stores,
three metallic rods (with the dimensions given above look for the size closest to the values. Take the two
in fig.1) and joint them together by attaching screws 60 cm long U-channels (see step 1), place them
to two L shaped metal pieces at each corner. Welding across the frame like in fig. 5 showing the separation
them together would work fine too, provided you have distance of each channel. Drill four holes going
the experience and the equipment. through the U-channel and the fame (one at each
end), and fix a screw in tightly.
Drill four holes in the L bracket and metal rods like in
the picture above (fig. 4). Fit screws into the two L After you've done this, drill one hole in the back of the
brackets and the rod and tighten a nut on the other frame for the Z axis fixture, going all the way through
side. I haven't specified the size of the holes, they the rod (fig. 7). It might be hard to do this later on. The
depend entirely upon the sizes of screws that you hole should be right in the middle of the back rod (30
have. The L brackets make a strong and sturdy cm from one corner).
frame.

1. Fig. 1

1
1

1. fig. 3 1. fig. 4

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 6

 1

1. fig. 5 1. fig.6

1. fig. 7

Step 2: Fixing the Mounted Ball Bearings

NOTE: All dimensions in the images are in Fix the bearing down tightly with some screws.
millimeters. Repeat this for the other side of the frame with
another mounted ball bearing.
Once you've got the mounted ball bearings (fig. 1),
measure the distance in between the two U-channels. Finally, slide the 65 cm threaded rod (see step 1) into
In my case, it turned out to be 24.5 cm. Once you both the bearings (fig. 4).
know the distance, mark the middle (which was 12.25
cm for me) and place the center of the bearing there. TIP: Make sure that the mounted ball bearings are
directly opposite each other. You can verify this when
TIP: You can stick a pen down the holes of the you are sliding the threaded rod through both
mounted ball bearings to mark where on the metal bearings. Make sure that the rod is perpendicular to
rod you have to drill. both sides of the frame.

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 7

 1

1. fig. 1 1. fig. 2

1. fig. 3

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 8

Step 3: Making the X Axis Stepper Motor Holster

NOTE: I used a different colored coupler. It has the Finally, holding it in that setup measure one last
same functionalities as the one you will be using. distance: "mes 3" (fig. 6 explains).

For this step you're going to need any strong, sturdy Fig. 7 shows a complete holster with all
metal sheet. measurements. Make sure you refer to it while
making yours.
You'll find four holes on the front of the stepper motor.
Measure the horizontal distance between any two of Cut out a piece like in fig. 8 from you metal sheet and
the holes (It was 31 mm in my case). We'll call this bend it like in fig. 7.
"mes. 1".
TIP: To bend, hold the piece in the vice with the part
Next, fix the coupler to the stepper motor and the that needs to be bent just above. Use a hammer to
threaded rod using the small screws provided with the bend it down to 90 degrees.
coupler (fig. 4). (Do this for all three steppers). Slide
the threaded rod through the ball bearings (fig. 5) until Drill two holes in the holster for the stepper motor and
the coupler is about 1 cm away from the metal rod. two at the bottom for the screws to attach it to the
Hold the stepper motor in that position and measure frame (fig 3).
the horizontal distance from the top of the metal rod
(frame) to one of the top holes on the face of the Don't attach it to the frame yet!
stepper. This one is "mes 2".

1
1

1. fig. 1 1. fig. 2

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 9

 1
1

1. fig. 3 1. fig. 4

1. fig. 5 1. fig. 6

1. fig. 7 1. fig. 8

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 10

 1

1. fig. 9

Step 4: Making the Z Axis Platform

NOTE: All measurements in the images are in (fig. 4).

millimeters.
From the metal sheet cut out a rectangular piece so
In this step you're going to need the 35 cm x 15 cm (4 that it fits onto the rectangular metal rod like in fig. 5.
mm thick) acrylic sheet, 2 more of the mounted ball Make sure that 2.5 cm is sticking out so that it can be
bearings, two 35 cm long U-channels, the 35 cm long joint to the frame. The width should be approximately
rectangular metal rod and a bit of metal sheet (see the same as the metal rod's width.
step 1 for component list).
Now go ahead and attach the rectangular metal rod to
Start by attaching the mounted ball bearings (fig. 1) in the acrylic with 6 nuts and bolts. Make sure that while
the center of the acrylic sheet, one at each end (about doing this you don't forget to attach the small metal
1 cm away from the border). piece you just made!

The rectangular metal rod is just as long as the Make 2 L-brackets from the sheet of metal, and drill
acrylic sheet. Flip the acrylic sheet over and place the holes through them and the rectangular metal rod.
rod in the middle of it (fig. 2) and drill three holes Use 2 nuts and bolts to fix them tightly to the rod (fig.
through both. Don't fix them together just yet! 6).

Flip the acrylic sheet back and drill holes for the U- Fix the entire structure onto the frame tightly with nuts
channels (measurements shown in fig. 3). Go ahead and bolts (fig. 7).
and fix the U-channels down with four nuts and bolts

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 1

1. fig. 1 1. fig.2

1 1

1. fig. 3 1. fig. 4

1
1

1. fig. 5 1. fig. 6

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 12

 1

1. fig. 7

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Step 5: Making the X Axis Carriage and Platform
NOTE: All dimensions in the images are in
millimeters.
Find the three M8 coupling nuts (see step 1) from
your shopping bags, and some sturdy metal sheet.
These nuts have 6 sides, and what you're going to
need to do is bend the metal sheet around 4 corners
of the nut as tightly as possible like in fig. 1. You're
going to have to make 3 of these, one for each axis.
Cut a piece of metal sheet approximately 3 cm (width
of the nut) x 7 cm. Keep 2 cm sticking out, hold the
metal sheet to one side of the nut, and attach it into a
vice. Use a hammer to fold down the metal sheet
onto the second side. Repeat this until the sheet is
folded over 5 sides of the nut. Press the two straight
loose ends of the sheet together and drill a small hole
like in fig. 1. The two ends should not come all the
way around but have a small gap in between. When
both the ends are held together, it should act like a
clamp and hold the nut tightly inside. Screw each one
onto a threaded rod (do this for all of them) (fig. 2).
Once you've done that you can fix the stepper motor
holster (made in step 3) to the frame. These coupling
nut structures will be on the threaded rods in between
both bearings (fig. 13). So you're going to have to
slide the threaded rod through one bearing, screw the
coupling nut structure on, and then slide the threaded
rod through the other bearing.
You might want to place a plastic stopper at each end
of the threaded rod (right after it comes through the
bearing) so that it is held in between the bearings. Or slide it into position and attach it to the frame with two
you could just fill the threads with something so that it nuts and bolts (you'll have to drill through the frame).
doesn't slip through. I used Araldite and it worked
fine. Just be careful not to stick the threaded rod to
the ball bearing.
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 14
TIP: You can put a few drops of super glue between
the wrapping and the nut so that they stick firmly to
the nut. But make sure you don't get any inside the
threads!
Find the 35.5 cm x 35.5 cm acrylic sheet, two 10 cm
long U-channels, and two 35 cm long U-channels
(see step one).
Recall the distance in between the U-channels on the
frame (fig. 3) we'll call this "mes 1". Fix the two 10 cm
long U-channels to the bottom of the acrylic (fig. 4),
so that the distance between the two ends (fig. 5) is
equal to mes 1. These new U-channels will slide
along the other U-channels and help go in a straight
line. Place the structure on the frame like in fig. 6, and
make sure that it fits tightly and does shake from side
to side. Look at fig. 14 to see how it should look from
underneath.
Fix the other two 35 cm long U-channels to the
structure like in fig. 7. But when you fix them with nuts
and bolts, there should be two small bolts separating
the U-channels from the acrylic like in fig. 8 and 9.
Now attach the mounted ball bearings to the platform
in the center (fig. 10).
Drill a hole right in the center of the acrylic piece. Fix
the whole platform to the coupling nut (fig. 11) which
is on the threaded rod. You're getting close! fig. 12.
Fit the holster (from step 3) to the stepper motor, then
 1
1

1. fig. 1 1. fig. 2

1
1

1. fig. 3 1. fig. 4

1. fig. 5 1. fig. 6

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 15

 1
1

1. fig. 7 1. fig. 8

1. fig. 9 1. fig. 10

1. fig. 11 1. fig. 12

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 2

1. fig. 13 1. View from beneath. The guides should slide against the U-
channels like this
2. fig. 14

Step 6: The Y Axis Platform

Keep the 31 cm x 22 cm acrylic sheet, two 10 cm
long U-channels and the heated bed ready.
Fix the U-channels to the acrylic sheet as shown in
fig. 1. (Use the method in the previous step to
measure and attach the bottom U-channels).
Drill a hole in the center of the acrylic sheet and
attach the coupling nut structure to the bottom like
you did in step 5 for the X axis.
Place the heated bed on the acrylic and mark where
you will need to drill holes (fig. 2). Take out your drill
and drill in the marked areas.
Now keep this structure aside, we'll deal with it in
step 11.

1
1

1. fig. 1 1. fig. 2

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Step 7: Y Axis Stepper Motor Holster

This step involves the same measurements as in step threads so that the rod is fixed in between the ball
3 (X axis stepper holster). Please refer to that if you bearings (see step 5).
have any doubts. Except this time, the screws go into
the bottom holes of the stepper motor. REMINDER: Make sure that when you're fixing the
motor to the holster, the coupling nut structure in
Drill holes in the platform you just made in step 5 to screwed onto the threaded rod. Otherwise you'll have
attach the holster to the acrylic. The threaded rod to undo everything to screw it on later.
should pass through both empty ball bearings. Make
sure you don't forget to use a plastic stopper or fill the

1
1

1. fig. 1 1. fig. 2

Step 8: The Z Axis Carriage

Take the last acrylic sheet out (22 cm x 7 cm, see carriage. (See steps 5 and 6 for measurement
step one), and the last two 7 cm long U-channels. details.)

These U-channels will be the rails for the Z axis, Drill a hole in the middle of the sheet, and connect the
except this time, instead of being in between the coupling nut device like in step 5 (except this time,
longer U-channels, fix the rails outside like in fig. 1 the coupling nut isn't on the threaded rod yet. (fig. 3)
and 2. This, I found, gave better stability to the

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 18

 1

1. fig. 1 1. fig. 2

1. fig. 3

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 19

Step 9: The Extruder Holster
NOTE: All dimensions in the images are in
millimeters.
In this step you're going to need some sturdy metal
sheet, the filament extruder and the hot end nozzle
(see step 1).
Fig. 1 shows the how you're going to have to cut and
bend the metal. Fig. 3 shows the measurements for
the holster.
Cut a slit as shown in fig. 2 for the extruder nozzle.
The slit should be slightly larger than the diameter of
the hot end's threaded rod (see fig. 4 for what that is).
1. fig. 1
1. fig. 3
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 20
The slit length should be about 4.5 cm
Attach the filament extruder and the hot end nozzle to
the holster as shown in fig. 5. Notice that there is an
extra nut (on top in fig. 4) to tighten the whole
extruder to the holster. Once the extruder is
assembled and in place the extra nut has to be
tightened to the holster.
Take the Z axis carriage you made in the previous
step and connect the holster to it as shown in fig.6
with a few nuts and bolts.
1. fig. 2
1. The extra nut for tightening to the
holster.
2. the hot end's threaded rod
3. fig. 4

2
1. The extra nut
2. fig. 5
Step 10: The Z Axis Stepper Motor Holster
You're going to need the metal sheet again! Go
ahead and bend it as shown in fig.1. This is almost
the same as the holster you made for the Y axis
stepper motor, so you shouldn't have any trouble
measuring or making it. If you do, refer back to steps
3 and 7.
Once you've made the holster, slide the threaded rod
connected to the motor (keeping in mind that the
coupling nut structure has to be in between the
bearings, see step 5) through one bearing, screw on
the coupling nut structure (which should be attached
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 21
1
1. fig. 6
to the extruder holster and Z axis carriage by now) to
the threaded rod, then slide the rod through the other
bearing and finally attach the motor to its holster (fig.
3 and 4). Make sure the U-channel rails are not on
top of each other but fit in side by side.
Congratulations! You've finished building the 3D
printer. You can put away those saws that drill! :)
Let's wire it all up now. You're just a few steps away
from printing your first object!
 2

1. Use two screws to attach it to the metal rod. 1. fig. 2

2. fig. 1

1
1

1. fig. 3 1. fig. 4

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 22

Step 11: Attaching the Y Axis Platform and the Heated Bed
In this step you're going to connect the 100k
thermistor to the heated bed using any heat resistant
tape. Kapton tape worked perfectly for me.
You'll observe that the heated bed has two kinds of
surfaces; use the slightly rougher one as the bottom
and the smooth one as the top. Flip the heated bed
so the bottom is facing you. In the middle of the
heated bed there's small hole. Stick the thermistor
inside just enough so that is doesn't protrude out of
the other side. Use some Kapton tape to hold it down
in that position.
Solder two small wires to each end of the thermistor
(fig. 2). Thermistors don't have a specific polarity, so
don't worry about the wires getting mixed up.
Now take 4 bolts (length doesn't matter) that fit
through the holes on the heated bed, and fix them on
each corner like in fig. 3. The bottom nut will be used
to adjust the bed height.
Take the Y axis platform that you set aside in step 6,
1
1. fig. 1
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 23
and fix it to the coupling nut structure (which should
be on the last empty threaded rod) fig. 4. Again, make
sure that the guide U-channels are side by side with
the long ones, and not on top of each other.
Place the heated bed on top of the Y axis platform, so
that all the screw fit into the holes you drilled for them
in step 6 (fig. 5 and 6).
Observe fig. 7. The table drawn on the heated bed tell
you how to wire it up based on the power supply you
are using. We are using a 12 volt power supply, so
like in fig. 8, solder one positive wire to terminal 1 on
the heated bed and one negative wire on terminals 2
and 3. Roll the ends of the negative wires together.
Place a thin piece of glass slightly smaller than the
heated bed and clip it down with a few binder clips.
Finally, use a spirit level and adjust the nuts on the
heated bed until it is parallel to the ground.
1
1. fig. 2
 1

1. fig. 3 1. fig. 4

1
1

1. fig. 5 1. fig. 6

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 24

 1
1. fig. 7
Step 12: Attaching the Endstops
In this step you're going to need the three endstops
you bought.
Endstops determine position zero for each axis, and
prevent the axis from going further than they actually
can.
Attach each endstop right next to the stepper motor of
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 25
1
1. fig. 8
each axis on one of the U-channels supporting the
axis' platform (doesn't matter which). I applied a few
drops of super glue on the back of the endstop, and
then placed it on the U-channel. Make sure the metal
switch is facing the acrylic platform which will be
moving. So when the acrylic sheet comes too close,
the switch goes off.
 1

1. fig. 1

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 26

Step 13: Wiring the Power Supply
You're going to need a meter or two of the ground,
live neutral wire shown in fig. 1 and a plug top shown
in fig. 2.
Start by stripping the three cable wire. Then open up
the plug top and wire it up as shown in fig. 3 and 4.
Fig. 5 shows the front of the plug. If you notice, the
letters L, N and E are inscribed on it. They stand for
Live, Neutral and Earth. This tells you which wire is
connected to what. You're going to have to remember
this so that you can connect it correctly to your power
supply. For example, my yellow wire is connected to
Earth, my red to Live, and my blue to Neutral. Make
sure that you don't screw down the insulation of the
wire.
1
1. fig. 1
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 27
Go ahead and strip the other side of the three cable
wire, and attach it to the power supply according to
how to fixed the wires to the plug. In my case, the
yellow will be connected to Earth, my red to Live, and
my blue to Neutral. DO NOT put the plug in a socket
yet.
Now it depends where you live, but in some areas,
your sockets might not have three pins, but only two
(Live and Neutral). In that case, you can just use two
cables, and leave the Earth terminal on your power
supply empty.
Observe the sticker on the power supply (fig. 7) and
make sure your switch is set for the correct voltage
(again this depends on where you live).
1
1. fig. 2
 1
1

1. fig. 3 1. fig. 4

1 1

1. fig. 5 1. fig. 6

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 28

 1

1. fig. 7

Step 14: Wiring Up the RAMPS 1.4

Take out the RAMPS 1.4 shield and the Arduino
Mega from your shopping bags.
Attach the RAMPS 1.4 to the Arduino Mega, so that it
sits perfectly on top.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you Double Check ALL
the connections once you're done. Make sure none of
the bare adjacent wires are in contact with each
other. You do not want to risk blowing something up
or causing a fire.

Follow this guide to wire up the RAMPS 1.4 correctly.

DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 29

Step 15: The Software to Make It Work
Download the Marlin firmware for the Arduino Mega h
ere. Download the Zip file (fig.1) and extract all the
files. Inside the "Marlin" folder you should find a
"Marlin" INO file (or arduino file. Fig. 2). Open that
into the Arduino IDE. Go to the configuration.h tab
and scroll down until you see the same as in fig. 3.
Change the digits so that it now matches fig. 4. Save
the whole file, and upload it to your Arduino!
Download the Arduino IDE here if you don't have it
already.
Download Repetier Host (3d printing and slicing
software) here.
Launch Repetier Host, enter some basic information
about your printer, like the max build dimensions,
1. fig. 1
DIY High Resolution, Low Cost 3D Printer: Page 30
upload a test 3D object (preferably a cube), slice the
object and hit the print button! Don't forget to plug
your power supply cord into the socket now. :)
The Arduino should be connected to the laptop/PC at
all times. You can buy an SD card slot for RAMPS
1.4. This SD card holder (which will later on contain
code to print objects) can be inserted into the RAMPS
1.4 board so that the printer can run without a laptop
or PC being connected to it.
Before you slice the object (with either Cura Engine
or Slic3r) you will need to edit their configurations to
set the printer to the correct temperatures (based on
the plastic you are using and the object that you want
to print).
Step 16: Tips and Tricks!

Congratulations! You now have your very own 3D
printer!
Now to get it printing you're going to need some
plastic filament (easily available on ebay or amazon).
Hot end temperature: 190 - 200 degrees
ABS:
Heated bed temperature: 90 - 100 degrees

There are two commonly used types of plastic: ABS
and PLA. Follow this guide to see which plastic suits
your needs.
Here are the temperatures I set my printer to for
different plastic (degrees Celsius)
Hot end temperature: 230 - 240 degrees
I printed PLA directly on the glass of the heated bed,
but with ABS I had to stick blue tape over the bed so
that the first layer stuck to the bed. Have a look at this
article and see what works best for you. :)

PLA: I hope you enjoyed this! If you have any questions

feel free to drop them in the comment section below,
Heated bed temperature: 70 degrees and don't forget to drop a vote! Thanks a lot. :)

I commend you on your information and work. I have to say that you didn't fully give out a cost for
this project. Yes, the electronics will cost about $100 but the structure (frame), hardware, couplers,
mounting brackets, rods, etc should be included. Once all that is added it will cost nearly $300 (if a
person has to buy it all). I like your concept and thank you for your submission!
Thank you so much :). I took my costs based on Indian prices, things are slightly cheaper. But the
total cost was exactly $87.
He only has the connector price of $1.79. You can't even buy a 12v 500ma wall wart for $2.

Sure you can. Hit up your local thrift store. They'll have tons of 12v adapters for a couple of bucks.
Very nice Instructable! I would like to see more pictures of the finished printer and/or a video.
Dont pay any attention to the people saying negative things, what you did is great and I applaud
you for posting it! Keep on building!
My motto:
I've done so much with so little for so long. Pretty soon I should be able to do anything with
nothing.
Thank you so much! :) I like the motto!

Excellent work! I made my printer from an instructable too. It is perhaps not as fast as a
commercial printer, it may not look as good, and it may have cost more. However the quality of the
product is good enough for what I need and, most importantly, I can print things that make my wife
and children happy too.
The printer also helps both the family and I, learn about 3D drawing and printing.
I made it, so I know every mm of it. I can add to it and improve it when I like.
For me, that is why this istructable is great and also why anyone who wants to get involved in 3D
should make their own printer . It is the best way to learn.
Thanks for sharing with the community!
I completely agree :) I use this printer to print parts for other projects, and it’s been a lot of fun.
Thank you!
I have voted for this, I think it is pretty good for a first instructable! One thing I would suggest
though, is put more than just fig 1 fig 2 etc in the picture comments. It's much easier for your
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 readers if you put a little explanation in there of what each picture is showing.
I'm quite inspired to actually try building this. There isn't anything I can't afford and there isn't
anything I'm unable to make! So it's right up my street!
Thank you so much for your feedback:) I will see what I can do to fix that. You won’t regret making
it! It has been my best investment till today!
Lots of good close up pictures, but missing pictures of the overall finished project.
I only saw 1 picture of the finished printer and it is a side view which doesn't convey much about
the overall product. Please consider adding a few photos of completed printer and maybe a YT
video of it running
What about the printing time? You said the resolution is the same as the other printers, but do the
rods get you slower?
The print speed is approximately the same as other printers! The only thing that’s slower is the
acceleration and jerk. Which do affect the print time, but very slightly.
Is there any reason this couldn't be modified/built for a larger build volume?
Yes it can be. The X and Y maximum coordinates are restricted by the size of the heated bed. If
you can find a larger heated bed and increase the frame size, you would get a much bigger build
volume
For any seriously considering this project in order to own a 3D printer to print actual
parts/components, I highly advise against it. I speak from experience. This is a GREAT project if
you are into the hobby of 3D printers and what to learn about 3D printers. Not great if you want a
printer to actually print out toys and custom parts.

Most 3D printer companies have died off because of the challenges and only a few good ones are
left such as Prusa which is highly rated and affordable. I have owned a home built printer and a
Prusa i3 MK2. The Prusa allows me to click and print and allows me to focus on the design and
quality of the print rather than just getting the printer to print a part off.

I still encounter hiccups on the MK2, but nothing compared to a home built printer.

Good project overall. I just wanted this note out there for future hobbiest to learn from my mistakes.

I agree that the prusa is a better printer. But I have used this to print components for subsequent
projects such as an animatronic hand I build. The finger joints came out excellently and slid into
place. Maybe the print quality will start to deteriorate with more complex objects, but so far the
most I’ve had to do to a component was sand it a little. What I mean to say is that I don’t think it’s
just printing a part off, it has been maintaining detail and design as well. Not as well as a Prusa
might have, but ive found it to be a great alternative.
The comparison you have made is completely valid, but not to the extent where the quality and
detail of the print is being compensated as much as you say.
Thanks:)
Yeah I would have to say the same thing. Neat project and great for a diy/if you want to really
understand how 3D printers work, but a kit bought from a reputable manufacturer and retailer will
be more reliable and teach you almost the same thing. If you're in it for the challenge go for it! :)
Also, I'm not entirely sure I would trust a $2 power supply unit....just sets off alarm bells in my
head.
Wow!! Nice instructions. Seem like they’re pretty easy to follow! I’m going to try to make this as a
project over school break. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks:) you won’t regret making it!

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Excellent first Instructable. This would do really well in the First Time Authors contest.

Thank you so much! :)

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