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After days of staying in Singapore, Rizal The night of June 12, the steamer docked at
boarded the ship Djemnah, which was a the French harbor of Marseilles. Rizal bid
French steamer and left Singapore for farewell to his fellow passengers. He visited
Europe on May 11. It was a larger and the famous Chateau d’lf where Dantes, was
cleaner vessel which carried more imprisoned. He stayed two and a half days
passengers. French was spoken on board in Marseilles.
and Rizal attempted to converse with his
fellow passengers in French, but he found Barcelona
out that his book French could not be
understood, so he spoke a mixed Spanish- On the afternoon of May 15, Rizal left
Latin and with the help sketching on paper. Marseilles to proceed to Spain via train. He
By conversing daily with the French crossed the Pyrenees and stopped for a day
passengers, he then was able to improve his at the frontier town of Port Bou.
knowledge of the French language.
After the passport inspection at Port Bou, Rizal then had a love affair with Consuelo
Rizal continued his trip by rail, finally Ortiga y Perez, the daughter of Don Pablo.
reaching Barcelona on June 16, 1882. His Rizal, being a lonely man in a foreign
first impression of Barcelona was country and far from his natal land, was
unfavorable. He thought of it as an ugly, attracted by Consuelo’s beauty and vivacity.
dirty and its residents are inhospitable. Their love did not flourish because he was
Later, he changed his impression and liked still engaged to Leonor Rivera and a friend
the city. He found it as a great city, with an of Rizal is also in-love with Consuelo.
atmosphere of freedom and liberalism. He
also found its people were open-hearted, First Visit to Paris
hospitable, and courageous. He enjoyed
promenading along Las Ramblas which was On June 1883, Rizal left Madrid to visit
the famous street in Barcelona. Paris. He stayed at the Hotel de Paris but
then moved to a cheaper hotel. Like all
Filipinos in Barcelona were some of his tourists, Rizal was charmingly titillated by
classmates in Ateneo, welcomed him. They the attractive scenery of Paris such as the
gave him a party at café Plaza de Cataluña. beautiful boulevards, the Opera House, the
After toasts, Rizal in turn gave them the Place de la Concorde, the Arch of Triumph,
latest news and gossips in the Philippines. the Bois de Boulogne, the Madelaine
Church, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the
In Barcelona, Rizal wrote a nationalistic Column of Vendome, the Invalides, and the
essay entitled “Amor Patrio” which was his Versailes. Rizal closely observed the French
first written article on Spain’s soil. He then way of life and spending many hours at the
sent his article to Basilio Teodoro Moran, museums.
publisher of Diariong Tagalog. Basilio was
deeply impressed by the article In Spain, he became close with prominent
congratulated Rizal and asked Rizal to Spanish liberal and republican Spaniards,
publish more articles. who were mostly Masons. Rizal was
impressed by the way the Spanish Masons
While living in Barcelona, Rizal received bad openly and freely criticized the government
news about the cholera outbreak ravaging policies and lambasted the friars. In March
Manila and the provinces. Many people died 1883, he joined the Masonic lodge called
and more were dying daily. Sad news was Acacia in Madrid. His reason for joining was
that his beloved Leonor Rivera was getting to secure Freemasonry’s aid in his fight
thinner because of the absence of her loved against the friars in the Philippines. Later he
one. Also, Paciano advised Rizal to continue was transferred to Lodge Solidaridad where
his medical course in Madrid. Heeding his he became a Master Mason on November
advice, Rizal left Barcelona in the fall of 15, 1890. Still later, he was awarded the
1882 and proceeded to Madrid. diploma as Master Mason by Le Grand
Orient de France in Paris.
Madrid
After departure for Spain, things turned from
On November 3, 1882, Rizal enrolled in the bad to worse in Calamba. Harvests failed on
Universidad Central de Madrid. He took up account of drought and locusts. Also the
took courses—Medicine and Philosophy and Dominican-owned hacienda increased the
Letters. Aside from the two major courses, rentals of the lands cultivated by the Rizal
he also studied painting and sculpture in the family. Due to these crises, allowances of
Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando; he Rizal were many times late or sometimes
took lessons in French, German, and never arrived, causing too much suffering to
English under private instructors; and him.
assiduously practiced fencing and shooting
in the Hall of Arms of Sanz y Carbonell. And on November 20, 21 and 22, 1884,
Rizal was involved in student
Rizal lived a simple life in Madrid and knew demonstrations. They were fighting for Dr.
that he came to Spain to study and prepare Miguel Morayta who proclaimed that “the
himself for the service of his fatherland. He freedom of science and the teacher”. Such
budgets his money and time and never liberal view was condemned by the Catholic
wasted a peseta for gambling, wine and bishops of Spain.
women. On Saturday evening, he visits the
home of Don Pablo Ortiga y Rey who lived On June 21, 1884 Rizal completed his
with his son and daughter. Don Pablo has medical course in Spain. He was conferred
been city mayor of Manila. the degree of Licentiate in Medicine by the
Universidad Central de Madrid. In the next
academic year, he studied and passed al which was near University of Heidelberg. He
subjects leading to the degree of Doctor of worked at the University Eye Hospital under
Medicine. Rizal also finished his studies in the direction of Dr. Otto Becker and
Philosophy and Letters with excellent attended the lectures of Doctor Becker and
ratings. Prof. Wilhelm Kuehne at the university.
The friends of Rizal hailed the novel, For the first time, Rizal and Blumentritt met
appreciated its content and deeply touched each other. They greeted each other in
and awakened by its fine truth. Of all the fluent German. Upon seeing the talented
congratulatory letters received by Rizal Rizal, the old professor immediately took
about Noli, that from Blumentritt was him into heart, loving him as a son.
significant. “First of all” wrote Blumentritt,
“accept my cordial congratulations for your Rizal had beautiful memories of his visit to
beautiful novel about customs which Leitmeritz. He enjoyed the warm hospitality
interests me extraordinarily. Your work, as and enjoyed the cooking of the professor’s
we Germans say, has been written with the wife Rosa. Blumentritt’s children were
blood of the heart, and so the heart also Dolores, Conrad, and Fritz. Blumentritt
speaks. I continue reading it with much showed the scenic sights and historical
interest…” spots of Leitmeritz.
At dawn of May 11, 1887, Rizal and Viola On another afternoon, Rizal and Viola were
left Berlin by train. Spring was in the air and invited to a meeting o the Tourists’ Club of
Europe is blooming with flowers. Their Leitmeritz, of Blumentritt was secretary. The
destination was Dresden, “One of the best members of the society were amazed by the
cities in Germany”. fluency of Rizal in German.
After their stay at the home of the From Ulm, they went to Stuttgart, Baden and
Willkomms, Rizal and Viola left Prague and then Rheinfall. At Rheinfall, they saw the
went to Brunn. waterfall which was the most beautiful
waterfall of Europe.
Queen of the Danube
Switzerland
On May 20, Rizal and Viola arrived in the
beautiful Vienna. Famous in songs and From Rheinfall, they crossed the frontier to
story, this city very much fascinated Rizal Schaffhausen, Switzerland. They stayed in
because of its beautiful buildings, religions this city from June 2 to 3, 1887. They then
images and charm. Rizal and Viola continued their tour to Basel, Bern, and
presented a letter of recommendation, from Lausanne.
Blumentritt, to Norfenfals, one of the
greatest novelists in Europe during that time. After sightseeing in Lausanne, Rizal and
The great novelist was impressed by Rizal’s Viola left on a little boat, crossing the foggy
genius. Later he spoke highly of Rizal. Leman Lake to Geneva.
Also in Vienna, Rizal received his lost Geneva Rizal and Viola visited Geneva. This
diamond stickpin. It was found by a main in Swiss city is one of the most beautiful cities
Hotel Krebs and was given to Blumentritt in Europe which was visited by world tourist
who, in turn, forwarded it to Rizal. every year. The people of Geneva were
linguists, speaking French, German, and
The two stayed at Hotel Metropole. They Italian. Rizal conversed with them in these
visited the city’s interesting places, such as three languages.
churches, museums, art galleries, theaters
and parks. Rizal and Viola also went boating on the
lake. Rizal showed his rowing prowess
Lintz which he acquired during his boyhood days
in Calamba.
On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a
river boat to see the beautiful sights of the On June 19, 1887, it was Rizal’s 26th
Danube Rivera. As they both travel with birthday and treated Viola to a blow-out.
boat, Rizal observed the different sights like Rizal and Viola spent fifteen days in
the barges loaded with products, the flowers Geneva. On June 23, they parted ways.
and plants growing along the river banks, Viola decided to return to Barcelona while
the boats with families living on them, and Rizal continued his tour to Italy.
the quaint villages on the riversides. They
also noticed that the passengers were using Madrid Exposition
paper napkins during meals.
During his tour in Europe, Rizal received sad
To Rheinfall, To Salzburg, To Munich & news from his friends in Madrid of the
Nuremberg deplorable conditions of primitive Igorots
who were exhibited in this expositions, some
The river voyage ended in Lintz. They of whom died and whose clothing are
traveled overland to Salzburg and from there inappropriate for the climate of Madrid, and
to Munich where they sojourned for a short crude weapons were objects of mockery and
time to savor the famous Munich beer, laughter by the Spanish people and press.
reputed to be the best in Germany. Rizal being a champion of human dignity
was outrageous.
From Munich they went to Nuremberg, an
old city of Germany. Among the sights were Italy
Home in Calamba
Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan,
Venice and Florence. On June 27, 1887, he On August 8, he returned to Calamba. His
reached Rome. He was thrilled by the sights family welcomed him affectionately. The
and memories of the Eternal City—Rome. rejoicing returns over when his family
became worried of his safety. Paciano did
On June 29th, Rizal visited for the first time not leave him during the first days because
the Vatican, the “City of the Popes” and the he wants to protect him from any enemy
capital Christendom. He was impressed by assault. Even his own father would not let
the magnificent edifices, particularly of St. him go out alone.
Peter’s Church which was also his feast day
during that time. In Calamba he established a medical clinic
and his first patient was his mother, who
Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, was that time almost blind. The news of a
Rizal returned to his hotel, very tired. “I am great doctor from Germany spread far and
tired as a dog,” he wrote to Blumentritt, “but I wide. Patients from Manila and the
will sleep as a god”. provinces flocked to Calamba to have a
consultation to Rizal. His fees were
After a week of staying in Rome, he reasonable, within a month he was able to
prepared to return to the Philippines. He had earn about 900 pesos.
already written to his father that he was
coming home. He also opened a gymnasium for young
folks where he introduced European sports.
First Homecoming He tried to interest his townies in
gymnastics, fencing, and shooting and
From 1882 to 1887, Rizal was in Europe discourage cockfights and gambling.
studying. There he was allured, fascinated
and have all the beautiful memories Rizal failed to see Leonor Rivera, his loved
throughout his sojourn. But this will not one.
make Rizal forget his fatherland and his
nationality. After 5 years of memorable A few weeks after his arrival, he received a
adventure in Europe, he returned to the letter from Governor General Emilio Terrero
Philippines in August 1887 and practiced requesting him to come to Malacañan
medicine in Calamba. Palace. Rizal went to Manila and appeared
before Gov.Gen. Terrero and denied the
Although his life is threatened because his acquisitions of the Governor General. He
Noli Me Tangere caused uproar especially explained that it was merely an exposition of
among the friars, he insists on returning truth, but he did not advocate rebellious
home. He has his reasons of coming home, ideas. The governor was pleased by his
one is that he wants to operate his mother’s explanation and asked for a copy of Noli so
eyes; another is that he wants to know how that he could read it. Rizal had no copy that
his novel affected the life of the Filipino. time but promised it to the governor general
once he secured a copy of it.
Rizal left Rome by train for Marseilles and
on July 3, 1887 he boarded the steamer Rizal found a copy in the hands of a friend.
Djemnah which was the same steamer he He was able to give it to governor general
boarded five years ago. The steamer was Terrero. The governor general knew that
enroute to the Orient via the Suez Canal. Rizal’s life was in jeopardy because the
Rizal saw this canal for the second time. friars were powerful. He then assigned a
young Spanish lieutenant as a bodyguard of
On July 30, he transferred to another Rizal.
steamer in Saigon to steamer Haiphong
which was bound to Manila. On August 2, Farewell Again
the steamer left Saigon for Manila.
Rizal’s novel caused uproar among the
Arrival at Manila friars. Anonymous threats against Rizal’s life
were received by his parents. Feeling
On August 5, the Haiphong arrived in Manila uneasy with the situation, they advised him
and he went ashore with a happy heart for to go away for his life was in danger.
he was once again in Filipino soil. He stayed
in the city for a short time to visit some Governor General Terrero summoned Rizal
friends and observed that Manila was the and advised him to leave the Philippines for
same five years ago. his own good. He was giving Rizal a change
to escape the fury of the friar’s wrath.