Pik Lenin: Mountain Madness

Pik Lenin
Mountain Madness
9249 17th Ave SW

Seattle, WA 98106
ph: 1-800-328-5925
www.mountainmadness.com
Seven Summits ● International Expeditions & Trekking
Safaris ● Mountaineering Schools ● Guided Climbing ● Skiing
9249 17th Ave SW · Seattle, WA 98106
206-937-8389 · 1-800-328-5925 · FAX: 206-937-1772
info@mountainmadness.com / www.mountainmadness.com
Since 1984
PIK LENIN – KYRGYZSTAN

(2,3406 feet / 7134 meters)
Welcome!
We are delighted that you have decided to join Mountain Madness for the Pik Lenin Expedition! This is sure to be a
successful and memorable trip.
Lenin Peak is the third highest peak in former Soviet Union and is considered to be one of the easiest mountains over
7000m. The area gets frigidly cold in winter, even though it's not as extreme as in area of Pobeda Peak. Spring is beautiful
and extremely green and even if the weather in general is quite good, sudden violent storms can hit the peak. More
important though, is the deep snow which make attempts very hard and the avalanche danger is generally high. Melt off
from the glaciers and snow fields also make access hard. In the main climbing season the weather is usually quite stable
and until you reach 5000m it can be really hot.
Route Description
There are several routes for climbing the summit, but the classical route is from the north side. The classical route does
not demand special experience and skills in technical climbing. Lenin Peak is one of the obligatory summits of "Snow
Leopard" - the highest title in alpinism in former Soviet Union. Lenin Peak is a very beautiful and powerful peak, but the
classical route does not have steep ice-rock parts.
This booklet will help prepare you for your trip and allow for a smooth transition to a much different world. Topics
included in this booklet:
Flight Information
Trip Itinerary
Travel Information
Training Suggestions
Travel Money
Suggested Reading List
Travel Insurance
Health & Medical Information
Altitude Illness
Equipment List
Cultural Considerations about Kyrgyzstan
Photography
Gratuities
Environmental Guidelines
Please read all of this information carefully. If you have questions or concerns, don’t hesitate to call us.
We’re looking forward to seeing you in Kyrgyzstan!
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Trip Overview 3-4
Itinerary for Pik Lenin 5-7
Travel Information 8-10
Arriving in Kyrgyzstan
Passport
Travel Suggestions
Travel Insurance
Traveling Money
Gratuities
Personal Safety
Training Suggestions 11
Health and First Aid Information 12-18
Health Insurance
Dental
Staying Healthy
Immunizations
Personal First Aid
Altitude Illness
Diamox
Cultural Considerations 19-20
Religion
Water
Bathing
Begging
Photography
Language
Additional Information 21
Weather
Environmental Guidelines
Equipment List 22-25
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Mountain Madness . 9249 17th Ave SW . Seattle, WA 98106
206-937-8389 / 1-800-328-5925 . FAX: 206-937-1772. Web: www.mountainmadness.com . Email: info@mountainmadness.com
TRIP OVERVIEW
As a reminder, the following outlines what is and is not included. If you have any questions regarding these
please do not hesitate to call our offices. In addition to the information here you will receive a trip letter
several weeks prior to your departure that includes details on how much money to bring with you to cover
the below mentioned expenses, important contact numbers, address of the hotel you will be staying at and
so forth.
Included in Cost:
▪ 2:1 or 3:1 client to guide ratio
▪ Peak Permit
▪ Double hotel accommodation (2 nights Osh, 2 nights Bishkek)
▪ Meals in the cities
▪ Transfers to hotels, airports and Base Camp
▪ Tents and group climbing and camping gear
▪ All food while on the mountain
▪ Using of shower, electricity in Base Camp
▪ City tour in Bishkek
Not Included in Cost:

▪ International airfare
▪ High-altitude porters
▪ Overweight/extra baggage on domestic flights and/or import and customs clearance (current load limits
are only 15kg and overweight charged at $0.75/kg)
▪ Staff/guide gratuities
▪ Personal clothing and equipment
▪ Personal expenses such as alcoholic drinks, laundry, telephone calls
▪ Trip cancellation insurance and medical/evacuation insurance (evacuation/rescue insurance is required
for issuance of permit and a hardcopy is mandatory)
▪ Additional expenses caused by disturbance in trip program due to unforeseen circumstances, weather
conditions, sickness, natural disasters, etc.
▪ Off schedule meals and lodging
FLIGHT INFORMATION:
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destinations, with some exceptions.
Please call our office to confirm that your flight itinerary is correct before you purchase airfare! This
necessitates an overnight flight from the U.S. beginning on day 1 of the itinerary. You will cross the date line
in mid-flight to Asia, thus losing a day. You’ll make this day up on the way home. Mountain Madness, Inc.
does not ticket air travel. We can assist you in booking your air travel by answering questions about dates and
travel locations. If you need a recommendation for a professional agency ticketing air travel please contact
our office for assistance. When your flight is scheduled, please send a copy of your itinerary to Mountain
Madness.
QUALIFICATIONS:
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All climbers need to submit a climbing resume. Although Pik Lenin is one of the easier 7000-meter peaks,
climbers are required to have past high altitude and mountaineering experience. To increase your chances of
success, members should be in good physical condition. If you have any questions, please call the Mountain
Madness office. We are also offering a training program called Live Your Dreams if you are interested in gaining
additional experience.
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ITINERARY FOR PIK LENIN
Included in the cost of your trip are scheduled group meals as noted below with B, L, and D. You will be
responsible for those meals not provided or those you do not attend.
Day 1-3: Travel

Travel to Kyrgyzstan takes several days coming from the U.S. In order to provide you with the exact number of
days needed for this excursion, we have included travel time in the itinerary. You will depart from the U.S. on Day
1 and, by crossing the international date line, arrive in Osh on Day 3, where Mountain Madness representatives will
meet you and transfer to hotel.
Day 4: Arrive Base Camp

Elevation: 11,811 feet / 3,600 meters
Transfer: Osh to Achik-Tash Base Camp. 280 km, about 8 hours driving. The jeeps deliver us directly to Base Camp
in an idyllic alpine meadow surrounded by lakes.
Day 5: Base Camp

Acclimatization. Climbing the Peak Petrovskogo (4830m).
Day 6: Base Camp

Rest and preparation day.
Day 7: Camp 1
We will climb the classic route of the North Face to Northwest Ridge. The route to Camp 1 takes us across the base
camp meadow to a path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200m). After this pass, we climb switch-
backs up a glacial moraine, which stretches along the left side of Lenin Glacier. Camp 1 is situated at the head of
the glacier, on a rock moraine, and is also a permanent camp with has toilet facilities, electricity and running water.
Day 8: Camp 2
Elevation: 17,388 feet/ 5300 meters/ overnight Camp 1
From Camp 1, the route crosses the glacier and ascends a long snow slope that runs toward the summit. This
section is largely crevassed and there are also often fixed ropes and ladders across some of the more broken
sections. We then traverse beneath Razdelny Peak and ascend 400m to arrive at Camp 2.
Day 9: Camp 1
Rest at Camp 1.
Day 10: Camp 2

Move to Camp 2.
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Day 11: Camp 3
Elevation: 20,013 feet / 6,100 meters / overnight Camp 1
From Camp 2 the route ascends steeply (up to 45 degrees) on to the ridge. The route is not glaciated and while
crampons will be worn, ropes and harnesses are not usually necessary. You follow the ridge up to an altitude of
6,100m where Camp 3 is established in the small saddle under Mt Razdelnaya. We'll make a cache and return to
Camp 1
Day 12: Camp 1

Preparation Day. Rest and get ready for the summit push.
Day 13: Camp 2

Climb and return to Camp 2.
Day 14: Camp 3

Climb to Camp 3.
Day 15-17: Summit Day

Elevation: 23,406 feet / 7134 meters
We will ascend along the Northwest ridge of Pik Lenin. The route travels up snow and rock eventually reaching a
plateau at 6400m. Continuing above the plateau, we encounter a short, steep snow slope of about 40
degrees. Finally, there is a rocky section which leads to the summit. The views are outstanding and, on a clear day,
stretch across the Pamir to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. We return to Camp 3 via the same route. Summit
day is long and often takes up to 15 hours.
Day 18: Camp 1

Descend to Camp 1.
Day 19: Base Camp

Descend to Base Camp.
Day 20
Extra day reserved for bad weather
Day 21
Transfer to Osh. Spend night in hotel.
Day 22-23: Fly home
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to
change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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TRAVEL INFORMATION
It can take as long as three months to make your travel plans and to obtain the necessary passport for your trip.
Flights to Asia fill up during trekking season. We strongly recommend that you arrange your flight as soon as
possible. When flying, we recommend that you hand carry important documents, medicines, camera, boots
and other irreplaceable items. You should make photocopies of your ticket, itinerary and relevant pages of your
passport (color copies work best for reproducing photos). Leave one set of copies with someone at home, carry
one set with you in your carry-on bag and keep one set with you in your wallet or money belt.
ARRIVING IN KRYGYZSTAN:
At the airport of entry the agent at the immigration desk will inspect your passport. You will be entering the
country as a tourist and your passport will be stamped. US tourists are allowed to stay in Kyrgyzstan without a
visa up to 60 days. Non-US citizens should check with the Kyrgyzstan embassy for current visa requirements.
PASSPORT:
You will need a passport valid for at least six months from the date you arrive in Kyrgyzstan. If you do not have
a passport, the appropriate applications are available at post offices and courthouses. It can take from four to
six weeks from the time you file your paperwork to receive your passport. Please be sure that you have two full
pages in your passport for any stamps they need to give you when you arrive.
TRAVEL SUGGESTIONS:
Make sure all medications, passport, cameras, and other valuables are in your carry-on baggage, not with your
checked items. If you have concerns about replacing lost items it is advisable to make a list to take with you,
both for finding substitutes during the trip and also for insurance purposes. Use locks on all your bags. Finally,
when checking in, make sure your bags are checked all the way to your final destination. If possible try to
minimize the number of connections.
When traveling abroad it is best to exercise caution and be aware of your surroundings. As of 11/4/2013 the US
State Department website advisory reads as follows: “While in the Kyrgyz Republic, you may encounter road
conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. Accidents involving severe injury and/or
death are not uncommon. Drunk driving and hit-and-run accidents are significant problems and drivers should
exercise particular caution and use defensive driving techniques, especially at night and on holidays. In the
event of an accident where there is an injury, emergency medical assistance may be very slow to respond. Even
if medical assistance does arrive in a timely manner, treatment and facilities available at local clinics may not
meet U.S. standards. The greatest threats to tourists and travelers are traffic accidents and street
crime. Terrorism is an enduring threat, especially in the southern part of the country. Supporters of terrorist
groups such as the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan (IMU) and the Islamic Jihad Union (IJU) remain active in
Central Asia, as are anti-Western, anti-Semitic extremist organizations such as Hizb’ut-Tahrir. These groups
have expressed anti-U.S. sentiments and may attempt to target U.S. government or private interests in the
region, including in Kyrgyzstan.”
Never use a wallet or purse as they are easily stolen. Use a money belt, leg pouch, or body pouch for carrying
your important items. Avoid wearing necklaces or expensive jewelry, as they can become targets for thieves.
Small carry-on bags and cameras should always be strung over the shoulder and neck. Never place a bag on
the ground - even for a moment.
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TRAVEL INSURANCE INFORMATION:
We strongly recommend the purchase of an insurance plan to protect you from the unexpected. Below you
will find several insurance resources. We are not experts on travel insurance and therefore ask that you please
consult the insurance company with any specific questions. Examples of coverage available for adventure
travel are outlined below. If you choose alternative coverage, confirm what the policy covers. If you choose
not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a
medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, lost luggage, etc. Please send us a
copy of your travel and medical evacuation insurance so that we have the information available should it
become necessary. You may email it or fax a copy to us at 206-937-1772.
*Check policies for specific exclusions.

Type of Coverage Company Contact Information
Medical, Rescue & American Alpine Club. You need to be a member Find out more about AAC at:
Evacuation to apply ($75). Several types of coverage available, American Alpine Club
Check your medical policy to including annual coverage, or per trip coverage. 303.384.0110
see what is covered, International and domestic coverage.
especially if you are traveling
internationally. Global Rescue based in Boston, MA. Good You can purchase Global Rescue online at:
resource for rescue and evacuation insurance for GlobalRescue.com
If you are in remote areas, international trips. Coverage available for trips Phone: +45 33 15 30 99
note that emergency rescue involving high altitude and technical climbing.
& evacuation can be very
expensive. We strongly urge Travel Guard will cover some medical. Travel You can purchase Travel Guard through
you to consider rescue and Guard will not provide medical or emergency links at
evacuation insurance if your medical insurance for “technical” climbing, which is TravelGuard.com
own policy does not provide defined by use of ropes. Will not cover medical, 800-826-4919
the coverage needed. rescue or evacuation over 15,000 feet. Suggested Agent # 001572
Services available may for trekking trips.
include, but are not limited
to, helicopter evacuation,
medical care, etc. Check
policy for details.
General Travel and Trip Travel Guard provides coverage to protect against You can purchase Travel Guard through
Cancellation trip cancellation, interruption, or delay due to TravelGuard.com
unforeseeable sickness, injury or death of you or a 800-826-4919
family member. Coverage also includes trip cost Agent # 001572
default protection; lost, stolen or damaged
luggage; and trip or baggage delay protection.
While on your trip bring along pertinent information such as your policy number and the phone number of your
insurance company. Should you need medical attention, make sure you keep all receipts for services provided.
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TRAVELING MONEY:
The cost of your trip includes group lodging, local transportation and food as described in the previous pages.
You will need to budget personal spending money for:
1. Meals outside of the scheduled trip itinerary. Expect to pay $5-10 per meal outside the scheduled meals
provided by Mountain Madness. (approx. $100)
2. Bottled beverages on your trek (such as sodas, beer, or bottled water) run anywhere from $0.50 to $5,
depending on how remote the area is. Mountain Madness does not cover alcoholic beverages or other
bottled beverages. (approx. $10-$50+)
3. Personal items such as laundry, phone calls, internet and snacks.
4. Souvenirs – Items range from $1 to $5000 for everything from rice paper to fine handmade paintings, rugs
and jewelry.
5. Gratuities (see page 20) – approx. $425-$625
6. Visa (see page 7) - $40 (bring exact change)
7. Emergency cash
We recommend you bring approx. $800-1,000 in cash, and credit cards. These are only suggested amounts, but
they should easily cover the items listed above. Kyrgyzstan’s currency is “som”, and the current exchange rate
is somewhere around 60 som per U. S. dollar.
GRATUITIES
On a climb or trek with a large staff you will have the opportunity to contribute to a group pool of gift money
that the trip leader will give to the entire staff. The gratuities are usually presented on the final evening of the
trip. We ask clients to budget $50 to 100 per person towards the pool for local staff such as porters, camp cook,
and so forth. Most clients usually offer a separate gratuity to their expedition leader and assistant guides. In
general, plan to pay $125 to 300 for your local guide and $125-300 for your American guide who will be with you
at all times. An example of how you might tip would be as follows;
$50-100 group pool + $125-300 for local guide + $125-300 for your U.S. guide = $300-700 total
PERSONAL SAFETY:
As with travelling in any foreign country, theft is common but can be avoided. By taking basic precautions, you
can help ensure that you do not become a victim. The most important thing to remember is to always remain
alert to your surroundings. It is easy to become overwhelmed by a new area and become careless. Never use a
wallet or purse as they are easily stolen. Use a money belt, leg pouch, or body pouch for carrying your important
items. Avoid wearing necklaces or any expensive jewelry, as it is another easy target. Small carry-on bags and
cameras should always be strung over the shoulder and neck. Never place a bag on the ground, even for a
moment.
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TRAINING SUGGESTIONS
This trip is rated as physically strenuous and we cannot over emphasize the importance of conditioning. By
getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy
the high mountain environment. You should have prior roped glacier skills and be familiar with cold weather
camping. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much
as 30-40+ lbs. at altitude while stocking higher camps on the mountain.
We suggest you begin your training program at least three months prior to departure. Walking up hills and stair
climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack,
eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a
weighted pack. The best training for mountaineering is to carry a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills,
stairs, or small mountains. Supplement this with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, etc. for additional
aerobic conditioning.
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HEALTH AND MEDICAL INFORMATION
HEALTH INSURANCE: We strongly recommend that you check your travel insurance to determine if your
accident and optional sickness coverage portions are adequate. If you have evacuation insurance, please
provide us with the phone number and policy number before you depart.
DENTAL CONCERNS: It is a good idea before any international trip to visit the dentist for a standard checkup.
STAYING HEALTHY: Once you arrive in Osh, maintaining your health is your top priority. You really must
watch everything you put into your mouth, including your own fingers. Anything that you touch or come in
contact with is fair game for carrying contaminants. Harmful protozoa, bacteria, giardia and other nasty
microorganisms are out there waiting to infect the careless, so be aware of what you eat and drink. Water and
air borne diseases are your greatest enemy while trekking in the developing world. Their onset is sudden and
their effect debilitating, sometimes even life threatening. Yet these diseases are avoidable, provided
scrupulous care is taken with water purification and personal hygiene.
Be extra vigilant about washing your hands. Since water is the most common cause of stomach upset,
remember to carry your own treated water for drinking, washing and brushing your teeth. Even in the best
hotels the water may not be safe, so be careful not to allow tap water in your mouth while you are showering
or brushing your teeth. Many hotels put jugs of water on the bedside; make sure this has been purified and the
maid has not filled it straight from the tap. We recommend that you treat water by boiling all water or filtering
water. Purchasing bottled water is an option, but the countryside is littered with abandoned bottles and plastic
water bottles create significant waste. We need not contribute to this environmental problem—Mountain
Madness will provide you with boiled drinking water throughout your trip. While trekking in, maintain your
vigilance by treating all water and watch everything that you put in your mouth.
Avoid the wayside stalls which sell food to the locals; they often look good and certainly are very inexpensive,
but you might pay in other ways later. Save adventure eating for after the expedition! A final hint: Try to
develop the habit of simply keeping your hands away from your face. Do not pick your teeth, rub your eyes or
any other facial feature. All of your precautions with food will be for naught if you rub your face with
contaminated fingers.
IMMUNIZATIONS: The following immunization suggestions should be used as a guideline. There are no
inoculations required for entry to Kyrgyzstan, however the requirement may change. Please consult your
physician, the Public Health Department and/or the Center for Disease Control and Prevention at 1-888-232-
3299 or on the web at http://www.cdc.gov/travel for all of your travel questions.
Arrange a schedule of inoculations, beginning at least two months prior to your departure, so that they can be
adequately spaced. All shots need to be entered on your International Certificate of Vaccination (Yellow Card),
provided by the health facility and kept with your passport while you are traveling. Please note that
immunizations do not provide 100% immunity and should not be taken as a ticket to sample anything you wish
once you have been immunized. Continue to take precautions against contact with contaminated or suspect
sources.
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Here is our current list of inoculations; please discuss these guidelines with your doctor to determine which
are most appropriate for you and for your trip to Kyrgyzstan.
 Cholera: Consult a medical professional; no vaccine is required.
 Diphtheria-Tetanus booster: Normally needed every ten years, unless you are injured. We suggest
getting a booster, as minor scrapes and cuts are common occurrences.
 Typhoid: Desirable for anyone traveling and camping in rural areas, even in the U.S. The CDCP
recommends either injections or the oral vaccine. The initial series of injections entail receiving two
shots spaced one month apart. A single dose booster is good for three years. A new oral vaccine,
Vivitoff Berna, has been approved by the FDA. The course medication is four capsules, one every other
day, for a week. Full effectiveness is reached in a week.
 Oral Polio: If you have had the original four doses, a booster is not necessary. Consult your doctor if
you are unsure.
 Meningitis: A Meningococcal Meningitis vaccination is recommended. The vaccination should be

taken at least two weeks before departure. This vaccine can be difficult to find in some areas of the
U.S. The vaccine is only effective for bacterial forms of meningitis.
 Gamma Globulin: For protection against hepatitis; strongly recommended for travel in any
developing country. This injection is given immediately before departure as the immunity is passive
and subsides after a few weeks.
 Malaria: The most current information on malaria can be obtained by calling the CDCP at 404-639-
8105.
 Hepatitis A: Vaccination against Hepatitis A is strongly recommended for travel in any developing
country. This injection is given immediately before departure as the immunity is passive and subsides
after a few weeks. Vaccination against Hepatitis B is not recommended unless you are a health care
provider or will be having sexual contact with a Kygyzstani local.
 Japanese Encephalitis: Vaccination is advised for travel in Asia. Please check with you health
provider, This is particularly prevalent in the wet season. Vaccines include 3 doses spaced 1 week
apart.
 Measles, Mumps and Rubella: Usually all three of these vaccines are taken as part of childhood
boosters. Check with your physician to ensure that you have received these important vaccinations.
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PERSONAL FIRST AID SUPPLIES
Although we bring a substantial first aid kit for emergencies on every Mountain Madness, Inc. adventure, you
should bring a small personal kit comprised of any drugs and supplies that you will need. You do not need to
buy everything on this list, but we recommend that you be prepared with necessary medications for basic
illnesses. Mountain Madness does not dispense medication. If you take any prescription medication on a
regular basis or for occasionally occurring issues, bring enough for the entire trip, as they will not be available
abroad. Please discuss any medications you are taking with your guide.
Below is a list of common symptoms/issues. Please discuss the following symptoms with your physician and
use the suggested medications as a guideline for your trip. Your personal needs and preferences as well as the
advice of your doctor will influence your choices. Our highly recommended choices are in bold.
 Colds, allergies: On high altitude treks, colds and coughs are more common than stomach problems,
as the air is extremely thin, dry and cold at altitude. We highly recommend that you bring cough/cold
medication, even if you are not normally prone to respiratory problems. It’s good to have a supply of
cough drops with topical analgesic. You may also want a cough suppressant and/or a cold remedy such
as Sudafed. Be aware that taking decongestants at high altitude can sometimes lead to headaches and
sinus congestion, so you may want a cough suppressant separate from your decongestant.
▪ Recommended: throat lozenges with analgesic, decongestant, cough suppressant, Azithromycin

or Amoxicillin.
 Bacterial Diarrhea: You are advised to bring some kind of antibiotics and salts/electrolytes for diarrhea
and other gastrointestinal problems. The majority (90%) of GI problems are bacterial, and half the
bacteria in Asia are Cipro-resistant. We strongly recommend bringing a course of both Ciprofloxacin
and Azithromycin plus rehydration packets/tablets of electrolytes/salts to mix with water. You may
want to carry some Imodium or Lomotil treat the symptoms of diarrhea but not the cause.
▪ Recommended: Ciprofloxacin, Azithromycin (recommended), Electrolyte/salt packets or tablets
 Giardia and Amoebic dysentery: Tiniba is an effective drug used for amebic dysentery and giardia.
Tiniba is usually available in Asia without a prescription. Prophylactic use of other medications (such as
Ampicillin and Tetracycline) is controversial as they may dramatically increase susceptibility to more
virulent organisms causing dysentery. They also increase susceptibility to debilitating sunburn. Consult
your physician.
 Altitude sickness: Acetazolamide (Diamox) can reduce the symptoms of altitude illness, but it does not
prevent altitude sickness. Please read the enclosed information on Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).
▪ Recommended: Acetazolamide (Diamox)
 Mild pain, headache, fever, muscle soreness: Aspirin, Tylenol, Ibuprofen, Naproxin Sodium, Tylenol
with codeine or Percodan for more severe pain
▪ Recommended: Tylenol (for fever), Ibuprofen or other (for swelling/inflammation/pain)

-
-
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 Upset stomach: Pepto-Bismol tablets; Donnatal for stomach cramps; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta
antacid tablets; lactobacillus capsules or grapefruit seed extract taken daily may help keep your
gastrointestinal system working smoothly.
 Sun protection: The sun is stronger at high altitude. We recommend that at least factor #30 sunblock
be worn at all times. Be sure that the sunscreen you use is durable and will last for many hours. Above
10,000 feet, a total sunscreen is best.
▪ Recommended: Sunblock 30-70 SPF
 Lip balm: Lips can get badly chapped and burnt at high altitudes. Please be sure your lip balm contains
sun protection--at least 30 spf and/or Zinc oxide.
▪ Recommended: Lip balm containing sunblock
 Sleep Aids: Most are not recommended for use at high altitudes due to respiratory depression. If you
use any type of sleep medication, please consult your doctor about use at high altitude.
 Blood Pressure: If you take a medication to alleviate high blood pressure, please consult your doctor
about whether your medication is part of a class called beta-blockers and let your guide know this
information.
 Antibiotic side-effects (for women): Diflucan* or non-prescription treatment
Other Personal First Aid Kit Supplies
Recommended:
 Water treatment tablets
 Moleskin and/or Second Skin and/or Spyroflex pads: bring a good supply to help care for blisters
and sore spots!
 Band-Aids and bandages: assorted sizes
 Alcohol or Betadine swabs: for small abrasions
 Adhesive medical tape: a small roll1-2 rolls
 Small tube of topical antibiotic (Bactracin, Neosporin, Polysporin, etc.)
 Moisturizer: helps keep hands and skin from cracking in dry climates
 Laxative: to help with constipation
 Liniment: for sore joints and muscles
 Spare glasses/contact lenses
 Knee braces: if you have had knee problems, braces may be helpful
 Thermometer
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ALTITUDE ILLNESS:
Most people traveling to high elevations experience one or more of the following mild symptoms of altitude
sickness:
- difficulty sleeping - darker urine
- headache - mild shortness of breath
- nausea - breathing irregularity (during sleep)
- loss of appetite - dizziness or light headedness
- mild weakness - slight swelling of hands and face
As long as symptoms remain mild, ascent at a modest rate can continue. If several of the above symptoms are
present and the traveler is quite uncomfortable, further ascent should be halted and the person observed
closely. If there is no improvement after a few hours, or after a night’s rest, the individual should descend as
rapidly as possible and seek medical attention.
The following symptoms indicate a moderate to severe level of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and require
immediate attention. The individual should not continue their ascent and should consider descent:
- a headache that does not respond to aspirin or ibuprofen
- vomiting
- difficulty walking and coordination
- changes in personality such as combativeness or impaired judgment
- severe shortness of breath while at rest or with mild exercise
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE): Pulmonary Edema is a leakage of fluid into the lungs that makes
breathing difficult. It is a very serious condition that requires rapid detection and immediate descent. HAPE can
appear as low as 8,000 feet and is usually associated with rapid ascent and/or strenuous levels of exertion.
Onset of symptoms is usually not immediate and may not appear until 6-8 hours after arriving at an elevation.
Early symptoms resemble AMS, while later symptoms are related to fluid filling the lungs, and are accompanied
by a terrible sense of anxiety as breathing becomes more difficult.
The following symptoms of altitude sickness are a serious matter and can be signs of high altitude pulmonary
edema (HAPE):
- marked shortness of breath with only slight exertion
- rapid breathing after resting (25 or more breaths per minute)
- wet, bubbly breathing
- rapid heart rate after resting (110 or more beats per minute)
- severe coughing spasms that limit activity
- coughing up pinkish or rust colored sputum
- low urine output (less than a pint daily)
- persistent vomiting
- gross fatigue or extreme lassitude
- delirium, confusion and coma
It is important that an individual who is believed to have HAPE lie down and make no effort to exert strenuously
as this will only compound the problem. The treatment for HAPE is immediate descent. While descending, it is
important that the individual keep their heart rate down and does not over exert. A person should be carried if
a small hill or incline is encountered while on the descent. Spending time at higher elevations before your trip
may be helpful in some circumstances.
If severe illness develops, immediate descent or medical attention is mandatory.
15
Acclimatization Program:
▪ Slow ascent: Ascend to altitude in stages, allowing the body time to properly acclimatize.
▪ Increasing fluid intake: This is a must. Fluids ensure that you are properly hydrated. Plan to drink four
quarts or more a day while on the climb. Urine volume should always exceed one pint. Urine color should
be almost clear.
▪ Proper nutrition: Caloric intake should be maintained and your diet should be high in carbohydrates. We
will provide a proper diet; it will be your job to eat it.
▪ Adequate rest: This is especially important during the first two days at altitude. We follow the rule of climb
high and sleep low. This strategy enables the body to acclimatize more effectively and reduces a person’s
chances of developing an altitude-related illness.
▪ Maintaining a slow pace: No over-exertion; rest during stops; avoid alcohol, caffeine, narcotic pain killers,
and sleeping pills that can dehydrate or suppress the respiratory drive.
▪ Using Diamox: See below.
DIAMOX
Mountain Madness, Inc. recommends that you consult your doctor regarding the possible use of Diamox to aid
in acclimatization. Please ask your doctor about updated prophylactic dosage recommendations of 125mg-
250mg 1-2x/day. Also, please discuss with your guide if you are taking this or any other medication. Do not
start taking this drug before your trip starts or at any time on the trek without consulting the guide. It is a sulfa-
based drug, and therefore it is contra-indicated for people with sulfa allergy and/or women who are pregnant.
We suggest that, under the guidance of your physician you obtain a supply of Diamox for use on trips above
15,000 feet. Make sure that you get a prescription that covers the number of days you will be at high altitude.
The dosage required is based on your body weight. We suggest getting tablets that can be broken in half
instead of capsules which are not as versatile. **Diamox is not a substitute for good physical conditioning.**
Dr. Peter Hackett's book Mountain Sickness: Prevention, Recognition and Treatment includes this comment
about Diamox:Diamox, it is now generally agreed, does reduce the incidence and severity of acute mountain
sickness (and we also use it to treat mild acute mountain sickness). This has been determined statistically on large
numbers of people. For a given individual, however, the medication should in no way be thought of as a guarantee
of freedom from mountain sickness. Serious mountain sickness has been reported, although rarely, in persons
taking Diamox. Side effects most noted are numbness and tingling in fingers,
toes or face and in increased urine output.”
Additional information about the use of Diamox can be obtained by calling Mountain Madness, Inc. at
http://www.ciwec-clinic.com/articles/altitude_illness_advice_for_trekker.php. For further reading on health
related topics please consult Altitude Illness - Prevention and Treatment (available from our office for $6.95)
and The Pocket Doctor - A Passport to Healthy Travel, both by Stephen Bezruchka. M.D. Also, Going Higher:
Oxygen, Man and Mountains, by Charles Houston, M.D. - a classic study of high altitude survival.
High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE): HACE is a relatively rare condition where the brain swells. HACE
usually takes a couple of days to develop at altitude, although cases have occurred immediately upon arriving.
The earliest signs and symptoms include difficulty with walking and balance and psychological withdrawal.
Immediate descent is mandatory if HACE is suspected. Symptoms include:
- disorientation, confusion, or hallucinations, inability to walk a straight line walking heel to toe.
- intense headache that does not go away with a mild pain killer
- nausea and vomiting
16
CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS
In Kyrgyzstan, religion plays in immense role in the daily lives of the people. It can be difficult for travelers in
Kyrgyzstan to fully comprehend the practices, traditions and rituals that comprise everyday life. The local
inhabitants could see a seemingly innocent act on the part of a traveler as offensive. Your local Mountain
Madness guide will help you along the way. Smiles and gestures work well when language is a barrier. If you
simply accept cultural differences and take a relaxed attitude, you will enjoy the trip much more. Observe the
local people carefully and use common sense. Always ask a local person if you are in doubt.
RELIGION: Nearly 80% of the people in Kyrgyzstan are Muslim. Although Islam is more of a cultural
background for the Kyrgyz people than a daily practice, there is a growing presence of Muslim beliefs and
influence in politics. Of the different sects of Islam, Sunni is the predominant branch of Islam in Kyrgyzstan.
The prophet Muhammad, who was born in the Arabian city of Mecca in 570 and died in 632, founded the Muslim
religion. Muhammad preached the universal brotherhood where all men were equal in the sight of God and was
able to unite the masses of the Middle East with his religion. Today, Islam is the second largest religion in the
world, second only to Christianity. The Koran, the holy book of Islam, is the written and oral records compiled
during Mohammed’s lifetime that lays down the moral code for all devout Muslims. Unlike the bible in the
Christian religion that is often open for interpretation, the Koran is infallible and is the supreme authority to
which every Muslim looks for guidance.
Each Muslim has five fundamental religious duties, called the pillars of Islam. He must recite the creed, ‘La illaha
illa ‘llah Muhammad Rasulu ‘lah’ (There is no god but Allah, and Muhammad is his prophet). He must pray five
times a day, observe the fast during the month of Ramazon (Ramadon in most other countries) and he has a
religious duty to give alms to the poor. Finally, he must make the pilgrimage to Mecca.
The Muslim religion is fairly equally divided into three sects: the Sunni, Shia and Ismaili. Muhammad died
without naming a clear successor, and the resulting struggle for power created two main sects of Islam. The
Sunnis who followed elected leaders called caliphs, and the Shias who followed a line of hereditary leaders
called imams. The Ismaili are an offshoot of the Shias that broke off in the eighth century.
WATER: Drinking water, especially from springs, is considered sacred and is protected by ritual. River and
stream water is not so protected. Many villages have only small springs from which to draw water. Usually
these springs have an area of uncut forest above them and religious objects nearby. Before taking water from
these springs, it is best to receive permission from a local person. If there is no one present, then follow these
guidelines: 1) Use only a very clean utensil to draw water. 2) Do not drink directly from this utensil or the spring.
3) Do not brush your teeth or wash anything near the spring. 4) Carry water twenty or more feet away as the
consequences of polluting the water are disastrous to these villages.
BATHING: Bathing improperly may also offend local people. Villagers are unable to fetch water while
foreigners are bathing, and what's more, for certain castes, the used water is considered polluted and unusable.
The local priest must conduct numerous rituals to purify the water for human consumption, thus improper use
of water sources is an inconvenience and an insult to these people.
Please ask your guide or Kyrgyz crew where you should bathe. Men and women are expected to bathe
separately. Men wear shorts or underwear while bathing, and women wrap a large piece of cotton (sarong)
17
around themselves while washing. Your guide may be able to point out more secluded areas in which to bathe
where these precautions are less important, but remember to be discreet and have a towel and clothing on
hand.
BEGGING: Do not encourage begging by handing out gifts. You will find that begging is not as present of an
issue in Kyrgyzstan as it is in other third world countries. This is because of the pillar of Koran that states that
rich people must give alms to the poor. As a result of this policy, your porters and guides will expect a large tip
for their services. They view you, the westerner, as rich and them as deserving of alms.
If you wish to bring gifts for children, ask your Guide to stop at a school along the way and give the gifts to the
school master for distribution. Good presents are pencils, pens, crayons, etc. Do not give candy or gum as they
work against good dental hygiene, or balloons, which can be dangerous to very small children.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Your visit to Kyrgyzstan will offer exceptional subject matter for photography. Respect the
local people's wishes and always ask before taking pictures of individuals and inside places of religious
significance. Try to refrain from photographing people in exchange for money. Some people believe that bad
luck will be brought upon them by the ‘evil eye’ of the camera while others do not want their photos in
magazines or other publications. Be discreet in taking photos of people; a zoom lens can be very helpful.
Sometimes people will ask for a small amount of money in exchange for taking a photograph. Use good
judgment when deciding whether to pass out money. Some people dress in their traditional clothing and pose
in public areas and are ‘at work.’ In this situation it is appreciated if you give a small amount of money.
Bring everything that you will need as you may be unable to purchase specialized items in Kyrgyzstan. The high
altitude and intense sun can be problematic for photography. A general rule of thumb is to shoot photos in the
morning and afternoon as the mid-day sun is the most intense and will wash out your photos. A polarizer can
be helpful.
LANGUAGE: Kyrgyzstan has two official languages, Kyrgyz and Russian. Like Russian, Kyrgyz is written using
a Cyrillic script. While over 4 million people in the country speak Kyrgyz as their first language, over 3 million of
them speak Russian as their second language.
18
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
WEATHER: As with all high altitude mountain climbs, weather can be quite unpredictable. The Pamir
Mountains are covered in snow throughout the year from long, bitterly cold winters and very short, cool
summers, making July and August the best time to climb Pik Lenin. When you pack for Pik Lenin be sure to
include all the items on the list, including a number of warm layers. Don’t forget to include a change of clothes
or two for the warmer climates you’ll pass through on your way to the mountain.
ENVIRONMENTAL GUIDELINES: As visitors to a foreign country, we must recognize the magnitude of our
environmental and cultural impact. These mountains see a lot of visitors throughout the season, and it is very
important that every group use “Leave No Trace” travel and camping techniques while traveling through this
sensitive, high altitude alpine zone. The impact of tourism can either be positive, leading to increased awareness
and change, or negative, contributing to cultural and environmental exploitation. We ask you to please assist us
in increasing the positive aspects by adhering to the guidelines listed below:
▪ Never use fires, especially above 13,000 feet.

▪ Pack out your own litter and any other trash you may encounter. We ask that you carry all non-burnable
items, such as batteries and plastics, back home. Additionally, avoid purchasing items such as bottled water
which create additional garbage in the region.
▪ Be very careful with where you choose to go to the bathroom to prevent the contamination of water
sources. While on the trek in, you will be able to use toilets or outhouses at every village.
▪ Do not wash in any streams. Soap, lotions and toothpaste all contaminate the water, even biodegradable
varieties. Since many of the drainages flow directly into streams, it is best to avoid any soaps even while
washing in villages. The best alternative for washing is to heat water over a stove, wash and dispose of any
waste water as you would with human waste so as not to contaminate any water supplies.
▪ Walk lightly and avoid trampling or destroying all trees, plants and shrubs. The growing season in the alpine
zone is very short and it can take years or decades for a plant to recover.
▪ There are many archeological sights in Kyrgyzstan; do not disturb them so that others can also appreciate
the history of this region.
▪ Deforestation is a problem in alpine and sub-alpine areas, and for this reason we discourage campfires.
BE VOCAL BUT RESPECTFUL: If you feel the need to express your environmental concerns, do so by
explaining them to others in a polite and tactful way. If you have suggestions, speak to your trip leader about
how environmental awareness can be approached in a sensitive way to the local people. Education is
important, but as visitors in a foreign land, we can only make suggestions and hope environmentally sound
practices will be adopted. Teaching by way of example is always a good policy.
19
PIK LENIN EQUIPMENT LIST
A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in town, trekking in the humidity and
heat and to protect you from the cold and wind at high altitudes. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear
for the demands of this trek and climb are the minimum required for this trip.
You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains,
so make sure you have everything on the list.
Mountain Madness believes that all mountain travel equipment should follow two simple tenets: Lightweight and
Functional. Lightweight equipment increases your chance of success and helps make you more comfortable. Functional
equipment determines how warm, dry, and safe you will be, so always choose equipment that is of good quality, is
dependable, and is adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions.
Clothing impacts not only your comfort but also your safety. Always be critical of the quality and the proper fit of your
clothing. Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose
wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin.
Our recommended clothing system has four layers.

▪ Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (Polypro, capilene, driclime)
▪ Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well. The main
Softshell fabrics are Polartec Wind Pro, Gore Windstopper N2S, Schoeller and each clothing manufacturer has their
own. 200 weight fleece can be substituted for our Soft Shell recommendations but is not as versatile on how it may
be used when layering.
▪ Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable. (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
▪ Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)
These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that
would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough
clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably
won’t use.
Check “Links” on the Mountain Madness website for a direct link to reputable vendors.
For used, new or rental equipment try these two retailers. Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new
and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. They are great at
answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810 and online at
http://www.secondascent.com . We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle which also rents gear,
and will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them
at (206) 292-2210 or visit http://www.featheredfriends.com
20
Climbing Gear
 Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
 2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking
 2 Regular carabiners
 Ice axe w/leash Lightweight. Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
 Expedition boots OR 1 pair of plastic expedition boots w/ 1 pair of over boots.
 Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type
recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit Make sure they fit properly with your super-gaiters prior
to arrival.
 Adjustable trekking poles
 Belay device
 Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material
 2-3 Slings (shoulder length -24”)
Upper Body
 2 Cotton T-shirts
 1 Polypropylene T-shirt
 2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
 2 Sports bras synthetic, no cotton!
 1 Soft Shell or fleece
 Down/synthetic sweater or vest
 Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit
over multiple layers.
 Expedition down parka with hood & 1 pair of down pants or down suit (minimum 700 fill down). Must fit
comfortably over under layers
 1 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
 1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
 Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your
hands dry
Hand wear
We require two systems: one glove system for lower on the mountain, and a mitten over mitt system for the cold
temperatures encountered on summit day.
 2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
 1 Pair warm gloves Fleece or wool
 1 Pair expedition shell gloves (OR has a good selection)
 1 Pair modular expedition shell mitts and liners. OR Pro Mitts with expedition liners recommended. If they do
not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to
your wrist so that you do not lose your mittens in high winds.
Head gear
 Warm hat. Wool or synthetic that cover your ears.
 Balaclava
 Mountain Madness buff (optional)
 Face mask
 Shade hat or baseball cap
 Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
 1 Pair extra sunglasses (Also with UV protection in case your 1st pair breaks)
 1 Ski goggles with UV protection *
21
*If you require prescription glacier glasses, get your lenses modified to your prescription. Julbo glacier glasses
works great for prescription lenses. Send the glasses to Opticus along with your PD number with your order. Their
number is 1-800-870-5557 get these with your prescription
Lower Body
 4 Pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene
 2-3 Pair light weight trekking socks
 4 Pair med-heavy wool socks check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
 1 Pair nylon shorts
 1 Pair nylon pants for trekking and around camp
 2 Pair long underwear bottoms (1 lightweight/ 1 mid or exped weight) Polypropylene or Capilene
 Soft shell pants Schoeller fabrics
 Hard shell pants. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best.
 Down booties (optional)
 Trail shoes for the hike to Base Camp and use at camp.
 Sandals or tennis shoes (optional)
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags
Sleeping gear
 1 down sleeping bag (Rated to -10 F or below). .
 1 Full length Thermarest pad (bring repair kit)
 1 Medium or full length closed cell foam pad
Backpack
 Internal frame pack 5000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
 1 Daypack for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you plan to use it for your
summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, misc. clothes, food and water.
 2 Large (7,500+cu.in.) duffle bags for gear Must be durable for use on pack animals
 1 Small duffel bag to store street at the hotel in Osh.
 Small padlocks for duffel bags
Misc.
 1 first-aid kit with ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended medications
 Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
 2 or 3 tubes of sunscreen. At least SPF 40
 Headlamp.
 3 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle).
 Hydration bladder with drinking tube for lower mountain-(optional).
 1 water bottle insulator
 Plastic mug w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger.
 Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
 Pocket knife small Swiss-army type.
 Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals.
 Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
 3-4 Large plastic bags, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
 Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
 Bandana
 Camp towel
 Ear plugs
 Hand wipes
22
 1 small stainless steel thermos (optional)
 Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)
 Paperback books, cards, MP3 player, etc. NOTE: Regular IPODs with hard drives are problematic at altitude
and may not work. It is better to bring a flash drive player for music.
 Power Converter for electronics chargers There will be several opportunities to re-charge cameras, music
players, etc. along the trek.
 Binoculars (optional for viewing the route from the lower camps)
 Camera 1 light weight point & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR type is optional for the trek in and base camp
 Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport
 Passport and passport photos
 Airline ticket
 1-2 Spare changes of casual clothing for evenings and days in Osh
* Since you know what your taste buds crave, bring some of your favorite trail snacks for the trek and a couple of tasty
dehydrated meals for high camps.
23

Pik Lenin: Mountain Madness

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Pik Lenin

9249 17th Ave SW

PIK LENIN – KYRGYZSTAN

Not Included in Cost:

Day 1-3: Travel

Day 4: Arrive Base Camp

Day 5: Base Camp

Day 6: Base Camp

Day 10: Camp 2

Day 12: Camp 1

Day 13: Camp 2

Day 14: Camp 3

Day 15-17: Summit Day

Day 18: Camp 1

Day 19: Base Camp

Day 22-23: Fly home

*Check policies for specific exclusions.

 Cholera: Consult a medical professional; no vaccine is required.

 Meningitis: A Meningococcal Meningitis vaccination is recommended. The vaccination should be

▪ Recommended: throat lozenges with analgesic, decongestant, cough suppressant, Azithromycin

▪ Recommended: Ciprofloxacin, Azithromycin (recommended), Electrolyte/salt packets or tablets

▪ Recommended: Acetazolamide (Diamox)

▪ Recommended: Tylenol (for fever), Ibuprofen or other (for swelling/inflammation/pain)

▪ Recommended: Sunblock 30-70 SPF

▪ Recommended: Lip balm containing sunblock

 Antibiotic side-effects (for women): Diflucan* or non-prescription treatment

Other Personal First Aid Kit Supplies

▪ Never use fires, especially above 13,000 feet.

Our recommended clothing system has four layers.

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