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Nathula Pass
A Day Trip From Gangtok
Located at an altitude of 14,140 feet and 56kms from Gangtok, Nathula Pass
was the place through which the famous Silk Route used to operate until
1962. This used to be the silk trade route between India and Tibet. Lines of
mules used to carry silk, gold and many other items from Tibet to India and
take daily essentials back to Tibet.
The route in Tibet goes down the Chumbi Valley to Yathung, a place about
30kms away which once used to be a major trading township (no longer so).
In fact on a clear day you can see this route winding down the valley. If you
look at the eastern horizon, you can see the magnificent peak of Chomolhari
of Bhutan.
The fenced Indo-China border is also few meters away and you can see both
Indian and Chinese soldiers guarding the border. The guards are friendly. A
stairway leads to the border. There is no 'no mans land' here. Even today,
mails are delivered across the border on certain days of the week. There is an
engraved stone here called Nehru Stone which marks the visit of former Prime
Minister of India Jawaharlal Nehru who visited in 1958.
When the war broke out between India and China in 1962, the Indo-China
border at Nathula was relatively quiet. But in 1965 a firing across the border
took place because of a dispute around the location of the fenced border. In
1967 a major confrontation took place here between the two countries and
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many lives were lost on both sides. You will find a memorial here constructed
in honor of the Indian soldiers who lost their lives in this battle.
Nathula Pass
After some 44 years of closure, the old Silk Route again reopened on 6th July
2006 allowing limited trade between India and Tibet of China. Items such as
wool, raw silk, yak hair, yak tail, China clay, horses, sheep etc can be
imported duty free from Tibet of China through this route while 29 items
including clothes, tea, coffee, rice etc can be exported to China. This is
however limited only to a border trade and participated by 100 odd
businessmen.
This Indo-Chinese trade market operates from 1st June to 30th September
every year and from Monday to Thursday every week during that period.
Trade marts have been set up on both Indian as well as Tibet side. The Indian
trade mart is located at a place called Sherathang about 3kms below Nathula
pass. It has a well developed shopping mart and India's highest altitude
internet Cafe. Trade mart on Tibet side is located at Rinchangang.
As a tourist you can visit the border trade market at Sherathang. Close to
Sherathang is another place called Kupup which mostly remains covered with
cloud. It has the second highest golf course in the world. Among other things
in Kupup, you will find the Gnathang Monastery, and Gnathang War Memorial
which was built in memory of the British soldiers who died in a war with Tibet
in 1800s.
On the way to Nathula, you will come across a place called Thegu which has
an ATM. This is the highest altitude ATM in the world. It operates with a
generator and a special fuel that does not freeze in such high altitude. You
can withdraw cash or just check your balance & take the slip as a souvenir.
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A note of caution
Because of the high altitude at Nathula, oxygen level in the air is quite low.
Few (adults or children) can face breathing problems at Nathula. If you
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already have breathing or other health problems, you should consult a doctor
before the visit. You can take Acetazolamide Tablets (consult doctor for
dosage) while visiting Nathula. It helps to cope with high altitude sickness.
You may also consider carrying portable oxygen cylinders. They come at
various sizes. Larger ones last continuously for 3-4 hours. There are also
small cylinders. Each small one lasts for about 15 minutes. If you start having
breathing problems, you should immediately come down. You will get portable
oxygen cylinders in Gangtok at Medical shops. Your hotel can also arrange if
necessary. If unused, they are returnable but refund is usually partial.
You need to get the permit done through a tour operator authorized by Sikkim
government (there are plenty of them in Gangtok). And you can visit Nathula
only by a vehicle provided by such a tour operator. You can not take a city
taxi or a self driven vehicle to Nathula... you won't be allowed. The permit is
issued by the Sikkim Tourism Department in Gangtok / Police Check Post.
You will need photo ID proof like Passport / Voters Card/ Adhaar Card (PAN
card is not accepted) and two passport size photos each. Application for
permits are done in the morning and the permits are usually issued in the
afternoon or sometimes next day. So you should apply for the permit at least
one day before your planned visit. Note: Journey to Nathula starts in the
morning.
If you do not want to spare a day in Gangtok for the permit, you should then
send your documents (photo copies) and self photos to your tour operator in
advance to get the permits done before you arrive. Permit cost includes Rs.
200/- per person for the form provided by the tour operator (it can vary) and
additional Rs. 20 for the permit itself. Permits are not required (or issued) to
children below 4 years. You can however take an infant at your own risk.
For more information about permits, read Sikkim permits for restricted
& protected areas.
Note that Nathula Pass being an Indo-Chinese border area, photography and
videography are not allowed. However tourists do take pictures and this
prohibition is not strictly implemented.
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How to reach
Take a round trip tour package from an authorized tour operator in Gangtok.
Nathula is on Jawaharlal Nehru Road which originates from Gangtok and
located at a distance of 56kms. It will require a full day trip from Gangtok to
visit Nathula. It is usually combined with visits to Tsomgo Lake and Baba
Mandir.
Vehicles from Sikkim government approved tour operators are only allowed
for Nathula. Click here for some of such well known operators.
Tour operators also operate such tours in groups in high season that operate
on per person rate (i.e. on sharing basis). This is a more affordable option.
However the permit process is the same. In low season, shared vehicles are
usually not available due to lack of demand. The road condition is not good.
Only Jeep or SUV type vehicles (like Bolero, Scorpio, Sumo etc) are suitable.
Sometimes due to snow, landslides and other road conditions, traffic gets held
up for hours on this route.
Winter starts from November and peaks between December to February. This
is when heavy snowing takes place and the temperature can easily go below
-25°C. Often the route to Nathula remains closed during winter when it snows
heavily. However if the route is open and you make a visit during the winter,
pick up snow boots and heavy winter-wears along the way. There are stalls
that offer such snow gears on rentals. The two months - November and March
are good time to see Nathula covered in snow. The route usually remains
open on these two winter months.
However from Mid December till third week of April too you can get snow at
Nathula. From May onwards the snowing usually stops although there can be
exceptions on certain days.
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Visitors' Reviews/Comments
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takes up to 7 persons apart from the driver. Shared trips are usually
available in high season when there is good demand for such trips. Some
times the route remains closed in December-end due to snow.
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due to snow in December? If so, if the roads are blocked does this prevent
visiting Tsomgo, Baba Mandir? Kind Regards.
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all necessary measures. Better to avoid. There have been ample cases of
kids having problems including nausea, headaches etc. Lack of oxygen is
the main issue.
By Raj Bhattacharya
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