Nordstrom Product Group

CONSTRUCTION MANUAL
• 1901 – Calibrate – JWN – Nordstrom Signature – Nordstrom Men’s Shop
– The Rail – Treasure & Bond – 14th & Union – Broletto – Public Opinion –
Nordstrom Rack – Wallin & Bros

MAY 2019
In reviewing the Construction manual table of content, please reference below
diagram to locate the accurate page. Our naming format is as below:

“ 1 – W – pockets – A ”

1st portion is the number of the top main category. (1 for Tops, 2 for Bottoms, 3
for 2pc/Dresses, 4 for General)

2nd portion is the letter for the fabric type. (W for woven, K for Knits, S for
Sweaters, G for General)

3rd portion is the descriptive file name

4th portion is the end letter for variations

“1-W-Sleeve Setting-A” for example: this is a construction method for a Top, made
with woven fabric, on how to set sleeves, construction variance A

As always, please contact your technical designer should you have any questions.
 Table of Contents
Men’s
1-G-Full Zip Front Sleepwear 1
1-G-Shoulder Pad Set-A 2
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-D 3
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-E 4
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-F 5
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-G 6
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-H 7
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-I 8
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-J 9
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-K 10
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-L 11
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-M 12
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-N 13
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-O 14
1-K-Neck Edge Finish-P 15
1-K-Neck quality point 16
1-K-Neck types 17
1-K-Placket quality point 18
1-K-Placket variation 19
1-K-Pocket-Hanging Pocket Bag- Quality Point 20
1-K-Raglan Seam Finishes-A 21
1-K-Shoulder Seam-B 22
1-K-Sleeve Body Construction 23
1-S-Armhoe Shaping Standards 24
1-S-Hanging Pocket Bag Standards 25
1-S-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns 26
1-S-Matching Standards 27
1-S-Neck Construction Standards-A 28
1-S-Neck Construction Standards-B 29
1-S-Sleeve and Bottom Opening Standards 30
1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-A 31
1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-B 32
1-W-Back Lining 33
1-W-Back Vent Lining Construction-A 34
1-W-Collars on jackets 35
1-W-Collars-B 36
1-W-Cuff and Sleeve Placket-B 37
1-W-Front Lining 38
1-W-Hem Finish-C 39
1-W-Interlining on Collar Bands 40
1-W-Interlining on Lined Jackets 41
1-W-Interlining Standards 42
1-W-Jacket Darts 43
1-W-Lapel and collar on jacket 44
1-W-Lapel basting 45
1-W-Lining Construction Standards 46
1-W-Matching Plaid Standards-B 47
1-W-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns-C 48
1-W-Placket and Shaped Facing-D 49
1-W-Pockets Inside Leather Jacket 50
1-W-Pockets Inside of Pocket Flaps and Epaulettes 51
1-W-Pockets Inside-A 52
1-W-Pockets Inside-B 53
1-W-Pockets Patch Pockets-B 54
1-W-Pockets Welt Pockets 55
1-W-Seam Binding Unlined Jackets 56
1-W-Sleeve Lining Join at Hem 57
1-W-Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and Fusing 58
1-W-Sleeve Vent Construction on Jackets 59
1-W-Smart Care Taping Standards 60
1-W-Standard Seam Shell & Lining 61
1-W-Taping for Suiting-A 62
1-W-Taping for Suiting-B 63
1-W-Tux Standard 64
1-W-Unlined Jacket Hem 65
1-W-Yoke seam 66
2-K-Seam finish 67
2-W-Alterable CB Standard-A 68
2-W-Body Join Seams 69
2-W-Crotch Piece Standard 70
2-W-Lining Standards-B 71
2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-B 72
2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-C 73
2-W-Pockets Coin Pocket-B 74
2-W-Pockets Front Pockets-A 75
2-W-Waist Pleat Standard 76
2-W-Waistband-N 77
2-W-Zipper Fly Closure Terminology-A 78
2-W-Zipper Fly Closure Terminology-B 79
4-G-Bead and Sequin 80
4-G-Beltloops-B 81
4-G-Beltloops-D 82
4-G-Button Set Quality Points 83
4-G-Button Setting Method-A 84
4-G-Button Setting Method-B 85
4-G-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 86
4-G-Buttonholes Types and Size 87
4-G-Collar Band Button and buttonhole Placement 88
4-G-Fabric handling 89
4-G-Grainline direction dress and sports Shirt-A 90
4-G-Grainline direction dress and sports Shirt-B 91
4-G-Grainline sweater 92
4-G-Hanger loop coats 93
4-G-Hardware Attachment 94
4-G-Pressing-A 95
4-G-Pressing-B 96
4-G-Pressing-C 97
4-G-Pressing-F 98
4-G-Pressing-G 99
4-G-Spare Button Placement-A 100
4-G-Spare Button Placement-B 101
4-G-Spare Button Placement-C 102
4-G-Spare Button Placement-D 103
4-G-Stitch Per Inch-C 104
4-G-Stitch Per Inch-D 105
4-G-Stitch Per Inch-E 106
4-G-Stitch Per Inch-G 107
4-G-Stitch Terminology 108
4-K-Seam Construction Standards-A 109
4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 110
4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-B 111
4-W-Standard Seam Types 112
FULL ZIP FRONT STYLES

Quality Point

Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side.

Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck seam, neck,
and bottom opening.

Set interlining CF and neck facing.

If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

001
SHOULDER PAD SET STANDARDS
Shoulder Pad Quality
Use approved quality for shoulder pads.
For unlined jackets, shoulder pads must be covered.

Shoulder Pad Setting in Sleeve

Place the pad so that pad extends past the armhole stitch line, follow specific direction from TD.

002
Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge:
3 Needle Bottom Cover stitch at Edge

Binding with 3 needle bottom cover stitch at edge

Binding - inside no turn

3 Needle bottom cover stitch

at edge

003
Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge:
Binding With Single Thread Chain Stitch

Binding with single thread chain stitch

Binding - inside turned under

Single thread chain stitch

004
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
2 Needle Bottom Cover stitch straddling seam

Inset with 2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam

Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle bottom cover stitch

straddling seam

005
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
3 Needle 5 Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam

Inset trim with 3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam

Inset Neck Trim

3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitch

straddling seam

006
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
2 Needle 4-Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam

Inset trim with 2 needle 4 thread cover stitch straddling seam

Inset Neck Trim

2 needle 4 thread
cover stitch straddling
seam

007
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
Single Thread chain Stitch

Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge

Inset Neck Trim

Single thread chain stitch

008
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
Single Thread chain and Back Trim

Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge and trim covering back neck
join seam

Trim covers back neck join seam Inset Neck Trim

Single thread chain stitch

009
V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim
2 Needle Bottom Cover Stitch Straddling Seam

2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam

Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle Bottom cover stitch

straddling seam

Mitered V Neck

010
V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim
3 Needle 5 Thread Cover Stitch Straddling Seam

3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam

Inset Neck Trim

3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitch

straddling seam

Mitered V Neck

011
V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim
2 Needle 4 Thread Cover Stitch Inside Needle on Join Seam

2 needle 4 thread cover stitch inside needle on join seam

Inset Neck Trim

2 Needle 4 Thread cover stitch

inside needle on join seam

Lapped V Neck

012
V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim

Lock stitch at edge

Inset Neck Trim

Lock stitch at edge

Lapped V Neck

013
Necklines - Neck Edge Finish
Requirement for Neck Extended Minimum
12” on the half measure (24” total)

Inside Binding
- Clean finish with designated fabric bias set to inside
- Refer to VCS for binding width

Turn and under stitch to inner binding and close with Single Needle Chain
Stitch Type #401 or if binding is on fold, turn under to inside and single
needle topstich down at designated width

Quality Points
- Neckline edge must be smooth and flat
- Binding must not have roping or be puckered

Inside Binding
#1 #2A Or #2B #3

Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.

014
Necklines - Neck Edge Finish
Requirement for Neck Extended Minimum
12” on the half measure (24” total)

Neck Binding
- 1/4” binding set with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401

Quality Points
- Neckline edge must be smooth and flat
- Binding must not have roping or be puckered

Seam Type BSc

Binding

015
 Neckline Quality Point

Acceptable shaped neckline Unacceptable shaped neckline

016
NECK TYPES

Rib or Self ▪ Set rib trim to body with 4 thread

Trim overlock.
▪
tape.
Flat Knit ▪ Set rib trim to body with 4-thread
Collar overlock
▪
tape.
Self Fabric ▪
Collar w/o
band
Self or ▪
contrast fabric
collar w/ band
▪
XXXXXXXXXXXXX

Hoodie

▪ Set rib trim to body with 4-thread

Rib and Self overlock with or without top stitch.
U

fabric Mock ▪
U

assigned neck tape quality.

017
FRONT PLACKET
Quality Point
▪ Set interlining to top layer of front placket facings.
▪ Set interlining to top layer of under placket facings.
▪ Set all buttonholes should be set vertically.

018
Placket Variation

Standard Polo Add On Plkt Add On Plkt Hidden Zip Exposed

Placket w/ Edge Stitch w/ Box Stitch Front zip Front

019
HANGING POCKET BAG
Quality Point
▪ Made with double layer dye to match self fabric, light weight interlock or tricot material.
▪ Attached to garment with 3 Needle 5 Thread Cover stitch.

020
Bound Neck Edge With Over Lock Seams

Binding with single needle lock stitch at edge and over locked seam

Self fabric binding

Binding - inside
w/single needle lock stitch
3-Thread overlock turned under -
Seam Allowance clean finished
at join seam

021
SHOULDER SEAM
Set clear stabilizing tape to back of shoulder seam.

Clear elastic, l
DTM Twill tape, lllllllllllllllll
lllllllllllllllll
or Self fabric tape

All Knit tops should have clear elastic, DTM twill tape,
or DTM elastic yarn set to the back shoulder seam as
stabilizing tape. Unless it is reglan sleeve, in this case,
the tape is not required. When the stabilizing tape
is used, it should be inserted with over edge stitch
application, so it is hidden.

022
SLEEVE AND BODY CONSTRUCTION
1. Join shoulder seam
2. Join sleeve cap to armhole
3. Close sleeve seam and side seam in 1 operation
4. Turn back sleeve and body hem
Stitch as requests in spec pack construction
Hem should be clean finished at bottom edge
Note: Do NOT turn back hems before step 3.
1.

2.

3.
4.

023
 ARMHOLE SHAPING STANDARDS
▪ This eliminates excess pulling or bunching up at the underarm when wearing.
▪ Add cast off at underarm of sleeve and armhole for all sweaters whenever it is posible.
▪ Set in sleeve - 1/2” cast off. Set in sleeve without cast off @ under arm

▪ Raglan sleeve - 1” cast off.

1/2” cast off @ underarm. Set in sleeve

1” cast off @ underarm - Raglan sleeve

Note:

024
HANGING POCKET BAG STANDARDS
Quality Point
▪ Pocket opening can be made with various stitches
and will be specified in VCS
▪ Make with jersey stitch continuous piece.
▪ Close the both sides of pocket bag by linking.

025
MATCHING PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERNS
Require 100% matching on plaids, stripes and patterns unless otherwise stated
in the specification package.

Matching Standards
Collar Paired and balanced
Collar band Paired and balanced
Cuffs Paired and balanced
Back Yoke Prominent stripe/plaid to be centered vertically or
horizontally
Fronts Left and right fronts to be paired and horizontally matched
Left and right fronts to be vertically paired from center
Pockets Matched horizontally and vertically to the front
Back Prominent stripe/plaid to be centered
Sleeves Paired and balanced

sleeve notch
Front Plackets Prominent stripe/plaid must be centered
Side seams Matched horizontally
For uneven fabric plaid, stripe or pattern repeats, need to follow special
instructions on the VCS.
When selecting matching lines, avoid bright or narrow contrast lines at dart
points.
Note:

026
MATCHING STANDARDS
Cables
Place cables balanced between left and right side of garment, unless otherwise specified
in style specification package. Note: Follow specification package for style specific directions.

Plaids, Stripes, and Patterns

Require 100% matching on plaids, stripes, and patterns unless otherwise stated in
the specification package.

Terminology
Fully Balanced = A center line with pattern repeat in same order left to right AND top to bottom.
Unbalanced Plaid = No center line, but pattern repeats in same order left to right OR top to bottom.
Prominent Stripe = High contrast of color and/or size of pattern.
Balanced = Prominent Stripe is placed at center of garment (center front or center back)
Paired = Vertical and horizontal stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body
(Horizontal and vertical match is mirrored from left part to right part).
Match = Horizontal and/or vertical alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.
Chevron = Pattern alignment forms a V or inverted V at seam and pattern must be mirrored.
Engineered = Pattern is placed at the same location horizontally and /or vertically in each garment.
One way match = horizontal
Two way match = horizontal and vertical
Matching Tolerances
0” for presentation areas: center front

027
NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

V Neck
▪
▪

Double layer neck trim

▪ Also, it needs to be knotted at beginning
and the end of each linking. These knots will later be secured by linking the neck trim to body.
▪

Single layer neck trim

▪

Crew Neck
▪ See VCS for construction details

028
NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

Half Zip Mock

▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side panels must be balanced at neck seam and neck opening.
▪ Set 5/8” wide full needle rib tape inside of garment.
▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

Full Zip Front

▪ Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side.
▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck and bottom opening.
▪ Set 1” wide 5/8” wide full needle rib tape facing.
▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.

Button Front
▪ CF Placket can be made with continuous tape with full needle, rib single layer, or
jersey double layer.
▪ Set buttons at wearer’s right hand side and buttonholes at wearer’s left hand side.
▪ Utilize thread shank for the buttons to prevent curves at edge of CF placket after button.
▪ If buttons are used, buttons will mainly be set in the vertical direction. Exceptions will
be defined in VCS.
▪ Set neckband button and buttonhole so that when buttoned all buttons align

029
SLEEVE AND BOTTOM OPENING STANDARDS
Variations
▪ 1x1, 2x2, 2x3, or 3x3 Single start rib or double layer layer rib.
▪ Jersey tubular or Full needle.
▪ Links and links.

Quality Point
▪ Linked seams must be secured to prevent unravel.

030
SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION
l l l l l l l l l l ll lllllll
Clear elastic llllllllllllllll

All Sweaters should have clear elastic set to the back shoulder seam,
unless the shoulder seam is fully fashioned and set to the back.

Fully Fashioned shoulder seam to back

031
SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

Tubular Neck Trims - Fine Gauge

Cast off shoulder seam and link together, stabilize with DTM Nylon Taping.
Tubular Neck Trims: catch end
Fold under 1/4” or less of of DTM Nylon Taping inside
DTM Nylon Taping at end and tubular when linking neck trim
tack down along armhole (fine and chunky gauges)
seam

Non-Tubular Neck Trims - Fine and Chunky Gauge

Non-Tubular neck trims:

fold under 1/4” or less of
Fold under 1/4” or less of
DTM Nylon Taping at end
DTM Nylon Taping at end and
and tack down along neck
tack down along armhole
trim seam. (fine and
seam
chunky gauges)

032
Back Lining for 3/8 lined jackets

033
BACK VENT LINING CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS
The lining is seamed along the vent edge on the outside extension. The seam
allowance is understitched along the edge of the vent, but not across the top of the vent.

We do not accept mitered corners on vents.

Vent facings should be 1 1/2” + 1/2” seam allowance.

2”
24L button

1 1/2”
SN/L,
5/16” margin

8 1/2

034
SETTING COLLAR
Collar Setting
We expect that the collar be “barrel” set to the body. The top collar is set to the front facing
and back lining and the under collar is set to the body. The neckline seams are “busted”
(pressed open) and the seam allowances are basted together. Stop the collar basting 1”
from the collar notch.
Under Stitch
After forming the collar and lapel, we expect that the seams along the edges will be
under stitched to keep the under collar and lapel from rolling out. The under stitch can be
replaced by an under press operation depending on fabric. When edges are top stitched,
no under stitch is required.
Under Pressing
We expect that collars and lapels be under pressed before continuing to next operation.
Please avoid over pressing. Do not create seam impressions and “shine” on the collar
and lapel edges.

1” 1”

035
 COLLAR STANDARDS
▪ Collar and collar band operations must be single needle lockstitch, ISO# 301.
▪ Collar band must be squared to front edge to avoid gapping between neck seam and
the 1st body button.
▪ Collar and collar band must be clean finished.

Quality Points
▪ The collar points need to be turned carefully.
▪ No visible holes on the corner points.
▪ Corner points are well turned and shaped to form a sharp corner or smooth curve.
▪ Collar and collar bands must be even and symmetrical.

Collar Stay Pocket Requirements

▪ Collar stay pocket needs to be angled according to collar stay length.
▪ Edge of collar stay pocket is folded for clean finish.
▪ Collar stay pocket is formed with single needle lockstitch type, ISO #301.

Construction
Collar Band Collar Stay Pocket

et
ock Angle pocket

a yP according to
St
collar stay length.
1/16” SN/L Edgestitch
Fold

3/16” SN/L Stay Stitch 1/16” SN/L Edgestitch

036
CUFF AND SLEEVE PLACKET STANDARDS

Quality Points
▪ Cuff edge to sleeve placket edge must be even.
▪ On square cuff, the corners need to be turned carefully, so there are no holes in the
corners, and the points are well turned.
▪ Cuffs must be even and symmetrical.

Terminology
BC = Barrel Cuff
FC = French Cuff
MC = Mitered Cuff
Adj = Adjustable Cuff

037
Front Lining
Lining patterns should have extra ease build in over the bust.
Ease should be minimal and not create pleats in lining.

038
BOTTOM HEM STANDARDS
▪ Hem must be clean finished with double turn folder or guide & Single Needle Lockstitch Type #301.
▪ Stitch through hem must have back tack of 3 Stitches, tolerance +/-1.

Quality points
▪ No tuck, pleats or roping.

039
INTERLINING ON COLLAR AND BAND
COLLAR
Apply interlining to outer collar in direction of grain.
Apply bias interlining to under collar.
Once the band and collar have been joined, apply stabilizer to the collar band
at the neck seam.
Block fusing is also acceptable.

Interlining
Angle of Line
Represents
Grainline
of Interlining
Outer Collar and Band

Shell

Under Collar and Band

040
Body Pieces: Layer 1
Interlining: Fully Lined Jackets: Fusing

The front panel should be fully interlined.

The Princess, side panels and back are interlined for 2” at the armhole and hem.
Upper Back can be stabilized in either of the 2 options:
A. Fused Panel
B. Lapped Percaline
FUSIBLE
INTERLINING
Exceptions to be confirmed by TD
▪Loosely woven fabrics
▪Fabric with long floats
1. Full front
2. Under arm
▪Light weight Front
2”
Back
3. Bottom hem
4. Upper back (2 options)
▪Light color A. Fused panel
B. Non fused lapped
Percaline

Side
Pan

OVERLAP PERCALINE
2” AT CENTER BACK
TO ADD “GIVE”

Front

2”

2”
OPTION 2 METHOD
PERCALINE AT BACK

041
INTERLINING STANDARDS
Please follow Bill of Materials needed for interlining Quality.

Woven Fusible
The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending
garment for approval.
▪Bond strength
▪Show through
▪Hand feel
▪Dimensional stability
▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instruction
If you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make
recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.
All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.
When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the
best results.
▪Verify heat setting on fusing machine at least twice a day.

Woven Non - Fusible

The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending
garment for approval.
▪Hand feel
▪Dimensional stability
▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instruction
If you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make
recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.
All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.
When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the
best results.

042
 Dart Construction
The dart stitch should follow the edge of the dart fold for 1” from the end. See
Diagram 1a. Diagram 1b is NOT acceptable.
On thicker fabrics, stitch a piece of self fabric into the dart seam to help balance
the thickness. See Diagram 2.
Knot off the ends by hand or leave 3/4” of thread chained off from machine.
See Diagram 4.

Do not clip the dart open to the very tip. This weakens the seam and can create
a hole. See Diagram 3.
DIAGRAM: 4
DIAGRAMS: DIAGRAM: DIAGRAM: ACCEPTABLE METHODS FOR
1a. 1b. 2 3 SEWING OFF DART ENDS

1” 1”

KNOTTED END CHAINED END

1” 1”

043
LAPEL - Forming Lapel and Collar
Lapel
In order for the front facing to roll and lay correctly, make the following adjustments to
the pattern
1. Make the lapel point longer and wider by 1/8” - 1/4”
2. Shorten facing by 1/8” - 3/16” at hemline
3. Make 1/16” - 1/8” narrower beginning at hemline. Blending to 0” at breakpoint
Collar
The collar points should roll toward the body. Under collar is smaller then upper collar
to have small roll.
Ease may need to be adjusted depending on fabric thickness and jacket style.
*Steam set the lapel and use slight pressure with hand iron to set the lapel breakpoint.

Facing to be longer
and wider than body
at top of lapel

Under collar to be
shorter and narrower than the top collar

Front
Facing to be shorter
and narrower than
body at bottom edge

044
BASTING PEAK LAPEL STANDARDS
On a peak lapel, the lapel and collar must be basted so that they do not separate when
wearing.
Make an invisible basting stitch from the join of lapel and collar to 3/8” from edge to collar.

3/8”

The front collar edge to fold over

onto the undercollar to give a clean
appearance.

Fold over collar edge

045
LINING CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS
1. All lining construction seams should be the same width as the shell. Lining seams do not have to be
pressed open.
2. Form a pleat in the center back of the jacket lining 1” deep.
NON stretch lining should be 1 size larger than shell in girth.
Chainstitch is acceptable for lining construction only.

PLEAT OPENS
4” 4” BELOW FACING
NECK LINE
2”
SEAM OR 2”
BELOW FACING
SEAM

Shell

Lining

1/2”
WAISTLINE

1/2” Seam Allowance

1/2” Seam Allowance

1 1/2“ Total Hem depth 1/2” Shell showing

HEM FINISH STANDARDS

Lined Jackets without Topstitching
Form a 1/2“ pleat at the bottom of the jacket lining. The lining should join to the front facing to form a
continuous pleat that grows from nothing to 1/2“ at the facing join.

Lined Jackets with Topstitching: As diagramed below.

Unlined Jackets
Unlined jackets need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine, depending on fabric) under binding.
Hand tack at facing edge at allowance.

046
Matching Standards
Placement Sketch JWN Signature Dress & Sport Shirts Young Mens
Top Collar CB
v
Paired (vertically & Paired (vertically & Paired (vertically &
horizontally) horizontally) horizontally)

Under Collar CB
v
Match to top Paired (horizontally)
collar (vertically &
horizontally)
Fronts & CF Balanced & Match Balanced & Match Match (vertically &
Placket (vertically & (vertically & horizontally)
horizontally) horizontally)

Fronts - Bias Paired (Chevron) Paired (Chevron)

Pockets Match (vertically & Match (vertically & Match (vertically &
horizontally) horizontally) horizontally)
CB
v

Back Balanced (vertically) Balanced (vertically)

Back Yoke CB
v Match at CB to top Match to CB collar
collar, under collar, (vertically)
outer & inner collar
band (vertically)
Split Back CB
v Paired - Chevron Paired - Chevron Paired - Chevron
Yoke (Center (Inverted V Chevron) (Inverted V Chevron)
Back Seam)

Sleeves Back Front Back Paired (vertically) & Paired (vertically) & Paired (vertically &
Match (horizontally) Match (horizontally) horizontally)

Sleeve Top Match to Sleeve Paired (vertically &

Placket (vertically & horizontally)
horizontally)
Cuffs - Outer Paired (vertically) & Paired (vertically) & Paired (vertically) &
Match (horizontally) Match (horizontally) Match (horizontally)

Cuffs - Inside INNER CUFF Match to outer Paired (horizontally)

cuff (vertically &
horizontally)
OUTER CUFF

047
MATCHING STANDARDS FOR PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERNS

Terminology
Fully Balanced Plaid = A center line with pattern repeat in same order left to right AND top to bottom.
Unbalanced Plaid = No center line, but pattern repeats in same order left to right OR top to bottom.
Prominent Stripe = High contrast of color and/or size of pattern.
Balanced = Prominent Stripe is placed at center of garment (center front or center back)
Paired = Vertical and horizontal stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body (Horizontal
and vertical match is mirrored from left part to right part).
Match = Horizontal and/or vertical alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.
Chevron = Pattern alignment forms a V or inverted V at seam and pattern must be mirrored.
Engineered = Pattern is placed at the same location horizontally and/or vertically in each garment.
One way match = horizontal
Two way match = horizontal and vertical
Continuous Front or Back = Prominent stripe of the plaid is the top center front or center back.
▪ Use same top center line for center front placket and for center back (except Rack and Young Men’s)
▪ Use same top center line for center of collar (horizontal stripe for Transcript and Young Men’s).

Matching Tolerances
Woven Shirts
0” for presentation areas: center front, pocket and split yoke
1/16” for non-presentation areas: yoke to top collar and collar band

Smart Care Woven Shirts

1/16” for presentation areas: CF, pocket and split yoke
1/8” for non-presentation areas: Back yoke to top collar and collar band

048
PLACKET STANDARDS

Front edge must be clean finished with SN/L Type #301.

Placket and/or facing edge must be clean finished.

French Placket Reversed French Placket Set-on Placket

Top Placket:
Set w/ 2N/Chain
Top placket:
double sided
double turn to
folder
face with
Top Placket: topstitching
Double Turn,
No Topstitching

Bottom Placket:
Bottom Placket: Double Turn w/ Bottom Placket:
Double Turn w/ SN/L Double Turn w/
SN/L SN/L

049
Inside Pockets - Leather Jacket

5 1/2”

INSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET

5 1/2”

2”

INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKET

050
INSIDE OF POCKET FLAPS AND EPAULETTES
Insides of pockets should be sewn with 1/4” seams trimmed to 1/8” at corners.

On straight seams, stepped trimming is ideal.

Pocket flaps are self lined, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.

1/4” 1/4”

1/8”

1/4”

STEPPED TRIMMING IS IDEAL

051
Inside Pockets

INSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKET

RIGHT LEFT
ARMHOLE ARMHOLE

BEASOM
(BREAST POCKET)
AND TICKET
POCKET
LABEL ARE OF
LINING FABRIC
AND SHOULD BE
ON THE SAME
LEVEL.

POCKET
IS OF
LABEL LINING FABRIC

= Self fabric / Facing = Lining Fabric

052
Inside Pockets

INSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKET

ARMHOLE ARMHOLE

Self fabric Self fabric

14”

LINING
8”

10”
LINING LINING

Self fabric

053
PATCH POCKETS

Invisible stitch patch pockets should be reinforced at the top corners only if
requested.

054
WELT POCKETS
Welt pockets should be loosely basted closed with a basting stitch, leave 1/2” open
at each end.

Single Welt pockets are to be tacked on both ends with an “invisible stitch” unless
otherwise specified.
INVISIBLE STITCH STANDARD

(STITCH IN THE DITCH)

TOP STITCH ONLY
WHEN SPECIFIED

1/2”

1/2”
BASTING STITCH
LEAVE 1/2” FREE AT
BOTH ENDS

G RAIN

Angle Welt Pockets

055
SEAM BINDING IN UNLINED JACKET STANDARDS
For unlined jackets, all body construction seams and hems must be bound with a double-fold binding.
Bust open all seams except for ones that will be topstitched.
Armholes to be bound with both seam allowance sewn together.
In front lined jackets, the side seam needs to be pressed open. Front seam allowance pressed towards front. Back
and sleeve seams to be bound as shown below.
Binding fabric for seam binding will be called out in the BOM.

Double—fold binding

Single Fold Binding: Do Not Use

056
SLEEVE LINING JOIN AT HEM
Sleeve Linings
Form a 1/2” pleat at the bottom of the sleeve lining.

Unlined Jackets
Unlined sleeves need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine depending on
fabric) under the binding. Then hand tack at seam allowance.

BACK SLEEVE
SEAM JOIN,
SHELL TO
LINING

PLEAT DEPTH INSIDE

INSIDE
VIEW VIEW

FROM FOLD
OF LINING
TO HEM LINE
OF SHELL SHELL SHELL

LINING LINING

1/2”
Total
1/2” Hem
1 1/2”
1/2”

INSIDE SLEEVE HEM DETAIL

057
Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and Fusing
If an Automated sleeve setting machine is not available, cap must be preshirred with
1-2 rows of single needle basting or chain stitching. Do not use automated shirring.
Shirring must be evenly distributed around the sleeve cap, but should not extend below
the arm hole notches.

Sleeve must be set using a lock stitch.

Armhole seam allowance must be clipped at 2” from shoulder point front and back after
sewing. Press open the seam allowance at the top of the sleeve cap.

Sleeves need to look the same from left to right.

The sleeve head should be a single piece, long enough to fit between the sleeve cap
notches. The sleeve head should sit slightly to the back of the sleeve. Based on fabrication
it is acceptable to recommend playful headers or self fabric folded bias as the sleeve head.

INTERLINING

SLEEVE HEADER

FOLD LINE

058
Sleeve Vent Construction
Construction should be alterable and not mitered.
For light weight fabrics, roll the seam allowance towards the vent, starting 3” above
the vent.
For heavy weight fabrics, clip the seam allowance and press the seam open all the
way to the top of the vent.
INSIDE VIEW - VENT DOWN

LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS HEAVY WEIGHT FABRICS

INSIDE VIEW - VENT

FOLDED UP TO SHOW
CONSTRUCTION

059
SMART CARE TAPING STANDARDS
Taped seams are indicated with grey shading in the below images.
Tape must be applied in sewing and be invisible to the customer.

Full Taping

CF UNDER FRONT BACK UNDER ARM SEAM SLEEVE PLACKET SEAM

PLACKET

Partial Taping

FRONT BACK UNDER ARM SEAM SLEEVE PLACKET SEAM

060
STANDARD SEAMING—SHELL AND LINING
Body Construction Seams
All body construction seams, small parts and darts and lining should be sewn
on single needle lock stitch machines. Chain stitch is not acceptable. Body
construction seams are normally pressed open except when top stitched. We
do not accept clipping of seam allowance.
Seams that are covered by the lining can remain raw unless the fabric is a
loose weave and need to be over locked to keep from fraying. If the bottom of
the lining is left open for any reason, the seam allowances of the body have to
be over locked.

STANDARD SEAMING—SHELL ONLY

Body Construction Seams Imperial Measure
Min Max
Body Construction* 3/8” 1/2”
Princess Seam 3/8 3/8”
Collar Set 1/4” 3/8”
Armhole 1/4” 3/8”
Small Parts** 1/4” 1/4”
Shoulder 3/8” 1/2”
Neckline 1/4” 3/8”
Foldback on Hems 1 5/8” 1 3/4”
Note: *Shell and lining. In cases where a style has a wider topstitching, the
seam allowance is 1/8” wider than the topstitching.
Note: **Clip corners, but trim curve to 1/8”, step trim straight seams.

061
BODY PIECES: LAYER 2
Lapel and Shoulder Taping
We have found that fusible tapes are more stable and easier to apply than
traditional sew in tapes. We prefer non-woven as they add less bulk at the
seams when pressed and are more stable. We will accept other methods of
taping if the result is neither stretched nor bunched.

Front
The lapel and center front edge should be taped, ending at breakpoint. If the
CF hem edge is curved, add taping to stabilize.

Bridle Tape
Bridle tape is not necessary for all jackets. If it is used, fusible tape is
recommended. Set bridle tape with tension to hold break line to body.

Shoulder
The tape should be applied to the back shoulder before closing the shoulder
seam. The ease should be pressed away after seaming.

Front Back
FUSIBLE INTERLINING
CHEST PIECE
FUSIBLE TAPING

Side
Pan

2”

062
BODY PIECES: LAYER 2

Chest Piece And Taping

1. Chest piece: non fusible,
set over fused panel
2. Roll Line: fusible tape
3. Lapel edge: fusible tape
Front 4. Front edge hem when
2”
curved: Fusible taping
5. Armhole: fusible tape

2”

Armhole Taping
Apply armhole taping in single continous piece with the body seams joined and
shoulder seams open (see note below).

BACK

FRONT

Note: The only exception is for Hong Kong and China OPA product. Taping

063
TUX STANDARDS
Tux - Bib Tux - 4 Button String
Bib Variation includes plain and pin tuck. 4 BUTTON STRING

3-1/2”

Tux - Pleated
Pleat Depth = 1/2”

3-1/2”

Note: 4 button string used for Bib, All-Over and Pleated Tuxes.

064
Unlined Jackets
Unlined sleeves need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine depending on fabric) with the
binding. Then hand tack at seam allowance.

065
Woven Yokes
▪ Inner and outer yoke clean finish body panel.
▪ Close with SN/Lock and topstitch with SN/Lock if required.
▪ Prestitch pleat before setting yoke.

066
KNIT BOTTOM

Front Rise

▪ 2N 4 Thread Overedge
▪ Clear Stabilizing Tape along
seam

Inside View
Back Rise

▪ 2N 4 Thread Overedge
▪ Clear Stabilizing Tape along
seam

Inside View

067
ALTERABLE CENTER BACK STANDARDS
▪ The seam allowance for alterable waistbands are:
1” at CB seam for Tailored Clothing
3/4” for Sportswear Smartcare
1 1/2” for non-Smartcare
▪ Stitch CB seam after waistband is set. This must be a continuous seam from top of
waistband seam.
▪ Press center back seam open before stitching down waistband.
SPLIT CENTER BACK WAISTBAND
AND BACK RISE SEAM ALLOWANCE
OUTER SHELL WB
ROLLOVER 1/16”
TOWARD INSIDE
3/4“

CB WAISTBAND INSIDE SEAM ALLOWANCE

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

BIAS BINDING
TAPED W/ LINING
CENTER BACK SEAM

CROTCH SEAM IS STITCHED AFTER WAISTBAND SET.

CONTINUOUS OPERATION FROM TOP OF WAISTBAND
THRU CROTCH POINT.
zzzzzz zz

OVERLOCK 1/8”
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

OVERLOCK
SEAM ALLOWANCE BLEND TO 1/2“ AT RISE CURVE

1/2” INSIDE WAISTBAND

zzzzzz

SEAM ALLOWANCE
PRESS OPEN

FOLD DOWN CORNERS

PRESS CB SEAM OPEN INSIDE

BEFORE STITCHING DOWN WAISTBAND
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

WAISTBAND

CENTER BACK
SEAM

WAIST SEAM

068
Body Join Seams
Location John W. Nordstrom , Nordstrom & 1901 Transcript

Front Rise Tandem Double Needle Chain Stitch Busted 5 Thread Safety Join seam

edge and a bartack at crotch / inseam join.

Back Rise Tandem Double Needle Chain Stitch Busted 5 Thread Safety Join seam

edge.
Inseam Clean set, Single Needle Lock Stitch Busted 5 Thread Safety Join seam

edge.
Outseam Clean set, Single Needle Chain Stitch Busted 5 Thread Safety Join seam

edge. Reinforce seam at pocket opening with

backtack.
Hem
blind hem. Needle top stitch

Bottom.

069
CROTCH PIECE STANDARDS
Tailored Clothing
Form a single layer pocketing patch finished with self binding.
Placed over the crotch point.
Tack on each side to inseam or rise seam allowance.
Front

Curved Center Seam to follow

6” Length x 4 3/4” width
the shape of the crotch

Flat Shape
Curved Center Seam to follow the shape of the crotch

Back

Back Front

Sportswear
Set a strip of bias cut pocketing over the seam allowance from
bottom of fly facing to 1 1/2” from crotch point.
The strip should be a separate piece from fly facing and be clean finished.

070
LINING STANDARDS
Tailored Clothing
▪ Front panel only lined to 2” below the knee notch on pattern for all fabrications except light colored fabrics,
▪ See Production Spec Pack for details on light colored fabric.
▪ Set lining with body fabric at side seams and inseam. XXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXX

XXXX
XXXXXX XXXXXX
XXXXXXX X
XXXXXXXX
XXXXXXX

XX XXX
X XX
XXXXXXX

▪ Cut lining so that bottom edge is on selvage edge.

Sportswear
▪ Only Wool, Wool blend, Linen, and Linen blend
dress Pant need to be lined to knee.

071
Back Pockets
Terminology

Single Welt Pocket Double Welt Pocket

Single welt pocket with opening at top. Double welt pocket with even welt widths.

On occasion, double layers of single welt is On occasion, a welt with 1/3 and 2/3 width is
callout with pocket opening at bottom. called out.

072
Back Pocket Setting into Waistband
Tailored Clothing
▪ Pocket bag bottom should be a folded edge
to minimize bulge.
▪ A light weight interlining should be used
around welt pocket inside of garment for
UPPER WAIST CURTAIN
Sportswear
▪ Pocket facing needs to be fold in with single
top stitch clean finish.
▪Sometimes pocket bag require binding. Follow
spec packs for style specific directions.

LOWER WAIST CURTAIN

POCKETING

INSIDE LINING

073
Coin Pockets
Inside of left front pocket bag Inside waistband
INSIDE OF RIGHT FRONT(WEARING)
POCKET BAG Clean Finish hem
3/8” margin
Set coin pocket on side of FOLD
panel closer to body.
3 1/4”
3 1/4“
Tack bottom of

3 1/2”
1/2” HEM
1 1/4“ coin pocket to
regular pocket
INSIDE COIN bag.
3“ POCKET

INSIDE
WEARER’S RIGHT
BODY
2 1/2“

Note: This does not apply to tailored clothing.

074
POCKET STANDARDS
Front Pockets
Outside View
Onseam Angle Inside View
Pocket Pocket CF

3”

XXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXX

XXXX
XXXXXXX XXXXXX
XXXXXXX XXXXXX
XXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXX
X

XXXXX
XXXX
XXXX

BUSTED
SIDE SEAMS

INSIDE INSIDE
Quality Points
WEARER’S LEFT WEARER’S RIGHT CF

▪ A reverse stitch or back tack needs to be applied to inside of garment at side seam for
re-inforcement at top and botton of pocket opening. The stitch needs to be 1” long.
▪ Bartacks are required to be placed at top and bottom of pocket opening for
re-inforcement.
▪ Body fabric facing is required at both side of pocket opening to prevent the
pocket bag from exposed at face side of garment.

075
FRONT PLEAT STANDARDS
Terminology
Men’s tailored clothing have either one, two or no pleats at front (flat front). Both pleats
open toward the side seam.
In addition to two pleats opening toward the side seam, Men’s Sportswear also has a varia-
tion in which the pleats are box pleats.

Box Pleat Double Pleat

PLEAT SEWN 1/2” DOWN

FROM THE W/B ON INSIDE
OF GARMENT.

5/8“ PLEAT
DEPTH

1-1/2“ PLEAT
DEPTH

Single Pleat

PLEAT SEWN 1/2” DOWN

FROM THE W/B ON INSIDE
OF GARMENT.

1“ PLEAT
DEPTH

076
WAISTBAND STANDARDS
- All waistbands for Men’s brands product should be set with single needle lock stitch machinery.
- For dresswear, we do not accept waistbands set in one operation on folder equipment.
- Denim jeans with straight waistband may be set with a folder machine.
- Waistbands can be cut and fused in blocks, then trimmed and notched.
- Young Men’s waistbands are style specific. See production spec packs for details.
Waistband Finish Terminology

Dressmake Waistband Two-piece Waistband

▪ Waistbands in Men’s Tailored Pants are made with ▪ A two-piece waistband is used for most
sportswear.
polyester lining piping, and heavy interlining.
▪ Tack waistband lower curtain down at
approximately 12 points in inconspicuous areas,
such as pocketing or seams.

Piping
Inside
Upper Waistband

g
in
Curtain
nd
Bi Self fabric
Lower Curtain

Interlining Waistband Waistband

One-piece Waistband

▪ A one-piece waistband is used in some sportswear.

g
in
nd
Bi

Waistband

077
Front Closure Terminology
Tailored Clothing
The tab closures can be pointed or squared depending on the styling of the garment.

Bullnose Fly Closure

U

XXXXXX XXXX
XXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX
XXXX

XXXXXXX XXXXXXX
XXXX
X XXX XXXXX
X
XXXXXXXX
XXXXXX
X
XXXXX

XXX
XXXXX
X

XXXXX
XXXX
XXXXXX XXXX
XXXXXXX
X XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXX XXXXXXX
XXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXX

XXXX

Sportswear
The tab closures can be pointed or rounded depending on the styling of the garment for
Type One.
Bullnose Fly Closure Tab Closure Type Two
Insdie View

2 1/4”
Outside View

3-1/4”
2 1/2” 1/2”

078
 Insdie View
Outside View Straight Closure with One Buttons Straight Closure with Two Buttons

Tab Closure Type One Tab Closure Type Two

Insdie View

Cut on bias Cut on bias

Cut on bias
Cut on bias Cut on bias

Cut on bias Cut on bias

3” 2”
Outside View

3” 2”

079
Bead and Sequin Sewing Specifications
- Tie off on every sixth bead or sequin.

080
BELTLOOP STANDARDS

Beltloop Placement
6 Beltloops 8 Beltloops
▪ Men’s Tailored: Placement for sizes 30-33 ▪ Men’s Tailored: Placement for sizes 34-46
▪ Sportswear: Placement for sizes 28-36 ▪ Sportswear: Placement for sizes 38-48

#1 #2 #3 #1 #2 #3 #4 2” from
2” from
CENTER FRONT

center

CENTER FRONT
center back
back

081
BELTLOOP STANDARDS

Beltloop Formation
Tailored Clothing and Sportswear Smartcare and Denim
▪ Fold raw edges to inside of loop ▪ Form with beltloop folder
▪ Finish with blind stitch ▪ 2N cover bottom

Beltloop Setting
Tailored Clothing and Sportswear Smartcare and Denim
▪ Tack belt loop down at 1/4”—3/8” from ▪ Tack belt loop down at 1/4”—3/8” from
waistband seam waistband seam

082
Quality Points
▪ Buttons set on wearers right side
▪ Buttons set center line unless otherwise specified on spec pack
▪ Mark button position after making button holes

Button Setting
Terminology

2 Hole - Parallel Stitch 3 Hole - Triangle 4 Hole - Parallel 4 Hole - X-Stitch

Machine Set Button

▪ NPG requires Lockstitch button sew Type #304.
▪ Thread must be trimed at inside of garment.

Hand Set Button

▪ Must be set with double strand thread.
▪ Thread must be trimed at inside of garment.

083
BUTTON SET
Button
Machine Set Button
2 Hole ▪ NPG requires Lock Stitch button sew Type #304

Button Sew Thread (POV)

▪ Use Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specified on VCS
4 Hole ▪ 4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per hole)
Parallel
▪ 2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)
▪ Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open
Pinch tuck catching top layer only

Hand Set Button

▪ Must be set with double strand thread
▪ Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open
Pinch tuck catching top layer only

Button Sew Thread

▪ Use Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specificed
▪ 4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per
Parallel
▪ 2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)
▪ Knotting must be secured and hidden

084
BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLE STANDARDS

Button Setting Method

We prefer buttons to be set with lock stitch machines and finely finished on
underside. If only chain stitch machines are available, please be sure the
cycle is correct so that the last stroke locks the chain on the inside of the
garment.
We do not set buttons with an “X” stitch. We make two horizontal stitches
on a lock-stitch machine.

Shanks (Wrapping)
The length of the thread shank should be determined by the thickness
of the fabric. The button should hold the garment closed without distort-
ing the buttonhole.
Buttons with shanks should not be wrapped.

Thread
Match the thread color to the button unless otherwise stated in the spec
pack. Use Perma Cored or equivalent Tex 40 button sewing thread for
buttons. Do not use thread designed for single needle or over lock
machines.
Note: For inside buttons and hook & bar, fuse fabric to add strength if
needed.

085
BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION
Buttonhole Type
▪ Must be Lock Stitch Type #304

Buttonhole Length
Straight
▪ Inside length to equal button diameter
▪ Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons
Keyhole
Buttonhole Thread
▪ Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified

Button Thread Color

▪ Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM

Button Position
▪ Must be vertical, unless otherwise specified

FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE

AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE

ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1ST

AND LAST SHOULD BE
CENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE

LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT

BOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE

086
BUTTONHOLES
The buttonhole should be clean. Loose or fraying threads are not acceptable.
Buttonhole should not stretch out the fabric or cause damage to the weave.

Loosely woven fabrics, refer to Number 3.

Leather and suede garments must have bound buttonhole, unless otherwise
stated on the VCS.

1. Keyhole Buttonholes

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvv
VVV
VVV

vvvv
vv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

2. Bound Buttonhole

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
VVV

VVV
VVV

VVV

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

3. For Loosely Woven Fabric - edge stitch is added to prevent fraying

1/16” apart

Note: Buttonholes on sleeve should be non-functional, unless otherwise stated on

the VCS.

087
Collar Band Button and Buttonhole Placement

Button is placed 1/8” off

center to maintain collar band
length and to keep placket
Button hole is placed 1/8”
aligned top to bottom.
off center front line.
CF CF

088
FABRIC HANDLING
Fabric Inspection
NPG requires The 4-Point System and Fabric Sampling Plan.
Refer to the Fabric Inspection Guidelines link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.
Flaws/Defects
Production Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.
▪ Please contact NPG Production Developer
▪ Production Planner may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision
Minimum of 1 yard full width
Spreading and Cutting
NPG does not accept Drill Holes.
Refer to the Process Inspection link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.
Shading
Fabric must be shade sorted.
All cut parts must be identified with an appropriate numbering system.
▪ If adhesive stickers, paper tags or chalk is used for numbering cut parts, they must be
removed before pressing
If there are Shading issues:
▪ Please contact NPG Product Developer
▪ Product developer may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision
Minimum of 1/4 yard full width
Production Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.
Note: Follow Visual Construction Sheet (VCS) for style specific directions
Cut Direction
Napped fabrics: 1 way, nap up
Non-napped fabrics: 2 way
Directional fabrics: 1 way
Cut Direction - Kids
Napped fabrics: Nap down unless otherwise specified in teck pack
Non-napped fabrics: 2 way
Directional fabrics: 1 way
089
GRAIN LINE STANDARDS
These standards should be followed for all woven shirts, unless otherwise stated on the spec
pack details or construction sketch for style specific directions.

Dress Shirt Grainlines

Used for patterns or solid fabrications.

Sport Shirt Grainlines

Used for shirts without split back yoke or with Twill fabrications with split back yoke.

090
GRAIN LINE STANDARDS
These standards should be followed for all woven shirts, unless otherwise stated on the spec
pack details or construction sketch for style specific directions.

Piece Standard
Collar/Under Collar Cross grain
Collar band Cross grain
Cuffs Cross grain
Back Yoke Cross grain
Split Back Yoke Shoulder seam is grainline forming Chevron
Body Straight grain
Pockets Straight grain
Sleeves Straight grain
Front Plackets Straight grain
Sleeve Placket Straight grain or bias

091
KNIT DIRECTION
For all solid fabrications, body, sleeve and inside panels are cut on straight of grain.
These standards should be followed for all knit tops, unless otherwise stated on the
VCS for style specific directions.

092
HANGER LOOP SETTING STANDARDS
Coats
Hanger loops are required in all coats. The loop should be made from lining. It can be 3/16
-1/4” wide. Set hanger loop over CB seam so that when the loop is laying flat, it is 2” in length.

CB
2”

Closed 1.5-2”
from neck
seam line

Center Back pleat

in lined products
only 1” deep

093
HARDWARE ATTACHMENT
For Snaps( 4-Part and Prong), Rivets, and Jeans Buttons
▪
▪
▪
▪
▪

▪
▪

094
PRESSING

▪ Interlining must be applied as per Supplier specification

▫ Must test heat setting at least twice a day at fusing operation and
presses
▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting
▪ Inline pressing completed as required per operation
▪ Finished product pressing must meet following quality points:
▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling
▫ Pressure setting on presses must be checked twice a day
▫ Sleeve must not be creased on top sleeve line
▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable
▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable
▫ Over pressing not acceptable
▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable

Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.

095
PRESSING - ALL MEN’S EXCEPT WOVEN TOPS
▪ Interlining must be applied as per Supplier specification
▫ Must test heat setting at least twice a day at fusing operation and presses
▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting
▪ Inline pressing completed as required per operation
▪ Finished product pressing must meet following quality points:
▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling
▫ Pressure setting on presses must be checked twice a day
▫ Sleeve must not be creased on top sleeve line
▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable
▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable
▫ Over pressing not acceptable
▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable

Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.

PRESSING - MEN’S WOVEN TOPS

▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting.
▪ Finish product pressing completed to meet following quality points.
▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling.
▫ Heat settings on presses must be checked twice a day.
▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable.
▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable.
▫ Over pressing not acceptable.
▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable.
Pressing variations will be called out in specification packages as needed.

Back Pleats
The back yoke pleats should be pressed to the armhole drop.

Wrinkle-Free Shirts
Ensure that the center crease on the sleeve, the sleeve pleats and the back yoke pleats are
well pressed.

096
PRESSING - DARTS

We expect that all body seams, darts and small parts be under pressed. Avoid over
pressing.
A straight seam can be pressed on a flat board. If it has a curve, it should be
pressed on a curved board so that the silhouette is maintained.
Darts should be pressed with the end over the curve of a board to prevent a bubble.
Press a dart from the widest part (usually the waist) towards the end

097
Leg Crease
▪
▪ Crease runs from the inner fold of 1st pleat to the bottom of the pant for double pleat pants.

098
PRESSING STANDARDS
▪
▪
▪
▪
▪

099
SPARE BUTTON PLACEMENT STANDARDS
Sportswear / Rail
EXTRA BUTTON PLACEMENT

Inside
Wearer’s right

1/2”

Extra Button:
Placed at pocket bag
seam.

Clothing

1/4” BUTTON
EXTRA TROUSER
SPACING
BUTTON

John W. Nordstrom Signature, John W. Nordstrom & Calibrate

▪ Place spare button inside a 5cm (W) X 7cm (H) poly bag.
▪ Insert bag inside wearer’s left interior chest pocket.

100
Spare Button Placement
JWN Signature Dress JWN Dress Shirts
▪ 1 extra button for larger button ligne. ▪ 1 extra button for larger button ligne.
▪ 1 extra button for smaller button ligne. ▪ 1 extra button for medium button ligne.
▪ Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket. ▪ 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.
▪ Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.
OUTSIDE OUTSIDE
RIGHT FRONT PLACKET RIGHT FRONT PLACKET

LABEL
CARE
18L
1/2”
14L
1/4”
LABEL
CARE

18L
1/2”
16L
1/2”
14L
1/2”
HEM HEM

101
Spare Button Placement
Nordstrom Dress Shirts
▪ 1 extra button for larger button ligne.
▪ 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.
▪ Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.
Calibrate, 1901, Rack and 14th & Union
Dress Shirts
▪ 1 extra button for larger button ligne.
▪ 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.
▪ Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.

OUTSIDE
RIGHT FRONT PLACKET
OUTSIDE
RIGHT FRONT PLACKET
LABEL
CARE

3/4”
16L
1/2”
14L
1”
3/4
HEM
HEM

102
 Spare Button Placement
Broletto Dress Shirts Sport Shirts, Rail, and Rack
▪ 1 extra button for larger button ligne. ▪ 1 extra button for larger button ligne.
▪ 1 extra button for medium button ligne. ▪ 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.
▪ 1 extra button for smaller button ligne. ▪ Sew extra buttons to blank white label.
▪ Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.
OUTSIDE
RIGHT FRONT PLACKET
CARE LABEL

ID LABEL

BLANK LABEL

4” ABOVE HEM
18L
1/2”
16L
1/2”
14L
1/2”
HEM
INSIDE LEFT SIDE SEAM

103
KNIT PRODUCT
THREADS AND STITCHES PER INCH REQUIREMENTS

▪ Preferred suppliers are A & E and Coats

▪ For seam join use Texturized Polyester
▪ For top stitching use Spun Polyester

Stitch Per Inch Guideline

Location SPI
Internal 12 +/- 1
Stitching
Topstitch 12 +/- 1
Button Sew 18 (“X” B/Tk) lockstitch
Button hole 24 +/- 1 (B/Tk)
Note:
decorative stitching.
Young Men’s stitch per inch is style specific. See production spec packs for details.

104
STITCHING STANDARDS
Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard
John W.Nordstrom, JWN Signature & Nordstrom Men’s Shop, Calibrate,
Broletto 1901, Rack & 14th & Union
Dress Shirts
Smartcare & Non-
Regular Non-Iron Regular
Iron
SPI 20 ±1 16 ±1 18±1 16 ±1

Sport Shirts Heavy Gauge

Regular Smartcare
Thread
SPI 18±1 16 ±1 10 ±1

Young Mens Heavy Gauge

Shirts Regular
Thread
SPI 12 ±1 10 ±1

105
STITCHING STANDARDS
Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard
Button sew includes the lock of the button sew as the last cycle (9th stitch).

Woven Sleepwear
Stitch Requirement PJ Sets and Sleep Pants
Regular Flannel
Stitching 16±1 14±1
Topstitch 16±1 14±1
Bartack 42 ± 1 42 ± 1
Button Sew 9 cycles 9 cycles

Knit Sleepwear
Stitch Requirement Top and Bottom
Stitching 12±1
Topstitch 12±1
Bartack 40±1
Button Sew 9 cycles

Robes
Shawl-Collar Robe
Stitch Requirement Kimono Robe
Maxi Hooded Robe
Regular Terry
Stitching 16±1 12±1
Topstitch 16±1 12±1
Bartack 42±1 40±1

Underwear
Stitch Requirement Knit Top and Bottom Woven Boxer
Stitching 12 ±1 12-14
Topstitch 12 ±1 12-14
Bartack 40 ± 1 42±1
Button Sew N/A 9 cycles
Note:
stitching.

106
STITCHING STANDARDS
Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard
Woven Bottom
Label John W. Nordstrom
JWN Transcript Young Men’s
& Nordstrom
Internal 20 ±1 12±1 8 ±1 16 ±1
Stitching
Topstitch 20 ±1 12 ±1 8 ±1 16 ±1
Decorative N/A N/A 9 ±1 N/A
Bartack 24 ± 1 24 ± 1 24 ± 1 24 ± 1
Button Sew 9 cycles 9 cycles 9 cycles 9 cycles
Button hole 18±1 24±1 24±1 18±1

107
We follow the Stitch Terminology as recongized by International Organization for Standardization.

Please reference below:

https://www.iso.org/standard/10932.html

http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-education/glossary/stitch-terminology-glossary/

108
SEAM CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

Location Stitch

Collar Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch

Shoulder 2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge

Seam
Placket Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch with 2 Needle 4 Thread
Overedge
Pocket Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch

Armhole 2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge

Sleeve 2 Needle 4Thread Overedge

Seam
Side Seam 2 Needle 4Thread Overedge
Underarm
Cuff 2 Needle 4Thread Overedge

Hem As per spec pack

109
 BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION
Buttonhole Type
▪ Must be Lock Stitch Type #304
Buttonhole Length
Straight
▪ Inside length to equal button diameter
▪ Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons
Keyhole
Buttonhole Thread
▪ Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified
Button Hole Standard
Fine Gauge Chunky Gauge
tons Size 18L and Size
For Buttons smaller;
18L and smaller; For Buttons Size 20L and Size
For Buttons larger;
20L and larger;
mend recommend
152 Thread density
152 Thread density recommend recommend
200 - 250 Thread
200 -density
250 Thread density
Bottom
B.H. Top of B.H. of B.H.
Bottom of B.H. Top of B.H. Top ofBottom
B.H. of B.H.
Bottom of B.H.

Chunky Chunky
Gauge Gauge

Button Thread Color

▪ Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM

110
BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION (cont’d)
Button Position
▪ Must be vertical, unless otherwise specified

FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE

AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE

ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1ST

AND LAST SHOULD BE
CENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE

LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT

BOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE

Quality Points (Women’s only)

▪ Buttons set on wearers left
▪ Buttons set on center line unless otherwise specified on VCS
▪ Mark button position after making button holes

111
STITCHING STANDARDS
Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard
John W.Nordstrom, JWN Signature & Nordstrom Men’s Shop, Calibrate,
Broletto 1901, Rack & 14th & Union
Dress Shirts
Smartcare & Non-
Regular Non-Iron Regular
Iron
SPI 20 ±1 16 ±1 18±1 16 ±1

Sport Shirts Heavy Gauge

Regular Smartcare
Thread
SPI 18±1 16 ±1 10 ±1

Young Mens Heavy Gauge

Shirts Regular
Thread
SPI 12 ±1 10 ±1

Standard Seam Types

Description Construction Top View
Shoulder Set with Yoking Seam or
Seam, Fold & Cord

Armhole Set with Sleeve Set Seam

Set with Faux French

Side Seam & Underarm Seam

Set with Felled Seam

Set with 5 Thread Safety

stitch

112