GPQ

Guidelines for Production & Quality control -Garments

Quality Department December 2007

WHY HAVE H&M PUBLISHED
GPQ? ............................................................... 3
GENERAL ...........................................................................
........................... 4 1. SAMPLE
PROCEDURE .........................................................................
....... 5
1.1 H&M Sample
responsible .......................................................................
.......... 5 1.2 Sample
report.............................................................................
................... 5 1.3 Pattern and
Grading............................................................................
............ 5 1.4
Dummies ...........................................................................
........................... 5 1.5 Development Sample
(D/S) .............................................................................
6 1.6 Quotation Sample
(Q/S) .............................................................................
..... 6 1.7 Photo Sample (Ph
/S)................................................................................
...... 6 1.8 Size Set
(SS/S) ............................................................................
.................. 6 1.9 Counter Sample
(C/S) .............................................................................
........ 6 1.10 Duplicate Counter
Sample ............................................................................
.. 6 1.11 Production Sample
(P/S)..............................................................................
.. 7

2. HOW TO
MEASURE ...........................................................................
......... 7 3.
COLOUR ............................................................................
........................ 8
3.1 Colour evaluation –visual
method ..................................................................... 8 3.2
Illuminants .......................................................................
............................. 8 3.3 Colour continuity
record ............................................................................
...... 8

4
LIGHTING ..........................................................................
........................ 9 5. FABRIC AND
YARN...............................................................................
... 10
5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 Fabric Inspection
procedure .........................................................................
...10 Yarn
inspection ........................................................................
.....................11 Fabric and Yarn
storage............................................................................
......11 Fabric and Yarn
shrinkage..........................................................................
.....11

6.
TRIMMINGS .........................................................................
................... 12
6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 Trim Card (moved
up)................................................................................
....12 Trim
inspection ........................................................................
.....................12 Pull force test of buttons and
accessories. .........................................................13 Trim
storage ...........................................................................
......................13

7.
PRODUCTION.........................................................................
................. 14
7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 7.8 New
employees .........................................................................
....................14 Pre
production ........................................................................
......................14 Trial
cutting ...........................................................................
.......................14 Spreading and
Cutting............................................................................
........15 Process
control............................................................................
..................15
Stitching .........................................................................
.............................16
Knitting...........................................................................
.............................16 Needle and sharp object
control.......................................................................16

8.
FINISHING .........................................................................
.................... 17
8.1
Trimming ..........................................................................
...........................17 8.2
Pressing ..........................................................................
.............................17

9.
PACKING ...........................................................................
..................... 18
9.1 Needle
detection .........................................................................
..................18 9.2
Storage............................................................................
............................18 9.3 Mould/Mildew and Insect
prevention.................................................................18

10.
INSPECTIONS .......................................................................
................ 19
10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5 Initial
inspection ........................................................................
..................19 Inline
inspection ........................................................................
..................19 Final
inspection ........................................................................
...................20 AQL 2.5 normal inspection, single sampling
plan ..............................................20 Rejected
products ..........................................................................
..............20

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11. DEFINITION OF
DEFECTS ..................................................................... 21
11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4 11.5 Critical
defects ...........................................................................
.................21 Major
defects ...........................................................................
...................21 Minor
defects ...........................................................................
...................21 Judgement of
defects ...........................................................................
........21 Problems on goods received at H&M DC or H&M
shop........................................21

12. ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION. ............................................................... 22

Why have H&M published GPQ?

H&M has published Guidelines for Production and Quality control with the goal to
reach an acceptable quality standard together with the H&M suppliers. The intention
is that you as an H&M supplier will use GPQ to solve problems as early as possible
by: • Trying to foresee potential problems. • Taking preventive action before bulk
production starts. If a problem still occurs during production you, as an H&M
supplier, must: • Find the source. • Stop the process. • Identify the problem. •
Solve and prevent it from recurring. • If necessary, contact H&M local office for
advise. To reach the goal, an acceptable quality standard, H&M recommends the
suppliers to: • Have staff with relevant education suitable for their task. • Keep
records over all parts involved in the goods e.g. fabric, accessories, packing
material, hangers. • Keep inspection records throughout the production Both you as
an H&M supplier and the H&M customer will benefit when H&M’s goal of an acceptable
quality standard is reached. Defects will be avoided, and the quantity of rejected
goods reduced. Summary As a rule, point out a potential problem as early as
possible in the production, start at the production planning and sample stage.
Continue quality control throughout the production and do not stop until the goods
are dispatched. The aim is to visually and technically inspect all goods in order
to verify their general conformity and appearance with all official H&M documents
and H&M approved sealed counter sample. Use records to analyze. Learn from your
mistakes to prevent problems from recurring. Do not only measure percentage of
defectives.

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General
The GPQ are to be considered as a part of the order contract between H&M and the
supplier. The GPQ sets out the minimum Quality Control required for producing goods
consistently to H&M Regulations, Requirements, Restrictions, Conditions and
Standards. H&M or an independent company will make various tests on counter
samples, production samples and incoming deliveries to make sure above procedures
are followed. H&M requires systems and procedures for in-line inspections at all
stages of production and a final Quality Control report of all H&M orders to assure
that the required quality is reached. H&M QC staff will routinely visit suppliers
during the manufacturing process to monitor and assure that H&M’s Quality Standards
and Requirements are being maintained. H&M staff should be provided easy access to
all goods and records at any time before, during and after the production. It is
the supplier’s responsibility to ensure that all H&M official documents are
communicated to the yarn, fabric and accessory suppliers. All Official documents
are found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

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1. Sample procedure
It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to assess samples regarding style/design
during sample stage to make sure they are suitable for bulk production. The
supplier must follow requested sample deadlines, sizes and colours specified on
sample order sheet, or according to eventual instructions from H&M local office. An
order does not become valid until eventual photo sample has reached Sweden Buying
Office on time and a counter sample has been approved by H&M. Detailed information
regarding samples is found in H&M Sample Guideline under Production and Quality
Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier All • • • • • • samples
sent to the H&M local office must have a hang-tag with: Order and Department number
Supplier and factory name Sample name e.g. Q/S (Quotation sample) Measurement list,
Pattern or Fitting block used. Date Specify if bulk or sample yardage is used. If
size, colour, print etc. are correct.

All samples in woven/knitted fabrics containing elastomeric yarn (e.g.,

spandex/elastane), must be in correct quality.

A sample technician must be assigned by the H&M supplier as responsible for H&M
samples. This person must work with H&M local office technician to solve technical
and safety issues, digital pictures and mock-ups are recommended. Suggested changes
done on a mock-up must accompany the sample and sample report to H&M local office.
To adjust samples for bulk production the sample responsible must have a good
knowledge of production and work closely with the production team. H&M recommends
the suppliers sample responsible to attend the Pre production meeting and to
inspect the first finished garments from Trial cutting. See chapter 8 Production;
8.2, 8.3.

1.1 H&M Sample responsible

1.2 Sample report

The H&M supplier/factory sample technician must create a sample report when sample
is checked; the report must accompany the sample to the H&M local production
office.

1.3 Pattern and Grading

All H&M suppliers/factories which are using H&M pattern in production must have a
pattern computer. H&M uses Lectra pattern computer. Suppliers with other pattern
computer brand, must buy translating software and be able to receive H&M Lectra
pattern files over E-mail.

Approved dummies with CEN/H&M standard body measurements should be used for fitting
of samples before they are sent to H&M local office. For detailed information
regarding H&M Approved Dummies see: H&M Fitting Dummies found under Production and
Quality Control at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier,

1.4 Dummies

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1.5 Development Sample (D/S)

A Development Sample marks the start of the “Pre-order process”. Already at this
time it is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to consider and ensure that the
product will be workable in bulk production.

1.6 Quotation Sample (Q/S)

A Quotation Sample is sent to Sweden Buying Office for approval before order is
placed. To not delay the bulk production start, it is important that the Q/S
follows H&M Sample Guideline.

1.7 Photo Sample (Ph /S)

A Photo Sample is used for mail order and internet sales and must therefore look
like actual bulk production on photo. The order is not valid until the Photo
samples have reached Sweden Buying Office on time.

1.8 Size Set (SS/S)

A Size Set consists of a sample in each size or a jumping size set as specified on
sample order. To not delay the bulk production start it is important that the SS/S
follows H&M Sample Guideline.

1.9 Counter Sample (C/S)

A Counter Sample is to provide H&M with a correct sample in actual bulk materials
for final approval, before the production can start. It is the supplier’s
responsibility to perform all necessary tests on Counter Sample. An approved
counter sample is no disclaimer from the supplier’s responsibility to observe and
comply with all H&M Official documents found at H&M Supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier For easy identification, H&M will attach a numbered
plastic seal to the approved counter sample before returning it to the supplier
with Measurement list and comments.

The order is not valid until the Counter sample has been approved. The production
may start only after receiving; Counter Sample approval and the Sealed Counter
Sample.

It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make duplicates of approved sealed

counter sample. These must be displayed throughout the factory, especially at the
inspection stages. The duplicates must be used as reference by all people involved
during bulk production. Measurement list and Counter sample comments must be
translated into native language, placed in plastic pocket and attached to the
duplicate. For easy identification, all duplicate counter samples must be marked
with: • Seal-, Order- and Department number. • Date

1.10 Duplicate Counter Sample

Duplicate Counter Samples must be displayed throughout the factory, and be

available in all production units.

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1.11 Production Sample (P/S)

The production sample must be taken from the actual production line. This will be
done by one of the H&M quality controllers as soon as the first goods are totally
completed. All labels, price tags, etc. must be attached. Retail packaging must be
the same as for the actual delivery. The production sample must reach and be
approved by H&M before the goods may be delivered. Various tests will be made. The
production must correspond to the approved counter sample, H&M order contract and
official documents in all aspects.

2. How to Measure
H&M requires that all suppliers measure all types of garments in the exact same way
as H&M. Detailed measuring instructions for different product types are found in
How to Measure under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier Tape measures should be calibrated regularly against a
metal ruler.

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3. Colour
Colour is a subjective experience and is usually the first thing a consumer notice
about a product. In production colour evaluation can not be handled subjectively.
Colour must be specified and defined. All colours are equally important to check
according to the same guidelines; shell, details, and trimmings including; thread,
button, badge, zipper, interlining, drawstring, stopper etc. In order to get
consistent results a colour standard must be used throughout the production chain.
Colours are evaluated visually in light box with the support of instrumental
evaluation by use of a spectrophotometer. Physical standard = visual evaluation in
light box on a colour cutting. Numeric standard = instrumental evaluation by use of
a spectrophotometer. More information regarding Colour is found in several
languages under Production and Quality Control in HM Supplier Colour Guidebook at:
H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

3.1 Colour evaluation –visual method

A number of variables can influence a colour evaluation. To control them, all

visual evaluation must be carried out in a light box. A procedure must be followed
and is described in detail in the HM Supplier Colour Guidebook.

3.2 Illuminants

H&M’s required illuminants must be used in the light box for all colour evaluation:
• H&M “Shop light” TL83 • Daylight D65 • A-light (tungsten, light bulb) – indoor
home light • UV light - check for Optical brighteners (OBA) Specification regarding
Colour Temperature (Kelvin), Colour Rendering Index (CRI) and Lumen (Lm) are found
in the HM Supplier Colour Guidebook.

Colour and shades; must be controlled by maintaining colour continuity records. Dye
lot to dye lot, within a dye lot and within a roll must be checked. At same website
under Supporting documents a Shade Record; a record for shades/family of shades can
be found. For washed garments the H&M supplier must stitch all roll swatches
together, to a patchwork (blanket), marked with roll number, and wash according to
specification. After wash a shade-band for each family of shades should be created
from the patchwork (blanket) before cutting. Recorded with order number, family
number, dye lot, roll number, date, and planned country. For heavy/fine knit, the
yarn from different dye lots should be knitted into swatches in order to sort the
different shades into families prior to knitting. A shade-band for each family of
shades should be created and recorded with order number, family number, dye lot,
weight, date and planned country. Colour continuity record must be available for
H&M during 6 months.

3.3 Colour continuity record

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4 Lighting
Lighting requirements depends mainly on three factors: • The work that will be
performed e.g. inspection, sewing, warehouse. • Working area environment e.g.
natural light, colour of background, ceiling and walls. • The sharpness of the
worker’s eyesight. It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make sure there is
correct lighting at the different work areas in the factory. To provide correct
lighting factory must: • Make full use of daylight. • Provide suitable light for
the work performed. • Use the right lighting device and fixture. • Find the correct
placement of the light source, appropriate light height and direction suitable for
the task performed. • Avoid shadows and glare. • Ensure regular maintenance e.g.
cleaning of lamps, lamp replacement schedule. • Measure work area light with a
Light meter and follow recommended Lux values Recommended Lux-values: Department
Fabric/Accessory Checking Inspection/Quality Control Cutting/Sewing Ironing
Warehouse for: Fabric/Accessory/Finished product Minimum Lux 1000 750 500 250

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5. Fabric and Yarn
It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to ensure good fabric/yarn quality in the
finished product. Fabric/yarn must be suitable for the intended garment, including
its treatments. Together with its fabric supplier, the H&M supplier should ensure
the fabric is carefully and systematically inspected prior to cutting. Below are
some extracts from the HM Fabric Inspection Guideline. HM Fabric Inspection
Guideline is found in several languages under Production and Quality Control at H&M
supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier At same website useful Supporting
documents for fabric and yarn are found: • Fabric Technical Data; an document used
during quotation stage as agreement between H&M garment supplier and their fabric
supplier to secure fabric quality and its technical performance • Fabric Inspection
Report; a formatted excel document for visual fabric inspection • Shade Record; a
record for shades/family of shades

5.1 Fabric Inspection procedure

H&M require a visual fabric inspection of minimum 10% of the bulk fabric quantity.
The fabric rolls selected for inspection must represent all colours and dye lots
within a colour. If the average shipment points exceed the acceptable points or if
inspection shows a high fault rate, an additional 15% must be inspected. If fabric
fails again, the delivery must be 100% inspected or rejected. For visual fabric
inspection of woven and jersey H&M recommends: Standard Test Methods for Visually
Inspecting and Grading Fabrics; ASTM D 5430 (4-point fabric inspection)
http://www.astm.org Fabric inspection records must be available for H&M and kept
for minimum 6 months. The 4 Point System is named from a basic grading rule;
regardless of length/size or number of defects, no more than 4 penalty points may
be assigned on any linear meter/yard. The inspection procedure must include a
control of: • Full width cutting (shade control), check by folding or sewing: Side
to side, side-centreside, beginning- end • Weight, on 10% of rolls chosen for
inspection, a minimum of 10 rolls must be checked • Cuttable width, checked at
beginning, middle and end of each roll chosen for inspection • Roll length,
verification against stated length on roll ticket • Splices • Fabric odours •
Bowing and skewing

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5.2 Yarn inspection

The H&M garment factory must have a method of yarn inspection. The yarn cones
selected for inspection must represent all colours and dye lots within a colour.
The yarn must be visually and technically inspected regarding; • Net weight • Yarn
count • Look and hand feel Yarn inspection records must be available for H&M and
kept for minimum 6 months.

5.3 Fabric and Yarn storage

Storage facilities must allow for air circulation, store goods off the floor and
away from the walls on pallets or shelf. All fabric/yarn rolls must be covered in
order to prevent damage, soiling and mould. To prevent damage/distortion of bottom
rolls, fabric must not be stacked too high. Rejected fabric/yarn must be marked and
stored separate to avoid mix up.

5.4 Fabric and Yarn shrinkage

H&M requires that garment suppliers do shrinkage tests of bulk fabric/yarn to

estimate the shrinkage prior to cutting/knitting. If fabric/yarn lots have
different shrinkage levels, it requires separate cutting/knitting patterns that are
adjusted with the correct shrinkage allowance. Fabric/yarn selected for testing
should represent all colours and all lots within a delivery. Shrinkage records
should be maintained for both warp and weft directions.

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6. Trimmings
Trimmings include: Threads, buttons, zippers, interlinings, badges, velcro,
drawstrings, stoppers, labels, hang tags, care labels, price tags, etc. All
trimmings must comply with all H&M Official documents found at H&M Supplier
website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

6.1 Trim Card

Trim cards must be made with bulk fabric/yarn and trimmings in all colours ordered
and sent to H&M local office for approval.

6.2 Trim inspection

The H&M supplier must have a method of trim inspection. An inspection of each trim
must be done immediate upon delivery to factory. Pick samples by random. The
accessory parts selected for inspection must represent all colours, dye lots and
“poly-bags” within a colour. • • Metal accessories must be nickel tested and must
not exceed limit given in H&M Chemical Restrictions. Press & jeans buttons, rivets
etc; fabric quality, interlining and number of layers must be specified to
accessory supplier. A Data-sheet should be obtained. Upon delivery, test the
strength of attachment, length of pin etc. on a mock-up sample. For babies’ and
children’s garments a Pull force test must be done. See point 6.3. Interlining;
control shrinkage and test bond strength both before and after wash test. Threads
must be in correct quality to keep its strength, also after heavy garment washes.
Elastic must have suitable elasticity, acceptable expiry date, be relaxed and pre-
shrunk e.g. tumble dried or steamed before sewn into the garment. Care label print
must be wash-proof and readable during the useful life of the product. Buttons for
all garments must be attached with a lockstitch machine. Stoppers must fit the
draw-string, spring must be ferrous free.

• • • • • •

Inspection should include controls and tests suitable for the trimmings e.g.: •
Overall appearance and general quality check for; cracks, sharp edges, strength,
etc. • Visual colour evaluation in Light box; compare colour and colour shades
against Trim card/Counter Sample. If not contrast colour, check if the colour of
different parts in the same product matches in all 3 light sources. • Test the
colour fastness with a Dry rubbing test: rub the item with white cloth minimum 10
cycles. • Test the bleeding with a Bleeding test: Dip the item in water, wrap or
tie it around white cloth for 5 minutes. Records must be kept for 6 months. • Test
the Staining by attaching all trimmings on a finished or dummy garment before wash
test. • Size and grading; measure that it is correct in all sizes of e.g. zipper,
drawstring etc. • Metal accessories for Babies’ and Children’s wear must be tested
individually for ferrous and also be passed through the needle detector as a
finished product before bulk production starts. The inspection will show whether
the entire lot is acceptable or not depending on the quality of the samples
inspected. All trim inspection, control and test records must be kept for minimum 6
months.

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6.3 Pull force test of buttons and accessories.

All H&M suppliers/factories for babies’ and children’s garments must have a SafQ
button and accessory testing machine. All accessories like buttons, rivets, etc.
must be tested for fastness up to 90N every 4th hour during production. For more
information see Button test under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier
website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Tested garments must be: • Permanently marked
on front with date, time, signature and machine cod/number. • Kept separately from
bulk production in a locked container. • Available for H&M staff. • Destroyed after
6 months. Information regarding Children Safety is found in H&M Safety Requirements
for Babies and Children under Commitments at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier

6.4 Trim storage

Storage facilities should allow goods to be stored on shelves by order number or

type of product. Receiving date must be marked on trimmings were properties can
change during storage to ensure usage before expiry date. All accessory parts must
be covered to prevent damage and soiling.

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7. Production
In every area of production the emphasis must be to foresee potential problems and
take preventive action. If problem occurs; find the source, stop the process, and
identify the problem. Solve and prevent it from recurring. If necessary, contact
H&M local office for advise. Inform the local H&M office about an order’s
production start. We recommend base and trailing orders to be continuously
produced, in order to keep consistent quality level. During production Minimum
manufacturing requirements must be followed. Minimum manufacturing requirements are
found under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier

7.1 New employees

To maintain consistent quality throughout the production process all staff must
have relevant education suitable for their task. H&M recommends new employees to be
given an eyesight test, to establish their need of glasses. New experienced
employees should be instructed regarding suppliers and customers quality standards.
Their skill should be tested before they are placed in production line. New
inexperienced employees should be given a training program that includes: • Basic
training; exercises in sewing and handling motions e.g. machine control, eyes-hand-
feet coordination, straight stitching and stitch control, techniques in angular and
curved stitching, fabric alignment, chain stitching practice etc. • Job related
training; detail stitching and assembly techniques etc. • Production training;
speed training, fault analysis etc.

Before production can start, the suppliers must conduct pre production meetings,
style by style, and discuss how to produce the goods with a consistent quality.
This will help to identify the number and type of controls and tests that are going
to be required. All persons involved before and during the production must attend
this meeting. Keep a record from the meeting. When the production unit is located
far away, it is important to send written detailed information from the pre
production meeting to the production unit.

7.2 Pre production

H&M recommends the supplier to do a trial cutting before production starts. Finish
150 – 600 pieces covering all sizes and colours. At this stage it is easier to find
and solve problems that otherwise can occur during bulk production. When possible
the supplier’s production team, independent QC and sample responsible should
together inspect the first finished garments. Eventual adjustments must be made
before bulk cutting starts. Records must be kept. To avoid packing problems
products must be test packed according to given packing instructions. The supplier
should Wash test the garment according to care instruction. Follow instructions
given in the H&M Lab Manual under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier
website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Control after wash: • Over all appearance •
Shrinkage • Twisting, staining, cross staining etc. • Dry and wet rubbing

7.3 Trial cutting

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7.4 Spreading and Cutting

For replacement of defective parts during production, remnants of fabric should be

saved and marked with; cut, roll, and shade number. • Fabrics containing
elastomeric yarn must relax unrolled and flat folded before cutting. Depending on
fabric behaviour, relaxation can be needed both before and after spreading. •
Woven: All parts in the same garment of the same quality must be cut from the same
layer consisting of the same dye lot. • Jersey: All parts in the same garment of
the same quality must be cut from the same dye lot. • Directional fabric: all parts
in the same garment must be cut in the same direction. If no other agreement is
stated on order all garments in the same order should be cut in the same direction.
• Tension must be checked during spreading. • Splices, both layers must overlap
past the marked splice. • Ply height must be suitable according to fabric type. •
All pattern pieces on marker must be placed on correct grain line. • Pattern pieces
must not be damaged or overlapping when markers are drawn. • Pins must be avoided
when fastening the marker to the fabric. • Parts must be checked for size
conformance after cutting.

7.5 Process control

Process control will identify the source of eventual weak points in the production
line. This knowledge must be used to inform and educate the personnel. A process
controller: • Is responsible for approx. 30-35 machines/operators/workers. •
Evaluates the work of each operator/worker minimum 2 times a day. • Inspects
difficult processes more often according to Sample responsible’s advice or from a
Pre production decision. • Audits 7 pieces picked at random from the
operator/worker. • Returns them to the operator/worker if no defects are found. •
Keeps a record. Process control system: 1. If one or more defects are found, the
defective pieces are handed over to the supervisor. 2. With clear explanation on
how to avoid the defect, the supervisor returns the defective pieces to the
operator/worker for repair. 3. The operator/worker returns the same pieces after
repair to the supervisor. 4. The supervisor returns repaired pieces to the process
controller, who checks that defects have been repaired. 5. After a rejection,
repeat from points 1-4 every hour until 3 consecutive controls of 7 pieces are
without defects before going back to original inspecting schedule. When same item
is produced in other production lines/units, check if the same problem has
occurred, if so, solve it immediately.

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7.6 Stitching
• • • • • • • • • •

H&M recommends working with a line system. This is to maintain a continuous quality
level throughout the production and to increase the capacity. On the production
floor QC’s must work both in the lines and at the end of the lines. Supervisors and
Process controllers must ambulate the floor. QC’s, supervisors and process
controllers must have an open communication and work together in the aim to
maintain good and continuous quality in the production line. Production must be
stopped when a problem occur. The problem source must be found and solved before
production can start again. Records must be kept by supervisor. Mechanics should
take care of the machine maintenance. All machines should be checked on regular
basis. A service contract with the machine company is recommended. The machine
operators are responsible that their machine runs according to standard. In case of
problems the supervisor or mechanic must be contacted. Trimming should be taken
care of throughout the stitching process. Trimmed loose threads must be permanently
removed. Pressing depending on style and material must be done throughout the
stitching process. Instructions or guides that can help the operator to keep
consistent quality are recommended.

7.7 Knitting
• • • • • • •

All panels in one garment should be knitted on the same machine. Light tables and
cones must be used for control of panels and garments. QC’s must work on the
production floor. Supervisors must ambulate the floor. Production must be stopped
when a problem occur. The problem source must be found and solved before production
can start again. Records must be kept by supervisor. Mechanics should take care of
the machine maintenance. All machines should be checked on a regular basis. A
service contract with the machine company is recommended. The machine operators are
responsible that their machine runs according to standard. In case of problems the
supervisor or mechanic should be contacted. Instructions or guides that can help
the operator to keep consistent quality are recommended.

7.8 Needle and sharp object control

• • •

Scissors, cutters and all other tools must be attached to the work table with a
chain or collected and counted daily. Broken needle records are to be kept. All
broken parts must be taped into a log sheet. A magnet can be used as help to search
for broken needle parts in the immediate surroundings of the work area.

Information regarding Needle and sharp object control is found in H&M Guideline for
needle and sharp object control under Commitments at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier

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8. Finishing
It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make sure all goods are finished and
ready for display. H&M recommends their supplier to have a Display control of all
products before they are packed. The control should include: • Overall appearance
and general quality. • Measurement control of a few measurements in length and
width. • Size label, price tag and care label.

8.1 Trimming

Final trimming must be done in the finishing area before packing. All trimmed loose
threads must be permanently removed.

8.2 Pressing
• • • • • • •

Pressing instruction must be given. Supervisors must ambulate the floor. Heat must
be adjusted depending of material and style. To avoid shine marks, a Teflon shoe
must be used. Press table cover must be exchanged regularly. To keep quality
consistent; tape measure, measurement list etc. are recommended. For heavy and fine
knit, a mould should be used, in order to maintain the correct shape.

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9. Packing
It is the H&M supplier’s responsibility to make sure the product is finish level is
maintained during transport. The goods should be delivered ready for display. All
packing information is found under Logistics at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier

9.1 Needle detection

For checking all types of babies’ and children’s products, adult underwear,
swimwear and the Japanese quantity a needle detector must be used. H&M detection
standard is 1,2 mm diameter sphere of ferrous metal. Records must be kept. The
needle detection must be performed just before the product is packed into a carton.
After detection the products should be held separate in a “metal free zone” in the
packing area. Information regarding Children Safety is found in H&M Safety
Requirements for Babies and Children and information regarding Needle and sharp
object control is found in H&M Guideline for needle and sharp object control under
Commitments at H&M supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier

9.2 Storage
• • •

New unused cartons should be stored covered on pallets, to prevent them from being
damaged and soiled. Packed cartons must be stored country wise fully positioned on
pallets. Hanging shipments should be stored country wise, by size and colour. Goods
should be covered with appropriate poly-bags/packaging materials.

Prevention of mould/mildew and insects is a part of the production process.

Dampness and dirt must be avoided and removed before packing. • Factories must be
kept clean and dry, including; washrooms, kitchen, lunch room and immediate
surroundings. • Food must be kept and eaten only in designated areas. • Goods must
be kept off the floor during production. • All goods must be dry when packed, use
vacuum table with steam iron, let garments dry properly after garment wash and spot
removal. • Factory warehouses must be dry and with good ventilation. • Packed
cartons must be stored off the floor and away from the walls on pallets or shelves.
• Avoid storing goods for long periods especially during the rainy season. Goods
stored in the factory warehouse should be re-checked prior to shipment. • Use only
box trucks for transport and load them under cover. • Damaged or wet cartons must
be checked and repacked. • Use only PE plastic bags with envelope opening. Bags
must have ventilation holes along sides and holes or cut corners at bottom. • Avoid
master plastic bag. • When using Micro-Pak PE Sheets, see Micro-Pak website:
http://www.micropakltd.com • A service contract with a pest control company is
recommended. • During packing, the goods must be protected from insects. Windows
and doors in the packing premises must either be closed or equipped with high-
density net or other suitable cover. • Products with a strong smell must be packed
in mesh bags. Straw and Wood must be properly dried. Transport cartons must have
holes for air circulation during transport. • An audit of the packing must be done.

9.3 Mould/Mildew and Insect prevention

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10. Inspections
H&M recommends the suppliers to have an Independent QC or an Independent Quality
Assurance team responsible for quality control (internal audits). The team should
be separated from the production team and under the direction of ownership, or
fully independent. The Independent QC must perform internal quality controls
continuously during the whole production process. Audit stations, Inspection area
and Inspection room should have: • Day light D65 with minimum 1000 Lux over the
inspection area. • Table should be in suitable size to garment. • Area must be
arranged so no confusion will arise on what is rejected or approved. • Tools for
checking; duplicate C/S, calibrated measurement tape, measurement list, inspection
or process control report. The goods must be inspected, tested and records must be
kept after each major stage of production e.g. • Fabric/Yarn inspection: Shade
deviation, colour against standard, fabric defects, shrinkage. • Cutting/knitting:
Parts and panels size conformance, fabric or knit defects. • Pre-assembly: General
workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking, collars, sleeves,
position of pockets, prints and embroideries. • Assembly: General workmanship,
appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking, pockets, zippers, position and
fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes. • Finishing/pressing: Position and
fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes, overall workmanship, pressing
appearance and measurements. • Pull force test of buttons and accessories: Babies’
and children’s garments must be tested on a SafQ button and accessory testing
machine every 4th hour during production. Inspection records must be kept for
minimum 6 months Defects should be marked with e.g. arrow stickers. All problems
identified during internal inspections or during inspections by H&M QC staff, must
be corrected immediately by supplier. Supplier must have a follow up procedure to
ensure the problems are permanently solved. Problems must not be present at next
internal inspection, or during next H&M QC inspection. Inspection forms used must
show same information as the H&M inspection reports. The reports must be kept for
review by visiting H&M QC staff, or sent to H&M on request. Suppliers who use
subcontractors for production must have their own QC’s working at the
subcontractors. It is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure that the
subcontractor follows all H&M’s Official documents found at H&M Supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier

10.1 Initial inspection

This inspection is very important in order to get a smooth running production. At

this stage it is still possible to find and solve problems without causing any
major disturbance in the production. The suppliers Independent QC must carry out
the initial inspection on the first finished goods from trial production. H&M
recommends the supplier’s production team and sample responsible to take part in
this inspection. To ensure conformance to requirements this inspection must include
controls and tests on garments produced in production line, see H&M Lab Manual
under Production and Quality Control at H&M supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier Eventual adjustments must be made before bulk production
starts. Records must be kept.

10.2 Inline inspection

The purpose of this inspection is to confirm that during the early stages of
production, the agreed manufacturing specifications are being followed. Problems
found must be solved immediately. H&M GPQ December 2007 19(22)
10.3 Final inspection

For Final inspection the H&M suppliers must follow a minimum of; AQL 2.5 normal
inspection, single sampling plan. See 10.4. Pick by random samples of finished
goods from the finishing section in all sizes and colours from all countries. The
inspection will show whether the entire lot is acceptable or not depending on the
quality of the samples inspected. For judging defects, see chapter 12 Definition of
defects. It is the sole responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all goods are
consistent with: • Approved Counter Sample • H&M Order contract • Official
documents found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier • H&M graded
measurement list • Colours must be evaluated according to Counter Sample Pay
special attention to the following: • Correct information on price tags • Correct
assortment in poly bags • Correct colour and quantity in cartons • Correct filling
level • Correct marked cartons • Correct swing tickets on hanging goods • No
unnecessary master poly bags Final inspection records are to be kept for 18 months.
Use the record for comparison with previous inspection results and for analysis to
help identify areas that need improvement. It might be required to send copies of
the final inspection report to the local H&M office for review. In those cases when
H&M perform Final Inspection, easy access should be provided to all goods, allowing
random samples to be taken for inspections.

10.4 AQL 2.5 normal inspection, single sampling plan,

Sample Accept Reject quantity 90 - 150 20 1 2 151 - 280 32 2 3 281 - 500 50 3 4 501
1200 80 5 6 1201 - 3200 125 7 8 3201 10000 200 10 11 10001 - 35000 315 14 15 35001
500 21 22 For more information regarding: Sampling procedures for inspection by
attributes. Sampling schemes indexed by acceptance quality limit (AQL) for lot-by-
lot inspection. See chapter 9 Additional information. Total order quantity

10.5 Rejected products

Products permanently rejected during an inspection must be marked and kept

separate. H&M recommend “Rejected for H&M” stamp on inside of garment. Rejected
products must be available, minimum 1 month after delivery, for review by H&M
staff.

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11. Definition of defects
There are Critical, Major and Minor defects.

11.1 Critical defects

• • • • • • • • • •

Goods that do not comply with H&M Safety Requirements for babies´ and children’s
wear and/or H&M Chemical Restrictions. Label missing H&M Swedish address ''H&M 106
38 Stockholm Sweden''. Label missing country of origin or composition. Label
missing RN number and CA number. GB/IRL; missing “keep away from fire” label on all
baby wear size 44-62 and on nightwear for children’s, ladies’ and men’s sizes.
NL/DE; missing “verwijderd houden van open vuur” label on nightwear for ladies’ and
men’s sizes. US/CA; missing “do not use as sleepwear” on care label for children’s
underwear; t-shirts long, short sleeve and sleeve less, long johns sizes 74-164.
CA; missing “Registration #” for padded items and new materials. Goods not packed
according to H&M Order sheet and H&M Packing Instructions found at H&M supplier
website: http://www.hm.com/supplier Insects, Strong odour, Moist products or any
objects apart from packed goods found in cartons

If a critical defect is found when inspecting, the entire production must be

rejected and 100% reinspected by the supplier’s independent QC-team.

11.2 Major defects

• • • •

Visible when using and noticeable to the customer and/or could affect the quality
of the goods. Affecting the usefulness of the goods. Not according to H&M Quality
Standards and Requirements. Not packed according to H&M Packing sheet.

11.3 Minor defects

• •

Not visible when using and not noticeable to the customer and/or does not affect
the quality of the goods. Not affecting the usefulness of the goods but not up to
approved standard.

11.4 Judgement of defects

• •

Combinations of 3 minor defects, concentrated in the same critical area, that is

the upper front part of the garment, will be treated as 1 major defect. If 1 major
defect is found together with minors, the whole garment should be counted as 1
major defect.

However, if consistent minor defects occur, which affect the overall appearance of
the goods, stop the process and contact the H&M local production office.

11.5 Problems on goods received at H&M DC or H&M shop

Problems found after goods are received at H&M Distribution Center or H&M shop must
generate a supplier analysis. All records from production must be used to find and
identify the problem source. An action plan based on the result (learn from your
mistakes) must be used to prevent problem from recurring.

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12. Additional information.
All H&M Official documents are found at H&M Supplier website:
http://www.hm.com/supplier Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and
Grading Fabrics; ASTM D5430 (4-point fabric inspection) http://www.astm.org
Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes. Sampling schemes indexed by
acceptance quality limit (AQL) for lot-by-lot inspection are found at: ISO
International Standards Organization: Standard 2859-1:1999
http://www.iso.org/iso/en/ISOOnline.frontpage BS British Standards: BS 6001-1:1999
http://www.bsi-global.com ANSI American National Standards Institute: ANSI/ASQC
Z1.4 http://www.qcss.com/E-Commerce%20Products/ASQC%20Standards.htm Military
Standard: MIL-STD-105E http://www.variation.com/anonftp/pub/milstd105e.pdf#search=
%22mil-std-105e%22 Improving working conditions and productivity in the garment
industry / Juan Carlos Hiba
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/support/publ/pindex.htm Information regarding
Mould and Mildew protection with Micro-Pak: http://www.micropakltd.com

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