A report about Sourcing Tasar Silk from Jharkhand

for
Titan Company Limited, Bangalore

Hand Painted Dumka Nagada Mandar Patterns of Tribal Motifs on Tusar Silk Saree

Wall painting done on Santal Mud House

by

Radhika Naware, Pune

+91 9370649304 | mytreasuredholidays@gmail.com
September-December 2017
Table of Contents
1. Acknowledgement .......................................................................................................................... 4
2. Introduction .................................................................................................................................... 5
2.1. Background: Jharkhand............................................................................................................... 5
3. Tasar Silk ......................................................................................................................................... 6
3.1. Stages of Tasar Moth .................................................................................................................. 6
3.2. Different Types of Cocoons ......................................................................................................... 9
3.3. The Process ............................................................................................................................... 10
3.4. Ahimsa Silk ................................................................................................................................ 11
3.5. Types of spun silk yarns from Tasar Silk waste ......................................................................... 11
Giccha Yarn ........................................................................................................................................... 11
Katia Yarn .............................................................................................................................................. 12
Jhuri Yarn .............................................................................................................................................. 12
Balkal Yarn:............................................................................................................................................ 12
3.6. Important facts about Tasar ..................................................................................................... 13
3.7. Current Situation....................................................................................................................... 13
4. Major Institutional Players in Tasar Weaving and Revival ............................................................ 14
A. Lugam: Abhinav Silk Pvt Ltd .......................................................................................................... 14
About Lugam ......................................................................................................................................... 14
About Dhirendra Kumar ........................................................................................................................ 15
Recommendation.................................................................................................................................. 15
Challenge............................................................................................................................................... 15
Samples bought from Lugam ................................................................................................................ 17
B. Jharkhand State Khadi and Village Industries Board .................................................................... 19
About Jharkhand State Khadi and Village Industries Board ................................................................. 19
Recommendation.................................................................................................................................. 20
Pictures of sarees & stoles on display................................................................................................... 21
C. Jharkhand Silk, Textile & Handicraft Development Corporation Ltd (Jharcraft) .......................... 25
About Jharcraft ..................................................................................................................................... 25
Precaution to be taken.......................................................................................................................... 26
Samples bought from Jharcraft............................................................................................................. 28
More samples on display. Only photography has been done .............................................................. 31
D. Animation Rural Outreach Service Society (AROUSE) .................................................................. 37
Sample bought from AROUSE Gumla ................................................................................................... 37

2
E. Pooja Shree, a shop in Singhbhum................................................................................................ 38
5. Other institutes visited.................................................................................................................. 39
6. Santal ............................................................................................................................................ 40
6.1. Clothing History of Santals ........................................................................................................ 40
7. Santal Paintings ............................................................................................................................. 42
Recommendation.................................................................................................................................. 42
8. Mud Houses of Jharkhand ............................................................................................................ 43
9. Tribal Paitings on Textiles ............................................................................................................. 45
Recommendation.................................................................................................................................. 46
10. Inherent Limitations of the state of Jharkhand ........................................................................ 47
11. Annexure: Important Contacts visited during visit ................................................................... 48

3
1. Acknowledgement
I express my gratitude to Titan Company Ltd. for giving me this unique opportunity to
prepare a report on “Sourcing Tasar Silk from Jharkhand”. I would like to thank the
team of officials from Titan who showed tremendous confidence in me for exploring
the prospects of working with the Artisans. I must say, this was an exclusive and
enjoyable assignment.

Thank you for the support to carry out this research assignment.

Radhika Naware

19, Sampada

Kalaniketan Society, Kalanagar

Pune Satara Road

Pune 411043

4
2. Introduction
I visited State of Jharkhand during 29 October to 5 November 2017 as part of my
assignment with Titan Company Ltd. I gathered detailed information about Tasar silk,
captured photos and videos of processes and conducted detailed interviews with
Weavers’ Associations during the tour to understand the current situation about Tasar
Silk in the state.

I bought samples of Tasar, Mulberry, Eri & Ahimsa Silk sarees and stoles. I also
procured Tribal Cotton and Khadi sarees of Jharkhand. Proactively I collected more
information about traditional art forms on textiles. I sourced sample products from
different associations and weavers. Hope these samples give you clear idea about silk
quality. I look forward to hear response from Titan regarding vendor finalization and
feedback on the samples bought from Jharkhand. Here’s the outcome of the tour.

2.1. Background: Jharkhand

Jharkhand, the land of forests, was carved out of the southern part of Bihar on 15
November 2000. The land of legendary Bhagwan Birsa Munda acquired its existence
as the 28th State of the nation.

The state shares its border with the states of Bihar to the North, Uttar Pradesh to the
Northwest, Chhattisgarh to the West, Odisha to the South and West Bengal to the
East. The state is rich in vibrant tribal cultures, arts and crafts which are being
traditionally practised.1 Geographically Jharkhand still remains less visible
destination on the Craft Map of India. However it is a land of unexplored
opportunities. Through this report I have tried to present Status, Prospects and
Challenges about Tasar. Let’s explore the world of silks from Jharkhand.
1
I browsed through the website: Jharkhand: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jharkhand
on 7th November 2017
5
3. Tasar Silk
India is the second largest producer of silk in the world. It produces four types of silk:
 Mulberry
 Tasar
 Eri
 Muga

Jharkhand is the leading producer of Tasar in the country. It produces 62 % of India’s

Tasar Silk and is the sole supplier of certified Organic Tasar Silk in the world.

Tasar silk (alternatively spelled as Tussah, Tushar, Tassar, Tusaar, Tussore, Tussur,
Tusser and also known as Kosa silk (Sanskrit). It is produced from larvae of several
species of silkworms belonging to the moth genus Antheraea, including A.
assamensis, A. mylitta, A. paphia, A. pernyi, A. roylei and A. yamamai. These
silkworms live in the wild forest on trees belonging to Terminalia species like Arjun
and Shorea robusta (Sal) as well as other food plants like Jamun and Oak, eating the
leaves of the trees they live on. Tasar silk is valued for its rich texture and natural deep
golden colour.2

3.1. Stages of Tasar Moth

During the visit, I captured different stages of Tasar Moth at Central Tasar Research
& Training Institute (CTRTI), Ranchi, Jharkhand.

Young larva

2
I browsed through website: Tassar Silk: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tussar_silk on
10th November 2017

6
Ripe larva

Cocoon

7
 Adult moths

Tasar cultivation site of Central Tasar Research & Training Institute

Video of M M Baig was captured during the guided tour. He talks about the current
research going on in the Central Tasar Research & Training Institute.3

Watch the video here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1M_fzVCx8LsXFm7xnQTcS-
2co8ASc85aV?usp=sharing
3
I recorded video about current research topic during guided tour with M M Baig,
Researcher, Central Tasar Research & Training Institute, Ranchi on 1st November
2017

8
 3.2. Different Types of Cocoons
Following types of cocoons are on display at Central Tasar Research & Training
Institute, Ranchi, Jharkhand

Interesting statistics about commercial and technological properties of different

ecoraces of Antheraea mylitta D. cocoons displayed at Central Tasar Research &
Training Institute, Ranchi as follows

9
 3.3. The Process
Tasar cocoon is a protective shell formed by silkworm surrounding its body by
throwing liquid silk which forms continuous silk filament coming in contact with air.
The filament is laid in layers to constitute hard, compact shell of silk. Once the cocoon
is formed, the silkworm inside it needs to be killed for avoiding emergence of moth,
otherwise extraction of silk filament through the process of reeling will not be
possible. Prior to reeling, hard cocoons need to be softened to facilitate easy
withdrawal of silk filament and the process is called “Cooking of Cocoons”.
Traditionally, the Tasar cocoons are cooked in an over packed vessel by boiling in a
solution of 15-20 gpl soda for 60-90 minutes.

The process however does not give uniform softening of all the cocoons taken
together and damage the silk fibre due to the use of soda. Lacuna is overcome with the
development of hydrogen peroxide cooking where cocoons are boiled in a solution of
10 ml/litre hydrogen peroxide, 10 gpl soap for 5-10 minutes followed by 30-60
minutes steaming in the same solution depending on the thickness of cocoon shell.

The process of silk filament extraction from the softened/cooked cocoons which is
called reeling, is so far limited to dry or semi-dry method as cooked cocoons are first
soaked in a ash bed to remove excess water and then taken for reeling. Presently two
methods are used for dry reeling namely “Natwa Reeling” and “Machine Reeling”.
Wet reeled yarn has a definite edge over the others as far as quality and usage as warp
is concerned. The Wet Reeling Technology is another step forward towards
development of Tasar Silk industry and will be in a position to solve many problems
facing at present. 4

Reeling activity at Central Tasar Research & Training Institute, Ranchi is seen in the
picture below:

4
I jotted down notes during guided tour at Central Tasar Research & Training
Institute, Ranchi on 1st November 2017

10
 3.4. Ahimsa Silk
Traditional silk manufacturing methods involve boiling the cocoons of the silkworm
and then sorting out the threads to be used later in production. Ahimsa Silk
specifically lets the worms hatch and then use the cocoons once vacant.

The main qualities of Ahimsa silk are derived from the concept of Ahimsa. This
allows the silk to be manufactured without harming the beings that created it. This
concept appeals to religions like Jainism, Hinduism and Buddhism whose followers
forego all injury to other forms of life. Non violent lifestyle proponents have more
recently found peace silk to be in keeping with their way of life.

From a purely economic standpoint, it is difficult to make the argument for peace silk
as it requires 10 extra days in the process to let the larvae grow and the moths to hatch
out of the cocoons. In contrast, the traditional process was less time consuming and
did not involve much cost. While this humane process of producing non violent silk
requires not only more time but inflates the cost almost twice of the silk.5

Note: Lugam, Khadi and Village Board and Jharcraft have sarees and stoles of
Ahimsa Silk

3.5. Types of spun silk yarns from Tasar Silk waste

There are four types of spun silk yarn produced from Tasar Silk Waste:

 Giccha
 Katia
 Jhuri
 Balkal

The details are given below:6

Giccha Yarn
This yarn is traditionally produced from unreelable cocoons by drawing out silk
filament and giving a false twist to bind the filaments by inverted earthen pitcher. The
yarn produced by this technique is subsequently wound on to the swift in the form of
hank. The count of yarn ranges from 15Nm to 25 Nm for this variety.

5
I browsed through website: Ahimsa Silk: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ahimsa_silk
on 13th November 2017
6
I prepared notes on Types of spun silk yarns from Tasar Silk waste during guided
tour at Central Tasar Research & Training Institute, Ranchi, Jharkhand on 1st
November 2017

11
Sadanand Ram, staff member of Jharcraft is from a weaving community. His family
members weave Giccha yarn at home. He told me that in olden days, weavers used to
twist the yarn on thai “ (Ghich Ghich ke)”. Now earthen pitchers are used
for twisting the filaments. See the video of Sadanand Ram explaining Giccha yarn7:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1M_fzVCx8LsXFm7xnQTcS-
2co8ASc85aV?usp=sharing

Recommendation: Best quality sarees, stoles and yardage of Giccha are available
with Khadi and Village Industries Board in Ranchi.

See the video of Giccha recorded at Central Tasar Training and Research Institute,
Ranchi, Jharkhand.8

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1M_fzVCx8LsXFm7xnQTcS-
2co8ASc85aV?usp=sharing

Katia Yarn
A lump of degummed and opened Tasar reeling waste is drafted by hand. Twist is
given to the strand by rotating spindle “Takli”. The yarn formed is called Katia which
subsequently wound on to the spindle and then converted to hank form. The count of
yarn ranges from 10 Nm to 15 Nm for this variety.

Recommendation: Best quality sarees and stoles of Katia are available with
Khadi and Village Industries Board in Ranchi.

Jhuri Yarn
This type of yarn with count up to 10 Nm is spun from uncleaned and unopened Tasar
wastes similar to Giccha.

Balkal Yarn:
This type of yarn with count up to 10 Nm is produced from peduncle waste which is
spun by hand operated charkha. Balkal yarn is made up of peduncles, part that anchors
the cocoon.

7
I captured video of Sadanand Ram, staff member of Jharcraft, explaining Giccha on
30th October 2017 in Jharcraft showroom in Ranchi, Jharkhand
8
I captured video of making of Giccha yarn on earthen pitcher at Central Tasar
Training and Research Institute, Ranchi, Jharkhand on 1st November 2017

12
 3.6. Important facts about Tasar
 Jharkhand exports Tasar to the US, countries in Europe including UK, Japan
and Australia.
 In its Industrial and Investment Policy 2016, Textile has been declared as a
thrust area.
 The state government of Jharkhand is keen to develop Tasar Post Cocoon
Activities and to establish world class facilities for manufacturing to contribute
to ‘Make in India’ and ‘Zero Defect- Zero Effect’ at each level of the value
chain.
 The Mega Handloom Cluster Scheme is benefiting to 1,00,000 weavers in
six districts.
 Mobile based service for farmers engaged in production of silk with the aim of
providing timely intervention in problems. 9

Recommendation: Jharkhand is a green field for Tasar Silk for Titan

Tribal communities are important part of Tasar production processed across

Jharkhand.

Post Cocoons activity at Central Tasar Training and Research Institute, Ranchi

3.7. Current Situation

Tasar weaving is a common activity in the interior parts around Ranchi and
Jamshedpur. As compared to Tasar production ratio, Tasar weaving scenario is
fragmented in Jharkhand. Information about weavers, weavers associations and
weaving clusters is not easily available on-line or off line. Hence I took extra efforts to
personally visit various weaving units across Jharkhand.

9
I read a detailed report “Momentum Jharkhand: The investment destination”. Notes
were jotted down on 30th October 2017 from this official publication of Jharcraft
13
4. Major Institutional Players in Tasar Weaving and Revival

A. Lugam: Abhinav Silk Pvt Ltd

Contact Person: Direndra Kumar, Head, IFS, (Retired)
Address: Abhinav Silk Pvt Ltd, Ashreya, Behind Sirdi Sai Hospital, Bariatu,
Ranchi 834009, Jharkhand
Contact details: 9771434645, dk@lugam.in
GSTIN: 20AAQCA0516Q1ZM

Dhirendra Kumar and Prity Kumar with me at office of Lugam10

About Lugam
Lugam, Ranchi is run by Dhirendra Kumar, Retired Indian Forest Service Officer.
He was a former Special Secretary, Industry Department cum Director of Sericulture,
Handloom and Handicraft, Government of Jharkhand and Managing Director of
Jharcraft. He took charge when the activity of Sericulture, Handloom and Handicraft
was dying in the state and the annual production of the sericulture in 2006-2007 was
only 90 metric ton. With his strong endeavor and hard work, within a 5 year
timeframe the production of Tasar silk rose to 1025 metric ton and thus Jharkhand
could become the leading producer of Tasar Silk in the country and also got the
Organic Certification in Tasar Silk.

As the silk is cultivated on Arjun and Asan trees in the forest areas, his initiative has
also become a major factor in forest conservation. His main contribution has been the
revival of handloom societies and formation of many Self Help Groups (SHG) of
weavers. Jharcraft also has given the livelihood Training to more than 3.47 lac people
which includes the training of the Sericulture, Handloom and Handicraft. He was an
officer who doesn't take any police security while visiting the naxal affected area of

10
I conducted a detailed meeting with Dhirendra Kumar and Prity Kumar at office of
Lugam on 2nd November 2017
14
Jharkhand. His intervention has not only made an economical effect to the life of
people but also changed their social life. With his vision, he brought a ray of hope for
development in the naxal areas of Jharkhand by providing livelihood support.11

About Dhirendra Kumar

Dhirendra Kumar has earned respect from artisans across Jharkhand. He has retired
from his services in 2014. He was appointed as a Consultant to Ministry for Textiles,
GOI for a year and then again as a consultant to Khadi and Village Industries. One of
the veteran artisans of Jharkhand approached Dhirendra Kumar with a request to form
a company. Dhirendra Kumar expressed his inability as he had no capital to invest.
The same artisan gathered her village artisans together. Some of the artisans
contributed a fund of Rs 1,000/- each to start the company. Kumar was so touched by
this gesture that he immediately left his assignment with Khadi Village Industries. He
formed a company by adding his own amount to the fund given by artisans. Now he is
connected with more than 3 lac artisans and Central Tasar Institute, Jharkhand.

Recommendation
Lugam is newly started and is the best option among all to buy Tasar sarees and
stoles from. I specially visited his office and production unit in Sikni. Currently
Lugam has production units at Sikni and Hazaribaugh. One more unit is in pipeline.
They are fanned out to many states in India and are into exports also.

Challenge
Lugam is working on customized products for customers. Hence I could see very few
samples available with them. Lugam does not have website, facebook page or even
catalogue to share with. Lugam needs to create an on-line Design Catalogue.

11
I browsed through website: Dhirendra Kumar:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhirendra_Kumar on 11th November 2017
15
 Trained staff members of Lugam at Sikni working on Tasar cocoons

Dr Ataullah is a Naturopath, started weaving unit at his place as he wants to provide

employment for women. Production of Lugam sarees is taking place at Sikni Silk
Cluster under his supervision.

16
Samples bought from Lugam

Tasar x Tasar dyed Dobby Saree with self design, Rs 5,000/-

Baha Saree, Rs 1,000/-

Cotton x Cotton saree with Zari, Rs 1,200/-

17
Tasar x Tasar Sohrai motifs hand block printed Dupatta, Rs 1,400/-

Saree in the photograph below was on display. Sample is not bought.

ff

Phuta Saree cost Rs 8,500/-

18
 B. Jharkhand State Khadi and Village Industries Board
(Govt. of Jharkhand Undertaking)

Contact Person: Sanjay Seth, Chairman

Address: Udyog Bhawan, 2nd Floor, Ratu Road, Ranchi 834001, Jharkhand
Contact details: 9431105882, bjp.sanjay@gmail.com
GSTIN: 20AAALJ0287E2ZM

Sunil Kharsawa looks after production unit at Aamda Showroom

About Jharkhand State Khadi and Village Industries Board

I conducted a detailed meeting with Sanjay Seth, Chairman in his office on 30th
October. I also visited emporia in Ranchi and Aamda. The emporia are having a good
footfall and these showrooms are popular especially among foreign tourists. These are
modernized Khadi showrooms.

Currently the Khadi Board sells the articles that are bought from weavers of
Jharkhand, Bihar, Odisha and West Bengal. The Khadi Board is expanding in terms of
business. Sericulture activity is being conducted in-house with the help of tribal
communities.

I paid a visit to spinning and reeling units in Aamda, a four hour drive from Ranchi.
The unit is going to start in-house weaving activity by February 2018.

19
Recommendation
This is a very good unit for sourcing Tasar, Katia and Giccha Sarees and stoles.
Ranchi and Aamda showrooms have contemporary collections on display. A small
square sample of Giccha fabric is sent to Titan to get an idea about silk quality.

Pre Cocoon activity at Aamda

Training and production section, Aamda

Showroom in Ranchi

20
Pictures of sarees & stoles on display.
Only Photography has been done. Samples are not bought from this place.

Tasar plain saree Rs 3,500/- Available in all the colours like Red, Blue, Green etc

Giccha Saree: Rs 5,300/-

21
Sona Churi Saree Rs 11,200/-

Baluchari Saree: Rs 6,000/-

22
Kotaki Print on Tasar Saree: Rs 4,800/-
Available colours of sarees are seen in the picture right above

Katia/Matka Tusar Saree in Natural Dyes: Rs 5,300/-

Tasar x Tasar Stole: Rs 1,000/- Available in range of colours

23
Katia Stole: Rs 1,400/-

Katia Stole: Rs 1,800/-

24
 C. Jharkhand Silk, Textile & Handicraft Development Corporation
Ltd (Jharcraft)

Contact Person: Renu Gopinath Panickker, CEO

Contact person for Titan: K Abhilasha
Address: DIC Campus, Ratu Road, Ranchi 834001, Jharkhand
Contact details: 7781002458, abhilashanftn@gmail.com
GSTIN: 20AABCJ9369H1ZI

About Jharcraft
This is a Government Undertaking. The organization had around 50 emporia across
India as of 2014, however today the number is in single digit. I had a face to face
meeting with Renu Gopinath Panickker, CEO and K Abhilasha, Design and Product
Head. Both of them are forthcoming to expand business across India.12

Products of Jharcraft are of good quality with contemporary designs. However artisans
have lost faith in Jharcraft owing to irregular payment issues. Since 2014, decision
makers of Jharcraft have changed too often.13 This has resulted in delayed payments to
artisans.

12
I conducted detailed meeting with Renu Gopinath Panickker, CEO and K
Abhilasha, Design and Product Head of Jharcraft on 30th October 2017
13
I browsed through website: Jharcraft misses boss…once glamorous corporation
without MD:
https://www.telegraphindia.com/1160805/jsp/jharkhand/story_100579.jsp on 11th
November 2017

25
An artisan, who has stopped providing articles to Jharcraft, shared above information
with me in Ranchi.

Precaution to be taken
 Jharcraft uses Ahimsa Silk Tag for all its silk products, which is unethical. So
while sourcing sarees from Jharcraft a care needs to be taken.

Artisans at work, Jharcraft office in Ranchi

Jharcraft Staff member, Kiran, helped to select samples for Titan

26
 Shibori sarees on display

Tribal cotton sarees worn during Puja on display

27
Samples bought from Jharcraft

Tasar x Tasar: Hand Painted Dumka Nagada Mandar Patterns of Tribal Motifs
Rs 6,099/- 15 % discount offered, cost after discount Rs 5,184/-

Tasar x Tasar saree with hand embroidery

Rs 8,260/- 15 % discount offered, cost after discount Rs 7,021/-

Tasar x Eri saree with Kantha embroidery

Rs 10,140/- 15 % discount offered, cost after discount Rs 8,619/-

28
Mulberry x Eri Saree
Rs 3,199/- 15 % discount offered, cost after discount Rs 2,719/-

Cotton x Cotton Saree: Tribals and urban dwellers wear it during Chhat Puja
Rs 1,860/- 15 % discount offered, cost after discount Rs 1,581/-

Cotton x Cotton saree

Rs 1,149/- 50 % discount offered, cost after discount Rs 624/-

29
 Eri x Eri Kantha Stole
Rs 1,460/- 15 % discount offered, cost after discount Rs 1,241/-

Eri x Eri hand embroiderred stole

Rs 670/- 15 % discount offered, cost after discount Rs 570/-

30
More samples on display. Only photography has been done

Tasar x Tasar Jadu Patua hand painted saree Rs 6,000/-

Tasar x Eri saree with Sohrai hand painted saree Rs 10,000/- onwards

Madhubani Sohrai hand painted saree Rs 12,000/- onwards

31
Mulberry Silk with Jacquard motifs saree Rs 7,000/-

Tasar x Tasar saree with Kantha embroidery Rs 8,260/-

Tasar x Tasar saree with Kantha embroidery Rs 8,000/- onwards

32
Tasar x Giccha saree with block prints Rs 4,400/-

Tasar x Tasar saree with block prints Rs 4,700/-

Mulberry x Eri Saree Rs 3,199/-

33
Mulberry x Eri Saree Rs 3,199/-

Mulberry x Cotton saree with screen printing Rs 2,600/-

Mulberry x Cotton saree with Bagh prints Rs 2,600/-

34
Linen x Cotton saree with hand block prints Rs 3,300/-

Tasar x Eri saree Rs 4,500/-

Tasar x Tasar Sohrai hand embroidery. Hand embroidered border on both the sides of
the saree Rs 12,000/-

35
Cotton x Cotton Saree: Rs 1,860/- Tribals and urban dwellers wear it during Chhat
Puja

Kurti Set in Giccha x Mulberry Rs 1,195/- Only top can be stitched out of this fabric
2.60 meters. The fabric is very thin which needs lining

Tasar x Tasar Stole, Hand Painted and hand embroidered: Rs 725/-

36
 D. Animation Rural Outreach Service Society (AROUSE)
Contact Person: Anuranjan Purty, Director14
Address: AROUSE Society, Sisai Road, Gumla, 835207, Jharkhand
Contact details: 9546496267
GSTIN: Registration not yet done
Note: Tribal woolen shawls, sarees and Gamcha is the specialty of this organization.
Sarees and Gamcha were not available for sale. 6 Handlooms are in operation.

Sample bought from AROUSE Gumla

Woolen Stole of Urao Tribe of Jharkhand: Rs 600/-

Another colour available on display. Only photography is done for green stole.

14
I conducted a detailed meeting at AROUSE with Anuranjan Purty, director on 1st
November 2017 in Gumla, Jharkhand
37
 E. Pooja Shree, a shop in Singhbhum
Name of the shop:Pooja Shree

Address: Dayal Market, Main Road, Jadugoda, East Singhbhum, Jharkhand 832102

GSTIN: 20AENPD6350H1ZU

Note: This shop sells cotton sarees draped during festivals. The shopkeeper is
wholeseller and is not aware of details of weavers of these sarees. Contact details are
not available apart from postal address.

A Tribal Saree sample bought from the shop

Tribal Cotton Saree: Rs 400/-

38
5. Other institutes visited
I visited following institutes from remote interiors of Jharkhand so as to understand
more about weaving process:

1. Adhaar Mahila Shilp Udyog, Bundu

2. Sanskriti Museum, Harzaribaug
3. Rural Mart and Urban Haat, Hazaribaug
4. Bagaicha, an NGO, Ranchi
5. Central Tasar Training and Research Institute, Patrachauli near Ranchi
6. Khadi Gramodyog’s spinning unit, Aamda
7. Amadubi Rural Tourism Centre, Panijiva

Office of Adhaar Mahila Shilp Udyog in action: block printing and embroidery

I visited Sanskriti Museum in Hazaribaug, to study Santal Mud Houses and how the
motifs painted on Santal houses reflect in the weaving, embroidery, block printing,
etc.

In the picture below I am flanked by Bulu Imam and Elizabeth Imam from Sanskriti
Museum.

39
6. Santal
The Santal tribe is indigenous tribe found mainly in the states of Jharkhand, West
Bengal, Bihar, Odisha and Assam (part of the Tea Tribes). This is one of the largest
tribal communities in India. 15

Santal people are very simple in nature and are known for their own clothings and
distinctive draping styles.

6.1. Clothing History of Santals

In earlier days Santals used to wear very simple cotton clothes. For women there was
a two piece cloth called Palhand (on bottom) and Pancchi (top). It was being used
without petticoat and blouse. Earlier days Santals cultivated cotton along with rice and
some other grains. They were aware of spinning yarns on takli. They used to spin
yarns and give it to the local weavers to weave.

I clicked this tribal lady in Panijiya area of Jharkhand.

15
I browsed through website: Santal: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santhal_people on
15th November 2017
40
In earlier days the women used to visit dense jungle for gathering fruits. The
traditional garments viz. the palhand and panchhi were designed to suit their daily
routine. The palhand had a width of 3ft just to wear below the knee and length of 5ft
to drape around. The pancchi was of 4ft long and 2 ½ ft wide. Neither palhand nor the
panchi had colored borders on it even though there was selvedge on both edges.

The palhand was wrapped on the waist tightly and folded from one side of the waist to
another in the front with the excess length. The panchhi was tucked on the waist inside
the bottom wear in the front and then moved around the waist and put on the left
shoulder. The extra fabric was again pulled to the front and tucked on the left side
waist. The panchhi was being used more functionally. In olden days women did not
carry bags. They used to make a pouch of the panchhi by tucking it’s both the sides
near waist.

With gradual improvement of economic conditions, women started wearing saree

woven by the weavers. The length was then 12ft and width 3 ½ ft. The women wore
the white saree with no coloured borders until they discovered the colouring of yarn.
They used Aal as the main ingredient for dyeing with Harda (Terminalia chebula).16

I took this photo of tribal lady in Panijiya area of Jharkhand

Note: I bought samples of Tribal sarees. These are worn during Sohrai, the harvest
festival of Santals. I did not get traditional two piece saree in the shops.

16
I browsed through website: Santal Sarees:
http://kherwalsantal.blogspot.in/2011/05/clothing-of-santals.html on 17th November
2017
41
7. Santal Paintings
On the borders of Jharkhand, Bengal and Orissa, live the Magic Painters also called
Jadu Patua. These communities of Magic painters draw the Santal Tribal Paintings,
which are the expressions of their community life. These painters are called Magic
Painters because they paint to preserve the crops, avert diseases and honor the dead
and so on.

Santal Paintings are done on handmade paper with organic colours. Since Santal is
basically an agricultural community, the themes drawn are mostly about nature,
farming, harvesting, marriages, dancing and other celebrations. 17

I visited Amadubi Rural Tourism Centre in Panijiva near Jamshedpur. A sample

painting of Tribal women wearing saree is bought for Titan. The picture is about
auspicious activities carried out during festivities.

Recommendation
It will be good to frame this picture of tribal ladies draped in Sarees in Titan Boutique
along with wedding collection of Rumi.

17
I jotted down the information about Santal Paintings from “Do it yourself
educational activity Kit” of Potli, a bag of wonders on 17th November 2017
42
8. Mud Houses of Jharkhand
The dying traditional mud houses of villages in Jharkhand are those whose
architectural style is comparable only to European homes. The walls are made up of a
special type of mud obtained by souring earth by adding vegetable waste and leaving
it to mature. The decaying waste improves the mud’s plasticity. This mud is then
mixed with cow dung, chopped straw and gavel to make raw material for walls. The
roofs are made up of sun-dried or burnt-clay tiles.

The walls are beautified with traditional Sohrai paintings or Santal art which is
painted by the women of the family. Due to the thermal properties of mud, in
summers these houses remain cool and warm in winters. 18

Motifs like fish, snake, flowers, tiger and peacock are commonly seen on the mud
houses.

18
I jotted down notes on Mud Houses of Jharkhand from “Diy Origami Coloring Kit:
Mud Huts of Jharkhand” of Potli, a bag of wonders on 17th November 2017
43
Beautiful Sohrai Paintings on Mud Houses in Hazaribaug area

Justine Imam, my guide in Hazaribaug is seen in the picture.

44
9. Tribal Paitings on Textiles
My interactions and meetings with painters, embroiders, block printers and textile
designers gave me an insight into the influence of the architecture on imagination and
creativity of artisans. These beautiful motifs have come to creative canvas of
Jharkhand.

Santal Paintings are done on textiles and a sample saree depicting Dumka Nagada
Mandar Patterns is bought for Titan.

Fish motif is commonly seen on walls of mud houses. The same has been seen on
textiles too.

On the stole Fish motifs are hand painted and Kantha embroidery is done around the
fish. This stole was on display in Jharcraft showroom in Ranchi.

45
On the stole Fish motifs are hand block printed. This stole is bought from Lugam for
Titan.

On the saree Fish motifs are hand embroidered. This saree was on display in Jharcraft
showroom in Ranchi.

Recommendation
Huge scope lies in the future to work with painters, block printers, embroiders to come
up with tribal designs on sarees, stoles and dupatta. Among urban dwellers, such
textiles will be sold like hot cakes.

46
10. Inherent Limitations of the state of Jharkhand
 It was a challenge to visit certain regions as weaving units were in the Naxal
areas. That’s why I had to travel during the day time, which otherwise could
have been used to visit more weaving units.
 Also another technological limitation was of poor mobile network connectivity.
 Railway connects with the remote places and runs only during night. It is not
advisable mode of transport as railway schedules are not followed properly.
 Bus services are not operating in these areas. Taxi services are popular
however road conditions are bad.

47
11. Annexure: Important Contacts visited during visit
Sr. Organization Contact Address Phone No. GST
No. Person And Email No.
1 Lugam Direndra Abhinav Silk Pvt 9771434645 Yes
Kumar, Ltd, Ashreya,
IFS, Behind Sirdi Sai dk@lugam.in
(Retired) Hospital, Bariatu,
Ranchi 834009,
Jharkhand
2 Jharkhand Sanjay Udyog Bhawan, 9431105882 Yes
State Khadi Seth, 2nd Floor, Ratu
and Village Chairman Road, Ranchi bjp.sanjay@gmail.com
Industries 834001,
Board Jharkhand
(Govt. of
Jharkhand
undertaking)
3 Jharcraft K DIC Campus, Ratu 7781002458 Yes
(Govt. of Abhilasha, Road, Ranchi
Jharkhand Design & 834001, abhilashanftn@gmail.com
undertaking) Product Jharkhand
Head
4 AROUSE: Anuranjan AROUSE Society, 9546496267 No
Animation Purty, Sisai Road,
Rural Director Gumla, 835207,
Outreach Jharkhand
Service
Society
5 Sikni Silk Dr Ramgarh, Sikni, 7739207939 with
Cluster Ataullah Jharkhand 825101 Lugam
6 The Chhota Director Weavers’ Union Did not ask more details as -
Nagpur Ltd, IRBA, hand woven sarees are not
Regional Ranchi 835217, available with them
Handloom Jharkhand
7 Adhaar Reshma Block Road, 9546285745 No
Mahila Shilp Dutta Bundu 835204,
Udyog Jharkhand
Swawlambi
Sahyog
Samity Ltd
8 Sanskriti Bulu Imam Dipugarha, P O 9905339231, 06546264820 No
Museum and Hazaribaugh
Art Gallery 825301, Jharkhand

48