Z A R D O Z I

The Aari Zar dozi

Embroidery of Ahmedabad

K n i t w e a r D e s i g n D e p a r t m e n t
N a t i o n a l I n s t i t u t e o f
F a s h i o n T e c h n o l o g y

New Delhi
2022

 Study and survey of the Craft and Documentation by students of 

National Institute Fashion Technology, New Delhi

Aman Raj
Bharti Prakash
Dhriti Mitra
Garima Singh
Snehal Tiwari
Sugandh Satsangi

Knitwear Design Department

Semester 5, 2022

Copy right @National Institute of Fashion Technology, Year 2022

 All rights reserved: no part of this book may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system or transmitted
in any form by means of electronic, mechanical, photo copying, recording or otherwise without prior
permission from National Institute Fashion Technology, except by a review/reader who wishes to quote
brief passage in connection with a paper review/essay written for inclusion in a periodical, newspaper
or broadcast. 

Faculty guide/Mentor(s): Prof. Dr.Vandana Bhandari

                                         Dr. Upinder Kaur 
                                         Dr. Priyanka Gupta
Photographs by: Aman Raj
Illustrations by: Snehal Tiwari

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This document could not have been completed without the support, encouragement and participation of a
number of people and we highly appreciate their contributions.This craft cluster documentation was not only
an extremely informative and a unique experience for all of us but has also helped us look at the craft of Aari
Zardozi very closely at an industrial level and from the point of view of the artisans who have mastered this
craft. 

Firstly the group would like to thank Ms. Manisha Kinnu , Director NIFT New Delhi and Ms. Smita Som CIC
NIFT New Delhi and Assistant Professor, for giving us this opportunity to study the craft of Aari Zardozi from
Ahmedabad. We would like to extend our heartfelt gratitude to Prof. Dr. Vandana Bhandari our faculty mentor,
who helped us throughout the document and helped in its successful completion. We would also like to thank
Dr. Upinder Kaur, Associate Professor, and Dr. Priyanka Gupta Associate Professor, for helping us in the initial
stages of research and with the final documentation of our research. The group would also like to thank Mr. Asif
Sheth and his son Tanvir Vohra without whom the research would not have been possible. We extend deep
gratitude towards Uzaif Vohra, younger brother of Asif Sheth and all other artisans who helped us throughout
the project and took out time from their packed schedules to share some knowledge about the craft and give
us a peek into their lives. 

Lastly we would like to thank all of our Friends and Family who helped us throughout the process of the craft
initiative. We are extremely grateful towards NIFT, New Delhi for organising a very successful educational trip
to Ahmedabad and providing us with the opportunity of meeting the artisans in person and gaining utmost
knowledge from them.

04

Group members learning zardozi embroidery from artisan Abdul Sattar- Photograph by Aman Raj
 ABSTRACT

As a part of the study and research of the Craft Cluster initiative by the
National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, the students of
the Knitwear Design Department, Semester 5, Documented the craft
of extreme patience, intricacy and hard work- Aari Zardozi from
Ahmedabad. Aari Zardozi is a type of embroidery that originated in
Persia. “Zar” literally means gold and “dozi” means embroidery. This
type of heavy, unique and highly detailed embroidery was introduced
by Mughal conquerors in different parts of Gujarat but currently it is
mainly done in the heart of the state, Ahmedabad or locally called
Amdavad. Our group consisting of 6 members got the opportunity to
interview the Zardoz(artisans who have mastered this craft) in
Ahmedabad. We learnt the entire process of Zardozi embroidery with
the help of artisans, from preparing the design to giving final finishes
to the fully embroidered fabric. Through this research, we
encapsulated the strengths as well as the shortcomings of this
embroidery. The Cluster visit gave us an opportunity to connect with
artisans personally who have been involved with this craft for many
years, and know more about their opinions and viewpoints on the
growth of Aari Zardozi work within the country and globally.

We have tried to summarise our experiences and learnings in this

Document to explain the process, importance and value of Aari
Zardozi embroidery and provide more information on it.

06

 Contents

BACKGROUND AND PROVENANCES 10

ABOUT THE CRAFT 24

ABOUT THE MAKERS 58

MARKET AND MARKETING CHANNELS 78

ISSUES AND CHALLENGES 81

REFERENCE 88
 GLOSSARY

Aari The hook like needle used in the embroidery. Literally

means a small saw.

Zardozi “Zar” means gold and “dozi” means embroidery in

Persian.

Zari Flat metallic thread

Gaji silk Type of fabric in which right side is silk and the wrong
side is cotton

Kasab thread Golden thread used in the process of embroidery

Chaniya It is a colourful skirt or petticoat like garment that is

worn by women

Choli It is a colourful blouse worn along with the chaniya

Mihrab A niche in the wall of a mosque, at the point nearest

to Mecca, towards which the congregation faces to
pray
Butis Small embroidered flowers

Karkhana A place for work

Khaat A wooden frame like structure on which the fabric is

secured. Literally means bed

Sutli Dhaaga Twine

PoP Plaster of Paris

Jutti Slip-on style footwear for women

Potli A small bag with a drawstring that looks like a bundle

when strings are pulled

Dhokla, fafda, thepla, sev khaman, khandvi, patra, Gujarati food items
khakhra

Sui Needle

Marodi Embroidery by twisting the thread

B A C K G R O U N D A N D
P R O V E N A N C E S
 Design inspired by Gujarati architecture- Photograph by Bharti Prakash

Design done by one of the group members using Haath Aari needle- Photograph by Aman Raj

Floral motifs done in Zardozi embroidery- Photograph by Aman Raj

 INTRODUCTION

As per researchers and historians, there have been traces of embroidery from before the sixteenth century,
after bronze needles were discovered at the Harappan site of Mohenjodaro which indicates the knowledge of
sewing. Enough evidence is there that shows zari(flat metallic thread) was used to do embroidery on sheer
cotton during the Mughal Period and thereafter.

Aari Zardozi was always a craft of royalty and nobility which was extensively used during the Mughal era. “Zar”
means gold and “dozi” means embroidery, an extremely intricate and captivating form of craft was used to
decorate interiors of the court and court dresses which were basically scintillating precious metals on lustrous
fabrics.

Aari Zardozi work is mostly done on Gaji silk, semi raw silk or cotton slub and sometimes on pure silk. The main
materials and tools that the artisans require to do the embroidery are the Khaat where the fabric is stretched
out, coloured silk threads, copper sequins, zardozi thread, Kasab thread, Aari needle, regular sewing needle,
beads and other decorative elements.
This type of embroidery is also done in other parts of India however they only differ in terms of the design and
sometimes the materials from the Zardozi work of Ahmedabad.  Artisans in Ahmedabad, who have been
working with this craft for more than a decade not only come from Gujarat but also from other states of the
country like Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and West Bengal.

The process of this embroidery begins with first preparing the design, transferring it on the fabric and finally
embroidering the entire design on the fabric which inturn is sewed to create a garment. The time period in
which the entire embroidery is completed depends upon the garment that is ultimately made out of the fabric.
Regular blouse pieces take less time than the Chaniya Cholis which are heavily embellished. Artisans have
plenty of work just before Diwali and Dussehra mostly in the months of August and September as there is high
demand for Zardozi blouses, Chaniya Cholis etc during the festive season. But at a certain time of the year the
work is less due to lower demand and hence it affects the income of the artisans.

Zardozi embroidery as a product is expensive, needs maintenance and therefore caters to a very small section
of the market. With time its demand is reducing, and is only appreciated and worn by people who truly
understand the value and importance of this craft. Young people like Tanvir who are so passionate about the
craft can make a big difference and help this art of gold reach newer heights.

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 AMDAVAD

The city of Ahmedabad is situated in the heart of Gujarat on the banks of river Sabarmati. It is named after
Sultan Ahmed Shah who founded the city in 1411. Popularly known as Amdavad among the locals, this city has
witnessed the rule of many dynasties which include the Mughals, Marathas as well as the British. It is the largest
and the most important city in Gujarat. Ahmedabad is endowed with rich cultural and architectural heritage
which also define the identity of the local Amdavadis. The city has boomed as an important textile industry and
hence is called the ‘Manchester of East’.

14
Sabarmati riverfront- Photograph by Aman Raj
 Sabarmati riverfront- Photograph by Aman Raj

GEOGRAPHY

Ahmedabad is located on the banks of the River Sabarmati in the northern part of Gujarat and the western part
of India. The average elevation is 53 metres.

There are typically three main seasons – summer, monsoon and winter. The climate is mostly very dry except in
the monsoon season. During the months of March to June the weather is extremely hot with the average
summer temperature ranging from maximum 43 °C to minimum 23 °C. The months of November to February
have an average maximum temperature 36 °C and a minimum of 15 °C. 
Ahmedabad is divided by the Sabarmati into two physically distinct areas. The eastern side consists of the old
city which has packed bazaars and many places of worship like temples and mosques.

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Artisans at the Ahmedabad Haat- Photograph by Aman Raj Artisans at the Ahmedabad Haat- Photograph by Aman Raj

Artisan Sayeed Ansari- Photograph By Aman Raj

 PEOPLE AND COMMUNITIES

Residents of Ahmedabad are mainly native Gujarati who speak local Gujarati. There is also a sizeable
population of Punjabis, Marathis, Tamils, Sindhis, Malayalis and Marwaris who bring in their native language
and culture to the city. The population has increased exponentially followed by the increase in economic
expansion and modernisation.
There is enough religious diversity in Ahmedabad as the city consists of Hindus, Muslims, Jains and even a
small section of Christians. The Muslim community is large and significant since the Sultanate Period. It is also
the home for Parsis. Patidars form the main community of this city.

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Handvo at Swati Snacks- Photograph by Akshat Yadav

 FOOD

Amdavadis have a special love for food. A typical Gujarati

thali meal consists of roti, rice, daal and shaak. Dhokla, fafda,
thepla, sev khaman, khandvi, patra, khakhra are extremely
popular among the people of Ahmedabad. Gujarati food
usually is on the sweeter side with generous use of ghee in
the preparation of dishes. The old city is known for its street
food, bakeries, naan and Nankhatai. These mouth watering
food items make both your stomach and heart happy.

Jalebi Fafda at Manek Chowk- Photograph by Akshat Yadav

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Ahmedabad Haat- Photograph by Aman Raj

Teen Darwaza- Photograph by Bharti Prakash

Kankaria Lake- Photograph by Aman Raj
 PLACES TO VISIT

There are several places in Ahmedabad that are known for their speciality in folk art. Paldi area
is famous for the embroidery from Kutch and Saurashtra region. Rangeela pol is famous for
bandhani while Madhupura is famous for its traditional Mojri footwear. In the Gulbai Tekra area
Ganesha idols are made in huge numbers. Other must visit places of ahmedabad are 

• Sabarmati Riverfront
• Law Garden
• Teen Darwaza
• Adalaj ki Vav
• Kankaria Lake
• Sabarmati Ashram
• Ahmedabad Haat
• Manek Chowk

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A B O U T T H E C R A F T
Elephant motif done in Zardozi embroidery- Photograph by Aman Raj
 ORIGIN AND HISTORY OF AARI ZARDOZI

Aari Zardozi embroidery was heavily used in the Mughal courts for floor spreads, bolsters, hanging, canopies
and court dresses. These were made of the finest fabric and embroidered with silk and zari thread. During the
mid seventeenth century, Frenchman Francois Bernier stated that in Aurangzeb’s Court women’s bodices were
worth ten to twelve crowns. These represented fine workmanship of artisans. He also observed that embroidery
was done with  regular needles as well as a hook like needle(aari needle) for imperial production.
 
Under the Mughal administration embroiderers served in the imperial workshops which had been established
in the major regions under the Mughal rule such as Ahmedabad.

Bernier also explained the working system of these workshops. He documented that all the artisans occupied
big halls or karkhanas for working with one man as their supervisor. Bernier also explained the hereditary nature
of the craft and the caste system that significantly persists in India. Artisans came in the morning, worked the
whole day long and finally went back home without aspiring anything more than what they were doing.

The designs which were made during Aurangzeb’s time were inspired from Persian aesthetics and Indian
traditions. Mihrab, butis or small floral motifs and patkas were very typical of the Mughal style. Many of these
were done with satin stitch using silk floss and metallic threads.

A plethora of Aari Zardozi embroidery types evolved over the time- kamdani zari was done directly on the
fabric, badla work featured flattened metallic strips laid on fabric while in mukesh metal strips were stitched
through the fabric using the point of the strip instead of a needle to form small dots or fardis along with the
use of eyelets and sequins.

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 Various motifs and designs done in Zardozi and Marodi work-

Photographs by Aman Raj

Various motifs and designs done in Zardozi and Marodi work- Photographs by Aman Raj

 DISPERSION OF IMPERIAL WORKSHOPS

The ‘golden age’ of the Mughals began to decline after the death of Aurangzeb in 1707. Due to constant warfare
and court retrenchment, crafts began to diminish and the imperial workshops at Ahmedabad, Delhi and Lahore
were dispersed. The Gujarati artisans found work in the local courts and started to embroider for the local royalty
and nobility. They produced dresses for special ceremonies and festivals which were lavishly decorated and
embroidered with heavy gold zardozi on silk or velvet.

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Haath Aari needle- Photograph by Aman Raj Spring-like Zardozi thread- Photograph by Aman Raj Plaster of Paris and Kerosene mixture- Photograph by Aman Raj

Artisan Uzaif Vohra fixing the fabric on the Khaat- Photograph by Aman Raj
 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

• Khaat
• Butter paper on which the design is developed
• A liquid composition of  Plaster of Paris and Kerosene
• Haath Aari needle
• Sui or regular needle
• Zardozi sui
• Coloured silk thread
• Golden kasab thread
• Zardozi thread
• Copper sequin
• Other embellishments like beads, mirrors etc
• Fabric

The major tools and raw materials which are used in the process of Aari Zardozi are locally available in the markets of
Ahmedabad. However they are manufactured in Surat. The artisan buys the materials in bulk which benefits them in the
amount they spend in procuring the tools and raw materials.

30

Wooden logs that are used to make the Khaat- Photograph by Aman Raj
Artisan engrossed in doing embroidery- Photograph by Aman Raj

The khaat is a big square frame made out of wood which holds the fabric on which Aari Zardozi
embroidery is done. It is like the bigger version of the circular embroidery frames on which the
base fabric is tied so that the khaat holds the fabric firmly with the right amount of force and
stretch.

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Design traced on butter paper- Photograph by Aman Raj

Preparation of PoP and kerosene mixture- Photograph by Aman Raj

The liquid mixture of Plaster of Paris and Kerosene is used to transfer the design from the butter paper
to the fabric. The kerosene evaporates and the PoP remains on the fabric on which embroidery is done.

34
Haath Aari needles- Photograph by Aman Raj
Haath Aari needle is different from the regular needle. It is a hook like needle that is attached to
a stick. While embroidering, Aari needle makes a hole in the fabric and the thread can be pulled
both ways. Zardozi thread is embroidered with the regular needle.

36
Spring-like golden Zardozi threads and copper sequins- Photograph by Aman Raj

Golden kasab thread- Photograph by Aman Raj

The coloured silk threads are shiny and extremely vibrant. Zardozi threads are golden and metallic which
resemble a very long and fine spring structure. As we stretch the spring, the spirals convert into a single
thread. Kasab thread is either golden or silver in colour. It is used almost throughout the entire design.

Copper sequins are an important element of Aari Zardozi embroidery. Copper with time corrodes and a
greenish layer forms on it. This gives a very antique finish to the entire garment hence enhancing its value and
beauty.

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Artisan transferring the design from butter paper onto the fabric using the PoP and kerosene mixture- Photograph by Aman Raj

Design on the fabric which is Gaji silk- Photograph by Aman Raj

 PROCESS

• Design development
• Pattern development if a blouse piece or suit piece is to be
embroidered
• Preparing the khaat by securing the fabric on it
• Transferring the design on the fabric
• Embroidering using different materials
• Stitching the fabric into a clothing item like blouse, kurta, skirt
or an entire garment such as the chaniya choli.

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Blouse piece pattern and design that is traced on the butter paper- Photograph by Aman Raj
Aari Zardozi is a work of utmost patience, intricacy and skill level. First the artisan makes the design on paper.
The designs can vary depending upon the clothing item that is to be made finally. The design is drawn free
hand on paper by repeating different motifs. The final complete design is then traced on a butter paper.
Miniscule holes are made all throughout the design on the butter paper which helps in transferring the design
on the fabric.

42
Uzaif Vohra(Asif Sheth’s younger brother) attaching the fabric to the Khaat- Illustration by Snehal Tiwari
As we know the khaat is a square frame made out of wood logs. The size of the khaat is adjusted as per the
length of the fabric and then it is secured to the frame. Artisans use a sewing needle and sutli dhaaga to secure
the fabric on the khaat so that it holds the fabric firmly with the required amount of force and stretch. The khaat
keeps the fabric taut on which embroidery can be done easily.

44
PoP and kerosene mixture- Illustration by Snehal Tiwari
The artisan then prepares a liquid mixture of Plaster of Paris and kerosene. The butter paper with the design is
placed on the fabric and using a cotton cloth, the PoP mix is applied on the butter paper. During this process
the mixture seeps in through the holes created on the butter paper and the design is transferred to the fabric.
Kerosene evaporates in a while and only the PoP remains.

47
Artisan working on the embroidery- Illustration by Snehal Tiwari
After the design gets transferred, the artisan starts working the embroidery. Both Aari needle and regular
needle are used for embroidery. They take 10 to 20 days to finish a piece depending upon the final garment or
product that is made from the fabric. Chaniya cholis take more time than blouse pieces. When the embroidery
is complete the fabric is sent to be stitched into a garment and then it is sold to customers.

48
Artisan doing Marodi work- Illustration by Snehal Tiwari
In the embroidery different types of stitches and techniques are used. French knots and chain
stitches are very common. Chatai(mat weave) and chhalle are also created. To fill bigger areas satin
and chain stitches are used.

50
Tools for Pitai- Photograph by Sugandh Satsangi
Sometimes they also use the pita technique to give more shine to the embroidery. In this a wooden hammer like structure is
used to beat the areas done with kasab thread and sequins. As the sequins and threads are metallic in nature, the beating
flattens them out and makes them more lustrous.

52
 Zardozi border- Photograph by Aman Raj

Peacock motif- Photograph by Aman Raj

Animal face motif- Photograph by Aman Raj Different borders done in Zardozi and Marodi embroidery- Photograph by Bharti Prakash
 DESIGN AND MOTIFS

The motifs and designs are inspired from architecture, Mughal as well as Persian art. The artisans try to pick elements from their
surroundings like plants, animals, flowers etc. The most common motifs used are the peacock, parrot, elephant, elephant and floral
motifs.

Peacock is a very important motif not only in the craft of Aari Zardozi but in almost all the crafts of Gujarat. It depicts the expression of
literature, music, art, dance and culture. It is always associated with the hindu God Krishna and hence is considered to be divine and
auspicious. The peacock motif is never used in the embroidery done on juttis and chappals as it is considered disrespectful. The people
of Gujarat consider the peacock as not only their national bird but also as their state bird.

The overall design that is created by the artisan is mostly symmetrical. Even if the design is asymmetrical, it is extremely balanced and
all the motifs together look harmonious. Usually the artisan creates one motif and then repeats it in different places. Florals and leaves
are used to fill up the area and a lot of architectural designs inspired from the mughals are used to make the borders of blouse sleeves,
chaniya cholis etc. Artisans have continued to use traditional motifs and designs over many decades.

54

Elephant motifs on Chaniya Choli- Photograph by Aman Raj

Neck design of blouse piece- Photograph by Aman Raj

Potli done in Zardozi and Marodi work- Photograph by Aman Raj
 PRODUCT

After the embroidery is complete on the fabric it is then stitched into a clothing item. Aari Zardozi items are expensive and are affordable to only a
certain section of the market. Usually people purchase chaniya cholis and heavily embroidered suit pieces during weddings. The maximum sale of
products happens near the months of Navratri and Diwali from September to November.
 
Asif Sheth, who himself is an artisan, runs his boutique Tanvir where he sells the final products done with Aari Zardozi and Marodi embroidery. Artisans
working under him work on a variety of products like blouse pieces, chaniya cholis, suit pieces, potli bags etc. Asif Sheth also has his own stitching
unit which is managed by his wife and they make their own garment patterns. They sew and construct the final product that is to be sold at the
boutique..

Costing of the products is done according to the intricacy of the embroidery, cost of raw materials and fabric and the profit that needs to be made.
The cost of suit pieces start with Rs.3500, potlis cost around Rs.1500 and the price range of heavily embroidered chaniya cholis vary from Rs.20,000 to
Rs.70,000 at Asif Sheth’s boutique.

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A B O U T T H E M A K E R S
Artisan Asif Sheth and his son Tanvir Vora - Illustration by Aman Raj
 ABOUT THE MAKERS

Most of the artisans working under Asif Sheth come from various states. Some locally belong to Ahmedabad while some come from
Kolkata, Lucknow, Patna etc. Artisans from Kolkata come for work to Gujarat in large numbers. It was an enriching experience to speak
to artisans who work so hard on this craft on a day to day basis, and know about their opinions and viewpoints on this glittery craft of
Aari Zardozi. Here are the artisan profilings of a few artisans we got the opportunity to interact with.

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Artisan Sheikh Abdul Sattar, Illustration by Snehal Tiwari
 Artisan’s Name-  Sheikh Abdul Sattar

Artisan’s Age- 73
DESIGN & amp; TECHNOLOGY
Artisan’s Sex: Male
Who gives the design- Employer
Education level of artisan - Studied till 6th grade
Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of
Languages known- Hindi, Gujarati
any change of location- No
Size of the family unit – Male 2, Female 1
Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional- No
Which craft are you associated with- Aari Zardozi, Marodi
Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
For how many years the craft has been practiced by family- 59
the handicraft only-  Master craftsmen
Family members participating in craft - yes, son
Are you self employed - No
Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week – 84 hours( depending on design)
Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Design and Marketing
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity-  6 – 9 months
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom- No
TRAINING
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - August to November
Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills- No
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft- No
Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities- Yes
Are you a member of any of the following organisations-  None 
Do you need further training- Yes
1) SHGs  2) Cooperative 
In which of the following areas would you want to be trained- Skill Development 
3) Society 4) any other 
Do you know how to use Computer - No
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices -Yes 
Do you use the Internet- No 
PRICING
What factors decide the pricing of your products- Local Market Demand 
INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS
Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing - Yes
Current monthly income of the artisan-  18k
Where do you procure raw material from- Nearby Markets
Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials- No
ASSETS
Dwelling- Own House 
MARKETING
Type of House- Pucca 
MEDICAL FACILITY
How do you sell your products- Exports 
Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice - No
Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products- No
Do you have health/ life insurance policy- Yes

62

Artisan Uzaif Vora- Illustration by Snehal Tiwari

 Artisan’s Name- Uzaif Vohra

Artisan’s Age- 35 yrs DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY

Artisan’s Sex- Male Are you working on- Traditional Design, Market Demand Design
Education level of artisan - Primary 10th class Who gives the design- Own
Languages known- Hindi,Gujarati Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of
Size of the family unit – Male 2, Female 1 any change of location- No
Which craft are you associated with- Zardozi,Aari,Marodi. Have you developed any new products in the last two years?
For how many years the craft has been practiced by family- 16 yrs. ________Purse_______________
Family members participating in craft- Brother _________Belt______________
Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week- 90 yrs ________Chappal_______________
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity- Throughout the year Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional- No
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom- No Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - Near diwali the handicraft only-  Master craftsmen 
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft- Not yet Are you self employed - Yes
Are you a member of any of the following organizations- No Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Design 
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices- Not married
TRAINING
INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills-  No 
Current monthly income of the artisan- More than Rs. 22-24k  Do you need further training- No 
Do you have a saving account in the- No In which of the following areas would you want to be trained-  Marketing 
ASSETS Do you know how to use Computer- No
Dwelling- Own House Do you use Internet- Yes
Type of House- Pucca If yes, what do you use it for- Personal
If own house, have you- Purchase  Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet- Yes 
In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following
Electronics- TV PRICING
MEDICAL FACILITY What factors decides the pricing of your products- Labour Cost 
Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice- No Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing- Yes
Where do you procure raw material from- Nearby Markets
Do you have health/ life insurance policy- No Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials- No 

MARKETING
How do you sell your products- Directly to customers,Festivals,. Exports
Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products- No

64

Artisan Asif Ansari - Illustration by Snehal Tiwari

 Artisan’s Name- Asif Ansari

Artisan’s Age- 50 DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY

Artisan’s Sex- Male Are you working on- Market Demand Design 
Education level of artisan- 6th Who gives the design- Old Patterns 
Languages known- Hindi Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional- No 
Size of the family unit - 4 members If yes specify reason- Market Demand
Which craft are you associated with - Aari Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity- 6 – 9 months  the handicraft only- Skilled 
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom- No  Are you self employed - No
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - November Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Production
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft- No
Are you a member of any of the following organizations- No TRAINING
1) SHGs ( ) 2) Cooperative ( ) Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills- No
3) Society ( ) 4) any other ( )  In which of the following areas would you want to be trained- Design Innovation
Do you know how to use Computer-  No
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices-No Do you use the Internet- No
Give reasons for your choice- Wants him to learn driving
PRICING
INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS What factors decide the pricing of your products- Local Market Demand,Labor Cost
Current monthly income of the artisan- 18k Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing- Yes
Do you have a saving account in the- No Where do you procure raw material from- Nearby Markets
Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials- No
ASSETS
Dwelling MARKETING
Own House How do you sell your products- Local Markets
Type of House Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products- No
Semi-Pucca 
Inherited 
In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following- Kitchen
Equipements

MEDICAL FACILITY
Are there any occupational health hazards/diseases linked with your craft practice-Yes,like
backpain
Do you have a health/ life insurance policy- No

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Artisan Salman Qureshi - Illustration by Snehal Tiwari

 Artisan’s Name- Salman Qureshi

Artisan’s Age- 39 DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY

Artisan’s Sex-  Male Are you working on- Latest Design
Education level of artisan- 10th class Who gives the design-  Designers
Languages known- Hindi Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of
Size of the family unit – Male 1 Female 2 any change of location- No
Which craft are you associated with- Zardozi ,Aari,Kachi marodi,Pitawork Have you developed any new products in last two years- Painting
Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week –70 Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional- Yes
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity-  6 – 9 month If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products-Yes sometimes
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom- no Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - mariage season the handicraft only- Skilled
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft- No Are you self employed - Yes
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices- No Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Design
Give reasons for your choice- Because wife is already working as tailor
TRAINING
INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills-  Yes
Current monthly income of the artisan:20k Do you need further training- Yes
From other source 5,6k In which of the following areas would you want to be trained-  Marketing
Do you have a saving account in the- Yes, Bank Do you know how to use Computer- Yes
Do you use Internet- Yes
ASSETS Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet- Yes for the designs 
Dwelling- Own House
Type of House- Pucca PRICING
If own house, have you- Inherited What factors decides the pricing of your products- Labour Cost
In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following: Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing- Yes
Mobile  Where do you procure raw material from-  Local Market
Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials- Yes
MEDICAL FACILITY
If yes then specify – sometimes its not available 
Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice? Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials- No
Yes
If yes, please specify- headache sometime MARKETING
How do you sell your products- Directly to customers, Dealers, Local Markets 
Do you have health/ life insurance policy- No Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products- No

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Artisan Mehzuddin Ansari - Illustration by Snehal Tiwari

 Artisan’s Name-  Mehzuddin Ansari 

Artisan’s Name-  Mehzuddin Ansari  DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY

Artisan’s Age- 41 Are you working on- Traditional Design 
Artisan’s Sex- Male Who gives the design- Old Patterns 
Education level of artisan- Illiterate Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of
Languages known- Hindi any change of location- No
Size of the family unit – Male 2, Female 1, Children 1. Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional- No
Which craft are you associated with- Zardozi Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
For how many years the craft has been practised by family - 10yrs the handicraft only- Skilled 
Family members participating in craft - None Are you self employed - No 
Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week- 84hrs Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Production Packaging, Marketing
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity - Throughout the year
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom-  No TRAINING
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - Festivals  Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills- No
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft-  Ahmedabad, Bareilly. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained- Design Innovation
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices- No Do you know how to use Computer- No
Do you use Internet- No
INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS
Current monthly income of the artisan: - 18-19k PRICING
Do you have a saving account in the- No What factors decides the pricing of your products- Raw Materials, Labour Cost 
Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing- Yes 
ASSETS Where do you procure raw material from- Local Market, Nearby Markets
Dwelling
Own House MARKETING
Type of House How do you sell your products- Festivals, Local Markets
Semi-Pucca  Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products- No
If own house, have you- Inherited 

MEDICAL FACILITY
Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice- No
Do you have health/ life insurance policy- No 

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Artisan Akeel Khan - Illustration by Snehal Tiwari

 Artisan’s Name- Akeel Khan

DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY

Artisan’s Age- 48
Are you working on- Traditional Design,Latest Design
Artisan’s Sex-  Male
Who gives the design- Old Patterns
Education level of artisan- High school
Have you developed any new products in last two years- Tie
Languages known- Hindi,English
Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional-
Size of the family unit – Male 3, Female 3 Children 1.
Yes,chiffon,satin,organza,crepe
Which craft are you associated with- Zardozi, Aari
If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products- Yes
For how many years the craft has been practised by family- 27 yrs
Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
Family members participating in craft - Father
the handicraft only- Master craftsmen
Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week- 82 hours
Are you self employed - Yes 
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity- Throughout the year
Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Production
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom- No
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - Eid,marriage
TRAINING
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft- Lucknow,kolkata
Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skill- No
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices- No
Do you need further training- No
Give reasons for your choice- Wants them to study
In which of the following areas would you want to be trained- Marketing
Do you know how to use Computer- Yes
INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS
Do you use Internet- Yes 
If yes, what do you use it for- Both personal and business purpose
Current monthly income of the artisan- 18-20k
Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet- Yes 
Do you have a saving account in the- No but wife has

PRICING
ASSETS
What factors decide the pricing of your products?
Dwelling- Own House
Raw Materials, Local Market Demand , Labour Cost
Type of House- Pucca 
Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing- Yes 
If own house, have you- Inherited 
Where do you procure raw material from- Agent
In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following- 
Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials- No
None

MARKETING
MEDICAL FACILITY
Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice-
How do you sell your products- Directly to customers, Exports,  Local Markets, Take
Yes,Headache and back pain
custom orders
Do you have health/ life insurance policy- No

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Artisan Islam Nali - Illustration by Snehal Tiwari

 Artisan’s Name- Islam Nali

Artisan’s Age-  32 DESIGN, TECHNOLOGY

Artisan’s Sex- Male
Education level of artisan- 6th class Are you working on- Traditional Design 
Languages known- Hindi Who gives the design- Owner
Size of the family unit – Male 2. Female 2  Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of
Which craft are you associated with- Zardozi,Aari any change of location- Worked mostly in Jaipur 
For how many years the craft has been practised by family- 12 Have you developed any new products in last two years- Chaniya choli
Family members participating in craft - None Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional- No
Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week- 72 If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products- No
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity-  6 – 9 months  Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom- No  the handicraft only- Skilled 
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - Festivals Are you self employed - Yes 
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft- Delhi,Jaipur,Hyderabad Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Design
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices- No 
Give reasons for your choice- Because the artisan thinks it earns him less TRAINING

INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills- No
Do you need further training- No 
Current monthly income of the artisan- 15,16k In which of the following areas would you want to be trained- Design Innovation
Do you have a saving account in the- Yes Do you know how to use Computer- No
ASSETS Do you use Internet- No

Dwelling-Own House  PRICING

Type of House- Pucca  What factors decides the pricing of your products- Labour Cost 
If own house, have you-  Inherited Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing- Yes
In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following- None Where do you procure raw material from- Nearby Markets 
Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials- No
Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials- Yes 
MEDICAL FACILITY
MARKETING
Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice- Yes  How do you sell your products- Shops,exports
If yes, please specify- Sufferers from back pain. Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your product- No

Do you have health/ life insurance policy- No

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 Artisan’s Name- Mohammed faizel

Artisan’s Age- 34 yr DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY

Artisan’s Sex-  Male Are you working on- Traditional Design 
Education level of artisan - 8 th Who gives the design- Old Patterns 
Languages known- Hindi Has there been an adoption of new techniques in development of craft because of
Size of the family unit – 13 members any change of location- No
Which craft are you associated with- Aari,zardozi Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
For how many years the craft has been practiced by family - 15-16yrs the handicraft only- Skilled 
Family members participating in craft - yes(brother) Are you self employed - No
Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week - 90 Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Design
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity- Throughout the
year  TRAINING
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom - No
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - In which of the following areas would you want to be trained- Design Innovation
November.december,january Do you know how to use Computer- No
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft- No
Are you a member of any of the following organisations- None 
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices- No PRICING

INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS What factors decide the pricing of your products- Labor Cost 
Current monthly income of the artisan- 16k Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing- Yes
Do you have a saving account in the- No Where do you procure raw material from- Nearby Markets 
ASSETS Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials- No
Dwelling Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials- No
Own House
Type of House MARKETING
Pucca  How do you sell your products- Exports
If own house, have you- Inherited  Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products- No
In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following:
TV
MEDICAL FACILITY
Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice-
Weak eyes
Do you have a health/ life insurance policy- Yes

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 Artisan’s Name- Gulam Mohammed

Artisan’s Age- 48 DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY

Artisan’s Sex: Male Are you working on- Traditional Design
Education level of artisan- 10th Who gives the design- Old Patterns 
Languages known- Hindi,gujarati Have you explored new raw materials other than traditional- No 
Size of the family unit – Male 2,female 1,child 1 Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to
Which craft are you associated with -Aari, Zardozi the handicraft only- Master craftsmen
For how many years the craft has been practiced by family- 20yrs Are you self employed - No 
Family members participating in craft - yes(Son) Which all do you think would help to strengthen the growth- Design 
Average number of hours devoted to the craft per week – 70hrs
No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: -  Throughout TRAINING
the year  Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills- No
Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts/ handloom- No  Do you need further training- No 
Any month /months in the year that is high in demand for craft - Festivals In which of the following areas would you want to be trained- Marketing
Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft- No Do you know how to use Computer- Yes 
Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices-  No Do you use Internet- Yes
Give reasons for your choice- less wage If yes, what do you use it for- Both business and personal
Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet-Yes,explored more designs
INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS
Current monthly income of the artisan- 20k – 24k PRICING
Do you have a saving account in the - Yes What factors decides the pricing of your products- Raw Materials, Labour Cost
Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing- Yes
ASSETS Where do you procure raw material from- Local Market 
Dwelling Do you have any problem in buying of raw materials- No
Own House 
Type of House- Pucca
If own house, have you- Inherited  MARKETING
In the last two years, have you purchased/changed or added any of the following- How do you sell your products- Exports, Local Markets 
Two-wheeler  Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products- No

MEDICAL FACILITY
Are there any occupational health hazard/diseases, linked with your craft practice-
No

Do you have health/ life insurance policy- Yes

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M A R K E T A N D
M A R K E T I N G
C H A N N E L S
Image from - www.umanghutheesing.com
 MARKET AND MARKETING CHANNELS

The main market for Aari Zardozi is in Gujarat, Rajasthan and Lucknow. But with time people living abroad buy lenhengas and sherwanis
from India which are specifically done in Zardozi. There are people from Royal families living in Gujarat and Rajasthan who continue to
wear only Aari Zardozi and Marodi work. Most of the sale happens during the festive seasons of Navratri and Diwali and in the wedding
season.

The community that truly appreciates this craft and can afford it is small as the products are expensive. These are people who value the
art and can take utmost care of the products and maintain them for years and years.

With time trading of the craft to other parts of the country has increased. Gujarati designer Umang Hathee Singh showcased their
collection in Sri Lanka. He has also collaborated with Holland & Holland, the official outfitters of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles,
and has showcased at Buckingham  Palace for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations. Umang Singh has also done the panels for
the Roosevelt House in the United States. He is the only designer to have shown over 300 of his creations at renowned international
museums and has the honour to create regal costumes for several Royal families in India and across the world. With people like Umang
Singh the market for Aari Zardozi and Marodi work is not only limited to the Royals and the upper class of India but has also spread
across other countries.

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I S S U E S A N D
C H A L L E N G E S
 STRENGTHS

Aari Zardozi is a craft of extreme patience, intricacy and skillful artisanship. The raw materials and tools which are used in the process
are very easily available in the local markets and hence are easy to procure. Designers like Umang Hathee Singh are taking this craft to
other countries which is beneficial for the growth of the craft on a global level. Sabyasachi, Tarun Tahiliani, Ritu Kumar and many other
Indian fashion designers heavily use this embroidery in the garments they design. The Gujarat Government as well as the Indian
Government support the craft immensely. When Umang Singh went abroad with his collection, it was funded by the Indian
Government. PM Narendra Modi gifted Danish Queen Margrethe a tablecloth, completely handcrafted with Aari Zardozi embroidery to
represent Gujarat’s rich culture and art. Aari Zardozi embroidery is also adopted in costumes used in Bollywood movies. In the songs
“Chogada” from Loveyatri and “Ghoomar” from Padmavat, costumes worn by the main actors have a heavy amount of Aari Zardozi and
Marodi work on them. This craft is slowly being brought into contemporary designs and garments specifically by designers who
specialise in bridal wear and haute couture. There are different types of embroidery styles that exist in Gujarat and other states of India
but Aari Zardozi continues to be the most gaudy and extravagant embroidery style. Hence it can’t be replaced especially in the bridal
wear market.

82
 WEAKNESSES

This craft, as we have discussed earlier, is restricted to people who are economically very strong. The larger part of the market can't
afford the products with Zardozi and Marodi embroidery. Artisans are trying to make it available to more people by putting the
embroidery on other products like potlis, bags, purses, clutches, juttis etc. However it cannot be adopted in ready to wear garments
and accessories as Aari Zardozi and Marodi embroidery requires a lot of maintenance and special care while washing. With time, the
patience level of people is reducing therefore the millenials and the GenZ don't prefer wearing garments which require constant care
and maintenance. 
Artisans in this craft are reducing day by day especially in Marodi work. The newer generation does not prefer to work in the craft sector
and go into nine to five corporate jobs. The current artisans who specialise in this type of embroidery do not really push their children to
pursue the craft because of its uncertain nature. Artisans have a lot of work opportunities in the months of July to November. However
at a certain time of the year they have no work especially during the monsoon season which inturn affects their income. Artisans were
also heavily impacted during COVID when they didn’t have any kind of work at all and had to stay in their homes.

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 OPPORTUNITIES

Aari Zardozi and Marodi work can easily be used in contemporary garments and designs. Designers who already use this type of
embroidery in their designs should promote the craft in a better way and give recognition to the artisans who work on it. There is a lot
of opportunity for the craft to be used in accessories and streetwear. Artisans can follow trends and move from traditional designs to
modern designs.

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 THREATS

Aari Zardozi can be easily replaced by machine embroidery. It is less time consuming and mass production can be done in a limited
period of time. But increased use of machines would take away the bread and butter of artisans hence leaving them jobless. Artisans
are also very rigid and do not want to shift towards newer modern designs from the traditional ones.

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 REFERENCE

Textiles and Dress of Gujarat(2011), Eiluned Edwards

Indian Embroider(1999), Rosemary Crill
D’source design resource on aari zardozi - Ahmedabad, Gujarat (2017) D’Source. 
Of glitter & shine (2011) Gaatha.com. Gaatha - A Tale of Crafts. 
Razio, A. (2014) Incredible India!: Racconti Di Viaggio E Non Solo Di Una Straordinaria Esperienza
Vissuta in Un Incredibile Paese. “Incredible India!” North Charleston, SC: Createspace Independent
Publishing Platform.

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