01

FASHION
TailITEMS
ored & Occasion
~NIRVANA BARKAKOTY

01
02

CHOLI

FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

Originated in the Indian subcontinent, a choli is a
woman's upper garment often cropped to expose the
midriff. The choli evolved from the ancient
stanapatta, also known as kurpsika or kanchuki,
which was one of the forms of three-piece attire worn
by women during the ancient period.
 CHOLI
a woman's upper garment 03

ABOUT

A choli, Is a bodice- like garment or blouse that is commonly short leaving the midriff bear, and worn alongside with a saree in the Indian
subcontinent. It is also a part of the Indian subcontinent costume known as ghagra choli. A typical traditional choli is body fitted and
supports the bust, and tied at the back with strings. The earliest example of an upper garment was observed during the Vedic period,
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

wherein women wore breast bands, a strip of fabric that enveloped the breasts and was knotted at the back, known by different names like
pratidhi, stanamshuka, stanottariya, uttarasanga.

The evolution of the choli begin from the ancient stanapatta also called kurpsika or kanchuki. It was one of the 3 piece attire forms worn
by women during the ancient period. This consisted of the lower garment; antriya, the veil, uttariya worn over the shoulder or head; and
the stanapatta, a chestband, which is mentioned in Sanskrit and Buddhist literature during the 6th century BC. The Mughal paintings of
the 16th century provide ample evidence with regards to the women's backless choli, fastened at the back with tie-cords. the choli is defined
as a broad fabric strip, wrapped from the back and knotted at the center front, just beneath the breasts.
 CHOLI
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

a woman's upper garment 04

TEXTILE, BODICE (CHOLI), COTTON,

LAHORE, CA. 1855
Bodice (choli), cotton, dark red with appliquéd green
cotton bands down the front and cuffs, and red cotton
BODICE (CHOLI), COTTON, GREEN WITH
ties.
PINK BANDS AND EDGING TO SLEEVES
AND TIES. LAHORE, CA. 1855-1879
Bodice (choli), cotton, green with pink bands and edging
to sleeves and ties.

CHOLI OF SILK EMBROIDERED WITH

WOMAN'S BODICE (CHOLI), WOVEN SILK AND
COLOURED SILKS, KUTCH, 19TH CENTURY
SILVER-GILT-WRAPPED THREAD, GUJARAT, CA.
Choli of silk embroidered with colored silks and set with 1867
mirrors.
Woven silk brocaded with gold-wrapped thread
 CHOLI
a woman's upper garment 05
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

WOMEN IN CHOLI AND ANTARIYA CE 320

GUPTA EMPIRE.

DANCING GIRL IN KURTA/SALWAR-

LIKE CHOLI GUPTA EMPIRE.

KALPASUTRA MANUSCRIPT C. 1375–1400.

EXAMPLE OF EARLY FORM OF FULL SLEEVE
CHOLI.
WOMEN IN CHOLI CE 320 GUPTA EMPIRE.
THE EARLY FORM OF CHOLI TIED AT THE
BACK WITH THE FRONT COVERING.
 CHOLI
a woman's upper garment 06
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

WOMAN IN GAGRA CHOLI

BENGALI GIRL IN FULL SLEEVE CHOLI

(1880)

WOMAN IN SINDHI CHOLI 1845

TAMIL GIRL IN CHOLI
ANALYSIS front

FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

EMBROIDERED WITH RED AND
SATIN EMBROIDERED WITH INSET WITH MIRROR-GLASS DARK BLUE SILK THREADS
LABEL SILK THREADS (SHISHADAR) AND COTTON

Bodice (Choli) of satin embroidered with silk HAS NO ARMHOLE SHORT TUBULAR SLEEVES
AMBER-COLOURED
threads, Kutch, 19th century SATIN FABRIC

SLEEVES ARE ATTACHED

DIRECTLY TO THE NECKLINE.

COLLECTION
INSERTED PANEL OF PLAIN BROWN
Victoria & Albert Museum collection : South & South East COTTON ON THE UNDER ARM
Asia Collection
SCALE PATTERN DEFINED IN
BLUE
SIX GLASS DISCS
OUTLINED IN RED

A CENTRAL DISC
OUTLINED IN BLUE
DIMENSIONS

TYING AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM Length: 13in

RECORD URL Width: 29in
WITH STRINGS AT THE BACK
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453643/bodice-unknown/
07
 ANALYSIS back
INSET WITH MIRROR-GLASS
(SHISHADAR) AND COTTON

AMBER-COLOURED OPEN DOWN THE BACK

A CENTRAL DISC OUTLINED
IN BLUE SHORT TUBULAR SLEEVES
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

THE EDGED OF THE CHOLI ARE

VERY WELL FINISHED WITH PIPING. SLEEVES ARE ATTACHED
DIRECTLY TO THE NECKLINE.

INSERTED PANEL OF PLAIN BROWN

COTTON ON THE UNDER ARM EMBROIDERED WITH RED AND
DARK BLUE SILK THREADS

SCALE PATTERN DEFINED IN

SIX GLASS DISCS BLUE
OUTLINED IN RED

THE GARMENT IS NOT LINED

WITH ANOTHER FABRIC

TYING AT THE TOP AND

BOTTOM WITH STRINGS
08
 CHOLI
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION
9

the modern-day adaptation

Initially, Mughal women wore a three-piece garment that represented their Persian heritage, which included peshwaj, pajama, and
patka or dupatta. This combination now resembles a lot to modern kurta-churidar. Women wore Lehengas with different fabrics and
patterns that were more fitting to their cultural background. The higher class women wore lehenga-Choli that were made from royal
fabrics. In contrast, the lower classes wore materials like Cotton or Khadi. It was not until the 1990s that Lehenga, as a fashionable
attire came back in vogue. The depiction of lehenga choli in Bollywood films mesmerized the audiences with vibrant colours and
intricate embroidery. After its mainstreaming in Bollywood movies, it made an appearance on Indian Fashion Week’s runaway.
Lehengas went from traditional styles to experimental styles like Straight Lehengas, A-line Lehengas, Panelled Lehengas, Mermaid
or Fish Tail Lehengas, and much more. Ghagra is another form of Lehenga Choli. The difference between them is that the Ghagra
has lots of creases, whereas the Lehenga fits more to the body comparatively. This style is majorly evident in Rajasthan and
Gujurat, where they also include mirror-work, crystals, beads and enhance it with more vibrant embroidery designs. Lacha is
another adaptation of choli. It is a long blouse that goes up to the length of the knees, but the skirt is the same as of Lehenga Choli.
The only variation in Lacha is the blouse. Designers seem to play around with the basic neckline and give new variations with a
fashion touch to change a simple look with blouse necklines. For example, A boat neck is a wide neckline that runs from one shoulder
point to the other in a slight round to straight curve, front, and back. Halter-neck style is a style that holds up the front with straps
at the back of the neck tied up. It could be a single strap or more to hold up the blouse giving comfort without an armhole section.
The backside has a simple lower back covering in a thick or thin strap horizontal look. Off-shoulder necklines which may be one
shoulder or one sleeve pattern. The Keyhole blouse is also a variation with a central hollow portion at the back. It may be a simple
slit at the centerline. The split is usually, secured at its top with a hook and eye or loop and button. Widely in the drop shape is more
popular, and other shapes of oval, round, or diamond, but now designers brought in new fashion cuts as well modifying the shape
still keeping the hollowness a creative blouse neckline. Also a plunging neckline i.e. a low-cut neckline, is a popular choice for most
designers. Lehenga Choli has got a contemporary touch right from the way of tailoring to its embroidery styles. Using urban motifs
and techniques, the Lehenga Cholis available today are surely minimalistic and aesthetic still with hints of cultural tradition hidden
within them.
 02
10
PHULKARI
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

08

HISTORIC GARMENT 2- MAO JACKET

Phulkari is a craft associated with the heritage of
Punjab. It comes from the words 'phul' and 'kari'
that mean flower work. But the designs include
not only flowers but also cover motifs and
geometrical shapes
 PHULKARI
folk embroidery
11

ABOUT

Phulkari is the folk embroidery of Punjab, India. Phulkari means floral work and these designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. The
traditional varieties of Phulkaris are large peices of cloth and include Chope, Tilpatr, Neelak and Bagh. The Bagh is given separate categorization from the other varieties.
The
other varieties of a Phulkari, parts of the cloth is visible, whereas in a Bagh, the embroidery covers the entire garment so that the base cloth is not visible. In contemporary
modern designs, simple and thinly embroidered dupattas (long scarf), odhinis (oversized long scarf), and shawls, made for everyday use, are referred to as Phulkaris,
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

whereas clothing items that cover the whole body, made for special occasions such as weddings are called Baghs (large garden). The craft of Phulkari has undergone
changes over the centuries.

There are diverse theories about the origin of Phulkari. One of the theories suggest that this embroidery was prevalent in different regions of the country as far back as the
7th century CE but was limited to Punjab. Motifs similar to the ones found in Phulkari are also found in Kashida of Bihar and some of the embroideries of Rajasthan.
Another belief is that there is a style of embroidery that came from Iran where it was called Gulkari, also meaning floral work. However,in 1960, Pal’s notes that the styles
of Phulkari are distinct to Gulkari work. There is also reference to Phulkari in ancient texts, folk legends, and mostly in the literature of Punjab. In Harishcharitra, the
biography of the Emperor Harshavardhana (590-647 CE), the last ruler of great ancient Indian Vardhana empire, the seventh-century chronicler Bana wrote, "Some
people were embroidering flowers and leaves on the cloth from the reverse side," which is a technical description of Phulkari embroidery. Although the earliest reference of
the word Phulkari is in Punjabi literature in the 18th century Waris Shah's version of Heer Ranjha (a legendary Punjabi tragic romance) which potrays the wedding
trousseau of the female protagonist Heer and lists various clothing items including Phulkari embroidery. The first elaboreate English publication on Phulkari was by Flora
Annie Steel in 1880 where she describes the various styles and exhibited the varieties in picture form. In its present form, Phulkari embroidery has been popular since the
15th century. Phulkari work is distinctive and uniquely Punjabi, no matter its origin. ( Pal,1960)
 FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION
12

PHULKARI
ABOUT
folk embroidery
In Punjab, it is believed that the birth of girl child in the family is auspicious. The mother and grandmothers would start embroidering Phulkari
dupattas upon the birth of a baby girl because it is believed that she would be the creator for future generations. Originally Phulkari was done
with real flowers. Silk and Mulmul (soft cotton muslin) fabrics were used because of its purity and longevity. Various coarse structured fabrics
such as khaddar, Dasuti, and Khaddar casement were used for embroidery work, including Phulkari. The yarns of the base fabric were counted to
make the motifs. The fabric is generally dyed after doing the embroidery with a preparation that the silk threads do not dye so that the warps and
wefts on the lighter colours are clearly visible. Darning stitch is the most commonly used stitch in Phulkari. Other stitches used are blanket stitch,
herringbone, holbein and buttonhole stitch. Traditional Phulkaris used a special type of silk floss thread called Pat. A variation in the type of
phulkari can be seen between western and eastern Punjab. In western Punjab , the quality of the fabric was much finer, the designs were
geometrical and never figurative. Whereas on the other hand , in the east region of Punjab, the colours used are more vibrant and bold, the pallus
were heavily embroidered with motifs that drew inspiration from everyday life
 PHULKARI
folk embroidery 13
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

PHULKARI (SHAWL) OF EMBROIDERED

COTTON WITH COLOURED FLOSS SILKS,
NORTH-WEST PANJAB, 19TH CENTURY

TEXTILE FRAGMENTS OF PHULKARI

EMBROIDERED COTTON WITH FLOSS SILKS,
PANJAB, LATE 19TH CENTURY-EARLY 20TH
CENTURY
PHULKARI/BAGH TEXTILE, EARLY PHULKARI/BAGH, EARLY 20TH CENTURY,
20TH CENTURY WEST PUNJAB
ANALYSIS

FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

TERRACOTTA-COLOURED

COTTON FABRIC

EMBROIDERED WITH WHITE, YELLOW,

GREEN AND PINK FLOSS SILKS
LABEL
Textile, phulkari, red cotton embroidered with
floss silks, Amritsar, ca. 1881-1882
WOVEN COTTON CLOTH

ABSTRACTED FLORAL MOTIF IN

WHITE, YELLOW AND GREEN
DIMENSIONS

Length: 265cm
Width: 140cm
ABSTRACTED LEAF MOTIF IN WHITE,
YELLOW AND GREEN

COLLECTION
Victoria & Albert Museum collection : South & South East
UNTWISTED SOFT FLOSS SILK (HEER, PAT) IS
Asia Collection USED, MOSTLY YELLOW AND WHITE, WHICH
REFLECTS THE LIGHT, LENDING A LUSTROUS
APPEARANCE TO THE FINISHED PIECE

PATTERNS DONE IN SURFACE

DARNING STITCH

DOUBLE RUNNING STITCH AND

RECORD URL THE HEMS HAVE DEEPER
VARIETY OF ADDITIONAL STITCH
EMBROIDERED LEAF DESIGN TYPES ADDED
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O453744/textile-unknown/
14
ANALYSIS

FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

ILLUSTRATION
Abstracted leaf motif in white, yellow and green
with borders.

ILLUSTRATION
Abstracted floral motif in white, yellow and green
15
 PHULKARI
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION
16

the modern day adaptation

Phulkari work is a trending global wear option. Worldwide enthusiasm to indulge in Indian culture,
Phulkari has easily slipped into the Western countries. Since Phulkari is a form of embroidery that can
be implimented on almost any fabric, seasonal variations are not a limitation for its suitability. Owing
to its wearability all around the year, the style rates quite high on the global wearability factor.
Depending on the occasion the Phulkari can be customized for occasional or regular dressing. Phulkari
Odinis/Dupattas can be teamed with plain kurti-patiala or a cotton top worn over rugged denim for a
contemporary look.In recent times, Phulkari work has spread its fabric reach from Odinis to full-length
suits and is often done by machines.

Today, through various budding brands, Phulkari is back on the shelves and is making a style
statement. Harinder Singh, Founder of the popular brand ‘1469’, Singh has been instrumental in pulling
Phulkari out of Punjab and presenting it on a national platform. Traditional dupattas have made way
for stoles, bags, potlis, kites, cushions and more. Also Delhi-based entrepreneur Pavit Sidhu Puri’s brand
Desi Fusion is all about bringing Phulkari “into the moment”. Puri’s aim is to popularise Phulkari and
develop products for present day usage. Puri started her brand along with her husband Gurpreet some
years back. Their collection has shoulder bags, box clutches, brocade clutches, shagan (auspicious)
envelopes, wine bottle covers, iPad sleeves incooperating embroidered phulkari. Manish Malhotra did a
collection uniquely with phulkari embroidery. The designer had emphasised that the colour-blocked
churidars paired with rhomboid patterned scarves collection was built on a base of phulkari embroidery.
 03
17

KURTA 08

ICONIC GARMENT 1- THE CHANEL SUIT

It is a stitched tunic that has a frontal opening
and slits on the side. The kurta is traditionally
made of cotton or silk.
 KURTA
ABOUT
a stitched tunic 18

A kurta is a stitched tunic like shirt that has a one frontal opening and slits on the sides. Back in 1000-800 BC, the earliest
relics indicating the widespread of the art of stitching was during the Indus valley civilization after northwest and northern
Indian subcontinent. During that time the art of stitching was mostly related to needles and buttons. Taken the mehrargh
settlements into consideration during the Harappan culture, stitching was well known to the Indian population from the time
span around 6th to 3rd millennium BC. There is accurately mentioned facts that the harappans wore unstitched drape clothes
such as a knee length skirt or diagonal draped Saree, as well stitched clothings like sleeveless or half sleeve kurtas. The atharva
ved i.e early 3rd millennium BC stated presence of vavri, An upper garment along with uttariya, a shawl- like garb for the
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

torso.

Ancient Indian staged upper body garments could be roughly classified into four types:

~The varbana : it is a knee length garment coma either half or full sleeved with side slits. This is known as the ancient
precursor of the kurta.
~The kurti :it is a short shirt of upper thigh lengthed or hip lengthed with no side slits.
~The choli :it is a stitched blouse worn above a saree. It was widely used in South India.
~The achkan or angarkha :It is a flowing, long, ankle lenght, full sleeved court like robes
with no side slits. These gradually evolved to be anarkali kurtas.
 KURTA
a stitched tunic 29

~THE STATUE OF MOTHER GODDESS

FROM MATHURA OF SECOND CENTURY
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

BC. THE UNCANNY RESEMBLANCE TO

THE HARAPPAN MOTHER GODDESS
WHICH WERE AT LEAST 2000 YEARS
OLDER PROVES THAT THE INDUS
VALLEY CIVILIZATION CULTURE WAS
SAME AS THE VEDIC CULTURE OF THE
INDIAN SUBCONTINENT INDICATING
THROUGH ITS IDENTICAL ART FORM
BEING PRACTICED IN 2 MILLENNIA
LATER.

~THE GUPTA ERA SCULPTURE SHOWS

A LADY WEARING A SIDE SLIT
VARBANA.
~THE ANCIENT STATUE FROM THE 3RD
CENTURY BC IN UDAYGIRI AND
KHANDAGIRI CAVES, ODISHA
DISPLAYS THE STATUE WEARING A
LONG ,ROBE LIKE GARMENT WHICH IS
ANGARKHA OR THE ACHKAN.
 KURTA
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

20

a stitched tunic
ABOUT
A traditional kurta consists a rectangular fabric piece with few gusset inserts, and is cut to leave no waste fabric. It is
usually a simple cut, although decorative elaboration could be made. Traditionally ,the sleeves fall straight to the waist
and do not narrow. The sleeves are not cuffed , just hemmed and decorated. The front and the back pieces of a simple
kurta is also rectangular. The side seams are left open 6 to 12 inches above to hem , referred to as the chak . This gives the
garment some ease for movement. A traditional kurta usually has openings in the front. The front opening is a hemmed
slit in the fabric tied or buttoned at the top. However some styles such as buttons at the shoulder seam is common too.
Some kurtas have plackets rather than slits. The opening is positioned on the centre of the chest. A traditional kurta
doesn’t have a collar but modern variants show stand up collars known as the mandarin collars. Some examples of this
sort are seen on achkans, sherwanis and Nehru jackets. Kurtas worn in the summer months are made of thin cotton or
silk fabrics. A very common fabric is linen or linen cotton mix which is both idle for summers and winters. Kurtas worn
on formal occasions picture decorative metal buttons.
 KURTA
a stitched tunic 21
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

A DOM MAN KUMAR EAST BENGAL

(BANGLADESH),1860 .

PUNJABI WOMAN IN SHORT KURTA 1874

MUSLIM SCHOLAR, EAST BENGAL
(BANGLADESH),1860 .
PAHARI WOMEN IN KASHMIR, 1890
ANALYSIS

FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

APPLIQUÉ WORK
WHITE MUSLIN
OPEN-WORK (JALI WORK)
AROUND THE ARMHOLES.

LABEL
WOVEN SLEEVES ARE NOT CUFFED, JUST
Textile, man's shirt (kurta), appliqué muslin, HEMMED AND DECORATED.

Lucknow, early 20th century

LIGHT, SEMI-TRANSPARENT FABRIC

IN A MATCHING THREAD.[CIT
COTTON

COLLECTION APPLIQUÉ WORK

Victoria & Albert Museum collection : South & South East

Asia Collection
SLIT SIDE SEAMS

RECTANGULAR PIECE
KURTA

FALLING JUST
ABOVE THE KNEE APPLIQUÉ WORK
DIMENSIONS
Length: 106cm
FINISHED HEM Maximum with arms outstretched width:
RECORD URL 164cm
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O438358/kurta-unknown/
22
 KURTA
the modern day adaptation
With exceptional creativity and advancement in techniques in the Indian fashion industry, the
23

kurta has seen different faces. In recent times, one can opt for kurtis with modern art designs
that are different than the usual traditional ones. Initially, a kurti was only worn over an
Indian trouser form called ‘Pajama’, but these days the younger generation often teams the
kurta or kurti with jeans and leggings. Collars, stone work, zari work, and tie dye are some of
the most common designs used for kurtas. The Nawabs of Lucknow popularized the
embroidered Chikan Kurtas, which are in high demand in foreign countries as well.
Overlapping panels are the hallmark of the traditional Lucknowi Kurta. The Lucknowi Chikan
Kurtas are also stitched in straight plain designs and form a part of casual clothing. Initially,
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

the Hyderabadi Kurtas were made in white cloth but now coloured clothes are extensively used
to stitch them. They are mostly worn on casual occasions. The straight cut Kurta, also known
as the Punjabi Kurta, is a straight cut Kurta whose hemline reaches the knees and has gusset
inserts. These Kurtas are classified into three types depending on the embroidery,

~Muktsari Kurta from the province of Muktsar in Punjab,

~Phulkari Kurtas , the popular Phulkari embroidered
~Bandhani Kurta, the Kurta with bandhani patterns

The Sherwani Kurtas with rich embroidery and deep colours are preferred for weddings and
special occasions. They have sharp immaculately stitched shoulders with flares on the sides
and are quite fancy with intricate zari work . The traditional Kurtas do not have any collar
and their openings are usually centered on the chest. However, the modern Kurtas have
undergone a major transformation and have stand up collars such as the Nehru collar.The
Sherwani Kurtas mainly have Mandarin collars and go well with churidar pajamas.
24

FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

04
DHOTI

It is a lower garment forming part of the ethnic

costume for men in the Indian subcontinent.
The dhoti is touted as the male counterpart of
the sari worn by females to religious and secular
ceremonies (functions).
 DHOTI
ABOUT
ethnic costume for men 25

A dhoti, lower garment forming part of the national or ethnic costume for men in the Indian subcontinent. It is also known as panche, dhuti, mardani,
chaadra, dhotar or panchey around the subcontinent. It is a type of sarong, when tied outwardly resembles 'loose trousers'. The dhoti is fashioned out
of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 4.5 metres (15 ft) long, which is wrapped around the waist and the legs and knotted either in
the front or the back. Dhotis usually are of plain or solid colours. Silk dhotis along with embroidered borders are considered to be formal wear. The
evolution of dhoti began from the ancient antriya which was passed around the legs, tucked at the back and covered the legs loosely, then folded into
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

long pleats at front of the legs, the similar way in which it is worn today as a formal dhoti. Unlike formal dhoti, informal dhoti is wraped around both
legs firmly and the back side of dhoti is pulled to the front and tucked at the waist, before tucking the two loose ends at back, creating firmly fitted
trouser-like dhoti that wraps around both legs.

Types:
The pancha is worn by Jain orthodox men usually when they visit the temple for prayer; as unstitched clothing is believed to be "less permeable to
pollution"and therefore more appropriate for religious rituals and prayer. They also wear a shorter unstitched, loose cloth on top of the pancha, Hare
Krishna, promotes Western adherents to wear a saffron or white Pancha folded in a traditional style. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi was known for wearing
a white silk dhoti. In India, there's a distinction between the lungi and the dhoti, as lungi is a smaller garment often worn by people at their home as it
is more casual and comfortable than dhoti. During the Indian independence, weaving of dhohi had been a significance of the self- reliance movement.
The Bengali style of wearing a dhoti was making pleats in their dhoti. In south India, the dhoti wearers add the angavastram to their attire, which is
an extra piece of unstitched cloth kept on the shoulders. For convenience purpose, many south Indian men fold their dhoti in half and tuck it at the
waist so that it reaches only till the knees. In certain Indian communities in Rajasthan, wearing the dhoti-kurta is mandatory.
 DHOTI
ethnic costume for men 26
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

FEMALE DANCER DRESSED AS KRISHNA IN

YELLOW DHOTI.

A CHAKRAVATI WEARS A PANCHA IN AN ANCIENT

STYLE. FIRST CENTURY BCE/CE. AMARAVATHI
VILLAGE, GUNTUR DISTRICT(MUSEE GUIMET). THE DIDARGANJ YAKSHI DEPICTING THE
DHOTI WRAP.
 FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION
ANALYSIS
WHITE COTTON FIELD

END BORDERS WITH NARROW HORIZONTAL

BANDS OF NARROW COTTON.
LABEL
Man's wrapped garment (dhoti), white cotton
with silk borders, Varanasi, Uttar Padesh, ca. 1855

WOVEN COTTON CLOTH

LENGTH: 480CM

DIMENSIONS

Length: 480cm (approx.)

Width: 111cm
WIDTH: 111CM

COLLECTION STRIPES IN RED

Victoria & Albert Museum collection : South & South East

Asia Collection

FLORAL MOTIFS

SIDE BORDERS OF RED AND GREEN SILK

IN STRIPED AND FLORAL DESIGN,
RECORD URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O455173/dhoti-unknown/
27
 ANALYSIS 28
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

ILLUSTRATION
side borders of red and green silk in striped and floral design,

ILLUSTRATION
texture of a dhoti
 DHOTI 29

the modern day adaptation

Over the period of time, people in India have been influenced by the western wear and
traditions. A lot of western culture has been absorbed by the people of India. This has made
traditionally worn dhoti a garment that is followed mostly at home. People no longer wear it
to the office or parties. It has become more like a traditional wear.
FASHION ITEMS - TAILORED & OCCASION

That being said, one cannot ignore the fact that it has evolved in its styling as well. People
across India still believe that dhoti, when folded to knee length, shows disrespect.
Also, the various colors in which they are now available are also because of global
influence. A lot of innovation has passed the world of dhoti. Dhoti is still dominant in various
circles of society, however, several improvisations and westernization has given the world
dhoti pants’ that have the structure of dhoti combined with western pants. It has now been
modernized from its usual unstitched nature to look more like trousers. It is a popular
innovation as it makes dhoti completely unisex in nature. This innovation has become a solid
hit with the people of India, and in particular the younger generation. The most common
material used for dhoti pant design is cotton, or Tussar, or silk. They also come in the ready-
made form with designs and artworks on them and also come in sizes for children. Vibrant
colours and patterns add to the prestige of the dhoti. The evolution of this elegant piece of
clothing has made it difficult to lose sight and touch of the rich tradition and heritage of
India.
REFERENCING

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